Modern Motorcycle Mechanics

Modern
Motorcycle
Mechanics
Fourth Edition
By
J. B. NICHOLSON
COPYRIGHTED
tr'irst Edition - - - - 7942

Second Edition ---1945
Third Edition ----1948
FourthEdition---1953
By
J. B. NICIIOLSON
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Canada
Published by
NICHOLSON BROT}IERS
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Canada
Printed in Canada
'orewLrd
_ - \he
main objectiue oJ this Fourth Editian oJ Modern Motorcycle
Mechanics is to prolide easily understaod seriicing inlormatioi on
all motorcycles in general use in North Ameri,ca.
This new edition brings the Modern Motorcycle Mechdnics series
up to date. Colerage oJ all popular models introduced since the thiril
editinn uas published, through ta 1953, has been adited. Reaisinn
ol seniring mdteridl on earlier models has been eJJected, uith the
objectile oJ improdng anil clariJying seruicing proielure.
The layout oJ this editian Jollows that oJ the preuious rssue. As
an introduction, an inJormatiue reuiew oJ motircycle design and
detailed inJormation on operdting proceduies is proiided. A"chapter
on gerurdl mdintendnce applicable n all makei is Jolloweil by iotw
plete seroicing chapters , logically sectioned cotering-all Englisi makes
,
in wide use on this antinent.
A sEdrdte 9lrgbter deals with recond,itioning procedure gencrdlly
applicable to all English type machines, and iomponent units com.
mon to oa,riaus mdkes.
Seroicing oJ the popular Ameriran makes is next dealt with in
two complete chapters, sectiotud to Jacilitate locatian oJ required
Wormation. -The coterage in these chapters ranges Jrim general
adjustments through to complete ooerhaul-oJ all coiponents.
TheJinal chapters, Troubk Tracing, Machine Shop practice, and
^_
Clcarances and Measurement Equilaients, wilt be Jound appliabte
to the general seruiring oJ all makes.
Readers are urged to reuiew the summary o.f contents which will
quickly_reueal the
_general .layout oJ inJormatiLn, and reJer to this
regularly as an aid to enabling quick loiatian oJ disired;njormafion
. The earlier e_d.itions o;f Modern Motorcycle Mechanics exper-

i1rrcel yfg.uoutdble reception throughout the-motorcycle uorld. ihis
Fourth Editinn been prepared to meet an extensiue dc*and jo,, i
.has
new issue. It is presented with the hope that it witt beJound i con.
tenipnt source, oJ interesting and useJul inJormatiai
Jor motor.
cyclists, and those associated with the- motoicycte tradi and sport
eterywhere.
SUMMARY of CONTENTS
Chapte! Page No.
1.-I'IOTOECYCLING ...,.....i.............. 13
2;-MODEBN i!IOTOBCYCLE DESIGN

Sections:
(1) The Motorcycle Industry ..-.....,.........................:............. 19
(2) Features of Motoreycle Design
(a) Types of Motorcycle Motors .. 20
(b) Cylinder Layouts .. 24
(e) General Characteristics of Motorcycle Motors .. 30
(d) General X'eatures of Motorcycle Desiglr ', 39
to., British Models ........... .. .............. .. 57
i4) America^n Models .. 78
i5) Selecting a Suitable Model ......,.... .. 86
3.-MOTORCYCLE OP]uN,ATION
Sections:
(1) Preliminary Operating fnstructions 90
t2) Operati4g Procedures
(a) B.S.A. 725 c.c. .......................... 93
(b) B.S.A. 250 c.c. . .......... ....... 94
(c) 350-500 c.c. Singles 96
(d) Indian "V" Twins 99
(e) Harley-Davidson 45" Twin .... L01
if ) Triumph Twin ......... . ............ . 104
(g) Villiers 125-200 c.c. .. ....... ... ... . . .. 106
(3) Acquiring Riding Skill .............. . ... 107
(4) Driving a Sidecar Outfit........... ..... 110
(5) Safety Hints..... . 111
4.-MOTORCYCLE DTAINTENANCE
Sections:
(1) Putting a Nerv Model Into Service 113
(2) Maintenance Systems 116
(3) Average Maintenance Requirements .................... 118
(4) Lubrication ...... ........ 722
(5) Spartr Plugs ..... ...., 131
(6) Ignition Systems 135
i7) Batteries, Generators and Lighting Systems L5l
{8) General Adjustments 740
(9) Chain Adjustments 744
i10) Carburetors and Aircleaners 148
(11) Tire Maintenance 153
(12) Storage Servicing 158
Chaptet PaBo No.
5.-ARIEL SEEVICING
Sections:
(1) Lubrication ................ 161
(2) Clearances and Settings ........... 171
(3) Motor Servicing
(a) Single Cylinder Motors ..... llo
(b) Twin Motor .......... 178
(c) 1937-1952 Ariel 1000 c.c. I'our Motors 185
(4) Solex Carburetors ............. 203
(5) Ignition Timing
206
(b) Twins Magneto Timing 208
(c) Four lg:rition Systems and Timing 209
(6) Gearbox, Clutches and Chains 272
(7) E orks, I-rame and Wheels 275
6.-B.5.A. SER,VICING
Sections:
(1) Lubrication 219
{2) Clearances and Settings 224
(3) Motor Servicing
(a) 725 c.c. Motor 226
(b) 250 c.c. S.V. and O.H.V. Motors 234
(c) 350 c.c. and 500 c.c. O.H.V. Single Motors ... .. .. ............ tao
(d) 500 c.c. and 650 c.c. O.H.V. Twin Motors 247
(4) Ignition Timing
(a) 725 c.c. ................
(b) 250 c.c. S.V. and O.H.V. 248
(c) 350 c.c.-500 c.c. Singles 249
(d) 500 c.c. and 650 c.c. Twins ....... .. .. . : .. . . ...... 250
(6) F'orks, tr'rame and Wheels 26+
7.-DOUGLAS SERVICING
Sections:
(1) Lubrication ................ 270
(2) Clearances and Settings 271
(3) Motor Servicing 272
(4) fgnition Timing 275
(5) Gearbox and Clutch 276
(6) Forks, I'rame and lvheels
8.-MATCHLESS AND A.J.S. SERVICING

Sections:
(1) I-ubrication ......,......... 280
(3) Motor Servicing
(a) 350 c.c.-500 c.c. O.H.V. Singles 286
(b) 500 c.c. O.H.V. Twin Models 291,
Chapter Page No.
8.-MATCHr.rrSS AND A.J.S. SERVICING-(Continued)
(4) Ienition Timing ... .... 294
(5) Gearbox, Clutches and Chains ...... 295
(6) F'orks, Frames and Wheels .......... 296
g._NORTON SERVICING
Sections:
(1) Lubrication 301
(2) Clearances and Settings ...................,.................. :....... 303
(3) Motor Servicing
(a) O.H.V. and S.{. Single Motors 304
(b) 500 c.c. O.EI.V. Twin ............. 309
(4) Ignition Timing 372
(5) Gearbox, Clutch and Chains 314
(6) E'orks, tr'rame €,nd Wheels 347
1o.-PANTHEB SERVICING
Seetions:
(1) Lubrication ................
(2) Clearances and ,Settings
(6) tr''orks, I'rame and Wheels
11.-ROYAL ENFIELD SERVICING

Sections:
(1) Lubrication ooI
(3) Motor Servicing
(a) 725 c.c. 2-Stroke 347
(b) 350 and 500 c.c. O.H.V. Single Motors .. 342
(c) 500 c.c. O.H.V. Twin ........,.... 345
(6) E'orks, E'rame and Wheels 350
12,-SUNBEAM SEBVICING
Sections:
(1) Lubrication ................
(5) Gearbox, Clutch and Rear Drive ... ........ 361
(6) Forks, Frame and Wheels 362
Chapte! Pago No.
13.-TR,IUMPH SEEVICING
. Sections:
(1)
(2) Clearanees and Settings ................ 370
(3) Motor Parts Examination and Replacements .......................... 371
(4) 500 c.c,-650 e.c. Twin Motor Servicing ...........................;..'....... 375
(5) 350 c.c. Twin Motor Servicing .... 381
(6) Triumph Single Motor Servicing ........................ 386
(7) Ig'nition Timing ........ 388
(8) Gearbox,C1utchandChairrs..'1...'...'..'..'....'.
(e) ftre S.U. Carburetor ..................... 397
(10) E'orks, Frame andWheels ............ 401
Triumph Spriqg Rear Wheel .............:.......... . .-..-- 4Og
14.-VELOCETTE SERVICING
Sections:
(1) Lubrication ............. . . 416
(3) Motor Servicing
(a) 149-192 c.c. Twins 419
(b) O.H.V. Singie Motor . .. . . 419
(5) Forks, Frame and Wheels ............ 127
Is.-I/INCENT SERVICING
Sections:
(1)Lubrication.. 122
(2) Clearances and Settings ............. . 423
tB) Motor Servicing ... +za
(5) Gearbox, Clutch and Chains 126
1G.-IiECONDITIONING AND SER,VICING BR,ITISH M'ODELS

Sections:
(1) Motor Servicing
(a) Average Servicing: Requirements................................... . 428
(b) Parts Examination and Replacements ... ..... 430
(c) Motor Servicing trfethods +oz
(d) Top Motor Overhaul Procedure .................... . 134
(e) Crankcase Servicing ... ...... .. 438
(f) Con-rod Big-end Servicing 447
(2) Lubrication Systems and Oil Pumps .. . .... 414
(3) Amal Carburetors
(a) Amal Carburetor Types ........... . +45
(b) AmaI Needle Jet Carburetor Adjustments ............. .. .. 446
(c) Cieaning the Amai Needle Jet Carburetor ..... ...... 419
(d) Amal 2-Jet and Needle Jet Lightweight Carburetors .... 453
Chapter Page No.
1G.-RECONDITIONING AND SERVICING BRITISII MODELS-
(Continued)
(g) Automatic Advance Units ............ ....... 465

(5) Generators .............. ....................... 466
(6) Lucas Voltage Regulators ... ........ 472
(7) Coil Ignition Systems . ...... 476
(8) Electrical Wiring . .. 477
(9) Burman Gearboxes . . .... 480
(10) Clutches.. .... .... . .... ... .... 488
(11) Chains and Sprockets ... ................. .. ....................,. 492
(12) Frames and Forks . ......... 497
(13) Wheels Hub Bearings Brakes ... 500
- ,...............-
(14) Refinishing ............... 504
(15) Control Cables and Accessories .,.............. ........... 505
(16) Side Cars .......... ...... 509
(17) Road Testing and Final Adjustments ............. 510
(18) English Screw Threads and Tool Sizes .............. 51.z
17.-VILLIERS TWO-STROKE ENGINDS

Sections:
11) Lubrication . ........... ...... .., 514
(2) Maintenance ... .. ........ ...................... 516
(3) Clearances and Settings . .. 518
(4) Villiers Engine Servicing
(a) Top Overhaui .... 519
(.b) 725 c.c. MK gD Unit ...... ....... 522
(c) 725 c.c. (10D) and 200 c.c. (6E) Units ......... ............ ......... 525
(d) Separate Unit En8'ines ......... 533
(e) 1X' and 2F 98 c.c. Units .......... 537
(f ) Junior Deluxe g8 c.c. Power Bike Engines .......... 538
(5) Villiers Carburetors ... . 548
(6) The Villiers !'lyrvheel Magneto ....................... .. 548
(7) Viiliers Lighting Systems ...... bbO
(8) Villiers Trouble Tracing' ................ 552
18.-IIAR,LEY-DAVIDSON SERVICING
Sections:
(2) Clearances and Settings ,......,........5b9

(3) Motor Servicing
(a) 1937-1951 Side Valve Twins ..... .... . .. .. 560
(b) 1938-1952 O.H.V. T\rins .......... ................... . b?B
(c) 1930-1936 S.V. Twins and 1926-1934 .Singles .................. b7b
Ctrapter Pag€ No.
18.-HAB,LEY-DAVIDSON SEBVICING-(Continued)
(d) 1929 and Earlier 61" and 74,, Twins 577
(e) 125 c.c. Two-Stroke Motors 578
(5) Carburetor Servicing 581
(7) Electrical Systems 592
1g.-INDIAN SERVICING
Sections:
(1) Lubrication ................604
(2) Clearances and Setting's ................610
(3) "V" Twin Motor Servicing
(a) Top Overhaul 611
(b) Motor Removal 677
(c) Separating Motor X'rom Gearbox 618
(d) Crankcase Servicing 619
(5) Carburetor Servicing 628
(6) Gearbox and Ctutch Servicing 631
(7) Electrical System 638
(9) Side Car Service 646
2o.-TROUBLE TBACING CHARTS

Sections:
(1) Motor, Ignition, Carburetor and Lubrication Troubles ........ 6.17
(2) Gearbox and Clutch Trouble ...... . 651
(3) Eiectrical Trouble . . 652
(4) Controls and Adjustments .............. .... 652
21.-MOTOR,CYCLE MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE ...,,.,..... ,.., 653
22.-CLEARANCES AND MEASUR,EMENT EQUIVALENTS

Sections:
(1) Clearance Specifications .................. ..........,.......... 666
(2) Millimeter-Inch-Equivalents .. . 620
23.-SPEED TUNING
Sections:
(1) Speed Tuning Considerations .............. .. . ... .. . 671
(2) Tuning Details ..... . .. 6iz
CHAPTER, ONE
MOTORCYCLI|YG
now been a half-century of motorcycling' During this

' lll 'perioO, ahas
filT\HERE
progressive inerease in motorcycle popqlarity has generally
lll iaten ptace. ffre popularity of motorcyling, however, varies greatly
throughout the 'world, and maiy factors appear responsible. Amongst
these are climatic, economic, road, and' traffic conditions'
The use of motorcycles can be generally broken down into three main
groupsr transportation, sport or pleasure riding, a,nd commercial use.
Transportation of a "ride to work" nature forms the largest use of

motorcycles in most parts of the world, with the notable exception of the
If.S.A., where low cost automobile travel and traffic factors minimize the
popularity of the motorcycle in this field.
Sport and pleasure riding provide the next largest general use of
motorcycles. This applies particularly to the U'S.A., where many motor-
cyclisti have an automobile to fill their main travel requirements, and use
their motorcycles chiefly for pleasure riding.
In commercial use, motorcycles serve Police, Military' and business
functions. F'or police traffic patrol work, motoreycles are serving most
efficiently in all parts of the wortd, There is also notable military use of
motorcycles in communications and traffic control, In the commercial
field, motorcyeles are most successfully used for messeng'er service and
light delivery work where, for convenience and economy of operation, they
have no equal.
Motorcycle raci4g and various competitions attract much interest in

many parts of the world. Just what the future holds for this form of motor-
cycle activity is uncertain. It does seem that there will be a worthwhile
trend towards replacing certain types of motorcycle racing events such
as dirt track riding, and races over unfavorable and dusty surface conditions,
which involve quite undesirable hazards, with other forms of motorcycle
sporting activity that can provide just as much interest to participants
and spectators, without undue hazards.
Warm and relatively dry clima.tes are most favorai:le to motorcycling.

Although some efforts towards providing better weather protection for the
motorcycle rider have been made, the motorcyclist remains relatively
exposed to the elements. Although there are limitations as to the extent
to which weather protection can be provided, these have by no means been
reached yet, and further developments in this connection should increase
the appeal of motorcycles to many' It is worthy of note that motorcycling
does still achieve a fair measure of, popularity, even in areas where climatic
conditions are unfavorable. Ecohomic considerations are no doubt a con-
tributing factor, as motorcycling has no equal for travel econorny.
t4 MOTORCYCLING
Road conditions in some countries have been unfavorable to motorcycle

travel in past years, but a general improvement in highways almost every-
where is relieving this condition. Poor road surfaces need no longer be a
deterent to motorcycling as in the past. The development of teleseopic
forks, with hydraulie control, and the general availability of rear.wheel
springing have now provided a standard of riding comfort, that even
on very rough roads, is highly satisfactory and compares favorably with
that provided by most automobiles. The disadvantages of exposure [o dust
on unsurfaced roads vrhen dry, and the slipperiness when wet, are factors
that remain unfavorable to motorcycling.
Traffic density appears to be a factor affecting motorcycle popularity
in the U.S.A. The heavy motor traffic in many of the larger U.S. cities
seems to be minimizing the use of motorcycles in down town areas. The
hazard, factor cannot be ignored, although this is to a great measure con-
trolled by the operator.
The convenience and economy of the motorcycle are its chief attributes.
rndependence of bus and train schedules and exceedingly low cost of travel
are attractions that should appeal to a great many more individuals than
are presently using motorcycles for regular travel.
As a hobby for the mechanically inclined, motorcycling has no equal.
The lack of adequate established servicing faeilities in a great many areas
rnakes "rider maintenance" a necessity. Motorcycles are easily strviced
and the maintenance and overhaul of their motorcycles provides a source
of great mechanical interest to a substantial portion of motorcycle en-
thusiasts everyr,vhere.
. Motorcycling safely is somethiqg that should concern everyone asso-
ciated with motorcycles. Most accidents are directly due to carelessness.
An intelligently handled motorcycle is much saf-er than many other
-
methods of transportation. New motorcyclists, and others inter6sted in
riding more safely, are referred to the chapter, "Motorcycle operation.,,
Motorcycling provides many attractions; a sport of many pleasures,
travel opportunities, mechanical interests, and the utmost in trinsportation
economy.
MODERN MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 15
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CHAFIER TWO
MODERI\ MOTORCYCLE DESIGIY

Section 1
THE MCITOECYCLE INDUSTRY

The motorcycle industry has, for many years, been without equal in
the mechanical field for the variety of makes, models, and varying' designs
produced. A very substantial amount of desig:n development work has been
undertaken by the industry as a whole. In relation to the total motorcycle
production, the development effort has been remarkable.
The centre of the motorcycle industry has, since the beginning, been
the Birmingham-Coventry area in England, known as the Midlands, For
many years, the production of British motorcycles has exceeded the total
of all other production throughout the world.
In of motorcycles in America has declined
recent years, produetion
somewhat, and the number of makes produced and models available has
been at a minimum. Motorcycle imports, chiefly from England, have
become substantial, and have greatly widened the range of, machines
available in the United States market.
The chief other sources of motorcycle production are Germany, Italy,
E'rance, Czechoslovakia, Sweden, and Belg'ium. Amongst the produets of
these continental European countries are numerous outstanding desigrls,
differing quite notably in appearance and mechanical details from English
and American productions. The chief makes produced in these European
countries are Germany-8.M.W., D.K.W., N.S.U., and Zundapp; Italy-
Gilera, Guzzi, Benelli, and Mondial; tr'rance-Jonghi, Peugot, and Moto-
becane; Czechoslovakia-Jawa; Sweden-Husqvarna; Belgium-F..N. Saro-
lea, and Gillet.
This book does not include coverage of these European makes, as it
has been prepared to cover makes and models that are in extensive use
in North America. As yec, none of the continental European machines have
come into use here, except in exceedingly smali numbers.
A feature of continental European motorcycle production has been
the large proportion of 98 e.c. and 125 c.c. size machines. Economic factors,
no doubt, have contributed towards this trend. fn the variety of smaller
erlgine sizes below 98 c.c., a very wide range of European bicycle motor
attachments are being produced.
A noteworthy trend in the continental European motorcycle industry
is the development of a variety of scooter type light weight motorcycles
of advanced design. These are produced chiefly in small eng.ine sizes, and
generally feature front and rear wheel springing, and excellent weather
protection. There has been considerably more development work undertaken
in this field, throughout the industry in the European countries, than in
England and America.
'W'hether a trend towards the scooter type machine
in preference to
the conventional light weight motorcycle will develop in England and
America remains to be seen.
20 MODERN MOTORCYCLE} DESIGN
Today, despite supply and manufacturing difficulties imposed by world

conditions, the motorcycle industry offers a really remarkable range of
machines. Motorcycles are available to suit every type of rider a.nd
operating condition. A study of current motorcycle designs reveals that a
tremendous amount. of desig:n and development work has gone into making
this wide range of modern and efficient equipment available.
The past accomplishments of the motorcycle industry assure the
future introduction of new and more advanced desig:ns fully in pace with
the prospects of public acceptance.
Section 2
FEATURES OF. MryIOR,CYCLE DESIGN

(a) Tyaes of Motorcycle Motors
Two basic types of motors, the four stroke cycle, and the two stroke
cycle, feature in motorcycle use. In current production, these provide four
distinct types, the four stroke being produced in side valve, overhead valve,
and overhead camshaft designs. These types are generally identified by
the abbreviations listed below:
O.H.V. : Ove"head valve-four stroke cycle.
O.H.C. : Overhead ca,mshaft-four stroke cycle.
S.V. : Side va,lve-four stroke cycle.
T.S. : Two stroke cycle.
fn each of the above classes, there are numerous very distinctly dif-
ferent designs varying in number and layout of cylinders, as well as in
constructional details. The various features and performance characteristics
of the most common types, and also the most outstanding individual designs
are dealt with in this chapter.
Motor T;pe Characteristics

Overhead Valve Motors-The most widely used type of motorcycle
motor for many years has been the overhead valve design. Although in
most extensive use abroad, the overhead valve motor has been rapidly
gaining popularity in America in recent years.
The O.H.V. design enables better thermal and brake efficiency to be
achieved than with any other type in production. Gasoline consumption is
notabty less and maximum power output appreciably greater than that
achieved with other types of similar piston displacement.
The superior efficiency of the O.H.V. motor is largely the result of the
improved cylinder filling achieved; the higher compression ratio that can
be used with a fuel of given octane value, and the higher r.p.m. capabilities.
In England and Europe, the O.H.V. type has been progtessively
developed over a period of many years and has reached a high pitch of
deveiopment. O.H.V. motorcycle motor development in America is norv
being keenly pursued and a preference for this type that has been developed
abroad is now almost paralleled on this continent.
F'EATURES OI' MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 2L
- . rt is noteworthy
racturers,
that in recent years, the American automotive manu-
who in the past have concentrated on sidevalve engine designs,
have turned to the overhead valve desi,gn, to achieve higher p"ower output
and.greater operating economy, ending-the previous trena toriaros achiev-
ing'increased power output by larger engine displacements.
Although in the early stages of motoreycle development, certain short-

comings were associated with the overhead v@e tayout, such as increased
mechanical noise, rapid wear o,f exposed valve michanism, and lowered
reliability, these difficutties have long been completely overcome. comptete
v,alve gear enclosure with- oil feed, improved design and materials
eliminated these early weaknesses. ,have
The overhead valve motorcycie motor today represents the most highry
developed type of power unit in general use.
overhead camsha,ft,Motors-These a.re, of course, overhead varve, and

the above remarks on the o.H.v. tyles are equaily appricabre. on o.H.c.
motors, the camshaft is mounted on the cylinder Ileadi eHminating ,,push
rods" which are a part of all normal o.H.v. valve operating mech"anisms,
where the camshaft or cams are housed in the crankcise.
- .-on somg o.H'c. types, rockers are interposed. between cams and varves,
while.on other types, cam operation directly on the valves via straight
tappets only, is provided. The chief advantdge to the O.H.C. type is tfre
reduction in vaJve mechanism operating weight. This providli- -fo,
advantage at peak r.p.m., enabling varvis to -be "r,
controu6o rulttr
lower valve spring pressures. "ligrrtty
Production cost of the o.H.c. type is appreciabry higher than for
standard overhead valve design. ror trris the
its-use"has, wittr onty a
"ii"on
few exceptions, been limited to racing types.
sitle varve Motors-. A rerativery smail portion of present motorcycle
motor production is of the side-varve type. ijntit recerit yea,s. American
motorcyclo manufacturers produced ttix type armost 6""r"si""iy, ano
developed the side varve typ-emotor_to provide i high standard of effiliency.
The decline in popularity of the side vilve engine-app"ars to ue oue to trre
higher performance provided by the modern O-:f.V. -A-esigns.
The side valve design motor has considerabre merit, particurarry for
utilitypurposes
where first.co^st and-simplicity of maintenance
and maximum power output for a given size is not a prime are factors,
aorraiA""rtiorr.
side valve motors are generaly appreciably less expensive to produce
than O.H.V. types of the same piston displacem-ent. f.ouier p*oArr"tt.,
results from the simple cylinder head design, fewer parts L"a *u"rurrirrg
"o"t
operations involved in the production of the cylin-der head-anJ valve
operating mechanism. compression ratios in side valve motors ulu
siderably lower, averaging b:1 to b.b:1 on standard typ;;; ;;".;mpareo "or_
with the averag.e of 7:1 for standard O.H.V. types.
Brake and rhermar efficiency of the side varve are srighfly rower,
maximum outpu^t less, peat power o"ip"J, r.raly
-powgrat 4000-4b00^r.p.T.,
being developed .rg^ âppreciably
iri cornpalrison ssob--'o6bo*r.p.*.
on the average o.H.v. type. Gasoline consumption of"riti,
* " moto"
the sioe-var,ri
is approximatety 20/6 higher than on the averige O.H.V. tyfi.
IlI. 5
TIIE TB,IUMPE "TIGDR lOO'' MOTOR

Pert Sectioneat
Thls latest Triumph motor is of the same basic deslgn and dimensions as the first Triuoph
"Speetl Twln" motor introduced in 1937. The 1952 motor lllustrated features such modeln
developments as die-cast alumlnum alloy eylinder head and block with close pitch fins, pro_
viding exceptional cooling wlth moderate ftn depth. Cylinder sleeves and valve seat ioserts
are fitted, Iligh performance, cool running, simplicity and ease of serytcing are established
characteristlcs of thls motor desiSn.
F'EAT'I'RES OE'MOTORCYCLE DE}SIGN 23
The side valve motor is slighily simpier to maintain, and sometimes

il fav,ored for utility-riding in compaison fo the o.H.v. Those not particu-
rany int_erested in high maximum speed for a given size of piston d-isprace-
ment will find the modern side valve type highly satisfaetorli.
The side valve motor is considered preferabre to the two stroke type;
although slightly more expensive in first cost, maintenance costs are
substantially lower and gasolinG and oil consumption are also appreciably
less' Despite the extra valve gear components tirat are eliminafe'd on the
tw.-o stroke desigrr, the side varve four siroke type of motor, compaiativety,
will cover much greater mileage with far less attention.
rwo stroke Motors-tr'eatures of this type are low first cost, simplicity
of desigrr and maintenance work. Light welght and proportionately- good
power output at low r.p.m. are other noteworthy characteristics.
The disadvantages of the two stroke are heavier gas and oil consump-
tion than on four stroke motors of equal size; slighily objectionable exhaust
note on some models;
.the nuisanee of mixing the oil witn tne gasoline for
engine lubrication; and the need for frequent spark plqg cleanin[. Although
maintenance work is extremely simple and easily '-carrir:d 6ut, carbon
re_moval or "top overhaul" is required at least twi6e as frequentiy as on
other motors, if efficiency is to be maintained.
The standard of durability of the two stroke engine is generarly
appreciably lower than that of the four stroke type. ThJchief fa-ctor that
accounts for this is lubrication inefficiency. etthough automatic lubrication
systems using crankease pressure with needle valvJcontrol, a.lso mechanical
oil pumps, have been used in the past; in recent years the methods of
mixing_ oil with the gasoline in the ratio of from f:16 to 1:24, has been
used almost exclusivery for two stroke rubrication. rn eitrrer sysiem, tne
rate of oil consumption is eonsiderably higher than that of the Lirculating
systems used on the four stroke motors, and the standard oi lubrication
33hi9ved
is.,ot nearry as good because of g:asorine dilution of the oil, and
t'he impossibility of obtaining a comprete separation of the oil from the
gasoline for lubrication of the bearing surfacei. As result,
a life of
shaft main bearing:s and connecting rod big end bearings average crank-about
one-half that obtained on four stioke en{ines operating under similar
conditions.
Although noL g'enerally standard equipment, an efficient air cleaner is

essential if reasonable bearing' and piston life is to be achieved on two
stroke motors. As the gas and air miiture is drawn through the crankcase
on these types, dust enterixg'through the carbureto, a much greater
rate of w'ear on the erankshaft bearihgs and pistons"*r"u!
than on four-stroke
types.
The most popular two stroke sizes are the gg c.e. powerbike or Auto-
cycle unit and the 725 e.c. and 200 c.c. motorcycle units. The best known
manufacturers of two stroke motorcycle motors are villiers, who have
produced,a wide range of types in the past, including 250 c.c. and BbO c.c.
sizes. 200 c.c, is the ra-rg-est viliers motorcycre unit being produced at
present' The Excelsior 250 c.c. twin and the scott 600 c.cl tiarin are the
only larger types produced, excepting a few European models. The two
most popular two stroke motorcycre motors in pr6duction today are the
B.s.A. 125 c.c. Bantam moder, and the viniers -zoo c.c. ttris tdtter type
is fitted to a considerable number of makes.
The two stroke motor is most suited to the rider who essentially
requires a very light machine of low first cost, mainly for eomparatively
light work and trips of moderate distanee.
ft is noteworthy that although the defleetor type piston was featured
in all two stroke motors for a great many years, this has now been com-
pletely replaced by the "flat top" piston design using multiple transfer
ports to direct the g'as air mixture frorn the crankcase towards the top
of the cylinder, thus eliminating the need of piston ,,deflectoriqg.,,
(b) Cyliniler Layouts

The motorcycle industry has produced a wide variety of motor cylinder
layouts, as listed below:-
Single Cylinde?-Vertical, fnclined and Horizontal mountings.
I Vertical, Horizontal and Inclined parallel twins.
Trvin Cvlinde. _] twin-Longitudinal and Transverse mountings.
' :'_V"
I Horizontally opposed twins-Longitudinal and
L Transverse mountings.
Cylinders in line-Longitudinal and Transverse.

Horizontally opposed four, Transverse mounting.
Forir Cylinder "V" tr'ours-Transverse mounting'.
- "Square !'our"-cylinders in square formation,
twin geared crankshaft-s.
Single Cylintler Motors-tr'or many years there have been more single
cylinder motorcycle produced than any other type. In England in particular.
the single cylinder motorcycle engine has been very highly developed.
Since the introduction of the now very well known verticle twin, the
popularity of the single, especially in larger dlsplacement motors, has
been diminishing.
Simplicity of desig'n, low cost of production and ease of servicing are
the chief attributes of the single cylinder motor. The chief disadvantage
to the single cylinder motors is that slightly more physical. effort is
required for starting, in comparison to multi-cylinder engines of sinlrlar
capacity. This is only a factor with the larger capacity singles. It is also
necessary to make somewhat more use of the g:earbox to maintain smooth-
ness in the power transmission at lower speeds.
On smaller capacity single cylinder models, there is complete smooth-
ness in the driveat speeds in excess of 20 m.p.h., and on the larger capacity
singles, at top gear speeds in excess of 30 m,p.h., the drive is remarkably
smooth. There is surprisingly little vibration from single cylinder motor-
cycle motors. On most types, there is no objectionable vibration period
except when motor is run towards peak r.p.m. in the intermediate gears.
There is g:enerally little development work now being undertaken on
single cylinder motors of larger than 350 c.c. capacity, It is almost univer-
sally conceded that most future motors in excess of this size will be of trvin
cylinder design,
The vertical cylinder position has, for many years, been the most
popular single cylinder layout, although inclined cylinder desig:ns are still
T'EIATURES Of,'MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 23
The side valve motor is stightly simpler to maintain, and sometimes

favored for utility riding in comparison to, the O.H.V, Those not particu-
larly interested in high maximum speed for a given size of piston displace-
ment w'ill find the modern side vaJve type highly satisfactory.
The side valve motor is considered preferable to the two stroke type;
although slightly more expensive in first cost, maintenance costs are
substantially lower and g'asolin€ and oil consumption are also appreciably
less. Despite the extra valve gear components that are eliminated on the
two stroke design, the side valve four stroke type of motor, comparatively,
will cover much greater mileage with far less attention.
Trvo Stroke Motors-F eatures of this type are low first cost, simplicity
of desigar and maintenance work. Light weight and proportionately good
power output at low r.p.m. are other noteworthy characteristics.
The disadvantages of the two stroke are heavier gas and oil consump-
tion than on four stroke motors of equal size; slightly objectionable exhaust
note on some models; the nuisance of mixing the oil with the g'asoline for
engine lubrication; and the need for frequent spark plqg cleaning. Although
maintenance work is extremely simple and easily carried out, carbon
removal or "top overhaul" is required at least twice as frequently as on
other motors, if efficiency is to be maintained.
The standard of durability of the two stroke eng:ine is generally

appreciably lower than that of the four stroke type. The chief factor that
accounts for this is lubrication inefficiency. Although automatic lubrication
systems using crankcase pressure with needle valve control, also mechanical
oil pumps, have been used in the past; in recent years the methods of
mixing oil with the gasoline in the ratio of from 1:16 to 1:24, has been
used almost exclusively for two stroke lubrication. In either system, the
rate of oil consumption is considerably higher than that of the circulating
systems used on the four stroke motors, and the standard of lubrication
achieved is not nearly as good because of gasoline dilution of the oii, and
the impossibility of obtaining a complete separation of the oil from the
gasoline for lubrication of the bearing surfaces. As a result, Iife of crank-
shaft main bearings and connecting rod big end bearings average about
one-half that obtained on four stroke engines opera+-ing under similar
conditions,
Although not g'enerally standard equipment, an efficient air cleaner is

essential if reasonable bearing and piston life is to be achieved on two
stroke motors. As the gas and air mixture is drawn through the crankcase
on these types, dust entering'through the carburetor causes a much g'reater
rate of wear on the crankshaft bearings and pistons than on four stroke
types.
The most popular two stroke sizes are the 98 c.c. Powerbike or Auto-
cycle unit and the 125 c,c. and 200 c.c. motorcycle units. The best known
manufacturers of two stroke motorcycle motors are Villiers, who have
produced a wide range of types in the past, including 250 c.c. and 350 c.c.
sizes. 200 c.c. is the largest Villiers motorcycle unit being produced at
present. The Excelsior 250 c.c. twin and the Scott 600 c.c. twin are the
only larger types produced, excepting a few European models. The two
most popular two stroke motorcycle motors in production today are the
B.S.A. 125 c.c. Bantam model, and the Villiers 200 c.e. T?ris latter type
is fitted to a considerable number of makes.
!
F'EATURES OF' MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 25
featured by some makes. The least popular arrangements is the horizontal

cylinder position. This layout enables a slightly lower centre of gravity
to be achieved, but presents constructional and servicing complications
which appear to make its general adoption improbable except in racing
machines.
The singte cylinder motor is considered to still have a very certain
place in future motorcycle use. Economy in production and simplicity
give it an advantage over multi-cylinder types in the lower powered utility
field.
The Vertica.l Twln-Developed by Triumph, this type is considered the
most satisfactory and successful twin motorcycle motor ever built. Sectional
illustration number 5 of a Triumph eng'ine shows the crankshaft con-
struction incorporating central flywheel. The cylinders fire alternately, and
firing impulses are evenly spaced at 360 degrees. The central flywheel
feature and even firing intervals are common to all vertical twin engines
now being produced.
During recent years, the popularity of the vertical twin motorcycle
motor has been steadily growing. Many manufacturers have dropped the
"V" twin desigrt in favor of the vertical twin type.
III. 6
TIIE VIf,LIERS 200 c.c. MOTOR, AND GEA.R,BOX UNIT
This popular power unit is of the latest flat-top piston two stroke design, Features include:
aluminum eyllnder head with hemispherical combustion chamber, aluminum alloy piston of
Iong skirt design, roller con-rod big-end bearing, doubte ball type drive and single bau
timing side crmkshaft bearings, flywheel magneto, including coils generating A.C. for direct
Itghting or battery lighting via rectifier, eearbox is separale but botts dir;t to crankcase,
making a complete unit. Primary driye is by roller chain in oil bath wtth two plate typ6
cork insert clutch.
Power oxtput is approx. 8a/2 B.H,P. at 4000 R.P.M. Three point frame attachment is provided
by one lug at rear of gearbox, one lower anal one foryarcl crankcffie lug,
Manufacturers using this motor equipment include: Ambassador, Dot, Excelsior, !'rancls-
Barnett, James, Norman, O.Il.C., Sun and Tandon.
The vertical twin is presently being produced in 500 c.c. and 6b0 c.c,
eng"ine sizes only, although 350 c,c. and 440 c.c. sizes have also been made,
It is most probable that one larger capacity size of possibly ZbO c.c. will
be produced in this type.
The attractive characteristics of this type are numerous, The motor is
exceptionally compact, requiring rather less frame space than a single
cylinder motor of the same displacement. Extreme smoothness at very
low speeds, good acceleration and maximum speed capabilities are estab-
lished qualities. The excellent cooling that is achieved by this eylinder
layout enables high cruising speeds to be maintained.
High r.p.m. capabilities are a further feature of these small displace-
ment twin cylinder motors. A number o.f the standard motors of this tlpe
develop peak power at 6500 r.p.m.
With just a few exceptions, forged aluminum alloy connecting rods
are used, being one of the features of the original Triumph Speed Tw-in.
The light connecting rod and piston weight chaiacteristics of these motors,
together with rigid crankshaft construction and the central flylvheel
provide notable freedom from vibration and contribute to reliability at
high r.p.m.
One piece cylinder block and a common cylinder head are used almost
exclusively. The vertical twin lends itself well to this method of construc-
tion. The closeness of the cylinder bores, proximity of inlet valves, ald
consequently short length of inlet manifold are assets to carburation. These
features combined with the even firing intervals provide a more uniform
g:as flow to each cylinder than achieved with other twin layouts, w-ith a
single carburetor. Dual carburetors show only slight advanta.ge on some
racing types of vertical twins.
Although some examples of the vertical twin engine had been previousl-v
produced, the vertical twin era unquestionably commenced with the intro-
duction of the Triumph 500 c.c. Speed TWin model late in 1987, which set the
pattern for subsequent vertical twin designs. Since 1946, other vertical
twins have come into production, notably B.S.A., Ariel, A.J.S., Matchless,
Sunbeam, Royal-Enfield, Norton, J.A.P., and Indian. Although basicalll.
similar, there are numerous variations in mechanical details in these makes.
The Sunbeam represents an almost entirely new motorcycle design.
An illustration of this model and specifications appear on pag'e 15. The
chief departure from conventional practice in the construction of this
motor lies in the crankcase and cylinder block bei4g one aluminum casting.
with inserted cylinder sleeves. The one piece crankshaft is parallel to the
frame. This is the most suitable Iayout where shaft drive is emplo;'ed,
as compared to the transverse crankshaft used on all other t1pes, *'hich
is particularly adaptable to chain drive.
The Sunbeam design also features an aluminum cylinder head s'j.th
valve seat inserts and overhead camshaft. The car-type construction
featured throughout the Sunbeam motor and dnve design represents a
distinct advancement towards a higher standard of reliability and reduction
in maintenance requirements in comparison to the more conventional
motorcycle design.
Three manufacturers are now producing 500 c.c. sidevalve vertical
twin motors. The Triumph and B.S.A. machines of this type are at present
being produced for military purposes only. The J.A,P. (J. A. Preswitch) is
T.EATURES OT'MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 27
an English proprietary motor unit available to various motorcycre manu-
facturers, but as yet, produced only in small quantity.
on this continent, the rndian has been the only vertical twin marketed
by a^n American manufacturer to date. The first inotor of this type made
was a 440 c,c. o.H.v. twin introduced in 194g and this was sub-siquenuy
enlarged to 500 c.c. size. The rndian vertical twin represents a substantial
departure in American motorcycre production from the .(v,, twin model,
which had been produced almost exclusively for many years.
.to .beR-9yi9*l"g the present twin cylinder motorcycte fie1d, there appears
little doubt that the vertical twin will continue to be tire most popular
multi-cylinder motorcyele layout for many years to come.
The "V" Trvin-This is one of the oldest types of motorcycle twin
cylinder designs. rt is thought that this cylinder layout originally developed
due to fitting rather weil into the angle iormed by the posl and front
down tube of the conventional cycte type frame. -rt had"eit the added advan-
tage in being a rather simple development from the single cylinder motor,
involving chiefly the addition of another cylinder btock to the conventional
single cylinder type crankcase. in has a number of inherent
disadvantages in comparison to the vertical twin. These are notably,
unevenly. spaced firing intervals and rather unequal cylinder lubrication,
carburation, and cooling characteristics,
A11 current "V" twin designs use a single crank throw for both con
rods. On a 45 degree angle motor, firing intervals are 405 and B1b deg:rees.
The uneven firing intervals eause slightly less smooth low r.p.rn. character-
isties, in comparison to twins with even firing intervals.
Harley-Davidson have been, by far the largest producers of motorcycle
'lV" !*iry for many years, using.-a 4b,, degree cylinder angle. fndian pro-
duced 42" deglee angle ,,V,, twins exclusivety for *rry
!"""., .itiro,rgl,
production of this type by the rndian is now iimited to in-g0,,
irsoo
size. American made "V,, twins have also been produced in 30,, iOOO c.c.);".".1
!7" f6OO e.c.);45" (750 c.c.); 61,, (1000 c.c.); and 74,, (7ZOO c.c.i sizes.
Currert Hartey-Davidson production includes the 45,,,61,, and 74i, sizes.
include A.J.S. Brough-Superior, B.S.A., Enfield, J.A.p., James, -Matchless,

ze".itI.., and vincent H.R.D. The vincent H.R.D. is the onry ,,v,, iwin motor-
cycle in current production in England.
one of the most outstanding "v" twin motorcycle motors ever pro-
duced was the tr{atchless "silver Arrow," a narrow angle mono-brock motor
of- a 400 c.e. dispracement. This was probabry the -smoothest ano most
advaneed motorcycie "v" twin ever made. The simplicity of construction
and cleanness of design contrasted strikingly with the Lonventional ,,v,,
motors.
A narrow (26 degree) cylinder angle gave a much more evenry spaced
firing interval than other wider angle "v" twins, firing intervals teing sse
and 386 deg:rees. This narrow angle necessitated both cylinders in one block.
The arrangement worked remarkably well; inlet manifold being cast
between the two cylinders. A one piece cylinder head was arso used]
This unique moder.was produced only during 19go-31. The srump in
the motorcycle market in the early thirtiei accounled for the discontinuing
of this, and some other outstanding designs which were in ad.vance of the
times. whatever future there may be for the "v" twin for motorcycle use,
the performance characteristics of the Matchless "Silver Arrow" indicate

that a considerable possibility lies in the development of the narrow angle
mono-block type, providing compactness, clean design, and exceptional
smooth running characteristics.
Tho Opposed Twin-Theoretically, this is one of the best twin cyiinder
layouts. On all types, a two throw 180 degree crankshaft is used, and the
pistons travel outwards and inwards together, and fire alternately. This
gives perfectly even firing intervals of 360 degrees. The pistons and con
rods of eaeh cylinder Lralance each other exactly, providing excellenl
mechanical balance. Exceptional smoothness at all eng'ine speeds and
freedom from vibration characLerize this type.
On motorcycle application the opposed type presents certaln mechan-
ical problems, such as rather considerable overall length; also iong
and often too cool running intake manifolds; unless two carburetors
are employed. Shorter than average stroke is usually employed in order
to minimize overall length. Most types have approximately equal bore and
stroke dimensions.
Longitudinal and tranverse motor mountings both have been employed
as well as chain and shaft drive. The transverse mounting is particularly
suitable for the employment of shaft drive, and this layout provides for
much better and more even cylinder cooling, although placing cyliaders
more vulnerable to accident damage.
A well developed opposed twin motor makes a very attractive motor-
cycle power unit; the vibrationless rrrnning at all r.p.m., and smooth per-
formance resulting from the even spacin,g of firing intervals are the chief
attractions of this layout.
Four Cylinder Tl,pes-tr'our cylinder motorcycle motors have been
produced only in limited numbers, and in recent years the Ariel "Square
Eour" has been the only four cylinder type produced. Of the various four
cylinder types, the "in line" motors are probably the simplest to produce.
Somewhat over twenty years ago these were featured in a number of
American made motorcycles, most notably the Henderson and Indian.
Manufacture of the Henderson was discontinued in 1931, and the Indian
in 1940.
On these air cooled types with cast iron cylinders, rather excessive
operating temperatures for the third and fourth cylinders were experienced.
The rather considerable length of the in line four cylinder motor is son-ie-
what of a disadvantage, necessitating a rather long wheel base.
There may be some future for this type of motor in motorc;'c1e use,
within the range of 500 to 1000 c.c. displacement. Aluminum cylinder block
and head construction will undoubtedly be featured in any nerv designs
of this type, and would overcome cooling difficulties previously experienced.
The four cylinder in line motor provides smooth running and even firing'
impulses of 180 degrees.
Most four cylinder in line motors produced in the past har-e been
positioned with the crankshaft longitudinal to the frame. This la5'out is
particularly applicatrle to the use of shaft drive. The chain drive used on
this type in the past has necessitated the use of bevel gears. On sma11
displacement motors of this type, with chain drive, a more compact layout
is possible with transverse motor mounting. fn the line of special racing
machines, the ftalian Gilera and M.V. are producing 500 c.c. size in line
fours with the motor mounted transversely.
X'EATURES OF' MOTORCYCLE DESIGN ,o
The "Square X'our" built by Ariel, first in 500 and 600 c.c. sizes, and
finally in 1000 c.c. displacement, represents possibly the most unique four
eylinder motorcycle motor. Although it has some shortcomings in service,
from a design point of view, it combines the very desirable characteristiss
of even firing intervals, excellent mechanical balance, compact construc-
tion and reasonably good eooling, which have been lacking in some measure
in most other four cylinder layouts.
t.
IIII pnrssuRe oil

F +Tl RrrunN olt
EFF,:,Ilil supp' olL
IT. 7
THE SUNBDAM TWIN LUBBICATION SYSTEIT

The Suntleam twin motor features a pressure oiling system fed. by a gear type pump. Oil
suppty ts contained in a cast aluminum crs.nkcase sump, finned to improve cooltng. Oll is fed
under pressure to the rear crankshaft main bearing, con-rod blg-ends, camshaft antl locker
shaft and returns to sump by gravity. This type of lubdcation system with oil supply ln
crankcase sump provides the advantage of quiek warming of the oil and reduced oi1 dilution
through condensation during cold weather operation, For average use this type of system is
considered superior to the more popular separate oil tank, dry-sump oiling,
I
I
"V" Fours have seen onty limited use as motorcycle motors but the
narrow angle overhead camshaft Matchless .,Silver Hawk,, produced in
the early thirties was an outstanding model, proving. the piacticability
of such a design.
Opposed fours have not been made in America or England, except for
the Brough-Superior "Golden Dream," announced in 193g, but never put
into production. A few European opposed four models have been produced
with transverse motor mountings and shaft drive, The German Zundapp
is a notable example of this type.
Motor Mountings-The majority of existing models utilize engine
plates as a means of attachment in frame. These flat steel plates usuall),
partially surround erankcase at front and rear and are bolted to crankcase
and frame lugs. This design is not generally favorable to quick motor
removal and replacement,
Platform type of motor mountings utilizing a lug at front and rear of
crankcase, mounting on two horizontal frame lug platforms, represent one
of the best types of motor mounting. This design permits quick motor
removal and replacement, and should be more generally adopted. It has
been successfully featured by Harley-Davidson for many years.
"Rubber mounting'n has not come into general use in motorcycle motors
as has been the case in automotive design. It is not particularly suitable
to chain drive. The notable example of a rubber mounted power unit is
the Sunbeam. This method of mounting has proved highly satisfactorl-
on this machine, and it appears probable that rubber motor mountings
will also feature in the design of future shaft drive models.
(c) General Characteristics of Motorcycle Motorc

Power Output-Most motorcycle motors develop considerably n-role
maximum brake horsepower per c.c. or inch of piston displacement than
any other type of unsupercharged motor. This is due to a combination of
reasons; notably, the high r.p.m. characteristics made possible b1. the
relatively small bore and stroke dimensions, providing low rveight of
reciprocating parts, and low piston speed in relation to r.p.m. othJr con-
t-rilutlng factors are the general hlgh efficiency design, espeeialll' on the
O.H.V. and O.H.C. types on which restriction in g.s ilow is minimized a.s
much as possible.
Most side valve and two stroke type motors develop maxirnum B.H.p.
at 3500-4500 r.p.m., and the O.H.V. types at b000-6800 r.p.m. On racing
types, particularly of smail piston displacement, peak po\,l'er output js
often obtained at as high as 5500 on two stroke and side valve t1pei. and
upwards of 7500 r.p.m. on O.H.V. and O.H.C, types.
Power outputs at very low r.p.m. are in some instances proportionatel]'
less than with other types of motors. On types where effort is made to
obtain highest maximum power output, it is invariably neeessary to
sacrifiee performance at low r.p.m. to some extent. To obtain the maximunr
in performance from motorcycle motors, their ,,power cun e', must be
appreciated, and high r.p.m. capabilities utilized by use of the gearbox.
Compa,rative Power Output-The approximate averag.e po.*,er outputs
per inch of piston displacement on the various types of motorcycle motors
are detailed on the next page.
FEIATURES OT' MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 31
Compres- Output
Motor Typo sion Ratio R.P.M. per inch
Standard S.V. motors.. 5.5:1 4500 .5 B.H.P.
Special S.V. motors.. 6:1-6.5:1 5500 ,7 B.H.P.
i
Two stroke motors........... 6:1- 8:1 4000 .o- -'l B.H.P.
O.H.V. singles and V twins........... 7:L 5500-6000 .7- .9 B.H.P.
O.H.V. vertical twins................... 7:L-7.5:l 6000-6500 .9-1.0 B.IT.P.
O.H.V. and O.H.C. racing.motors 8:1 6500-7500 1.3-1.6 B.H.P.
I
Compresion Eatios-The above table shows the averag:e ratios used,
The figures listed are applicable generalty to the use of standard g:asoline
within a. rang:e of 70 to 85 octane. a number of factors influence selecting
compression ratio. Relatively hlgher compression ratios are usable in
cylinders- of smaller piston displacement. Aiuminum cylinder heads giving
improved cooling permit use oi higher ratios than with cast iron.
Boro and Stroko Factors-fn the past, most of the motorcycle engines
have featured a ionger stroke than cylinder bore size. on the averag:e,
stroke has been approximately 2b/o greater than cylinder diameter. ft is
noteworthy that in recent years, the majority of new engine designs have
featured a marked reduction in this difference. The trend has beeritowards
approximately equal bore and stroke dimensions, and in the case of some
engines the trend has gone to a larger bore than stroke.
Three main considerations appear responsible for this development,
On high r.p.m. and racing type engines, it has been possible by re-clucing
stroke, to achieve higher r.p.m. without increased piston speed, which in
many designs is one of the limiting factors. A larg:er bore size enables
the use of larger diameter valves. There has been a steady trend towards
larger inlet valve sizes on racing eng'ines. on other types, the shorter
stroke is favored out of consideration for overall engine dimensions. This
particularly applies to opposed twin engines, where the shorter stroke
enables a more compact layout to be achieved.
rt noteworthy that the ratest American automotive engines show
a trend-is
towards shorter stroke, and laqger cylinder bore dimensions,
Firing Inte'rvals-Even spacing and closeness of, cylinder firing
intervals contribute substantially to smooth running characteristics, espe-
cially at low r.p.m. The firing intervals in degrees bf crankshaft rotation
are shown below for the different motor layouts.
Four Sf,roke Cycle Firing fntervals-
Single Cylinder-Even 720 degrees.
Vertical Twin 360 degrees.
Opposed Twin -Even 360 degrees.
-Even
"V" Twins-
26 Deg. Angte-386 Deg. - 844 Deg.
42 Deg. Angte-402 Deg. - 818 Deg.
45 Deg. Angte-405 Deg. - B1b Deg.
60 Deg. Angle-420 Deg. - 800 Deg.
90 Deg. Angle*450 Deg. - 220 Deg.
Four Cylinder Types-
Square E'our
In Line E'our
Opposed F our-All Even 180 Degrees.
DO MODERN MOTORCYCLE DEISIGN
III. 8
SDCTIONAL VIEW OT' B.S.A. O.E.V. SINGT.E MOTOR
This cross sectional view of a B.S.A. 500 c.c. O.H,V, type motor shows details of construc-
tion and assembly that are common to the majority of O.H.V. type motors. Note the oil
feed to the big end from the gear type pump is via passageways in right crankcase and
timing cover and drilled right mainshaft, flywheel and crankpln. A constructionai feature
peculiar to B.S.A, models is the flanged flywheel mainshafts that are pressed thlough md
rivetted. to flywheels, The more common general practice in both single cylinder and ,,V,,
twin types is to secure mainshafts to flywheels with nuts using a taper fit or straight fil
with shoulder on shaft pulling up against flywheel.
X'EATURES OF MO"ORCYCLE DESIGN JJ
"V" Twin Firing Intervals-Uneven firing intervals are characteristie

of "V" twin design. The narrower the cylinder angle, the less the differ-
ence in interval, and consequently smoother low speed running is obtained.
This applies to aII current types which are built with both con rods on
the single common crank throw.
Even firing interval is obtainable in the "V" twin design, by use of a
two throw crankshaft, or special fly'wheel assembly with centrat fiJrwheel
and crankpins on each side spaced at the interval of the angle between
the cylinders. No "V" motorcycle motors are at present produced of such
design, but it is possibte that wide angle ,,V,, twins will be produced with
two throw cranks, providing evenly spaced power impulses, and improved
low speed characteristics. Such an arrangement would involve offset
cylinders.
Both offset and in-line cylinders are used on existing "V" twin designs.
Harley-Davidson and Indian have always used an in-line cylinder arrange-
ment; centrally positioned con-rods being accommodated by a "tr'orkecl',
big-end on one rod, On some English "V" twin models that have been
produced in the past, and the current Vincent engine, offset cylinders are
featured with con-rod big-ends operating side by si.de.
Cooling-With rare exceptions, all motorcycle motors are air cooled.
Cast iron cylinders and heads are still the most common, heat dissipation
being achieved.by the cast radiating "fins.', The Scott two stroke twin
and the Velocette opposed tw'in four stroke, are currently the two chief
exceptions, beiqg water cooled.
Although it is known that more uniform and lower cylinder block
and cylinder head temperatures can be achieved with water or liquid
cooling, air cooling works exceptionally well on motorcycle motors, and
avoids the complication of radiator and hose connections, which do not
lend themselves particularly well to the conventional motorcycle layout.
'Cylinders a,nd Cylintler Ileads-Although cast iron cylinder blocks
have been most extensively used, there is now. a definite design trend
towards aluminum cylinder blocks with cast iron alloy liner or ,,sleeve.,'
It is likely that most future designs, particularly high performance type
engines, will feature this type of cylinder block, as it offers the advantages
of improved cooling and enables reduced piston clearance with less danger
of seizure. Weight reduetion is a further asset.
Although cast iron cylinder heads are still most widely used, machines
have been produced with aluminum cylinder heads for many years. On the
O.H.V. types, aluminum bronze alloy cylinder heads were first used. This
fairly hard material does not necessarily require valve seat inserts. Although
it offers little reduction in weight, in comparison to cast iron, it provides
better coolinS:. On recent designs, light aluminum alloy cylinder heads
with pressed in valve seat inserts or valve seat inserts on to which the
cylinder head has been cast, are generally used,
The use of aluminum alloy cyiinder heads offers a substantial advan-
tage on high performance type motors, as it enabtes higher compression
ratios to be used without detonation in comparison to cast iron, on fuel
of the same octane value. It a,lso contributes towards higher cruising speed
capabiiities, iyithout overheating.
Pistons-Aluminum alloy pistons are now in almost exclusive use.
These are produced from a number of different alloys. One of the most
successful types now being used is the low expansion Silicon alloy, which
has an.appreciably lower coefficient of expansion than other alloys, and

retains high tensile strength at elevated temperatures
Pistons can generally be grouped in two classifications; either of solid
skirt or slotted compensating skirt design. With a few exceptions, the
standard equipment of most English machines to date has been the solid
skirt type. Although favored by some manufacturers with the thought of
greater strength, it is now considered becoming obsolete except on the
very small bore types. The amount of piston clearance required on solid
skirt type pistons in iron cylinder blocks, even with the benefit of cam
grinding and tapering, is such that piston slap and accompanying noise
is evident on some types until motor is ,warmed up. This piston slap
accelerates cylinderwear as well as wear of the piston rings and piston
ring grooves.
The well known "T" slot design enables closer fitting, providing a
more flexible skirt, and greater compensation for expansion. This type
of skirt, however, has not a great reserve of strength, unless of fairly
adequate section, and when excessive clearance does develop, fracture of
skirt can occur.
Possibly the best type of compensating skirt design yet developed for
motorcycle service is that with two horizontal slots, located at the top of
skirt, or in the lower ring groove, directly above the thrust faces of the
skirt, parallel to the piston pin.
In conjunction with a cam ground or oval turned finish, this type
can be fit+-ed with the very minimum of clearance, with less danger of
seizure than other types. This design enables the maximum advantage
to be obtained from the cam grinding or oval finish, as due to the skirt
being connected to the piston crown only in the vicinity of the piston pin
bosses, the expansion of +-he piston crown is transmitted to the skirt along
ru. I
B.S.A. 650 c.c. TWIN CYIINDER IIEAD
The eylinder head finnlnB and valve chamber layout is designed to provide the maxlmum
air flow between the exhaust ports and over the centre of each combustion chamber prol'lding
most efficlent coollng.
F'EATURES OT'MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 35
the axis of the piston pin, where the diameter of the piston is least,
clearance is greatest, as a result of the oval finish, and
The radial
- . at right expansion of the piston crown is not transmitted to the
skirt angles to the piston pin, due to the circumferentiar srots
above the thrust area of the skirt. rn contrast, sorid skirt pistons undergo
considerable thrust axis expansion in operation, due to the iadial expansion
of the crown being transmitted to thl pis+-on skirt armosr equarly in alr
directions.
Although cam grinding or oval turning offers an advantage on solid
- . pistons, permitting
skirt croser fitting, **Jr, greater advantage" from this
method of finishing is achieved on th1 horizontally slotted ty"pe.
The most recent development in compensating skirt pistons is
horizontally srotted t1pe, with arso a split eitending-somewnit more thana
half-way from the bottom of the skirt. Tlris provides- a maximum degree
skirt flexibility and compensation for expdnsion. The number of manu- of
facturers now using this design in the originar equipment is steadily
increasing.
Piston B,ings-Alth?"-8.,1 many different widths of piston rings
_
have been fitted to British ." gre.at.
ind American motorcycles duriig the past
years, it is now becoming_ generaily accepted tnaf tne
%:,, cimpression
ring, and the 1/s" or %2" width oil ring otter ttre best compromi"es iltw""n
efficiency and durability.
Tlte lAa" width compression ring, long favored by many English
facturers, and recently.coming inL ui in America, manu_
a6rirrl6ty--tu" u'
appreciably shorter rife than a %'" ring, and is responiible ro"
cylinder wear, particurarry under dus[y operating-condition".aiceierateo
towards standardization of. %2,, width"eorirpr"""i3"-rffi--ulu it" trena
width oil rings has been growing fiii"o, s132,,
. A recent deveropment that has proved a great advancement is the

chrome.plated piston ring. use of chro*" prated piston ring
in-ttre top
" greater Iife than trre stindara
groove has been found t_o give much
ring,.and further type
to prolong the life 6f tfru other piston ri"gs,-""a srU-
stantially reduce the rate of cyrinder bore wear. Marked aavfiiiag;s
have
been demonstrated unrl,er all types of operating conditions, particilarry
extremely dusty operations.
in
Connecting Rods-tr'orged steel connecting rods generally
past.. are gradua,y being iepiaced by the forged used in the
aruminum arov types
which are featuring in most new engini aesigns.-in hiil;;;
especially, keeping connecting rod weight tlo a minirium'is tlft"e'motors
factor,. and it is possible to achieve tiie strength of an"ilportant
appreciable weight saving in the forged aluminlum attoy a steer rod w.ith an
type.
Bearings-Roller bearing con-rod big ends, also roller and
main,shaft bearings have been general[, popular with ball bearing
most makes until
T.g:"!.years, when plain type ion-r,od-fig_enA bearings tn coniunction
with higher pressure oiling systems, have Iome into pr"o*irruri-
ticularty on the verticat twin motors. Given- adequai; ;ii;;6i, r""", pu"-
type con-rod big-end bearing is considered srpu.fo" to trre iil prri'
rii-r# typ'e.
tr'or crankshaft drive sides, bal and roler bearings are both
w"iarery
used, the roller t;4)e being favored on the high perfoim"""" *oil*.,
to its greater load capacity. Rolrer and bal typ" t"r"irrg" u"" -"i.1 O,r"
on timing side crankshafts on the majority of -sngre """o
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T'EATURES OT'MOTORCYCTE DESIGN 37
also on twin tl4)es. On recent engine designs, there has
towards.use of a prain bearing on tie rigrrt-sioe crankshaft.been a trend
sidered to offer the advantagi of slighil-t-better cranksrrati This is con-
in some cases, reduction in "timing g-"*""oL". These prain srppo"t, ana
bearings are
usually of phosphor bronze or white metar rinecr steel
or bronze bushes.
Valves, Guides and Springs_Various types of valve steels
motorcycle motors. These are usuaily of trre siticon cirrome-iypeare used in
alloy, the latter genera[y being fav6red for exhaust varves high * rpsor
engiaes. efficiency
, valve_ guides are generally iron a[oy, in some cases hardened.

valve guides are favored for u-se in aluminum alloy cylinder - Bronze.
'
treaas.
The chief trouble experienced with varves on present designs is
depo-sit forming on the exhaust valve stems, reiulting from a
residue and oil burninq on. This troubre is most pronouiced
frori combustion
tion system provides f-or a liberal rru"i".fioo to the valves on where rubrica_
Euture o.H.v. type
tolo."": designs-may show a trend towards modifying iire'amount
of Iubrication provided for 6xhaust varves, to rerieve trris
tlno'ency tlwards
valve sticking trouble, which causes in some instances,
quent valve reconditioring than normally much more fre-
should be necessary
Valve springs are generally of the coil type, with dual
on o.H.V. motors. Some O.H.V. motors, particutaitly-rr"** springs
hairpin type_varve springs. These offer'.6*l ,arrrrtage ,inl., ieature
r.p.m., enabling better controt of valves to te aciri"""i at"exti;;"ry rrigr,
pressure. Considerablv more space, however, .iigi;ly f"*""
is required"riii,
to accommodate
the hairpin type spri"ngs, and -where ;l;;ll springs are required, as on
standard motors, they fiave not yet i"io-S.neral use.
"o*"
Carburetors-On Bntish and European_motorcycle
Amal type piston valve, needre iet carrurlior has been equipment, the
used almost univer_
sally for many years. This type has proved highly
satisfactory, providing.
for exeerent mixture cont_roiihrougtiout G" trr.6ttru
butt:rfly type throtfle valve carbui"t; h;; been featured
""r,!".-iirJîirrt""t
production for manv years, and trus aesig;- on American
Harley-Davidson twin'moaels. is currenfly *.d- oi"r"ff tiru
other tmes of carburetors in motor cycre
sorex, and the s'u. Alr these types use a nutler,yuse incrude the Bowden,
Bowden carburetor is c.urrenr!-91ry n"i"g type throttle varve. The
Jpplied as a repracement unit,
and the sorex and S.u. types aie titied to iire
aiier ror" ,rra'r.tu.i iriu*pi,
Thunderbird models respectively, u. *"ff as-automofive
equipment.
Lubrication systems-Dry sump rubrication is
on four stroke cycle motors. sipara[e used armost excrusivery
o, tanrrs are most common, arthough
a few motors carry oil in a crankcase reservoir. r*o p"*p"'aie* u.uauy
emptoyed, the feed oump detivering oit urraer pre""ui;-;-;;
big-end bearing, ana bn some types, -on to tire ilrr_.ou
bearings, as well as providing a cyfnaer waii oit
main shaft and rocker shaft
teeo.
Other friction surfaees are lubricated by oil mist
few t)'pes, a branch rine of the oit return-is-,rsed or splash. On a
o, drains to the bottom of the crantease-tSigravity, to lubricate valve rockers.
ana i" picLea"up ry
the return pump and returned to the tant. "rrre -6r;k;;"";'ri'Jr*p
,,dry,,, due i"
""i"""-p"*p u"r,,eor'#*# JJp."i,
to
I;Xl ffiT::#tivery
. The dry sump svstgm provides for a large eirculation
genera,y recognized as providing the best iubrication
i,s
of cool oil and
driving, combined with maximu* -oil for sustained hard
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T.EATURES OF'MOTORCYCLE! DESIGN 39
The chief disadvantage of the ,,dry sump,, system with separate oil
tank, is experienced where many short runs are made in cold wealther.
The_oil supply is rather slow to warm, and considerable oil dilution through
condensation, is experienced. This is a serious fault in operation at below
freezing temperatures, where stoppage in the oil supply can occur, due
to water that has accumulated in the oil, freezing in the bottom of the oil
tank, or oil passageways.
It is considered very probable that a greater trend towards containing
oil supply in the crankcase will eventually develop. Elimination of oil tank,
external pipes, and provision of better cold weather lubrication are notable
advantages.
Two stroke cycle motors use the ,, Petroil,, system almost exclusively,
which is simply oil mixed with the gas (petrol) in a ratio of approximately
one-half pint per gallon. This system works surprisingly well, but the
inconvenience of mixing the oil with the gas is an objectionable feature.
Two types of automatic lubrication systems have been used on two
stroke motors in the past. The Villiers automatic system featured use of
crankcase pressure piped to the oil tank, feeding oil via a needle valve
control. This system has not been used for some years. Scott two stroke
motors use a mechanical feed pump, pumping oil at a slow rate from a
separate oil tank.
The various types of lubrication systems and their maintenance
requirements are dealt with in Chapter !''our ,,Maintenance,, Section
X'our "Lubrication." Reference to this section wiil provide data on all
common types of lubrication systems.
Oil Pumps-F our types of oil pumps are commonly used as listed
below. Their use is almost equally divided; no particular type is favored.
(1) Gear Type Pump.
(2) Vane Type Pump.
(3) Plunger Type Pump with Reciprocating plunger.
(4) Plunger Type Pump with Reciprocating and Rotating plunger.
- Oil
few
Filters-Adequate oil filters have only been employed on a very
models. wire mesh screen filters are common on bolh oil feed and
return on many models, but do not effectively remove small abrasive
particles. Separate oil filter units with removable cartridge have only in
rare instances been fitted. Such units are desirable to avoid premalure
motor wear under dusty operating conditions, especially where an adequa.te
carburetor air filter is not employed.
(d) General Features of Motorcycle Design
Ignition Systems-Magneto ignition has been used on the majority
of British models for many years. A progressive replacement of manual
spark control, with automatic centrifugal spark advance has been under
way for some years. This has proved very satisfactory.
coil ignition utilizing automatic advance has been used on a limited
number of models for some years. It appears probabte that there may
be a trend towards coil ignition, particularly on utility type machines.
The design of magnetos on British motorcycle motors, excepting the
flyvuheel type, has remained basically unchanged for a great many years.
This rotating coil type presents complications in coil and condenser
servicing. It appears probable that on future designs, there will be a trend
to stationary coil type magnetos, which are much more easily serviced.
40 :MODERN MOTORCYCLE DESIGN
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E'EATURES OF'MOTORCYCLE DEISIGN 41
Vacuum advance control has not been employed on moJorcycle ignition

it is probable that it may come into use on the more expensive
systems, but
multi-cylinder types. Vacuum control in conjunction with eentrifugal
advance, enables ignition timing to be automatically regulated to suit
both engine speed and Ioad conditions, The centrifugal control increases
advance with eng"ine speed. Vacuum control provides the refinement of
additional spark advance under light load conditions when throttle opening
is small and intake manifold vacuum high, and reduces advance under
heavy load conditions, when throttle is opened, and vacuum reduced.
Although manual ignition advance is still used on some machines,
better results for average use can be obtained with automatic control.
On American models, coil ignition has been most popular for many
years, This has been standard equipment on all Harley-Davidson machines.
A feature of the ignition system on these twin models is the double high
tension wire coil which eliminates the need for an ignition distributor, as
used on other multi-cylinder coil ignition equipment. On this double high
tension wire coil design, a spark is provided to both plugs simultaneously.
Timing, as in all types of ignltion equipment, is controlled by the breaker
cam, and in effect, there is a waste spark on the exhaust stroke of each
piston, lrhich is of no consequeuce.
Indian models have featured both coil ignition and magneto ignition,
as optional equipment for some years. The present vertical twin models
in this make use magneto ignition with centrifugal automatic advance.
Gearboxes-tfntil recently, there have been substantial differences
between g:ear box design on British and American motorcycles. British
types for some years have, with few exceptions, featured a four speed
constant mesh type gearbox, using foot gear change control, employing
a positive ratchet mechanism. The characteristic of this type is the very
convenient gear changing; a quick change being possible either up or
down at any speed, by tight movement of the foot pedal. Operation of
this type of change is detailed in chapter three, "Motorc,'cle Operation."
Use of the sliding gear type gearbox was retalned considerably longer
on American made equipment. Harley-Davidson changed to a constant
mesh gearbox desig'n in the mid-thirties. The Indian "80" twin model,
however, still uses the sliding gear type.
The distinction between the eonstanL mesh and sliding gear type
gearboxes, is lhat on the sliding gear type, although "dogs" take up the
drive in high gear, sliding gear teeth in and out of mesh is involved on
the intermediate gears. The "constant mesh" type gear changes involve
only the engagement and disengagement of on the sides of gears,
and the gear teeth themselves being in constant mesh, do not suffer the
gear chaqg:ing wear and abuse inevitable on the sliding gear type.
The foot gear shift control, which is now generally acknowledged as
the most suitable form of gear shift for motorcycle use, in conjunction
with the handle bar clutch control, was first introduced on English and
European models in the early thirties. This first appeared in standard
American motorcycle production in 1948, on the new fndian vertical twin
models, and the Harley-Davidson 125 c.c. model. tr'or 1952, foot gear
change and handle bar clutch control has been made available on all
Harley-Davidson twin models.
42 MODXIRN MOTORCYCLE DESIGN
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EEATURES OF' MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 43
In the past, most motorcycle gearbox conslruction has been in the

form of a separate unit mounted on the frame behind the motor, and
removable from frame separately from motor. There is now an increasing
trend towards unit construction. On most 125 c.c. type machines the gears
are cor\t-ained in a rearward compartment of the main engine erankcase.
On larger models, semi-unit construction is developing, a separate gearbox
casing being provided but fitting directly on the rear of motor crankcase.
On machines with crankshaft longitudinal to frame such as the
Sunbeam shaft drive twin and the Douglas transverse opposed twin models,
a form of semi-unit construction more on automotive lines is employed.
A separate g:earbox casing is employed attached directly to the rear of
motor crankcase.
Clutches-Conventional models have been generally equipped with
multi-plate clutches, known as countershaft type, mounted on the left
side of the gearbox mainshafl and running: at l/s to r/2 engine speed. The
majority are-dry clutches, a few run in oil. The countershaft clutch oper-
ating at reduced r.p.m. permits easier high speed gear changing than with
the fly'lvheel type. Greater frictional area and spring pressure is required
in comparison to flyr:vheel t)?e clutches operating at engine speed and
consequeqtly at only l/s to r/z the torque loading.
Single plate flylvheel.type clutches are presently employed in the
Sunbeam and Douglas twin models. This type of elutch is particularly
suitable to these engine layouts.
Clutch frictional material is usually cork, fabric or fibre. F abric or
fibre discs have been used almost exclusively on American machines, with
the exception of the new Indian twin, which features English type cork
inserted plates. All Indian twin models have wet type clutches, and the
Harley-Davidson the dry type. British models use cork inserted plates,
fabric inserted plates, and some fabric disc t1pes. The cork clutches are
made both dry and to run oil. The fabric types are invariably dry. Cork
type clutches provide high load capacity \uith relatively light spring
pressure due to the high coefficient of friction. Cork clutches, however, must
not be slipped under load, as the cork will not stand heat, and can be
burned oqt very rapidly if slipped to any extent. It is considered that
there will be a trend towards replacing cork rvith other frictional material
less susceptible to damage from slipping.
A fluid flyvrheel drive eliminating the conventional type clutch was
built by B.S.A. in 1934 but did not go into regular production.
Aqtomatic centrifugal clutches have come into use on some American
scooter and bicycle attachment motors. This type on which clutch engage-
ment takes place automatically, as engine speed increases, is thought to
have a future, particularly on utility t;,'pe machines, although it has not as
yet been adopted by any of the long established motorcycle manufacturers.
Power Transmission-Chain and Slm,ft Drives-With a few noteworthy
exceptions, motorcycles have for many years, used roller chain drive.
Current models use either a single or multi-row primary drive chain from
the engine to gearbox, running enclosed, generaliy in an oil bath.
tr'inal drive is by single row roller chain, either with or without drip
feed lubrication. But for a few rare exceptions, ,there has been no total
enclosure of the rear chain, the majority being very inadequately equipped
with a guard over the top row, provided to keep the riders clothing out
of the rear chaln, rather than to provide any adequate chain protection.
tr'or,a period of many years, prior to 1940, a distinctive feature of the

sunbeam machine was the fully enclosed and lubricated rear chain.
Experience with these machines proved the practicability of rear chain
enclosure.
There has been much controversy over the respective merits of chain
drive, in comparison with shaft and gear drive. The main factors involved
are as follows:-
chain Drive-The life of an exposed rear chain is a relatively short one,
Ijnder favorable conditions, operating on relatively dust free roads, and
providing reg:ular lubrication and adjustment attention, approximately
rs,ooo .rrites may be obtained. under less favorable conditions, chain life
may be as short as 5000 miles, sprocket life similarly varies from ten to
twe'nty thousand miles for the gearbox driving sprocket, and from fifteen
to thirty thousand miles for the rear wheel sprocket.
trurther to the need for frequent replacements, an added disadvantage
of the exposed rear chain drive is that it requires frequent adjustment. on
the average, adjustment is needed at 1000 mile intervals.
The objections to the rear chain drive are almost completely overcome
if enelosed and lubricated. It has been established that chain and sprocket
life, also mileage that can be covered in between adjustments' can be more
than tripled when enclosed and lubricated.
The question arises as to why enclosed and lubrieated rear chain
drives ar6 not being generally provided. There are a combination of
reasons, A rear chain case that will retain oil is more difficult and costly
to produce t.llan it might appear, The matter has been further complicated
with the general adoption of rear spring frames. The difficulties of pro-
viding rear chain enclosure on a spring wheel job are much greater than
on a-rigid rear wheel. It seems certain that enclosed and lubricated rear
chains will appear in the specifications of future models. The advantages
offered certainly offset the cost and production difficulties involved,
chain drive has some attractive features. rt provides some flexibility
in the drive and frictional losses under ideal conditions of lubrication and
adjustment are slightly lower than with shaft and gear drive. A feature
of chain drive is the ease with which gear ratios can be altered, by changing
one sprocket and affecting chain adjustment.
Existing motor layouts with crankshafts transverse to frame, of
course, are particularly adaptable to chain drive.
Shaft Drive--The British Sunbeam and the German B.M.W. are the
two most notable examples of shaft drive motoreycles in production. Its
practicability has been well proved, and it is considered superior even to
the enclosed and lubricated rear chain drive for durabillty and reliability.
A number of factors appear to be withholding widespread adoption of
shaft drive.
Dealing first with the advantages, a well designed shaft and g:ear or
worm and -worm wheel drive, will run for a very great mileage without
attention, other than maintaining the lubricant level. It eliminates frequent
maintenance requirements, and replacements, common to the open rear
ehain drive.
It is most applicable to transverse mountinS: where crankshaft is
lengthwise with frame. In such layouts, one set of bevel gears or a wortn
and-worm vrheel at rear of drive only is required. If used with a conventional
F'E,AT'TJRES OF'MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 45
type of motor mounting with crankshaft across the frame, an additional

set of bevel gears would be required at the front end of drive shaft. As a
result, it is unlikely that manufaeturers will attempt to fit shaft drive to
existing types of machines,
The chief disadvantages of a shaft drive layout existing at present
are the high manufacturing cost, in comparison to the chain drive, and
the complications attached to changing gear ratio, involving changing
the worm and worm wheel or rear drive gear set. Its application to most
existing designs is not practicable. Complete re-designing of the motor
mounting, crankcase, gearbox, and elutch; also substantial changes in
the frame and rear wheel desigrr; are necessary to satisfaetorily incorporate
shaft drive.
Most shaft models produced have been approximately twenty-five
pounds heavier than conventional chain drive models of similar general
specifications. ft is very pro;bable that this weight increase can be mini-
mized, but some weight increase appears inevitable. Total frictional losses
are greater than with chain drive enclosed and lubricated. The slight
increase in frictional power loss, however, is a minor factor that will not
influence the use of shaft drive.
There is little doubt that more shaft drive machines wiU in future be
developed. This drive unquestionably can provide the utmost in satisfaction
and reliability. The greatest opportunity for further application of the
shaft drive appears to be on larger types of touring machines, where some
increase in weight or cost are not a great factor, and maY be well offset
by improved reliability and almost complete elimination of drive main-
tenance.
Frames-seamless steel tubing has been used almost exclusively for
motorcycle frame construction. Brazed joints and forged steel lugs are
most common, although some cast lugs are used. On some models, bolted
up joints are used in preference to brazed joints, but application of bolted
joints on tubular frames is now generally limited to attachment of the
rear frame section to the froht frame section at the seat post.
The single down tube, complete loop tlpe frame is now in most general
use. A few makes employ the duplex cradle type frame. Less favored in
recent years is the single tube type frame utiiizing engine plates and the
crankcase as part of the frame. Although round section tubing is most
generally used, tapered round tubing and oval section tubing are used in
some instances, to provide increased strength and contribute to weight
saving'.
There has been a recent trend to welded joints, particularly on racing
machines, some weight saving being accomplished by the elimination of
the conventional lugs. This method is also being used on some of the light
weight type machines, in the interests of low cost production. ft is probable
thaf ailoy steel tubes with aU welded joints will feature extensively in
frame construction on future machines.
"square Tubing" is a recent development in motorcycle frame con-
struction, Although presenUy only used on a few light weight model frames,
use of square tubing for motorcycle frames will likely be extended. TIle
chief advantages are that it is particularly applicable to butt ioint welding
and the flat surfaces enable the simple attachment of various parts and
accessories by merely drilling and botting, saving the employment of lug:s
generally used on round tube construction.
46 MODERN MOTORCYCLEI DESIGN
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FEATURES OF'MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 47
Pressed steel frame construction has been tested out by a number of

British makes, as well as, on European machines. It is generally recognized
however, that in comparison to tubular frames of equal strength, pressed
steel construction involves increased weight. Pressed steel frame construc-
tion is particularly adaptable to large volume production and for use on
designs that feature more complete enclosure. There is no indication of
any trend towards pressed steel frame constrrrction developing at present.
Velocette 200 c.c. opposed twin is a notable example of pressed steel
frame construction, featuring excellent weather protection. This is a model
designed with a view to large volume production and utility use, There
appears to be little prospect of pressed steel frame construction coming'
into use on sports types or more expensive touring models.
Spring Fr6rnes-Rear frame springing has been steaclily coming into
more extensive use in recent years. Rear springing has proved not only
to provide a substantial increase in riding comfort, but also to improve
road holding, stability, and rear wheel braking, to a very marked degree.
Rear wheel springing enables compar4tively fast motoring on uneven
road surfaces with vastly improved comfort, control and margin of safety.
A wide number of types of rear springing systems have been produced
and a number of new types have come into production in recent years.
The two basic types of spring frames are the straight plunger and the
pivoted fork patterns. Production of these lwo types at present is almost
equally divided.
The straight plunger type spring'ing system offers the advantAge of
simplicity and lowest production cost. It has the disadvantage of varying
the chain tension, and accordingly, the range of movement allowed on
this type of design is generally timited to about one and one-half inches in
compression with about one-half inch for rebound, measured from the
static position,
T'here are a number of variations in the pivoted rear fork type spring
frame designs. A
basic similarity, however is that the pivot is usually
located as close to the gearbox as possible, the objective being to achieve
rear wheel movement in an arc as close as possible to that described
by the radius from the rear wheel axle to the gearbox drive sprocket,
Although the exact arc desired is not achieved with this system, it is
generally sufficiently close to enable use of a rear wheel movement on
I compression of over three inches, without excessive variation in chain
tension.
The Ariel spring frame is notable for the special linkage that provides
I an approximately consta4t chain tension throughout the range of
movement.
i Currently, there is a trend towards the pivoted rear fork type spring
frame, due to the greater range of movement, and better chain tension
characteristics. It is probable, however, that the existing straight
I plunger type spring frames may be developed with a "curved track,,,
to provide wheel movement in the required arc, in relation to the driving
sprocket on gearbox. Although this would complicate the construction
slightly, it would achieve the desirable objective of eliminating chain
tension variations, and would enable a wider range of movement to be
provided.
The Triumph spring wheel is an original design in which the
e4tire str)ringing is incorporated in the large diameter rear hub. This
48 MODERN MOTORCYCLEI DESIGN
destgn offers advantages of extreme lateral rigidity, neatness and

external simplicity. A standard rigid frame model of this .make can be
converted.to a, spring frame machine by merely replaeing with the spring
hub type reai wheel. A feature of the spring hub is that the wheel
movement f,ollows an arc and eliminates chain tension variations.
Disadvantages of the spring hub are its rather limited range of
movement and higher cost in comparison to other rear springing systems.
On most spring frames in current production, coil springs are used
for both load and rebound. Hydraulic control for both extreme load
and rebound is provided on some types; at present, most notably on the
swinging arm or pivoted fork designs. A future trend will likely be
tow'ards the use of "variable rate" load springs, particularly where
hydraulic control is not employed.
. Front Forks-Possibly the most notable development in motorcycle
design in recent years has been the telescopic plunger type front forks.
Although first featured pre-1939 on the racing German B.M.W. machines,
followed by the Norton, the plunger fork design has been substantially
developed by mostly all English manufacturers since 1946, and has
subsequently been adopted on American models. A feature of the
telescopic plunger forks generally, is the rather "soft" main springs
used; overload on extreme compression being absorbed hydraulically,
and rebound also checked w"ith hydraulic control.
Hydraulic control is not generally provided on the lightweight
machines, such as the 125 c.c. and 200 c.c. models. In this class, the
F rancis-Barnett is noteworthy for the "three rate" type of springs
employed. This type of spring:ing provides a very soft action for absorbing
minor road surface irregularities, that might not be absorbed w.ith
standard type springs, particularly when travelling at low speed. As
the finer pitch sections of these springs close up under compression, the
wider pitch sections of the spring are brought into acr-ion, to absorb
heavier loading. This provides a very soft and progressive action.
TRIUMPII "NACEI,LE''
A modern Triumph feature is the lNacelle,"
provlding a streamlineal enclosure for the top
end of front forks and headlight as seen ln
Ill. 15a at rlght, The top of nacelle accom-
modates ln most conveni€nt locatlon, speed-
ometer, ammeter, light switctr and lgnition
cutout button as shown below.
EEATURES OF'MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 49
On this particular type, rebound is cheeked by attaching the spring

ends to the lower fork leg and the top member. The main spring
functioning as a compression spring on load also acts as an extension
spring to check rebound.
Dowty oleo-matic forks differ from the conventional plunger forks
in that no springs are used. There is a supply of oil in each leg and an air
valve somewhat similar to an ordinary tire valve, which enables the air
.supply in the forks to be adjusted, This Iayout offers the advantage of
b-eing able to adjust the air supply to take care of extra load. Although
there are no springs that can break or weaken in this layout, the oil-air
seals can deteriorate and when this occurs, frequent addition of air to
the forks is usualty necessary until replacements are made,
An existing shortcoming of most plunger fork designs is the rather
rapid wear of the sliding bushings due to water and dirt entering past
I the seals. Some lightweight models feature rubber bellou* type covers
over the joint between lower leg and upper section. More general
application of this feature, or other effective method of dirt and water
exclusion, is generally required.
The general advantages offered by the plunger type forks over the
Iinkage type previously used are a much extended range of movement,
providing increased comfort, and notably improved steering and road
holding characteristics.
I
Additional advantages are elimination of tink spindle greasing
I requirements and adjustments.
Vyheels @nd Rims-Design of wheels has undergone little change

for some years. Drop centre type rims are in universal use, 18,, and 19,,
being the most popular sizes. It is considered that the future trend in
the matter of wheel sizes will be to smaller diameter rims. On racing
machines, the 20" a.nd. 2L" rim sizes commonly used have reeently been
replaced by 18" and 19" sizes, to achieve slight advantage by lowering
height and reducing frontal area.
In America, on the heav5rweight machines, the 16,, rim, using
a 5.00'section tire, replacing the original 18" rim with 4.00,, tire, has been
universal for some years. The 5" section tire gives iacreased riding
comfort and traction, but is by no means a satisfactory substitute for
the spring frame. These large section tires are considered to minimize
danger of skidding under certain conditions, and to enable the crossing
of wet tram rails to be undertaken with less hazard. However, it is
conceded that they are not as safe as smaller section tires for very
high speed driving and they are notably at a disadvantage for higl
speed cornering.
In England, the Sunbeam, using 16', rims with 4.25" front and 4.b0,,
rear tires, is the first English machine using a tire larger than 4.00,,, as
standard equipment.
The most suitable tire size is dependent on overall weight and
operating condition factors. For all round use,4.00,, rear and B.EO,| section
front tires are considered a good compromise for medium to heav5nrreight
machines.
An advantage:that may be realized from the use of smaller diameter
wheels on standard maehines is that they will enable spring mounted
50 MODEIRN MOTORCYCT EI DESIGN
dual_seats to be used, and yet provide slighily Iower saddle height than
can be achieved with such equipment on exis[ing designs.
- wire spoke tlpe wheels are used almost exclusively. with smalrer
diameter wheels, it is probable that some disc patteins will appear.
Their use, however, will likely be timited to lower powered utility machines,
and heavier models. F or high performance machines of light or medium
weight, however, there is tittte tit<eurrood of existing wirJ spoke wheels
being replaced, due to the bad effect that crosswinds mig:ht have on
steering at high speeds.
Brakes-Internal expanding shoe type brakes are used for both front
and rear wheels universally. Ribbed brake drums are widely used. to
provide maximum drum rigidity and cooling. Cast iron aioy brake
drums have generally been found superior to pressed steei types.
Aluminum brake shoes are widely used, particularly on British models,
Coupled brakes have been employed, but only independenily operated
brake controls are now being produced. Self-energizing tJrce brales are
not in general use.
Controls are usually by rod for rear brake to foot pedal with a wing
nut adjustment, and by cable from handlebar lever for front with knurled
hand adjuster.
. Average motorcycle braking efficiency is considered quite adequate;
using both brakes, a number of current models can be itoppea within
thirty feet from thirty m.p.h. on dry paved. road surface.
VYheel Bearings-Four types of Wheel bearings are employed:_
(a) BaU bearing cup and cone t5,1re (adjustable).
(b) BaIl bearing journal tlpe (non-adjustable).
(c) Roller Uearlng, tapere-il-type (adjustable).
(d) Roller beariqg, straight roller type (end play only adjustable).
. The tapered roller bearing type are generalry considered the most
satisfactory. Given occasional adjustment, replacement is seldom ever
neeessary. A-ll current types of wheel bearing:s are very satisfactory and
unless grossly neglected, wheel bearing failure is very rar6.
Considefable improvement could be effected in the wheel bearing
on many ma_chines. Effective bearing seals are important to bearing
s.e-als-
life for water and dirt exclusion and to brake lining life and efficiency-,
for grease retention. Grease worki"i p".f *neel bearings on to linings
_
is not an uncommon cause of impaired braking efficiency.
Lighting Equipment-six volt negative grounded batteries have been
standard equipment on all British and American makes for some years.
During 1951 and 7952, a number of Brttish models have changed. over to
positive battery ground, and it appears that this trend will Jpread. The
positive gTound reduces battery terminal corrosion.
Battery capacities on British moders are generally thirteen amp. hours,
while on the larger American twin models, cipacities of from twenty-two
to thirty amps. are in use.
sealed beam headlamps have been in use on American equipment for
some years' but have noi been g"""*"iiy on British machines.
flaln "dopted
Durb capacities generally range from twenty-four to thirty_two
candlepower.
voltage regulator equipment introduced on British machines in 19g2,
is in g'eneral use on British models, but has not yet been universally applied
to American equipment.
F'EATURES OT'MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 51
_ Although voltage regulator equipment is not standard on the Harley-

Davidson twin models, it should be noted that these generators are fitted
with two field coils, one of which is in operation at all times; the second
field coil being energized when the lights are in use, providing an increased
charging rate to compensate for the light load. This arrangement has
proved hlghty satisfactory over a period of many years.
It is expected that a trend will develop towards alternating current
type generators with rectifier equipment. These offer some advantages,
the winding being stationary, and eliminating the conventional cornmutator
and brushes. when built into the engine crankcase, this arrangement elimi-
nates the normal generator drive and bearings, etc.; also saies space and
weight.
controls-F'lexible stranded wire type control cables are used on all
handlebar controls on British machines, and also on front brake and handle-
bar clutch controls on American models. Ttris type of cable provides for
more flexibility than the single wire type, atthough it is notable that the
single piano wire type throtue contr.ol has been used for a great many
years on American made machines, on which application it has proved more
durable than the stranded wire type.
- rtreliability
plete
iq surprising that some manufacturers have not yet achieved com-
of control cable nipple fixing. The occasional ,,pulling off,,
of a_control cable nipple still occurs. There is general room for irirprovement
in the fixing of control cable nipples, to enlsure complete free-dom from
prrlling off, and reduced tendency for the stranded type wires to fraSr near
the handlebar end nipple,
Saddles-Saddle de.slgl has undergone litfle ehang.e for many years.
F or
solo riding, British models are equipped witn sfring mattr"ess soft
top type saddles, with either frat top or slightry raised-baci rest. This type
of saddle provides a fair degr_ee of riding comfbrt, but can be substantiaiy
improved on the averag'e machine, by using lo4ger and softer main spring!
and increasing the height of the saddle nose accoidingly.
one of the chief faults with existing saddle attachments on.tsritish
machines is that the pivot is not located sufficienily far enough forwara;
an app-reciably more forward. saddle pivot position combinea -witrr long.er
and,softer springs, would contribute a great deal towards improvea rialng
comfort.
"Farrel" type springs have recenily come into use, and these are a
notable improvement, providing a more frogressive springing.
For passenger carrying on British models, a variety
guard fitting PiIIion seats have been produced. one ot oftt
tlpes of mud-
is that typ".
mounted on "-r"tt""
four coil springs with a spriqg mattress top and
raised back rest. None of the pillion ieats producua, tio*".,r"",-;;"-;;
sidered to give a highry satisfactory standird of rid.ing - .;;:
"o-rt"t.-
"Duar ,Seats" or "Twin seats" are now being produced for various
British models. These are generally cohstructed o1 iir ceit-toam rubber
end are rigidty mounted to the frime. Atthough these seais p"""ial"ii"
advantage of a closer-up riding position than achieved with the pillion
seat, the lack of spring suspension is a distinct shortcoming. on a Lacr,irre
fitted with a good rear spring frame, a fair stand.ara ot riaing comiort is
achieved. on rigid frame models, however, these seats cannot b*e considered
to give anSrthing approaching a smooth ride on rough surface conditions.
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F'EATUR,ES OE MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 53
Spring mounted dual seats for British machines are considered an

overdue development. It is somewhat difficult to prbvide these on existing
machines, without slightly higher saddle height than desirable, but the
disadvantage of any increase in saddle height is felt to be well offset by
the increased riding comfort that can be achieved by spring mounting.
I As general re-design proves possible, it is probable that tanks will be
shortened somewhat to enable a rather more forward position of attaeh-
ment. An overload type springing system that can be put into operation
when a passeng:er is carried, as used on American Buddy seats, or a pro-
g:ressive springing system that will automatically take eare of extra load,
appea.r to be most desirable and needed developments.
Better saddles have been fitted to American machines for many years.
These have been of the bucket pan type with rubber padding and leather
covering, on a steel base, Besides additional comfort, this saddle top retains
its shape and appearanee much better than the spring mattress English
type saddle.
Ifarley-Davidson are notable for their spring seat post saddle sus-
pension, using' a number of springs of varied rating, providing a very
progressive action. The shock absorbing qualities of this type of saddle
suspension with the fairly well forward pivot, are outstanding.
I
The "Buddy Seat" is highly recommended for extensive riding on
American type machines. It provides for better stability and control with
a passeng:er than achieved urith separate rea.r seating:. Passenger riding
comfort is unexcelled, although this is achieved with a slight sacrifice
in driver comfort.
Eiiling Position-A variety of riding positions are provided on current
models, determined chiefly by the type ot handlebars fitted. American
,L machines have generally been fitted with handlebars providing a higher,
wider, and more rearward position of the grips, than has been the case
I
with British machines,
In recent years, there has been a trend to what are termed "Western"
handlebars, and these are now being fitted to the majority of British
machines. These provide a more comfortable and relaxed riding position,
than is achieved with standard equipment handlebars, They are particularly
an advantag'e where a Buddy Seat or a Dual Seat is fitted, that gives a
hlgher than standard saddle position.
I
Footrest position is generally directly below the front end. of saddle;
although provided with a rang'e of adjustment on most models, the scope
L of movement is rather limited by the rear brake and foot change pedal
positions.
The touring type riding position common to American models, with
forward located footboards, is very suitable for long distance travel on
smooth highways, but does not afford the rider a maximum measure of
control over the machine on rough surface conditions, or high speed travel.
There is a trend towards replacing footboards with more reanMard posi-
tioned footrests.
Accessory Equipment
A number of extremely useful accessories that are not standard
equipment are available for fitting to any type of machine. These include
such items as spotlights, saddle bags, sa.fety guards, leg shields and wind-
shields. There are also various non-functional ornamental devices available.
Air cleaners-An efficient air creaner is an important factor pro-

longing motor tife and especiauy in reaucin! ;;i;;i;fi;i""]-pi"tor, in
and piston wear. This applies most particuraily where ;;"hi;; is oi""u.t"a
,r.,s
off paved roads, and under dusty conditions. in recent y"u"",-.i"
have become standard equipment on most modets "i".rr"r"
*"tlr""y"f,s, ana
olvne-rs machines produced prior to air cleaner "t"
-of
standardized wil generaly find that the rater tvpe aiiciea"",
"quip-u"i"b"-.o*irrg
u["ip*u"t
is available and can be fitted to their machines.
With a few rare exceptions, air cleaner equipment reduces maximum
sp.eed slightry, but by fitting the most suitable -carburetor *.i" -Jut
which may be anywhere from one to four sizes smauer than "ro""rru,
without air cleaner, the. maximum performance loss will be minimized, ,rr"
space limitations in existing aesig-ns prevent the instalation
cleaner equipment of really adequaie pr-oportions or, .o*u *"dA..of air
when opportunity for re-design occurs, manufacturers wilI no doubt,
provide for more air cleaner space. The types of creaners rn most
-
general use at present feature copper screen mesn, tett or fabric eilments.
These clea-ners, although a definite asset under dusty co"aitionsl-lequire
frequent cleaning, and are onl5; partially effective "
f""ri"-tifi""lG.
Oil bath type air cleaners,._ combining both oil bath and mesh type
filtering of large capacity, similar to tho"se in use o"
been developed for motorcycles and very successfully applied 1r"""
""to.iori'r"Jr,
to-*ifita.y
models. These units have proved most effectiv" i" i.ar^"i"g-*o1or'r"ur".
The large dimensions of this type of air cleaner, however, rEquires-remote
mounting from carbur:to".:". existing desig:rs, connecting
tubing. rt seems probable with flexikrle
.that..oil natir typ6 air cleaners i,nrr
feature in motorcycle specifications. "u*trrruy
Ilt. 1?
SAFDTY GUARD II'ITE

TELESCOPIC PR,OP ST.{\D
One of the latest developments in motor-
eycle accessories, this special design s:fet],
guard combined with telescopic prop stand
provides the dder and machine protection
offered by the regular safety guard as s.e1l
as the convenience of a prop stand. -{ fea-
ture of this stand is that it is adjustable
for height, enabling the machine !o be
parked at any desired amount of,,1ean,,
and compensating for uneven or soft ground.
Pressing a trigger lever springs stand up
out of use.
1*
I'EATURTS OI' MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 55
Gasoline B'ilters-sediment bowl type gas (petrol) filters are not in

general motorcycre use and are rong oviidue-. Need for
carburetor creaning
and trouble with float overflooding, jet plugging anA-i"""gutar
-valvewater,
performance resurting from dirt* and ,u"i-pr-"tictes
carburetor from fuel tank, can be armost completery -eriminatedreaching
good fuel filter. with a
sa'fety G,ards-These are one of the most popular motorcycre

accessories. They are considered to offer some measure o,f leg protection
desirable in heavy traffic conditions, and also in the
9n the heavier t)?e of machines. one of the ratest satety
".,r9rrt-3t'-.tiAairrg,
nar
features a telescoping- plunger prop stand, adjustable" io, aesign-s fr"igirt.
operation of. a trigger lever releases ihis stand *ti"r, i" roaded,
and automatically returns to the closed up position. "p""g.
r To ensure effectiveness.of safety bars, it is most essential that they
be securely attached to motorcycle irame.'
R'ear view Mirror-This usefur and almost essential accessory un-

fortunate.Iy is not yet standard motorcycle equipment. ,0."""""o"y *i""or"
are readily available,.-however, and titting this equipment is" strongly
recommended. Generally the most suitablJ mirror -position is mounted
on the left handleba.r in as high and as far to irre ruti po.itio" a.
possible. sometimes it is advisable to compromise on tiru
mirror from handlebar to avoid excessive mirror vibration. ai.tu"-"" Ii
wintlshiekls-There is a very wide variety of motorcycre windshierds

marketed. Although considered io be somewhat of an ericumberance for
sporting riding; for stricily utility purposes, the wihdshield is a very
desirable accessory. The sports type winasnields offer titfle rnore
tnan
face protection, and to avoid an -u-ndesirable ,,up_draft,,, a tower'.p.on
extending to the level of bottom of tank is desirable.
ft should be appreciated that windshields, except of the smallest
sports type, increase wind resistance, and wir"r, -Lg.alnst
ofe""ting
h1a$
-'*1ind
especially, can cause motor overheating. rt is generanya
advisable to reduce cruising speed 5 or 10 m.p.h. with; winasni8ta, rrom
what is considered the maximum safe cruising speed without
a windshield.
care should be taken in attaching windshields to ensure adequately
tightened. A windshierd roosening *rrfi" o" ii," road can s""ior.iy=
Tendengy towards vibrat'ion is a common fault of the attachment .rp."t
llYllq:
arrq aesrg'n of some windshields, and effort shourd be
this; otherwise, life of plastic made to avoid
"".tior,
;rt b" very short.
Windshield should be, fitted low_ as practicable. The general poticy
is to set height so that it is just.aspossible to toot< orru" itr" firi"i.ti"ra
normar riding. A rearward incrination of 10 or 15 degrees at tire to"
generally most suitable, and wiu divert the air c,rr""lrrt over 10p is
head.
the rider,s
Leg Shields-These provide very desirable weather protection

are most usefur for preventing front wheer .,spray,' wt.n t.arreit.rgand
on
wet roads, from reaching the.rider,s-clothing. Leg shields extenAing up
slightly above the level- of the windshieta 'apronl in conjunction with
windshield equipment; provides the best measure'of weatlier protection
that can be achieved on motorcycles of present design.
56 MODERN MOTORCYCLE} DESIGN
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BRITISH MODELS 57
., Various patterns of attractively curved leg shields are available,

that can be clamped to the frame front down tube. Where so fitted,
secure attachment is essential so that there is no d.anger of loosening,
and- jamming between front mudguard and frame tube. when in operation;
such can cause complete loss of control
Saddle Bags-A wide variety of saddle bags for motorcyeles are

produced. Eor the installation of these bags where it is not possible to
obtain a set made for the machine in question; it should be noted that
on spring frame models, the bags are arranged so as to provide clearance
for the rear wheel movement, particularly the rear axle nuts and brake
arm. Otherwise, saddle bags will be rapidly worn through.
Spotltghts-Various types of handlebar fitting spotlights are available.
These are considered to be a very desirable accessory by many, but it
should be noted that on the average machine, the generator output is not
sufficient to sustain both main headlight and spoflight, except at fairly
high speeds.
Spotlights are best connected to the tail light terminal of main switch,
fn this way, light can be operated in any of the main light positions, but
there will be no danger of battery being discharged by spoltigrrt switch
being left on or turned on while the main switch il off. -
Prop Sta,nds-Prop stands, commonly known as Jiffy stands, are
now in fairly general use on British models. They have been featured
on American models for a great many years. On a number of types, prop
stands are attached by a clamp to frame tube. Most secure tightening
of the clamp bolts is essential; otherwise, a slackening may occur and
stand clamp will pivot on frame tube, allowing the machine to topple over.
A worthwhile innovation on prop stands is to attach a ,.foot,, to
the bottom of stand; something in the nature of a 2,, square plate is
generally suitable. This will prevent sinking into soft ground, On
some t54)es, where stand is difficult to put into operation from saddle,
attaching a suitable length of strap iron to stand foot, projecting up, will
greatly increase ease of operating stand.
Section 3
BBITISH MODEI"S
A. wide range of makes and models has always been a feature of
the British motorcycle industry. over twenty motorcycle manufacturers
are now producing an extensive variety of machines offering a wide
choice of engine size, performance, and design features. Tlie makes
featuring in current motorcycle production in England are: A.J.S.,
Ambassador, Ariel, B.S.A., Dot, Douglas, Exeelsior, Francis-Barnett,
James, Matchless, Norman, Norton, O.E.C., panther, Royal-Elnfield,
Scott, Sun, Sunbeam, Tandom, Triumph, Velocette, and Vincent.
British motorcycles have steadily been gaining in popularity through-
out North America in recent years. The British machines now in most
extensive use &re B.S.A., Triumph, Ariel, A.J.S., Matchless, Norton,
Royal-Enfield, and Vincent. Dr the light weight class, the E'raneis-Barnett
and James are most prominent.
Amongst the distinctive characteristics of British models generally,

are high power to weight ratios, high efficiency type O.H.V. motors,
four speed foot change gearboxes and handlebar clutch control. In
comparison to past American production, smaller piston displacement
and less overall w'eight are general.
In this chapter, some of the typical and outstanding British models
are illustrated together with specifications and performance figures. The
models produced by some of the more prominent makes are also briefly
reviewed.
Ariel-Ariel is one of the oldest motorcycle manufacturers, being in
existence at the turn of the century. The current range features O.H.V.
single models of 350 c.c. and 500 c.c. si.zes, a 600 c.c. side valve single,
500 c.c. O.H.V. twin, and the 1000 c.c. "square Four.,,
Ariels came into their greatest prominence in 1931-32, when the
"Square I'our" motor and "Red Hunter,, single models were first
introduced. The "Red Hunter" single models, especially popular rvith
sporting motorcyclists, remained relatively unchanged for many years.
The latest version of this model now features an aluminum alloy cylinder
block and head.
The Ariel 500 c.c. O.H.V. twin model features a self tensioning
duplex chain drive to the camshafts, alloy conneeting rods with replaceable
big-end bearing shells; roller bearing drive side and plain timing side
,crankshaft bearings are used. Lubrication is by gear type oil pump.
Not designed for highest maximum performance, this model is notable
for silent running and relatively good torque throughout the average
speed range.
The "Square Four" ranks as one of the most unique motorcycle designs
ever produced. The first model produced in 1931 was of 500 c.c. size of
chain driven overhead camshaft design. In 1932, displacement was increased
to 600 c.c. With slight variation, chiefly in the oiling system, the original
design was produced through to 1936. The twin crankshafts were coupled
by centrally located, gears of substantial proportions. BalI main shaft L
bearings and roller big-end bearings were used. These motors \yere very t
compact, and provided excellent all-round performance, high r.p.m.
capabilities, and smooth running. Dismantling and re-assembling rvas not
difficult, but called for a measure of skill and precision.
In 1937, the X'ours were re-designed. The new layout pror-ided for
simplified production and maintenance; also improved cooling. The nrain
differences in construction from the early models were the emplolrnent
of forg:ed aluminum alloy con-rods, with split white metal lined big-ends,
plain lined bearing on the timing side of crankshafts, and roller bearings
on the drive side. An overhead, valve design was adopted with the cam-
shaft centrally located high up in the crankcase, chain driven, replacing
the chain drive overhead camshaft previously used. This new tlpe tr our
was introduced in 600 c.c. and 1000 c.c. sizes, but since 1989, his been
produced in the 1000 c.c. size only.
Maintenance work on the new design, sueh as removing and replacing
the head and block for valve and piston servicing is very itraightforv'ard
and does not involve disturbing the timing as on the earlier overhead
camshaft models.
Premature magneto trouble and high speed misfiring is a trouble
associated with the ignition system on Ariel tr'our machines up to and
including 1948. This is due to the type of magneto employed not being
I
f
I
BRITISH MODELS 59
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60 MODEIRN MOTORCYCLE DESIGN
suited for engine speed operation on a motor of such r.p.m. characteristics.

E requent magneto overhaul, armature and breaker point replacements
are generally necessary on models of this type, where the performance
capabilities are utilized.
Sinee 1949, a new type ignition system has been in use, featuring a
large capacity generator, with automatic advance distributor, and coil
ignition. This system has proved highly satisfactory. A new tlpe of
c-on-rod, with replaceable big-end bearing' shells, came into use on 1948
models. This was a desirable change as with the earlier type rods, llith
the white metal lining directly on the aluminum, there was a tendency
for the bearing metal to break away from the rod, due to the poor bond'
The new type rods can be used in eariier motors. ,]
In 1949, an aluminum cylinder block and cylinder head were fitted'

These accomplished an appreciable saving in weight, and effected some
reduction in cylinder block and cylinder head temperatures. Cooling, horv-
ever, even on the cast iron blocks and heads, had always been reasonably
satisfactory. The cylinder blocks now used feature iron alloy sleeves
pressed in, and similar valve seat inserts. Shortcomings were experienced
with the 1949 and early 1950 !'our models, in the matter of cylinder head
joint reliability, due to the inadequate stud dimensions and "section" of
material in the area of head joint. Subsequent modifications have relieved
this trouble,
The present "Square tr'our" models provide such desirable character-
istics as easy starting, vibrationless running and excellent acceleration.
Less pleasing features are: mechanical noise which is considered excessive;
there is also a tendency towards "coupling gear" noise developing rrhen
hot, due to crankcase expansion, increasing g'ear centre spacing. Cylinder
block replacing is a rather tricky operation, and the present design of
cylinder head fixing is not nearly as easy to service as that prer"iously
used. Low oil pressure readings developing at an early mileage indicate
the need for either a larger capacity oil pump or initially reduced tolerance
on connecting rod bearings,
Basically, the "Square Four" represents a very attractive motorcl'cle
design, but to provide the standard of, reliability and performance expected
of this class of machine on this continent, changes are necessary, notably
in the cylinder head design, oil pump capacity, and reduction of mechaaical
noise.
An outstanding feature available on all Ariel models for many )'ears
is the spring frame. Of plunger design, this features a special linkage
arrangement that provides for rear wheel movement in an arc that main-
tains chain tension; combined with the Ariel telescopic forks, rvhich protide
a very soft and progressive action; excellent riding eomfort is provided.
Improvement in the present design of Ariel prop stands, hou'erer, is much
needed.
B.S.A.*B.S.A. have been the world's largest motorcycle manufacturers

for a great many years. An extensive rang'e of machines has ahval's been
produced. Current production includes the well known 125 c.c. Bantam
model; 250 c.c. S.V. and O.H.V. singles; 350 c.c. and 500 c.c. O.H.V. singles;
500 e.c. S.V. singles; and 500 c.c. and 650 c.c. O.H.V. vertical tlvins.
In past years, B.,S.A. also produced "V" twins of 500, 750 and 1000 c.c.
capacity. In 1934, a model of outstanding interest was built. It was of
standard 500 c.c. O.H.V. single desigl with a special crankcase incorporat-
ing the Daimler fluid "fl1'wheel." This design did not go into production,
BRITISH MODELS 61
due to mahufacturing cost, a conservative motorcycle public and the hlgh

deg'ree of satisfaction being obtained from the standard four speed positive
foot shift gearbox that had already come into eommon use.
In 1938, B.S.A. made a notable advancement by introducing automatic
igrrition advance on the coil ignition equipped 250 S.V. and O.H.V. models.
Ttris followed car praetice, and of course, completely eliminated the manual
ignition control, This has proved very satisfactory and subsequently has
been widely adopted.
In 1938, the "Gold Star" a 500 c.c. O.H.V. single motor of new design
was introduced, This featured aluminum alloy cylinder barrel and head,
with cylinder liner and valve seat inserts; one of the earliest standard type
machines to feature this construction, which accomplished a notable
improvement in the high speed cruising capabilities, and weight reduction.
Tho most recent models in the B.S.A. ra^nge are the 500 c.e. and 650
c.c. O.H.V. vertical twin machines, The power curve characteristics of
theso eng:ines feature exceptionally good torque throughout the speed
rang:e as well as better than averag:e maximum B,II.P. figures. Amongst
the features of these twin designs are eylinder block castings incorporating
push rod tunnels, eliminating separate push rod tubes; these provide for
adequate air flow between the cylinders. The cylinder head design also
provides for an air flow pattern that provides the best possible cooliqg.
Crankshaft is a one piece steel forging with bolted on central flyi;vheel.
Connecting rods are of forged aluminum alloy, with replaceable big-end
bearing shells,
The cylinder head combustion chamber is of shallower desiglr than
the common hemispherical pattern. Included angle between the valves is
somewhat less than previously used, and this enables a concave top piston
to be used in the standard 6.5:1 ratio, and a flat top piston in the 7.25:1
ratio on the 650 e.c. model, without need for valve clearance cut-aways
in the piston crown.
An excellent feature of these engines is the oil feed to the cams. The
crankcase easting provides an oil trough, supplied from the oil pump, into
which cams dip, providing a standard of cam lubrication not achieved in
other eng:ines of this type. This feature contributes to quiet running' as
well as long life of camshaft and cam followers. The cam design on the
B.S.A. twin models features a very gradual lift, and achieves quietness with
f a tappet clearance of .010".
Compensating skirt pistons featuring circumferential slots at the
top of skirt, at front and back, and also a partially split skirt, enable
exceptionally close piston fitting, providing silence without danger of
seizure.
The latest B,S.A. model is a competition 500 c.c. Star TVrin. This is
basically built the same as the 650 c.c. motor, except for the reduced bore
and stroke dimensions. It features a single 1Xo" bore Amal TT type car-
buretor, and provides the remarkable power output of approximately
45 B.H.P. at 6800 r,p.m.
Douglas-The original Douglas company was one of the pioneers in

the motorcycle industry and contributed considerably to the development
of the opposed "l'lat Twin." With some ups and downs, this make was
generally one of the most successful and popular from 190?-1930. Many
successes were achieved in races and hill climbs as well as on the dirt
I
track during this period. Vibrationless running at all speeds, smoothness,
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BRITISH MODELS 63
more than average ground clearance combined with very low centre of
gravity, moderate weight and ease of handling characterized these models.
tr'inancial difficulties caused several suspensions in production in the
thirties; a number of machines were produced that were not up to standard
in quality and workmanship and the make rapidly lost the confidence and
consequent popularity of the motorcycling public.
The Douglas "Endeavour" was produced in limited quantities during
1935-36, It ranks as one of the most outstanding motorcycle designs;
its specifications representing the ideal of many motorcyclists. The
motor was of 500 c.c side valve opposed twin design transversely
mounted in the frame. Aluminum cylinders with liners and aluminum
heads were used. I'our speeds and final shaft with enclosed bevel gears
provided the drive. Chains were completely eliminated.
Despite the introduction of this outstanding model, Douglas did
not achieve a successful comeback and the failure seems to have been
mainly due to building down to a price rather than to a maintained
consistent st-andard of quality. Imperfections in some minor details
marred the performance of the Endeavour but it was basically quite
sound and provided great possibilities.
The Douglas history clearly illustrates the fact that although design
is an important requisite to success, it must be supported by maintained
high standards of quatity, exhaustive testing and detail perfection.
These factors, combined with a really live factory organization in close
contact with their dealers and riders, are essential to making even the
most brilliant design a lasting sporting and commercial success.
. Since 1946, the re-organized Doug.las company has been producing
a high quelity 350 c.c. O.H.V. transverse twin of a new design. This
I model features torsion bar rear frame springing and plunger forks
incorporating long bottom links pivoted at the rear of the fork legs;
the axle being attached to the front end of these 1inks. A very high
degree of riding comfort and road. holding is provided by this unique
I springing system.
The present 350 c.c. O.H.V. Douglas twin motor is of very high
efficiency design. It features two carburetors and develops 20 B.H.p.
at 6000 r.p.m. with a compression ratio of 7:1. Sports models are also
produced listed at 25 B.H.P. and 28 B.H.p. at 6000 r.p.m. on Z.2b
and 8.25:1 compression ratios. Although this Douglas model has final
rear chain drive, the layout is such that it would be very adaptable to
use of shaft gear drive.
An entirely new 500 c.c. O.H.V. Douglas transverse twin model
has been built and the proto-type machine is illustrated on page 46.
specifications of this model have not yet been released, but the diitinctive
feature, it will be observed, is the exceedingly smooth motor lines.
A.B.C.-Extinct for over thirty years, but of historical interest in
the matter of motorcycle desig.n development, are the A.B.C. machines.
This make came into prominence in 1919, with the introduction of a
very advanced design. The motor was a 898 c.c. O.H.V. transversely
mounted in the frame. Car type gearbox and clutch were in unit
construction with the motor. The specifications included spring frame
(leaf springing to front forks and rear frame), .,Spil1guard,, frame
design; a duplex cradle type frame of wide proportions giving protection
to the rider and projecting cylinders.
64 MODEIRN MOTORCYCLE! DEISIGN
Unfortunately the A.B.C. was marketed without sufficient testing

and development. Consequently many models that proved unsatisfactory
reached the public. The company was enveloped in financial difficulties
and eeased produetion before the deficiefcies could be rectified and the
make re-established. Theoretically, the design of the A.B.C. was at the
time, considered a close approach to perfection, but its history not unlike
that of the Douglas concern, serves to emphasize that even the most
brilliant designs must be developed to a sou4d degree of perfection
before reaching the public, or they are doomed to failure.
Excelsior-The Excelsior range features 98 c.c., 125 c.c. and 200 c.c.
single cylinder two stroke models, and a 250 c.c. twin cylinder two stroke.
Telescopic forks are standard equipment, and rear frame springing is
available on the L25 c.c, and larger machines. Pre-1940, the Excelsior
company produced many notable four stroke machines, including a range
of sports and racing O.H.C. 250, 350, and 500 c.c, models.
Francis-Barnett-Francis-Barnett has long been associated with the
exclusive production of light weight motorcycles, using Villiers engines.
Current production includes 725 c.c, and 200 c.c. models.
One of the most outstanding machines produced by X-'rancis-Barnett,
the "Cruiser," introduced in 1934, featured exceptional rveather protection
in the form of a streamlined motor enclosure and the use of very large t-
,:l
valanced mudguards, The "nose" of the motor enclosure was provided by
the large, polished, cast aluminum exhaust expansion chamber of stream-
lined shape. This also eontributed to a very pleasant exhaust note, not
normally associated with two stroke motors,
The engine enclosing shields were quickly removable, giving excellent
accessibility to the motor and gearbox. Although not re-introduced t
since the suspension of civilian motorcycle production in 1940, it is \
considered that there is a substantial future for a machine of this t1pe,
preferably with a four stroke engine; offering good weather protection and
being much cleaner to ride than the average machine.
The spring suspension of E rancis-Barnett machines is probably their
most outstanding feature at present. The telescopic plunger front forks
feature a "three rate" spring, which provides a very soft and progressive
spring action without the aid of hydraulic control, The recentiy introduced
rear springing system is of the pivoted fork type, utilizing two telescoping
spring legs, ineorporating hydraulic shock absorbers. This type of rear
springing system has previously only been available on larger and more
expensive models.
James-The James range includes the g8 c.c. two speed model, 725 c.c.
and 200 c.c. three speed, machines, all fitted with Viliiers engines.
Telescopic forks are fitted to the 125 c.c. and larger machines and rear
springing of the plunger type is optional on these models.
Matchless-A.J.S.-These makes are both products of Associated
Motorcycles Ltd. The standard models are 350 c.c. and 500 c.e. O.H.V.
singles, and a 500 c.c, O.H.V. twin. The Matchless and A.J.S. models have
been of generally identical specifications, except for minor details. The
chief distinguishing feature between these two brands in the single range
for some years prior to 1952, was the position of the magneto. On
Matchless models, this was located at the rear of the eylinder, and on
A.J.S. machines, at the front. E or 1952, a front position magneto was
BRITISH MODELS 65
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B 8893 33
standardized on both Matchless and A.J.s., with the objective of improving
accessibility to the generator mounted -unusual
in the rather po"ition ai
the rear of erankcase.
The well known Matchiess "teledraulic" plunger forks introduced on
the 1942 Matchless miiitary moder, are featured in both makes. The
rear springing system optional on the single models and standard on
the twin machines, features teledraulic legs and pivoted rear fork
design. This provides a particularty soft and progressive suspension that
is considered to be one of the very best available.
Two racing models are produced. under the A.J.S. brand; the 850 c.c.
o.H.c. single features a chain driven overhead camshaft, as used on
A.J.s. machines of many years ago. Arthough produced in rimited
quantities, this rnachine is available to the public, and features the latest
racing developments. A power output of over thirty B.H.p, on gasoline
is achieved.
The 500 c.c' racing A.J.s. twin motor is a speciar machine that has
not been available to the public; only a few special models have been
produced. The cylinder layout is that of the ,tertical twin,, t1pe, but
as the motor is mounted with the cylinder horizontal, it may -t" *ore
correctly described as a horizon+-al parallel twin. Firing interrials, as on
the vertical twin machines, are an even 860 degrees.
- originally
substantial
built for use with a supercharger, this motor is of most
construction throughout. The forged steel crankshaft features
a plain type centre bearing, and roller drive and timing side bearings.
Plain type big-end bearings and aluminum alloy connlcting rods are
used. The motor and gearbox are of unit construciion design }eaturing a
gear primary drive. The twin overhead camshafts are dri\ien by a train
of gears and operate tappets direcily on the vaive ends, erimin-ating use
of rockers. Immense rigidity is an outstanding feature of this design.
The standard model A.J.s. and Matchless vertical twins are of more
conventional pattern and the only similarity to the racing twin is the
central crankshaft main bearing.
Past Matchless and A.J.S. productions include many very notable
models, The Matchless silver Arrow 400 c.c, narrow angle irono-block .,v,'
twin, and the Sitver Hawk 600 c.c. O.H.C. .,V,, four riodels, produced in
ttre early thirties, represented two of the most outstanding^motorcycle
designs ever produced. Both models featured spring frames o1 the pivoted
rearJork design, using two barrel type comp"esiion rings Iocated unher -"he
saddJe, and incorporating hand adjustabre friction dampers. A rubber frame
pivot bearing was used. This design provided a large range of rear wheel
mov-ement and progressive action, giving smooth riding u-nder all surface
conditions.
Extreme motor smoothness was a further characteristic of these
remarkable models. Although discontinued due to lack of demand-f.om a
conservative motorcycling public during the period of g.eneral trade reces-
sion, these models were unquestionably far in advance*ot ttreir tirrie.
1000 c.c. models of conventional design were produced by both
Matchless and A.J.s. for many years pre-1940. A-machine or clnsii-eraure
interest was the A.J.S. b00 c.c. O.H.C. racing ,,V,, tour p"oO"""A i"
1938-39, first in air cooled, and finally, liquid cooled form.
Norton-No other make has concentrated so extensively on producing
road racing motorcycles and participating in internationi,t -roio-"u"i"s
BRITISH MODELS 67
events for many years as the Norton, who have achieved an unrivarled
record of suceesses in international road raees.
Motoreycle races such as the famous Isle of Man T.T. and Grand prix,
as well as other continental European events, have been a veiy splciatizeo
business for the past_ twenty years, To achieVe consistent sirccess, it
became necessary for_the-manufacturer to produee speciar raeing-rnachines,
departing considerabry frorn design and materiaf specificati"ons of the
standard production moders. These factors, combined with the need for
diverting resources ngeded for regular production to the opurrtio, of u
raeing dep-artment, retaining experl ridefs and the question is to
whether
rne expenditure involved could not be better invested in development more
closely related to conditions of normar use, no doubt contributed to most
manufacturers withdrawing from direct partieipation in racing.
credit is due to Nortons for making the successfur speciarty
have out of manufacturing. and sponso"irrg road racing d""h;;"". that
-- they
The o'H.c. Norton motor has featured the racing for over
twenty years. A vertical shaft, with bevei gears at tie moders top and bottom
is used for the camshaft drive. The 500 c.c. motor has been
extensively, but the 850 c.c. has also featured in many successes. raced most
_ The present o.H..c. Norton racing single motor

have about reached tn1 qea-t or oever?pme-nt for thisis now considered to
stirl considered unexcelldd for high typ"; o,igi, it i.
a "rit of murti-
number
cylinder engines of the same piston "pJ"a-"Lri"uility,
aGpirc"ment now produce higher
power output.
.
A. recent. developmeht in the Norton racing model has been the
replacing of the
_
conventional single down tube f*rame ,rA-pL"S"" t,p"
rear_ s_prirging previously used wiih a new type
of auprex t,i["- t1L*. ot
welded construction, featuring the_ swinging- arm ty-pe rear-
sfring,ing
l3rste1 wjth telescoping spring loaded ani hydraulie rear fork legs. An
appreciable weight saving and improve*"rt in road holding is- aiirftuteo
to this new frame design.
The standard Norton.range presently included a 800 c.c. O.H.V.
single;
iro c.c. and 800 c.c. o.H.v. .r"gr".,
500 c'c' and 600 c.c. S.v. singres;
"Dominator" 500 c.c. q.H.v. twin model, the latest addition arso the
to the
Norton range. This is basically of eonventional vertical i*1, a""igo,
featuring a built up type crankshaft using a central fl5zr,rzheel, forged
aluminum alroy connecting rods with repia&able big-enJ-l"u.l"i
a roller type drive side crankshaft_bearing is emplo.-yed arro a-t'au"rr"rr.;
on
-the timing side. The cylinder block fe-atures cast in tunnels fortype the
push rods and the rocker boxes- form part of
Initially produced with th_e-standard loop framethe eyrinder heal casting.
and plunger tSpe spring-
ing, the Norton twin moder has just .rd* b*"o produced *iil."tiru
duplex
fype welded frame with pivoted iear springing system, introduced on
racing'moder. The Norton tw'in, has not-as y"et, teen produced the
a standard road machine. as-oiier tnan
Panther-This range includes 2b0 c.c. and 350 c.c. O.H.V.
conventional frame designr &nd & 600 c.c, o.H.v. sinEles of
the cylinder forms the front down tube of fram-e. "i"sr"-*;d"r"ii"wnicrr
been a feature of this make, this-belng attributeO rargJfyloa"""titity rru"
nrr?*.-
sump iiru-.u_i_O"y
system emproyed, wh"ich provid"" *J.f"u*""ri"it"irt"i"._
-lubrication
tion. oil supply is carried in i forward c'rankcase
pump is outstanding for simplicity, being of ; -ilq;;1ffi;;;
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BRITISH MODELS 69
accommodated in a timing gear hub with reciprocating action imparted

Py.."*- eccentrically mounted stud, registering with a siot in plunger. No
ball check valves being required are .a feat-ure of this prr_i,--*t i"f, i*
probably the most completely trouble free type made.
Oii return to the
wheel throw. Although-_crankcase oil compartment is effected by the fly_
srighry heavier oil consumption is eiperienced
under some conditions than with the fulr dry sump type, for
this average use,
system provides numerous adva.:ntages such as better lubrication
from cold, and a minimum of oil dilution frim condensation.
Not designed for maximum output, somewhat better than average
gas mileage performance is a charaiteristic of, this make. oowiy or"o-
matic telescopic forks
,using air compression in prace of trre conventional
coil spring.s are featured,
- R'udge-This we, known rang'e of o.H.v. singres, mosry of four varve

design is no longer produced. Trr-e tast models w-ere-made in 1gs9. Rudge
machines experienced many racing successes, and
a feature of, this make
was the high efficiency four vahie o.H.v. type motor,
standard and racing machines. usua lr--roth the
Royal-Enfierd-The Enfield moders now in production are

two stroke, Bb' c.c. and the 7zs c.c.
500_c.c. O_.H.V. .i"gf"*, and a 500 c.c. O.H.V.
A wide range of machines tras geneiatty been produced vertical
lrvil.
Past productions have incruded ,.v" Iwins iri i006-;;.;;iilo'".I. by this make.
also three and four valve models .,ru",
. The Royal-Enfierd 125 c.c. model features a somewhat righter con-

