Metalsmithing at Home
with Kate Richbourg Resources
Here is an overview of the basic tools needed for the projects for this course. I am
dividing them into groups that are commonly used together (hammering tools,
cutting tools, etc.). I recommend keeping them together in bins or boxes to create
your “mobile jewelry studio” and for ease of use and storage.
Tip: Before purchasing the following
tools, take a look around the house. You
may have a few tools tucked away in a
drawer that are ready to come out and
see the light of day. More specialized
tools will be introduced and listed as
needed in the projects that follow later
in the lessons. For now let’s concentrate
on the basics.
Soldering Setup
Kiln brick, Solderite board or charcoal
block: Your soldering surface. All of these
stand up to the heat of the torch and will
help to accelerate the solder process.
Don’t use ceramic tile or red brick. These
will break when heated and do not retain
heat.
Solder picks: For applying solder and
adjusting components during soldering.
Flame retardant solder surface: A sheet of
metal or a jellyroll pan to protect your table.
Quenching cup: A metal or glass cup of
tap water to dip just-soldered pieces to
cool.
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Supplies &
Meet the Tools
Soldering tweezers (cross-locking
tweezers): For gripping hot metal and
transporting it to the quenching cup.
Safety glasses: To protect your eyes when
soldering or cutting metal.
Butane micro torch and fuel: Produces the
flame that makes the solder magic happen.
Fire extinguisher: This type of soldering is
very safe but it’s better to have it and not
need it.
Hammering and Filing Tools
Bench block: A smooth metal surface to
support metal while hammering.
Rubber mat, sandbag, or mousepad:
Dampens noise while hammering.
Rubber block: Supports pieces when filing.
Chasing hammer: A hammer with a round,
smooth and slightly domed surface used
to shape and flatten metal. Don’t use this
hammer to strike tools or stamps, which can
damage the surface.
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 Metalsmithing at Home Supplies &
with Kate Richbourg Resources

Meet the Tools

Plastic mallet or rawhide hammer: Both
hammers will flatten metal without
stretching it out or marring it.
Half-round jeweler’s file, needle files and
an assortment of sandpaper and nail files:
For shaping and smoothing metal.
Sawing and Cutting Tools
Jeweler’s saw frame and blades: Used for
making non-straight cuts in metal as well as
cutting through heavy-gauge stock.
Bench pin: A wood block that clamps to
your worktable and supports your project
during sawing.
French shears or scissor shears: Used for
making simple straight cuts in metal.
Power Punch Pliers or screw-down hole
punch: Used for making holes in metal.

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 Metalsmithing at Home Supplies &
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Quick Reference Guide for Oxidizing Metals

Silver Black/Black Max If you want to use Silver Black on gold-filled

Silver Black and Black Max are brand
names for a hydrochloric acid solution that
creates a dark black patina on silver and
fine silver. It also works on copper, brass,
nickel and gold-filled metal.
Since it is an acid solution, protective
gloves and safety glasses must be worn
when handling.
To use, cover your work surface with paper
towels. Lay the piece to be oxidized on
the towel and dip a cotton swab into the
jar of Silver Black. Swipe the swab over the
surface of the piece to oxidize. When the
desired effect is achieved, drop the piece
into a rinse bath of 1 cup water mixed
with 3 or 4 tablespoons of baking soda to
neutralize the acid.
metal, pour a small amount into a paper
cup. Wrap the tip of a cotton swab with a
piece of steel wool, dip into the Silver Black
in the cup and dab onto the piece. Do
not dip the cotton swab directly into the
jar because the steel will react with the
solution and damage it.
The steel forms a chemical charge that
makes the Silver Black oxidize the surface
of the gold. Neutralize the small amount of
Silver Black in the cup by dumping it into
the baking soda rinse solution. It is then safe
to pour out.

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 Metalsmithing at Home Supplies &
with Kate Richbourg Resources

Meet the Blazer Torch

Butane flow control (on/off)

Flame adjustment

Igniter

Stand

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 Metalsmithing at Home Supplies &
with Kate Richbourg Resources

Meet the Max Flame Torch

Igniter Flame adjustment

Safety Switch

Stand

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 Metalsmithing at Home Supplies &
with Kate Richbourg Resources

Meet the Max Flame Torch

Flame lock

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 Metalsmithing at Home Supplies &
with Kate Richbourg Resources

