Garment Production Systems

Garment Sewing Production

Systems
 Garment Sewing Production Systems
An apparel production system is an integration of materials handling,
production processes, personnel, and equipments that direct workflow
and generate finished products.
In simple a ‘garment production system’ is a way how fabric is being
converted into garment in a manufacturing system.
Production systems are named according to the various factors, like-
 Number of machine are used to make a garment,
 Machines layout,
 Total number of operators or tailors involved to sew a
complete garment ,
 Number of pieces moving in a line during making a
garment etc.

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 Garment Sewing Production Systems

As tailor shops are not able meet the volume and supply across
the world. Mostly used production systems are as following –

Individual system/Make through

Whole garment system
Progressive bundle systems
Modular production system (Section production system,
Group System)
Overhead production system (UPS, One piece flow system)
Mass-customization Production system

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 Individual system/Make through
In this system the entire garment operation process is done by
an individual. From cutting to packing the individual person
performs the entire job.
With this production system the operator would be given a
bundle of cut work and would proceed to sew it according to his or
her own method of work.
Labour for this system must be highly skilled and versatile, a
combination which is becoming exceedingly rare and increasingly
expensive.
This type of system is effective when a very large variety of
garments have to be produced in extremely small quantities.
A typical application would be in the sewing room of a boutique,
which produces its own merchandise.
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 Whole garment system
There are two types of whole garment production systems:
 (1) Complete whole garment and
 (2) Departmental whole garment.
In the Complete whole garment system an individual makes the
entire garment from cutting the cloth to sewing and pressing the
garment. The garment is ready for dispatch once the operator
completes the final operation.
This type of system is used in few places, which are engaged in
custom-whole sale; they are normally high priced and exclusively
made for a particular customer. They are limited in number and
distribution; normally about 10–20 garments are made.

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 Whole garment system
The departmental whole garment system is also used by custom
wholesale manufacturers as well as high price or better dress
manufacturers. In the departmental whole garment system one
individual does all the work with the equipment allocated to a
department.
For example one person does all the cutting work in cutting
department, second person does all the sewing work in sewing
department, third person does the pressing and packing work.
The workers in this system may use more than one equipment to
complete his/her job.

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 Individual system/Make
through/Whole garment system
Advantages
This system is more effective when a very large variety of garments
have to be produced in extremely small quantities..
Operator will be specialized in his own working area.
The work in progress (WIP) is reduced, at a time one cut garment to
one operator and so the amount as inventory is reduced.
Disadvantages
Highly skilled labours are used, so the cost of labour is high.
The operator is more concerned on the number of pieces finished
rather than the quality of work.
Productivity is less due to lack of specialization.
For long run/bulk quantity of same style is not effective in this
system.
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 Garment Production System

The choice of best apparel production system depends

on the Product, the Policies of the Company and the
capacities of manpower.

There are basically three Production systems are

practiced in bulk apparel manufacturing:
 Progressive Bundle System
 Unit Production System
 Modular Production System

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 Definition
 Progressive bundle system
– A specific number of pieces are tied and travel
together throughout the process.
 Modular System
– A group of skilled people is assigned a task to
complete without any external aid.
 Unit production system (UPS)
– All the pieces of a garment move together.

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Progressive Bundle System

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 Progressive Bundle System (PBS)
Also Called Progressive bundle synchro-straight line
system –batch system and Traditional Production system.
Garments are received in the form of bundles in sewing
department and each operator performs one operation to all
pieces in one bundle and sends it to the next operation.
The bundle of garment parts move from operation to
operation.
Widely used by apparel manufacturers (80% )for several
decades and still today.

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 Advantages of PBS
Labor of all levels ie unskilled, skilled, semi skilled labors are
involved. Small simple operations.
Quantity of each operation is checked during every single
operation thus quality is good.
Due to bundle system, less chance of lot mix-up, shade
variation, size variation etc.
Bundle tracking is possible, so identifying and solving
problems become easy.
Effective production control system and Quality control
system.
High WIP make the system stable in case of the breakdown,
absenteeism and balancing of line, changing of style can be easily
managed because of the buffer.
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 Dis-advantages of PBS

Line balancing is difficult and need effective supervision.

Increase in WIP in each section increases the inventory cost.
Variety of styles and less quantity is not effective in this
system.
Proper planning is required for each style, each batch as
style changing is time consuming.
Improper planning causes labour turnover, poor quality,
less production, etc.

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 PBS Workflow
Bundles consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific
operation (e.g an operation bundle for pocket setting might
include shirt fronts and pockets to be stitched together.
Some firms operate with a standard bundle size, while other
vary bundle sizes acc. to size of pieces in bundle and operation to b
completed.
Bundles are assembled in the cutting room, where cut parts are
matched up with corresponding parts and bundle tickets.
Workers (labour) transport and move Bundles of cut parts to
sewing room via trollies.
Operator scheduled to complete the operation and perform
same operation on all pieces in the bundle, retie the bundle,
remove Bundle ticket and move bundle for next operation.
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Modular Production System

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 Modular Production System
A Modular Production System is a contained, manageable
work unit that includes an empowered work team, equipment
and work to be executed.
The number of teams in a plant varies with the size and needs
of the firm and product line.
Usually there are 4-15 labors in one team depending upon the
type of garment to be stitched and skills of labor.
Teams may be used to perform all the operations (whole
garment production) or certain portion of assembly operations.
Team is responsible fro maintaining a smooth work flow,
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meeting production goals, quality level.
 Modular Production System

The sewing room would have a number of sections, each containing

multitalented operators capable of performing all the operations required for a
specific component.
The sections shown in Figure are built according to the average garment
produced, and include:

• Collar preparation
• Sleeve preparation
• Front preparation
• Back preparation
• Assembling operations (closing, setting collars and sleeves, etc.)•
• Finishing operations (buttonholes, blind-stitching, etc.)