:!".y"ti91-F"n emptoyed on.the u."u"*8""-;i"hine
unit of this type has the ctutch on tfr" u"gi"" of this size. The tatest
ventional counter-shaft,.typ9 ctutct previoirsty "i,uft,-rupf""irriii" "orr_
used.' tfri aO.iarri"g" or
this new arrangement. lies in tfr" g.ru'"1l" ioad. capacity
higher clutch speed. Sligh,y achieved I:y the
"oisi"ig;ar "hanging, however, results.
The standard 850 c.c. O.H.V. model G and
machines are of generalry conventional-ou.ig.- 500 c.c. O.H.V. model J
They feature a plain type
con-rod and big-end bearing, using a fl0atini.bushjm
bearing more commoi tvi" frr"u ot-trr"u
petition model features 11 !4i. The 350 c.c.
""ia O.H.V. "o,u"
"t-l"ej"e.
.an arumiirir* u[oyiyri"a", tio"t i"uq
com_
pivoted type rear springrng.
"ru "
The 500 c.c. twin. modgt
.epn]oys a
c'c' "Bullet." A number of detaik";f frame design simitar to the BbO
-ttie*moto,
differ frorn the conventionat verticar tr"i" i*ts". .""".iro"iJorr,-ho*".,"",
in the crankcase, isnition. is by coii 6;i;;;;; i", #l.urrr"u
being driven from -generator t6catla *itr, l-u,o-utic advance, distributor
;;-;";;.of cvrinder block. separate
cast iron cylinder broclrs are used and
""p"."t"
ffi "Iili";;;ildJ"=h"ad".
Sff,_ffiT."";;"#:i,:rlr*crres aireciry t" rear of crankcise, providing
sunbeam-pre-1g40,-the sunbeam featured-a
high quaritv s'v' and o.H.v. .r"si"1yir"dlr*aoaerc range of exceptionally
jstic feature for manv years of which
was trre Lomptetely enclosed rear a clia"acter-
1946' onry the new s"""rr"u* t*i;;h"#"il;e chain. since
This' unquestionabry, repre'sents one of moder has been produced.
the most outstanding and advanced
motorcycre designs in pioduction. rrre'*otor'is
shaft desigrr' cyrinder b-h"-t of 500 c.c. overhead cam-
with cylinder riners' cyrinder"lo "*""r."L""J'rr" :f o.-g aluminum casting
rr"ua i"--oi"irlrrrr* alloy with varve seat
?O MODERN MOTORCYCLEI DE}SIGN
inserts. The overhead camshaft drive is by reduction 8:ears and final chain
drive. A one piece crankshaft is used, and con-rods are light alloy forgings
with split type big-ends of unusually large diameter, using removable shells.
cylinder layout is of the vertical twin twe, but with cylinders in line
with ihe frame instead of the usual transverse mounting of this type.
The sunbeam layout is of course, most favorable to shaft drive application.
Oil supply is contained in the bottom of the crankcase, and a gear type
pump proviaes pressure feed lubrication. Automatic ignition advance and
rubber engine mountings are featured.
A Iarge diameter single plate flyuvheet clutch is housed at the rear
of engine behind which ls ftre four speed foot change gearbox' The
final drive is by shaft, with worm and wormwheel. A flexible coupling
is used at the gearbox end of drive shaft, and a universal joint at the
rear wheel end. This allows adequate flexibility for the rear wheel
springing.
The duplex cradle type frame incorporates plunger type rear
springing and tfre front forks are of plunger design. Initially, a single
centrat ipring connected to each fork leg by means of link_age was
employedf buisubsequently, this was modified to the conventional pattern
incorporating a spring in each leg, with hydraulic control'
Two models are produced. The model s7 first introduced, features
16" wheet rims, using 4.50" front and' 4.75" rear tires; exceptionally i!'ide
mudg:uards are fitted to this machine. The sports version, th-e model S8,
featrJres conventional tlpe wheels with somewhat lighter front forks,
smaller mudguards, and-[ire sizes of 3.25" or 3.50"x19 front and 4'00"x18
rear.
With a power output of.26 B.H.P. at 5800 r.p.m' on approximately 7:1
compressioni a maxiri.um speed of 80 m,p.h. is obtainable on the model
s7 and 85 m.p.h. on the model s8. More outstanding than the maximum
performance capabilities of this machine, however, are the ability to
iorr"" .,r"ry large mileages with the minimum of attention, cleanliness
ot .rrgirr" heslgi, and exceptional quietness of operation at all speeds. The
SunbJam unquestionably, is a forerunner of further new motorcycle
designs of similar Pattern.
Trirumph-Although one of the pioneer motorcycle manufacturers,
the ,greatest poputarity of this make has been achieved since the inlro-
ductiln of the-"Speed Twin" model late in 193? follor,ued a year later by the
"Tiger 100," a tuned edition of the "Speed Twin." These Triumph twins
achieved world wide popularity. The design and performance of
-models
"api-dty
these were largely responsible for the developing of interest in
Bri+-ish motorcycles on this continent.
Introduced ten years in advance of the majority of other vertical
twin designs, the design features and characteristics of the Triumph
twin engine are now well known. Of most compact and clean design,
exceptionally smooth running:, quiet in operation, and with high perform-
ance and r.p.m. capabilities, the Triumph twin has set the pattern for the
existing trend towards vertieal twin motors.
X'ew, if any, new motorcycle designs have ever proved so "right"
from ihe start as the Triurnph "Speed Twin." Except for minor detail
developments, the original design remains basically the same today;
featuring central flywheel, forged aluminum alloy connecting rods with
lined steel end eaps, the rod metal forming the upper bearing half; a high
BRITISH MODELS 71
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camshaft design with all gear drive to both magneto and generator;
magneto ignition with automatic advance, and high pressure lubrication.
The crankcase, crankshaft and cylinder block construction provide for
excepr-ional rigidity and combined with the efficient inlet manifold design,
permit operation in the vicinity of 7000 r.p.m. 'with a minimum danger of
stress failure.
Following the suspension of motorcycle production during 1g4O-45,
Triumph twin models in 1946 again led in design featuring automatic
ignition advance and telescopic forks with hydraulic control. A 350 c.c.
twin model was at the time, added to the range, being the only twin
mod,e1 of this size being produced in England or America. Unusually
smooth running chan:acterized this model.
1948 developments were the introduction of a racing model known
as the "Grand Prix." Although basically of the same design as the 500 c.c.
twin motor, this machine featured heavier forged aluminum connecting
rods, now, incidentally, used throughout the range of standard machines,
and an aluminum block with iron sleeves and aluminum head. Although
produced only in limited quantities, and ridden by private entrants, this
model achieved notable successes in international road racing events,
maximum speed being in the vicinity of 120 m.p.h.
Of somewhat similar general engine design, the Trophy model,
introduced in the same year featured a lower compression motor, special,
lighi-, high grouncl clearance frame, and was designed especially for cross
country type trials riding. The Trophy ranks as one of the most successful
machines of this type ever produced.
The ingenious Triumph spring rear hub was also produced ln 1948.
On this design, the springing is entirely enclosed in the large diameter
rear hub. This is still produced with only detaiied modifications having
been made to the original design.
1949 models featured the well known instrument "Nacelle" fitting
on top of the telescopic forks; this streamlined enclosure enhancing the
appearance of the machine, incorporates headlight, ammeter, light srvitch,
speedometer, and ignition cutout button.
The outstanding 1950 development was the introduction of the 650 c.c.
"Thunderbird" twin model. Of the same basic design as the 500 c.c. mctor,
the bore and stroke dimensions were increased from 63x80 mm. to
71x82 mm. This filled a long felt need for a machine of the Trlumph
twin type in somewhat larger capacity than 500 c.c., particularly in
North Ameriea,
The 1951 range provided a new power unit for the Tiger 100 model,
featuring a "die-cast" type aluminum alloy cylinder block and cylinder
head of similar construclion, featuring pressed in valve seat inserts, and
cylinder liners; a further unique feature of this model being the availabity
of the "racing kit," comprising such items as racing camshafts, valve
springs, special pistons, racing exhaust system, dual carburetor
arrangement, tachometer, and other racing accessories. The objective of
this racing kit being to enable the private owner to convert the standard
Tiger 100 into a racing machine and raising the maximum power output
from a standard figure of 32 B.H.P. at 6500 r.p.m., to 43 B.I{.P. at
7000 r.p.m.
A Triumph development for 1952 is the use of a car type S.U.
carburetor on the 650 c.c. model. A carburation change applying to the
other models also is an air cleaner of larger capacity. The type previously
used, introduced in 1949, providing some restriction in maximum
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performance. To eliminate the elbowat the entrance to the carburetor,

air is now centrally located behind the frame seat post tube,
cleaner
which has been designed with an "eye" at the top end to enable a
straight conneetion from carburetor intake to air cleaner.
One of the few shortcomings of the Triumph twin models has been
the rapid wear experienced on the tappets (cam followers)' This has
been attributed to material irregularities and a special "tipped" tappet is
now in use. This may completely overcome the trouble, but it is felt
that provision for greater oil supply to the cams would contribute
materially to improved cam and tappet life. There have been some
failures with the aluminum spring box casLings used in the spring
rear hubs; also attributed to ma+"erial defects. An increase in the
thickness of this presently rather light metal section would appear to be
desirable to provide this rather high stressed part with a greater margin
of strength, to better withstand the most severe conditions of use, and
minor material irregularities.
A 500 c.c. side valve Triumph twin model is being produced but is
being supplied exclusiveiy to the military services. This model motor is
based on ttre standard design crankcase, except that an A.C' type generator
driven directly off crankshaft drive end is used. Moderate weight and
exceptional cross country performance capabilities are characteristic of
this model.
The general performance characteristics of the Triumph trvin models,
which feature easy starting, quiet running, as well as outstanding accelera-
tion 'and maximum speed capabilities, make them appeal to all tlpes of
motorcyclists.
Velocetto-In the past, the racing successes of this make and the
general charactefistics ran a close parallel to the Norton, except that their
efforts and successes have been concentrated mainly on the 350 e.c. size.
The single cylinder O.H.C. design, with vertical shaft and bevelied gear
camshaft drive, have featured these models for many years. Recently,
production of the overhead camshaft motors has been suspended, and the
production concentrated on two standard models. The 350 c.c. O.H.V. model
MAC of which the oriS'inal design, using a high camshaft and short push
rod layout, was introduced some twenty years ago, has recently been
re-designed, and now features an aklminum cylinder block and cylinder
head with cylinder liner and valve seat inserts. The rearrn'ard mounted
magneto is gear driven, and the forward mounted generator is bell driven,
which althoug'h unusual on English motorcycles, has proved highly
satisfactory.
Introduced in 1948 in 150 c.c. size and for 1950, enlarged to 200 c.c.
size, the Velocette model LE is one of the most modern motorcycles pro-
duced today. It features a water cooied side valve opposed twin engine
transversely mounted. Starting is by hand lever. Flylvheel tlpe clutch,
three speed g'earbox and shaft drive are used. Plunger type telescopic front
forks and pivoted type rear wheel springing are provided. T'he main frame
construction is of pressed steel. Exceptionally wide and effective mud-
guards, of streamlined shape, provide excellent weather protection. Leg
shields are also provided. Somewhat unusual today is the hand gear shift'
Standard equipment features footboards, rear seat, and luggage pannier
bags.
This machine probably represents one of the most complete departures
from conventional motorcycle design that has been produced for many
years. The objective was to produce a machine that would appeal to a
large section of the public requiring utility transportation, that existing
BRITISH MODELS 75
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motorcycle designs were not adequately providing for. The most outstanding
characteristics of this machine are its extreme silence of operation, smooth-
ness, ease of startir\g, reliability, and ability to cover considerable mileage
with a very minimum of attention.
Vincent-Originaliy the Vincent H.R.D., trut now known as the
"Vincent," the 1000 c.c. "V" twin of this make is generally recognized
as the fastest standard motoreycle produced. A feature of this make has
been the exclusive use of rear frame springing since first produced over
twenty years ago. This is of the pivoted rear fork type, and is notable
for the long range of rear wheel movement provided. The normal type
front frame construc+-ion has been dispensed with, and now consists of a
steering head tug bolted to a forged steei bracket on the front cylinder
head. A strong triaqgulated oil tank braces it against a similar lug on
the rear cylinder head. The rear frame plunger spring member is
attached to a rearward extension of this bracke+-, and the rear fork
pivots on a bracket attached to the rear of the gearbox.
The twin models feature a unit construction design, gearbox being
within a compartment of the crankcase casting. In the twin range, three
models are produced, the "Rapide" with a maximum speed of 110 m.p.h., the
"Black Shadow" 'with a maximum of 720 m.p.h., and a racing model,
the "Black Lightning," capable of 150 on alcohol fuel.
Various novel and original features are found in the Vincent design.
Notable amongst these are the twin brake drums, one on each side of
each hub. These provide exceptional braking power. Rear s'hee1 is
provided with two sprockets, so that gear ratio can be quickly changed
by moving the rear wheel and replacing the other way around. The
clutch is of an expanding shoe type, providing exceplional load capacity.
The "Girdraulic" front forks, fitted to the "C" range models,
represents manufacturers' alternative to plunger fork design. These
feature a top and bo+-tom linkage arrangement of particularly rigid
construction. The main fork members are light alloy forgings of tapered
oval section, and a hydrauiic damper is centrally located. The telescoping
pivoted spring loaded Iegs are fitted at the rear of the main fork
members, attaching from lower end of leg to bottom fork spindle belorv
sr,eering head. A novel eccentric device enables a variation of spring
ioading and fork trail to suit soio or sidecar use. Although not of as neat
an appearance as the conventional type plunger forks, this design
features maximum rigidity, and is considered to have particular merit
where machine may be used with sideear.
Vincent motors feature aluminum cylinder block and cylinder head
construction, and special alloys figure extensively in the general
specifications.
The Vincent twin modeis have a strong appeal to those interested
in a high maximum speed, and extremely high cruising speed capabilities
for long distance highway travel.
500 c.c. O.H.V. single models are also produced, basically resembling
the twin motor layout and general frame design, except using a separate
unit conventional type gearbox.
Space does not p,ermit dealing with makes produced in past years
that are not now in current production. Amongst these, however, there
are many worthy of note as having contributed considerably to motorcycle
development, such as the Brough-Superior, Calthorpe, Cotton, New Hudson,
New Imperial, Raleigh, and others.
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?8 MODERN MOTORCYCLE! DESIGN
Section 4
AMEB,ICAN MODET.S
Theverywellknownmakes,Harley-DavidsonaJIdlndian,havecorn.
prised practically the entire American motorcycle p:oduction in America
i;;;;, years: As is generally well known, both these makes were
pioneers-iri the motorcycie inOustry on this continent' and' until recent
!"*"", itu,'t u concentratei almost exciusively on the production of compara-
tively heavy weight machines.
During recent years, some motor scooters and a few lightweight
manufactured
typemotoicycles have lone into production on this continent' newcomer in
ii-""rrii""ry sma^ll vol-ume. Proiably the most outstanding
-figfrt*6ight
iir" motorcy.t" tiuta in America is the "Mustang'" This
features a 19 cubic inctr side valve motor, a duplex tube frame with welded
-"*"-ri
Joi.ri",- ""a unusually *rr""is, the 12" diameter rims being fitted
with 4.00" tires. specificatlo,,s i'ciuae an English Burman three modelspeed
gearbox, and Amal ca"bureto". With a weight of 275 pounds' this
good aff-rou"O performance' tn. tne price class of lightweight
iro"iA.J a *motorcyctes,
i.wo stroke ttris tlae of machine may devetop " -*'d9. appeal
amongstthosewhorequiretowcosttransportation'butpreferthefour
stroke cycle motor.
During the early days of the American motorcycle will industry' there
were quite a number oi ilaxes in production. old timers reeall sueh
il;;" as the "!'lying Merkel," wiich featured a very ciever-.front and
thirty years ago' Yale' Pierce' Reading' Cleve-
,"a, systLmi about
"pri"gl"g
i""4,--""A"oti'"ri. Ot more rec"r,f froduction, the Super X Excelsior "V"
ffii;, ;"a the Henderson straight four, enjoyed considerable popularity
untii their production was discontinued about 1931'
After some years of exclusive production of, heavy type machines' the
commencement of production of h[hter types of both Indian and
Harley-
Davidson appears to indicate that ihe tutur-e trend. in American motorcycle previously
oroduction mav be towards lighter types -morethan those which have of
6;;;;ffi;;;: mre avalarifty of American made motorcvcles
lighter weight should extend the market for American machines'
Chara.cteristics of American Motorcycle Deslgn-The "V" twin has

been the almost universal motor layout for American motorcycles for
a
ir""t-*""V years. Up until 1948, no-other type had bee:r ex-tensively
ieveloped wiit ttre eiception of Henderson and Indian stra,ight fours.
The Indian 44O c.c. anA 6OO c.c. vertical twins, and the Harley-Davidson
A25 c.c. two stroke models produced since have been a substantial
departure from Previous Praetice,
American motorcycle motors have been predominantly' air- cooled
stroke cycle desilr, and until recent yea'rs, mos,tly of- the sidedesig:n
four -lfu"fu,-bavlOson" valve
i,p". and Indian have developed the side valve
engine to a comparatively high_standard of efficiency. A rather
*output
"l;io""v"r"
t"ti!, po*"" per inch _ot piston displacement has been achieved
than with the average'British side valve unit, which has not been extensively
developed for hi,gh Power output'
Sidevalvemotors,evenofthemostadvanceddesign,however,sufferthe
from more limitations in the achievement of high power output than
o-ELn. type. In recent years, there has_been a notable trend towards o.H.V.
motorcycti motors in the Ameriean industry'
AMERICAN MODELS 79
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A notable characteristic of most of the large displacement American

twins produced has been their ability to cover large mileages with a
minimum of motor attention, a really worthwhile feature for machines
used for a great deal of long distance travel.
Opposed twins were introduced by both Harley and Indian around
1920, but neither of these models were extensively developed and were
only produced for a short period. American makes were among the first
to iit etectric lighting, twist grip spark and throttie control, three speed
gearboxes, and all chain drive, which were generally adopted some years
later in other countries. A reversal of this process of the spread of design
features has been witnessed in recent years, when such features as dry
sump lubrication, automatic ignition advance, footchange gearboxes, hand
clutch, spring frames, and telescopic forks, Iong used on British machines,
have subsequently been adopted in American production.
In past years, heavy construction has been one of the main American
motorcycle characteristics. Weights gradually increased over a period of
years, and at present, the 61", 74", and 80" twin models, with standard
equipment, weigh over 550 pounds. In comparison to current British models
of similar output, American models average 100 pounds heavier. There
has been no evidence of effort to reduce weight yet on American motor-
cycles in the 6L"- 80" range. To do this effectively may involve extensive
re-designing'. It is notable, however, that in the new Indian O.H.V' twin
models, and the latest Harley-Davidson 45" model, weight saving has
featured extensively throughoul the design, and the poundage of these
machines compare quite closely to British models of similar displacement.
American models, particularly the Harley-Davidson, have been used
extensively for long distance highway patrol work and commerciai sidecar
service, and the general design reflects this type of service in which they
have proved very satisfactory. A worthy feature of the heavier American
models has always been the substantial mutti-plate clutches with fibre
plates, being capable of standing a considerable amount of slipping and
abuse without bad effects.
There appears little doubt that future American motorcycle design
developments will follow a trend towards British and European designs'
providing lighter weight, and universal adoption of handlebar clutch
iontrol and foot gear shift. Plunger forks have already been generally
adopted, and the number of models available with rear spring frames has
been increasing:.
Harley-Davidson-45 degree "V" type twin motors have been used on
I{arley-Davidson machines almost exclusively for the past 35 yeal's. During
the period 7926-7934, side valve and O.H.V. 21" and 30" singles were pro-
duced, but the popular 45" twin model replaced these machines. !'rom
about 1912-1929,the 61" and 74" twin modeis remained basically unchanged
in design using overhead inlet and side exhaust valves. One of the most
powerful and reliable motors produced during that period, these models
were manufactured in cornparatively large numbers and a great many are
scill in regular service, a tribute to the quality of these machines.
fn 1929, ttle 45" side valve twin was introduced and in 1930, the 74"
twin was redesigned using this type of power unit. An 80" (1300 c.c.)
twin was added to the range in 1936.
In 1936, a 61" O.H.V. (1000 c.c.) "V" twin was produced, featuring
the English type hemispherical cylinder head design and dry sump lubri-
cation. The improved performance of this type resulted in great popularity
and a 74" O.H.V. model of similar design, was produced in 1940.
AMERICAN MODELS 81
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AMERICAN MODEILS 83
In 1937, the side valve range was re-designed to incorporate dry sump
lubrication. In 1949, the 61" and 74" O.H.V. moLors were fitted with
aluminum cylinder heads, and valve seat inserts. These new cylinder
heads provided cooler rurming, and enabled higher compression ratios to
be more satisfactorily used. Introduced on these models for the first
time on any motorcycle, were hydraulic push rods, providing for automatic
tappet clearance adjustment, This feature is retained, and has proved
highly satisfactory,
In 1948, the first two stroke model to be marketed by the Harley-
Davidson company was added to their range. A 125 c.c, model of
conventional European type design, it features hand clutch, foot gear-
shift, coil ignition, and telescopic forks.
For 1952, tl,e 45" model has been completely re-designed; the new
machine is known as the Model K. Although the well proved 45" side
valve motor forms the basis of, this new design, it is an entirely new
machine.
' Motor layout features unit construction with four speed gearbox, foot-
change, and hand ctutch; telescopie piunger type front forks are used,
also a pivoted type rear spring frame, with two plunger spring units
incorporating hydraulic damping; in appearance similar to automotive
type shock absorbers. !'ootrests replace the footboards. Mud,guards of
much smaller proportions than those previously fitted, are employed. Tire
sizes have been reduced to 3.25x19. Cylinder block and head castings
have a new finning pattern, giving most attractive appearance, with
improved cooling'. A much neater exhaust system is also a part of the
new design.
Weight of this new model is listed, at 446 pounds, representing a
reduction of approximately 80 pounds from the previous model "WL."
Power output is listed at 30 B.H.P. at 5200 r.p.m. As well as the improved
performance capabilities provided by the higher output and reduced weight,
greatly improved handling, cornfort and safety on all road conditions have
been derived from the new fork and rear spring frame design.
In 7942, an interesting experimental model was produced for the U.S.
Army. This was a 45" opposed twin model with a transverse motor
mounting, four speed footchange gearbox, hand cluteh, shaft drive, and
rear spring'frame. This particular model was patterned somewhat on the
lines of the German B.M.W.
Consistency in general design and hlgh standa.rds of workmanship
and reliability have characterized Har1ey-Davidson machines for many
5rears. !'riw motorcycle manufacturers in the world have the record of
producing a consistently large volume of outstanding reliable motoreycles
for such a long period of years as the Harley-Davidson. Many features
have been originated by this famous American faetory, notably the double
high tensioh coil eliminating need for ignition distributor, the spring seat
post, providing exceptionally smooth progtessive saddle aeton, the "Buddy"
seat, safety guards, and other itenx.
Indian-The Indian was one of the earliest motorcycle manufaeturers
in this country, starting production in 1901. 42 degree "V''' twin models,
featured the Indian production for many years. Indian introduced many
modern features in the early days of the motoreycle industry. The most
notable advance was made about 1920, when the first of the famous
"Scout" models was introduced. Advaneed features of this design included
a semi-unit construction of engine and gearbox, a helical gear primary
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drive and a multi-plate clutch running in oil. This design, although

improved in minor details, remained baslcally unchanged until 1934, when
the Sport Scout was introduced.
It is of interest to note that a Ieaf type rear springing system was in
production around 1917-18. Prior to this, an electric starter had been k
produced. 1928 saw the introduction of the Indian 4, an in line motor 6
produced with some modifications through to 1940. In this year, other
models produced included the 30", 45", arld 74" side valve twins.
Generally considered the best fndian machines ever produced were
t}:e 37" ar:d 45" Scout models produced during the period of 1929-31. On
the 1940 Chief and X'our models, a plunger tJ,?e rear spring frame was
introduced. This provided a notable improvement in road holding and
rear wheel braking, as well as increased riding comfort. Range o.f wheel
movement on this type was rather limited, however, and the springing
comparatively stiff.
In 1942, a transverse twin model, using a 90 degree angle, 45,, t\Min
motor, featurlng shaft drive, four speed footchange gearbox, spring frame,
and link type forks with hydraulic shock absorber, was producefl for
the U.S. Army.
In 1948, the fndian manufacturers introduced two entirely new
models; the 220 c.c. O.H.V. si4gle with four speed gearbox, footchange
plunger forks and plunger type rear springing; also a 440 c.c, vertical
twin of similar design. Exceedingly light weight was a notable feature,
these machines scaling 250 and 280 lbs. respectively.
Subsequently, the twin model was enlarged to b00 c.e. size. These
models did not achieve wide popularity due probabty to the odd initial
piston displacement sizes, which did not fit into any of the standard
categories, comparatively high cost, and also avaiiabiity of more fully
developed British models, the lines of which these machines generally
followed.
The present fndian models comprise a 250 c.e. side valve, known as
the "Brave," which is manufactured in England and marketed in the
U,S.A. under the Indian name, and of American manufacture, a b00 c.c.
..V,,
O.H.V. vertical twin, and an 80,, side valve twin, based on the old
74" side valve design, with some modern improvements, notabiy plunger
front forks.
., rndian
that
motorcycles have not achieved the prominence in recent years
they enjoyed in past years. Some of the 1oss in popularity appears
to have been due to frequent changes in ownership and contiol tt tne
factory. Although various designs have been developed, there has been
some lack of continuity and consistency, which have not enhanced the
reputation of this make.
Section 5
SNT,ECTING A SUITABT,IIr MODEL

Those who have not previously owned a motorcycle, who are con-
templating purchasing one, or those considering another machine, and
uncertain as to the type of machine to seleit, are well advised to
carefully survey the models available of the general type desired, in
relation to personal preferences and requirements. First of a1l, con-
sideration should be given as to what is required in the way of per_
formance, the type of use the machine is chiefly required for, and the
features of design that are of the greatest appeal,
SET E1CTING A SUITABLE MODEI. 87
With the rang'e of machines now available, it is not difficult to

select a model that will suit the most individual requirements. It is well
to select a model that o,ffers a, good reserve in the way of performance,
maximum and sustained speed capabilities, over wha,t it is anticipated
wiil be required. Generally to ensure a satisfactory standard of performance,
and provide a desirable "reserve," it is advisable to select a model with
a maximum speed of about 20 m.p.h. greater than the fastest average
cruising speed that it is planned to maintain.
Although some models, in perfect tune, are capable of maintaining'
to their maximum for considerable distances, generally much
speeds close
better results will be obtained where it is not necessary to operate a motor
at peak performance for prolonged periods. A fair reserve in the way of
performance is a source of considerable riding pleasure and increased
motor reliability.
The lightweight 125 c.c. motorcycles are particularly suitable for
short distance travel under comparatively light load eonditions. Simplicity
and relatively tow first cost are the attractions of this tlpe. If con-
siderable mileages are to be covered, however, fairly heavily loaded, a
laqger type machine will, in the long run, prove more economical. Although
some 125 c.c. models are capable of 50 m.p.h. under favorable conditions,
the average maximum speed is usually closer to 45 m.p.h., and under
slightly unfavorable operating conditions, such as facing a head wind,
maximum can be reduced to 35-40 m.p.h.
The most suitable cruising speeds on this type of machine are 30-35
m.p.h. Gas mileage varies a great deal, according to speed, particularly
on the small types. Mileages of upwards of 150 m.p.g. are obtainable at
speeds under 30 m.p.h., approximately 725 at 40 m.p.h., dropping to
100-110 m.p.g. at sustained maximum speed. Although capable of carrying
an extra passeng'er, for more than occasional passenger service, a size
larger is strongly recommended.
The 200 c.c. models provide a maximum of 55 m.p.h., and enable
cruising speeds of 40-45 m.p.h. to be maintained. Headwilds have much
less effect on performance than is the case with the 125 c.c. tlpe, and
likewise there is much less noticeable loss in performance when carrying
a passeng'er. Operati4g econorny and durability, however, are not as good
as that obtained with the 250 c.c. four stroke models.
In the 250 c,c. class, the side valve motors have a maximunr. speed
of 55 m.p.h., and a comfortable cruising speed of 45 m.p.h. The O.H.V.
motors have a maximum speed of 60-65 m.p.h., and are very satisfactory
for sustained cruising speeds of, 50 m.p.h. Gas mileages on the side valve
type average about 100 m.p.B., and the O.H.V. type 110-120 m.p.g.
Standard 350 c.c. O.H.V. models generally provide a maximum speed
of 70-75 m.p.h., and are capable of maintaining cruising speeds in the
vicinity of 55 m.p.h. without stress. Gas mileages usually run about 80-90
m.p'9.
In the 500 c.c. O.H.V. class, most standard models are capable of 85
m.p.h., while a number of the vertical twin models can achieve 95 m.p.h.
in standard form. These motors are generally adequate for the most severe
service conditions, and are well suited to sustain cruising speeds in the
range of 70-75 m.p.h.
In the 650 c.c. O.H,V. vertical twin class, ma:(imum speed capabilities
are in the vicinity of 100 m.p.h., and speeds in the range of 80-90 m.p.h.
can be sustained, Gas mileages on the 500c.c.-650 c.c. types average betw'een
70 and 80 m.p.g. at the lower speeds, and a.pproximately 60 m.p.g. at
sustained high speed.
In the American type motors, t}:e 45" twins provide a maximum
speed in standard form of approximately 85 m.p.h. with gas mileage of
approximately 60 m.p.g. at low cruising speeds and 45-50 m.p.g. at sus-
tained high speeds. The 61" and 74" O.H.V. twin modeis provide maximum
speeds of somewhat over 100 m.p.h. and are capable of maintained cruising
speeds in the range of 80-90 m.p.h. Gas mileag:e on these models generally
averag:es 50 m.p.g. at moderate speeds, and 40 m.p.g. at maintained high
speeds.
A motorcycle of moderate weight is generally much more preferable
where most riding is done within cities, where numerous stops and starts,
and considerable traffic is encountered. Moderate weight is also a distinct
advantage under extremely severe service conditions, where roads are
unfavorable and especially on soft surfaces.
Military tests and cross country competitions have proved conclusively
that light weight is an enormous advantage under severe service conditions.
Lighter type machines, with adequate ,ground clearance, are serviceable
where heavier models are completely useless. Although easy to control
on the move, machines much in excess of 400 pounds are awkward to
handle in confined space.
It is considered that the future trend in design will be towards a
maximum weight of about 400 pounds, even for the most powerful models.
Weight does not ensure road holding or riding comfort alone. These qualities
are more dependent on various factors of design, noticeably the front fork
and rear frame springing and shock absorbing eharacteristics, and saddle
suspension.
Summarizing, the motorcyclist about to select a machine will be well
advised to obtain a model that appears best suited for the type of service
for which it is required most, and possessing a fair amount of reserve in
the way of performance.
If ability to cover long mileages with a minimum of attention is
desired, selection of a motor of an appreciably greater size than is neces-
sary to g'ive required performance is recommended.
Solo or Sidec.ar Outfit-The motorcyeie is essentially a solo maehine.
IInder average conditions, the full degree of riding pleasure performance
and operating: economy are only realized in soio use. Double riding'on a
solo machine is in every way preferable to sidecar operation. Attachment
of a sidecar increases initial cost abottt 307c, operating. expenses 50/o
and reduces performance 30/c.
' F or American machines, the well known Buddy seat is without equal
for carrying an extra passeng:er and providing adequate riding comfort
for the passeng'er with a minimum affect on the stability of the machine.
Dual seats are now becoming available for English machines and a rang:e
of Pillion seats of various type are in production.
Sidecar use is practical under certain conditions where it is required
to carry two passengers addition to rider or commercial loads up to b00
pounds on moderately good roads. A sideear is very useful for operation
on icy road conditions; the "combination" being one of the safest vehicles
from the point of view of anti-skid qualities.
SELECTING A SUITABLE MODEL 89
Attachment of sidecars to machines of less than 500 c.c. capacity is

not generally recommended. Reduction in gearing ot 20Ya is normally
required.
Sidecar driving involves a completely different technique than solo
riding and those without sidecar driving experience are well advised to
review the notes on sidecar driving in Chapter Three before commencing
operation with a sidecar machine.
Performa,nce Figures-The maximum speed performance figures
quoted in this chapter represent the average obtainable with a "crouched,,
riding position. The unfavorable aero-dynamic shape of the motorcyele,
particularly with the rider seated in an upright position, and: consequent
wind resistance, is the chief limiting factor in the attainment of high speeds.
Gas Mileage-Gas mileage figures quoted are average obtainable at
moderate cruisrng speeds on an imperial gal]on (approx. 2A/s bss on IJ.S.
gallon).
CHAPTER THREE
MOTORCYCLE OPERATIOT!
The importance of acquiring a thorough understanding of the best
motorcycle operating technique cannot be over-emphasized. Motorcycles
are easy to ride and it is not difficult to achieve a good measure of
riding skill in a very brief time providing the correct operating procedures
are carefully studied and followed, and common bad practices avoided.
Most motorcycle accidents are due to carelessness and improper handling.
Application of the best riding methods; alertness and riding in a considerate
manner, will contribute substantially to a high standard of riding safety.
An added benefit derived from intelligent motorcyele handling is that
operating costs will be reduced and the utmost in riding pleasure, all
around service and satisfaction from your machine, will be realized.
Adequate maintenance is essential to assure mechanical reliability
to provide for safe operation. New motorcyclists and those without a
knowledge of motorcycle maintenance requirements are well advised to
first review Chapter tr'our "Motorcycle Maintenance.,,
Section I
Preliminary Operatinrg Instr"uctions
The great majority of those about to ride a motorcycle for the first
time 'w,ill previously have ridden a pedal bicycle and no difficulty in
balancing the motorcycle will be experienced. Those who should not
have previously ridden a pedal bicycle are well advised to first learn to
ride a bicycle after which, gaining mastery over the motorcycle will be
found comparaf-ively easy.
Before attempting to start or ride a motorcycle, it is most advisable
to first study the control iayout, and review the operating procedure. The
next section in this chapter details operating procedures on a number of
popular and t,'pical machines, as well as illustrating various control
layouts.
To avoid possibility of mishap or accident while familiarity with the
controls is being gained in initial operation, it is most advisable to select
a section of road as free from traffic and intersections as possibte,
for the initial riding attempt. lf such does not exist in your immediate
vicinity, it is good policy to get an experienced motorcyctist to ride the
machine to a suitable location. Starting off to ride a motorcycle for
the first time amongst motor traffic, involves a very definite accident risk,
that can, and should be avoided.
Before Starting Off on a Strango Machine-Always check: Tire
pressures, oil and gas supply, arld especially try out the brakes individually
before negotiating any traffic, so that you can form an idea of how
quickly the machine can be stopped and what pressure is required. If
PRELIMINARY OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS 91
the controls are in any way different from what you have been accustomed
to, it is of extreme importance to really concentrate on the new control
locations, and practlce operating them frequently so that in tire event
of an emergency or "crash stop" you will be able to control the machine
effectively, Where the throttle, clutch, or brake eontrols may be
differently located than on the machine previously ridden, the natural
reflex action in an emergency w{11 be to involuntarily act as accustomed
to doing; the resulting second or two Iost in realizing the different
controls might be sufficient to cause an aceident. Keen concentration is
absolutely essential when riding a machine with a strange control layout'
until complete familiarity with it is achieved.
Starting the Motor-Many experieneed motorcycle riders struggle
with starting their machines, expending far more effort than is necessary
just because of not using the right procedure, and consequently, needlessly
wasting a lot of time and effort. A properly adjusted machine, in sound
condition, should start every time on the first or second kick when warm,
and not more than three kicks should be necessary when cold. It will pay
the novice as well as the experienced rider, who sometimes experiences
starting difficulties, to acquire and apply the best method for their
particular machine. The best starting method varies considerably on
different types of motors, and to a certain extent, on climatic conditions.
A combination of good mechanical "tune" and starting "technique" will
give comparatively effortless starting on any type of motor. The recom-
mended starting procedures for the various types of machines dealt with
in this chapter are detailed under the respeclive heading's in the next section.
Kickstarter "Jamuting'r-On some British models in partieular, with
the sector-type kickstarter g:ear, "jamming" occurs when sector engag:es
with the pinion gear. This is best overcome by pulling in the clutch pedal,
and pressing down starter until gears are felt to engage before throwing
weight on the starter. If gears "jam" and easy engagement is not
obtained by pulling in the clutch, engage a gear and roek machine
stightly to move posit-ion of the starter pinion, and then make another
attempt. Do not force starter when gears jam, otherwise damage may
result.
Starter Kick-starting effort is greatly reduced and easier starting
assured by use of body weight instead of just leg muscles rvhen kickstarting.
The best procedure is to press slightly on pedal until starler gear is
engaged, then throw weight on starter and straighten out leg at same time.
This enables weight to be used to maximum effectiveness.
"Freeing" Clutch-On models with clutch running in oil, there is a
tendency for gears to "grind" when low gear is engaged' This is best
relieved by "freeing" clutch before starting motor. Clutch lever should
be pulled in, and kickstarter operated once or twice to "free" the plates
before st-arting motor,
\ilarrning Up-It is generally advisable to avoid hard driving of
engine until motor has reached normal operating temperature, which
takes anything from 5 to 10 minutes. Avoid excessive aceeleration and
hard driving immediately after starting up from cold.
Avoid Overhea,ting Motor-Air eooled motorcycle motors can be
overheated to the extent of causing damage if run too long stationary.
As a general rule, 5 minutes should be considered the time limit for
stationary running. Correct lubrication, carburetion, timing and spark
plugs are mechanical factors that are of outstanding importance in
avoiding excessive engine operating temperatures. Reference should be
92 MOTORCYCLE OPERATION
made to these points covered in the subsequent chapters on "Maintenance"

and "Servicing."
Engaging Lorv Gear-Quite often low gear cannot be readily engaged
when the gear pedal is operated, and this is due to the gear dogs not
"iining up." This is overcome by rolling the machine ahead slightly while
maintaining pressure on the gear pedal.
Royal Enfield Neutral Selector-On Royal Enfield 4 speed gearbox
models a neutral selector is fitted. This is a small lever mounted alongside
the foot change pedal. It enables neutral to be obtained by merely
pressing this lever down. This will automatically obtain neutral whether
in 4th, 3rd or 2r.d. geat. ft will not, however, select neutral from 1ow, and
from iow gear a light press on the main foot change pedal is necessary.
Control Adjustments-Maintenance of controls in a proper state of
adjustment is of great importance to riding safety. Control adjustments
are covered in the next chapter-"lVlotorcycle Maintenance." The checking
and effecting necessary control adjustments is one of the most important
parts of motorcycle maintenance. Quite often slack in the brake controls
will develop gradually unnoticed by the operator, until it is necessary to
make a really sudden stop, when it will be found that adequate braking
pressure to meet the occasion is not available.
Steering Drampers-The majority of 350 c.c. and larger machines are
equipped 'with a steering damper. This is the knob on top of the steering
head. It tightens up friction plates under the steering head; the objective
being to enable a degree of friction on the steering head to be obtained.
Generally, for ]ow and average speed operation, the steering dampei' is
best left completely slacked off or with a very light applical:ion only.
For high speed operation, particularly on rough surface conditions, some
improvement in handling and general control may be obtained by a
moderate application of the steering damper. It is advisable occasionaliy
to check on the steering damper adjustment because occasionallv culious
individuals will alter this, and ii it shouid become tighteied very
considerably, unknown to the operator, control of the machine u-ill be
seriously affected, and it may prove impossibte to follow the exact path
that it is intended to travel, until becoming accustomed to the nerr steering
damper adjustment, or re-adjusting to the original setting.
In sidecar service, the steering damper requires to be tightenecl quite
considerably, and mention of this is made in the next section.
Ill. 3?
This illustration shows the tear-

PUSH shift operation as used on -{ri9l,
,/* UPWARDS
TO ENGAGE
flatchless, B.S.A.. Norron, and all
heavyweighi Burman cearboxes.
A LOWER On Triumph machines the gearshift
GEAR operation is the re\ers9, loN js en-
gaged by pressing dorvn. agq11q1
and higher gears by kicking up.
All foot shifts use a positive
PUSH ratchet mechanism, one push either
DOWNWARDS way selects one gear higher cr
TO ENGAGT A lower. Neutral is obtained by a
I{IGHER GEAR light moYement of pedal from low
or second.
f
OPERATING PROCEDURES 93
Practice Ritling
The best method to obtain a good familiarity 'with operating the
controls is to practice some stationary riding, PulI the machine up on the
back stand, and have the front wheel up against a wall or set a heavy
object in front of it to ensure against machine rolling forward off the
stand. Review the operation of the various controls, seated on the machine,
to gain familiarity with them. Practice starting the motor, gear changing
up and down, making imaginary stops, etc. This form of practice riding
should be continued until you are able to go through all the driving
operations without looking at any of the controls, and 'with your eyes
Iooking ahead as if on the road.
This stationary riding practice will enable you to take to handling
the machine on the road much more quickly and far more safely. Be
sure to allow a cooling interval of five or ten minutes for every three or
four minutes of sueh stationary running. If motor is running when
rolling machine off the stand, make sure the gearshift is in neutral.
Section 2
OPER,ATING PROCEDT]R,NS
Operating procedures on the more popular and typical models are
detailed in this section. Control layouts, illustrating location of controls
are also included. A study of the control layout concerned, and the
operating procedure applying, will be time well spent before commencing
riding practice.
t
(a) Operating the B.S.A. L25 e.c.
Controls:
THROTILE-RighI handlebar twist grip, opening "inwards."
CHOKE-Lever on carburetor air cleaner "up" position, "chokes,"
position "opens." Float "tickler" on carburetor for cold
starting.
CLUTCH-Lef t handlebar lever.
BRAKES-Rear wheel left side foot pedaI, front wheel right handlebar
lever.
GEARSIIIX'T-Foot change, right side foot pedal. Positive ratchet
mechanism, one push either way selects lower or higher gear.
Gear positions: Low, dowa; Neutral, 2nd, and 3rd, up. Neutral
selected by a light push either up from Low, or down from 2nd..
STARTER-Kickstarter right side pedal. Gear position indicator on
left side.
GAS TANKS-Push off and push on type at left side of tank.
LIGHT SWITCH-Left handlebar lever or headlight location.
Motor Sta,rting Procedure (motor colil).-
1. Gas and oil should be mixed in separate container if convenient
before putting into tank; if not, put gas in tank first, shut off
tap and "rock" machine as oil is put in. Once oil is welll mixed
with gas, it wifl not settle for a considerable time- It is a good
prec.aution, however, to shut off the gas tap whenever the machine
is not to be run for a few days.
_l
2. Push gas tap on and depress float ,,tickler,' until gas appears at
carburetor.
3. Close choke (lever up).
4, Open throttie slightly, not more than r/a to Ya of fully open.
5. Press down starter quickly and as soon as motor starts, open choke
about one half 'we,y, and g:radually open fully as motor becomes
warmed up.
When Motor is Hot-Never use the float ,,tickler,, and do not choke
unless necessary, If motor has become "overloaded', by excessive flooding
or choking, shut off gas tap, open throttle wide, and kick over a number
of times. In extreme cases of overflooding, it may be necessary to
remove the erankcase drain plug to drain out the excess gas and the
spark centre electrode insulator may have to be dried off.
Gear shift Position When Starting-On the B.S.A. 12b e.c. unit,
the kickstarter operates the engine regardless of whether the clutch is
engaged or disengaged, therefore, thls motor can be started in neutral
with the clutch engaged as is necessary on other machines, or it can be
started with the clutch disengaged and any gear engaged. As il is
unnecessary to select neutral for starting this machine, the simplest
procedure is to always pull in the clutch lever when cranking, and if
machine should have been left in high gear, it is only necessary to press
on the foot ehange pedal twice, to engage low gear for starting off.
Although on other machines it is common practice to come to neutral
when stopping, on this type of machine it is just as convenient to leave
the machine in gear.
Learning to R,itle the "B.S.A. 125 c.c.,' on the Road
1. With motor running, pull in clutch lever to handlebar and press
foot gear change lever down. If engagement is not immediately
made, rock the machine ahead slightly and then press again.
2. Gradually release clutch lever while progressively opening throttle.
3. Change to second gear at about 10-12 m.p.h. by pulling in clulch and
moving gear pedal upwards.
4. Accelerate to 15-20 m.p.h. before changing to High, Pu11 in cluteh
lever and move gear lever upwards.
5. Whenever top gear speed drops below 15 m.p.h. on load, change to
2nd gear.
6. Whenever 2nd gear speed drops below 10 m.p.h. on load. change
to Low.
(b) Operating the B.S.A. 250 c.c.

Controls.
THROTTLE-Right handlebar twist grip opening "inwards."
X'LOAT TICKLER-On carburetor for cold starting. No air lever
is used.
CLUTCH-LefI handlebar lever.
BRAKES-Rear wheel left side foot pedaI, front wheel right handlebar
lever.
GEARSHIFT-EooI change, right side foot pedal. Positive ratchet
mechanism, one push either way seleets lower or higher gear.
OPERATING TIIE B.S,A. 250 C,C. 95
A}IMETER SWITC}I GEAR
0lpPER, sl{llcH I{(}Pts{ BUITI]N
LEVER IROIfi BRAIG
THR()ITI.E IWISI GRIP

PETROT (oner tu DlnEe,TloN
FILLER CAP 0r ARRolv)
SPEEDOMTTER FO[]T GEAN CHANGE
RTARBRAKt-d
PEIRIII IAP
KICKSTARTER
tlrl FltrER cAp

IU. 33
B.S.A. 250 c.o. TYPEI CONTBOL IITYOUT
96 MOTORCYCLE OPEIRATION
Gear positions: Low, up; Neutral, 2nd and. Brd, dow"n. Neutral
selected by a light push down from Iow or up from 2nd.
STARTER-Kickstarter right siale peatat.
GAS TAP-Left side of tank. push off and push on.
SWITCH-Key type ignition switch combined with light switch in
. headlight. *
Motor Sta,rting Proendure (motor cold).-
1. Push on gas tap.
2. Depress float "tickler,, until gas appears at carburetor body base.
. 3. Open throttle slightly not more ttran ya-/e of fully open.
4. Turn on ignition key.
5. Press down starter quiekly.
NOTE. No compression release is used on these models and none
is required. The most effective method of kickstartinC is to
straighten out your leg as weight is thrown onto starter. trris wiu
spin the motor much more quickly than by just kicking oa the
starter using the leg muscles only.
Learning to B,ide the .,8.S.A. 250 c.c." on the Road
1. With motor idling, pull in clutch lever fully. Move geat.shif t
Iever up, engaging low gear.
2. Gradually release the clutch lever while progressively opening
the throttle.
3. change to 2nd gear at 12-7b m.p.h., pull in clutch rever to handrebar,
close throttre and depress gear change lever. Release erutch and
gradually open throttle.
4. Accelerate to a speed ot 20-2b m.p.h. before making change into
3rd gear in the same manner.
(c) Operating Procedure-British Singles Bb0-800 c.e. Tlpes

(Genera,lly appliaable to Ariel, B.S.A., Ivtra,tolrless, Norton,
antl Royal Enfield gS0-S00 c.c. Singtes)
Controls:
THROTTLE-RighI handlebar twist grip, opening ..inqrards.,,
IGNITION-Left handlebar lever advancing ,.forward', on Ro5ral
Enfield and Ariel, advancing .,rearward.', on Norton, Matchlss
and B.S.A.
AIR SLIDE-Right handlebar lever opening air slide ..inwards.,,
E loat "tickler" on carburetor for cold starting"
coMPRESsroN RELEASE-Exhaust rifter. Lever on left handrebar.
CLUTCH-Left handlebar lever.
BRAKES-Rear wheel reft slde foot pedal, front wheer right handrebar
lever.
GEAIISHTI'T-F oot change right side foot pedal. positive ratehet
mechanism. One_ push eif_her way seleets a lower or higher gear.
Gear positions: Low, up; Neutral, Znd, 3rd afld 4th, down. Neutral
selected by light push either down from low or up from second.
See illustration 32.
STARTER-Kickstarter right side pedat.
OPERATING BRITISH SINGLES 97
CLUTCH LEVER
EXHAUST
LI FTER STEERI NG
DAMPER
FRON T
BRAKE
AIR CONTROL
MAONETO HORN BUTTON

CONTROL
IH ROTTLE
TWIST GRIP
FOOT BRAKE GEAR CHANGE

LEVER
FOOTRESi
I
FOOTREST.
SIARTER
rll. 34
ENGLISH TYPE CONTROL LAYOUT

This mntrol layout illustrated is t]'pical of most English 350-500 c.c. single models. Ttre
exhaust llfter (compresslon release trever) is located on top of the bars oD sorre Eoalels. Ou
many 1946 and later models incorporating automatic iglition adYance, the magtreto control
lever is eliminated.
GEARSEII'T-Triumph antl light type Burman gearboxeg: Low-Down, 2ntl, 3rd and 4th-Up.
Ariel, Norton, B.S.A., Enfield, Matchless and all heavJrwelsht Buman ged.rboxes: Low-Up,
2nd, 3rd and 4th-Down. (see iuEtration No. 32.)
GAS TAP-Push on and push off taps are generally used, Where there
are two taps, one tap should be left off for reserve supply. On
double ended plunger, reserve type taps, round end -6ontro1s
main supply and hexagon end reserve gas supply.
Motor Starting, Proaedure (motor cold):-

1. Push on or pull out gas tap plunger (on),
2, Press float "tickler" until gas appears at carburetor body base,
3. Open throttle slightly, not more than 7/e or r/a of fully open.
Close air lever.
4. Set spark one half advance,
5. Press down kickstarter pedal, until compression is felt, then
release compression, and move down the starter pedal not more
thran' 2" or 3" further, just enough to get .,past compression.,,
6. Let the kickstarter pedal return to .,top,, position, then come
down on starter pedal with all your weight, straightening out your
leg to provide the most effective use of weight.
7. After motor is started up, immediately open air lever about t/s
way and move to fully ,'open,, position as motor becomes warmed up.
Learning to Ride the ,.350 c.c.-500 c.c. Single', on the Road

1. With motor idling, pull in clutch 1ever and move gearshift lever up,
engaging low gear.
2. Gradually release the clutch lever while progressively opening the
throttle,
3. Accelerate to at least 15 m.p.h., change to 2nd gear by pulling
in clutch Iever to handlebar, closing throtile, and depresiing gear
change pedal. Release clutch and gradually open throttle.
4. Accelerate to a speed of at least 20-2b m.p.h. before making change
to 3rd, gear in the same manner.
5. Accelerate to at least 25-80 m.p.h. before making change to high
gear likewise.
6. NOTE.-Do not slip the clutch unnecessarily. Confine its use
for gear changing and make full use of the 4 speed foot cha:rge
gear unit. Remember that it is much easier on the motor, chains
and transmission, to run the motor fast in the lower gears, rather
than to allow it to run too slowly in the higher gears.
7. Whenever top gear speed drops to below 25 m.p.h., change to 3rd,
and'w,hen speeds drop belo'w 15-20 m.p.h., drop lo 2nd. Changing to
lower gear from high is just the reverse motion. Kick up on the
pedal and allow it to return to its normal location. One movement
will change one gear only regardless of the pressure. Use sufficient
pressure to assure positive change but avoid unnecessarily excessive
force.
8. Spark should be fully advanced under all normal conditions at above
30 m.p.h. in high gear. Retard slightiy at lower speeds and under
heavy load conditions, especially when detonation (knocking) is
evident.
OPERATING PROCEDURES 99
(d) Operating the "Indian .V, Ihins"

Controls:
THRoTTLE-Left handrebar grip opening "inwards,, arternative
right handlebar twist grip opening ,,inwards.,,
IGNITION-RighI handlebar twist grip advancing ,,inwards,, alterna_
tive left handlebar twist grip advincing .,imiards.,,
CHOKE-Lever on carburetor air intake operating .,butterfly,, choke.
Down position chokes. Lever must be fully .,up,, toi normal
running after w,arming up. (Note: Choke 1eve-r operation is
reversed on earry type carburetors not fitted with aii creaners.)
cLUTCH-Left side foot board "heer and toe,, rocking pedal. pressing
the toe pedal disengages, pressing heel pedal, eng1ges. (Note: On
some modeis, this pedal operation is reversed.l -
GEARSHmT-Hand lever at right side of tank (alternative reft side of
tank with reversed throttle and ignition controls). Gear positions
from front to back in line: Low, Neutral, 2nd and Brd.
BRAKES-Rear wheel by right foot pedal; front wheel,
-operated.
right or left handlebar lever.
STARTER-Kickstarter right side foot pedal.
GAS TtA.NKS-Main supply, left tank; reserve, rear section right tank.
OIL TANK-I''ront section right side tank (except Junior Scout
model-oil tank rear section right side tank).
Motor Starting Procedure (motor cokl):_
1. Turn on main gas tank tap (left side).
2. Depress crutch heel pedar to eng'ag:e clutch, gear lever neutrar.
3. Press down ehoke lever to full choke position.
4. Open throttle about 7/+.
5. Set spark abottt a/z advance.
6. Throw your weight onto the kickstarter with your reg straightened
out, to spin motor quickly, twice.
I
7. Move choke lever to one-third choke position.
8. Turn on ignition switch.
9' Apply weight to kickstarter as No. 6, motor should start.
10. After motor has run 2 or B minutes, open choke completely.
vyhen Motor is rrot-Do not use the ehoke. This wilr not be necessary
unless carburetor needles are out of adjustment. see chapt"r"
Eifteen for instructions-on_how to ad-just this type of r'o"i u"o
"u"t,r"uio". rt
motor has become "overloaded,, by choliing ,,yhen Lot, op"n-tfre-ifrrottfe
fully and turn motor over a couple of tiies. This will allow more
t to enter and clear out the excess !as.
air
Learning to Ritle the ..Indian .V, Twin,, on the Boad
1. rdre motor, disengage crutch b-y compretery d,epressing toe pedal.
Move gearshift lever to forward posir_ion, engaging low"gear.'
2. Gradual1y engage clutch by depressing heel pedal ana pr:ogressivety
opening throttle.
3. Change to second gear at about 15 m.p.h. close throt,e,
disengage clutch completely by depressing toe pedal, *o"u ,g"*-and
shift lever back, through neutral, to 2nd g"r" po*itiur,, u"s"s"
clutch while gradua[y opening throtile.
HEADLICHT
TGNITION AND LICIIT SWITC1I
HORN BUTTON
FRONT BRAKE LEVER
GAS TANK FILLER OIL TANK FILLER
GEARSHIFT
HAND LEVER
TWIST GRIP TIVIST CRIP

\
CLUTCH
FOOT PEDAU
CHOKE LEVER
REAR BRAKE FOOT PEDAL
MAIN GAS TANK RESERVE GAS TANK
KICKSTARTER PEDAL
I
rtl. 35
THE INDfAN CONTROL L]\TOUT

STANDARD CoNTROLS-198+-1952, 50.5", ed 80" TWIN IIODELa.
GEARSHIFT-RighI tank slde leve!, Low ahead, Neutral, 2nd and 3rd gears back'
CLUTCH-Depresslng toe pedal disengages. Depressing heel pedal engages.
'
REVERSED CONTROLS-NoIe:-Some models were ploduced witi levelsed controis :
Lefl Side Gear Lever, Clutch Pedal-disengaged heel down, engaged toe down'
ThrottlFright hand.
I
OPERATING HARLEY-DAVIDSON 45" TWIN ].01
4. Accelerate to over 2b m.p.h. before changing to high gear rikewise,

5. NOTE: Although the fndian Oil TJDe Ctutch can be slipped a
certain amount without bad effects, it is good policy to- avoid
unn_ec-essary slipping and to change from high gear down to 2nd
at beiow 25 m.p.h. Change from 2nd. to low gear when speed is
below 12-15 m.p.h.
6. Under normal eonditions, spark should be fully advanced at about
30 m.p.h. in high gear, retard. slightly at low-er speeds and under
heavy load conditions, especially whLn detonation (knocking) is
evident.
7. When stopping, always change to neutral and leave clutch engaged,
ready for re-starting.
Horv, to Minimize "Indian Clutc,h Drag, and Gear .,Grindingp
1. Maintain correct clutch pedar adjustment with minimum srack;
2. Use two grades lighter oil in primary drive than being used in
the motor. S.A.E. L0 in ,winter and No. 20 or B0 in suiemer are
the heaviest to be used in primary drive.
3. "l'ree" the clutch plates by kicking down on the starter once or
twice with the clutch disengaged, before starting up.
I 4. rdle the motor as srowry as possible especiaily when changing into
low gear, and move the gear lever into engagement quicf,ty.
Indian Control Layout Note:-
1941 model 741, also 87,,,45,, arrd 74,,models
prior to 1984:
GEARSHIX'T-Right lever: Iow, up; Neutral, 2nd and Brd, dov",n.
(e) Operating the Harley-Davidson 48,, Twin

(Controls and instructions Iisted apply to 1gdl and earlier
Harley 45" moftls with hand gearshift and foot clutch).
Controls.
THROTTLE-Right handlebar grip, opening .,inwards.,,
IGNITION-LefI handlebar grip, advancing,,inwards.,,
CHOKE-Lever on carburetor air intake operating ,,butterfly,, choke,
up position .,chokes,,, Iever must be fully down for normal
operation after warming up.
CLUTCH:LefI side footboard ,,heel and toe', rocking foot pedal,
depressing heel pedal dise4gages clutch, depressing toe -pedai
engag'es.
GEARSHTF T-Hand rever with gate on left side of tank. Gear positions
from front to back: lo,w,, neutral, znd and Brd,
BRAKES-Rear wheel operated by right foot pedal, front wheel
Ieft handlebar lever.
cAS TANK vAlvE-shut off varve knob on top of tank in front of
filler cap. When knob is screwed down (clockwise), gas supply
is shut off. When unscrewed (anti-clockwise), main Iu"
""i,ify
of top 2a/a gallons from a full tank is supplied. t.or resJrve .rrppty
of 3/a gallon at bottom of tank, pult: Irnob fully up. NOTE: If knob
is pulled up only part way gas supply may be completely shut

off; run with knob down until reserve supply is required, then
pull up all the way.
STEERING DAMPER-Knob on top of steering head stem. Note:
This damper tightens anti-clockwise, and is loosened by clockwise
movement. This is opposite to all other dampers. This should, be
applied only lightly for normal use; increase tension for high
speed operation.
PANEL INDICATOR BULBS-Left panel light (green), indicates
generator is not charging. This light should go out at over 20
m.p.h. in high gear, indicating generator is charging and cutout
points have closed. Right panel light (red) indicates lack of oil
pressure. This light should go out as oil pressure is developed
immediately after motor starts.
Motor Starting Procedure (motor cold);-
1. Open gas tank valve, unscrew knob anti-clockwise.
2. Gear lever neutral and engag:e clutch, toe pedal down.
3, Pull up choke lever to full choke position.
4. Kick starter twice with open throttle.
5. Move choke lever down to rl choke position.
6. Turn on ignition switch.
7. Set throttle between t1, and y4 open, spark % or more advance.
8. Throw your weight onto kickstarter quickly, Motor should start.
9. Advance spark fully, and after motor warms up, open choke fully.
Loarning to B,itle the Harley-Davidson 45" Twin on the Road
1, Idle motor, disengage clutch by depressing heel pedal and mot'e
gearshift lever forward into low gear. (If low gear does not readily
engage, rock machine ahead slightly to enable gear dogs to engage.)
2. Gradually engage clutch by depressing toe pedal and progtessively
open throttle. (Note: To obtain smooth start it is important that
the foot should be completely rested on clutch pedal contacting
both heel and toe pedals to enable the clutch to be gradually
"rocked" into engagement. Clutch pedal should not be fully
engaged until machine is underway at 5-8 m.p.h.
3. Change to 2nd gear at about 15 m.p'h. close throttle, disengage
clutch and move gear lever back through neutral to 2nd gear
position. Engage clutch and gradually open throttle.
4. Accelerate to about 25 m.p'h. before changing into high gear
likewise.
5. NOTE!:-The Harley-Davidson clutch will withstand considerable
amount of slipping and can be slipped at low speeds to give a
smoother drive. However, it is better policy to avoid unnecessary
slipping of clutch and to change down from high to 2nd gear when
road speed drops below 20-25 m.p'h. and down to low below 10-12
m.p.h.
6. Spark control should be fully advanced under normal conditions.
Retard spark slightly when necessary under heavy load conditions
at speeds under 35 m.p.h. to avoid detonation.
?, Develop the habit of using both brakes, avoid excessive rear brake
applica+-ion as rear wheel skidding on this model is easily caused
by too much rear brake pedal pressure.
i
OPERATING HARLEY-DAVIDSON 45" TWIN 103

I
GENERATOR CHARCINC
INDICATOR BULB SPEEDO]IIETER
GAS TANK FILLER
OIL PUMP
GEARSHIFT HAND LEVER INDICATOR BULB
HEADLIGHT DIP-SIVITCH
OIL TANK FILLER
HORN BUTTON
FRONT
BRAKE LEVER
TWIST CRIP TWIST GRIP

IGNITION CONTROL THROTTLE CONTROL
CLUTCH
FOOT PEDAL REAR BRAKE FOOT PEDAL
CHOKE LEVER
XICKSTARTER PEDAL
Ilt. 36
THE IIARLEY-DAVIDSON 45" TYPE CONTROL LITYOUT
GEARSHIFT-Lo]# ahead, Neutral, 2nd and grd gears back.
FOOT CLUTCH PEDAl-Depressing heel pedal disengages. Depresstng toe pedal
engages.
REVERSED coNTRoLs-Note some ex-canadian Army moders are in use rrttxr
Left Hand Throtile and Right Hand Ignttion Controts.
8. When stopping, it is most convenient to change to neutral just

before machine comes to a standstill, and leave elutch engag:ed,
ready for restarting.
Harley-DavirlsonFork Ritle Control Adjustment-This tightens
clockwise and loosens anti-clockwise. A very light application is best
for normal riding. Tighten slightly more for high speed operation on
rough roads. Avoid over-tightening; do not tighten more than sufficient
to check excessive rebound.
(f) Operating the Triumph Twin

Controls:
THROTTLE-RighI handlebar twist grip operating "inwards."
IGNITION-Au+-omatic spark advance on 1946 and later models, 1940
and earlier, left handlebar lever, advancing "inwards."
AIR SLIDE-PIunger on top of carburetor 7946-7947 models, push
down and turn to rear to close, turn ahead to release; 1940 and
earlier models, right handlebar lever, opening "inwards." 1948-
1952 models with AmaI carburetor lever on left rear frame except
"Trophy" model, Iever and handlebar. 1952 650 c.c. models rrith
S.lI. carburetor press lever up at bottom of carburetor, for coid
starting. FuIIy dorvn posi+-ion for normal running.
r
CLUTCH-LefI handlelcar lever.
BRAKES-Rear rvheel, left foot pedal, front wheel, right handiebar
Iever.
GEARSHIF T-Foot change-right side pedal Positive ratchet
mechanism, one push either way selects Iower or higher gear.
Gear positions: Low, down; Neutral, Znd, 3rd and 4th, up. Neutrai
selected by light push up from low or down from 2nd.
STARTER-Kickstarter-right side pedal.
GAS TAPS-Where two taps are used, one tap should be left off as
reserve suppiy. On double-ended plunger type taps note the round
end of plunger is main supply and dranvs gas froin a lever of about
t/2tt aboye bottom of tank. To obtain reserve supply at bottom of
tank, pull out hexagon plunger also.
IGNITION CUTOUT-Motor is stopped by an ignition cutout button
located on handlebar except 1949 and later models with "Nace1le"
having a cutout button centrally located between ammeter and
headlight switch.
Motor Starting Procedure (motor colcl):-
1. PuIl out gas tap plunger or turn tap on.
F
2. Depress "float tickler" until gas appears at carburetor body base.
3. Open throttle slightly, not more than 7/s-7/+ of fully open. Close
air lever.
4. Operate kickstarter.
5. As soon as motor starts, open air lever about 7//B and gradually
move to fully open position as motor becomes warmed up. Note:
On the 1946-7947 models with piunger air slide control on top
of carburetor, which is rather inaccessitrle, this control can be
dispensed with, just flooding the carburetor sufficiently for coid
starting.
OPX}RATING TRIUMPH TWIN 105
SPETDOI.ITIER
(UT OUl BUIIOII LIGHI SWIITl{

AHI,IEItR rROilI BRAI(E
ttJT(ir
THROTTLE
HORI{
BUITOII DIPPIR
swtTcl,l
PETRO t
TILLIR
ffi
,G
EARCHAIIGE
i(l Cl(SIARTER
fOOIBRAl(E
I
TOOIRESI IOOTRESI
NEARSIDE OFFSIDE
LEFT-HAND RIGHT.HAND
rrl. 37
THE TRIUMPII TWIN CONTROL I;TYOUT
I'OOT GEARSIIIFT PEDAL-LoW gear, down; Neutral, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears, up.
CARBURETOR AIR OR MIXTURE CONTROI-ThiS is not shown on the above illustratlon
but is l@ated as follows: 1949-1952 Models with Amal Carburetor, on left rear frme tube
above battery: 1946-L9+7 Models, Plunger on top of carburetor; "Arophy" Model and pre-194o,
right handlebar lever; 1952 "Thunderbird," with S.U. Carburetor, lever below carburets,
lever "up" for starting, "down" for running,
When Motor is Hot-Do not flood the carburetor; this will not be
necessary unless carburetor mixture is too weak.
Loarning to Ride the Triumph Twin on the ,Roatl

1. NOTE.-The clutch runs in oil and a tendency for the clutch plates
to stick and consequently "grind" going into low gear, may be
experienced. This is minimized by using nothing heavier than
S,A.E. No. 10 oil in the chaincase. Before starting the motor, it is
good policy to pull in the clutch lever and kick down the starter once
or twice; this will "free" the clutch plates.
2. With motor idling, pull in clutch lever fully, press gearshift pedal
dow,n engaging low gear.
3. Gradually release clutch lever while progressively opening thr'ottle.
4. Change to 2nd gear at about 15 m.p.h. Pull in clutch lever and
press up on gearshift pedal.
5. Accelerate to 20-25 m.p.h. before changing into 3rd gear likewise.
6. Accelerate to at least 25-30 m.p.h. before engaging high gear.
7, NOTE:-Although due to the exceptionaliy smooth running
characteristics, of this type, it is possible to run very slowly even
in high gear, particularly on the 350-500 c.c. sizes, it is advantageous
to change down to 3rd when top gear speed drops below 25 m.p.h. on
Ioad, and on the 650 c.c. motors, at belorv 30 m.p.h.
(g) Operating the Villiers lZ5-?O0 c.c. Two-Stroke \pe

The control layouts and operar-ing procedures of the various makes
using Villiers Tw,o-Stroke motors are much the same. The instructions
detailed oover the 1949-1952 types. They are generally applicable to the
1948 and earlier 725 c.c. model, except for the hand gearshift. Hand
gearshift positions on this tgre are low, up; neutral, 2nd and Srd, dow'n.
Controls:
fIIROT"LF-Right handlebar twist grip, opening "inwards."
CHOKE-125 c.c. model-on carburetor air intake, up position
"chokes," down position "opens."
200 c.c. models-Handlebar mixture control, forward position
' Carburetor Float "tickler" on both models.
CLtl'ICH-Left handlebar leYer.
BRAKES-Rear, left side foot pedal; front, right handlebar lever.
GEARSHIFT-F oot change right side pedal, positive ratchet
mechanism. One push either way selects low'er or higher gear.
Gear positions; Low, up; neutral, 2nd and 3rd, dot'n. Neutral
is selected by a light push up from 2nd, or down from lolv.
STARTER-Right sicle foot pedal.
GAS TAP-Under tank.
Motor Starting Procedure (rnoto!: cold):-
1. Gas and oil should be mixed in a separate eontainer if convenient,
before putting in tank. ff not, put gas in tank first, shut off tap
and rock machine as oil is poured in. Once oil is well mixed with
gas it will not settle for a considerable time. It is a good
ACQI.IIRING RIDING SKILL LO7
precaution, however, to shut off the gas tap whenever machine

is not to be run for a few days.
2. Push gas tap "on" and depress float ,,tickler,, until gas appears
at carburetor.
3. On 125 c.c. model close choke, moving lever up; on 200 c,c. model
move handlebar lever forward to ,,rich,, position.
4. Press down starter quickiy and as soon as motor starts open
ehoke about half way and gradually open fully as motor becomes
warm. On the 200 c.c. modeI, gradually move handlebar lever
toward the "weak" position and operate in as weak a position as
possible, without causing excessive hesitation in acceleration.
VYhen Motor is Hot never use the float tickler and do not ,,choke,,
unless necessary. ff motor has become overloaded by excessive flooding
or choking, shut off gas tap, open throttle wide and, kick over a number
of times. In extreme cases, it may be necessary to remove the crankcase
drain plug to clear out the excess gas, and spark plug centre electrode
insulator may have to be dried off.
Learning to Ride the Villlers L25-2OO c.c. TJrues on the Road
1. IdIe motor, pull in clutch lever and move gear lever up to low
position.
2. Gradually release clutch while progressively opening throttle.
3. Change to 2nd at about 10-12 m.p.h. by pulling in the clutch and
pressing gear lever down to 2nd.
4. Accelerate to 75-20 m.p.h. (125 c.c.) and 20-2i m.p.h. (200 c.c.)
before changing into high gear, pull in cluteh and press g:ear
lever down.
5. Whenever top gear speed drops betow 20 m.p.h. on load on 125 c.c.
, and below 25 m.p.h. on 200 c.c. change to 2nd.
Stopping Villiers Motors-Some models are fitted with a compression
for stopping engines. On those that are not, it is customary to
_release
have the carburetor throttle control set so that when throtfle is iutly
closed, motor will stop.
Seetion 3
ACQUMING RIDING SKILL

Riding skill is generally acquired progressively as riding experience
increases. Any rider, ho'wever, can rapidly develop his riding ability by
giving some thought to his operating methods, and by endeavoring to
follow the best practices and avoiding common bad riding habits.
Skillful riding means riding well within the limitations of your
own capabilities, traffic, pedestrian and road surface conditions, and
quite important, keeping in mind the "Stopping Distance,, you require.
The qualified motorcyclist will certainly let these factors always have an
influence on his riding, and can usually be identified by his
inconspicuousness.
A habit not uncommon to many riders that has no merit and should
be discouraged in every possible way, is that of attempting to "sho'w off"
on the road or highway. Common bad practices that may well be avoided
by the new rider and discontinued by the experienced rider who should
know,better, are: Riding with straight through exhaust; taking highway
curves and corners at traffic intersections unnecessarily fast; overtaking
on hills and immediately in front of oncoming traffic, usi4g excessive
acceleration starting off from traffic lights, etc. These undesirable activities
unfortunately endanger more than the guilty individuals.
Common sense and good judgment are the requisites for skillful
riding. Combine these with a sound understanding and intelligent use of
your machine, and you are well on the road to being an "Expert"
motorcycle rider.
Riiling Position-A relaxed riding position enables better control of
the machine, and reduces riding fatigue. Avoid any tendency to grip the
bars tightly; rest the hands with a light but secure grip on the bars
with the arms relaxed.
Adjusting B,irling Position-On machines where foot rests, saddle
and handlebars are adjustable, these should be adjusted to give a
comfortable position. Hand clutcli and brake levers will be found most
easy to operate if dropped slightly below horizontal.
Footrest Position-F ootrests located directly below the saddle are
considered to provide the safest riding position. where machines are
fitted with both bootboards and auxiliary footresLs, the foolrests which
wi]l be located below the saddle, should be used for riding on rough roads.
These enable the rider to rise out of the saddle for negotiating severe
bumps and it wiII be found that this practice enables best control of the
machine to be maintained. Standlng on footrests and bending at knees
to absorb shock when riding over very rough sections is recognized as
an aid to maintaining machine control.
Signalltng-Motor traffic regulations concerning signalling vary in
various parts of North America. The most important traffic signal which
is universally accepted, however, is extending the left arm horizontally for
a left turn signal. The greatest turning hazard, in traffic is with the left
turn. It is important to get into the extreme left traffic lane t'e1l in
advance of where a turn is to be made, and to give the left turn signal
anywhere from 50 to 100 yards in advanee of the intersection, depending
on speed of travel. When a right turn is to be made the right traffic lane
should likewise be entered well in advance of turn.
Turning indicator signal lights, now very popular on automobiles, are
not yet in general motorcycle use, and these are not legal in all areas'
Signal lights, of course, are most effective, and the best method of
signalling for night driving. During day operation, however, even if
equipped with signal lights, for the left turn in particular, it is rvise
to supplement with the hand signal.
Stop Lights*Stop lights are g:radually becoming standardized on
motorcycles, although there are a Sreat many machines in use without this
equipment. Stop lights, like the directional signal lights, are particularly
effective at night, but in the interests of his own safety, the motorcyclist
is wEll advised dirring day operation, to give a hand signal when slowing
down, the accepted signal generally being-moving the left arm up and
down from the side to horizontal position. It is also wise to pull in as far
to the right as possible before coming to a stop.
ACQUIRING RIDING SKILL 109
Headlight Beam-Dip-Switch-Traffic regulations generally require

use of the low headlight beam in cities and towns, and the dipping,, of
the high beam for approaching traffic on the highway. Having the
headlight set to give the most suitable beam adjustment is most important
to night driving safety. Generally, an adjustment that provides the main
beam centered on the road abou+- 50 to ?5 yards ahead, and the low,beam
25 yards ahead, is most satisfactory.
Br.aking-It is important to develop the habit of using both front
and rear brakes. Contrary to common belief, the front wheel brake
provides the greatest stopping capacity on most machines. Many riders
make the mistake of relying on the rear brake almost exclusively. There
are numerous advantages to developing the habit of using both brakes; less
pressure is required on each brake, and therefore likelihood of skidding is
greatly reduced; also in the event of an emergency the habit formed of
putting on bo+-h brakes simultaneously will enable a much quicker stop
to be made than if the front brake has to be applied as an after-thoughf.
Discretion, of course, must be exercised in the use of brakes. Never
stop a great deal more quickly than is necessary, and when making a
sudden stop, where possible, aseertain that you are reasonably clear of
traffic behind, or pull in as well to the right as possible.
On slippery surface conditions, brakes, of course, shouid be applied
gently. This applies particularly to loose gravei roads, paved surfaces on
which there is loose sand or gravel; any road surface under ice or snow
conditions, and 'wet "black top" paving, especially after the start of a
rai.n before oil deposit from traffic is thoroughly washed away,
Traction is greatly reduced under such conditions, and to avoid danger
of skidding, gentle application of brakes is most essential. ,.Locking', the
front wheel is more likely to cause loss of control of the machine than
the same occurring on the rear wheel, and for this reason front wheel
braking should be undertaken with caution on slippery surface conditions.
Braking should always be done before entering a curve. If a curve is
entered too fast and it is necessary to do some braking as entering a
curve, it is more advisable to drag the rear brake. Hard application of the
front brake should not be made when entering a curve as under such
eonditions, if the wheel should "Iock," a spill is 1ike15r to occur.
Keep Your Feet "IIp"-Never "foot" when you can possibly avoid it.
Keep your feet well planted on the foot boards or footrests whenever
you are on the move. In starting off, place your free foot on its rest
or on foot board, and place the other one on just as soon as the machine
gets into motion. Nothing upsets the stability and detracts from the
controlability of the machine more than trailing feet. Footing on curves
is quite unnecessary, and decidedly bad form under touring or racing
conditions, except under certain rare exceptions such as dirt track
"broad sliding" and sand racing. Light footing may be permissible and
an advantage on curves taken slow1y when roads are extremely icy
or muddy. Aside from these exceptions, keep your feet "up" and you are
more likely to stay "up."
Make Full Use of the Gears-To obtain the high performance most
modern machines will provide, it is desirable to utilize the "gears.,,
Change to a lower gear immediately speed starts to noticeably drop off on
Ioad. It is far easier on the machine to drop to 3rd or 2nd on a hill,
even though it might just be made on high. The added acceleration
available in lower ratios will be found a pleasing advantage.
Changing from a higher to a lower gear-Note that motor speed

should be increased when clutch is disengaged before changing: to a lower
gear. It is generally not advisable to shift to low g:ear until the machine
is travelling slower than 15 m.p.h., otherwise an unnecessary strain is
imposed on the transmission.
Section 4
DBTVING A SIDECAR, OUTrIT

"Driving" a sidecar outfit calls for considerably different technique
than "riding" a solo machine. The main difference is in cornering and
steering. On a solo machine, when on the move, there is practicaliy no
conseious movement of the handlebars, all steering and cornering being
done unconsciously by "banking" the machine.
With a sidecar outfit the machine is practically vertical to the road
surface at all times and steering and cornering are aecomplished solely
by movement of the handlebars. This necessitates a considerable
movement of the handlebars and it is this difference that causes some
experienced solo drivers to encounter some difficulty in handling a
sidecar outfit until familiarity is acquired.
It is very advisable for even the most experienced solo rider to
concentrate keenly on the need for "steering" the sidecar outfit instead of
"banking," tr'ailure to appreciate this point may result in an accident from
not being able to negotiate a turn or avoid an obstacle quickly enough.
Taking Turns at Sp€ed With Eight-Hantl Sideca,r-It should be
realized that when taking a right-hand turn there is a natural tendency
for the sidecar wheel to lift. This tendency varies according to the speed
and sidecar load. With an empty sidecar, right-hand curves must be taken
comparatively slowly to avoid lifting the sideear wheel. With a passenger
or equivalent load in the sidecar, right-hand curves can be taken at
moderate speeds without lifting. It is an a,dvantage, however, for both the
driver and passeng'er to lean to the right-hand in order to put more
weight on the sidecar wheel on any right-hand curves r-hat are taken at
appreciable speed. The speed should be reduced before reaching the curve
and the machine accelerated slightly as it enters the curve as the machine
has greater distance to travel than the sidecar on right turns.
Turning teft with a right-hand sidecar does not present any difficulty.
Most of the weight is thrown on the sidecar wheel but due to the weight
of the motorcycle and driver there is not much danger of the motorcycle
lifting. Left turns at speed are facilitated if the driver and passenger
lean to the left.
Taking Turns at Speed \ilith Left-Hand Sideoar-Most English sidecars
fit on the left side of the maehine and this fitting ca,lls for a reversal
of the weight-shifting and cornering technique described above. Right-hand
turns can be taken at considerable speed without difficulty as the sidecar
wheel takes the load. Left-hand turns, however, require care. There is
a natural tendency for the sidecar wheel to lift, especially without
a passeng:er or sidecar load. T'his tendency can be reduced by leaning
to the left. With a sidecar passenger or load, left turns can be taken.at
moderate speed without lifting. The machine should be slowed down to a
suitable speed before reaching a left turn and accelerated slightly as it
SAE.ETY HINTS
enters. This is desirable due to the rnachine having to travel a rather

greater distanee than the sidecar on left turns.
Use of the Steerlng I)amper on Sidecar Service-The steering damper
can be used to great advantage with a sidecar. It should le tightenea
down (clockwise) sufficient to eliminate any tendency to ..shimmy;, when
the hands are removed from the bars. Adjustment of this is just i matter
of compromise but on most sidecar outfits the best handling ind, minimum
driving fatigue are provided by having the damper tightened up fairly well.
The Indian Model ..340', Sidecar Outfit-There are a number of these
ex-military models in service in America and abroad, without steering
dampers. The lack of dampers makes these models quite difficult anal,
tiring to handle, especially on rough surfaces. Accessory steering dampers
are available and are recommended as well worth the investment fof the
improved handling provided,
Maintenance of the correct sidecar wheel .,toe-in,, and motoreyele
"lean-out," as well as correct tire pressures are important factors towards
providing ease of handJ.ing qnd good steering qualities.
Soction 5
SAT'ETY HINIS
1, Maintain your machine in first class condition.
2. Develop the habit of always using both brakes. Be sure that
either brake is capable of stopping the machine in a reasonable
distance.
3. Check tire pressures at least every week, Check daily under
heavy service conditions.
4. Do not overtake on an up-g.rade, on a curve or when another
vehicle is approaching, unless at a considerable distance.
5. Obey traffic laws. Signal w,hen turning or stopping. Observe
speed limits,
6, Let traffic, visibility, road surface and your ,,stopping', ability
influence your speed at all times.
7. Do not sr\rerve in and out of traffic unnecessarily.
8. Reduce night driving speed. Consider 4E m.p.h. a mar<imum for
night driving.
9. Slow down when approaching a car with bright headtights. Dip
your lights even if the other fellow doesn,t. Blinding him raron,t
improve your vision any.
10. Wear goggles, preferably .,Splinterproof,,, at all times. They are
a very cheap insurance against serious eye damage. Carry [inted
glasses for riding against the sun.
11. Don't brake or accelerate excessively on slippery surfaces or a
serious skid- may result. Speed should be reduced on stippery
sur{ace conditions.
772 MOTORCYCLE OPEIRATION
12.Don'tapplythebrakeswhenentering:acurve'brakebefore'butif
a curvtis-entered too fast, the back brake is the best one to use'
13.Rememberthat..Riding,,asoloand..Driving,,asidecar-outfit
require very different tEchnique' When changing over to a sidecar
orrtflt trorn solo riding it is necessary to concentrate on moving
the handlebars instead of "Banking" for turns'
14."Keepyourfeetup."Itisgenerallyinadvisableto"Foot"unless
ansoiutety,,"""".u'.y.Trailingfeetupsetstabilityandreduceyour
control over the maehine'
15. Don't park the machine on the rear or centre stands on a very
soft surface. tf may topple over' Lean it on something if
convenient, it no prop"stu"i-i" fitt"o' When parking on prop stand
leave in low gear ind with cluteh engaged'
or vehicle' Allow at
16. Don't ride close behind another motoreycle
leastS0feetaheadat20m.p'h.,100feetat30m.p.h.andover
300 feet at 45 to 50 m'P'h'
l7.WetRoadSurfagg5-ftgmgrnberthatroadtractionisgreatly
pavement' block pavement' oiled
reduced wtren wet. Wet black top
road surfaces and wooden bridges are especially hazardous' These
are most slippery immediately after start of rain' Speed should be
reduced o. surfaces, brakes applied very gradually when
necessary and"r"iexcessive acceleration and banking on cornering
avoided.
l8.Tramlinesandrailroadtracksshouldbecrossedatascloseto
right angles as possible with machine vertical' Raised and wet
ra"ilsandtramlin.eswitleasilycauseskidifcrossedatanacute
angle or with machine banked over' It is wise policy to slow down
considerably for all rail crossings'
24 MODER,N MOTORCYCLE DESIGN
The two stroke motor is most suited to the rider who essentially
requires a very light machine of low first cost, mainly for comparatively
light work and trips of moderate distance.
ft is noteworthy that although the deflector type piston was featured
in all two stroke motors for a great many years, this has now been com-
pletely replaced by the "f1at top" piston design using multiple transfer
ports to direct the gas air mixture fro,m the crankcase towards the top
of the cylinder, thus eliminating the need of piston ,,deflectoriqg.,'
(b) Cyliniler Layouts

The motorcycle industry has produced a wide variety of motor cylinder
layouts, as listed below:-
Single Cylinder-V ertical, Inclined and Horizontal mountirlgs.
' Vertical, Horizontal and fnclined parallel twins.
Trvin-Cylinde" "V" twin-Longitudinal and Transverse mountings,
-{ Horizontally opposed twins-Longitudinal and
t Transverse mountings.
[-
Cylinders in line-Longitudinal and Transverse.
I Horizontally opposed four, Transverse mounting.
Four Cylinde" "V" I'ours-Transverse mounting.
-j "Square tr'our"-cylinders in square formation,
| twin geared crankshafts.
[-
Single Cylinder Motors-For many years there have been more single
cylinder motorcycle produced than any other type. In England in particular,
the single cylinder motorcycle engine has been very highly developed.
Since the introduction of the now very well known verticle twin, the
popularity of the single, especially in larger displacement motors, has
been diminishing.
Simplicity of desig'n, low cost of production and ease of servicing are
the chief attributes of the single cylinder motor. The chief disadvanLage
to the single cylinder motors is that slightly more physical effort is
required for starting, in comparison to multi-cylinder eng'ines of similar
capacity. This is only a factor with the larger capacity singles. It is also
necessary to make somewhat more use of the gearbox to maintain smooth-
ness in the power transmission at lower speeds.
On smaller capacity single cylinder models, there is complete smooth-
ness in the driveat speeds in excess of 20 m.p.h., and on the larger capacity
singles, at top gear speeds in excess of 30 m.p.h., the drive is remarkably
smooth. There is'surprisingly little vibration from single cylinder motor-
cycle motors. On most types, there is no objectionable vibration period
except when motor is run towards peak r.p.m. in the intermediate gears.
There is generally little development work now being undertaken on
single cylinder motors of larger than 350 c.c, capacity. It is almost univer-
sally conceded that most future motors in excess of this size will be of twin
cylinder design.
The vertical cylinder position has, for many years, been the most
popular single cylinder layout, although inclined cylinder designs are still
113
CHAPTER F'OUR
M OT ORCY CLE M AITVT EIV ATY CE
Note-This chapter outlines running maintenance requirements and

procedure generally applicable to all British and American machines.
E or specific servicing information applying especially to individual makes,
reference should be made to the servicing chapter of the make concerned.
This can be quiekly located by referring to the summary of contents.
It should be notedr that servicing of units colnrnon to various British
makes such as: Carburetors, Magnetos, Generators, Electrical Systems,
Gearboxes, ete., is covered in Chapter 16, "Reconditioning and Servicing
British Models."
Section 1
PUTTING A NEW MODEL IIVTO SEB,VICE

Before putting a new model into service, it is advisable to carefully
review the manufacturer's instructions, which are usually contained in the
tool box. New owners, especially, will find the detailed operating
instructions contained in the next chaper of this book, well worth reviewing.
Motorcycle Assembly-Unfortunately, most motorcycles, particularly
imported mod,els, do not reach the owner completely factory assembled.
Although originally all motoreycles are assembled and tested, the machines
exported to this continent are partially dismantled for shipping. It has been
found that there is a considerable variation in the standards of assembly.
In many cases, control cables are not "routed" properly, fork oil supply
may be incorrect, and generally the standard of tightening nuts and
bolts leaves considerable to be desired.
There are, of course, exceptions, and many new machines are delivered
in an excellent state of assembly and adjustment. In view of the variations
in standards of pre-delivery assembly and testing, new owners rarith
some degree of mechanical ability will find it time well spent to
thoroughly check over such items as steering head bearing adjustment,
routing of control cables, secure tightening of fork, frame, handlebar,
footrest and wheel nuts. Adjustment of controls should also be checked
before putting into service, and it should be particularly noted that the
required minimum of 7Aa" clutch cable slack exists; gearbox, engine
and chaincase oil levels should also be verified.
These initial precautions will help to avoid trouble due to errors or
oversights in the final assembly.
714 MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCE
Motorcycle Assembly anil Final Check Canil

Illustrated on the adjoining page is a "Motorcycle Assembly and Final
Check Card" designed especiaily to minimize errors and oversights in the
assembly, final testing and adjusting of new motorcycles, imported
partially dismantled. Where put into service, this system has proved
highly successful.
Motorcycle shops responsibie for assembly and delivering: of new
motorcycles, operating without an established checking system, will find
great benefit to their own efficiency and customer satisfaction by putting
this checking method into operation, A supply of cards can be printed
from the copy illustrated, and a catd used for, and attached to each
machine as assembled.
The blank spaces under the first column (Checked on Assembly),
indicate items that should be checked during or after assembly, but before
putting on the road. The blank spaces under second column (Checked after
Road Test), indicate items to be checked after road test.
This system conscientiously and intelligently applied will do more
to ensure a first class standard of pre-delivery assembly and adjustment i
than can possibly be achieved without an established system.
An added advantage to the motorcycle shop is that a glance at the
card attached to the machine will reveal information as to date of
assembly, grad,es of oil and confirm complete readiness for delivery
or otherwise. For example, if the card shows date of assembly as two
months previous, baf-tery charge and tire pressures will require checking,
also the grade of oil may require changing to suit anticipated temperatures.
Mechanically inclined private owners taking delivery of either a
new or used machine will find completing this assembly and test card
check, time well spent and the surest means of eliminating oversights
that might lead to mechanical trouble.
Bunning-In Speeds-Manufacturers' instruction books usually con-
tain advice regarding running-in speeds. Generally, the important thing
is to provid,e a "progressive" running-in. It is wise to keep the maximum
speed dow,n to the following figures:
First 200 miles:-
L25 c.c. modeIs................................... ...25 m.p.h.
200 e,c,-250 c.c. models... .....................30 m.p.h.
350 c.c.-500 c.c. models... .....................35 m.p.h.
650 c.e. and larger models........... .........40 m.p.h.
Progressively increasing cruising speed 5 m.p.h. at 200-mile intervals
is generally quite safe. During the interval, short bursts of a fraction
of a mile duration to higher speeds, are unlikely to cause harm.
Generally, it is inadvisable to attempt to hold maintained maximum
speed for a considerable distance on a standard machine, until over
1,500 miles have been covered. It should be noted that in some instances,
cooler running spark plugs than the standard equipment are desirable
for maintained maximum speeds. Otherwise, pre-ignition and overheating
may result. Reference should be made to the spark plug chart on
page 132.
tr'ailure to observe the foregoing recommendations during the
running-in period on a new machine may result in considerable motor
damage, piston seizure being the most likely damage to result.
PUTTING A NEW MODEL INTO SERVICE 115
MOTORCYCLE ASSEMBLY AND FINAL CHECK CARD
Ddle Mabe and Modcl Engine Number
Checked Checked
on Af ter
Assembly Ro;d Test
LUBRICATION
GENENAL CI{tr'.CKOIIER
xxxx
xxxxxx
xxxxxx
Motorcycle Assembled, Tested and Adjusted by.................. ... . .
Signdture
Signaturg
Soction 2
MAINIENANCE SYSTEMS
A planned system of motorcycle maintenance pays off in providing

higher standards of reliability, safety and performance as well as reducing
operating costs. The objective of a maintenance schedule systern is to
avoid at one extreme, unnecessarily frequent and time-wasting tinkering
and at the other extreme, neglect to the extent that maintenance attention
is only given when the need becomes exceedingly apparent, sometimes
too late.
Maintenance needs vary in many details with different makes and
models, also according to service conditions, excluding the possibility of
proposing a rigid single maintenance schedule completely applicairle to
lu -macfiines and operating conditions. There is, ho'wever, substantial
similarity in the mainlenance needs of different motorcycles and the
maintenance recommendations detailed in the forthcoming section, should
prove useful as a g'eneral guide to riders of most makes and models under
average conditions.
Where it proves practicable, doing maintenance on a mileage
schedule basis is the most efficient method, and largely eliminates the
possibility of neglect of some items due to oversight. On machines in
irregular use covering a low seasonal mileage, it may be founcl advan-
tageous to effect maintenance on a seasonal or monthly basis, particularly
with regard to lubrication.
Supplementary to the mileag:e maintenance schedule detailed in the
next section, two important items should be checked regularly, best done at
every gas stop, are eng:ine oil supply and tire pressures. Oil level should
be topped up when down one pint or more. Normal averag:e tire pressures
range between 16-20 lbs. front and 18-25 lbs. rear. Reference should be
made to the chart on Section Eleven of this Chapter "Tire Maintenance," for
pressure specifications.
Maintenance Becord Chart
Where maintenance is being done on mileage schedule basis, neglect is

easily eliminated by drawing up a maintenance schedule chart similar
to that illustrated. Hang this Maintenanee Card in your garage or
workshop, or carry in machine tool box' \4rhere convenient, maintenance
should be effected within 100 miles of even 1000-mile speedometer
readings, and the mileage square on the record card checked off,
whenever the maintenance for that mileage is effected.
A log record of replacements and mileages at which such parts were
fitted, as well as details of any overhaul or repair work effected,,
supplementary to the regular maintenance, can be recorded in the log
section of the lower part of the record card illustrated. Having this
information readily available for quick reference proves useful in enabling
quick assessment of the condition of the machine, and aids in determining
at any time what parts may or may not be due for replacement.
MAINTENANCEI SYSTEMS 7]-7
MAINTENACE R,ECORD CIIAtsT

MODEL........ ..............En9ine No.............
Machine No.................................Unit, etc............................... (F or I'leet use)

MILEAGE-Check off when maintenance is effected.
1000 2000 3000 4000 5000
6000 7000 8000 9000 10000
11000 12000 13000 14000 15000
16000 17000 18000 19000 20000
21000 22000 23000 24000 25000
Mileage Becord of Parts Replacetl
Above example of maintenance record card is highly recommended for use

by both private riders end mechanics servicing a nrumber of machines.
h
Section 3
AVERAGE MAINTENANCE R,EQUIR,EIIENTS

1000 Mile Interva,ls
Oil Tank-Change oil immediately after operation when warm.
Remove oil supply drain plug and flush out oil tank or crankcase container.
Clean filters or screens where fitted. (Note: Return screens in crankcase
on models such as Ariel and Triumph do not require cleaning with every
oil change but should be serviced at least at 5000 mile intervals.)
During extremely cold weather operation (below freezing temperatures),
oil should be changed much more frequently to avoid trouble from
condensation and 'water accumulation in oil. More frequent changes are
also advisable operating under dusty conditions, especially where an
efficient carburetor air cleaner is not fitted.
Fill oil tank with oil grade dependent on averag'e temperatures as
follows:
Average Temperature Gra.de of Oil
60 degrees orover.......... . S.A.E. 50 or 60
40-60 d,egrees...................... ....... S.A.E. 40
20-40 degrees...................... S.A.E. 30
0 -20 de9rees...................... S.A.E.20
Below zero... S.A.E. 10
Primary Cha,incaso*On oil bath type fill with S.A.E. 10 oil so that
bottom run of chain is just covered. On types with mechanical or drip feed,
note that setting maintains chain in oily condition. On types without oil
supply, apply chain lubricant.
Gearbox Oil-Top up oil level with same grade used in engine or a
grade lighter. Note-semi-liquid grease is recommended on some Burman
gearboxes, particularly where engine oil is not retained.
Air Clea.ner-Wash element in gasoline or solvent and drain, dip in
light engine oil, drain and refit. (Exception is the B.S.A. TVin type air
cleaner element. This is a dry type and should be washed but not dipped
in oil.) More frequent air cleaner servicing should be given under extremeiy
dusty conditions.
Grease Gun Lubrication-Lubricate all grease nipples. Avoid over
lubricating wheel bearings, brake camshafts or speedometer drives
attached to brake plates. Exeessive grease to these nipples may result in
grease on brake linings.
Oil-All handlebar control pivots, nipples and cables at lever ends. Oil
outer end of brake cam bearings where no grease nipples are filted.
Generator-Two or three drops of oil to commutator end plain
bearing on Lucas generators (1949 and earlier) and to both end bearings
on Indian Auto-lite generators.
Tappets-Inspection is advisable at 1000 mile intervals, particularly
on O.H.V. motors where maximum efficiency is desired. This item can
be deferred to 2000 mile intervals under average service conditions, unless
loss of compression or excessive tappet noise indicates the need for
earlier attention. Check and adjust with motor cold. With rare exceptions
AVERAGE MAINTE}NANCE REQUIREMENTS 119
O.H.V. motors require approximately .001', inlet tappet clearance, (push

rod free to spin or rocker free to slide sideways without perceptible up
and down clearance). .002"-.003,, exhaust tappet clearance is average,
(push rod free to spin with perceptible shake or perceptible shake . in
rocker arm). On side valve motors .004,,-.005,, intake and .007,,-.008,,
exhaust are average clearances. Adjust with motor cold (above does not
apply to O.H.V. Harley models with hydraulic tappets). Refer to.,Clear-
ances and Settings" section of chapter covering make concerned for exact
specifications.
Spark Plugs-Clean and set plugs .015"-.018" on most magneto
all Villiers
equipped models an.d .020"-.025" on coil ignition models and
engines.
Rear Chain-Adjustment is advisable when up and down slaek is
2" or more in middle of run. Adjust to 3/4" up and dowr slack midway in
chain at tightest point. Tighten rear axle nuts securely after adjusting.
On machines operated on paved, roads or relatively dust free conditions
with needle valve oil feed, adjust to keep chain slightly oily. Where no
automatic lubrication is provided, chain can be oiled periodically with
an oil can or special chain lube applied. Where operating off paved roads
under dusty conditions, recommend,ed servicing is to remove chain, wash in
kerosene, drain, soak in heated heavy oil or grease, drain, wipe off surplus
before refitting and adjusting.
Brakes-Adjust to take up for w€ar, tr'ront wheel brake control
adjustment is usually effected by threaded adjuster at bottom end of
outer cable. Rear brake on English machines usually by wing nut or
knurled knob at end of brake rod. On American models, adjust at clevis
at end of brake rod. On Ariels note adjust by brake shoe expander on
brake plate.
Clutch Control-Adjust to provide 7/n't-16't free cable slack on hand
control models at lever and. la"-l2" foot pedal slack measured at footboard
on foot operated clutches.
Battery-Top up with distilled water to level about r/a,, above plates
on standard type batteries, just sufficient to restore moist cell condition
on "Varley" t3pe. Make sure that battery holding strap is tight, terminals
tight and oiled or greased to prevent corrosion. Note:-On Triumph and
B.S.A. TWins it is opportune to combine battery and air cleaner seivicing
in the same operation as battery must be removed, to gain air cleaner
access.
ZfiD Mile Intorvals

Brea,ker Points-Clean and adjust to .072,, gap English magnetos
(B.T.H. and Lucas), .015" Villiers fly'wheel magnetos and most American
magnetos, .020" Indian coil ignition, .022" Hafley-Davidson coil ignition,
.012" Lucas coil ignition. Apply slight amount of grease to breaker cam.
Prima,ry Chain-Check adjustment at tightest point midway. If slack
is 1" or more up and down, adjust to correct Retighten gearbox
securing: bolts securely, and on B.S.A, and Indian Twin .,shoe type,,
adjustments be sure to tighten adjusting screw lock nut.
lWagneto or Genenator Drive Chain-On machines with this equipment
remove covers where necessary to check tension. If slack exceeds a/2,,
adjust to correcl, Y+". When covers are removed it is opportune to
check on condition of magneto and generator bearings by lifting up and
down on armature shaft sprocket nut. If play is in excess of .005,, need
for mag or generator overhaul and bearing attention is indicated. Normally

this is not anticipated in under 10,000-15,000 miles.
General-Check over complete machine front to rear. Tighten all
wheel and fork nuts, engine accessory nuts, bolts and screws.
5-10,000 Mile Intervals

Top Motor Overha,ul-Remove carbon, grind valves, replace piston
rings, exhaust valve springs, gaskets, spark plugs. Note-on 500 c.c. and
smaller eng:ines lvhere it is desired to maintain maximum efficiency and
particulariy where machines are driven hard or operated under severe
conditions, top overhaul at this mileage will g'enerally be beneficial. On
some larger machines operated with an efficient carburetor air cieaner
and under comparatively dust-free conditions, top motor overhaul can
sometimes be extended to 15,000-20,000 mile intervals. Need for top
overhaul is usually evidenced by loss of compression, reduced performance
and excessive engine noise.
Exhaust Va,lve Stem "Sticking"-A trouble that oecurs with some
motors, particularly O.H.V, types, provided with a rather generous oil
supply to the valve mechanism, is the building up of a d,eposit on the
exhaust valve stems of burned on oil and combustion residue. The
development of this trouble is sometimes evidenced by misfiring at high
speed, and a noticeable "clicking" at certain speeds, as a result of the
valve springs being unable to close the valves suffieiently to maintain
standard tappet clearances when operating.
This valve sticking condition sometimes causes need of a top motor
overhaul at a considerably earlier mileage than would otherwise be
necessary. It is important 'when evidence of valve sticking shows up, that
treatment should. be given, as if it is continued to operate the machine
with exhaust valves sticking, valves may be burned a.nd warped to the
extent that refacing will not suffice and replacement will be necessary.
Quite often, satisfactory performance can be restored if the motor is
treated with one of the special preparations available for dealing u-ith
valve sticking trouble. A number of these preparations on the market
are available at automotive supply stores, and are applied by either adding
to oil or for quick treatment, feeding through the carburetor intake
from an oil can.
On machines that are prone to this trouble, it is advisable to use
"heavy duty" oil, and treat with one of the preparations for relief of vah,e
sticking at 1000-2000 mile intervals. When a top overhaul job is being
done, it is most important to have all carbon deposit and burned on oil
from the exhaust valve guides and stems, thoroughly removed. Replacement
of exhaust valve springs should be made if shortened as much as -15" or
more from the standard length.
Ignition Timing-After servicing points, check for correct amount of
spark advance, also operation of automatic advance where fitted. Reset
timing to specifications if necessary. Approximate settings are breaker
points just commencing to separate, pistons at T.D.C. on retard. In
advanced position average se+-ting:s Vte"-r7Az" advance 250 c.c. singles
and 350 c.c. twins, a1Az"-1Aa" advance 500 c.c. and 650 c.c. twins, 350 c.c.
singles, 500 c.c. O.H.V. singles 7Aa"-5.h", Indian "V" Twins 1b"--h", Harley
Twins set to flylvheel timing mark.
AVERAGE MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS A21
Carburetor-Clean and adjust. Replace flange gasket.

Telescopic Forks-Drain oil and refill according to manufacturer's
recommendations. Generalty S.A.E. No. 10 oil is used below freezing
and S.A.E. No. 20 or No. 30 oil for summer use.
Fork Spintlles-On English models and Indian Scouts prior to
telescopic forks, adjust spindles to eliminate excessive end play, Make sure
that when lock nuts are tightened fork action is free.
Steering Head-Adjust if any perceptible play. Slacken lock nut and
pinch bolt, tighten down bottom adjusting nut fully then slacken off about
one-tenth turn and tighten pinch bolt and lock nut,
Wheel Bearings-Adjust if play at wheel rim exceeds \a"-952".
Wheel Aligrrment-This should be checked with string or a straight
edge. Both wheels should make contact. Check 4tt-5't frorn ground, as high
as possible but clearing bottom of frame. Note that where there is a
difference in the section of front and rear tires, allowance should be made.
Rear Chain-Replace when total stretch exceeds s/+".
L5-20,000 Mile Intervals
Pistons a,nd Cylinders-Whether rebore and oversize pistons will be

necessary will depend largely on condjtions of use. This reeonditioning is
advisable in the following instances:
Maximum cylinder wear in excess of .008"; piston skirt clearance .003"
in excessof standard, or if piston ringlands worn to give .007" or more
ring side clearance.
Carburetor-On Amal, replacement of needle jet, throttle, throttle
needle and cli.p is likely necessary.
Magneto and Gener.ator Drive Chain-Check for wear, tight and loose
spots. Replace if necessary.
1lIa,gneto-Overhaul, clean, adjust bearings, replace oil seal if necessary,
regrease bearings, replace points anil pick up brush if required.
Generator-Overhaul, clean commutator (turn if necessary), check
bearings. Note--on 1949 and earlier Lucas, replacement,of com. end bush
is likely necessary. Replace brushes if %0" shorter than standard.
25-30,(n0 Mile Intervals

Con-Rod Big End Bearings-On Singles and V Twin models replace-
ment of rollers or assembly as necessary is recommended when straight
up and down play exceeds .004"-.005", On vertical twin motors arrd others
with plain t1'pe con-rod big-end bearings and high pressure oiling systems,
substantial loss of oil pressure usually indieates need, for con'rod big
end bearing: replacements. Reconditioning is recommended when big end
clearance exceeds .003".
FIJ&vheeI Shaft or Crankshaft ll[a,in Bea,rings-When reconditioning,
\ repiacements should be made when perceptible mainshaft bearing clearance
is evident. Reconditioning is essential when mainshaft clearance is in
excess of .004"-.005".
1,22 MOTORCYCLEI MAINTENANCE
Section 4
LUBRICATION
Correct lubrication is most essential for air cooled motorcycle motors
due to the extremes of operating temperature, the high r.p.m., and power
output characteristics. Although motor lubrication is, of course, the most
important, other points requiring' lubrication should not be neglected.
Proper lubrication will ensure better all-round performance and reliability,
as well as substantially redueing parts replacement requirements.
The average periodic lubrication requirements have been detailed in
the Maintenance Schedule in the preceding section. tr'or specific lubrication
details not found in this section, refer to the Lubrication section of the
Servicing Chapter for the make of motorcycle concerned. This can be
readily located by reference to the Summary of Contents.
Lubrication Systems
The various types of motor lubrication systems are listed below, follo1ved
by a detailed description of each type.
(a) The DRY SUMP SYSTEM with Separate Oil Tank.
(b) The SEMI-DRY SUMP SYSTEM.
(c) The CAR TYPE PRESSURE tr'EED with Gravity Oil Return to
Supply in Bottom of Crankcase.
(d) The MECHANICAL FEED CONSTANT LO,SS SYSTEM.
(s) The "PETROIL" SYSTEM, Oil Mixed with cas (Petrol) (T$o-
stroke cycle motors).
(f) The AUTOMATIC CRANKCASE PRESSUREI EEED SYSTEI\I.
(Two-stroke cycle motors.)
(a) The Dry Sump System With Sbparate Oil Tank

This lubrication system is the most common on four-stroke type
motorcycle motors. It was pioneered on English motorcycles and came
into wide use on most British models about 1929-1930. The American makes
followed a number of years later, Indian adopting this system in 1934. and
Harley-Davidson in 1936 on the 61" O.H.V. model and on the S,V. models
in 1937.
With this system the oil supply is usually contained irr a separate
oil tank or in an oil compartment built into the gas tank. Some Ro_val-
Enfield models are an exception, the oil compartment being formed in the
crankcase, separated from the flywheel ehamber.
Two oil pumps are usually employed, either of the Gear, Vane, or
plunger type. The feed pump draws oil from the tank and forces it into
the engine, usually via a drilled crankshaft to the con-rod big-end. The
return pump, which is of larger capacity, draws the oil that accumulates
in the bottom of the crankcase and pumps it back to the oil tank.
The advantage of this system is in the large circulation of cool oil
that is provided to the motor and the almost negligible oil consumption
at moderate speeds when the motor is in first-class condition,
LUBRICATION 723
Ma,intenance of fthe Dry Sump System-Regular draining of the oil,

fltishing out tank, cleaning of any filters, and use of the correct grade oil
dependent on the average operating temperature, are essential points in
obtaining the full benefits of this system.
llnder normal conditions of use oil change need only be effected at
1000 mile intervals and may be extended to 1500 miles. However, under
adverse conditions of extremely dusty operation or when temperature
averag'es below freezing, it is essential that oil chang'e and flush out be
done at least at 500 mile intervals.
Duri4g cold weather operation, considerable dilution of oil occurs
as a result of condensation. Besides reducing its lubricating properties,
the water accumulation causes a very definite hazard of ice form.ation
in the bottom of, the oil tank, or in an oil passag:e-way. This can result
in complete stoppage of oil supply, damag:e to oil pump and drive, and
also endanger piston and con-rod big-end. The greatest danger from this
trouble exists where the machine is used for comparatively short runs,
in below freezing' temperatures. Under such conditions a frequent check
on the oil circulation should be made, if there is not a pressure indicator.
Running with a reduced quantity of oil, anfl draining at intervals as
frequent as 200 miles is advisable under some conditions where water
accumulation in oil is pronounced.
Under dusty conditions o,f use, frequency of oil change is largely
dependent on whether or not an efficient carburetor air cleaner is fitted.
Operating without an air cleaner under dusty conditions results in rapid
accumulation of abrasive particles in the oil, necessitating more frequent
tank draining and flushing,
Oil Draining-It is most important that this be done immediately
after use when the oil is hot and dirt in suspension. It should be noted
that it takes between 5 and 10 miles of normal running'for the oil supply
to become thoroughly warmed. If oil is drained regrrlarly when hot, tank
flushing is not essential, particularly if Heary Duty "detergent" type oil
is in use.
There are various methods of flushing out oil tanks. Where steam
or very hot water under pressure is available, these are quite effective.
For the average owner a suitable method is, after draining o11, to replace
the tank drain plug, pour a eup of Varsol or gasoline into tank, rock
maehine vigorously for a minute or so, and then drarn completely out.
Crankcase Draining-On dry sump systems with separate oil tank it
is not necessary to drain the crankcase on normal oil changes as the
amount of oil in the crankcase is very slight. If it is desired to clear out
this old oil completely, a suitable method after flushing out and refilling
t oil tank, is to disconnect the return oil line at tank or motor ,start up
motor and run for about a/z minute. This will clear out remainder of old
oil in motor and line can be reconnected, and tank level restored.
Oil Level in Tank-Correct oil level for most tanks is about 7a/2"
down below the filler cap opening. It is important not to overfill oil tank
particularly when cold, because the oil volume will increase after being
in circulation and warmed up. Do not top up oil level fully on machines
that have been standing for some time until they have been operated for
a few'minutes and any excess oil in erankcase has been returned to tank.
If these precautions are not observed, excess oil may be forced out the
oil tank breather pipe where fitted, or out the filler cap opening.
L24 MOTORCYCLE MAINTE]NANCE
"Over-Oiling"-1\f6sf, dry sump systems utilize a much larger return

pump than feed pump to ensure return of oil from crankcase to tank as
fast as it accumulates. OnIy a very few models have an adjustment to the
oil supply with this system. Gradual development of excessive oil con-
sumption, especially pronounced at hlgher speeds is usually an indication
of need for replacement of piston rings and possibiy other motor
reconditioning.
If very pronounced over-oiling suddenly develops, it is most likely
due to a deficiency in the return system. In this event observe for return
flow into tank, drain crankcase and note whether more than usual amount
of oil drains from flywheel chamber; if so, investigate return pump, filters,
oil lines, etc.
Cold Weather Operation-When it is necessary to operate motorcycle
in temperatures below freezing, it is very advisable where possible, to store
the machine in a place where the temperature does not drop below the
freezing point. This, combined with frequent oil charlging, wiII do much
to avoid winter lubrication trouble, and minimize possibility of damage due
to ice formation in bottom of oil tank or oil passageway.
(b) he Semi-Dry Sump Systum

This syslem probably provides the best lubrication for average use.
It is presently featured in a1l Panther machines, and was used on B.S.A.
models 1932-1935. There is only a feed pump which draws oil from the
supply kept in the crankcase reservoir, which is a compartment separate
from the flywheel chamber, extending in front and below the flyrvheels.
OiI is returned to the reservoir by the flywheels. The oil after circulat-
ing, drains into the flywheel chamber and is picked up by the fiyrvheels
and thrown over the top edge of the flywheel chamber through an opening
provided into the oil compartment.
Oil consumption, although greater than with the separate oiI tank
system, is comparatively Iight when the pistons, rings and cylinder are
in first-elass eondition. When considerable wear has developed, horrever,
oil consumption will increase substantially, as a result of the very thorough
piston and eylinder lubrication that is provided by the flyr,vheel oil thro"r.
Panther and B.S.A. models using this system have oi1 suppl)' adjust-
ments. Refer to the Lubrication section of the Servicing Chapiers on
these makes for details.
Oll Changing-It is recommended that this be done with the motor
hot at 1000-mile intervals in normal service, and at 500-mile intervals in
freezing temperatures, and under dusty conditions.
(c) The Car $ae Fressure Feed System With Grar-it"r-

Return to Crankcase
One oil pump is used with this system, drawing oi1 from supplv in
motor base, and pumping to bearings and on some models to troughs for
splash lubrication. Oil drains to bottom of crankcase by grar'lty.
This system is very satisfactory. Its function is dependent only on
the feed pump and oil supply. Makes and models using this method of
lubrication include-All llenderson and Indian 4-cylinder models, Dougias,
Ariet X'ours 1933-1936 models and the ne'w Sunbeam Twin.
Drain oil and refill every 1000 miles normal operation; every 500
miles in freezing temperatures and dusty conditions.
LUBRICATION 725
(rI) The Mechanical Feed Constant Loss System

This was the earliest type of motorcycle engine lubrication systern
using' a mechanical pump. This method of iubrication was used on :r1l
Harley-Davidson models up to and including 1936 except, fbr the 1936 61"
introduced with Dry Sump Oiling; al] fndian Twin models up to and
including 1933. Most British models used this system up to 1928-1929,
a few makes, notably A.J.S., used it as late as 1931.
The oil supply is kept in a separate tank, usually a gas tank 'com-
partment. Oil is fed frorn the tank to the engine by a very slow turning'
mechanical pump, usually u/orm driven off one of the camshafts; geariqg
the pump down so that it runs about 7/to or 1/zo sngine speed. OiI is.delivered
at a rate of about 20 to 40 drops per minute at a motor speed equal to
about 20 m.p.h.
About % to a/z pint of oil only is maintained in the crankcase when
the supply is correctly adjusted. A hand pump is fitted to the tank on
some models for supplementing oil supply when driving hard and for
refilling crankcase to running Ievel after draining. The crankcase is all
that requires to be drained on this type as used oil never returns to the
tank. Drain crankcase every 500 miles and refill with t/" lo t/2 pint or
3 to 4 shots from tank hand pump where fitted.
It is not possible and also very inadvisable to try to get reaily
economical running with the constant loss system. F or a Harley or Indian
Twin, the pump should be set to g:ive an oil consumption of 600 to 1000
.
miles per gallon. A more economical setting should not be attempted

unless machine is driven with extreme care.
To Test for Oil P,umping-There being no indicator on most models
with this system, the rider may often wonder if the motor is getting oil.
The consumption rate, of course, is a good check, but if there is reason
to believe oiling may have stopped suddenly, there are three quick ways
of checking:-
(1) Note the exhaust, a trace of blue smoke should be evidenced
when the motor is suddenly accelerated.
(2) Drain crankcase and note whether the usual amount of oil drains
out.
(3) Remove oll feed line from pump, stop up pipe, start motor and
feed oil pump with oil can and note whether or not oil is sucked
arMay.
A method recommended by some factories for determining correet
oil adjustment on this type is to drain crankcase, put in a determined
amount, say t/s pint or 3 hand pumpfuls. Run the machine 10 miles or
so of repre"sentative driving, drain ciankcase and note whether more oil
or less comes out than was put in after last draining. If much more, oil
supply should be cut down; if much less, supply should be increased. Keep
track of your mileage and oil consumption fiSures occasionally and you
will easily be able to judge suitability of oil adjustment.
(e) The "Petroil" System, OiI Mixetl With Gas (Fetrol)
(f) Tho Automatic Crankcase Plessure Feed System
The above two types of, lubrication systems common to two-stroke
cycle motors are dealt with fulty under "Villiers Two-Stroke Engines"
(Chapter 17, section 1).
Grades of Oil
The wide extremes of operating temperatures encountered in air-
cooled motorcycle motors necessitate the use of heavier grades of oil,
especially for summer use, than used in water-cooled car motors which
function within a much more limited and lower temperature range.
Generally speaking, 2 or 3 grades heavier oil is required for summer
motorcycle use, than used in most automobiles.
For cold weather operation it is essential that the grade of oil be
sufficiently light to be quite fluid, so that oil cireulation is not delayed
when starting from cold. This is the time when a, large percentage of all
wear occurs.
Most motorcyclists make the mistake of using too heavy an oil in
cold weather. The disadvantages to the use of light oil are siightly
increased oil consumption when motor reaches normal operating temper-
ature, and reduced lubrication value at hi,gh temperatures. The benefit
of immediate lubrication from cold often offsets these points especially
if the machine is being used for comparatively short runs.
The chart shown lists the S.A.E. g:rades recommended for all motor-
cycle motors for varying temperatures. One grade lighter oil than sho*'n
may be used to advantage when running-in new motors with "plain" t1'pe
con-rod bearings or after reconditioning.
An advantage in the use of light oil is that there is less carbon
residue from burned Iight oil than from burned heavy oil. A certain
amount of oil is, of course, burned in the cylinder and exhaust port. The
carbon deposit from this is hoticeably less with lighter oil.
Generally, for very short trips, when motor seldom gets really hot,
best results and long:est motor life will be obtained by favoring use of
lighter oil, providing oil consumption is moderate and satisfactorl' oi)
pressure on plain bearing type motors is maintained.
On Two-Stroke motorcycle motors, where oil is mixed rvith the
g:asoline, it is not necessary to use lighter grades for cold weather oper-
ation, due to its dilution by the gasoline. S.A.E. No. 40 or No. 50 gtades
are generally most suitable for Two-Stroke lubrication. Some oil manu-
facturers provide "outboard motor oil" which is especially compounded
for use in Two-Stroke cycle motors. Where available, it is recon-rmended
that this be used in preference to regular motor oil.
Recommended Motor Oil Grades

Average Temperature Grade of Oil
60 degrees or over.......... . S.A.E. 50 or 60
40 to 60 degrees.......... ....... S.A.E.40
2Oto 40 degrees........ S.A.E. 30
...
0 to 20 degrees.......... ..... S.A.E. 20
Below Zero.. S.A.E. 10
"Brands" of Oil
Motorcycle motors do not require a special oil. Any of the first grade
nationally known oils supplied in sealed containers or in bulk from a
reliable source, are perfectly satisfactory for motorcycle use if required
grade is used, dependent on average operating: temperature as shown on
chart above.
tr
I
LUBRICATION a27
Motor, bearing and piston failures are often blamed on the brand or
lack of brand of the oil that has been used. Very seldom are such failures
actually due to the quality of the oil; by careful analysis one or more
mechanical factors will invariably be found to aceount for the failure.
Piston failures, most common to motorcycle motors, are usually a conse-
quence of one or more of the following conditions:-
(1) Pre-ignition, hard driving with too type of spark plug.
(2) Too weak a carburetor mixture.
(3) Ignition timing too far advanced or too late.
(4) "Blow-by" past piston due to worn piston rings, ring lands and
cYlinder.
(5) Shortage in oil supply.
(6) Operating with dirty and diluted oil.
"Ileavy Duty" Oil
The latest development in motor oils is the "Heavy Duty" detergent
type oil. A feature of this oil is that it cleans as it lubricates. It reduces
gum and combustion residue deposits on valves and pistons. When "Heavy
Duty"' oil is used exclusively, a much cleaner internal motor condition
, results.
It should be noted, that if "Ileavy Duty" oil is to be used in a motor
that has been in service for more than a few thousand miles, it is
important to make the first oil change within 200 miles with the oil tank
warm, and to flush out so that dirt and sludge picked up by the detergent
quality of the "Heavy Duty" oil will be eliminated. Subsequent oil changes
can be done at regular intervals. Corrosive action resulting from conden-
sation and combustion residue accumulating in oil, is notably reduced with
heavy duty oil.
Oil Filters and P,urifiers
The Gauze screen type filters used in the return and feed supply of
most Dry Sump Systems serve chiefly to prevent a clogging of oil
passageways. They are not effective in preventing small abrasive particles
and impurities from circulating with the oiI. Additional oil filtering
equipment is not necessary for average conditions of use, particularly
where a carburetor air cleaner is fitted. Ilnder extremely dusty service
conditions, however, increased motor life and reduction in frequency of
oil chang'es, can be accomplished by installing a car-type oil filter unit.
The most suitable point in the circuit to connect is in the return oil pipe
from the return pump to the tank. Servicing recommendations vary on
these filters depending on the type and the conditions of service, but filter
replacement at 10,000-mile intervals is generally recommended, It should
be noted that on car application, only a portion of the oil supply is
passed through the filter, and a relatively small hole only is provided on
\ the inlet side to avoid excessive passa8'e of oil through filter, which would
reduce the motor oil pressure on the automotive type installation.
On motorcycle application when the:filter is placed in the return line,
it is necessary to drill out the inlet opening to a minimum size of %0,, so as
to avoid overloading return pump.
E'or cold weather operation below freezing temperature, filter can be
removed, or on the removable element type, just the element removed. This
will avoid possibility of ice formation in filter obstructing oil flow.
128 MOTORCYCLEI MAINTENANCE
The chief advantage to the separate oil filter instaltration will be found
where operating under dusty conditions at above freezing temperatures,
and particularly on machines where it is not possible to fit a really
effective carburetor air cleaner.
Special Oil Preparations

There is quite a variety of oil preparations on the market for
adding to regular oil or gas, advertised as being beneficial in improving
Iubrication and reducing "valve sticking." Certain motors, particularly
those provided, with a fairly liberal oil supply to the valves, do suffer
from exhaust valve sticking, resulting from a deposit building up on the
valve stems, a formation of burned on oil and combustion residue. On
machines suffering from this type of trouble the use of one of these
special preparations made to relieve this condition, is advisable, but
otherwise,it is not considered necessary. Quickest relief from valve sticking
is generally obtained by feeding one of these preparations through the
carburetor air intake w'ith an oil can.
Graphite oil preparations are considered advantageous when "running
in" a new or reconditioned motor. Whether their continued use is n'orth
the expense after the motor is thoroughly run in and has developed
adequate bearing clearance, is a matter of divided opinion.
Gearbox Lubrication
Motor oil or light grease (semi-liquid) are the usual motorcl'cle
gearbox lubricants. The chart below shows the recommendations covering
the more popular makes.
B.S.A.
ROYAL-ENT'IELD
NORTON
VE}LOCETTE! All Motor Oil
HARLEY-DAVIDSON Grade aecording to temp€rature
INDIAN Junior Scout See Chart page 126
INDIAN.Arrow Single and
O.H.V. Twins
TRIUMPII
VINCENT TWins
VILLIERS units Motor OiI as above or Gear Oil
S.A.E. 140 (No. 90 belorv freer-ng
temperatures).
Light Grease (semi-liquidr
Add r/z pint S.A.E. No. 10 ojl to
ARIEL, A.J.S. MATCIILESS B:rease for winter use.-Belorv
freezing temperatures. On 1948
PANTHER, and all makes fitted and later modeis rrith drive gear
BURMAN Gearboxes bearing oil seal, motor oil or mix-
ture half and half motor oil ald
grease. 1952 models motor oil.
TNDTAN 37",45" and74" Motor Oil
Note: On these Indian models the S.A.E. No. 30 above 60o
primary driye oil lubricates the S..d.E. No. 20 32-60'
gearbox. S.A.E. No. 10 belorr freezinq
AN4 inder The Motor Oil lubricates the
Goarbox Oil Lea.ka,ge-It is not uncommon for a certain amount of

oil to leak out of the drive side gearbox bearing after filling. particularly
LUBRICATION 729
l when parked on the left side prop stand. No appreciable 1eakage, however,
should occur after supply lowers to the usual operating level. Where
noticeable gearbox oil teai<age occurs, oil supply shlould bJ cheeked. more
frequently, than the normal 1000-mile interval.
Light grease (semi-liquid) can be used in place of oil if oil leakage
is very excessive. A mixture of half and half medium viscosity chassis
grease and S.A.E. No. 30 motor oil, makes a very satisfactory lubricant.
This w,ill be retained much better than oil only. F or winter use, such
rubricant should be reduced by the addition of S.A.E. No. 10 oil.
Changing Gearbox Lubricants

Normally, a seasonal change of gearbox lubricant is sufficient.
Where there is insufficient temperature change to require seasonal change
of grade, gearbox oil should be drained and refilled at b000-mile intervals.
On types using grease lubrication a complete change of lubricant is
difficult to accomplish without dismantling, and the general policy is
just to eontinue to add lubricant to maintain supply and clean out and
refill at intervals of 20,000-30,000 miles when overhauling is undertaken.
Front Chain antl Primary Ilrive Lubrication

A light grade of motor oil is the most suitabte lubricant for these
drives. Level should be topped up every 500-1000 miles and drained and
refilled every 2000 miles. S.A.E. No. 10 is generally suitable for year-
round use except below freezing temperatures when S.A.E. No. 5 oil is
most suitable. This applies to all tlpes where the clutch operates in the
primary drive oil. On "dry type" clutches a heavier oil can be used.
without any disadvantage,
On fndian model 741-30",37",45', and 74,, models-the primary drive
oil lubricates the clutch and entire g:earbox as well. S.A.E. No. 20 or B0
is most suitable for summer use; below freezing,,S.A.E. No. 10 should be
used to minimize clutch drag.
On other types of front chains that are not completely enclosed in
an oil bath, there is usually provision for a ,,breather,, oil su$p1y from
the crankcase. If the chain tends to run dry, or if no oil supply
is provided, it should be lubricated generously with an oil can every fiw
hundred miles, or a special chain lubricant applied,. This also applies
to the Indian Sport Scout generator drive chain. Before refitting such
chains after dismantling, they should be given the same treatment as
recommended for rear chains: washing. in kerosene, soaking in warmed
oil or grease.
Rear Drive Chain Lubrication

Lubrication requirements of the rear chain vary considerably according
to service conditions. On machines operated on paved roads, or relatively
dust-free conditions, with needle valve oil feed, this should be adjusted to
keep chain slightly oily. Where no automatic lubrication is provided,
chain can be oiled periodically with an oil can, or special chain lubricant
applied. Where operating: off paved roads under dusty conditions, it is
recommended that.chain be removed at 1000-2000 mile intervals, washed
thoroughly in kerosene or varsol, allowed to drain, soaked in heated heavy
oil or grease; surplus lubricant should be wiped off before refitting and
adjusting.
It is considered inadvisable to apply any external lubrication to the

chain in between this servicing when operating off paved roads and under
dusty conditions. Most rear chains, being comparatively exposed, wiII pick
up considerable grit, forming an abrasive mixture with the oil on the
outside of the chain. This wiII accelerate sprocket wear, but will not
benefit the chain due to failure of oil to penetrate to the bearing roller
pins where it is most needed,
Magneto and Generator Chain Lubrication

Where not provided with oil lubrication from motor or primarv drir-e,
these chain cases should be filled about half full of grease at 5000-mile
intervals.
*fiu
Wheel Hub Lubrication i
Grease nipples are provided for grease gun lubrication on some makes.
A medium or heavy grade of ordinary grease or a fibrous wheel bearing
grease should be used.
Over-lubrication of wheel hubs and brake camshaft bearings is a com-
mon fault that often results in grease working onto brake linings, impairing
braking efficiency. Three to four shots from the average size grease grrn
only should be apptied to wheel hub nipples and one or two shots on brake
camshaft and front or rear wheel drive speedometer gearbox at 1000-rnite
greasing intervals.
Every 20,000 to 30,000 miles, or more often if machine is operate6 in
service \Mhere wheel hubs are at times submerged in water, hubs should
be dismantled,, aII old grease removed, bearings washed out and greased,
hubs repacked about three-quarters full of grease. At such time bearings
should be carefully examined to ascertain if replacements are necessary.
Note the correct method of adjusting tapered roller and cup and
cone type ball bearings: Tighten adjusting cone with moderate pressui.e,
then back off a fuII one-quarter turn and tighten locknut. When axle
is removed, before refitting, make sure the "stationary" cone is tightened
right up against the axle shoulder. This applies to most tapered roller
and adjustable ball cone types.
Control Cable Lubrication

OiI can lubrication should be provided to the exposed ends of control
cables, nipples at handlebar levers and handlebar lever pivols, at about
1000-mile intervals or whenever motor oil is being changed. Life of the
twist grip throttle cable will be extended if this is also provided lubrication.
On English type twist grips the inner cable can be exposed by puiling on
the outer casing, from the twist grip socket, and a few squirts lvith oil
can applied through the opening.
Grease Gun Lubrication

There are now few remaining'points for grease gun lubrication on
motorcycles in current production. On present models grease nipptes u-i1l
be found on brake pedal shafts, brake cam shafts, and in a few instances
on steering head bearings and wheel hubs. On earlier model machines the
g:rease nipples on thefront fork spindles should not be overlooked.
Greasing at 1.000-mile intervals is generally adequate, and care should
be taken not to over-Iubricate brake camshaft bearings as excessive g.rease
I
I
SPARK PLUGS 131
may.fin_d i!1 way under the brake linings. The same applies to wheels
I
provided with grease nipples. On some modets that do irot t *rr" g"".""
fittings on the brake camshafts, there is provision for oil lubricatioil, and
this shouid not be overrooked. rf there is no oil hole, it is good poricy to
occasionally appty penetrating oil to the outer end of the brike
to avoid rusting and sticking;f the brake camshaft. cimshaft,
I Section 5
I
I
t SPAEK PLUGS
i
Most spark plug trouble can be eliminated, and maximum spark plug
efficiency maintained by following the points detailed below:_
1, Use plugs of the most suitable ..heat range,, in relation to type of
motor and service,
2. Clean_ plugs arrd set gaps at 1000-mile intervals, or more often, if
need for cleaning is evident by ,,cutting-out', on .,load.,,
3. Set plug point gaps at .015-.020,,, for magneto ignition, and for coil
ignition .025,,.
4. tr-it new copper.gaskets, and tighten plugs adequately into cylinder
head when refitting.
5. Maintain correct carburetor mixture adjustments.
. .-There is no spark prug yet made that wil function perfectty satisfac-
torily, under all conditions of serwice. The wide ,aog" if operlting tem-
peratures of motorcycre motors create more of a spaik ptug prordm
I
trran
I is present in most other motors that operate in a niucf, -more limited
temperature range.
To give satisfactory results, a spark prug must have heat conductive
qualities that will allow the centre electrodJinsulator to run sufficienuy
hot to burn off carbon and oil deposits, but not hot enoug:h to eause ,,pre-
ignition."
selecting the Most suitable t5rye of spark Flug-choosing the right
:park plu.q is under
usualry a matter of compromise. wh6re a machlne ls usea
genera[y t]e same type of day to service, it is not
difficutt to serect a suitable prug, and tiris shourd be day
lorôperation
onl irr"f
I f::lll."i:1_t|l.1l ",i* ""rti
pig:rs*fion will not occur, and yet runs sufficientry not
ro avoro carboning up and frequent need for cleaning.
I
fn the more popula{. o-ri_gmal equipment spark plug brands of the 14
mm. size, types most suitable for all round. averag.e seivice conditions are
rrarley-Davidson No. B, Lodge No. H14 or rrN, and x.r..c. rvo. ri6.-wrru"u
service conditions are such that these plugs give trouble witr,
and- require frequent creaning, the neit hotier runninc typ;s
sooii"g
used, such as Hartey-Davidson No. 2, Lodge No. C14 ;, 6i{;il-K.L.G.be
;h;urd "p,
No. tr'50. At the other extreme, where considerable frarO ariving is-inOufgeA
in, and ptugs show *iry
types such as Harlev-Davidson9I burning.anct pre_ignitionls suffiJ"il
No. 4, loage HlrN or K.L.G. rgo'snouta "oofu*
be used.
Reference shourd be made to the Motorcycre spark prug chart
page 132, which detaits types of spark plugs of thd popuUl'frroA. on
varying service conditions. to"
].32 MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCEI
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=36
SPARK PLUGS 133
..Short_anrl Long,.Reach',
plugs-The standard motorcycle plug .,reach,,
or thread rength i, r/r". rt shourd be noted that American autoilot-ive plugs
are slightly Shorter, cOming in %,, and r/ta,, ,,teach.,, IJse Of the %,, reach
plug shoutd be avoided, if possible, as the unused plug threads
will Jill up with carbon, and some difficurty may be-carsed when in the head
the correct
reach plug is installed at a 1ater date,
. Lgqq models;
imported
reach plugs with nAa,, thread Iength are used in a number of
this generally being trre tlpe fitted to al,minum alloy
heads, although there are one- oi two e-xeeptions that just use the vz,;
By measuring the depth of thread in ihe plug fr-ole, any aouftlength, as to
whether a standard or long reach plug is reqiire-d, can be dispefieA.
.
Effect .of Using plugs That Operate fs6 .,e6s1,,_d rapid carbon
soot formation or oiling up of the centre electrode insulator williake prace.
This will be first eviclenced in the performance by hesitation urro ;l"rrltirrg-
out" of the motor, when the throttle is opened tn .,load.,, This is- caused
by.intern-at.shorting. creaning the prug wiu restore normar performance,
until sufficient carbon deposit accumurates again on the cenlre electrode
insulator, to form a,,track', to ground, for the spark current,
- . Effeet of using Plugs That operate f6s ..rJ6,pr-\ryhen the motor is
driven hard, the spark prug centre electrode may re.ach a ternperature
l that will cause the compressed gas to pre-ignite "r"rore-ttre t"r.""
place. Extreme cases of pre-ignitlon cari cause a sudden "priL
slowiiig down of
a machine, glving the ap_p,earance.of a piston seizure, even tnoug-tr a piston
.,too liot,, running
;-eizurg may not occur. Using a iype ot ptr_r-g-i; some-
thils that wilr usuaily only bi a disadvantage where itie *acrrin"e is driven
qurte hard for distances in excess of four or five miles,
and high operating
temperatures are reached.
VYhen Is Spa,rk Plug Cleaning Necessary?_plqg cleaning interval
i'' requir-ements are dependent on thJ type of service, thl suitabilltv
plug for the service involved, and the- oir consumpiio" ot trr" of the
the-avê^rage motorcycre, sp_ark plug cleaning ana gap ao;ustin ""&ne.
on
is r?neficiar
at 1000-mile intervais. More ?requent clJaning -miy ru ,"&""r"v wrrere
plug is too ,,eool,,, and when engine conditiois ;;;;;;i;'oit con-
sumption. "r;."
rn a motor in first-crass condition, operated at consistent speeds, and
not involving a great dear of stops and starts, often as rrig.h'; g-aooo
miles"can be covered without removing a plug, but such mit"eaee without
cleaniqg is possibre if the plug "he-at rangE;, i. ia""irv ."i-i#io'.""rri."
conditions. _onry
When plugs are in need of eleanin!, .,cutting_5ut,, o" fl*i *n"r,
tho. motor is puiring hard with throtile faiily werl Jpened, -trr"
noticeable symptom. Clean and adjust gap when this occurs. i. *o.t
Plug cleaning Methods-The popurar sand brast creaning method is the
most simpre and efficient for thoroughry creaning aII porce6in-1ype prugs,
including Lodge Sintox (pink insulators) and KL.c. bo",r.rJii"-irr-"irr.to"".
This applies most. especially to one-piece non_detachable pfu#, ;ut is
preferable even on the two-piece detaehabte prugs, as tt
disrnantling, in not obtaining a gas-tight joint w]re'reassemffi"i.l-- r*o*
e"" iJoa?g.""
"Mica" rnsurator spark plugs-This type is no Ionger used as stahdard

equipment, but is stilr in use on some racing types. fhese sirouro not
ae
cleaned on a sand blast creaner, as this is rittrrer o", lire mica
insulator. where of the two-piece type, eleaning is best
"ur"."
erreciei- tv ais-
mantling and the centre insulator can be wiped with a gr._"ort uO ,rg,
or cleaned with very fine emery cloth, or steel woor. rh6 prus booy, of
].34 MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCE
course, can be sand blasted, or scraped. When re-assembling the piug, be

sure not to omit the small eopper gasket washer that fits inside the plug
body on the insulator joint, and re-tighten gland nut securely.
Plug Gap SettingGap shoutd be set by bending the ground electrode
only.
Magneto ignition plug 9ap.........................015"-.020"
Coil ignition plug gap........ . .................025"
Two stroke motors plug 9ap....... ..............025"
Platinum Point Type Spark Plugs-Lodge HNP and IILNP plugs
have platinum points, and although these can be cleaned satisfactorily on
the sand blast cleaner, the platinum points must be protected during this
operation, as the platinum wilt be damaged by the sand blast. The
manufacturers can supply small rubber caps for fitting over points for
protection durirlg this operation. If these are not available, it is recom-
mended that point protectors be improvised, or the piugs cleaned in alcohol.
Spark Plug I-ife-This is dependent on the severity of use, but on the
average motorcycle engine, new' ptugs every 5000 miles are a good
investment. Plugs should be replaced as soon as they continue to "cut-out"
on load after they have been cleaned and gapped.
Ilorv to Spot a "Duttr" Flug-One plug that is cutting ouL on a trvin or
four can usually be spotted by running the machine, say a mile or trvo,
stopping and feeling all the p1ugs. The defective plug rviI1 be much cooler
than those operating normally. Mark this plug, and try it on another
cylinder, and if it, still behaves in the same manner, it is a good indicaiion
that the trouble is in the ptug. If cleaning and gapping does not rectif]',
it sirould be scrapped. Occasionally, a plug will appear to be all right,
and if it sparks O.K. in a tester at 740 pounds pressure, it generallf is.
but there are exceptions, and the final test is t[e performance on ]oad in
the engine.
Spark Plug Tighteningcorrect tightening is important. The spark
plug mainly relies on cooling by heaL conduction from the plug body
to the cylinder head. Heat t;:ansmission from plug to head \'vi11 be in-
adequate if plug is not properly tightened, and plug overheating and
pre-ignition rnay result. Never tighten plugs with pliers or an adjustable
rvrench, unless a good fitting plug socket wrench is not alailable,
Recomrirended plug tightening torques are shown below. llote that the
average tool kit spark plug wrench, provides about 6" leveraS:e; t"ith
this, the pressure shown below should be doubled; as an example a 14 mm.
plug in a cast iron head should be given about 60 pounds pressure rviih
a 6" wrench, and in aluminum head, pressure should be less. not in excess
of 50 pounds.
PIug ThreadSize Cylinder Hea,tl Material Foot Lbs. Torque
14 mm....,..... Cast Iron ................30 1bs.
14 mm.......... .... Aluminum .... ..25 Ibs.
18 mrr.......... Cast Iron ...35 Ibs.
18 mm.......... .... Aluminum ...............30 lbs.
Spark Plug Foint "Bridging"-Trvo-Stroke $Iotors-This trouble ts
attributed largely to the Ethyl (lead) content in the g:asoline, and the
oil mixture in the gasoline used for lubricating 2-stroke motors. This
trouble can be minimized by using non-Ethyl gasoline, if available. or
gasoline with a low Ethyl content; also, by operating ruith the plug point
gap as wide as possible, consislent with satisfactory starting. If the
magneto is in good condition, the best results can be obtained with
IGNITION SYSTEMS 135
.025-.030 pluggap. Other important factors are to maintain the correct

oil mixture; to avoid excessive oil, and to use a sufficiently cool runnins
spark p1ug. When stoppag:e occurs as a result of point "bridging,', it is
i:ot always necessary to completely clean the plug, but just remove the
bridging which has formed across the points. Cprrying a spare clean
plug is most- advisable, with engines of this type.
tsacing Spark Plug Gaps-F or racing, especially when a very higir
compression ratio is used, a slight. reduction in spark plug point gap is
an advantage in some instances; .012" is about the minimum for such
service.
If the magneto spark is not quite up to standard, better all round
performance and especially easier startingwill be obtained by favouring
a smaller gap.
lfechanica,I Factors Th,at Can Effect Spark Plugs-A worn cylinder
or piston and piston ring condition causing excessive oil consumption
in-ill tend to soot up the spark plug insulator rapidly, and until the neces-
sary rlotor reconditioning is effected, it wiil be necessary to have plugs
cleaned more often, or to install a ho+-ter running type which wiU tikely
relieve the need for plug cleaning somewhat.
Too lich a carburetor mixture can cause a rather similar sooting of
the centre electrode insulator; also use of very low grade fuel will
aggravate this trouble.
?oo weak a carburetor mixture nill cause the plugs to run hor_ter
than usual and iray cause blistering anC llurning of the points, and possi.bly
pre-ignition.
ll'hat the Appearauce of the Sparli FIug fndicates-If the spark plugs
are rer'raioved after a period of a\rerage normal operating service,
exalnination r.vill reveal the s,:itability of +,he plug ancl the carburetor
m:xture. This appearance test is oni5, a true indication in a motor that
is in sound condition, and not using oil excessively.
A light l:rorvnish-grey color of the centre eleetrode and insularor
nose, indicates correct plug type and earburetor mixture. A whitish-grey
or biistered appearance indicstes ptug is running too hot, and a cooler
iype should be fitted. This can also indicate too weak a carburetor mixture.
A black soot or: oily carbon deposit inclicates too cool a plug, and a hoiter
type should be fitted. Sooting can aiso result from excessivel), rich
carburetor mixture.
Section 6
t
IGNTTXOI{ SYSTEII{S
I
Breaker Points-Cn ail types, these should be inspected every 2000
miles, or oftener if need is indicated b), erratic performance oi hard
)
starting.
Foint Cleaning and Setting-Clean points with emery board, fine point
file, fine emery cIoth, or sand paper; then clean contacts ,w,ith cloth
n:oistened rvith gas or alcohol. Be sure no deposit of abrasive or clor_h
is left betrveen points. Faper or thin cardboard drau'n between the points
can be used as an alternative method of final cleaning after servicing.
Set gaps with points fully open.
136 MOTORCYCLE! MAINTENANCE
Harley-Davidson battery ignition......... ....022" gap

Indian battery ignition...............................020
Indian magneto ignition.............................015
Lucas magneto ignition...............................012
Villiers rnagneto ignition.............................015
Lucas battery ignition.................................012
Wico Pacy f lywheel magneto.....................015
Breaker Point Replacements-Repiacement of points is seldom neces-
sary at less than 10,000-mile intervals. Life varies with different types,
also according to condenser efficiency, and care in periodic dressing. If
points require cleaning more frequently than at 1000-2000 mile intervals,
condenser trouble is likely the cause. If loose condenser terminal or
ground is not the cause, the eondenser should be replaced.
Timing Note-fgnition timing should not normally require any
adjustment in between complete overhauls, if correct point setting is
maintained. tr'itting of new, points sometimes alters timing due to slight
variation in the manufacture of rocker arms and fibre blocks. \4rhen
new points have been fitted, set to correct point gap on full lift of cam,
and if timing does not appear normal, check against specifications.
Altering the point gap setting varies the timing. If, for example, point
gap is increased after timing has been set, timing will be advanced.
Likewise, if gap is reduced, timing will be retarded.
Variation of point gap to give slight adjustment to timing can be
done within a range of, say, .003" from specifications, but this is not
recommended except as a very temporary measure on magneto ignition
equipment, pending opportunity for proper re-timing.
Breaker Assembly Lubrication-A small spot of vaseline or grease
may be applied to rocker arm fibre, or breaker cam, and a drop of oil to
roeker arrq pivot, when points are being servieed. This will minimize rvear
at these points. Care must be taken to apply only a very small amount
of lubricant, On Lucas coil ignition breaker assemblies and distributors,
a drop or twr: of light machine oil should be applied on top of the breaker
cam screw (under rotor where fitted), and a few drops of engine oil
should be applied to distributor shaft lubricator where fitted, or to
distributor shaft below breaker cam,
lVater in Breaker iAssembly-It is advisable to cover the breaker
assembly on all types, when machine is being hosed down, and whenever
machine has to stand out in rain. The B.T.H, type mqgneto is particularly
subject to water getting into the breaker assembly through the vent ho1e,
when machine is hosed down, if this precaution is not taken. When this
happens, cover should be removed, and point assembly thoroughly dried
out. Where there are signs of rusting of breaker spring, replacement
should be made. Weakening of spring as result of rusting may cause
ignition irregularity or complete failure due to breakage in service.
High Iension Cables-Arrange high tension cables so that they are
not subject to gasoline saturation from carburetor drip, and not exposed
to direct cytinder head contact, or abrasion. Deteriorated high tension
cables should be replaced with a good quality 7 mm. rubber and cotton
covered cable.
Water Protection to High Tension-Waterproof spark plug shields for
fittiqg to ends of high tension cables are useful on models that have spark
plugs exposed to water splash. A fully waterproof spark plug is much more
effective, however, as water under plug covers can be the cause of hard
starting or ignition difficulty, and they should be thoroughly dried off if
BATTERIES GENERATORS AND LIGHTING SYSTEMS I37
ignition trouble is experienced after water exposure. Rubber nipples should

be fitted over spark plug high tension cables at magneto pick-ups, coil
outlet, and also on distributor ouilets, where distributofis used. Spait plug
porcelains should be wiped clean. Oil and dirt on plug porcelains hold
water, and allow plugs to short circuit much more reaOity. -
Lucas and B.T.If. Magneto Pick-Ups-High tension pick-up should be
withdrawn from magneto and cleaned off when servicing ignition. Carefully
stuff some clean rag into the magneto opening and revolve motor a few
times. This will effectively clean off the collector ring. A poor spark
can often result from accumulation of condensed oil and water vapor, also
carbon brush dust on the collector ring, and the spark pick-up.
Battery Terminals-Clean battery terminals; providing good positive
and g:round contacts are important to coil ignition system effieiency. poor
b_attery terminal contact will cause excessive current to flow from ge-nerator
through breaker points, resulting in rapid point burning
Tightening Terminals, etc.-When points are serviced, all low tension
terminals such as magneto point assembly centre screw, and on coil
rgnition types, condenser and coil terminal icrews, shourd be checked for
tightness.
Seotion ?
BATTERIES, GENERATORS AND LIGHTING SYSTEMS

Battery Maintenance
Neglect is the cause of most battery trouble. fn regular service, bat-
tery acid level should be checked every 1000 miles, and topped up with
distilled water, or other clean water if distilled is not available. Avoid over-
filling. Plates should be covered, but not more than la,, above top of plates.
Exc,eptions to the regular mle are the varley type batteries, to which only
sufficient water should be added as cells witi abiorb, Ieaving no more than
a moist condition at the top of each cell, and the solidified aeid type
batteries, which require a moist condition only.
. Battery Storage-Most deterioration results from idleness during.
storage. Batteries should be charged at intervals of at least every two or
three months, and kept in a cool place.
Battery Termina,ls-A baking soda water solution effectively removes
corrosion. Wire brush or file battery post terminal contact surface, to
ensure good connection whenever refitting battery. Tighten terminals
securely, and smear with grease. Note-Harley-Davidson batteries are
fitted with felts on terminals. A few drops of oil on these felts when
machine is being lubricated will keep terminals completely free from
corrosion,
Ground Terminal-Up to and ineluding 1950, negative battery ground
r.vas universal on motorcycle equipment excepting machines fitiea with
villiers motors with rectifier equipment, and the velocette twin model LE!,
using positive ground, rn 1951 Ariel machines changed over to positive
ground and for
1952 most other E4glish models have changed over to
positive ground. rf battery is fitted with
reversed connectioni, ammeter
will reveal by showing charge instead of discharge, when li,ghts are turned
on. Particular care should be taken on battery installation on Harley,s and
Indian's without ammeter, as battery can easily be installed with terminals
reversed, and the condition not known until battery tr6uble develops.
138 MOTORCYCLEI MAINTENANCE
Battery Vibtation-Vibration causes rapid battery plate deterioration.

