Build this super solid Cast resin

OUTDOOR BENCH for $40 TURNING

Projects, Techniques, and Products

Make this elegant, open-frame SPICE BOX

PART 2 Page 49
JEWELRY CHEST

PLUS:
■ The Domino ■ Profiles:
revolution Scott Phillips
■ Custom ■ Flexible
keyhole inlay featherboard
■ Sam Maloof:

the ultimate
rocker
 Table of Contents
April/May 2017 | Issue 76
Projects 20 Build a Bench
Framing lumber never looked so good! Pick out the best 2×10s you can find,
then follow the instructions to go from board to beautiful.

36 Jewelry Chest
COVER Expand your box-making skills with an elegant, open-frame design that calls
for precise mortise-and-tenon joinery, book-matching, and dovetailed drawers.

49 Build a Classic Spice Box, Part 2

This adventure in craftsmanship concludes with door and drawer
construction, back panel installation, and a fitting finish.

Tools & 26 Cast Resin Turning

Techniques Molding wood and polyester together has a great payoff:
unique turning blanks you can transform into objects of unusual beauty.

30 Do More with Domino

Festool’s portable mortising machines provide joinery options that are fast, accurate,
and strong. And there’s more: the new Domino XL knock-down hardware system.

45 Customize a Keyhole with an Inlaid Escutcheon

Woodworkers have added this classic detail to doors and drawers for centuries.
Learn how to do it with modern tools and synthetic ivory.

36 49

2
 20 26

Departments
04 Contributors/
On the Web

06 Staying Sharp
• Around the world
with a Zinken MIA6

08 Profiles NEW
• Scott Phillips
30 45
10 News & Views
• A story worth sharing
• Not-so-easy baked wood
• If you build it, they will come

14 Hot New Tools

• Bow FeatherPRO

16 Tips & Tricks

• Book-matching legs
• Tape rule gauge
• Leveling a drill press table
08 62
58 Famous Furniture NEW
• The Maloof Rocker

60 Buyer’s Guide

62 WoodSense
• Mesquite

64 Ad Index

68 Expert Answers NEW 58

• O1 vs. A2 steel
• Brush cleaning basics
14

Cover Photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 3

Contributors
Chris Hedges didn’t get interested in woodworking
until completing a double major in philosophy and
sociology at Ohio University. But he made up for
lost time, enrolling in the University of Rio Grande’s
woodworking program and launching his own
furnituremaking business after graduating in 2007.
“I’m a big fan of Shaker style,” Chris says. “I
find there’s still a lot to learn from the restrained
ornamentation, the pleasing proportions, and
the durable, well-made joinery.” We’ve been
lucky to feature three of Chris’ projects on our
covers: a table (Feb/Mar 15, issue #63), standing
desk (April/May 16, issue #70) and his two-part
spice box adventure, which concludes in this
issue (p. 49). We’re also lucky to be welcoming
him onboard as a contributing editor.

The first American

Buying cheap furniture, only to see it fall apart, graduate of the John
was the catalyst that got Keith Lackner started Makepeace School for
as a woodworker. Early inspiration came from Craftsmen in Wood
Norm Abram and The New Yankee Workshop. But in Dorset, England,
it was a weeklong course with master woodworker Geoffrey Noden
David Marks that kicked Keith’s woodworking into (geoffreynoden.com)
top gear. “I saw that David was not just making is also the inventor of
wooden furniture, but pieces of art like I had never the Adjust-A-Bench
seen before,” Keith recalls. He started turning (adjustabench.com)
pens, and soon moved on to bigger, bolder work, and the Inlay Razor
incorporating a love of burls and figured wood (inlayrazor.com). See
that he learned from Marks. Today Keith runs his page 36 for the elegant
own custom woodworking business and teaches Jewelry Chest that he
classes at the Woodcraft store in Woodridge, IL. designed and built
Keith’s article on resin turning begins on p. 26. from cherry. ■

On the Web
FREE stuff! There are a few
challenging procedures in
the Jewelry Chest project
that begins on page 36. But
the build is well within reach,
especially when armed with a
few choice techniques and jigs.
Check out our onlineEXTRAs More on the marvelous mortiser. If this issue’s
page to download FOUR totally article on the Domino joiners captured your interest,
FREE articles that will help you’ll want to check out the short video we produced
you build this beautiful box. as an onlineEXTRA. See the Domino in action. ■

4
Staying Sharp

Around the world with a Zinken MIA6

Woodworking is truly an international Woodcraft Magazine. I sold my MIA6 a couple of years ago,
language, thanks to our common to a Brooklyn-based woodworker with a tiny workshop; he
knowledge of tools, techniques, and really appreciated the machine’s small footprint and multiple
joinery details, as well as the appreciation we share for sharp functions. But the digital trail leading back to my original blog
edges and beautiful grain. It’s nice to be reminded of this continues to expand, so the Zinken is still helping me to grow
unity, especially during divisive times. For the last 10 years, my list of pen pals.
I’ve had the good (and unexpected) fortune to make friends Whether your woodworking buddies are down the street
with woodworkers all over the world, thanks to a single blog or on another continent, it feels good to share ideas and help
I wrote about an unusual combination machine. each other out. Let’s keep doing it together. ■
Here’s the backstory: I’m a tool junky just like you, and I
sometimes indulge this addiction by cruising the tools for
sale on Craigslist. That’s how I ended up with an Italian-made
combination woodworking machine called a Zinken MIA6.
Manufactured sometime in the 1980s, the MIA6 is about
the size of a portable table saw. But through a dizzying array
of flexible belts, the Zinken’s single motor can power five
functions: table saw, jointer, planer, shaper and horizontal
mortiser. There’s even a sliding table that can be used with
the saw and shaper.
The Zinken didn’t work when I bought it, so I set about
finding an owner’s manual and troubleshooting various
problems. I wrote about my Zinken adventures in a blog at
MotherEarthNews.com. About a month after the blog was
published, I received an email from a woodworker in Australia
who also had a Zinken he was trying to restore. I sent him the
owner’s manual and other documents I had tracked down,
along with a wish of “good luck, mate.”
Since that initial inquiry, I’ve received a slow but steady
stream of queries from all over. Thanks to this little project,
I’ve met woodworkers from England, Belgium, South Africa, Mighty midget. Look carefully and you’ll see all five
Germany, the Netherlands, and even Italy, the Zinken’s country functions this compact combo machine can perform.
of origin. I always try to find out what kind of woodworking To see a modern-day version of the MIA6 in action,
my new acquaintances are doing, and let them know about go to zinkendesigner.net, and click on the video tab.

Contact us: Canada Post: Publications Mail Agreement #40612608

April/May 2017 Vol. 13, Issue 76
Chief Editor: Tim Snyder
Senior Editors: Paul Anthony, Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
Managing Editor: Chad McClung
Associate Art Director: Bobby Schehl
Contributing Editor: Chris Hedges
Copy Editor: Sharon Hambrick
Publisher: Gary Lombard
Advertising Sales Manager: Vic Lombard
Circulation Support: Kim McLaughlin, Stacey Bartenschlag
Office Manager: Connie Harmon
Circulation: Circulation Specialists, Inc.
4420 Emerson Avenue, Suite A
P.O. Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020
(800) 542-9125
editor@woodcraftmagazine.com
Subscriptions: (U.S. and Canada)
One year: $19.99
Single copy: $6.99
customer_service@woodcraftmagazine.com
(800) 542-9125
Woodcraft Magazine (ISSN: 1553.2461, USPS
024-953) is published bimonthly (Dec/Jan, Feb/Mar,
April/May, June/July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov) and printed in
the United States. Postage paid at Parkersburg, WV, and at
additional mailing offices.
POSTMASTER: Send address changes to
Woodcraft Magazine, P.O. Box 7020,
Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020.
Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes,
P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2
©2017 by Woodcraft Supply, LLC. All rights reserved.
Woodcraft Supply, LLC allows the purchaser of this magazine
to photocopy the included projects and techniques solely for
personal use. Any other reproduction of these projects and
techniques is strictly prohibited.
Safety First! Working wood can be dangerous. Always make
shop safety your first priority by reading and following the
recommendations of your machine owner’s manuals, using
appropriate guards and safety devices, and maintaining all
your tools properly. Use adequate sight and hearing protection.
Please note that for purposes of illustrative clarity, guards and
other safety devices may be removed from tools shown in
photographs and illustrations in this publication.

6
Profiles
Scott Phillips Still going strong after 24 seasons
of hosting The American Woodshop
WC: How long have you
and Suzy been together?
SP: We’ve been married
for 21 wonderful years.
WC: Who is your
biggest influence?
SP: Sam Maloof impacted
my woodworking life
more than anyone else.
He was—and still is—a
huge influence. I was at
the right place at the right
time when I met him. Sam
changed the way we all look
at chairs. It was so amazing
to see the last 10 minutes of
construction when the chair
A talented team. Scott and Suzy Phillips show off a Shaker-inspired really came to life. He knew
spindle bench from the 24th season of The American Woodshop. how to work a spokeshave.
WC: With 24 successful
cott Phillips is always on. Over the course of the seasons of The American
S last few years, as we worked together on articles,
photo shoots and videos, I kept waiting for a lapse
in enthusiasm or energy. By now I’ve learned that it
Woodshop, what’s
your message?
ain’t gonna happen. That warm, talented, energetic SP: If you want something,
woodworker you see along with his wife, Suzy, on TV build it. Don’t buy gifts, make preach, but I get the word
is the same guy you meet in person. Scott and Suzy them. It doesn’t have to be a
use their show to spread a simple message: If you want big armoire or a highboy—
something, make it. turn a pen or a bowl. Make
—Chad McClung a bandsawn box. You have
these skills at your fingertips.
WC: How long have you then. It beat the heck You have all the “tools” in
been working wood? out of cutting grass. your imagination to make
your home, garden and
SP: I’ve been at it for WC: What about your kitchen shine with personal
50 years. I started at 11 wife and co-host, Suzy? handmade decorative art.
years old. I was selling And it doesn’t have to
walnut shelves to folks in SP: Suzy has been a carver stop there; woodworking
my neighborhood when all her life and has been is more than furniture and
I was 12. My dad’s shop turning for 10 years. gifts. Make your house
was a happening place Now, I can’t pull her away your castle. Decorate it
in the Midwest back from the scrollsaw. with your own trim and
8 Photo: Meghan Murray, WBGU-TV
wainscoting. Suzy and I not
only made all the furniture
in our house, we did all the
molding and trim work too.
We even built the stairs.
WC: What’s the
theme this season?
SP: Woodworking’s Three
“R’s”: Restorations, Rebuilds
and Recycling. We use
reclaimed and upcycled
materials that are easy on
everyone’s budget. Suzy and
I also explore combining
wood with metal and
glass in artful ways.
WC: Your ratings are
higher than ever. Why
do you think that is?
SP: Working with your
hands resonates satisfaction.
And that binds us
woodworkers together.
More people are taking that
message to heart. I don’t
out there and share ideas.
WC: Any parting words
for our readers?
SP: Have fun in the shop.
Don’t listen to those people
who say you shouldn’t sign
your work. Take ownership
of your creations, and show
them off. Celebrate the
individual touch. Make
mistakes, and put good
criticism to work on your
next project. Stay positive,
and keep working wood! ■
April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 9
News & Views