Supplies & Setup

Always Have on Hand Melting Points

• Fire extinguisher Hard solder: 750 C
• Safety glasses Medium solder: 700 C
• Paper towels Easy Solder: 650 C
• Hand wipes Hammering Setup
• Sandpaper and 3M Sanding Sponges • Bench block
(ranging from super fine to fine, medium,
• Mouse pad
and course)
• Sandbag (optional)
• Pro Polish Polishing Pads Steel wool
• Rubber bench block base (optional)
• Sharpie or other marker
• Rubber block (optional)
• Ruler
Sawing Setup
• Scissors
• Jeweler’s saw
Solder Setup
• 2/0 saw blades
• Metal pan with a lip large enough to hold
• Bench pin and clamp
your supplies, such as a baking sheet
• Cut lube
• Torches: Max Flame and Blazer
• Soldering brick Annealing Setup

• Quenching cup • Annealing pan or right-sized metal

container
• Cross locking teasers
• Pumice stone
• Butane (Recommended: a triple
refined fuel) • Charcoal block

• Paste solder (three grades: hard, medium, Tip: When heated repeatedly the
easy) charcoal block can become brittle
and break. Wrapping steel binding wire
• 3 Titanium picks
around the block before the first use
will keep the block together in case it
cracks, extending the life of the block.

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 Metalsmithing at Home Supplies &
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Supplies & Setup

Pickle Setup • Bench pin and clamp
• Small crock pot • Rubber block, wood block, or
folded towel
• Towel
• Half-round diamond jewelry file
• Pickle (Brand name: Sparex)
• Chasing hammer
• Water
• Power Punch Pliers
• Baking soda
• Screw-down hole punch
• Small plastic or class cup
• Flush cutter
Pickle Alternative
• Flat-nose or chain pliers
• Penny Brite metal cleaner
• Round-nose pliers
• Toothbrush (optional)
• Bent chain-nose pliers
• Brass brush (optional)
• Wrap-and-tap plier or ½” dowel
Antiquing Setup
• Period stamp (optional)
• Liver of sulfur (gel, liquid or crystal form)
• Brass hammer (optional)
• Mason jar with lid
• Needle file (optional)
• Plastic spoon
Chunky Stack Rings
Project-by-Project Supplies • Screw-down hole punch
Dangle Earrings
• A scrap of fine silver wire (flattened,
• 6” 20-gauge sterling silver wire 14-gauge wire is used in the video)
• 3 x 3” 22-gauge copper sheet • Granule - ¼” 18-g fine silver wire
• 12” 24 gauge copper wire cut • 4” 10-gauge round sterling silver wire
into 2” pieces
• 8” 10-gauge square sterling silver wire
• 6 freshwater pearls or other beads that
• 22- or 24-gauge brass embellishments
fit onto the wire
(can be punched from scraps)
• Rubber cement
• Millimeter gauge
• Jump ring or to make your own use
• Metal ring mandrel
18-gauge wire and 4-5 mm knitting needle
or wood dowel • Power Max Flush Cutter or jeweler’s saw

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 Metalsmithing at Home Supplies &
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Project Supplies
• Ring-bending pliers • Chasing hammer
• Chain-nose pliers • Nylon jaw bracelet bending pliers
• 1 extra pair of pliers (bent chain-nose, flat • Bracelet mandrel (optional)
nose, etc.)
Flower Pendant
• Rubber block or folded towel
• 4-mm, point-back stone of your choice
• Dapping block and punch tools
• 5 mm OD heavy wall sterling silver tube
• Brass mallet or household hammer
• 3” x 3” 22- or 24-gauge sterling silver sheet
• Chasing hammer
• Rubber cement
• Period stamp
• Half-round silver diamond file or half-round
• Half-round diamond jewelry file • 4-cut Swiss jewelry file
• Power Punch Plier (optional) • Slash stamp
Bangle Bracelet • Tube-holding jig
• 6” x 3” of 22-gauge sterling silver sheet • Large round-nose pliers
• 6” x 3” of 22-gauge copper sheet • Chain-nose pliers
(optional)
• Brass mallet
• 1” x 1” 22- or 24-gauge copper sheet
• Chasing hammer
embellishment
• Texturing hammer
• Jewelry scribe or divider
• Table vise
• French shears
• Dremel
• Rubber or wood block
• Screw-down hole punch
• Rubber mallet
• 5-mm stone setting burr
• Screw-down hole punch
• Bezel or tube-setting tool set
• Flat-nose pliers
• Dapping block and punch tools
• Heavy duty shears
Bonus Ear Wire
• Half-round Swiss diamond file
• 1 foot, 20-gauge sterling silver wire
• Square needle file
• Pen with cap
• Rubber block
• Chasing hammer

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 Metalsmithing at Home Supplies &
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Where to Buy

Finding tools and materials can be a challenge, so I have listed a few of my tried-
and-true resources.