On Harley-Davidson type, where battery is contained in closed case, make
sure that lid tightens down on top of battery to hold securely. If not, install
additional rubber mat at top or bottom of battery. The Indian type battery
clamp on the "V" twin models especially, should be checked, to make certain
battery is secure and clamp screw locknut tightened. Batteries are easily
lost out of these models if clamp screw siackens off. On English t]ryes,
avoid over-tightening battery clamp strap or battery lid may be cracked.
Checking Battery Charge-A hydrometer specific gravity reading of
7.275" or higher indicates a fully charged condition, and on types where a
hydrometer reading cannot tre taken, a voltage reading of 6.8-7 volts
indicates approximately a full charge.
Battery Charging Rates-In service, charging rate is controlied by the
voltage regulator on machines with this equipment, or by the adjustable
brush on three brush g:enerators with cut-out only. There is little danger
of overcharg:ing in normal service. Care should be taken, however, when
having battery charg'ed during storage, on automotive charging equip-
ment, to avoid battery damage from excessively high charging rate. Safe
maximum charg:ing rate depends on battery size and period of continuous
charge. The rates and char,ge periods shown are safe, and usually sufficient
to bring to a full state of charge.
l0-15Arnp.Hour Batteries :- 20-29 Amp, Hour Batteries:-
36 hours at 1 Amp. Rate 36 hours at 2 Amp. Rate
18 hours at 2 AmP. Rate 18 hours at 4 Amp. Rate
12 hours at 3 AmP. Rate 12 Hours at 6 Amp. Rate
When fast charging battery, it is advisable to check cell temperature
and note that this does not exceed 110 degrees tr'.; if so reduce eharging rate.
0enerator Maintenance
Normally, Iittle generator maintenance is required in betrreen olel'-
hauls at 10-20,000-mile periods. Notable exceptions are:-
I-ucas 1937-'tr949 Flain Com-end Bearing-Commutator encl of armai'ri'e
on these units has plain bush type bearing, and should be lnl:r'icated er-er;r'
1000 miles by two or three diops of oil through oil hole in genelatol el-.
bakelite cover. Note-If lubrication of this plain bearing has been neglecie'..
considerable wear may have taken plaee, and replacement shouid be r-r-iaje
before damage to armature occurs. Clearance of this beafing can easi11'
be checked with generator in position by remorring end cot'er, pressins :
sma1l screw driver or other pointed ohject into armature -qhaft cen:l'e
ho1e, and lif'ring up and down. Generators used on the.ia'{atchless and A.J.S.
a1'e an exception, having ball bearings at both ends.
Luoas "Magtlynott Genera,tor Mounting-The band securit-tg sci'ett-s anl'l
dri.ve end securing bolt nut should be checked for tightness on routine
inspections. Loosening of these screvJs is not uncomlllon, and often l'esuir-s
in a stripped fibre drive gear.
Indian .A,utolite-Generator Oiliug-Oilers are provided for both ball
bearings on this type of generator, and two or three drops of oi1 shotlld
be provided every 1000 miles.
Cornrnutator Cleaning-Reduced output of generator may be due to a
dirty commutator, although commutator cleaning is seldom required in
betiveen overhauls except on types where oil works through from engine.
BATTERIES, GENERATORS AND LIGHTING SYSTEMS 139
Clean by holding a g'as or alcohol soaked ralg against commutator while

revolving, and dry off. Commutator turning and segment undercutting is
normally only required at complete overhauls.
Brushes-New brush lengths are: Lucas-t1r"; Atttolits-s/rtt; H.D.
(long side)-sla". Replace when short 7/g" or mora
Lucas Voltage Regulators-Reference should be made to Section 7 of

Chapter 16 for servicing information on Lucas Voltage Regulators. It is
inadvisable to tamper with this unit unless the procedure for adjusting is
fully understood, and need for adjustment is indicated by failure to charge,
undercharging or overcharging. It is advisable to first eliminate other more
likely sources of trouble, such as loose battery terminals and poor wire
connections.
Lighting Systerns
Wiring-The rubber covered lighting cables used on English models
are very subject to damage or abrasion, and also deteriorate rapidly from
exposure to gasoline or oil. Care should be taken to clip or tape wires to
frame at suitable poinf-s to reduce possibility of damage. When replacing
cables, better quality rubber and cotton covered cables should be used,
fg,nition antl Light Switches-Switch contact corrosion is occasionally
cause of reduced current flow, giving low voltage and dim lights. Clean
contacts with gasoline, alcohol or emery cloth. Lucas type plunger and
roller s'witches are a frequent source of trouble. Poor contact and stiffness
in turning is caused by a worn plunger assembly, when the plunger, spring
and roller should be replaced. On Triumph models with the instrument
nacelle, the light switch contacts are more exposed to road dust and
when operating off paved roads, swltch may require periodic cleaning.
Lueas diplight switches are inclined to stick due to ingress of water,
and trouble is usually overcome ,with a squirt of penetrating oil.
Wiring Termina,ls-Secure tightening of wiring terminals is important.
On plunger type terminals such as the Miller generator plug-in, spread the
split plunger prongs with a knife, and nip ends with pliers. On Lucas
push-in type generator, regutator and headlight terminals, wire ends
should be spread over cable end caps to ensure a snug fit. Secure tightening
of ammeter terminals should not be overlooked.
Lights and Eulbs-Ifeadlight reflectors, other than the sealed beam
type, should be cleaned 'with silver polish r,vhen dul1. A very soft cloth
or cotton batting should be used when polishing headlight reflector to
avoid scratching. Headlight lens, of course, should be kept clean to
provide best illumination. A good headlight ground connection is important.
Lighting is sometimes improved by soldering a wire to the reflector track
or bulb holder and running direct to the point on frame where battery
terminal is ground.ed. All equipment is 6-vo1t, and usual headlight bulb
size is 21 or 24 candlepower, on 1949 and earlier Lucas equipment, with the
the short type generator. 30-32 candlepower bulbs are generally usecl
on later Lucas equipment with the long type generator and on American
models.
trtreatllight tseam "4.djustment--On American equipment, using either
sealed beam units or prefocused buibs, the onl-rz adjustment necessary
is the height of the headlight beam. This is effected by moving headlight
on mounting bolt. F or normal driving high beam should centre on road
approximately 50 to 75 yards ahead of machine. Focus on Lucas head-
140 MOTORCYCLE MAINTEINANCE
lights is adjusted by clip that secures headlight bulb holder. When

this clip is slackened, bulb holder will move backwards or forwards, to
give desired focus. Height of headlight beam of Lucas and Miller headlights
is readily adjusted on the road by pivoting headlight on mounting bolts.
These mounting bolts should be tightened sufficiently so headlight can
be just turned by hand to give beam adjustment.
Triurnph Nacelle Type Headlight Adjustment-To adjust height of
beam on these models, slaeken the three screws that secure chrome ring
to front of Nacelle, To low€r beam, press in at bottom and pry out at
top. In some rare instances, sufficient range of adjustment may not be
present, and enlargement of the top hole will remedy.
Operating Without Ba,ttery-On Lucas regulator control generators,
it is possible to operate with battery removed, without damage to generator'
!'or long disance travel, it is recommended that the generator plug-in be
removed, and the cable ends taped up. This opens the field coil circuit,
and prevents any current being generated. tr'or short distance travel,
generator can be left connected, and headlight left in the on position'
Section E
GENTJBAL ADJU SITTEIVTS
Tappets
Reference should be made to the "Clearances and Settings" seetion of
the Servicing Chapter for the make of motorcycle concerned, for exact
tappet setting sPecifieations.
Tappets should be inspected every 2000 miles or sooner if need is
indicated by excessive tappet noise or loss of compression, and set to
specified clearances with motor cold. On most types it is satisfactory to
make adjustment with piston on top of compression stroke of the cylinder
on which tappets are being adjusted, and on twin eylinder types il should
be noted that before the tappets on the second cylinder are adjusted, the
motor is revolved the required amount. It should be noted that on some
late model machines with a very,gradual lift cam design (e'g., B.S.A. TVins
and Norton O.H.V. Singles). Correct procedure is as follows:-
Twin Models-Rotate motor until one inlet valve is fully opened, then
adjust tappet clearance on the other inlet valve. Rotate eng'ine until valve
that has been adjustecl is fuily opened, and then adjust elearance on other
inlet valve. Repeat the procedure on the exhaust valves.
Single Motlels-Rotate motor until exhaust valve is just lifting. Adjust
inlet valve clearance in this position. Rotate engine until inlet valve has
just closed. Adjust exhaust valve in this position.
Tappet Clea,rances-Side Valve Motors-Inlet tappet settings average
.004-.006", exhaust tappets .006-.008". Greater clearances are generally
allowed on the newer models with gradual lift cams. (See clearance
speeifications. )
O.H.V. Motors-Tappet settings vary considerably. On standard type
O.H.V. models with cast iron cylinder bloek and steel push rods, usual
setting is .001" inlet (push rod free to spin but with no perceptible shake),
GENERAL ADJUSTMENTS 74L
exhaust tappet .002-.003" (push rod free to spin and just with perceptible
up and down shake). Greater clearances are used on models with gradual
lift cams, e.g. B.S.A. Twins .010". (See clearance specifications.)
O,H.C. Motors-Tappet settings are substantially greater than S.V.
or O.H,V. types. Clearances as high as ,012" inlet al:d. .O24" exhaust are
used. Refer to manufacturer's specifications for particular model.
Harley-Davidson-l949 antl Later O.H.V. Ilytlraulio Tappets-No ad-
justment is necessary on these except after overhauling:.
Tappet Lock Nuts-These should be tightened securely after adjusting
but not over-tightened. The hardened tappet screws can be fractured by
over-tightening. About 15 ft. lbs, torque is comect. This gives a pressure
of about 25 Ibs. on the averag'e seven or eight-inch tappet wrench.
Avoid Setting Tappets Too Close-It is inadvisable to set tappets
closer than specifications require. A closer setting is a common cause of
valve trouble.
Valve Gear Lubrlcation-Although complete valve gear enclosure and
lubrication is standard on aJl current models, there are earlier models
in use without this feature. Some of the earlier types have grease gun
nipples for O.H.V. rocker and valve guide lubrication, These should be
lubricated g:enerously with graphite or high melting point grease, every
500 miles. Where no lubrication is provided for, oil ean should be applied
to valve stems at least every 500 miles. On exposed valve models operating
in very dusty areas, valve springs and stems should be washed off
thoroughly with varsol or kerosene, and valve stems lubricated with
graphite oil or,grease at regular intervals.
Clutch Adjustrnents
On aIl types of clutch controls, a slight a.mount of slack must be
present as a sa.fety margin against control causing clutch slippage, 4a"
minimum control cable slack should be maintained on handlebar control
types. On foot control, t/at' ls a/2t' free foot pedal motion should be present.
If clutch slippage or excessive "drag" is present when control is
eomeetly adjusted, the clutch should be examined. (See Summary of
Contents.)
Set Screw Type Clutch Control Atljustment-This type of adjustment
is used on B.S.A., ?riumph, Villiers, Albion and Royal Enfield. A set screw
adjuster is located on the clutch push-rod operating arm on gearbox end
cover. To adjust, slacken loeknut and move screw either way as required,
and re-tighten locknut. The cable adjuster should only be used to provide
the most suitable operating angle to the lever.
Burrnan Lightweight and Medium lVeight Clutches-Control adjust-
ments on these types as fitted to some 250-350 c.c. Ariel, Panther, Match-
less, etc., are located in the centre of the clutch outer spring pressure plate
on the left side. A limited range of adjustment is also available on the cable
outer casing adjuster. When adjustment on the cable adjuster becomes
taken up, or when it gets to the point where the operati4g arm is past its
most effective range of movement, this adjuster should be screwed fairly
well down and the centre clutch adjuster screwed in to take up the exeessive
slack, then the full range of cable adjustment will be available for mal<ing
slight adjustmehts in between main adjustments on elutch centre screw.
IX. 38
CLUTCII
ADJUST}TENT
Burman Hear]'weight
type 1934-1952 sho( ing
the plunger, adiusrmen!
screw and ball remo|ed
in circle. A similar ad-
justment. is used on
Ro-val-Enfieid 350-i0i c. c,
clutches.
Burman Heavlrveight Type and Late llodel Boyal Enfield Clutch

Control Adjustments-A plunger, incorporating an adjusting scre*' fits
into the gearbox end cover and the outer end fits into the channel section
cluteh operating arm. To adjust, press in clutch operating arm so that
cable can be unhooked from lever; pivot arm down clear of adjustmert
plunger; hold adjustment plunger body and turn in adjusting screw to
take up slack, or out to provide more slack; connect up and check for 1ia"
free cable slack. Repeat procedure until correct setting is obtained.
It will be noted that the flats on plunger body and adjusting' scl'e$'
must be lined up to register with the opening in operatin,g arm.
Burrnan Enclosed Clutch Lever Type Adjustment-*This type used on
some Panther, and most Matchless models, has a completely enciosed
operating arm. Adjustment is less frequently required on these t1'pes,
and if only a slight amount of adjustment is necessary, it is most simply
carried out on the exposed cable adjuster. Screwing this out of the geal'box
will take up slack, and screwing in rn'ill slacken.
xll 39
BURIIAN ENCLOSED CLL-TCH

LE\'ER ADJUST]IENT
-Adjustment is effected bl'removing the
two screws securing: cap and rotating
adjusting nut anti-clockwise to reduce
cable slack or clocklvise to increase
siack. Note that at least.1{6" cable
slack is present after cap scre\vs are
tightened.
GENERAL ADJUSTMENTS 143
When more adjustment than provided on the cable is necessary, screw

the cable adjuster back in ahd take up the whole strack, except for the {0,,
cable slack necessary, on [.he lever mounting pivot adjustment, proceed as
follows: Remove the two screws that secure the small cap on the .gearbox
end cover plate, rotate this eap anti-clockw.ise to take up slack ana elock-
wise to increase cable slack; refit screws, tighten up and check adjustment.
Clutch Spring Pressure Adjustment-Spring pressure.is adjustable on
most types. Spring pressure adjustment is not necessary unless there is
elutch slip with sufficient control slack present. rf clutch slip still occurs
after increasing spring pressure two or three turns, clutch should be
dismantled and the plates examined.
_ On adjustable multi-spring type clutches, springs should finally be
aliusted individually so that outer spring pressure plate throws off evenly
when clutch is disengaged.
"Ilanil Chango" Gearshift Lever Atljustrnents

Where a tank side gearshift ,'gate,' type control is employed it is
necessary to make adjustment to the control rod when g.ear engag.ement in
gearbox does not correspond satisfactorily with 1ever loiation in ,igate.',
Adjustment is usually only necessary after considerable wear has taken
place, after movement of the gearbox in adjusting front chain and some
times after refitting the tank.
The usual method is to select neutral, then slacken locknut on rod
forked end below lever, remove pin and turn either way as necessary to
bring gear lever te register with neutral position in gate. If, for example,
after this is done the lever strikes one end of the gate before engaging iow
or high as the case may be, Iengthen or shorten the control rod adjustment
slightly to bring the lever back from the end it strikes until it permits
engagement of gears before striking end of gate.
If, due to wear i.rl the gear change mechanism, the range of g.ear lever
movement allowed by the g'ate is insufficient to enable both high and lo.w
to bo engaged w"ithout the gear lever first strikiqg the gate at one of these
extremes of movement, there are a number of remedies: (a) t'i1e the ends
9f gate to extend range of movement and file the lever at the point that
travels in the gate to reduce its width and enable it to movi slighfly
farther before striking gate. (b) check joints for wear and excessive
slackness, repair or make replacements. where pivot pins originally have
been VE" diameter; rod fork ends can be drilled out to il..a,, irrd. n6w 6/!a,,
pivot pins fitted to reduce,,backlash,,at these joints.
Brake Ailjustnaents
Motorcycie brake adjustments can be made very quickry and there is
no excuse for riding with brakes out of adjustment. on front controls on
English models there is invariably either a knurled outer control cable
adjuster or a knurled nut on the bottom end of the brake control rod which
permits easy hand adjustment.
Rear trrake controls on British models have a similar adjustment
usuallyin the form of a knurled adjusting knob or wing nut on the end
of brake rod.
The Ariel rear brake should be noted for its shoe pivot adjusting
screw (square headed with screwdriver slot) on the brake plate. sciewing
this in spreads shoes farther apart to compensate for wear and the
rod wing nut adjustment is only intended as an "in-between," and to com-

pensate for movement of rear wheel in chain adjusting.
American brake adjustments are similar to British types but necessi-
tate the use of an open end wrench and pliers, Rear brake rod adjustment
is made by slackening rod fork end locknut, withdrawirlg cotter and pivot
pin, tightening as neeessary and refitting. (Do not overlook cotter pin.)
The front lorake outer eables usually have a cable stop type adjuster.
Note that where more than one hole is provided in the brake operating
arm, connecting cable end pin in the hole nearest the end of lever provides
the most leverage and most powerful braking; the holes closer in provide
Iess leverage.
Always adjust brakes when pedal or lever gets close to the limii of
movement range when fully applied, and when taking up slaek be sure a
slight amount of running clearance is aliowed to avoid drag.
Rear brake adjustment should always be checked after making rear
chain adjustment.
Do the Brakes Eequire Relining?-Brakes should be relined when 4e"
is worn off linings. Averag:e brake linir\g thickness is 7ro" and replacement
is recommehded when worn down to ys".
Grease on Bra,ke Linings-Grease working onr-o brake linings due to
over lubrication of hutrs or brake camshafts reduees braking efficiency
considerably. In some cases efficiency ean be restored by washing brake
shoes thoroughly in gas, scrubbing with a brush and drying out. It is
sometimes diffieult to restore full efficiency to brake linings that have
been badly soaked'with grease, and if really effective brakes are required,
such linings should be replaced.
Roughening glazed lining by a.pplying to sanding disc or rubbing on
sheet of coarse sandpaper improves braking frietion,
Section I
CXAIN ADJUSTIVIENTS
Chain adjustment procedures on makes that are covered by a servieing
chapter following in this book, will be found under the "Gearbox, Clutches
and Chains" section of each chapter, and reference should be made to tJre
Summary of Contents for locating required section, for detailed ir:formation-
Charn Lubrication-Is covered in Section F'our of this chapter. Pro-
visioh of proper chain lubrication will greatly reduce frequency of aeed
for chain adjustment.
Chain slack-Minimum up and down play mea,sured about midway
between the sprockets in the tightest spot, should be provided as follows:-
Rear Chain_B/4,, _1,, slaek.
F'ront Chain-a/s" -a/2" slack.
Generator and Magneto Chains-Y+" slack.
Adjustments should be made whenever slack has developed to double
the correct amount shown above.
CHAIN ADJUSTMENTS L45
Avoid Atljusting Chains Too Tightly-Always revolve chain and check

to make sure that the required amount of up and down slack is present in
the tightest part of chain. If chains are run excessively tight, an extremely
heavy load is placed on the chain, sprockets and beariqgs, that will shorten
Iife.
Front (Prima,ry) Drive Chein Adjustments

On the majority of makes using ehain drive from the motor to the
gearbox, chain tension adjustment is effected by movement of the gearbox,
rearwards to tighten chain and forwards to slacken. The notable exceptions
are Indian '!V" Twin models, B.S.A. T\rins and Vincents, that use a "shoe"
type adjustment against the lower run of chain. Other models that do not
have a front chain adjustment are the Indian "Arrow" Single and "Scout"
Vertical Twin, which use a double row pre-stretched chain, and a number of
125 c.c. models such as the B.S.A., Harley-Davidson, also Villiers 125 c.c.
and 200 c.c. models, which have pre-stretched single row chains.
Where front and rear drive chain adjustment is to be made on models
that have the front chain adjusted by movement of gearbox, it is essential
that the front chain adjustment be made first, because movement of the
gearbox upsets the rear chain adjustment,
Pivoted Typo Gearbox-This is the most corrurron type on English
motorcyeles. The gearbox is usually pivoted at the bottom, and adjustment
is effected by slackening the bottom pivot nut and the top clamp bolt, and
by moving a set screw, draw bolt, or, in some instances, by cams, When
correct adjustmeht of ehain is achieved, bottom pivot bolt and top ciamp
bolt nuts should be most securely tightened.
PANTEEE, "CA}f'' TYPD REAR CEAIN AD'I]STMEI|TT

?o adjust rear chain tenslon on all Panther models, slacken wh€el sptndle nuts anal turn
ule by flats machined on rlght end. Cams are keyed to the axie and operate against pegs
on the inslde of rear frame forks, these ensure maintenance of correct wtreel attgnment. -Ti.e
lllustratiotr slrows jr 12-point s&ket wrench on tlre ffile nut and a 7As,, opea-end wrench
on the axle flats' Tighten axle nuts with 50-60 foot lbs. torque. Press azatnsl tire from rear
to make sure both cams are contasting frme pegs.
!46 MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCE
Slirlo Type Gearbox-This is common to lfarley-Davidson Twins and

B.S.A, Single cylinder models, adjustment being effected by slackening
gearbox bottom stud nuts, and sliding gearbox as required and retightening,
B,ear Chain Adjustments

A cycle type of set screw rear chain adjustment is common to most
makes. To adjust, slacken the wheel axle nuts and set screw locknuts, turn
set screws in as required. Take care to move each set screw an equal amount
and the wheel alig:nment will not be affected, Tighten adjustment scre'w
locknuts and wheel axle nuts securely.
It should be noted that the brake anchor plate boit needs to be slack-
ened on a few types before wheel can be moved. Be sure to retighten this
securely.
Cam Type At$ustment-An exception to the above method of rear
chain adjustment is the "cam" type used on some B.S.A., Panther and
Ariel tr'our spring frame machines. On the B.S.A. and Panther models
both cams are "keyed" to the axle, and adjustment is effected by slackening
axle nuts and turning axie end which is either squared or has trvo flats
on which a wrench can be fitted. Cams operate against pegs on inside of
rear fork ends, and the only precaution necessary is to press against back
of rear wheel to make certain that both cams are in contact u'ith the
frame pegs. Secureiy tighten axle nuts when required slack is obtained.
On the pre-1950 Ariel I'our spring frame models, cams are independently
set on each side, and care must be taken to nlove an equal amount to
niaintain wheel alignment.
Maintena,nce of Olrain Reliability-Periodic inspection and adjustment is
the greatest factor in maintaining chain reliability. Chain lubrication should
not be overlooked. Recommendations on this subject have been previously
covered in this chapter.
When chain is being checked for adjustment, it is aI$-ays adlisable,
particulariy on rear chains, to examine the connecting link spring clip.
On some models there is a tendency for the connecting link clip to tvear
ag'ainst the back of the primary chaincase. This applies particularly on
Triumphs, and where this occurs the ends of the chain connecting link pins
may wear down, and the clip drop off, resulting in the chain coming off in
service.
On some models it may be found an advantage to locate the connecting
link with the clip on the inside, but here again it should be noted that it
does not rub on the gearbox or rear chain guard. It is wise to carry a spare
rear chain connectin.g link, and make replacement if there is any sign of
the ends of connecting link pins wearing down close to the spring clip.
Rear Chain Guard Ctrearanee Spring Frarle ltodels-On spring frame
models it is important to note that the chain guard is properly centred over
rear chain, particularly near the rear sprocket, as other"wise, on the extreme
upward movement of the wheel, chain may strike edge of chain guard,
causing'noisy operation and endanger the security of the connecting link
spring clip. Due to the amount of clearance that the chain guard has rvhen
the rear springs are not compressed, this condition is not always apparent
on examination.
CHAIN ADJUSTMENTS 147
ru. 41
FITTING CHAIN CON-LINI( SPRING CLIP

llunt-nGe pliers are useful for fitting the Renold or Coventry type chaln con-link spring
c_lip. RemoYaI of clip ls done in simiiar fashion, applying nose oi pliers to open entl oi
clip md -Iink pin ud forcing clip direcuy back. On .lmerican type ahahs clip- ts split at
one end but is not designed for remoyal and refitting in the above fashion; thise clips are
best removed by prying off with aid of a penknifi or fine screwdrl.ver'and. refitietl tu
same manner.
Clip shoulai be tenewed if not a snug fit on link pin grmves.
Clip should be fitted. with closed end in the dlrection of rotation.
Whenever. adiusting rear chain examlne spring clip and connecting 1ink, replace clip if not
a snug flt.
Chnin Replacements-It is false economy to run with badly worn chains,
as very rapid sprocket wear results. Chain replacement is advisable when
it is possible to lift the chain off the sprocket abowt a/z the height of the
sprocket teeth or more. This is the quickest and simplest test on the chains
condition. ff the chain is removed, the length can be measured, compressed
and extended, and if the variation in length is in exeess of l6-/ts,,per foot,
replacement is recommended.
Magneto Ilrive Chain Atljustrnents

A considerable number of British models have chain ma,grreto drive
and the necessity of checking and adjusting tension at intervals of 2-5000
miles should not be overlooked. Correct adjustment is about r/+" slack in
centre of run in tightest spot. Chain adjustment should be made when
slack exceeds Yz".
It is necessary to remove the magneto chain cover on most types to
check on chain adjustment and this presents a good opportunity to check
on the magneto bearings. ff noticeable straight up and down play is present
on the magneto armature shaft, magneto bearings should be given atlention
at the first opportunity.
Adjustment of magneto chain is usually provided by sliding the mag-
neto back on its platform as on Ariel Singles, or by means of a pivoted
mounting as on Matchless and A.J.S.
Gen'erato Chain Acfustrments

The same requirements as listed for magneto drive chains apply,
except generator chain adjustment is generally effected by rotating the
generator. Rotating in one direction will tighten chain, and in the other
direction will slacken.
It is important to note that chain be revolved so that it is in its tightest
position before tightening is effected, and after elamp is tightened, adjust-
ment should lte rechecked. Notable exceptions are the Ariel tr'our models
which have self-tensioned magneto and generator drive chains.
Section 10
CA.RBUBETORS AND AIR, CT,EANERS
Carburetor Maintenarrce
Carburetor attention in the line of running maintenance is normally
confined to draining of earburetor float bowl, and sediment bowl where
fitted, at intervals as necessary, particularly in operation at below freezing
temperatures, to get rid of any water and dirt that may have accumulated.
Occasional mixture and throttle stop idling adjustments may prove
necessary, especially in event of substantial change in climatic or atmos-
pheric conditions. Carburetor flange securing screws or nuts should be
checked for tightness during routine checkovers.
Unless performance irregularities indicate need for carburetor dis-
mantling and cleaning sooner, this can generally be left to be done during
overhauls.
Beforo Adjusting Carburetor-Other maintenance work such as breaker
point and plug cleaning, also tappet adjustments, should be effected prior
to readjusting carburetor. Irregularities in performance thought to be
due to carburetor out of adjustment, are often a result of ignition trouble.
Carburetor float bowl should be first drained to get rid of any water in
bowl. Carburetor flange gasket should be replaced at any sign of leakage.
Air leakage at this point can be readily detected by filling an oil can u'ith
gasoline, and squirting gas.around carburetor flange with motor idling. An
air leakage will be indicated by a change in idling speed. Carburetor flange
nuts or screws should be checked for tightness, and motor should be warmed
up before adjusting.
Linkert anil Schebler Caxburetors (1927-L952 Types)

Atljusting Procednre
Linkert and Schebler carburetors as fitted to Harley-Davidson ald
procedure detailed below applies similarly to current models and back to
types made for the past 25 years. l
There are three external adjustments:-

(a) High-speed Needle (front on S.V. Twins, rear on O.H.V. Trvins).
(b) Low-speed Needle (rear on S.V. Twins, front on O.H.V. Tkins),
(c) Throttle stop idling screw.
If carburetor requires complete readjustment, proceed as follows:-
1. Screw both needles dorvn (clockwise) into their seats. Do not use
excessive pressure. IJnscrew (anti-clockwise) the high-speed needle
2-27/z turns, and the low-speed needle 3 turns. This will give an
excessively rich mixture, but the motor should start readiiy and the
correet individual adjustment of the needles should be made as soon
as motor becomes warmed uP.
2. Set the throttle stop screw to give a moderate idling speed on
retarded spark, or slightly advanced. At this time, note that the
throttle control wire is set so that twist grip operates throttle
lever through full range of movement.
CARBURETORS AND AIR CLEANERS 149
3, Screw down low-speed needle gradually until motor noticeably

misses and hesitates, and almost stops. tr'rom this position, which
is too weak, unscrew this needle (anti-clockwise) about 1/+ tur:;,
which will give a correct setting for the idling mixture.
4. The High-speed needle should receive its final adjustment on the
road, but can be adjusted approximately correct when stationary,
as follows: Set spark advance,_ gradually screw down needle
(clockwise), while at the same time opening the throtUe fairly
suddenly, then closing throtile to allow motor speed to drop,
repeating fairly sudden opening; when needle is screwed down to
where motor hesitates very noticeably before accelerating and
backfires through the carburetor, high speed mixture is too weak,
and needle should be unscrewed (anti-clockwise) about a/+ turn,
5. Re-set idling stop screw if necessary to give desired idling speed.
This is best set slightly faster than the slowest possible id.Ie,
6. Try slight adjustment either way on the High-speed needle at
35-50 m.p.h, on the road. Needle should be screwed out just
suffieiently to eliminate noticeable hesitation when the throtile
is opened fairly quickly.
r,inkert Fi-xeil High-speett Jet ryp+A number of. tg4z-7948 military
model motorcycles were equipped with Linkert fixed High_speed jei
carburetors. These are identical to the sta[dard type except trrat ttre
original type adjustable high-speed. needle is replaeed by a short needle
that is fitted screwed right down to the bottom ot the needle seat. A
locking plug screws dolrn on top of this needle to prevent slackening off
seat' This type can be readily identified by the smooth exterior of the
needle locking plug Iocated in the top of the high-speed needle threaded
hole in plaee of the knurled knob of the adjustable needle.
High-speed mixture gas flow is regulated by the size of the high-speed
- hole.
jet This jet replaces one of the two plain plug screws in tf,e lower
section of the carburetor body, accessible when the iloat bo,w,l is removed.
Size No. 1 fixed main jet is generally used on Twin model
Linkert carburetors with a asAa,,verrttTri, and the size No. 4 or No. 5 on
the 74" S.V. types with a 11,{0,, venturi,
Size of fixed high-speed jet should not normally require altering
for average conditions, unless earburetor venturi size is changed. Note on
these fixed high-speed jet jobs it is possible to richen the high-speed
mixture by removing the locking plug above needle and unscrewing the
needle slightly off the seat, and refitting the locking p1ug. This adjustment,
however, will rarely likely be necessary. Note thit conversioi can be
made to the standard adjustable high-speed needle by removal of the
locking plug and short needle, refitting the standard iype knurled knob
high-speed needle and replacing the fixed jet with a screw ptug o, soldering
over jet hole.
Linkert and schebler oartruretor cleaning Notes-E uel passage screw
plugs can be removed w,hen cleaning for blowing out pasiageways. Be
sure these are refitted and securely tightened before carburetor is atiachecl
to motor. check correct fitting of main jet noz,zle, This must be installed
with the extended, small diameter end up, fitting through hole in the
venturi, locating venturi in carburetor. spring must be fitted under nozzte
to keep it up in place. Do not remove the throtile shaft butterfly. No
purpose is served in removing this exeept when replacement of throtfle
shaft and bushings may be necessary.
LEVEP AL5O
]KING SC-REW5
)
ffi
w
TIIE LINIIEE,T AND SCHEBLER, TYPD CARBUR.ETOR ADJUSTfIENTS
Both lfarley-Davidson and fndian "V" Twln machines have been fitteil wtth these cuburetoF
for many years. Note that when fitted to the machine, on all side valve twiB modets tl]e
front needle is the high-speed. mixture adjustment and the rear needle the low speed
adjustment. The late type Harley 61" and 71't O.H.V. models have the carburetors nourred
differently from the side valve t$,ins and on these machines, the front needle is the loF
speed and the rear the high-speed.
Although of generally the same destgn, the Linkert requires more opening: of the DeeCles,
the amount of opening varies on almost every machlne, but a good mixture adjustmeat ts
easily obtained by following the detailed adjusttng lnstructions.
When refitting float chamber on earlier types where float chan-rber

location in relation to carburetor body is not fixed by "pegs," locate so
that gas feed is directly under the high-speed needle, Note gasket is
fitted under the float bowt bottom nut.
f'Iange Joint, Screws and Gasket-It is advisable to renerv gasket
v,rhenever carburetor is refitted. Tighten the flange screlvs very securel3r.
These screws should be checked. for tightness on periodic motorc-v*cle
checkovers.
Manifoltt iloints-It is impossible to get a good carburetor adjustment
if there is air leakage at the cylinder joint nipples, This can be detected by
setting the motor at idling speed and squirting gas over the manifold
joints. The motor will either speed up or slow down if there is a leakage.
The remedy is to tighten, but if leakage persists, it is wise to dismantle
and examine the joint surfaces. Heat-proof joining compound can be
used on the joint surfaces if in bad condition, but it is not normaliy
recessary.
CARBURETORS AND AIR CLEANERS 151
The manifold nipple nuts and brass cones are often damaged due ,to
chiselling nuts carelessly to tighten. A punch carefully applied can be
used to tighten these nuts, trut factory tools should be used if available.
Where air leakage cannot be stopped by tightening or use of joining
compound, replacement of the brass cones, and possibly the nipple nuts
is likely necessary.
tr'or more complete Linkert and Schebler Carburetor Servicing
information, refer to the Harley-Davidson and Indian Servicing Chapters-.
Amal Carburetors
Complete data on adjustments, cleaning, maintenanee and recon-
ditioning on Amal Carburetors is fully covered in Section Three (Carbu-
retors) of Chapter Sixteen, Reconditioning and ,servicing British Models,
Reference should be made to this section for any Amal servicing information
required.
NEEDLE
Iu. 43
THROTTLE A.hTAL CABBUBETOR

ADJUST}IENTS
Throttle Stop Scr€w Regulates
idlinB speed. screwing -
in (clockwise)
increases idlinB speed.
Pilot Air Screlr'-Regulates idling
and mixture adjustment up to %
throttle opening, screwing in (clock-
wise) richens mixture, screwing out
veakens mixture.
Throttle Neealle Groove Clip Positio[
mixtuie up to il throt-
PILOT AI -Regulates
tle opening, raising needle richens
SCREW.
mixture, lolaering needle weakens
rrrtuie.
}Iain 'Yet-Jet size regulates mix-
tuie fron 9l to fuu open throttle.
MAIN JET
Amal Ca,rtruretor Maintens,n4s-Illerrnally it is good policy to drain
the float bowl at 1000-mile intervals or more often if operating in freezing
temperatures. The laek of sediment bowl type fuel filters on most English
equipment necessitates much more carburetor cleaning than should be
necessary, and cleaning need varies eonsiderably dependent on fuel supply
and, the condition of the gas tank interior, particularly with regards to
whether rust particles get through into carburetor in any volume.
If carburetor hecomes noticeably slow to flood, it indicates an
obstructionin the gas tap, or in gas line. Overflooding of carburetor
when machine is standing upright, with gas tap on, indicates dirt on float
needle seat.
Erratic Itlling-This invariably results from an obstruction in the
idling jet gas passageways either in the carburetor body or jet block.
T52 MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCE
Sometimes such obstruction can be cleared without dismantling carburetor,

by the following procedure.
Remove the idling air screw (horizontal spring loaded screw), fill an
oil pressure squirt can lvith gasoline, fit nozzle into idling air screw
opening, and apply a number of squirts. Idling screw should be refitted
and mixture adjusted, If satisfactory idling is not restored, carburetor
should be dismantled and cleaned in accordance with instructions in
Section 3 of Chapter Sixteen.
Motor Fades Out When Throttle is Openetl-A sudden development of
this condition is almost certainly due to a partially or completely obstructed
main jet, Carburetor bottom bolt should be removed, main jet unscrewed,
blown through and refitted.
At periodic checkovers, carlluretor flange nuts should be checked
for tightness, carburetor bottom bolt and top throttle ring nut should
also be checked.
Amal Carburetor Adjustments-Refer to Illustration 43 for details
on Amal carburetor adjusr-ments. More complete adjusting information
will be found in Section 3, Chapter Sixteen.
Villiers Carburetors
Villiers Carburetors are covered in detail in Section X'ive of Chapter
Seventeen, (Villiers Engines). Refer to this section for servicing data-
Solex Carburetors
This car-type carburetor equipment is presently only used as standard
motoreycle equipment on the Ariel Four, This is covered in the next
chapter, "Ariel Servicing," Section F-our.
S.U. Carburetors
This automotive type carburetor is currently only used as standard
motorcycle equipment on the 1952 Triumph 650 c.c. Thunderbird model.
Reference should be made to Chapter Thirteen "Triumph Servicing."
Air Cleaners
There are five distinct types of motorcycle carburetor air cieaners:
(a) Wire Screen Type
(b) Copper Mesh Type
(c) X'abric Type
(d) Felt Type
(e) Oit Bath and Mesh Type
Air cieaner servicing requirements depend entirely on operating
conditions, much more frequent cleaning being necessary u'hen operating
under dusty conditions.
(a) Wire Screen Trype .A,ir Cleaner Servicing-Every 500 miles,
under favourable operating conditions, every 200 miles under dusty
conditions, remove, wash in gas, kerosene or solvent, dip in light oil, drain
and refit.
(b) Copper Mesh Type-Every 1000 miles under favourable conditions,
every 500 miles under dusty conditions, remove, wash in gas or solvent,
dip in light oil, drain and refit.
TIRE! MAINTENANCE 153
(c) Fabric lgrpe-Same servicing as (b) above.

(d) tr'elt TJrpe-Every 1000 miles under favourable conditions, every
- miles under dusty conditions; remove, wash in gas, allow element to
500
drain and dry, refit (do not oil). Note: These instruetions apply particu-
larly to B.S.A. Twin models. The element of this type of el-eiriei should
not be oiled.
(e) Oif Bath Type-Every 2000 miles under favourable conditions,
every 1000 miles under dusty conditions; remove oil cup, wash out and
refill to level mark with the same grade oil used in motor. Wash filter mesh
element in gas, kerosene or solvent, dip in oil, drain and refit. Refit oil
cup. Note: On this type it is important not to overfill oil eup above level
mark indicated, otherwise air intake "w,ill be restricted, causing a .,choking,,
effect on carburetor.
Air Clea,ner Servicing Note-On types with outer cover secured with
a single centre screw such as Indian and some Burgess and Vokes types,
be sure this screw is well tightened.
Ca,rburetor Main Jet Size With Air Cleaner-A reduction in earburetor
main jet size of from 1 to 4 sizes, may be necessary where air cleaner
is fitted, in comparison to jet size for use without air cleaner, Reference
should be made to the "Clearances and Settings,, section of chapter on
make concerned for jet size specifications with and without air cleaner.
Section 11
TIB,E MAINTENANCE
Good tire maintenance is one of the most important safety and
reliability factors, and something that is easily controlled by every rider.
fips on Tire Care

1. Check tire pressure at every gas stop under severe operating
conditions and high-speed driving. I}nder moderate conditions of
use check at 500-mile intervals or at least weekly. Inflate to
correct pressure whenever pressures drop two to three pounds.
2. Accelerate and brake smoothty. Rear wheel spin on acceleration
and skidding on brafting increase tire wear enormously.
3. Ride with some caution on roads or cross country operation where
there are sharp stones, outcropping rocks or frozei rrurd. High-speeA
riding on such surfaces obviously increases trazatd to tires,
4. Inspect tires at regular intervals, at least every 8000 miles or
more often under severe conditions. Remove any embedded stones,
glass and nails, etc. Be on the lookout for any high spot or swelling
appearing on the tire road surface or side wall. Such are indieations
of fabric damage usually due to heavy impact on sharp object
and are not always indicated by a cut or visible outside damage
initially. When there is evidence of such damage tire should, of
course, be removed and examined. prompt repair at a reliable
tire repair shop is essential. Delay and bad workmanship can
ruin a tire,
5. ff tire sizes and treads are interchangeable switch front and

rear tires (also sidecar tire on combinations) every 5000 miles.
When removed, take the opportunity to examine tires carefully,
observing for possible breaks in fabric, evident inside the tire.
Where front and rear tire sizes are not interchangeable front
tire should be removed as soon as sig:n of tread "cupping" is
evidenced and turned over (refitted so that side that was on left
side of machine'lvill be on rlght side). This reversal is normally
beneficial at about 5000-mi1e periods.
6. Check wheel alignment at least every 5000 rniles. Note. Wheel
alignment can be checked with string or a straight edge. Where
there is difference in section of front and rear tires be sure to
make allowance for this when checking. Note that on models that
are fitted with 3.25 front and 3.50 rear tires for instance, where
lvheel alignment check is made with a straight edg:e board, such
as a seven-foot 1"x4", a L/8" width strip should be tacked on
about a two-foot length at one end to allow for the approximate
%" less off centre difference or as an alternative t/8" car! be
trimmed off the board for a similar distance to allow for the
increase on the rear tire. The amount of "jog" required in
straight edge under such conditions is one-half the difference in
section between the two tires.
7. Remove and refit tires carefully to avoid damage to r,vire edge.
Tiro Pressures
The tire pressures required are dependent on the following factors:
1. Total weight of machine and load
2. Weight distribution i-
3. Size of tires
4. Type of service, etc.
The chart illustrated shows the recommended pressures for ar-era3le
service conditions on the more popular tire sizes based on individual r'.'l'Leel
loading. It should be noted that on the average machine $'ith I'iiet'.
abott 60o/6 of the total weight is on the rear rvheel and about 40t-. on the
front. n'or example, if machine r,vith rider weighs 600 Ibs., close io 360
Ibs. will be on the rear wheel and 24O lbs. on the front $'heel. \1-i:11 +'
section tires about 15 1bs. front and 18 Ibs. rear pressures \\'ould be r-,-Lr:!
suitabie. With a passenger of average weight, rear pressure should be
boosted to 2L-22 lbs. An increase in front tire pressure t'itir pas,.enger
is not so essential but about 2 lbs. on the average ls appropriate.
On the average 500 c.c. model with rider, loaded u"eight u'ill average
close to 550 lbs. The 3.50 size rear tire usually fitted is best run at about
20 lbs. pressure and the 3.25 front t-ire on the same machine at 18 1bs.
With a passenger more suitable pressures are 24 lbs. rear, 20 lbs. front.
For high-speed riding even slightly higher pressures than listed ma5'
improve handling, especially on good roads and on machines r.vith rear
rvheel springing. Adequate pressures reduce "drag." More por.r'er is
required to maintain a g:iven speed \,l,ith under-inflated tires. It rvill be
noted the front tire pressure recommendations are proportionatelv higher
than on the rear for the same wheel loading. This is generaliy desirable
to provide the best handling. With modern telescopic forks it is not
TIREI MAINTENANCE 155
Tire Pressure Chart

I
Tire Machine Weight on Pressure tn Weigb.t on Pressure ln
Siza and Rider Rear Tiro Rear Tire Frout Tire Frout Tire
5.00" 800 lbs. 480 lbs. 17 Ibs. 320 Ibs. 15 lbs.

5.00'/ 700 lbs. 420 lbs. l5 lbs. 280 lbs. 13 lbs-
5.00'/
4.50'l
600 lbs. 360 lbs. 13 lbs. 240 lbs. ll lbs.
800 lbs. 480 lbs- 20 lbs. 320 lbs. 17 lbs.
4.50'l 700 lbs. 420 lbs. 18 lbs. 280 lbs. l5 lbs.
4.50,' 600 lbs. 380 lbs. 16 lbs. 240 lbs. 13 lbs.
4.00" 800 lbs. 480 lbs. 22 lbs. 320 llls. l9 lbs.
4.00'' 700 lbs- 420 lbs. 20 lbs. 280 lbs. l7 lbs.
4.gotl 600 lbs. 360 lbs. 18 lbs. 240 lbs. 15 lbs.
3.50" 700 lbs. 420 lbs. 24 lbs. 280 lbs. 20 lbs.
a.50" 600 lbs. 360 lbs. ,1 lbs. 240 lbs, 17 lbs.
3.50" 500 lbs. 300 lbs. 18 lbs. 200 lbs. 15 []s.
a.2i" 650 lbs. 330 lbs. 22 lbs. 220 lbs. 18 lbs.
a.25" 450 lbs. 270 lbs. 19 lbs. 180 lbs. 15 lbs,
3.00" 450 lbs. 270 lbs. 21 lbs, 180 lbs. 17 lbs.
3.00'/ 400 lbs. 240 lbs. 19 lbs. 160 lbs. I5 lbs.
necessaly for the front tire to absorb bumps to the same extent as the
rear. Note: On rigid rear wheel machines where riding comfort is the
main consideration and speeds are moderate, slightly lower pressures than
those listed, can be used to advantage.
Sidecar Tire Pressures-Addition of sidecar usually calls for increase
in rear tire pressure of 5 lbs., front tire 2 lbs. and operat-ing sidecar
wheel pressure same as front,
Tire Rermoval and Befitting

Drop Centre Type Tire Removal-Various steps are detailed below
for anyone not accustomed to tire removal procedure. Two tire levers are
sufficient. The type recommended is that u,ith one end bent over rvith
an "eye" for hooking on v.'heel spokes. These simplify the job considerably,
1. Completely deflate tire.
2. Remove valve stem rinr nut. Lay u,heel on floor and step on tire
all way round. Turn over and step on other side likenise to
compietely free tire from sticking to rim.
3. Press a section of one side of the tire opposite the valve stem,
down into the drop cen+-re of rim as far as it will go.
4. Insert two tire levers, one on each side of the valve stem about 6,,
apart. Lever the tire bead out from rim r,vith one lever and hook the
tire lever "eye" arouncl spol<e. Press clown other lever, rerrove and
vrork around tire taking about 4,, to 6,, each time until about half
bead of tire is out of the rim then the balance can easily be puIled
out by hand. Tube can now, be removed and tire can usually be
puiled off rim by hand without difficulty. If not, ievers can be used.
T'uhe Repairing
Crude R,utrber Tires-Nail holes and minor cuts in crude rubber
tubes can be verv satisfactoriiy repaired by either the coid patching or
hot patching (vulcanizing) method. Directions for cold patching "*'i11 be
found on t:ube repair kits and shouid be followed closely. Patch shouid be
large enough to extend r/2"-3/+" on ail sides of hote or cut, corners and
edges should be beve11ed. Buffing of adequate area before applying cement
is also important, to good adhesion.
156 MOTORCYCLE MAI}ITENANCE
Synthetic Rubber Tubes-Tire manufacturers recommend that

synthetie rubber tubes with an injury larger than a small nail hole should
be vulcanized to ensure a satisfactory repair, If, of necessity, a cold patch
repair is to be attempted on a cut, thorough roughening of the area is
most important and the edges of the cut should. be trimmed with shears
to a 45 degree bevel while the ends of the cut shoutd be cut out round
to reduce tendency for cut to extend.
Synthetic rubber tubes can generally be identified by a red stripe or
the letter "S", and are noticeably less elastic than those of natural rubber.
Tube Testing After Repair-Inflating tube and submerging in water
to test for possible further leaks is very advisable. The possibility of a
nail penetrating through tube and causing a puncture on the inside of the
tube also should not be overlooked. A few minutes spent checking to
ensure tube is free from any air leak before refitting is time well spent.
Care of Synthetic Tires and Tubes-Synthetic rubber has less tear
resistance than crude rubber and unnecessary stress should be avoided.
When mounting synthetic tires and tubes a soap solution should be used
as lubrieant on the tube and tire beads which will reduce friction and
installation stresses, Minor cuts in tires should be promptly repaired or
they may rapidly grow beyond repair.
I)rop Centre Tire Refitting-The steps detailed below apply when tire
has been removed from rim. If tube has heen taken out by only removal
of one side, it can be refitted without removal of tire but if wheel is
out of machine, time is usually saved by taking tire off and placing
tube in tire and refitting together.
1. Inflate tube very slightly, just enough to make it take shape,
no more.
2. tr'it tube into tire.
3. Holdtire with one hand at a slight angle from vertical tire
resting on floor w{th tube valve stem at bottom. Take wheel
with other hand and lower it into tire so that valve stem goes
into rim hole. Secure valve stem by fitting rim stem nut (if
one is used). Locate wheel so one edge of rim is in centre of tire,
that is one edge of tire should be inside of rim and one outside
in the vicinity of valve stem.
4. Pressing down on wheel rim with one hand and pulling o1.er tire
casing with other hand, one side of the tire can easily be pulled
over the rim aII the way around. OnIy rarely should any assistance
from tire levers be necessary at this stage.
5. Now levers should be used. Start opposite the valve stem and
gradually work either way levering the other side of the tire onto
rim. Wheel is best located on the floor for this operation and it
is an advantage to kneel on the section of tire opposite the valve
stem where it is first levered on, to keep it in position and also
to hold tire bead well into the drop centre of rim. Note that the
last part that should be levered on is the section in the vicinity
of the valve stem.
Points to Romember on Tire Removal and Refitting
1. Start levering off tire on one side only; start in vicinity of valve
stem.
TIRE MAINTENANCEI T57
2. When refitting, start levering on side opposite valve stem and end
up putting on section near valve stem last.
3, Avoid "pinching" tube when levering by not inserting levers any
further than necessary, noting tube does not get caught between
lever end and rim.
4. Make use of the "drop centre" in rim by pressing the tire edge
into this directly opposite to where you are levering. This will
give you more slack in the tire where you are working, simplifying
removing and refitting and also reducing strain on tire wire edge,
5. Centre tire on rim as it is inflated.
6. Elxamine tires carefully when removed and have any slight defects
repaired before they get worse.
fire Security Bolts

Some sports models, notably the Triumph Twins, have been equipped
with tire security bolts. The security bolt is a shoe that fits inside tire
between tube and tire beads, and bolts tire beads to rim.
The purpose of the tire seeurity bolt is to positively clamp the tire
to the rim. This eleminates danger of rim turning in tire and tearing
out valve stem from inner tube. Security bolts permit the use of reduced
tire pressures when necessary for increased traction without danger of
tire slippage and tube damage.
fire Bemoval a,ntl Refitting with Security Bolt
Removing-Procedure same as for tires without security bolts already
listed, except security bolt nut should be slackened right off to the end
of bolt and pushed well in to centre of tire by pressing on bolt end with
thumb before commencing to lever off.
Refitting-Locate security bolt shoe inside of tire at same time
valve stem is located through rim. Make sure security bolt is right inside
of tire and not caught between tire and rim.
Pull on one edge of tire completely taking care that the other edge
does not get onto rim while putting first edge on.
Start levering on second edge of tire opposite valve stem and
security bolt; press on security bolt head, this should press in easily
indicating security bolt shoe is correctly located inside tire and. not
caught between tire and rim.
When last edge of tire is levered on to within the last foot surrounding
the security bolt, hold in on the bolt end right in to rim as last of tire is
levered on. This will ensure that bolt shoe stays inside of tire and does not
slip between tire and rim.
Einally check to see that bolt can be depressed easily to definitely
ascertain cor"rect fitting; inflate tire; finally tighten security bolt nut.
Diseartling Security Bolts-Caution-Some riders discard the security
bolt because of difficulty in removing and replaeing tires. F or normal
service, the security bolt is quite unnecessary, horrever, if security bolt
is not to be refitted. Note: The hole in the rim must be filled, otherwise
there is definite danger of the tube "blowing out" through this hole. A
shallow round-head.ed screw fitted with nut towards wheel centre, can be
userl, and this should be covered by rim tape.
Rim Tapes-A rim tape should tre fitted to avoid possibility of damage
to tube from spoke ends. ff a lim tape is not availatrle, file off any spoke
ends that project beyond nipples, and apply three or four layers of
friction tape around rim centre to completely cover spoke nipples and
spoke ends.
Tire a,nd lVheel Balancing-Note some tires are factorl- balanced
and intended to be installed with the balanee mark at the valve sterrr.
When refitted note that tire is iocated accordingly. On machlnes used
for high-speed travelling, it is an advan+-age to check wheel balance after
tires are installed adding tv,/o suitable weights (about g0 degrees apart on
the light side), to correct any irregularity in balance. Round v,,ire solder
v,'rapped around spokes ciose to rim is verv suitable material for thjs
purpose. Where ilalance weights are used balance should be rechecked
whenever tire is removed and refit+-ed unless replaced in the same posilion
as before rernoval.
Section 12
SIOEAGE SETiVICING
When motorcycle is to tre out of use for a period of turo monlhs oi.
longer, it is wise to undertake pre-storage servicing as detailed in thls
section. This wiIl eliminate possibility of any appreciable deterior.atlon
occuring during storage, and \^,iIi enabie machine to be pur- back in:o
service quickly whea the opportunity presents, and without the nee.l
of any extensive work that rright otherwise be required.
Fre-Storage Servicing
ff machine is to be vrashed dorrn before storing, be sure to run maci'.-ne
afterwards to dry out any moisture that may have worked irlto $hee-
i:earings, brakes, rear chain, controis, etc. Hosing down rvith lvatet' is Lo'.
recommended just before storing, unless inachine can be tlto:'o,-rgltl:.-
dried out.
Lubrication-After a run of five or ten miles that wallls up orl :ar:i:
thoroughly, Crain oil, refill and run motor five to ten minutes '.\-iih ne',t'
oil in circulation. Before stopping motor feecl about an eggcupfr.rl of o:l
into reotor through carburetor air intake hv an oil squirt cai. Thls ri-rll
reduce possibility of rustin8 of piston rings, cylinder, r'alves and guides.
Note: Considerab!.e damage to these parts as well as crankshaft beat'.rgs
will result from corrosive action where machine is stored \i-ith olC ciituted
oil in the engine in which both harmful acids and u'ater are p:eseni.
Coinplete lubrication of the machine shoulC be efiecteC. Prin:ar1-
chaincase should be drained and refilled to the correct leYel $'ith S.-\.E.
No. 10 oil. Rear chain should be oiled, iikewise a1l conirol cab,1e exposed
ends, gearbox level topped up and grease gun applied to all grease fittings.
Gas Tank and Ca,rburetor-Gas tank tap should be shut off and motor
run to a stop to drain carburetor. If machine is to be stored for less
than two months. it is recornmended that gas tank be left fairlv full.
ff for a longer period, drain the tank completely and air out to dr1-.
As an additional precaution against tank rusting, about a quart of gas
can be left in the tank, about a half cup of oii added to tl-ris, and the
STORAGE SERVICING 159
machine rocked vigorously so that the oil and gas mixture will splash
over the entire inside of tank surface.
Battery-should be fully charged and terminals lubricated with oil
or grease to prevent corrosion. ff period of storage is not to exceed two
months, battery can be safety teft in the machini. F or longer period of
inactivity it is advisatrle to remove battery and leave wltrr a reliable
battery service shop to be given occasional chirging which will reduce rate
of deterioration. rnactivity is more injurious to a battery than use. Batteries
that are idle for a period of a year or more will usuaily be found in need
of replacement. Note a cool place sueh as a basement ii most suitable for
battery storage.
Tires-Blocking machine up to take load off tires is advisable if
) thete is a possibiJ.ity of tires going flat during period. of storage, otherwise
inflate tires fairly hard.
Finish a,nd Weather Protection-A coat of wax over paint work,
plated and polished aluminum parts gives a fair measure of protection.
Grease applied to chrome may give a measure of protection, but is
rather messy and collects a lot of dirt, involving extrs, cleaning down
when putting back into service. A canvas cover draped over the machine is
obviously a good idea where subject to dust or dampness, and discourages
meddling. Single cylinder motors should. be left on the compression strohe
with both valves closed. covering the carburetor air intake on all types
not fittecl with an air cleaner is advisable.
Af ter-Storago Servicing
Cleaning, refilling of gas tank, inflating tires and installation of
battery where removed, is all that should be necessary if the pre-storage
servicing detailed has been carried out.
The points most likely to require attention, particularly where
pre-storage servicing has not been carried. out, are detailed below.
Gas Tap Leakage-Round Plunger Type Teps-On Ariel, Triumph and
some other British makes with ptunger type gas taps, trouble is usually
experienced due to shrinkage of the cork when dry for a consideralole
period of time, ft is advisable to cheek on these before filling gas tank
and note, if plungers are quite slack and do not have a slight arnount of
"drag" when operated, they will need attention. Removal of the grub
screws on tap body will enable the plungers complete to be withdrawn.
Submerging of plungers and corks in hot water will usually swell corks
sufficiently. Corks can then be expanded by screwing'in inside end into
plunger which compresses cork. Note on some pre-1946 rnodels a locknut
is fitted at the outside end of plunger that first requires slackening
before plunger adjustment can tre effected. Corks should be expanded
sufficiently so that plungers have a fair amount of drag in the tap body.
If new plunger corks are available, fi'uting is a good policy. When
refitting observe plungers must be turned so that slot in plunger registers
with hole that grub screw fits through and grub screw retightened securely
to avoid possibility of loss of plungers. Note that the round end main
supply plunger on *driel and Triumph taps fits in end of tap to which
the gas pipe bottom outlet is closest.
Push-Ty1re Flat Slitle Taps-Note: A cork or leather washer is used
on either side of the flat slide. When leakage occurs due to shrinkage of
the leather or cork washers, replacernents can be fairly easily made up
160 MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCEI
if correct parts are not available. If cutting leather or cork washers,

note that a hole is at least %0" diameter, and cut clean so as not to
provide a source of plugging.
Gas Tank Gum Deposit--If gas has been in tank over three months,
drain out completely and flush tank before refitling. Stale gas should be
discarded. If there is gum deposit in tank or gas taps, alcohol will be
found useful in removing.
Carburetor-If gas has been left in carburetor for a long period,
gum deposit may have formed in jets and passag:eways. Dismantling and
cleaning w,ith alcohol or carburetor cleaning ftuid is recommended.
Erratie performance and indications of a weak mixture after long storage
are often due to a carburetor gpm deposit res+-ricting gas flow such as a
partially obstructed idling jet passageway or reduction in size of main
jet opening.
Battery-When refitting note negative terminal is grounded on
mostly all 1950 and earlier machines. There are some exceptions. Refer
to page 137. Note terminals are cleaned, Iubricated and securely tightened.
Lubrication-Check all lubrication, particularly motor oil tank, gearbox
and ehaincase levels. Make sure grades are suitable for season. Note: lf
Ievel ln motor oil tank has dropped considerably, do not top it up fuliy
until after starting up. Providing there is at least two inches in the tank,
start up motor and check level after a few minutes of operation, On some
machines oil will work past the feed pump and the ball check valves tvhere
fitted, at a slo.,v rate and over a course of some months storage, the
crankcase will almost completely fill up with oil and engine tank may be
dry or almost so. As soon as engine starts up the return pump trtlt
rapidly take care of the excess oil in crankcase although initially a
great deal of exhaust smoking may occur.
Wtrere it is discovered that oil has passed from tank to engine
during storage, it is a wise idea to drain crankcase before starting up
but in any event do not fully restore level in engine oil tank until after
engine has operated for about ten minutes after which return pump shouJd
have fully taken care of all surplus oil in crankcase. Note that if chaincase
or gearbox oil levels are down, these should be immediately restored to
correct level before putting into operation.
Clutch SIip-If clutch slip occurs after storage on a "dry'" t;,pe
clutch model such as the B.S.A. twin, trouble is likely due to oil that has
passed from tank to crankcase working into chaincase and entering clutch
via the clutch sprocket bearing. A substantial drop in oil tank level dunng
storage may indieate this trouble. Dismantling and thoroughlv scrubbi:ig
inserted plates with gasoline and drying off wiU be necessary if this has
occurred.
Clutch slip when attempting to start that is not a resuit of oii ha',ing
worked into a dry type clutch is more like1y caused by piston rings being
rusted to cylinder. This is only likely if the pre-storaging servielng detaiied
has not been given. fn such case, remove spark plugs and squirt penetrating
oil into cylinders, allow to stand a few hours and free by rocking back and
forth in high gear.
Ignition-Have spark plugs cleaned on sand blast cleaner. Check
breaker points, clean points if necessary. Note that rocker arm point is
quite free on pivot, add drop of oil to cam ring lubricator felt on magnetos
and spot of grease to breaker cam on coil ignition jobs.
Cleaning-Clean thoroughty to remove accumulated dust and any
pre-storage preservative oil or grease on plated parts, etc.
CTIAPTER F'TVE
ARIEL SERT/ICING
Thip chapter contains servicing information apprying especiaily to Arier

machines. x'or information on operating, refer to btriptei B. .dn outline
of average maintenance requirements, as well as useful general maintenance
information, will be found in chapter 4. Data on complete reeonditioning'
procedure applicable to Ariel machines, and particularly components such
as carbureto,rs, magnetos, generators, electrical systemi and learboxes, is
covered in chapter 16. Reference should be made to these ihapters for
required information not found in this chapter on Arie1 servicingi
Section 1
LTIBRICATION
Grades of Motor Oil-For recommended oil grades for varying tempera-
tures, refer to the lubrication section of chapterZ, "Maintenante,; page 126.
Motor
-oil changing-The
out. and refilled
motor oil tank should be drained, frushed
with fresh oil of the correct grade at 1000-mile intervals
when operating under favorable and comparitively dust-free conditions,
at_ above freezing temperatures. under dusty operatirig conditions,
especiarly
where an efficient carburetor air cleaner ls-noi tittea]oil should be cLangea
at 500-mile intervals or oftener, if necessary.
when operating in temperatures berow freezi4g, oir should be changed
at 500-mile intervals, or oftener if there is evidence of water accumulation
in oi1, or if ]ow oil pressure is experienced as a result of oil dilution. This
trouble is most prevalent where machines are used on short runs in eold
weather. u*nder some conditions oil changing at intervals of 200 miles
will be found advisable, to maintain the lubrication system in an efficient
state,
, oil ehange should be made when oi1 is warm, immediately after opera-
tion. rt is beneficial to flush oil tank with light oil or oil mixed. ririth klrosene,
gasoline or varsol. Machine should be leaned over well to ensure that
any
flushing oil drains completely from tank. rt is not essential to remove for
cleaning the feed filter from the tank or the return fitter in the basc :rf
crankcase, on eaeh oil change. ft is good policy to remove these and clean
at least at 5000-mile intervals, and when overhauling. see oil rilier seivicing
recommendations on the various models that follow.
oil Filters-singles-Two wire gauze filters are employed. The feed
t"., supply filter is located at the bottom and rear of oil tank, ind is removable
by unscrewing the large hexag'on cap screw. The return oil filter is located
at the bottom of crankcase, and can be dismantled for cleaning by removing
the four hexagon cap screws at the bottom of crankcase. Vfr,ui, refittirqg]
make sure the gasket is in good condition. A new gasket should be used
if available, if not, old gasket should be coated wi-tr 3ointing compound.
762 A.RIEL SE,RVICING
Avoitl over-tightening filter plate screws. These are 7/4t' coarse thread and
can easily be broken if over-tightened, Note: Remains of a broken off
screw, resulting from over-tightening:, can generally be easily removed by
careful application of a punch when the crankcase is hot, American a/1"x20
thread screws 3/4tt Tong are satisfactory replacements.
OiI Filters-Twin Models-Two wire gauze filters are employed. One

is located in the oil tank directly below the filler cap, and can be removed
through this opening for cleaning. This is very conveniently done when-
ever motor oil is changed. Return oil from the motor passes through this
filter as it returns to tank. The first return filter is located at the bottom
of the crankcase and is accessible when the plate secured with four cap
screws is removed. I
The crankcase filter does not require cleaning at every oil change but t
should be serviced at intervals of at least every 5000 miles, and when t
overhauling'. X'ilters only require washing in gasoline or varsol.
When refitting the crankcase filter, note that the coil spring fits under
it between the filter and bottom plate, holding it up in position. l'it a ne',v
gasket if available; if not, apply gasket compound to old gasket. Tighten
filter plate screws with moderate pressure.
OiI Filters-"Square Four" Motors-193?-1952-A wire gauze feed
filter is attached to the hexagon cap screw on bottom of tank at right side.
This fits through the banjo union at the top end of the feed pipe. It is not
essential to remove and clean this filter at every oil change, but cleaning
should be done at least every 5000 miles. Note that fibre washers are
refitted on both sides of the banjo oil union through which filter plug
passes.
Return oil filter is located at bottom right hand side of crankca-qe. On

1948 and earlier models it is secured by a large hexagon cap scretv and
on 1949-1952 models by a plate with four cap screws.
On the 1948 and earlier models, it is most advisable to renror-e this
filter and clean every time oii is changed because of "shredding" of tire
r:ragdyno drive chain fibre rubbing strip which results in fibre accumulation
around the screen that sometimes obstructs the return oil supp13'. a:'rd
also affects the operation of the purnp ball valves. Note-A coDper asl:es:cs
gasket is used on cap screw and filter is fitted with the spring "uo."
On 1949-1952 models, the fibre accumulation referred to does not
occur as the fibre rubbing strip for the timing ehains is not used on the
Iater models. Servicing the crankcase filter on these later models at 2000-
mile intervals will reduce possibility of return oil pump trouble. Replace
filter plate gasket or use jointing compound on o1d gasket. Tighten filter
plate screws moderately.
Ariel Flunger Oil Purnps-1930-1952 Singles. 1937-195? Square Four
Models-A double plunger pump is used on both the Singles and Four
models, although the Four pump is of much larger capacity. On both t]?es
the small plun,ger is the feed, and the large plunger the return pump.
A spring loaded ball check valve is contained in the cap screrv belorv \
each plunger. Dirt on the ball valve seatings is about the onlv trouble
experienced with these pumps. A weak cr broken ball valve spring is a
t-a,'tq
possible but rare cause of trouble.
LUBRICATION
163
t[t. 41
(risht)
Shows the Ariel oil DumD
and Jolnt face gasket.- Th-e
trmtng gear cover is removed
to show the gasket on this
loint surface. Also note that
an additional .005,, thick
Paper washer aS shown in
black is used around the
orl return feed pipe
rrom crankcase into Ieadins
cover. This is to timin,
ensurE
against any possibitity of
a[-reakage at this Doint
wnic,rl would affect return-
tng of oll.
It
I
t
I
IU. 45
f}r"# *Ig"#rtur"uilfil'ut sprocket nut berns hammered usht. Thrs must be trshtenear
764 ARIEL SE'RVICING
If failure in oil supply or return oceurs, remove cap screws- below

pump plungers and *t"h'oirt ball seatings in the pump body' An oil squirt
can filled wit-h gas o, to"rts"r" is useful f6r this
job' Cl*n balls' springs and
crp! thororghly, and refit; balIs first, follor'ved with springs'
"up ""r"*
When these are being itilt"a vrith the pump in place, the springs can be
treta in place in thelap screw cups attO tf'" balls secured on pump top of the
springs by smearing"the *i'tt g""ut". N,ote that the balls fit into body
iilr"t,-r"u:,r*"d by spiings and cap.screws' Tighten these screws
pump
secuiely. The oil -rour securi"lg screws on the single models and the secur-
irrg nuis on the moaets"should be checked for tightness whenever
.iip"-p is beirlg serviced. Note method of tightening and locking oil pump
is
sho'wn in Itlustrations No. 46 ar,d 47'
"c"6*s tre replaced whenever
Oil Pump Ga,sket, Plunger PuYnps-This should made up be sure that
pump has b""n N:ote-If fasket is being
oil holes register"u*orred. with la*rge hole regiiterilg yjll. the.double
holes on return pump. Cast<et should be approximately '010" thick' If a
"otr""lfy
thickerthanstandaro.g,.t'"t-t'u.beenfittedatsometime,oilpumpjoint
,,Uo*";.;; ifris can be level]ed by rubbing the pump body
surface may be
on a sheet of emery ciotrr. ptacea on a sheet oi glass or machined
level
surface. Be sure to wash thoioughly after such an operation'
Oil Pump Slitling Block-This should be fitted with the chamfered
-rroG'towarol O,i"l"g peg' Replac-e sliding block if any sign of
can be seen or cracking at driving peg hole'
"ag"-of
wear
1950-1952 Oil Pump-singlo Motors-A larger capacity o11 pump $'as
\tr'ith the
mtroa-uceo on the rs86 sl"gie motors. This is interchangeable is
p,rrrp ,r."4 on eariier singlJ models, and when oil pump repiacement
;;c ;r* tn eartier ma-chines, it is recommended that this new larger
capacity pumP be fitted.
cylinder models
T'lywheel Oil Purifier Plug-Single. Modpls-All Single flyrvheel rim.
are fitted with a c"rrtriirg"t-oil pu"rifier plug in the_right
Dt;t;;d abrasive particles"in tne oit feed to the con-rod big-end are tlircrvn
into this cupped plug by centrifug'al force' This plug should be removed
at least 6vei.y 5000 mi-les. Access to this plug can be obtained
and cleaned
via the filter plate ui tt,d Uotto* of crankcase' or if the cylinder bi:ck is
A good fitting IAa" box. socket should
removed, from the crankcase opening'
be used for removing ana reritliag [rri. i-t.ts. It is important
to re-tighten
packed
The dirt i" tftis plug wili geneiatty be found quite sotidly
i. "*o.t readily ;;;.i"d by slraping out with a knife blade' after
""."r"fy-
"na piug should-be washed iir gasotine or varsol to thoroughly clean'
;irl"h
Note-On some models an oii feed tulle is used in conjunction rvith this
pf"S. If the tube Arops out Auring note it should ie fitted rvith
'prug. This oif feed
-cleaning,
tube is not essential' and the Red
irr"-rtrg" end in tire
Hunter moclels narr" it*?ys been produced without it' It can be dispensed
with on the other models as well.
oilPressureReatling_Singles-onlg4landearlierSinglemodelsan
"reteasJ
acl-iustable oil pressure valve was fitted, located at the front of
ffitd;;;"; immediatetv above the oil pipe connection' This
baII '9*:'feed
release valve should be adjusted to give a pressure
""":;: ;-";;;;'-or ro-rs 1bs. on this type the pressure reading does not
=.,.ini-toaaed
;f;rf;"'il;t."iion ot tea.ing oil pres.suie. The pressure reading is actuallv
vah'e, and is
the built up pressure betwin the oil pump and the release
usedtoenableapr"..,,,"gaugetobeoperatedasanindicationoftheoiling pressure for
svstem functioning, and iI fu-rther serves to provide a steady
oil teea to the O.H.V. rockers'
LUBRICATION 165
Sudden loss o,f oil pressur_e on this type may be due to dirt lodging
under the oil pressure rerease baII varve slating. Removar of the pressure
adjusting screw rocated. at the rower front of -timing gi-.i""
to spring and ba, for creaning purposes. wtren reisslmilinfi
"or"", note""""".
ba,
fits first, followed by thimble anA spring.
oil Pressure-194}-rg1l singres-A non-adjustable oil pressure varve
is located in the timiqg cover atlhe outside end o,f the crankshaft
oil feed
i2""-)": {Te;uv behind the oil pump. This can be seen in rltustration 48.
rn rare lnstances, where_diri.becomes lodged on this ball seating,
be cleaned after removar of the magneto-chain cover.rra it can
applying air pressure to the oil feecl- hole, or the ball can oii-p-u*p,
be
rry
^depressed
and-the seating washed, using a squirt can filled with gasotine-or
trt should not normally, solvent.
"-r"r
[" *"""""u.y to the oil pressure bocly
assembly, however, a lug ""*or"
which can be lripped with priers dn the outside
end of the pressure varve assembty, eriabies withdrawar. rn some cases
where this is a very tight fit, *rririrrg ir*i"g cover
wil assist removar.
Generally, if oil to tank, visible when the filler cap is
.is_.returnin_g
removed, it is a fair indication that the oiling system is funitioning
factorily on the single cylinder models. satis_
1952 singres-No oir pressure gauge is used on these

t pressure rerease varve_in the timing iover, referrea moders. The
dispensed with. oil feed to the valve-rockers is taken
to arovel is also
The best check on oi1 circuration is to occasionalry or"""""off the return rine.
flow to tank with filler cap removed. ioi
""trrn
Gear Type Oil pump, Twin Models_It is unusual for any
be required until a very considerable miGge has been servici4g.to
recommended that this -unless covered.
-uri'rt is not
_pump be removed
event of Iubrication trouble, in tfr"
""""..""y,
until atl other points have first been checked.
T19 Pr*p can be removed after the oil filtler plate
withdrawn by removing the four securing ."""*a and screen have been
case' when repracing pump, note that the"joint
at the bottom of crank-
washer i" i; t;;a i-onuition
and corree'y positioned, tfrat the tongue of the oil pump spindle
_and
eng'ages with the driving shaft slot. -- r----r
Whe't servicing this gear type pump, note that only the gaskets
come with the manufacturer's gasket set, or gaskets that
thickness, should be 'pump of
between the sections""*t-ry"iL
on aisembly. "u*"
,yse-d
thicker gaskets are fitted, oil pump efficfuncy may be seriously reduced.ff
Note-oil pump sections are secured by two screws fitted through
body from above and by the four securing ,"."*"
pump filter plate and screen are removed, it is at bottom. whenever oil
tightness of these four bottom screws. advisable to check on the
oil pressure-Twin Moders-Maximum pressure is rimited bv a non-

adjustable pressure rerease varve rocated in^trre ristri-ena^'oi*ciirr<srrat.
This rereases oi1 when pressure- exceeds approximalery t0 r6..-N;;e
norm_al operating oil pressure when the molor and that
oil ire *"r* ,t a road
speed of 30 m.p.h. in top ,gear, may rang.e an5rwhere from
gradual 10ss of, oil pressure occurring orr1" a period 15 to b0 ]bs. A
of some thousands of
miles, is g'eneraily due to increase in"con-rod rrig-""a ."J"iJiri'I""it"rrurt
bearing crearances. A slight increase in bearin!
a substantial reduction in oil pressure. Need fo*r "ru".rrr"""-*ili'i"surt ,n
attention
not generarly indicated until oil piessure drops below ro to ilu"iirrs" i.
in high gear. rrrs.-at io m.p.h.
166 ARIEL SERVICING
ffi *f i
&*#[,
ffffi
,tril ;iig
Ill. !16
TIGHTENING ARIEL OIL PU}IP SCREII'S

The oil pump body securing screws must be securely -tighten-ed' Note the--application of
i"i-sc.ii ivrericn io" sciworii.ei flats; this pro!ides useful additional leverage.
{i.iiru
Lffi
rd ij;l
i#
[]
i, |.{ ',i-.,,,,
!, t', ;i-i
i:,::: :::'. I
t: ::- :
l';:' 'r, ;'- r:
Ill. 47
LOCrING TIIE OIL PITMP SCR,EWS

A posttive method of ensuring that oil pump _boaly sclews wlll Dot slacken off lE to Dunch
the- edge of pump body against screw heatl 8lots.
LUBRICATION r.67
A sudden loss in oil pressure may be due to dirt on the pressure rerease
valve ball seating. To gain access toihis, remove timing coirer. The release
valve assembly may be unscrewed from erankshaft *end,
prn removed followed by spring and ball. Note_It may beor the cotter
necessary to
lean machine over to iigift to* remove ball, and when this is done the
::rlil-g ...". be washed, uslng gasotine in an oil squirt can, or air pressure.
ln some instances a weak spring may be the cause of maintained l-ow pres-
sure. Spring can be carefully stretched aysout y+,,, and the results observed.
ffi$$g?jriiffifu l,{l{.f'F}tl"..
t{rs'fu3s Mu3"
gl Srneroxt ro
lH t r? Doti xor vget
R'*.."'"'
3ffi!. i*r'.HLLf
corlrc?tY l
Loca?ro hrttta
nat O[ Holri-
Olr
ITI. 4E
ARIEL SING',E CIiANI{CASE AND OILING SYSTEM CROSS SECTION
This illustration shows the p-lulge-r plmp spring ball valve,-oil pressure release
mainshaft oit .teed nozzle and oir feed p.a1;as..ewav to con-roa Uig:ira valve in the
On these models it should be noted ihat lire 6tf'pris"u.e release valve ""-*'i6ib_ifii"urrgr"".
ts no[_adjustable.
Loss of oil pressure not due to pump bait v"r""--t.:oirfie or supply shortage
dirt on the pressure reteas ba, vatve seating. ttis im.usudtty Ue iie?nja-in-iface may b6 aue to
removat of pump, when the roun-d mctal pluj pres*a into-iimin;;o;;";;"ujollg tV
valve. is accesslble- DeDressinE ball anal apptvin"g iii pm"ure t"rr
or oil squirt wiu usually cleaD.
,".*f."?r:,X",J;rifJ ,!ri.'"*';"a
rorcreifiin!--i1.n;;;;, d"ippr-n? li,A:';i,fr',pi[i;.,tu*log
on 1941 and earlier mode'ls an adjustable oil pressure release valve was fitted
front lower corner of timing eover. wormar p'resiuiJ ie.-jorng rs 10 to 1E lbs- locateat at t.Ire
168 ARIEL SE'RVICING
A weak pressure release spring is indicated !y-colstani low,p,ressure in

tomparis6n to excessive bearing clearance.which is indicated by a very
hot'
great reduction in oil p"L..r"u bltween starting up from cold and when
Checking Oil Circulation-Twin Motlels-In the event of very low oil
pressure dev*eloping, or complete loss of oil- pressure, slacken- the nut a't
'irr" ,rii,t stae 6l &'ankcase irear oit pump, just to the rear of the rocker
oil feJd connection. If oit pumps ouC when motor is running' it indicates
tfre feed pump is functioning and tne fault maylce in the oil lin-e !,opauSe'
or in the'gau-ge. OiI line isbest cleared out with air pressure and testing
with anot[er oi1 gauge is the simplest method of determining whether or
not fault is with this unit.
oilreturningtotankisanindicationthattheoilfeedandleturnof
p"*p*- *u iunctloning, but it is not- a ^positive indication that supply
oil to the con-rod and right crankshafi bearings is adequate. Some oii
pr"=*t" reading is essential to assure adequate bearing lutrrication'
Rocker Box oil Feed-Twin Models-oil leakage is sometimes expe-

riencedatthefeedpipeunionstorockershaftsoncylinderhead.The
ieat<age developing in'tfris feed pipe should be quickly corrected as
sub-
stantLl loss oi ol1 ean occur very quickly due to the quicklypressure feed to
,o"tour.. Operation with oil ieakage at this point will result in
accumulation of burned on oil on cylinder head, which \f ill present a
Afticutt cleaning problem. Where leakage occurs that is not corrected l:y
tightening ttre rfnions, it is almost certainly due to a poor joint betrveen
orie of th"e short rocker feed pipes and banjo fitling, or centre union. It is
seldom possible to repair satiifactorily in position. Procedure for removing
rocker fied pipe is detailed on page 184.
Aleakyrockeroilpipeassemblyisbestreplacedwithanew-oneif
available. d"Air,rry soldeiling does no! give completely reliable results and
if a repair is to be done, silver soldering is recommended'
checking Rocker Box oil Feed-All Models-oil feed to rocker box
should be c[ecked occasionally, particularly if any squeaking de'elops
onthesinglemodels,slackentherightsiderockerboxdomenuts,prl'
oil line banjo unions sl1ghtly away from rocker box' Start motor and note
that oi1 from both unions. If not, remove lines and blow out There
"*"rg""smatl flow on the oil feed to rockers on sing]es' in com-
is a relative[r
parison to the Twin and tr'our motors.
Access to the rocker oit feed banjo unions on the Twin motors can
be obtained by removal o.f the tappet covers. After checking rocker oil
i.ea, note thal alt four banjo unions are securely tightened, also check
the centre feed union nut and the oil gauge union for tightness'
on the Four motors, oil feed union can be slackened at front of rocker
box; place a rag under this to catch oil that will be forced out u'hen
testing, before starting motor' Re-tighten union securely'
OilPressur+-193?-194?"SquareFour"Motors-Oilpressureata
maintained top gear speed of about 30 m'p'h' may vary between 20 and
60 lbs. The oil p"essur-" release valve and pressure adjustment is located
at the bottom of th" ti*irrg chain cover. Adjustment is made by slackenlng
ioar.""t and turning screw in to increase pressure on the bali release valve'
which will increase pressure, and turning out to reduce pressure'
LUBRICATION 169
After a fair amount of bearing clearance has developed, it may not be

n!.$itt-e to increase pressure beyond say 20 tbs. a+- B0 m.p.i. irigh
with the pressure rerease varve adju"sting screw, due to the t;;r speeo,
from the bearings being such that n6 o, iE being rereased via oilpr"ssure release
release va"Ive. When this condition is reached, ii.creasing it"
sure on the pressure rerease varve has no effect. tiru .p"iig p.u"_
A prJssure i'"""Lr"u ny
the oil release valve on this type of motor can only be achieved
the bearing condition is such -tiat all of the when
oil suppry cannot escape
through the bearings, and some is passec through tii6 "p""""""1
valve' Recommended setting on this pr"aa*.u release rerease
pressure to a maximum of 60 lbs. varve is to rimit
oil P[essure-T948-rgiz Fours-Lower oil pressure readings are eom-

mon to these rater model motors, due to trre shett type con-r"od tig-eno
bearings being fitted with stightly greater clearancd ihan the
rods on the earrier motors. wrren n-ew, a maximum oil pressure oannitte*
or sb-so rt".
when cold is common, dropping to 25_80 lbs. when hot.
After a few thousand miles have been eovered, it is not uncommon
- oil
for pressure to drop to 10-15 rbs. when hot. Even before bearing:
wear
has occurred to the extent ,""o"aiiio"l"f is-*a'rJorutery
-that bearing
necessary, oil pressure may almost completely disappear-when--motor is
hot' where oir pressure,rosi o^ccurs graouâtty over a considerabre
it is.generalry an indication of increised con"-rod and right crankcasem.eag.e,
bearing clearance. A good pressure reading when motor is cold plain
and an
.1t1os! complete loss of oii pressure whei motor is hot, is a furttrer
indication of this condition.
oil Pressure Rerease varve-1g49-1g82
in the right end of front crankshaft, readiiyFour Moders-This is rocated
accessibre when the hexagon
cap is unscrewed. Dirt on the baII valve leating o, ;;L--"i"*g
be the cause of reduced pressure. Valve can be cleaned " by removing """
cotter pin followed bv_spring and ball. wash off balr seatirig the
in an oit squirt can. trru witrr gasorine
i""Stii?"pr"""rr" retease spring is fu,,
and this can be stretched out to applroximately 7,,, to irr"r"u1"-p-""".rr"
"t"-""o"ra
at which release operates. Motor can be started up and run brie'iry
the, retease with
centre of valve_valve exposed. No p""""rr.u .rro"ia-'r"--i"r"""ii'i"il tn"
at below 40 lbs. on oil gauge. ff oil release at valve centre
is in evidence, at below 40 lbs. pr"..ri", iretching
it is decided to examine the reiease vaive assembty,springunit is aJvisafre. ft
screwed from crankshaft. valve can be compretely the can be un_
fitting, and when this is. done test varve ty blowing reassembted before
-trrai'i"
which should show no signs of leakage. ii trr""u i-" "g.;ilt;;[-seating,
due to dirt on ball seating,. rJahgl ,rot
ana, using a ut
brass rod and hammer, tap ran ""*or" "["ing "io.t-lurrg.tl
ag.ai;;a .Lihg. a few times. Reassemble
spring and cotter pin and test agairibeforelnsialling.
Th-e_ oil pump capacity on these motors is considered
, enable
to a normat oit pressure reading to b" ;;i;1;i";;,barelv sufficient
",loi""u"
of- 15,000 miles, with the standard initill crankshaft
;J"
bearing
wl"'..reconditioning', some improvement can be errectea -ry-a' iolu;r^""".
reduction of the standard crankshaft bearing clearances. sright
larg'er capacity oil pump would seem to be the solution. This utiimatety, a
a satisfactory would enable
oil pressure to be maintained even after a sright irr"""L." i'
bearing clearances has occurred as a result of normal wear.
crankcase Breathers-single Moders-one to two breathers
depending on the model. ThesJare fitted in elbow unions are used,
irito ilr"
""".-"a
170 ARIEL SERVICING
inside magneto chain cover. In these elbow unions there is a 1/4" steel
balt, These allow pressure to be released from crankcase but prevent
air from being drawn in on the up stroke of the piston. On the earlier
type, the outside ball valve seating is a small brass ring cut through to
allow air to escape, on the outside seating. On the later types, the cut
brass ring seatinS'has been dispensed with and replaced with a round
pin which allows better escape of crankcase pressure, and prevents loss
of ball.
Crankcaso Brea,ther, Squaro Four Model-A breather valve is not
used on these models. There is just a breather pipe. A breather valve is
not required due to the rather constant crankcase displacement, l'or
example, the diagonally opposite pistons No. 1 and No. 3 are going up
when No. 2 and No. 4 are coming down. Consequently, there is no material
cha4ge in crankcase displacement as on the single and twin motors. Any
slight compression leakage that escapes past the pistons and rings is
released through the breather pipe. In the 1937-1952 model X'ours, this
breather pipe is located in the back of the right timing cover crankcase
extension, directly below the magneto or generator. On 1983-1936 model
tr'ours, the breather pipe is located in the bottom of crankcase filler on
the left side of crankcase.
Crankcase Breather, Ttvin Model-This is located to the rear of
cylinder block base. This pressure release does not have a breather vaive,
Note that the spring and ball located below the crankcase breather stud
are for taking up end thrust in the oil pump drive shaft.
CLEARANCES AND SEITTINGS 71L
Section 2
CLEARANCBS AND SETTINGS
ARIUL 350 c.c. 500 c.c. 500 c.c.
Singles and Twins
o.H.v. o.H.v. o.H.v.
Singles Singles Twins
Piston Clearances-
Pistons finished cam-ground and
skirt tapered (.006,,-.010,, cam.)
Piltq1rg in Low Expansion Alloy
Solid Skirt
Bottom of skirt......... .004" .005"* .003r/2,,
Top of skirt............... .006,, .007"* .00512,,
Lower ring: lands.............. .072"
Second and top ring lands..... .014" .010,,
.015" .018" .074"
Split Skirt aqtl Therma,l-Slot pistons
Cam-Ground and Skirts
-tr'inisheal
Tapered (.010,,-.012,, cam.)
Bottom of skirt............. .003,, .003r/2,, .0021/z',
Top of skirl... -................. -......'.... _........... .004t/2,, .005" .004,,
Piston ring joint gap................. .015" .015-.018" .072"
Pisto-n pin in piston (very light tap
or hand push tit).......
Piston p-in1n rod (reamed-finger
push fit)....... .00!/2,, .00Y2" .00r/+,,
Piston pin in rod (honed-free fit)......... .001,, .001,, .00|a-.ggt7r"
Standard cylinder bore mm....... 72mm. 81.8 mm. 63 mm.
Standard Cylinder bore inches... 2.8346" 3.2205" 2.480,'
Exhaust valve tappet (motor cold).... .001" .001,, .002"*
Inlet valve tappet (motor cold)........... .002" .002,, .003,,{,
Exhaust valve stem in guide................. .004" .005" .004"
Valve seat an91e.............. 45 deg. 45 deg. 45 deg.
Ignition advance (on piston) L/2" 6Ae"
Breaker point gap......i Yz'5/e"
.072" .012" .072"
Spark plug,gap................. .015 -.018" .015 -.018" .015 -.018"
Con-rod big end c1earance...... .ggt1r-.007" .001/z-,007" .00t/z-.001"
Con-rod side clearance............................ .005 - .015,, .005 -.015" .020 -.030,,
Valve Tirnine'
fnlet opens b"efore T.D.C 18 deg. 18 deg. 15 deg.
fnlet closes after B.D.C.. 68 deg. 68 deg. 55 deg.
Exhaust opens before 8.D.C.................. 63 deg. 63 deg.
Exhaust closes after T.D.C.................... 46 deg.
23 deg. 23 deg. 20 deg.
Carburetor Settings
Bore size, standard models..................... 1r's"
714a" 15Aa"
Jet size, standard models......................_ 720 170
Jet size, standard models (with
]
740
I
air cleaner).. 110 160

Throttle valve, standard models........... 130
5/4 6/4 6/3
Bore size, Red Hunter models............... 7" Lr/e"
Jet size, Red Hunter models................... L"
150 200 160
Jet.size, Red Hunter models (with
air cleaner).. 740 180
Throttle valve, Red Hunter models.....-- 140 or 150
6/4 29/s 6/3
*v. rappet .clearances-Jwin Motor- 7g52 a,,d rater moders witrr
alve
"c" after eqgine number have different;;;; and require .005,, ffir
.008" Exhaust tappet clearance. rnlet and
Piston Clearances-Alloy cylinder b00 c.c. singles, .008,, bottom
.005 top (solid skirt). of skirt,
772 ARIEL SE,RVICING
CLEABANCES AND SEITINGS

600 c.c. 1000 c.c. 1000 e.c.
ARIEL o.H.c. o.I{.v. o.H.v.
"square F our" Models 1932-1936 1937-1948 1949-a952
Piston Clearanees-
Pistons cam-ground (.006-.010"
cam) and skirt taPered
Pistons in low exPansion alloY,
solid skitt .002"
Bottom of, skirt......... .0031/2" .003-37/2"
.005" .004"
Top of skirt................... .005"
.072"
Lower ring lands..... .010" .072"
.o74" .015" .015"
2nd and top ring lands..'..........'
Pistons-Repla,cement type Thermal-
slot skirt design .0a2" a'rn .gg].1,rr-.002"
Bottom of skirt......... .0O2a/2"
.004" .003"
Top of skirt............... .012"
Piston ri4g joint gap......... .... . .070-72" .012"
Piston pin in piston

(lighf tap or hand Push fit) .00}i,,
Pistoh pinln rod (reamed)....... .00\/2" .001,/+"
on 1-'l oor. ',
Piston pin in rod (honed)......... .001"
65 mm.
Standard cylinder bore, mm...... 56 mm. 65 mm.
2.2047" 2.559" 2.559"
Standard cylinder bore, inches............. .001"
Inlet valve tappet (motor cold)........... .001" 006"
.008" .001"
Exhaust valve tappet (motor cold)..... .002-3"
.002"
Inlet vaJve stem in guide....................... .002" .002"
.003" .003"
Exhaust valve stem in guide............... .003"
45 deg.
Valve seat angle.............. 45 deg. 45 deg.
1Aa"
Ignition advance (on pistons). -/1 Vte"
.072"
Breaker point gap...... .072" .o12"
.025"
Spark plug point gap...... .015-.018" .015-.018"
Con-rod big-end.......... .007/2" .001/+-a/2"
Con-rod big-end (shell type).. .0012-.00!" .oo1i -.ooL"
Valvo Timing-
Inlet opens before T.D.C 10 deg. 25 deg. 25 deg,
Inlet closes after B.D.C.. 50 deg. 55 deg. 55 deg.
Exhaust opens before B.D.C................. 55 deg. 60 deg. 60 deg.
Exhaust closes after T.D.C................... 15 20 20
Ariel Four Carburetor Settings

1932-1936 Ariel 600 c.c. Four 1937-38 Ariel 1000 c.c. Four, SCLEX
Choke tube
(Amal carburetot il,62" bore) Main jet 115x58
Main jet size No. 95 Auxiliary jet 055
Throttle valve 4/3 Jet cap 19x2x140
1939-52 Ariel 1000 c.c. Four, SOLEX
Choke tube 23
1939 Ariel 600 c.c. tr'our, SOLEX Main jet 720
Choke tube 20 Auxiliary jet 70
Main jet
Air correction jet 150
100x58 Sr-arter jet 100*
Auxiliary jet 55 Air jet 30*
Jet cap 19x2x140 x (Bi-Starter section)
I
I MOTOR SERVICING 173
Section B
MOIOR SEBVICING
(a) Ariel Single C,!,Iinder Motors

Note-Dismantling and reassembling of the Ariel Single
is covered in section 1 Type motors
.of chapte"
for purposes of illustrating geniral
i6;-tht" particular m*otor L'eing usea
to typicar British models.*A*fe* """o"diiio"irrg berowand servicing apprying
""4;;-;;;-rsted on service items
1p!tf."C details,
-especiaity t9 tlu .Ariel single- motors. X,or more comptete
servicing refer to Section 1 ot Cfrapter 16.
Left Hand rhreads-There. are only two
Ariel singre motor. These are the cranishaft reft hand threads on the
pi"i""-;; on the
right side of the right frywheer mainshaft, timing
and the right flywheel
mainshaft nut.
Timing Ge.ar Ma,rkings-The crankshaft pinion and cam gear
are marked for vatve teeth
The timing pinioi nut *"y ot.."[-It. g"u,
'1Tr".S.
tooth mark. rn this event, sracken off to-rocate mark and set gears in time;
then retighten nut securely.
Yalve Timing Note-The_opening and closing points
17L f.or single cylinder models aru frrltt, specified on page
a-lappet
tappets with this clearance before checkirig liming,clearance of .010,,. Set
reset to
timing has been checked. Note v-arve tiriing rigu""s correct crear-
":"sRed$!9"
a, Hunter sinEle_moders and standard o.H.v. ,ioa;r", isti-iiali"ied-are ror
Earlier standard o.ir.v. modets .rr""iJ-n" .J't Ls foltows ht.".
:_
fnlet valve opens B dqgrees after T.D,C.
fnlet valve closes 4Z degrees after B.D.C.
Exhaust valve opens 52 degrees before B.D.C.
Exhaust closes 12 degrees atter f.O.e.
Twin models-Timing fig.ures given for Twin models are
set at .002" clearance. with tappets
Crankcas+Timing Cover Oil
reguiar circular gaskJt between tir" Return Tube_In addition to the
and the cam gear cover,
there should, be fitted, an additionai""roL"u"ewasher
around the o* return.tube from the tipl; about .005,, thick
ensure airtightness in the oil return. to the timing-iover
"i"ir,""." to
.. first Purifier prLug in x,ight Fr},wheer-Referenceis made to this in

the -o.il section
of this chapter, "iubrication.,, Do not overtootr-cteaning
this when..overhauring._ This-prug is a very iig.rrt tt, and removar
onry. be attempted should
with a. gooa litting Trui box socket.
service conditions, operating in dust_iree areas or withrJnder favourabre
cleaner, removal and cleaning of this plug may only an efficient
-rt air
be ,ru"u"ar"y top
"li'"aitr""",
overhaur intervaJs of 8000-i0,000 miies."u"al"-
cleaning at 2000-mile intervals is .""ommurraed. "iru"or.tr"
gained through oil return filter prate op*r.rg inAccess io- pr"s'ir., tu
bottom of crankcase
or at top of crankcase when cliiinder'block is removed.
retighten this plug securely. Be sure to
L74 ARIEL SERVICING
I
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c€-'=.+
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ErAs
MOTOR SERVICING I75
crankoase Beanings-on the standard o.H.v. singles there are tw,o
ball bearings on the left ftywheel shaft and one balr biaring on the right
flyuvheel shaft. crankcases should be warmed for removal "ano repha-ng
of thes_e bearings. Replacement is recommended when there is noticeable
up and down movement in mainshafts when lifted, or when there is
distiact roughness in bearings rrhich is not eliminated. when cleaned anda
lubricated,
whenever there is evidence of considerable internal rusting, resulting
frgm y9to1 -being operated with insufficienily frequent ot cfranies, or
being left ldle for considerable period, with condensation diluted o-il, ball
bearings_ may have been by rust and should be carefully
examined. once bearing barls-_attacked
and raeei have been pitted Ly ht" r.
Sreatly shortened, and replacement should be made wtrite ".r.i,
motor is
dismantled.
on the Red Hunter models the bearings are the same dimensions
but a rolier bearing re_praces the large diive side barl bearing
roller aearing arso repraces the right sid.e ball bearing. NotJ: and a
Tnese
roller bearings have a lip on one slde of the outer racE, and must be
installed so that the "lipped" edge is towards the outside of each crankcase.
Bearing Removar-crankcases shourd be heated for bearing removal
and refitting. Boiling w-ater temperature provides sufficient -expansion
for easy removal and ref,itting. Note: Ttre oltside left crankcase Learing
is secured with a circlip which must be removed before replacement can
be made. Removal ot this circlip is most easily effected ty ot ro"s
nosed pliers with the ends ground dow,, sufficienily to fia"in".u
ahe-circlip
holes.
when installing teft crankcase bearings do not overrook fitting the
spacing collar between the inner races of the two reft crankcas" t".ri"g..
Mainshaft vgashers-The sta,dard equipment is a thick washer on
the left flyvuheel shaft between the-flywheel and bearing-'and a
-(drive)
thin washer on .the right fry'wheel shaft, in the same position. rt is- serdom
nec_es-sary to adjust the fly'lvheel end clearance. There stroutd be pereeptible
end float in the frpvheel assembly before the engine sprocket tana snoct
_assembry is fitted. No end play wiII be- feit itt", titiirrg u.".u
absorber
parts unless there is appreciable wear- in the left
Fitting the sprocket assembly pulIs the flyvrheel assembly
"rurt."""--t'u*"i.rg.
ugri*t trr"
left crankcase inner lrearing' race. The outer bearing. "p-i.- io.riuo i*
crankcase by the circlip. "i""
Con-Rod Big-End, Standarg Models-This is located
. the right end of with a peg fitted
to crankpin, registering: with a f.uy*uy--i" it? ,igirt
flywheel. No cage is used. when issembfng, s-"ar ciankpin with
grease to locate rollers. separation of flywheers from this thick
crankpin is easily effected after one nut is stackeneo ivpe ot
large wedge between the fr5rwheels near the crankpin. ririsby-l";iri"g
"operation is"
illustrated in chapter 16. whenever servicing ;';ig-;il HrJ"s, ru
sure to crean the oil purifier prug and wash oul ttre pissag.ewar- ti""uy
blow through from the right-frywheer shaft to make .,rrE trr-t'the
passageway is clear right through to the crankpin. oit
The_same crankpin and big_end bearing assembly is used
^_- c.c. Red Hunter
350 motors-,. except the peg ist
on the
of crankpin, registering _with keyr,vay in ttre rittea in irre arive sii.e
drive side try*'rru"i. -rir"""
ena
are peg: locating hores in both e^ds of these crankpins, and ii ih;;landard
type crankpin assembry is f,itted in the g5o e.c.'i"o-rr"rrt"",*.it i.
176 ARIEL SEITVICING
important that the peg be transferred to the left side hole. When correctly
fitted the oil feed hole with the chamfered opening 'will register with the
oil feed hole in the right flywheel.
500 c.o. Red Ilunter, Con-Rod Big-Eqtl Assembly-A caged type
ro1ler bearing assembly is used. Crankpin is peg located in the drive side
fiywheel. Crankpin is a straight fit in the flywheeis coming up against
shoulder. Method of separation is illustrated in Chapter 16. Separation of
these flywheeis by the "wedge" method is not recommended, as there is
possibility of distorting the flyrvheel holes. If suitable t'I" or t'U"
section steel supports are not available for supporting flywheels for
separating, as illustrated in Chapter 16, three wedges can be used
between ftywheels equalty spaced. If this method is adopted, care should
be taken to drive each wedge in progressively so that flywheel comes off
evenly. When one flynvheel is removed, the crankpin can easily be driven
out of the other flywheel. If a suitable socket is not availabie to fit
the crankpin nuts, these are best removed by punch' Properly used, a
punch will remove these nuts and tighten quite satisfactorily rvith very
slight damage to the nuts.
Cam Levers-Up to and including 1950, Single O.H.V. motors use
two side by side cam levers, each operating on its own cam. The 1951 and
later singlL cylinder motors have a modified cam gear arrangement. This
features a single cam of double the width previously used. The canl
levers (followers) are double the width at the cam bearing surface, and
are forked at the cam lever pivot end. This new design cam g'ear and
lever assembly can be fitted to the earlier model machines. trvhere
cam and lever replacement both are necessary, it is recommended that
the new type parts be fitted because the increased cam bearing area
wiII provide for greatly increased 1ife, particularly of the cam levers.
Pre-1950, some cases of premature cam levelwear were experienced on
the cam bearing surface. These parts should be carefully examined r'vhen
overhauling. Where there is no appreciable sign of wear on the cams
themselves, fitting cam levers of the original type is aJI that is
recommended.
Rocker Box tsolts, 1938-1952 Models-Note that the right side bolt
on each rocker box is slightly longer than the others and should be
refitted in these holes.
Compression Release Lever "4'd.justrnent-The operatlng lever is a
taper fit on the shaft that operates the exhaust rocker and should be
set to provide l,h-Vra cable slack. Adjust with exhaust valve closed. To
free lever from shaft taper, slacken the securing nut about tu-o turns and
give a sharp rap on end of shaft. Insert screw driver in end of shaft,
turn until it is felt that rocker is contacted. Move lever to give the
required cable slack, and retighten nut'
Valve Ta,ppet Adjustment-These are rather inaccessible and rv-hen
reassembling, adjustment should be made before refitting tank and before
fitting carburetor. When making adjustment with tank on, removal of
gas pipe and carburetor facilitate the job on the inlet tappet. Adjustnent
should be made w,ith piston on top of compression stroke. Adjust inlet
tappet so that rocker is free to slide sidet'ays but has no perceptible up
and down shake (approximately .001"). Exhaust tappet should have just
perceptible up and down shake (.002"). These clearances apply to O.H.V.
Single models only. Set w'ith raotor cold.
MOTOR SERVICING T77
Cylinder Head tloint-No cylinder head gasket is used on the 19b1

and earlier O.H.V. Ariel Single motors. Head joint 1eakage is very
seldom experienced on these moders and normalry trre onry
necessary are to ensure that the joint surfaces are clean when lrecautions
issembling,
and that the head borts are tightened evenly. rn rare cases where joint
leakage is experienced, the head can be carefully ,,lapped,, onto the
lYlinder block, using fine valve grinding compound ana rot-ating the head
back and forth. rn this operation extr-eme care shourd. be taken not to
rock the eylinder head.
1952 Singie O.H.V. motors use a cylinder head joint gasket. This
applies to 350 c.c. and 500 c.c. motors, with cast iron cylinder blocks
and cylinder heads. Note that the 500 c.c. model V.H.A. and V.C.H, Red
rrunter motors with alloy cylinder blocks and heads, do not use a head
gasket, either for 1952 or earlier.
Side Valve Motors, Head Gasket-A copper asbestos
joint gasket is used on all of these models. on this type itcylinder head
is important
that cylinder head bolts be tightened progressively, and retightene,h after
about 500 miles operation.
-hex.Magneto chain Atljustment-Magneto slides on base secured by three

head cap screws. These are rather inaccessible, but removal" of oil
pump lines, right footrest and hanger, improve accessibility. Box wrench
can he used on two right side screws, open end wrench on inside screw.
Tighten securely after providing a/+" slack midway between sprockets at
tightest part of chain.
Magneto Condensation Trouble-Refer to Section b-,,Ignition Timing,,
for notes on this subject.
Engine Sprocket Shock Absorber ,Assembly_On 1941 and earlier
Single modeis considerable trouble is experienced with the rapid wear on
the shock absorber sliding member cam surface and the sprocket cam
surface. When overhauling, condition of these parts shoulfl be examined.
The later type sprocket and shock absorber sliding member, as used on
the current models, will fit the earlier machines and fitting this new
assembly is strongly recommended. Note that the engine spiocket nuts
.are securely tightened with fold over lock washer in between.
tr'ootrests-tr'ootrests are a taper fit on hangers. Slacken nut and

strike footrest a heavy blow with hammer to free from taper. Note: before
fiitting inside front drive chaincase, left footrest hanger must first be
fitted as the shoulder on end is too large to enable it to be fitted through
,chaincase hole afterwards.
Preventing oil LeakageThe Arier singles can be kept practicaliy

completely oil tight by careful assembty and use of correct gasket sei.
'The pushrod tube oil seal rubbers are most important, and should
be
replaced on every top overhaul job. Make sure that the gasket retaining
.cups on the end of pushrod tubes are solid
",vith tubes. ff not, solder,
hraze or spot weld to tube.
Breather valves not working'properly will increase tendency towards
oil leakage at joints. Refer to
Section 1 of this chapter-,,Lu6rication.,,
Compression leakage past piston and rings will alio greaily increase
tendency towards oil leakage.
1?8 AR]EL SERVIEING
Cranksha,ft Tirning Gea,r Bemova,l-The Ariel puller should be used

if available. This geai is a straight press fit on sha;t with key. Avoict
damage to shaft end. when removlng this gear. Best policy is to slacken
ttre nut about two turns (left hand thread) before fitting puller, and leave
nut on shaft until gear starts to move. This will prevent tlle puller screw
from spreading thJ end of shaft and causing trouble with replacing the
nut. Ai an aitlrnative, a small shouldered plug should be placed in the
end of shaft to protect.
(b) Ariel Twin Motor
TOP OVERHAUL DISMANTLING
1. Remove exhaust pipes, carburetor, rocker box covers and spark

plugs.
2. Disconnect oil pipe
-oilfrom crankcase at central joint of rocker box
feed, disconneci gauge pipe. The rocker feed pipe assembly
connected Lo the four rocker boxes need not be removed'
3, I]nscrew the eight cylinder head securing nuts located betH'een
the second anal third fins of the cylinder block. unscrew these only
about 7/a". Next, lift the cylinder head off the cylinder block and
slip a flat wrench or piece of cardboard about t6" thick betrveen
the cylinder head and bloek to hold the cylinder head in a slightly
raised position. In this position the cylinder head stud nuts can be
completely removed.
4. R,emoving the Cylinder Flead-slacken off tappet adjusting screlvs
a few tuins. This will allow the pushrods to come up higher and
willsimplifyheadremoval'Asheadislifted,thefourpushrodsmust
be tifted alio and held up as far as possibie to clear the cyiinder
block. There is just sufficient clearance to enable the cylinder
head to be removed in the frame in this manner. When pushrods
are ciear of biock, tilt head forward and draw away to one slde'
It is advisable to mark the pushrods so they are replaced in their
original positions.
5. Cylinder Block Removal-tr'irst revolve crankshaft until the pistons
aie at the bottom of stroke. Then unscrew the eight base securing
nuts. When lifting off block, note that the tappet stem bases do
not catch on the crankcase.
Tappets-Tappets should not be removed unless necessary' They
ean be-iemoved irom guide by giving a pull sufficient to overcome the
resistance of the small steel eirclip fitted in the tappet stem lecess.
Note: The 1948-1949 motors used a two-piece tappet stem with a spring
in between, the purpose of this arrang'ement being to have the tappet
clearance take up in operation within the tappet guide, maintaining the
rockers in contact with the pushrods and valve ends, to give quieter
operation. The conventional type one-piece tappet stem eliminating this
spring arrang:ement has been used sinee 1950. The tappets should be
eiamined on the eam bearing surface and replaced if noticeably worn.
MOTOR SERVICING L79
rl, s0
CROSS SECTION OF ARIEL 500 TII'L\ ]IOTOR

A number of interesting constructional details are revealed in this Artel Twin cross section,
The split big-end type rods have replaceable bearing shells with rod bolt nuts on top,
permltting rod servicing from the top end. The spring loaded ba"U type oil pressure control
valve is located in screw plug in right end of crankshaft. Oil pump drive ls by worm on
lnlet camshaft.
180 ARIEL SERVICING
TWIN MOTOR PARTS EXAMINATION
_ Piston Rings-Remove top ring from each piston and check for gap
when squared up in the cylinder bore. If gap is less than .040,, refit and
do not disturb other rings. trf in excess or-trris amount, it is advisable
to replace the complete ring set. rt is important to scrape all carbon from
the bottom of the piston ring grooves. A broken sectioriof, old piston ring
is useful for this job. New rings should be checked tor gap, placing
squarely in the lower unworn end of cylinders. x'iie joints is-necessary
to provide .072" gap. Make sure that air carbon has been removed from
ring grooves so that rings seat down fully into grooves.
Pistons-Standard clearances are .0031/2,, bottom of skirt, .00b7/2,,
top of skirt on the thrust faces. Piston replacement is recommended when
skirt clearance measures in excess of, .00br/2,, bottom of skirt, and .00g,,
top of skirt, or when ring grooves are worn to give rings in excess of
.007" ring side clearance.
Cylinder Reboring-This is recommended when cylinder bore wear
at top end of ring travel exceeds .008,,. In some instances it may be
advisable to rebore with less wear if pistons are being replaced diie to
excessive piston skirt or ring grool'e wear. rn such cases where nelv
pistons are being fitted, if cylinders are'worn in excess of .004,,, reboring
is recommended to obtain maximum benefit from new pistons.
Con-Rotl Big-Entl Bearings-It is unlikely that any replacements lvill
be required until over 20,000 miles have been covered, unless an oil
shortage is experienced. IJnless oil pressure, when hot, at B0 m.p.h. in
high gear, is below 10-15 Ibs., it can be assumed that big-end bearings
are in satisfactory condition.
The con-rod big-ends are fitted with removable shells, and replacement
can be effected from the top end without dismantling crankcase, as the
big-end nuts are at the top. When servicing con-rod big-ends, it is
important to flush out crankshaft oil passageways, and measure the
crank throws with a micrometer. Standard dimension is 1.875,,. trtrhere
wear measures between.001" and .002,,, it is ad.visable to carefully dress
the con-rod big-end joint and shell joints to reduce clearance sIightl1.,
otherwise low oil pressure will be experienced, even with neu, standard
bearing shells. Big-end bolt nuts should be tightened to 2b ft. lbs. torque.
When new standard shells are fitted to an unworn crankshaft, big-end
will be perfectly free, but where con-rod big-end joint is surfaced to
reduce clearance slightly on a worn crankshaft throw, it is permissible to
fit with just slight drag.
.002" and, .010" undersize bearing shells are avaiiable. The .002,,
undersize she1ls are most suitable for crankshaft throlvs u,here rrear
between .001" and .002" is shown, and in such cases polishing throws with
fine emery cloth, revolving crankshaft in lathe, will usually pror.,ide a
satisfactory fit. Where wear is .003" or more, regrinding and fitting
.010" undersize shells is essential to give satisfactory oit pressure. tr or
this operation, crankshaft should be ground to 1.86b-1.86b5,i
Right Crankshaft Flain Boaring-Standard clearance is .0072,,_.001,,,
and replacement is recommended when clearance is in excess of .008,,.
TWIN MOTOR, CRANKCASE SERVICING