A story worth sharing

I found last issue’s “A Pro’s Guide to Cut Lists” (Feb/Mar, Issue #75) to be very informative
and instructive, and I’d like to share it with my fellow woodworkers at the next meeting of the
Valley Woodworkers of West Virginia (valleywoodworkers.org). Having worked in the maga-
zine business for 30+ years, I did not want to be guilty of copyright infringement, so I thought
it would be wise to check with you first. Keep up the great articles in Woodcraft Magazine!
—Lou Eubank, via email

Chief editor Tim Snyder responds:

I’m glad that you’re enjoying the magazine, and I agree with
you about the Cut List article; the story and worksheet can help
How to reach us
woodworkers with any project they are interested in building. Being Email editor@woodcraftmagazine.com
able to distinguish between parts that can be cut to the finished -or-
dimensions provided on a set of plans and parts that must be cut to write to Woodcraft Magazine, 4420 Emerson Ave.,
size during the course of a project is an important concept. For this Suite A, Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV, 26102-7020.
reason, we’re making Paul Anthony’s article available for free on our
website (go to woodcraftmagazine.com and click “OnlineEXTRAS” Important: Please include your full name,
for Issue 75). Yes, you can make copies, as long as there are no address, and phone number. Published
fees or profits associated with the distribution of these copies. letters are edited for length and clarity.

10
Not-so-easy baked wood
I found the article and photos of roasted maple particularly interesting
and informative. I would like to know if I can roast wood myself, and
the needed times and temperatures.
—Aldo Del Rosario, Summerton, South Carolina
Chief editor Tim Snyder responds:
Considering that the Vikings were heat-treating wood back in the
8th Century, it’s certainly possible to make your own roasted, or
torrified, wood, but it’s not terribly practical. When you factor the
time, risk of fire, and the likelihood of failure until you master the
process, commercially prepared wood is a bargain. If you’re set on
doing your own experiments, you might find this summary helpful.
Modern-day torrefaction involves several stages. First, the wood
is gradually heated to approximately 130°C for about 20 hours to
lower the moisture content to almost 0%. To obtain the rich roasted
color, the wood is then heated to about 200°C. (This time varies
based on wood and desired color.) As wood cools, water vapor is
reintroduced to bring the moisture level back to about 5%. This
restores the wood’s natural flexibility and makes it easier to work.
If you build it,
they will come
Is baseball or woodworking America’s favorite
pastime? Consider this: While the ghostly
ballplayers in Field of Dreams disappeared into
a cornfield after a few innings, Handworks is
planning its third annual woodworking palooza
amidst the Iowa cornfields. The two-day event
will take place in a restored, timber-frame
barn and other notable buildings located
in the historic village of Amana. Scheduled
for May 19-20, Handworks is free to all who
wish to attend. But plan on bringing some
spending money, because an impressive
number of premium tool manufacturers will
be there, along with woodworking celebrities
like Roy Underhill, master furnituremakers,
and woodworking schools. For more
information, go online to handworks.co. ■
April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 11
Hot New Tools

Foam-Fingered Jig
FeatherPRO Featherboard by Bow Products
oam fingers are a common sight at football games, but Bow
F Products deserves the Super Bowl ring for bringing them
into the workshop. Unlike the wooden or plastic fingers on
other jigs, the FeatherPRO employs a strip of high-density
foam that is cut to create fingers—some might call these
thumbs—separated by a “living hinge.” This engineered pat-
tern enables the foam to hold boards tight against the rip
fence when making rips and dado cuts, while preventing the
chance of kickback. plastic-fingered featherboard, the FeatherPRO’s plastic base
Foam has other unique advantages. By expanding over the allows you to slide in a replacement finger strip and return
top edge of thinner boards, the fingers also serve as hold- to work. Bow offers optional ultralight fingers, but I haven’t
downs to keep the workpiece against the saw table. (Note: yet encountered a situation where the standard fingers didn’t
FeatherPROs can be stacked for resawing.) Foam can also get the job done.
help dampen vibration. Although minor, I appreciated that You can make a featherboard that will help keep you safe,
the fingers did not produce the distracting “sproing!” noise but it won’t work as well as this one. For this reason, I think
at the end of a cut. this jig is worth shelling out a few bucks. ■
The FeatherPRO costs more than plastic-fingered competition. Tester: Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
But where a chance encounter with a sawblade would trash a For more information, see Buyer’s Guide on p. 60.

14 Photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert

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• 220V Servo Motor provides up to 300% overload capacity
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• 14" over bed capacity (10" over the tool rest)
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Tips & Tricks

Book-matching legs 1 Switch location of Rotate remaining

diagonally opposed legs. 2 legs 180°.

When making a project with four square

legs, such as the jewelry chest on page Use riftsawn stock
36, a nice visual touch is to configure the (with diagonal
annular rings).
legs to display book-matched grain when
viewed from any side of the piece. Here’s
how to do it: Begin with a square piece
of riftsawn stock the length of the legs. It Triangle
should be twice the thickness of a finished reference
mark
leg, plus about ¼". Draw a triangle on one
end, and then rip the piece into quarters
to make four individual leg blanks. Using
Book-matched Book-matched
the triangle as a reference, reconstitute the faces faces
pieces back into their original order, and
number the ends as shown. Then switch
the position of two diagonally placed legs, Share a Slick Tip. Win Cash or a Prize!
and rotate the remaining two legs 180°. Awards Send your ideas to:
Top Tip award: $250 Woodcraft Gift Card Tips & Tricks, Woodcraft Magazine,
Maintaining this relationship of the legs Published illustrated tip: $125 P.O. Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020
on the project will create book-matched Published non-illustrated tip $75 or visit woodcraftmagazine.com and click “contact”.
leg grain on each face of the piece.
Important: Please include your phone number, as an editor may need to call you if your trick
—Geoffrey Noden, Trenton, New Jersey is considered for publication. Published tips become the property of Woodcraft Magazine.

16
 Tape rule gauge
For accurate work, you need accurate
measuring tools, and that includes your
tape rule. Unfortunately, the sliding tang
on a tape rule—which allows for taking
inside and outside measurements—is often
the tool’s Achilles’ heel. Inexpensive tape
rules are particularly prone to inaccurate
measurements taken from the end of the tape.
When buying a new tape rule, make sure that
both the inside and outside measurements made
using the tang are accurate. To check this, I bring to
the store a very accurate gauge block I made for the
purpose. To avoid parallax when gauging the tape,
roll it over slightly so the edge of the tape actually
lays on the workpiece. The gauge is also useful
for checking the accuracy of your tape rule after
dropping it and possibly bending the tang. A bent
tang can easily be corrected with a pair of pliers.
—Paul Anthony, senior editor

Press tang against side of

groove to check accuracy for
taking inside dimensions.

Pull against
edge of groove
for outside
dimension
check.

1" For best read, roll

1"
edge of tape against
gauge block.

videoTIP
Go to woodcraftmagazine.com
and click on the videos tab
to see this tip in action.

Illustrations: Christopher Mills April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 17

Tips & Tricks

Leveling a drill Rotate chuck by hand,

and use nail on gauge as
table-leveling reference.
press table
When leveling my drill press table, Install 16d nails into
I’ve tried the old trick of mounting slightly undersized
pilot holes in stick.
a bent coat hanger in the chuck and
rotating it as a reference. However, I
found that the hanger flexed too much
for reliability. Instead, I use a sturdier
gauge made from a ¾ × ¾" stick and
two 16d common nails. Make the stick
long enough to reach from the chuck to
the edge of the table, and drill slightly
undersized pilot holes to firmly hold
the nails without splitting the wood.
Install the nails as shown, mount the
gauge in the chuck, and adjust your videoTIP
table to barely graze the head of the nail Go to woodcraftmagazine.com
when rotating the chuck by hand. ■ and click on the videos tab
—John Worst, Orlando, Florida to see this tip in action.

18
April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 19
 Paired parts
Building this bench is an
exercise in creating identical
pairs: 2 leg assemblies, 2
long rails, and 2 seat boards.

Build a
Think spring with this
solid, simple bench
made from two 2×10s.

BENCH Designed by Andy Rae

Written & built by Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk

ome woodworkers turn up their noses at 2-by lumber, but it’s a great
One quick hit to
This project is designed to

S choice for beginners and for experienced woodworkers who want to enjoy
a weekend in the shop. Cypress and cedar are nice, but considering that
the pine version can be built for $40, I’m betting that a few woodworkers may
make the most of two 2×10s.
To maximize yield, I outfitted my
tablesaw with a thin-kerf blade.
reconsider home center stock. When planing, I stopped a few
Despite its simplicity, this seat is surprisingly sturdy. Mortise-and-tenon passes sooner than I normally
construction and exterior-grade hardware create a base that’s able to withstand do and dealt with deeper mill
almost anything Mother Nature might send its way. marks with a sander and hand

20
 SEAT BOARD
11⁄2 × 91⁄4 × 59"

30° chamfer

1
⁄4"
⁄4"
3

Dado
11⁄2 × 1⁄2"

Tabletop
fastener

⁄2"
1

SHORT RAIL
30° 11⁄2 × 41⁄2 × 11"
27⁄8" HedLok
fastener

LONG RAIL Tenon

11⁄2 × 41⁄2 × 471⁄2" 3
⁄4 × 33⁄4 × 11⁄4"

POST
11⁄2 × 41⁄2 × 113⁄4"

1"

Notes: Overall part

dimensions include 41⁄2"
tenons. All tenons are
3
⁄4 × 33⁄4 × 11⁄4" FOOT 1
⁄8"t UHMW RISER Stainless steel screw
11⁄2 × 41⁄2 × 191⁄2" #8 × 11⁄4"

your home center, then start building Order of Work

plane. Cutting parts to rough length helps
reduce milling, but keep short pieces
together so that they can be machined
safely. Should your stock come in under
the listed dimensions, it’s no big deal, but
center the mortising jig on your stock.
The mortise-and-tenon leg assemblies
are joined with Titebond 3. The table clips
• Mill the wood
do more than create a cleaner-looking • Build the jigs
seat, they eliminate the screw holes that • Rout the mortises & tenons,
might let in moisture or cause rust stains. and assemble the legs
It might seem out of sequence, but I • Cut legs to final shape
suggest varnishing the seat before starting • Dado the rails
the leg assemblies. This way, these boards • Assemble the base
will be a few protective coats ahead of the • Attach the seat
game when you start to finish the base.