Beaducation.com Tip: I also like to check out flea markets

and swap meets. I have found some of
Lots of tools and materials for every aspect
my favorite well-worn and well-loved
of metalwork. A great “go-to” site. Known
tools there.
for outstanding customer service and great
product tutorials.
Local Hardware Store
Riogrande.com
Find Dremel tools, sandpaper, drill bits and
One of the oldest jewelry suppliers in the storage for your stuff. When I need a tool fix,
industry. They carry a huge selection of I just walk the aisles in my local store.
tools and materials as well as beads and
And last, but certainly not least: Do you
gemstones.
have a bead store or lapidary supply in
Ottofrei.com your area? These wonderful small businesses
A tried-and-true supplier of jewelry tools are a dwindling resource and need our
and supplies. They are known for their support. Check them out. I’ll bet there is a
selection of high quality tools. friendly face behind the counter ready to
help.
Etsy.com/shop/KateRichbourgJewelry
My online Etsy shop. I carry an inventory of
my favorite tools and materials.
Etsy.com
Type “jewelry supplies” and “jewelry tools”
into the search box. I like checking on Etsy
from time to time just to browse. You’ll never
know what gem you might stumble across.

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 Metalsmithing at Home Supplies &
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Quick Reference Guide to Metals

Metal Melting Point Description

Fine Silver 1761°F • Fine silver is a pure metal, not an alloy.
It is very soft and is mostly used in wire
form for fusing.
• It is not used in fabricating as often as sterling
silver, because it is a soft metal.
• Fine silver does not tarnish or form firescale
under the heat of the torch.

Sterling Silver 1640°F • Sterling silver is an alloy of 92.5% silver

and 7.5% copper.
• Copper adds hardness and workability
to the silver.
• This metal is subject to firescale and tarnish,
unlike fine silver.

Brass 1652°-1724°F • An alloy of copper and zinc.

• Works well when gold-colored metals are
wanted in a design without the expense
of gold or gold-filled.
• Brass is subject to firescale and tarnish.
• After soldering and pickling brass, there may
be a copper coating left on the surface.
Remove the coating by sanding the surface
with a fine-grit sandpaper.

Gold Fill Similar to brass, depending on
composition of materials.
• Gold fill is karat gold (usually 12 or 14kt)
mechanically bonded to a base
metal core.
• It can be soldered. However, care must
be taken when filing or cleaning so as not to
remove the outer gold layer.

Nickel Silver 1455°F • An alloy of copper, zinc and nickel.

• It is silver in appearance, but does not contain
any actual silver.
• It does not have the same shiny appearance
as sterling or fine silver.

Copper 1984°F • Less expensive than other metals.

• Perfect for practicing your soldering skills.

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 Metalsmithing at Home Supplies &
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Quick Reference Guide for Oxidizing Metals

Oxidizing or darkening a finished piece is a nice touch to add contrast and depth to
your design.
Remember to wear safety glasses and protective gloves and work in a well-ventilated
area when using oxidizing solutions. There are two types of oxidation methods that are
common for jewelry: Liver of Sulfur and Silver Black.

Liver of sulfur the liquid in the bottle may get a crystal

LOS, as it is known, creates a dark black
color on copper and a dark gray color on
silver, but has no effect on gold, brass or
nickel. It is not a hazardous material, but it
does have a very strong sulfur smell. Use it
outside or in a well-ventilated area. It is most
effective when the solution is warm. To use,
simply dip the pieces to be oxidized until
the desired color is achieved. After oxidizing,
use steel wool or a Pro Polish Pad to buff
away the excess. Remember to mix small
batches so you do not have to dispose of a
large amount.
LOS comes in three different forms:
Crystal or rock: To use, add a piece about
the size of a dime to ½ cup warm water
and mix well. LOS in this form needs to be
kept in an airtight container and away from
sunlight or it will degrade.
Liquid: Use a very small amount
(approximately 1-2 teaspoons per ½ cup
water) and mix thoroughly. Liquid LOS lasts
much longer than the crystal form, though
layer over the top. Just squeeze the bottle
to break it up and use it as usual.
Gel: The LOS is suspended in a gel to keep
it stable. The gel form does not lose its
strength like the liquid and crystal forms.
Just squeeze a few drops from the bottle
into ½ cup warm water. Mix and it is ready
to use.
Remember that any container or
utensils that are used for LOS should
be reserved for that purpose only, and
never used for food. After using LOS, it
can be stored in an airtight container
and reheated on a small coffee warmer
for reuse. However, it does not keep for
more than a day or two. To dispose of
LOS, add a few tablespoons of baking
soda to neutralize the solution and then
pour it down the drain.

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