C,amsha,ft Driving Cha,in-Before removing camshaft chain and
sprockets, note the punch marking on the sprockets. Rotate the cran-kshaft
MOTOR SERVICING 181
until the dot on the cranksha^ft sprocket is on top and a dot on each
camshaft sprocket adjacent; the remaining dot on each camshaft sprocket
should be at the bottom, directly under the camshaft centre. Special
threaded extractors are available for removing the sprockets from shafts,
however, in plaee of these, ordinary claw type sprocket or gear pullers can
be used. Sprockets should be withdrawn progressively, a little at a time
on each sprocket, if only one puller is available, so that sprockets and
chains are drawn off, together.
Ma,gneto Remova,l-Slacken armature shajt nut. Irlote: After this has
been unwound a turn or two, resistance in nut will be felt, resulting from
the "withdrawal" shoulder on nut, coming into operation. Give wrench a
few sharp'wraps wir-h hammer and this wiII draw the automatic advanee
gear assembly off armature shaft taper. Note: It should not be attempted
io compietely unwind this nut until the magneto mounting stud nuts have
been siackened off a few turns, other"wise magneto gear will be forced
against rear camshaft sprocket. It is necessary to remove the magneto
securing stud nuts, and withdraw mag:neto before gear can be removed
from crankease. When complete dismantling is being done, it is generally
simpler to remove the magneto 8:ear and the magneto before withdrawing
the camshajt sprockets,
B,emoval of Cra,nkcase-This will normally only be necessary when it
is desired to service crankshaft or main bearings. Removal involves discon-
necting of oil lines, dismantling of clutch (see page 214), temoval of front
chainease, engine sprocket nut, and eng'ine frame plates.
Drive Side Cra,nksha,ft Eoller Bearing-The large proportions of this
bearing make replacement very seldom necessary. Replacement need. not
be considered unless there is noticeable up and down play in drive side
of, crankshaft. Outer race can be removed from crankcase by heating to
boiling water temperature, and the same for replacing. Inner race is a
very light press fit on crankshaft and old race can be started off by
driving a thin wedge between it and the crankshaft throw.
Right Cra,nkshaft Plain Bearing-Ileat crankcase to boiling water
temperature for removal or refitting this bearing' Note: These can be
supplied either .010" undersize to aliow for boring after insertion, and for
shaft regrinding, or supplied bored to give .002-.003" shaft clearance which,
allo'wing for eontraction on insertion, will give the correct fit when
installed. IJnless a special jig is available for boring bushing after
installing, it is recornmended that bushing be bored to give shaft .002-.003"
clearance before installing. If contraction on insertion should make
l:earing too tight a fit, it can be very lightiy honed, scraped or reamed
to give a free fit, without any perceptible shake. Attempting to hone or
ream the .010" undersize bearings to standard size after installing, is not
recommended.
Con-Rod Big-Entl Nuts-Due to the shallow depth of hexagon section
on these nuts it is essential that removal is only attempted with a ,good
fitting tubular box wrench or socket, otherwise corners may be taken off
nuts after which removal may only be possible with punch. The average
box wrench requires grinding down on the otttside due to the small clearance
between rod and nut.
Replacing Connecting Bod Bearing Shells-When this is being done
without dismantling the crankease, use a leng+-6 of bent strap iron to
hotd the bearing cap up against crankshaft while connecting rod is )oeing
lifted off. Generally it is better to eompletely dismantle motor when con-rod
bearing replacements are to be made. When this is done, the screw ptugs at
the end of each crankshaft throw should he unscrewed and the centre oil
782 ARIEL SERVICING
passageways completely cleaned out. After some mileage there will be a
considerable accumulation of dirt in these large passageways, and, this is
best removed with a knife, followed by washing witfr gasotine or solvent.
Finally' refit the crankshaft passageway plug screws, tigtrten securely, and
centre punch lock. use squirt oiler with solvent or ipply air prlssure
through from right crankshaft oil feed hole to make sure pdssageriays are
clear right through to big-end oil outlets.
When refitting con-rod big-end bearing cap note that mark on cap
corresponds with mark on rod so that cap is fitted the correct w.ay round.
P9 "9t mix up the bearing caps for the two rods. To avoid this,- always
slip the bearing cap onto rod after removal. Tighten con-rod big_end b -lt
nuts to 25 ft. lbs. torque.
crankshaft Entr pray-This is controlled by the right crankcase
bearing. End clearance should be .002-.004". Exceisive end-clearance will
cause slight loss of oil pressure, particularly if right crankshaft bearing
clearance is excessive. End clearance is adJusted by shims between the
right crankshaft end and the steel washer. on aJsembly, this is best
checked by installing the crankshaft into right crankcaie only, fitting
shims,'washer, crankshaft sprocket, and tightenlng up nut. Thicknlss gauge
can be used between outer end of right crankshaft btaring and crankshaft
lvasher.
TVYIN DIOTOR REASSEMBLY
_ Assembling is quite straight forward, but time wili rikery be saved

by reviewing the points risted berow before commencing reass6rnbly.
valve Timing-Have pistons at top of stroke. Locate camshafts so that
keyways are approximately 4b degrees outwards from vertical. Note: That
the sprocket with the smaller diameter gear attached. fits on the front
exhaust camshaft and the sproeket with the larger diameter gear fits on
the rear inlet camshaft. piace the shims and thrust vras-her on the
crankshaft, I'it the chain over_ the three sprockets with the markings as
detailed at top page 181. slide the sprockets on the shafts, engaging
the keys as this is done. Tap the sprockets on graduatly, then flt nuts
and hammer tighten. r'it the chain tensioner and Lo3ust the siiding block
to within la+" of the tensioner blade end and tighten in this positionf
cylinder Block Fitting-pistons are best loeated for cylinder biock
fitting with bottom of skirts resting: on crankcase base. Ldi,""er cyrinder
block over piston rings carefully, one at a time. trvhen cylindel ntock
has- passed over ring's, raise up piston and brock assembrli, then lori-er
cylinder down into position.
Gaskets-New cyiinder base and cylinder head gaskets should ahvays
be fitted. No jointing cornpound is required except 6n crankcase joint.
- TiminEF-It
-hefore is good policy to check the ignition and valve timing
fitting the cylinder head. rnlet valve tappets should just commence
to lift when pistons are Vrc" before top of str&e. Exhaust- varve tappets
should close fully when pistons are t/s,i do,wn from top of stroke.
_ rgnition
correct
Timing-Timing procedure is detailed in the next section.
timing is with breaker points just commencing to open with
MOTOIT. SERVICING 183
pistons 6/t{' before top of stroke, with the advance mechanism in the
advanced position. rn trre retarded position, breaker points should be
just separating at approximately top of stroke.
Refitting clylintter Hearl-Make sure that the joint faces are perfectly
clean. Locati gasket on cylinder head with thick grease. Before flitting
cylinder head, lirst of all check to make sure that the oil union thread
ai centre of rocker oil feed pipe has not become damaged during the
removal operation. Try threading on the oil gauge union nut. Locate the
cylinder head on bench with bottom side up. tr'ill the pushrod end cups
-itt stirt grease, and fit into position on rockers. Note that tappet adjust-
ing screws are slackened off so that pushrods enter as far as possible
into head.
Check the cylinder head studs by threading a nut on eaeh stud to
make sure threads are perfectty free; oil threads. Locate the cylinder stud
nuts between the second and third cylinder fins directly below stud holes.
Due to small amount of clearance between bloek and frame tube, pushrods
must be held up fully into head as instalied'
Replace cylinder head from right side of maehine. Locate cylinder
head siigfrtty to the front, with front pushrods clear of cylinder block.
Incline 1iead down slightly in front, and stide head in over block with rear
pushrods over cyiinders; hold pushrods up futly. when head is entered
iully into frame, slide back and tilt front upwards, noting that pushrods
are held up into position during this operation, when pushrods are centred
over holes in block, lower head.
Note-Before tightening down cylinder head, note that pushrods

engag'e with the rocker ball ends. If pushrods drop out of engag'ement
auiing the head fitting process, it may be found simpler to remove head,
replade stiff grease in pushrod ball ends, and repeat the attempt. Vr'here
difticulty is encountered with pushrods not clearing cylinder block, slacken
off the rocker adjustment screws fully if this has not already been done.
This will allow pushrods to come up higher. This is all that should be
necessary providing procedure detailed above is followed.
As an alternative, pushrods can be disengaged from roeker ball ends

and shoved further into head, but if this is done, after head is fitted, head
should be blocked up off cylinder, pushrods lowered and then engaged
with rocker ball ends before lowering head and tightening stud nuts'
After stud nuts have been started on but before tightening, it is
advisable to revolve motor and observe that all rockers operate, confirming
that pushrods are properly located'
Place a flat wrench or strip of cardboerd abollt y8" thick on top of
the cylinder block to hold the head up slightly while the nuts are started.
Two haeksaw blades will be found very useful for threading on nuts.
One blade can be used to holal up nuts, while the other blade is used to
turn. After nuts are screlued on a few turns, the wrench or cardboard
strip supporting head, should be removed, allowing the head to fit down
on gasket.
Before Tightening Cylinder Head Down Fully revolve motor and

observe that all valves operate to make sure that a pushrod has not
184 ARIEL SERVICING
!:rgpp"a out of place from one of the rocker ends during the cylinder heatl
fitting process.
tr'in_ally, tighten all nuts up progressively, working from the centre

outwards. Einal tightening should be to +O-tt. tfs] torque, using a
good fitting wrench. Head stud nuts should be retightened after a few
hundred miles of operation.
Ca,rburetor .foint-When refitting carburetor, replace the flange

gaskets on each side of the insulating btock.
Valve Ta,ppet rAdjustment-Note: on the early Ariel Twin models

an Allen key-t1pe wreneh is used. Tappet screws do not have the norrnal
lock nut, but have a pinch screw which must first be slackened. Note: On
these models it is most important that this pineh screw be very securely
tightened after adjusting. Later model motors do not use this piich screrv,
but have a locknut on top of the tappet screw, and use a lo-nger screw.
The longer tappet screws can be fitted to the earlier motors. where trouble
is experienced with tappet screws slackening off. where this is done, it is
desirable- to carefully square up the top end of rocker to provide a square
seating for the tappet screw locknut.
Note: On the 1948-1949 models, with the spring loaded tappets, it
is necessary to lift up on the rocker to compresJthJspring between the
two sections of the tappet, when checking clearance. Aiter-cylinder head
!1s- leen finalty tightened down, adjust tappets to give .00i,, intet and
.003" exhaust clearanee. Note: on 1g50 and Iater models, with the letter
"C" . ajter the engine number, a modiflied cam design is used which
requires .005" inlet and .008,, exhaust tappet clearance.
Crankshaft Drive Sitle Oil Seal-The early model Ariel Twin

machines were not fitted with an oil seal on the ieft cranksha.ft. A few
cases were experienced with engine oil working through to chain case, and
later models have a spring loaded rubber oil seal tittea. This oil seal
can be fitted to the earlier models and the correct position is on the
outside of the crankcase between the crankcase and en-gine sprocket.
Rocker Box Oil Feetl Pipe Remova,l-To remove this oil feed pipe
assembly, it is necessary to fiirst remove the four nuts that secure the
banjo unions to each rocker shaft on the inside of cylinder head rocker
boxes. Remove outside rocker shaft cap screws. Rocker shafts are most
easily wit-hdrawn by fitting a 5Aa"x26 thread bolt into the end of rocker
shaf_t, lsing a large washer against bolt head, and a tube spacer with
inside diameter slightly larger than rocker shaft, Tightening up this bolt
will withdraw the rocker shaft through to the outside of rreao. uftren
all rocker shafts are withdrawn approximately a/2,,, the rocker oil feed
pipe can be removed.
When trouble is experienced with leakage at the joints of this pipe,
replacement with a nerv assembly is recommended, or repair with silver
solder. Tt is not necessary to completely remove the rocker shafts or
rockers for normal servicing, and it is simpler to just remove the shafts
part way as described.
When reassembling, note that copper washers are fitted on either
side of the rocker pipe banjo fittings.
MOTOR SERVICING 185
(c) 193?-1952 Ariel l-000 c.c. Four Motor Servicing

AJthough all Ariel 1000 c.c. Square F'our Motors are of basically the
same design, there are two distinct types; the L937-1948 motors with
cast iron cylinder block and cylinder head, equipped with magneto ignition,
and the 7949-7952 motors with aluminum cylinder block and cylinder head,
equipped with coil ignition with automatic advance. Servicing details,
particularly with regards to elearances and top motor overhaul procedures
vary on these twr: types, and where servicing details differ on these motors,
they are dealt with under separate headings.
198?-1948 "SQUAR[} FOUR,', TOF OVERHAUL
Oil Leakage and Gaskets-Care in assembly and use of a complete

new gasket set will eliminate trouble with oil leakage. Most oil leakage
occurs past valve guides at joint between rocker box and cylinder head'
and results from deterioration of the synthetic rubber washers that fit
on top of valve guide shoulders under the va.lve spring bottom cups.
Note that when rocker box has been removed from head the €orrect
new jointing washers should be fitted between head and rocker box joint'
and valve guides smeared with jointing eompound before installing.
Valve guides can be driven out and driven in with a double diameter
drift.
Note that to detach the rocker box from the cylinder head the valve
guides must be driven out and the two inlet manifold securing stud nuts
on underside of head removed. When reassembling rocker box to head,
do not overlook secure tightening of these roeker box inlet manifold stud
nuts. It is advisable to centre punch lock these nuts to studs.
Cylinder Ilead Bemolra,l-Remove carburetor, rocker box lid, rocker
box oil feed., spark plugs, exhaust pipes and the 12 head securing bolts.
Note that the four centre head bolts are the extended bolts threaded on
top for the rocker box lid dome nuts. (See Ill. 51.)
Valves a,nd Rockers-Rocker shafts and rockers have to be removed
before removing valves and springs. Rocker shafts are easily withdrawn
f,rom the right side by removing hexagon cap s-crews and threading in a
iAu" 26 thread bolt into the thread.ed rocker shaft ends; grasp with pliers
and pull out. At this stage it is good policy to remove rockers, rocker
spacer springs and shim washers, assembling these parts onto shafts in
original order for convenience when reassembling. (one of the centre head
bolls can be used for rocker shaft withdrawing.) Note that the rocker
shaft shim washers are only used where rockers bear up against the
aluminum rocker box and are not used on the right side against the cap
screws supporting shafts.
Until pushrods are withdrawn, cylinder head should be supported on
bench on iwo short tengths of 2x4 boards to prevent damage to lower
ends of pushrods'which extend belorv head surface.
Withdraw pushrods and lay out in original order on bench' Note that
although all puihrods and rocker shajts are interchangeable, it is desirable
to refii in the original positions, and care should be taken when laying
out these parts after dismantling so they can be refitted as originally
located.
16t) ARIEL SERVICING
:rri
*=;l
193?-1948 ARIEL 1OOO

ffi IiI. 51
tr
If
{xj
C.C. ..SQUAR,E FOUB" IVITII CYLINDER IIE.{D RE]IO\-ED
Both cyltnder head and block can easily be removed for a ,,Top Oyerhaul,, s,ithout remoral
of the tank, but with tank removed accessibility ls improveil. The rear cylinder base njis
are rather lnaccessible, but can be removed and retightened without disturbiog ille magneio
by use of a long heavy screwdriver as a punch and hammer, Il'hen refitting cylinder head
gaskets, make sure *rey are fitted the right way round so that they do n;t project into
combustion chambers. The four long 6/r6t' head bolts fit. through the rocker b;x, the t$-o
long 96" bolts fit ln the centre rear head bolt troles to elear tntake manlford. fighten
cylinder head bolts progressively, working from the centre to outside botts. Final tightening
pressures 40-45-ft. rbs. on four centre bolts through rocker boxes aual bo-ft.
lbs: on ail
outsiale bolts. These pressures appry to cast rron heaat 1948 and earlrer moarers onl!-.
MOTOR SERVICING 18?
valve stem Dnd caps-These should be replaced if deeply pitted, other-

wise accurate tappet adjustment will be difficult to obtain'
Valvo Guides-These should be replaced if more than '004" intake
and more than .006" exhaust valve stem clearance is present' The best
*"tir"A ot testing is by trying .002" oversize, 6Aa" pilot stem- fromguides,
valve
reseating equiprient. it tfiis-stem can be easily entered. into
be made. When valve guides are being replaced,
""pf"""ri""t'siould
ro"k"r boxes should be removed from head, and new joint gaskets installed.
If there has been any amount of oil leakage, the burned on oil deposit
on cytinder head shouid be removed by soaking in a hot caustic soda and
watdr solution for two or three hours. Note: The aluminum rocker box
must be removed. before submerging head into this solution. This method
can only be used on cast iron cylinder heads. see notes under heading
.Oil Leikage and Gaskets" on p'age 185 for details on valve guide and
rocker box refitting.
V,alves-Note the valves are numbered as follows: With cylinder head
upside down and exhaust ports facing the operator, front row are 1,2,3' 4
to left, and back row 5,6,7, g, fuft to right. Inlet valves are identified
tire stem undercut behind head. These are the 4 inside valves numbers
"ight
Oi7
zi a, a and 7. Although the inlet valves can be interchange<l with one
another, and the exhaust valves are also interchangeable amongst
themselves, under no circumstances should inlet valves be used in place
of exhaust valves.
Valve Springs-It is good policy to replace complete set o-n. every
top overhaul iob. wtren reassembling valves, smear stem split cone
uridercuts with thick grease, to facititate fitting split cones.l'{ote that new
synthetic rubber washu.s are fitted under the valve spring bottom collars.
ValveSpringCompressing-IfthespecialArielF.ourvalvespring
compressor i-s noI avaitable, other types can be used in conjunction with a
r/2" wide 1" deep. Split
1tyr,; leng1h of a/2" or B/+" pipe, slotted through
be easily placed inlo position by sticking to something like a
"o-rr".
magneto file with thick cup grease.
"u"r,point
Be sure to refit valve stem end caps before replacing rocker shafts
and rockers.
"need Block
cylinder and Pistons-It is inadvisable to disturb cylinder block
until for piston and ring attention is indicated by excessive oil
consumption, losi of compression, piston slap or for bottom end inspection.
cyliniler Block Removal-The two rear cylinder block base nuts are
rather inaccessible with the magneto in position, but can be-removed by
,ra" oi , long punch, or a long heavy screw driver can be used as a punch
to start theie nuts moving. A hacksaw blade is very useful forpositioned
winding
these nuts off after they have been loosened. Pistons should be
so that they are all appioximately level, and then cylinder block liftetl of,f.
If magnetdis to be overhauled oi complete motor dismantlingforundertaken,
unwinding
magleto first. A hacksaw blade will be found useful
""*or""
these nuts once loosened, also for refitting on assembling'
Pistons a,nd Rings-Reboring and oversize pistons are advisable if
cylinder wear exceedJ.008", measured at the top end of ring travel'
Piston replacement is recommended if skirt "'uear or collapse has
occurred suffiiient to increase skirt clearance .002"-.003" or more over
standard, or if ring g:rooves are worn to give a ring side clearance in
t
excess of .007".
I
188 ARIEL,SERVICING
_-__
Piston ring replacement is advisable if ring joint gap exceeds .040,,.
when replacing piston rings, it is most importanl 1o crein-all carbon from
bottom of ring grooves and also to check- to make certain that the nerv
piston rings go down below the level of the piston ,,lands.,, The ring
g.rooves in these pistons are comparatively shailow and
will not allorv for
the fitting of rings of greater than stindard radiar thickness without
deepening. rf rings do not fit down beiow rever of iands after grooves have
been cleaned out, shalower rings should be obtained, or the iing grooves
deepened as necessary. see page 772 for crearance data on varioui tlpes
of pistons for Ariel tr our motors.
Cylinder and Piston Numbering-These are number 7, 2, B, and, 4
looking down on block as viewed from saddle, and going around.clockrvise,
starting with right front as No. 1.
Cylinder Block Befitting-Refer to iflustration No. E2 and accom_
panying notes, giving details on cyrinder block replacement. Four piston
ring compressor clips, if availabte, of suitable size can be used to
advantage on this operation.
Iu. 52
IIETIIOD Or' REPLI\CrNG CYLINDER BLOCIT ON 1000 c.c. ITODELS
Obtain two wood or metal strips ap-proximatety 9,, long by 7/16,, d,eep by %,' wide. p..:a:e
the cranks until au the pistons stmd level with one ano-trrei jriit atoie i.ire'iop oi1-raruca.".
J{ow t?kg one of the strips and sride this_arong ttre-top or the crankcase tetween the ci'r:ria:
b-aso studs and the two pistons on one side. Tne cut_jway sides of the pision ittr'f-]r.: g.re.
the necessary ctearance. Repeat with the other strip
four- pistons are just resting on the two strips andsnare the other twd tiston; ;nd ron r:e
held up"lgnf io tnai-*th" b:.",
c-an be lowe.red into position. strips of wooa
the short skirt type pistons. 7u,,'irricii, r;; *ioe inJrirol.'r..-"0'tJ. .ilpo-,=E
Pistons should be first fitted to rods Eithout piston rings, place the piston roca::.s si:::s
illfltrated and fit cyrinder brock ouer uaie^plsions to tocare pjstons in *a::g:-:.:i-:'i::':.
9y.1ilg:1,-b9I:1. Remove c:/tinder -on
btock. fit rings iii piitr,., .'LJi"i- j":"i. i.lc.,. .:. -.,
rrr orocK over ptstOns
- and rjngs as illustrated. This jOb is best handled b... i: _.r_...._..-
fit1.ing. block over one rjns ar a rime on eicn pl;;:--T;k"";"".""i"-iiJ":j'.ii:'..1"..;.:
getting trapped.
. . Iilton Skirt Length-Two lengths of piston skirts ha'e been used on

Ariel x'our motors. Either rength can be used on any of these models.
currently the standard compreision pistons are beingi proc,ced onr' in
short skirt design, and the higf, cor-np"ession pistons L.. l.i.rg p.oOir."J
in long skirt type.
t"
Piston Pin Lock Rings-Before fitting cylinder block note that rock
rings are installed and fi1 right dow,n into grooves. Fit ne\\' lock rings if
available, otherwise, if old lock rings are weak or bent, stretch sIig1il1-
to increase tension and straighten by use of two pliers.
cylinder He.ad Refitting-rt is good policy to first check the ignition
timing before refitting head as if any adjustment is necessary it is"much
more convenient to measure the advance on piston movement w.ith the
head removed. See notes under ,,fgnition Timing,,, page 209. Standard
setting is rie" advance.
MOTOR SERVICING
Fit the four centre and two centre rear head bolts with washers in
place into head on the bench, unless tank is off. New head gaskets should
be fitted if available. Note these are fitted correctly to register with the
combustion chamber shape. These are best stuck to cylinder head with
grease.
Tighten all bolts a few threads to locate gaskets, then tighten do"vn
the four corner bolts progressively to bring head just down onto gasket;
take up the slack in all other bolts and then progressively tighten down all
bolts a little at a time, working from the centre outwards. tr'inal tightening
should be 50 lbs. torque on all outside bolt-s and 40-45 lbs. on the f,our
inside boLts.
Tappets-Set to .006" intake and .008" exhaust. Note that the four
outside valves are exhaust and the four inside are intake. Set with
motor cold and make sure the valves are fully closed when adjusting.
After reassembly, valves should be checked and re-adjusted if necessary
after a short period of opera.tion, as first setting may have altered due
to bedding down of valve seats, and compression of head gasket. Cylinder
head bolts should be retightened after a few hundred miles prior to the
final tappet adjustment being effected'
193?-1948 "SQUARE I.OUE" CRANr{CASE SERVTCTNG
Crankcase dismantling will not normally be considered until bearing

replacements are necessary. The frirst indication of this usually is a
substantial loss in oil pressure. The 1937-1947 motors were fitted with
con-rods with the babbitt directly on the aluminum rod. These were
originally fitted with .000"-.007/2" clearance, resulting in noticeable con-rod
big-end drag when cold. Oil pressure on these rods is usually well
maintained for upwards of 30,000 miles, except in instances where the
babbitt breaks away from the rod. When this occurs traces of babbitt
will usually be found in the vicinity of the crankcase return oil filter
screen when draining crankcase, and very low oil pressure 'will develop.
(See notes under Section 1 of this chapter-"Lubrication.")
1948 and later models have shell type con-rod big-end bearings and
due to slightly greater bearing clearance allowed initially, do have lower
initial pressure g'aug'e readings, and show loss of oil pressure from wear at
lower mileages. (See notes under Section 1 of this chapter-"Lubrication'")
Loss o( oil pressure, heavy exhaust smoking and oiling of plugs are
common symptoms of babbitt having broken away from big-ends on 1947
and earlier type rods.
Con-Rods-Where there is no sign of babbitt eracking on the 1947
and earlier type rods, slightly excessive con-rod big-end clearance, up to
.002", car. be taken care of quite satisfactorily by carefully surfacing the
con-rod big-end joint. These beaiings should be fitted up so that there is
quite perceptible drag 'when cold. St-andard crankshaft throw diameter is
7.375", and where possible, throws should be measured with a micrometer.
Reasonably satisfactory results can be obtained where throws are not
worn below 1.373" by poiishing ttrrows in a lathe with fine emery cloth
and surfacing: con-rod big-end joints as necessary to give a fairly snug fit.
fn instances where babbitt is cra.cking away from the rods, or \Mhere
cranksha^fts are to be reground undersize, it is recommended that the
original type rods be discarded in favor of the new type with bearing shells.
Note: The big-ends of the new type rods are of heavier section and it is
190 ARIEL SERVICING
not practicable to attempt to modify the earlier tl4)e rods to accommodate
tne new type shells. Bearing shells for the new type rods are available in
.002" and .010" undersize, suitable for a shaft measurement of 1.BTB,,
and 1.365" respectively. To ensure best possible maintenance of oil
pressure, lt is advisable to fit rods individually, surfacing big-end joint
lightly on fine emery cloth on a level surface uniil there is just percepiibie
drag when assembled and nuts tightened up to 2b ft, lbs. torque.
Counterweight Clearance With New Type Con-Rods-The siightly
larger outside dimensions of the con-rod big-end necessitates increasing the
chamfer on the counterweights to provide big-end clearance.
Cranksha,ft Oilways-When dismantled, the crankshaft drilled oilway
screw plugs should be removed, Aceumulation of sediment at end of
oilw'ays especially on left side, should be removed with a lYo+,, drill. Refit
plugs and tighten securely. Centre punch lock screws. Test passageways
by air pressure or squirting through gasoline or solvent.
Timing Chain Fibre Buffer Strip-a worn timing chain fibre buffer
strip is of+"en the cause of a slapping noise. This strip is secured to top
of crankcase timing chain housing by three aluminum rivets. These can
be located, if not visible, by slight filing or rubbing top of crankease
timing case with emery cloth. If this strip is to be replaced, it is best
done before crankcases are assembled, or at least before cylinder block
is fitted. Rivet ends should be drilled to a slight countersink, Rivets can
then be punched out. Be sure that new rivets are tapped right up into
place and the heads well supported when rivetting over. To restore smooth
appearance to top edge of timing case, dress dow$ with file and emery
cloth.
Return Oil Filter-Fibre Clogging-In cases of extreme lvear on
fibre rubbing strip, fibre shreds sometimes accumulate in crankcase rn
sufficient volume to choke return filter screen and cause over oiling.
E requent remova^l of return filter, washing and replacing is all that can be
done until overhauling and replacing fibre strip. Rapid fibre strip u-ear Is
sometimes due to a badly worn timing chain or weak tensioner.
CRANKCASE DISIUANTLTNG ALL L000 c.c. T.OURS
Camshaft Sprocket Nut-This is left hand thread. Both camshaft and

crankcase sprockets are on straight shafts with key, and the sprockets are
generally easily withdrawn without pulers after nuts are removed.
Magneto sprocket is a plain taper fit on armature shaft, arrd the special
threaded extractor that comes with the tool kit should be used for re-
moval. After sprockets and timing chain are removed, remove the r.ight
front crankshaft bearing nut and the two right crankshaft thrust u-ashers,
when removing the crankcase securing bolts, do no overlook the trvo
bolts located in the centre and top of crankcase. Right crankcase hatf
can now be withdrawn.
Right Crankshaft Plain Bearings-Replacement is not necessary
until clearance exceeds .008,,. Ho.wever, if motor is dismaniled, it is wise
to replace if clearance is in excess of .002,,. To remove, warm case, remove
grub locating screw entering from bottom side of each bearing housing,
(1937-1948 only) and drift out. New bearings are available .010,rundersize
MOTOR, SERVICING 191
to allow for shaft regrinding where necessary, or for a boring operation

after installing, or they can be obtained bored standard size plus an allow-
ance for contiaction on insertion. Generally, this type is most suitable.
Note: where crankshaft is being reground, or where undersize bore bearings
only are available, recommended procedure is to bore out the new bearings
in i lattre to provide .0021/2" shaft clearance. The contraction on insertion
will close clearance up to the required ,ggt7r"-.007". If greater contraction
oecurs, light honing or scraping can be undertaken to provide a free fit
without any perceptible shake. Note on 1937-1948 models that new bushings
should te AAueO wit]nry64" drill to a depth of about 1/8tt't}rtougr:. the grub
screw hole at the bottom of each crankcase bearing boss, to accommodate
the grub screw. Note that before new bearings are installed crankcase
should be heated to at least boiling water temperature, ahd bearings located
so that the oil feed holes are horizontal and in line with the oil feed
passag:eway.
Crankshaft Coupling Gears and Drive Side Bearings-Coupling gears

are a press fit onto straight keyed. shafts and have threaded hubs to
accommodate the special Ariel gear pullers available for this job. When
it is necessary to withdraw the crankshafts from the left crankcase for
crankshaft servicing, it is most advisable to use these special scre'w type
pullers. If not available, a screw type puller similar to the factory puilers
can be made up of sidrilar design to the magneto sprocket puller that
comes in the tool kit, on a larger scale. Jaw type pullers cannot be used
very satisfactorily due to lack of gearcase elearance. It is most inadvisable
to attempt to press out the crankshafts by supporting the crankcase in
a press. This will almost certainly result in damage to crankcase.
Roller Bearing Replacements-Roller bearing replacements should be
made if there is perceptibte up and down shake. Slight increase in bearing
clearance will increase coupling gear noise, and result in a noticeable
knock when accelerating:. Outer races are easily removed by heating
crankcase to boiling water temperature. fnner races can be removed
by driving a thin wedge between bearing race and crankshaft web. Note
that the left (outside) rear crankshaft roller bearing inner race is .001"
smaller bore tha"n the inside bearings, and therefore, should be replaced in
outer gear cover on removal to avoid mixing with the two inside bearings.
Right Siile Beraring End Clearanae-Do not overlook fitting the bearing
oil seal thrust washers on the outside of both right side crankshaft bearings.
It is not essential to check on the crankshaft end clearance on the
right crankcase bearings, but where it is desired to maintain the best
possible oiI pressure, clearance between the bearing ends and thrust
washers should be kept to within ,002"-.004". This clearance is adjusted
by means of shims between crankshaft and bearing thrust washer on the
outside. Test for clearance should be made after the shaft nut has been
fully tightened.
Right Front Cranksha.ft Bearing Oap and Oil Drain Cap Nuts-Care
should be taken not to overtighten these nuts as a very short thread is
used and they are very easily stripped. On 1937-1948 models the bottom
crankcase oil drain and return filter retaining nut is vulnerable to fracture
from striking rock outcrops on rough roads, and fitting of crankcase under-
shield is advisable to protect this.
792 ARIEL SERVICING
Ill. 53
TIIE ARIEL ['OUR, CNANXSHAI'T COLTPLING GEAES t

These need not be removed except for reptacement of drive side crankshaft or cranhshaft
seryicing. special Arier tools are avairabre for removing and replacement of these gears.
Note
that gears must be timed as indicated by gear tooth marking when assembling.
Iil. 54
ARIEL FOUR IIAL\,E TIIIING, 1937-1952 }IODELS

To obtain correct camshaft val./e timing, set No. 1 pistcn (the
centre, fit charn and sprockets so that the two holes m
riBht front) on top dead
tt e camslar-t .n.;;;;, iire iip ,oiti,
the mark on the driving sprocket on crankshaft and the crankshaft centre.
MOTOR SERVICING 193
Timing-Note that crankshaft timing chain sprocket has three

ke5rways to enable slight variation in timing setting. See illustration 54
for standard setting. Valve timing is:
Inlet vaive opens %0" or 25 deg. before T.D.C.
Inlet valve closes %" or 55 deg. a.fter B'D.C.
Exhaust valve opens a%2" or 60 deg. before B.D.C'
Exhaust valve closes 1/s" or 20 deg' after T.D.C.
Note that crankshaft and camshaft sprocket nuts are securely
tightened. (Camshaft nut is left hand thread.)
Refitting Crankshaft Coupling Gea,rs--Care should be taken that gear
keyways are exactly tined up with shaJt keys before starting pressing
gears onto shaft. Note also that gears are fitted with the timing marks
as shown on illustration 53 registering. This is essential to provide the
exact 180' interval between front and rear crankshaft throws. Bevelling
the leading corners of the shaft keys stightly will assist starting of gears
onto shafts. If pressed on slightly out of alignment with keys, gears may
cut a metal shaving off keys that witt pile up between gear and bearing
shoulder preventing gear pulling up squarely, and permi+-ting backlash
of gears on shafts to develoP.
CRANI(CASE SERVICINGI_1949-1952 "['OIJRS"
The crankcase servicing details already listed are applicable to the
1949-1952 models, with a few exceptions as below:
Timing Chain Tensione" Spring Stop Atljustment-This stop replaces
the timing chain fibre rubbing strip used on earlier models. ft should be
adjusted at 5000-mile intervals. Ot o* t/an" space between the stop and
back of tensioner blade. When this adjustmeht is beiqg made, note that
the chain between the generator, camshaft and the engine sprockets is
tight.
Crankshaft Drive Side Bearing OiI SeaI-A spring loaded rubber oil
seal is fitted on the outside hub of the front crankshaft coupling gear, llp
against the inside edge of the outside roller bearing. This prevents motor
oil leaking from the coupling gear case through to primary chain case. This
oil seal can be fitted to all earlier 1000 c.c. I'our motors.
Con-Rods-The shell type con-rod big-end bearings came into use on
1948 motors and servicing recommend.ations are listed under the heading
"1937-1948 Square Four Crankcase Servicing."
Alirrtr, 1000 'c.c. CYLINDER HEAD SERVICING

1949-1952
These models, particularly the 1949 and the 1950 models have
presented considerably more of a service problem than the earlier motors
with cast iron cylinder heads and block.
Cylinder Head Stutl Thread Stripping-The early 1949 motors lnad Ya"
diameter head studs. Considerable trouble has been experienced. with the
stud threads pulling out of the aluminum, particularly in the head.
During: 1949 the diameter of the studs, both in the head and block'
was changed to /ta", The motors produced with 5/ra" diameter studs have the
motor number prefixed with the letter "X." A few of the early 1949 motors
are still in use with the r/+" head studs, and where cylinder head gasket
trouble occurs, usually caused by one or more of the outside cylinder head
studs pulling out of the head, or on the first top overhaul, it is advisable
to change to larger diameter studs.
794 ARIEL SERVICING
g
t,
:a 'E
a
g a
B
):
)€,
EI
ET
fl
u ffi
ltil
@CI
[@o@
I949-L952 AR,IDL r.OUE INTDENAT- PAATS LAYOUT

Tho layout of internal parts shown ln thls llustration ls geDerally applicable
1000 c.c. !'our motors. The sheu-type con-rod big-end bearingg
to aU the
were fitteal
motors. The heavier type sprocket shock absorber assembly shom cameto 194g and tater
1949 moalels md ca.a be fttted to all earller 10OO c.c. models.
into use on tJ]e
MOTOR SERVICING 195
fr' ffi ffi ffi
-&
IT. 56
1949-1952 AE,IEL FOUR CEANKCASES AND CYLTNDEB A.SSEMBLIES

This illustratiol shows the crankcases, cylinder block, cylinder head and the general
of erilkcase parts on the 1949-1952 !'our motors. The generar crankcase layout Iayout
earlier 1000 c'c' motors is similar except for minor differences in the oil on the
retum screen md
timing chain tensioner details.
196 ARIEL SERVICING
During 1950 a double diameter stud was put into use: %" diameter
where fitting into the cylinder head and. block and reduced to %e" diameter
at the nut end, Where trouble is experienced with the studs stripping on
the early 1949 type witln l/e" studs or the later 1949 and 1950 types with %e"
studs,it is recommended that the later 3/Bt' type studs be installed. Procedure t
for this operation is detailed on pages 198-199. This should be most i

carefully followed.
Cylinder Head Remova,l-Removal of tank improves aceessibility,
although it is not essential. Proceed as follo'"tls:
1. Remove rocker box lids, rocker box oil feed connection, carburetor,
spark plugs and exhaust pipes.
2. IJnscrew the rocker cover securing studs from cylinder head' These
can easily be unscrewed by locking two nuts together or by gripping
with pliers below thread. Removal of these studs gives useful extra
clearance between head and frame tube.
3. tlnscrew the four centre head sleeve nuts that fit down into rocker
box; these are most easily handled with a tubular box wrench, the
four stud nuts directly below the rocker boxes at centre off head at
front and rear; these are best undone by a IAe" "flexi-box" wrench,
and the 12 outside stud nuts located between the cylinder block fins.
Cylinder Heail Sticking to Block-Cases are experienced where
cylinder head is difficult to remove, particularly where a stud replacement
job has been done and stight misalignment of studs with holes exists.
In such cases, the best method of removing is to replace spark plugs and
operate kickstarter, compression pressure will help to free. Once head has
lifted free from joint slightly, head removal can be assisted by careful
use of a block of wood and hammer, applying pressure under lorver
cylinder head fin and exhaust ports. It is important to work around the
head progressively when removing in this manner.
Cylinder Blosk Remova,l-This is quite straight forward. Note there
are 12 eylinder base nuts as compared to eight on the earlier models.
Note on the 1949 models a 2-piece tappet was used with a spring in
between the upper and Iower sections. Although the lower section of tappet
is secured in the tappet guide by an internal circlip, the upper seetion of
tappet and spring are free to drop out if cylinder block is turned over
on the bench. Care, therefore, should be taken not to lose the top end of
tappets or springs. Note. 1950 and later models have a one-piece tappet.
Rocker and Valve Bemoval-Note the valves can be sen'iced rvithout
removal of the rockers or rocker shafts. Where cylinder head joint surface
or stud servicing is to be undertaken, however, it is advisable to strip
the head completely of valves and rockers. To remove rocker shafts
slacken the four rocker shaft outside nuts one or two turns and give
light rap with hammer. The slotted ralasher between the rocker shaft and
inside of rocker box can then be pried out and rocker shafts withdravrn'
As an alternative to withdrawing rocker shafts through to the outside,
they can be "drifted" directly through, starting at one side and drifting
right through. Where rocker shafts do not move easily, warm head.
CYLINDER HEAD JOINT GASI{ET "BLOWING"_1949-1950 F'OURS

There has been a lot o,f cylinder head gasket trouble with these models,
resulting from a combination of causes. On the initial 1949 models t}.e Y+"
diameter studs with the short thread length of only a/2", did not permit
MOTOR SERVICING 797
adequate tightening without dangerof stripping, and once threads stripped

out of head at one stud, a blown gasket forl-owed almost immediatuty. rrr"""
was_ insufficient depth of metaf in the cylinder head casting in" certain
sections in the area of the cylinder head joint. The ffiti"a to the
"r*u
cylinder_ block casting, allowing for a certain amount ot .,fowing,, between
the head studs, particularly at the outside edge.
_ The cylinder head gasket and stud trouble was relieved slighily
during the 1949 season, when the manufacturers introdlrced tfie %0,, stud
" /s"
Ftl,-the thread length, This reduced tendency towards stripped ihreads
in aluminum to a, considerable extent, but by ,,o *"u,rr" overcame
the troubte. Subsequenily, in 1950 heat treiting of ihe alloy .u.tirri"
commenced and this increased the tensile strength consid6rabry, *u"
1950 the castings were modified srighily to increase the amouni
iate in
in the area of the stud. bosses, and a double diameter stua was of metal
prt irrto
use-7a" diameter where fitting into the aluminum with a i,i-tnr.ad,
length, these studs being reduced to a 6aa,, diameter at the nul end.
a result of these modifications-head joint gasket troubre has been greattyAs
reduced and a fair standard of joint retaEility has been ;;hie;;;'on
1951-1952 models. the
. Proper and
importance,
tightening of the cyrinder head studs is of the utmost
improper tightening has been responsible for adding to
the gasket trouble on the eariy modeis, and it is gerierally the cause where
gasket failure occurs on the 10b1_1982 models.
cylinder rread stud rightening order-Reference should be made to

rllustration 57. The studs are numbered in the order in which irrey-snouta
be finally tightened. Manufacturers recommend that nuts be tigh"tened in
two stages; first, tighten alr nuts progressivery until the neaf, is-seateo
down on gasket, then finalry to tighten nuts fuliy in the order srrown. tt is
most advisable to retighten the cylinder head nuis after the first run when
motor is eooled, preferably within the first 2b miles. Another tigrriening
should be effected within 500 mites. After this, no further iiEt teni"E
shguld be necessary, but it is always advisable
_
to check head nuf;s before
adjusting tappets. whenever these are checked for tightness thev should
be done in the order ilrustrated. Nuts shoutd be tigh-tened to--id it. rn".
torque. Note: Less pressure must be used if the eailier smalrer aiameter
studs are still in use; 20-2b ft. rbs. on vt" and, B0 ft. rbs. ort xuli stua
diameter in the aluminum.
_ Exa,rnining Cylinder Head Stutls and iloint Surfa,ce_Whenever

h.ead is. removed, and pa_rticularly if removed because of
cvlinder
u-ffow"-|".f."t,
the cylinder head and block joint surface should ue ca""tuity 'u*r-*irr"a,
as well as the studs for,security in the aluminum. ro tesi.i:rra-iir"ura"
for security in,cylinder-b1ock, s_lip on a spaeer L,, to L7/a,,to"S iihis-;an
made from a length of ord vaJve guide or four s/e,,",rt" cirr'tu te
usea
spacers), thread on nut and tighten to 40 ft. lbs. torque. nacr, siualn as
should be done in this way. ff there should be a striiped tr,""ao, turn
of course, ii,u .tuo,
will pull out.
rt is rather serdom that the stud threads in the cyrinder block give
w-ay, becauseof the lower operating temperature. r'aihire oi tiru -"-ji"o""
head stud threads, is most common, and a spacer approximatelv a/2,,
long or t*o B/s" nuts shourd be slipped over eac-h .t"a iir'i"",.-JrJl
threaded on and tested ""t
40_ft. rbs. torque likewise. ff there is noiicearte
movement of stud out ofâthead, a stripped thread can be
t
"""p"at"a.--'-
t
198 ARIEL SERVICING
Surfacing the Cylinder Ilead and Cylinder Block ilolnt Surfaces-
Where these are noticeably "bowed" they should be dressed level. This can
be done at any automotive machine shop equipped with head joint surfacing
equipment, or quite a satisfactory job can be done by hand filing. In this
operation, a new file about 14" iong is most suitable, dressing from four
directions. File should be cleaned frequently with wire brush to avoid
aluminum picking up and scoring joint surface. Finally, the joint surfaces
should be finished off with fine emery cloth to provide a perfectly smooth
surface, free from scratches.
Studs wiII require removing for this operation, and in cases where
7/c" 6/ta" studs have been fitted previously and it is intended to fit the
or
a/at' size, no particular care is necessary to preserve threads in the
castings when unscrewing. However, where it is not intended to change
the studs, it is most important to soak the studs with penetrating oil for a
few hours before attempting removal. This will minimize possible damage
to threads in casting'when studs are unscrewed. Locking two nuts together
on studs is best method of gripping for unscrewing.
OVERSIZE CYLINDER HEAD STUD TNSTAILATION

It is not recommended that this job be attempted by anyone without
machine shop experience and suitable facilities. E irst class workmanship
is essential to ensure satisfactory results on this job. Where the motor
had previously 1/a" or %0" studs, it is advisable to go up to the present %"
stud size, with the exception of the 8 studs in the cylinder block, rvhere
%0" studs were originally fitted, seldom is any trouble experienced on these.
Test these for security of threads, however, as described on page 197.
Procedure is given below for replacement of both block and head studs
with the latest 7g" diameter type, which are stepped down to 6Aa" at tine
nut end,
1. Ijnscrew studs from head and block.
2. Using a drill press with level table at right ang:les to dri1l, drill
out the 8 inside stud holes in cylinder block to 7ro" diameter, i6"
deep. Counterbore %" diameter to depth of 7Aa" only. Note-It is
most important in this and subsequent drilling operations that
drilling be done as concentric to the original holes as possible, and
perfectly square to joint surface.
3. Block cylinder head on rocker box joint surface on drill table so
that cylinder head is absolutely level, and drill out the 12 outside
stud holes in head to %.a", to a depth of %". Counterbore w-ith a
7a" drill to a depth of 1Aa" oriY,
4, Drill the 8 centre stud holes in cylinder head, to 114:". Note-The
4 stud holes through rocker box will also require drilling out from
the top end to accommodate the larger diameter sleeve nuts. Drill
down from top rslrr" diameter to a depth of 76,4" from the bottom
of rocker box.
5. Drill out 12 outside stud holes in cylinder block to 1%2".
6. Thread Tapping-A set of %"x16 T.P.I. Whitworth taps should be
obtained if available. As an alternative, the U.S.S. %"x16 T.P.I.
tap can be used. A tapered starti4g tap should first be used and
finishing can be done either with a "second" or "plug" tap. Note-
If a taper tap is not available for starting it is sometimes beneficial
to counterbore the holes 21/at" fot a depth of not more tlnarl 1/+", to
ensure an easy start for the tap.
MOTOR SERVICING 199
7. rapping operation-This must be carried out with great care to

ensure that the holes are tapped at g0 degrees to suifaee. ?his is
best accomplishe.d by_use_of a tapping guldiblock on a hand tapping
operation. A s/s,, hole should be drilled in a drill press squarely
through a level block of hardwood abotrt L1/2,, thick, or'* .r,
alternative, through a block of metar with paranel lever surfaces.
This block shourd preferably measure B" to a,in rength and w.idth,
Hold this block_ down firmly onto block and head loint surfaces
while starting the tapping operation. This wil ensu"i that the tap
enters absorutely squarely. Generarly, best threading resuits are
obtained if the tap is removed and creaned once or ti'ice for each
hole. Lard oil, or a mixture of lard and kerosene, should be used
on the tap for best thread cutting results.
8. Before fitting studs to head and block, any truing up of the head
joint surfaces required should be first done.-
9. Fitting Studs-The 8 long studs fit into. the block, and the 12
short
studs into the head. Tighten in seeurery. Locki4g [*o rrt. togetner
is best method of gripping studs for tightening in. Note_fne targe
end of stud must enler neaa and block fuily tr slightly below the
joint surface. under no circumstances must it be rett even stighily
above surface. ff stud does not thread in futly, it is ritery-irrat rrore
has not been tapped quite deep enoug.h, or the %,, couitersink at
the top of hole requires deeping slighiliy.
10. Before Reasse.mbling-rt is advisable to srip the head ont6 the
block and observe that it fits without excelssive binding on the
studs. If excessive binding occurs it is likely due to or."o" *or"
of the stud hores being driled srighily off clntre or not perfecily
sqrrare to joint surface. Careful eximination witl likeljz reveal
where binding is occurring and one or more of the stud crearance
holes in the block. or head may require enlargi4g slighily. Ceneratty
11,h2" size is sufficient, and
il is inad.visabie t"o alitt ir"g"" tiru'
this if avoidable. Binding can sometimes be relieved ty ,,sp-ringlng,,
cylinder head studs siightly into correct alig.nment by a few tight
blows with hammer on side of stud that pijects. Nut, of course,
should be fitted to protect threads if this is done.
11. cylinder head and block should be washed thoroughly, making.sure
all aluminum chips are removed. varves should' bu refaceh and
seats refinished with an electric valve seat grinder before reassem-
bling.
REASSEMBLING THE 1949.1952 CYLINDER, BLOCI( AND IIEAD
Fitting cylinder Broek-Make sure that all traces of old base gasket
are removed from the crankcase joint surface and cylinder rail. oit
pistons well, g'rease base gasket and fit to crankcase o" Uu.u.
"!ai"a""
Pistons are best tocated by turning motor until all are approximately
level in their row position. suppor! pisrons by slipping t*o pi'ui". oi wooa
about '7,4.a" thick, 7,, wide and 10,, Iong, unair tfre pistons irom front to
back on the outside of rods. Note-where tong skirt pistons ,"* titt"a,
the59. piston support pieces sh_ould be approxiriatety ite,, aeep,
and fit against the cutaway at the bottombi eacfr pist6n skirt.
/,-wide
200 ARIEI, SEIRVICING
If rings have been removed from pistons, pistons can be centred
most readily by first slipping block on over pistons without rings, to
loeato them, then fit rings. Block can easily be refitted by one operator
working block over one ring per piston at a time. Great care should be
taken in this operation, not to force block down. ff piston rings do not
enter readily, it is likely that pistons are not centred up with bore and
require just slight movement, Keep close watch on piston ring ends &s
block is lowered down to avoid trapping of rings and breaking.
Tighten cylinder base nuts evenly. Not+The rear eylinder base
nuts, which are not very accessible, can be turned for initial tightening by
using a hacksaw blade, and finally tighten by use of a hammer and long
punch or screwdriver.
Fitting Cylinder Head-New cylinder head gaskets should always be
used, Copper asbestos gaskets were used initially, but currently an asbestos
gasket with internal wire mesh is being used, and is recommended for
all models, \949-1952. Locate gaskets onto head joint surface, using thick
grease which will hold them in position. Note-If stud holes do not line
up with the gasket correctly as first fitted, try turning' gasket over or
changing ends. When correctly fitted, holes in gasket should register with
holes in head, and should not bind on studs.
Before Fitting Head-It is good policy to thread on all the head nuts
onto the head studs and nuts onto the block studs, to make sure the
threads are a free fit. The 12 nuts that fit on the outside head studs should
be located on the cylinder block fin directly below their holes. These are
easily located by using one of the old /+" studs or 7/+" bolt to line up.
Pushrods should be located in their "up" position by filling the top cups
with stiff g'rease and shoving up against rockers. The cylinder head can
then be installed with adequate clearance.
Starting and initial threading-on of the outside head stud nuts in
particular will be simplified by the use of hacksaw blades. The same
applies to the four inside nuts below the rocker box.
Heatl Stud Nuts-Note-A flanged type of 5Ae"x26 thread nut has
been used since 1951 on the 12 outside head studs. Earlier models q.ith
the plain hexagon nut should be fitted with this new flanged type as it
provides a much better bearing surface against head. 6Aa" flat rvashers
should be used under the front and rear outside centre head stud nuts
below rocker boxes. Note-These are a special nut measuring ?,40" across
flats.
Sequenco of Head Stuil Nut Tightening-Refer to illustration No. 57.

Retightening Head-It is essential that head stud nuts be retightened
in the correct order after a short period of operation, preferably lvithin
the first 50 miles, with motor cold. Subsequently, a retightening should be
done at about 500 miles after assembly. Further tightening in service
should not be necessary in between routine servieing for tappet adjust-
ments when head nuts should first be tightened. Nuts should, however, be
checked for tightness at the first sign of any head joint leakage.
Heatl Nut Tightening Pressure-With 6Aa" diameter threads in the
aluminum, 30 ft. lbs. torque is recommended head stud tightening pressure.
With 7s" diameter studs, 35 ft. lbs. torque.
MOTOR SERVICING 20L
Ill. 5?
CYLINDER IIDAD NUT TIGHTENING ORDER,
On the 1949-1952 tr'our motors it is important that cylinder head studs be tightened ln the
orde! as numbered in this illustration. viewed from the saddle numb€r one stual nut ls
in rocker box on left front side and number two in right rear rocker box.
TUNING THE ARIEL 1OOO C.C. FOUR FOR MAXIMUM SPEED

Many riders, particularly in North America, expect a higher maximum
speed from a 1000 c.c. O.H.V. than is obtainable with the Ariel tr our in
standard form. No attempt is made by the manufacturers to obtain the
best maximum performance from this particular motor, it being considered
that the maximum of 90-9b m.p.h. obtainable in standaid form is
sufficient for the great majority of owners.
It is not difficult to appreciably improve the maximum speed capabilities
of this motor and for the guidance of those interested in tuning these
motors for better maximum performance, the following information is
given.
Pistons and Compression Rotio-The standard concave top pistons
provide a ratio of approximately 5.8:1. This gives the best results on low
grade fuel, but where 75 octane or better grade fuel is available, the high
compression (6.8:1) ratio pistons improve power output. These are the
highest ratio pistons the manufacturers supply, although some replacement
pistons giving slightly higher ratios are available. X'or road ,use w,ith
80 octane fuel, a ratio of 7.25:1 is considered the highest suitable. Machin-
ing the cylinder head joint surface can be done to increase compression
ratio, but this is inadvisable on the 1949 and later alloy cylinder heads
because the depth of metal above the joint surfaces is considered already
barely adequate. As much as Tzz" ot 1,A" carL be machined off the earlier
cast iron cylinder heads but this is not recommended for road use because
the cast iron motors will not give good results with a ratio above 7.25:1
unless better than 80 octane fuel is available.
202 ARIEL SERVICING
Valve Springs-The standard valve springs allow valve "float" to

commence at slightly above 5000 r.p.m. and for maximum performance a
set of special springs should be fitted. These are available, giving a seat
pressure increase of approxima+"ely 25/e, which controls the valve action
well up to 6000 r.p.m.
Oversize Inlet Valves-The standard 191e" diameter head inlet valves
can be replaced with speeial %t" oversize head valves (17a2" diameter).
It is essential that the valve port throats be correspondingly enlarged
Vsz" to give a diameter directly below the valve seat of exactly 11ii2".
Note: On the 1949 and later models'w'ith valve seat inserts, ports should
not be enlarged beyond this measurement, otherwise valve seat insert
will be left too t-hin. An electric valve seat grinder with valve seat stones
especially dressed to the required dimensions, is useful for finishing off
inside of inlet ports directly below the valve seat.
Benefit can be obtained by smoothing and streamlininS' the ports
further back from the seat, and for this operation a ro+-ary file *'ith
flexible shaft drive is useful. Valve guides should be drifted part way out of
head to improve accessibility to ports. Heat head for moving valve guides.
It is not necessary to do much to the exhaust ports other than removing
rough edges and g'enerally streamline to improve exhaust outlet. A
smaller diameter exhaust vaive is used on the alloy heads but there is no
advantage to be gained by attempt-ing to install a larger exhaust valr,e.
ft is recommended that exhaust valves be left as is except, of course, for
reseating and port polishing.
Carburetor-The original Solex carburetor, although of fairly large bore
size, provides some restriction because of the obstruction of the main jet
outlet at the venturi and butterfly shaft. These obstructions reduce the
effective cross section area to abouL 3/a". Where mot-ors are tuned for
maximum speed, it is recommended that an AmaI ls" bore carburetor be
fitted. Most suitable main jet size varies according to motor modifications
and atmospheric conditions, but generally correct size will be within a range
of 140 and 170.
Gearing-Most Ariel F ours have been turned out with a 24-looth
eng'ine sprocket, giving a top gear ratio of 4.5 to 1. A 25-tooth sprocket is
available providing a 4.3:1 top gear ratio, and for practically all sen'ice
conditions better results are obtained with this higher gearing.
Cle.anances-Note should be paid to the various clearances listed in
Section 2 of this chapter. Motors assembled with standard ciearances should
not be used for sustained maximum speed travel until at least 2000 miles
have been covered, during which higher speeds are worked up ro
progressively. On motors being set up for high speed work excluslvely, that
are not to be given the normal running-in, a slight increase in clearances is
generally desirable, particulariy, piston clearances on the cast iron motors,
on which an increase of .001" or more clearance is advisable, dependent
on amount of running-in to be provided, and the use to which the machine
will be put. Generally, in the int-erests of mechanical silence, it is desirable
to assemble as close to standard clearances as is possible.
SOLEX CARBURETORS 203
Section 4
SOLEX CAR,BUR,ETOts,S
car-type solex carburetors are fitted to 1989 Ariel 600 and i1gal-Lgbz
1000 c'c. "square Four" moders. These units are very satisfactory. No
adjustments o-r replacements are usually necessarf until very high
mileages have been covered.
Adjushnents Solex,,Strangler,, ffies

L937-1938 1000 c.c. anit 1989 600 c.c.
rtlling-The spring loaded screw on the throtile lever regulates the
idling speed. Screwing in (clockwise) increases speed and sciewing out
leduceq idling speed. This shoutd be set so that motor idles slightly faster
than the slowest possible speed, with the throtue closed. trre ioting
mixture is adjusted by the spring toaded. screw close to the carburetor
mounting flange. screwing this in (clockwise) reduces the idling gas supply
and weakens mixture, and screwing it out (anti-clockwise) enriches the
idling mixture. To adjust idling mixture turn this screw in until the motor
noticeably hesitates and just about stops, then turn out about la to t/q, ttrn.
This will provide a good idling mixture adjustment. on the average
machine coffc.t idling adjustment is usually within a range of yz to L
full turn out from the turned in position.
The standard main and auxiliary jets are usually best for normal
service at altitudes under 3000 feet. rrowever, better gas mileage
especially at higher altitudes, may be obtained by fitting a-size smaller
3]"i111rv jet and main jet. The auxitiary jet contr-ols the inixture just off
the idle and the main jet regulates the mixture at larger throtfle ofrenings.
Main Jet size-Note that the first number of the main jet indicates
the diameter of the fuel metering jet and the second number indicates the
number and dis.position of the correction holes. ff a size smaller main jet
is to be tried, it is advisable to try one rvith the same correction holes,
tr'or example, standard main jet 115 x b8, alternative sizes for weakening
mixture, 105 x 58 or 110 x 58.
Arljustments Solex "Bi-Startbr', Type-19 gg -LgiZ 1000 c.c.

fdling Ailjustment-This is the same as for the ,,Strangler,, types
already listed.
_ The *A,u-xiliary Jet-This regulates the mixture just off the .,idle,,. No.
70 is standard on the \937-7952 1000 c.c. tr'ours fitted with this carburetor.
No.^ 65 auxiliary iet will often improve mileage without impairing
performance.
The Main Jet-This controls the mixture at average speeds and
influences the acceleration. No. 120 is standard but a No. ito oi 1ts mry
be used to reduce consumption. A reduction in main jet size is sometimes
required for best results when aircleaner is fitted. ff this results in
204 ARIEL SEIRVICING
hesitation when accelerating the standard main jet should be refitted and
a size larger air correction jet fitted instead, which will weaken the high
speed mixture only.
The Air Correction JeL-It should be noted that this air jet baJances
the high speed mixture. tror example, if it is desired to weaken the high
speed mixture only, without affecting the normal speed. mixture, fit a
larger air correction jet. No. 150 is standard and the fitting of a 160 or
170 will "weaken" the high speed mixture without affecting the lower
speed adjustments.
If, for example, a smaller main jet has been fitted to provide better
gas mileage at moderate speeds but the mixture is found slighUy weak at
large throttle openings, this can be rectified by fitting a smaller air
correction jet, most likely a No. 130 or 140.
The larger the air correction jet number, the weaker the high speed
mixture, and the smaller the number the richer the high speed mixture.
The size of the air correction jet required will vary, depending on the
size of the main gas jet. Where a smaller main jet has been fitted, a
smaller air correction jet may be required to avoid too weak a high speed
mixture. If a larger main jet has been fitted, a larger air correction jet
will be necessary to avoid an over-rich high speed mixture.
Cleaning the Solex Carburetor

When the carburetor is detached from the engine the two square-
headed screws above the float chamber should be removed and then the
bottom half of carburetor can be removed, float chamber washed out and
jets removed. Jets and gas passageways should be cleaned out by forcing
gas through, using: a good oil squirt can that exerts a pressure, filled rvith
gas, or use compressed air if available.
On the Bi-Starter type, note that the main jet is located in the jet
carrier which screws into the bottom of the float chamber on an angle.
To clean out the idling jet gas passageways, remove the idling screw
completely and insert the rrozzle of the squirt can in this opening and
squirt gas through.
Wash the earburetor body in gas or solvent. Dismantling of the
Bi-Starter unit is not necessary, When reassembling make sure that float
is refitted convex side up and that jets and body screws are securely
retightened.
Note that 3 fibre washers are used on the gas feed earburetor
connection; one on the inside of the bi-starter rod support arrn, one on
the outside of this arm and one on the union bolt.
General Hints and fips on Solex Carburetors

1. ItIIing .{djusting Screw-This is rather ditficult to adjust by hand
due to the inaccessibility. Elase of adjustment can be much improved
by soldering one or two "spokes" about 7" or 7r/2" long across the
head of idling screw which will enable easy finger adjustment of
the idling mixture. If this is not done a long nosed pair of pliers
SOLEX CARBURETORS 205
may be used but the advantage offered by soldering on the .,spokes,,

is well worth the few minutes invorved. These spokes can bieasily
made from an old bicycle spoke, or a couple of. shingle nails with
the heads cut off and ends rounded and soldered on.
2. carburetor Flange Nuts-Tighten these securery and when replacing
gasket use one of about 1/{+,, matenal.
3. Air. S-tra_nS-Ier Types-A correcily adjusted and free operating
control cable is essential to ensure that this strangler clos-es fully
for starting and opens fury so there is no obstruction aJter the
motor is warmed up and lever pushed right ahead. F.itting an
additionat return spring is advisabre it the strangrer does" not
immediately return to open position when the handrebar lever is
pushed ahead.
4, Throttle Control Return Spring-The flat section coil type

compression spring originally fitted provides some considerable
resistance to opening the throtile. This can be replaced by an
extension type spring attached to the generator cover band screw
which will give a lighter action, but if the original type spring is
in use, wash it with solvent and oil whenever serviciqg caiburEtor
to ensure free action and check to make sure that it permits full
opening of the throttle. If this spring becomes very dirty, fuU
throttle opening' may be prevented.
5' The Throttle Butterfly-Do not remove this from carburetor unless
for replacement of, throttle shaft. In this event mark to ensure
refitting in same location. close the throtile to ensure centralizing
of butterfly before tightening the throtile shaft securing screws.
6. Obstruction in Idling Jet pa,ssagervays-This is the most common
cause of carburetor trouble and passages are usually easily cleared
by squirting gas through idling screw opening when lhis is iemoved,
using a squirt can that will €xert a good pressure. Irregular idling
and lack of power just off the ,,idle,, indicates obstruction in these
pas,qag'eways. Compressed air is very useful for clearing out
carburetot passageways.
7. Do not Remove Carburetor Unnecessarily-frregularities in
performance are more usually due to ig'nition trouble and it is first
advisable to clean spark plugs, magneto high-tension pickup and
check breaker points. (See Chapter +, Spark ptugs, Seclion b, anA
Magnetos, Section 4 o,f Chapter 16.)
8. F'it a Carburetor Air Cleaner for Dusty Operation-An air cleaner

will greatly reduce cylinder, piston, ring and bearing wear and
generally lengthen life of all motor parts. Space doeJ not permit
attaching an air cleaner direcily to the carburetor air intake in the
usual manner on the sqruare four models, but the manufacturers
can supply a remote mounting air cleaner unit of large capacity
fitting between left rear frame fork tubes conneeting tJcarbirretor
intake by two aluminum elbows and a length ot rubber tubing.
When an air cleaner is fitted it may be found possible to weaken
the carburetor mixture settings srighily to advanti.ge to compensate
for any increase in vacuum at the jets.
206 ARIEL SEIRVICING
9. Fitting of Gas Strainer and Sediment Bowl-The standard gauze
. strainer located at the carburetor gas line connection is not very
effective. The fitting of a car-type gas strainer and sediment bowl
is very worthwhile in that it will practically eliminate possibility
of jets or passageways becoming obstrueted and carburetor
requiring cleaning.
Section 5
IGNITION TIMING
(a) Ariel Singles Magneto Timing
Note-The timing specified below, of 7s" advance on piston is the

recommended advance for maximum speed on the 500 c.c. Red Hunter
model. T/2"-eAa" advance will be found more suitable for average touring
on this model. %" is required on the Standard O.H.V. models and 5,{0"
on the S.V. motors.
Magneto Condensation Trouble-Much magzreto trouble is due to
erankcase pressure forcing vapor into the magneto via the armature drive
sha^ft opening. Every 1000-2000 miles remove high-tension pickup, rvipe
off, stuff some clean rag into the pickup opening, and revolve motor a
number of times which will clean off collector ring.
The magneto chaincase is equipped with one or two breathers in the
back chaincase, depending on the model. fn eases of serious magneto
condensation, trouble may be in the breathers.
These breathers are located in the breather pipe elbow connection to
the chaincase. A steel ball makes contact on a complete seating on the
inside and a split seating on the outside. This permits air to be expelled
out when crankcase pressure exceeds atmospheric pressure, past the ball
against the split seating, but prevents air being drawn back in by the ball
making complete contact on the seating on the inside. Presence of the
ball and this split seating should be ascertained when overhauling'and its
actual operation checked. It sho,uld be possible to blow out through the
breather elbow, but not blow back from the outside end of breather elborv.
On 1946 and later models the split seating retaining breather batl is
replaced with a round pin. This allows better pressure release and prevents
possibility of loss of,bau,
Washer on Armature Shaft Betr.veen Sprocket and Mag-A washer
of leather or gasket paper 7/64" to 1,42" tl:,ick, that is a tight fit on the mag
armature shaft, about 1" outside diameter, should be fitted between drive
sprocket and magneto case. This will act as a flap valve preventing air
and vapor being forced into the mag via the armature shaft hole clearance,
ifcrankcase pressure should build up.
IGNITION TIMING 207
Timing procedure_Singles
1, Mouat the mag on its platform with the leather or gasket paper
washer over the armature shaft, just described, andl the te-tt.olf
retaining .washer between case and the timing aorrl". Cfu"r,
points and set gap .012,,. "irrio
2' wipe.the taper clean in sprocket and on shaft and fit the sprocket
and chain on shaft. obtain the correct chain adjustment oi arout
1/+" up an.d down in
the.tightest point. Hold the mag-squ;;r, --'
to the timing eover and tighten d6wn the three hordinlg b6lts. -" "p
3' Loosen the mag sprocket off taper, but make sure that the driving
sprocket nut is dead tight,
II1. 58
MAGIIETO SPROCTNT
PI'I.LER
a' spr@ket pu,e! that threads ou to sprocket hubs Is standard
singres' 1948 an. earlier !'our models with magneto ignition tmrkit equipment on Ariel
have threaded, magneto sprocket
hubs to accommodate a simllar puller.
4. Turn the motor over until the inlet valve opens and
piston comes up on compression to top of stroke. E'ollow clo.ses and
piston
movement with a pieee of stiff wire tnrougrr ih"-";;; the
When the piston has reached top, mark a point or, -tt ;i;*"il;;:
sponding with some point on the cylinder head.
*.i""-"o"ra_
"
208 ARIEL SERVICING
5. Back the piston down opposite rotation until it is slightly more

ttran \b" before top of stroke, then move the motor in its running
direction slowly ahead until piston is exactly 5,6" before top of stroke.
(500 Red Hunter.) This takes up the "backlash"'
6. Advance the spark control and rotate the mag slowly in the direc-
tion it runs (which is anti-clockwise looking at the sprocket, and
clockwise looking at the breaker end), until the points just com-
mence to separate.
7, Now take an old piston pin or box wrench that will just fit over
the armature shaft threads and hold this up ag:ainst the sprocket
and hit it a sharp blow with a hammer. This will fix the sprocket
on the taper in its right location. OiI the armature shaft threads
and tighten up the nut securely. Apply the hammer lightly to end
of the wrench finally to ensure dead tightness.
8, Check timing to make sure it has not slipped. tr'ollowing this
procedure carefully, it wiil very likely be found to be quite close.
lf timing is within 1,{s" either way from standard it will usually be
quite satisfactory for ordinary use.
(b) Ariel f\vins Magneto fiming

1. Wipe the taper on magneto shaft and in gear clean. Locate
magneto gear in position in crankcase before fitting magneto,
thread on g:ear nut a few turns before tightening up magneto
flange securing stud nuts fully.
2. Remove spark plugs and turn motor until pistons are 5/r0" before
top of stroke.
3. Remove breaker point cover, adjust points to ,012" gap fully
opened if this has not already been done.
4. Tighten g'ear nut on shaft lightly, but not sufficient to grip gear
to shaft.
5. Turn magneto armature via contact breaker end in its running
direction, that is clockwise, looki4g at point assembly, or anti-
clockwise looking at drive end, until breaker points just corrrrrence
to separate, with the advance mechanism blocked in the advance
position. This can be done by wedging a piece of rvood or cardboard
between the lip on the plate next to the gear and the movable plate
so that the movable plate is held as far as possible in an anti-
clockwise direction from the fixed plate.
6. Using a tube spacer or box wrench that will fit over nut, "fix" gear
hub to shaft with light tap with hammer.
7. Tighten up nut, for final tightening, give a few light taps lvith
hammer on wrench.
8. Revolve motor and check that the breaker points just commence to
separate with pistons required amount before top of stroke.
9. High Tension Wires-As the Ariel Twin firing intervals are exactly
evenly spaced, it does not matter on which cam or which cylinder
timing is done, just so long as the breaker points commence to
open in the right relation to the piston movement. After this timing
is obtained, it is, of course, necessary to fit the high tension wires
IGNI?ION TTMING 209
correctly to spark prugs. The simprest method is to just try the

wires one conneeted to each prw and if it does not siart on this
connection switch them. To be positively sure if the wires are
connected correefly, remove the front high tension pickup, which is
accessible, turn motor over until breaker points just -co*m"n"e
to open. when the brass contact of eollector-ring fa-ces this pickup
opening, wire from this pickup should be conhected to the cylinder
that has both va-lves cloied, this being the cyrinder that-is'firing.
The other wire, of course, goes to otheicylinde-r
(c) Ariel Four lgnition Systems and Timing

MAGNETO IGNITION SYSTEM_198?-1948
The Lucas magneto is a source of considerabre troubre on the four

models, especially on machines that are ridden fast. Frequent replacement
of complete point assemblies and prematurs replacerient of complete
armatures and cam rings are often necessary. This unit is not of suitable
design for operation at engine speed as turned out on this motor. Most
irregularities in performance, erratic running and misfiring, especially
at high speeds, can be traced to a magneto defect.
_be made to the magneto section of Chapter 16,
Reference should
"Reconditioning and servicing Eritish Mod'ers,,, for service data on the
Lucas magneto.
Magrlyno Unit with Genera.tor and coil rgnition-The
-^-^!eplacing
1952 type generator with automatic advance coil ignitiin distributor1g49-
be fitted by slight alteration to can
-the rigfrt side crankcase; the new type
Iarger bore generator is al.J required. Repracing irre originar
mag-neto and generator"p19:k."-t
with this new equifrment i. .lrorg-""o;Lriienueo.
Iiming Ariel 1000 c.c. f,'our Magneto Ignition

The procedure is _generally the same as for the Ariel siqgles. The
chain tensioner biade should be in place and this will avoid iiia""".""y
due to backlash, Note-A rubber gasket about ihz,, thick is""yrised between
the magneto and timing cover and behind this up ag.ainst tni iag a xr,,
thick 1" diameter reather or gasket materiat waiher-that is a tffi rit on
armature shaft should be fitGd to prevent blow_by i"6 th";;?. -
rt does not matter what cytinder the timing of the breaker points is
done on, but the most convenient one is No. 1, front right side.
set the piston %e" before top of the compression stroke. Advance the
spark fully, turn mag armature in direction of its rotatio, ("u*" ,,
eng:ine, clock on timing side, anti-clock on breaker side), untit the breater
points just commence. to open. Tap the mag sprocket on with a box
wrench or oId piston pin that fits over the armature threads, ttren tigtrten
yq. and finarly hammer tight. check to make sure timing is witrrin
1lo" "yt
of this setting after tightening.
Distributor Eotor Timing 1986-194g Four Moders-After the breaker
points have been timed-correctly to piston movement, Vta,,
on the 600 and ,ae" B.T.D.C. on ihe 10b0 c.c., the distribua;r B,T.D.C.
timed so that the mark on the rotor lines up with the mark on ttmust be
rr"".
"
270 ARIEL SERVICING
The rotor should be turned anti-clockwise to take up backlash in drive
when checking and No. 1 piston should be at firing point on compression
stroke. lf rotor is out more t}:ar.lAt^" set correct as follows: Lift off rotor,
unwind screw in centre of rotor driveshaft top, tap this top sideways
with a light hammer tap. This will free it from taper. Locate correctly
and retighten screw. Note that a fair amount of backlash is normal in
the rotor drive.
Generator Removal Can Disturb Rotor Timing on 1936-1948 models-
If the generator is removed, care should be taken not to move the engine
while it is removed. If the engine is not revolved it will usually be possible
to refit the generator without retiming the distributor. If motor has been
revolved with generator off, retiming of distributor as outlined should be
carried out. If difficulty is experienced in refitting generator it is in the
driving dqg slots that drive the distributor horizontal worm gear not lining
up with the slot in face of generator gear; movement of generator g'ear
should be made so that dog will engage with gear face slot.
Ariel Four Distributor Gea,r Lubrication-Note there is a grease cup
located just under the base of the distributor. Turn this one turrr every
500 miles and remove and refill grease cup every 2000 miles.
Removal of Ariel Four Distributor Gea,rs-If these are ever removed
for inspection or replacement when reconditioning, take care not to lose
the fibre washers at the blind end of both the vertical and horizontal worm
gears. Note-The vertical worm g:ear that the rotor is mounted on is
located in the gear case by a dowel end on the grease cup feed scretv. To
remove, take off grease cup and unscrew the grease feed screw with ile"
socket and the gear can be lifted out.
Lucas-Mag Generator Fibre and Steel Gear Lubrica,tion-These do
not require the addition of any lubricant in between reconditioning periods.
Every 10-15,000 miles when mag is removed for reconditioning the gear
case should be packed with a good medium grade grease.
Ignition-Cylinder Firing Order-This is 1, 2, 3 and 4, cylinders
numbered 1 for front right hand when looking down at motor from the
saddle, I'oing: around in clockwise direction. Right rear cylinder No. 2.
Left rear cylinder No. 3, and left front cylinder No. 4, This is the same
on all models.
Right front
e\ Left front
o
&), Left rear
Right rear
IU, 59
1936.1948 "SQUARE FOUR" DISTRIBUTOR IYIE,NG
The above illustration shows the high tension cable outlets and plugs to which fitted..
Distributor Servicing-When magneto points are cleaned and set,

distributor cap should be removed, contacts cleaned with point file or emery
and rotor contact cleaned likewise. Clean inside of distributor cap and
wipe off rotor thoroug:hly.
Iligh-Tension Cable Replacement-Deteriorated high-tension cables are
a common cause of ignition trouble, especially in wet weather. Cables are
IGNITION TIMING 27L
easily replaced by removal of two screws and cap on top of, distributor.
Note that after washi4g maehine off with hose or after standing in very
heavy rain, water may bo causing short circuiting of high-tension wires
under distributor cap top. This should be removed and wires thoroughly
dried off.
1931-1935 T'OURS-DISTR,IBUTOE WIRING
On models up to and includ.ing 1935 the rotor is 6riven off the end
of the camshaft and being located by slot in end of camshaft, rotor cannot
be out of time with distributor wire contacts. High-tension wires connect
to cylinders as follows, facing distributor: Lower left No. 1, lower right
No. 2, upper right No. 3, upper left No. 4. If breaker points are timed to
operLl/4t' before T.D.C., timing will be correct.
Timing L949-L952 Ariel "Fours" lr/ith Automatic

Ignition Advance
!'irst, clean and set breaker points to .072" gap fully open. Revolve
motor so that either pistons 1 and 3, or 2 and 4, are at top of stroke,
Breaker points should just commence to open in this position. The timing
can be checked in the advance position by revolving motor so that pistons
arb approximately s,1u'r before top of stroke, and the distributor rotor
turned as far as it will go in a clockwise direction, at which point the
breaker points should be just separa,ting.
To adjust timing, slacken the clip bolt below the distributor head and
rotate distributor in an anti-clockwise direction to advance timing, and
in a clockwise direction to retard. Before chang'ing timing, it is wise to
make a pencil mark on the distributor and a corresponding mark on
the distributor base to indicate the original position.
When reassembling after timing chain or distributor has been removed,
and the original timing lost, an approximately correct setting should be
made by setting No.1 piston at top of stroke; revolve distributor shaJt so
that rotor points to end of condenser opposite terminal and install dis-
tributor with the flat side facing oil tank, finally adjust timiqg by revolving
distributor head so that points are just separating and with rotor pointing
to right rear corner of distributor.
Automatic Advance Distributor Lubrication-Whenever breaker points
are serviced at about 2000-mile intervals, the distributor rotor should be
removed and a few drops of light oil appiied to the centre of breaker cam.
Some models have an oiler on the distributor base for lubricating the
distributor drive shaft. This should not be overlooked. Models without
distributor base oiler should have a few drops of oil applied to top end of
distributor shaft just below the breaker cam.
Distributor Wiring-The firing order is 1, 2, 3 and 4, cylinders num-
bered starting with No, 1 at right front and going around clockwise as
viewed from the saddle. The right rear distributor outlet is No. 1, left
rear No. 2, lett front No. 3, and right front No. 4 cylinder (original
assembly).
If the original timing has been changed, this artangement may not
be correct, although the sequence will be the same. To check, set No, 1
piston (right front) at top of compression stroke (both valves closed).
Note-The distributor terminal high-tension contact to which the rotor
points in this position. This will be the correct ouilet for No. 1 cylinder,
2a2 ARIEIJ SERVICING
and looking down on distributor going around clockwise, the next outlet
wiU be for No. 2 followed by No. 3 and No. 4.
Terminals-On servicing ignition, check the coil low tension terminals,
also the terminal on distributor to which the coil wire attaches, condenser
terminal and condenser ground screws, for tightness. Maintenance of
clean battery terminals and a tight g.round connection are also important
to reliability of the coil ignition system.
Section 6
GEAB,BOXES, CLUTCHES AND CIIAINS

Gearboxes
Ariel rnachines have been equipped with Burman gearboxes for many
years. This equipment is the same as used on a number of English makes
and is covered in Section g of Chapter 16. References should be made to
this section for gearbox servicing data required.
Gearbox Lubrication-Prior to early 1948, all Burman gearboxes
fitted to Ariel motorcycles require a light semi-liquid grease such as
castrolease llght or medium. During 1948 an oil seal was incorporated in
IU. 60
TOR,CING GBEASD INTO AR,IEL FOUB GEARBOX
The -grease fill€r plug ls rather inaccessible on Ariel !'our machines, but grease supply
can be-replenished fairly easily with use of a hand force gun as illustrated. Add r/a t6-%
pint of Iight grease (semi-liquid) every 20OO miles. On 1948 antl later models with driya
ggar b€aring oil seal, motor oil caa be used; where leakage occurs on these models use
of half and half motor oil ard light grease is recommended. For zero temperatures, add
Y+ to 1/z pint of S.A.E. No. 10 oil. Removal of oil lines makes filler ptug m-ore acceisibte.
1952 models should be lutlricated with motor oil only. Add oil yia tne 6tut-cu operating leve!
inspection cap opening; level screw is at rear of staiter shaft,
GEARBOX CLUTCHES AND CIIAINS 213
the drive gear bearing side to enable motor oil lubricant to be used.
Whero there is a tendency for oil leakage to occur on the later type
gearboxes, a mixture of half and half light grease and motor oil is
recommended. The correct amount of lubricant is one pint. Where oil
only is used, this is fairly readily measured, the correct level being 27/2"-3"
down from the top level of, the filler plug hole. On gtease lubricated gear-
boxes it is rather difficult to check on the supply of lubricant. Addition
of 1/+ pint of light grease at 2000-mile intervals, however, will maintain
adequate supply of lubricant.
Chains
Primary Chain Atljustment-Slacken gearbox bottom pivot bolt and
top securing bolt. Tighten draw bolt nut under oil tank at top and rear
of gearbox, to tighten chain; slacken to loosen. Securely retighten top
and bottom gearbox nuts when Ya"-:!2" slaek is present in the ehain.
Bear Chain Arljustment-On rigid frame models and 1950 and later
spring frame models this is by set screws. On 1949 and earlier spring
frame machines adjustment is effected by cams operating independently.
It is important that cams be moved an equal amount. Equal adjustment
of cams can be made by marking a line across each cam throqgh the
cam posts before adjusting and noting equal movement of lines. Wheel
aligrlment should be checked when adjusting.
1936-1952 lfpe Clutch Outsirle Chaincase

Construction-The clutch is entirely outside of the chaincase and runs
dry, A needle type roller bearing of large dimensions with bronze cag'e
is provided for the clutch sprocket to run on when cluteh is disengaged.
The clutch can be completely dismantled without disturbing the
primary chaincase, but if it is ever necessary to remove the front
chaincase to eheck the engine shaft shock absorber assembly, or for
removing the motor from the frame, the clutch must first be completely
dismantled.
Maintenanco anil Ailjustrn"ols-7/Ea" clutch control cable free slack
must be maintained. There are two adjustments, the control cable adjuster
and the operating arm plunger screw. The cable adjuster is only intended
to maintain the best operating angle for the operating lever and the
regular adjustment should be made on the plunger screw. To adjust this,
press the lever in slightly so that the cable is unhooked and the operating
lever can be let down and rubber cover removed. Elold the plunger body
while the plunger serew is turned in slightly. This should be moved in
1/a of a turn at a time, hooked up and clearance checked about
Vae,,
clearance between the operating plunger shoulder and the thrust points
on lever is desirable and this will give about Vrc', cable slack.
It will be noted that the operating lever can only be pivoted up into
place again when the operating plunger flats and the hexagon adjusting
screw flats are parallel to the sides of the channel section lever.
The cable should be adjusted so that there is altottt Vsz,, space between
the shoulder on operating plunger and the gearcase when clutch is
disengaged, to avoid possibility of this strikirg the case and thus straining
the cable.
274 ARIEI] SERVICING
Lubrication-Wash off the operating plunger, etc., with varsol and
brush, and smear with thick grease, before refitting, every 2000 miles.
Dismantling-Unw,ind spring nuts, springs, eups, pressure plate and
entire plate assembly can now be withdrawn. The alutch hub nut is
tightened securely so gears should be placed in high and rear brake
applied for removal of the hub nut. The hub is a ipline fit onto the
mainshaft and can be removed without difficulty. Behind this will be found
a flat, hardened steel thrust washer for the clutch sprocket, with
that locates in one of the splines. rt wiu be noticed that outside clutch
drum is outside the chaincase and bolted to the clutch sprocket inside
the chaincase by six hard.ened Y+,, 26 T.p.I. screws; the foldovers of the
ring type lock washer must be folded baek before these can be undone.
IJse 3/3" socket. Chaincase must now be dismaniled before clutch sprocket
can be removed but this is not necessary unless it is desired to inspect the
primary drive or remove the motor or g:earbox.
Clutch Reassembly,-Qriler of Parts
1. Plain hardened steel washer onto mainshaft against shoulder.

2. Smear mainshaft clutch bearing cage with thick grease, slip on
cage and fit rollers into cage. The grease will hold the rollers.
3. Clutch sprocket an6 primary chain.
4. Primary chaincase; use gasket goo or 1Az" thick gasket.
5. Clutch outside drum, ring foldover lock washer, six hexagon
screws, tighten securely wit}; B/a" sockel, and fold over lock $'asher
ag'ainst screws.
6. Hardened thrust washer with tip fitting into one mainshaft spline.
7. Clutch hub onto mainshaft.
8. Clutch hub flat washer and alternative lock ,washer a1so.
9. Mainshaft nut hammer tighten with gears in high and rear brake
applied. Centre punch nut to shaft threads to ensure against
loosening.
10, fnstall clutch steel plate then alternate corked and steel plates.
11. Clutch spring pressure plate, cups, spring and nuts.
12. Tighten spring nuts until about 1/sz" past end of studs and then
try operating clutch lever and note how the spring pressure plate
throws off, Adjust springs individually as necessary to obtain an
even release of pressure plate from the first steel plate.
13. Note. Clutch rod adjustment is made with plunger and screw in
level at K.S. side; allo'w J,/ro" free cable slack.
14. Do not overlook to fill the chaincase with oil after assembly. No
oil gets from the chaincase into this clutch, it runs ,,dry.,'
EORKS, I'RAMEI AND WHEELS 275
Section ?
FOB,KS, F'BAME AND WIIEELS
Plunger Forks-1947 -L9SZ

OiI Supply-Under normal conditions only seasonal change of oil is
required. Correct oil level is 7'l,t-18,, below the top face of the fork top
lug. This should be measured with the machine standing without load
and in an upright position. An S.A,E. No. 30 grade of, oil is recommended for
service in temperatures averaging above freezing, and S.A.E. No. 20 for
colder operation.
Springs-Tko strengths of springs are available, solo and sidecar.
These can be identified as follows: Solo spring-Yellow spot, overall length
approx. 10r/2". Sidecar spring-Red spot, overall length approx, g/a,,.
Fork Bushing and Oil Seal Replacements-Need for replacement of the
fork main tube bushings is indicated when there is noticeable baek and
forth movement of the lower leg when front brake is applied and machine
rocked back and forwards. A iurther check can be mide by placing a
block under the motor to lift front wheel clear from ground; then both
lower fork legs can be grasped and moved backwards and. forwards.
Mileage at which fork bushing replacement is necessary varies considerably
under different operating conditions. Under favorable conditions of use,
bushing replacement is not likely to be necessary under 20,000-25,000
miles, however, operating off paved roads and under both dusty and wet
surfaee conditions results in more rapid wear, and replacements may be
neeessary in as low as 10,000 miles.
I
It is generally advisable to replace oil seals when new bushings are
being installed, although replacement of this spring loaded rubber type oil
seal is not essential until worn so there is no drag on the main tubes,
Seals must be installed with the spring loaded end of oil seal down.
Front \il"heel Remova,l Plunger Forks-Machine should be on front
and rear stands or on rear stand with a block under motor. Wipe the
exposed section of front axle between hub and left fork leg clean w.ith a
cloth. Remove the right axle nut; slacken the pinch bolt-at bottom of
Ieft fork leg; disconnect brake cable and brake anchor. place a bar
through the hole in left end of axle and completely withdraw. place axle
where it will not come in contact with dirt. To avoid possibility of dirt
getting into centre of wheel hub and damaging bearings, when centre
axle is removed, it can be placed back into hub while wheel is removed,
or the axle bearing openings plugged with rag.
Replacing \ilheel-Wipe the axle clean, start it through left fork leg;
Iift wheel in position, and slide axle through. position brake plate io
that anchor lug is behind fork lug. Fit anchor bolt but do not tighten.
Tighten right axle nut fully. Tighten brake anchor bolt. Before finally
tightening left fork leg axle pineh bolt, place front rvheel on ground and
work handlebars up and down a few times; finally tighten pincfr bolt,
Dismantling the Phurger Forks-F.irst support machine with a block
under crankcase. Then remove front wheel, front stand and mud guard.
IJnscrew the hexagon plugs at top of fork. Next unscrew the Allen type
screws in the lower fork lug that secure the main tubes in the lower lug.
21,6 ARIEL SERVICING
The main tubes with the lower lugs can now be pulled out. If too tight a
flt in the lower lug, wedge a screlvdriver in the lower lug split. When main
tubes and lower Iegs are removed, replace top plugs in main tubes to
prevent loss of oil,
tr'urther dismantling is accomplished by removi4g of fork spring
and unscrewing the sleeve at the top of the lower leg. If the special tool
is not available a pipe wrench can be used, gripping as close to the bottom
of this upper sleeve as possible, holding lower fork axle lug in vice.
tr'ollowing this, remove the circlip, securiqg the top bushing. Lower leg can
be completely withdrawn if main tube is gripped carefully in a vice. Tube
should be wrapped or protected with soft vice jaws in this operation. Lower
leg is best tapped off by placing axle through axle hole and tapping on axle
with a soft hammer. The top bushing is driven out of the lower leg in this
operation, Removal of the cover tube directly below the lower fork head
lug can be effected by removing the screws accessible from the bottom
with a long screwdriver. The top fork crown can be removed by taking
off the top nut below the steering damper knob. See illustrations 96, 97
and 98, pages 265-266, showing servicing of B.S.A. forks which are
similar.
Reassembling Plunger Forks-Reassemble in the reverse order of dis-
mantling. When the lower leg reassembly is completed, fit this with the
main tube through the lower fork lug up into the top crown. Tighten the
top hexagon plug slightly. F'it the top stem nut below the steering damper.
Retighten the two hexagon plug nuts. E inally tighten the two Allen scre*'s
securing the main tubes into the lower fork lug.
Plunger Forks Steering Head Bearing Atljustment-A spring dia-

phragm is fitted between the bottom steering stem nut and the top steering
head race dust cover. This diaphragm spring exerts a constant pressure on
the top race and takes up any small amouat of steering'head slack that
develops frorn average wear. To adjust, block up machine with a box
under engine to lift front wheel clear of ground. Slacken the top locknut
directly below the top fork crown. Then tighten down the lorver nut
gradually until all trace of, play in the steering head disappears. Then
tighten a further one-sixth turn or less than this if one-sixth turn causes
stiffness in steering head. Hold the bottom nut and tighten the top locknut
down on it,
Steering Head Bearing Races-It is very seldom that these require

replacing uniess the machine has been operated for some period with
excessively loose adjustment. Pitted races can usualty be detected by
distinct tendency for the steering head to grip in one or more positions
when wheel is off ground and handlebar is turned. Pitted races have a
very adverse effect on steerirlg and should be replaced when complete
overhauling is undertaken. When steering head has been completely dis-
mantled, for reassembling, smear races with thick grease to hold bails
in place when fitting steering stem.
Plunger Fork Accident Darnage-A very slight bend in the main
tubes not exceeding t1*" off centre in the entire length can usually be
straightened reasonably satisfactorily. However, care should be taken that
the tube is supported on suitably curved blocks and the pressure applied
with a similar block to avoid flattening tube. If bent in excess 67 t/"t' off
centre, replacement of main tube is recommended.
EORKS, ERAME AND WHEELS 2L7
Girder T5rpe Forks-1946 and Earlier Motlels

Fork Spindle End Plray Ailjustment-The knurled washers on fork
spindles between links and forks should be free to turn with barely
perceptible play. To take up excessive end play, adjust as follows: Slacken
nuts on both ends of spindle, turn squared end of spindle out (anti-
clockwise) between t/e arLd Y+ turn, then tighten nut on plain end of
spindle and check that washers are stitl free to turn or that forks can
be moved up and down satisfactorily. A further check should be made
a.fter tightening the nut on the squared end of spindle as due to the play
in the threads, a slight amount of end play is taken up when this nut is
tightened. Providing one washer is free to turn on each spindle, or forks
ca.n be moved up and down freely by pulling up and pushing down on the
handlebars, sufficient play is present.
Steering Head Bearing Adjustment-To adjust bearing, slacken
steering head pinch bolt, then tighten down steering head bottom nut
fully, using a moderate amount of pressure. Then slacken about one-tenth
of a turn, tighten pinch bolt securely, and retighten top stem nut.
Ill. 61
AIiIEL R.DAE SPRINC tr'RA]l{E

PART SECTIONEI)
This illustration detalls constmctlon and
assembly of the Ari€l Sbring l'rame. Refer.
ence should be made to the notes below for
serYicing details.
(K)
Lubrica,tion-" -,:;'j:fff,:H**;11T:.,
and each rear pivot (E). Grease every 1000 miles.
or each cen*e bo,t
Adjustments and Replacements-No adjustments or replacements are
normally necessary until very considerable mileages have been covered.
At intervals of about 5000 miles the rear pivot link can be adjusted
for end play if there is noticeably excessive clearance at the knurled
washers. To adjust, slacken hexagon nut on each side and unscrew
square end of link bolt (G). Retighten hexagon nut an( check to make
sure that at least one knurled washer on each side can be revolved with
fingers. If not, slacken hexagon nut and turn bolt (G) slighily back in,
and retighten hexagon nut.
When reconditioning after very considerable mileage, link bushing
(I') and top and bottom slider bushings (C) should be examined, and
replaced if noticeably worn.
Dism.antling-Assembly is easily dismantled by removing bottom dome
nut when the centre bolt (K) together with collar (N) can be removed
from _above, after tapping on bottom end bolt. The main spring, dust
excluding tubes and slider, can then be withdrawn from-aboie, To
278 ARIEL SERVICING
dismantle further, remove link bolt (G). This is threaded into the outside
end of the stirrup (H) and must be unscrewed towards the inside.
Ariel Spring tr'rame Assembly

Order of Parts Assembly-Parts are identified by letters shown in
illustration number 61 as detailed below:
1. Install dust cover tube (L) with open section to rear.
2. The thick packing'washer and short recoil spring with large end
down. X'it pivot boss (F).
3. tr'it the slicter (B) with short extension below collar (D) at bottom.
4. Above the collar fit the dust tube (M) and the main compression
spring.
5. Thread the aluminum collar (N) onto the bolt (K). Foilow with
guid.e tube (A). Note-Bushing (C) and guide tube (A) should
be smeared with grease on assembly.
6. F it this assembly down through the spring frame unit until the
end of bolt (K) projeets through the bottom of frame lug. Tighten
the bottom dome nuts securely.
7. Fit the stirrup (H). Grease the pivot pin (G) and note this ls
installed from the wheel side and threads into the outside stiln-lp
arm (H).
8. Note that the knurled washers are fitted in either side of t-he
spring'collar pivot boss (F').
9. The squared end of the pivot pin (G) can be turned until all
slack is taken up, then turn in r/3 to Y+ turn and tighten up
locknut securely. Note that at least one of the knurled washers on
each side must be free. lf not, slacken locknut and turn squared
end in slightly further,
10. Check for tightness nuts and bolts through front pivot links and
recheck bottom dome nut below, each spring assembly.
I['heel Bearings
Wheel Bearing Lubrication-Over-lubrication of wheel bearings should
be avoided as grease may work onto brake linings, and seriously effect
brake efficiency. lf wheels are to be lubricated with grease gun, do not
give more than five or six shots with a standard g"ease gu:r at 1000-mi1e
intervals. Recommended procedure is to dismantle hubs about eYery
20-30,000 miles, wash out old grease, clean bearings and repack hubs
t/2 full with medium grade grease or fibrous wheel bear.ing grease.
Tapered Roller Type Be.a,rings-Front wheels on all girder forks,
rear wheels on all except spring frame and pull-out axle types, have this
type of bearing. When wheel bearing play at rim exceeds 1/r0,, slacken
adjusting bearing' locknuts and tighten inside cone adjusting nut fully
with moderate pressure. Then slacken a full 7/+ turn and tighten locknut.
Avoid overtightening tapered roller bearings. Just barely perceptible
play at wheel rim is desirable.
Non-Atljustable Ball Bearings-Plunger fork front rvheels, pullout
axle rear wheels, and spring frame type rear wheels are fitted with
non-adjustable ball bearings. When bearing wear is such thaL !/s" rrm
side piay develops, replacement of bearings is recommended.
Brake Adjustment-The main adjustment should be effected on the
square head futcrum screw. Minor adjustments can be effected on rear
brake rod wing nut or on the adjuster at the bottom of cable on front.
On earlier models without the front brake shoe adjustment, there is a
knurled knob at the bottom end of control rod.
C'IIAPTER 6
B,S.A. SERT/ICILYG
Note: This chapter contains servicing information applying especially

to B.S.A. machines. F'or information on operating, refer to Chapter 3. An
outline of average maintenance requirements as weII as useful general
maintenance information will be found in Chapter 4. Reference should be
made to Chapter 16 "Reconditioning and Servicing British Models" for
servicing information on components such as carburetors, magnetos,
generators and electrical systems.
Section One
LUBRICATION
Grades of Motor Oil-I'or recommended Oil Grades for varying
temperatures, refer to the lubrication section of Chapter 4 "Maintenance"
page 126.
Motor Oil Changing-The motor oil tank should be drained, flushed out
and refilled with fresh oil o,f the correct grade, at 1000-mile intervals,
when operating under favourable and comparatively dust-free conditions.
at above freezing temperatures. Under dusty operating conditions
especially where carburetor air cleaner is not fitted, oil should be changed
at 500-mile intervals.
When operating in temperatures below freezing, oil should be changed
at 500-mile intervals or oftener, if there is evidence of water accumulation
in oil. Oil dilution is most prevalent where machines are used on short
runs in cold weather. Under some conditions, oil changing intervals of
200 miles will be found advisable, to maintain lubrication system in an
efficient state,
Checking on Oil Circulation-Pressure gauges or indj.cators are no
longer used on B.S.A. machines, A lubrication system failure is very
unlikely to occur, however, it is advisable at intervals to check on the
oil circulation by removing the oil tank filler cap and observing' for
return flow to tank. A heavy return oil flow immediately after starting up,
followed by a somewhat intermittent and reduced volume of return, is
normal. It is most important to check on the oil return frequently when
operating in temperatures below freezing, because it is under such
conditions that oiling system failure is most likely to occur.
Oil change should be made when oil is warm, immediately after
operation. It is beneficial to wash out oil tank with light oil or oil mixed
with kerosene, gasoline or varsol. Machine should be leaned over well to
ensure that the flushing oil drains completely from tank. It is not
220 B.S.A. SERVICING
essential to remove for cleaning, the feed filter from the tank, or the
return filter in the base of crankcase, on each oil change. It is good policy
to remove these and clean at least at 5000-mile intervals, and when
overhauling.
Oil Filters-"B" anal "C" Singles an(l Twins-Two wire gauze filters
are employed. The feed supply filter is located at the bottom a.nd rear
of tank, attached to the top of the union bolt that secures the feed oil
line to tank, The return oil filter is located at the bottom of the crankcase,
and can be dismantled for cleaning by removing the four nuts, and
securing plate at bottom of crankcase. A new gasket should be fitted on
the filter plate when refitting, or old gasket coated with jointing
compound. Note-Avoid overtightening filter plate stud nuts. These 7+"
diameter studs can be twisted off fairly easily,
FITTER
PRESSURE
RELEASE
r'PLUG
DRAIil PI PE FEE D
TO
OIT RETURN PIPE
BIG
OII SUPPLY PIPI END
Itt, 63
THE B.S.A. DBY SUMP

LUBEICATION SYSTEIIf PRESSURE DOUBLE
The lubrication system details illu- VALVE A GEAR TYPE
trated on this Side Valve B.S..d.
Motor apply to tbe OIL PUMP
O.H.V. sin8le types also. The recent COVER
O.II.V. models have, in addiilon, m GAUZE FILTER
oi1 line branching off the rcturn pipe
feeding oil to ttre O.H.V. rocker BALL VALVE C
spindles.
On models other than the "M" singtes the tank filter is located at ttre bottom of taDk oa
oil feed pipe union bolt. See Ill. 65.
Pressuo Valvo "A"-This consists of a screw plug and spring lmded ball in timing case
cover which checks oil feed from pump to build up a pressure to operate o11 pressure
indicator button, where fitted. This va.lve also prevents oil passin8 from taDk through feed
pump ild into crilkcase when motor is statiotary. Dirt on this valye seating may allow oil
to drain from motor to tank when stopped, resulting in over-oiling when starting up, and
may also affect operation of indicator. Clean seating by removing cap screw spring and batl;
when replacing, tap ba.ll onto seating with punch and light hmmer to effect a good seatiDg.
BaIl Valvo "C"-!'ailure of oil to return may be due to this baU being stuck on seating;
remove sover plate and lift baU by pressinB up with a piece of wire.
LUBRICATION 22L
'M' Singlo Models-Tank Filter-The tank filter on the "M" models

is accessible by the filler cap opening as shown in illustration No. 63. As
this fiiter can be serviced very easily, it is recommended that it be cleaned
whenever oil is changed. This filter should be washed in gasoline and
allowed to dry before refitting.
0rr H0LE5
KEEP CLEAR.
ru. 64
Note the o, reed passase*,rl'i;";.llT3"1T :# r:,:ffi gear

by gasket. Note that the vertical oil pump worm drive"""TI1n,"n
must not be obstructe.r
is located by the horlzontal
plug illustrated that engages in groove on gear shaft. This plug must be removed before
worm gear shaft can be withdrawn, plug is threaded to accommodate tlming coyer screw,
to aid removal.
Oil Supply Adjustment-No adjustment to oil supply is provided on

the recent B.S.A. models. When excessive oil consumption develops it is
usually due to a worn piston ring or piston and cylinder condition.
B.S.A. L932-1935 Oil Pressure Adjustment-Knob on timing e:ear cover
adjusts oil supply. Turning down (clockwise) reduces oil supply; turning
out (anti-clockwise) increases oil supply. On models equipped with oil
gauge, normal pressure reading is 5 to 15 lbs.
On these earlier models only one set of oil pump gears is used.
This is the feed pump. The oil reservoir is a separate compartment at
front of crankcase. The flylvheel chamber is entirely separate from the
oil supply and oil is returned from the flyr,vheel chamber to the reservoir
by the flylvheels. Due to the flywheels dipping in oil, piston lubrication is
very considerable and a tendency to over-oil is very common when some
amount of piston ring, piston and cylinder wear has taken place. This can
be counteracted by reducing oil supply until motor is reconditioned.
125 c.c. Motor Lubrication-The "Petroil" system is used, oil being
mixed with the gasoline in the ratio of one part of oil with 16-24 parts
gasoline. The manufaeturers recommend the 1 to 16 ratio during the
running-in period. This is achieved by usiqg 3 of the oil measures attached
to the gas tank cap, with each fmperial gallon of gasoline. After the
machine is well run in, the ratio may be reduced to 1 to 24 by the use
of two measures of oil per fmperial gallon of gasoline. An S.A.E. No. 50
or No. 60 grade should be used. Where possible, g'as and oil should be
mixed before pouring into tank, but if this is not convenient, gas tap
should be shut off, gas put in tank first, and oil poured in slowIy, and the
machine rocked for a minute or so to mix before gas tap is turned on.
:r
\
,,, B.S.A. SERVICING
B.S.A. 500 c.c.-650 c.c. Twin Lubrication System-A double gear type
pump is driven by worm gear off the right end of crankshaft. Note that
driving worm is fitted to crankshaft with left hand thread. Complete
pump assembly can easily be withdrawn for servicing by undoing the three
mounting stud nuts. Note that the left hand thread crankshaft oil pump
drive worm nut and washer must first be removed and motor should be
revolved opposite to running direction after slackening driving worm
(left hand thread), holding hexagon, and oil pump withdrawn with driving
worm. The feed pump (narrow set of gears) supplies oil under pressure
to the plain right crankshaft bearing ard to the plain type con-rod big-end
bearings. On later models there is an oil feed to the camshaft.
PRESSURE REf,EASE VAL\T
TIIAN MODELS
The pressure release valve is located in the
large hexagon plug in front oI iower right
sectiou of crauhcase timing chest. Valte
C@G** @s should be cleaned out at intervals of 20tr0-

5000 miles. Dirt lodged on seating ma!' cause
excessive pressure release, ard result in dan-
gerously low oil pressure to bearings. \1'hen
reassembling valye, fi! ball into bod!' first,
followed by spring, Tighten cap nut securell'.
Rocker Oil F'eetl-With the exception of the first vertical Trvin motors
produced, the rocker oil feed is supplied to rocker shafts on left side of
cylinder head, from return Iine union at base of oii tank. To ascertain
that this line is clear, and oil is reaching rocker shafts, slacken dome nuts
slightly and pry banjo unions free from rocker box. Start up motor and
hold finger over oil outlet in tank, and note that oil emerges from each
union. If not, line should be removed and cleaned out, Retighten banjo
nuts securely.
IU. 65
MODEL SINGLES A.\D TITDiS

A wire gauge type feed filter is locaied
in bottom of tank attached to ieeC pipe
union bolt. The returD oil filier is at bci-
tom of crankcase and !s rerorab:e fcr
cleaning when cover plate is:eEoved.
oL nETUU plpt
Gearbox Lubrication-Motor oil same grade as used in motor. (see
page 126) is correct for all model gearboxes. Oil level should be checked
and topped up at least every 1000 miles. Drain and refill at 5000-mile
intervals, or seasonally if there is substantial change in temperature.
Refer to Section 5 of this Chapter, page 251 for details on gearbox oil levels.
Plunger Fork Lubrication-S.A.E. No. 20 oil should be used for normal
operation at above freezing temperatures. Below freezing S.A.E. No. 10.
X'or extra heavy service conditions and extreme heat, S.A.E. No. 30 o11
can be used. Correct oil supply is 7+ pint in each leg. Oil should be
LIIBRICATION qre
changed seasonally, or at 5000-mile intervals, Refer to Section 6 of this

Chapter, page 264, for details of fork oil changing and checking of oil level.
On 125 c.c. model forks, grease gun lubrication only is provided.
e515
ru. 66
B.S.A. Lubrication Chart

ftem Numtler P&rt Lubricant Interyal
7 Steering Head Grease Gun 1,000 miles
2 Saddle 'Pivot Grease Gun 1,000 miles
3 Rear Sbling tr'rame Grease Gun 1.000 miles
4 Motor Oil Tank Xfotor Oil Change every 1,000 miles
5 Gearbox tr[otor Oil Check LeYel every 1,000
miles
Change eYery 5,000 miles
6 Brake Pedat Grease eun 1.000 mites
7 Wheel lIubs Grease Gun 1,000 miles; alternative
dismantle and repack
every 20,000 miles
8 Brake Camshafts Oil or Grease Every 1,000 miles
o Central Stand Grease cun Every 1,00O miles
10 Magneto Breaker
cam Oil or Grease lightly EYery 2,000 miles
11 Primary Chain Oit Motor Oil Check level every 1,000
Bath mi1es, change every
5.000 miles
12 Magneto Advance od Clean and lubricate when
overhauling or at
5-10.000 miles-
13 Rear Chain Oil or crease CleaE and Lubricate every
1.000 miles
74 Oil Pressure Dismantle and clean when
Release Valve servicing engine at 5,000
mile intervals
15 Oil Tank anal Clean at 2-5,000 mile
Crilkcase l'ilte lntervals
IO l'orks s.A.E. 20 oir Drain and refill eyery sea-
son, or at least 5.000
mile intervals
Section 2
CLEAftANCES AND SETTINGS
t25 c.c. 250 c.i. 350 c.c.
B.S.A. Iwo,.D1"
Stroke o.H.v. o.H.v.
Clearances and Settings "c11" "831"
Piston Clearances-Pistons cam-

ground .006"-.010" cam, skirts
tapered.
Solid Skirt T5,po Fistons
Bottom of, skirt......... *.004" .004" .0a4y2"
Top of skirt............... .0057/2" .0051/2" .006Y2"
Lower ring Iands.............. .010" .010" .013'
Second and top ring land....... .472" .014" .016"
Piston ring joint 9ap................. .010" .072" .015"
(very light tap or hand push fit)..... .001/+" .001/2" .00'zL"
Piston Pin in rod (reamed)
(finger push fit).......
Piston pin in rod (honed)
(free fit)....... .A07/2," .003,/+" .00f,
Standard cylinder bore, mm................., 52 mm. 63 mm. 71 mm
Standard cylinder bore, inches............. 2.047" 2.480" 2.795"
Inlet valve tappet (motor cold)............ .003" .o03"
Exhaust valve tappet (motor cold)..... .003" .o03"
Inlet valve stem ln suide....................... .002" .oo:!"
Exhaust valve stem ln guide................. .003)/2"
Valve seat angie.............. -oo5"
45 deg. 45 deg.
Ignition advance (on piston)... IAa"
Automatic advance in retarded 7Az"
position. B.T.D.C.
Breaker point gap (Wico-Pacy)........... .015"
Breaker point gap (Lucas)................... .012" .012" .a12"
Spark plqg 9ap................. .018" .018" .018',.
Con-rod big-end clearance....... .007/2,, .003/+,, -001"
Va,lve Timinq
fniet opens Sefore T.D.C 25 deg. 25 deg.
Inlet closes after B.D.C.. 70 deg. 65 deg.
Exhaust opens before 8.D.C.................. 70 deg. 65 deg.
Exhaust closes after T.D.C.................... 25 deg, 25 deg.
Carburetor Settines
C_arburetor bore si"i2e....... 5/^ tt .-:l !"
\{ain jet si2e................. 75 90 150
Throttle valve number.
Needle :et size...-..---..-"....'. .' ' ' ' 5 4 /4. 6/4
.106 .1065 .1065
*125 model Piston Clearance-Round
finish or .004,, cam optional.
B.S.A. 250 c.c. S.V. Model Cl0-Clearance and settings are generally
as for the 250 c.c. o.H.v. Model c11 listed above, with the iollori'irig excep-
tions: Tappets-Inlet .004,,, Exhaust .006,,,
Main Jet No. 90.
Spark Plugs-t/z" lerlgth reach plugs standard except Model C10 *.ith
aluminum head requires long reach plug and model B31 when fitted \ltth
aluminum head requires long reach plug.
valve Timing Note-The opening and closing points specified are urith
the tappets set at standard clearances.
CLEARANCES AND SETTINGS 225
Clearances and Settings
B.S.A. o.H.v. o.H.v. A7

Clearances and Settings 833, B34 Star-Twin
Piston Clea?ances-Pistons cam-
grounal (.006"-.010" cam), skirt
tapered
Soliil Skirt flpe
Bottom of skirt......... .005" .003r/2" .004"
Top of skirt.................... .007" .005" .o05a/2"
Loinre" ring
rands............:......................... .0L4" .or.0" .072"
Second and top ring Iands..... .018" .014" .016"
Ilepolite "SW" Typo
Split Skirt Pistons .012" catn
Bottom of skirt.............. .002" .002"
rop oi strirt.......................:.:.:................... .002" .002"
Piston ring joint gap...... .018" .072', .074"
_ (very light tap or hand push fit).....
Piston pin in rod (reamed)
(finger push fit)....... .00Y2" 'oo7/+" .001/+,,
Piston pin in rod (honed)
(free fit)....... .001" .001/2" .00r/2"
Standard cylinder bore, mm................. 85 mm. 66 mm. 70 mm.
Standard cylinder bore, inches. 3.346" 2.598" 2.756"
Inlet valve tappet (motbr cold)............ .003" .010" .010"
Exhaust valve tappet (motor cold)..... .003,, .010,, .010,,
fnlet valve stem in suide....................... .003" .002'' .002"
Elxhaust valve stem -in guide................ .005" .004" .004"
lgnition advance (on pislon)... 7a" L7/ez"
Breaker point gap......................... ...... .0\2" .072" .012"
Spark plug point gap...... .018" ,018" .018"
Con-rod big-end clearance....... .001" .001" .001"
Valve Timing
Inlet opens before T.D.C 25 deg. 30 deg. 30 deg.
Inlet clbses after B.D.C......................... : 65 deg. 70 deg. 70 deg.
Exhaust opens before B.D.C.................. 65 deg. 65 deg. 65 deg.
Elxhaust closes after T.D.C.................... 25 deg. 25 deg. 25 deg.
77/e" 7" 71Ae"

Main jet size fwitfr air 1?0 160 770
Main jet
Main iet size (withnrr+
(without air 200 770 180 or 190
Throttle valve number....... ,l /tr 6/4 6/4
.1065 .707 .108
Tappet Clearances-500 c.c. Vertical Twtn Motlels-Note-The clear-

ances specified above are for the 1951 and later models. On motor numbers
up to number XA7-601-.003,, clearance; on motor numbers after XA7-601
up to and including 1950 models-.015,, clearance; 1gE1 and later-.010,,
clearance.
Piston ClearancesJVlodel 833 antl 834-These models when fitted w"ith
the aluminum cylinder block and head, can be fitted with .001/2" less
piston clearance than listed above for the iron cylinder, for averag'e service.
E or racihg:, the piston clearances listed above are suitable for the aluminum
cylinder.
226 B,S.A. SERVICING
Section 3
MOTOB, SERVICING
(a) L?5 c.c. Motor
TOP OVERHAUL AND CARBON REMOVAL

Under average conditions a "top" motor overhaul involving carbon
removal and piston ring replacement is beneficial at intervals of 3000-4000
miles. Need for this servicing may be indicated by loss of compression
resulting' frorn worn piston rings and loss of power due to this cause, as
well as carbon obstruction in the exhaust port'
Top Overhaul Procedure-The gas tank should first be removed or
gas line disconnected and tank securing bolts removed, enabling the tank
to be raised sufficiently to allow clearance for cylinder removal' Remove
carburetor; unscrew exhaust pipe to cylinder nut. If this is very tlght,
apply penetrating oil. Remove spark plug and cylinder head, followed by
cylinder block.
Parts Examination-The top piston ring should be removed and placed
squarely in the unworn end of the cylinder to check for gap. If gap is in
excess of .030", rings should be replaced. Where possible, it is advisable
to measure piston and cylinder with a micrometer. Piston replacement
is advisable when piston skirt clearance is more than .002" in excess of
standard clearances of .004" at bottom of skirt and.OO5l/z at top of skirt.
Replacement is also advisable where piston ring grooves are worn to g-ive
.007" or more side clearance on rings. Reboring and oversize piston fitting
is advisable when cylinder wear at the top end of ring travel is in excess
of .008". In instances where piston replacement is being made due to piston
condition, for the best results cylinder should be rebored if wear exceeds
.004".
Piston Iiing Replacement-It is most important to thoroughly scrape
all carbon from bottom of the piston grooves. A hacksaw blade and section
of old piston ring are useful tools for this job. Note there is a piston
ring stop peg in the bottom of each ring groove. Rings should be first
checked for gap by placing squarely in the lower unlorn end of the
cylinder, and the joints filed as necessary, to give .010" joint gap. ll'hen
fitting ring:s ohto piston, note that they are located so that joints register
with the stop pegs, as the rings are cut away at inside of joint to fit over
stop pegs in piston ring groove. It is a good idea to make a pencil mark
on the piston skirt directly below each stop peg, so that when the cylinder
is being lowered it can be observed that the ring joints are located directly
over stop pegs.
Con-Rod-Big-end Bearing-When the cylinder is removed, the condition
of the con-rod big-end bearing should be checked. This is best done by
grasping the connecting rod and lifting straight up and down. Normally,
there should be no perceptible shake. It is possible to continue operation
for 3000 or 4000 miles further when con-rod big-end clearance is under
.005". When in exeess of .005" further wear becomes very rapid and con-rod
and big-end assembly replacement should be undertaken as soon as possible.
Con-Rod Piston Pin Bushing-ft is unlikely that this will require
replacing until complete overhauling and big-end servicing is to be done,
but replacement is advisable when pin clearanee exceeds .003".
MOTOR SERVICING 227
Ill. 6?
B.S.A. 125 c.c. IIOTOR, AND GEARBOX LNIT PA-RTS ASSEIIBLY

This view of the 8.S.A.125 c.c. porver unit dismantled shows the layout of all parts.
Procedure for complete overhaul corerjng disman:ling and reassembling is covered on
pages 229 to 234"
too B.S.A. SERVICING
Removal of Piston from Rod-After removal of circlips, piston pin

ean be tapped out. Note-It is most important to support piston well from
the opposite side when tapping out to avoid bending connecting rod, and
ifpin is noticeably tight, piston should be warmed before removing.
Carbon Bemoval-Carbon can be removed from the exhaust port quite
satisfactorily by scraping. Take care not to damage the cylinder bore
during this operation. As an alternative to scraping, cylinder block can
be submerged for an hour or two in a hot caustic soda and water solution,
and then flushed. Ttris will clean the cylinder block very effectively and
will also remove the paint. To avoid rusting, block should be given a thin
coat of heat resisting black paint such as stove pipe enamel, after this
treatment.
Note-The cylinder head being of aluminum, must not be placed in
caustic soda solution. Carbon from the cylinder head can be carefully
removed by scraping, Avoid scratching surface during this operation.
Carbon should be removed from piston crowa and the piston ring grooves.
Note-As the piston is of aluminum, it should not be placed in the caustic
soda solution
TOP OVEEHAUL BEASSEMBLY

1. Make sure that all traces of old cylinder base gasket are removed
from crankcase and cylinder base surfaces. Crankcase should be flushed
out by pouri.ng in some light oil, revolving flyr;vheels and removing drain
piqg.
2. If piston has been removed, before refitting to rod, it is opportune
to enter piston and rings into cylinder to confirm that piston rings are
seating fully into g'rooves, and that the cutaways at the back of piston
rings registering with the stop pegs, are sufficientiy deep, ailowing rings
to seat right down to g'rooves. ff difficulty is eircountered in entering'
piston and rings into cylinder, the trouble is likely due to carbon in bottom
of ring I'rooves, insufficient ring joint gap, ring joints not registering with
stop pegs, or ring cutaway not deep enouS'h for stop pegs.
3. Warm piston before refitting pin. Make sure that lock rings are
seated right into grooves. Locate piston rings on piston so that joints
register with stop pegs and pencil mark piston skirt in line with pegs to
ensure correct location as lowerihg' cylinder.
4. Before fitting cylinder head, it is opportune to check on the ignition
timing. Note, breaker points should just commence to open rvhen piston
is %2" before top of stroke. Before checking timing, breaker points should
be cleaned and set to correct gap of .015" fully open (Wico-Pacy) and
.012" (Lucas coil ignition).
5. Make sure cylinder joint head surfaces are c1ean. tr.it cylinder head
washers and nuts, and tighten progressively in diagonal order.
6. Carburetor and air cleaner should be cleaned before refitting. Note
that carburetor clip screw is securely tightened and earburetor located
vertical.
7. Exhaust pipe and sileneer should be cleaned if noticeably choked
with carbon. A cork can be fitted to the cylinder end of pipe and the pipe
propped up and fitled from the exhaust outlet with caustic soda solution.
Altow to soak for an hour or two, then flush out with water hose.
I
MOTOR, SERVICING ,DO
Complete Motor Overhaul

Complete motor overhaul is not normally necessary until noticeable
con-rod up and down big-end clearance develops. Although it is possible
to continue operation for 3000 or 4000 miles after perceptible con-rod
straight up and down elearance appears, when this exceeds .005", dismant-
ling and reconditioning should be undertaken.
Eemoving Motor from Frame-Disconnect carburetor throttle control,
unserewiqg the top ring nut, and withdrawing throttle. Disconnect'magneto
li,ght wire, exhaust pipe, rear chain guard, gas pipe, and clutch cable. Note
that before removing motor from frame, unless good work bench faeilities
aro available, it is generaJly an advantage to leave the motor in frame
and rear chain connected, until engine sprocket and magneto fl5rwheel nuts
I are removed. tr'or removal of these parts, hig:h gear should be engaged,
and rear brake applied. A few sharp raps with hammer on box wrench
handle will aid remova"I.
I
MOTOR DISMANILING PBOCEDIIBD

1. Remove the footchange and kickstarter pedals.
2. Drain the gearbox and primary drive oil by removal of hexagon
-
drain plug under gearbox.
3. Remove five screws securing' primary drive and clutch cover on
right side. Cover ca^rr now be removed.
4. Remove engine sprocket nut. Engqge high gear if motor is still
in frame. Apply brake, hit box wrench handle a few blows with a hammer.
5. Remove magneto breaker point cover, cam screw, and w.ithdraw
cam,
6. Remove three serews that secure magneto outer housing (Wico-
Paey). Disconneet light wire and spark wire from plug, and withdraw
housing.
7. Undo magzreto flywheel nut. Strike box wrench ha:rdle sharp blows
with hammer. Manufacturer's tool number 61-81gg, which threads- on the
flywheel hub threads, should be used for withdrawing the fl5rwheel
(Illustration 68). If this is not available, tool can be m-ade up iro* ,
length of pipe threaded to match the flywheel hub threads at one end.
A. nut should be brazed on the opposite end of pipe, and a suitable centre
screw installed. End of centre screw of puller should be counter-bored
5/16 diarneter 3/8" deep to fit over extended
end of flywheel shaft to avoid
damag'e to shaft end whieh is of Iight section. Aftei applying a moderate
amount of pressure on the centre screw, strike a srrarp btow ririth ha**"".
This will "jar''' flywheel off taper.
8. with Lucas coil rgnition Generator, remove B screws securing
outer cover, remove cover and the four la" ttuts securing' stato,r, remove
stator, and centre bolt securing cam and rotor. Remove r6tor from crank-
shaft with B.S.A. toot No. 90-297.
9. Motor drive sprocket is removed by B.s.A. toor number 61-198b. Tf
this is not available, an ordinary type of gear puller can be used.
10. Arternative Methods of wico-pacy Fr'ywheel sprocket Remova"r
'nd
neither of the manufacturer's tools or suitable substitu-tes are available,
-ff
removal can be effected 4s fell6\Ms;- place a wedge between the flyvirheel
and crankcase via the openirlg at the bottom, stacken the flSruvheel nut a
Ifl, 68
125 c.c. FLYW'I{EEL PfLLER

B.s.A. tool 61-3188 should be used
lor removing the lYico-Pacy type
fi]'sLeel.
few turns only. Place box wrench over shaft against nut. Strike a ferv
sharp blows with hammer. Make sure the Wedge is actually bearing tight
between flywheel and inner crankcase. Engine sprocket ean be similarly
removed. To avoid damage to shaft threads, make sure that nut is turned
on within about Yz" of hub.
11. After fly\,sheel is removed, rernove the fl1'wheel inside cover secured
by two screws 'firithin the flprheel housing, and three screws outside.
Cover is located with a "dowel" at front and rear, Tap lightiy at rear if
sticking is experienced. ff not already removed, remove carburetor, cylinder
head and cylinder block.
12. Remove the crankcase securing screws all from the left side (11).
Note-Two of these screws are loeated near the c;zlilder base.
13. Separating Crankcases-Lower the assembly fairly quickly from
a height of about 6" above bench, contacting bench with crankshaft drirze
end. This should separate cases. ff it does not, try lowering onto flylvheel
end of crankshaft. Care should be taken, however, when applying force
to this end, because of its small diameter. If cases do not separate
immediately, and all screws have been removed, trouble is likely due to
ball races being a rather tight fit on the crankshaft. A further cause of
sticking to,gether may be the tightness of the doweis that fit through the
top front and top rear crankcase bolt holes. These dowels can be carefully
driven out to one side, using a 3/8t' bolt.
14. ff sticking still occurs, heat crankcase. Boiling water temperature
or slighUy greater heat may be required. It should then be possible to
separate crankcase with baII races freeing from erankcase and coming out
on shafts.
15. Note:-X'or reassembly, it will be simpler if ball races are removed
from shaft. This can easily be done with a bearing or sprocket puller.
Application of some penetrating oil wiil ease removal. BalI raees should
be refitted to the crankcases or replacements fitted if necessary, and
reassembly effected with the ball races in the crankcases.
16. There may be shim washers on the drive shaft between the
flylvheel and ball bearing. Note these are refitted when assembling.
Gearbox-It will not be necessary to disturb the gear assembly unless
it is desired to fullY dismantle.
PAB,TS EXAlIIINATION AND REPI,ACEMENTS
After dismantling is completed, all parts should be washed, joint
surfaees cleaned, and any high spots on joint surfaces caused by efforts
at separation of crankcases, should be carefully relieved.
MOTOR SERVICING 23t
Cra.nksha,ft BalI Bearings-Unless perceptible up a,rrd down play at

crankshaft ends could be felt before dismantling, it is unlikely that
replacements will be necessary. When dismantled, however, if there !s
noticeable play in bearings or evident roqg'hness after thoroughly cieaning,
and lubricating, it is wise to replace.
Crankshaft oil seals will not require replacing unless crankshaft ball
bearings have been operating' in a very badly worn condition, and there
is no longer pereeptible drag on shaft w'hen inserted through oil seal.
Note-removal and refitting of crankshaft oil seais and ball bearings,
requires heating of cases to at least boiling water temperature.
Crankshaft Assernbly-Unless special equipment is avaiiable for
separating and reassembling flylvheels, it is recommended that the complete
assembly be obtained. Illustration 69 shows manufacturer's tool number
61-3206, used for supporting the flywheel assembiy for dismantling and
reassembling. Note-to gain access to the erankpin ehds for pressing
out, the fl5nvheel outside covers must tre removed. These are easiiy pried
out with a screwdriver. A removal slot is provided. If the existing flywheel
assembly is to be serviced, a connecting rod with crankpin and bearing
rollers fitted, should be obtained. It will invariably be found that wear is
such that none of these original components are suitable for further service.
F1y'r,vheel Alignment-Reassembling flywheels in the manufacturer's
jig illustrated, gives an approximate alignment but alignment should be
checked with a straight edge across flywheel faces at right angles to
crankpin, or in special alignment jig. See section 1 of Chapter Sixteen.
Iil. 69
tr25 c.c. I.LIII}IEEL JIG

ts.S.-\. tool 61-3206 is Lrsed for flywheel sep-
aration and assembiy. \\'hen dismantling, the
uppermost flt'$'heel is supported by the t1\'o
steel support strips shown and cranlipin
driven out with hammer ud drift.
11'hen assembllng, the same jig is used. This
prolioes ar appro\imate aligDmeni of fty-
$-heels but filal alignment should be effected
checking in lathe, special alignment Jig or
.riih straight edge across flywheet rims at
right angles to crankpin. (See chapter 16,)
125 c.c. MOTOR REIISSEIIBLY

1. f it ball races into crankcases. Heat to boiling water temperature
for insertion. Note-An oil seal is fitted between the two ball bearing
races on the drive side. This fits with the open side of the oil seal, towards
inside of crankcase. Left crankcase oil seal fits on the outside of ball
bearing with open end of oil seal faeing in.
2. Support right crankcase blocked up on bench top, sufficient for
shaft bench clearance, with inside of case up.
B.S.A. SERVICING
3. ff gears have been removed, reassembly procedure is as follows:

tr'it the layshaft large gear first with the recess side down towards right
case. Next fit layshaft sliding gear with dogs engaging with gear already
fitted. Note that g:roove in this gear engages on the shifter block.
4. Engage mainshaft sliding gear "ring" in groove on layshaft g'ear.
Note--Mainshaft sliding gear is fitted with dqgs up towards left side.
Hold in position while slipping mainshaft through.
5. Observe that the spring loaded ball is in position and engaged wittr
the gear selector notches.
6. Operation of the g:earshift ean be observed before fitting the left
crankcase by fitting gearshift pedal and operating'. Note that gears and
shafts 'will require revolving to enable gear changes to be made. After
ascertaining that the gear assembly appears in order, proceed with crank-
case reassembly as follows:
7. Install flyr,rheel assembly into right crankcase. Note that short
flywheel shaft goes into right case.
8. Coat crankcase joint surfaces with jointing compound.
9. Gear Inrlicator-Inner Level-If this has been removed see that it
is refitted to the left crankcase and secured by fitting and tightening the
indicator pointer. When the left crankcase is lo&'ered down into position,
it should be observed that the bail end of this gear indicator inner lever
engages with the "U" slot provided for it in the gear selector. This can
be viewed between the crankcases just before they come together,
10. Tap left crankcase lightly to bring joint surfaces together'. Note
There should only be a small amount of "back lash" felt when it is
attempted to turn the gear indicator shaft. ff there is a very g'reat deal
of free movement it can be assumed that the inner lever did not engage
with the "U" slot and cases should be immediately separated and another
attempt made.
11. Tightening Crankcases-Nothing more than a few light raps u'ilh
a soft hammer shouid be necessary to bring the crankcases together if
everything is in order. After crankcases are fitted together, the 11
securing screws should be fitted and tightened securely, and the crankshaft
checked for endplay. Endplay is not essential providing the flyrvheels ale
fairly free to revolve, and before assuming that endpiay is insufficient.
if there is a stiffness, a rap or two should be given to either end of the
crankshaft. ff this does not free-up, it may be that additional end clearance
is required, and one or more shim washers should be removed to proride as
close to .005" as possible.
13. Kickstarter-Fit kickstarter spring onto starter shaft, follorr e,1
by circuiar plate. Assemble onto gear sfiaft, place one end of starier
spring into recess at the rear of cases above the dolvel hole. Apply o:.re
turn of tension to the spring and push the starter into position, ."r.'ith the
sector gear against stop below the dowel hole.
Clutch Servicing'-The clutch can be serviced independent of the
crankcase. Illustration 70 shows factory service tool No. 61-3191 for
compressing' clutch springs to enable retaining circlip to be removed and
clutch dismantled. If ciutch plate corks are noticeably worn or burned,
repiacement is strongly recommended. Thickness of corks in new plates
is approximately slrrrt and when worn down to thz", replacement is essential.
The steel plates should be examined at the same time, and if scored or
warped, should be replaced. If the factory tool for compression of clutch
MOTOR SERVICING 233
springs is not available, the job can be accomplished with a large "G"
clamp and a small block of wood to bear on the centre of clutch outer
plate. Note-It is not necessary to remove the inner clutch hub unless it
is desired to remove the mainshaft or replace the mainshaft right side
ball bearing.
Ill. t0
CLITCII SPIIING CO]IPIiDSSOR
B.S.A. tool 61-3191 shouid be used if available
for compression of clutch sprints enabling
circlip to be removed as illustrated for clutctrl
dismantling. Clutch springs require com-
pressing in same manrer to replace circlip
lvhen assembling.
Prima,ry Chain-The primary chain is not adjustable. When up and

down molrement midway betrveen sprockets exceeds 1", replacement is
recommended,
Primary Drivo Rea,ssembly-When reassembling' clutch, note cork and
steel plates are alternated, springs are compressed in the same manner
as for removal. Note that the short clutch pushrod with the mushroom
end, is installed in mainshaft before outer clutch ptrate is fitted, The
engine sprocket nut should be hammer-tightened before fitting outer cover.
Note that fibre washers are fitted under the heads of the primary drive
case cover serews. A nev,r gasket. should be fitted, and it is advisable to
coat this with jointing compound as the standard gasket is not quite
sufficiently thick to ensure complete oil tightness in all instances.
Rear Drive Sprocket Nut-Note that this is left hand thread. ,sprocket
should be replaced if noticeably worn.
Before Eefitting Magneto Housing-Clutch pushrod must be fitted
and rubber bush fitted on pushrod outer end. Note that the tubular dowel
surrounding the rear screw, is in position either in the cover or in the
crankcase. ff cover will not fit on fully, it may be due to elutch adjusting
screw requiring slackening off.
Magneto Fl5rwheel F'itting-(Wico-Pacy)-Note key is in position on
shaft, hammer tighten nut. After fitti4g the magneto unit, note the smaJl
key is in position on fiy'lvheel shaft and fit cam. Tighten cam screw
securely. Ignition timing is varied by rotating the mag:neto armature
ptrate. Breaker points should first be set at .015" gap fuliy open, then
revolve motor until piston is 6Az" ltefore top of stroke. Breaker points
should just be commencing' to separate in this position. If not, slacken
the three magneto armature plate securing screws, and rotate plate until
breaker points just separate. Tighten the screws in this position.
Reassemtrly of the Lucas Genera,tor-It is important that the steady
bearing is correctly aligned during the refitting operation. The four contact
plate fixing screws should be slackened off. The aJternator fixing bolts
and rotor retaining bolt tightened, followed by the tightening of the contact
plate fixing screws.
The fixing screw holes in the contact plate are drilled oversize, for
aligrrment purposes. Alignment will be correct if the procedure detailed,
iS followed. Timing is adjustecl by slackening the four screw.s (.,8,, Illus-
tration 80) and rotating the contact plate anti-ciockwise to retard timing,
and clockwise to advance. Correct setting-breaker points just opening
piston %2" before top of stroke. (Breaker point gap fully opened-.012,,.)
POINTS TO REMEMBER--B.S.A. 125 c.c. REASS$MBLY

1. Note flSrwheel shaft threads are in good condition and the left fty-
wheel shaft (ma,gneto) end, undamag'ed, before installing.
2. Plstori pin bush is more easily replaced when dismanUed.
3. Note that the two crankcase dowel tubes at the front and rear
engine to frame bolts, through crankcases, are fitted before tightening up
screws.
4. Note-Rear drive sprocket nut is only left thread. To tighten eng.ine
sproeket and fll ryheel shaft nuts on bench, these can be tightened against
one another by holding one nut and hammer tightening the other, then
reversing the operation. Likewise rear drive sprocket nut can be hammer
tightened by holding one of the crankshaft nuts. As an alternative, vrhen
crankcase only is assembled, it can be ilstalled in frame, rear chain fitted,
and brake applied for tightening of sha.ft nuts, and further assembly cal
be completed in frame.
(b) 250 c.c. S.V. anil O.H.V. Motors
TOP OVER,HAUL PROCEDUREI

Dism.antling 250 c,c. S.V. Moilel-Dismantling is quite straightforward.
Spark plug should first be removed, followed by cylinder head, carburetor,
exhaust pipe, and cylinder block. Note one cylinder base nut is within
tappet chamber.
25O c.c. O.H.V. Model Dismantling-Moto,r should be revolved so piston
is at top of compression stroke. This is easily located if igrrition switch is
turned on and starter turni:cl siowly, until ignition waradng light goes out
or ammeter needle returns to zero. Parts should be removed in the follow-
lng orden
1. Gas tank.
2.Rocker box cover.
3.Spark plug.
4.Remove the cylinder head nuts (6). If head stieks to barrel, free
by use of a block of w'ood under exhaust port and hammer.
5. Remove cylinder head sufficienfly to enable pushrods to be dis-
engaged from rockers, and lift pushrods out.
6. Remove cylinder base nuts. Revolve motor until piston is at bottom
of stroke, and lift cylinder block off.
7. Piston removal from rod is not essential but enables a better job to
be done of cleaning carbon from the bottom of ring grooves and mea;uring
piston clearances. Piston can be removed after prying out one loek ring,
MOTOR SERVICING 235
ru. ?1
B.S,A. 260 c.o. S.V.