Photos: Ralph Lee Anderson; Illustrations: Frank Rohrbach III April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 21
Make the legs, then rout and cut them to shape
The joinery goes quickly, thanks to a few shop- Mortising Template
made jigs. I made this dedicated T-shaped
jig for the mortises, and then used my router
table to cut the matching tenons. I put the bit/ 11⁄4"
10"
bushing setup into service again when routing
4"
the lift on the bottom of the leg assembly.
To cut the tapered sides, first lay out
the sides on the assembled leg assemblies.
Next, set the leg on a plywood sled, and set 21⁄4"
stopblocks so that the line corresponds to the
edge. Finally, cut the notches for the rails.

FENCE
11⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 14"

Taking the plunge. When paired with a plunge router equipped

with a 1⁄2" upcut spiral bit and 1" OD bushing, this simple MDF jig
makes quick work of the mortises in the feet and posts. Plan on
vacuuming out the cavity a few times before completing the mortise.

Tenon & Mortise Tune-Up

Slide to the stop. Cutting the 11⁄4" long tenons Rounding tenons. Rounding the ends Chisel a chamfer. Chamfering the
on the router table takes several passes, but of the tenons is faster and easier than top edges makes it easier to fit the
results in super-smooth cheeks. Attach a fence squaring the ends of the mortises. Plane tenons and catches excess glue that
and stopblock to your miter gauge as shown. the cheeks as needed for a snug fit. would otherwise ooze from the joint.

22
 Lay out notches
before tapering post.
Leg Assembly Foot Template
1"
PLYWOOD PATTERN
1
⁄2 × 10 × 25"
1"

11⁄4"
1"

11"

Block prevents
exit tearout.

Squeeze it together. Three clamps are all it takes to Follow the pattern. The lift for the foot can be done with a bandsaw
join the leg assemblies. Make sure that the foot extends or jigsaw, but the bit and bushing combo produces a curve that
past the outer edges of both posts by 1". requires less cleanup. Tack a block to the foot to prevent tearout.

Use a sled to slice the leg.

This plywood sled produces
perfectly symmetrical sides
without picking up a protractor.
After cutting one edge of each
leg assembly, adjust the side
stopblock and cut the opposite
edge. Cut the rail notches
with a handsaw or jigsaw.

April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 23

Assemble the base
and add the seat
After cutting the long rails to length, lay out the
dadoes. To make perfectly matching dadoes, I
again enlisted my plunge router and spiral bit
(but removed the bushing guide), and clamped
both rails to a T-square jig, as shown at right.
To join the long rails to the leg assemblies, I
used exterior-grade structural screws that sport
special threads and tough epoxy finish.
This bench isn’t going to come apart at the seams, but
a few extra steps can help keep it looking good. To seal
and protect the wood, I disassembled and applied three Two rails in one pass. To create matching dadoes in both long rails,
coats of spar varnish to all surfaces. Lastly, I attached simply align the notch in the jig’s crossbar with your layout line and rout.
UHMW foot pads to protect base from standing water. Repeat on the opposite end. A scrap board prevents chip-out.

Lock in the rails. Now clip in the seat.

Epoxy-coated structural Use a biscuit joiner to cut
HeadLok screws offer #10 biscuit slots in the long
the strength of a bolt, but and short rails The fasteners
can be installed with a drill or hold the seat to the base, but
impact driver. The head is designed to self-sink; for a cleaner allow the wood to respond to
appearance, counterbore the holes with a 3⁄8" Forstner bit. seasonal changes in humidity.

BYOB (Build Your Own Bench)

The simplicity and low cost of this project should encour-
age you to take creative license. For example, if you
plan on using this bench in a garage or three-season
porch, try painting the base with milk paint and topping
it with Watco Danish Oil. For outdoor use, step up to
spar varnish. Although a thermo-treated poplar seat
costs more than construction-grade pine, this walnut
imposter is weather and insect resistant.

24
 Molding wood and polyester
CAST RESIN together provides an

Turning
By Keith Lackner
opportunity to turn objects
of unusual beauty

y introduction to turning began of cracks and bark inclusions. I bought

M with small projects. Turning

Control the cut. Resin is hard and dense, so
you can expect to sharpen often and remove
small amounts of material at a time.
wooden pens helped me learn
basic skills, and I used some of the
money from selling pens to fund my
hobby. Before long, I started to buy resin
pen blanks because of the amazing vari-
ety of colors that are available.
It took a few years for me to realize
the unique turning you can create by
combining resin and wood. (A few exa-
ples are shown above.) It all started in
northern California when I was taking a
woodworking course at the David Marks
school. On a trip to a local wood dealer,
I saw some figured Claro walnut logs full
a log and took it back to my shop in
Illinois, with no idea of how this beauti-
ful specimen might be used. Then one
night when I was turning a pen that
contained resin and burl wood, it hit
me: Why not combine resin and wood
for larger-scale turning?
My biggest problem was lack of infor-
mation—what resin to use, how to add
color, how to get resin into cracks and
inclusions, and so on. After plenty of
trial and error, I’ve developed the tech-
niques shown here and made cast resin
turning a specialty in my woodworking
business. I hope you’ll give it a try.

26
 Resin-casting essentials
It doesn’t take much to gear up for resin casting
(See Buyer’s Guide, p. 60.) The Alumilite resin Cordless drill with
paddle mixer
I use is available in different quantities. Power- Pressure pot Resin
(Part A & Part B)
mixing with a drill and paddle is preferable to
mixing by hand because of the resin’s short
working time. Your major investment will be a
painter’s pressure pot; basic models sell for $150
or less. The pot is designed to be pressurized
by an air compressor and comes with a gauge Mixing
to help you maintain a safe pressure range. containers
Pressurizing the resin is essential for eliminating
bubbles in the casting and forcing resin into all
the cracks and crannies in the wood.
Powdered pigments Liquid dyes Scale with digital readout

Wood prep is an important first step

I’ve found that my success in creating a good resin-infused
turning blank depends largely on how well I can prepare the
wood that will form the core of the casting. There are two
parts to the prep work you need to do: cleaning and drying.

Clean, then bake. To ensure a good bond between resin and

wood, it’s important to remove dirt, dust and loose bark. I remove
grit from crevices with a curved awl. General surface cleaning can
be done with a drill and wire-brush accessory. Use compressed air
to blow the blank clean. For thorough drying, I put the blank into a
220° toaster oven for at least six hours, then test for dryness with
a moisture meter. For best results, dry wood to 5% MC or lower.

Photos: Jacob Carr April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 27

 Make a mold to
contain the casting
The mold will become part of the casting,
and is cut away after the resin cures. I like to
use melamine-coated particleboard (MCP)
to make this type of one-time mold. MCP
is inexpensive, readily available, and easy to
work with. Assembling the mold with hot-melt
glue and screws creates a leakproof container
for the resin. Make sure to remove the screws
before cutting the mold free of the casting.
A quick custom-made mold. Size your mold not
just for the wood, but also for the blank you’d like to
turn. The resin can make up the rest of the volume.
Secure the wood inside the mold with glue or a screw
to prevent the wood from floating when resin is added.
I record wood and tinting details on the outside of the
mold. This eliminates confusion if I store the resin
casting for any length of time before turning it.
28
Estimate with rice,
then mix the resin
and fill the mold
Plan to work quickly, because the Alumilite resin
has an open time of just 12 minutes after Part A and
Part B are blended. The resin is mixed by weight,
but I need a volume estimate to get started. I fill
the mold with rice to establish the volume, then I
mix equal weights of Parts A and B to create the
total volume required. Mix with a drill and paddle,
only until the Alumilite becomes completely clear.
Then pour resin into separate pigment containers.
Fill the mold as soon as your tinting is done.
Put in the pigment first. Since I’m
using several colors in this mold, I use a
separate mixing container for each color.

Mix the resin, mix the colors, then fill
the mold. I use a drill and paddle mixer to
blend equal weights Part A and Part B until
the cloudy mixture turns clear. Then I divide
the activated resin into separate containers
containing my different pigments. Work
quickly here, so you can fill the mold and put it
under pressure before the resin starts to cure.
Cure under pressure,
then cut the mold free
and get set for turning
Putting the resin under pressure eliminates bubbles
and voids; it also forces the resin deep into the wood.
After placing the mold in my pot and securing the
lid, I connect my compressor hose and add air until
the pressure gauge reads around 60 psi. Never exceed
your pot’s pressure rating. For a mold this size, I
only need to keep the pressure on for about an hour
and a half. Then I let the resin cure overnight.
Remove the mold to free up the blank.
The resin will bond to the mold as well
as to the wood inside. Remove all the
fasteners in the mold, then cut the blank
free. This can be done on the tablesaw
or on the bandsaw, as shown above.
Resin casting offers creative possibilities
that are limited only by your imagination
and the size of your pressure pot.
Now you’re ready to turn.
April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 29
 Do More with
DOMINO
In a class by itself, this pricey
power tool makes mortising easy
and accurate enough to change 1. MARK
the way you do woodworking
By Tim Snyder

hen I had my first look at the Domino shallow biscuit slots, the Domino cuts precise you can tailor your loose-tenon joinery to fit

W DF 500, I wasn’t that impressed.

