INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAPING WITH STRETCH KNITS

PREPARATION TO DESIGN WITH STRETCH FABRICS

1. Sketch first using FLATS body template –no elongation or distortion to the figures -
a. front, side, back view
2. Body templates are available on my Blog www.justinelimpusparish.wordpress.com
3. Determine Stretch Ratio – you must buy fabric before you attempt to drape or make patterns.
4. Swim & Stretch Patternmakers specialize in this material and will ask for the stretch ratios before they
can make a pattern or a sample

STETCH TEST

Cut out a 5” x 5” piece of fabric

Stretch entire width and length, not just

center section.

See Stretch Test Worksheet

DRAPE PATTERN PIECES ON DRESS FORM

FOR STRETCH FABRIC - YOU MUST DRAPE WITH THE ACTUAL FABRIC YOU WILL BE USING FOR THE
FINISHED GARMENT.

1. Start by pinning black tape to dress form to determine seam lines.

2. Use black ¼” Twill Tape.
3. Start from Center Front or Center Back and work out toward side seams.
4. Fabric must be straight with the grain line as you add each piece.
5. If garment is symmetrical you can drape ½ of design,
6. Photo and scan into Photoshop to mirror other side and work with color ways to see design options.
STRETCH FABRIC PATTERNMAKING INSTRUCTIONS – JUSTINE PARISH - 2012
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7. Each new piece you
add goes under the edge of the
previous piece.

If the seam is too far from the

apex of the curve

it may buckle along the edge unless it is stretched tight.

For looser ease to garment, move the seam closer to the curve apex
as shown.

Note that the seam

has
been moved and is
smoother.

STRETCH FABRIC PATTERNMAKING INSTRUCTIONS – JUSTINE PARISH - 2012

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MARK THE STITCHING LINES OF EACH PIECE

Use tailor’s chalk and draw a line along the edge of the
fold and along the matching line on the underneath
piece.

Mark all notches for seam sections that will need to

connect precisely such as curves, corners, etc

MATERIALS TO TRANSFER FABRIC PIECES TO PATTERN PAPER

All available at ACE Sewing Supply downtown

Draw cross hair grid line on paper. Paper is “dotty” pattern paper

This corresponds to GRAIN and CROSSGRAIN lines on fabric piece. Pin pattern piece to paper.

STRETCH FABRIC PATTERNMAKING INSTRUCTIONS – JUSTINE PARISH - 2012

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 TRANSFER STITCHING AND CUTTING LINES TO
PAPER.

Use pattern marking wheel. It will make holes in the

paper, or use carbon transfer paper to transfer
dotted lines to paper.

Remove fabric and redraw lines

stitching lines with pattern curves and
straight edges.

Add seam allowance –

1/2’ if you are doing a fitting.

3/8” for production sewing.

Add pattern piece description, all

notations, grain direction, notches,
etc…onto each piece of the pattern.

STRETCH FABRIC PATTERNMAKING INSTRUCTIONS – JUSTINE PARISH - 2012

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