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 Advantages of MPS
As the labour of all levels, i.e. semi-skilled, skilled, trainee, can be used in this
system, the labour cost is less compared to individual system.
Fast throughput times; Productivity is higher compare to individual system,
because of use of special machine and all types of labour.
High Flexibility; This system is very efficient for producing a variety of styles
in reasonable quantities.
Consistency in production; Absenteeism and machine breakdown problems
will not cause serious problems.
Low wastages as Team work and Empowered employees of the system
improve quality.
Automation and specialization can be done. Team members develop an
interdependency to improve the process and accomplish their goals.
A worker in a team can perform Multiple functions depending upon his
skills (Multi-skills).
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 Dis-advantages of MPS
A high capital investment in equipment.
High investment in initial training.
No compatibility between team members can cause problems thus
loss in production.
Dependency on the Team for whole Production as all the
operators are involved in the work to maintain the quality of
garment.
Even though productivity is high still the highly skilled operators
required to perform simple operation within the section.
Group of people are involved in each section, so we require more
WIP which increases the inventory cost.
As this is not a bundling system, there are more chances of shade
and size variation; hence quality
Chowdhuryand production
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Unit Production System

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 Unit Production System (UPS)
A Unit Production System is a type of layout that uses an
overhead transporter system to move garment components from
work station to work station for assembly.
In UPS, there are hangers. One hanger have multiple clips
containing all parts of the single garment.
All parts for the single garment are advanced through stitching
line together by means of hanging carrier that moves along an
overhead conveyor.
Hanging carrier can be moved manually by the operator using
button after completion of single operation or By computerized
system that move the conveyor after a specific fed throughput time.

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 UPS
Load all the pieces of single garment in a product
carrier.
The product carrier with the pieces will be routed
through the different operation steps.
At every machine/operation the patented chain will
position the product ideally.
Completed the product arrives to an unloading station.
The empty product carrier returns to the loading station.

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 Advantages of UPS
Bundle Handling completely eliminated and the time involved in
the pick-up and disposal is reduced to minimum so Productivity
increased and Throughput time can be drastically reduced.
 Output is automatically recorded, eliminates the operator to
register the work.
The computerized system automatically balance the work
between stations.
Improved lead times-less work in process.
Improved space utilization (more machines can be adjusted)
Up to 40 styles can be produced simultaneously on one system.

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 Dis-advantages of UPS
Unit Production system requires high investment.
Proper planning is required to be effective.
Highly expensive-buying equipment and cost of
installing.
Specialized training for the system.
The payback period of the investment takes long time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQ0Q9C06qRI&t=
256s

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Each system requires different types of:
• Management philosophy
• Material handling arrangement
• Floor layout
• Employee training
• Companies may combine the systems or use only one
depending on their need.

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Comparison among PBS, MPS & UPS
Issues PBS MPS UPS

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 Comparison among PBS & UPS
Issues Progressive Bundle System (PBS) Unit Production System (UPS)

Transportation-Manual transportation, many times helper are hired for this
bundle transportation job.
-Operators stop their work to fetch bundles.
-Less effective in terms of production management. Resulted
long response time.
Through put -Compare to UPS, through put time longer in PBS. How much
time long will depend on the bundle size and no. of bundles kept
in between two operators.
Direct Labour - Direct labour content is high because usually operator does
content tying and untying of bundles, positioning components, pulling
the bundle ticket and handling of work pieces.
-In this system an automated mechanical system carries
pieces to each work stations.
-Easier pick up and dispose at each work station. Resulted
quick response time
-Through put time in UPS is less compare to PBS. But it is
not the minimum time as in this system there is WIP in
between two operators.
-Direct labour content is less than PBS because an operator
only sews the garment part rather than other tasks. In this
system garment parts are held by the over head hanger, so
less handling of garment components.

WIP level -In PBS generally operators are asked to sew as much pieces -Less WIP in between operators. As workstation has limit
as they can without considering back and front operators. of holding no. of hangers. Also after completion of
This resulted piling up of work in the operations with higher operation hangers are transported to the next operation
work content. automatically.

Cutting work -As a result of High Work In Process (WIP) is required by -Lower WIP results in less cutting works. A balanced flow
requirement sewing section, cutting sections are required to perform 60- of material established in between cutting and sewing line.
70% more than actual production can handle.

Inventory Level -Due high WIP and higher cutting, fabrics and trims need to -Less inventory for fabric and trims.
stock in advance
Excess labour - Usually in PBS needs more overtime works, repair work due -Plant with UPS system needs less overtime as planning is
requirement to some unfinished operations. easy in this manufacturing system.

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