The tool’s resemblance to a biscuit
joiner left me wondering why Festool would
try to compete with well-made tools from
Porter-Cable, DeWalt and Lamello. I was
in for a surprise. Instead of milling narrow,
mortises of different sizes with surprising
speed and precision. This performance is
possible because of a unique drivetrain that
combines router-level RPMs with oscillating
action. By using different spiral-fluted cutters
and making adjustments on the machine,
your project. To make the job even faster and
easier, you can buy ready-made loose tenons
that match your mortise sizes.
Building on the popularity of the first
Domino joiner (the DF 500), Festool devel-
oped an XL model that can mill mortises that

Adjustable Mortise length Plunge depth

Domino Joiner DF 500 Q $895.00 fence adjustment adjustment

The Domino DF 500 was Festool’s first portable mortising

machine. With four mortising widths, this tool can handle
anything from face frames and delicate slat assemblies
to small furniture projects and cabinet doors.
Basic price includes: Systainer, power cord,
wrench, 6mm cutter. Three other cutters available,
along with matching Domino tenons.
RPM: 23,400
TOOL WEIGHT: 7 lbs.
Fence
MORTISING DEPTHS: 5 ( 5⁄8"-11⁄8", 15mm-28mm) height
stops

Mortise
spacer tab

10mm 14mm

8mm 12mm

6mm

5mm
30
 2. MORTISE
are larger and deeper. Like other Festool power
tools, both Domino models connect with a tool-
triggered vacuum to deliver close to dust-free
performance. Every Domino owner I’ve spoken
with agrees that these tools are
expensive, but worth every
penny. See if you agree.
Mortise
spacer tab
10mm
8mm
3. ASSEMBLE
Precise, strong, flexible and fast. Domino cutters rotate and oscillate to cut precise,
smooth-sided mortises. Completing the joinery shown in these three photos took less
than three minutes, from layout to clamp-up. Designed with production-friendly features,
both Domino models allow you to use different bits, depth settings and mortise widths,
along with a matching selection of loose tenon “Dominos.” The result: Versatile joinery
capabilities that enable you to handle a wide variety of cabinetry and furniture projects.
Mortise
length
adjustment
Plunge depth
adjustment
Fence height
stops
Domino XL Joiner DF 700 - $1,310.00
The DF 700 takes up where the 500 leaves off, offering
larger and deeper tenoning capacity that’s suitable
for full-size door construction and larger furniture.
Basic price includes: Systainer, power cord, wrench,
cross stop, trim stop, 12mm bit. Three other bits available.
RPM: 21,000
TOOL WEIGHT: 11.6 lbs.
MORTISING DEPTHS: 12 ( 5⁄8"-23⁄4", 15mm-70mm)
April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 31
Production-friendly features save time when a project
Festool tool designers are adept at anticipating
real-world uses for their tools and incorporating
features that save time and improve ease of use,
without sacrificing precision. They did their
homework with the Domino, using detents
for common fence angles, adding stops for
different stock thicknesses, and developing
useful attachments to facilitate spacing mortises
and mortising small parts. The cross-pin
and trim stop attachments shown below are
Festool accessories that can be purchased
separately for Domino joiners or bundled
into “sets” when buying a new machine. Quick bit changes. Flipping a lever separates the Domino’s drivetrain
from the fence assembly, providing access to a threaded chuck. The
polished thrust rods slide smoothly in specially lubricated housings.

Mortise alignment without measuring. Attach the

cross-pin adapter to set regular intervals between
mortises. This attachment eliminates the need to make
matching alignment marks across joining parts.
Small part solution. The trim attachment has a pair of
adjustable fences that keep small parts (like the stretcher
rung shown above) perfectly positioned for mortising.

Repeatable fence height settings. The stepped

design of the fence height gauge provides multiple
stops that enable you to quickly return to a specific
setting. Aftermarket gauges are available that show
imperial rather than metric stops (see p. 34).

32
needs many mortises Different Options
for Dominos
You can make your own loose tenons to match
Domino mortises. But it would be very difficult to
duplicate the precision and machining that makes
Festool Dominos so useful. Standard Dominos are
made from European beech. Mahogany Dominos
are available for outdoor projects.
All Dominos have size labels incised into their
faces, along with shallow recesses that do a good
job of holding glue. The tiny grooves along the
curved sides provide an escape route for air and
excess glue, allowing each tenon to seat fully in
its mortise.
If you’re buying a Domino joiner, it makes sense
to buy a Systainer that contains your tool’s full
range of Domino sizes. Otherwise, you can buy
smaller boxes of individual sizes.
Designed by Domino.
Projects like this small
bench show how Domino
joinery can impact the design of a
woodworking project. Deep mortising
capability makes through tenons
possible with the DF 700. The DF
500 excels at smaller-scale joinery
like the slatted stretcher assembly.

Snug but smooth. Tiny grooves machined into the

sides keep the fit snug but facilitate easy installation.
Beech and mahogany Dominos are shown above.

Multiple mortises. Two mortise length settings enable you to achieve exact Select your size. You can
alignment and easy assembly. The snug-fitting mortise setting was used for all buy a Systainer containing an
mortises on the near stretcher, and for the two outermost mortises on the far assortment of Domino sizes or
stretcher. Longer mortises for all remaining tenons make for easier glue-up. small boxes of specific sizes.

April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 33

Aftermarket accessories add versatility
Considering the Domino joiner’s
popularity, it’s not surprising that
different accessories have been
developed to make the tool more
useful. Seneca Woodworking models. Two of my favorites are
has the largest selection of these shown below. It’s important to note
aftermarket items, offering useful that using non-Festool products
accessories for both Domino may void the tool’s warranty.

Small mortise capability. Install this threaded Easier adjustments. By replacing the metric stock thickness
extension on an DF 700, and you’ll be able to use gauge with this aftermarket version, you get fence stops
smaller DF 500 cutters on the larger machine. compatible with common dimension lumber thicknesses.

Knock-down hardware for 14mm mortises

Domino Connectors is a new system of knock-down
hardware designed to work with the DF 700’s largest
(14mm) mortise. The entire hardware kit comes in
a standard-size Systainer, as shown below. The KD
components enable you to make frame connections
(like bed rail to post) and butt-joint “countertop”
connections. 14mm Dominos are included with the
kit, for use in maintaining strength and alignment.
Although the bin of components looks daunting at
first glance, the system doesn’t take long to master.

Bed frame solution. The threaded stud that extends between

fixed components has a dished end. When the pointed set screw
is tightened, it engages the dished profile to pull the joint tight.

Countertop assembly.
Alternating beech
tenons with KD
fittings creates tight,
It’s all in the box. Festool’s Connectors system strong butt joints.
even includes snap-in-place plastic covers
for the mortises, in three different colors.

34
Jewelry
CHEST
hile studying woodworking
W in the early 1980’s at the John
Makepiece School in England,
I was taken by an open-sided chest of
drawers at Makepiece’s home. Basically
constructed of sticks connecting the four
legs, with the drawers exposed, the piece’s
delightfully honest architecture exposed
its every component. Furthermore, pull-
ing out a drawer augmented the aesthet-
ics of the piece, drawing attention to the
framework and the see-through negative
space behind the drawer. The construc-
tion inspired me to build a floor-standing
“see-through lingerie chest” a few years
later. And recently, I decided to revisit
the idea by making this cherry jewelry
36
A bureau-top beauty made with
layout-free mortising jigs
By Geoffrey Noden
chest that sits comfortably on a bureau,
and doesn’t require much wood.
Don’t be intimidated by the joinery
here. If you have a hollow chisel mortiser,
onlineEXTRAS
•
•
Tenoning Jig
Twin-blade Joinery
simply make the indexing jigs shown on • Resawing on the Tablesaw
page 38. They’ll ensure accurately located • Fitting Inset Drawers
mortises with no layout involved. Use
a tenoning jig (See onlineEXTRAS) to
saw the tenons, following the step-by-step
instructions shown. If you like, cutting
the tenons is a great opportunity to use
my twin-blade joinery technique (See
onlineEXTRAS). As for the drawer boxes,
to avoid the complexity of half-blind dove-
tails, I used through dovetails, covering
them with front overlays. However, feel
free to use different joinery if you like.
4 legs, 12 rails, and a top make the case
The front and back rails join to the legs, while the side rails join to the front and back rails. Although
all the mortises are ⅜ × ½", they are oriented vertically on the legs, and horizontally on the rails. The
rabbets on the side rails serve as drawer guides. The rabbets on the back rails serve as drawer stops.

161⁄8"
16"

⁄16"
1

TOP BACK DRAWER-BEARING RAIL 45° Chamfer

3
⁄8" thick 3
⁄4 × 3⁄4 × 14"

TOP BACK RAIL TOP SIDE RAIL

5
⁄8 × 3⁄4 × 14" 5
⁄8 × 1 × 14"

SIDE DRAWER-BEARING RAIL

⁄4 × 1 × 14"
3

FH screw
#10 × 3⁄4"
TOP FRONT RAIL ⁄8"
1
5
⁄8 × 3⁄4 × 14"

⁄8"
1

Mortise WOOD BUTTON

3
⁄8 × 1⁄2 × 1⁄2" (See p. 42)
31⁄8"

⁄8"
1
61⁄8"

Mortise
⁄8 × 1⁄2 × 1⁄2"
3

Tenons

Order of Work
LEG FRONT DRAWER-BEARING RAIL 1. Make mortising jigs
1 × 1 × 8" 3
⁄4 × 3⁄4 × 14"
2. Mortise the legs
3. Mortise the front and back rails
4. Saw the rail tenons
5. Rabbet lower rails. Groove top rails for buttons.
Rail lengths include 3⁄8 × 1⁄2 × 1⁄2"-long tenons. 6. Glue up the case
See page 43 for drawer details. 7. Make and attach the top
8. Build and fit the drawers

Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Illustrations: John Hartman April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 37
Make the mortise indexing jigs...
A hollow-chisel mortiser outfitted with a ⅜" chisel
and these indexing jigs make quick, accurate, layout-
free work of cutting all the ⅜ × ½" mortises. The
rabbet on the back of the stop allows reversing it to
shift the workpiece ⅛" in order to easily create the ½"
mortise length. As an added benefit, the jigs make
producing multiples of this project a lot easier.
Begin by making the backers and the notched bars
separately, before gluing the bars to the backers as
shown. For efficiency and accuracy when making
each pair of bars, begin with a piece of ¾ × 2⅛ × 10"
hardwood. Carefully lay out and crosscut the notches,
and then rip the piece into two. When making the
reversible stop, ensure that it fits the notches snugly.

One jig for the legs, and one for the rails
REVERSIBLE STOP PLYWOOD BACKER
3
⁄4 × 3 × 21"

Leg Mortising Jig

15⁄8"

1
⁄2"
Notch ⁄8" gap
3

11⁄2" ⁄8 × 1⁄4"
3

Rail Mortising Jig

NOTCHED BAR 13
⁄16"
⁄4 × 1 × 10"
3

Attach bars to backers.

Backer After installing a 3⁄8" hollow
chisel in your mortiser, attach
the leg mortising backer to your
hollow-chisel mortiser fence
using screws or double-faced
tape. Then glue and clamp
the leg mortising bars to the
backer, with the inner end of
each bar firmly pressed against
Leg the chisel. Repeat the bar-to-
mortising
bar backer attachment in similar
fashion for the rail mortising jig.

38
...then use them to mortise the legs...
Mill four 1 × 1 × 8" pieces for the legs, using riftsawn
stock to create relatively straight grain on all 4 faces of
each leg. Then mark the legs for orientation. (If you have
a piece of 2¼" square stock, see the neat trick on page 16
to create book-matched leg faces.) Mill at least one extra
leg for testing your machine setups. Adjust the machine
fence to locate the mortise exactly ⅛" in from the inner
edge of the leg, and then cut the mortises as shown.

Rabbet

Stop stick

The mortise 2-step. Cutting each 3⁄8 × 1⁄2" mortise using a 3⁄8" hollow chisel in your mortiser requires two cuts. Begin cutting
each mortise with the rabbet on the stop stick oriented to the right. After making the first cut, flip the stop stick end-for-end
vertically, which shifts the workpiece 1⁄8" to the left, and then make the second plunge. After mortising a pair of diagonally
opposed legs registering the stop stick in the right-hand bar, use the left-hand bar to mortise the remaining two legs.