TAPPET ADTUSTMENT
AND TIMING GEAR,S
Model C10 250 c.c. S.V. valw
settlngs are .004" inlet, .006"
exhaust.
Noto that on Model M20 500 c.c.
S.V., settings ar€ .008" inlet,
.012" exhaust. On this moalel
a verY gradual lift cm is reed
md it is important adjustment
be made at the fully closed
area of cam. Adjut inlet when
exhaust tappet is Just lifting.
AdjNt exhaust taptrret when ln-
let valve has just closed..
All settings are for cold motor.
IU. ?2
B.S.A. !50 c.c. O.H.I'. ]IODEL

C11 PCSIIROD ASSE]IBLY
Note the c]'linder head securing
stud nuts are located betr-een
ihe cylinder fins.
Ouiside pushrod ls lnlet, inside
pushrod is exhaust.
Tappet adjustment is located on
valve rcckeis. ac€essible Fhen
rocker box cover is removeal.
This is secured with a central
bo1i.
On the 350 and 500 c.c. O.H.V,

sirdles. tapper adjustment is
located at bottom of pushrods.
and tapping pin out from the other side. Piston should be wetl supported
on the side to which it is tapped to avoid possibility of bending connecting
rod. If pin requires more than very light tapping to remove, it should be
first warmed.
PARTS EXAMINATION
After dismantling has been completed and parts cieaned up, a careful
examination should be made to determine the servicing and replacements
necessary. I'irst of all, a check should be made on the con-rod big-end.
There should not be more than barely perceptibie straight up and down
shake, and assuming'this is in good condition, crankcase can be flushed
out and covered up, awaiting completion of bench work, and reassembly.
Valves-All carbon and burned on deposits should be thoroughly
removed from valve stems, and valves refaced. Valves should be replaced
if stem wear exceeds .005", and where heads are worn or warped to extent
that a sharp edge results at head after refacing.
Valvo Guides-Valve guides should be replaced, if worn to give notice-
able clearance tested with a 7te" .002" oversize reseating pilot stem. Valve
seats shouid be reconditioned with an electric valve seat grinder if availabte.
When valves are accurately refaced and seats recond.itioned with high speed
electric grinder equipment, no grinding-in is necessary.
Valvo Springs-Standard spring lengths are 2,, on the S.V. model, and
on the O.H.V, model 2" outer spriqg, 1sls" inner spring. Springs should be
repiaced when shortened %" or more.
Piston Rings-Piston rings should be reptraced if gap, when placed in
lower unworn end of cylinder, exceeds .030,,.
Piston and Cylinder-Piston should be replaced when skirt clearance
is .003" in excess of standard clearances as shown on trrag'e 225, or when
ring grooves are worn to give in excess of .007" ring side clearance in
g'rooves. Cylinder reboring and oversize piston is recornmended when t'ear
at top of cylinder exceeds .008".
TOF OVEEHAUI, REASSEMBLY

Gaskets-A complete set of, factory gaskets should be used, which will
ensure an oil tight job, if joint surfaces are well cleaned and adequately
tightened.
Order of parts reassembly is just the reverse of dismantling. If piston
has been removed, note that lock rings are properly fitted right down into
piston grooves. Lubricate piston and rings before fitting on cylinder. Valve
spri4g compressing methods are illustrated in ,Section 1 of Chapter 16.
A copper asbestos type head gasket is used on both the S.V. and O.H.V.
motors. It is advisable to replace on every top overhaul. Note-On the
O.H.V. motor, the gasket is marked "top" at one side. This side should be
Installing Pushrods-O.H.V. Motlel-After cyliader head is fitted but

not lowered down, the pushrods should be installed and engaged with the
rocker ball ends. See Illustration 72 showing pushrod assembly. piston
should be at top of compression stroke-
MOTOR SERVICING ao I
rtl. 73
B.S.A. 250 c.c. SIDE VALYE

CYT,TNDER IIEA} BOLT
TIGIITENING OBDER
The numbers illustrate the recom-
mended sequence of final ti8htening
of cylinder head bo1ts. Cylinder bolts
should be tightened down grad.ually
and given final tightening to 35-40
foot ]bs. torque in order shom.
Carbntrotor-Carburetor should be cleaned before refitting' Refer to

Section 10 of Chapter 4, or Section 3 of Chapter 16, Note that carburetor
flange gasket is fitted.
Tappet Adjustments-After cylinder base and cylinder head nuts have
been tightened, tappets should be adjusted. See Illustration 72, showing:
O.H.V. adjustment and Illustration 71, showing S.V. adjustment.
250 c.c. CRANI(CASE SERVICING

Crankcase dismantling will not normally be necessary until 20-30,000
miles have been covered, and excessive con-rod big-end clearance or
flyi;vheel mainshaft bearing elearance has developed.
Removing Crankcase from Frame-Assumir\g that the top overhaul
dismantling has already been completed, proceed as follows:
1. Draih Oil Tank and disconnect oil lines.
2. Disconnect generator wires.
3. Remove left footrest, followed by primary chaincase, Remove engine
sprocket nut.
4. Remove clutch spring nuts following by clutch springs and elutch
plates.
5. Remove clutch hub nut and withdraw clutch hub with B.S.A.
extractor No. 61-1912. This screws into threads provided in the clutch hub.
C1utch sprocket, primary chain and engine sprocket can now be removed,
6. Remove inner half of primary chaincase, attached to crankcase by
three bolts.
7. Remove the front engine plates, slacken rear engine plate to frame
bolts and remove bolts securing rear engine plates to crankcase. Motor can
now be withdrawn.
250 c.c. CRANI(CASD DISMANTLING
After crankcase has been removed from frame, remove crankcase
drain p1ug. Clean down outside of crankcase and proceed as follows:
1. Remove generator chain outer cover.
2. Remove the large sprocket nut, Note-Lock washer tab must first
be folded over. The small sprocket on g:enerator need not be removed.
Slacken generator, securing'band screw, and rernove generator.
3. Slacken clamp bolt below distributor and remove distritrutor unit

complete.
4. Remove the four serews outside timing cover at front and below,
and the two screws to the rear inside cover: Timing cover can now be
withdrawn.
5. Withdraw the camshaft complete.
6. Remove mainshaft pinion nut, withdraw pinion with B.S.A. puller
No. 61-1735 (see Illustration ?5).
7, The oil pump drive spindle which meshes with the worm on main-
shaft pinion, is seeured by. a dowel. This is thread.ed to accommodate one
of the timing cover screws for removal purposes. (See Illustration 64.)
The pump drive spindle can now be removed upwards.
8. Remove the six crankcase stud nuts. 6
9. Separating Crankcases-To separate crankcases, lower the crank-
case assembly fairly quiekly from height of about 6,, above the bench,
striking the drive side flywheel shaft end on bench top. This shoulcl
separate the cases. If cases do not separate immediately, check to make
sure that all crankcase securing stud nuts have been removed before
repeating.
10. Flywheel Separation-After one crankpin nut has been undone,
the flyuvheels are easily separated by driving a r,vedge between flywheels
near crankpin, as illustrated in Section 1 of Chapter 16.
CRANKCASE PARTS EXAItrINATION AND R,EPLACEMENTS

Con-rotl Big-end Bearings-In some instances replacement of rollers
only, may suffice, but if very perceptible shake in con-rod was present,
replacement of con-rod, rollers and crankpin should be made.
Piston Pin Eushing-Replace if pin clearance exceeds .002,,.
F11"lyheel Mainshaft Bearings-A ball bearing is used on the drive
shaft and a bronze bush for the timing side flywheel shaft. Replacement
should be made when there is in excess of .004,,-.00b,, up and dorr.m
clearance. When there is noticeable roughness or signs of rusting.of ball
bearing, replacement is advisable, without excessive elearance being
present, as when in such condition, rapid wear may suddenly take place.
crankcase should be heated to at least boiiing water timperatuie for removal
and installing of ball raee and bronze bushing. Note-Bronze bushing
should be honed out after installing to give tt .007,,-.OO7a/2,, shaft clearance,
Carn Levers-Cam levers should be examined on the cam bearing
surfaces, and replaced if noticeably worn. Where cam levers are badly
worn, the cams should also be examined and cam gear assembly replaced
if there are signs of considerable wear.
Oil Pump-Oil pump should not be removed if oiiing system has been
functioning satisfactorily, and if there is no roughness or stiffness evident,
when the pump is revolved by drive spindle. Check the tlvo securing bolts
below pump for tightness.
250 c.c. CRIINI(CASE REASSEMBLY

Assembling Con-rod Big-end-Coat crankpin with thick grease to
locate rollers in position for slipping on connecting rod. Refer to section
1 of Chapter 16 for F lpvheel Assembly and Alignment details,
MOTOR SE}RVICING 239
Apply jointing compound to crankcase joint surfaces. Enter the

fl1'wheel assembly into the drive side crankcase halfi which can be
conveniently blocked up on bench top. Note that spacer collar fits next
to crankcase bearing, and the oil flinger is fitted with the boss side
towards flywheel. E it the right crankcase half and tap lightly, noting
that the joint surfaces come right together. Then bolt up.
Timing Gear-tr'it the timing pinion key and tap on timing pinion.
I'itlock washer and nut. Hammer tighten nut and fold over lock washer.
Next, fit the cam followers and eam gear. Note that the mark on the
camshaft pinion registers with the mark on the mainshaft pinion. Note
that the oil drive spindle dowel has been replaced if removed, followed
by the plain washer that fits in crankcase hole after dowel.
Timing Gea,r Cover-!'it gasket and timing gear cover. Note the
two long screws fit inside generator chain housing al tear. Tighten
screws securely.
Generator-tr'it generator, chain and drive sprocket; tighten camshaft
driving sprocket nuts securely, and fold over lock washer. Adjust chain to
}10" s1ack. X'ill chaincase about t/z full with grease. Install cover with
new gasket. Next, replace distributor (see "fg:nition Timing," Page 248).
The remainder of assembly should be carried, out as listed under
"Top Overhaul." Where good work bench facilities are available, it will
be found most convenient to complete top overhaul assembly on the
bench, but as an alternative, the crankcase assembly can be installed
in frame, and top overhaul assembly proceeded with after crankcase is
fitted to frame.
Crankcase to Frame Bolts-It is most important to securely tighten
the crankcase to frame bolts.
(c) 350 c.c. and 500 c.c. O.H.V. Single Motors
TOP MOTOR, OVER,ILA.UL PROCEDUR,E

Disma,ntling-Dismantling procedure on these motors is very
straightforward, F irst, shut off gas tap, remove gas line and g:as tank'
Next, remove spark plug and carburetor; disconndct the cylinder head
to-rear-frame support, compression release cable and exhaust pipe.
Cylinder Head ll,emoval-Disconnect the rocker oil feed line and
rocker oil drain pipe, Slacken the large gland nut at top of pushrod
cover tube, at cylinder head. Remove the tappet inspection cover at the
bottom of pushrod tube and undo the two pushrod tube trase nuts securing
to crankcase.
Cylinder Head Bolts-IInscrew the four long bolts that secure
cylinder head and cylinder block to crankcase. Apply wrench to the top
hlxagon. Note-Do not unscrew the large diameter hexagons in the
crankcase.
. Lifting Off Cylintler Ilead-The eylinder head complete with pushrod
cover tube, ean now be raised, and pushrods lifted off tappets and aliowed
to drop. The cylinder head and pushrod tube ean now be lifted up and
forward clear of cYlinder block.
"Gold Star" Cylinder Head Remova,l-On the 1940 and earlier "Gold
Star" models with aluminum cylinder and head, head is secured by nine
bolts. X'our of these are the long main securing bolts, common to the
standard 350 c.c. and 500 c.c. O.H.V. models. Three short bolts are located
between these at the rear, front and left side. Two further bolts are Iocated
at the sides of the pushrod housing. On the 7947-7952 "GoId Star" models,
eight head bolts are used. Irt addition to the standard four long bolts in
the crankcase, securing both head and bloek, a short bolt is located in
bet'w,een eaeh of these. Note that one of these is located on the right
side, and it is only accessible when the tappet adjustment cover is removed.
TOP OVER,IIAUL REASSEMBLY
After parts examination, valve and piston servicing have been carried
out, assemble as foliows:
Piston-Note piston pin lock rings are fitted right into grooves and
piston rings have been fitted for correct joint gap and carbon cleaned
from piston grooves so that piston rings seat down fully. "Stagger" ring
joint gaps; oil piston and cylinder; fit cylinder base gasket on crankcase
and lor,ver cylinder into piston.
Fitting Cylinder Head-Note-No head gasket is used. F it the
pushrod cover tube into position in the cylinder head, bul do not tighten
the gland nut. Place the pushrods inside tube and place cylinder head
into position. Before lowering cylinder head, note that pushrods locate on
tappets, and register with rocker ball ends. Tighten the cylinder block
and head securing bolts gradually, making final tightening in a diagonal
pattern. Tighten the pushrod gland nut.
Tappets-After cylincler head is fully tightened, adjust tappets .003,,
clearance inlet and exhaust, with piston at top compression stroke.
Refit the oil feed and returrr pipes to valve rockers. Refit cylinder
head frame support, carburetor exhaust pipe, gas tank, and connect
compression release cable.
Ill. ?4
B.S.A. TT]IING GEAR }IARIiS
This illustration shows the crankshaft pinion and cam wheel g:ear markings and engagement
required for correct valve timing. This applies to all B,S.A. singles, except Models C10 and
C11, which employ only one cam wheel, v'hich is simply timed by engagement of marked teeth.
MOTOR SERVICING 241
350 c.c. AND 500 c.c. SINGLES-CR,AI|IKCIISE SEIEVICING
The general crankcase servicing procedure is similar to that already

covered on the 250 c.c. models, with the following exceptions:
Magdyno Gtean Removal-B.S.A. puller No. 61-1903, qrhich threads
into gear, should be used for removing from armature taper. Note there
is a composition oil seal washer behind the magdyno gear. Shims are fitted
'under the magdyno base on some models, to provide correct gear mesh.
When reassembling, remove shims if necessary to eliminate excessive
back lash, but note when magdJrno is tightened down the intermediate
gear should slide in and out of mesh freely.
Timtng Gear Shraft Support Plate-When refitting, note the fine
thread bolts fit into the timing gear shaft spindles, and the coarse thread
bolts into the crankcase.
Magneto Timing-Where this has been disturbed, timing should be
done when fitting magdyno gear. Refer to Section 4 of this Chapter.
Con-rod Big-end-rn cases where big-end wear has been considerable,
replacement of crankpin rollers and con-rod big-end race will likely be
necessary. Note that the big-end race should be honed out after installing
to 1.7702-7.7704", to provide approximately .001" big-end clearance.
nl. ?5
TI}IING GEAI. RE}IOIIAL

Care should be taken to avoid dam-
age to ihe threaded ho1lo1v end of
mainshaft by puUer screlv. .4. plug
as shosli can be placed in end of
shaft. or the gear nut can be undone
a felv turns only s'hile pu1ler scre\y
Dressur€ is beinB applied to start
gear off shaft.
B.S.-\. puller 61-1735 is rnade for
this jot,.
(d) 500 c.c. and 650 c.c. O.H.V. Twin Motors

Valve Sticking-Note-On the 1950-1951 650 c.c. motors especially,
need for top motor overhaul usually results from exhaust valve stems
sticking in guides, This trouble is usually indicated by misfiring and a
noticeable clicking noice developing at high speed a"fter motor is well
warmed up, resulting from valves not closing sufficiently guickly for
correct tappet clearances to be maintained. Sometimes this trouble can
be relieved by use of one of the special preparations made for remedying
valve sticking. If not relieved after treating with such a preparation, top
overhaul and valve servicing should be undertaken at the first opportunity,
otherwise exhaust valves will likely be burned and warped, and replace-
ment may become necessary. This trouble results from excessive oil
entering valve guides and burning onto stems just behind the valve head.
On the 1952 models, this trouble has been relieved by counter-boring the
valve guide to a larger diameter at the valve head end.
242 B,S,A. SERVICING
When servici4g the 1951 and earlier motors, it is recommended that

this 1952 type vatve guide be installed. It is also most important to
thoroughly polish off all burned on deposit from the exhaust valve stems
and note stems have at least .004,, valve guide clearance. ff not, polish
stems until this is provided.
TOP OVERIIAUL DISMANTLING PR,OCEDUB,E
1. Shut off gas taps, disconnect gas feed pipes and remove gas tank.
2. Remove spark plugs, carburetor, exhaust pipes with mufflers.
3. Remove the nuts securing cylinder head frame stays to rocker box
studs. Slacken nut at frame end and stays can be pivoted out of the way.
4. Remove the rocker box oil feed pipe. Remove roeker box covers,
also the top stud for rear rocker box cover should be unscrewed. Remove
the five rocker box securing bolts, and the four nuts under the rocker box at
front and rear, then rocker box can be lifted off.
5. Pushrods can now be withdrawn,
Cylinder Head Removal-Cylinder head is secured by nine bolts as
seen in rllustration 76. A ,good fitting tubular box wreneh should be
used to avoid damage to the cylinder bolt heads r.vhich are of rather
shallow depth. After bolts have been removed, if cylinder head sticks, it
can be jarred Ioose by use of a block of wood and hammer, applied under
exhaust ports or inlet manifoid.
Cylinder Block-If top overhaul is being undertaken for valve
servicing, it is inadvisable to remove the cylinder block ualess it is
d€sired to replace piston rings or measure pistons. rjnder average service
conditions, ring replacement is rarely necessary at under 10,000 miles.
rn instances where there is a noticeable ridge in cylinder at top end of
ring travel, it is advisable to remove cylinder block for piston inti ring
examination.
TVYIN MOTOR PARTS EXAMINATION AND REPLACEME}IITS
Piston R,ings-Replace if gap in cylinder exceeds .040,, when placed
squarely in lower unworn end of cylinder.
Pistons-Replace if skirt clearance is .002,,-.OOg,, in excess of
standard clearance. See page 225, ,,Clearances and Settings,, and note
difference in solid skirt and split skirt piston clearances. Replace pistons
if top ring groove is g'orn to give more than .007" ring side clearance.
_ Cylinder Reboring-If wear exceeds .00g,, at top end of ring travel,
rebo-ring and fitting oversize pistons is recommended. where nerv- pistons
are being installed as a result of excessive skirt clearance or ring groov"
wear, it is advisable to rebore cylinders if maximum weat u*ce"is .004,,.
Piston Pin Bushings-Replace if pin clearance is .008,, or greater.
Valves-Thoroughly remove all carbon and combustion deposits from
stems, and inside of exhaust guides. A E/ta,, drill is useful for cleaning
guides. Valve stems can be cieaned on a wire buffing rvheel or with emery
cloth. When being cleaned with emery cloth, finish up rvith a very firre
cloth to leave the stem surface free from scratches. check exhausl valve
stem clearance in guide, and note this should be at least .004,,.
Guiiles-Replace if wear exceeds .002,,-.008,,. Test with a dAa,, .002,,
oversize valve seat grinder pilot.
Valve Springs-Replace if 7s2,, shorter than new springs. Standard
new spring lengths, 1948-1951-ortter 2", inter 75/s,,, Springs were modified
,for 1952, heavier wire being used, outer springs of the nerv type are
shorter, length being \-,Tta", Stightty greater pressure is provided on tift
MOTOR SERVICING 243
and these new springs can be used as replacements on the earlier twin
motors.
Cam X'ollower Ilappets-Very litile wear occurs on these parts on
the 650 c.c. and 1951 and Iater b00 c,e. models. cam bearing iurfaces,
however, should be examined and the cam followers replaced iinoticeably
worn.
Cam Follower Removal-On 1950 and earlier b00 c.e. twin motors the
cam follower tappets are located in the crankcase. The two centre tappets
are contained in a single tappet guide block and the two outside tappets
are in separate guides. To examine condition of tappets or cams on these
models without dismantling crankcase, it is necessary to withdraw tappet
guides from crankcase. The top crankcase securing bolt nuts should iirst
be slackened, tappet guide tocating plate removed. Applying heat to
crankcase aids removal. B.s.A, tool 61-806g can be used for wilhdrawing
the two outside tappets or a tool can be improvised using a tube spacer
and nut that threads on the tappet guide which is threaded at the top end.
On 1951 and later 500 twins and all 650 twin motors, tappets are
Iocated in cylinder block and easily inspected when block is rem6ved. To
remove tappets from bloek, remove the grub screws at left and right sides
of tappet guide. This wil permit the two outside inret tappels to be
removed. Removal of the .centre grub screw, %0,, steel ball and lipping out
the retaining pin from other sidi wiII allow the exhaust tappeti^to orop
out. Note inlet and exhaust tappets on these moders aii not inter-
chaqgeable.
_
Piston antl Iiing Fitting-Before fitting new piston rings to pistons,
make sure that arl carlon is scraped tro,m bottom of rin! groo'ves. A
broken section of old piston ring is usefur for this pu"po".u] File ring
joints.as.ne_cessary to provide .012,,-,014,, gap when rings are placed
squarely in lower unworn end of cylinder. No€e that split- skirt plstons
are fitted with split side of skirt.facing front.
- Sitting' cylinder-Fit new cylinder base gasket, support the bottom
of piston skirts, resting_9n-the crankcase cylinder base sririace. oil pistons
and cylinder. Lower cyrinder brock onto pistons, wrcrking brock over one
ring on each piston, one after the other. Tlghten down cylinder base units.
_ Before Fitting cylinder rread-The igrrition and varve timing can
be most easily checked, at this stage. with the automatic advance in
retarded position, timing is correct when breaker points
just commence to open with -approximately
pistons at top of stroke. with magneto
armature rotated via the breaker assembly or drive gear nut as far as the
advance mechanism witl permit, breaker points should just commence to
99pg,r9.Je with pistons -5/16,, before top of stroke, standard 500 c.c. Twin,
nAz" 650 c.c., and 7s" 500 c.c. Star Twin. (See
Section 4 of this Chalter for
fgnition Timing.)
To check on varve timing, pushrods can be instailed. Note the two
outside tappets accommodate the inlet (short pushrods) and the two
inside tappets the exhaust (long pushrods). Valveliming is approximatety
correct when the inlet tappets just commence to lift wltrr pistons vrc,,-vt,,
before top of stroke (see section 2 for exact timing specifications.y
' Fitting cylintler rrearl-ff pushrods have been fitted to block for
ehecking timing, remove these. A new cylinder head gasket shouta be
fitted if available. rf not, old gasket, if of the solid cop--per type, can be
softened by heating red and quenching in water. cylina"r-rr"aa rott"
should be tightened to 50 ft. lbs.1orque. L gooa fitting iubular box wrencn
is essential. Note the correct order of final tightenin{. rllustration ?6.
Ill. ,6
650 o.c. TWIN CYf.INDDR,
IIEAD BOLTS
The correct location for the cylinder
head bolts which vary in length is
shown. The numbered bolt holes
ind.icate the correct order for final
tightening, Recommended. pressue
is 50 ft. lbs. torque.
Fitting Rocker Boxes-New gaskets should always be fitted' X'irst,

place pus[rods into position. Remove tappet inspection covers - if stil1
iitteA to rocker boxes. Have pistons at top of stroke. Lower rocker box
within about r/+" of cylinder head surface, then individually engage each
pushrod with its corresponding rocker. A length of wire bent with a hook
at orre end will be found useful for guiding pushrods into correct position.
It will be found quite easy to view the pushrod and rocker ends, looking
through the rocker inspection openings. when pushrod is lined up $'ith
rockei end, lift on valve end. of rocker to engage rocker on pushrod'
This operation should be repeated with each pushrod and rocker, and
when all engaged, rocker box lowered in position. Rocker box should be
tightened down lightly and motor cranked over to observe that all pushrods
aie in position and vaives operating, before finally tightening dor'vn.
Adjusting Tappets-Turn starter until one inlet valve is fully open,
then adjust tappet clearance on the other inlet valve, then rotate until
vaive that has been adjusted is fully open and adjust clearances on the
other valve. Repeat the same operation on the exhaust valves. Note-Due
to the very gradual tift cams used, it is important that this procedure is
adopted to ensure valves are in fully closed position 'when adjustment is
being made. Tappet clearance is .010" on all 650 c.c. motors, and 1951 and
Iatei c.e. motors. See Section 2 "Clearances and Settings" for clearance
on other models.
completion of remainder of assembly is just the reverse of dismantling.
Note that a gasket is fitted next to the carburetor flange and betu'een
the magneto drip shield and cylinder head. Refit rocker oil line, and
tighten banjo union nuts securely. After a short period of operation,
reiheck cylinder base nuts, rocker box bolts and nuts, and finally tappet
adjustment.
Ilt. ?7
TAPPET ADJUST}TENT
1948-1950 500 c.c. T[I-L\S
TanDet clearance can be checked bl' remo\ing scre\r plug ' D"
and-inserting feeler gauge through opening, bets'een rocker ad-
iusting screw and valve end. -{diustment is eflected by remoling
in*oeclion cap 'A," stackening locknut "C" and turning adjust-
ing screw "8" as requiied. Refel to "Clearances and Settings "
page 226, for ciearance speciticarions.
MOTOR SERVICING 245
B.S.A. 500 c.c. and 650 c.c. Twin Crankcase Servicing

The erankcase and gearbox are removed from the frame as a unit.
Crankcase dismantling will not normally be undertaken until perceptible
con-rod big-end up and down clearance has developed. To dismantle
crankcase, it is first necessary to dismantle the primary drive and remove
gearl:ox. Removal of magneto at this stage will improve accessibility of
the top two gearbox to crankcase securing bolts.
Gea;rbox Eernoval-In instances where the bottom mounting' studs
have been replaced with bolts, dismantling of clutch, withdrawing. of
clutch hub and removal of gearbox to crankcase bolts will enable eomplete
gearbox to be removed from crankcase. Where the original bottom studs
are fitted in crankcase it is necessary to remove g:earbox mainshaft to
enable gearbox to be lifted off the mounting studs. An alternative method
recommended if gearbox dismantling is not otherwise required is to
unscrew the studs from crankcase. This is best done by removing nuts
and washers and using two thinner nuts locked together on studs. Another
method is to lock original nuts to stud ends by centre punching in two or
three places so studs will unscrew with nuts and allow cornplete gearbox
removal,
Remove outer iiming cover, generator driving sprocket, generator and
chain. Remove inner timing cover.
Crankshaft Pinion Nut and Worm Gear-Note-Nut is left hand
thread, and worm gear also has a left hand thread, so both must be
unscrewed clockwise. Timing pinion should be removed, with B.S.A. puller
No. 61-3256 on 1950 and later modets which have the slots in gear to
accommodate this puller. On earlier models, removal can be effected by
prying behiad gear with two offset screwdrivers.
Separating Cra,nkcases-Make sure that all crankcase securing nuts
are removed. Do not overlook nut within crankease, direcily in front of
camshaft. Remove crankcase return fiLter plate. Crankcase halves are
most easily separated by lowering crankcase assembly from a height of
about 6" above bench top fairly quickly striking drive end of crankshaft
on bench.
Right Crankcase Mairl Bea,ring-Replaeement should be made if
shaft clearance is in excess of .008,,. ff wear on this crankshaft main
bearing surface is in excess of .003,,, regrinding and fitting undersize
bearing is recommended. Sha"ft clearance after bearing is fittec in crank-
case should be .001/z't-.00ilt. Heat crankcase for bearing removal and
refitting.
Con-rod Big-ends-Crankshaft throws should be measured with a
micrometer and if worn in excess of .OOZ,,-.008,,, regrinding.and fitting
undersize shel1s is recommended. where wear is less than this amount,
new standard shells will give satisfactory results. rt is permissible to
carefully surface the con-rod big-end joints to compensate for slight
crankshaft wear. Not more than .002" shouid be removed in this operation,
and the joint surfaces of shells should likewise be surfaced tightty on
emery cloth if this is done. on the earlier motors with the steel connecting
rods, a minimum of .0071/2" con-rod big-end. clearance is necessarv. On
the tater 500 c.c. and all 650 c.c. Twin Motors with aluminum connecting
rods, .001/2"-.001" con-rod big-end clearance is sufficient. Where rod joints
are sur{aced to reduce clearance slightly on worn crankshaft, it is
permissible to fit with just perceptible drag, after nuts have been fully
tightened. Correct tightening pressure is 25 ft. lbs. torque.
Cleaning Out Crankshaft-When crankshaft is removed, and before

connecting rods are refitted, the crankshaft end plugs should be unscrewed
and the oil way thoroughly cleaned out. The dirt deposit should be first
scraped out and finally washed with gasoline or solvent. Retighten plugs
securely and punch lock.
PrimarSr Drive Chain Tensioner Shoe-Slack sometimes develops
between the chain tensioner slide and its channel in the crankcase,
resulting in noise. when there is perceptible clearance between slide and
aluminum, this can be closed up by punching the aluminum in t\'vo or
three places near bottom of slide on either side to swell against the slide.
Note the chain tensioner slide nuts must be quite tight and wired. together
through the holes provided. Do not cotter pin these nuts individually as
there is still danger that the stud might screw out and cause damage.
wiring through the two studs and nuts is the only positive way of securing.
CA,ANKC.ASE REASSEMBLY
Support drive side crankcase half on bench top, blocked up' Coat
cranltciie joint surfaces with gasket g'oo or gasket shellac. Lower c1.ank-
shaft and connecting rod assembly into drive side crankcase; fit on right
side crankcase and tap cases together, Note that cases come right together
before bolting up. fit the crankcase drain filter plate u-ith new gasket
and tighten up stud nuts with moderate pressure.
Fitting Timing Gear-Fit timing gear to crankshaft concave side
first, followed by the Piain washer,
Oil Pump-Fit the oil pump using new gasket and tightening stud
nuts securely-. Note that oil pump driving worm fits on the crankshaft
with left hand thread. Take care when threading this on to avoid damage
to oil pump drive shaft gear. After worm is tightened up fully against
cranksiraft gear, fit lockrvasher and timing gear nut, tighten securely
and fold over lockwasher.
Timing Gear Marks-Note that crankshaft timing gear tooth mai'k
registers with the dot on the idler gear and that the ]ine on the idler gear
with the line on the camshaft gear. (See Illustration 78')
"egirt"rs
Magneto Tirning-Refer to Section 4 of this Chapter.
Beforo Fitting Timing Gear Cover-Note that magneto gear and
camshaft gear nuts are tight, oil pump stud nuts tight, cork s'asher filted
on cam gear between gear and breather, hole in breather registering $'ith
the peg on camshaft gear. !'it the timing g'ear cover rvith gasket and
tighten up screws securelY.
Generator Drive and chain cover-trnstall the generator and fit driving
sprocket onto the idler gear taper. Tighten up securely and tur-n over
eige of washer to lock. Adjust generator chain by rotating generator to
giie approximately aAa" trP and down slack in centre of chain' Note that
it is is-stiit present after tighteni4g generator securing band screu'. Check
tightness of-generator armature shaft nut, fit gasket to outer cover, appl1'
aiout 1/+ lb. of Ught grease to the generator chaincase. Note-The five
longest outside cover screws fit at the lower end, and the three sholtest
screws at the generator end of cover.
primaify Drivs B,eassembly-I'it the two sections of the split co11ar
into the g:roove on g:earbox mainshaft. These are best located with grease.
MOTOR SERVICING 247
[t. i8
B.S.A. T1VIN TLIIING GEAB,
}IARKS
Punch marked tooth on crankshaft
gear must register with simila!
mark on idier gear and the tine
mark on idler gear with line on
camshaft gear as shown, when as-
It should be noted that due to the

odd number of teeth on the idter
gear, the marks on idler gear s'ilt
not register after motor has been
revolved. Valve timing, however,
will be correct iI the marked tooth
on crankshaft gear is the meshiDg
toolh with idier and if the marked
tooth on camshaft gear is the
meshing tooth with idler gear. To
positively check timing it is worth-
\ahi1e to withdraw idler gear and
refit as sho\Tn.
Ejt on large washer with recess fitting over split collars. Locate the
1g t/nt'7L/a't rollers on clutch hub race wilh thiek grease and fit on clutch
sproeket. Fit primary chain over motor sprocket and clutch sprocket.
Grasping motor sprocket in left hand and cluteh hub with sprocket fitted
in dght, slip this assembly into position on shafts. Next, fit mainshaft
loekwasher, hammer tighten nut and fold over washer.
Clutch Reassembly-This is quite straightforward. tr'irst, fit the thick
plain steel plate followed by fabric insert plate, and alterhating steel
plates an6 the fabric plates. rt is most important that the fabric insert
plates should be dry and free from grease or oil, if not, wash thoroughly
in g'asoline and allow to dry. If inserts are glazed roughen with sandpaper.
Tighten up clutch spring nuts so that nuts are within L/e,, of ends of
studs, and fiaally adjust nuts individually so that clutch outer plate throws
off evenry when clutch is released. To reduce possibility of oil working
into this dry clutch, it is advisable to use jointing compound in addition
to the gasket on the clutch dome cover.
Primary Chain Adjustment-!'inal adjustment should be made when
machine is warm. Adjustment can be made cold, providing at least
free slack. When setting with motor warm B/e,, slack iJsufficient.
rrammer tighten motor sprocket nut before fitting primary drive cover.
A new gasket should be used if available, and oil tightness wiit te improved
by use of jointing compound. Not*Motor oil is correct iubricairt for
primary drive, and the lower front screw with the red painted head is the
level to which the case should be filled with oil.
Section 4
IGMTION TIMING
(a) B.S.A. 125 e.c.Ignition Timing
Breal<er points should be first cleaned and set to .01b,, fully open
(Wico-Pacy flywheel magaeto), and, .072,, gap (Lucas coit ig:iition1.
Removo spark plug, and follow movement of piston with a piece of wire'
or remove cylinder head. Revolve motor until pisto;n is 7sz" before top of
stroke. Note-In this position breaker points should be just commencing
to separate. If not, slacken the three magneto housing screws
Illustration No. 79 (Wico-Pacy), and rotate magneto housing until points
just separate, and retighten screws.
On the Lucas coil ignition equipment, timing is adjusted by slackening
the four screws "B" in Illustration 80, and rotating the breaker assembly
mounting' plate until points just commence to separate, and retightening
screws in this position.
Wico-Pacy Magneto Fll'wheels-It should be noted that two types
of flyurheels irein- use. The later type flywheel is marked AC-DC and
contains extra mqgnets to give a higher output. This new style flyrvheel
must not be used on earlier equipment as trouble wilt be experienced with
bulbs burning out. The later type magneto armature plate assembly like-
wise must not be used with the early type flpvheel as insufficient output
will result.
r[, ?9
}VICO.PACY }LIG\ETO
BRIIAIiT]R POI}'T A.\-D
TI}IING ADJ!-ST}IE\T
To adjust breaker points rotate
ilotor until fully open, slacken iock
screrv "E" and rotate eccentric
screw "F" to give.015" gap and
retighten sQrelY "E".
centre screw "A" secures brea']ie!
cam, removal is necessar]'to $'ith-
dras'magneto armature plate for
dismantling. Note that the smali
shaft key is not lost lthen re.
movinX.
Ignition timing is adiusted. b! the
three serelvs "D" and moving cotel
ptate clockwise to retard aad an::-
clockwise to advauce timing.
rll. 80
LUCAS IGNITION AIMING

Breaker mint sap is.O12"' fiming is ad-
lrat"a ny-"t""Xening the fou screws "B" and
iotatins- the breaker plate as required' On
all B.S,A. 125 models timing settlnB ts ptston
6A.2" bef orc top oI stroke with breaks points
lusi separating.
(b) 250 c.c. S.V. anal O.H.V. trgnition Timing

1. Clean breaker points and adjust to .072" gap fuily open.
2. Remove timing screw plug from cylinder head on side valve model,
and spark plug from O.H.V. model. Piston movement can be follorved
with a length of wire.
IGNITION TIMING 249
3. Rotate engineuntil piston is ]{2 before the top of compression

stroke.
4. The breaker points should just be separating. in this positioh. ff
not, slacken the distributor base clamp screw and rotate distributor as
required until points Just separate. Note-Turning the distributor head
clockwise, advances timing, and anti-clockwise retards, Tighten distributor
base screw securely.
5, Timing can b9 checked in the advanced position by setting piston
approximately %s" before top of compression stroke, and revolving the
breaker cam as far as the adva;nce mechanism will permit, in anti-clockwise
direction, at which poiht breaker points should just comrnence to separate.
6. Distributor Lubriearbion-To avoid excessive wear of distributor
driveshaft bushings, and wear between cam a^nd spindle, a few drops of
light oil should be applied to the screw head at top of breaker cam, and
also to top end of distributor base below cam, at 1000-mile intervals.
7. Refitting Completo Distributor to Mobor-Where complete dis-
tributor has been withdrawn, note standard location is with the nat siae
of distributor body towards the rear. Distributor shaft should be set so
that there is about a 3A" ga;p between the breaker roeker arm and the
rise of cam where points open, when installing distributor. The movement
of the helical gear going into mesh will rotate distributor shaft so points
are approximately at the opening position and final exact setting should
be obtained by rotating distributor head as described above (4). -
(c) 350 c.c.-500 c.c. Singtres-Magneto Ignition fiming
1. Mount magneto on platform; fit the gear to shaft and cheek ,gear
mesh. Remove or add shims as necessary, to eliminate excessive back
laslr, but note that idler gear cah slide freely in and out of mesh.
2. Note that composition washer is fitted behind magneto gear.
3. Clean and set breaker points .012,, gap fully open.
4. Clean taper in magureto gear wheel and armature shaft taper. Slip
gear onto shaft.
5. Revolve motor r:ntil piston is .Aa,, before top of eompression stroke
(both valves closed).
6. Revolve magrreto armature sha-ft in runnihg direction until breaker
points commence to sepa^rate with spark control in the advanced position.
7, Locate magneto gear to shaft by giving a sharp rap with hammer,
using old bushing or piston pin, fitting up against geaf over armature
shaft end. oit armature sha"ft end trrreias] tighten nit securely. r'iaally
give wrench a few sharp raps with hammer. Recheck timing to make
sure that it has not slipped in this operation.
, 8. Note-rf timing is out, in some instances an approximatery correct
setting can be obtained. by withdrawing idler gear and revolving i.rmature
shaft to where points just separate and remeihing idling gearl
fl. 8l
THRTAD SI?E MAGDYNO GDAR PUIJ,ER
rllr" DlA.x 20 T.P.l.
B.S.A, tool 61-1903 shown, simplifies gear
removal for timing or magneto sewiclng. A
tool can easily be mada up with the tiread
\ shown to fit gear hub and using a ye', centri
screw. An alternative method of geai removal
is to tap a wedge -behiDd gear anrl give sharp
1 rap on amatu.e shaft end with hmmer aDa
dif :.
\
!
t
\
250 B.S.A. SER\IICING
(d) 500 c.c. and 650 c.e. Twins-Igniti6l fiming

1. Mount magneto on crankcase.
2. Clean and set breaker points to ,072" gap fully open.
3. Wipe clean the taper on armature shaft and in magneto gear.
4. Remove spark plttgs if cylinder head is on. Turn motor until pistons
ares/rc" before top of stroke; standard 500 c.c. motors; 3/8't Star Twin Model
and t7/az" 650 c.e. Twin. Block the automatie advance mechanism in the
advanced position by fitting a small wedge of, wood or cardboard, fitting
snugly between the stationary and removable lips on the advanced
mechanism.
5. P1ace gear on shaft and tighten nut lightly but not sufficient to
grip gear to shaft taper.
6. Turn magneto armature via the contact breaker end in its running
direction (clockwise at breaker end) until points just commence to separate.
7, Using a tube spacer or box wrench that fits over I'ear nut, "fix"
gear hub to shaft taper with a light rap with hammer.
8. Tighten up nut, give wrench a few light taps with hammer.
9. Revolve motor and check breaker until points just commence to
separate in the correct position. Remove block from advance mechanisrn
allowing timing to be checked also in retarded position. Breaker points
should just commence to separate with pistons within the range of frorn
top of stroke to lAa" past top of stroke.
10. Checking Timing-Timing can be checked without removiqg timing
cover. To check in advanced position, first locate pistons at specified
amount before top of stroke. Note it is necessary to revolve breaker point
assembly with fingers in the running direction as far as position, rvhen
breaker points should be just separating.
11. High Tension Wires-As firing intervals are exactly evenly spaced
on all vertical twin models, it does not matter on which cam or tlhich
piston the timing is done, It is, of course, necessary to fit the high tenslon
wires correctly to spark plugs. The simplest method is to try the rrires.
one connected to each plug and if motor does not start with this con-
nection, switch them. To be positiveiy sure the wires are connected cor"rectl]'.
relrove the front high tension pick-up which is most accessible. also
breaker point cover. Turn motor over until breaker points just comntence
to separate, and with the brass contact of collector ring facing tl:,is pick-up
opening; the wire from this pick-up should be connected to the c1'linder
that has both valves closed. On the original assembly, front pick-up
connects to left side cylinder and rear pick-up to right side eyIlnder.
Sticking of Advance Unit-Sticking of the advance gear on hub.
indicated by armature not being rotated back to retarded position, when
advanced by hand and released, can be due to mesh betu'een magneto and
cam g:ear being too tight. To correct, slacken the three magneto flartge
stud nuts and wedge a screw driver between the bottom sleeve nut and
magneto as nuts are retightened. There should be just perceptible gear
backlash.
(e) B.S.A. "V" Twin lgnition Timing

When timing the ignition on the 1940 and earlier B.S.A. "V" Trvin
motors, it is most essential that the eorrect cam for whichever cylinder
is being timed, is usecl. Best method is to check the breaker point opening
IGNITION TIMING 25L
in relation to piston movement on both cylinders. Note-the 1ongest firing

interval is between firing of the rear cylinder and the froni cylinder.
The magneto cam ring lifts for the respectiv'i: cylinders can be identified
by o-bserving the rotation of the breaker, and noting that the cam lift
for the front cylinder is the one which follows the greatest breaker interval.
ff Hming is effected on reax cylinder, motor should be revolved one
full revolution plus the amount necessary to bring the front piston in
the firing position, and note-breaker points are separating on the other
cam. Ignition advance on the .,V,, Twin motors ranges s7ru,,-sr6,, on the
pistons.
_ The high tension w"ires can be identified for the correct spark plugs
by removing pickups and connecting wire from pickup opening which the
contact strip on the collector ring registers with, to the spark plug on
tho cylinder being timed.
, Note-If timing is done on the vvrong' cam, motor will run, but one
cylinder wiII be considerably out of time.
Section 5
GEARBOXF,S, CLUTCHES ANI) CrrArNS

Gearbox Lubrication-Motor oit, same grade as used in motor (see
page 126)' is correct for all model B.s.A, gearboxes. oil level should be
gnee_t<e! and topped up if neeessary at least every 1000 miles. oil should
be drained and refilled at 5000-mile intervals, oi seasonally if there is
substantial change in temperature.
Gearbox OiI Levols

A25 c.c. ModeI-A dip stick is attached to the filler plug. Correct
level is to groove on stick. Not+gearbox oil on this model also
lubricates clutch and primary drive. A grade or two lighter oil than those
reco_mmended on page 126, for varyrng temperatures, will reduce tendency
of clutch to drag. S.A.E. No. 30 or No. 40 is sufficienily heavy for summer
use and S.A.E. No. 20 is suitable for below freeziag temperatures.
25O c.c. Models-Add oil via the clutch adjusting serew. opening to
height of level plug located at rear of gearbox.
350 c.c. and 500 c.o. Sing,les-Ad.d oil via the clutch adjustment opening
on right side of gearbox. correct level is just to bottom of this op-ening.
500 c.c. and 650 c.c. Twins-Add oil via clutch adjustment opening to
the height of level plug located at rear of gearbox.
Gearbox Servicinrg
126 c.c. Models-It is necessary to dismantle motor and separate
crankcases to service this gearbox. Reference should be made to seeltion B
of this Chapter-"(a) 125 c.c. Motor Servicing.,,
Dismantling-on ail types this should not be undertaken until need
for gearbox servicing is indicated, such as replacement of kickstarter
retura spring, kickstarter gear troubtre, gear changing difficulty or failure
to stay in g'ear.
B.S.A. 250 c.c.3-Speed Gearbox Ilismantling

1. Drain oil by removing the plug at bottom of gearbox on right side.
2. Disconnect clui-ch cable, remove kickstarter crank and footchange
levers.
3. IJnscrew ,gear control plunger ("E" Illustration 82) from bottor-n.
4. Remove the three outer cover screws and seven nuts and tap outer
cover to free joint and'*,ithdraw.
5. Remove footchange parts "D", "G", and "H" (Illustration 82).
6. Remove the three bolts securlng inner cover and tap inner cover
away.
7. Before gearbox can be dismantled further, the clutch hub ii-iIl
have to be removed, if this has not already been done. (Use B.S.A. puiler
No. 61-1912 after removing' clutch hub nut.)
8. l{ainshaft can now be u,ithdrawn togethelwith kickstarter ratchet
gears, and mainshaft low gear.
L To remove kickstarter gears from mainshaft, clamp mainshaft in
vise on hexagon section and unscrew t-he kickstarter ratchet sleeve nui
with a punch. Note-this is a left hand thread.
10. To remove the remaining gears, it is necessary to first rento\,'e the
screw plug at front of gearbox near the rear drive sprocket. \l'hen this
is removed, a 1/4" bolt can be screwed into the locking dorvel plug in this
hole, which locates the shifter fork selector shaft. This locking clow"el plug
can then be withdrawn and this will permit the selector shaft, together
nrith operating forks, mainshaft sliding gear and layshaft gear assembll-
to be withdrarvn.
11. Note-It is normally unnecessary to remove the layshaft n'htch
is secured by nut in left end of gearbox. The main drive gear need no!
be disturbed unless it is desired to replace drive gear bearing ciue to
excessive play, or if drive gear dogs are worn excessively as a resr-llt oi
slipping out of high gear, and repiacement is to be made.
12. Rear drive sprocket can be convenientiy secured fot' nut r"enolal
by wrapping a short length of oIC chain around sprocket and ciamprng i:l
vise.
Reassernbling B.S.A. 250 c.c.3-Speed Gearbox

1. Install main drive g:ear in case if this part has been removed.
2. Fit the layshaft gear cluster with sliding gear groove engaging
on the shifter fork towards left end of seiector shaft.
3. Engage the mainshaft sliding gear groove on shifter fork tot-ards
right end of selector shaft (end with gear on). Note that mainshaft sliding
gear is installed with the gear teeth on the right side of shifter fork ior','ar .is
open end of gearbox.
4. Slide this assembly into position in gearbox. Observe that the
groove in the end of shifter camshaft is central in the locking dor.,-el
plug hole, then Iower the locking dowel plug into position, making sure
that it registers with shaft groove. Tighten the dowel locking scre*"
plug. Note-If this plug does not readily screw down flush rvith the gearbox,
the dowel plug is not properly engaged with the shaft groove.
GEIARBOXES, CLU"ICHEIS AND CHAINS 253
5. rteplace mainshaft.
6. Fit new inside cover gasket.
7. fit inner cover and tighten up the inside eover bolts.
8. X'it the gearshift quadrant "I{" (Illustration 82), first revolving
the selector shaft gear so that the marked. tooth points towards rear.
Engage the marked tooth on the quadrant in line with this mark. The
quadrant plunger "O" must be depressed when fitting this part, or it
can be unscrewecl and refitted after installing.
ril. a2
B.S.A. 250 c.s. 3-SPEED tr'OOTCEANGE ME(IEANT. IW

Pr@edure for Nsembling thefootchange parts shown in this illustration is covered on pages
253-254. Caefully fouowing these iNtructions in conjunction with this illBtration will
eliminato most common assembly diffieulties.
9. Apply a liberal quantity of thick g'rease to the quadrant shaft and

hub (H), a]so to the inside face of the ratchet carrier pfate (G). Ttris is
for the purpose of securing the carrier plate in the correct position when
fittiqg cover. F'it the footchange ratchet carrier plate (G) onto shifter
shaft, followed by the operating plate and sleeve (D). Note that operating
plate (D) registers with the spaee between the two ratchets in line with
the ratchet spring at (J). I
10. Note that the footchange pedal return spring-on- carrier (G) has
been correctly refitted if removed or replaced. The two spring ends must
be crossed over and separated by the stud.
11. Loeating .tho footchange cafrier plate (G)-This must be correctly
located so that the peg (M) in the outer cover located above the footchange
shaft, registers between the. two spring ends on the footchange carrier.
TtIe spring ends will be in approximately correct alignment with the peg
if the footcharlge carrier is located so that when viewed from above on
the right side, the left edge of the footchange carrier is direcUv below the
screw hole.above footchange shaft, and the,,V', notch at th6 bottom of
carrier, that the spring plunger (E) in the cover eng'ag.es with, is directly
at the bottom. Note that the two kickstar[er return stop plates are in
position on kickstarter shaft followed by the cork washer.
1
t
t
t
I
254 B.,S.A. SERVICING
12. IJnscrew plug containing plunger screrv (E) from the bottom of
outside cover', if this has not been removed on dismantling.
13. Slip on outside cover and s1i.de on to within 3/+" of joint, but no
closer.
14. Note-Screw driver slot is provided in the kickstarter shaft to
enable kickstarter shaft to be turned anti-clockwise as necessary, rvhen
cover is being fitted, so that kickstarter shaft stop plates clear the stop
in outer cover.
15. After rotating kickstarter shaft anti-clockwise with screu'drit,er,
note that the footchang:e earrier: is stiil correctly positioned as described
under No. 11, and push cover fully on.
16. As soon as cover is fitted fuliy on, fit and tighten at ieasi t\1'o
of cover stud nuts before trying operation of footchange.
17. If cover does not fit readily up against g:ear case, when lvithin
7/"tt fo t/at' of joint, trouble is due to footchange carrier not being quite
correctly located, resulting in the peg (M) in cover not registering'betrveen
spring ends. The footchange pedal can be fitted and rocked up and cion-r-t
very slightly as cover is tapped on. Best results, however, will genera1l1,'
be obtained by just taking care to line up the carrier plate correctl), in
assembly as detailed under No. 11, and ensuring position is retained s-hile
cover is being fitted. Use of thick grease between footchange carrier and
the hub on quadrant is most important.
18. To ensure that peg (M) in cover has reg'istered correctly betrveen
spring ends on the carrier plate, after fitting two of the end coler stud
nuts, fit footchange pedal and note that spring tension can be felt bolh
when pedal is Iifted up or pressed down. If spring pressure is not fell in
one direction, it is likely due to the carrier plate having shifted slight)1'
on assembly and the peC (M) not registered between spring ends. In this
case, remove cover and make another attempt, closely follou,ing directions
detailed above.
19. After footchange assembly has been successfully carried out. fit
and tighten the remaining: cover stud nuts, fit the plunger screu' assen.ib)1'
(E) at bottom of outer cover, which locates the footchange carrier plaie.
20. Gear Inspection PIate-If gearbox is compietely remo\-ed. gears
can be examined via the inspection plate at rear of gearbox. This enables
the conditlon of the gear dogs and the shifter forks to be exan-iineC. a:.d
may indicate source of trouble if siipping out of gear has been e:iperiencerl.
21. Refit starter pedal, adjust clutch cable slack if necessai'..- to
provide %6".
22. Refill rvith oi1 to levei p1ug.
Slipping out of lligh Gear 2,50 c.c. 3-speetl Gearboxes-\1'here tlouble
has been experienced lvith slipping out of high gear and it is eviclent that
the mainshaft sliding gear dogs do noL fuIly enter into the driling gear
dog:s, an extra retaining washer, B.S.A. No. 27-1033 sl'iould be fitted l,.ehind
the main drive gear against ball bearing to bring drive gear slightl5' further
torvards sliding gear. If this trouble has existed for some time. sliciing
gear and main drive gear dogs as well as shifter fork may hale sufferet'l.
and should be replaced if noticeably worn.
GEARBOXES, CLUTCHES AND CHAINS 255
fum
k\rc
IlI. a3
B.S.A. 350-500 c.c. SINGLES TYFE GEARBOX
This iUustration shos's th€ parts layout of the latest 350 c.c. and 500 c.c. Single model
gearbox. Earlier models were of similar construction, except for kickstarter gear location
being within the main gear ctre, On this new type, kickstartet return spring replacement
or starter gear seryicing, can b€ €ffected by removing the outer cover only.
B.S.A. 350 c.c. and 500 c.c. "B" Motl'els-Gearbox Servicing

Dismantling-After disconnecting the clutch control cable, speedometer
cable, removing kickstarter and footchange pedats, and the outer cover
nuts and screws, the cover can be tapped free and removed. This will
give access to the footchange mechanism and the footchange ratchet
linkage adjustment as seen in IlI. 84. In the event of trouble with the
engagement of either low or high gear, it may not be necessary to
dismantle further. A slight adjustment on the linkage from the ratchet
to the camshaft lever, may be all that is required,. To adjust, slacken
locknut, remove connecting link pin, and if difficutty in engaging high
gear is encountered, shorten linkage one half or one full turn. If
difficulty is encountered in engaging Ioiv gear, lengthen linkage a
similar amount..
If the gearbox is removed from the frame or the rear mud guard
removed, the operation of the gears and the meshing of dogs can be
obserwed via the inspection plate opening at rear of case.
If inner cover and gears are to be removeal the clutch should first
be dismanUed and clutch hub removed, from mainshaft with B.S.A, puller
No. 61-1912. To remove the gearbox inner cover, remove the footchange
ratchet linkage pin, and the large nut on the left outside of the inner
Irl. 84
B.S.A. GEAR,BOX FOOTCHANGE }IDCIL{NIS}I 350-5OO c.c. SE{GLES
Removal 01 gearbox end cover enables the footchange ratchet mechanism sho$n jn !.:s
illustration, to be inspected, and the footchange ralchet linkage to be adjusted if neces:i::-,
If difficulty is experienced engaging low gear, linkage shoutd be tengthened, and if i:::;ci:::.'
i( experienced engaging high gear, linkage should be shortened. One half or one :;:. :::a
oI adjustment is generally sufficient to correct engagement difficulty.
gear case, towards the front of the main gearbox. This holds the foot-
change spindle in position. X'ootchange mechanism can now be remosed as
a complete unit. Do not lose the spring loaded locating plunger ri-hich
will be revealed when this assembly is taken off.
After removal of the gearbox inner bolts, the inner cover can be
tapped free and removed complete with kickstarter sector and shaft. ard
the footchange selector sector. Observe the location of the val'ious
spacing washers on shafts which are used to adjust endplal'. The gear
assembly can now be removed from gearbox complete rvith 1a1'shait.
mainshaft, selector shaft and shifter forks. Removal of the n:ain dri.,'e
gear requires removal of the sprocket securing nut, but this $'i11 noi be
necessary unless replacement of sprocket gear or main drive gear is
necessary,
Gearbox Rea,ssembly-Starting with the maln drir-e gear a1rea,:1'
installed in gearbox, assemble shafts, g:ears and seleetor fork assembll'
complete as a unit. Note the shifter fork on the left end of selector shait is
for the mainshaft sliding gear, and the shifter fork on the righi end
for the layshaft sliding gear. (See Il1. 83 for coffect location of these
parts.) The large gear on the right end of layshaft should be left off at
this stage, and the complete assembly entered into gearbox. After
installed, refit the layshaft large gear. Locate the selector shaft in the
high gear position, that is with the mainshaft siiding gear engaging u-ir-h
the main drive gear, this fork being as far to the left as it rvil1 go.
Before fit+-ing gearbox inner cover, note that the selector sector
is in position, and engaged with the spring plunger in the high gear
position. (See lli. 85.) Fit gasket in position and fit the selector shaft
GEIARBOXES, CLIITCHES AND CHAINS 257
ru. 85
GEAR SELECTOR PLIINGEB 350-5,OO o.c.

SINGT.E GEARAOX&S
This iUustration shows the gear selecto? pluger
located on the insido of inner gear cover, witlt
I selector in the high gear position, Selector shoulal
bs located in this position for gearbox assembly.
dista,nce washer against the cover bush with thick grease, rather than
I fitting on the shaft, lf cover does not fit on readily, tap lighily and at
the same time, move the end of selector sector very slightly either way
to permit engagement of selector shaft gear teeth with the selector
sector. Do not, however, move shaft sufficiently in this operation to take
out of the high gear position. Note that cover taps right up against
gearcase before bolting up.
Reassembly of the footchange mechanism should now be undertaken
in the order seen in I1l, 86. Note that the spring loaded plung:er is in
position in the inner cover before fitting the footcnange mecnanism.
Connect up the footchange linkage. Before fitting the outer cover, the
footchange pedal can now be fitted and operatiot of gearshift checked.
N_ote' it is necessary to revolve the gearbox by hand, when testing shifting.
shorten the footchange tinkage adjustment slighily ir difliculty is
experienced in engaging high gear, or lengthen stighlly if difficuliy is
experienced in engaging low gear,
Note-On eariier model "B,, machines the kickstarter gears are
located on the inside of gearbox, On later model .,8,, machines and ..M,,
machines, starter gears are located between the inner and outer eovers.
On these models, note that the right side mainshaft nut that secures
the kickstarter gears, is securely tightened., and 1ockwasher folded over
before fitting outer cover.
RefiI with oil to level of bottom of clutch acljustment opening.
Ilt. 86
TOOTCIIANGE RATCHET ASSEIIBLY 3bO-800 e.c. SINGLES
This illustration shows the correct order of assembly of the footchange ratchet parts orl
the 350-500 c.c. Singl? gearboxes.
nt. 87
B.S.A. TIVIN GDABS AND GEARSHIFT

1\IECHANISil
This illustration shows the layout of gears
and gearshift mechanism on the 500-650
c.c. Tlvin model gearboxes. Parts identi-
fied by letters, are listed below:
A. Mainshaft SUding Gear (2nd Gear)
B. Mainshaft Sliding Gear (3rd Gear)
C. Layshaft Sliding Gear (2nd Gear)
D. Layshaft Slidlng Gear (3rd Gear)
E. Mainshaft Selector !'ork
F. Layshaft Selector Fork
c. Selector Fork Shaft
H. Cam Plate
J. Selector Fork Pegs that Itrate in Cam
Track
K. Selector Plate Boss
L. Footchange Pedal
II. Ratchet Lever with spring-loaded ratchet
pawl.
N. Ratchet Lever Ball End
o. Footchange fnner Lerer
P. Ratchet Pawl,
.l
I
B.S.A. 500 c.c. anal 650 c.c. Twin Gearbox DismanUing
1. Start dismantling with gear lever in neutral position.
2. Drain oil by removing plug in bottom of gearbox.
3. Disconnect clutch cable, speedometer drive cable and remove
right footrest.
4. Remove the three outer cover screws and four nuts. Tap end
cover to free joint and it can now be withdrawn complete rvith kickslarter
and footchange pedals. Note-the clutch operating lever u'iII serve as a
stop for the kickstarter crank, preventing the spring unwinding.
5. Note-If complete dismantling is to be undertaken, at thls stage
it is best to remove the primary drj.ve and clutch covers, remove clutch
plates, clutch hub nut, motor sprocket nut and withdraw the clutch hub
with clutch sprocket, primary chain and motor sprocket altogether. \1'hen
removing the large washer on mainshaft after removal of clutch hub. note
that the two split collars that fit into groove on mainshaft, are not lost.
6. Remove mainshaft right side nut that secures kickstarter ratchet
clutch and pinion.
?. The inner cover can now be removed. Tap to free joint, and
withdraw.
8. Before attempting to remove the inner gear assembly and seleetor
shaff-, note it is neeessary to remove the gl"ub screw located at the
bottorn of transmission, on left side towards front. This grub screrv
registers with the groove in the end of the selector shaft "G," I11. 87,
and locks selector shaft in the gearcase' ff selector shaft does not
y{hjryy rea{ily,..-g1p the_ right end with a pair of vice grip pliers,
tap rlgntry and withdraw. The complete gear assembly, comprlslng -main-
.shaft, layshaft, and shifter forks, can now be removed a"-a urri't f"om
the gearbox.
I' rt is not neeessary to remove the rear drive sprocket nut unress
it is desired to replace sprocket, inspect drive gear rearing or drive gear.
10. If drive gear replacement is necessary, heat ease for removal,
-. removing the spring circlip.
first
11. Unless the shifter cam plate obviously requires replacement, it
should be left in case. If it is being removed for examination, make a
pencil mark at the neutral groove position, registering with the locking
plunger at bottom of geerrbox and note that it is refitteit in the same
position for reassembliag.
Beassembling the 500 c.c. and 650 c.c. Twin Gearbox

1. With the main drive gear and cam plate already in position in
gearbox, assemble the gears, shafts and selector forks'as i complete
unit, as when removed. Note that the selector fork at the left end of
selector shaft is for the laSrshaft, and the right side folk eng:ages with
-g-o?cr""
tlre. y-1i1s!raft sticling gears. nntry of tti" "*."*tfy =i,,to i"
simplified if the layshaft lower geir (large gear at iigrrt of shaft)
is left off until after installed. "rr"o
.._..2..Y1g" assembly is in position, locate the pegs on selector

'-J" wrth the cam track groove, then slide the selector shaft throughforks
the
two forks and into the case. Tap fully home and replace grub''screw
at bottom of case, tightening securely. -
3. Fit inner cover gasket to gearcase, and fit on inner cover. Note,
the gearchange rocking rever "N" ihourd be herd in a horizontar po"itjori
while tapping' on inner cover. The gear selector claws ..p,' must -engage
with the teeth on the selector plate boss.r,K,,'nl. 82.
4. The kickstarter ratchet assembry shourd now be fitted to main-
shafl in the following order: washer, sleeve bush, spring, ratehet pinion,
ratchet, lockwasher and nut. rrammer tighten nuf ana turn ovir the
lockwasher. x'it the outer cover gasket and slip on outer Not"
that the ball end of the inner rocking lever ,.N,, must eng.age
"o.rur.
with the
"U" slot of the footchange inner lever .,O,,. Tap on covei t-o Soi''t ana
refit the four nuts and three screws and tighten securely.
5. connect clutch cable and speedometer drive. Adjust clutch cable
slack to provide minimum of Yta,, ftee movement in cable.
6. Refill with motor oil to level plug at rear.
7. when reassembling clutch, secure the two sprit conars in groove
at left end of mainshaft with thick grease.
I
i
Clutch Servicing
Clutoh Cable Slaak-Maintenance of the required minimum 1Aa,, flee
I cable slack is essential to clutch reliability on all models. rf elutch
cable slack is allowed to disappear, there is great danger of burning out
the clutch inserts.
ru. 88
B.S.A. 250 c.o. CLUTOH SPBING ADJUSTMENT

Clutch spring pressure ls adjustable. At the first sign
of "slip" either when starting or aecelerating, clutch
control slack should flrst be adjusted (See IU. No. 9O).
ff tbis d@s not corroct, springi pressure should b€ ttr-
creased. Slacken locknut (A), and ti8hten inner
nut (B). Generally, it is advisable to ttghten adjust-
ment as much as pGsible without preventing complete
rele&se to be obtatneal or making operation excessiYely
stiff. After changing spring pressure adjustment,
each spiing should flnaUy be adjusted indiYidually so
that when clutch is disengaged, the outer plate throws
off evenly aU the way around. Tighten each locknut
(A) against nuts.
,Clutch Spring Pressure-The clutch spring pressure is adjustable on

all models except the 125 c.c. The pressure provided on original factory
assembly has in many instances proved insufficient after a few thousand
miles has been covered. At the first sign of clutch slip, which on the single
cylinder models usually shows up when kickstarting, or on the twin
cylinder models when accelerating, evidenced by motor speed inereasing
out of relation to road. speed increase; spring pressure should be increased.
Tighten the spring nuts equally and note that nuts are not tightened
so much as to prevent pulling the handlebar lever in fully. I'inally, adjust
elutch springs individually by slackening or tightening each spring as
necessary so that the clutch outer plate throws off an even arnount
all the way around when clutch is disengaged. Note, on the 250 c.c.-500 c'c'
single models, double nuts are used on the clutch spring studs which
should be locked together after correct adjustment is obtained.
Clutch Plate Assembly-Note that inserted and plain steel plates are
fitted alternately. On the 650 c.c. model the heavy plain steel plate is
fitted first, next to clutch sprocket.
Clutch Plote Rep,lacements-When cork inserted plates are noticeably
burned or worn to where inserts are almost level with steel plate,
replacement should be made with complete inserted plates. Note-If corks
are to be fitted to old plates, they must be sandpapered or ground after
insertion to %s" width, and to width of Vs" in the clutch sprocket.
REAs ORIV€N DiIVEX PLATTS

PUT€ (rHrC() GHIN)
Itr. 89
8.3.A. IWL^{ CLSTCE

ASSE1IBLI
This lllustration shos's
the order of assembly of
clutch Parts on B S -\'
Twin model gearboxes'
6AtNltsAn
This ls a " dry t] Pe
i6
OEiATINO clutch, and clutch "-slip"
ROO
fhat is not a result or
insuffictent slack in the
ottvtN6 PtaTts control. usually is caused
WITH IXsEAE by oil getting into clutch
or iasufficient spring
pressure,
GEIARBOXES, CLUTCHES AND CHAINS 267
500 c.c.-650 c.c. Twin crutch prates-Most trouble with this crutch
is due to_-oil lrorking in. rt is intended to run dry. causes of oil entering
are usually operating with the primary chaincase oil level too high; i-t
should be just up to the level screlri located at the rower front of
chaincase (head painted red); operating with too high a level of oil in
gearbox, allowing oil to pass through mainshaft via ctutch operating rod
hole, or clutch dome cover gasket joint not being oil tight.
When oil has entered this clutch, the inserted plates should be
thoroqghly soaked and scrubbed with gasoline, and dried completely before
reassembling'. where plates have been very badly soaked in o1I, soinetimes
it is necessary to replace to get satisfactory results, when reassembling
it.is advisable to tighten up the spring pressure slightty more than the
original factory setting. clutch spring nuts should be iigtrtenea within
about 1/e" of ends of st,.rrs, and final adjustment made individually, to
g'ive an even throw-off of outer prate. use jointing compound on crutch
cover gasket.
clutch Hub Removal-Removal of clutch hub, necessary for cornplete
gearbox dismantling or removal of clutch sprocket on ali singles from
250 c.c. to 600 c.c. size, is facilitated by use or s.s.a. pulrer Nol et-]fltz,
which threads onto clutch hub after nut is removed, and will withdraw hub.
Ill. 90
CLUTCII CONTROL ANI)

PRIiII.4,RY CIIAIN AD,TUST-
MENT B.S.A. 280-800 c.c.
SINGI2ES
'Clutch control
adjustment is
ef.tected by slackening lock-
nut (A) and lurning adju6t-
ing Bcrew (B) in to take up
slack, and out to proyide
more slack, free cable
slack should%6,,
be provided.
When necessary, cables caq
be adjusred at (CJ to sive
the most favorable operaling
angle to leyer, similar to
that illustrated betow. A
similar clutch adjustment is
used on the Twln models.
Front chain aol'usimmt is
effected by slackenins nuts
(D) and stiding gearbox in
frame. An adjustins screw
(E) is provided on-350-500
models. No adjustins screw
is used on 250 c.c, machines.
Ilr. 91
CLUTCII CONTBOf,
AD.TUSTMENT EARLY
B.S.A. MODDLS
Note-The outer cable stoD
%@ adjuster shoutd be set t;
give the most favorable
angle to the operating levers
illustrated. Clutch conrrol
cable slack should be ad-iust-
ed by the set screw in oDer-
ating arm. Slacken adjusiing
screw locknut and turn screw
as required, to give %6,, free
movement at cable. Retishten
locknut.
@ CLEAR THREADS.
DIAMETER
s/iDrR.x 26 T.Pl. C.EJ.
SLEEVE NUT IN POSITION.
rll, 92
R,EI'ITTING B.S.A. SINGLE SPR,fNG TYPE CLUTCH SPRTNG \=UT

.d singte clutch spring was used on early model 8.S.A.350 c.c.-500 c.c. Singles, and is
pres€ntly used on the "M" models. Difficulty is often experienced in compressing springs
lufficiently to enable starting spring nut on hub. This job can be simplifled by use of a
qa" 26-lhtead bolt and nut, together with shouldered. washer as illustrated. Spring nut
siriruld be turned cl@kwise with a "c" wreneh or a car water pump type pliers, as nut
bolt is tightened, pressing nut against clutch hub threads. The clutch hub nut is threaded
61a"x26 T.P.l. to accommodate spring compressing bolt illustrated. B.S.A. tool number for
trtis iob ts 2?-89?0,
Chain Adjustments
Front Chain Adjustment-Z5O c.c., 350 c,c. antl 500 c.c. Singles-Wtren
up and down slack in chain exceeds 1", adjust to correct 7s" free slack
by slackening the two nuts below gearbox, "D," Illustration 90, and move
gearbox rearwards. Note-A draw bolt "E" is fitted to 350 c.c. and 500
c.c. models. No draw bolt is provided on 250 c.e. machines, and it is
III. 93
B.S,A. TTTI\ T-RO\T CEAT]i

ADTISTUENT .SITOE
s/Att-y2,tfree Up and down
movement is correct chain slack
with motor hot. If adjusting
cold. allow %". Ao reduce,
slacken locknut (B) and turn
screw (C) in. Retiahten lock-
nut when correct adjustment is
obtained.
necessary to tap gearbox to locate for the required adjustment. Retighten

the stud nuts securely after adjusting. Note-On these models, if both
front and rear chains are to be adjusted, front chain adjustment should
be effected first, as the movement of the gearbox upsets the rear chain
adjustment.
500 c.c. and 650 c.c. Iwin Front Chain AdjustmenL-Refer to Illustra-
tion 93. Note-This adjustment should be checked when the engine is
warm, when s/e"-a/2" free up and down slack is eorrect. If adjustment is
made cold, allow at least 5/s" slack. Note-When range of adjustment
runs out with the original shoe adjusting screw, a longer adjusting' screw
that will give further range of adjustment, is available, and will enable
additional life to be obtained from chain.
III.94
B.S.A. SINGLES F'RONT CIIAIN
ADJUSTMENT DR,AW BOLT
Latest model B.S.A- 350 c.c. and 500 c.c,
Singles and some earlier models, have ths
front chain adjustment illustrated. To
adjust, it is necessary to slacken nut on
left side of rear gearbox base bolt, and
on right side of front bolt. Draw bolt can
then be turned to give required adjustment,
of 3/s,,-1/2,, up and down slack, in tightest
spot. Early moalels have the Bearbox filler
plug located as illustrated. On later model
machines, oil is added through the clutch
adjustment screw cap opening.
Rear Ohain .&djustments
On all models, rear chain should be adjusted to give e/u" free slack
mid-way between sprockets. Adjustment should be made when slack
develops to Alk"-2".
425 c.c. Rea,r Chain .4.tljustment-A cycle type adjustment is used.
Slacken rear axle nuts, tighten draw bolt nuts an equal amount, retighten
axle nuts when required slack is obtained. Check brake adjustment.
2,50 c.c., 350 c.c. antl 500 c.e. Singles, Rigid Frame Rea,r Chain
Adjustment-This is effected by cams keyed to axle on either side of,
hub, operating against pegs on inside of rear frame forks. To adjust,
slacken rear axle nuts and slacken brake plate to frame anchor bolt at
front of right axle nut 250 c.c. models, and anchor arm nut below axle,
350 and 500 c.c. modeis. Turn squared ehd of axle. Note-It is advisable
to press up 4gainst back of, rear tire with foot to make sure that cams
contact both frame pegs. When correct adjustment is obtained, tighten
both axle nuts securely. Recheck rear brake adjustrnent.
250 c,c. Spring Frarne-Rear Chain Ailjustrnent-Drarr bolts are used
as for 125 c.c. model above.
350 c.c., 500 c.c. and 650 cli. Rear Chain Adjustment-Sprirlg Frame-
Slacken the small and large axle nuts on left side. Turn in adjusting screws
an equa-l amount to obtain required adjustment. Retighten the large axle
nut first, then the small axle nut. Check brake adjustment.
Genera,tor Chain Adjustments-Z50 c.c. Singles, 500 c.c. and 650 c.c.
T,wins-Adjustment of this chain should be checked every 5000 miles, and
adjusted to 7ro" slack in tightest point of chain mid-way between sprockets.
Recheck adjustment after tightening band clamp screw. Apply about {4
lb. grease to generator chain cover.
Section 6
FORKS, FB,AME AND WHEELS
Servicing B.S.A. Telescopic Forks

250 c:s, - 650 c.c. Motlels
Lubrication-S.A.E. No. 20 oil should be used for normal operation

at above freezing temperatures, below freeziqg-S.A.E. No. 10. For extra
heavy service conditions in extreme heat, S.A.E. No. 30 oil can be used.
Correct oil supply is )za pint in each leg. Normally, it is only necessary to
make a seasonal change of oil.
On the 125 c.c. model forks, grease gun lubrication only is provided.
Fork Oil Changing-On the first telescopic forks produced, no drain
plugs were provided and oil drainage ean be effected by leaning the machine
over on the side and removing the top plugs. On later models, a drain
plug is located at the bottom of each leg. On models equipped with drain
plug:s, where there is any doubt with regards to oil supply, the best pro-
cedure is to remove top plugs and drain screws, allow all oil to drain out,
replace plugs and pour la pint into each leg'.
On the earlier models, where it is desired to check the oil supply,
this can be done by removing the top plqgs and measuring the oil level.
Before measuring the level, the fork should be extended or compressed
as may be necessary, by tifting or pushing down handlebars so that the
distance between the bottom of the fork top cover and the groove at the
top end of the lower fork member, measures exactly 3". With the forks
in this position, oil level measured from the top bracket surface should
be as follows:250 c.c. models-20-22";350 c.c. and 500 c.c. single "B"
models-22-24"; 500 c.c.-650 c.c. Twin models-23-25".
Oil Leakage-Excessive oil leakage from forks may be due to rvorn
oil seals, and likely a wom bushing condition as well. Condition of
bushings can be judged by applying front brake and pushing back and
forth on handlebars, noting amount of movement between fork lower legs
and upper assembly, or a block can be placed under motor, Iifting front
wheel clear of ground, both fork legs grasped and the amount of back
and forth movement that ean be felt, noted.
Bushing Replacements-Replacement of the top slider bushing and
lower main tube bushing on each leg and replacement of oil seaIs, are not
usually necessary in under 15,000-20,000 miles of operation, except when
operating under unfavourable conditions where water and dust work past
the oil seals in some quantity.
EORKS, T'RAME AND WHEELS 265
Iu. 95
STEIORING HEAD BEARING

ADJUSTIIENI
To adjust head bearing on the telescopic
forks remove steering damper knob and the
top locknut (B). Slacken pinch bolt (C)
and tighten the adiusting sleeve (D) dovr'n
full},. using moderate pressure, then back
off about 140th turn. Correctness of adjust-
ment is best ehecked by placing a block
under motor to iift front wheel clear of
ground, steering should be perfectly free
{'ithout any perceptible play in head bear-
ing when fork legs are grasped and back
and forwards pressure applied.
Be sure to tighten the pinch bolt and stem
locknuL securel] a-[ter adjustinE.
Telescopic Fork Dismantling-Remove drain screws and drain oil,

Removal of either fork leg can be effected after front wheel is removed,
(Note-Front axle thread is left hand.) by slackening the pinch bolt at
inside of leg through lower fork lug, slackening the top cap screw one or
I two turns. A hammer blow on top of this cap screw plug will free the
tube from taper in the top bracket and allow the lower leg assembly with
main tube to be withdrawn. Care should be taken not to unscrew the top
cap plug more than necessary for this operation, otherwise threads may
be damaged. Where available, B.S.A. tool No. 61-3009 should be screwed
into the top tube and tube driven out, using this tool as drift.
ril. 96
g
N-'
FORK T,FG DISILA.IiTLING
After fork leg ls removed, lt is best held. for dismanuing iD vice,
i:-, as illustrated. B.S.A. tool No. 61-9005 illustrated above fork
{>,
rS, is for
r\, 1e8, used unscrewing the lower leg upper sleeye (D). If
(>,,, I
the special tool is not available, one can be made up from
pipe, cut with two ,,dogs,, to engage with the slots in bottom
of sleeve as lllustrated.
As an alternative, sleeve @n be unscrewed by gripping with
pipe wrench. This should be gripped towards the bottom ofa
sleeve, to avoid couapsing.
I After unscrewinet this sleeve, do not attempt to draw off over
top of tube or oit seal may be damaged. lvhen steeve is lifted
up, a circlip is revealed, which can be pried out, permitting
removal of the main tube, together with bushings. Sleeve (D)
should be slid off the lower end of main tube, after removal
of bottom nut and bottom bush.
III. 97
I'RONT T'ORK TEG REMOVAL

To remove fork leg, slacken pinch bolt (B), slacken top cap
screw (A) one or two turns, and strike sharp blow with hammer,
to free from top bracket, If fork tube is a tight fit in stem
lower lug, a screw driver can be driven between the slot at (B)
to spread lug.
r[. 98
T,ORII OIL SEAL

REMOVAI, AND
REPLACD}IENT TOOLS
(G) is B.S.A. tml No.
61-3006, for driving out
oil seel. (H) is B.S.A.
tool No. 61-3007 for in-
serting oil seal. Note oil
seal (I) should be fitted
with the open spring-
Ioaded end of oil seal to-
wards the threaded end
of sleeYe. facing down in
the flnal assembl]' on
forks.
Clamp lower fork leg axle lug in vice. Lift out spring. There are
two slots in the spring seating to accommodate B.S.A. tool No. 61-3006.
If this is not available, a suitable tool can easily be made up from a length
of pipe cut with two "dogs" to correspond with the slots in the spring
seating, or as an alternative, a pipe wrench can be applied carefully to
the lower end of the top tube section, and this top tube section unscrewed.
After this top tube spring seating sleeve is unscrewed, it can be withdraurn
upwards. Note-Do not draw up further than necessary so as to avold
stretching the oil seal on the larger diameter tube section.
A circlip at the top end of the lower leg is now revealed, and this
can be pried out. This will permit removal of the main tube, together
with the shouldered bushing that rests on the top end of the lorver leg
and the bushing attached to the lower end of the main tube. To remove
this, bottom nut must be unscrewed and bushing can be tapped off.
To secure the main tube for unscrewing' the bottom nut for bushing
removal, note that tube is clamped in vice towards the top and above the
area where the sliding bush operates, as any surface damage to the tube
in the area of the bushing travel may cause sticking or rapid rvear of
bushirlg. IJnscrewing the bottom nut enables both bushings to be slid off
to the bottom of tube.
Accident Damage-A minor bend in fork main tubes resulting from
accident damag'e can be straightened quite satisfactorily, providing the
bend is not in excess o1 r/n" off centre in the entire length. Tubes should
be supported on curved blocks and the pressure appiied with a similar
block to avoid flattening or in any way damaging tube surface, especiallSr
in the "sliding area." Straightening of badly bent tubes is not recommended,
as fracture may occur at later date.
Fork Stem and Lower Lug-Satisfactory straightening of this part
when bent is difficult and replacement is recommended.
F'ORKS, I'RAME AND WHEELS 267
Oil Sea.l Installation-Old oil seals can be drifted out of fork sleeves
with B.S.A. tool No. 61-3006 towards the threaded end and refitted with
B.S.A. tool No. 61-3007. In the absence of these tools, drifts of suitable
diameter can be used. It is important that drift for installing new oil seal
.- should be of the approxim.ate diameter of the oil seal but with thread
clearance. Oil seal should be installed with the open end of seal towards
the threaded end of sleeve, facing down in the assembled position on forks.
Fork Reassembly-Reverse the dismantling procedure, and note the
pinch bolts at inside of fork legs through lower fork lug are not finally
tightened until steering head beariag is adjusted and fork leg top cap
screws tightened,
Steerfur,g Head Bearings-If these have been dismantled, locate in
frame cups with thick grease when assembling and adjust as detailed with
Illustration No. 95.
Eear Spring Flamo Servicing-The simple plunger type rear spring
frame design is unlikely to require any servicilg for some years in normal
use, providing grease gun lubrieation is provided to the sliders regularly
at 1000-mile intervals.
Dismantling 725 c.c.-250 c.c. Boar Spring Framo-Refer to Illustration
99, which shows the internal construction. Bemove rear wheel and the
pinch bolts located at the top and bottom of plunger assembly. The centre
tube can now be removed upwards. Tap this out from bottom with hammer
and drift. The spriqg units can now be slid out of frame. If parts are
carefully laid out in order removed, there should be no diffieulty in
reassembling'.
fA) *'.
m 6Eg @
IE'
In. 99
@E B.S..{. 125 c.c.-250 c,c. IYPE
rc
SPRL\G FR.{ TE
mE This illustration shos's the parts layout of

125-250 c.c. tipe spring frame. Note-
heavj- spring fits at top; Iight spring at
B @a
bottom. No servielng ls nomally required
other than E:rease gun lubrication at norm-
E ally 1000-mile interyals. Refer to notes
i>'ril above and below for dismantiing ud
{tl€t reassembling procedure.
mffi (!)-{
o<
m sg D€(
Reassembling-After cleaning, lubricate all internal parts liberally

with grease. Note that the pinch bolts ',A" register with the
grooves in the centre tube, and that the groove in the slider registers with
bolt "D," Illustration 100. The heavy spring. is the upper, and the light
spring the lower.
350 c.c., 500 c.c. antl 650 c.c. Spdng: Frame Dismantling-After removal
of rear wheel and mufflers, remove pinch bolts "B" (Illustration
100) and remove top screw plug, "C." The centre tubes can now be tapped
up from beiow and withdrawn through the top, when the complete spring
assembly can be withdrawa from frame.
268 B.S.A. SERVICINq
Beassembly-Note that all parts are clean and liberaily coated with
grease, Heayy spdng fits at top, light spring at bottom. Note that the
pinch bolt at "D" eng'ag'es with the slot in slider, and the pinch bolt "A"
eng'ages with the slot in main centre tube.
IIl. 100
350 c.c., 50O c.o. anil 650 G.c.

N&AN, SPEING TR.AME
This part-sectioned iuustration shows the
spring frame assembly on 350-650 c.c.
moalels. NotFheavy spring is located. at
top; licht spring at bottom.
Front lilheel B,emoval-Telescopic Forks

1. Disconnect brake cable.
2. Remove front brake anchor bolts (Tkin models).
3. Slacken pinch bolt at bottom of left leg (except 125 c.c.).
4. IJnscrew the axle. Note-This has a left hand thread (except 725 c.c.)
and is unscrewed clockwise. On 250 c.c. models this has a hexagon head and
on larger machines there is a hole through the axle to enable a bar to be
fitted for unscrewing.
5. Axle can be pulled right out. Wheel can now be removed. Note-
On 500 c.c. and smaller Single models, brake plate must tre disengaged
from brake plate stop pe,g on fork leg.
Befitting Front Wheel Telescopic Forks-On 500 c.c. and smaller Single
models, note that the hole in brake plate lug fits over fork ieg brake stop
peg. After fitting axle and tightening, work forks up and dou,n a few
times before tightening pinch bolt at bottom of left fork leg.
Fork Steering Head Bearing Adjustment-This should be adjusted at
5000-mile intervals or sooner if excessive play is evident u'hen the front
brake is applied. Refer to Illustration No. 95 for adjusting procedure on
plunger type forks.
Fork Steering Head Bearing Adjustment-Girder Forks-Remove
steering damper knob, siacken top bracket pinch bolt, tighten down steering
head top nut with moderate pressure, then back off /16 of a turn. Retighten
head pinch bolt and tighten down top nut. Replace steering damper knob,
Steering head should be quite free with no perceptible clearance. This is
best checked by placing block under motor and lifting front wheel clear
off the ground.
Front Fork Link Bolt Atljustment-Early Type Girder Forks-To
adjust, slacken spindle locknuts. Tighten spindle bolts, back off about 7+
turn. Hold spindle bolt head with wrench and tighten locknut securely.
X'ORKS, F'RAME AND WHEELS 269
Note-that some end play is taken up due to a slight movement of link on

spindle threads in tightening of locknut. Make sure that fork link action
is quite free. Side play should be barely perceptible.
Fork Link Sptntllo Adjustment--Later Type Girder Forks-This type
can be identified from the early type described above by the square ends
on the fork spindles. To adjust, slacken nuts at both ends of spindle. To
reduce end ptay, unscrew spindle anti-clockwise, a small amount at a time.
Retighten locknuts and make sure forks are still free. To provide more end
play, turn spindle in clockwise. ft is most important that fork action should
be free after all nuts are seeurely tightened.
Wheels anil Brakes
rt. 101
B.S.A. EUB BEABING

ADJUST}IENT
25O e.c. models have adjust-
able cup and cone batl bear'
ing hubs as illustrated. To
adjust. slacken locknut A,
tighten adjustlng cone B,
with moderaie pressure, then
slacken off Ya turn and re-
tighten iocknut.
35O-50O c.c. singles have
taperetl roll€r bearings oa
rear wheels and on front on
girder fork modelE 1946 md
earller. Adjusting procedure
is as detailed above.
125 c.c. modets, 500-650 c.c.
twins also front wheels o[
350-500 c.c. plunger fork
models have non-adjustable
baU bealtngs. On these types
bearings should be replaed
when play at rim is %" or
more.
I
Brake Adjustments
I Front Brakes-On all models, a knurled cable adiuster is loeated at
bottom end of front brake ssHs-un5grewing adjuster reduces slack.
Adjust whenever brake lever can be drawn in almost to handlebar when
brako is fully applied. Make sure there is no brake drag after adjusting.
Bear Brako Adjustment-A knurled knob at the rear end of brake
rod adjusts rear brake on all models.
Rea,r Brake Shoo Centralizing-350 c.c., 500 c.c. and 650 c.c. Spring
Framo Models-Directly opposite the brake operating camshaft is a hexagon
nut on brake plate which secures the brake shoe pivot to brake plate. This
fits in a slotted hole and at intervals of at least 5000 miles, it is beneficial
to slaeken this nut, apply rear brake which will centralize shoes, and then
tighten this nut while brake is held on.
Rear Wheel Removal-500 c.c.-650 c.c. Iiear Spring Frame Models-
It is not necessary to disturb the chain or brake. Procedure is.to remove
the small nut on left end of axle, pull out the axle and remove the distance
piece between the right rear fork and hub. This will enable wheel to be
withdrawn off its splines and removed.
CTIAPTER SE\rEN
DOUGLAS SERI/ICING
This chapter provides a brief servicing coverag'e applying especially
to the 7947-1952 Doqglas 350 c.c. O.H.V. Twin models. X'or more detailed
servicing information, reference should be made to the manufacturer's
manual. An outline of average maintenance requirements as well as useful
maintenance information will be found in Chapter 4. Reference should be
made to Chapter 16 "Reeonditioning and Servicing British Models" for
servicing information .on components such as carburetors, magnetos,
generators and electrical systems.
Sectfurn 1
LUBR,ICATION
Grades of Motor OiI-F or recommended oil grades for varying temper-
atures, refer to lubrication section of Chapter 4, "Maintenance," page 126.
Motor Lubrication System-Oil supply is contained in the base of
crankcase. Pressure oil feed is provided by a vane type pump, r,r,'orm
driven from camshaft. Oil is drawn through a galJze filter surrounding
oil pump drive shaft, and pumped to the right crankshaft main bearing,
passing through the driiled crankshaft to the con-rod big-end bearings.
OiI returns to crankcase sump by gravity.
Motor Oitr Changing-The crankcase oil sump should be drained, flushed
out and refiiled with fresh oil of the correct grade, at 1000-mile intervals,
if operating under favourabie and comparatively dust-free conditions at
above freezing temperatures. IJnder dusty operating conditions, especially
where carburetor air cleaners are not fitted, oiL should be changed at
500-mile intervals.
When operating at temperatures below freezing, oil shoulC be changed
at 500-mi1e intervals or oftener, if there is evidence of r,r,ater accumulation
in oil.
Gearbox Lubrication-Motor oil of the same grade as used in motor.
(see page 126) is the recommended lubricant. Oil level shoulcl be checkecl
at 1000-mile intervals, and topped up as necessary. Drain and reiill at
5000-mile intervals or seasonally if there is a substantral change ia tem-
perature. Drain screw is located in right hand side of gearbox. Level stick
is attached to filler cap.
Front n''ork n ubricatioir-l'ork leg oil level should be checked e\-el.y
3000 miles, by removing the level plugs at the rear of the iink bearlng
housings on each leg. To add oil, remove the countersunk screrv in the
centre of bolt on top of each fork ieg. Add oil via this opening to restore
Ievel. Replace fiiler level screws. S.A.E. No. 20 oil is correct for normal
service. Fork oil can be drained by removing the fork leg bottorn encl caps.
CLEARANCEIS AND,SETTINGS 27L
Greaso Gun Luhrication-At 1000-mile intervals grease gun lubrication

should be provided to the grease nipples loeated at the steeriqg head, front
brake tor[ue link, rear spring: frame fork, wheel hubs and brake cam
spindles, s-peedometer gearbox and the clutch cam and thrust bearing. To
giin aciess to the clutch g:rease nipple, remove the inspection cover on
the left hand side of clutch housing.
Avoid over-Iubrication of the wheel hubs and brake cam bearings.
Not more than one or two shots should be provided with the standard
grease .gun, otherwise there is danger of grease workinS'onto brake linings.
Section 2
CLEAEANCES AND SETTINGS

Douglas 350 c.c. O.H.V.
Clearances and Settings Except "Plus" Models
Piston Clearanees
Pistons, cam ground
.006" cam, skirts taPered
Bottom of skirt......... .004"
Top of skirt............... .006r/2,,
Lower ring lands.... .010"
Second and top ring land.... .013"
.010"
.00r/2"
Piston pin in rod .008/+,,
Standard cylinder 60.8 mm.
Standard cylinder bore, 2.394"
Exhaust valve tappets *.005"
Inlet va;lve *.005"
Inlet valve .002"
Exhaust vr .0037/2"
Valve seat 45 degrees
36 degrees
.007,/2" - .007"
Right crankshaft bearing .001,'
Crankshaft end pIay........ .005" - .015,,
Con-rod side .003" - .005,,
Staudard Models 80 ancl 90 Plus

Models
Valve Timing
hlet opens before T.D.C. 22 degrees 55 degrees
Inlet closes after B.D.C.. 64 dqgrees 83 degrees
Exhaust opens before B.D.C........... 58 degrees 55 degrees
Exhaust closes after T.D.C............... 28 degrees 83 degrees
Carburetor Settings
Carburetor bore si2e.......
Main Jet....... 130
Throttle va]ve.............. 6/3
*Va1ve tappets on motors prior to No. 2146 require .002" clearance.

DOUGLAS SERVICING
Section 3
MO{IOR SER,VICING
Iop Motor Overhaul

IJnder average conditions a top motor overhaul involving carbon
removal, servicing valves and replaeing piston rings, is beneficial at
intervals of 5000 miles.
Dismantling-Remove exhaust pipes with silencers, spark piqgs and
-
carburetors. Revolve motor until pistons are about at top of stroke. Remove
rocker box coyers, followed by the four cylinder head stud nuts and the
nut under pushrod tunnei. cylinders can be withdrawn after removal of
the six cylinder base nuts. Cylinders should be marked. so as to ensure
refitting in original positions and the shims between cylinder and crank-
case should be removed with cylinders and replaced as originally fitted.
Parts Examination
After dismantling has been completed and parts cleaned up, eareful
examination should be made to determine the servicing and repiacements
necessary. x'irst of all a check should be made on the con-rod big-ends.
There should not be more than barely perceptible play in the con-rod big-ena
bearings, tested by pushing and pulling on the con-rod. A fair amount of
"rock" felt at the con-rod small ends, is norma_I. When con-rod straight
in and out big-end play is .005" or more, reconditioning should be undertaken.
Valves-All carbon and burned on deposits should be thoroughly
removed from valve stems and valves refaced. valves should be repliced
if stem wear exceeds .005,, and where heads are worn or warped to the
extent that a sharp edge results after refacing.
varvo Guitles-valve guides should be replaced if worn to give notice-
able clearance, tested with a 6/te,, .002,, oversize reseating pilot siem. Valve
seats should be reconditioned with an electric valve seat grinaer if available.
when valves are accurately refaeed and seats reconditioned lvith high
speed electric grinder equipment, no grindilg in is necessary.
Valvo Springs-Splilg. should be cornpared against new springs and
replacedif shortened t/s" or rnote.
Piston Rings-Piston rings should be replaced if gap, when placed
squarely on lower unworn end of cylinder, exceeds .030,,.
Piston in cylinder-Pistons should be replaced when skirt clearance
is .003" in of standard clearances shown on page 277, or when ring
excess
grooves are worn to give an excess of .007" ringside clearance in grooves.
cylinder reboring and oversize pistons are recommended when iyear at
cylinder head end of eylinder exceeds .008,,.
valve Tappets-Examine condition of tappets (cam folrowers) for
wear on the eam bearing surfaces. Replace if noticeably worn or scored.
MOTOIi SE:RVICING
Top Overhaul Beassembly
First make sure that all joint surfaces are clean and that the brass
joint shims at the cylinder base are undamaged. Oil pistons and cylinders,
and if pistons have been removed, note that lock rings are correctly refitted,
securing piston pins. When fitting eylinders hote that they are replaced
in their original positions. When refitting the cylinder base nuts, note the
one long nut is fitted to the top of the leftiand cylinder, near the clutch
inspection cover.
Revolve motor so that pistons are at top of stroke. Install pushrods,
noting that they locate correctly on the tappets. Install cylinder heads,
noting that rockers register with the pushrods. Tighten cylinder head stud
nuts progressively. Make certain that the pushrods are eorrectly located
on the tappets and rockers before tightening head fully, Tighten the four
large cylinder head stud nuts first, followed by tightening the small nut
under the pushrod tunnel. Before refitting the rocker covers, adjust tappet
clearances to .005".
The remainder of the assembly is quite straightforward. Nevr
carburetor flange joint gaskets should be installed. When cleaning
carburetors it should be noted that main jet sizes and needle jet throttle
clip settings are identical.
Ilqiu Carburetors-Adjusting-ft is most important that the control
cables be adjusted so that the throttle valve in each carburetor opens
simultaneously. This can be best observed before carburetors are fitted
to eylinder heads, looking: at throttle valve from the cylinder head side of
earburetor.
To equalize the idling adjustment of each earburetor, the best method
is to adjust carburetors individually. Remove one spark plug and ground
the high tension wire removed. Start up motor and adjust idling speed
and mixture on one cylinder. After this is done, refit the spark plug that
is removed, and remove plug from the cylinder that has just been adjusted.
Start up and adjust idling mixture and idling speed on the other cylinder
to give an equalized idling speed adjustment. ff any adjustment to idling
speed is desired, after both plug's are in operation, adjust an equal amount
on each carburetor.
Completo Motor Overhaul

This will not normally be undertaken until excessive con-rod big-end
bearing clearance has developed.
Motor Removal-tr'irst drain motor and gearbox oil, remove the gas
tank, exhaust pipes, carburetors, battery, disconnect elutch cable, generator
wires, etc., and rear chain. Remove the right crash bar-if fitted. Before
removing the footrest rod, block up the transmission from below to support
when rod is removed. Note that the spacing collars and shims between the
frame and the transmission are replaced on the rod so they will be refitted
in their original positions.
To remove the motor and transmission unit, it shoutd be first moved
forward in the frame as far as possible; then the rear should be lifted up
and the unit brought out to the right side.
274 DOUGLAS SERVICING
Eemoving Gearbox From Motor-Gearbox is secured to motor by seven

screws. After their removal, gearbox can be withdrawn.
Cylinder and Heads-Remova1 of these is quite straightforward as
detailed under "Top Motor Overhaul.',
DOUGLAS CA]II GEARS
This lllustration shows the
timing gear markin8s and
the meshing required on as-
sembly to 81ve correct valve
timing. When lnspecting
cam gears, lt should not b.e
assumed that timing is in-
correct if markings do not
line up. It may be necessary
to reYolve the motor quite a
number of times until the
correct registering of milks
is obtained, due to the varia-
tion in number of teeth on
the ldler and cm gears.
The marks on the cam idler
can be disregarded providing
the marked tooth otr the
crankshaft gear meshes s'ith
the idler gear md the marked
rlr. 102
tooth on each cm gear is
the "in mesh" tooth witlr
the cam idler gear.
Timing Qssls-ftgrneve the timing cover and the crankshaft pinion
nut. rf it is just desired to remove the crankshaft assembly for ser'vicing
the con-rod big-end bearings, it is not necessary to disturd trre camsnatt
gears or the cam idler gear.
IU. 103
DOUGLI\S OIL Pr}IP
No oil pump seryicing is norm-
ally r€quired, however, at inte!-
vals of about 5000 miles md
when overhauling, oil pm!
should be B'ithdrar-n and the
gauze filter s.ashed, On reassem-
bling. nore tiat lhe cork gasket ;
is fitted betB'een the pump bod]'
and crankcffie. Observe that the
REILIOYABLE GAUZE two rotor vanes are in position
with the spriDg ln betwean, and
the paper gasket ls fitted on the
rotor cover plate joint.
Fb/wheel Removal-Removal of the clutch inspection cover rvill enable

the clutch cable to be disconnected. Remove the -crankshaft flynvheel nut
cotter pin and nut. Flyvuheel is a taper fit on crankshaft and ihe factory
puller for removal is shown in lll. No. 104. If this is not available, a puler
can easily be made up of similar pattern to that illustrated. After applying
pressure to the centre sgrew fl1'vgheel puller, strike end of screw a'srrari
blow with hammer. This rvill9fdraw fly'rrheel from crankshaft taper.
IGNITION TIMING 275
Separating Crankcases-Remove the crankshaft timi4g gear, the four

nuts inside the clutch housing and the three nuts on the front underside
of crankcase, Heat drive side (rear) crankcase half to boiling water tem-
perature to free ball bearing outi:r race. Crankcase halves can be separated
by a tap on drive end of crankshaft.
8OLT.
HOLAN, PIATE.
IIl. 104
THRUET CLUTCII ASSEMBLY
PRTSSURT PUTE. BEARIN6. AND T'T,YVYEEEL
EXTR,ACTOR
This illustration shows
ORIVIN PLATT, a cross section of
the flywheel clutch
and shows the factory
type extraetor fitted
for pulling rhe fly-
wheel off the crank-
shaft taper. ff this
extractol is not avail-
able, one can easily
be made up of similar
pattern, from ah"
steel plate threadeal
to accommodate a
sentral screw and
driUed to take two
bolts that thread lnto
fLYWHEfL TRACTOR. flywheel hub as il-
lustrated. After ln-
stalling extractor,
tighten up centre
CAM ER.
screw and give a
fLYWHTEL. sharp blow wittr
hammer-
CLUTCH WTHOMWAI CAM.
CLUTCH 02). OUTER PUTE.
Crankshatt and Con-rod Big-enil Bearing Servicing-It is recommended

that this servicing be done at the factory if possible, or the crankshaft
assembly exchanged for a factory serviced part. rf crankshaft dismaniling
and reassembling is to be undertaken, it is essential that it be accurately
re-aligned when assembled.
Right Crankcase Plain Bearing-Replace if shaft clearance exceeds
.003". Correct clearance is .001".
Crankcase Rea,ssembly-Heat left crankcase to at least boiling water
temperature if reassembling with crankshaft ball bearing fitted to crank-
shaft. Appty jointing eompound to crankcase joint surfaces and tap
together, noti4g that joints come up fully before bolting up.
Section 4
IGNITION TIMING
Before fitting the
magdyno, screw the lefthand side magdyno clamp
rod into crankcase. tr'it joint gasket and fit magdyno into position. Tighten
magdynro down.
1. Set breaker point gap .0L2" gap fully open.

2. Revolve motor so that pistons are 36 degrees before top of stroke.
3. Set ignition control in fully advanced position.
4. Revolve magneto in running direction so that breaker points are just
commencing' to separate.
5, Have magneto pickups removed and note that the brass contact on
collector ring registers with the pickup opening on the side on which
the piston is on compression stroke (both valves closed)'
6. Note that armature shaft and ma,gneto gear tapers are clean and dry.
Install magneto gear, fixing into position by e-iviqg a s-harp .rap using
a tube spalcer ovGr shaft. figfrten up nut and check that timing has
not slipped during this operation.
Manufacturers recommend that timing be checked with a degree plate.
An approximate check on timing, however, can be made by observing
breakei point opening in relation to piston position. Breaker points should
just comhence [o open when pistons axe 5A6'11/h2" before top of stroke (spark
advanced and approximately at top of stroke with spark retarded)'
Section 5
GE/TBBOX AND CLUTCH
ilflNSHlFr
FROII
CLUfCH.
fINAL ORIVT
fiCK-START UYSHr'FT ASST/,,IBLY

SELECTOR QUAORANT E SPINDLT.
IIr. 105
DOUGI.ASI GEABBOX
Ttis part-secttoDed lllustratlon shows thc lnterEal gearbox assembly.
F'ORKS, ERAME AND WHEELS 277
trI. 106
DOUGI-A.S CLUTCII CONTEOL

ADJUSTMENT
A minimum of 116" free cable
slack measured at the handle-
bar lever nipple should be main-
tained in the clutch control at
aU times. To increase slack,
slacken the cable adjuster lock
nut and turn the cable adiuster
in. To reduce slack, turn the
cable adjuster out,
'\n hen the adjustment on
the
cable adjuster becomes ex-
hausted, which will usually
be from Deed to provide extra
slack, resultinB in the adjuster
being screwed fuuy in, adjust-
ment should be made on the
adjustable arm showD. To ad-
aaDrillan EtlQu
just, remoYe the lnspection
cover, slacken the adjustable
arm bolt, then turn the cable
adjuster fairly well out. Set the
clutch operating arm to pro-
\rd.e U.6"-t6" free cable slack.
and tighten the adjustable am
nut securely. Further adjust-
ment can then be effected by
the eable adjuster.
Do not overlook the clutch
release cam and thrust bearing
greue nipple above the adjust-
able arm. This should be tubri-
cated at least every 1000 miles.
Eear Chain
Rear chain should be adjusted at 1000-mile intervals. Correct adjust-
ment is T+" up and dowrr play measured midway between the sproekets.
To adjust, slacken rear axle nuts, the nuts securing the chain guard to
the anchor plate and the bolts securing anchor plate to fork. Turn adjusting
screws an equal amount and retighten all nuts and bolts securely.
Section 6
E'ORKS, F'RAME AND WIIEELS
Front Forks
rn normal service, no attention will be necessary until a considerable
mileqge has been covered, exeepting 1ubrication, -which is covered in
section 1 of this chapter. rll. No. 10T reveals the constructional details of
the Douglas Radiadraulic fork which differs very considerably from the
conventional plunger type forks. s.A.E. No. 20 oil is the standaid lubricant
for normal service. s.A.E. 'No. B0 oil can be used for extreme heat or
heavy serviee conditions where additional damping is required.
SPRING.
Rf,ACT/ON LINK;
PLUNGER.
OIL LEVEI PLUG,
1r;
WHEEL LIIIK.
WHETL SPINDLE. ASC YALI/E.
ru. 107
DOUGLAS R.A,DIADRAULIC I.BONI r.ORE

This part-sectioned. lllustratlon of the left fork l€g reveals constructional details
comon to both fork legs anal shows the genera] ssembly. On models prior to
ttre Mark V, tapered springs were used mil should be installed s'ith the large eod up.
Ftont lYheel
Non-adjustable ball type bearings are used. To remove front wheel,
disconneet brake cable and break anchor bolt at rear of torque arm. Remove
nut at right end of axle and pull axle out.
Bearings are a light press fit in hub and when replacements are
necessary, are easily drifted out.
Rear Wheel
Rear wheel is removed by slackening axle nuts, disconnecting chain,
brake rod, brake anchor. Bearings are non-adjustable ball type.
Douglas Torsion Bar Rear Frarne Springing

Illustration No. 108 shows constructional details of the Douglas Torsion
Bar type Rear Frame Springing, which is substantially different from
other rear springing systems. Normally, no attention is required other than
g'rease gun lubricationat 1000-mile intervals.
Dismantling is not recommended unless necessary, ff Torsion Bars
are removed, they must be handled with extreme care to avoid any surface
damage. When refitti4g, note-Torsion Bars should be liberally coated
with grease and correctly installed. The painted ends fit toward the front
of the machine. Originally the left side Torsion Bar was painted with a
red band, and subsequently identified by yellow. The right hand bar is
marked green. The manufacturers recommend fitting a balanced pair of
Torsion Bars when a replacement is being made.
tr'ORKS, T'RAME AND WHE}ELS 279
P|V1TP|N l1cK/t'/o P/
rbffia
/.
H,-ffi-**'*:
FRAN|A/THORA,E BRACKEf,, BOtrAM TRAM? TUBE.
In.
iffffiy=,ffi
108
TORSION BAR, RDAR, SPRINGING LAYOUT
The standard lever setting on assembling is for the fork levers to be

at an ang'le of 30 degrees below the horizontal, with the motorcycle
unloaded. tr'or service with a heavy rider and passenger, the levers can be
set one serration lower on the Torsion Bars.
CHAPTER EIGHT
MATCHLBSS A1TD A.J.S. SERYICING

Note-This chapter covers servicing procedure applicable to most
Matchless and A.J,S. Single cylinder 350 e.c. and 500 c,c' O.H.V. models
from 1934 to 7952, and the eurrent 500 c.c. O.H.V' Vertical Twin model'
F or information on operating refer to Chapter 3, and for general mainte-
nance information, to Chapter 4. Reference should be made to Chapter 16,
"Reconditioning and Servicing British Modets," for servicing information
on components such as carburetors, magnetos, generators, electrical systems
and gearboxes.
Seetion L
LUBRICATION
Grades of Motor Oil-For recommended oil gtades for varying temper-
atures, refer to Lubrication Section of Chapter 4, "Maintenancel" page 126.
Motor Oil Cha,nging-The motor oil tank should be drained, flushed
out and refilled with fresh oil of the correct grade, at 1000-mile intervals,
when operating under favorable and comparatively dust-free conditions at
above freezing temperatures. IJnder dusty operating conditions, especially
where carburetor air cleaner is not fitted, oil should be changed at 500-mile
intervals.
When operating in temperatures below freezing, oil should be changed
at 500-miie intervals or oftener, if there is evidence of water accumulating:
in oil. Oil dilution is most prevalent when machines are used on short runs
in cold weather. IJnder some conditions, oil changing at interwals of 200
miles may be found advisable to maintain the lubrication system in an
efficient state.
Oil Ta,nk Filters-Singles and Trvins-Ill. 109 shows the felt type relurn
oil filter which can be removed for cleaning via the screw plug opening
at top of oil tank, and the wire g:auze type feed filter located at the top of
the oil tank feed line to pump. Both filters should be washed in gasoline
when oil is changed.
On the 1950 and earlier models, access to the feed filter is gained by
unscrewing the oil feed pipe union below tank. On the 1951 and later
models with the rubber connection replacing the union nut, procedure is
to pull down on the rubber connection at top end of oil feed pipe belorv tank.
Filter thimble may come away with rubber connection. lf not, it is easily
withdrawn from tank outlet, When refitting, note that rubber connection
is shoved fully up as far as it will go into the tank outlet.
Crankcase Oil Filter-Twin Models-fhis is located on left side of
crankcase, directly beiow generator, and can be removed after unscrewing
the hexagon headed plug. Wash filter in gasoline and dry off before
refitting. This filter should be serviced at least every 2000 miles. When
refitting filter, note that the aluminum seating plug is refitted in the
inside end of filter.
Oil Pressure Release Valves-Twin Models-fhis is located in the
lower front nght side of crankcase as seen in I1l. 117. This should not be
disturbed except for cleaning when overhauliqg. This valve only operates
LUBRICATION 28L
to release oil pressure in excess of 140 lbs., and operates briefly only when
starting up from eold. If it is desired to check on the bearing'oil pressure,
this can be done by equipping an oil pressure gauge with a fitting that
will thread into the crankcase oil filter screw plug when the centre screw
is removed. When bearing's are in good condition, oil pressure at a fast
idling speed will rang'e between 20 and 40 lbs. when motor is warm. Higher
pressure is normal when motor is cold and motor speed is increased. If
pressure reads below 10 lbs. at a fast idle, it is an indication that excessive
con-rod big-end and centre crankshaft bearing clearances have developed,
assuming that oil supply is not diluted and that feed pump is operating
efficiently.
Oil Pump-Single Models-This is a reciprocating and rotating plunger
driven from worm on right flywheel shaft. The front (small) end of plunger
is the feed pump, and the rear (large) end is the return.
Oil is pumped via the dght fll rheel shaft main bearing: to the con-rod
big'-end, cylinder wall, valve rockers, inlet valve guide and timing gear
case. Oil return is via drilled passageway from bottom of cranl<case
through return pump and filter into tank.
Oil Pump-L94? a.nil Later Single Models-A large increase in oil
pump capacity and oil circulation was provided starting on the 1947
models, by use of a "double start" worm on flytvheel shaft, and with a
new pump plung'er with drive teeth modified for the new worm, driving
pump at increased speed. ff oil pump replacements are being made on the
1946 and earlier models, it should be noted that if a later tl4re oil pump
plu4ger is to be fitted, the new type right flywheet shaft with modified
driving worm must also be fitted to match.
Oil Pump Trouble-Single Models-Oil pump failure is unusual and
if oil is evident returning to tank when the filler cap is removed with
motor running, it can be assumed that pump is operating satisfactorily.
X'ailure to pump oil may be due to a stripped driving w'orm on the right
flywheel shaft, or teeth on pump plunger stripped. This type of failure
is most likely to occur when operatlng in below freezing temperatures, as
a result of ice formation in pump, or from a badly worn right fiywheel
shaft bearing.
To check operation of pump, remove one o,f the oil pump plunger
end covers. If gear teeth are stripped, the plunger will neither rotate nor
reciprocate when motor is running. Plung'er can be removed for examina-
tion via the rear end opening after the guide screw shown in Il1. 110 is
withdrawn. ff teeth on oil pump plu4ger are stripped, the driving worm
on right flyr;uheel shajt should be inspected. If damaged, complete dis-
mantling of motor will be required to replace this f1y'wheel shaft.
If the oil pump plunger is obserwed to rotate but has not a regular
and positive reciprocating action, trouble is the end of guide screw that
engag'es rvith the cam-track in plunger has sheared off. This is easily
checked and replaced.
Inlet Valve Oiling Adjustment-Single models have an adjustabls oil
feed to the inlet valve guide. Standard setting is about t/z turn open from
the fully closed position of needle. Squeaking is sometimes an indication
that oil supply is insufficient, and exhaust smoking and spark plug oiling
are indieations of this being set open too much, providlng piston and
cylinder condition is good.
Twin Modbl Oil Purnps-TWo separate gear pumps are fitted to plate
inside of timing cover. The feed pump is driven from the exhaust (front
camshaft) and the return pump from the inlet (rear camshaft).
282 MATCHLEISS AND A,J.S. SERVICING
WI?H CAP FEMOVTO
tHE oll FLOW ts vlslct.e
Ilt. 109
OIL IANII AND T'ILTERS
fhis part sectioned illustration shows theretum
feed
filter sereen aud th€ felt cartridg€ typ€ re'
filter. Tek should be flushed out, filters
moved md washed in solYent at oil chatrg€
periods.
GAUZE
6tRAINEP
FEEO TO
PUMP
trI. 110
SINGT,E MODELS OIL PUMP

Ttlis iUustration shows rear end cap of
oil pump plunger remoyed and plunEer
withdrawn to reyeal ths "cam-grooye"
that imparts tho reclprocating action.
Note the guide screw that must first be
removed before plunger can be with-
alrawn.
Gearbox Lubrication
On the 1947 and earlier model gearboxes, ilght I'rease such as a
mixture of half and half chassis g'rease and S.A.E. No. i10 motor oil, is
the most suitable lubricant. When using this lubricant, addition of r+ Ib.
of lubricant at 2000-mile intervals is usually sufficient.
On 1948 and later model gearboxes, with the ruhber oil seal on Lhe ma:n
drive gear bearing, motor oil shouid be used of the same grade as for
engine. See page 126. Correct oit supply is one pint. No ievel plug rras
fitted on the 1951 and earlier gearboxes, and oil supply can be measured
lvith a wire or rod through the filler plug opening. Level shouid be approxi'
mately up to bottom of klckstarter shaft.
1952 models have the level plug located near the kickstarter shaft.
On oil lubricated gearboxes, oil tevel should be checked and topped up as
necessalT/ every 1000-mi1es.
Teledraulic Fork Lubrication

l\taintenance of the correct quantity of oil in the front forks provides
ali required fork lubrieation. It is most important that too heavy an oil
shorllcl not be used. For normal service, S.A.E, No. 20 is recommended.
LUBRICATTON 283
tr'or operation in below freezing temperatures, S.A.E. No, 10. For extreme
heat and heavy serwice conditions, S,A.E. No. 30 can be used, but this is
the heaviest that should be used under any circumstances. It should be
noted that the quantity of oil used and procedure for checking vary slightly
on different models, as detailed below.
1942-L947 X'ork OiI Supply

1. Support motorcycle vertically with weight on both wheels. (Support
under each footrest is a convenient method of supporting.)
2. Unscrew the two hexagon plugs at top of fork tubes.
3. PuU upwards each plug as far as possible (attached to the plugs
are the fork damper rods. Rods will now be exposed.)
4. Work plugs and rods up and down several times (pumping aetion)
making upward strokes quickly. This a.ction is to eject any hydraulic
fluid that may be trapped in the tubes above the damper valves.
5. Wait two minutes (to allow ejected oil to drain to main supply).
6. Remove level screws. These are lo,cated on each lower leg just under
the mudg:uard bridge fixing bolts.
7. Oil should just ooze from oil level holes if oil supply is correct.
8. If no oil appears, add by pouring down each fork inner tube about
I
two tablespoons full S.A.E. No. 20 oil.
9. Repeat pumpiqg action (para. 4).
I
10. Wait two minutes (to allow oil time to trickle out of holes).
1
11. Let all excess oil leak away.
i
12. If no oil appears, repeat as paras. 8 and 9.
13. Replace oi] level screws. Note fibre washer on each screw.
14. Replace top fork leg hexagon plugs and tighten securely.
15. Oil capacity is 6% ounces per leg and when filling forks that have
just been assembled, use this amount instead of above procedure.
L948-1950 Fork Oil Supply
A ehange in the fork design incorporating a shuttle damper and
elimination of the damper tubes fitted to the earlier models, results in an
in the oil supply for each leg to 10 ounces.
i.ncrease
Recommended draining and refilling procedure is to place the block
under motor to lift front wheel clear o,f ground; remove top leg hexagon
plugs and lower leg drain screws; 8-8t/2 ounces of oil should drain from each
leg. By replacing the drain screws and working legs up and down a few
times, then removing drain screws, a further ounce of oil should drain out.
The full 10 ounces will not drain out, and except where forks are being
refilled after complete dismantli4g, 9/2 ounces of oil is all that should be
added when refilling.
1:95l-Lg52 Fork Lubrication
Correct oit supply for each leg is 6% fluid ounces (185 c.c.). As level
plugs are not provided, best policy is to drain at 3000-5000-mile intervals.
Drain screw is located at the outside of bottom of each lower leg'. Remove
drain screw and unscrew the plugs at the top of fork legs; then refit drain
plugs and work top plugs to which damper rods are attached, up and down,
making upward strokes as quick as possible. This pumping action ejects
oil trapped in the damper tubes above the damper disc valve. Wait tryo
284 MATCHLESS AND A.J.S. SERVICING
minutes, and remove drain pIuB again. This action can be repeated, and
when no further oil drains off, replace drain plugs and add 6 ounces (1?0
c.c.) of S.A.E. No. 20 oil to each leg. Although the capacity is Iisted at
672 ounces, it is not possible to drain off all tlie oil from 1egi, and adding
6 ounces after draining, as described above, provides full oii supply.
Spring flame Leg OiI Supply
is
evidence of oil leakage, there should be no need to
IJnless there
examine spring frame lqgs, or add oil in under 15,000-20,000 miles of
operation. The correct oil supply in the 1949-1950 models is 1sla ounces (50
c.c.) of oil to each leg, and in the 1951-1952 machines,2sls ounces (75 c.c.)
to each leg.
G;
IU. 111
MATCHLESS LUBRICATION POINTS
Pfut Lubrication
1. Motor OlI T4trk............. .....................fIotor Oil (R Pace 126
f o. gmde )
19. Frmt Chaincase............ ..............Ifotor Otl
4. Teletlraulic tr'orks................... ....îlfotor Oil (S,-{.E, 20)
13. Speeito DriYe Gearllox.. .....................Gras Gu
2. Front lrub.......,.............. ,............Greas cu
3. Rear IIub.-.... . Greas Gm
11. Steering Head Bearings.. .........Greas Gu
1?. R€il Brako Pedal Grem Gu
5. near Chain... ..........Gmm or Oil

?. Controls md Lever Pivots...............,... ................. Oif
8. Bmke R,od Joints.......... ..............Oif
9. Steru1s............ .................................Otl
12. Gembox....... ..,..Oil-1948 md later modets,
@pacitJ 1 pint. 19{7 &d
earlier models. se4i-liqulal
greaEe, capaclty L-Bl lbs.
CLEARANCES AND SE}TTINGS 285
Seetlon ?
CI,EAR,ANCES AND SETTINGS
350 c.c. 50O c.c.

MATCIILESS AND A.J.S. .V. Singles O.II.V. Singles
50O c,c.
O.II.V, Twins
Piston Cle&rm@Forigimt Tyrre
Wire Wouil Pist@s
Bottoe of skirt......-.............. .O0 3/+" .o0 34,, .o0lz"
Top of skirt...... .001". .001" .0Os/+"
Eepolite "S.W." Slott€il Sktt
Iyrro PistmF.o1z,, Cu
Bottom of skirt..................... .o02" .00214,, .002"
Top of skirt...... .002" .0021,b,, .o02"
Lower ring lands............. .0L4" .016" .074"
2trd anat top ring 1ana1s.......,.....-...-.. .018" .020" .018"
Bold Sklrt fYpo PtstonF.O06,,-b10,, Cm
BottoE of skirt.... .o041/2,, .005,,
Top of skirt.... .006" .0O61/2"
Round Finished Piston$
Slotted Skirt Tlpe
Bottom of skirt........................- .oo4" .O041/2,,
Top of skir1.............. ............,..."" .O04Yz" .005Y2,'
Piston ring. joinr gap.................... .015" .018" .o12,,
5lllgl pln in piston rrisht hand_push fit)..... .000,' .000" .000,,
rrston pin in rod (reamed).... .O01/2,, .001/2,, .oo1/+"
Piston pin in roa rnonea,]....................:..:......::. .001" .00lht,
.001"
Stanatard cylinder bortsinches
Standard cylinder bore-mm...., 2.718Y2" 3.250" 3.598"
69.06 mm, 82.55 mm. 66 mm.
fnl,et valve tappet clearance rmotor cold)...., .000" .000" .006,,
.Ejxhaust valve tappet clearance (motor
cold)..................... .o01" .001" .006"
Inlet vatye stem creaiance i; ilil;...............-.
Exha usr
.O031/2" .OO31/z', .0O21/2 "
valve seat"uLue "t"in "i"";;;"" i"*;ri;;.........
an91e....................... -15
.0Mlz"
degrees
.o04y2't
45 degrees
.004"
45 degrees
rn et valve
.su:-d e projecis' i;;;- ;;;;....:....:... .,6
t
Exnaust vatye guide projecrs from neaa....... .,6
H,"*i?x,flt""i:iiJnJ'*1,,,,,,,,,,:::::::::::::::::: ,012" .o72" ,012"

.018" .018" .018"
trA1ih#lliT:{:1-Ti:H;;il 001/2" -.O07" .001'.

