UNDERSTANDING OF APPAREL

QUALITY
Assignment- 1

TOPIC: Criticality of defects and defect exploration of

varied trims used in garments

Submitted To: Prof. B. Banerjee

Submitted By: Ankita Kumari (BFT/18/244)
Shagun Sinha (BFT/18/172)
Tanya Choudhary (BFT/18/899)
 Garment defects
Any abnormality in the Garment that hinders its acceptability by the consumer is
called Garment defect. These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these
are caused by the sewing lines.
Garment defects can be separated into three
categories:

1. Fabric defects:
These are defects that are found in the fabric mostly these are not caused by
the sewing lines.

2. Workmanship and handling defects:

These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would
include both the cutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be
referred to maintain perfect workmanship.

3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:

These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels,
sewing thread, screen print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining,
button and any kind of trims.
 Fabric defects and workmanship & handling
defects

Seam Puckering: refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after
laundering causing an unacceptable seam.

Cause: This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing
improper thread tension, wrong sewing thread selection dimensional instability of the plies
of fabric etc.

Remedies:
1. Machine feed mechanism must be better quality.
2. Sewing thread must be selected properly.
3. Thread tension must be kept in limit.
Wavy/staggered stitching: stitches are not straight.

Cause: It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces, faulty feed mechanism, needle
deflection or wrong needle etc.

Remedies:
1. Needle to be changed.

2. Needle size and thread size should be changed.

3. Feed mechanism to be changed.

Open seam or broken seam: Portion of the garment that has not been covered
by sewing thread.

Cause: This happens due to improper handling of the parts of

garments, improper setting and timing between needle and

looper or hook etc.

Remedies:
1. Proper handling of the parts of garments.
2. Proper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook.
Broken Stitch: Non-continuous sewing thread.

Cause: It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage.

Remedies:
1. Proper machine usage.
2. Proper trimming.
Uncut/ loose thread: Extra thread or loose thread on seam line.

Cause: It appears due to improper trimming or finishing.

Remedy:
1. Garments finishing should be checked properly.
2. UBT/thread trimmer should be used.
3. Operator training.
Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam.

Cause: It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or machine usage.

Remedies:
1. Examine the setting and timing between needle and hook or looped.
2. Placing of needle properly.
3. The tension of thread should be adjusted.
4. Needle size & thread size must be adjusted.
5. The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately.
Holes: Broken holes in the fabric where you are able to see through the fabric to the
other side.

Cause: Holes can come from fabric or it could be caused by the production side, either
by improper trimming or broken needle puncturing the fabric.

Remedy: Better inspection of fabric and cut piece. Ensure that fabric and cut pieces that
are not up to standard are not put into line and production is wasted. Replace not standard
cut pieces with usable ones before input.
Seams not aligned at crossing of seams/mismatch seam: Seams
are not lined up at intersection of seams.

Cause: Defects generally come about either from improper handling of the cut piece.

Remedy: When these defects starts to appear at close to 2% or 5 pieces, the production
must be informed and the operator must be trained in the proper usage of the machine.
Seam Grin: a gap is revealed between the two pieces of fabric revealing the thread.

Cause: When two pieces of fabric are pulled at right angles to the seam, a gap is
revealed between the two pieces of fabric revealing the thread in this gap’

Remedies:
1. Increase stitching tensions.
2. Use a higher stitch rating.
Seam Slippage: The fabric on either side of the seam distorts.

Cause: Happens mainly in this type of fabric:

1. Fabrics with low no. of warp & weft yarns.
2. The fabric on either side of the seam distorts as the fabric yarns slide away resulting
in a permanent gap.

Remedies:
1. Increase seam allowance.
2. Use a higher stitch density.
3. opt for a lapped fell seam.
Fraying: Fibers becomes loose and start to come apart.

Cause: If a piece of cloth frays or is frayed, the fibers in it become loose and start to
come apart.

Remedies:
1. Use proper adjustment between needle & looper.
2. Stitch should not bend too narrow.
3. Tension on needle not too loose.
4. Operator must handle the fabric properly.
5. Knives should not blunt.
6. Knives correctly set.
7. Right choice of thread for fabric.
Puckering: Where the seam does not lay flat and smooth along the stitch line.