...and the rails

Mill six ¾ × ¾ × 8" rails for
the front and back, and six
¾ × 1 × 8" rails for the sides,
along with a couple extra
pieces for machine setups.
Use straight-grained stock,
and mark the pieces for
orientation. Carefully lay out a
pair of mortises on a test rail,
insetting each ⅝" in from the
ends of the piece, and ⅛" in
from its bottom edge. Use that
rail to set up your mortiser. Mortising the rails. Switch out the leg mortising jig with the rail mortising jig, using a
Finally, cut the mortises in test piece to set the machine fence. As you did when mortising the legs, use the stop stick
the front and back rails. to register the cuts, reversing the orientation of the rabbet to elongate the mortise.

Project photos: Paul Anthony April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 39

Rail tenons require sequential cuts
Because the tenons are oriented vertically on the front and Sacrificial
back rails, but horizontally on the side rails, it’s important to backer
mark your pieces for proper orientation to avoid confusion.
Then follow the tenon cutting sequence shown, using
a tenoning jig and sawing all tenon cheeks in the order
shown before crosscutting the shoulders. Pay attention
that the tenons on each end of a piece mirror each other.

1st tenon cuts Place edge against tenon jig.

SIDE RAILS
FRONT/BACK RAIL 3⁄4 × 3⁄4" SIDE RAIL 3⁄4 × 1"

5
⁄8" 7
⁄8"

⁄8"
5

BACK RAIL

2nd tenon cuts BACK RAIL

1
⁄2" 3
⁄8" SIDE RAIL
BACK RAIL
3
⁄8"

3rd tenon cuts

SIDE RAIL

⁄2"
1 Test piece

4th tenon cuts

To prevent kickback,
40 clear away the waste in 2 cuts.

Double-cut shoulders
If you’re wondering why the 4th
tenon cuts shown below left involve
recutting the shoulders created with
the 1st cuts, it’s simply because it’s
necessary to remove the V-shaped
protrusion on the shoulders left
by a typical ATB saw blade.
Using a sacrificial backer (to prevent damage
to your tenon jig face), saw one tenon cheek
on each end of the back and front rails, and
saw two adjacent cheeks on each end of the
side rails. Set up the cut using a test piece.
Referring to the drawing
at far left, reset your rip
fence to make the two inset
intersecting cuts on the front
and back rails, and the single
inset cut on each side rail.
Reset the fence, and make the
intersecting cut on the side rails
only, as shown in the drawing.
(Note that the shoulders on the
test piece have been nipped back
to test the fit in a mortise.)
Using the miter gauge to feed workpieces,
and the rip fence as a stop, saw the
tenon shoulders, adjusting the blade
height to suit the cut. Include recutting
the shallow shoulders made with the
1st cuts to neatly square them.
The rail rabbets guide the drawers
All that’s left to finish up the rails is to rip the top and front rails to final thickness, and
saw the rabbets in the side and back rails. The rabbets in the side rails serve as tracks for
the drawers, so the rabbet shoulders should project inward about ⅓2" from the legs, as
shown below. This establishes the side reveal, or gap, between a well-fit drawer and the
legs. The rabbets in the drawer-bearing back rails serve as drawer stops. Begin by ripping
all of the top rails and front rails to ⅝" thick. Then saw the rabbets in the drawer-bearing
side and back rails as shown. For aesthetics, match the width of the raised section of
the back rails to that of the side rails. Finally, saw a ⅛ × ⅛" groove in the top front and
back rails, ¼" down from the top edge, to accept the wooden buttons that will attach the
top. If you decide to use commercial table-top clips instead, locate the groove to suit.
BACK RAIL 3⁄4 × 3⁄4" SIDE RAIL 3⁄4 × 1"
~1⁄4" (see directions) ~1⁄4" (see directions)
1
⁄8" ⁄8"
1
SIDE RAIL
The rabbet test. When
setting up to saw the 1⁄8"-
SIDE RAIL deep rabbets in the drawer-
bearing rails, begin with the
blade raised about 5⁄8". Then
cut and test-fit, creeping up
on the blade height until the
resulting rabbet shoulder
FRONT RAIL is about 1⁄32" proud of the
front leg’s inner face.
Aim for
1
⁄32" gap 41
 Fixed fence Fixed fence

Glue up in 2
stages, after pre-
finishing the parts
Now it’s time to glue up the case. But first, Square jig
Loose caul platform
rout a ⅛" roundover on the outer edges
of all the parts, and the inner corner of Front frame glue-up.
the legs below the bottom rails. Also Use a squaring jig to
round over the edges of the leg bottoms assemble the front
and the inner edges of the side rails. and back frames,
First, glue up the front and back frames orienting the inner faces
as shown. Then add the side rails. It’s downward. Apply clamp
very important that everything be as pressure against the
square as possible, so work on a dead- two fixed fences glued
flat surface, and rehearse your clamping to the jig platform to pull
procedures before reaching for the glue. the frame into square.

Pre-finishing
I usually apply several coats of finish to project parts before
assembling them. Often called pre-finishing, this technique
saves a lot of time and results in a neater job, especially at joint
intersections. Of course, any glue surfaces should be kept free of
finish. If you like, you can mask them off, but I simply avoid them.
Add the side rails. When gluing the side rails into their
mortises, place clamping panels against the previously
assembled front and back frames. After pulling everything
tight, compare diagonal measurements to ensure that the
case is dead-square. Squaring sticks work great for the job.

The top: solid wood for beauty, buttons for movement

I made the top from 3 pairs of book-matched Wood Button 1"
boards, which I resawed on my tablesaw. (See
onlineEXTRAS.) I mirrored the centermost pair, 1
⁄4"
flanking that with the next pair, and placing
3
⁄8"
the final pair on the outermost edges. The top ⁄8"
1

is attached with the grain oriented from front

to back on the case, because that’s the best 1"
Countersink hole
angle to view a book-match. You can saw the on underside
bevels at the tablesaw, feeding the workpiece for #10 screw.
upside down, leaving a 1⁄16" flat at the tip of
the bevel. Note that the top is ⅛" wider than it
is long to account for seasonal expansion and
contraction. Wooden buttons, attached with
#10 × ¾" screws, allow for that movement.

Attach the top. Wooden buttons allow

the top to move seasonally across
the grain. Apply a dab of glue to the
tongue of each middle button to keep
the top centered on the case

42
 Book-match the drawer walls for added elegance
Create great visual symmetry by book-matching the drawer
walls. Resaw enough thick stock to yield 4 pairs of ¼"-thick
book-matched drawer walls and 1 pair of ⅛"-thick overlays.
Mark the parts for orientation, thickness them, and rip each
to exactly match the height of its opening. Crosscut the backs
and fronts to exactly match the distance between the rabbet
shoulders on the side rails. Crosscut the sides to a length that
creates the same inset at the front as at the rear of the chest,
accounting for the overlays. (Note: There are no part sizes
in the drawing below because the key to properly making
and fitting drawers is to size the parts to your actual drawer
openings instead of some “ideal” measurement. For complete
instructions on making and fitting drawers, see onlineEXTRAS).
Cut the dovetail joints and bottom groove, then saw the
bottom panel to size. Pre-finish all interior faces, then glue up
the boxes. Run a bead of glue in the drawer bottom grooves to
strengthen the drawers. Cut the overlays 1⁄16" wider and longer
than the box fronts, and glue them on. Then, plane them flush
to the drawers, and plug the rear ends of the drawer grooves.
To fit the drawers, first plane the bottom edges flat,
checking for twist against a dead-flat surface. Then plane
the outer walls to create an easy-sliding, but wobble-free
fit, and plane the top edges to eliminate any binding and
to allow for seasonal expansion. Sand through 220 grit,
and apply finish. Finally, drill the holes in the drawer
fronts, turn and finish the pulls, and glue them in place.

Drawer Construction Drawer Pull Detail

Saw width of 1⁄8"- REAR WALL
deep groove to suit
Fit plug to bottom thickness.
open end of ⁄4"
1 ⁄8"
3
⁄8"
5

bottom groove.
SIDE WALL ⁄16"
5

⁄8"
5

FRONT WALL
BOTTOM
1
⁄4"-thick hardwood plywood
(Suit length and width to grooves FRONT OVERLAY
in assembled drawer walls.) 1
⁄8" thick

1
⁄4" through
hole

Note: All walls are 1⁄4" thick.

Width and length are determined
by exact size of drawer opening.

Dovetail Layout
The dovetail layout is the Fixed fences
same at the front and back.

7°
Square, flat drawers are crucial.
Base For drawers to fit and work properly, they
SIDE WALL must be glued up absolutely square on a
dead-flat surface. An assembly jig helps to
3
⁄16" ensure this result. The jig couldn’t be simpler,
with its two 90° adjacent fences glued to
Clamping cauls the base and two clamping cauls that apply
consistent pressure against the drawer walls.
1
⁄8" ⁄16"
9
⁄16"
3

April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 43

Customize
a Keyhole
with an Inlaid
Escutcheon
This decorative detail
adds something special
to any cabinetry project
By Chris Hedges

hen I receive a commission to

W
Distinctive detail. A brass keyhole
build a spice box like the one insert, surrounded by diamond-
featured in this issue (see p. shaped ivory, adds elegance to any
49), I always plan to include a custom- cabinet door or drawer front.
made escutcheon for the door’s keyhole.
Many escutcheons are designed to be
surface mounted, but an inlaid version
adds an extra measure of craftsmanship.
The escutcheon shown here consists of
a brass keyhole insert surrounded by
diamond-shaped synthetic ivory. This
embellishment can be found on many
antique case pieces and on new furniture
too. The benefits of an escutcheon are
practical as well as aesthetic. Without the
protection of a brass insert, the wood that
surrounds a keyhole will become worn
and unsightly as the key is used over time.
Before beginning work on the inlay,
install the lockset, as shown on p. 54.
You’ll also need to gather the right tools
and materials (see photo, right). The
Elforyn© material I use as an ivory sub-
stitute looks like the real thing. Although
brittle, it can be drilled, cut, and sanded.
Prime ingredients. Sources for the tools
and materials required for this inlay project
are listed in the Buyer’s Guide on p. 60.

Photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 45

 1
Install the
keyhole
insert first
I start with a brass keyhole insert and
a ⅛"-thick piece of synthetic ivory
(Elforyn) that’s about twice as large
as my planned inlay. Before tracing
the insert’s outline, scuff its outside
surface with a small file to improve the
adhesion of the epoxy. If the insert is
thicker than the ivory, plan on filing
the brass flush with the ivory surface.

2 3

Brass into ivory.