.001" .001"
Va,lve Timing
Inlet opens before T.D.C...,..... 32 degrees 32 degTees 35 degrees
fnlet clwes aftr R a'--""
'D
63 degreeB
Exhaust opens before BjiC.""""""" """""' 63 degxees 65 degrees
Exhaust closes after T.D.C..""" "-" "" """'' 65
30
degrees
degrees
65 degrees
30 degrees
65 degrees
35 degrees
Cubwtc Setfings
L" 4,,
130 16"0' 160
150 180 180
NeeatJlei-siie.l 6/4 29 /4 6/4
.1065 .1065 .1065
Valve Timing Note-The opening' and closing points specified. above

are_with the tappets set to.016r,, on Single model-s, and Lo-.Ol2,,on Twin
models. Reset to correct operating clearaices after timing is checked.
Spark Plugs-l/2" length reach spark plug standard except models
with aluminum head, require long reach plugs.
Section 3
MO{IOR SEEVICING
(a) 350 c.c.-500 c.c. O.H.V. Singles

TOP MOTOB OVERIIAUL
Ihis is ,generally required at intervals of 5000-10,000 miles, depending

upon operating conditions, Excessive engine noise, loss of compression,
reduced performance and excessive oil consumption indicate need of top
motor overhaul.
Dismantling-Procedure is quite straightforward, and information
given in Section 1 of Chapter 16 "Reconditioning and Servicing British
Models" will be found generally applicable. tr'irst remove gas tank, folion-ed
by spark plug, carburetor, rocker box side cover and rocker box. Next,
remove cylinder head, eylinder block and piston. It is not essential to
remove piston from rod, but removal enables a better job to be done of
cleaning the carbon from the bottom o ring grooves, and also facilitates
checking piston-cylinder clearance.
After the top end dismantling is completed, a check should be made
on the con-rod big-end bearing and flywheel mainshaft bearings. lo
determine whether crankcase servicing is necessary. IJnIess there is more
than just barety perceptible straight up and down play in the con-roC
bi,g-end bearings, attention is nol necessary. A check should be n:ale
particularly on the right flywheel shaft bearing clearance. This bea:ing
is of relatively small dimensions, and quite often excessive clear'ance
develops at as low as 10,000 miles. Condition of this bearing can be judged
fairly weII by grasping the connecting rod firmly and lifting up and cio-t':r.
and feeling for actuai lift in the right flywheel. If there is noticeable
lift in the right flywheel, bearing replacement. is Iikely necessar5'. ar-:
reference should be made to the notes on crankcase servicing thai follo'.','.
Condition of the left flylvheel shaft main bearings, is mos: eas--;'-
checked by removal of primary chaincase, and lifting lrp a:ld Co*-r on
engine drive sprocket. Mainshaft bearing replacements are recor-r:n--e:1,:e:
rvhen straight up and down clearance exceeds .005" in either 1'-gh[ ot ]e::
side bearings.
Assuming that the con-rod big-end anfl fly'li'heel mainsha:i i,:earir.:s
are in satisfactory condition, crankcase should be flushed out an,i coi'e:eC
over, a\ raiting completion of the top overhaul bencir rrork.
PARTS EXA}EIN'ATION
After dismantling has been completed, ancl palts cleaned up. a calei.tl
examination shouid i:e made to determine the serr-icing: 1'eplacements
n.1cessary.
Fiston-Reference should be made to the clearances and settings ci:ari
for standard piston clearances. Normally, unless a piston seizure has been
experienced, piston replacement wiII not be necessary until reboring, r\.h:ch
is recommended when cylinder wear at the top end of ring travel exceeds
.008". Pistons should, however, be replaced whenever ring groor-e \\-ear' ls
MOTOR SERVICING 287
such that ring side elearance in groove is in excess of.007", or when piston
clearances are .003-,004" in excess of standard clearances. When checking
clearances, note the various t1'pes on which clearances differ, shown on the
clearance chart.
HaO
F€KEE &x SLt. sgr
MR BOX EOLA LOBq
loc€P sx cowR Nst tsuo
iEGF BOX COWR STUO o1t PlPg UN|S
tgcEP BOx sAe COVER
nocKqR Eox
cYsNS€R H€Atr BOtr

NEE*g SCRE! - L'CX M
HEEU.E AtrJUSTTNq SCR#
CYUB6'R HEA6
HES c\gxtr
COMPRESgON RINO
OIL SCEAFEEI FINE
GUOG@N hN C\BCUP
GUOGE$T trIX
GIJBCON P{N BUgg
coNNegnNc eoo
Pl STON
HIONIf,O CHAIN COVE,R
nMrNe covER CYLINoER BAFFEL
coMFn69ON P!A?e
COr'ER'T1JB4 WASHET AASE SruO
COVER TUBE C,IANO crrs€R BesE 3?l5 Nu't
?IMINC SIOE FLY!+€EL
BG-END BASE VAUq
TAFPET.GUIOE ,ORIVINq slOE FLWHeEL
CRANK P'N NUA CQNKPIN VASgLR
CAI4SHAFT BUSH -dUNE|at
CRANKPIN ROLLER
CAMSHAN KiY_
CAMSHST GE,AR CFNKPIN FALI-ER CAOE
CAHSHAil CPAN(PIN NUT
I4IENETO OHVE SFROCXET CRANKPIN
cr?lvNo soL BUBE\RINC
.SPACING WASHER
SPROCXET NUA SPACING COLLAR
COLLAQ
WASHE,R
iMINO SIOE BUSH
?lMr!\E| aNroN +
NM1NG S]6E SXAFT
TIMING FIN1ON NS
TfiIN+PINION KEY
iMING CryE,R SCHBW
FOIEN WINGffiR RrcE
PsW PLUNGTR _-
ROLLERS
TIMING SHAFA NUT ABSORSER CA,!l
SPHCCKiI
ORIVING SItrE SHAF1
TIMING SIo. CUNKCASE
BRMNG SIDE CRAN€$e
-
ORVNG S1E SHAN €(
ORIVINESOE SHAil M
CRAree eOLl hul
CRANKCBE BOLA
III. 112
TIIE MATCIII;ESS 350 G.a. O.E.V. MOTOR,

This part sectioned illustration shows most details of construction and assembly common to
Matchless and A.J.S. 350 and 500 c.c. O.H.V. single motors. The riSht flywheel shaft bearing
layout shown comprising shod bush and roller bearing was last used on 1946 models. AU
latex si.ngle motors haYe a single fu11 length bushing replacing the roller bearing.
The chief distinction between Matchless and A.J.S. Single motors ts in the maErneto location,
on 1951 and earlier models this is locateal at rear of cylinder on Matchless a.nd at fro[t oa
A.r.S. On 1952 modets of both makes magneto is located at front of cylind.er.
Piston Rings-Replace.if joint gap in cylinder at unworn end exceeds

.040". When fitting new rings, check gap in lower end of cylinder square
up with piston. File joints to provide.015" gap (350 c.c.) and.018" (500
c.c.). Scrape all carbon from the bottom of all rirlg grooves.
Split Skirt Pistons-These should be installed with the skirt split
facing front.
Piston Pin Bush-Replace if pin clearance in bushing exceeds .003".
Bushing should be honed out after installing to provide .001" pin clearance.
Valves-Replace if stems are worn .004" or more, or if heads reface
to sharp edge. Note that inlet valve has larger head, Do not interchange
inlet and exhaust valves. Thoroughly remove all carbon deposit from
exhaust valve stem.
Valvo Guides-Replace if clearance on stems of valves to be used
exceeds .008". If available, test guides for wear with a 21"" .002" oversize
stem pilot from valve seat g'rinder set. Replace if there is noticeable
clearance on this pilot. Drive old guides out frorn inside to outside of
head; drive in new guides from outside of head. Note that guide oii holes
are in line with cylinder head feed holes. fnlet valve guides should project
1/2" from cylinder head; exhaust valve guides 7s".
Replacing Valvo Guides-Alloy Head-To avoid damage to the guide
hole in the cylinder head, first remove all carbon deposit from the valve
guide projecting into port with emery cloth. It is an advantage to heat
cylinder head to boiling water temperature, drive out valve Suides from
inside to outside of head. If any difficulty is experienced in driving exhaust
guide out from inside to outside, drive out other way from top to in,cide
of head. Heat cylinder head likewise for installing new guides.
Valvo Springs-On coil spring models, new inner spring length is
7aTta" ar.d outer spring is 214e". Replace if shortened %" or more. Note
that a distance sleeve is fitted under the exhaust va.lve spring'cup but not
under the inlet.
Valve Collets-Note there are two grooves on valve stem end and 'Lhe
split collets must be correctly fitted so that both ridges in collets engage
with stem end grooves.
Valve Stem End Caps-These are used on 1948 and earlier modeis.
Replace if noticeably worn and make sure these have been fitted before
installing rocker box.
Gaskets-It is advisable to use a complete set of nelv gaskets. Note
that cylinder base gasket is correctly fitted so that cylinder base oil feed
cutaway is on right side.
Inlet Valve Guiile Oil Needle Valve Adjustrnent-Standard setting is
a/z tttrn open from fully screwed in position.
Valvo Tappet Adjustment-Adjustment is located at top end of pushrod
accessible when the rocker box right side cover is removed. Adjust so that
rods are free to spin. There should be no perceptible shake i,n the in-let
(rear) pushrod, and barely perceptible shake in the exhaust (front)
pushrod.
CRANI{CASE SEBVICnNG-350 c.c. - 500 c.c. SINGLES

Beforo Attempting to Separate Crankcases-Note-The oil pump
plunger must be withdrawn via the rear end of plunger housing before it is
attempted to remove flpvheel assembly from right crankcase. Any attempt
MOTOR SERVICING 289
to remove flyi;vheel assembly frorn right crankcase with oil pump plunger
in position, ca"n damage oil pump plunger teeth and right flywheel shaft.
Right Side Cra,nkshaft Timing Pinion Nut-Note this is a lefthand
thread. Pinion is a taper fit on shaft and if suitable puller is not available,
can be removed, after withdrawing oil pump plunger, by supporting right
crankcase with left half removed and striking shaft end a sharp blow with
hammer and drift.
Separating Fl'1'wheels-Crankpin is a straight press fit in each flyr,vheel.
The best method of separating is to undo one crankpin nut, and support
flywheel assembly on two "I" or "IJ" section steel beams as illustrated
in Section 1, Chapter 16. Drive out the erankpin from the uppermost fly-
wheel with a hammer and drift. X'lprheel with crankpin can then be
clamped in vice, remaining nut removed and crankpin drifted out likewise.
Con-Rod Big-Enrl-Three rows of lattTt/n" bearing rollers (total 30)
are used in a, retainer on crankpin. Outside race is a press fit in con-rod.
A steel thrust washer is fitted qgainst each flyurheel. Rollers are supplied
in either standard size or .001" oversize diameter, When there is only
slight wear on crankpin and in the big-end race, quite satisfactory results
can often be obtained with oversize rollers by polishing crankpin with
emery cloth and having big-end race honed out to provide the required
.001" big-end clearance. Note that when a complete new big-end assembly is.
fitted it is sometimes neeessary to hone out con-rod big-end raee after
installing if bearing is not completely free.
Fitting Crarrkpin to Fl;rwheel-Note-A mark should be made on the
right end of the crankpin corresponding with the oil feed opening, and
when crankpin is fitted into right flywheel, it should be noted that this
mark points to the flywheel mainshaft centre, to ensure that oil hole in
pin registers with oil hole in flywheel. The bearing area on the crankpin
is formed by a steel sleeve that is a light press fit onto the crankpin. In
order that this is not pushed off centre, tighten up the right crankpin nut
only until end of crankpin is flush with nut.
Smear crankpin bearirlg surface with thick g?ease, fit roller retainer,
install rollers and slip on con-rod. Note that crahkpin end is clean and dry,
likewise hole in left flywheel before fitting. Press on flywheel, using old
bushing or tube spaeer over erankpin end in vise. Tighten up crankpin
nut and adjust alignment, See Section 1, Chapter 16. Note-If crankpin
end should project noticeably through one nut and the other nut is not
fully on, slacken the nut that is furthest on and tighten the nut least on
so that crankpin nuts thread on approximately an equal amount.
Right Flywheel Shaft Bearing-On the 1946 and earlier motors, a
small caged roller bearing running'directly on the fl5rwheel shaft was used
next to the flywheel, and at the outer end of shaft a bronze bush cut away
from the oil pump drive worm. See I11. 112. On 1947 and later models, a
longer bronze bush is used, replacing the short bush and roller bearing. The
original 1946 type roller bearing is no long'er being produced, and when
replacements are necessary on this model, a special shouldered double
diameter bronze bush that the manufacturers are now supplying, should
be fitted. This replaces the short bronze bush and also fits into the steel
race in crankcase, replaci4g the original roller bearing.
As a result of the rather small area of the right crankcase bearing,
excessive clearance often develops at as low as 10,000 miles. Replacement
is advisable whenever clearance exceeds .004".
Installing Right Crankcase Bush-Crankcase should be heated for
removal and installing, and bushing fitted so that eutaway for oil pump
i
plunger is correctly located at bottom of hole. Hone bushing after installing

to provide .001" shaft clearance.
Right Flywheel Shaft Replacement-The right flylvheel shaft shoutd
always be checked with a micrometer and replaced if worn below .871".
Standard diameter is .873".
Fl','wheel Entlplay-Flylyheel endplay with the crankcase and bearings
assembled should be checked. Between .005-.020" is satisfactory. Clearance
is adjusted by "drifting" the right crankcase bushing slightly in or out.
OiI Pump Plunger-The plunger teeth should be examined carefully
when dismantled. It is good policy to replace if there is noticeable wear.
Remove plunger via rear pump end cover after removing' guide screw.
Left tr'I5rwheel Shaft Bearings-Two ball bearings are used. Replace-
ment is not normally necessary until there is perceptible up and down play
rvhen engine sprocket is lifted. Note that spacing washer is refitted between
bearings when replacing. Warm crankcase for removal and refitting.
Oil Pump Plunger anil Right Fly'r.vheel Sha,ft Replacements-It should
be noted that the 1946 parts are different from those used on 1947 and
later models. A "double start" worm to increase oil pump plunger speed,
was introduced on the 1947 machines. The iater type parts can be fitted
if both flywheel shaft and pump plunger are replaced.
rtl. 113
LOCATING RIGIII FLYVYIIEEL

SHAFT
The right (tlming side) flywheel shaft
is not keyed to flywheel ed it is in-
advisable to remove unless reptacement
is necessary. This
jig used to ensureillustratioD shows a
correct fitttng of
shaft to give correct valve timing and
regist9r of oil passage to flrryheet. If
Jig is not avallable fit shaft so tlxat
timtng ptnion mark is direcuy in line
with centre of crankpin hole and tighten
flywheel nut iD thls poslttoD"
fll. 114
trIATCIIT-FSS AND A.J.S. SINGI,E CAM GEAR TI}IING I{ARKS
rnstall ca{n_ gears -s_o that marks line up as shown, to check ,nlet cm timing note that timilg
pinion mark should register with inlet cam mark as shown on !eft, to caeck exhaust cam
revolve motor ahead slighuy and note that timing pinion mark registers with exhaust cam
mark as shown on the right.
i
I
, MOTOR, SERVICING 29L
(b) 500 c.c. O.H.V. Twin Models

TOP OVERIIAUI, NOTES
Oismantling-Disma,ntling procedure is quite straightforward. Remove
gas tank, rocker box covers, spark plugs, carburetor, exhaust pipes, inlet
manifold, followed by cylinder heads. If cyiinder bloeks are to be removed,
mark pushrods to ensure refitting in their original positions. Remove one
cylinder barrel at a time.
TWIN MOTOB PABTS EXAMINATION AND REPLACEMENTS

Piston B,ings-Replace if gap in cylinder exceeds .040" when placed
squarely in lower unworn end of cylinder.
Pistons-Replace if skirt cleara.nce is .003" in excess of standard
clearance. See page 285, "Clearances and Settings,"
Beboring-If wear exceeds .008" at top end of ring travel, reboring
and fitting oversize pistons is recornmended.
Piston Pin Bushings-Replace if clearance is .003" or greater.
Valves-Remove all carbon and combustion deposits from stems and
inside of exhaust guides.
Valvo Guides-Replace if wear exceeds ,002"-,003". Test with a %0,,
.002" oversize valve seat grinder pilot. Valve guides are located with circlip.
When removing old valve guides, first clean off carbon deposit frorn exposed
end of valve guide to avoid damage to hole in cylinder head, Heat head
to boiling water temperature, for removing and refitting guides. Note that
guide cirelips are fitted to new guides.
iralve Springs-Repiace if %2" shorter than new springs. Standard
new spring lengths: Outet-l/a", Inner Lae,Az".
pLAtN WASHER SELF LOCKING NUT
HEAO OF ECCENTRIC
ROCKER SPIN9LE
rcLT CLAMPINC
ROCKER SPINDLE
REOUCED PAR'
OF ROCKER
SPINDLE HEAO
trI. 116
YALIIE TAPPET AI}JUSTMENT-TIYIN I}IODEI.S

Adjustmert of tappet clearances on the 50O c.c. O.II.V. Matchless and A.J.S. twin modets !s
effected by rotating tho eccentrically mounted rocker shafts. Set piston on top of ebmpresston
stroke ln cylinder on whlch valves are to be adjusted. slacken the locking nut tor cimpinE
bolt; % turn is sufficient, Rotate rocker shaft until .006" clearance is preini retwieln rocker
&nd valve end. Retighten clmping bolt locknut. After both valves on ir"e cviinaer trive
adjusted, revolve motor one rev-olution to bring other piston on top of compiission siiote been
ana
adjust botlr valves on other cylinder in a similar mmner. Adjusiment shiuta b/e maoe wrtrr
Botor cold-
I
.)o.) MATCHLESS AND A.J.S. SERVICING
ort ftto T0
ROCXIR
STASING ANO
BA!L ENO
FTD THROUGH
IHi CYIINOT,R
HtAo
^x0 iHT
fFOM
FOCKIR BOX
GALLERY
F,CaKti B{
0 L tt!.o
8]C L.,,) A\C

CIN'IRi BTAR.N'
0rt ttt0 PAssAC.
suPPtLto rrT)t c -
rROB PASSAGTS
0Fr[rtJ \
TRAHt|lrSSr0r SrX
CA,ANKCAST
IL 116
IIATCHLESS-A.J.S, 500 c.c. O.H,V. TMN 1IOTOR
This part-section illustration shows details of crankcase construction. Flywheel and crankshaft
assembly is a one-piece casting, anal is supported on roller bearings at both ends. Shell type
con-rod big-end bearings are used. An unusual feature is the centre srankshaft bearing. This
is also of the shell type and fitted to a plate located between the two crankcase halves.
MOTOR SERVICING 293
TOP OVEEIIAIIL E,EASSEMBLY

After top overhaul bench work has been completed and it has been
ascertained that the con-rod big-ends and mainshaft bearings are in
satisfactory condition, crankease should be flushed out and reassembly
proceeded with in the reverse order to dismaniling. A new gasket set
should be used. Note-That pushrods are refitted in their originaf positions.
After refitting cylinder head, tighten cylinder head nuts finger tGht, then
refit inlet manifold with new gaskets and tighten the four maniiold nuts
slightly' Next, tighten down fully the four cylinder head nuts for each
head, working in a diagonal pattern and worki4g from one head to the
other. After head is fully tightened, finally tighten the inlet manifold nuts
and install carburetor.
fappet Clearanaes-Set to .006,, inlet and exhaust. See llt. 11b,
I
I
I
ru, 11?
500 c.c. TVIIIN III{ING GEAI IIAR,rS

Talis iUustration shows correct. positiming of timing gear marks for valre timing, The oil
pressure lelease valve is also shown. This provides foirelease of excessive oiipi""-"',ra" *ne"
startins up from cold. rt requires no attention and should oniy re-crmneJwii"i-6iieii.auring.
294 MATCHLESS AND A.J.S. SERVICIhIG
CRANKCASE SEBVICING-5O0 c.c. TWIN

Crankcase servicing should not normaliy be necessary until over
20,000-30,000 miles have been eovered, and excessive con-rod big-end
clearance has developed.
Camsha,ft Gea,r Nuts-Note-These have left hand threads. X'actory
puller No. 015374 should be used for removing these gears, if avaiiable.
If this or a suitable alternative puller is not available, a puller can easily
be made up comprising a centre screw threaded through a secLion of fu"
or 3/a" steel, fitted with two bolts spaced to match the holes in camshaft
gears. Note-These hoies are threaded, and when boits are threaded into
g'ears and centre is screw-tightened, gears can be withdrawn.
Llagneto Gear Rermovatr-X'actory puller No. 075273 should be used if
available. If not, a puller can be made with thread to match thread on
magneto gear hub, and with centre screw. An alternative method is to
remove magneto gear nut and flange stud nuts, and strike end of armature
shaft a sharp blow with hammer and drift. This wiil usually free gear
from taper.
ft is not necessary to remove the crankshaft gear or the generator
gear as these are sufficiently small in diameter to enable removal of
crankshaft assembly and dynamo from right crankcase while sti1l irl
position.
Cam Follorvgls-l ,arsn crankcases are separated, condition of cam
followers should be carefully examined, and if there is noticeable wear on
the cam bearing surfaces, these parts shoutd be replaced. At the same
time, condition of cams should also be inspected.
Crankshaft Main Bearings-It is very seldom that these large diameter
roller bearing's require replacement, and unless there was noticeable straight
up and down play in crankshaft assembly before dismantling, they will
likely be good for further service. Replacement should, however, be made
if worn to give in excess of .003,,-.004,, up and down elearance.
Section 4
IGNITION TIMING
350 c.c.-5fi) c.c. Singles-Timing hocedure
1. Clean and set magneto points .012" gap fully open and set igaitiou
control advaneed.
2. Adjust maglreto chain to Ya" slack midway betweer sprockets at
tightest point.
3. X'ree magneto sprocket from taper; clean sprocket and shaft tapers;
have sproeket meshed in chain a.nd resting on taper.
4. Revolve motor slowly in running direction until piston is }[,, before
top of stroke (both valves closed).
5. Revolve ma€xeto armature slowly in nrnning direction (cloelnrlse
on breaker end arrd anti-clockwise on drive end) until points just conrmence
to separate.
F'ORKS, F'RAMES AND WHEIELS 299
rll. 119
1948.1950 MAACEI,ESS.A.J.S. TELEDRAULIC FOR(S
Identillcatton ol nmbereal part8 ln luutilatlon 119. NotFParts m only listeil where
aufferlng from tho 1946-1947 tI,IF
18. Front Fork Buffer Spring 23. Bottom DmIEr Core
19. Shock Absrber Shuttle Lo@ting Sleevo 31, Fork f4g DraiD Screws
20. Shock Absorber Shuttle
The general construction is similar to the earlier models, except the damper tube rod anal
damper tube are not used.
Bear Spring f,'ra,rre

In normal use, no servicing to the rear spring frame should be necessary,
at least until eomplete overhaul of machine is being undertaken. Quantity
of oil supply for the two types of plunger legs in use is specified in Section 1
oj this chapter, The fork hinge bearing is originally supplied with LL/z
fluid ounces of heavy gear oil, and will seldom require any additional
lubricant. oil can be added via the small screw hole in the righthand end
cap of the hinge bearing.
Vlrheels and Brakes

Wheel Bearing Adjustment-Tapered roller type wheel beari4gs are
used. These are fitted to hub with the small end of tapers towards the
outside of hub, which is opposite to common practice. Adjustment is made
on the outer raee as follows:
Rear Wheel-Remove li'heel and brake plate; slacken the hub ring nut
11{ turn the adjusting
fully
ring.clockwise to move the outer race in. Tignten
with moderate pressure, then back out at full a/a tur:n and retithten
the lock ring nut.
Front wheel-Note this adjustment is on right side opposite to rear.
slacken lock ring nut and tighten adjusting conL ring fuliy. slacken off
at full 7/+ turn, and retighten lock nut. Note-wheel-bearing adjustment
should be made when %2" or more side plate at rim develops,- Av6id over-
tightening. Tapered roller bearings require slight running- clearance, and
just a trace of shake at wheel rim is normal.
Front wheel Removal and Refitting-To remove front wheel, disconnect
front brake cable, break anchor bolt and slacken the nut on left end of
front wheel axle. Remove the four nuts securiqg fork end caps. Mark the
caps before removing and note when refitting, trrey a"" assuribled in their
orig'inal positions.
IIr. 12lD fn addition to the normal rear brake rod and froDt
BIiAXE SEOE ADJUSTMEMI brake cable adjusters, a shoe adjustment is prorided.
1948-1952 MODDLS After the controt adjustment is exhausted, the braiie
plate should be removed and shim wtrhers (No,2)
fitted under the thrust pin (No.1), in ends of brake
shoes, against which the operating €m operates. Eighi
shim washers are provided in the tool kit. Fit eirher
one or two washers as may be necessary, Under each
brake shoe thrust pin, and when reassembling, centralize
the brahe shoes by applying the brake fully with the
brake plate axle lut stighily slackened, ltrrhile the brake
is heid on fully, retighten the brake plate axle nut.
Rrake Shoe A4iustments_lg4? and Eailier }fodelF

A solid collar is fitted to the end of each brake sh@.
Brake shoe adjustment is obtained by removing collars
and turning them so that shoe ends engage in shalloEer
slots, bringing the sh@ lining closer to the drum. Note
tl'at each shoe end is engaged in slots of the same
depth. After effecting this adjustment sh@s should be
centralized as described above.
tr.ORKS, I'RAMES AND WHEELS 297
Steering Head Be.aring Adjustment-slacken steering stem top nut

I and locknuts, Nos. 3 and 4 in illustration 118. AIso fork leg lower stem lug
pinch bolts No. 41 and No. 42 in illustration 118. Tighten down steering
stem top lug lower nut with a moderate amount of pressure, Back off %o
turn and retighten top locknut. Retighten fork leg lower lug pinch bolts.
Dismantling and Reassernbling-Reference should be made to illustra-
tions 118 and 119 which illustrate the constructional details. If difficulty is
experienced in removal of the lower legs after unscrewing lower leg upper
extension (48) in illustration 118 and 14 and 33 in illustration 119, it is
usually due to the oil retainers pressed into the top end of the lower legs
being too tight a fit. Application of heat to the lower fork legs will usually
provide sufficient expansion to release oil retainers and permit easy with-
drawal of lower legs.
Note that cornplete fork leg assembly can be removed from fork stem
top and Iower lugs by slackening lower lug pinch bolt, wedging' screw-
driver in lower Iug split to release lug from gripping tube, slackening top
leg cap bolt a few turns and tap to free inner tube from top lug, then leg
assembly except top and bottom cover tubes can be withdrawn from below.
Top and bottom cover tubes are secured with the three screws and retaining:
plates shown. Screws can be unscrewed with a long screwdriver.
Accident Damago to Forks-If main tubes are bent more than t/8t, off
centre, it is reeommended that, they be replaced. fn the event of accident,
it is most important that the lower legs should be examined very carefully
for sigxs of fracture. These aluminum alloy lower legs quite often suffer
fracture as a result of accident damage and in such cases should definitely
be replaced.
1946-1947 MATCIILESS-A.J.S. FORT PABTS, AS IrTI}IBEBED IN rI T,USTRATION 118
1. Iop lcg CaP B01t 23. Steel Bush at Bottom of l}Ieitr Iuer Tube
2. Top Fork mil Haildlebor Lug 2i1. Bottom Entl of llain IrEer Tube
3. Head B€ring Adiuting Nut 25. I)uper Tube
4. Locknut 26. Fib.e Wffiher for DmIrer Tube Seeuring
5. Top Cover Tube Cap Bolt
6. Ahreadeil Locating Pl&te for Cover TEbe 2?, Damlrcr Tube Securhg Bolt
7. Top CoYd Tubo 28. fick Btng fd Imer Tube Bottom Stel
8. I€ather W&sher at Top ffial Bottom of Bush
Fork Spring 29.-36, AxIe CaIE, Stuals md Nuts
9. Main Inner Tube 3?. Lower Fork frg
t0. Top Ircs C&p Bolt 38. SprinA ir Position
11. Looknut for Top of Dmper Rod 39. Bottom Coyer Tubes
f2. St@t Wesher for No. 10 anal No. 1 40. Steering Stem ud fower Crom Lug
13. Demper Rod 4L.-42, I*g Pinch Bolts
14. Main SpriEg 43. Fork Stem
15. DmIrcr md Sleve 44. Top Cover Tube
16. Dmper Tubo Retalning Cllp 45. Coyer Tubo Cap
17. Stop in for Dmper Tube Valve 46. Screws S€curins Cover R€teining plates
18. DamIEr Tube Va,Ive 47. Bottom Ret&lnirg Plate
19. DmIDr Tube Valvo S@t 48. Lower Ieg Extension. Noto this is threadeit
20. DmIrcr Tube Va,lyc Iekrut into lower leg
21. Paper Gffiket for Oil Seel 49. OiI Seal
22. Shoulder€il Bakelite BuBh 51.-52.-63. Brrke Anchorbolt Nut and Washer
54. tntt Lowtr Fork Leg
298 MATCHLESS AND A.J,S. SERVICING
--@
IlL 118
194? AND EARLIEB MATCHI,ESS-A.J.S. TELEDRAULIC FORI(S
Refer to Page 297 for ldentification of numbered parts.

IGNI?ION TIMING
6. F ix the drive sprocket onto the magneto armature in this position

by giving a sharp rap with hammer, using an old piston pin or box \rrench
as spacer over shaft end.
7. Securely tighten magneto sprocket nut by rapping wrench with
hammer; also check tightness of the inlet cam spindle driving sprocket
nut; recheck timing to make sure it has not slipped during nut tightening.
Magnoto Chain Adjmstment Magneto base platform hinges To
-
adjust, slacken nuts that secure magneto platform; pry up under the- end
of magneto platform with the slotted holes to give the required L/4tt free
slack midway between sprockets at tightest point, and retighten nuts.
500 c.c. Twin-Magneto Timing Frocedure

1. Mount magneto on crankcase.
2. Clean and set breaker points to .072" gap fully open; advance
spark lever.
3, Wipe clean the taper on armature shaft, and taper hole and magneto
gear.
4, Remove spark plugs if cylinder head is on, turn motor until pistons
are s/e"
before top of stroke.
5. Place g'ear on shaft and tighten nut lightly, but riot sufficient to
grip gear to shaft taper.
6. Turn magneto armature via the contact breaker end in its running
direction (clockwise at breaker end) until points just commence to separate,
7. Using a tube spacer or box wrench that fits over gear nut, "fix"
g:ear hub to shaft taper with a light rap with hammer.
8. Tighten up nut, I'or final tightening, give wrench a few light taps
with hammer.
9. Revolve motor and check that breaker points just commence to
separate in the correet position.
10. High Tension Wires-As firing intervals are exactly evenly spaced,
it does not matter on whieh cam or which piston timing is done, It is,
of course, necessary to fit the high tension wires correctly to the spark
plugs. A simple method is to just eonnect up the wires and if motor does
not start, to switch them. To be positively sure that the wires are connected
correctly, remove one high tension pickup, revolve motor until breaker
points just commence to separate, with the brass contact of collector ring
facing this pickup opening. The wire from this pickup should be connected
to the cylinder that has both valves closed. On the original assembly the
rear magneto pickup is connected to the left side spark plug.
Section 5
GEAR,BOXES, CLU1ICHES AND CIIAINS

Note-Burman gearboxes and elutches have been used on Matchless
and A.J.S. machines for many years, For complete servicing information
on these units, refer to Sections 9 and 10 of Chapter 16.
296 MATCHLESS AND A.J.S. SE]RVICING
Geartrox Lubrica,tion-Refer to Section 1 of this chapter.

Clutch Control Adjustment-See page 742 for details of clutch control
adjustment on 1951 and earlier models. On 1952 models, note that a
minimum of a/8tt cable slack should be maintained. Minor adjustment can
be effected by the outer cable adjuster. The main adjustment is provided
in the centre of clutch outer pressure plate accessible by removal of the
cap on front chain case, secured by three screws. To increase slack in
control, slacken locknut and turn screw out; to reduce slack, turn screw in.
Retighten locknut after adjusting, making sure that 7/Bt' free cable slack
is present.
Front Drivo Chain Adjustment-Slacken gearbox bottom pivot bolt
and top clamping bolt. Slacken the adjusting screw front nut and tighten
rear nut to take up slack in chain or oppositely to slacken chain. Allow
3/8" ftee slack midway between sprockets at tightest point. Retighten top
and bottom nuts and adjuster locknuts securely.
Rear Chain Adjustrnent-slacken wheel axle nuts and turn in set
screws equally on both sides to give s1o" free slack midway betrveen
sprockets at tightest point. Retighten spindle nuts and adjusting screrv
Iocknuts securely.
Rear Chain Atljustment-Spring Fra,me Modbls-A "cam" adjustment
is used in place of set screws on these models. tr'irst slacken nut to right
of speedometer gearbox; next slacken outside nut on left side end of rear
axle. Fit wrench to the hexagon on the chain side cam; place foot against
back of rear tire to maintain cams in contact with frame stops, and rotate
cam to give required 1" free up and down slack (machine on centre stand).
Tighten the left axle end outside nut, the nut to the right of the speed-
ometer ,gearbox, noting that the speedometer gearbox is in a position that
does not impose strain on the speedometer cable.
Generator Chain AtXjustment-Slacken generator band clamp bolt and
rotate generator as required to give la" free chain slack. Tool kit
wt'ench No. RTK1 can be used on the flats on left end of generator to
rotate generator. Armature shaft is eccentrically mounted in body, u'hich
gives change in sprocket centre spacing as entire generator is tur.ned.
Magneto Chain AcljustrnenL-See Section 4, "Magneto Timing," page
295.
Magneto Chain Lubrication-On models fitted with the grease nipple
to magneto chain cover, provide g'rease gun lubrication at 1000-mi1e
intervals, When inspecting and adjusting chain at 5000-mile interr-als.
repack chaincase aba'ut a/z full of medium ,grease.
Section 6
FORKS, T'RAMES AND WIIEET-S

Matchless anal A.J.S. Teleilraulic Forks
Lubrication-This is fully dealt with in Section 1 of this chapter.
Servicing Requirements-IInder normal operating conditions, the oniy
servicing required will be occasional adjustment of steering head bearing
and the checking of oil supply and seasonal change of g:rade if extremes
of operating: temperatures are encountered.
301
)
CHAPTER NINE
I
I
I
]YORTO]\ SERVICING
Note-This chapter covers servicing of Norton O.H.V. and S.V. Single
Twin, X'or information on operating, refer
models, also the 500 e.c. O.H.V.
to Chapter Three, and for general maintenance information, Chapter tr'our.
Reference should be made to Chapter Sixteen for serrricing i'nformation
on components such as carburetors, magnetos, generators, and electrical
systems.
Section 1
LUBRICATIOI{
Grades of Motor Oil-X'or recommended oil grades for varying tem-
peratures, refer to lubrication section of Chapter I'our, "Maintenance,"
page 126.
Motor Oil Changing-The motor oil tank should be drained and refilled
with fresh oil of the correct ,grade at 1000-mile intervals, when operating
under favorable and comparatively dust-free conditions at above freezing
temperatures. IJnder dusty operating conditions, especially where car-
buretor aircleaner is not fitted, oil should be changed at 500-mile intervals.
In operating temperatures below freezing, oil should be changed at
500-mile intervals or oftener, if there is evidence of water accumulating
in oil. Oil dilution is most prevalent when machines are used on short
runs in cold weather. IInder some conditions, oil changing intervals of
200 miles may be found advisable to maintain the lubrication system in
an efficient state.
Oil Tank Filters-Singles and Twins-Ill. 121 shows the gauze screen
type filter fitted at the oil tank feed outlet on the Single models. On the
Twin models, fiiter is similarly located and can easily be removed for
cleaning by disconnecting feed line and unscrerving filter unit from tank.
Washing filter in gasoline or solvent is recommended whenever oil is
changed, especially on machines operated lvithout an aircleaner.
Ilt. 121
NORTO\ OIL T.{I:K I'EED LII!:E

FILTER,
The screen type filter illustrated should

be removed after draining oii tank for
cleanin8: and fiushing out of tank, F,ilter
is located at bottom of oil tank at the
top end of ihe feed tine. On Tlvin models
filter screen is similarly located to the
Single type iltustrated above
302 NORTON SERVICING
Oil Pump-A dual gear-type pump is used on both the Single and
Twin motors worm driven off right flywheel shaft. The narrow set of
g'ears comprise the feed pump. On Single models, oil is drawn from tank
and forced to the rear watl of cylinder, to the con-rod big-end bearing via
the right flpuheel mainshaft and to the pressure control valve Iocated in
the timing cover.
On the Twin models, oi1 is forced through passag'eways in timing
cover to the right end of crankshaft, through to con-rod big-ends. Excess
oil pressure is released through timing g:ear case via pressure release valve
located at rear of timing g'ear cover.
The wide set of gears form the return pump and draw oil as it
accumulates in the bottom of crankcase and pump back to tank. Oil feed
to the rockers in both the Single and Twin models is taken off the oil
return line.
Cra,nkcase Drain Plug-No crankcase return oil filter is used on either
the Si4gle or Twin models, but a drain plug is fitted, and it is recommended
that this be removed and the small amount of oil present in the bottom
of crankcase drained out whenever motor or tank is drained. S1udge is
best removed if drained when hot.
Oil Tank Level-Oil level should be maintained as close to V+ f:tll
or about 2" down from filler opening, as possible. A higher level will result
in oil being forced out the tank pressure release pipe when machine is
driven hard.
When adding oil, this should be done immediately after operation as
if machine has been standing for some length of time, a lower oil tank
level may result from oil having worked past the pump into the crankcase.
This oil will be returned to the tank immediately after starting up, due to
the return pump being of much larger capacity than the feed. If oil is
being added after machine has been idle for some time, do not fill up to
the normal level until after the motor has run a few minutes.
Gearbox Lubrication
The same grades of oil as recommended for the motor are correct for
gearbox. See page 126. Oil level should be checked every 1000 miles. and
drained and refilled every 5000 miles, or seasonally where sufficient change
in temperature is experienced to require change of oil grade,
Front Chaincaso OiI-Oil level should be checked every 1000 miles
and topped up w.ith S.A.E}. No. 10 grade to level of the plug located below
and to the rear of left.footrest.
Plunger Fork Lubrication
Normally, it will only be necessary to change fork oil seasonally or
at 5000-mile interwals, and it should not be necessary to add any oil during
this interval unless there has been evidence of oil leakage. tr-'or average
temperatures, S.A.E. No. 20 oil should be used. For operation at below
freezing temperatures, S.A.E, No. 10. To change fork oii, remove drain
plugs from bottom of each leg and cap nuts at top of each leg. Work
fork up and down a few times, replace drain plugs, and pour in 7+ pint
of the correct grade oil to each leg. Replace top leg cap nuts and tighten
securely.
Grease Gun Lubrication-Grease gun lubrication should be provided
to grease nipples at 1000-mile intervals. Avoid over-Iubrication of wheel
hub and brake camshaft grease nipples. On the 16H, Military model,
g'rease nippies are provided for valve guide lubrication, and these should
be lubrieated at 200-mile intervals.
Oil can lubrication should be provided to control cable ends, and to
foot gearchange control linkage pivots, on the early type gearboxes.
Section 2
OT.I]TARANCES AND SEITINGS
J'16II" 18 & E.S.2 49\ c.c.

NORTON
Clearances anat Settings 490 c.c 490 O.H.V. o.H.v-
S.V. Models Models Twin
Piston Clearances-Pistons
finished, cam-ground and tapered
(.010"-.015" eam)
Solitl Skirt Type
Bottom of skirt.. .003Y2" .004" .0081/2,,
.006" .O067/2" .0051/2"
Lower ring 1ands............ .015" .015" .012"
zna a"a t6p ri"t ra"da::.::::.::....:.:.:...:. .018" .018', .015"
Eepotte "S.VY." Slotte(l Skirt

Pistons-.012" cam
.002"
.002"
R,ing lands... .015"
Piston ring joint gap................. .015-.018" .015-.018" .072-.014"
Fiston p-in. in piston (light hand
.000" .000" .000,,
Piston pin in rod (reamed)................. .00r/2" .007/2" .00Y+"
Fiston pin in rod (honed)......... .001" .001" 'oo7/2"
Standard cylinder bore, inches......... 3.110" 3.110" 2.598"
Stand cylinder bore, nrm...................... 79 mm. 79 mm, 66 mm.
Inlet valve tappet (motor cold)........... .004" .001" .002"

Exhaust valve tappets (motor cold)... .006" .002" .005"
fnlet valve stem in guide......................
guide....................... .003" .o03lk,, .002"
Exhaust valve stem in guide................ .004" .005" .004"
Valve seat angle.............. 45 deg. 45 deg. 45 deg.
Ignition advance (on piston)... 1Aa" \b" utt

Breaker point gap..... .012" .072" .072"
Spark plug point gap...... .015" .075" .015'
Con-rod big-end clearance...... .001/z-.007" .004/z-.007" .001"
Crankshaft end clearence in
erankcase..... .005 -.015" .005 -.015" .005-.009"
Valve Timing
Inlet opens before T.D.C eAz" LAe" tbil
Exhaust closes after T.D.C.................. e,az,,
91a" 7/b"
Carburetor Settings
Carburetor bore si2e....... 7" L1Aa" L"
Main jet size with aiI 150 150 150
Main jet size without 160 160 770
Throttle valve numbe .1065 .1065 .707
304 NORTON SEIR,VICING
Specia,l Tappet Setting Procedure-On the 490 c.c. S.V. and O.H.V.
motors with the letter "Q" after motor number, a very gradual lift cam
is used. The tappets should be adjusted as follows: Set inlet clearance
with motor turned so exhaust valve is just lifting, set exha.ust tappet
when inlet valve has just closed. O.H.V, settings are as listed al:rove.
fnlet pushrods should be just free to spin withoui perceptible shake and
barely perceptible shake should be ailowed in the exhaust pushrods. On
the S.V. motors with this tlpe of cam, clearances are increased to .010,,
for both inlet and exhaust.
Special Clearances-Overhead Camshaft Motors-Reference shouid
be made to the manufacturer's data for special clearances on the O.H.C.
motors. Clearances for pistons, vatve tappets, also valve timing:, ignition
timilg, and carburetor settings vary, depending: on model and whether
cast iron alloy cylinder head and barrel are fitted.
Section 3
MOTOR SERVICING
(a) O.H.V. and S.V. Single Motors
TOP MOTOR, OVERHAI]L
Dismantling S.V. Models-Dismantling is quite straightforward. Remove
spark plug', carburetor, cylinder head, exhaust pipe and muffler, follou.ed
by cylinder block. ff piston is obviously in good condition, it need not be
removed from con-rod. After ascertaining con-rod big-end is in satisfactory
condition and attention given to rings, crankcase cylinder base surface
should be eleaned off, crankease flushed out and covered over, awaiting
completion of the top overhaul bench work.
Dismantling O.H.V. Motors-tr-irst remove gas tank, followed by
carburetor, exhaust pipe and muffler assembly. Disconnect rocker oil
feed pipe; remove spark plug and rotate motor until piston is at top of
compression stroke. Slacken nine rocker box securing bolts; remove a1I
except the three centre rear bolts which cannot be lifted out until rocker
box is removed. I,ift the rocker box away from cylinder head, and cover
tubes; next, remove pushrods and cover tubes. Mark pushrods so they
can be refitted in their original positions. cylinder head bolts and cylinder
head can now be removed, followed by cylinder block.
Removal of piston from rod is not essential, although doing so facili-
tates cleaning carbon from ring grooves. If piston is being left on rod,
scrape carbon from grooves, remove carbon from piston top and flush
out crankcase. Con-rod big-end should be checked by lifting straight up
and down on con-rod. There should be no more than barely perceptible
con-rod big-end clearance present. If in excess of .004,, or .005,, big-end
clearance, complete dismantling and big-end beari4g replacement should
be undertaken.
MOTOB PARTS &XAMINATION A\TD REPLI\CEMENT

R,DQUIR,EMEIITS
When top overhaul dismantling is completed, parts replacement
requirements for both top and Iower ends of motor can usually be deter-
mined by careful examination. After parts have been cleaned up, a careful
check should be made comparing clearances with the standard elearances
Iisted in the preceding section.
MOTOR SERVICING 305
Piston Bings-Remove top ring from piston, place in lower end of

cylinder bore, square up and check for gap. If this is in excess of .035"
ring replacement is advisable. When replacing rings, be sure to remove
all traces of carbon from the bottom of the piston grooves, and before
fitting new rings, file joints as necessary to provide required joint gap
of .015"-.018" when placed in the lower unworn end of the cylinder.
Check to see that rings go down fully into grooves, and do not
project above ring lands. Carbon residue in piston grooves can cause
breakage of new rings. Attention is drawn to the fact that some American
rings have greater radial thickness than standard British rings, and cannot
be fitted without deepening the grooves in the piston. Rings of the correct
radial thickness should be obtained where possible to avoid this operation.
Piston-Piston should be cheeked with a micrometer, if available. If
not, it can be checked reasonably accurately with a feeler gauge, when
piston is removed from con-rod. Check skirt clearance on thrust face in
lower end of cylinder, both at top and bottom of skirt. Replacement of
piston is recommended when skirt clearanee on thrust face is.002"-.0t3"
in excess of standard clearances listed. Ring g:rooves should be examined
for ring side clearance. Most wear occurs in the top g:roove, and piston
replacement is recommended when .007" ot more side clearance is present.
Excessive top ring groove wear commonly occurs at mileages as low as
5000, where machines are operated in a dusty area without aircleaner.
Piston Replacement-If piston is being replaced, due to worn piston
skirt or ri4g groove condition, cylinder bore should, of, course, be measured
to determine the amount of cylinder wear. If wear exeeeds .004'r at top
end of cylinder, reboring'or honing cylinder and fitting oversize piston is
recommended to obtain full benefit from new piston.
Cylintler Reboring-Normally, unless premature piston failure has
occurred, cylinder reboring is not necessary until wear at the top end
of cylinder is .008" or more.
Piston Pin Bush-Replace if pin clearance in bushing exceeds .003".
Bushing should be honed out after installing to provide .001" pin clearance.
Valves-Replace if stems are worn .003" or more, or heads when
refaced come to a sharp edge. Where valves and valve seats are refaced
on accurate eiectric g'rinder equipment, no grinding in is necessary.
Valvo Guides-Replace if worn .003" or more. If available, test guides
for wear with a s7*rt,.002" oversize stem pilot from valve seat grinder set.
Replace if there is noticeable clearance with this pilot in guide. Drive out
o1d valve guides with a double diameter drift, from inside to outside head.
After new guides are installed, vaive seats should always be recut, or
preferably reseated with electric B:rinder equipment.
TOP OVERHAIIL REASSEMBLY

S.V, Motors-Reassemble in the reverse order of dismantling. Note
that ne'"v cylinder base ,gasket is fitted and located correctly so that the
oil feed hole from cra.nkcase through cylinder base, is not obstructed. The
later model side valve motors have rubber oil seals fitted on top of tappet
guides at the bottom of tappet chamber and composition washers on the
upper end of, valve spring chamber. Note these are in position before
fitting cylinder barrel, Before tightening cylinder base nuts, note that
valve spring chamber is correctly located. New cyiinder head gaskets
should be fitted if available. Tighten the cylinder head stud nuts dourn
progressively, working from centre towards outside of head.
O.H.V. Motors-Refit cylinder with new cylinder base gasket, noting

this is located so that oil feed from crankcase throug:h cylinder base is
not obstructed. The cylinder head gasket can generally be used again if
in obviously good condition. If not, replace. E it cylinder head, and tighten
cylinder bolts in a diagonat pattern to 45-50 ft. lbs. torque. App1y jointing
compound to cylinder head rocker box joint surface. X.it the rear centre
rocker box bolts in rocker box, and then fit to cylinder head. InstaII the
pushrods and pushrod cover tubes in their original positions. Fit remaining
roc_ker box bolts and tighten. Re-adjust tappets, refit spark plug carburetoi
and exhaust system.
CEANI(CA.SE SEII,VICING
Crankcase servicing will not normally be required until noticeable
con-rod up and down big-end clearance, or flywheel mainshaft clearance
develops. Con-rod big-end play is best checked by grasping connecting
rod and li.fting straight up and down. It is possible to continue operation
with barely perceptible up and down play ot ,002,,-.008,,, howevei, when
this condition is reached, wear becomes more rapid.
Left mainshaft bearings can be checked with front chaincase removed
by lifting up and down on eng"ine sprocket. Right flywheel shaft bearing
can be checked to a certain extent by exerting considerable up and dor,l,n
pressure on con-rod, but if timing gear cover is removed, it can be checked
more accurately by lifting up and down on end of right flywheel shaft.
crankcase Dismantring-This is quite straightforward and notes in
sec_tion 1 of chapter sixteen "Reconditioning and Bervicing British Models',
will be found generally applicable.
Oil Pump Driving Worm Nut-The oil pump driving worm forms the
right flywheel mainshaft nut and is a lefthand thread.
Separation of Crankcases-After all crankcase seeuring bolts ha.,,e
been removed, crankcases should be heated to boiling water temperature.
This will free the ball bearing outer races from crankcase. crankcases
9an be separated by lowering crankcase assembty from a height of about
6" above bench top, and striking drive end of crankshaft on beneh. Note-
it -is not necessary to remove the crankshaft timing gear or oil pump
driving worm from the flyi;vheel shaft unless after dismaniling it is desired
to replace the right fl5rwheel shaft bearing.
crankcase Reassembly-tr'irst clean the crankcase joint surfaces and
remove any high spots with fine file. Heat left crankcase to boiling u,-ater
temperature and block up on bench top. Lower flywheel assembly with
beari4gs on shafts, into case. Allow left crankcale to cool and- apply
]9i1!i"S cornpound to joint surface. Heat right crankcase and fit orr. I]rp
lightly until joint surfaces come together, then bolt up.
There shotrld be a minimum of .005,, crankshaft and float in crankcase.
Note-rf bearings are a snug fit on shaft, this may not be evident without
tapping on either end of flywheel mainshafts. Shim steel washers carr
be _fitted between flyrvheels and bearing inner races to take up excessive
endplay. Generally, it is not worthwhile to adjust flpvheel eridplay pro_
viding flywheels are free and do not have in excess of .-020;, end
clearance. Note that a spacing collar is fitted between the two drive side
bearings.
con-Roil Big-End servicing and Fly'rvheel Alignrnent-Refer to section
1, Chapter Sixteen, for servieing details on this type of con-rod big_end
and fllrwheel assembly.
Valvo Timing-Cam g:ears are marked; see IIl. 128. Timing to original
marki4gs should prove correct ulless crankshaft gear has been removed
and refitted on a different keyway frorn the original (there are 3 keylvays
MOTOR SERVICING 307
e6--=
@
@
9
t|j, t22
NORTON 49O c.e. S.V. MOTOE
The parts layout shown ls common to both the O.I{.V. and
S.V. Norton Single motors. Late models have flat base tappets
replacing pivotted cam followers shown.
in erankshaft gear). To set timing, independent of markings, locate piston

Vta" pasltop of stroke (O.H.V. motors) antd. ey'ez" (S.V, motors). Install
exhaust came meshed in timing gear so that exhaust valve is just closed,
m, 123
NOR,TON CAM GDAR, TIMING
Valve timlng should be correct when cam gears are installed with marks registering as
lllustrated unless crankshaft gear has b€en removed and refitted oD. a different kelTay
than when odginaUy assembled. See notes under "Valve Timing," pages 306-309, for detalied
timing procedure.
IrL 124
TIMTNG GEAB COIrEE

FrrrrNcs @
w
Oi1 pressure relsase valve
scrcw plug, spring and ball
are shown at upper end of
timing coYer. Normally this
never requires dismantling,
if removed, retighten screw
plug
Dlus fully
fullv anal then unscrew
1% tums. Punch lock screw
with cover.
Before fitting timing cover
note that oil feed nozzle antl
sprlng shown are fitteal ln
timlng cover.
A fibre wastler must be
fitted. on oit pump feed tube
of sufflcient thickness to holtl
timing cover oft 1/64" -tAz' t ,
before screws are fitted. coat
timing cover joint with Joint-
lng compound;
MOTOR SERVICING 309
rotating cam gear anti-clockwise. Turn motor back so that piston is

6As" before top of stroke, and fit inlet cam so that inlet valve is just
commencing to open when cam is rotated clockwise. Revolve motor in
running direction and recheck to note that inlet valve just commences
to open when piston is e,Az"-;/ta" before top of stroke and exhaust valve just
completeiy closes when piston is the same amount past top of stroke. If
timing within these limits cannot be obtained by variation of one tooth
either way, on gear mesh, try fitting timing pinion on either of the other
two keSrv,rays, which g:ives a variation of a traction of a tooth.
(b) 500 c.c. O.H.V. ftvin

TOP OVER,IIAUL
Dismantling-Remove gas tank, carburetor, exhaust pipes with
mufflers, and spark piugs. Next, remove the engine-to-frame steady stay
and stay stud from top of rocker box. Disconnect rocker box oil feed.
Cylinder head is secured with five bolts numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5,
(Ill. No, 125), accessible from above, and five nuts. Two nuts, numbers
9 and 10, are located in the exhaust ports and the remainder, numbers
6, 7 and 8 are located between cylinder fins. After removal of these nuts
and bolts, head can be lifted off. If stuck, free by placing block of wood
under inlet or exhaust ports, striking blow with hammer. Lift cylinder
head up as far as possible, and also, lift the pushrods fully into head,
to clear cylinder block, $rhen cylinder head may be tilted backwards and
withdrawn.
Twin Motor Parts xamina.tion a,nd Repla,cements-Referenee should
be made to the notes under this heading under the Single Motors already
covered, which are generally applicable.
IOP O\rERHAUL REASSEII}IBLY

After of bench work, replacement of piston rings or
completion
ascertaining that these are in satisfactory condition, proceed with assembly
as follows: Fit new cylinder base gasket, Iocate pistons so that bottom
of skirts are resting on the crankcase surface, and lower cylinder block
over piston and rings. Ring eompressors are not necessary, the simplest
procedure being to lower the cylinder block over the ring ends of the top
ring on one piston then gently lowering cylinder block slightly further
while pressing in ring on side opposite to joint. The same operation should
be repeated on top ring on other piston and alternating over one ring at
a time in this way, until block is fitted over all ri4gs. Refit and tighten
the cylinder base nuts.
Fitting Cylinder Head-Fit new gasket if available. Rotate motor
until pistons are at top of stroke. Place cylinder head on block and tilt
it backwards while pushrods are inserted into the cylinder head tunnels.
Tho two long pushrods are for the inlet valves and fit at the centre, and
the two short pushrods are for the exhaust and fit at the outside. Lower
the cylinder head and pushrods into position so that pushrods locate on
tappets.
The cylinder head should be blocked up off cylinder block with a
f,lat wrench or piece of cardboard so that it is about Y+,, off block. The
rocker ball ends should then be engaged with the pushrods. A length of
urire bent to a "hook" shape at one end will be found useful for moving
pushrods into position. It will be found possible to view the pushrod and
roeker ends throug'h the front and rear valve tappet, cover openings. When
rockers and pushrods are eng'aged, remove spacer holding cylinder head
off block, and lower into position.
Tighten cylinder head nuts and bolts with moderate pressure and then
revolve motor to observe that all valves are operating'. Finally tighten
Ill. 126
NOBTON TWIN
CYLINDEE EEAD NIIIB
A]i[D BOLTS
Head nuts md bolts should

be giveD ftDat tightening tn
the order as numbered.
nuts ,and botts in the order as numbered in IlI. No. 725 to 45 ft. lbs. torque.
After cylinder head is fully tightened down, adjust tappets ,002" inlet and
.005" exhaust.
TWIN MOTOB CRAIYI(CASE SER,VICING

Crankcase servicing should not normally be necessary unlil over
20,000-30,000 miles have been covered' Eirst indication of need of crank-
case servicing is substantially reduced oil pressure. Mlhen oil pressure
drops below 15 lbs. at 30 m.p.h., in high gear, it is a fair indication that
con-rod big-end clearances are substantially increased, and bearing shell
replacements are required.
Before assuming that a low oil pressure condition indicates excessive
con-rod big-end clearance, it should, of course, first be ascertaired that
oiling system is in good order and tank drained and refilled with fresh
oil of the correct grade. (See page 126.) The pressure release va.h'e
normally does not require any attention, but when low oil pressure is
experienced, and when overhauling, should be dismantled and cleaned.
This is located at the rear of timing cover.
TimfurA Chain Removal-To remove timing ehains and timing gears,
proceed as follows: IJnserew oil pump driving worm. Note this is left hand
thread. Slacken the camshaft sprocket nut and the magneto shaft sprocket
nut. Unwinding the magneto sprocket nut will withdraw sprocket from
mqgneto taper. After camshaft sprocket nut is removed, withdraw sprocket
and generator driving gear with puller, and remove the intermediate gear
and sprocket assembly, magneto and exhaust camshaft drive chain
assemblies, complete.
Soparating Crankcases-Make sure that all erankcase securing screws
and bolts are first removed. Crankcases are easily separated by loweri-ng
crankcase assembly from a height of about 6" above bench top striking
drive end of crankshaft on bench.
When removing the right crankcase, note there may be some washers
fitted between the crankshaft and timing side bearing. Avoid iosing these.
Note also that the breather vaÎve disc and spring located at left end of
camshaft, are not lost.
MOTOR SERVICING 311
i Grankshaft and Con-rod Big-entl Servicing-Crankcase servicing' should

not normally be necessary until over 20,000-30,000 miles have been covered,
1 and excessive con-rod big-end clearance has developed. Standard con-rod
big-end clearance is .001". When con-rods are removed, crankshaft throws
should be checked with a micrometer if possible. If crankshaft wear does
not exceed .001" new standard bearing'shelis will give satisfactory results.
If wear is as much as .002" it is advisable to surface con-rod big-end
joints slightly to reduce clearance. In such cases it is permissible to fit
with just perceptible drag when con-rod bolts are fully tightened up to
25 ft. lbs. torque. Re-fit bearing caps on same rods as originally filted
and with cap markings reg:istering' with rod markings.
When servieing crankshaft, it is advisable to dismantle the crank-
shaft from flyuvheel, marking one side of flywheel with a corresponding
mark on crankshaft half, to ensure refitting in original position. The
fl5zlvheel and crankshaft throw centre space should be thoroughly cleaned
out of ail slud,ge. Before reassembling, make sure that joint surfaces are
perfectly clean, and tighten bolts progressively in a diagonal pattern.
Lock bolt nuts with centre punch.
Cra,nkcaso Reassembly-Crankcase joint surfaces should be coated
with gasket compound, and erankshaft endplay ehecked after bolting cases
together, Note-this should be between .005"-.008".
Installing the crankcase breather disc and spring at the left end of
camshaft should not be overlooked. Simplest method of, assembly is to
locate the breather disc with stiff grease to the stationary breather plate
located at end of camshaft bushing in left side crankcase, with the two
driving dogs towards.inside of crankcase. Locate the spring to this with
stiff grease. Breather dise should be located with the driving dogs in a
definite position, and when the crankcases are being brought together
the camshaft located so that the driving slot is in alignment with driving
dogs on breather disc, When crankcases are within about $,, from
joining up, they should be tapped lighUy, and if they do not come together,
it is likely that breather disc driving dogs are not reg:istering with the
camshaft slot, and camshaft should be rotated very slightly either way
while left crankcase is beiag tapped. When correctly assembled, camshaft
can be turned by hand with just perceptible drag and with a noticeable
spring action when pressed in frorn the right end.
Proceed with timing gear assembly as follows: E'it oil retaining disc
and triangular washer to right mainshaft, followed by gear key. Fit gear
on the shaft with the ehamfered ed,ge outside, F'it thin steel washer to
the iltermediate gear shaft and thick steel washer on the camshaft. Fit
the clutch spring on the camshaft, followed by camshaft key. Rotate
motor until the marked tooth on crankshaft gear is in the vertical position.
Grease both sides of the generator drive fibre gear with grease, and locate
g:ear in position on sprocket flange, and on the other side of gear, fit the
steel frietion washer locating it on the peg protruding from the sprocket
flange. Rotate the camshaft until kepvay is at top.
Locate the magneto chain (narrow) on the inner of the two sprockets
on the intermediate g:ear and the camshaft chain (wide) on the outside
sprocket. Rotate the intermediate gear and sprocket assembly until
marked gear tooth is in a bottom position. This will locate the marked
sprocket tooth at top. The camshaft sprocket should be revolved so that
its marked tooth is similarly in a topmost position. Camshaft chain should
be meshed with sprockets in this position. The magneto sprocket, with
automatic advance assembly, should be meshed in the magneto chain, and
the two sprocket and chain assemblies placed into position as a unit.
9l o
NORTON SERVICING
After locating chains and sprockets in position as described above,

check that timing is cor"rect by revolving motor and noting that when
the marked teeth of crankshaft and intermediate gear are in mesh, that
both the intermediate and camshaft sprocket marked teeth are vertically
located. The marked intermediate sprocket tooth, having just entered
chain, while the camshaft sprocket tooth being about to leave the chain.
F it and tlghten oil pump driving worm and eamshaft sprocket nut.
Before fitting timing cover, note that magneto must be timed. (See next
section.) Before refitting timing cover, make sure that joint surfaces
have been cleaned and coated with jointing compound. Be sure the oil
pump feed rubber seaiing washer is in position.
A spring-Ioaded rubber oil seal is located in the timing cover, fitting
over the right end of crankshaft to avoid loss of oil pressure at this point.
Replacement of this seal should not likely be necessary in between complete
motor overhauls and when overhauling, it is only necessary to check that
oii seal has perceptible drag on crankshaft end.
Section 4
IGNITION TIDIING
It is advisable to check ignition timing on all top overhaul jobs. This
is best checked with the cylinder head removed but can be done rvith
cyli.nder head fitted. On the O.H.V. motors, piston movement can be
followed with a length of stiff wire through the spark plqg hole. On the
S.V. motors through screw plug hole in centre of tiead. gest method is to
en8'ag:e high gear, having machine on rear stand and revolve by rear wheel.
500 c.c. O.H.V. Singles-Timing Procedure

1. Clean and set magneto points .012" gap fully open, and set ignition
control advance.
2. Adjust magneto chain to l/n" slack midway between sprockets at
tightest point.
3. ree magneto sprocket from taper, clean sprocket and shaft tapers.
F
Have sprocket meshed in chain and resting on taper.
4. Revolve motor slowly in running direction until piston is 7.6', before
top of stroke (both valves closed).
5. Revolve magneto armature slowly in running direction (clock*'ise
on drive end and anti-clockwise on breaker end), until points just
commence to separate.
6. Fix the drive sprocket onto magneto armature shaft taper in this
position by giving a sharp rap with hammer, using an old piston
pin or box wrench as spacer over shaft end.
7. Securely tighten magneto sprocket nut, giving wrench a few light
raps with hammer. Also check tightness of inlet cam spindle
driving sprocket nut. Recheck timing to make sure it has not
slipped during nut tightening.
Magneto Base Scrervs-Single Models-If magneto has been removed
before refitting, check the tightness of the four countersunk trase screrrs.
Hammer-tighten screws and lock by punching aluminum base into scre-iv
head slots.
500 c.c. Twin Magneto Timing Procedure

1. Mount magneto on crankcase noting that armature shaft and
sprocket hub taper hole are clean and dry.
IGNITION TTMING 313
2. Clean and set breaker points .012" gap fully open.
3. Remove spark plugs if cylinder head is on, turn motor until pistons
are a/a" before top of stroke.
4. Block advance mechanism in advanced position by wedging a piece
of wood or cardboard between the stationary and movable plates
of advance unit.
5. Revolve magneto armature via contact breaker end, in its running
direction (clockwise at breaker end) until points just commence to
separate.
6. Using a tube spacer or box wrench that fits over armature nut,
"fix"
sprocket hub to shaft taper with a light rap with hammer.
7. Tighten up nut. For final tightening give wrench a few light taps
with hammer.
8. Revolve motor and check that breaker points just eommence to
separate in the correct position.
High Tension \ilires-As firing intervals are exactly evenly spaced, it
does not matter on which cam or which piston timing is done. It is, of
course, necessary to fit the high tension wires correctly to spark pIugs.
A simple method is just to connect the wires, and if motor does not itait,
to switch them. To be sure the wires are connected correctly, remove one
high tension pickup, revolve motor until breaker points just cornmence to
se_parate with brass contact of collector ring facing this pickup openi4g.
The wire from this pickup should be connected to the cylinder ttrat has
both valves closed.
Magneto Cha,in Ailjustment-Twin Models-Slack shoutd be %0,, mid-
way between sprockets at tightest point. A slight range of ad.justment is
provided in the magneto mounting. Slacken magneto mounting stud nuts,
moving magneto as required and retightening.
Camsha,ft Chain Atljustment-This should be adjusted to provide /6,,
free slack midway between sprockets at top of chain. To adjust, slacken
the two adjusting shoe securing nuts. Move adjusting shoe as required
and retig'hten.
r[. 126
NORTON SINGI,ES MAGNETO

CHAIN ADJUSTMENT
Slacken lock screw "B" and mag.

centre base bolt "A" tlirectly above,
pry magneto back to give Ya" free
up and dom chain slack midway
between sprmkets at tightest point.
en lock screw "8" moderately, this

thleads into the aluminum base
and overtightening cu strip
threads. In some lnstances slackBn-
ing the front and rear "A" frame
plate bolts may be necessary to
enable movement of magneto.
aL4 NORTON SEIRVICING
Section 5
GEAR,BOX, CLUICH AND CIIAINS
Gearbox
Gearbox Lubrica,tion-Motor oi1 same grade as used for motor is correct
lubricant. See page 126.
Kickstarter-slipping of kickstarter is usually due to a worn pawl

which is easily replaced after removal of gearbox end cover. A broken
kickstarter spring may be occasionally experienced, and machine should
not be operated with pedal hanging down. Untll replacement spring is
fitted, fasten starter with rubber band or tie to oil tank filler neck.
Foot Gea,rshift Mechanism-Breakage of the large spring that returns
the foot pedal, or the smaller spring that controls the ratchet pawls
sometimes occurs. Replacement of these can be made by removing the
footchange cover only on the earlier type gearbox, and by removing gearbox
end cover on the later type. On the early type gearboxes with the foot-
change mechanism located above gearbox, footchange shaft support studs
should be checked for tightness when servicing. These thread into the
aluminum, and are locked by shouldered hexagon nuts at the back of
footcharlge case.
The g:earbox end cover on the early type gearbox, and the gearbox
inner end cover on the later type should not be removed unless necessary
for kickstarter or internal gearbox repairs'
The cap screws securing the gear rod lever at footchange, and the
lever at bottom front of gearbox, should be kept tight. If very excessive
play develops in the gear control rod joints, pins should be replaced.
Footchange Control Adjustment-On the early footchange rvith linkage
(Itl. No. 727), lt difficulty is experienced engaging either high or lors gear,
control rod should be adjusted. If high gear does not always engage lthen
pedal is pressed down, try lengthening rod slightly by unscre*ing cler-is
at end one or two turns. If difficulty is experienced engag:ing lorr gear,
rod may be too long. Try shortening rod by screwing cletis on one or
two turns. Be sure that worn pivot pins or loose lever arms securing cap
screws, are not responsible for lost motion, causing this trouble.
Gearbox Disma,ntling-Dismantling of the main gearbox is seldom
necessary. Note that the gear shifter fork shaft screws into the ieft end
of gearcase and can be removed when dismantiing by unscre*'ing, using
a wrench on the flats at right end.
When reassembling, have both shifter forks fitted and pegs located
in the cam plate g'rooves, before fitting shifter shaft. The thick bronze
thrust washer fits on mainshaft with grooved side towards 1eft.
If camplate has been removed, it is important to remesh the camplate
g:ear in correct time with the shifter quadrant (sector gear), before
reassembly of g'ears is commenced. Note that mesh permits the camplate
to be revolved far enough both to the right and to the ieft, so that the
low gear locating "V" slot in cam outer edge passes the locating plunger
GEARBOX, CLUTCH AND CHAINS 315
]tl at top of gearbox, and when the sector gear is moved to other extreme
of movement, that the high gear "V" siot in camplate edge passes the
locating plunger. Either of the two possible gear meshes are satisfactory.
I
The three "V" grooves close together in camplate are low, neutral and
second. Neutral is the shallow 8:roove, 3rd and 4th are on the right of
these when facing camplate from rear of box.
Rear Drive Sprocket Nut-This is lefthand thread. Hammer-tighten
this nut before fitting lockring washer and screw.
By courtesy of "Motorcycling"
rI1. 127
NORToN GPARBOX AND FO(IIICEANGE ASSEMBLY

The above illustration shows the layout of parts in the Norton 4-speed footchange gearbox.
Later models feature a completely enclosed fmtchaDge unit but the internal gearbox assembly
remains similar to the type illustrated.
Ol1 filter plug and ths kickstarter ratchet pawl assembly are shom in inset.
On later model gearboxes oil is added yia the clutch control adjustmeat opeDl[g. Correct
oll level ls to the square headed screv'plug at rear of starter shaft.
ru. 128
FBONT CEAIN AD.TUSTMEIiIT

Slacken bottom pivot spintile nut
"8," top clamping
tuln screw "C,, in to ti8hten, out
to slackea ctlain. IJlow 16,t-y,,
free slack at tigtrtest point.
Secure retlghtentng of top bolt ..A,,
aDd bottom ptvot spindle
is most lmportant.
Although sliAhily different tn aletail
from this iUustration, late modet
Single aDal fwins have a similar
pivotted gearbox mounting for front
chain a(iustmeDt with a.djuster on
left side.
Il1. 129
NOR,TON CLUICE CO:iTROL

ADlrUST}TE}'T
To take up slight amount of ex-
cessive cable slack, unsc:eF cabie
adjuster as shown, by arros', allow
7/16" free cable slack at nipple. It
may be necessary at times to ad-
just the operating arm pGqiricf, on
shaft to maintain the b€s! ope.ai-
ing angle of arm s'ith cable. To
adjust, turn down cable adluster,
slacken arm pinch bolt ",{." t]m
shaft "8" clocklvise s'ith sc!ew
driver until pressure is felr. tighten
pinch bolt with arm held dosT
about 1/6" from cable end. There
should be no tendency ior cable to
puU out of operating arm jn tie
fully disenga8ed position.
F'ORKS, F'R,AME AND WHEELS ort
' Sectrou 6
tr'ORKS, F'RAXIE AND WTIEELS

Norton Plunger Forlrs
Lubrication-Refer to Section 1 of this chapter for lubrication details.
Fork Servicing Requirements-IJnder normal operating conditions no
serviclng will be required until a very high mileage has been covered,
other than seasonal change of oil. Fork removal and servicing procedure is
detailed below. .
B,omova,l of Fork Assembly-Proceed as follows:

1. Remove front wheel and mud guard.
2. Remove ammeter and switch panel from headlight and remove
headlight.
3. Disconnect steering damper anchor plate.
4. Disconnect speedometer drive and light cable.
5. Remove front brake cable.
6, Remove handlebars. ?hese can be rested on tank, but tank should
be protected with a thick cloth.
7. Remove steering damper and rod and steering stem top nut.
8. Remove oil filler plugs at top of each leg. Free top fork crown lug
from fork leg tube taper ends by striking under lug' a few sharp blows
with hammer. E'orks can now be lowered away. Care should be taken to
avoid loss of head bearing balls.
Refitting Forks to f'rarno-Proceed as follows:
1. Make sure that fork stem and frame head bearing races are not
pitted. Smear with thick grease and locate 17 balls in the race fitted on
tho bottom of the steering stem and the same number in the top frame
Iace.
2. Fit the forks to frame and place the top race into position. Fit dust
cover and tighten down the adjusting nut with moderate pressure. Replace
the top fork crown lug', the hexagon plqgs at the top of each fork lug
and other parts removed.
3. Steering Head Bearing Adjustment-Slacken the fork leg pinch
bolts in the fork stem lower lug. Tighten down the steering stem adjusting
nut with moderate pressure then back off about 7ro turn. Retighten the
fork leg pineh bolts. Tighten down the top stem nut and recheck the fork
leg top nuts for tightness. Note-fork head bearing should be perfectly
free without any trace of play.
Fork Leg Servicing-Either fork leg can be removed from the forks
independently without removal of the complete fork assembly. After
rernoval of front wheel and front mud guard slacken the lower leg pinch
bolt in the fork stem lower lug, of the fork leg to be removed. Slacken the
hexagon plug at top of leg about one or two turns. Strike a sharp blow
with hammer. This will free fork leg tube taper end from the top lug.
Care should be taken in this operation. If the plug is unscrewed too far
there may be insufficient plug threads gripping in fork tube and stripped
threads can result. The lower fork leg complete with spring and main tube
c.an now be withdrawn. Note that there is a leather washer fitted at the
top of the buffer spring (short spring). This sometimes sticks inside the
fork spring cover. The bottom spring cover attached to the lower fork
leg can easily be removed by removal of the two securing screws. After
removal of the lower leather washer and unscrewing the notched ring nut
ffi
-)
d
@
(89
@
((-_n
ffi
ts
[t. L30
THE NOBTON PLUNGER FORI(S
TI9 ry-or-ton- plunger forks are of very simple construction and in normal servtce no attentioD
w-iU li\:ely be required other than m-ainteriance of oil suppty and seasonal change of gBde.
The order of assembry of the fork leg bushings ana oir i&i p&rts is seen at rig:ht. oil seal
slould b€ installed so that the radiuJed side if teathei is up.
lvh-enever refltting front wheel the riehi sia" first be tightened then txe
forkc 6p..r1.4 up and down a few t-imes before "ir"'nut-sto:uta
tighiening the rishi iiIJ toii iig
pinch bolt, "":.
F'ORKS, FRAME AND WHEELS 319
shown in illustration No. 130, the lower leg can be withdrawn from the
main tube. After extended milea,ge, it may be necessary to replace the
lower plain bushing and the upper shouldered slider bushing and the oil
seal. Under normal service conditions, no other parts will require replacing
until a very high mileage has been covered.
Assembling and Refitting Fork Leg-F it the plain lower bush to the
bottom of the main tube and tighten securing nut securely. X'it the lower
fork leg followed by the shouldered bush with the shoulder up, the oil seal
with the radius side up. Tighten the notched ring nut with moderate
pressure. Next fit the smaller of the two leather washers over the locking
ring follo,wed by the main spring. The short buffer spring and the remaining
large leather washer follow next. Slip on the bottom fork spring cover
and refit securing serews. Install the fork leg through the lower stem lug'
into the top lug. tr'it top leg serew plug and tighten, Tighten lower fork
lug pinch bolt. If oil is not drained completely from lower leg, remove
drain screw and drain, refit drain screw. Remove top fork leg lug and
fill with 1/+ pint of oil (S.A.E. No. 20, normal temperature). Refit and
tighten fork leg top plug.
Spring Frame Servicing
No servicing will normally be required until a very high mileag'e has
been covered. It is most important that the rear wheel axle nuts be kept
well tightened. There is a grease nipple on each fork end and use o,f grease
gun on these nipples at regular greasing intervals is all that is required.
SPRING FRAME DISMANTLING
1. Remove rear wheel.
2. ,Slacken the hexagon head eap screw at the bottom of the plunger
Ieg a few turns. Slacken the pinch bolt at the top of rear frame lug. Give
the lower cap screw a sharp rap with hammer. This will free the mainshaft
which has a tapered end from the taper seat in lower end of frame lug.
3. Remove bottom cap screw,
4. Mainshaft can be removed frorn above,
5. Spring Assembly Removal-As springs are under tension care must
be exercised in removal. With a large serew driver or tire lever, pry
between the rear of fork lug at both top and bottom and the spring
enclosing tubes gradually until the spring cover holes are sufficiently clear
of the frame lug to enable a 1/+" or 'Aa" rod threaded at both ends to be
fitted through. A large washer and one or two smaller washers and nuts
should be fitted at each end. Then the spring assembly can be pried out
completely. As an alteraative to the rod referred to, wire can be looped
through to check the extension o,f the spri4gs as released, but the threaded
rod referred to will be found an advantage in compressing the springs for
reassembly.
Examina.tion of Parts-Springs should be compared for length and if
there is appreciable difference, replacement should be made.
Spring Frams Reassembly-Springs and covers should be assembled
to fork legs as shown on the right fork leg in illustration No. 131. Springs
are best compressed to enable fitting between fork ends by use of a long
Vt" ot 1La" rod referred to in the dismantling procedure threaded at both
ends with a large washer and smaller washers under nuts. Tighten nuts
until assembly can be started into frame ends, then the rod can be removed
and assembly tapped into position. Oil the mainshaft and fit with tapered
end down. Tap into position. Fit the bottom cap screw and washer and
tighten securely. Retighten top pinch bo1t.
. IU. 131
IEE NORTON SPBING TNAME
This. ,llustration, showing the right plunger parily dismanued and sectioneC. :ereals a:l
construcJloDal ud assembly details. R€feience shoulA be Dade to the notes unce: S!::rg
-B'rame Sert'iclng for disman$ing and reassembly pr@eature.
NOBTON GIRDER SPRING FORI{S

F'ork Spindle Adjustment-To take up excessive tink sid.e play, slacken
spindle link locknuts, unscrew spindle by fitting wrench to squared ends
(anti-clockwise), retighten nuts and check. To give more side plav screrl'
spindles in (clockwise). One washer on each spindle at least shbuld be
free to turn with fing'ers and there shouid be no noticeable link to fork
side play. Be sure spindle nuts are weII tightened.
The two top and the lower rear spindles are threaded into the links
at the squared end and tighten up against spindle shoulder on links at
other ehd.
The bottom front spindle is threaded into the ]eft link and has shoulder
on right end tightening against right tink. This seldom requires adjusting.
To adjust, slacken left spindle end nut, tighten in spindle full, then siacken
back 7/+ turn and retighten left end nut. The large nut at the right end of
this spindle bolt adjusts the friction damper pressure, Tighten this at
1000-mile intervals so that fork action is noticeably checked ilighily rvhen
tested by lifting up and dowr on handlebars. Avoid overtightenlng of this
adjustment; forks must be free to operate.
EORKS, T'RAME AND WHEELS 321
Fork Steering Heatl Bearing-To adjust, slacken pinch bolt at stem

under handlebars, tighten steering stem top nut under damper knob fully
with moderate pressure, back off %o turn, tighten pinch bolt and snug:
dowrr stem nut, !'ork head bearing must be quite free but with no per-
ceptible play.
WIIEELS
Front Wheel Removal-Plunger Forks-With machine on front and
rear stands, disconnect brake cable from lever, unscrew adjuster from
brake plate, remove leftside axle nut, slacken rightside fork axle pinch
bolt, and withdraw axle.
Refitting Front Wheel Plunger Forks-Note that brake plate anchor
lug is engaged in the slotted lug on right fork leg. Tighten the right side
axle nut. Roll maehine off stands and operate forks up and down a few
times, then tighten leftside fork axle pinch bolt. Connect and adjust brake
eontrol.
Rear Wheel Removal-Rigid Frame-Remove the three stud nuts that
secure hub to brake drum. Disconnect speedometer cable and unscrew
rear axle and withdraw from ri,ght side. Remove distance piece between
frame and speedometer drive. Wheel can now be lifted off brake drum
studs and removed. This method leaves the brake drum and chain in
position. If it is desired to remove the complete wheel, it is not necessary
to remove the hub to brake drum stud nuts. The chain requires discon-
necting and brake anchorage trolt removing.
Refitting wheel is the reverse of this procedure. The brake drum
stud nuts must be securely tightened.
Rear Wheel Bemoval-Spring Frame-Slacken axle nuts. Disconnect
speedometer drive. Remove brake rod adjusting nut, disconnect chain.
Brako Adjustments-The only brake adjustments provided are on the
controls. The rear brake being simply adjusted by tightening adjusting
nut at end of brake rod and front brake by cal:Ie adjuster on brake plate.
Unscrewing front cable adjuster reduces control slack.
Ill. 132
REAR, IVIIEEL R,EIIOVAI.

Remove the three sleeve nuts, unscrew and
withilraw spindle. remove dust cover and
ors-tance- piece. wheel can now be Ufted.
orx- orake drum studs. Be sure to re-
tighten securely.
9n sprinc frame modets without puil-out
axle. wlrcel- is removed fV stackening totfr
ule nuts, removing chain con_linI and
brake rod. adjusting nut.
322
CHAPTER TEN
PANTHER SERT/ICING
Note-This chapter covers servicing data applying espeeially to
Panther mactrines. tr'or information on operation refer to Chapter Three
and for details on maintenance requirements Chapter X'our. For complete
overhaul procedure generally applicable to English machines, also serviting
data on gearboxes, carburetors, electrical systems and generators, refer to
Chapter Sixteen.
Section I
LUBBICATION
G?ades of Motor Oil-For recommended oil g:rades for varying tem-
peratures, refer to lubrication seetion of Chapter tr'our, "Maintenance,"
page 126.
Motor Oil Changing-The crankcase oil sump should be drained and
refilled with fresh oil of the correct grade at 1000-mile intervals, except
under dusty conditions without aircleaner equipment and when operating:
at temperatures below freezing when oil should be changed at 500-mile
intervals,
Panther Lubrication System-The Panther motor lubrication system
is partieularly trouble free. The pump of very simple constructlon is
composed of a reciprocating plunger incorporated in the rear timing gear
inner hub, which forms the rotor. Reciprocating motion to plunger is
imparted by stud in crankcase eccentric to rotor engag'ing in slot in
plunger. There are no springs, balls or other parts in the pump itself. See
illustrations 133 and 134 for details of pump construction and oil pressure
adjustment.
Note that oil is fed direct to motor via oilway in crankcase and
cylinder base from which piston and con-rod big-end are lubricated. Oil is
also fed to O.H.V. rockers and valves via external pipe. Oil accumulates
in bottom of flywheel chamber where it is picked up by flywheels and
surplus thrown into oil reservoir formed in the front part of crankcase.
The method of flJr.Jyheel oil return to reservoir provides very thorough
lubrication due to the resulting flywheel oil throw on piston, cylinder and
bearings,
An oil consumption of approximately 500 miles per quart is norrnal on
this type of semi-dry sump system. To reduce oil consumption, slacken
oil pressure screw (anti-clockwise). This allows more oil to be by-passed
to sump and reduces motor feed supply.
Checking Oil Pumping-Actual oil pumping can be ehecked by
slackening oil pipe to rocker box union or removing hexagon cap screw
located at the top and rear of left crankcase. Oil should flow at these
points when motor is running.
Sump OiI Ca,pacity-1948 and earlier 250 c.c, and 850 c.e. model
Panthers have an oil capacity of only one quart, L$4g-bZ models 1/a
quarts. Oil supply should be checked every 200 miles and sump kept
well filled.
i
?
I LUBRICATION 323
Oil Sump Filter a,nd Drain-Ifexagon brass plug at bottom right

of- crankcase drains oil and ineorporates a mesh [ype filter on ]eedside
to
pump. Clean this screen thoroughly when changing oiI. Note that fibre
washer is fitted on plug and that it is securely retightened.
Crankcase Undershield-On machines operated. off main roads a
crankcase undershield shouid be fitted to protect crankcase and oil drain
plug which are very vulnerable to damage from both road rock outcrops
and also crossing rail tracks on the 1948 and earlier 2b0 and 3b0 c.c.
models. A suitable shield can easily be made from /s,, sheet iron.
crankcase Breather-on 1937 and later type models this is located
on the drive end of the crankshaft in the sprocket nut. The shaft is driited
and the smarl disc allow"s air to escape w'hen the piston descends and
closes when it is sucked in up against the end of the crankshaft. This
disc does wear out and should usually be replaced at about 20,000-mile
intervals.
Front chain oil Pipe-on 1938 and earrier moders equipped with oil
feed pipe from top of crankease sump to front chain, excessive chain oiling
may be experienced. This is usually due to a stuck or improperly seating
breather valve but if this is in ord,er and supply is still eiceslive, nip end
of pipe as required to cut down oil feed.
Oru rc R*rc Erc.
bv-pnss Hol:.
Raouves wrrx Rcroa.
ru. 133
sectional view of the Panther.oil pump oil pressure adjust*ent. on later mod.ers, the
cap oYer the oil pressure adiusting screw ?nd
is in the form of a-plate seluiea wtiir &i u.."*".
cylinder rread Gasket Locating-Note that 19Bg and earlier moder

Panther cylinder head gaskets must be rocated with the rocker box oir
return hole to the front left side, registering w"ith oil hole in block,
otherwise oil drainage from rocker bofvia cylinder channel wiii te cut
off and an excessive oil level in valve ehambers ,will result.
Panther Front Chain Lubriea,tion-On oilbath types use S.A.E. No. 10
oil, Ievel to bottom row of chain. on non-oilbath types, supplement engine
oiling to ehain with oil can if chain does nol appeai well oiled on
examination.
1940-1948 250 c.c. antl BEO c.c. oilbath chainca,ses-Due to insufficient
load capacity of the small diameter three-plate clutches fitted to these
models it may be found under some conditions an advantage to operate
324 PANTHER SERVICING
rn. 131
ADJUSTING PAT\TIIEB
OIL FRESSURE
When cap at rear of pushrod
tube base is remoYed, Pressure
adjustment screw is accessible.
Note that screwing this IN
(clockwise, gil-es the engine
more oil as this increases the
spring pressure on the bY-Pass
bail and reduces the amount of
oil that escapes back to sump
Yia the by-pass.
TO REDUCE OII, SUPPLY-
TurE pressure adiusting screlv
OUT (anti-clockwise); this al-
Iolvs more oil from PumP to be
released back to the sumP vla
the by-pass vaive.
If oil consumption is stiil ex-
cessive aiter slackening adiust-
ing scre-w 3 turns from stand-
ard setting, worn Piston rings,
or piston anal cylinder condition
is indicated.
Oil pressure should not be re-
duced to point where oil feed to
rocker box stops, this can be
checked by undoing top connec-
tion of rocker oil feed line. Ad-
justing screw should be scres'ed.
back in at least two turns from
point where rocker feed is cut
off.
without oil in the chaincase and apply grease or oil chain with oil can at
about 200-mile intervals.
Use of oil in the ehaincase slightly reduces the load capacity and if
slippage is noted on starting or accelerating it may be advisable to operate
wiifr clutch dry. Reference should be made to Section E ive of this chapter,
also Section Ten of Chapter Sixteen for clutch servicing data.
Gearbox Luhrication-See page 330.
Oleomatic I'ork Lubrication-A grease nipple is fitted towards the
lower end of each leg and grease gun should be applied at 1000-mile
intervals. E or details on fork oil supply refer to page 332.
Section Two
CLEI\R,ANCES AND SETTINGS
PANTHER 250 c.c. 350 c.c. 600 c.c.

Clearances and Settings o.H.v. o.H.v. o.H.v.
Piston Clea,rances-Pistons finishetl
round a,nd ta,pered
Bottom of skirt......... .004" .0041/z-5" .005r/2"
Top of skirt............... .006" .007" .007 r/2"
Lower ring lands..... .010" .012" .015"
2nd and top ring lands.............. .013" .015" .018"
Piston ring joiat gap.... .010,, .012" .015"
eiiton pirf fi pist6nl..................................
(Very light tap or hand push fit)
Piston in rod (reamed)................. .001/2,, .001/2,, .001"
Piston pin in rod (honed)......... .001" .001,, .0011/2,,
Standard cylinder bore, inches.. 2.362" 2.7953" 3.425"

Standard cylinder bore, mm...... 60 mm. 7L mm. 87 mm.
fnlet valve tappet (motor cold) ............... .001" .001" .001"
Exhaust valve tappet (motor cold.)....... .002" .002" .002"
rnlet valve stem j_i suide..... _.........:...... .003" .003" .003,,
Exhaust valve stem in guide.................. .005" .005" .005"
Valve seat angle.............. 45 Deg. 45 Deg. 45 Deg.
Ignition advance (on piston)... 34" E6"
Breaker point gap (coil ig.) to 1948... ... .018" .018"
Breaker point gap (coit ig.) '49-'52. .... .012" .072"
Breaker point ,gap (mag. ig.)..... .072" .072"
Con-rod big-end clearanee...... .00],b-1" .00\/2-7" .001"
Con-rod side clearance.............. _.............. .005"-.015,, .005"-.015,, .005,,-.015,,
Valvo Tirning-
Inlet vaJve opens before T.D.C............... 10 Deg. 10 Deg. 25 Deg.
fnlet valve clbses after 8.D.C................. 45 Deg. 45 Deg. 55 Deg.
Exhaust valve opens before B.D.C.......... 65 Deg. 65 Deg. 70 Deg.
Exhaust valve cioses after T.D.C............ 15 Deg. 15 Deg. 30 Deg.
Carburetor Settings
Carburetor bore size 23,/""t
' 17Ltt
90 110 220
4/s 5/4 29 /s
.1065 .1065 .1065
Panther Piston creara,nce Note-panther pistons used in original

equ_ipment have generatly been finished round and with skirts tapeled
3n$ tirg _clearances specified above are for this type of finishing. ff
being finished "cam Ground." use .006" cam and reduce skirt clearance
.001/2"-.007".
rgnition Timing Note-1949-1g82 2so c.c. model with Lucas automatie
advance breaker points separate with piston at top of stroke in retard
position.
326 PANTHER, SERVICING
Section Three
MOTOR SERVICING
Pbnther Top Overhaul Notes
Dismantling-Removal of g:as tank saves time on the 250 c.c. ano
350 c.c. models. Disconnect exhaust valve compression release cable at
handlebar lever by turning motor until exhaust valve lifts, taking tension
off cable, and then puII on outer casing at lever, withdrawing from
bracket socket and then inner cable nipple can be easily taken from
lever. Leave cable connected at head.
On the 250 and 350 models, cylinder head can be removed after
removal of rocker box, rocker oil feed and drain lines, exhaust pipe,
carburetor, and undoing pushrod tube flange nuts and the five head
stud nuts. Note that after roeker box cover is removed the pushrods can
easily be lifted out by prying up rocker ends with a large screwdriver. This
simplifies head removal. Apply penetrating oi1 between head and exhaust
pipe ring nut and allow to soak in if nut will not unscrew readily.
On the model 100 it is necessary to unscrew the lower end of pushrod
tube, remove the cylinder head to frame Iugs, the two head stud nuts,
one at front and rear and the four nuts on the long cylinder head to
crankcase rods. These rods should be tapped down to enable head to be
removed then tapped down further for removal of cylinder block. Avoid
damage to rod threads.
If sticking of head to block is experienced, head can be freed by
placing a biock of 'wood under exhaust ports and striking with hammer.
Valves-A tendency towards gummiag of exhaust valve stem in guide
is common, resulting from the considerable lubdcation provided to rocker
box. All traces of carbon should be removed from the exhaust va-lve stem,
If loss of compression was noted before dismantling, and there is evidence
of the exhaust valve stem having been sticking in guide, a warped valve
may have resulted and replacement should be made if refacing does not
give satisfactory reaults.
Both valves and seats should be reconditioned with electric valve seat
grinder equipment if avaiiable, after which no grinding in should be
necessary.
Valve Guide Boro Size-This is .379", strightly larger than the standard
Ys" (.375") size. When reconditioning valve seats with equipment using'
fixed size guide pilot stem, if suitable size pilot is not available, a Ve"
pilot can be used, first fitting a shim of paper or .002" brass stock into
valve g'uide to provide the required snug fit for reseating pilot.
Pushrods-These are interchangeable but should be marked before
removing to ensure refitting in original positions. Note outside pushrod is
the exhaust.
Rockers-Removal is not necessary but simplifies reassembly of
pushrods. Removal of roeker spindle nuts and lock washers on left side
enables rocker spindles to be tapped out.
TOP OVERHAUL BEASSEMBLING

After the bench work has been eompleted, reassembly is just the
reverse order of dismantling. The following points should be noted:
MOTOR, SERVICING ;za
Piston Ring Grooves-Before fitting new rings to piston be sure that

joints have been filed to required gap of ,012"-.075" when fitted in unworn
part of cylinder and that all carbon has been removed from bottom of
piston ring grooves by means of a broken section of old ring used as a
scraper. Panther pistons have no surplus ring groove depth clearance and
grooves must be absolutely clean. In some instances where replacement
rings are fitted it will be found necessary to have the piston ring grooves
turned out in a lathe .010"-.020" deeper. Always eheck to see that rings
wili go ri,ght down into grooves and fit down at least ievel with or below
ring lands.
Piston Pin Lockrings-Note that these fit right down int-o grooves.
When corectly fitted, gap between ends of lockrings will be approximately
1A" -5A2".
Cylinder Head Fitting-Note that the cylinder head gasket on 1938

and earlier models is located with the rocker box oil drain hole to the
front left side to register with head and block oil holes. It is advisable to
check all nuts for freely threading on head studs before fitting head.
This wiil save time on assembly. Greasing or oiling stud threads is an
aid to easy threading up of head nuts.
Pushrod Tube-Note that new 1,42" paper gaskets are fitted at top
and bottom of pushrod tube before installing pushrods on 1948 and
earlier 250 and 350 c.c. models, on 1949 and later machines a rubber
gasket is used. Note that telescoping pushrod enclosing tube should be
fitted with the large diameter tube at the bottom so that oil drainage
drains past the tube joint. If tubes are seized and will not telescope, free
with penetrating oil.
Refitting Rockers-Cylinder head should first be fitted and tightened
dolvn. Note that both valve tappets are right down and fit inlet pushrod,
rocker and shaft first. Note that inlet rocker shaft has extended end
forming pivot for compression release lever. Inlet tappet is most accessible
if exhaust tappet is withdrarvn and it is good poiicy to remove this and
adjust inlet tappet after pushrod and rocker are fitted before fitting
exhaust rocker, etc. Replace exhaust tappet, fit pushrod, rocker and shaft
and adjust exhaust tappe+-. Note that inlet tappet should be quite free to
spin'with barely perceptible shake. Exhaust tappet should be free to spin
and have perceptible shake. It is not necessary to use feelers for tappet
adjusting and not possible to do so for routine tappet adjustments when
rocker box lid is not iifted. Required cold clearances are approximately
.001" inlet ar.d .002" exhaust.
Compression Release Cable-The lack of clearance between rocker
box and tank bottom results in a sharp bend in compression release cabie.
This can be minimized by having cable adjuster screwed into head as far
as possible consistent with operation of valve lifter. Shorten cable by
sliding down nipple at handlebar lever on inner cable, if necessary to take
up appreciable slack. Make sure control cable still has at least 7s"
operating slack before lifting valve. Improper operation of this control
may be due to bottom end nipple having worked to one side of the bottom
control connecting link nipple and catching on the end of control return
spring housing. Filing of ends of bottom control cabie nipple and
securing in place by pinching control link nipple in vise will overcome
trouble.
Gaskets-If a set of new gaskets is used no oil leakage should be
or cement is unnecessary. If old gaskets
experienced and g:asket shellac
are being re-used gasket cement will improve oiltightness. No gasket

cement will normally be required on head joint. OId gasket can be
improved by annealing. Heat to red heat and quench in water. Only a
special heatproof gasket cement should be used on head joint if cement
is used. Care must be taken not to block cylinder base oil feed or rocker
box oil drain holes with gasket cement. Fibre washers will be found more
suitatrle on the rocker box oil drain union than the original composition
washers used.
Timing Gear Cover-Note that the spring loaded plunger that main-
tains pressure on oil pump gear is correctly fitted into timing cover with
spring into cover and plung:er bearing against gear.
Coil Ignition Models Breaker Cam, 19118 and ,Elarlier Models-Note
that breaker cam is a taper fit on camshaft. This should be removed before
attempr-ing removal of timing cover. After removing centre screw, pry
behind cam with a corner screwdriver and strike screwdriver a sharp
rap with hammer. This wi]l free cam from taper.
Gas Tank Refitting-Note that rubber buffer is fitted on each side of
frame at front connection and that electrical cables pass to forks on top
of this front tank bolt on 250 and 350 7947 and earlier models with spring
girder forks.
Panther Cranlrcase Servicing

Engine Sprocket Remova,l-Sprockets are a plain taper fit on engine
mainshaft except on models equipped with spring shock absorber drive. On
these types, the sprocket and shock absorber mounting hub is a plain taper
fit on mainshaft. Sprockets and shock absorber mounting hubs are best
removed by use of a gear puller. After a moderate amount of pressure is
applied, strike end of puller screw a sharp blow with hammer. If suitable
puller is not available support left crankcase and strike crankshaft drir.e
end a sharp blow with hammer and drift.
Cra,nksha,ft Timing Plnion Removal-No nut is used. This gear is just
a press fit on crankshaft and is easily removed with a gear puller. Care
should be taken to avoid damage to crankshaft end.
Engine Mainshaft Bearings-On 500 c.c. and 600 c.c. motors a roller
bearing is used on both shafts. On the early 250 c.c. and 350 c.c. models a
roller bearing is also used on both shafts but on the later modeis a plain
bronze bush replaces the roller bearings on the right shaft. 1949 and
Iater 250 and 350 c.c. models use plain type lead-bronze bearings for
both flywheel shafts. When replacing plain type bearings, crankcases
should be heated for removal and replacing and bushes honed or reamed
after installing to give .0071/2" shaft clearance. These bearings are very
durable and it is unusual for replacements to be necessary under 30,000
miles of operation. Replacements need not be considered unless noticeable
up arld down flyrvheel mainshaft play is evident.
Con-rod Big-end Be.aring and Fl5rwheel Sepa,ration-Flywheels are a
plain taper fit on the crank pin. After one crank pin nut is removed
flyuvheels can easily be separated by placing a large wedge or chisel
betr,veen the flywheels in the vicinity of the crank pin, striking sharp blow
with hammer. No roller cag'e is used. When reassembling, rollers are best
located by smearing crank pin with thick grease. F or con-rod big-end
servicing data, refer to Section one of Chapter Sixteen. Note-that the
crankpin is not drilled as on most motors. There is no direct oil feed to
the big-end. This receives lubrication from oil drainage from the cylinder
wall oil feed.
IGNITION TIMING 329
l Big-end bearing attention is recommended when there is perceptible

up and down clearance in the bearing. In most instances, it is more
I satisfactory to replace the complete big-end assembly. No honing is
necessary when the standard factory big-end assembly is fitted, as there
is a slight allowance made for the contraction of the big-end race on
insertion in the rod.
Crankcase Rea,ssembling-This is quite straight forward. Be sure to
coat the crankcase joint surface with gasket goo or a good quality gasket
shellac before assembling.
Section 4
IGNITIOI\I TIMING
250 c.c. and 350 c.c. Coil Ignition Timing-1948 a,nd Earlier
1. Clean and set breaker points .018" gap.
2. Free cam from shaft by slackening securing serew, locating end of
a corner screwdriver behind cam and striking a sharp blow with hammer.
3. Clean camshaft and cam tapers. Refit cam to shaft.
4. Turn motor in direction of rotation. This is best done via the rear
wheel with high gear engaged, until piston is a/s" before top of compression
stroke (350 c.c. models), (al/tz" 250 c.c. models).
5. Advance ignition control fully.
6. Revolve eam on shaft in direction of running rotation until points
just commenee to separate. Locate cam in this position by sharp tap with
hammer and drift. Tighten cam centre screw.
250 c.c. Coil lgnition Timing-1949-L952

These models have Lucas automatic advance type ignition and.
timing is simply aljusted by slackening the clamp screw at base of
breaker assembly and revolving breaker assembly head against cam
rotation to advance timing or with cam rotation to retard. Breaker
points should be first set to .072" frtlLy open gap and timing set so
breaker points just corrunence to separate wilh piston at top of
compression stroke. Advance setting can be checked by revolving cam
in direction of rotation as far as mechanism allows and noting points
separate with piston approvimateTy,rAr" before top of stroke.
Magneto Timing
500 c.c. anil600 c.c. Models with Hantllebar Advance Control
2. X'ree magneto gear from shaft taper.
3. Set piston /g" before top of compression stroke.
4. Advance spark control.
5. Revolve magneto armature in running direction until breaker points
just commence to separate. X"ix the magneto gear to armature shaft taper
in this position by placing an old piston pin or box spanner over shaft end
and stdking a sharp rap with hammer and tighten nut.
Iiming Magneto Equipped with Automatic Advance

2. Turn motor in running direction until piston is 51,, before top of
compression stroke, 500 c.c, and 600 c.c. models; Va" 350 c.c. models.
3. Block the advance mechanism in the advance position.

4. Turn magneto armature via contact breaker end in running
direction untii the breaker points just commence to separate.
5. Using a tube spacer or box wrench that wiII fit over nut, .,fix,,
the gear on to shaft taper by a light tap with hammer.
6. Tighten up armature shaft nut, for final tightening give wrench a
light tap with hammer.
Genera,tor Chain Adjustment-On some b00 c.c. and 600 c.c. models,
generator is driven from magneto by duplex chain. Adjustment is effected
by rotating the generator. As the armature shaft is mounted eccentric
to the body, chain can either be slackened or tightened by direction of
rotation. Be sure to tighten generator bracket clamp bolts securely.
Section 5
GEAR.BOXES, CI,UTCHES AND CHAINS

Burman gearboxes and clutches have been used on Panther machines
for many years. F or complete servicing data, refer to Sections Nine and
Ten of Chapter Sixteen.
Gearbox Lutrrication-A semi-liquid grease is used on all 3 speed
gearboxes and 4 speed types to 1948. Castrolease light is recommended
for cold weather operation and castroiease medium for sumi:rer use,
,Addition of about 1z: lb. of g'rease every 3000-4000 miles is usually
sufficient. tr'or operation in belorv freezing temperature, it is recommended
that 1/+-7/z pint of S.A.E. No. 10 oil be added to thin grease. On 1949 and
later 4 speed gearboxes, motor oil is used, same grade as for motor
according to temperature. Correct oil Ievel is to bottom of kickstarter shaft.
Gearbox and Clutch Troubl+250 c.c. antl 350 c.c, Models-A
considerable amount of clutch trouble is experienced on these machines
due to the clutch capacity being inadequate. The small dlameter three-plate
clutch fitted has insufficient load capacity, particularly for the 350 c.c.
rnotor. Where clutch slip occurs on starting or accelerating that cannot
be overcome by tightening the springs up to the maximum arnount that
will sti1l permit satisfactory releasing of clutch, some improvement can
be effected by running the oil bath chain case dry and just applying oi1
to the chain occasionatly with an oil can or lubricating chain rviih grease.
Ijnder modera+-e service conditions, fitting a new set of clutch plates and
springs may overcome trouble. This trouble does not apply to 191g and
later 250 c.c. and 350 c.c. models with 4-speed gearbox and 4-plate clutch.
Clutch Sp,ring Adjustment-C1utch springs should be adjusted
individually so that clutch outer plate throws off evenly when clutch is
released. Spring nuts should be tightened at least flush with spring stucis
or if clutch siip has been experienced, tighten as far as possible consistent
with satisfaclory releasing of clutch.
Clutch Control Adjustment-AU 250 c.c. anil 350 c.c. Models to 1948-
Clutch pushrod adjustment is located in centre of outer clutch plate. Stacken
nut and turn in screw,to take up slack or turn out to give more slack. A
minimum of %0" clutch cable stack at lever should be maintained. Note-
that adjustment should be effected at this point rather than on the
control cable adjustment. Control cable adjustment is intended. primarily
to obtain the best operating angle for the control lever, although it can
be used to take up a small amount of slack in clutch. If used to take up
a gr:eat deal of slack operating angle of lever may not be correct,
GEARBOX CLUTCHES AND CHAINS Q91
Clutch Control iAdjustment-s00 and 600 c.c. models, 1938-1952 a,nif

LS4S-1952 350 c.c. Mo els-A small amount of adjustment can be effected
by the control cable adjuster in the gearbox case at the lower end of cable.
Screwing this out will take up siack and screwing in will provide more
slack, When more adjustment than provided on the cable adjuster is
necessary, screw the cable adjuster back in and take up the whole slack
except for the tha" cable slack necessary, with the lever mounting pivot
adjustment. Proceed as follows-Remove the two screws that secure the
small cap on the gearbox end cover. Rotate this cap anti-clockwise to take
up slack and clockwise to increase cable slack. Refit screws, tighten up
and check adjustment. See I1l. 39, page 742.
250 c.c. antl 350 c.c. 1939-1948 Foot Gear Change Trouble-These
models, fitted with the lightweight Burman, 3 and 4 speed gearboxes,
respectively, give a considerable amount of trouble with the foot change
mechanism. The servicing of this mechanism is dealt with in Section Ten
of Chapter Sixteen.
Common cause of trouble is breakage of the ratchet pawl spring'and
wear on the ratchet pawl and foot change quadrant. Replacement of
these parts will usually overcome most foot change trouble; however, it
should be noted that in some instances it is necessary to bend the ends
of the ratchet pawl spring slightiy or bend the ratchet pawl stop peg
located in the gearbox inner cover or bend the pin in the ratchet pawl
that the spring engages with, to enable the ratchet pawl to engage satis-
factorily with the foot change quadrant teeth in both directions of operation.
The adjustment required can usually be determined by examination of
the erigagement of the ratchet, when the foot chang'e is operated with
the foot change cover removed. It is important to note that the ratchet
pawl spring stop peg in gear cover separates the spring ends and that the
peg in the ratchet pawl engages between these two ends.
Front Chain Attrjustment-1948 and Earlier 250-350 €.c. Moalels-
A "cam" adjustment is provided. To adjust chain, slaeken nut on top and
bottom gearbox to frame bolts. Apply wrench to squared end of top
spindle bolt and turn to give required adjustment of 3/stt slack at tightest
point in chain mid-way between sprockets. Retighten top and bottom
spindle bolt nuts securely.
Front Chain Atljustrnent-1949-a952 250-350 c.c. Models-Slacken
bottom pivot bolt nut and top gearbox frame bolt nuts, slacken adjusting
screw locknuts at top of g:earbox. To tighten chain slacken rear adjusting
screw and tighten front screw. To slacken reverse operation. Einatly
tighten in adjuster screws, tighten lock nuts and top and bottom gearbox
to frame bolt nuts.
Front Ch,a,in Adjustment-500 c.c. and 600 o,c. Models-Slacken the
gearbox top pivot bolt and the bottom frame bolt. To tighten chain, slacken
front adjusting screw and tighten rear adjusting'screw at base of gearbox.
To slacken chain, slacken rear adjusting screw and tighten front adjusting
screw. Tighten both locknuts and be sure to retighten top and bottom
bolts securely.
Panther Rear Chain ,A{iustment-This is effected by cams keyed to
the axle and engaging with a peg: on the inside of each rear frarrre fork.
Slacken axle nuts and turn axle by fitting a wrench to the flats on end. of
axle. It is important that foot be placed up against rear tire or pressure
exerted from the rear against wheel so that cams maintain contact with
fork pegs. Chain can be tightened or slackened by direction of rotation of
axle shaft. When V+" slaek is obtained tighten axle nuts securely.
Section 6
tr.ORKS, TB,AME AND WIIEELS

Dowty Oleomatic X'orks-1941-L952 Models
Air Pressure Adjustment-Air supply should be maintained so that
the red dot on lower fork legs is just revealed below the lowe! edge of leg
dust cover. This adjustment should be checked with the rider seated on the
machine. The simplest method to adjust is to over-inflate the forks slightly
then sit on the machine and release a small amount of air at a time until
the correct level is obtained. Be sure to replace the valve cap and tighten
securely. ff passenger is being carried, it is recommended that passenger
should also be mounted on machine when adjustment is being made.
Fork Inflation Valve-This is a special valve and should, not be
replaced with an ordinary tire valve. Ttre correct type of valve should be
obtained when replacement is necessary.
Oll Level-Addition to oil supply w'ill not likely be necessary in under
3000-4000 miles of operation unless there is noticeable oil leakage. Arr
S.A.E. 20 or 30 grade oil should be used for sumrner operation and S.A.E.
10 for operation in below freezing temperatures. To top up oil leve1,
proceed as follows:
1. Depress inflation valve to release air from forks.
2. Place a block under the crankcase at sufficient height so that the
lower fork leg:s are 1" from the fully up or closed position.
3. Remove the large hexagon filler plug from the top of eaeh fork leg.
4. X'ill each leg with oil of grade as recommended above. Refit and
tighten filler plug seeurely.
5. Remove block from under motor and depress the inflation valve,
allowing surplus oil to drain off, and the forks to close up completely.
6. Pump air into forks to give the correct level adjustment and replace
valve cap.
Steering Head Bearing Adjustment Oleomatio Forks-The proeedure
differs slightly from the earlier tlpe forks and it is important that the
steps listed below should, be followed.
1. Slacken steering head stem pinch bolt under handlebars,
2. Slacken each fork leg pinch bolt located in fork stem lower lug.
3. Tighten steering stem top nut with moderate pressure, then back
off one-tenth turn.
4. Retighten steering stem pinch bolt and each fork teg pinch bolt in
Iower fork lug.
Oleomatic Fork Leg Servicing

It will
not normally be necessary to dismantle legs for servicing unless
to repair accident damage or to correct air leakage trouble. Rapid loss of
air from forks, making it necessary to ad6 air more often than twice
weekly, is usually caused by one or more defective rubber seals. The rubber
seals which may be responsible for the air loss can be seen ln illustration
No. 135, identified by Nos. L4, 12, 8 and the rubber seal on the filler plug
IU, 135
PANTHER, DOWTY OI;EOMATIO

F{)BKS (p&rt Eectloneil)
The above part sectioned illustration of

the Dowty Oleomatic tr'orks fitted to
250 c.c. and 350 c.c. Panther moilels
reveals construction and assembly de-
tails. Reference should. be made to the
seryieing data in this section for ln-
formation on servicing procedure.
1. Pressre Ba,Ian@ Plpo
2. Top I'ork Crom Lug.
3. Iag tr'iller Plu8i
4. Ftller Plug Oil Sea,l.
5. Inflatlon !-alvo &nd Cap
6. Inflal,im Valve Sea,l Washer
t. IntenEl trttting (conrected to ln-
tema,l fitting in other leA by No. 1)
8. Bubber Sea:l for Top Intem&l Flt-
ting
9. Buffer Carryhg Tubo
10. Onter Tube
11. Piston SeaI Retafulng Ring
12. Rubber Sea,l m Plston
13. Pistm .--'
14. Pigfm-trower Rubber S€l (Etatic)
-- a6i--Inner Slialtn8 Tubes (lower loril los)
16. Rubber Cushlon Btr fer
1?. Cushion LochnEt
18. Lower Bearrng
19. Rubber Rtng I-catitrg ScnD€r
20. Bubber Scmper Bing
21. Out€r Tube Lower Enal Coyer
22. tr'ork fag Pinch Bolt
23. Fork Stem Lower Lug Assembly
24, St€rha St€m PiEch BoIt at RE
of Top Lug (not Ehom)
25. Dashpot Cushion (not u8€d on 260
c.o. mil 350 c.o. models)
JDA PANTHER SERVICING
cap screw No. 4. One or more of these seals can be responsible for loss of
air pressure. It should be noted that the lower rubber seals, Nos. 1g and 20,
prevent the entrance of dirt or water into the forks and do not retain
the air supply.
Fork Leg Dismantling-Proceed as follows:
1. Remove wheel and mud guard.
2. Slacken lower fork leg pinch bolt (No. 22) seeuring leg which is to
be dismantled.
3, Remove fork leg filler cap screw (B).
4. Wedge a screwdriver in the split of the lower fork lug in the
vicinity of pinch bolt which will release lug from gripping tube.
5. Grasp the outer tube with both hands and rotate back and forth
and pull downwards until the brass ring on the outer tube is clear of the
fork lower lug. If it is not possible to get outer tube to free, it can be
carefully gripped with a pipe wrench or large pater pump pliers and
worked back and forth. Extreme care should be taken, however, to grip
at least five inches below the lower fork stem lug; this will be below the
range of travel of piston and a slight denting of outer tube will not affect
operation as if higher up within range of piston travel. An outer tube
which is noticeably dented within range of piston travel is likely to cause
serious troubie and should be replaced.
6. Outer tube can now be lowered as required and by pushing the
lower leg inner tube upwards, the piston (No. 18) will be exposed. fhe
piston (No. 13) can be screwed from the inner tube (No. 15) with a special
peg spanner. If this is not available, water pump type pliers can be used.
7. After unscrewing the piston, the inner and outer tubes ean now
be withdrawn together and the outer tube drawn off the inner tube.
8. The complete piston (No. 13) can be removed by removal of the
locknut and rubber cushion. Care should be taken not to bend the tube
(No. 9) when undoing the bottom nut.
9. On the 250 c.c. and 850 c.c. models, the piston seal rubber (No. 12)
can be removed by '. On the 600 c.c.
model the two halves of the "mintex,, bearings are
10. Cleaning Parts-ft is recommended that parts be washed. in
kerosene and extreme care taken to make sure that all parts, including
inside of tubes, are completely free from all grit.
11. Replacement of Rubber Sea,I Rings-If air leakage has occurred it
is advisable to replace all of the rubber sealing dngs (Nos. 8, 12 and 14),
also the rubber seal ring located on the top filler plug cap screw (No. 4).
The above dismantling procedure leaves the steering head, the top
internal fitting and balance pipe unit undisturbed. If it is desired to
dismantle further, the remaining fork leg, if one only has been removed,
can be dismantled by following the procedure listed above. Removal of the
steering stem top nut and slackening of the stem pinch bolt will enable
the top lug together with the internal fittings and balance pipe assembly
to be removed. Care should be taken not to lose the balls from head
bearing races. The internal fitting balance pipe and tube assembly can be
removed from the top lug by careful tapping out. Use a soft drift and
alternate from one side to the other.
EORKS, F'RAME: AND WHEEILS 835
Befitting Fork Legs

If the legs only have been removed, reassembly is quite straight
forward and it is just the reverse of dismantling. The nrbber sealing rings
should be greased and care should be taken not to damage when
assembling. The fork lower leg pinch bolt should not be retightened until
block is removed from under motor a"rrd load on front wheel. E'orks
should be refilled with oil as already described.
Completo Fork Removal

If it is desired to remove the complete fork assembly, it is only
necessary after removal of the front wheel and front mudguard to remove
the top steering stem nuts, slacken the pinch bolt and remove the fork
leg top filler plug eap screws, handlebar and headlight. Tap up under
the fork top lug in the vicinity of fork legs alternating from one side to
the other until the top lug can be with drawn. Then with block under
motor, the forks can be lowered away. Care should be taken to avoid
loss of steering race balls. Care should also be taken to stand forks
upright or replace filler plugs, otherwise oil may be lost from fork legs.
Befitting Complete Fork Assembly

To fit a completely assembled Dowty Oleomatic forks, proceed as
follows.
1. Remove steering stem top nut, slaeken pinch bolt, remove filler
plugs cap serews at top of each leg and tap under Iug in vicinity of
each leg alternating from one side to the other until top lug becomes free.
2. Smear lower fork stem bearing race with grease and top frame
bearing lug with grease. Locate bearing balls. It is most important that
there be a siight clearance between balls and if in doubt it is better to
fit one ball too few rather than one too rlany.
3. Enter fork stem into frame lug and slip down top lug. Tap lightly.
Fit top stem nut and fork leg filler plug cap screws and tighten
progressively with moderate pressure. Fit front wheel and remove block
from und.er motor so weight comes on front wheel.
4. Slacken fork lower lug leg pinch bolts (No. 22) then finally tighten
filler plug cap screw (No. 3). Avoid excessive pressure; 50 foot-pounds is
sufficient.
5. Tighten steering: stem top nut fully with moderate pressure, then
back off one-tenth turn.
6. Tighten steering stem top lug pinch bolt and lower lug pinch bolts.
Front Iitrheel B,emoval and Refitting (Oleomatic Forks)

After placing block under crankcase and disconnecting front brake
cable, slacken the nuts securing axle cap on the brake drum side. Screw
back the axle nut about two turns, then remove'both axle caps and wheel
can be lowered-
When refitting wheel, tighten up nuts finger tight. Tighten the axle
nut on the brake drum side, moderately. Next tighten the axle cap nuts
PANTHER SERVICING
on this side. Remove block from under crankcase and lift up aJxd. down on
handlebars to operate forks a few times. Then tighten the left axle cap
nuts and both axle nuts.
Front Forks (1946 a,nd Earlier Models)

Steering Head Bearings-Pitted steering head bearing races are
common cause of poor steering on 250 c.c. and 350 c.c. models. This
condition is usually a result of operation in a loose condition. Head bearing
adjustment should be checked every 5000 miles or oftener. Elxcessive play
can be detected. by mounting motor on a block and lifting on forks or by
just applying front brake and rocking machine back and forth while
holding hand on top of steering head and front fork stem top cone, when
any movement ean be easily detected. To adjust, slacken pinch bolt,
tighten top nut, then slacken approximately one-tenth turn a.nd retighten
pinch bolt.
Head races can be easily removed when necessary for replacement
with a length of steel rod or offset punch. New races should be pressed
right down into position. Ilammer and a block of hardwood will handle
this effectively.
Fork Spindle .Adjustment-To reduce fork spindle link side clearance
slacken spindle locknuts and turn squared end out (anti-elockwise). To
increase side clearance turn spindle in (clockwise). Be sure to retighten
Iocknuts. One washer on each spindle must tre free to be revoh'ed with
fingers. Tightening locknuts reduces end clearance, so allow for this when
adjusting and if clearance is completely taken up after locknuts are
tightened, spindle wiil have to be screwed in further.
VVheel Bearings
250 antl 350 c.c. Morlels-1940 a,nd Earlier Models-Cup and cone,
uncaged ball bearings are employed with adjusting cone. Note thal a
lock washer keyed to axle is located between the adjusting cone and cone
locknut.
Replacement of cups and cones may be necessary at around 20,000
milesin rear hub. Note cups are a press fit in hub and can be easi\r
knocked out with a length of rod or a punch. Bearing cups should be
smeared with thick grease or fibrous wheel bearing grease, to hold balls
in place when assembiing. Avoid overtightening, tighten cone with
moderate pressure then back off r/+ turr: and tighten locknut.
500 antl 600 c.c. Models antl 1946 and Later 250 and 350 c.e, Ilodels-
Non-adjustable journal type ball bearings are fitted to front and rear hubs.
No attention or replacements will likely be necessary in under 40,000 miles.
When r/s" play, measured at wheel rim, develolrs, need for bearing
replacement is indicated. When installing these bearings into hub, note
that pressure is applied to the outer races only.
Wheel Bearing Lubrication-Oil cups are fitted as standard and a few
drops of oil should be given at 500-mile lubrication intervals. When hubs
are dismantled, as an alternative method of lubrication, hubs may be
packed abottt 2/s full of fibrous wheel bearing grease which wiil permit
operation of 10,000-15,000 miles without any additional lubrication whatever.
Front Wheel Drive Speedometer Gear on Ilub-Note that this is
screwed onto hub on left-hand thread.
l
l
CHAEII,ffi, TM{
ROY AL ETVFIELD SERV ICfi,{G
Note-Ttris chapter covers servicing applying especially to Royal

Elnfield machines. E or info,rmation on operating refer to Chapter Three.
Refer to Chapter Eour for general maintenance data. Complete overhaul
procedure applying to English models generally and the servicing of units
such as carburetor, magneto, generator and electrical system, is covered
in Chapter Sixteen.
Section I
Lt]BRICATION
Grades of Engine Oil
Grades of Motor Oll-tr'or recommended oil grades for varying tem-
peratureo refer to lubrication section of Chapter E our, "Maintenance,"
pa,ge 126.
Royal Enfteld Motor Lubrica,tion-1934-1952 S.V. and O.H.V. models
have dry sump lubrication. Oil supply is contained in the crankcase com-
partment surrounding the separate flyvrheel chamber, Two pumps are
employed; the feed pump driven from the rear end of drive spindle and
the returh pump at the front end of oil pump drive spindle, located in
timing gear cover. There is no supply adjustment and no pressure indicator.
Oil circulation can be ascertained by removal of sump filler cap, when
return oil flow to sump should be evident when motor is running, indicating
oiling system is functioning.
Oil Changing-On the earlier models without aircleaner or oil filter,
oil should be changed at 500-mi1e intervals or oftener under conditions of
extreme dust or extreme cold weather. On the later model machines
equipped with carburetor aircleaner and oil filter, oil changing at 1000-
1500-mile intervals is sufficient during summer operation. It is important,
however, to change oil more often if machine is operated on short nrns in
freezing temperatures. The rear crankoase drain plug (c) in illwtration
136 drains the main crankcase oil supply. The front drain plug (g) drains
the flylvheel chamber.
Timtng Cover Oil Drain Plug (d)-When oil is being changed, this
plug can be removed and machine leaned well over to the right which will
enable the one-half pint of oil normally contained in the timing cover to
be drained. ft should be noted that after refilling sump, the oil level will
drop somewhat as a result of replenishing the timing g:ear supply, after
a short period of operation. Normal oil level is about 2" below filler cap
and if filled within 1" of cap after draining timing cover, this extra supply
of oil will take care of that required to replenish timing gear supply.
338 ROYAL ENT'IELD SERVICING
Ill. 136
ROYAIJ ENTIELD LUBR,ICATION
SYSTEM
(A) is the oil supply compartment which
surrounds flywheel chamber. (B) is otl
feed pump which draws oi1 from compart-
ment (A) and pumps to rear of cylinder
w€Il and con-rod big-end bearing via filter
(E) and feed ptug (D). (F') is retun
pump which draws oil from bottom ol fly-
wheel chamber and returns oil to crank-
case compartment via a balt check valve
at (iI). This ball check valve alto\is sufft-
cient pressure to build up to force oil via
line to eylinder head rocker box. Surplus
oil in -timjng case is picked up by gears
{tl. and Jr and delivered through opening
(L) to oi1 compartment (A).
When draining oil after long operatlon un-
der dusty conditions there is some danger
of oilways at bottom of crankcase becdm_
ing obstructed with sludge. This can usu-
,ally be- clearcd, however, by draining when
hot and flushing,
Ill! 1BZ (Risht)

. OIT, R,PTUR.N BAI,L CHECK VAL}'I
This illustration shows the ball check valve located at the
end of oil return passageway whictt is visible when oil filter
cap is aemoved. This ball check valve causes a pressure to
be built up to force oil to reker box. The funatloninE of
oiling system ls best cheeked by remova"l of the filler-cap
and observing that oil returns when motor is runntng.
Ill. 138
R,OYAL E\FfELD OIL FILTEIi
ASSE}IBLY
This illustration shows the assembly of
the oil filter. This should be removed at
oil change intervals and thoroughly washed
in gasoiine or kerosene. Care should be
taken that parts are refitted in the orde!
shown, After about 5000 miles of opera-
tion it is advisable to replace the oit filter
elemeni.
LUBRICATION 339
Cork Sea,l-Crankshaft Oil Feed-The main oil feed from oil pump to
crankshaft is via the timing cover plug "D" Ill. No. 136; to avoid loss of
pressure due to oil leakage between nozzle on plug "D" and right flywheel
shaft oilway, a cork is fitted bearing against plug "D" and end of flywheel
shaft. Care should be taken not to loose this cork when plug "D" is
removed. When overhauling replacement is often advisable. A bottle cork
of approx. Ve" dianl"reter at large end, cut to %" length and drilled 7re,,, will
serve if the original is not available.
Oil Pump Failure-Oil pump failure is most unusual. An obstruction

in the oil passag'eway between the feed pump and the oil suppty com-
partment ean occur; however, this is easily cleared with compressed air
if timing cover is removed, by applying air line to the oil hole in crank-
case timing eover joint surface and blow'ing through to oil compartment.
If trouble is not due to an obstructed passageway, it may be a stripped oit
pump drive worm which is in the form of a left hand threaded nut with
worm, on the end of right flywheel shaft, or stripped gear teeth on the oil
pump drive spindle. Faiiure of the pump to drive due to stripped teeth
can be readily ascertained by removal of one of, the pump end covers
secured with six screws. If there is no movement when motor is revolved,
gear trouble is almost certainly indicated and timing cover should be
removed and oil pump drive spindle and worm gear examined.
When oil pump end cover plates are removed operation of the plungers
can be observed. In rare instances breakage at plunger drive pe€l'occurs.
Note when refitting oil pump end covers that the coil spring-between
plunger block is fitted at each end; new gaskets should be fitted or
jointing eompound applied to old gaskets.
Motor Lubrication Two-Stroke Modbls l:Z5 c.c. R.E. antt pZ6 c.c. Model
A-Petroil lubrication is used on these motors. Oil is mixed with the
gasoline in the ratio of one-half pint per gallon. S.A.E. No. 40 or No. b0
grade oil should be used. Where possible, oil should be mixed in a separate
can before pouring into tank. ff this is not convenient, shut off gis tap
under tank, put in gasoline first and pour oil in slowly and rock machini
vigorously to mix gas and oil. Then push on gas tap.
Gearbox Lubrication-Engine oil is the correct lubricant for all Royal
Elnfield gearboxes, the same grade as used in eng:ine. Oil should be added
to the level of the filler plqg. rt is advisable to check this levet at 500-
mile intervals.
Front cha,incase oil Bath-s.A.E. No. 10 oil shourd be added to the
height of level plug.
Fl*nger Fork oil suppry-s,A.E. No. 20 grade oil is eorrect for sum-
mer operation. tr'or operation at below freezing temperatures, use s.A.E.
No. 10. unless there is evidence-of o,il leakage, it sllould be unnecessary
to add oil to forks in less than 5000 miles of operation. To add oil, remove
the s-mall hexagon cap nut at the top of each fork leg, add a smali amount
of oil to each leg. Then remove the small hexagon drain plugs ui botto*
of each leg, Removal of these plugs permits oii to be arain& out to the
coryect lev-el. Refit plugs, making'sure fibre washers are in g.ood condition
and that plugs are tightened securely. Refit top cap nuts.
340 ROYAL EINTTELD SERVICING
Section 2
CI,DTRANCB AND SEf,TTNGS
500 c.c.
ROYAL ENFTELD 725 e.c, 350 c.c. o.H.v.
antl Sottings
Clea,ranees 2-Stroke o.H.v. Twin
Piston Clearances
Pistons cam-ground (.006-.010" ca^m)
and skirts tapered.
Pistons in low expansion alloy-
solid skirt.
Bottom of skirt.......... .004" .003"
Top of skirt............... .006" .0054/2"
Lower ring lands..... .0L5"
2nd and top ring lands.............. .018"
125 c.c. piston (.004" cam)
Bottom of skirt......... .004"
Top of skirt............... .0054/2"
Top ring land......-......... .018"
2nd ring land................ .011"
Piston ring joint gap................. .010" .015" .012"
(Iight tap or hand push fit)
Piston pin in rod (reamed)....... niu - nfi7/^tt .001,/2" oo1."
Piston pin in rod (honed)......... .001/z-.007" .001" .001"
Standard cylinder bore mm....... 53.79 mm. 69.85 mm. 64 mm.
Standard cylinder bore inches... 2,725 2.750" 2.5787,/2"
Inlet valve tappet (motor cold)............ .002" .005"
Exhaust valve tappet (motor cold)...... .004" .005"
Inlet valve stem in guide......................... .003" .002"
Exhaust valve stem -in guide.................. .005" .004"
Valve seat an91e.............. 45 Deg. 45 Deg.
Ignition advance (on pistons). 9t -r, T.D.C. Ret.
Breaker point gap (mâgnetoj.... .015" .072" .072"
spark plug point gap...... .020" .018" .018"
Con-rod big-end clearance...... .001/2_.001,, .001" .001"
Con-rod side clearance.............................. .005 -.015,, .005-.015" .005-.015"
Valve Tirning
Inlet valve opens before T.D.C................ 30 Deg. 30 Deg.
fnlet valve closes after 8.D.C........._. _...... 60 Deg. 60 Deg.
Exhaust valve opens before B.D.C.......... 75 De.g. 75 Deg.
Exhaust valve cl-oses after T.D.C..-........ 35 Deg. 35 Deg.
Carbrrretor Settings
Carburetor bore si2e....... aUBt' L6/te"
Main jet size (with aircleaner)... 90 130 140
Th"ottle valve number.............................. 5 6/4 6/3
Needle jet si2e.......... .1065 .1065 .109
500 c.c. O.H.V. Model'J" Clearanco Specifications-These are similar

to the 350 c,c. model "G" specifications listed above except cylinder bore
size is 84 mm. (3.307") and piston skirt clearance is .001,, greater than
listed above. Carburetor jet size 150 on 1" bore type and 170 on 1-14e,, units.
MOTOR SERVICING 341
Section 3
MOTOR SEEVICING
(a,) L25 c.e. 2 Stroke Motor
Note-The seryicing procedure on this motor is very similar to that
on the Villiers 725 c.c. engine and gear unit and reference should be made
to Chapter Seventeen-Villiers 2-stroke eng:ines. Much of the data in this
ehapter will be found applicable to the Royal Enfield 125 c.c. unit.
. 125 c.c. Engine Servicing Eequirements-A top overhaul covering
replacement of piston rings if required and removal of carbon, particularly
from the exhaust port and muffler, is beneficial at around 3000-mile
intervals. Power loss not due to carburation or ignition trouble is invariably
caused by excessive carbon deposits in exhaust ports and muffler or a
worn piston, piston ring and cylinder condition.
Piston Rings-These should be repla,ced if gap exceeds .030". When
fitting new rings to old pistons, be sure to get all carbon scraped out of
bottom of piston grooves. File new ring joints to give .010" gap in
cylinder. Check ring gap in the lower un-worn end.
Piston-Piston should be checked for clearance in cylinder,
Replacement of piston is recommended when skirt clearance on thrust
face is in excess of .006" bottom of skirt, .008" top of skirt and if ring:s
have .007" or more side play in grooves. In the event that piston requires
replaeement, cylinder, of course, should be examined for wear. Normally
if piston is in sound condition rebore and fitting oversize piston is not
necessary until about .008" wear has developed in cylinder. I{owever, if
piston is to be replaced due to failure of this part, to obtain full benefit
from new piston, reboring or honing of eylinder is recommended if wear
exceeds .004".
Crankcase Dismantling-The right side flylvheet must first be removed.
The manufacturer's special pulier that threads on to the fl5rwheel hub
should be used if available, otherwise care must be taken to avoid damage
to the crankshaft end. If attempting to "drift" crankshaft free from
flywheel taper, slacken nut about two turns a:rd use tube spacer over
shaft end bearing against nut.
Clutch and Primary I)rive-Require dismantlirlg for crankease
servicing. On the 1950 and earlier models with cluteh on gearbox main-
shaft, eiutch is simply dismantled by unscrewing ciutch spring screws.
On the 1951-1952 models with engine shaft clutch, clutch springs must first
be compressed and pressure plate circlip removed. Clutch hub is a taper
fit on shaft ahd best removed with an extractor if available.
Crankca,se Separa,tion-If cr.ankcases do not separate readily heat to
boiling water temperature and lower drive shaft to bench top from height
of about 6", make sure all securing nuts are removed.
Con-rod Big-end Bearing-The crankshaft halves are a press fit on
the plain crankpin ends. The best method to separate without special
equipment is to secure one crankshaft half in vise, clamping opposite to
the counter weight, then use a hammer and a soft metal drift and apply
a few blows, alternating on each extremity of the other counter weight.
A wedge can gradually be driven between the counter weights and in this
manner one counter weight withdrawn from crankpin. If a press and
suitable blocks are available, crankpin can be pressed out, supporting
342 ROYAL ENFIE]LD SERVICING
the uppermost counter weight. It should be noted that the crankpin is

shouldered and therefore t[e lower counter weight must be allowed to
come away with the crankpin'
If wear is only slight, replacement of rollers a"nd crankpin may take
up excessive big-end clearanie. lf not, con-rod should also be replaced.
Niote steel washer is fitted onto each end of cra.nkpin before pressing into
crankshaft haJves.
Cranksha,ft Main Bea,rings-The ball bearings and bushes in each
crankcase half are easily repliced if necessary by warming: crankcase and
tapping out.
Reassembling cra,nkcase,s-crankcase and gearcase joint surfaces
should be coated witi jointing compound.
(b) 350 anil 500 c.c. O.H.V. Single Motors

TOP OVERIIAUL DISMANTLING
This is norrnally required. at intervals of 5000-15,000 miles, dependent
on service conditions and whether model is equipped with air cleaner and
oil filter. on models rvith the latter equipment, properly serviced:, need for
top overhaul is less frequent. Generally need for overhaul is indicated by
inirease in engine noise, loss of compression and reduced performance.
Dismantling Procedure-Gas tank should be first removed followed by
rocker cover, cirburetor, exhaust pipe. Removal of the four cylinder head
stud nuts will enable cylinder head to be lifted off. To remove cylinder,
note that besides the four exposed cylinder base nuts there is a base nut
on the right side, accessible when the tappet adiustment cover is removed.
After top overhaul dismantling is completed, crankcase and oil sump
shouid be flushed out with kerosene and the two drain plugs removed to
drain. Unless there is perceptible straight up and down play in the- con-rod
big-end bearing or noticeJble up and down play in either of the main
beirings, no further dismantling need be undertaken.
MOTOE PABTS EXA}IINATION AND REFLACEMENTS

Piston Rings-Remove top ring from piston and check for gap rvhen
squared up ln t-ne lower end oi trre cytinaer. If gap is less than .040"
refit
u"a Oo noi disturb other rings. If in exeess of this amount, it is advisal:Ie
to replace the complete ring set. It is important to scrape all carbon from
bott&n of piston ring grooves. A broken section of o1d piston ring is
useful for tfri. 5ot. NJw rings should be checked for gap, placing squarely
in the lower unworn end oicylinders. Eile joints as necessary to provide
aminimumof.015"gap350c.c.modelsanil'018"gap500c'c'models'
Make sure that all has been removed from ring gTooves, and that
piston rings seat down"ait,6r,
fully into grooves.
Piston-standard clearances on 350 c.c. model are '004" bottom of
skirt, .006" top of skirt, and on 500 c.c. model '005" bottom of skirt, '007"
top of skirt. Piston replacement is recomme_nded when clearance is .002"-
.0tig,, in excess of standard clearances or when ring grooves are worn to
g:ive rings in excess of .007" side clearance'
cylinder Reboring-This is reeommended when cylinder bore wear at
top eia of ring trav6l exceeds .008". In instances where piston is being
reilaced due tJpiston failure, it may be. advisable to rebore even with less
we'ar to obtain iull benefit from new piston. In such cases, if wear is in
excess of .004,,, rebore and fitting of oversize piston is recommended.
MOTOR SERVICING 343
Con-rod Big-entl Bearings-On 1939 and earlier models a double row

roller t3rpe bigrend bearing was used with two rows of la" diameter x .327"
long bearing rollers. In some cases, replacement of rollers only will prove
sufficien| however, if there is noticeable wear on crankpin or con-rod
big-end bearing race, these parts should be replaced. Con-rod big-end
race should be honed after insertion so that rod is free, gling .0A1/2"-.001"
clearance. 1940 and later models have plain type big-end bearing use a
floating type, white-metal coated bush. On either the roller or the plain
type big-ends, need for attention is indicated when noticeable straight up
and down play can be felt in rod bearing.
Va,lves-Wear on valve stem split cone taper end is common and
after long service split cones may push off past stem end shoulder. Valves
should be carefully examined for wear at this point and replaced when
notable wear at split cone taper shoulder end of stem is evident. Valves, of
course, should also be replaced when stem wear on guide bearing surface
exceeds .004", and when head refaces to a sharp edge.
Split Cones-Take care not to lose these as the unusual shape makes
only the original tlpe suitable as replacements. Note that any replacement
cones fitted have tapered bore to match stem taper.
Valve Springs-Inadequate valve spring pressure is a common cause
of poor performance. Replacement of springs on these models is advisable
on every top overhaul job.
Valve Guides-These are an ordinary press fit and can be removed and
new guides fitted with a double diameter drift.
Rocker Bearing,Caps-Rocker bearing caps are removable and when
very excessive rocker shaft bearing clearance has developed, may be
carefully ground on joint surfaces to reduce clearance. Rockers must be
quite free when cap nuts are fully tightened.
Irt. 139
IAPPET ADJI]ST}IENT
This should be done with motor cold.
Allow just perceptible shake in inlet (rear)
pushrod, approximately .002", and notice-
able shake in exhaust (front) rod, ap-
proximately.004,,.
l.;i'"0',',,,
TOP OVER,IIAUL REI\SSEi}IBLY