Remedies:
1. Seam on straight grain/woof.
2. Fabric must be held properly.
3. Use minimum thread tension.
4. Needle needs replacing.
5. Use correct thread for needle.
6. Correct thread for bobbin & needle.
7. Ensure minimum pressure on foot.
8. Use right stitch length.
9. Accurate seam class choice for material.
Differential feed needs to be reduced.
Pilling: Pilling is a common fabric defect occurring on knitted and woven fabrics

Cause: Pilling in garment appears during wearing as well as washing, due to the rubbing
action. Pills can form for any staple fiber, whether synthetic or natural, including cotton and
wool, but the problem is more prominent in polyester fibers. Factors that are responsible
for pilling include fiber length and denier, low twist, hairy and bulky yarns, single yarn, type
of weave, and type of finish.

Remedies: Pilling can be controlled by various methods

1. Proper selection of fiber.
2. Prevention of abrasion during batch processing.
3. Shearing and cropping with brushing to eliminate surface fibers and protruding fibers.
4. It is not possible to eliminate pilling completely due to various requirements demanded
by consumers such as softness, suppleness, and comfort. However, it can be effectively
controlled by taking preventive as well as curative measures.
Sagging or Rolling: Pockets: Where the pocket does not lay flat and rolls over after
laundering.

Remedies:
1. Make sure the sewing operators are not holding back excessively when setting the
front pocket.
2. Make sure the hem is formed properly and that excessive fabric is not being put into the
folder that will cause the hem to roll over.
3. Check to make sure pocket is cut properly and that pocket curve is not too deep.
4. Use a reinforcement tape on the inside of the pocket that may help prevent the front
panel from stretching along the bias where the front pocket is set.
5. The type and weight of denim, along with the fabric construction, may contribute to
this problem.
Ropy Hem: is where hem is not lying flat and is skewed in appearance.

Remedies:
1. Usually caused by poor operator handling.
2. Instruct the sewing operator to make sure they get the hem started correctly in the
folder before they start sewing.
3. Make sure they don't hold back excessively as the seam is being sewn.
4. Use minimum roller or presser foot pressure.
 Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:

These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread,
screen print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims

Defects are given below:

1. Unraveling Buttons.
2. Broken button and zipper tape.
3. Faulty zippers.
4. Print distortion due to hanging thread
5. Unstitched buttonhole.
6. Improper alignment of the labels.
7. Wavy zipper.
8. Oil Mark.
Unraveling Buttons: Some excess thread is visible on the top side of the button.

Remedies:
1. Use best quality sewing thread.
2. Should use lock stitch machine for attaching button.
Wavy Zipper: Zipper does not lay flat after sewing.

Remedies:
1. Operator should not pull fabric while stitching or without raising pressure foot.
2. Use minimum pressure foot.
3.Manage operator for proper sewing techniques.
Faulty Zipper:

Remedy:
This type of defect occurs due to unawareness. That is why during production the garments
should be checked properly (In line inspection) and the booking of trims &accessories must
be given as like as artwork.
Improper alignment of label:

Remedy:
This type of defects occurred due to unawareness. That is why during production the
garments should be checked properly (In line inspection) and the booking of trims
&accessories must be given as like as artwork.
Unstitched buttonhole:

Remedy:
This type of defects occurred due to unawareness. That is why during production the
garments should be checked properly (In line inspection) and the booking of trims
&accessories must be given as like as artwork.
Broken button:

Remedy:
This type of defects occurred due to unawareness. That is why during production the
garments should be checked properly (In line inspection) and the booking of trims
&accessories must be given as like as artwork
 Print distortion due to hanging thread: The pattern of the print breaks
where hanging thread appears.

Cause: Improper loose thread trimming prior to printing.

Remedies:
Ensure proper thread trimming before the process starts.
Oil Mark: Where oil spot appears during sewing fabric.

Remedies:
1. Use proper machine & machine adjustment.
2. Avoid damaged machine.
 Conclusion
Detection of faults during production of garment and fabric is crucial for improved quality
and productivity. This document presents and discuss the detection of faults and
malfunctions during the production and remedies of garment. We believe that our work
will help to identify the source of detected faults & proposes specific solutions for theses
faults causes. So that we can take necessary remedial steps to overcome the faults.