1. Working over a centerpoint on the synthetic ivory blank,
trace the outline of the keyhole insert using a sharp pencil.
2. Remove material inside your layout lines. Start by
drilling, then use a chisel and files to creep up on the
finished opening. Elforyn is brittle, not flexible like wood.
To avoid cracking the material, take tiny parings with
your chisel. Test-fit the insert, and keep refining the
opening until you get a fit that’s snug but not forced.
3. Epoxy the insert in place, then (if necessary)
file it flush with the ivory.

46
 1
Cut, scribe,
excavate,
and epoxy
The diamond shape of my inlay is
traditional, but other shapes are
also possible. Although synthetic
ivory can be cut by hand with a fine-
tooth hobby saw, I prefer to cut the
shape on my tablesaw. My technique
depends on double-stick carpet tape
and a sharp, finish-cutting blade.

2 3

4 Fine work for a perfect fit.

1. A plywood sled cut flush with the blade provides a cutting platform
and a reference edge to align each cut. Adhere double-stick tape
to the sled, then press the blank firmly in position before cutting.
2. Double-stick tape holds the inlay in place on the door frame as I scribe
its outline. Make sure the inlay is positioned to center the lockset’s
pin (where the key will fit) in the round portion of the keyhole.
3. Match the mortise depth to the insert’s thickness. After
removing most of the waste with a trim router and a
1
⁄8" straight bit, I finish the mortise with chisels.
4. When the fit is right, spread epoxy in the mortise, and tap the
inlay in place. Place waxed paper over the inlay, and clamp. When
the glue dries, sand the inlay flush with the surrounding wood.

April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 47

 Build a Classic
SPICE BOX Part 2
Complete this heirloom-quality project by building the door
and drawers, then adding hardware and back panels
By Chris Hedges

he spice box is back! The second Welcome to the home stretch. The Building a spice box is a true wood-

T (and final) part of this project fol-

lows the first installment, which
appeared in the previous issue (Feb/Mar
17, Issue #75). In Part 1, I explained how
to build the case and fill it with dividers
to create compartments for 11 drawers.
Then we covered the installation of the
cornice and base.
progressTRACKER icon you see on the
bottom corner of the pages indicates
where you are in the overall construction
working adventure—full of tasks that will
test your skill, patience, and attention to
detail. I hope this two-part article makes
sequence. On the pages ahead, I’ll cover your spice box journey enjoyable and
the construction of the doors and drawers. rewarding.
Then we’ll cover the final details: apply-
ing a multi-coat finish and installing the
back panels.

Photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Illustrations: Christopher Mills April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 49

Custom-built for a special cabinet
The spice box door is unusual for a couple
of reasons. First, the door is rabbeted to DOWEL PIN
overlay the cabinet on its left and top sides 1
⁄4" dia.
only. Secondly, the construction calls for
mortise-and-tenon joinery, combined with TOP RAIL
“mitered sticking,” a traditional alternative to 7
⁄8 × 23⁄16 × 131⁄2"
cope-and-stick construction (see p. 52). When
I make doors like this, I let the stiles run an
RIGHT STILE
inch longer than their finished length. This 7
⁄8 × 23⁄16 × 18 5⁄8"
enables me to trim the top of the stiles flush
with the rails after assembling the door.
Rather than rely on the measurements
Create stepped recess
in the drawing, it’s best to base certain for half-mortise lock.
door part measurements on the opening
2 ⁄4"
1

of your cabinet, and your sticking

profile. The math goes like this:
• Outside dimensions of finished door:
Add 3⁄16" to the opening’s width and height
to account for the rabbetted overlays.
• Rail length: Subtract 4⅜" (stile width) from VENEERED PANEL
(plywood core)
the finished width of the door. Then add 5
⁄16 × 12 × 141⁄2"
2⅜" (twice the sticking depth + twice the
tenon length) to get your finished length. 81⁄4"
• Stile length: Add 1" to the finished
height of the door as explained above.
• Panel: Allow for 1⁄16" clearance between
panel edges and bottoms of panel grooves.

Door Construction
Order of work:
1. Cut stiles & rails to size.
2. Make mortises in stiles.
3. Cut tenons in rails.
4. Rout sticking profiles on
LEFT STILE
stiles & rails (see p. 51). 7
⁄8 × 23⁄16 × 18 5⁄8"
5. Mill panel grooves—full-length
grooves in rails; groove between
BOTTOM RAIL
mortises in stiles. ⁄8 × 23⁄16 × 131⁄2"
7

6. Create mitered sticking joints (see p. 52). 2 ⁄2"

1
Tenon
7. Make panel and prefinish panel. 3
⁄8 × 11⁄2 × 1"
8. Assemble door and install dowel pins. Panel groove
5
⁄16 × 3⁄8"
9. Check door for square fit in
opening. Trim to fit if necessary.
10. Rout roundover profile on
outer edges of door.
Right stile and Left stile and
11. Rabbet left and top edge of bottom rail profile Top rail profile
door to create inset.
12. Install lock and mount door.

Rabbet All roundovers are 5⁄16" r

50 5
⁄8 × 1⁄4"
Door construction
begins with mortises
and tenons
Routing mortises and cutting tenons on the tablesaw
with a stack dado are standard door-making procedures
in my shop. If you don’t have a 1" OD guide bushing
like the one I’m using here, a different-size bushing
will work, as long as you adjust the opening in the
jig’s base. It’s smart to have some scrap rail stock on
hand before you start to cut tenons. If your scrap
piece is identical in thickness and width to your rails,
you can use this extra piece to test your shoulder-
cutting setups to ensure a fit that’s snug but not
forced. Since stile mortises have rounded ends, size
your tenons so their edges can be shaped to match.

Mortise the stiles with a jig that guides a bushing.

I plunge-rout the mortises using a 3⁄8" upcut spiral bit
surrounded by a 1" OD bushing (left). Make the jig’s base wide
enough to support the base of your router, and size the opening
to create a 11⁄2"-long mortise. Screw a fence to the jig’s base to
center the base opening over the workpiece. Plan to reach the
1" depth of the mortise in several shallow passes. To ensure
that each mortise is exactly centered, once I reach full depth
I rotate the stile in the jig and make a final, full-depth pass.

Guide tenon cuts with the fence

and miter gauge. With the stack
dado installed, I position the rip fence
to act as a stop for the end of each
rail, creating 1"-long tenons. Make
sure to back up your cuts with scrap
stock to avoid tearout. Cut the cheeks
first, making sure your tenon thickness
matches the width of your mortises.
Then make the final shoulder cuts.

progressTRACKER
April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 51
Mitered Sticking: Rout the profile, then miter the
Before router bits and shaper cutters enabled Pin joint after
cabinetmakers to mass produce cope-and-stick assembly.
doors, woodworkers perfected a stronger joinery
technique for frame-and-panel assemblies. I definitely ⁄2"
1

prefer this approach for the spice box. As shown STILE

in the drawing, mitered sticking creates a mortise-
and-tenon joint at stile-rail connections—stronger
Mortise
mechanics than you get with a coped joint. The 3
⁄8 × 1 1⁄2 × 1"
challenge with mitered sticking is to create a nice
miter joint where the inner “sticking” profiles meet.

Miter joints
RAIL

Sticking profile

Panel groove
5
⁄16 × 3⁄8"

NOTE: After door is assembled, rout roundover on outer door edges.

Then rabbet top and left sides of door for overlay.

Begin with the sticking profile. Before the

mitered sticking process can begin, the door’s
stiles and rails need to have the sticking
profile routed along inside edges. As shown
on the door rail above, the profile is a 3⁄16"-
radius roundover, with a 1⁄8"-deep shoulder.

Keys to success with

mitered sticking
If you haven’t made frame-and-panel doors with
mitered sticking, there are a few tips that will help
you get good results. First of all, prepare some
extra stile and rail stock so that you can test your
setups as well as your techniques. Take the time
to create an extra mortise-and-tenon joint so
you can complete each step in your sample joint.
This way, you’ll avoid miscutting door parts.
Pay attention to the panel grooves. You’ll need to
mill these grooves the full length of rails. But in your
stiles, panel grooves extend between mortises.
Good luck. Once you master the mitered Set up the saw. Attach an auxiliary fence to the miter gauge, and tilt the
sticking technique, it can be difficult to go blade to 45°. Using a sample sticking profile, raise the blade just high enough
back to cope-and-stick construction. for the teeth to nick the shoulder of the profile. Then use a square and sharp
pencil as shown above to mark up from the highest point on the saw kerf.

52
molding to meet in the corners

Miter the stile sticking. If stiles have been cut 1"

longer than their finished length, you can clamp a
stopblock exactly 21⁄2" away from the line you scribed
on the auxiliary fence. Butt each stile end against
the stopblock to make the miter cuts in the sticking.
You’ll make 2 miter cuts with the profile facing the Miter the rail sticking. Clamp a stopblock to the auxiliary fence for the rail tenon to
blade, and two with the profile facing the fence. butt against. This setup should create a mitered cut that ends at the tenon’s shoulder
line. Use the stopblock to align the three remaining miter cuts in your rails.

Pare for a perfect fit. Your tablesaw

Remove waste from stiles. With the tablesaw’s blade raised
to maximum height, adjust the rip fence so that only the curved
sticking profile will be cut away. Set up the cut carefully; your
goal is to create a land as smooth as if it came off the jointer.
cuts will leave a small nib of waste
that needs to be pared from the joint.
Clamp each stile securely, and do this
work with a sharp chisel that’s slightly
wider than your stock thickness.

progressTRACKER
April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 53
Rout, chisel, and drill to install the half-mortise lock
The half-mortise lock I chose for this project is inset into the interior face of the door stile. Once installed,
the lock is meant to sit flush with the wood, on the door stile’s face and edge. I do this excavation work in
several stages, roughing out the mortise with my trim router, then getting the recesses exact with chisels.
NOTE: It’s important to select a lock that will fit the door, and be the correct “hand.” Since the door’s hinges
are on the right side of the cabinet (when standing in front of the cabinet), I chose a right-handed lock.

Accommodate the edge plate. Clamp the door vertically to rough out the mortise
that will hold the lock’s edge plate flanges. Here I’m using the same 1⁄8" router bit to
creep up close to my layout lines. Make sure to clamp a broad support block flush
to the stile’s edge, as I’ve done here, to provide a good platform for the router.

Rough out the face. With a 1⁄8" straight

upcut bit in my trim router, I remove
the waste inside the layout lines. The
deeper excavation to house the lock
mechanism needs to be done in stages,
routing progressively deeper each time.