Make sure that piston pin retaining: circlips in piston are right down
- groves if piston
into has been removed, and that all parts are tiioroughly
cleaned and lubricated where necessary.
Cylinder Head Gasket-A plain copper head gasket is used, heating
old gasket to red heat and quenching in water will soften and improve
sealing quality if to be reused.
Pushrod Channel Gaskets-Note-that the special composition gaskets
fitted to the recesses in pushrod holes on top of cylinder block and on
344 ROYAL ENX'IELD SERVICING
rocker box oil drain channel (early models only) should be renewed with
the correct gaskets to ensure oil tightness at cylinder head to cylinder
joint. Later models do not have the left side oil drain channel in block
but have a tube screwed into head at each pushrod hole. Before fitting
gaskets onto these tubes, bevel the gasket lower edges with a file to ease
entry into cylinder block recessess.
Oyliuder Ba,se Ga,sket-Note-that there is a hole in base gasket
regis+-ering with the oil feed hole to the rear of the cylinder block.
Pushrods-Note-exhaust (front) pushrod has eollar on lower end on
which compression release lever operates. compression release cable should
be adjusted to altow at least 1Ae" free cable sla& when valve is fully closed.
R,OYAL ENFIELD CRANKCASE SEEVICING
Servicing data in Section one of Chapter Sixteen will be found generally
applicable. The following points should be noted.
The Timing Pidon Oil Pump Drive Worrn nut-Note this is left hand
thread. Turn clockwise to remove.
Cam Gear Timing Pinion-Twin marks on crankshaft gear mesh with
marks on exhaust cam wheel. Single mark on exhaust cam wheel meshes
with single mark on inlet cam wheel.
Valve Tappets a,nd Guides-If these have been removed, note that the
longer pair are the exhaus+-.
Con-rod Big-end-Crankpin is shouldered and a press fit into
flywheels. Best method of separating flylvheels is illustrated in chapter
Sixteen. 1939 and earlier models use two rows of t/a,, diameter x .827,,
longer rollers. 1940 and later models are fitted with a plain type big-end
bearing using' a fioating bush. This later type bearing gives a-very long
life unless oil shortage is experienced. New con-rod big-end steel races
should be honed out after installing to give .6gt1r"-.007,,bearing clearanee.
Note that driiled crankpin on plain bearing type is fitted into right
flyr,vheel first with oil feed hole towards flywheel mainshaft centre and
that thrust washer is fitted onto each pin end before fly'wheel is pressed on.
Mainshaft Be.arings-y4" diameter x .327,, Iong bearing rollers
retained in cages are used on both mainshafts. Do not overlook hardened
steel thrust washers fitting next to flywheels.
Engine Sprocket Remova,l and Refitting-Sprocket is a plain taper
fit on ieft crankshaft. ft is best. removed after nut is slackened by use of a
gear puller. After a moderate amount of pressure is applied, strike end
Ill. 1{0
TI}ID\IG GEAN. IIA.RIiS
Note tDat the two punch marks on the cran;{-
shaft timing gear regjster s.ith the correspond-
Lng marks on rhe exhaust ,front) cam "geargear.
Single punch mark on exhaust cam
should line up with similar mark on i-ntet
cam gear.
MOTOR SERVICING 345
of gear puller centre screw a sharp blov/ with hammer. When refitting
sprocket, make sure that taper in sprocket and on sha^ft are quite clean
and hammer tighten nut.
(c) 500 c.c. O.If.V. Twin Motor
Top Overhaul Disma,ntling-Remove gas line, two tank bolts and gas
tank, cylinder head frame stay, spark plugs, exhaust pipes with mufflers,
carburetor and manifold. Removal of the five sleeve nuts on eaeh cylinder
head enables heads and barrels to be removed.
Va.lves-Valve refacing and reseating should be done with electric
grinder equipment if available when no grinding in should be required.
Note that valve stem end caps are refitted on assembly.
Pushrods-Note there is a difference in the size of the pushrod end
cups and rods must be instailed with the large ends at the top.
Cylinder Baso Gaskets-ff making base gaskets note that two oil holes
are required in each gasket to register with oil passages to overhead
rockers.
Cylinder Head Gaskets-New copper asbestos g'askets should be fitted
and head nuts tightened down progressively in a diagonal pattern. Head
nuts should be retightened after the first 50 or 100 miles have been
covered.
Iappets--Tappets should be set with motor cold to .002" inlet and
.004" exhaust.
CRANI(CASEI SERVICING
Crankcase dismantling should not normaJly be necessary until upwards
of 20,000-30,000 miles have been covered and noticeable up and down
con-rod big-end or crankshaft main bearing clearance has developed.
After completion of top overhaul dismantling, primary drive must be
dismantled for gearbox removal. Note the endless primary chain should
be reirroved with engiae and clutch sprockets. Engine sprocket is a spline
fit on crankshaft and ciuteh sprocket can be removed after disma^ntling
clutch springs, etc., and removal of the large eirclip. Clutch hub is a spline
fit on mainshaft and nut is right hand thread. Removal of the back half
of chaincase and g'earbox securing bolts permits ,gearbox removal and
crankcase dismantling can be proceeded with. See notes under IlI. 141
re timing chain, etc.
Con-Rod Big-Entls-The alloy rods have split big-ends bearing directly
on the rod metal, no shells or lining are used. When perceptible con-rod
straight up and down play develops, rod joints should be carefully surfaced,
rubbing on emery cloth on a level surface. Nor-rnal rod clearance is .001",
when rods have been surfaced to reduce clearance it is permissible to fit
with just perceptible drag.
Crankshaft Oil-way-When crankshaft is removed for rod servicing
the centre oil-way should be cleaned out as this colleets sludge. This can
be cleaned by removal of the oil pressure release valve located in right
end. Be sure pressure release is refitted when assembling.
Main Bea,rings-A ball drive side and roller timing side bearing is
used and replacements are not normally necessary until perceptible up
and dowrr clearance can be felt at crankshaft ends. Heat cases to boiling
water temperature for outer race removal and refitting.
1
I
:
346 ROYAL ENF'IELD SERVICING
Ill. 141
5OO T1VIN TI\TII{G }IARIIS

The crankshaft and camshaft sprockets
are shown rvith marks corrcctly posi-
tioned for val\.e tining.
Note both camshaft sprocket securjng
bolts are left hand thread and the oil
pump drive s'orm securing crankshaft
sprocket is a left hand thread.
The timing chain tension is adjusted
by slackening the idler sprockel plate
nut and. revolving idler sptocket plate
to give approximately 1,i " slack mid-
way between front camshaft and
crankshaft sprocket. Retithten plate
nut securely.
Carnshaft Sprocket Removal-Sprockets are a taper fit on camshafts

and have two threaded holes to accommodate extractor bolts. Sprockets
can be removed without extractor by drifting camshaft ends with left
case removed. Crankshaft sprocket hub fits into tapered hole in crank-
shaft and can be removed by fitting a corner screw driver between sprocket
and crankcase and giving a light tap with hammer.
Section 4
IGNNION TIIIIING
Iu. 142
125 c,c, IIODEL BRE-r.IiER

POINT ASSE}IBLI
Note breaker poitt gap is .015', a:d
is varied by moyement of loitt
mounting plate after loeking sc:ew
is slackened.
rgnition Timing 125 c,c. Model-Breaker points should be first cleaned

and set .015" gap fully opened. Revolve motor in running direction and
note- breaker points should just commence to separate with piston
%2"-Trc" before top of stroke.
_ rf.it
plate
is necessary to adjust timing note first that the magneto cover
is positioned so that slots are centrar on securing studs. Slacken
IGNITION TIMING 347
cam centre screw, cam can be freed from taper by prying behind with
a corner screwdriver and striking screwdriver with hammer or by
threading a %e" B.S.F. boit into cam which will draw eam off taper.
Revolve motor in running direction until piston is %0" before top of stroke,
revolve cam on taper in its running direction until breaker points just
commence to separate, then fix cam to taper in this position by a light
rap with hammer, tighten securing screw securely and recheck timing.
Later model flyr,vheel magnetos do not have slotted holers in the cover
plate referred to above. Weak spark is often due to incorrect timing and
the iastructions listed above should be carefully followed.
1951-1952 models with flylvheel ,generator and coil ignition have same
point gap and timing as listed above for flywheel magneto.
trI. 143
ROYAI,-ENfIDLD
MAG}I-ETO DRI\rE
OIL SEAL ASSEMBLY
T'he illustration shows the
correct order of assembly of
ttre rather unusual type of
magneto drlve oil seal.
By courtesy of
,.Motorcycling,,
Ignition Tirning-350-500 c.c. Singles-It will often be found possible

to obtain approximateiy correct timing setting by removing one of the
magneto driving gears out of mesh and with piston set the required amount
before top of compression stroke (3/s" avetage setting), revolve mag. in
direction of rotation and stop when contact points just eommence to sep-
arate with spark control advanced; then remesh mag. driving gear. If
variation of a tooth either way wiII not give sufficiently close setting,
remove ma,gneto g'ear from taper and reset on taper. Note magneto gear
is threaded to aecommodate special puller screw. T'his can be made up
from 2,4" cold rolled steel, threaded on outside 26 T.P.I. and drilled 1%2"
for depth of approximately r1n", This threads into gear after armature nut
has been removed and will withdraw gear from taper. Alternatively a
corner screwdriver can be used. Pry behind g'ear ag:ainst inside timing
case and strike a sharp blow with hammer.
Ignition Tirning---500 Twin-Timing can be adjusted by slackening
the distributor base clamp screw and rotating'distributor head anti-elock-
wise to advance or clockwise to retard. Timing should be set so that
breaker points just separate with pistons at top of stroke. The autornatic
advance will provide the correet amount of advance, if in order. As
firing intervals are evenly spaced it does not matter which cam or cylinder
is used for timing. To ascertain high tension wires are correctly fitted
connect w-ire from distributor outlet registering with rotor, to cylinder
with both valves closed.
348 ROYAL ENEIELD SERVICING
Timing CoiI Ignition Models-It is only necessary to remove breaker

point cover, slacken cam centre securing screw, revolve cam in direction of
rotation so points just separate with piston required amount before top of
compression stroke with spark control advaneed; retighten cam screw-
Section 5
GEAB,BOXES, CLUTCHES AND CHAINS

Gearbox Lu,brication-Motor oil of the same grade being used in the
motor to suit the season is recommended lubricant. X'ill to level of filler
plug opening.
Left Ha,ntl Threads-Note the right side mainshaft nut which secures
mainshaft to bearing in gear'box end eover is a Ieft hand thread. The main
shaft nut on the clutch side, however, is an ordinary right hand thread.
Clutch Ifub Removal-Clutch hub is easily removed from mainshaft
taper by making up a puller from a piece of %,, steel plate. Drill three
holes spaced to match the clutch spring post thread holes. Tap a centre
hole a/2" 20 T.P.I. and fit a suitable boit. BoIt this assembly to the clutch
hub with three ciutch spring cap screws. Turn in centre screw to apply
pressure, then rap head of centre screw bolt with hammer, which wilt free
hub from taper. Note-to avoid possible damage to end of mainshaft
threads during this operation it is good. policy to leave the clutch hub
mainshaft nut fitted and just slacken off a few turns.
Clutch Hub RefittingLHammer tighten nut with a good fitting
socket if available or as an alternative a punch. Have high gear engaged
and rear brake applied during this operation. Lock nut to shafl by locating
a centre puneh at inside of nut and give sharp rap with hammer. )io
trouble wiII be experienced with clutch hub nut loosening if this procedure
is foliowed.
Clutch Plate Assernbly flfodels G anrl J-A fabric dlsc is rivetted to
both inside and outside of the clutch sprocket. Assembly of other plales
is as follows. Steel plate with the raised side out, cork inserted plate. plain
flat steel plate, cork insertecl plate, steel plate with raised side facing in,
cork inserted plate, shock absorber hub cover, spring post tube spacers.
outer steel plate, springs, spring cap and cap screws. Be sure that clutch
operating plunger is fitted before fitting outer steel p1ate.
Foot Change Neutral Selector Adjustment-An eccentric sleeve is
fitted on the neutral selector stop cap screw, adjustment can be effected
by slackening the cap screw and rotating eccentric sleeve to increase or.
decrease range of movement of neutral selector as required so that neutral
is obtained when selector lever is pressed from 4th, 3rd or 2nd gear.
Gear Lever Control Rotl Atljustment-l25 c.c. and Earlier Hand
Change Models-If trouble is experienced with gear lever striking gate
before either low gear or high gear is engaged, adjustment should be
effected by shortening or lengthening the rod by means of the f-hreaded
adjuster so that gear lever is moved. back slightly from end of gate which
lever strikes before gear is engaged.
Clutch Control Adjustment-A set screw and locknut are located in
clutch operating arm on gearbox. 1/rc" cable slack should be maintained.
Late models have this adjustment located in a plunger that fits inside of
GEARBOXES, CLTITCHES AND CHAINS 349
1 A'JUSTSR PTA
fILE LIGHTLY A'

THESE POINIS IT
MORE MOVEMENT
IS REQUIREO
Irl. 144_LAYOUT OT' IOOTCILA,NGE PARIS

T'his lllustratlon shows the pilts layout of the 35O and 500 c.c. type footchange assembly.
Note a slight range of adjustment is provided by the slotted holes in the adjuster plate.
Slackening plate seeuring studs enables this plate to be rotated slightly either way. wheE
rmge of movement proves lnsufficient it can be extended by filing the stop plate at the
{ Inlnts shown.
In. 145-350-50$ c.c. SINGI-E GEIIRBOI( CEOSS-SECTION

This illustration shows the layout of gearbox and clutch parts. Note that steel clutch plate
Bext to sprocket is fitted wlth raised side facing out, flat steel plate is in centre and outside
steel plate fits with raised sids facinS in.
E7llen assembllng geartlox note that high Sear dog is instaued as shown with large end
to right side.
Gearlrox Enal Cover R€moyal-After removal of the fmtchange and kickstarter pedals,
disconnecting clutch control and removing 4 screws, outer coyer can tle remoyed. To
remove innff cqrer remove right side mainshaft nut (left-hmd thread), unscrcw the six
hexagon head aa}- seraws (do not disturb the two screws closest to kickstarter shaft),
mscrew tlle one slotted-Eeu--he ow footchange assembly and NOTD a further screw
located at the top rear of gearcffie wifh-iafdd'€n--lihe left side, accessible with a long scret
driver from left side, must be removed.
350 ROYAL ENT'IELD,SERVICING
the ehannel section operating lever and it is necessary to disconnect cable

from lever and swing lever away from box. Adjust screw in plunger and
reconnect.
Front Cha,in Atljustment-Chain should be adjusted when slack
exceeds 3/4t' rr.iilway between sprocke+-s. Slacken top gearbox securing bolt
and bottorn pivot bolt. On earlier models, there is no adjusting screw and
procedure is to pry gearbox backrn'ards or forwards to give the correct
setting of chain and then to retighten the top and bottom bolf_s securely.
On the later models, there is an adjusting screw at the top rear of gearbox.
This screw serves to push gearbox ahead if chain requires slackening and
also to prevent possibility of gearbox being pulled back by the rear chain
and the front chain tightened during service. On these models, adjustment
is effected by slackening the top and bottom boits as on the earlier models
and if it is neeessary to tighten chain, slacken this adjusting screrv and
pry gearbox back to give the correct adjustment. Tighten top and bottom
gearbox securing bolts. Then screw this adjusting screw back in gradually
until it contacts the gearbox, then retighten the locknut on this screrv.
500 Twtn Front Chain Adjustment-An adjuster shoe is used under
bottom run of chain. The set screw adjustment is aceessible when chain
cover is removed. Adjust to give 3/st' free up and down slack midway in
top run.
Rear Chain Adjustment-This is effected in the usual manner brv
slackening the two axle nuts and adjusting the two set screws on either
side of the rear forks an equal amount. Retighten axle nuts securell'.
Rear Chain Atljustrnent-Spring Fra,me Models-Cams are used on
each end of axle bearings ag:ainst frame pe,gs. Rotating cams moves rear
wheel. Wheels should be in correct alignment when the same cam ,,notch'
is in use on both sides.
Generator Cha,in Ailjustment-On tlne 225 c.c. two-stroke models. a
chain drive generator was used. To adjust chain, slacken the generator
band securing' screw and rotate generator either way to give requireC
setting of r/+" free slack at tightest part of chain, midrvay betrveen
sprocket. Retighten securing bolt securely.
Section 6
FOR,KS, F'B,AME AND WHEELS

Plunger Fork Dismantling Procedure
IJnscrewing top cap nut (a), the filter body (b) and removal,
together with filter (c), unscrewing oil level plug (s) and nut (r) enables
the spring (g) together with the top stud and bottom stud (o) to be
pulled out from top of fork leg. If it is desired to dismantle further it rr-ill
be necessary to block up machine to take weight off front wheel. Remove
front wheel, next remove bottom tube (n). This is done by unscrerving the
outer tube (i) from the lower fork lug (h) and sliding down until gland
nut (j) is exposed. Ijnscrew nut (j) and bottom tube (n) can be rvithdraB'n
leaving the bottom tube bush (I), the oil seal (k) and the gland nut
(j) on the main tube (e). The main tubes (e) can be removed by
slackening the lower lug pinch bolt (u). Wedge a screwdriver in the
lower lug split arld puu main tube down out of top head lug. The gland nut
E'ORKS, T'RAME AND WHEELS 351
(j), oil seal (k) and bottom tube bush (l) can now be tifted off the main
tube (e). Do not attempt to remove the main tube bush (o) at the lower
end.
Rernoval of Top Cover Tubes ra,nd Lamp Brackets-Slacken steering
head pinch bolt and remove the top steering stem nut. The small and large
top leg nuts (a and b) should be unscrewed if not already removed. Then
the top fork lug can be tapped up, alternating tapping from one side to
the other. When this is removed the top cover tubes can be lifted off.
Ir1. 146
THE R,OYAL ENF'IELD PLUNGER

F'OE,I{S PAR,T SECTIONED
The aboYe illBtration reveals the
construction of ttre Royal Enfield
plunger fork legs. In normal serviee
no raintenance will likely be re-
quired other thm occasional adjust-
ment of head bearing and addition
of oi1 at about 5000-mile interva.ls
or seasonal change of grade.
To obtain correct oil level, add a
small quantity of oil to each leg
and remoye leYel plug screw (S)
from trottom of each leg which will
allo'tr oil to drain out to correct
1eve]. Use S,A,E. No.20 oil.
Steering Head Bearing Atljustment Plunger Forks-slacken stem

pinch bolt located at rear of top fork lug. Slaeken the two fork leg pinch
bolts (u). Tighten the steering stem top nut with moderate pressure, then
back off about %o turn. Retighten pinch bolts (u) and top stem lug pinch
bolt. Block can be placed under motor to check freeness of fork; forks
should be perfectiy free without any noticeable play in head bearing.
Rear Spring Ffa,rne Plunger Leg Oil Supply-I'iller plug screw is
loeated at top of each teg. A small quantity of S.A.E. 20 oil should be
added at 5000-mile intervals and the bottom screw plug' removed which
allows oil to drain to correct level.
Rear Vlzheel Remova,l-Complete wheel removal is effected in a
conventional manner by slackening the two axle nuts, removing adjusting
nut from end. of brake rod, disconnecting brake anchorage, disconnecting
chain. A quickly detachable mud guard is fitted to most Royal Enfield
maehines, enabling the complete rear section of mud guard to be removed
very quickly. It should be noted that on the later 350 c.c. and 500 c.e.
models, the right end of the rear axle is separate and removable and there
is a distance piece between the right rear fork end and wheel. This
enables a tube to be removed for repairing and refitting without removal
of wheel from machine.
352 ROYAL ENT'IELD SE}RVICING
1946 and Earlier Girder Fork Moilels

L25 c.c. Motlel Plunger Fork Lubrication-These forks are assembled
with one ounce of S.A.E. 20 oil in each Ieg. Addition of oil should not be
necessary at under 5000 miles unless there is evidence of leakage. Oii can
be added via the lubricators at the top of each leg.
Fork Spindles-On all Enfield models except lightweight two strokes,
fork link spindle end play adjustment is provided by means of the left and
right hand threads on spindles and in fork links. Spindles are plain u.ithout
shoulders, threaded right hand at one end and left hand at the other;
spindles have squared end for adjusting. To adjust, slacken both spindle
nuts and rotate spindle to tighten Iinks to forks, then turn in other
direction t/a turn and tighten locknuts which will give approximate
adjustment. Links should be quite free with barely perceptible side play.
L25 c.a. Model Fork Spindles-Note-rear fork spindle bolts are
adjustable. To adjust, slacken locknuts, tighten bolt fully, then back off
L/a turr:- and retighten locknut. Make sure forks operate perfectly freely
after this is done.
Fork Steering Head-No pinch bolt is used on the 1940 and earller
lightweight models. Note that adjusting cone is located below top rear
fork spindle head bracket and locknut on top. Be sure to tighten top
locknut very securely after adjusting. This nut takes all fork spring load
and if allowed to run loose, thread may strip when in service, Tightness
of this nut should be checked frequently.
W'heel Bearings-Non-adjustable journal ball type bearings are used.
No attention will normally be necessary until routine dismantling artd
repacking with grease at approximately 20,000-mile intervais. \l'hen p1a3'
at wheel rim reaches t1"", need of bearing replacements is indicated. \\tren
removi.ng bearings from hub, one bearing can be driven out bv a-xle
exerting pressure on inner race. Other bearing can be tapped out n'rth
punch against outer race. Note that when new bearings are installed into
hub, pressure should be applied to outer bearing races.
Rear Sprocket Cush Hubs-Most Royal Enfield models are fitted *rth
a cush hub. The drive from the rear sprocket to the rear u,heel beiag
transmitted by metal vanes and rubber blocks. When a considerable
amount of backlash develops, replacement of rubber blocks sLrould be
made. On the earlier models, double nuts were used on the cush hub bolts
and these should be kept well tightened. On the later models. self-locking
nuts are used,
I
953
CIIAPTER TW.ELVE
SAI{BEAM SERVICING
This chapter provides brief servicing details on the 1947-1952 Sunbeam
500 c.c. O.H.C. Shaft Drive TWin models. Although differing substantially
in general design from the conventional chain drive tlpe of, motorcycle,
operating procedure is quite similar and useful information on this topie
will be found in Chapter Three. Reference should be made to Chapter tr'our
for details on averag'e maintenance requirements, which will be found
Iargely applicatrie, except reference to front and rear drive chains can be
disregarded. Given proper maintenance, complete overhauling should not
be required until high mileag'e has been covered. Reference should be
made to the Manufacturer's Manua1 if more detailed servicing information
than that contained in this chapter, is required. E or servicing information
on carburetors and electrical equipment, refer to Chapter Sixteen.
Section 1
LI]BRICATION
Grades of Motor Oil-Recommended oil grades for varying temper-
atures are as shown below. It will be observed that a grade lighter than
generally recommended for average motorcycle motors, is called for. Ahis
results from the cool running characteristies, and comparatively close,
plain bearing and piston clearances.
Average Temperature Gratles of Oil
90o or Over S.A.E. No. 50
600 900 S.A.E. No.40
300 - 600 S.A.E. No. 30
oo - 30o S.A.E.No.20
Below- Zero S.A.E.No. 10
Motor Lubrication-Oil supply is contained in the base o,f crankcase.
The gear type oil pump is located directly below rear of crankshaft and
forces oil through rear crankshaft main bearing, to con-rod big-end bearing
and to overhead camshaft. Oil returns to sump by gravity.
Motor Oil Changing-Oil should be changed at 1000-mile intervals
unless operating under extremely dusty conditions or at below freezing
temperatures. Under such conditions oil change at 500-mile intervaJs is
recommended. Drain oil when hot immediately after operation. Drain
plug is located at bottom tow'ards front of crankcase sump.
354 SIINBEAM SERVICING
IU. 14?
SUNBEAII RIGET SIDE

LUBRICATION POfNTS
trI. 148
SIINBEAI{ LEFT SIDE

LUBBICATION POINTS
Sunbeam Lubrication Chart
It@r No. Lubrication

1 Crankcase Oil Sump Motor Oil Change erery 1000 miles
Gearbox Motor Oil Check level every 1000 miles
Chan-ge seasonally or e\.ery 50OO miles
Rear 'Worm Drive Motor Oil (neck Ievel elery 1000 miles
.hange seasonalty or e\-er:-J000 miles
4 !'ront Forks Motor Oil Drajn dnd refill e\-ery,l000 m;les
.t (s.A.E. {See Page 355)
5 Saddle Suspension (S7)
Rear Sring tr'rame
Saddle Pivot
I
8 Front Irub I
I Rear Hub I
I
I
10 Frame Steerlng Head. crease i A11 1000 miles
11
72
Rear Brake Camshaft
Rear Univemal Joint
f
I
13 Rear Brake Pedal I
7+ Brako Cross Shaft I
15
16
Central Stand Pivot
Prop Stand Pivot
) )I
LUBRICATION 355
crankca,seFilter Tray-A gauze filter tray is located in crankcase
sump. _sump should be removed and filter tray cleaned at 10,000-mile
intervals and when overhauling..
crankcase oil supply is 372 pints. The mark on dipstiek indicates the
I correct level.
I Gearbox Lubrica,tion-Motor oil of the same grade as used in the
moto'r is the recommended lubricant. capacity is one quart. oil level should
I be checked at 1000-mile intervals. Level plug is located at 4ght rear side
of gearbox in front of kickstarter shaft. Drain and refili gearbox at
5000-mi1e intervals, or seasonally if there is substantial chanEe in tem-
perature. Drain plug is Iocated at bottom of g:earbox.
Rearr v[rheel TVorm nrivo Lubrication-Motor oil of the same grade

as used in engine is correct lubricant. check level and add oil if necessary,
every 1000 miles. Drain and refill seasonally or at b000-mile interva*.
Level plug screw is orr right side, direcily below axle. Drain plug is at
bottom. Capacity is r/2 pint (See lll. 158).
Front f'ork Lubrica,tion-On 1947-1948 model SZ Sunbeam machines,
l a g'rease fitting is provided at the top of the central spring housing. wick
lubrication is provided to the teleseopic fork legs. nacrr teg coi,tair,s a
cotton wick which is soaked with oil. Removal of plugs and topping up
with oil at 5000-mile intervals is usually adequate.
on the 1949 and later moder sz and all model sg machines, a drain
screw is located at the bottom of each leg. At b000-mile intervals top leg
cap screws and drain screws should be removed, drain screw.s refitted and
the correct amount of ^s.A.E. No. 20 oil poured irrto each leg. oil quantity
for model S7 is % pint per leg and model 58, la pint pu, I*€.
vvheel rrubs-As an arternative to grease gun lubrication, hubs can
be dismantled, cleaned out and replenished lz tilt with grease at 20,000-
milo intervals.
Bra,ko Ca,r:oshafts-Avoid- excessive g?easing, as g.rease may work onto
brake linings. one or two shots from standarcl grease g"on it 1000-mi1e
iatervals is adequate.
controls-Exposed ends of contror cabres, control cabre nipples and
lever pivots should be given oil can lubrication.
n
Air cleaner-service at 1o00-mile intervals. wash element in gasoline
,
or solvent, oil element and drain before refitting.
L
356 SUNBEAM SERVICING
Section 2
CLEIIRANCES AND SEITINGS

SUNBEAM 500 c.c. O.H.C.
Cleara,nces and Settings S? a,nd S8 Motlels
Piston Clea;rances (round finish)
Bottom of Skirt......... .0O51/2"
Top of Skirt.............. .0051/2,,
Piston Ring Joint Gap.............. .010"
Piston Pin in Piston .000"
Piston Pin in Rod (reamed)....... .001/+,'
Piston Pin in Rod (honed) .001/2,,
Standard Cylinder Bore-mm.... 69.83 mm.

Standard Cylinder Bore-inches 2.749"
Exhaust Valve Tappets (motor cold).......,............... .018"

fnlet Valve Tappets (motor cold).............. .018"
Inlet Valve Stem in Guide............. .002"
Exhaust Valve Stem in Guids....... .004"
Valve Seat Angle............. 45 degrees
Crankshaft Endplay........ ,002" - .006"
Con-rod Big-end Side PIay...... .003" - .006"
fgnition Timing (retarded)..... T.D.C.
Breaker Point Gap..... .012"
Spark Plug Point Gap.... .020" - .02-o"
Valvo Timing
35 degrees
Inlet Closes After B.D.C, 70 degrees
Exhaust Opens Before B.D.C......... 65 degrees
Exhaust Closes After T.D.C............. 35 degrees
Carburetor Settings
Carburetor Bore Size 1-ttt,,
150
613
.1075
Section 3
MOTOB SERVICING
Motor Dismantling
IJnder normal conditions of use, a top motor overhaul, invoiving
cylinder head removal and valve servicing', should not likely be necessary
at less than 15,000-20,000 miles. Complete overhaul, including servicing
of connecting rod big:-ends and crankshaft main bearings, is untikely to be
needed at under 30,000 miles.
Whether pistons should be removed for replacement of rings when
a top overhaul iB being undertaken, will be dependent upon operating
conditions. Where a machine has been operating under comparatively
dust-free conditions, and there is no noticeable ridge in the top end of
MOTOR SERVICING 357
cylinder when head is removed, it may safely be assumed that the piston
and rings are in satisfa"ctory condition. This applies especially where oil
consumption has been normal. If there is noticeable cylinder .,ridge,,, and
there has been heavy oil consumption, it is wise to remove pisions for
piston anfl ring inspection.
Cylinder llead Bemova,l-Disconnect gas line, remove carburetor
throttle assembly, remove exhaust pipe cylinder head flange nuts, disconnect
exhaust pipe bracket to gearbox, muffler bolt, and complete exhaust
assembly can be removed. Disconnect the wire to oil preszure indicator,
w-ire from cbil to distributor and distributor cap. Remove spark ptugE
and eylinder head rocker cover. Remove complete distributor unit. This
can be withdrawn after removing the two flange nuts followed by damper
plate (T). Ill. 153.
The motor should be revolved until pistons are at top of stroke and
with distributor driving peg hole (A) I1l. 153, direcily below camshaft
centre. Ijnscrew bolt (D) IIl. 1bB, and withdraw the camshaft sprocket.
Remove the 11 cylinder head stud nuts (See llt. 150), Note nuts numbered
4 and 9 at rear of cylinder head are only accessible when the cover plate
at rear of eylinder head is removed. Cylinder head can now be taken to
bench for carbon removal and valve reconditioning.
Ill. 149
SUNBEAIII I/ALI'E TAPPET

AI}JUST}IDNT
Tappet adjustment is l@ated on valve
end of rockers, and is accessibte when
cylinder head rocker box covers are
removed. Clearatce is.018,, on both
inlet and exhaust. To adjust slacken
Iocknut (B) and rotate adjusting screw
(A) to give required clearanci, and
retighten locknut (B). Note-piston ts
on top of compression stroke in cylinder
on Fhich valves are being adjusted.
Removal of nuts (C) and (D) permits
removal of rocker sbaft assembly from
c_vlinder head for valve spring removal
and valve servicing when overhauling.
PARTS EXAMINATION AND R,EPLACEMENTS

Valve Springs-These should be compared with new springs for length
and replaced if shortened t/s" ot mote.
Va,lves-Replace if stems are worn .004,f or more, or head refaced to
a sharp e{ge. Thoroughly remove all carbon deposit from the exhaust
valve stems.
Valvo Guides-Test guides for wear with an ntbz't .002,, oversize stem
pilot from valve seat g'rinder equipment. Replace if there is noticeable
clearance on this p.ilot. Drive out old guides from inside of head to outside,
Head should first be heated.
Valve Stem Enil Caps-These should not be overlooked. Replace if
noticeably pitted.
Pistpn Bings-Replace if joint gap in cylinder at lower unworn end
exceeds .030". When fitting new rings file joints as necessary to provide
a minimum of .010" gap when ring is squared up in lower end of cylinder.
Scrape all carbon deposit from bottom of ring g:rooves.
Pistons-Pistons should be replaced if skirt clearances are .003" ir

excess of standard clearances shown on page 356, and if top rinS'groove
is worn to give ,007" or more ring side clearance.
Cylinder Reboring and Cylinder Sloeves-The manufacturers supply
-oversizesin
pistons .020" oversize. Replacement pistons are available in larger
but when cylinders are worn beyond available oversize cylinder
sleeves can be replaced, Heating block simplifies this job; press or drive
out old sleeves from bottom through top of block. Cylinder wear should
be measured with inside micrometer if available. If this should be in
excess of .00?-.008" at top end o,f ring travel, reboring and fitting oversize
pistons is recommended. This measurement is easily made with cylinder
head removed, without dismantling further. To remove pistons, it is
necessary to remove crankcase oil sump. This can be done wilh the motor
in the frame. Remove con-rod big-end caps and withdraw pistons and
connecting rods from the top of cylinder. Care should be taken not to
mix up the connecting rod big-end caps, and note they must be refitted
with the eap marks matching with the rod markings.
Cylinder reboring or honing involves complete motor removal from
frame. It is most important that crankcase be thoroughly flushed out to
remove all metal chips and abrasive particles after reboring: or honinS:.
FRONT
Ilt.
(o
150
CI-LD{DER HEAD NL-T

TIGIITE\DiG ORDER
This iltustration shows the order
in Ehich c]'linder head stud nuls
should be gi\-en final tighteDiDE.
Notts)iuts number 9 and 3 are
accessible through the opening
at rear of ctlinder block, and
when nuts are being retighteDed
on a[ assembled motor. the
{Q
cover plate Eust be remoYed
for access to these Duts Tlghten
to.10 f!. 1bs. torque B'ith motoi
coi d.
H
W\
Top Motor Overhaul ReassemblY
Cylinder lleatt Refitting-After valve servicing and carbon removal

has bien completed, cylinder head should be refitted in reverse order of
dismantling. If pistons have been removed and refitted, or replaced, note
if of the liigh compression type that they are correctly installed so that
the raised portion of piston crowns match the combustion chamber. Nelv
cylinder head gaskets should always be installed' Note that cylinder
head studs are finally tightened to 40 ft. lbs. torque in the order shoum
in Illustration 150. Head studs should be retightened with motor coid after
a period of 50-100 miles operation on the road.
MOTOR SERVICING 359
trt. 151 Itr. 162
EA.Btr,Y TYPE SUNBEAII CAMSf,AFT I.AT' TYPE SI'NBEII]II CA]iISIArI

CEAIN TENSIONER C'EAIN TANSIONEB
The above lllustration
til-simer^ used on Later
loaded blade tvpe chain"h9:^:^-!1"--_.!.ti1A rype sunbeam motors ha1€ the sprrng
iiliiJa'ivpu chain tensioner ilustrated above.
the earlv model sunbeam Ii?iioo'i*re
]yi|!:_.!gll-p-r_:--
mature failures of this chain tensioner have '"i::,iJii.""t intervals, and when overhau.tins,
should be effected as fouows:
iiils.!!,1}!"; ri"i" .X"i:il",:",$'ff:Tf;:!
*3'&,"iljii:U4",!i! 41"""f;%f*,.I;,t;11;;l*"i1";tti*Tt #:
li",,1T'I".i,i'#ii,'"'. :"":lXU;;,S:i'"m,*i:"jy;;l""Jiyf';,1*i
the new tvpe tensioner i:::ablv---o_! l!9 ilir-"iit; (B)
retishten bort and reptace
earlier motors can be obtained from the JJi'""r.'"Notu the fibre wastrer is fitted uder
manufacturers.
Ierittins the camshllt spr@ket when assemb- t",L?"1,1*"'lrl;,1 ",1"*,ifii*r"n"rXte pressure
tin-g -will be simplified if tension is taken off chain facilitates refitting camshaft
off the chain tensioner by means of insert- sprocfret when assembling.
rng a wheel spoke or length of wire with
hooked erd through the inspection hole and
drawing chain tensioner to left side as
illustrated
Valvo Timing-When refittirlg the camshaft drive, note pistons should

be set at top of stroke. Revolve camshaft until the driving peg hole (A)
I1l. 153, is directly above the camshaft centre. Engage the camshaft
sprocket in the chain so that peg is in line with hote (A), and then slide
into position. Refit securing bolt (D) and tighten. This job is facilitated
if pressure is taken off camshaft chain tensioner (See Ill. 1b1 and 152).
Ignition Timing-With the camshaft located as above, with hole in
sprocket directly below centre, revolve distributor drive shaft so that peg
will register with sprocket hole and fit into position. Note-Correct position
of, the distributor is with the low tension connection at the bottom. ff
the valve timing has been carried out correctly, the ignition timing will
be approximately correct. . The final adjustment can be made by revolving
the distributor slightiy either way within the range of movement allowed
by the distributor base slots. Breaker points should just commence to
separate with pistons at top of stroke. High tension wire from left side
of the distributor, fits the rear cylinder, and from the ri,ght side to front
cylinder.
Tappet Adlustrnent-Adjust valve rockers to give .018" clearance on

both inlet and exhaust valves. Note that piston in cylinder on which
valves are being adjusted, i's at top of compression stroke.
In. 153
CAMSIIAFT AND OIL PUMP DBTVE

This rear view of the SunbeaB fwin
motor shows details of eamshaft and
oil pump drive layout. Parts identified.
by letters are as follows:
A- Distributor Drive Peg
B- Dlstributor Coupling tr1mge
C- Distdbutor Flange Studs
tl- camshaft Sprocket Secuing Bolt
Il. CaGhaft Spmcket
F- Cover Plate
G. Cyllnaer Head Stud Behintl Cover
Plate
If. Timing Gear Shaft Circlip
J. Timing Gear and Camshaft DriYing
Sprocket Shaft
K. Timing Gear
L. Cylinder IIead Stutt Nut
M. Chain Tensioner Pin
P. Crankshaft E.ear B€iling HousinE
R. Oit PumP Drive Gear
S. Cmnkshaft Timing Gear
T. Danper Plate
Complete Overhaul
Although it is possible to service con-rod big-end bearings and replace
piston ringl or pisaons with the motor installed in frame, for other more
6xtensive work such as cylinder reboring, gearbox or clutch servicing and
attention to crankshaft main bearings, complete motor unit should be
removed from frame,
Motor Remov6l-psm6vs exhaust system, carburetor, distributor and
generator. Armature is secured to front of crankshaft with a lefthand
thread bolt. Drain g:as tank and remove; drain crankcase and gearbox'
Disconnect speedometer drive from gearbox. Remove battery container
and switch box. It is not necessary to disconnect any wiring as this is
sufficiently long to enable placing on saddle out of the way, Disconnect
the clutch cable at gearbox lever. Remove the two bolts securing drive
shaft to flexible block at front end of shaft. Dismantle the damper pIate,
motor to frame connection at top rear of cyllnder head, carefully noting
the layout of, parts for reassembly. Place a block under crankcase sump
to take the weight of motor unit. The complete motor unit can norv be
removed from the frame withdrawing from the right side.
liefitting Motor Into Frame Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Note that the front snubbers must be adjusted so that the clearance
between each rubber snubber and crankcase is .015"-.020". To adjust,
slacken locknut and rotate rubber snubber until the required setting is
obtained; then retighten locknut. f,'or detailed instructions on the assenbly
and adjustment of the top damper plate at rear of motor to frame coi-t-
nection, refer to Manufacturer's Manual.
Con-rod Bearing Shells-These are available in standard size, .005"
and .020" undersize. Crankshaft throws should be measured with a micro-
meter, if available. If wear does not exceed .002", satisfactory results
IGNITION TIMING 361
can be obtained with new standard shells. When crankshaft wear is within
the range of .001"-.002" big-end clearance can be reduced slightly by
carefully surfacing big-end joint, rubbing: on a sheet of emery cloth on
a level surfaee. Extreme care should be taken in this operation, not to
remove too much metal. When this is done, it is permissitrle to fit rods
so there is just barely perceptible drag when nuts are tightened to final
pressure of 25 f.t. lbs. torque. When wear exceeds .003" crankshaft should
be reground to 7.620" for ,005" undersize shells, and L.60b,, for .020,,
undersize shells. This will provide .001" big-end bearing clearance.
Crankshaft Bea,r Main Bearing-Thi's should be replaced if shaft
clearance exceeds .003"-.004". Shaft regrinding is recommended when
shaft wear is .003" or more. This beari4g is available in standard size and
.010" undersize. When fitting .010" undersize bearing, have shaft reg:round
to 1.490".
Section 4
IGNITION TIMING
_ Be-timing of the ignition will only likely be necessary after cylinder
head removal in the course of top overhaul. Ignition timing procedure
is detailed on page 359 under "Motor Servicing.,, A slight adJu-tment to
ignition timing may occasionally be necessary in between overhauls.
To check timing, first clean and set breaker points .012,, gap fully
open. Remove spark plugs; place machine on centre stand in high gear.
Revolve motor slowly with rear wheel until breaker points just colunence
to separate. F'oilow piston movement with a length of wire through spark
plug hole and observe piston should be just at top of stroke. This is the
retarded setti4g and if in proper order, the automitic advance mechanism
will prove the correct amount of advance.
Timing can be adjusted by slackening the two distributor base securing
nuts and rotating the distributor within the range of movement allowed by
the base slots. x'acing the distributor from the rear of the machine; revolv-
ing anti-clockwise advances timing., and turning clockwise retards.
Section 5
GEARBOX, CLUTCII AND EEAR DR,IVE

Geartrox and Rear Drive Lubrication-Motor oil is used. Refer to
page 355.
Gearbox Servicing-It is unlikely that any gearbox servicing will be
required until a very high mileage has been covered, Gearbox is secured
to the rear of crankcase by 5 studs, and removal of nuts enables gearbox
to be withdrawrr when motor unit is out of frame. The gearbox mainshaft
is a spline fit in the clutch centre- The clutch remains in position on the
crankshaft when gearbox is withdrawn. To dismanile gearbox, remove
kickstarter footchange pedals, Remove gearbox side covei plate, together
with kickstarter ahd footchange parts.
Clutch Servicing-The clutch should not require any attention until

complete motor overhauling, providing control slack is maintained (See
Ill. 154 for operating lever control adjustment details). Clutch dismantling
is quite straightforward. Removal of the six nuts permits removal of
clutch plate and spring:s. If noticeably worn, it is advisable when dis-
mantled to replace the clutch linings or fit a new plate with linings installed.
Clutch springs should be checked for length and if measuring below 1/2",
should be replaced.
Ill. 16!t
CT,UTCII OPERATTNG LE\IER ADtrI'STItrENT

(A) shows the normal position of the clutch operatlng
lever. The lever is reyersible and should be remoyed aDd
rcfitted as illustrated in (B) wben range of conirol cable
adJuster is exhausted. A mlnimum of 7Ae" - 16" clutch
cable slack at operating leyer end should be maintained.
Cable adjuster is located at gearbox end of clutch cable;
screwing ln insreases cable slack, and screwing out r&
duces.
rtvta pEvEastD
I0 co#pElluTr
t00 wtl!
ATCTUTCJ{ HIiIS
Rear Drivo-It is unlikely that any attention to the rear drive will
be required until a very high mileage has been covered, proliding lubricant
level is maintained, and it is not recommended that dismantling be under-
taken until need for attention is indicated, when reference should be made
to the manufacturer's servicing' instructions.
Section 6
FOR,KS, FR,AMES AND WHEELS
Fork Lubricartion-Refer to page 355.
Model 58 Forks-The forks on the Model S7 are of similar construction

to those used in B.S.A. machines, and reference should be made to pages
264-267 for servicing information,
Model S? Forks-Ill. No. 155 shows details of the forks used on the
1949-1952 model S7 machines. It should be noted that on the 1948 and
earlier models, hydraulic control was not provided as on these later forks.
On the early model forks a central spring was used, and the lubricant
in each leg was for lubrication purposes only. See notes under Il1. 155,
for dismantling details on the latest type model S7 forks.
E'ORKS, F'RAME AND,WHEELS 363
Steering Head Bearing Atljrustment--On model S8 this is the same as

on B.S.A. machines, Reference should be made to II1. No. 95 on page 265.
E'or model ,S7 refer to Il1. No. 155.
E. B
F. C
A
il. 155
SUNBEAII MODEL S? FRONT I'ORXS

This illustration reyeals the construction of the
later type model SZ forks with hydraullc control.
Note that top bracket is secured to main tubes
with ptnch bolts (E). Maln tubes are secuted Ln
lower bracket with nuts (II). Access to these nuts
is gained by removal of lamp bracket coyers (A)
and Iower sleeyes (J) by removing the three
screws (G). When reassembling, note that malD
tube nuts (H), pinch bolts (E) and (D) and top
cap screw (I{) are securely retightened.
Stesring IIeaaI Bearing Ailiustment MoiIeI SU
move the steering damper knob and steering -Re-
heaal
locknut (E). Slacken plncb bolts (I') at top ol
each leg and at top of steering stem. Tighten
adjusting sleeve (D) fully with moderate Dlessure
and slacken off 14o turn. Retighten pinch bolts
(I'), refit locknut (E) and tighten. Replace steer-
ing damper.
I
i
I
I
Wheels and Brakes

I
I
Wheel Removal-Both front and rear axles have lefthand thread, and
thread into right side of front and rear forks. To remove, slacken pinch
bolt at left side, and unscrew axle in a clockwise direction. On the
model S8, it is necessary to disconnect the front brake control as the
i
brake assembly comes away with wheel on this model. On the model S8
rear wheel and both front and rear wheels on model S7, after axle is
removed and wheel is lifted off splines, brake is left in position. f,'ront
and rear wheels on the model S7 are interchangeable.
Eefitting Wheels-Retighten axles securely and note it is advisable
to operate front forks up and down a few times before the right side pinch
bolt is tightened. When refittiqg front wheel on model 58, note that brake
plate registers correctly on fork leg brake anchor stud.
Wheel Bearings-Model S7-A non-adjustable roller bearirlg is used
on the drive side of each wheel, and a non-adjustable ball bearing on the
left side. The rear wheel on the model 58 is similar, but on the front
wheel, two non-adjustable ball bearingr are fitted. Nipples are provided
for grease gun lubrication. As an alternative to providing five or six shots

from the standard grease g:un at 1000-mile intervals, the hubs caxr be
dismantled and repacked a/z frtll of fresh grease at 20,000-mile intervals.
Bearings should be replaced when play at wheel rim of r/s" develops.
III. 156
BEAR BBAXE AD'USTMEI\PI

The shoe type brake adjustment is effecred as shown in the above
illustration. AauustiDg procedure is to tighten fuUy and slacke[ one
click. The brakc control rod adjutmeut is provided only for purposG
of obtaining desircal treight of foot pedal.
IIt. I-57
FR,ONT BR,AI(E ADJUSTIIENT

A shoe adjustment ls provlded for front brake on the
model S7. Adjusting procedure is the same as for rear
brake ,.s described above. On the model 58 cmtrol cable
adjustment only is provided. When excessive slack deYel-
ops eable adjuster should be unscrewed. On the model S8
front brake. it ts possible to centralize the brake shoes
by slackening the nut on brake plate just to rear of ad-
juster, applying front brake fully and tightening Dut wbile
brake is held on. The centralizing should be done wheD-
ever brakes are relined or after shoes have been removed
and. refitted.
rn. 158
REAR DRI\iE A}iD SPRING FRA}fE

Part Sectiotred
This illustration sho\rs constructional
details of the rear spling frame ffi used
on all Sunbeam TE in models. No maiB-
tenance is normally required other thu
regular grease gun lubrication. To dis-
mantle, remove rear whecl, pinch bolts
(A) and (B) and cap screw (C) from
each leg. The centre shaft can then be
tapped up from below, when the eom-
pleLe assembly can be wlthdram from
frame. Dismantling can be completed
by lemoval of bolts (D). $'hen reas-
sembling. note thar the heavt spr.ing
fits at the top and that bolts (D) md
(F ) register with the notches in sleeye
and shaft.
Reu DrivrNote (E) ts level screw for
rear drive lubricant. (F) is drain ptug.
CIIAPTER, TTIIRTEEN
TRIUMPH SERI/ICIIYG
Note-This chapter covers servicing of the 350 c,c., 500 c.c. and 650
c.c. Triumph Twin models. X'or information on operating, refer to Chapter
Three. An outline of average maintenance requirements, as well as useful
general maintenanee information, will be found in Chapter Four. Reference
should be made to Chapter Sixteen, "Reconditioni.ng and Servicing British
Models''' for servicing information on components such as carburetors,
magnetos, generators and electrical systems.
Secti,on 1
LUBRICATION
Grades of Motor OiI-E or recommended oil grades for varying tem-

peratures, refer to the Lubrieation Section of Chapter X'our "Maintenance,"
page 126.
Motor Oil Changing-Ttre Motor Oil Tank should be drained, flushed
out and filled with fresh oil of the correct g'rade at 1000-mile intervals,
when operating under favourable and comparatively dust-free conditions
at above freezing temperatures, IJnder dusty operating conditions, especially
where carburetor air cleaner is not fitted, oil should be changed at 500-mile
intervals.
When operating in temperatures below freezing:, oil should be changed
at 500-mile intervals or oftener, if there is evidence of water accumulation
in oil. Oil dilution is most prevalent where machines are used for short
runs in cold weather. Under some conditions, oil changing intervals of
200 miies are advisable, to maintain lubrication system in an efficient state.
Oil change should be made when oil is warm, immediately after
operation. It is beneficial to wash out oil tank with light oil, or oil mixed
with kerosene, gasoline or varsol. Machine should be leaned over well to
ensure that the flushing oil drains eompletely from tank. It is not essential
to remove and clean the feed filter in the tank or the retur:n filter from
the base of the crankcase on each oil change. It is considered good policy
to remove these and clean at least at 5000-mile intervals and when
overhauling.
366 TRIUMPH SERVICING
Oil Filters-Two wire gauze screen filters are employed. The feed
supply filter is located at the bottom of oil tank at front, and is removable
for cleaning by disconnecting feed line and unscrewing' large hexagon
fitting from tank.
Return filter is located at bottom of crankcase and can be dismantled
for cleaning by removing the four screws (See Ill. 159). When refitting,
make sure the gaskets are in good condition, or use jointing compound
on old gaskets. Avoid overtightening of secrlring screws. These are Y+"
coarse thread and these can be broken if overtightened.
6&o' III. 159
ffi
CRANKCASE OII,
R.ETUBN FILTDR
The Triumph single fllter 16
illustrated. Tho twin type l!
similar. A gasket is fitted be-
oWo
H
tr\Y'/
tween filter screen flange ud
crankcase and ilother gasket is
used on the bottor plate.
Filter screen should be washed
in gasoline or solYent at l€a€t
every 5000 miles and when over-
hauling.
Do nol overtighten the filter
plate cap screws, being ,vt"
coarse thread they &re effiily
broken. Remains of broken
off screrv €n generall!'be re-
moved bt' carefull!. punchiDg
around to unscren'rvhen clank-
cas€ is 1Yarm.
Iriumph Oil Pump-A double plunger pump is used on all Triumph

Twin models. The small plunger is the feed and the large plunger the
return pump.
A spring-loaded ball check valve is contained in the cap screrv below
eaeh plunger. Dirt on the ball valve seatings is about the only troubte
experienced with this pump. If failure in oil supply or return occurs,
remove cap screws below pump plung'ers and wash out ball seatings in
pump body. An oil squirt can filled with g'as or kerosene is useful for
this job. Clean balls, springs and cap screw cups lhoroughiy, and refit
ball first, followed with spring. Tighten cap screws securely.
Oil Pump Gasket-Tiris should be replaced when refitting the pump.
U the correct gasket is not available and one is beiag made up, note that
oil holes register correctly with large holes registering with the double
holes on return pump. Gasket should be approximately .010,, thick.
Oil pump must be securely tightened to the timing cover. lf oit pump
body joint surface becomes "bowed" due to the use of too thick a gasket,
it should be very caxefully surfaced flat by rubbing on a sheet of emery
cloth, placed on a sheet of g:lass or machined metal surface. Wash thor-
oughly after this operation.
LUBRICATION 5()4
Oil Pump Slirling Block-Note that this should be fitted with the
chamfered edge of hole towards the driving peg. This should be reploced
if noticeably worn or cracked.
Bocker Box Oil Feeil-1946-1952-Oil feed to the rockers should be
ehecked at 1000-mile oil change periods. Slacken right side rocker box
dome nuts and pry oil line banjo unions from rocker box. Start motor,
and note that oil emerges from both unions. If not, an obstructed line
can sometimes be cleared by removing the oil tank filler cap and with
motor running, placing finger over the oil return outlet in tank. This will
build up greatly increased pressure in the oil line to the rockers, which
is taken off the return on the 1946 and later models. If oil does not then
emerg'e from banjo unions, remove line and blow out. There is negligible
oil pressure at the rocker feed, but oil should emerg'e slowly when banjo
union is slackened, with motor running, if line is not obstructed.
Rocker Feetl Oil Supply Ailjustment-fw[ns 1938-1940-A threaded
restrictor plug is fitted in the rocker box oil feed union body connected
to the timing: cover, Oil feed to rockers can be increased by dismanUing
this body, removing threaded restrictor plug and running a tap through
body threads.
Oil Pressuro Reading-Iwins-An oil pressure gauge was used on
the 1938-1948 models, and on 1949-1952 machines the gauge has been
replaced with a pressure indicator. Pressure readings vary accordlng to
con-rod big-end clearance, and the clearance at the timing cover oil feed
bushi4g on the 500 c.c.-650 c.c. motors, and on the right crankshaft main
bearing on the 350 c.c. motors. Normal pressure reading at over 30 m.p.h.
on the road, ranges between 40-80 Ibs., and with motor idling when hot,
20-40 lbs. If oil pressure drops below 20 lbs. at 30 m.p.h. on the road,
and less than 10 lbs, when idling, trouble in oiling system or excessive
bearing clearance is indicated. Where a sudden loss of pressure is
experienced, trouble is likely due to a dirt or metal particle lodged on
the oil pump ball valve seating or in the case of 1938-1940 models, a
similar trouble may occur on the pressure release valve ball seating.
Note-On 7946-7952 models the oil pressure release valve uses a piston
plunger instead of ball, and no trouble is experienced with this type.
The function of the pressure release valve is to release oil pressure in
excess of 80 lbs. which normally only occurs briefly after starting up from
cold. Spring pressure is not adjustable. If spring is too weak, oil will be
released at too low a pressure. If spring strength is too great, oil pressure
may build up too high when motor is cold, causing' oil gaqge trouble.
Ilr. 160
1940-1948 OIL PRESSUR,E
REf,AASI VALIIE
A piston type valve ls used in pl&ce of
the baU type on earller models, Although
dirt can lodge on the ball seatlng of the
earlier type valve, no serviclng ls requlred
with ths piston type. 1949-1952 models
have the same piston type valve except
for adalition of oil pressure indicator.
Oil Pressuro Indicator-1949-L952 Models-An oil pressure indicator
is built into the pressure release valve on these models. It is advisable
to glance at this indicator occasionally when operating to note that button
is out, indicating oil pressure is present. If appreciable oil leakage occurs
at the indicator, this valve should be dismantled, and the rubber oil seal
tube replaced.
Low Oil Pressure-Twfin Models-The first thing to check is the oil

supply in tank, Diluted oil and use of too light a g:rade, will account for
reduced pressure. ff there is any doubt as to the condition of the oil, it
should first be drained, oil tank flushed out and refilled with fresh oil of
the correct grade and pressure again checked. If a loss of pressure has
occurred suddenly, and is not due to shortage of oil supply, it is very
likely due to an obstruction on the feed pump ball valve seating, or in
the pressure release valve referred to, above.
Where loss of oil pressure has occurred progressively over a fevr'

thousand miles, and pressure is not restored by changing oil and checking'
on the oil pump feed ball valve and pressure release, a worn con-rod
big-end bearing condition is the most likely cause. On the 350 Twin
model, oil pressure can also be lost at the right crankshaft plain bearing,
which is pressure fed, and on the 500 and 650 Twin models loss of oil
pressure can occur at the right crankshaft end oil feed bushing located
in the timing cover.
Oil Pressure Reading-Singles-On Single cylinder Triumph models,
equipped with oil pressure gauge, normal pressure reading will be between
5-15 pounds. Less pressure is likely due to dirt on oii pressure release
ball valve seating:. Remove hexagon plunger behind oil pump cover, at
lower rear side of timing g'ear cover and wash out ball vaive seating.. In
rare instances, a weak spring may be the cause. Spring can be stretched
slightly to increase tension. Dirt under feed pump ball vaive seating is
also possible cause of reduced oil feed, which wilt result in lower pressure
gauge reading. Oil pressure button indicator is used in piace of pressure
8:aug:e on some Single models.
On Single models not equipped with pressure gauge, oil circulation

can be checked by occasionally removing tank filler cap and obserwing
for return flow to tank.
Diluted Oil Reduces Oil Pressure-Too light a grade of oil for the
operating temperature, or diluted oil; that is, oil that has been reduced
in viscosity due to operation on short runs in cold weather, as a result of
condensation, will account for reduced oil pressure. If oil is in doubtful
condition, it is advisable to change oil to correct grade before proceeding
further, and recheck oil pressure.
tr'ailuro of OiI Return-I'ailure of oil to return from crankcase to
tank is unusual, but it is easy to identify by sudden loss in oil tank lel'el
and excessive exhaust smoking. This trouble is invariably due to dirt on
return pump ball valve seating. Removiqg, cleaning and reassembling'
should rectify. An obstruction in oil line from bottom of crankcase to
pump is a possible cause. Ttris can easily be checked by removal of crank-
_case oil drain plate and oil pump, when air pressure or squirt gun catl
be used to check passag'eway.
Oil Leakage-Triumph motors can be made very free from oil leaks
by use of a complete set of the correet gaskets when reassembling on
overhaul. ft is most important that the special rubber gaskets at the
base of the pushrods should be renewed. New rocker box gaskets should
always be used. Jointing compound is not necessary if joint surfaces are
in good condition. No gasket is used on the timing cover. A good quality
jointing compound should be used on this joint.
LUBRICATION 369
Gea,rbox Lubrication-Motor oil of the same g.rade used in the motor

to suit the season i's correct for the g:earbox. check oil level every 1000
miles by removing' level plug at rear of gearbox inner end cover, close
to tool box. Add oil via clutch lever eap opening to bring to plug level.
Drain gearbox oil and refill every 5000 miles or seasonally. Heiag6n plug
at bottom rear of,gearbox is the drain.
Front Drivo Chain Lubrieation-Chain runs in an oilbath, Oil level
should be checked every 1000 miles. Level is correct when lower run of
chain is just submerged in oil. Drain chaincase and refill with t/2 pint
of oil every 2000 miles. S.A.E. No. 10 oit is correct tubricant. rreavier
oil will cause clutch drag. tr'or sub-zero operation, add 2bya kerosene to
No. 10 oil.
Rear chain Lubrication-A springJoaded needle varve at the rear of
front chaincase regulates oil feed to rear chain, Turning in clockwise
reduces supply and turning out, increases rear chain oiling. This method
of lubrication is very satisfactory when operating on hard surfaced roads.
Best setting is usually within rang:e of l/e to 4 turn open. Rear tire
becoming oiled indicates need for reducing supply. wheie operation is
on dirt, or gravel roads, it is sometimes more satisfactory to oferate with
this adjustment cut off and chain serviced at 1000-2000 -mite iintervals by
removing', washing in kerosene or varsol, soaking in heated heavy oil or
Srease, or applying special chain tubricant.
Fork Lutrrication-Refer to Section 11 of this chapter for details on
plunger fork lubrication.
Greaso GrrnLubrieation-on 19b1-1952 moders, there is only provision
for grease gun lubrication at the brake camshafts, at rear brake pedal
pivot, and front fork steering head. Not more than one or two ihots
from the standard grease gun should be apptied to the brake camshaft
bearings at 1000-mile intervals. rt over-lu-bricated; there is danger of
g'rease working on to the brake lining.
On the 1950 and earlier models, with a Mark 1 type spring rear wheel,
grease nipples are fitted in the ends of axle. Earlier model machines, with
speedometer drive from the rear of gearbox or from rear wheel, have
grease nipples at the speedometer drive gearboxes, and should be given
one or two shots at 1000-mile intervals. on 1940 and earlier models,-with
girder type forks, the grease nipples on the four fork spindles should not
be overlooked.
wheel Hub Lubrication-Grease nipples have not been fitted to the
wheel hubs for some years. Where fitted, four or five shots from a
standard g'rease gun can be given at 1000-mile intervals. The present
policy which can be applied to earry models as well, is to dismantie nuts
at 20,000-mile intervals, wash out bearings and hubs and repack 7/z to ls
fuU with a medium grade grease, or fibious wheel bearing g""r,"u.
oil can Lutrrication-Handrebar ends of contror cables, nipples and
lever pivots should be given oil can lubrication at oil change interiats.
Front Fork Brake Eod rubo Guide-Grease should be appried to the
front brake cable tube in the vieinity o,f the guide on forks-to eliminate
squeaking and rapid wear at this point.
Generator oiling-The early 1949 and earlier models with the plain
bearing on commutator end of generator, shourd have a few drops of oil
applied through generator oiler at 1000-mile intervals.
370 TRII'IMPH SERVICING
Section 2
CLEARANCES AND SETTINGS
600 c.c. 600 c.c
Speed Twln Tlger 10O
TRIUMPII TWINS 350 c.c.
Tlser 1b0 1961 & Later
('60 & eulier) Trophy ModcIr
Clea,rances and Settings Twh 650 Th'derblril Alloy }fotori
Piston Clearances-Pistons finished,

ca,m ground and tapered
(.010" cam)
Solitl Skirt Type
Bottorn of skirt.. .0031/2" .004" .003"
Top of skirt.................... .005" .006" .005"
Riig lands...... ........................................... .013" .015" .015"
Thermal Slot Pistons (.012" cam)

Bottom of skirt......... .0027/z', .003" .002"
Top of skirt............... .0031/2" .004r/2" .00ts1i2',
Ring lands... .013" .015" .015"
Piston pin in piston .000" .000" .o00,,
Piston pin in rod (reamed)....... .001t2" .A07/+,, .001+"
Piston pin in rod (honed)...................... .004/+,, oot/-" 'ooa/2"
Cylinder bore, mm...... 55 mm. <i3 mm. 63 mm.
Cylinder bore, inches. 2.765" 2.+80" 2,480',,
Cylinder bore (650 c.e.), mm................ 71 mm.
Cylinder bore (650 c.c.), inches........... 2.795"
Inlet valve tappet (motor cold)........... .001" .001" iir'l

Exhaust valve tappets............................ - .002" .002" .004"
Inlet valve stem in guide........................ .0O27/2" .0027,;" .0027/2"
Elxhaust valve stem in guide................., .001,, .004" .004"
Valve seat ang'Ie.............. 45 deg. 45 deg.
tl
45-dgc.
Ignition advance (on piston)... a\hzt t B/^
9s
Breaker point gap..... .072" .o12" .072"
Spark plug point gap..... .018" .018" .018"
Con-rod big-end bearing.-........ .0077/2" .007\2" .0071"2"
Right crankshaft plain bearing.......... .001/z-.001"
Timing cover oil feed bush...... .001/i -.001" .001i -.001"
Valve Timing
Inlet valve opens before T.D.C.............. 22 d,eg. 26 deg. 26 deg.
Inlet valve closes after B.D.C.............. 66 deg. 69 deg. 69 deg.
Elxhaust valve opens before B.D.C...... 63 deg. 61 deg. 61 deg.
Exhaust valve closes after T.D.C........ 25 deg. 35 deg. 35 deg.
600 o.c. Speed

CarbEetor 360 c.c. Twrn aral 860 ec. 650 c.c.
Sef,tlnga Twitr Tmphy 1950 1951 r-100
Bore Size................. v/s" L6Ae" L" r$1a" 1,,

Maln let size
(sith alr cleaner) ... 110 130 140 or 150 15O or 160 140
!f,elD Jet size
(wttiout air
clsaner).................... L20 140 o! 160 180 or 190 190 or 20O 160 or 170
Throttle valve
Dumber..................... 5/3 or 5/4 A/3y2 6/3th 6/Slh 6/31/2
Needle Jet size...... .107 -ay' ,107 .L07 .107
\
MOTOR PARTS EXAMINATION AND REPLACEMENT.S 371
Section 3
MOTOR PABTS EXAMINATION AND REPLACEMEIVfS

Top motor overhaul drsmantling procedure is dealt with in sections
that follow in this chapter. When this work is eompleted, parts replacement
requirements for both the top and lower ends of motor can usually be
determined by careful examination. After all parts have been cleaned up,
a careful check should be made comparing clearances with the standard
clearances ]isted in the Clearance Chart on the adjoining pqge. Attention
is drawn in particular to the following parts.
Piston Bings-Remove top ring from each piston, place squarely in
lower end of cylinder bore, and check for gap. If in excess of .030", ring
replacement is advisable. If gap is less, there is nothing to be gained by
replacing ring's, and the remaining rings need not be disturbed. When
instaliing new ring's, be sure to remove aII traces of carbon from the bottom
of piston grooves, and file joints as necessary to provide required joint
gap in cylinder, Check that rings g:o down fully into piston grooves and do
not project above rin,g lands. Carbon residue in piston g.rooves can cause
breakage of new rings. Attention is drawn to the fact that some American-
made rings have greater radial thickness than standard English rings
and cannot be fitted without deepening the grooves in piston. Rings of the
correct radial thickness should be obtained where possible to avoid this
operation.
Pistons-Pistons should be checked with a micrometer, if available;
if not, they can be checked reasonabiy accurately with a feeler gauge.
Check skirt clearance on thrust face in lower end of cylinder. Measure at
right angles to piston pin. Replacement of pistons is recommended when
skirt clearance on thrust face is .002" or more in excess of standard
clearance listed.
The ring grooves should be examined for excessive wear, checking
the amount of side clearanee in the top groove. piston replacement is
reeommended if ring side clearance exceeds .007,,. Excessive top ring
g:roove wear is common where machines are operated in dusty areas
without aircleaner.
Piston Replacement-If piston replacement is being effected due to
a worn piston skirt or ring groove condition, cylinder bore should, of
course, be measured to determine the amount of cylinder wear. This is
dealt with in the next paragraph. If wear exceeds .004,, at top end of
cylinder, reboring or honing cylinders and fitting oversize pistons, is
recommended to obtain full benefit from the new pistons.
Cylinder Block-Wear measurements should be taken at the top end
of ring travel in cylinder. This is where the maximum wear occurJ, Re-
boring and fitting oversize pistons is recommended when wear exceeds
.008".
Cylinder Block Reboring-Oversizes-Manufacturers supply pistons
up to .040" oversize, and recommend a limit of .020,, on the ittoy-bloct s
with sleeves as used on the Trophy and 19b1 and later T-100 motors.
Sleeves in these blocks, incidentally, are not removable. Replacement
pistons are generally available in oversizes up to .060,,, and usually cast
iron 350 and 500 blocks can be rebored to this oversize satisfactorily. rt
is inadvisable to rebore the 650 block beyond .040', due to the head bolt
holes being very close to the cylinder bores.
TRIUMPH SERVICING
500 c.c. Cylinder Blocks-Different Types-1946-1949 model cylinder

blocks have drilled passageways for oil return from cylinder head to
crankcase. On 1939-1940 and 1950-1952 models, rocker box oil return is
via pipes from cylinder head to pushrod tubes. The blocks are otherwise
interchangeable and if block replacement is being made, it is essential
that the type corresponding with the cylinder head drainage be fitted,
The 1946-1948 models can be converted to the pushrod tube type
drainage system by drilling and tapping the eylinder head for the four
oil drain union bolts and installing oil drain pipes and pushrod tubes with
oil drain connection.
Cam Followers (Iappet Stems)-Premature wear has generally been
experienced on 1946-1951 Triumph Twin models on the tappet stem cam
bearing surfaces. The manufacturers have attributed this trouble to material
and hardening irregularities. fnsufficient cam lubrication, no doubt, has
contributed to this trouble.
During 1951 a new type of "tipped" tappet was introduced. This type
can be identified from the earlier tappets by the "tip" brazed on the
bottom of tappet for the cam bearing surface. It is reported that these
new type tappets have eliminated the tappet wear trouble. On the first
1951 and earlier models, however, until tappets have been replaced with
the improved type, these parts should be suspected of being badly worn
and whenever top overhaul is being undertaken, cylinder block should be
removed and tappet condition examined. It is not uncommon for a slight
"flat" to develop on tappets at point of cam contact, however, this should
not exceed .005" in depth, and if worn so that there is a very noticeable
ridge, tappets should be replaced.
Tappet Noise-Badly worn tappets (cam followers) can create exces-
sive noise often mistaken for piston slap and other engine trouble. When
dismantling a noisy engine, these parts should always be suspected, and
examined.
Cam Wear-Unfortunately, in many cases where tappets have worn,
cams have also suffered, and to get satisfactory life from new tappets and
obtain full engine performance, camshaft replacement is necessary. \Vhen-
ever cylinder block is removed, and tappets are being replaced, cams
should also be closely examined. The cam lift on the standard camshaft rs
.260". lt is wise to measure the lift with a ealiper or depth gauge. This
can be done without dismantling the crankcase. If lift is u'orn dou.n to i5:"
or less, it is advisable to dismantle crankcase and replace camshafts. lVear
in excess of this amount will seriously affect performance as a result of
altered valve timing' and reduced vaJve openi4g period. Once rvear has
penetrated the case hardening to this extent, further wear may take
place rapidly.
Valves-Refacing of valves and recutting seats w'ith electric valve

seat g:rinder is recommended on all top motor overhaul jo s. When rvork
is accurately done with this equipment, no g:rinding is necessary. Rapid
inlet valve head and seat wear is a charaeteristic of Triumph motors due
to the narrow seating employed. When valves reface out to a sharp edge,
they should be replaced.
Oversize Inlet Valves-In cases where considerable valve seat wear
has occurred in cylinder head, resulting in "pocketed" valve seats, it is
recommended that valve seats be recut and oversize head valves installed.
MOTOR PARTS EXAMINATION AND REPLACEMENTS 373
On the 500 Twin motors with iron tread, 15Ae" is standard valve head
diameter. $32" arrd. 7/s" oversize head valves are available (lteAz,, and. llAa,l
head sizes). To obtain maximum performance benefit where these are
fitted, especially on motors used for racing, it is recommended that the
port throats be cut out with a 75 degree port cutter, or with a valve re-
seating stone suitably dressed to open out the port throat measurement
at seat to 15/t6t'-111/s2", for the 71*52" size valves, arrd 7L1A2tt-73/8,, for the
L%.e" valve
On Trophy and T-100 models with alloy head, 17Aa,, diameter inlet
valves are standard and no enlargement of these is recommended.
Piston Crown Cutaway Cleara,nce for Oversize Inlet Valves-It is
advisable to check the piston head valve cutaway clearance when oversize
valves have been fitted. A simple method is to loca.te piston at top of
stroke and fit on head with valves installed, but without spring.s. Obsirve
amount valves can be lowered from "up" position. This should be at least
%.e"-1/+" for standard service, arrd 5/16t, on racing motors. piston crown cut-
aways should be scraped out as necessary to provide such clearance.
Exhaust and Inlet Valve Identifications-fn addition to their original
markings, valves can be identified by the concave head face of the inlet.
The exhaust valve head has a relatively smaller dish.
Valve Stem End Caps-Hardened valve stem end caps were used on
all Triumph O.H.V. models up to 1939. On 1940 and later models, very
slightly longer valves with hard stem ends are used. To distinguish betvreen
these two types of valves, test the end of, stem with a file.
valve Rockers-There is seldom need to dismanile rockers and shafts
from rocker boxes unless machine has been operating for some distance
without oil feed to rockers due to an obstruetion in the oil line, resulting:
in unusual wear. fn such event, replacement o,f rocker ball ends and push-
rods will likely be necessary. Rocker ball ends are a push fit in rocker.
Rocker tappet adjusting screw should be replaced if noticeably worn or
rough at point of valve stem contact.
Piston Pin Bushings-Replacement is recommended when pin clear_
ance in bushing exceeds .002"-.003". Replacement is seldom found necessary
in between complete motor overhauls and can be best effected when
con-rods are removed. After insertion, new bushings should be reamed
so that pins are a light finger push fit, or honed to g"ive a perfeeily
free fit.
con-Rods-Replacement is recommended when rod bearing crearance
is in excess of .003". Although it is possible to continue opeiation with
greater clearaflce, low oil pressure wiII result. on the b00 and 650 Twin
motors with the split big-end, some adjustment to con-rod big-end bearing
ca1 pe effected by careful surfacing of the con-rod joint surface. Rubbin[
rod big-end joint surface on a sheet of emery cloth on a level surface is
the best method. A check shourd be made on "bearing tit atler everf aor",
or so strokes to avoid removing too much metal. ff an attempt is maAe
to adjust for considerable wear in this way, a big-end that is^ somewhat
out of round, will result, and low oil pressure may itilt be experienced with
wha,t appea,rs to be a gogd fit. rt is generalry belter poricy t-o replaee con-
rods rather than attempting adjustment by iervicing-big_ind joint.
If rod joint surfaeing is to be undertaken, to take up over .008,,,
it is advisable to true rod big-end by honing on sunnen bu-srring grinder
JIl TRIUMPH SERVICING
after surfacing rod joint. Big-ends should be finished so that when rod
bolt nuts are tightened up to 25 ft. lbs. torque, rod is free without notice-
able play. Just barely perceptible drqg is permissible on a slightly worn
shaft. Note-if rod big-ends are being honed, rod bolt nuts should be
tightened up with exactly the same tension as on the final tightening.
Before replacing con-rods, and wherever possible when servicing big-
ends, it is advisable to check condition of crankshaft throws with
micrometer. See notes below.
Crankshaft Throws-standard crank throw diameter on the 500-650
motors is 1.436"-1.4365". If shaft wear is .001" or less, satisfactory results
witl be obtained by just fitting new standard rods. ff crankshaft wear
exceeds .001" but is not over .003", and partieularly if crankshaft has
noticeable score marks, it is advisable to polish throws by running the
crankshaft in lathe and polishing down with long strips of emery cloth,
1" wide. !'inal polishing should be done with a fine emery cloth, such
as No. 240. Most scored crankshafts can be polished very satisfactorily in
this manner. Where .003" or more undersize, however, throws should be
reground to 7.426"-1.4265", and .010" undersize rods fitted. If wear is
less than .003" rod joints can be surfaeed as described on page 373.
On the 350 TWin crankshafts standard throw diameter is 1.373"-1.3735".
When wear is not in excess of .001", new standard rods can be fitted. If
in excess of this amount, shafts should be reground to 1.368"-1.3685"
and .005" undersize rods installed. These are the smallest undersize rods
the manufaeturers supply. It is, however, possible to regrind as much as
.008" undersize, providing throw is set up in grinder sufficiently tnre
that the end of throw that fits into flyrvheel is not reduced in diameter in
the regrinding operation. The 350 Twin type rod can easily be rebabbitted
at an automotive supply machine shop.
Crankshaft Main Bearings-500-650 Motors-A ball bearing on both
sides of the crankshaft is used on the 500 Twin motors up to 1949. 1950
and later 500-650 motors have a ball bearing on the drive side and a
roller bearing on the right side of crankshaft. Replacement is seldom
necessary in under 30,000 miles of operation. Condition of bearings can
bo judged without dismantling crankcase. Left bearing can be checked
by lifting up and down on the engine drive sprocket. Condition of right
bearing can be checked if timing cover is removed and attempt made to
lift up and down on the right end of crankshaft, If clearance is more than
just perceptible, replacements are recommended.
350 Twin Main Bearings-Ball bearing is used on the drive side and
a plain bearing on the right side. Excessive clearance on the right side
bearing, as in the case of excessive rod clearance, can cause loss of oil
pressure on this model.
Timing Cover Oil Feed Bushing-500-650 Twins-Wear in this bushing
can cause loss of oil pressure in these models. Fit of bushing on crankshaft
end is most easily checked by removing timing cover, and refitting cover
in an upside down position so that timing cover wiII clear the idler gear
stud. The bush should be replaced if shaft clearance is in excess of. .002".
Itller Timing Gear Bushing-If there is noticeable back lash between
idler gear and the crankshaft g:ear or cam gears, this may be due to a
worn idler gear bushing. If shaft clearanee exeeeds .002", replacing is
advisable. Ream or hone bushing after replacement if necessary, to provide
a free fit on shaft.
500-650 TWIN MOTOR SERVICING 375
Cranksha,ft Bearing Replacement-Note-Right side bearing is re-

tained with a circlip. After removing this circlip bearing can be tapped
out. Crankcases should be heated to boiling water temperature to permit
easy removal and replacement. Bearings should be replaced when there
is perceptible straight up and down play, roughness or evidence of rusting.
Crankcase Breather-On 1946-7952 models a rota.ry disc type crank-
case breather is located at the left end of the inlet camshaft. Care should
be taken when dismantling not to lose this breather disc or the spring
that fits at the end of camshaft and presses against disc.
Cranksha,ft Servicing-When crankcase is dismantled and con-rod
big-ends are being serviced, it is opportune to dismantle the crankshaft
and clean out the space between the flytvheels as well as the hollow section
of the crankshaft throws. This space acts as a centrifugal oil filter and
a.fter upwards of 20,000 miles, a considerable amount of dirt is collected,
which should be scraped out when dismartied. Be sure to mark flywheel
before dismantling, corresponding with a mark on one crankshaft half
so that flywheel is reassembled in the same position, otherwise balance
may be affected. \ilhen reassembling, the original type special bolts should
be used and nuts punch locked.
Section 4
5OO .650 TWIN MOIOE SERVICING
Top Overhaul Dismantling

Cylinder Head Removal-Drain gas tank, remove tank interconnecting
pipe where fitted. Disconnect oil pressure g:aug'e union under tank,. and
battery ground wire (1948 and earlie?), Remove the four tank securing
bolts, Remove the saddle pivot bolt or remove the twin seat where fitted.
On t}te 1948 and earlier models, tank can be slid back on top of saddle
or saddle can be tied back looping a length of cord to the saddle nose and
tying to license holder. This will permit sliding back of tank far enoug'h
to clear cylinder head and save disconnecting any panel wires. On 1949
and Iater models, however, without panel in tank, it is simpler to com-
pletely remove.
Remove spark plugs, carburetor, exhaust pipes, rocker oil feed
unions, the eight cylinder head bolts and four rocker box bolts and nuts
and rocker boxes: Ijnscrew the four rocker box oil drain union bolts at
cylinder head (1938-1940 and 1949-1952 only) and remove rocker boxes,
Cylinder head can now be removed to bench.
Pushrods-Pushrods can be marked tightly w.ith a file at top ends to
ensure refitting in original locations, and eaeh pushrod tube e,omplete with
pushrods aJrd oil drain "V" pipes, where fitted, removed.
Cylinder Block Removal-On 1938-1940 models rear base nuts are
rather inaceessible with magneto in place, but can be removed easily if
a suitable wrench is not available by use of a long: punch or heavy screw-
driver and hammer. Note.-Magneto strap securing bolt must be removed
on 1938-1940 models before block can be lifted off.
376 TB,ruMPH SERVICING
Secure Tappet Stems Before Lifting Block-Tappet stems may drop

into crankcase when block is lifted unless first secured by wedging a piece
of tapered wood or cardboard between stems.
Piston Removal-After removing one lockring from each piston, pin
can be tapped out from opposite side. Piston should be well supported
from opposite side when tapping out pins, to avoid bendi4g rod, If pins
are very tight, pistons should be heated for removal and refitting. It is
good policy to mark pistons so they are refitted in their original positions.
Parts exarnination-After cleaning, parts should be examined and
parts replacements determined in accordance with data in preceding:
sections, numbers 2 and 3.
Cylinder Heatl and Block Clea,ning*Carbon, dirt and burned on oil
are most easily removed from cast iron cylinder heads and blocks by
submerg'ing these palts in a hot caustic soda and water solution for an
hour or two, then hosing off. It is most important that no aluminum
parts, such as rocker boxes or inlet manifolds should be put in the solution.
The alloy heads and blocks on the Trophy models and on the 1951 and
later Tiger 100 motors, also must not tre put in caustic soda solution. Cast
iron parts are not in any way damaged by this solution, except for paint
removal, and after such treatment head and block should be given a thin
coat of heat-resistant black paint before assembling to avoid rusting.
Flush Out Crankcase--After determining that such parts as the
cams, con-rod big-ends and crankshaft main bearing's are in satisfactory
condition, and that crankcase dismantling will not be necessary, all traces
of cylinder base gasket should be scraped off crankcase, and crankcase
flushed out with solvent. Oil should be poured over big-ends and main
bearings, and the crankcase covered up awaiting completion of the top
overhaul bench work.
500-650 Twin Top Overhaul B,eassembling
Gaskets-A complete set of factory gaskets should be used, rvhich n'ill

ensure an oiltight job if joint surfaces have been well cleaned and are
adequately tightened.
1946-1949 Cylinder Head and Base Gaskets-Note that these are
fitted so that the oil drain holes in gaskets line up with the rocker box oil
drain holes in head and cylinder base. The same gaskets can be used on
the 1939-1940 and 1950-1952 machines, although the oi1 holes are not
needed due to the pipe drainage system from rocker boxes to pushrod tubes.
Note that the 1949-1952 type head and base gaskets rvithout oii drain
holes are not suitable for the 1946-1948 models. Cylinder head gasket
should be replaced if there is any sign of leaking having taken pIace. If
not, it can be heated up red, quenched in cold water to soften, and re-used.
Cylinder Block Refitting'-Make sure that pistons are refitted in their
original positions, and that pin lockrings are fitted right down into grooves.
If new lockrings are not available, o1d ri4gs should be straightened and
tension increased by opening out slightly, if weak or twisted. Note that
rings have been provided with correct g'ap and that they seat right down
into piston grooves,
tr'it cam followers (tappet stems) and secure by forcing a small wood
wedg'e or cardboard between stems. Locate both pistons level on cylinder
basq locating: over front crankcase studs.
The casting numbers on edge of cylinder base identify front of block
and on 500 twin iron blocks a further identification of correct location is
the flat extension of base casting' near tappet guide; this is at rear of
block.
Ring compressors are not necessary, and cylinder bloek can usually
be most easily fitted by working block carefully over a ring on each
piston at a time, alternating from one side to the other. Ring joints should
be entered into cylinder first, where possible. When this is done, pressure
applied on ri4g opposite joint with a blunt instrument will enable block
to be eased down.
Cylinder He.atl Fitting-The rear pushrod tube and pushrods should
be first irstalled. Note that pushrods register on tappet ends, then head
can be fitted with carburetor manifold but without rocker boxes. Tighten
head dowrr moderately with four outside head bolts.
Fitting Rocker Boxes-Instail front pushrod tube and pushrods, noting
that pushrods eng'ag'e on tappet stems. It is wise to revolve motor a few
times, noting movement of all pushrods, confirming correct positioning.
Revolve motor so that both inlet pushrods are down before fitting inlet
rocker box and tighten down with moderate pressure. Revolve motor to
get both exhaust valve pushrods fully down before installing exhaust
rocker box. Do not overlook fitting nuts to tlne r/a,, studs below rocker
boxes. These nuts should be installed before rocker box bolts are tightened
down.
Cylinder Head and Rocker Box Bolt-Final Tightening-Cylinder head
bolts shouid be tightened prqgressively with rocker box bolts and nuts,
working from centre to outside of head. The eight cylinder head bolts
should be tightened to a pressure of 50 ft. lbs. torque.
Tappets-After reassembling, adjust before refitting tank. Allow
.002" inlet and .003" exhaust. Recheck after a short distance of operation
and finally set .001" inlet and .002" exhaust (motor cold). Inlet rockers
free to move sideways without percep.tibte shake and just perceptible
shake in the exhaust rockers, indicate correct elearance. On the alloy
cylinder head and block models, allow .002" inlet and .004', exhaust.
Spark Plug Wires-If motor does not start immediately after re-
assembly, trouble may be due to spark plug wires having become acci-
dentally switched, and firing on exhaust strokes; try reversing.
Tank Refitting-Note that rubber buffers are fitted on both sides of
tank support, and bolts tightened securely. The long bolts fit at the front,
and the thick rubbers on top of the front tank support. Wire up tank bolts
with soft wire to prevent loosening.
Clean out tank connecting pipe where fitted. On 1g48 and earlier
models note that oil pressure gauge line has been connected up before
starting motor.
Gas Tap Leakage-ff tank has been dry for some time, plunger corks
may have shrunk. Refer to Page 159.
500-650 Twin Crankcase Servicing

Dismantling of crankcase will not normally be undertaken ualess
examination has revealed need of attention to con-rod big-ends, erank-
shaft main bearings, or camshaft replacements.
Engine Sprocket and Shock Absorber IIub Removal-Sprocket nut
is best undone with a 17s" socket ground down sufficiently thin to fit
into shock atrsorber spring cotlar, or with a tubular box wrench ground
down as necessary to fit. Remove nut while primary chain is still con-
nected. Place maihine in I'ear and apply rear brake. This is righthand
thread, undone anti-ciockwise. It may be necessary to strike wrench a
few harnmer blows to loosen. After removal of nut shock absorber
well as the shock
assembty and sprocket can be removed, as absorber
hub, which is a spline fit on crankshaft.
Crankshaft Tirning Gear Removal-After undoing crankshaft timing
gear nut, this gear should be removed with the factory puller if avaiiable.
It not, another type of puller shouid be modified or one made up to fit.
care should be taken not to damage the oil feed end of crankshaft when
removing this gear. If no puller is available, g:ear can sometimes be
removed liy supporting rlght crankcase after left half is removed, and
using a brass drift, hammering on crankshaft end. This procedure is
not recommended if it can be avoided as it imposes undesirable strain on
crankcase and right side bearing. Applying heat to 8'ear may aid removal.
Cam Gear Removal-Note-Camshaft gear nuts are tefthand thread
and undone clockwise. It will normally only be necessary to remove Lhese
nuts and cam gears when camshaft replacement is to be made. If cam-
shafts are not to be replaced, these parts are best left undisturbed. Gears
can be held from turning'when removinS'nuts, by holding the erankshaft
gear nut, or after crankcases are separated, camshaft should be clamped
in vice. If cams are not to be replaced, care should be taken to al'oid
damage to cams in vice. Before removing gears observe if they are of
the three keylvay type in which case it is wise to mark the keyrray in
which shaft key is located. This will probably be correct for reassembling.
(See page 379 for cam g:ear refitting details.)
The manufacturer's cam g'ear puller, which threads onto the gears,
should be used for gear removal if available. If not, a similar puIler can
easity be made up. Note-The thread on cam gears is 11i" diameter x 20
threads per inch. A short length o,f pipe can be internally threaded to
fit threads on these g'ears and a nut trrazed on opposite end to accom-
modate a centre screw. A puller should aJways be used on these gears,
Do not attempt to drive camshafts out because key u'ilI damage bttsh.ing.
Before Separating Cra,nkcases-There are two inner crankcase secur'
ing screws located just below the cylinder base surface surrounding' the
openings for the tappet guide blocks. These screws must be removed
before attempting to separate crankcases.
Crankca,se Separation-Crankcases are easily separated after all secur-
ing bolts and screws are removed. by lowering crankcase quickly to bench
top from height of about 6", striking drive end of crankshaft on bench.
Tappet Guide Block Replacement-First remove securing screl from
cylinder base. Tappet guide is a push fit in cylinder base, and can be
tapped out from below using hammer and drift. When fitting new tappet
guide block, lay a straight edge across top of cylinder block, contacting:
each cylinder bore, and position,guide block carefully so that tappet stem
holes are parallel to straight edge. After tapping guide block in s1ight1y,
check again to note that tappet stem holes are still both in line with
straight edge. Once the tappet guide block has entered through below
cylinder base, a straight ed8'e can be placed against the flat section of
guide, and the measurement taken from each cylinder bore to straight
edge.
It is important to follow this procedure when installing tappet guides,

to ensure tappets are parallel to camshafts. A block of hardwood or soft
metal drift should be used for driving in tappet guide block. Note that
tappet stems are free in ,guide holes after insertion. If burred over, clean
out w'ith a 6Aa" drill, or countersink holes slightly with a larger drill. Refit
guide block securing' screw throug'h cylinder base.
Crankcase Reassembly
fnstalling Camshafts-lf new camshafts are being fitted, the nuts

should be first threaded on to make sure shaft threads are in good condition
before installing camshafts. It wiil often be found that the threads on
new camshafts are burred over at ends, and may require bevelling of
the first thread on a g:rinding wheel, and use of a thread restoring file.
Clamp centre portion of camshaft in vice and thread on nut fully, to
ascertain that thread is free.
Cam Gear Fitting-Install shafts in right crankcase and block up
bottom end of crankcase on bench so that with left end of camshafts
resting on bench, crankcase is approximately level. fnstall camshaft keys;
these are a snug' fit in keyways. Pliers or a punch can be used to seat
keys down fully. Carefully locate cam gears so th€.t keytvay in gear
reg:isters exactly with key. Using a suitable tube spacer or a short length
of pipe, drive on cam g'ears fully.
This method of installing cam ,g'ears is found quicker and more satis-
factory than using the manufacturer's special tool, It is strongly recom-
mended that cam gears be installed in this way, prior to assembling of
crankcases. Cam gears can be refitted in the same manner, if crankcase
has first been assembled, but it is difficult to drive the cam gears fully
on due to the end float of camshafts ln crankcase. The Triumph cam-
wheel replacing tool number D181 is best used where crankcase is
assembled.
Three Key'way Typo Cam Gears-Where this type of cam gear is

used, the timing mark in line with the keyway which registers with cam-
shaft key is the mark to be used for timing purposes. This can be chalk
marked to identify, or the camshaft gear nuts left off until timing is
effected, so that camshaft key position can be located. With the standard
camshafts, valve timing is approximately correct when cam gear mark-
ings that are in line with camshaft keys, register with idler ,gear markings.
See Ill. 161. A slight variation in valve timing is obtained by repositioning
gears on different ke;rways. If it is desired to make an accurate check on
the valve timing, this is best done using a degree plate on crankshaft drive
end, and checking opening and closing points of valves after assembly
has been completed, qgainst the specifications listed on page 370.
It. 161
THD TRIUITPH TIVTN VALVE TI}TING MARKS

This itlustration shows the correct registering of timing gear marks for valve timing \rh€E
assembling. ft should te noted that;hen timing coveiia removed and motor revolted:: is
unlikely that marks will register as shorvn bedause of the odd numtler of teeth o::ie
intermediats gear.
To ensure that timing is correct, observe that when pistons are at top of sr.ol:e l1C
crankshaft pinion marked tooth engaging sith intermediate gear, that the mar":eC:€(::
on camshaft ge&rs are in mesh with the intermediate gear. The actuat posiilcn !: :j-e
irtermediate gear nrarlis do nol matter if gears are so meshed. If in doubt. lll:e:::::-a',e
gear should be taken out of mesh, crankshaft and camshaft gears positioned as s:onl a:C
intermediate gear meshed with marks registedng.
If crankshaft gear tooth mark is not yisible it is likely obscured b!' corne. o: .u:. :i :ut
is slackened to locate marked tooth be sure it is retightened.
Eefer to paAes 378-379 for cam gear removal and refitting details.
Inlet and Exhaust Camshafts-These are interchangeable. Iniiiall]',

there was a slight difference in that the inlet camshaft rvas slotteC for
driving the breather disc, but subsequently, both camsha-fts $'ere slotted
at the Ieft end, and are fully interchangeable.
Beforo Assembling Cra,nkcases-Make sure that crankcase joint sur-
faces are clean and carefully relieve any joint surface bruises or lugh
spots with a fine file. Coat joint surfaces with gasket shellac or gaske! goo.
Crankca,se Breather-On 7946-7952 models, a rotary disc tlpe cranl<-
case breather is located at the left end of inlet camshaft. The best method
of assembling is to have the right crankcase blocked up on bench *'ith
the centre joint up with the camshafts and crankshaft assembly installed.
Locate the breather disc in the end of the rear eamshaft bushing in left
crankcase, with stiff grease. Locate with the driving dogs torvards open
end of bushing. Locate in a definite position, such as with dogs at top and
bottom. Locate the breather spring next on the breather disc, securing
also with stiff grease. The inlet camshaft should be revolved so that the
breather driving slots in end are positioned to correspond with breather
350 TWIN MOTOR SERVICING 381
disc driving dogs. Lower the Ieft crankcase into position. It may be neces-
sary to tap lightly to enter main bearing onto crankshaft.
When crankcase joint surfaces are between 1/8"-Vta" from coming
together, the inlet camsha.ft g'ear should be rotated a few degrees either
way as the left crankcase is lightly tapped down. When the camshaft
driving stots align with dogs on breather disc, cases will come together;
crankcase can then be bolted up' When camshaft slots register correctly
with the breather disc, there will, after assembly, be a noticeable spring
action when the iniet camshaft is pressed in. There will also be a slight
drag when rotated, which is normal. If there is complete lack of spring
action when pressing'on inlet camshaft from gear end, or very excessive
drag, it indicates that something: is wrong with breather assembly and
crankcases should be separated, and breather assembly checked.
On 1940 and earlier Twin models, a simple diaphragm type breather
is located at left rear of crankcase just below the cylinder base. Breather
trouble is seldom experienced, but if not operating properly, excessive
crankcase pressure will be built up, resulting in oil leakage.
Cra,nkcase Joint Inside Screws-Do not overlook the two inside crank-
case securing screws located at tappet guide block openings. Tighten
these securely.
Section 5
350 TWIN MOTOR, SEEVICING
ToP Overhaul Dismantling

Dismantling procedure is generally the same as that already detailed
on the 500 Twin models in Section 4. Cylinder head ean be removed after
unscrewing the four centre and four outside securing bolts, removing the
bolt securing the cylinder head to frame brace, and raising tank.
It is advisable to remove the cylinder block to cheek piston and ring
condition, and for examination of tappet stems (cam followers), on all
top overhauls on this particular motor.
Marking of Pushrods-To ensure pushrods are replaced in their
originai position, it is desirable to mark these before removing. Simplest
method is to scratch marks lightly at the upper end of each rod, number-
ing 7, 2, 3, 4, going around clockwise, looki4g down, starting at No. 1
for right exhaust, No 2 right inlet, No. 3 left inlet, No. 4 left exhaust.
Replacing pushrods in the same position and with the same ends up on
reassembiy wiII minimize tappet adjustment variation after top overhaul.
Cylinder Bloek Remova,l-To prevent tappet stems from dropping
into crankcase when block is lifted, secure with elastic bands or wedg'e
a piece of wood or cardboard between stems to hoid in position. On the
7946-7947 models, with the long sleeve nuts that pass through cylinder
block into crankcase, block removal and replacing is simplified if these
are first unscrewed and removed. Removal of these sleeve bolts also
facilitates cleaning of crankcase cylinder base surface.
Parts Examina,tion-After cleaning, parts should be examined, and
parts replacements determined in accordance with data in sections 2 and 3.
382 TRruMPH SERVICING
In particular, it should be ascertained that the cams are not excessively

worn as a result of operating with badly worn tappets, and that con-rod
big-end bearings and right crankshaft main bearing, are in satisfactory
condition, If these parts are in good order, crankcase can be flushed out
and covered up, awaiting completion of the top overhaul bench work.
350 c.c. Top Overhaul Beassembly
Motor Oil Leaka,ge-On sorne of the 1946-1947 350 Twin motors, oil
leakage was experienced even with a new gasket set on assembly. Leakage
from the cylinder base joint is usually found to be due to crankcase
surface not being: perfectly level. Sometimes a slight "step" exists aL
crankcase joint, and where crankcase is being reassembled after complete
overhaul, this ean usually be overcome by tapping down on the high slde
when bolting up. Where this troubie exists on crankcases that are already
assembled in frame, carefully dressing with a file is recommended. As an
alternative, gasket eompound can be used on the cylinder base gasket or
two cylinder base gaskets fitted. If oil leakag'e at cylinder base rvas nol
present before dismantling, however, one standard gasket without gaskeL
compound, should be used.
Oil leakage at pushrod tube bottom ends is often due to tubes beilg
slightly short, resultin,g in insufficient pressure being exerted on the
pushrod tube gaskets when head is fully tightened down. Procedure for
checking this condition is covered in the following paragraph.
Pushrod Tube Locating-When assembling, after the head is fitted.
but not tightened down, it should be noted that the pushrod tubes can be
rotated with fingers and positioned with the mark on the bottom flange
of the pushrod tubes exactly central; that is, the front tube mark should
be visible facing the front frame tube in line with frame, and nlark should
be visible at bottom of rear pushrod tube in line with centre of frar:e.
After the head is tightened down, it should not be possible to tu1'n the
pushrod tubes with fingers or even with a fair amount of pressure \',-iih
pliers. If this can be done, it indicates that there is insufficien! pressure
on pushrod tube gaskets, and this is best rectified by placing another
LAz" paper gasket on the top joint. This wiII increase gasket pressure a:rd
eiiminate oil leakage.
Cylinder Block Eefitting-Correct position of cylinder block can be
identified by the letters "DS" stamped on the left (drive side) of base.
Cylinder is most easily installed on 1946-1947 models if the sleeve bolts
are left removed from crankcase and not fitted until after block is
installed. The same procedure for block refittlng as detailed under the
500-650 models in the preceding section, should be follorved. After cylinder
block is fitted, the sleeve bolts should be installed and screwed tightly i:rto
crankcase.
Cylinder Head Gaskets-Replacement is not necessary unless notice-
ably burned. Copper gaskets can be softened to advantage by heating red
and quenching in water. On 1946-1947 models, two copper ring type gaskets
are used and these should be located in the cylinder head with stiff g'rease.
Head Gasket Piston Clea,rance1946-1947 Models-The top edge of
pistons on some models may come just above the top edge of, cylinder bIock.
The head gasket opening is large enough to give clearanee so there is

littledanger of striking with standard pistons. When oversize pistons are
fitted, however, it is most important to check that top edge of piston top
ring land should be sli,ghtly below top of cylinder. If not, there is danger
of piston hitting head gasket, causing knock and possible damage. Difficulty
can be overcome by fitting extra base gaskets in some instances, or by
carefully machining down top edge of piston. An alternative method is to
carefully bore out inside of gasket in lathe, to give about .040" clearance
on piston top ring land.
Cylinder Head Gaskets-1948-1951 Models-A one-piece head gasket
similar to that used on the 500 models, is used on these later 350 T\rin
models, and the above remarks do not apply.
Refitting Pushrods a,nd Cylinder Head-This is a somewhat difficult
operation, however, it can be accomplished with a minimum of difficulty
if the procedure detailed helow is carefully followed:
1. tr'it new gasket rubbers in lower end of pushrod tubes. Paper gaskets
for the top end of tubes should be fitted on cylinder head, and held
in place with stiff grease or gasket compound.
2. With eylinder head on bench upside down, fit the two rear intake
pushrods irrto head, engqglng on rocker ball ends, X'it pushrod cover
tube over pushrods.
3. Working from right side of machine grasp front of cylinder head
with right hand, and hold up rear of cylinder head by bottom of
pushrod tube with left hand. X'ore finger can support pushrods
from dropping out, Lower head and pushrod tube into position on
block. Before proceeding further, carefully raise the rear end of
cylinder head and pushrod tube, noting that pushrods are eqgaged
on tappet stems. If not, remove a.lrd repeat operation or try lifting
pushrods with long nosed pliers, locating on top o,f tappet stems
before lowering head again,
4. Next, to locate the two front exhaust pushrods and pushrod tube,
raise front end of cylinder head keeping contact between eylinder
head and pushrod tube at rear of block. When cylinder head is
tilted up sufficiently at front, slip in pushrods with tube so that
pushrods eng:ag'e on rocker ball ends in cylinder head. Then, as
cylinder head is lowered down at front, pushrod tube and pushrods
shoutd be engaged on tappets on guide block, The front of head
can be tilted up again, holding pushrod tube to head, and observing
that pushrods are in contact with tappet stems. Note-the pushrod
tubes have a vertical mark on each bottom flange. These marks
should be central; that is, the one on the front pushrod tube should
face to the front down tube, and the one on the rear pushrod tube
should face directly back towards magneto.
5. Tighten down cylinder head bolts slightly, then revolve motor and
observe all valves operate properly. Do not tighten down cylinder
head fully until this is done, as if a pushrod is out of place and head
is tightened down, damage may result. If all valves move up and
down normally when motor is revolved, it can be assumed that
pushrods are correctly in place. Cylinder head bolts should be
tightened down evenly, workiqg from the centre to the outside of
block. Tighten each bolt a small amount at a time, once head begins
to seat down.
Difficulty Starting Head Bolts-1946-'194? Models-Occasionally diffi-

culty is experienced in starting head bolts on the 7946-1947 models where
bolts thread into the crankcase sleeve nuts. This is usually due to top
end of crankcase sleeve nuts being slightly sprung off centre. Difficulty
can be overcome generally by grinding a bevel on cylinder bolt end, or
prying with a screwdriver between cylinder block and crankcase sleeve
bolt to spring over. as necessary. As another aiternative, sleeve bolts can
be slackened a fraction of a turn out of crankcase, until cylinder head
bolts are threaded in stightty and then retightened. Finally, tighten bolts
to 45-50 lbs. torque.
Tappet Atljustment-Locate right piston at top of compression stroke
(both valves closed). Adjust tappets so that there is barely perceptible
up and down shake in the inlet rocker, and just perceptible up and dou'n
shake in the exhaust rocker. Revolve motor one revolution to bring left
piston on top of compression stroke and repeat operation.
After a top overhaul valve job, it is advisable to re-adjust tappets
after a short distanee of operation. It is not uncommon for some variaLion
in clearance to take place within the first 100 miles. Adjust with motor
cold. Finally set so that inlet rockers are free to slide without perceptible
shake and with just perceptible shake in exhaust rockers.
350 Twin Crankcase Servicing
Procedure for dismantliag and serviciqg of the crankcase and cam

gear assembly, is generally similar to that of the 500-650 Twin motors
already covered in the preceding section. Attention is drawn to the follouing
points which differ on the 350 Twin.
Right Crankcase Bearing-This is a plain bearing in the form of a
white metal lined steel bushing. Excessive clearance on this bearing is a
common cause of low oil pressure' Standard new clearance is .001" on
sha"ft. If clearance is .003" or over, replacement should be made. Bushing
can be easily driven out if crankcase is heated to boiling u'ater temperature,
using an old bushing of suitable diameter as drift.
Installing Right Crankcase Bushing-Eleat erankcase and carefully
line up bushing so that the flarlge flats register with the crankcase recess
flats. Tap bushing in, using a suitable drift or piece of hardrvood. Norrnally,
no finishing out of bushing is necessary after installing. If clearance of
shaft in new bushing exceeds .003" after installing, shaft should be reground
undersize, and undersize bushing fitted. If undersize bushing is not ar-ail-
able, old bushing can be rebabbitted undersize at an automotire supply
machine shop. Bushing should be bored to give '002"-.0021/z" shaft clearance,
and contraction on installatio;n will close up to give the required clearanee
o1 .g6t7ru_.00Lt,.
Cotl-Rotl Big-Dntls-Refer to notes in Section 3 of this chapter.
Dismantling Crankshaft Assembly-fhe erank throws are secured in

the central fllnuvheel with two pinch boits. After these are removed,
assembly is easily dismantled. Flywheel rim should be clamped in I'ice.
Mark one fly'wheel rim and adjoining crankshaft half so that on assembly
there wili be no doubt as to the right and left sides of flywheel and balance
will be the same. Drive out one crankshaft half by hammer and drift
through flyurheel opening. After one crankshaft half is removed, other
half can be driven out more easily by driving directly through crankpin
hole in flywheel. When this is being done, note that there is a connecting
tube that fits between the two crankshaft halves to make an oit tight
joint. If this does not come out with the crankshaft half first removed,
take care not to damage it when driviag out the other crankshaft half
in which it wiil be fitted. When crankshaft is dismantled, clean out the
oil passag'eways in both crankshaft halves. These should be scraped out
and washed perfectly clean as a considerable amount of sediment collects.
Blow through right crankshaft to make sure passageway is completely
clear from right main bearing before reassembling.
Reassembly of Cranksha,ft-Connecting rods are stamped ,,fly'wheel
side" and should be fitted with the sides of both rods marked in this
manner to fllnyheel. On examination of the rod big-ends, it will be
observed that the bearing lini4g is radiused on the side hext to the crank-
shaft ends, but there is no radius on the side adjoiniag the flyr,vheel, If
xods are replaced the wrong way around, the side of rod big-end without
radius will bind where the crankshaft throw is radiused. Note that the
connecting bushing between the two crankshaft halves is in position in
one crankshaft end before assembling:.
Alignment of Crankshaft-It will be observed that there is a r/2,,
hole bored through both crankshaft counterweights and the fllnvheel. After
assembling, but before thoroughly tightening the flyrvheel pinch bolts, a
length of 7/2" steel drill rod should be placed through these holes. Crank-
shaft throws should be tapped lighily as neeessaiy so that this rod is
as free as possible through these holes.
- Before
should
tightening up fly,rvheel pinch bolts, the crankshaft assembly
be placed in a press or between jaws of a large viee, exerting
pressure centrally on crankshaft throw outer ends so that throw inner
ends make contact within fly'lvheel.
A check should be made on con-rod side clearance and the flywheel
_tg,nned either way as necessary to give approximately equal con-rod
big-end side clearance. This is easily checked'with a feeler gauge. Tap
counterweights as necessary to give alignment providing for ?reeness of
t}:.e Yz" rod through aligning holes, then tighten pinch 6olts securely,
A more precise aligrment of crankshaft can be accomplished by
placing crankshaft assembly in a special jig supporting shafts on bearing
surfaces or if shaft centres are true, between lathe centres. rf this is to
be done it is good policy to leave a short length of a/2,, tod through allgning
holes to maintain approximate flywheet alignment while improvement
in mainshaft alignment is being attempted.
Be sure to tighten pinch bolts very securely and punch-Iock nuts.
386 TR,IUMPH SERVICING
Section 6
TRII]MPH SINGLE MOTOB, SER,VIC.ING

A few notes on Triumph Single servicing, where differing substantially
from the Twin motors more completely covered in this chapter, are
Iisted in this section. These are generally applicable to 1937-1940 models.
Reference should be made to Chapters 4 and 16 for additional information
that can be applied to the servicing of these models.
O.H.V. Singles Cylinder Head troint-No gasket is used, and no
attention is normally necessary before refitting, other than thoroughly
cleaning joint surfaces. If there has been a sign of joint leakage, carefully
lap head onto cylinder with valve grinding compound; wash off well
before assembling.
S.V. Single Cylinder Head Joint-A copper asbestos type gasket is
used and cylinder head bolts should be tightened progressively, working
from the centre to the outside. On this type, head bolts should be
retightened within a few hundred miles after assembly.
III. 162
TBIUMPII O.II.V. SINGLE TAPPET ADJI]STMENT

Tappet adjustment ls l@ated at the bottom of the pushrod tubes. Thls locatlon of tappet
adjustment is used on some other Engush single models, notably Royal-Enfleld, Panttrer
and B.s.A.
TAPPET CLEARANCES-NoI€ that motor la cold when tappet adjustment ls belng made.
On this type where a feeler gauge cannot be used, inlet (rear) pNhrod should be free to
spin wlth barely pereeptible shake and the exhaust (front) pushrod strould be allowed
perceptible shake. Tappet adjustments are called for at 1000-2000-ml1e lntetrals.
TRTUMPH SINGLE MOTOB, SERVICING 3SJ
Triumph Single Crankcase Servicing

The Triumph single crankcase asserribry is of conventional design
.and detailsin section 1 of chapter 16 will bi tound generally afp[cable
to all Triumph Singles.
Cra,nksha,ft Timing GearNut-Note this is left-hand thread.
Fl5rwheel separatio_n-crankpin is a taper fit in frywheels, and
one crankpin nut is undone, fr5rwheers ean bL separated.-by orivins after
chisel or wedge between fl5rwheels near crankpin. a targe
con-Rod Big-End Beari,,g-Double row type rorler bearings are

employed, Y+"xa/+" rollers are used on the 250 -c.c.-850 c.c. mode-ls, anA
/+" xvta" rollers on the b00 cc. models. These rofler"
*rra
"r"crankp-in
smearing cra"nkpin with thick grease wilr hord ro[ers to "rr""gd,wtren
assembling'. BIow through right mainshaft before assemblihg., io *ut
sure that oilway to crankpin is clear. "
crankoase Breather--A diaphragm type crankcase breather is located
in hexagon plug on top reft side of crankcase. rf dismaniled, take care not
to lose disc. An imprope-rly functioning breather *ry -exc-essive
crankcase pressure and oil leakage. "*r.u
ilI, 163
THE TIiIUilIPII SINGLE VAIVE TDITA,G }IARI(S
'Ihe reac cam wheel operates
.the intake valve and the f:o{ .am- \r.heel the exhaust r.cr\.e.
rne ts:- mark on thc i,,tet. (reart
cam wheet shoutd be isnnrF.t..correcrcam *n""1-uia"i'L" r.\ nlark on the rlrontr exllaust
ii-tng-i" ,iuiitri.l lvhen r}le :t,t markirg on thp ri.1r
5.3i,,ir1,1"tli.t" marking on the front'iain'.ul"""i""il il"",,eu \r.r:h rhe rimtns pinion mf,lks
Section 7
IGNITION TIMING
Magneto Timing L946-1r952 Triumph Twins

with Automatic Advance
1. Coat the magneto joint flange with gasket shellac, and mount the
magneto on crankcase.
2. Wipe the taper on shaft and in gear, clean and dry'
plugs and turn motor until pistons a.te 3/a"- before
-- Remove spark (B00-_650
3.
i.p ot strot<e c.c. models) arld t1/22,, before top of stroke
(350 c.c. models).
4. Clean and adjust breaker points .012" gap fully opened, if this has
not already been done.
S.Placegearonshaftandtightennutlightly,butnotsufficientto
grip gear to shaft.
6. Block the automatic advance mechanism in the advanced position.
Thiscanbedonebywedgingablockofwoodorcardboardbetween
tirelipontheplateattachedtott'egearandthemovableplate'so
that the movabie plate is held as far as possible in an anti-clockwise
direction from the fixed Plate.
?. Turn magneto armature via contact breaker end in its mnning
direction, that is, elockwise looking at point assembly or anti-
elockwiselookingatdriveend,untilbreakerpointsjustcommence
to seParate.
S. Using a tube spacer or box wrench that will fit over nut"'fix"
gear hub to shaft with llght tap with hammer'
9. Tighten up nut. F or final tightening g:ve a few light taps with
hammer on wrench.
10. Revolve motor and check that the breaker points just commence
to separate with pistons required amount before top of stroke'
Remove wedge used for blocking advance mechanism'
ll.HighTensionWires-AstheTriumphTwinfiringintervalsare cam or which
exictly evenly spaced, it does not matter on which
cylindlr timing ii done, just so long as the breaker points commence
io op"* in the"right relation to piston movement. After this timing:
lsoftaineO,itis,ofcourse,necessarytofitthehightensionwires
correctty to spark plugs. The simplest method is to just try the
G"u., orr" con-nected to each ptu', and if the motor does not start
onthisconneetion,switchthem.Tobepositivelysurethatthe
wires are correctly conneeted, remove the front high tension pickup
which is the mosi accessible, tur:n motor over until breaker points
just commence to open, with the brass contact of collector ring
lacing this pickup openirlg. The wire from this pickup should be
to tte cytinaer with both valves closed. The other wire,
"orrrrJct.d
of course, goes to other cYlinder'
IGNITION TIMING 389
on the originar assembry, wire from rear pickup goes to right cyrinder,
and- from front pickup to left cylinder.
Automatic Advanco Gea,r Removar-A "withdrawar,, shourder is pro-
vided on the armature shaft nut, which comes into operation after nut is
unwound one or two turns. Further unwinding will enable assembly to
be removed. rf one or two sharp hammer brows on wrench do not rree
gear from- taper, try
gear hub from .a sharp rap on end of nut. This will usually free
shaft taper.
Lucas Advanco Meeha,nism rnspection-This is done without with-
drawing gear hub from..shaft or disturbing timing. Stacten -nut
5ust
sufficiently to remove slotted washer, then cover can bl removed, operation
of the advance mechanism can then be observed, and springs repiacea if
necessary. where there is noticeable rust or dirt -accimuritio" -""
automatic advance mechanism, it should be thoroughly wasfr"a oii.
when reassembling and refitting encrosed type automatie advance
unit, timing should be carried out as Lrready detaii&. trru-"""ioli"!
gan_be fitted after gear hub is fixed to shaft" (No. g, page Bgg) o"-"o?"""o"""
be left off until timing is compreted.; then gear nut cafl
turn or two, but not iufticient to withdra# -cor"u """a
be slackened
hub from sfrrtt,
slotted washer fitted and nut retightened wittrout disturbing'timin;. ana
I
Magneto f,iming lg3g-1940 Twins
Tropfu Mortbls and tgSl'-tgilZ T-100

(With ltrandlebar .4.dvance Control)
-
1. Mount the magrreto on its platform on 198g_1940 models,
and note
that no gasket is.used bgtwegn magnero and the fa"fo oi if,"iimi.rg
cover case. r'it the cork o, seal onto the back or the
drive gear. rnugrruto
2. On the Trophy model and 1951_1952 T_100, mount magreto on

crankcase, applying shellac to flange surface.
3. Clean and set breaker points at .072,, gap fully open
not already been done. if this has
4. Wipe the taper on-shaft. and irl gear, clean. Fit
timing gear to
armature shaft, and tighten nut tighttv, but not surticieit'ti
gear to shaft. on 1940 and earliei *'odel", grip
tighten oo"^- t;r"" o,,u
screw underneath the magneto base, and [ir" *rrorai"g-Joi.-'"t"up
that g'oes over the magrreto and generator.
5. Remove.spark plugs and turn motor until pistons I
top of stroke (7A6, on T-100 for racing). are ys,, before

6. Note that magneto g.ear is free on shaft taper and turn
magneto
armature via contact breaker end, in its runnrng*di;;iionlurrt,
points just commence to separate with the .p"ri
advanced position. tne
"""ir"i'ln
z. using a tube spacer or box wrench that wil fit over shaft nut ..fix,,
gear to shaft with light tap with hammer.
390 TRIUMPH SERVIC]NG
8. Tighten up I'ear nut. E'or final tightening give wrench a few light
taps with- himmer. Recheck the timing to make sure it has not
slipped during the tightening operation.
g.IlighTensionWires-LocateasdetailedunderNo.llonpageSS8'
10. 1938-1940 Models, Magneto Gear oil Seal-After correct timing has
beenobtained,themagnetobasescrewandholdingdownstra'pcan
be slackened off and the magneto pushed as far as possible towards
the]eftsideofthemachine.Thiswillbringthecorkoilseal
washerincontactbetweenthedrivegearandthecrankease'This
needonlybedonewhereoiileakageoccursaroundmagnetodrive.
Magneto shorrld, of course, be tightened down while it is being
pushed towards left side of the machine.
Magneto Timing-Triumph singles-The same procedure as outlined
for the"Twin applies, but note that piston must be on compression stroke
ilotu rrtr,". cl-oied) when timi4g' y'" advance is correct for aII standard
*oa"f" except the S.V. machines, which are 6/ta", and the Tiger timing.
90 model
t1r,, advance. Be sure control lever is in advanced position when
MagnetoandGerreraftorServicing-Refeltosections4and5of
Chaptei 16 for Lucas magneto and generator servicing data'
Section 8
\
GDARBOX, CLI]TCItr ANI} CIIAINS 1
Gearbox Lubrica,tion-Motor oil same grade as for engine, is

correct
r"u,i"u"t.-seepage126.oillevelplugislocatedonrightatrearendof
via the clutch adjustment
learbox inner cover near tool boi. Add oil
inspectioncapoperung.Checkoillevelatl000.mileintervals.Drainand
refitl seasonally or at 5000-mile intervals'
Gearbox Dismantling
Gearbox dismantling should not normally be undertaken until definite

need is indicated, such"as gear failure or excessive main drive
gear ball
developed' On the 1949 and
il-""rl"i or mainstaft bushing wear,hawingmainshaft
earlier" models, fairly rapid wear of the high gear bushings
was experienced and mainshaft should be checked for up and down play
in these bushings whenever primary chaincase is removed'
Kickstarter Gear Mainshaft Nut Loosening-what appears to be
serious gearbox trouble, such as gear jaml.i1g or faiiure to shift properly,
"due to the right side mainshaft kickstarter gear nut slackening
;;-b;
ofi if this nut is found slackened off when outer eover is removed,
"nA dismantling may not be necessary. It should be first thoroughly
i"i.trru*
iig;t"""6 and machine tried out.to_Acentre-punch
foldover lockwasher is used on this
lock the edge of nut to
t"t it is a wise precaution
"it, threads as well, after securely tightening'
shait
. _Gearshift Phmger Sticking-Occasionally in very cold weather par-

ticularly, trouble may be experienced with one of the gearshift plungers
sticking in the depressed position, preventing proper operation of foot shift.
This can sometimes be overcome without dismantiing by pouring hot
water over gearbox end cover, which may free plunger, and also tapping
end cover lightly. when this occurs during cold weather, it indicates need
for changing to lighter oil. Rer,ove the kickstarter cover complete with
kiekstarter and footchange mechanism. This is easily withdriwn after
removal of three nuts and five screws, and disconnecting clutch cable.
Any rust on ratchet spring plungers or in guides should be removed with
emery cloth or penetrating oil.
ff further dismantling is necessary, dismantle clutch next. A puller is
provided in the tool kit for withdrawing the clutch hub from the mainshaft,
rjnless the threads on this puller have been protected when carried with the
tools, they may be badly burred over and threads will have to be cleaned out
with a thread restoring file before puller is serviceable. After puller is
screwed fully into clutch hub, centre screw should be tightened and given a
sharp blow on end with hammer, which should jar clutch hub from shaft
taper. fn some cases, hub will be found a very tight fit on mainshaft, and
applying heat to hub will aid removal.
The chaincase inner cover can now be removed, and the rear drive
sprocket nut undone. Engage high gear and apply rear brake while rear
chain is on, and this wiil hold shaft from turni4g while nut is being undone.
rf a suitable box wrench is not available, a good p.unch and harimer will
enable removal.
Kickstarter mainshaft nut should next be undone, while rear chain
is on and gear is in high, with rear brake applied as for removing sprocket
nut. lf nut is very tight, a few sharp biows with hammer on box wrench
handle will remove.
The kickstarter ratchet clutch bushing, ratchet pinion ,gear, spring:
and washer, can now be withdrawn. Remove the one screw inside and
two at bottom front outside cover that secure it to gear case, and eover
can be withdrawn. rf the mai-nsha.ft is a tight fit in the ball bearing race
in end cover, mainshaft can be tapped on clutch end and taken out with
cover, and can be tapped out after cover is removed.
Next, remove the selector fork shaft and the balance of internal parts
in following order: Layshaft, gears and selector forks with selector shaft.
cam-Plate Eollers-Note the two rorlers that fit on the selector fork
studs and operate in the cam-plate groove, do not 1ose these. The cam-
plate and gear position plunger need not be removed unless replacement is
necessary.
tseplacements-Bearings and bushings need not be replaced until
bushings have a shaft clearance of over .005" and ball bearings a straight
up and down play of over .005". These are outside limits and when gearbox
is dismantled for complete reconditioning, replacements should be made
when clearance is in excess of .003".
Iligh Gear Mainshaft Bushings-It is important to check mainshaft
clearance in these bushings, located in the mainshaft high gear (gear rear
drive sprocket fits on). On the 1949 and earlier models two bushings
were used with a short steel spacer in between. When replacements are
being made, the later type single one-piece bushing should be fitted. After
new bushing is pressed ill, hone if necessary to give ,001,, shaft clearance.
Warm the g'earcase for removal of bushings and bearings, and for
refitting. Note the ball bearings for the mainshaft have retaining spring
rings, which must be removed first and refitted after bearings are replaced.
I(ickstarter Gears-Condition of the kickstarter gears, particularly
the ratchet pinion teeth, should be examined when dismantled. If kick-
starter slipping has occurred, replacement of kickstarter ratchet gear
assembly is advisable. If the leading tooth of the kickstarter sector gear
is burred over, this should be relieved with a file or on grindstone. If
more than the first tooth show signs of wear, replacement is advisable.
Kickstarter SprinS-If this is beiag renewed note that spring end
is engaged in same spline as old spring, and the right way around so that
spring tension increases as pedal is lowered. Tension must be sufficient
to hoid return pedal up easily, but spring should not be wound completely
tight at bottom of starter stroke or premature breakage may result.
Machine should not be operated with a broken starter spring, but if
necessary, hold up with a strong rubber band around pedal and oil tank
filler. Serious damage may result if run some distance with pedal hanging
and starter gears engaged.
High Gear Iooth Breakage-On 1946 machines, after engine number
74760 tlne mainshaft high gear was strengthened by reducing the inside
diameter of the internal dogs which the second gear slide into in the high
gear position. As a result, a reduction in diameter of the second gear
dogs was necessary. Where mainshaft high gear replacement is being
made on the earlier model machines, with a later type gear, it is necessary
to install the new type mainshaft second gear to match. Manufacturer's
part numbers of the new gears are No. T726 mainshaft high gear and
T727 mainshaft second ,gear.
Different Ratio Gears-Top gear ratio on all models, regardless of
tlpe of gear set, is dependent entirely on number of teeth on engine
sprocket. If sprocket teeth are standard, wide ratio, standard ratio and
close ratio, give the same top I'ear ratio, but with varying ratios in first,
second and third gears. The standard ratio gears are standard equipment
on all models except the Trophy which has wide ratio gears as standard.
Close ratio g:ears are available and are suitable for all models. These only
have an application under certain racing conditions. Reference should be
made to the Triumph manufacturer's parts book for details of gears
required to convert to different ratios. It should be noted that although
g:ears up to and including 1949 are interchangeabie, the 1950-1952 type
gears are a different pattern, and are not interclangeable on the earlier
models.
Gearbox Assembly-1936-1949 Type

Note-The gear teeth numbers referred to below, apply to the standard
ratio ,gears.
1. If gearbox is out of frame, assembly is most conveniently carried
out located in vice. Clamp 3/8" bolt vertical in vice and slip lower gearbox
mounting lug over bolt so that open end is up. If gearbox is in machine,
assembly is most conveniently done if machine is leaned weil to the left.
2. Install cam-plate and cam-plate locating spring plunger assembly.
Set the cam-plate in high gear position-with the pointed end towards
GEARBOX, CLT]'ICH AND CHAINS 393
the drive side. Note-If ball bearing is being replaced, gearcase should
be heated for removal and refitting. Mate sure ltrat retlining lockrihg
is refitted,
3. Irrstall drive gear through gearcase ball bearing.
4. Assemble the small diameter selector fork to the mainshaft second
and third gears (19T and 23T) so that part of the fork that fits on selector
shaft is towards the 19T,gear. Locate the selector pin roller to the selector
fork pin with thick g'rease. Instail this gear and fork assembly into gear-
box. Note that fork should be swivelled down slighily towards bottom of
gearbox until the 19T gear dogs engage with drive gear, then the fork
should be swivelled around into position and note that selector roller
eng:ages in cam-plate traek.
5. Onto the long layshaft high gear (19T) slip t]ne 25T and 21T gears.
tr'it the layshaft selector fork (large fork) onto these gears, with the side
of, fork that fits on selector shaft in the direction ot 2lr gear (right side).
Locate the selector pin roller on pin wi.th thick grease. Enter this assembly
into gearbox with selector fork swivelled up slighily, and when in position,
swivel selector fork down so that selector pin roller eng:ag'es with eam-plate
track.
6. Install layshaft with bushings; first install bronze bushing, followed
by steel spacer, bronze bushing and then layshaft. Locate Iayshaft into
drive side g'earcase bushing. tr'it low gear (29T) onto layshaft, dog side in.
7. Mainshaft ean now be fitted,
8. f it the selector shaft, small end first, through the selector forks
noting that selector pin rollers are engaged in cam track. Tap down into
position in g'earcase.
9. Smear the inner gearcase joint surface '"vith a jointing compound
such as gasket g'oo or ,gasket shellae. When installing. gearcase inner
cover, note that as soon as the shifter sector gear enters gearcase, the
gear indicator should be moved to the high g:ear position, and held in this
place while cover is tapped on until joint surfaces come together. Fit and
tighten the three inner gear cover securing screws. one sirew is 1ocated
at front below footchange shaft bushing, two other screws at bottom
outside of cover. Tighten securely.
10. Replace onto the mainshaft, kickstarter parts in the following
order: washer, bushing, spring, ratchet pinion and ratchet clutch. trit new
lockwasher to right mainshaft nut and tighten securely. rt is advisable
to secure nut by centre punch-locking inside edge of nut to shar.t threads
additional to folding over lockwasher tab.
11. ff ,assembly is being completed on the bench, mainshaft can be
prevented from turning by blocking sprocket and tightening with high
gear engaged.
12. If the gearbox is now placed in the frame, and drive sproeket and
rear chain fitted, application of, the rear brake will enable the shaft to be
held sufficiently to permit thorough tightening of both the mainshaft
kickstarter and the final drive sprocket nuts. Drive sprocket nut should
be hammer-tightened and the nut punch-locked into high gear splines in
one or two places.
13. Before replaeing kickstarter cover, observe that the gear pedal
locati4g plungers operate freely. rt is not normally necessary to dismanile
the plung'er assembly to check on springs unless there is obvious lack of
plunger spring pressure or sticking due to rust on plungers. If there is

any rust on plungers or guides, clean out or apply penetrating oil. If
dismantled, tighten the four plunger control plate nuts securely when
reassembling.
14. Before refitting the clutch assembly, it is advisable to try out
the gearshift to ascertain that the gears shift properly and positively.
Mainshaft, of course, must be rotated when testing. If there is lack of
positiveness or difficulty in securing low gear for example, the trouble is
likely in the shifter sector having been meshed a tooth out of time with
the camplate pinion. Evidence of such a mistake will be revealed by the
g'ear indicati4g lever being considerably out of position in relation to
markings,
1950-1952 Gearboxes
These gearboxes are of the same general design as the 1949 and
earlier pattern, but have a modified gear dog design; also the layshaft
and layshaft high gear revolve together, layshaft being supported by
bronze bushes in the gearcase, and inner g:ear cover. Speedometer drive
is by worm from right end of layshaft. Assembly procedure is the same
as detailed above on the 1936-1949 type gearboxes, except reference to
installing layshaft and bushes into layshaft gear, ean be disregarded'
Number of Geat Teeth-The number of teeth on each gear on the
1950-1952 type gearboxes differ from the earlier pattern. On standard
ratio 1950-1952 type, these are as follows: Mainshaft High Gear-26T;
Third Gear-24T; Second Gear-20T; Low Gear on Mairshaft-16T; Lay-
shaft High Gear-20T; Layshaft Third Gear-227; Layshaft Second Gear
Layshaft Low Gear-3OT.
-26T;
Iilentifying Gears-On both layshaft and mainshaft, the extreme left
(drive side) g:ears are identified as "Iligh," next to these "2nd," next
towards right, "3rd," and extreme right side gears are "Iorv."
Mainshaft High Gear Bearing Oil Seal-A spring-ioaded rubber oil
seal is fitted on the 1950-1952 type gearboxes. This should be repiaced
when drive gear bearing is being renewed, or if worn so there is no drag
on mainshaft high gear.
Triumph Clutch
Construction-On the 650 c.c. Twin models, five corked and six steel
plates are used. On the 500 c.c. Twins, four corked and five steel plates.
On the 350 c.c. Twins, three corked and four steel plates' This is an oil
type clutch and the correet quantity of oil for the chaincass ig 1z9 pint
S.A.E. No. 10. When topping up, level should be just completely over the
bottom row of chain. Four individually adjusted springs provide the
pressure.
Clutch Pushrod Adjuster-This is located under the oil fiiler cap on
the right side of gearbox. Turning adjusting screw in reduces cable slack,
and turniqg it out increases slack. Loeknut should be securely retightened
after adjusting.
Clutch Drag a,nd Grinding Going Into Low Gear-This is usually due
to oil sticking the plates together, and they should be freed first before
GEARBOX, CLUTCII AND CHAINS 395
starting up by kicking: down the starter once or twice with the clutch
disengaged, whenever the machine has been standing long. Use of, too
heavy an oil will increase clutch drag. ,s.A,E. number 10-is correct for
normal service, but for operation at below freezing temperatures, 2b/6
kerosene should be added.
- Ijneven
Springs
clutch spring pressure adjustment will also cause clutch drag.
should be adjusted so that sprirlg plate throws off evenly all-around,
when clutch is disengaged. Excessive clutch cable slack will prevent
complete releasiqg, This should be adjusted to 1Aa,,.
Warped steel clutch plates resulting from clutch overheating can
cause clutchdrag. rf other causes have been eliminated, clutch should be
dismantled and steel plates tested on a level surface. Steel plates warped
as much as 1/at" should be replaced.
Clutch Slipping-If this i,s not due to lack of siack in cabte, or
inadequate spring pressure, clutch should be dismaniled and the corked
plates examined. ft will likely be found that these require replacing,
Dismantling clutc-h-unwind crutch spring nuts. when difficurty is
encountered in unwinding spring nuts due to the ,,peg,' on clutch spiing
nut that is provided for locking purposes, catching on spring end, a pen
knife blade or small screwdriver should be wedged between spri4g nut
shoulder and outer end of spring. After spring nut is unwound a fewlurns
difficulty in unwinding is not usually experienced.
After removal of the clutch spring nuts, the outer plate complete with
springs and spring cups, can be rn'ithdrawn, followed by the clutch ptates.
This is all the dismantling necessary for normal elutch servicing.
rf it is desired to remove the clutch hub and sprocket, the clutch hub
mainshaft nut must be first undone. Best method is to engage high gear
and apply rear brake. A few sharp blows to box wreneh handle with
hammer will unwind nut. The clutch hub is a taper fit rvith key_way
on the mainshaft, and removal is rather difficulL without the special pullei,
A pulIer is provided in each rriumph tool kit, that can be used for removal
of the clutch hub, as well as the magneto gear on models with manual
ignition advance. (See II1. No. 164.)
The clutch sprocket run6 on a row of bearing roliers when clutch is
disengaged. Normally, no attention is required to the clutch sprocket
bearing, but if desired to examine, the clutch sprocket shoulcl be supported
and the inner hub pressed or driven out. Attention to this bearinj is not
considered necessary, unless play in bearing allo\.vs considerable wobble
in clutch sprocket.
Ilt.164
TRTU}IPE CLUTCII IIUB PUT,LER,