Chisel and drill. Use a chisel to finish the

mortise with straight, square sides. The
keyhole can be drilled as you’re test-fitting
the lock and paring away sharp inside
corners that prevent the lock from fitting
flush. See p. 45 for instructions on finishing
off the lock with an inlaid escutcheon.

progressTRACKER
54
Drawer construction: dovetails at every corner
The large drawers in a bureau or desk
SIDE BOTTOM Rout raised profile to make
aren’t likely to be completely removed, ⁄4" t
1
⁄4" t
1
front and side edges 1⁄8" thick.
so the joinery at the back of these
drawers will usually escape notice. But
the small drawers in this cabinet will BACK
definitely be taken out. That’s why I 1
⁄2" t
wanted dovetail joints all around. The
half tail at each drawer’s front corners
isn’t standard procedure when building
dovetailed drawers. In this case, the
half tail allows me to lower the drawer
bottom, maximizing the interior
space. The drawing only provides Groove for bottom
the thickness of drawer parts. This is
1
⁄8 × 3⁄8" Through
dovetails
because it’s best to size the front, sides
FRONT Half-blind
and back to fit the exact opening, then 7
⁄8" t dovetails
plane the completed drawer to fit.

Make tail cuts on the tablesaw.

I use a sled-type jig that’s
dedicated to making dovetail
cuts with the blade tilted to 14°.
With angled tail cuts complete,
I saw out the waste and pare
to the line. Use the completed
sides to lay out the pins in
drawer fronts and backs.

Snug and square. A nicely fitting

front, side and back assembly puts a
smile on my face and just leaves me
with a bottom to slide into place.

Rough out sockets with a router. I clamp each

drawer front vertically at a comfortable working
height, against a wide board that helps support my
trim router. Removing waste with a 1⁄8" bit leaves me
with a small amount of paring to complete the joint.
progressTRACKER
April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 55
Finishing touches: Apply several coats of
wiping varnish, then attach the back
A project like this deserves a good finish, but before you begin, make sure to drill all holes for drawer pulls, and cut
all the lap-jointed panels for the back from ¼"-thick poplar. You can dry-fit the back, but leave the panels off until
you’ve applied the last coat of finish to the cabinet. The drawer compartments are much easier to finish with the back
open. I do my final sanding with 180-grit sandpaper, paying close attention to the most visible parts of the project.
Then I wipe down the wood thoroughly and apply my favorite finish for a project like this—Waterlox Original.

Poplar boards for the back. The random-width Finish the finish. I wipe on three coats of varnish. Between coats,
boards meet with lap-joint edges. Fasten the boards I rub out the finish with #00 steel wool. The final coat is rubbed
to the rabbetted case sides with pin nails. out with #0000 steel wool, then treated to a coat of paste wax.

Time to celebrate. Completing

a classic piece like this connects
you with skilled woodworkers of
past generations, and with future
woodworkers who will admire and
study this project in years to come.
Now for the next one! (Just kidding.)

progressTRACKER
56
 Famous Furniture
Headrest
Flat Spindle
Armrest
Screw Plugs
Back Post/
Rear Leg
ne of the most celebrated woodworkers and furniture
O designers of the 20th century, Californian Sam Maloof
plied his craft from the early post-World War II era through
2009, the year of his passing. So original were his designs for
chairs, tables, and stands that the world at large coined a new
term: “Maloof style.” Sam’s furniture exhibits lean, graceful
lines, sculpted parts that seamlessly blend into each other,
and joints that evoke beauty as well as strength and durability.
The Maloof rocker shown here is by far the most iconic piece
created by this artist.
Today, many woodworkers are selling “Maloof-style” rockers,
a tribute to this single famous furniture example. But for a truly
58 Photos: Sam Maloof by Tim Rue; Mike Johnson and chair courtesy of Sam Maloof Woodworker Inc. by Schenck Images;
The Maloof
ROCKER
By Jim Harrold
fastFACTS
• After starting his woodworking business in 1949, Sam
Maloof worked for 20 years before turning a profit.
• Maloof was the first craftsman to receive a
prestigious MacArthur “genius” grant (in 1985).
• Original Sam Maloof rocking chairs can sell at auction
for up to $80,000. Today, authorized reproductions
from Maloof Woodworking, Inc. start at $19,500.
Scooped
Seat
Front Leg
Chairman of the board.
Sam posed for an early
cover of Woodcraft Magazine
with a scale model of
his famous rocker.
Rocker
authentic Maloof rocker, you’ll need to get in touch with Mike
Johnson at the Maloof workshop in Alta Loma, California.
Having studied under Sam Maloof for over 30 years, Mike has
the knowledge, skill and (last but not least) legal permission to
reproduce this furniture. Mike draws from a massive inventory
of 8/4 (2") and 16/4 (4") stock. The rockers are typically made
from black walnut, figured maple, rosewood, cherry, or zircote.
Ebony serves as an accent for screw plugs and decorative bands.
Mike relies on Sam’s original plywood templates for the chair
parts, tracing their shapes on selected stock. He bandsaws the
parts, leaving enough wood for sculpting and blending. The
scalloped seat is made from five dowel-joined pieces that are cut
Preserving Maloof’s legacy, Mike Johnson blends the rocker
into the front leg using a file and a well-trained eye.

Counterbored
pilot hole

Deck screw

Contrasting
wood plug
Curved rabbets
milled in both
sides of seat

Curved dado joint

Strength without bulk. Maloof designed a special dado

and rabbet joint to anchor the rocker’s leg to the seat.

at slight angles to create the proper curve. To make the rocker’s

graceful curved feet, 3⁄16"-thick strips are glued together over
a form. The legs attach to the seat with a unique “dado-and-
rabbet joint” that Maloof invented to maximize glue area and
mechanical strength (see drawing). The significant sculptural
work that gives the chair its signature appearance is done with
a number of hand tools–spokeshaves, scrapers, and rasps. But
air-powered sanders and grinders also come into play. Once the
chair is assembled and sculpted to final shape, Mike and his son
Steven sand it through 400 grit, finishing with an oil/poly mix
and wax. Learn more about Sam Maloof, the company today,
and his foundation at sammaloofwoodworker.com. ■

Illustration: Kelly J. Dunton April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 59

Buyer’s Guide
Hot New Tools (p. 14) Do More with Domino (p. 30)
1. Bow Products FeatherPRO Single Featherboard .............................. #162500, $29.99 1. FESTOOL Domino Joiner DF 500 Q Set with T-LOC ............................ #574332, $895

Build a Bench (p. 20) 2. Domino Cutter & Tenon Assortment Systainer ........................ prices begin at $277.00

1. Freud Upcut Spiral Router Bit, ⁄2" D, 1 ⁄8" CL, ⁄2" SH .................... #844646, $63.99
1 5 1 3. Domino XL Joiner DF 700 .......................................................... #574422, $1,310.00

2. WoodRiver Double Fluted Straight Router Bit, 3⁄4" D, 11⁄4" CL, 1⁄2" SH ..... #151188, $17.99 4. Domino Connectors System (available April 2017)...........Contact Woodcraft for pricing

3. WoodRiver Medium Shoulder Plane............................................... #154032, $149.99 5. Seneca Woodworking accessories ........................................ senecawoodworking.com

4. FastenMaster HeadLok, 27⁄8" Jewelry Chest (p. 36)

Heavy-Duty Flathead Fastener (12) .......................................The Home Depot, $11.46
1. Freud LU84M011 Circular Saw Blade 50-Tooth Combination........... #127240, $65.99
5. HIGHPOINT Tabletop Fasteners 8-piece plus screws ......................... #159301, $2.99

6. Old Fashioned Milk Paint, Salem Red ...............................................#811180, $13.99

Customize a Keyhole with an Inlaid Escutcheon (p. 45)
1. Elofryn® Synthetic Ivory ........................................................................... cuestik.com
7. Rust-Oleum Varathane Classic Clear
Oil-based Outdoor Spar Urethane, Semi-gloss, qt .......................amazon.com, $23.37 2. General Tools Swiss Pattern Needle File Set, 6 pieces ..................... #416184, $28.99

8. WATCO Teak Oil, pt ........................................................................ #206347, $13.50 3. Keyhole Liner Insert, 11⁄16 × 3⁄8" ............................................................#02U01, $5.29

4. Freud Upcut Spiral Router Bit, 1⁄8" D, 1⁄2" CL, 1⁄4" SH ......................... #828750, $21.97
Cast Resin Turning (p. 26)
Build a Classic Spice Box, Part 2 (p. 49)
1. GENERAL TOOLS Digital Moisture Meter, Model MMD4E ................#844319, $49.99
1. Freud Upcut Spiral Router Bit, 1⁄8" D, 1⁄2" CL, 1⁄4" SH ........................ #828750, $21.97
2. E-Z MIX Disposable Mixing Cup, qt ..................................................#147285A, $1.75
2. MLCS Spiral Upcut Carbide Bit, 3⁄8" CL, 1⁄2" SH .....mlcswoodworking.com, #7467, $39.95
3. Alumilite resin & dyes ............................................................................. alumilite.com
3. Right Handed Cabinet Lock ................................... horton-brasses.com, LK-11, $16.65
4. TCP Global 21⁄2 Gallon - (10 liter) Pressure Pot Paint Tank ..........amazon.com, $109.96 4. HIGHPOINT 3⁄8" Brass Knob (16 required) ...........................................#02U21, $8.50
5. Digital Gram Scale 11 lb. Capacity .............................................alumilite.com, $45.00 5. HIGHPOINT 1⁄2" Brass Knob (1 required) ..............................................#02U22, $8.79

6. QEP Super Grout Mixer ................................................. #61205 amazon.com, $12.87 6. Vertex Polished Brass Cabinet Hinge, 2 × 11⁄2", pair ........................... #16R59, $22.99

Unless otherwise listed, items above available at Woodcraft stores, at woodcraft.com, or by calling (800) 225-1153. Prices subject to change without notice.

60
WoodSense

Spotlight on
MESQUITE
A challenging wood that’s
worth the extra work
By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk

sk any East Coast woodworker the American Southwest and Mexico, plentiful, if pricey. Figure on paying
A about their experience with mes-
quite (Prosopis julifora), and it’s likely to
where the growing range spans nearly
100 million acres. Unfortunately for
$10-14 per board foot. Highly figured
stock and larger slabs can cost 2 to 3
involve a grill and a choice cut of meat. woodworkers, this doesn’t translate to an times that amount.
On the other hand, furnituremakers abundance of lumber. Although the trees Mesquite’s heartwood is a swirling
and turners throughout the Southwest are hardy once established, and propagate palette of yellows, reds, and browns, and
know that within this small, twisted, quickly, they’re slow growing and seldom the lumber is often accentuated with
thorny tree lies more than a potential surpass a 20-foot height. In particularly mineral streaks, knots, and ingrown
pile of chips. arid regions, they remain shrub-like, but bark. But these flaws tend to contribute to
Mesquite’s multi-chromatic heart- along creeks and river bottoms, they may mesquite’s appeal, standing in testimony
wood—often accentuated with dra- reach heights of 50 feet. to its hardscrabble life. Therefore, minor
matic figure resulting from its harsh defects can be left alone for visual interest
growing environment—puts this wood History in woodworking or filled with black epoxy. Larger knots,
on par with the most coveted exotics. In addition to its nationally recognized ring shakes, resin pockets, and wide bands
However, such beauty doesn’t come value in grilling, mesquite has enjoyed a of sapwood, however, should be avoided.
without a fight, as the hardness and wide range of utilitarian applications on its If you have access to freshly sawn wood,
interlocking grain of this “Texas Iron- home turf. There, this hard, heavy wood be warned: Although the heartwood is
wood” will put your hand tools and has been employed for railroad ties, fence
machinery to the test. In addition, the posts, pilings, and structural timbers. In Mesquite Quick Take
tree’s diminutive size and low yield of fact, in the late 1800s, San Antonio paved DENSITY 50 lbs./ft3
usable stock hinders its use in large the streets leading to the Alamo with
HARDNESS Very hard
projects. That said, if you’re up to its mesquite slabs. In more recent history, the
challenges, mesquite can add a bold wood has found favor in furnituremak- STABILITY High
new flavor to your woodworking. Read ing, flooring, and decorative turnings. ROT/INSECT Heartwood: High
on to learn how to select the best stock RESISTANCE Sapwood: Low
and make the most of it in your shop. How to select the best stock TEXTURE Fine
Don’t expect to find long, clear mesquite
TOXICITY Moderate
Where the wood comes from boards, as the trees start to twist and turn
Most commercially available mesquite when young, due in part to the harsh Furniture, boxes,
lumber comes from Texas. However, the growing environment. Consequently, USES turnings, gun stocks,
trees are a common sight across much of small boards and turning blanks are knife handles, bows

62
 What to watch out for

Mineral stains

One man’s trash… Sapwood

Considered by many to be an invasive
species, mesquite used to be free for
the asking and hauling. Ranchers have
spent millions trying to eradicate it from
cattle land, burning it, spraying it, and
snapping trunks with chains dragged Checks
between a pair of bulldozes. Ironically,
these attempts often encouraged fresh
growth in the newly cleared spaces. As
for burning, well, it just produced trees
more tenacious than their forbears.

durable, mesquite’s sapwood is suscep-
tible to attack by bugs, including termites
and powder post beetles. To protect your
stock, remove the bark and sapwood
before storing, and keep an eye out for
telltale bug holes.
Working mesquite in the shop
Tooling this dense, heavy lumber that is
roughly twice as hard as oak and hard
maple might seem more akin to working
brass than wood. In addition to its hard-
ness, mesquite’s figure and interlocking
grain pose a real challenge for chisels and
planes, although the wood scrapes well.
When power jointing and thicknessing,
monitor the edges of steel knives because
mesquite will quickly dull them, inviting
chipping and tearout. It’s wise to stop
shy of your final pass and then scrape
or sand to final dimension. Be aware that
sanding mesquite produces a fine dust
that can trigger an allergic reaction. To
be safe, equip your machinery with dust
collection and wear a dust mask.
Interestingly, despite its hardness when
dry, the wood can be easily bent when
green, contributing to its use by chair-
makers and bowyers. Freshly sawn or air-
dried mesquite also offers advantages to
turners and carvers because it’s easier to
work and its dimensional stability makes
it far less likely to distort or crack as the
stock acclimates.
Finishing
With patience and good stores of
sandpaper, mesquite can be brought to
a high pre-finish polish. However, this
dense wood tends to retain scratches, so
don’t skip grits, and try to avoid cross-
grain sanding. Mesquite is resistant to
some surface finishes, but it readily
accepts shellac, oils, and waxes. Of course
it’s always smart to test any finish on
scrap first. Finally, expect the wood to
darken as it ages. ■

Burl

Moisture matters.
Turning dry mesquite
is dusty and tough
on tools. Seek out
freshly sawn wood for a more
pleasant turning experience.

Sample Photos: Ralph Lee Anderson; Bowl Photo: Merle Olson April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 63
 Ad Index
Adhesives
Satellite City .................... caglue.com...............................70
Bits, Blades, & Cutters
Forrest Mfg...................... forrestblades.com .....................10
Freud .............................. woodcraft.com/Freud ............... IFC
Whiteside Machine........... whitesiderouterbits.com.............61
Clamps and Hold-downs
Blokkz ............................. blokkz.com ...............................66
Bow Products .................. featherpro.com .........................10
CNC
Digital Wood Carver.......... digitalwoodcarver.com ...............66
Next Wave Automation...... nextwaveautomation.com ..........11
Dust Collection
American Fabric Filter ...... americanfabricfilter.com ............60
Oneida ............................ oneida-air.com ....................9 & 71
Finishing
Howard ........................... howardproducts.com.................59
Rust-Oleum ..................... rustoleum.com ..........................64
Touch-Up Solutions .......... touchupsolutions.com ...............66
Hand Tools
Thomas Flinn & Co........... flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk ............59
64
Hardware
Lee Valley ........................ leevalley.com ............................35
National Hardware ........... natman.com .............................66
Measuring & Marking
Starrett............................ starrett.com ..............................19
Moisture Meters
Wagner Meters ................ wagnermeters.com .....................9
Power Carving
King Arthur’s Tools ........... katools.com ..............................16
Power Tool Accessories
Mirka .............................. mirkaderos.com ........................69
PS Wood ......................... pswood.com .............................67
Rohr Studios .................... ejrohr.com ................................67
SawStop.......................... sawstop.com/upgrade .................5
Power Tools
Grizzly ............................. grizzly.com................................25
Harvey Machinery ............ harveymachinery.com ...............15
Laguna Tools ................... lagunatools.com..................... OBC
Rikon .............................. rikontools.com .........................IBC
SuperMax ........................ supermaxtools.com ...................14
Teknatool......................... teknatool.com .............................7
Triton .............................. tritontools.com ............................1
Woodcraft Supply ............. woodcraft.com ..........................44
Sawmills
Norwood.......................... norwoodsawmills.com ...............18
School/Instruction
The American Woodshop .. wbgu.org/americanwoodshop ....19
CT Valley School of WW .... schoolofwoodworking.com.........60
The Great Courses ........... thegreatcourses.com/4craft .......65
Woodcraft Magazine ........ woodcraftmagazine.com ............67
Turning Supplies
Berea Hardwoods............. woodcraft.com ..........................68
Carter.............................. carterproducts.com ...................48
Fred Wissen Designs ........ ptownsubbie.com......................66
Ring Master ..................... ringmasterlathe.com .................66
Robert Sorby.................... robert-sorby.co.uk .....................17
Wood & Veneers
Cook Woods .................... cookwoods.com ........................19
Woodfinder ...................... woodfinder.com ........................67
Woodworking Supplies
Brand First....................... brand-first.com .........................66
Harbor Freight.................. harborfreight.com .....................12
Tanos .............................. woodcraft.com ..........................70
Woodcraft Franchise ........ woodcraftfranchise.com ............57
Woodcraft Supply ............. woodcraft.com ..........................72
The Market

66
 Vic Lombard
Advertise in The Market phone: (304) 865-5262
email: Vic_Lombard@woodcraftmagazine.com

April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 67

Expert Answers
O1 vs. A2 steel
Many tool manufacturers
list the type of steel used in their
chisels and blades. What do
these abbreviations mean, and
how might they affect wood-
working?
Need an expert answer?
Email us at
editor@woodcraftmagazine.com,
and put EXPERT ANSWERS
in the subject line. Or mail
your query to: Woodcraft
Magazine EXPERT ANSWERS;
P.O. Box 7020, Parkersburg,
WV 26102-7020. We’ll do
our best to find the expert
and provide the answer.
68
“Tool Steel” refers to a class of steels
that are metallurgically very “clean” and
fall within strict limits for alloy proportions.
O1 is a simple high carbon steel with a
pinch (1.1%) of manganese. The manganese
allows the steel to harden with an oil quench
(the “O” in O1 stands for “oil”). Oil removes
heat more slowly than water, reducing the
thermal shock that occurs when orange-hot
steel is plunged into water, minimizing the
risk of cracking or distortion. The advantage
to this simple alloy is that the hardened grain
structure is extremely fine. This allows blades
to be honed to the sharpest possible edge.
A2 steel contains additional components:
5% chromium and 1.1% molybdenum. The
add-ins allow it to quench in still air (the “A”
stands for “Air”) to reduce thermal shock. In
addition, the chromium improves toughness
and abrasion resistance, but there’s a
tradeoff. During heat treatment, chromium
and carbon combine to form chromium
carbides—tough, hard particles. While these
carbides are the primary contributors to
A2’s celebrated edge retention, the particles
can “pop out” under the stress of honing or
cutting and leave a small gap in the edge.
(To strengthen the edge, I recommend
a larger bevel angle for A2 than
I would for O1. For an A2 chisel
or plane iron, try 30° to 33°.)
The choice of steel is up to you, but with
Hock Blades, O1 still outsells A2. Even
though A2 offers a real improvement in
edge retention I think woodworkers prefer
O1 because the steel is easier to sharpen and
possesses the ability to achieve sharper edge.
—Ron Hock, president, Hock Tools
Expert Answers
Brush cleaning basics
I just invested $25 on a pre-
mium Black Dog paint brush.
What do I need to do to protect
my investment? I can’t afford
to trash it after its first day on
the job.
STEP 1: Rinse and comb.
70
Cleaning a brush is quick and easy,
and ensures that it will be your painting
partner for years to come. To clean chalk
paint, or any latex, start with a warm
water rinse. Hold your brush—bristles
down—under a stream of water. Next, use
a brush comb and gently comb through
the bristles to free trapped paint. Keep
the bristles pointed down throughout the
cleaning process to prevent water and
paint particles from working their way
up and under and damaging the brush.
Next, squeeze a dab of bleach-free
detergent (bleach dries out the bristles)
in your hand and work it into the bristles
using a circular motion. Continue combing
STEP 2: Lather, rinse, comb.
Brush comb: The secret
to a truly clean brush.
and rinsing until the water runs clear
and suds-free. To keep my brushes in
tip-top shape, I’ll often work a drop
of inexpensive hair conditioner into
the bristles, and then rinse it out.
Finally, let the brush air-dry. To
avoid kinking the bristles, I hang my
brushes from hooks over my sink.
Photos: Amy Pearman
Never toss brushes in the freezer!
Freezing traps paints in the bristles,
potentially damaging the bristles or
ferrule, and may alter the consistency of
paint. Defrosting a frozen brush takes
longer than this cleaning process. ■
—Susan Hudson, Black Dog Salvage
STEP 3: Hang and dry.
April/May 2017 | woodcraftmagazine.com 71