Clutch hub has internal thread to accom-
modate the threaded pulier. -A.fter screwing
tn to hub, ti8hten puue! screrv and then
strike screw head a sharp rap with
hammer.
By courtesy of
"IIotorcycling"
TRIIIMPH SERVICING
Clutch Plate Beplacements-Clutch plates should be replaced when

corks are worn to rfi" width or less, or "charred" from excessive slipping;
also, if corks are loose in plates. New factory-ground corked plates should
be fitted if available. New cork inserts can be fitted to old plates. Note-
Corks should be a tight fit and if the correct corks are not available,
and these are being made up, they should be eut approximately thz" wider
an:.d the" longer than the holes in plates. When inserting corks, r/z the
corks in each plate should be inserted from one side, and the remainder
from the other side. The best method is to alternate the insertion to avoid
any tendency of the clutch corks to work to one side of the plate.
After corks are inserted, they should be surface ground to %a" width
or rubbed down to this dimension on a sheet of sandpaper tacked to
bench top.
If steel clutch plates are scored or rough from running in steel to
steel contact with the cork inserted plates with worn out corks, they
should be rubbed smooth with emery cloth or replaced. Where clutch has
obviously been overheated, steel plates should be checked on ievel surface
for flatness. If warped 1/e+"-1,A2" or more, they should be replaced, otherwise
clutch drag will likely be experienced.
R'eassembly of Clutch Parts

1. Note key is fitted to mainshaft taper.
2. Eit on clutch hub and sprocket assembly.
3. Fit mainshaft nut flat washer, lock washer and nut.
4. Tighten mainshaft up securely with a good fitting socket rvrench;
to hold shaft, engage high gear and apply brake. Strike box u,rench
handle a few hammer blows, and fold over lock washer. lf a new
fold over lock washer has not been fitted, it is advisable to centre
punch lock inside edge of nut ag'ainst shaft threads.
5. fnstall clutch rod.
6. F'it steel clutch plate onto clutch hub first, followed aiternately by
corked and steel plates. Dip cork plates in No. 10 oil before fitting.
7. Eit clutch spring pressure plate, spring cups, springs and spring
nut's.
8. Tighten clutch spring nuts until aboutl,Az"-lAa" past end of stud,
9. Adjust operating arm clutch rod adjusting screw to provide 110"
eable slack.
10. Operate handlebar clutch lever and observe the throw-off of the
clutch spring pressure plate. Adjust the springs individually as
necessary to obtain even throw-off of this pressure plate.
11. Refit chaincase, using new gasket or one made from !az" gaskeL
material.
12. I"ill chaincase wit}, a/z pint S.A.E. No. 10 oil.
Note-After new corked plates have been fitted, the cluteh cable
should be frequently checked for the required 74s" free cable slack and
adjustment made if necessary, as due to the bedding down of new plates
this clearance may be rapidly taken up.
THE S,U. CARBURETOR 397
rrr, 166
IRIUIIP T'RONT CEAIN ADJUSTMDNT

When slack exceeds 3/a,, at tightest point tn chaln, adjustment should be maale. Slacken the
bottom gearbox pivot bolt and the front otmpin! bolt nut; removal of right footrest and
hanger lmproves accessibility of this nut. Open ena wrencfr can be fitted on endways and
another wrencfl fitted through other end for leverage. Turn adjusting screw seen above under
oil tmk in to tighten chain and out to lo6en; if ]oosening chain, puu geilbox ahead so that
screw- contacts frame by grasping starter pedat. Be sure to reilghten bottom pivot bolt ual
top clamp bolts securely after correct slack of 3/g,,-y2,, is olltained. Finalty tum out rhe
aSiusting screw until pressure is felt. This minimizes possibiliry of gearboi shifring back
rrom re&r chain pull and tightening front chait in operation.
Bear Chain Adjustment-simple set 6crew type rear chain adjustment

is used. Slacken axle nuts and set screw locknuts. Turn screws equally
to allow B/+" up and down play in tightest point of chain midway between
sprockets; retighten axle nuts and set screw locknuts,
Section I
TIIE S.U. CAR,BURET\OR

A car-type S.U. carburetor is fitted to the 1952 Triumph 650 c,c. Twin
model. This differs substantially in design and adjusting procedure from
the Amal type previously used on this machine, and is still in use on the
other Triumph models.
Construction and Opera,tion-Illustration 166 shows cross section view
of carburetor and float chamber. A buttertly type throttle valve is used..
The main feature, however, is the automatically expanding choke. Above
the fuel jet is a piston valve to which is attached meterirlg needle, This
piston valve is not connected to the throttle control. It rises and lowers
automatically by vacuum according' to the amount of throttle opening',
engine speed and loading. This design offers distinct advantages over
other types of carburetors. A high air velocity across the jet is maintained
at all times, and it is impossible to make the motor hesitate or die out due
to extremely sudden opening of the throttle, as is the case with other
types of carburetors. No matter how suddenly the throttle is opened, the
piston valve rises no faster than the required rate to give maximum
acceleration.
29
't5
t4
IIl. 166
SECTIONED VIEW OF TIIE S.U. CARBURETOR

Illustration at left shows details of internal construction of the S.U. carburetor, Fo: serlicing
and adjustinS notes refer to pages 398 to 400. Note the jet lever (No, 23) is mo\ei up flr
cold starting and the running position is fuUy down,
3'1oat chamber details are shown in illustration at rtght. When slackening or tlghtenirg
gas line union nut at float bowl, a wrench should be placed on the flats on iloet 1id lug
where gas feed enters and this wrench held against direction gas llne wion nut is tur.ed.
This precaution will avoid possibility of breakage of float bos'l lid at gas unior.
A few drops of light machine oil only should be applied to the top of suction pistcn guide
rod via top opening in suction chamber every 1000-2000 miles. Suctlon chamber plastic screrv
cap plug should be securely tlgbtened to avoid loss.
Coltl Sta'rting-The mixture control lever No. 23, I11. 166, should be
raised. This lowers the jet, and as the tapered needle position remains
unchanged, allows a richer mixture. The throttle should be opened about
l/e turn, although a greater opening of the throttle has little adverse effect
on starting. As soon as the motor starts, the mixture lever should be
pressed down fully, except in extremely cold u,eather when it may be
neces'sary to operate with the lever up slightly for a short period.
Maintenance-Occasionally the plastic cap at the top of the suction

chamber should be checked for tightness. If this cap is lost, it should be
replaced with one of the correct type as quickly as possibie to avoid dirt
entering' the suction chamber. Note, on some automotive ty'pes, there is
TI{EI S.U. CARBURETOR 399
a small hole in the suction chamber cap, and if one of these caps is fitted,
the hole must be stopped up.
Lutrrication-The suction chamber plastic cap should be removed every
1000-2000 miles, and a few drops of Ught machine oil applied to the top
of the suetion chamber piston rod. This attention is essential to ensure
free operation of the suction piston. Any sticking occurri4g will seriously
affect carburation. Be sure to retighten the oil cap securely.
S.U. Carburetor Adjustrnents

Itlling Speed-The idling speed is simply adjusted by the spring-loaded
throttle lever stop screw. Screwing this in increases idling speed and
screwing out reduces. When making this acljustment, it should be ascer-
tained that there is a slight amount of slack in the operating. control
cable. ff not, screw cable adjuster down slightly so that throttie lever
screw contacts stop on carburetor body.
Mixture-Carburetor mixture can be weakened by turning the jet
lever stop nut No. 18 upwards, and richened by unscrewing downwards.
Note-When making adjustment, if the jet stop nut is turned up, the jet
lever No. 23 must immediately be pushed down fully to note the effect on
idling that the new setting ha;s, as the mixture will not be changed until
the jet lever is fully lowered, and the jet takes up the new position allowed
by raising the jet stop nut, Normally, if mixture is set to give a smooth
idle, the mixture throqghout the speed range will automatically be correct.
A eheck on the correctness of mixture strength can be made by
unscrewing the hexagon plug No. 2g, from below the air intake and with
the engine idling, insert a wire or nail upwards untit it is felt to lift the
suetion piston. Any amo,unt of pi.ston lift over %2,, should cause the motor
to stop. If it is possible to lift the piston as much as %0,, without stopping,
and a gain in speed takes place, it indicates the mixture strength is too
rich,and the jet lever stop nut No. 18 should be screwed up %1urn to 1
full turn, iet lever lowered, and the operation repeated. Be iure to replace
air intake screw No. 29 alter making this test,
Needre Position-The standard setting of the needle is with the bottom
of straight shouldered end of needle flush with bottom o piston, as shown
in Ill. 166. The only adjustment recommended is inserting needle thz,,
further in, where the jet adjusting nut requires to be lowei than B full
turns down from the topmost position to give a sufficiently rich mixture.
Jet and Needle sizes-The jet size should require no alteration. rjnder
conditions where sufficient range of adjustment is not provided by the jet
lever sLop nut and needle movement, a different needle should be obtained.
rt is most unlikely that this will be required, however, and before changing
needle, carburetor should be carefully checked to ensure that there are
no air leaks, and that no sticking of the suction piston is occurring. rt
should also be ascertained that spark plu,gs are clean, the ignition is timed
eorrectiy and that the.advance is functioning,
Carburetor Air Cleaner-The 1952 Triumph T\rin models with S.U.
Carburetor have a large capacity air cleaner, and the manufacturers
advise against disconnecting the air cleaner. Disconnecting the air cleaner
is more likely to impair than improve performance on this particular model
Stieking of Suction Piston-The symptoms are usually failure of

engine to idle slowly when throttle is elosed, or lack of power accompanied
by excessive fuel consumption. When the engine is not running, the
piston should rest on the bridge No. 28, III. 166. When raised by means
of a rod inserted through hole No. 29 to its highest position against the
appreciable resistance of the spring, and then reieased, piston should drop
freely and strike the bridge sharply and distinctly. If piston does not
drop freely or does not break away from its position of rest on the bridge
readily when an attempt is made to raise it, the jet should be lowered
by raising the mixture lever and the test repeated. If the symptoms
persist, it indicates that piston is sticking in suction chamber or piston
rod is not sliding freely within its bush. If this sticking has been eliminated
by raising the mixture lever and lowering the jet, it indicates that friction
is taking place between the jet and needle, and recentering of the jet in
relation to the needle should be undertaken.
Servicing Suction Charnber-Remove the suction chamber, withdraw
the piston and thoroughly clean in gasoline or solvent. Apply a few drops
of light machine oil to the piston rod. Replace piston in the suction
chamber and test for freedom to rotate and slide. If rubbing should occur
between the large diameter of piston and suction chamber, any slight
high spot on the inside of suction chamber should be carefully removed,
taking care to remove no more metal than necessary. IJnder no circum-
stances, howevet, should the suction chamber bore be generally enlarged
or the diameter of, the piston reduced. A limited clearance between these
parts is essential to satisfactory operation.
Recentering Jet a,nd Needle-This should not normally be necessary
except after dismantling and reassembly. The jet stop nut No. 18 shoutd
be first screwed upwards as far as possible. The jet head then being
raised to contact it so that the jet is in its highest possible position. The
locking screw No. 15 should now be loosened sufficiently to release tiie
jet and jet bush assembly (5), (13) and (14), to permit lateral movement
of these parts. The piston should now be raised and maintaining the jet
in its highest position, the piston should be allowed to drop. This u.111
cause the needle to be driven fully into the jet and thus bring about the
required centralization. The locking screw, No. 15, shoutd nou'be tightened
and jet returned to its former position. Should any indication of contact
between needle and jet persist, which may sometirnes occur due to further
displacement of assembiy on final tightening of the locking: scre\lr No. 15,
this must be again slackened off and the operation repeated.
Air Cleaner Servicing-Air cleaner should be serviced at 1000-mile
intervals. Wash element in gasoline, dip in No. 20 oiI, drain, and refi+".
The same servicing: appiie,s to other Triumph models, rvith air cleaners
fitted to Amal cartruretors.
Operation lilith Aircleaner-The manufacturers advise against oper-
ation of machines equipped with the S,U. Carburetor without aircleaner.
The aircleaner used with this equipment is of larger capacity than used
on the earlier Amal equipment and does not impair maximum performance.
FORKS, F'RAME AND WHEELS 40L
Section 10
FOB,KS, F'EAME AND WIIEELS
Triumph Ielescopic Forks
Lubrica,tion-S.A.E. No. 20 oil is recommended for normal service.

f,'or operation in below freezitg temperatures, S.A.EI. No. 10 oil should be
used, and for operation in conditions of extreme heat and heavy loading,
in some instances S.A.E. No. 30 oil may give better results, but under no
conditions should a heavier grade of oil be used.
Changing Fork Oil-If there has been ho evidence of oil leakage around
the fork lower legs, it should not be necessary to give attention to oil
supply more often than at 5000-mile intervals, or seasonally where sub-
stantial charlge in temperature occurs, As there is no convenient method
of checking the amount of oil in forks, the simplest procedure is to drain
and refill with required amount. Proceed as follows:
1, Take weight off front wheels by placing a block under motor.
2. Slacken the large cap nuts on top of each fork leg:, B. (Ill. No. 16?.)
On models equipped w.ith nacelle, the headlight front and reflector
should be removed and the small hexag:on screw towards the top
end of each fork main tube, unscrewed.
3. Remove oil drain screws at the bottom and rear of each leg (No. 12)
and allow oil to drain.
4. Replace oil drain screws, make sure that fibre washers are in good
condition, and that these screws are securely tightened. If there
has been any evidence of leakage, at the same time it is advisable
to check the tightness of ths 7/r6rt hexagon cap screws at the bottom
of the fork legs (No. 50).
5. Forks can now be refilled with 1/6 pint of S.A.EI. No. 20 oil,
supplied to each leg. Oil can be poured into legs by lifting the cap
screws, pulling the springs over to one side and using a small
measure or funnel. When retightening cap nuts (No. 3) make
sure the threads start correcily, and tighten these very securely.
On models fitted with naeelle, oil can be supplied to forks via the
screw, openings in the main tubes, accessible when the headlight
assembly is removed. A pressure type oil squirt can is useful lor
this job. The 1,zG pint quantity should first be measured off and
care taken that this amount is supplied. to each leg. If suitable
equipment for supplying oil through these screw openings is not
available, the top of nacelle should be removed and oil supplied
via top leg cap screw openings as described. above.
Front Bra,ke Spring Rod-Squeaking in the fork operation is invariably
due to this rod being dry and rubbing in the guide on the fork leg. This
is best overcome by greasing rod a"nd fork leg guide, whenever machine
is lubricated or more often as necessary to eliminate squeaking.
Steering' Ilead Bearing Adjustment-Need for steering head bearing

adjustment can usually be detected by applying the front wheel brake
and endeavouring to push the machine backwards and forwards, at the
same time looking or feeling for movement between the frame head and
fork top race dust cover. Adjustment is generally required at intervals
of 5000-10,000 miles. To adjust, slacken the steering head pinch bolt
(No. 36). Remove steering damper knob and tighten steering: stem head
nut (No. 1), using moderate pressure as far as possible, then slacken off
about 1,4o turn. Retighten pinch bolt and refit steering: damper knob.
Stiff Fork Spring Action-This is sometimes due to the left hand
fork ieg being positioned slightly out of alignment when the axle pinch
bo,lt is tightened. Whenever front wheei is instalied, the right side axle
nut should be first tightened. The left leg pinch bolt should be left
slackened, or better still, removed and a screwdriver wedged in the split
encl, while the forks are operated up and dolvn a number of times. This
will allow the fork leg to slide on axle and centre itself. Pinch bolt should
then be tightened. Normally, the axle end projects altout )bz" past the
outside of left leg.
FOR,I( I,EG EXAMINATION PROC'EDUR,E
It is not necessary to remove the complete fork assembly to examine

the springs or damper tubes. This ean be done as follows:
(a) Remove front wheel brake lever pin and front brake cabie
assembly.
(b) Take load off front wheel by placing block under motor and
remove wheel.
(c) Unscrew large cap nuts on top of each fork leg. (Remove nacelle
top where fitted.)
(d) Unscrew tlne 7Aa" hexagon head cap screw at the bottom of each
fork leg (No. 50).
Note-At this point the springs, damper tube and rod assem-
blies can be removed as units from the top end and if trouble has
been damper rods sticking in guides, the removal of the lon'er
fork legs detailed below under (e) lvill not be necessary.
(e) Unscrew the sleeve nut (No. 9) at the top of each lo\\-er fork
Ieg. This is the part that shows when the front u'heel is lou'ered.
Note-This is notched at the top for a "9" wrench. If \^,'ith-
out a suitable wrench, it can be unscrewed easily with a pipe
wrench, securing the lower fork 1eg by placing a bar through
the axle hole. The lower fork legs will come right off the bottom
of the main fork tubes.
The springs can be removed, either by unscrewing the cap nuts from
the damper rods, holding the damper rods just above the fork spring
with vice grip pliers or the springs can be removed after dismantling
of the damper tube assembly from the lower end. Damper tube assembly
can be disinantled by unscrewing the damper tube top guide (No.41).
This will enable the damper rod to be removed, complete with damper
cup assembly. Illustration 167 shows the correct order of assembly of
these parts.
tr.ORKS, T'RAME AND WHEELS 403
Fork Leg Sticking-ft is most likely that the damper rod will be
found to be bent or scored from seizing in the damper tube guid.e. lf the
damper rod is considerably scored, replacement is recommended. If
replacement rod is not available, however, the old rod can usually be
re-used by straightening and emerying smooth. This rod should be a
free fit in the damper guide. When reassembling the damper rod; cup
assembly, note order of assembly-First pin (No.43), Cup (No.44), open
end up, followed with restrictor (No.45), shouldered end up. Nut (46)
should be securely tightened.
Loss of Damping Aetion-This can be due to the nut (No. 46)
dropping off the damper rod or shearing of the pin (No.43).
When reassembling, make sure that damper tube top guide (No. 41)
is securely tightened onto the damper tube.
Engagement of I)a,mper Eube Bottorn Feg in Bottom of Fork Leg
Hole-When refitting the damper tube assembly into the lower leg, before
tightening up securing eap screws (No.50), make certain the peg on the
bottom of the damper tube body (No. 48) registers with the hole in the
bottom of the fork leg. Then tighten up screw (No. 50) securely.
I'OR,I{ R,EPLACEMENTS
It is unlikely that any replacement will be required under 20,000
miles except under very severe operating conditions, Earlier replacement
of the upper fork tube bearing (No. 17), and possibly the lower bearing
(No. 51) may be required where machine has been operated off paved
roads. Ingress of dirt and water past the felt (No. 19) is responsible for
premature wear on these two bearings. \[4ren these bearings are replaced
it will usually
be found necessary also to replace felts.
Fork Spring Repla,cernent-Springs are made in three lengths. Original
equipment and identification marks are as follows: White-350 c.c. Red-
500-650 c.c. Green-500 c.c. Trophy. Blue-500-650 c.c. Sideca,r. The new
Ie4gth of 350 c.c. type springs is 795/a", and 500-650 c.e. types 20". Springs
shortened 1" or more from standard length should be replaced.
FORK ACCIDENT DAMAGE

I'ork legs may be put out of line as a result of minor aecidents due
to the fork top head lug rotating slightly on the fork stem. If no parts
have been bent, this trouble can be corrected by slackening the steering
head pinch bolt nut (No. 86) and the botts (No. 6) that clamp the main
tubes in the steering stem lower lug (No. 31), left side axle pinch bolt
nut (15) and operating forks by moving handlebars up and down. If no
bends have resulted, the legs will readily come back into line, and these
parts can be tightened up again, if visible bend or other dama"ge has
occurred, it is recommended that complete fork assembly be dismantled.
Parts should be checked as detailed below.
(a) Fork Main Tubes Rernoval (No. 8)-Removal of main tubes is
effected by slackening steering stem lower lug pinch bolts (No.
6). ff fork leg damper.rod and damper assembly has not already
been removed, grip damper rods with pliers and unscrew cap nuts.
After removal of headlight and top crown Iug, fork main tube
and lo'wer leg assembly can be withdrawn downwards. Top tube
ru. 167
TRIUMPE TELESCOPIO
PLUNGER I'ORI.S
This illustration showing the
T?iumph Pluger Forks part-
ly dismantled reveals con-
structional and assembly
tletails.
Models wlth Nacelle are of
similar construction except
the fork headlight brackets
are replaced by the lower
Nacelle sections. After re-
moval of headlight artl Na-
ceue top, serYlcing details
are the same.
tr'oRKS, FRAME! AND WHEELS 405
cover with headlight bracket can now be removed sideways off

lower lug; a sharp hammer blow under fork top crown will free
from main tube tapered ends. Removal of lower leg and damper
assembly has already been covered under "X'ork Leg Examination."
(b) Fork Main Tubo Straightening-These can be rolled on a level
surface or tested between lathe centers. It has been found that
reliable service can be o,btained after properly straightening
main tubes which are not bent in excess of Tta", total off center
measured at end of tube. ff over this amount of bend has occurred
straighteni4g should not be attempted and the main tubes
should be replaced. The straightening of these tubes should be
carefully done-tubes being properly supported on curved shaped
bloeks and pressure applied with a similar block on the high
spots. The springy nature of this metal makes it necessary to
apply pressure to bend somewhat in the opposite direction as
the tube will spring back considerably when pressure is released.
It is better, however, to apply pressure a number of times,
making a careful check after pressure is slackened off rather
than bend too far.
(c) Fork Stem and Crown-After tubes have been straightened, they
can be placed through their holes in the stem crown and checked
for being parallel by layiqg a length of steel rod across tubes
at each end and viewing'. If, when tubes are clamped in their correet
locations in the stem lower Iug, it is found that they are out of
parallel more than 12" at tt,e lower ends, stem and crown should
be replaced. If less than this, straightening can usually be
effected satisfactorily cold by clamping one side of stem iower
croiwn in a sul:stantial vice and placing a suitable bar through
the other main tube hole and exerting necessary pressure. When
doing this, the lower pinch bolts should be tightened, Bend in
the top erowrr (No. 2) is unusual, but can occur as a result of
severe accident damage. If after the tubes are clamped in the
fork stem lug the top crown can be fitted on readilv and the
tubes register without any appreci.able amount of springing,
it is a fair indication that these parts are in satisfac-tory
alignment.
(d) Lower Legs (No. bushing (No. 1Z) fitted in top end
!!)-Witfr
of legs, bushing (No. 51) fitted on bottom end of main lubes
should slide up and down freely. If legs are noticeably bent, they
should be repraced as it is i.mpracticar to straighte"n. rf there
should be just a smarl dent in regs, which is preventlng satisfactory
operation, this can sometimes be carefully tit"A aowi, then honed
out on the Sunnen bushing grinder.
COMPLETE F.oBIt R;EMoVAL PRoCEDIIR,E
1. Remove front wheer brake lever pin and complete brake cable
assembly.'
2. Place block under motor to take load off front wheel.
B. Remove right axle nut and sracken left side axle fork pinch bort.
Remove brake anchor bolt. Tap out axle to the left and wheel wili drop out.
406 TRIUMPH SE}RVICING
4. Remove front mudguard.

c. r-llsconnect wrres inside headlight and remove. (On models equipped
with Nacelle, remove headlight front, Nacelle top, disconnect speedometer
drive and wiring plug-ins.)
6. Remove speedometer.
7. Remove handlebars. Note-Put some packing on top of the tank
before resting handlebars on tank to avoid scratehing.
8. Remove steering damper knob and also steering damper anchor
plate boit at the bottom of steering head.
9. Slacken the two large hexagon cap screws on top of each fork leg'
10. Slacken steering head pinch bolt. Remove top stem nut.
11". Tap the top fork cror,vn free from the plunger legs with hammer
while supporting forks with one hand under fork stem lower crown, as
soon as the top piece is removed, the whole fork assembly can be lowered
away from the frame. Note-Avoid losing any of the steering head balis.
IiEFITTING COMPLETE FRONT I'ORK ASSEMBLY

1. Fork Stem R'aces-Condition of the raees should first be examined.
If machine has covered appreciabie mileage, it is possible that the lou'er
race in the frame head lug and the lower race on the steering stem
may be pitted. In this event, replacement should be made, othenvise
steering wilt be heavy. Steering races in head lug are just pressed in
and the lower race can be driven out from above, using a steel rod.
When fitting new race, make certain that it is squarely fitted. It can be
driven in with hammer and block of hardwood.
2. After cleaning fork races, fill with stiff grease and then inselt
balls in frame head races as follows: 350 c.c. Model-Top and bottom
frame cups 22 Yro" balls. 500-650 c.c. Models-Top frame crtp 22 %0" balls;
lower frame cup 20 y4tt ba7ls. This stiff grease will hold the balls from
dropping out during assembly. It is most important that no more than the
number of balls specified should be fitted.
3. Slacken the steering head lug pinch bolt on forks and remove the
steering head sleeve nut.
4. Completely slacken the tlvo large hexa,gon nuts on top of each
fork plunger. Tap the top fork lug free from forks and lift up as far as
springs will permit.
5. Remove steering damper anchor bolt and the top bearing race
from fork stem together with the dust cap. Place race and dust cap onto
top bearing in frame.
6. Fit forks to frarne-By inclining the steering head to the rear and
holding up on the fork top lug to the fullest possible extent. Push up
on the base of the steering damper so that the bottom head race fits
right into the lower cup and balls. Then insert the steering damper
anchor plate bolt. ff this bolt is tightened while the forks are held up
it will reduce the tendency for bottom balls to drop out of place.
7, Tap down the top race and dust cap right into place if these
have become disturbed during this operation.
I'ORKS, ERAME AND WHEELS 407
, 8, Tap down the fork top lug into position. Then fit and tighten down
the steeriqg stem sleeve nut (No. 1) with moderate pressure. This nut
will be found easier to turn if it is well oiled. Before procebding further,
fiII eaeh fork plunger wittr 1/a pint oil, S.A.E. No. 10 winter, ana S.a.p.
No. 20 summer. This can be poured into legs past the springs. tr'it axle
in position through lower fork ends to align fork legs at lower end then
tighten the large top hexagon cap screws securely. Tighten down ilre
steering head top sleeve nut snug then back off tho turi to give slight
bearing' clearance. Note-If the bearing balls are properly in-place, the
fork bea-rings should then be perfecily free. Tigh[en-ttre steering head
pinch bolt secureiy.
9. Fit handlebars and connect up clutch control, throtile twist grip,

dip switch, horn and ignition cut-out buttons. Note-Lubricate the right
handlebar and twist grip assembly before fitting. Locate this grip so
that the front brake lever does not strike the twist ,grip cable outer
sleeve nut when applied. Then tighten securing screw. Lubricate control
cables.
10. Mount speedometer, fit light cable and drive cable. (Refit headtight
and reassemble Nacelle on models with this equipment.)
11. Check the fork plunger bottom cap screws and rear drain screws
for tightness. I'it front mudguard, but do not tighten.
12. Install front wheel and fit axle washer outside fork le,g against
right side nut, leave left fork end pinch bolt slack.
13. Fit and tighten the brake anchorage bolt but before tightening
right fork leg pinch bolt, operate forks with front wheel on gTound by
lifting up and down on handlebars so left leg positions itself correcily
on axle end, then tighten pinch bolt nut.
14. Check lower stem crown fork tube pinch bolts (No. 6) for
tightness.
15. Centralize front mudguard between fork legs and tighten all
mudguard support bolts. Note that mudguard does not rub on fork legs
and that spacing between the mudguard support and front tire is
approximately equal. Centralizing of mudguard between forks is con-
trolled by lowering or raising the left mudguard support clip. rf too much
to the left, tap it up slightty. When in correct position tighten securely.
16. Connect and adjust front brake. Control is most easity fitted if
weight is on front wheel. connect handlebar end first, after cable has
been put through fork guide. Do not overlook fitting the cotter pin in
the lever pivot pin on brake arm. Note-That cabte adjuster mounting:
is unscrewed from the brake plate three or four turns so that the inner
brake cabie does not bind on the stand pivot bolt head. Grease front
brake rod and guide.
NOTE-The procedure detailed above covers installation of a complete

fork assembly that has aiready been completely assembled on the bench.
When forks have been completely dismaniled they can be built up onto
the ma-chine and in this event the first step is to install the fork stem
with lower crown lug with bearings into the frame head, tightening down
the top stem nut (No. 1) and adjusting head bearings.
408 TRIUMPH SERVICTNG
Legs can then be assembled individually to fork stem lug: on machine.

Note that top leg cap nuts should be tlghtened up, drawing main tube
fully up into top crown tapers before tightening' lower stem crown pinch
bolts (No.6). Before fully tightening cap nuts and pinch bolts install
front axle to ensure good alignment of legs.
Front Wheel Axle Installing-Difficulty is sometimes experienced in
getting the shoulder on left end of axle to enter left fork, This can be
minimized by machining, grinding or filing a chamfer on this shoulder
to assist entry. Wedging' a screwdriver in bottom pinch bolt slot with
bolt removed will open hole and ease fitting. Do not overlook final tighten-
ing of pinch bolt. This should be done after forks have been operated to
allow left leg to position itself on axle end for best alignment.
GIBDEB TYPE FORI(S (1940 and Eaxlier)
Fork Spintlle Bushes-These are removable and can be driven out

and new bushings tapped in with a hammer and drift when replacements
are necessary.
['orks Spindle Link Adjustment-Slacken both spindle nuts, to take
up end play, screw the squared end of spindle in clockwise. To give more
linkside play screw spindle out anti-clockwise. Adjust spindle squared
end about 1/+ trrn at a time, then tighten both nuts and check. Knurled
washers between forks and links should be free to turn, but with no
perceptible sicle play.
Irr" 169
BDAR, I!'IIDEL BRAKE ANCIIORAGE

Note that peC "A" on brake plats must engage wltb anchor slot "Il" on the lnslde of left
fork when refitting rear wheel. A rigid type wheel is shom. On the spring rear s'heel, an
axle locating arm fits into the same frame stot and brake anchor attachment is at brake
pedal shaft.
Rigi<l Rear Wheel Bearings-These are tapered roller type and when
side play measured at rim reaches 7Aa"-?52", should be adjusted as follows:
Slacken axle nut on side opposite brake, slacken inside locknut next to
fork, tighten cone adjusting nut tight with moderate pressure, back off
Y+ of a full turn, retighten locknut and axle nut.
Wheel bearings should not be over-lubricated or g:rease may reach
brake linings. On hubs fitted with grease nipples five or six shots from
gun at 1000-mile lubrication periods is adequate, On hubs without grease
nipples, dismantling, cleaning out o1d grease and repaeking half full with
fibrous wheel bearing' grease or medium grease, is recommended at 20,000-
mile intervals.
tr'ront VYheel Bearings-The same type of adjustable tapered roller
bearings as fitted to the rear were used on models up to 1940, 1946
and later front wheels with telescopic forks have non-adjustable ball
bearings.
Rear Wheel Tire Security Bolt-The Twin models are equipped with
rear wheel tire security bolt, X'or tire changing proeedure refer to Tire
Seetion of Chapter Four, page 157. Note that security bolt nut must
be slackened right off before tire can be removed and when refitting care
must be taken to get bolt inside tire between tube and bead, not between
tire and rim. When correctly fitted it should be possible to easily depress
security bolt into tire when pressed with thumb before inflating. Tighten
security bolt nut after inflation.
Rear Brako Adjustment-Knurled knob on end of brake rod. Pedal
height is adjustable by set screw and locknut on pedal.
Front Brake Adjustment-Knurled knob at bottom end of front brake
outer cable on right side of forks.
Triumph Spring Eear Wheel

There are two types of Triumph spring wheels in use. Both have the
same general design, but differ slightly in constructional details. The
differences are detailed below.
Mark 1 Spring Wheel, '1948-Early 1950 Models-This wheel can be
identified by the g:rease nipple fitted in ends of axle and the smooth
exterior to the right side hub cover plate. Adjustable type ball bearings
are used, adjustment being effected by shims between wheel hub and right
side cover plate. See IIl. 171.
Mark 2 Spring Wheel, Late 1950-1952 Models-No g'rease nipples are

fitted to the axle on this type, and this wheel is most easily identified by
the ribbed cover plate on right side of hub. Self contained non-adjustable
ball bearings are used. The wheel originally is supplied with sufficient
lubrieant for 20,000-30,000 miles of operation.
Servicing Requirements-Mark 1 Vlzheel-Grease gun lubrication
should be provided at 1000-mile intervals. Wheel bearing play should be
checked occasionally, and when this develops to in excess of he"-%n"
measured at rim, adjustment should be effected by removing shims.
Servicing Requirements-Mark 2 Wheel-Unless some mechanical

failure should occur, no dismantling for servicing will likely be necessary
at under 20,000-30,000 miles, at which mileage disma.ntling and replenishing:
g'rease supply and adjusting axle roller elearance with shims if necessary,
is recommended.
Spring Box Breakage-A few cases of breakage of the spring box
on the Mark 1 wheel have been experienced, and a number of, cases of
breakage on the early Mark 2 wheels have been experienced. ?he breakages
have been attributed to material defect by the manufacturers, and the
strength of spring boxes now being' produced is stated to be sufficient
to eliminate likelihood of further trouble with this part. When 1950 model
machines with the early Mark 2 type wheel are being serviced, however,
it is a wise precaution to remove the spri4g box assembly, and examine
for an sign of fracture developing at ends, as breakage of spring'box in
the course of operation can cause considerable damage. If there is any
doubt about the serviceability of this part, it is wise to replace.
Irr, 1?0
TR,IUIIPII SPRING IITIEEL SPR,ING CO}IPB,DSSION JIG
that the Triumph manufacturers recom-

Thrs illustration shows the simply eonstructed Jig
mend be used for compressing the springs on assembly and dismantling. O\rners and
mechanics are cautioned against attempting to separate the inner spring box halves without
the use of this jig as the springs are assembled under considerable pressure and there is
great danger of injury if jig is not used.
F'ORKS, I''RAME AND WHEELS 411
Spring Box Separation Caution-Separation of the spring box halves

should not be attempted without the use of the special jig for compressing
and holding springs. The springs are assembled under considerable pressure
and it is dangerous to attempt dismantling without having spring box
installed in jig.
Spring lilheel Remova,l-Removal procedure is quite straightforward.
After removal of rear section of tail guard, slacken axle nuts, remove
brake rod knurled nut, Iocate rear chain conneeting link; enga,ge high gear
before removing elip and link so that chain does not roll off gearbox
sprocket. Remove locknuts and bolt from the brake anchor plate link,
and wheel can be withdrawn.
Refitting tho Spring Wheel-Procedure is exactly the reverse of
removal. Note that the axle anchorage lever fits into the channel on the
left side frame.
. Dismantling the Mark 1 Spring TVheel

Beforo Dismantling-Note should be made of the amount of, wheel
bearing clearance. If there is just perceptible clearance before dismantling,
removal of one shim on assembly should be tried. ff there is considerable
clearance, two shims should be removed.
1. Pry off the axle to frame anchor arm from left end of axle, followed
by the two split collars that fit in axle Sroove. Remove the collars, springs
and dust plates from each end.
2. Mount the axle in vice with right side of wheel up. Unless soft vice
jaws are used, protect axte with soft sheet metal. Tighten vice securely'
3. Remove the ten nuts followed by the right side hub outer plate
and shims.
4. Now clamp the right end of axle in vice, protecting from vice jaw
damage, and unscrelv the brake anchor plate in anti-clockwise direction.
5. Bra,ke Plate Threatls Sticking-Often troubie is experienced in
unscrewing the brake anchor plate on the Mark 1 type wheels, due to the
brake plate threads seizing on the aluminum spring box threads. It is
gocid policy to appty penetrating oil and allow to soak for an hour or two
where this difficulty is experienced. Make sure that the axle is well
protected from the vice jaw damage, and tighten vice very securely. It
may be necessary to apply a few hammer blows to brake plate anehor
arm to get moving. Note this is an ordinary right hand thread and
unscrews in an anti-clockwise direction. The brake lever return spring
causes some brake shoe friction, and this is overcorne by disconnecting
spring' or holding the brake lever ahead slightly.
6. Remove the spring box assembly from hub.
7. Bearing Races-The bearing races can now be examined, and unless
noticeably worn or pitted, there is no need to replace. Outer races are
most easily removed by applying heat to hub plate and hub, when they
can easily be tapped out. fnner races fitted to spring boxes are most
t
t easily removed if the aluminum spring box is "chilled."
I 8. Sliiling Block Shim Adjustment-Sliding blocks should have about
F
.002" clearance on either side against the curved bearing blocks, loeated
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F'ORKS, X'RAME AND WHEELS 413
at ends of each spring box. If cleararce is in excess of, .004", adjustment

should be made. Note the curved bearing blocks are secured by screws
through the spring box, and shims can be inserted behind bearing blocks
as necessary to reduce clearance.
9. Spring Box Disrna,ntling-It is not recommended that dismantling
of the spring box be undertaken unless it is desired to make replacement
of spring box or springs, or definite need for dismantling is indicated.
Dismantling should only be undertaken with the special jig, as due to the
pressure on springs when assembled there is great danger of injury to
the operator if an attempt is made to separate without special jig. The
procedure to dismantle is to remove the six nuts and bolts securing spring
box halves, and tap the cases about B/a" apart. This assembly should be
placed in the special jig (see page 410), with the curvature of the box
towards the jig. Screw down the jig until the springs are compressed
sufficiently to remove cases.
10. IJnscrew the jig until all spring tensioh is released.
Assembling the Mark 1 Spring Wheel

1. Slitling Block Shim Adjustments-ff need for adjustment was
evident on dismantling, or if new spring box is being fitted, this is best
adjusted before assembling, fitting the axle assembly into spring box
without springs. Wheel bearing races must be removed to enable removing
screws for replacing shims behind the curved bearing block in hub.
2. After all parts have been thoroughly clea"ned, grease spri4gs and
insert the heaviest and lightest springs together, into the bottom hote of
the axle spring container. If axle is placed on bench with concave side
of spring: container down and long end of axle to left, the bottom end. is
towards the operator. X'it the single medium spring into other end. Place
the rubber buffers and spring plates over spring ends.
3. F it the assembly to the spring compressing jig, and rotate springs
as necessary so that the spring curvature conforms with the axle spring
container.
4. Tighten down spring compressor sufficiently to enable the aluminum
cases to be fitted. Fit cases as close tqgether as jig will allow; unserew
jig and remove assembly. When fitting cases, note that they are correctly
fitted with the ends mark "top" up. The threaded end of spring box fits
on the left side over the long end of axle. Before tapping the ca.rses
together,fill with abo:ut Yz lb. grease, preferably graphite grease. E it
and tighten up the six nuts and bolts.
5. Grease the balls and retainers and install in outer plate and hub
with the sides of retainer from which balls extend first, the ball side of
retainer being to the outside of hub on both sides.
6. Note that sliding blocks are refitted with curvature to match
spring box. Lubricate liberally with graphite grease.
7. F it shims to hub, and replace hub cover plate. Note-If there was
just perceptible bearing clearance before dismantling, removal of one shim
from the original number may prove sufficient. Bearing must be pedectly
free without any perceptible shake after hub cover plate nuts are
tightened. Do not mistake slight play between the axle sliding block and
guide for bearing clearance.
474 TRIUMPH SERVICTNG
8. Screw on the brake anchor plate. If difficulty was encountered

in unscrewing this, it may be advisable to carefully scrape out threads
with an internal threading tool. After tightening brake anchor plate
fully, turn back sufficientiy to relieve any drag'ging and for correct position
for lining up with brake anchor link on frame. To ensure wheel is installed
with spring box the right way up, note that end of brake anchor arm is
positioned on the inside of spring box and sliding block guide arcs. The
larger space in axle guides is then below the axle as required. Refit the
dust excluder plates, springs and collars.
9. Fit the two split collars in groove on left end of axle. Over these
fit the axle to frame anchor arm. Note-If this is a loose fit on axle
flats, it should be replaced. tr'it arm in direction of brake anchor arm.
Disrnantling the Mark 2 Spring T[heel

1. After removal of wheel from frame, remove axle nuts and spacer
collars, and pry off the axle frame anchor arm. Remove the two split
collars in axle groove under this arm.
2. Remove the dust excluder center sleeve, spring and sliding portion,
IJnscrew the two 'screws securing the dust cover to brake plate, remove
this and the right side cover which can be pried off.
3. Before dismantling further, the axle rollers should be checked
for freedom of rotation and clearance tretween roller and bearing blocks
in hub checked with a feeler gauge. If roller rotates freely, and the
clearance is not in excess of .002" on each side, no attention will be
necessary. ff clearance exceeds this amount, note should be made of the
amount of clearance, so that necessary shims can be fitted behind lhe
sliding blocks in the hub before assembly.
4. Brake plate can now be removed.
5. Remove the ten nuts securing'the right side hub cover plate. Remove
cover plate and shims.
6. Withdraw spring box assembly from hub.
7. Unless it is desired to replace the rear wheel sprocket. it is not
necessary to remove brake drum and sprocket from hub.
8. Bearing Rernoval-The bearings in this type of hub are non-adjust-
able, and normally have a very Iong life. If removal is necessarl'. beal-ing
from the right side cover plate is most. easily removed by heating plate
to boiling water temperature. Then bearing can easily be tapped oui.
Bearing from brake drum side, is easily drifted out.
9. Dismantling Sp?ing Box-See notes under trIark 1 \liheel rrhich
apply equally,
Reassernbling the Mark 2 Spring \Eheel

1. Spring Box Replacernent-ff spring box is being replaced, before
commencing assembly, the axle and spring container should be fitted and
spring boxes bolted together, and freedom of movement of the axle
assembly checked. Appreciabie drag is not uncommon with a new spring
box, but it should be po,ssible to move, resting spring box end on bench,
and pushing down on axle ends. If not, a check should be made for high
spots and the inside of spring box carefully relieved as necessary. After
FORKS, tr'RAME AND WHEELS 4L5
ascertaining that the axle container shoe is reasonably free in the spring
box, the axle rollers should be fitted to spring box with the original number
of shims and rollers fitted to axle and a check made for roller freedom.
Roller at each end should be free to revolve but without more than .002"
clearanee on either side. Shims can be removed or added from behind
sliding blocks to give the necessary adjustment.
2. Spring Box Assembly-Reference shouid be made to the notes under
this heading on Mark 1 Wheel already covered, which apply equally.
3. Wheel beariqgs should be paeked with a g'rease such as castrolease
medium or a wheel bearing grease. Fit spring box to hub and press fully
into the brake drum bearing. tr'it the original shims; replace right cover
plate; tighten up the ten nuts securely.
4. Grease the sliding blocks and rollers liberally.
5. Eit the right side dust excluder concave side faci4g forwards to
rnatch axle guide curvature. Sleeve, spring and outer cover. Note the
chamfered collar on the right side fits with the chamfer towards hub center,
6. The cast iron ring should be placed over the spring box case, against
the inner ring of left bearing.
7. Assemble the hrake anchor plate assembly to the brake orum;
releasing the brake return spring from lever will prevent shoes binding
in drum. Locate brake anchor arm on the inside of dust cover and axle
guide "arc."
8. Assemble the dust excluder. X'it the two split collars in the axle
g1oove, and over these fit the axle-to-frame anchor, locating in direction
of brake anchor arm. Refit the brake return spring to brake lever.
rl_t. 172
THE TRIU1IPII TTVIST

GR'IP TIIROTTI,E
CONTROL
Although lt ls possible to
remove and refit the throttle
cable to ts'ist grip just by
unscrewing the cable stop
and slippinS out oI stop via
the slot, peeling back the
rubller grip and removing
the retaining spring ring and
washer as shos'n, improl'es
accessibility. If the grip is
withdrawn. take care not
to lose the ratchet plunger
and spring. 19{9 and later
Triumplt tlvist grips have a
friction adjustment knob on
undersidg of body replacing
the ratchet plunger iltus-
trated.
416
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
YELOCETTE SERVICING
Brief servicing details only on the current Velocette Model L.E. and
M.A.C. machines are covered in this chapter. E'or more detailed servicinS:
information reference should be made to the manufacturer's manua"ls.
x'or general maintenance information applicable to the O.H.V. single models
refer to Chapter F our. F'or servicing information on carburetors, magnetos
and generator equipment as fitted to the single models, refer to Chapter
Sixteen.
Section 1
LUBRICATIOhI
Grades of Il{otor Oil-O.H.V. anrtr O.H.C. Singles-I'or recommended

oil grades for varying temperatures, refer to lubrication section of Chapter
Four, "Maintenance," page 126.
Grades of Motor Oil-Model L.E. 149 antl 192 c.e. Trvins-These \\'ater
cooled motors require lighter oil than is normally used. For sumniel' use
and all operation above freezing temperature S.A.E. No. 30 should be
used. Below freezing, S.A.E. No. 20 and below zero, S.A.E. No. 10.
Motor OiI Changing-This should be done at 1000-mile interr-ais,
when operating under favourable and comparatively dust-free conditions
at above freezing temperatures. Under dusty operating conditions,
especially where carburetor aircleaner is not fitted, oil should be changed
at 500-mile intervals. When operating in temperatures belorr freezing.
oil should be ehanged at 500-mile intervals or oftener if there is evidence
of water accumulating in oil.
Oil Drain and Filter-Model L.E. Trvin-The crankcase sump drain
plug is located at corner of bottom of sump, Oil shouid be drained
when hot immediately after operation. It is not essential to clean the
wire gauze strainer in the sump on every oil change. This should be
dismantled and thoroug'hly cleaned at least every 5000 miles. P1ate
secured with eight nuts should be removed, followed by the oi1 suction
bolt and filter screen. When reassembling', note a gasket fits against
sump, filter .,screen is then fitted, and oii suction bolt replaced. A further
gasket is fitted between the filter screen and cover. The stiffening ring
fits over outside cover.
I
LUBRICATION 4A7
In. 173
IIELOCETTE TWIN
LI'BRICATION DETAILS
Illustratlon at left shows the
crankcase sump oil filler locateal
at rear of left cylinder. Directly
below is the level dipstick. Oil
tevel should be maintaineal as
close to the fuu mark inalicated
as possible, tr'iUing gearbox to
plug opening gives correct gear
oil leYel. Gearbox drain plug is
I
located dlrectly below.
Ap@
I
Oil Changing-O.H.V. Singles-Oil supply is drained by removing
drain plug below tank. A gauze screen type filter is located above oil feed
union in tank (front). It is not essential that this should be cleaned on
every oil change, but it is desirable to remove, wa,sh and refit at
2000-5000-mile intervals, according'to need. Return filter plug is located
at the bottom right rear corner of, crankcase. This should be unserewed
and washed in ,gasoline or solvent at 2000-mile intervals. The body of
this plug has a small clearance between it and where it fits in the
crankcase. The space is sufficient to pass oil, but insufficient for particles
of harmful size to reach the oil pump. An obstruction at this point can
restrict operation of oil return to ta,nk, causing exhaust smoking and
excessive oil consumption.
Cylinder Oil Feetl-O.H.V. Motlels-Oil is fed to cylinder wall via the
hollow bolt at the top and rear of crankcase, directly below the cylinder
base. E or identification purposes, bolt has "jet" stamped on head. When
overhauling, make sure bolt oil passageway is clear and fibre washer is
fitted against head. Avoid over-tightening.
Gearbox Lubrication-Motor oil, grade according to temperature as
listed on page 126, is eorrect for all model gearboxes. On model L.E. filler
plug opening is eorrect oil level. See Ill. 173. On O.H.V. Single models
oil filler plug is located at top rear of gearbox rightside cover. Level plug
is the extended plug at rear of kickstarter shaft, on 250 c.c. and 350 c.c.
models, and at front of kickstarter sha.ft on 500 c.c. ,gearboxes. Gearbox
oil leve1 should be checked and replenished if necessary at least every
1000 miles. Oil should be drained and refilled with the eorrect grade every
5000 miles, or seasonally where there is substantial change in temperature.
Dt. 17t
MOI'EL L.E. A,EAR DN,NTE

Thts illustratlon shows location of filler
p1ug, level plug and drain plug on tho rear
drlve. Motor oll shoultl be Eed (see page
126 tor grade). Level should ne cnect;d
and replenished at 1000-mite intervals.
Gear case shoultl be drained and refilted
at 5ooo-mtle lnt€rvals. NotFRear Brake
Cable Adjusterunscrew to reduce slack
in brake control, retighten ]ocknut.
418 VELOCET"E SERVICING
Section 2
e
CLEARANCES AND SEITINGS L
VELOCETTE CLEAR,ANCES AND SETTINGSI 2OO c.c. 350 c.c.

lLu. "rwin' o.H.v.
Piston Clearances .f:
Bottom of skirt............. .0O17/2" *.005" T
Ir
Top of skirt................... .a02" *.007"
Piston pin in piston .000,, .000" $
Piston pin in rod (reamed)....... .004/a" .00a/2" ,ii
Piston Pin in rod (honed)......... .oaa/2,, .001" i
Standard cylinder bore mm................ 50 mm. 68 mm.
Standard cylinder bore inches. 1.969"
L
Piston ring .008" nl rtl
fnlet valve F
.0a4" .003"
Exhaust valvd
Inlet valve stem
.006" .006" tt
.402" .003" s-
Exhaust valve stem .003" .004" F-
Valve seat anEle...'... 45 Deg. 45 Deg. *
Ignition timing (retarded)..... T.D.C. T.D.C.
Ignition timing (advanced) 8.T.D.C.....-... 25/64"
Breaker point gap..... .012" .015"-.018"
Spark plug gap................. .072" .015"-.018',/
Con-rod big-end clearance...... .001 z" .001"
Valve Timing
fnlet opens before T.D.C 50 Deg.
fnlet eloses after B.D,C.. 60
Exhaust opens before 8,D.C............. 70 Deg.
Exhaust closes after T.D.C.. 40 Deg.
Tappet elearances for checking valve timing only
In1et............... .............. .010"
Exhaust.. .015"
250 c.c. 350 c.c. 500 c.c.

o.H.v. o.H.v. o.H.v.
.Carburetor Settings
Bore si2e....... 7/^tl 75/16" 7 7/76"
Main jet (without aircleaner)... 720 130 180
Throttle valve number............................. 6/3 8/4
Needle jet size',,.....",.,n...................... .1065 .1065 .1065
Carburetor Settings-Model 200 c.c.

L.E. Twins
Main jet. 25
Pilot jet. 30
25
15
*Piston Skirt Clearances-On 1951-1952 350 c.c. O.H.V. model with

aluminum cylinder block fit piston with .001,, less clearance.
MOTOR SERV]CING 419
Section 3
MOTOR SEE,VICING
(a) 149-192 c.c. Twins
Serviciug Requirements-These motors are designed to run for long

periods with a minimum of attention. It should be possible to cover
15,000-20,000 miles before need for any motor dismantling develops"
Reference should be made to the manufacturer's service manual before
unCertaking extensive overhaul work. Attention is drawn to servicing
details listed below that apply to these particular models.
Carburetor Servicing-Poor performance is very often due to a
partial obstrrrction in one or rnore of the four jets in the special carburetor
fitted to these models. d fuel fitter is located in the top of the float
chamber cover. When carburetor is disrnantled for clea"ning., this should
be thoroughly washed and blown out with air pressure. Jets should be
cleared by blowing through. Attempt should not be made to clear jets
by use of a fine wire, needle, or other object as size may be altered, and
the mixture upset. Manufacturers advise against any attempt at altering
the standard sizes. Note that round gasket is fitted in carburetor opening
ag'ainst manifold stub, and hold carburetor in towards manifold while
tightening clamp screw to avoid air leakqge.
trgnition Timing-The first models were provided with automatic
ignition advance, setting providing for breaker points just opening with
pistons.approximately at top of stroke in a stationary retarded position,
and. 5,42" before top of stroke in the advanced posiiion. Subsequentty,
rnachines were supplied with the advance units locked by means o.f a pin
secured to the gear wheel. when re-timing wi+.h ignitior so fitted, timiqg
mustbesetwithpistons5/sz,,beforetopo}stroke
cooling system-Need for occasionaily checking water level in radiator
should not be overlooked. An anti-freeze solution should be used in
seasons when there is danger of frost to avoid possibility of damage to
or cylinders from freezing. Note-cooling sysiem is drained
_radiator
by removal of plug located at the bottorn of each cyiindlr head.
(b) O.H.V. Single Motor Servicing

Top Motor Overhaul-Procedure for top motor overhaul is quite
straightforward. Gas tank should first be removed. Next remove car-
buretor, exhaust pipe, spark plqg, rocker boxes. After removal of the
four cylinder head nuts, head can be ]ifted off, followed by cylinder block.
X'or general servicing'notes refer to Chapter Sixteen,,section 1.
CR,ANKCASE SER,VICING
Con-rod Big-Entl-If big-end is to be serviced, one crankpin nut should
be undone and flJrwheels separated as iltustrated .in chapter sixteen.
Crankpins are a press fit on the slightly tapered crankpin ends. Crankpin
is of 2-piece construction. The bearing race being a Iight press fit onto
the crankpin. when assembling crankpin to flyr,yheels after dismaniling,
420 VELOCETTE SERVICING
tighten nuts so that they are approximately the same_ distance onto
cil,nkpin at each end so that centre race is not pushed off centre of
crankpin.
Crankshaft Timing Gear Nut-Note-This is ieft hand thread'
cra,nksha,ft Main Bearings-The inner races of the crankshaft main
bearing's are slightly tapered, and must be fitted with the large end of
inner iaces towards the flywheels. Packing',shims are used between fly-
wheels and races to provide a nil end clearance of flyu/heel assembly in
crankcase.
Tapered Roller'Typo lfainshaft Bearings-Later model motort have
tapered roller mainshaft bearings. Replacement should seldoial prove
but when this job is to be done, outer races are easily removed
from cr"ankcase by heati4g and replacements installed similarly. The
"r"^""aa"ry
inner races are a tight fit on ftywheel mainshafts, and the manufacturer's
'recommended method of removal is to pry out the rollers from old retainers,
grind through the inner race, taking care not to grind into shaft, splitting
inner race with a chisel. New inner races should be pressed on fully up
against flylvheel.
EnApIay adjustment is effeeted by plaeing -shims behind the outer
,r""" ir1 ciankdarse. Adjustment should be made as are necessary so that
*ilu" nywfreel assembly is installed and crankcases held together,
,,oi *o"L than a .004,, thickness g:auge can be fitted between crankcase
jointfaces.Ifcasescomecompletelytogether,itshouldbenotedthat
ifr"rl i. no measurabte endplay. If so, one or more shims should be
fitted to eliminate endplay.
Section 4
GEAB,BOX, CLUTCIIES AND CIIAINS

clutch Adjustment-o.H.V. Singtres-It is most important that betrveen
ilack be maintained ln the control on these models at all
,b,,_Ei;,; cable
times. rnsutfieient slack may result in damage to the clutch release thrust
;;;;;r as wett as clutch plates. Adjustment is made by turning the
ifireaaEa adjuster ring locatld behind the gearbox rear driying sprocket,
inwards to ieduce slack, and outwards to increase slaek. To adjust, place
mactrineonrealstandandhavegearleverinneutral'Removethecover
plate at the front of rear chain cover, secured with two screws'
Anadjustingtooliscontainedinthetoolkit'Thisisa|+,,diameter
steel rod wltfr Jlrt at one end. This tool should be entered through one
,of the holes in the rear drive sprocket so that the flat end can engage
*itt,. orr" of the notches in the clutch adjusting ring nut behind the sprocket.r'4
Aft". been made, rotate the rear wheel forward about
"*itl trr.r,has
"rrgrg"ment clutch adjusting ring nut. Control slack should be
irr*. 1.fri" the
rechecked, and wheel rnoved further forward or backward as necessal:y
to get the required %s" cable slack.
Clutch Atljustment-Twin Models-/ra"-7'A" free cable slack should
be maintained. A threaded adjuster is located between the two lengths
,of clutch cable outer casing. To reduce slack, unscrew adjuster and to
increase sIack, screw adjuster in.
EORKS, X'RAME AND WHEELS 42L
Front Chain Atljustment-Z50 c.c. and 350 c.c. Models-slacken the four
nuts,.securing clips underneath gearbox. Turn adjuster bolt nuts to give
the required Ve" free up and down slack. Retighten bottom nuts fuliy and
check adjustment. Adjuster bolt nuts should both be securely tightened
toward one another.
Front Chain Adjustment-500 c.c. Models-slacken the nuts on the
three bolts securing gearbox to engine plates, one at the trottom and two
at the top. Turn adjuster bolt nuts a,s required to provide correct slack
of %". Reti,ghten gearbox frame plate nuts, and adjuster bolt nuts securely"
Rear Chain Adjustrnent-An ordinary cycte type adjustment is used-
Note-On early 250 c.c. and 350 c.c. models, it is necessary to slacken
the rear brake plate anchor bolt at the top of the left rear fork end lug
before moving: wheel, and this must be securely tightened afterwards.
Front Chain Lubrication-O.H.V. Moilels-Although the front chairu
is fully enclosed, it is not a full oil bath. About r/+ point of oil should
be added to chaincase every 1000 miles and lubrication supplemented by
use of, oil can at more frequent intervaJs if chain a,ppears short of lubrica-
tion when inspected.
Section 5
FOB,KS, FBAME AND IMTIEEI,S

Dowty Oleornatic Plurlger Forks-This type of fork used on some
250 c.c., 350 c.c. and 500 c.c. O.H.V. Velocette modeis, is similar to that
used on Panther machines and already covered on pages sB2-BaE. Reference
should be made to these pages for servicing information on this fork
equipment.
Rea,r Wheel flsm6\ral-Ifsdel L.E.-Unscrew and pull out the rear
axle from the right hand side. Remove spacer between hub and fork end,
The wheel should now be pulled to the right side to diseng4ge from splines
and brake. Note--on machines that havb covered some distance, it may
be necessary to slacken off the brake adjuster (see rll, 174), as if brake
drum has worn to some extent there may be a ridge on inner edge of
drum whieh will not pass over shoes until adjustment is slackened.
lvheel Removal-o.H.v. Moders-Remove the three nuts securing the
wheel to brake drum. r-Inscrew and pull out the rear wheel axle from the
right side- Remove spacer between hub and right fork end, and wheel
can be lifted off brake drum studs. when refiiting, be sure to tighten
the brake drum stud nuts securely.
Rear Spring Frarne Adjustrnent-L.8. Models_The rear sprirlging is
adjustable for load. Note-The top spring anchor nuts tighten ove-r slots
on either side of the rear mudguard. !'or soft springing witn a light load,
both spring anchor nuts should be located in the furtheJt to,rwara-position.
A stiffer spring action can .be -obtained. by slackening nuts and moving
any amount rearwards within the limit of the slots, which provid.es the
maximum stiffness. Note, both spring nuts should be located an equal
distance from slot ends, if an intermediate setting is made. Tighten nuts
securely after adjusting.
A''
CEIAPTER FIF'TEEN
VI]VCENT SERYICI]VG
This chapter provides brief servicing details only on Vincent machines.

tr'or more detailed servicing information, reference should be made to the
Manufacturer's manual. Although the design of the Vincent difiers
substantially from conventional mo1-orcycles, operating procedure anC
maintenance requirements are comparatively simiiar, and reference should
be made to Chapters Three and E our for information on these subjects'
Reference should be made to Chapter Sixteen, "Reconditioning and
Servicing British }Iodels" for servicing infornration on componeilts sllch
as carburetors and magnetos.
Section 1
LUBR,IC,&TION
Grades of Motor Oil-!''or recommended oil grades for varying tetn-

peratures, refer to Lubrication section of Chapter Four, "Maintenance,"
page 126. OiI changing requirements are detailed on page 123.
$flotor Lubrica.tion-oil suppiy is contained in tank which forms the
top frame member. The front end of the reciprocating and rotating plunger'
pump feeds oil from tank to engine via a large fabric filter located beloiv
magneto, and the rear end of purnp returns oil from crankcase to tank.
Motor oil tank capacity is 3 quarts.
Motor oil Filter-A fabric filter is l0cated at front of crankcase beI0-rv
the magneto. Ijnscrewing the large hexagon head pittg enables this to
be removed for cleaning. This should- be washed in gasoline or solvent at
5000-mile intervals, and at the same time the filter chamber in crankcase
should be washed out. It is good poticy to pour sone oil into the filiet'
chamber before fitting screw plug, otherwise oil will not leach the bearings
until filter chamber fills uP.
Draining the Oil Tank-This should be done when hot, immediatell'
after operation. The simplest method is to remove the banjo connection
from fiont of pump at lower end of feed pipe. A small quantity of oi1
will remain in the tank and to drain this, the oii feed line top union
should be unscrewed and the tank union also unscrewed. This contains
a ,,stop valve,, that prevents oil leaking out when the oil line is discon-
nected. The extended top end of the oil feed line raises the stop valve
when iL is connected to the tank union and allows oil to pass through. A
sauze filter is located above the tank oil feed stop valve and this should
6e unscrewed, washed, and at the same time tank flushed out, at 5000-mile
intervals. When this ls being done, care should be taken to avoid spilling
oil over toP of motor.
Crankcase drain plug is located towards front, on lower Ieft side of

crankcase, extending through engine plate. Removal of this plug wiU
drain the small amount of oiI in the crankcase.
Oil-Motor oil same grade as for motor, is correct for gearbox.
Ge.arbox
Oil should be checked at 1000-mile intervals, drained. and refilled at
5000-mile intervals. Oil capaeity is 3 pints. A dipstick is located in the
gearbox filler opening on the left side. Level should be to ,,flat,, on
dipstick, Gearbox drain plug is located towards the front at bottom of
right hand side of gearbox.
Section 2
CLEAR,ANCES AND SETTINGS
VINCENT 1000 c.c. 1000 c.c.

BIack 500 c.c.
CLEARANCES AND SETTINGS Rapide Comet
Shadow
Piston Clearances (.006" cam)

Bottom of skirt.......... .005r/2,, .006y2" .005r/2"
Top of skirt............... ooRr/-t' .009Y2" .o087/2"
?op ring land.. .020" .027" .020"
Piston ring joint ,gap.... .018" .018" .018"
Piston pin- iir pist"oni..... :... :................ :.... :..
: .000" .000,, .000,,
Piston. pin in rod (reamed) ...................... .001/2" .001" .00Y2"
Piston pin in rod (honed)......... .001" .007t/2,, .001"
Standard cylinder bore mm....... 84 mm. 84 mm. 84 mm.
Standard cylinder bore inches... 3.306" 3.307" 3.306"
Inlet valve tappet (cold)............. .000" .000" .000"
Exhaust valve tappet ( cold) ..................... .000" .000" .000"
Valve seat an91e.............. 30 Deg. 30 Deg. 30 Deg.
Con-rod big-end clearance...... .001" .001" .001"
Con-rod big-end side play....... 075"-.020" 015"-.020" 006"-.010"
Valve guide bore (upper) .372" .372" .312"
Valve guide bore (lower) .ol1 .374"
fgnition advance (on piston)... r/2" 7/2" -/2
Breaker point gap..... .012" .072" .072"
Spark piug gap................. .018" .018" .018"
Va,lve Timing
Inlet opens before T.D.C. 42 Deg. 42 Deg. 42 Deg.
fnlet closes after B.D.C... 64 Deg. 64 Deg. 64 Deg.
Exhaust opens before B.D.C. 72 Deg. 72 Deg. 72 Deg.
Exhaust cioses
closes after T.D.C..........
T.D.C... 30 Deg. 30 Deg. 30 Deg.
Tappet settihg for valve timing only.,... .005" .005" .005"
Carburetor Settings
Bore si2e...... 7 t/76" |r/s" 77/e',
Main jet (without aircleaner) ................. 770 180 200
Throttle valve number............................... 6/4 29 /4 29/3
Needle jet si2e.......... .1065 .1065 .1065
- QnarX Flugs-r){6// long reach 14 mm. spark plugs are required for all
models.
424 VINCENT SERVICING
Section 3
MOTOR SEEVICING
Motor Disma,ntling-To undertake either a "top" or a complete motor
overhaul, the proeedure is to block up machine under motor and gearbox,
remove front fork with wheel, front frame and oil tank seetion as one
unit from the motor assembly, The manufactures iist the following
procedure:
Remove saddle pivot boit, remove gas lines, remove front and rear
tank fixing bolts, remove oil filler cap. Tank can be removed by iifting
upward and rearrvards. Disconnect electrical connections, remove battery.
Remove nut from front fixing bolt of rear frame springs and push bolt
out. Remove tank vent pipe and oil feed pipe from rear of oil tank, and
banjo bolt connecting oil return pipe to centre of tank' Remove carburetor
throttle slides. Disconnect clutch and compression release cables. Remove
locknut and inner nut of rear cylinder anchorage. Tap out anchorage
bolt; working back through the hole, tap out the anchor piece which has
remained in place. Remove one locknut from front anchor bolt and the
spigot nut beneath it, and tap bolt out. The upper frame member complete
with front forks and wheel, can now be lifted clear and wheeled away,
leaving the motor completely exposed.
Bemoving Bear Forks-Unless complete motor dismantling is to be
undertaken, this is not necessary. These can be removed by taking off
the pivot bolt nut at the right hand side to the rear of kickstarter cover,
and driving out the bolt to the clutch side. With the rear chain discon-
neeted, the forks can be removed rearwards.
Cylinder Head Removal-IJnscrew pushrod tube nuts and slide tubes
down clear of rocker boxes. Remove spark plugs and rocker inspection
caps. Revolve motor so that valves are closed on cylinder head being
removed. If rocker adjusting screws are unscrewed from rockers, pushrods
can be lifted out through rocker hole using long nose pliers.
Valvo Seat Angle-Note-Valve seat arlgle is 30 degrees'
Refaeing Valves-It is difficult to reface the double diameter stem t5'pe
of valve on some types of valve refacing equipment designed for gripping
straight stem valves on1y. The Sioux refacer in rvhich the stem end is
supported and centred in a cone at the back end of chuck, is suitable,
the chuck tightdning on the larger diameter of stem towards valve head.
ff valves cannot be refaced satisfactorily, it is better, on this particular
type, to just rely on grinding in.
Valve Seat Re.cutting-This can be undertaken with standard equip-
ment, with the use of a bushing,.374-.375 outside diameter, and.312"
bore, which can be fitted into the 1ar8'e diameter valve guide in the port.
If this is done, a standard straight EAe" pilot can be used for va.lve reseatinS'
operation.
Cylinder Head Joint-No gasket is used on the cylinder head joint.
ff there is evidence of leaking havi4g occurred, the joint can be "lapped"
in with valve grinding paste, applying fine paste on the top of flange, and
coarse paste on the broad cylinder joint faee. Avoid rocking the head in
this operation, and use a back and forth rotating motion. Wash off
thoroughly after joint lapping.
MOTOR SERVICING 425.
Top Overha,ul Reasseurbly-A nerv gasket set should be used on alll

jobs, Tighten cylinder head nuts down evenly to 35 ft. Ibs. torque. It isr
good policy to remove the timing cover to ascertain that pushrods register
correctly with cam followers when assembling:.
Oil Pressure Relea,so Valve--This is located at right rear of timing'
g:ear cover. No attention is normaliy required. Note, however, that the
hexagon plug is hollow and when tightening, only very moderate pressure
should be used, otherwise it may be broken off.
Ill. 175
vrNcENT 1$00 0.c.

TIMING GEA.RfI
of Cam
Illustration at left shows ttre
!e l'1.rer
ned b, r correct meshing of marked tim-
lng gear teeth for valve and
ily narLe d crankcase breather timing.
Note that due to the odd num-
ber of teeth on the large liller
gear, the timing marks on thls
gear do not correctly reglster
as lllustrated, once the motor
has been revolved, util a very
considerable number of revolu-
One dct at toolil tions aie made. Timing, how-
oniefLlne Pnonl ever, can be considered. correct
orFos re the I n< \ when the marked tooth on crmk-
on large idler: shaft timing gear meshes with
the idler gear, and the marked
teeth on the cam gears are the
"in mesh" teeth with the large
ldler gear. mark on
the front cam gear must reBister
with the "8" mark on the
crankcase breather gear.
To ensure that timing is cor-
rect, idler gear should be with-
drawn, gears reYolved a neces-
sary and remeshed with the
marks registefing as strowtr.
rll. 1?6
**x% 600 c.c. vINCEIflf SINGf,I!

TI1\{ING GDAB MARKS
Thls lllustratlon shows the cor-
rect re8istedng of tlming ged
marks for valYe and breather
tlmiDg otr .the Vincent Singles.
Due to the odd number of teeth
on the large idler gear, ths idler
@ gear marks will seldom register
SMALL as shown when the moto! is re-
..!oLLR volved.. Timing is correct, how-
ever, regardless of the posltlon
of the ldler gear marks prol,lal-
1ng the marked teeth on ttre
crankshaft gear, cam gear and
breather gear are positioned as
Onc doL at (?)Fxt ,\h a1 shom.
(nqaqes r e, on YJ n!ilrl 'lfo ensure timing is correct,
(NE!-prs,r on rar er -
ea.r nd,r .lu,r ."ct . ) wlthdraw ldler gear, revolve
g:e&rs as necessaly and refit
with marks reglsterlng as shom.
426 VINCENT SERVICING
Section 4
IGNITION TIMING
Magneto Tiwring-Twin Motors
1. Set breaker points to .O72"gap fuily open.
2. Revolve motor so that rear piston is a/2" before top of compression
stroke (both valves closed). If a degree plate is used, set at 37-38 degrees.
3.. Block the automatic advance mechanism in the fully advanced
position with a piece of wood or cardboard.
4. Clean the magneto shaft taper and taper in automatic advance hub.
X'it magneto gear and advance mechanism, tighten nut lightly but not
sufficient to grip hub to shaft taper,
5. Revolve magneto via the breaker point assembly in its running
direction, anti-clockwise at breaker end, until points just cornmence
to separate on the lower of the two cam ring lobes.
6. Fix the gear to magneto shaft, by placing box wrench over nut
and giving sharp rap with hammer, and tighten Sear nut seeurely. Revolve
motor and recheck timing. Note that with packing removed from autp-
rnatie advance, allowing return to retarded position, breaker points should
just eommence to separate with pistons at top of stroke. If the advance
rhechdnism is blocked in advanced position, points should just commenee
to separate with pistons t/2" befote top of stroke.
7. To make certain that motor has been timed on the correct cam,
timing sfro'utd be checked in both cylinders. Due to the uneven firhg
interval, if tirning is effected on the wrong cam, one cylinder will be much
out of time.
Spark Pickup Connections-Note-Pickup stamped No. 1 connects to
rear cylinder, No. 2 to front cylinder.
Section 5
GEARBOX, CLUTCH AND CHAIhIS

Front Chain Adjustment-Twins-Check and adjust when warm. 3/s"
slack is correct. When slack is in excess of B/+" adjust by slackening
adjusting screw locknut located at lower front of chaincase, turning in
screw as necessary and retightening locknut'
Rear Chain Adjustment-slacken rear axle and rotate the knuried
chain adjuster knobs an equal number of half turns to provide 7+" up and
down play. Retighten axle securely. Recheck brake adjustment after
adjusting chain.
clutch contror Adjustment-on the Twin models, this is rocated on

the right side of kickstarter cover. Adjustment shourd be made when
slack in the clutch cable is outside the range of 1/s,,-?Aa,,. To adjust, slacken
Iocknut on screw near kickstarter crank. Turn screw in to reduce slack
and out to increase. Retighten locknut after correct adjustment is obtainecl.
Note-The cable adjuster located a short distance from the handlebar lever
in outer casiqg, is for the purpose of adjusting cable length so that oper-
ating lever is correctly positioned. To check, remove geaibox clutch lever
inspection cap, pulI clutch lever in fully to handiebar, and note the operating
lever shouid just about contact the clutch cable outer casing stopi,
cxutch slip-rf there is sufficient slack in the control, slip is unlikely
to occur unless oil has worked into the clutch onto the shoe linings. rn
some instances thoroughly washing Iinings by scrubbing in gasoline, drying
and roughening with a coarse file or emery cloth, will remedy, but if
lining has been badly soaked with oil, replacement is recommended.
clutch Drag-rf this is not due to excessive contror slack it likery
results from uneven spring pressure preventing an even throw-off of outer
plate when disengaged. This can sometimes be relieved .by changing posi-
tion of springs or replacing with a set of spri4gs of even strengtfr. Bpdng
screws should be tightened up fully. rt should not be attempted to improve
clutch outer plate throw-off by leaving: one or more spring screws slighfly
slack.
Sprockets and Gear Ratios-Gearing is varied by changing size of
rear wheel sprocket. The top gear. ratios provided with diffeient size
sprockets on the twin models are detailed below:
Rear Sprocke,t Teeth Ratlo Rear SprocketTeeth Ratio
45 ].52
3.42 3.96 1
46 (standard) 754
3.5 4.1 1
47 3.58 156 4.26 1
48 3.66 158 4.42 1
50 3.82 160 4.57 1
Provisioh is made for fitting a sprocket on each side of rear hub
enabling alternative gearing to be quickly obtained by removing rear
wheel and refitting the other way around, adjusting chiin length as re-
quired' when this is done, brake operatlng levers iequire re-fositioning
to restore to an up position.
wheel Bearing shims-on
,bearings some models with tapered roller wheel
adjustment is effected by placing shims between one inner race
and axle shoulder, adding shims to take up slack. There should be just
p_erceptible play in these tapered roller type bearings after axle brake
plate nuts are tightened. Shims are also fitted between-bearings and brake
plates, to adjust clearance between drums and brake plates. iire minimum
clearance that will provide free running is desirable.
Gearbox and clutch servicing--50O c.c. single Models-These machines
are equipped with Burman gearboxes, and this type of clutch adjustrnent
is shown on page 142, rllustration No. 89. r'urtirer servicing inf6rmatior-r
on this type of gearbox wiu be found in Chapter Sixteen.
428
CHAPTER SIXTEE\T
RECONDITIONING AND SERVICING

BRITISH MODELS
Not+This chepter covers reconditioni4g and servicing procedure

generally applicable to all British models. servicing of gearboxes, car-
6uretors-, and electrieal equipment common to a, number of mak-es, is
includecl. For servicing details applying to individual makes, refer to
chapters 5-15, arld for villiers engines, to chapter seventeen. Reference
strould be made to chapter x.our for details on average running mainten-
ance requirements and procedure.
Section L
MOTloR SER,VICING
(a), Average Servicing Requirements
Mileages at which reconditioning becomes necessary, vary considerably.

To some extent the mileage obtainable varies with the make and model
of machine, but mainly is influenced by the conditions of service, care or
misuse in operating, and most especially, the periodic maintenance that
has been provided.
fn dusty areas, operation without an efficient aireleaner causes rapidly
accelerated wear and greatly reduees mileage that can be covered betrveen
overhauls. The same applies to operation in cold weather, particularly
short runs without sufficiently frequent oil changes.
Top Motor Overhauls-The average motor is due for. a top motor
overhaul at from 5000-15,000-mile intervals. The need for top motor
overhaul is usually indicated by such symptoms as excessive oil con-
sumption, loss of compression, excessive mechanical noise and generally
reduced maximum speed and performance capabilities.
Top motor overhaul normally includes carbon removal, replacement
of piston rings, valve servicing, carburetor and ignition tune-up.
Valve Sticking-This is one of the most common causes of need for
undertaking top motor overhaul. This condition arises from carbon deposit
building up on the exhaust va"lve stems and in valve guides, reducing the
stem clearance. Initially, this condition may be evidenced by sluggish
performance and a noticeable clicking noise developing at speeds after
motor is well warmed up, resulting from exhaust valve stems binding in
guides and valve springs being: unable to close valves suffieiently quickly
MOTOR SERVICING 429
to maintain tappet clearances. rf operation is eontinued after this condition

has developed, burning of the exhaust valves, followed by a noticeable
loss of compression rapidly takes place.
The most common cause of this trouble developing., particularly in
O.H.V. type motors, is found to be over-lubrication o1 valves -and
insufficient exhaust valve stem clearance in the valve guides. On motors
where this trouble has been experienced, it is most important that all
carbon be removed from exhaust valve guide bores and exhaust valve
stems when valve servicing is being done, and that adequate exhaust stem
clearance is provided. Reference should be made to the notes on ,,Valve
Servicing," on page 431,
Compression Testing-A cornpression pressure test gives an indication
as to valve condition, and is particularly useful for identifying trouble on
a Twin or 4-cylinder motor. When making' a compression test, throttle
should be opened fully. Gauge should be held firmly into spark plug ho,le,
if a rubber cone type plug hole fitting is used. The starter should be
kicked over quickly 3 or 4 times, and the maximum pressure obtained
on each cylinder, noted.
The eompression pressure reading obtained will vary slightly on
different motors with the same cornpression ratio because at starter
kickover speed a variable amount of eompression is lost back through
the late closing of the inlet valve; also carbon deposits in the combustion
chamber are another variable. On the average, a motor with a 7:1 com-
pression ratio will show a pressure of 125 lbs. and with 7,8:1 ratio, IBb
lbs. 20 lbs. less pressure than these figures or the variation of as much
as 10 lbs. between the cylinders, indicates valve trouble, A worn piston
ring condition, of course, can also account for a lower compression pressure
reading, but substantial loss of compression via piston rings is usually
also indicated by excessive oil consumption, greater pressure escape from
crankcase breather, and tendency for oil leakage at joints. If a small
quantity of oil is squirted through the spark plug hole and another com-
pression reading taken, with little improvement in the compression
pressure, valve leakage is indicated; whereas a notable pressure increase
indicates piston ring leakage,
In any event, where compression pressure is notably below standard,
and is not restored by use of one of the preparations for relieving'vaive
sticking, cylinder head removal should be undertaken and before removing
valves, test by pouring ga;soline or varsol in each port and observe for
leakage around valve head. If there is very pronounced leakage at the
exhaust valve head, it can usually be safely assumed that this is the source
of trouble.
If there is not noticeable "ridge" at the top of the cylinder and piston
does not appear to have exeessive "rock,,, and mileage is such that ring
replacements should not normally be coneidered necessary, it is just as
well to leave the cylinder undisturbed.
Where any doubt exists, however, it is wise to remove the cylinder
block for piston and ring examination as well. Reference should be made
to the notes on "Parts Examination and Replacements,, that follow, for
determining the required servi.cing replaeements
Complete Motor Eeconditioning-Requirements vary considerably.
cylinder reboring and fitting oversize pistons which often will be included
in top overhaul jobs, are required at intervals varying from 10,000-2b,000
430 RECONDITIONING AND SERVICING BRITISH MODELS
miles. In the lower end, con-rod, and mainshaft bearings ,generally require
attention at 20,000-30,000-mile periods. Crankcase dismantling need not
normally be undertaken until straight up and down play in the con-rod
or mainshaft bearings of ,004" or mo,re is evident.
With the exception of machines that have been exceptionally well
maintained, general reconditioning of the entire machine is often due by
the time complete rnotor overhaul is necessary, and when such work is
being done, it is wise to go over the remainder of the machine and restore
all components to first-class condition.
(b) Parts Examination and Replacernents
Note-Dismantling procedure for top motor overhaul, crankcase

serviclng and con-rod big-end servicing, are covered in sub sections (d),
(e), and (f) that follow.
When dismantling work is completed and parts have been cleaned
up, replacement requirements should be determined. For details on standard
clearances and dimensions, reference should be made to the "Clearance
and Settings" section contained in the chapter of the make concerned.
This can be readily located by referring to the summary of contents.
Piston Rings-Remove the top ring from each piston; place squarely
in lower end of cylinder bore and check for gap. If in excess of .030" ring
replacement is advisable. lf gap is less, there is nothing to be gained by
replacing rings and the remaining rings need not be disturbed. When
installing new rings, be sure to remove all traces of carbon from the
bottom of piston grooves. A hacksaw blade and section of old broken
piston ring used as a scraper, are useful for this purpose. File ring joints
as necessary to provide required joint gap in lower unlvorn end of cylinder.
Check that rings go down fully in piston g'rooves and do not project above
ring lands. Carbon residue in piston grooves can cause breakage of new
ringts.
Piston Ring Depth-The depth or radial thickness varies betrveen
some English and Arnerican rings, and in many cases American-made
rings have greater depth and cannot be fitted without deepening the
grooves in pistons. Rings of the correct radial thickness should be obtained
where possible to avoid this operation. It is essential that rings fit down
stightly below level of the piston lands.
Pistons-Pistons should be checked with a micrometer if available.
If not, they can be checked reasonably accurately with a feeler gauge.
To check accurately, piston rings should be removed and piston removed
from rod. Check skirt clearance on thrust face, in lower unworn end of
cylinder. Measure at right angles to piston pin. Most pistons are tapered
with greater clearance at top of skirt. Piston replacemelt is generally
advisable when skirt clearances are .003" or more in excess of standard
clearances. The ring grooves should be examined for excessive lvear,
checking the amount of side clearance in the top groove. Piston replace-
rnent is recommended if ring side clearance exceeds .007". Excessive
top ring groove wear is common where machines are operated in dusty
areas without aircleaner.
f
l
MOTOR SERVICING 431
Piston Replacernent-If piston replacement is being effected due to

a worn piston skirt or ring gyoove condition, cylinder bore should, of
course, be measured to determine the amount of cylinder wear. If wear
exceeds .004" at top end of ring travel in cylinder, reboring or honing
cylinders, and fitting oversize pistons is recommended to obtain full benefit
from the ne\M pi6tons.
Cylinder Block Measuring a,nd Reboring-Cylinder wear can be fairiy
accurately determined with an inside micrometer, by placing a piston ring
in the lower unworn end of the cyiinder, measuring the gap with a feeler
gaug'e, then shoving the piston ring with piston to the top end of the
ring: travel in cylinder and measuring the gap in this piston. The difference
in joint gap between the two positions will represent approximately three
times the cylinder diameter wear. l'or example, if the ring ,gap at the
lower end o,f the cylinder is .010" and at the top end measures .040", the
difference in .030" circumference increase indicates approximately .010"
diameter wear, and reboring and oversize piston fitting is recommended.
Generally, cylinder wear over .008" calls for reboring if the most satisfactory
results are to be obtained.
Oversizes-The oversizes offered by various manufacturers vary, but
together with the pistons of,fered by reDlacement manufacturerrs, it is
generally possible to obtain in sizes of .010", ,075", .O20", .030',, .040',
and .060" oversize. For notes on cylinder reboring and oversize piston
fitting, refer to Chapter Twenty-one, "Motorcycle Machine Shop Practice."
Va.lves-Refacing of valves and recutting of seats with electric valve
seat grinder equipment, is recommended on all top motor overhaul jobs.
When accurately done, no grinding in is necessary. It is of utmost
importance that all carbon deposit on exhaust valve stems, be thoroughly
removed. This can be done on a wire buffing wheel or a more effective
job can be done using fine emery cloth on valve stem driven in a high
speed electric drill.
Valves should be replaced when they reface out to a sharp edge, and
when stem wear checked with a micrometer measures .004" or more.
Exhaust Valve Stem Clearance-Exhaust valve stem cleara.nce in
guides should be measured to ensure this is adequate to avoid valve sticking
trouble developi4g. Recommended clearances are as follo,=ws: 5/6// sls6-
.004", tt6r', stem-.0045',, 3/s,, sfBro-.005,,. Often when new valves and
guides are fitted, clearances will be found less than these figures and the
best method of increasing is to polish valve stems \Mith fine emery cloth
in a high speed electric drill.
With standard valve guide bore sizes of approximately .373", .344',
and.375", stem diameters should not exceed.309",.3395", and.370,,
respectively. If attempting to check clearance with feeler gauges, strips
cut to not more than a/8" widt}:. should be used.
Inlet Valve Stern Cleanance-This is not nearly as critical as exhaust

stem clearance. .002"-.003" according to stem diameter are normal clear-
ances. Sticking is unlikely to occur even if clearance is slightly less than
standard and providing inlet valve stems are perfectly free in guides,
clearance c.an be considered sufficient.
Valvo Springs-Compare length against new' sp.ring's and replace if
shortened ls" ot more. Where maximum performance is required, it is
advisable to replace springs on every valve job.
432 RECONDITIONING AND SERVICING BRITISII MODELS
Valvo Guides-With a few rare exceptions, vaJve guidm have standa.rd

bore size of 6/ta", a7rbz" anrd.9b", Yalve guides are best measured for wear
by checki4g with valve seat reconditioning pilots. If a .002" oversize pilot
enters guide easily, indicating wear of possibily .003" or more, replacement
is recommended.
Cam Followers-Rate of eam follower wear varies considerably. On
motors known to suffer from cam follower wear, these parts should always
be examined when overhauling. Badly worn cam followers cause very
noticeable noise often mistaken for piston slap. Continued operation w'ith
worn cam followers will eause cam wear, possibly necessitating cam
replacement. Where cam followers are worn to a depth of .010" or more,
and where cams are worn as much as 7/az" off maximum lift, replacements
are recommended.
Piston Pin Bushings-Standard piston pin clearances in con-rod bush-
ings range frorn .00r/2"-.001". Pin bushing replacement should be made
wlren this clearance is .0024/2" or more.
Mainshaft Bearings-Mainshaft bearings should be replaced when
there is noticeable straight up and down play. An1'thing over .004"-.005"
is excessive. On ball bearings, if there is very noticeable roughness or
evidence of considerable rusting, replacement is advisable a,s rapid wear
may develop. On plain bearings such as the right side crankshaft bearings
used on a number of, Twin motors and the Ariel F our, replacement should
be made when reconditioning, if clearance exceeds .002", in order to
maintain satisfactory oil pressure.
Con-tod Big-end Bearings-Although operation can be continued
sometimes for a few thousand miles after perceptible straight up and
down con-rod big-end clearance develops, if quite noticeable "shake" can
be felt, replacements should be made, .004" clearance is considered the
outside safe operating limit. Refer to sub section (f) for Con-rod Big-end
,Servicing details.
(c) Motor Servicing Methods

Servicing Inforrna.tio r-Before commencing dismantling, it is wise,
especially for thorse not closely familiar with the job to be done, to first
review available servicing information. If the machine is a make that is
covered by a servicing ehapter in this book, this will easily be located by
reference to the summary of contents, and €, few minutes spent reviewing
the servicing details listed, will be time well spent.
Oil Draining-Motor oil tank should be drained before commencing
dismantling, preferably when hot immediately after operation. Where
gearbox or primary drive ,are to be dismantled, these should also be first
drained to avoid oil spilling in the workshop space during dismantling.
, Motorcycle Servicing Stand-Servicing is greatly facilitated if motor-
cycle is mounted on a stand, particuiarly for extensive jobs. Suitable stand
dimensions are: length-7', width-18", height-18". A servicing stand
is easily made up with a two by four frame and one-inch top boards. A
detachable runway ramp about ?' long is a useful aid to mounting and
dismounting machine from stand. This equipment greatly reduees "back.-
bending" and crouching otherwise required when machine is worked on
at ground level.
MOTOR SERVICING 433
Cleaning-Before commencing dismantling, wash the machine down

thoroughly, especially the motor. Varsol and a brush ean be used with
good results, or if the job is fairly dirty, obtain one of the special degreas-
iqg solvents which can be brushed on, and after soaking for a few minutes,
hosed off, giving a very clean job.
\ilork Space-Clean out the work space to be used. Clean off the
bench top thoroqghly. Secure a number of metal pa.ns, such as baking
pans or boxes'with sound bottoms, for holding parts.
Tools-Lay out tools likely required for the work to be done at one
end of the bench, or place these tools in a shaJlow baking pa,n so that
they can be kept tog'ether and easily transferred from the bench to floor.
This will save time wasted looking for tools, and will avoid getting them
misplaced with parts.
Farts Cleaning-When dismantling has been completed, as far as it
is intended to go, immediately wash off all parts, examine thoroughly,
and make a list of the replacements necessary. Stow parts in some
semblance of order in the boxes or pa"as to avoid possibility of parts getting
lost. This will save time on assembly.
Cleaning Parts-A gallon of varsol or kerosene should be on hand,
a large pan and a moderate size paint brush, for cleaning parts when
dismantled. A pound of clean rags is useful for wiping of,f parts after
washing.
Lighting-It is essential to work with adequate light. ff windows do
not provide sufficient light, or if working at night, use two adjustable
floor lamps, one on each side of machine.
Se'rvicing Assistance-Unless you require mechanical assistance, work
alone, or with not more than one helper, Having a number of onlookers
around when working: on your motor, may distract you suffieiently to
cause one or more mistakes with serious consequences. Be thorough and
systematic; do not Ieave off working' on one part to go on with something'
else, without good reason. Complete each individual operation whilg yq,u
are at it wh.ere possible, and this will help to reduce oversights.
Farts Proourement-As soon as parts requirements have been
determined, these should be procured, and reassembly proceeded with,
with the Ieast possible delay. Even if you are quite familiar with your
machine, you will find that reassembling can be effected in much less
time if cornmenced soon after dismantling. F'or this reason it is often
advisabie to obtain the required parts in advance of dismantling., if require-
ments can be anticipated, so that reassembly can be immediately proceeded
with.
Check Caril-Look over the check card illustrated on page 11b and
note that all points specified have been checked on assembly, and re-checked
after road testing. X'ollorving this system is the best assurance for getting
satisfactory and reliable results from overhaul work.
/DA
RECONDITIONING AND SERVICING BRITISH MODELS
(rI) Top Motor Overhaul Frocodure
ARIEL O.H.V. SINGI-ES

Note-The steps detaiied helow apply especially to Ariel Single models,
which are used for illustration purposes in this section, but in general
they ar'e applicable to mostty alt British models of similar design.
Disrarantling
1. Removal of tank improves accessibility. Remove the four mounting
bolts, gas line, disconnect oii pressure gauge pipe union (where fitted).
On models equipped with tank insirument panel, remove speedometer drrve
cable from gearbox, dashlight ground wire, and connection into taii light
wire. Remove tank complete with panel in place. Screw tank mounting
bolis ancl rubller spacers into respective holes in tank and set in a safe
piace out of the way.
2. Remove-Sparkplug, earburetor, oil line to rockers, exhaust pipes,
rccker boxes and cylinCer head. If cylinder head is stuck to block it can
be ioosened by jarring, using' a block of wood and hammer under exhaust
ports. The pushrods should be marked No, 1 for the front a.nd No. 2 for
the rear, before they get mixed. Although these are interchangeable, it is
best to refit in orig'inal location.
3. l\[ark the piston top "p" at the front, undo the four base nuts
and lift the cyiinder block just sufficiently to slip a clean cioth between
the crankcase and bottorir of piston. Now the block can be lifted right
off and in the event of there being a broken ring, pieces will not drop
into the crankcase.
4. Rernove cirelips from piston, that retain piston pin. A pair of
long-nose tweezers ground down al the nose, simplify this job. Take care
not to lose circlips in case new ones are not available.
5. Support piston by pressing up against it from one side with a
block of wood, clearing the pin hole, Tap out pin from other side. Heat
piston pin if pin is very tight fit, A simple method is to soak a cloth
in very hot water and wrap around piston for a minnte or two. If torch
is used to heat piston, keep lveil clear of gas tank.
6. On the Ariel Singles, the flyvsheel oi1 purifier plug located in the
right fllvheel rim should be removed, using a good fitting %e" socket.
This can be removed from the cylinder crankcase opening or from the
oil sump plate opening below.
7. After determining that the ior,r,'er end is in satisfactory condition,
crankcase should be flushed out and covered up, awaiting completion of
the bench work and reassembling.
TOP OVERIIAUI, BENCH WOR,K

Cylinder Head Servicing-!'irst scrape carbon from cylinder head
combustion chamber, then remove valves using a valve spring compressor
tool as shown in 1ll. 777, for compressing springs to remove the split
cones.
MOTOR SERVICING 435
Carbon Removal-Care should be taken to avoid g:ouging piston top,

valve seats, cylinder head and head joint surfaces during carbon removal.
Care is especially required with aluminum heads. A wire brush driven
in a high speed electric drill is useful for carbon removal, especially for
cleaning out ports. Carbon deposit in both inlet and exhaust ports should
be well cleaned out particularly where maximurn performance is desired.
Cleaning Burned-on Oil From Head a,nd Block-On cast iron cylinder
heads a.nd blocks, this is best done by submerging in a solution of hot
water and caustic soda. Two or three pounds of caustic soda per gallon
of water makes an effective solution. After an hour or two of submersion,
remove and wash off thoroughly with water hose. Paint is removed in
this treatment, and block and head should be given a thin coat of black
stove pipe enamel or special eylinder paint, to prevent rusting'. Aluminum
alloy eylinders and heads must not be put in caustic soda solution.
Valve Guide Replacements-In all ty,pes, valve guides are removed
by a doutrle diameter drift, driving out from the inside of port to outside
Itr. I 77
VAI-I'E SPRING
CO}IPIIESSOR,
To renove valYes for seiYicing,
it is necessary to compress the
springs sufficiently to permit
removal of the split collars. The
side va lte type valre spring
compressor is illustrated in use.
A similar tcol \Yith a "drop"
end is used on O,H.V, types, If
an O.H.V. t!pe compressor is
not available, a side valYe type
can be used together with a
M
short length of 91" pipe or a
bushillg slotted at one end, used
as a spacer between valve top
collar and compressor to enable
r \KtF, tool to clear cylinder head of
rocker boxes.
of head. On alloy type heads, it is advisable to remove any deposit from

the outside of valve guides projecting into port with emery cloth, and to
heat head before removal.
Valvo Reconilitioning-Valve replacement requirements have already
been covered in sub section (b). Valve seat cutting and electric grinder
servicing details are covered in Chapter Twenty-one, "Machine Shop
Practice." Servicing seats and valves with electric valve grinder equip-
ment which can easily be done at almost any g:arag'e, is recommended, in
preference to grinding in with valve grinding paste. When accurately
done, no grinding in is required.
Irl. 17E
VAI,\.E GIiINDING
Although seniclng of valves wlth electrlc refactlg antl seat gTtndlnglnequlpment.ls-recom-
comparatiYely good
ft such-equipment-ts not ivailable and-where valves are
-""a"J.
;;;;;;.-";;;i"*-i" -varvewith abrasive compoud glves qulte
uv--rr*a satisfactory, results'
i;;';if;;ry:,;;-o:r.v. ilp" erinding toot ilru;trated tflps tbe top end of the valve
it"h is r v".y usefuf tool for -O.tt.V.-type valves that have no screwdriver siot in the
""a
r"i"" t""a. -d regular suctim cup tool. carilso be used on this type' A back and forth
*"tio" srr"ura be-used, ana att t-races of valve grinding compound lemoYed fIoE valves,
seats and ports after job is done.
Reassembling Valves-Smear 6tiff g'rease on the valve stems and

under cuts on stem end, so that when springs are compressed the cones
can be set in this grease to hold them in place while compressor is being
released. Do not overlook valve spring bottom collar.s where these are
fitted. On Ariel Si4gles, a heat insulating washer is fitted between the
valve spring bottom cups and the cylinder head.
To Check Va,lve Grinding Job--Pour about an egg'cupful of gas into
each port, and observe for leakage past the head seatings. No seepage
should be noted in a matter of 10 or 15 seconds, if a first-class job has
been done. Very siight seepag:e in this time is permissible, but if gas
drips past the seats, it indicates inaccuracy in reseating or refacing, or
need for further grinding in.
Valve Stem End Caps-Refitting these should not be overlooked.
They are still used on Ariet Single O.H.V. motors, but on the rnajority of
other O.H.V. motors they have been dispensed with by providing hardened
end valves.
Fitting New Piston Rings-To . determine whether an oversize is
required, measure the lower unworn end of cyiinder with micrometer if
MOTOR SERVICING 437
available, and check measurement against standard bore size shown !n

the "Clearance and Settings" section. Adequate ring joint g.ap is an
essential factor. FiIe joints to provide .005,, gap per inch of cylinder
diameter in the unworn section of the cylinder. e.g. Ariel 850 c.c., i2 rnm.
bore, .015" joint gap. Test by inserting ring and squaring it up in the
lower end of cylinder with the piston. Scrape all carbon from bottom of
ring grooves.
niti# .l::lri.r
'.,11:':
i,.,'Jn
4.+;::;i$ li:+i;rl$
IIl. 1t9
F'ILING A PISTON RING r'OR, JOINT GAP

Atlequate piston ring joint gap is essential. Required gaps range from.010,,-.018,, and
should be_ checked vith piston ring squared up with piston, in lower unwoin end of
cylinder, Refer to "clearances and settings" section for-gap;pecifications. A convenient
method is to secure a fite in rins as;in;t file. Rins shoutd be hetd.
"t""
"?S"jnifi;rXrr."Irlti.
TOP O\rERITAUL REASSEMBLING
1: A complete set of gaskets should be on hand. Tf all joint surfaces
-have been well cleaned off and correct gasket
used, no jointing compound
is necessary, except on joints where no gasket is used., such -as Triumph
timiag covers, where gasket sheilac or other jointing compound shourd be
used, Do not overlook replacing the pushrod tube rubbers.
2. Fit piston to rod. W'arm if pin is tight. If pin is being tapped in,
support piston well on opposite side to avoid bending rod. Be sure to
refit retaining circlips. tr'it new circlips if available. rf not, old ones may
b-e,refitted. rf they are not ti,ght in piston, stretch slighily, and straighten
if bent during removal. Note piston is refitted as originaJly ihstalled.
3. Wipe piston rings and cylinder clean. Oil these parts and pour
so,me oil over the eon-rod big-end. support piston with bottom of skirt
resting' on crankcase cylinder base surf.ace. cylinder cah be fitted over
piston rings very easily without a ring compressor. stagger the ring
J.oints,
then start the cylinder._on over the top rlng enteringf-tt" top riig
into the cylinder first,-th-en press in on ring opposite-joint *rtitu ioinl
is lowered. x'it over 2nd and Brd rings tit<ewile, tilting cyrinder" "jrtina",
to go
over the ring joints first and then push in on ring oppisite joint as
cylinder is lowered. Cylinder base nuts should be tightened securely and

evenly.
4. Magneto Timing-The drive chaincase should be removed and chain
tension adjusted if slack in tightest spot exceeds a//z't, Adiustto Y+" slack
by stiding magneto back on base. Tighten ba.:se bolts securely. Check oil
pump screws for tightness before refitting cover. Before fitting the
cylinder head, it is good poticy to check the ignition timing in relation
to piston movement, as it can be measured more accurately than through
the spark plug hole after the cylinder head is fitted. Ignition timing details
are listed on all popular models. Refer to summary of contents.
5. Note that no gasket is used between the cyiinder head on most
O.H.V. Singles with a spigot joint. This applies to Ariel Singles up to
and including 1951, and also the 1952 Ariel Singles with alloy head. Certaln
other O.H.V. Single motors, however, such as Panther, Royal Enfield,
Matchless and Norton use cylinder head gaskets. On types that do not
use head ga;skets, if joint leakage has been experienced, the head should
be lapped onto the block, using a fine vaive grinding compound similar to
grinding a valve. Take care not to the head and apply an even
pressure when doing this. Clean away all traces of compound afterwards.
6. Rocker Boxes a,nd Tappets-Before fitting, note valve stem end
caps, if used, are on the valve ends and the piston is at top of compression
stroke. Refit pushrods in original positions, Note that the long bolt for
each rocker box (Ariel Singles) fits in the extreme right side hoie. Standard
valve clearances on Ariel O.H.V. Singles are .001" inlet, .002" exhaust.
'When reassembling after top overhaul, it is initially desirable to allow
an extra .001" clearance and reset tappets after a short period of operation.
7. Carburetor-See Seetion 3 of this chapter. Cleaning and refitting
with new flange gasket is ali that wiil likely be necessary, unless over 10,000
miles have been covered, when replacement of throttle valve and throttie
valve needle may be required.
8. Spark Plug-Clean and set gap .015"-.018". Replacement is often
beneficial at 5000-mile intervals. See Chapter tr'our, Section 5, "Spark
Plugs."
9. Magneto Pickup-Remove pickup; wipe off, gently push some clean
cloth into the pickup opening in magneto and turn over a few times. This
will clean the collector ring, Refit piekup. Note that carbon brush is free
fit in pickup body.
Refit tank and panel in unit as removed and tighten holding bolts
10.
evenly, sufficient to compress rubbers slightly and wire up through holes
in bolt heads to ensure against unwinding'. Conneet up oil gauge union,
rocker box oil lines, speedometer drive and gas 1ine.
11. Check Card-Before starting up, check the items in the first
column "Check on Assemb1y," on the check card shown on page 115. After
road test, check items in second column.
(e) Crankcase Servicing

Removing the Crankcase from the Frame (Ariel Singles)-The clutch
must be dismantled, then the outer primary chaincase removed, followed
by the engine sprocket and inner chaincase. Ariel clutch dismantliqg is
detailed on page 274.
The front engine plates should be removed and the rear engine plate
frame bolts can be removed and crankcase bolts slackened, enabling the
MOTOR SEIRVICING 439
crankcase to be removed with the magneto mounted on its platform. As

an alternative, the magneto can first be removed, rear engine plates
removed also, and the bare crankcase only removed.
Wash down the outside of crankcase before commencing'dismantling.
Remove the magneto and magneto drive sprockets, oil pump, etc. The
sprockets on both the magneto and cam spindle are plain taper fits and
easily removed with the special threaded puller provided in the tool kit.
Dismantling the Crankcase-This is quite straightfonrrard, The timing
pinion mainshaft nut is left h.and thread on Ariel Singles; also the nut
on the fl5rwheel end of the right mainshaft is left hand thread. These are
the only two left hand- nuts on Ariel Single machines. The crankshaft
timing gear is a straight fit on shaft with key, and is easily removed with
Ariel puller No. 66-1935, if available.
Separating Crankca,ses-After securing bolts are removed, crankcases
are usually separated by lowering crankcase assembly from a height of
about 6" striking drive end on bench top,
Bearing Removal-Crankcases should be heated for removal of bearing
races. Note-The left side drive side bearing race on Ariel Singles is
secured with a circlip which must first be removed.
Con-rod Big-end Servicing-This is dealt with in sub-section (f),
pages 440-443.
Crankcase Eeassembling-After con-rod big-end .servicing has been
completed, fllnvheels reassembled, and aligned, crankcase reassembly can
be proceeded with.
Installing Crankcase Main Bearings-Crankcases should be heated
when bearing races will be an easy fit in cases. Note spacing collar rs
fitted between the two drive side inner bearing races and do not overlook
the circlip securing the left side drive side outer bearing race in crankcase.
Fl5l1rtqr"", Spaaer Washers-On Ariel Singles, a thin washer is standard
on the right flywheel shaft against flyvrheel, and a thick washer on the
left fll'wheel shaft. Flylvheels should be free in crankcase when assembled,
and endplay up to .020"-.030" is permissible. Note-Endplay will be
reduced after the shock absorber and engine sprocket is assembled, as this
draws the flprheel assembly against the left bearing' inner race.
Cra,nkca,se Oil Passa,geways-When cleaning crankca;se, the oil
passageways from the oil line unions to the pump outlets, and the oil
return pipe from bottom of crankcase to pump outlet should be checked
w"ith a squirt can or air pressure to make sure they are clear. A jointing
compound such as gasket g'oo or gasket shellac should be used on crank-
case joint surfaces.
It is quite important that all engine plate, crankcase
and frame bolts
and nuts be thoroughly tightened when reassembli4g. To avoid oversight,
it is wise to go over all these nuts a second time.
Engine Sprocket and Clutch Hub Nuts-Often these nuts are insuffi-
ciently tightened when reassembling. The clutch hub nut should be
tightened first. Best method to secure shaft is to engage high gear and
apply rear brake. Nut should be hammer-tightened and locked to shaft
by locating centre punch at edge of threads and striking with hammer.
Engine sprocket nuts should also be hammer-tightened. On Ariel Singles,
a double nut is used with a lockwasher in between.
Connect Up fhe Oil Gauge Union-ff fitted with an oil gauge, be sure
this is connected up before starting motor, otherwise considerable oil may
leak over motor.
440 REICONDITIONING AND SERVICING BRITISH MODELS
Ilt. 180
ASSEMBLING THE CRANI(CASE
Noto the drlve side crankcase assembly wlth flywheet assembly already fitteal, ts blocked
up on bench top. Detatlg of an esily made support block, useful for supporting craD&cse
when assembling, is shown in Chapter 21.
In. 181
1IIETEOD OF' IIOLDING MOTOR !'OR BENCH WORI(
After crankcase is dsembled, motor should be secured to vice as lllustrated for remainder
of assembly. An old. girder type front fork link or length of strap iron can be used, boltlng
througtr one of the crankcase engine plate bolt holes. This will provide a very secure mehor
which is most important as it is difficult to tighten such important items as cylinder base and
head nuts sufficiently and evenly, if motor is not securely held. Illustration shows cyliDder
base nut being tightened.
MOTOR SERVICING 44L
Lubrication Check-Make sure the motor oil tank and front chaincase
have been refitled before starting up. After motor starts up, observe
that oil is returning to tank from crankcase where there is ho other oil
pressure indicator fitted, Oil feed to overhead rockers can be ascertained
by slackening the banjo union dome nuts, when seepage of oil should occur.
(f) Con-rod Big-end Servicing
Separafiing Flywheels-Straight Press Fit Type Cra.nkpins-Ariel Red

Hunter Singles and various other models such as Matchless, A. J. S.,
Royal Enfield, Velocette, Norton and some other makes use a straight
press fit for the crankpin ends in flywheels, and flywheel sepa,ration should
be undertaken as shown in Illustration 182, supporting the uppermost fly-
wheel and driving out crankpin.
FII,wheeI Separation-Ta,per Fitting Type Crankpins-The Ariel
Deluxe Single models and other popular machines such as B.S.A., Panther
tapered crankpin ends. I'lywheels are most easily separated on this type
by removal of one crankpin nut, then driving a large chisel as a wedge,
between the flyrvheels near the crankpin. It is important that fly-
wheels with the straight fit type crankpin described above, should not
be separated in this manher as the crankpin holes'may be damaged. The
fnethod shown in I11. 182 is quite suitable for either type of separation, but
th6 we{ge method should only be applied to tapered fitting crankpin types.
ru. 182
srreiier:rxc irr.r"wrrunrs
Flywhee.ls with straight press fit type crank-
pins are best supported for separating as lllus-
trated. Two short lengths of 6" channel steel
Ileams make a. Euitallle suppo.t. First remove
one crankpin nut, locate flywheel assembly. as
strown and drive out crankpin from upperlnost
flywheel with hammer and drift,
This method can also be used on taper fitting
crankpin types although this type is more
simply separated by. driving a large chisel or
wedge between flywheels neaa crankpin,
Securing of Flywheel Assembly for Con-rod Bi.g-end Nut Removal-

If flywheel shaft is to be gripped in vice, it should be protected by
wrappiqg with emery cloth or soft sheet metal. I'lywheels can be blocked
from tufning by slipping a bar through flywheel hole and between vice
jaws rvhere flywheels are drilled, or the lower crankpin nut can be allowed
to jam against end of vice jaws, preventing fllnvheels from rotating. In
the absence of a vice, crankpin nuts can sometimes be unwound by sharp
hammer blows on wrench handle, or using a punch on nuts.
Exa,mining the Con-rod Big-end Bearing-If a micrometer is available,

crankpin should first of all be measured for wear, and rollers measured
likewiie. Most rod bearing rollers are .250" standard diameter. Where
rollers show .002" wear, this will allow an up and down play in con-rod
of at least .004". If crankpin and con-rod race are both in sound condition
and show very little wear, a new set of standard rollers or .001" oversize,
will usually give satisfactory results with rod race honed. Oversize rollers
are not available for some types, and in such cases where new standard
rollers do not give satisfactory fit, replacement of the complete big-end
arssembly is necessary.
Where oversize rollers are being fitted on uncaged type big-ends, a

check shoulcl be made to ascertain that at least .010" circumJerence clear-
ance is left. That is, it should be possible to fit a .010" feeler gauge that
is narrow enough, between two rollers, lMhen assembled on the crankpin
and rod fitted. This circumference end clearanie must be present. It is
only likely to be taken up in instances where oversize rollers are fitted or
crankpin is reiground.
Big-end Clea,ra,nces-Between .00%" minimum and .001" maximum
con-rod big-end clearance should be provided when setting up. This means
that the bearing should be quite free but with no perceptible up and down
clearance. side clearances vary on single cylinder type roller bearing
big-ends usually ranging from .005"-'015", and it is quite normal for this
clearance to be exaggerated when felt at the top end of the connecting
rod. On most English single cylinder models, where complete ne\M crank-
pin assemblies are supplied, the big-end race is provided with an allowance
ior contraction on insertion into the rod, and normally, no honing is
necessary. There are some exceptions, however' and where necessary,
con-rod big-end races should be honed after installing to provide a free
fit on crankpin rollers.
Grinding Crankpins and Honing Con-rod Big-end Eaces-This u'ork,
together with other machine shop jobs, is covered in chapter T\renty-one.
Con-rod Big-end Race Removal end Fitting-Old race can be pressed

out and new race installed in a vice. An old race with inside diameter
slighily larger than outside of race to be removed, can be used against
rod in-vice ind old race pressed out into this a.is new race is pressed in.
Con-rod Alignment-It is good policy to have con-rod checked for
alignment before reassembling flywheels, and trued if necessary' Very
uneven cylinder bore and piston wear are indications of a bent or twisted
con-rod. Auto supply firms usually have excellent equipment for con-rod
aligning.
Check OiI Passageways to the Big-entl-The right flyi;vheel shaft oil
passageway through to the con-rod big-end should be checked with an oil
squirf can-or air pressure. On Ariel standard Siqgles, the crankpin is peg
located in the right flywheel, and when reassembling', should be fitted in
this ftywheel first. on the Red Ilunter models, the crankpin big-end is
peg located on the left flywheel, and when reassembling should be fitted
intrri" flyr;rrheel first. Oil feed to big-end is invariably via drilled right
flywheel shaft and flyr;rrheel, with the exception of the Panther. on these
machines, big-end lubrication is provided by oil flow from cylinder oil feed
and flywheel throw'
MOTOR SERVICING 443
rrr. 183
STIIAIGIIT EDGE }IETIIOD OT'

CHECI{ING F'LY}VIIIIDL Atr,IGN}I NT
A straight edged rule held across the
flylvheel froilt. faces, approximately 90
degrees from crankpin, makes fairly ac-
curate assemllly possible when aligning
equlpment is not available. A c!-eck
should be made on both sides of the
crankpin. The illustration shows an
exaggerated case of malalignEent.
When rule contacts both flywheel sur-
faces evenly, shafts are usually within
.0c2" of true alignment.
Flywheels can usually be "drifted" into
alignment even after fully tightened, by
use of a heavy soft hammer on the high
flywheel, supporting other flywheel only,
directly opposite, on bench top. To avoid
"bruising" flywheel rim faces, a soft
hammer should be used, and hammer
blows applied sli8htly beyond 90 d.egrees
from crankpin so that area requireal
tevel for straight edge checking will not
be damaged.
Iightening Crankpin Nuts-Crankpin nuts should be tightened very

fitting soeket
secureiy, using approximately 100 ft. lbs. torque, and a good
wrench.
Smear the Crankpin r$ith Thick Grease to Holil Rollers-This facilitates
fitting of the con-rod big-end over the rollers on the crankpin on either
the uncaged or caged type bearing rollers.
Assembling Fly'wheels-After the crankpin has been fully tightened
rnto one flywheet, and con-rod fitted over the rollers on crankpin, the
other flywheel should be fitted and drawn up moderately ti,ght with the
crankpin nut. Note that crankpin and shaft tapers should be free from oil
or grease. On the straight press fit type of crankpins, flywheels should
be located approximately in alignment, and pressed on in vice, using a
tube spacer over crankpin end. Tighten crankpin up moderately, theh tap
flywheels to give approximate alignment.
Aligning Fl5rwheels-There are various methods of aligning flywheels.
The simplest is just to use a straight edge such as a steel rule across
the face of the fly'wheels, approximately at right angles to crankpin. Tap
flywheels as necessary with soft hammer, and gradually tighten crankpin
nuts until flywheels are completely tightened with front face of the fly-
wheels level across. This method is quite satisfactory where the flywheels
are accurateiy machined and can be applied quite successfully to mostly
all British models.
An alternative method is to check alignment in between the lathe
centres, using' the micrometer feed on the tool rest to check shafts for
runniqg true, or if available, using a dial gauge. To obtain satisfactory
alignment by the lathe centre method, it is essential that the shaft centres
be in sound condition and concentric with the shafts. One of the best
special t5rpe of flywheel alignment jigs is the Arie1 shown in I11. 184.
This centreless type jig provides for quick and accurate alignment.
Jigs using "V" block type supports for fl)rvrheel shafts are adaptable to
accommodating all types of flyvrrheel assemblies.
ru. 184
This Ariel factory type of flywheel alignment

jig enables quick md accurate flywheel shaft
alignment. Note the V bl@k for preventing
rotation while tightening,
A jig of this type can te maile up to handle
atmost alt flywheel assemblies by use of
sleeve bushings to adapt to different shaft
sizes.
This type of jig is much superior to the latho
centre type, as condition of shaft centre holes
aloesnot matter and the flywheels can be very
quickty assembled in excellent aliBument,
Section 2
LUBRICATION SYSTEMS AND OIL PU1UPS
The various tlpes of lubrication systems and the servicin^g require-

ments are covered- in Section 4 of Chapter Four, pages 722-128' Recom-
mended oil grades are listed on page 126. For lubrication details applf ing
to individualmakes, refer to the lubrication section in the chapter coYering
the make concerned.
Efficient operation of the lubrication system is essential to realizing
satisfactory reiults from motor reconditioning. When motor is being
recondition;d, oil tank should be thoroughly flushed out, oil lines and
filters cleaned, all internal oilways blown out, oi1 pump cleaned, and
carefully reassembled.
oil Pump and Tirning cover Ga.skets-These should be replaced u.ith
factory-made gaskets where available. If being remade, be sure to use
gaskei materi;I of original thickness ard check to ensure that all gasket
6il par"ag"way holes are correctly located to avoid any restriction to
oil circutition. On gear tgle pumps, it is most essential that gaskets
between pump sections should not be of more than the original thickness.
Gears should just have sufficient end clearance for free running. Any
additional end clearance greatly reduces pump efficiency.
AMAL CARBURETORS 445
Itlentifying Feed a,nd Rbturn Pumps-On dry sump systems, the large
pump is the return, and the smallest pump is the feed. This is to ensure
that atl oil accumulating in bottom of crankcase will be returned to tank.
Insta,llation of Ailditional OiI Filter-The standard wire gauze feed
and return screen type filters are not really effective except for preventing
circulation of relatively large particles. Where machines are operated
under extremely dusty conditions, longer engine life can be otrtained by
installing an additional oil filter. One of the accessory ear-type oil filter
units c.an be fitted quite satisfactorily. Best method of connecting is in
the return oil line between return pump and tank. It shouid be noted that
on automotive application, only a portion of the oil is circulated through
the filter, and a relatively small inlet hole is used to avoid excessive loss
of oil pressure. Where the entire oil is to be circulated through filter, the
inlet hole at filter should be opened out to not less than Vre,, diameter.
The use of filters does not eliminate the need for draining oil periodically,
as, althoqgh they remove abrasive matter and reduce wear, they do not
prevent the dilution of oi1 which considerably impairs its lubricating value.
Section 3
AMAL CARBT,BETORS
(a) AmaI Carburetor Types

The Amal carburetor has been the almost exclusive standard equipment
on most British motorcycles for many years. The only exeeptions are the
S.U. fitted to the Triumph 650 c.c. Twin, the Solex fitted to the Ariel 1000
c.c. tr'our, and Villiers carburetors as fitted to the Villiers 2-stroke eng"ines.
The three main types of AmaI carburetors in use on current production
models, are listed below:
(a.) The Needle Jet type.
(b) The 2-Jet and Lightweight Needle Jet types.
(c) The T.T. and Track Racing types.
Of these, the first listed-the Needle Jet ty'pe-is by far the most
common, being standard equipment on practically all 250 c.c. and larger
British motorcycles.
The 2-Jet type has generally been used on 725-775 c.c. models in
the past, but this has been replaced by a simplified Needle Jet carburetor,
differing from the standard Needle Jet type in that the ftoat ehamber and
carburetor body are a one-piece casting'and no idling jet is provided.
The T.T. and Track Racing types are mainly supplied on racing
machines, although sometimes fitted to sports type machines turned out
for both road work and racing.
NEEDLE JET CARBUBETOR TYPES AND SIZES

!'our distinct types are produced. These were identified prior to 1934
by the prefix figures 4, 5, 6 and 29. These types had brass bodies. Since
1g3+ die-cast bodies have been used, and identified by the numbers 74,
75, 76 and,89. These carburetors are produced in a range of bore sizes
as Iisted below:
Type Boro Sizes
27/62tt
74 -25/32"
75 ..n6 -'n
76 aVta"-1"-l7Ao"
89 7,94,2"-L 1h"
The differences in bore size in any one type involve a different body
and jet block only. Other parts are interchangeable.
Needle Identification-These are stamped 4, 5, 6 and 29 near the top
end to fit carburetors with corresponding prefix figures.
Needle Jet Sizes-One size of needle jet fits all types, 4, 5 and 6 up
to and including 77Aa" bore, length of hexagon section is 1%0". The 29
and 89 types of 73/zz" and,71/a" bore, use a needle jet measuring lTta" length
of hexagon section.
Standard needle jet bore size is .1065. On a few motors, .1075 and
.108" needle jets are required; need for these larger sizes being evideneed
by weakness of mixture between Y+ and a/a throttle with the needie ful1y
raised.
Needle jets are made in .113" size for use with alcohol fuel'. \Yith
such fuel, increase in main jet size ot 60Vo to 7507o is also required.
dependent upon fuel blend.
Throttlo Valve Cutaways-Throttle valve cutaways are stanped at
the top, the first figure indicating the type of carburetor for which it rs
suitabie, and the second figure the amount of cutaway in one sixteenths
of an inch, for example, a 7r throttle valve fits type 6 carburetor and has
a/rc" cutaway. The z% throttle valve is for a 29 type carburetor and has
s/rc" cutaway.
Standard Carburetor Settings Sp'ecification5-f{sfsrsngs should be
made to the "Clearances and Settings" section of the chapter on the make
concerned, for standard carburetor settings data.
Ma,in Jets-These are numbered, sizes ranging in steps of "fir-e" beloi-t
100 and in steps of "ten" above 100.
(b) AmaI N'eetlle Jet Carburetor Atljustments

Before Attjusting carburetor-It ls advisable to check ignitlon. ciean
spark plug, breaker points, and check timing' An ignition fault is sone-
times the cause of needless attention to carburetor.
Throttle Control C,able Slack Adjuster-This is located at the top of
carburetor on some types. Note cable closest to motor is the throttle and
screwing adjuster out reduces stack. oir some models cable adjuster is
in cable near twist grip. On this tSpe slacken locknut, unscrew as
required, to take up excessive slack. It is desiratrle to set with minimurn
slack noting that idling speed is not altered by turning handlebars to
extremes of movement,
AMAL CARBURETORS 447
1. Ia[ling Air Screw-This is the spring-loaded screw located close to

the carburetor eng'ine flange or clip connection. Screwing this in (clockwise)
reduces air supply, and makes idling mixture richer. Screwing it out
(anti-clockwise) increases air supply and weakens idling mixture. This
adjustment influences mixture only within a range of closed throtile to
7g open. Procedure is to turn in air screw fully, which will give an
excessively rich idling mixture, then unscrew g'radually until motor
hesitates noticeatrly from too weak an idling mixture. X'rom this point,
turn screw back about one turn. On some types it will be found impossible
to get an excessively weak idling mixture, and on these it is usually best
to comproneise with the idling screw out about three turns. rf it is desired
to operate with the idling air screw unscrewed further, it is advi,sabte to
stretch the idling spring. Otherwise, idling screw may be lost clue to
lack in spring tension.
2. The Throttle Stop Screiv-This is the slanting screw with locknut
on the side of carburetor body. It contacts the throttle valve and regulates
the idling speed with the throttle closed. Screwing in (clockwise) increases
idli4g speed, and screwing out (anti-ctockwise) slows idling.
3. The Throttle Va.lve Cuta,way-The amount of throttle valve cutaway
affects the carburetor mixture between t/s and r/+ t}:,rottle. Throttk!
valves are normally supplied in %e", ahe" and 5Aa" cutaway. The smaller
the cutaway, the richer the mixture. Standard throttle valve as listed
in the "Clearances and Settings" specifications, should normally be correct,
and a change should not be m.ade unless it is impossible to get satisfactory
carburetion after adjusting idling mixture and throttle needle position.
The throttle valve cutaway influences the acceleration especially when
opening up from closed or nearly closed throttie.
4. The Throttlo Needle Position-There are five grooves in the top
end of the throttle needle, and the needle is secured to the throttle by a
spring clip. On the aver.age, standard setting is with clip in middle
groove on needle. Lowering the throttle needle, that is, clipping it in a
groove closer to the top, gives a weaker setting, and raising the needle,
that is, clipping it in a lower groove, gives a richer mixture.
The needle position controls the mixture between t/a arrd s/+ throtfle,
and has a great influence on acceleration and gas consumption. Too Ioi\M
.a needle setting may cause poor acceleration and hesitation when throttle
is opened, while at the other extreme too high a needle setti4g wiII cause
unnecessarily heavy gas consumption. For best performance, needle should
be set high enough to overcome hesitation on accelerating, but for the
best gas mileage, needle can be set a notch or two lower to where a slight
hesitation is evident when the throtile is opened fairly quickly.
5. The Main Jet-The size o,f the main jet regutates the mixture from
3/+ to fttll open throttle. The main jet is the small hexagon screwed
into
the bottom of the needle jet, and is stamped for ,size. The larger the
number, the larger the jetand richer the high speed mixture. A larger
main jet does not alter the mixtureat below 3/E ope\t throtile. The gas
flow below this throttte opening is regulated by the metering effect of,
the tapered throttle needle in the needle jet. The size of the main jet can,
however, affect the mixture at below 3/+ throttle if the needle jet is very
badly worn, and where the needle is located in the highest posiiion.
Reference should be made to "Clear'ances and Settings,, specifieations
for standard main jet sizes, which will be found conect for avera,ge service
conditions. Note that on many machines where an aircleaner is fitted, one
or two, and sometimes three sizes smaller main jet is required. When
operating at altitudes in excess of 5000 ft. a size smaller main jet is often
required. X'or racing with an open exhaust, one or two sizes larger main
jet than standard are needed.
The best method. of determining the most suitable main jet size is to
test the machine out on a clear stretch o,f level road on full throttle, with
air Iever fully open. The most suitable main jet can easily be selected
by making a number of maximum speed runs trying out within a ranS:e
of one or two sizes smaller than standard, to two or three sizes larger.
If the speed and power seems slightty improved by either closing the
throttle slightly or by closing the air lever a small amount, it indicates
that the main jet is too small and a size larger should be tried out. The
appearance of the spark plug if removed immediately after the full throttle
work, can also indicate the suitabiiity of the mixture. A "sooted" plug
nose indicates too rich a mixture; a whitish grey appearance may indicate
too weak a mixture.
F or best performance, main jet size should be sufficient to give
maximum speed and power with wide open throttle and a.ir slide right up.
F or better g'as mileag'e, one size smaller main jet can be used, but it is
inadvisable to run with too small a main jet when driving hard, as a weak
mixture cause,s overheating.
IU. 185
MAIN IET This illustration shows the rangg

of throttle opening through whlcb
NEEDLE pOStTlON :f,:x,uT3":.tn:itr"*,1{i'"*'I? ft
tf
TH RorrLE cur AWAY i'"X"o,1"",i?'llI*,$i"""
"-1?lr
""9".,8
ptLor AtR ADJUSTMENT #":i""i lT"tilf;,,11'"TJS#3: H
jet
. []ain
-causing size is much too 6mall,
RANGE AND SEQUENCE OF ADJUST}'IENTS weakness towards the top
end of the needle range.
THROTTLE STOP
Ilt. 186
AIIAL IDLING ADJUST}IENTS
The inclined throttle stop screw on the left adjusts idling speed; turning in clockFise
increases idling speed anC turning out reduces. Jdling should be set slightl]' faster than the
slowest possible speed with spark control between half and full retard if ignition advance is
not automatic.
The idting mixture adjustment is shown at right. Turning this screlv in clock'ilise reduces
tdling air supply and richens idling mixture; turning out weakens. Adjust with motor lvarm
from turned in position and unscrew until hesitation is noticed, then screw back in 1! to 1
full turn. Serew should not be unscrewed more than 4 or 5 turns as loss of screlv may result
from insufficient sprtng pressure.
AMAL CARBUR,ETORS 449
N,ECONDITIONING THE AMAI NEEDT.M JET TYPE CARBUR,ETOR

No replacements are usua[y necessary under about 1b,000 miles;
'when reconditioning
at about this mileage, ihe parts ]isted below should
be examined and replaced if hecessary:
Throttle Valve
Needle Jet
Jet Needle and Ctip
E loat Needle
Throttle valve replacement is often found necessary at b000-10,000-mile
periods, when operating under dusty conditions without aircleaner. Replace-
ment_ of the above parts- will usually restore carburetor to new efficiency.
The jet block need hot be replaced unless throtfle valve guides are worn
considerably, or unless bent, due to careless removaJ, Jausing throttte
valve sticking.
Jet Block Differences-on the standard AmaI Needre Jet type car-
b_uretors,the jet block differs, depending on whether tne carburltor has
the, four external primary air holes dritted in the base of a carburetor
body or whether it has a single internar primary air intake identified by
the absence of the four intake hores drilled at thl base of the earlier type
carburetors. The jet blocks on these two types differ, and are not
interchangeable.
when jet block repracement is to be made, it is most important
the correct internal or external air feed type jet block as iequired,that be
fitted. The carburetor mixture _w-ill be eo*pi"tuty upset if trre wrong type
jet block is fitted. care should be taken [o secure the correct bore size
of jet block. size required can be determined by measuring *itt
internal earliper, Note, there are usualry three boie sizes or--5et'btocks"r,
that have the same external dimensions.
surfacing the carburetor Joint Frange-There is a tendeney for this
type of joint flange to become ,,bowed,, especially if too thidk a joint
gasket has been used. To check, hord up to Iight with a straight edge
rule across the flange; true up if necessary by careful fili4g, art*ernating
filing from one side then the other. Another method is to iay a piece o1
emery cioth, say No. 100 or No. 80 grit, on a flat surface arrd m'ove tfre
carburetor back and forth, bearing down on the carburetor to exert an
€ven pressure on the flange.
A Ievel carburetor joint flange surface is important to avoid air
leakageat joint and distortion of carburetor body'ihen flange ,r,rt" ,"u
tightened.
The Flango Joint Gasket-This shourd be of not less than .010,, or
more than .020" thickness; /e+" g'asket material is very suitabte. Asrestos
jointing material is unnecessary as there is insufficieit rreat:ai
to affect ordinary gasket paper. tr,i.;oir,t
(c) Clea,ning ttre Amal Needle Jet Carburetor

Mileage intervals between creaning periods are dependent on the
-
operating conditions. carburetor cleaning should be done *t t"*"i.i
top overhaul, and more often if need is indicated. Lack of "-r""y
""ai*""i no*r
and filter equipment is responsibre for comparativery frequent
"i"a"i"g,
CLiCK SPRING
AIR SLIDE THROTTLE SPRING
THROTTLE SLIDE
NEEDLE
AIR FUNT "-

MIXING
CHAMBER
STOP SCREW
LocK scREw-€
aorr*--@) b-
FLOAT FTAIN JET

CHAMBER
UNION NUT
FLOAT NEEDLE
}TOLDING BOLT
TIIE AMAL NEEDI.E JET TYPE CARBURETOR DISMANTLEI)

AU parts of the standard Amal Needle Jet Type Carburetor are identified ln this
illustration, Refer to pages 446-448 for details of adjusting procedure. The plunger type air
slide control illustrated is used on a few types, but the handlebar lever air slide control is
more common. Note that operation of the idling air screw is opposite to the pilot jet
adjustment shown on the T.1. type carburetor, Itl. 188, Air screw turns in to enriehen and
out to weaken the idling mixture.
AMAL CARBI.IRETORS 451
so-metimes being required. The fitting of such equipment rs well worth-

while as it will usually eliminate nbed for carburetor cleaniqg between
overhauls. Need for carburetor cleaning is usuary indicated f,y erratic
idling, usually a resurt of a smafl obstruction in th; idling jet hote in the
Jer block; over-flooding as a result of dirt on float needle seating; and
fading out of the motor when throtile is opened, as a result of obstruction
in main jet.
Before removing' the carburetor, it is a good policy to slacken the
gas line connection, float chamber lock screw and floai chamber cover,
float chamber holding bolt at bottom of carburetor, and mixing chamber
union _nrrt directly above float chamber connection. Next, undo tf,e throtile
assembly ring nut and- the two flange nuts, withdrawing the throttle
assembly after the carburetor is removed from studs. c-arburetor can
then be taken to bench for further dismaniling and creaning. A good oil
squirt can filled with g'as or solvent is useful f=or cleaning p"urposEs if air
pressure is not available. Remove the float, and scrape o"i
from the bottom of float chamber, and wash in gas oriolvent."ir sediment
rt is not essential- to remove the jet block. The air hores and pilot
jet passa,ges can be creaned out by squirting through witir ihe oi] can.
frTote-The gas feed for the pilot j;t is tocatea in the bottom of the jet
block, and is accessible when the carbureto,r mixing chamber union nut
is removed. Air pressure or pressure squirt shourd r-e apptieo io ltris rrote.
rf the jet block is to be removed, and it is tight, warm carburetor
slightly. Do not use any.force tapping it out from tleiop urA, or'it *.y
be A good method ot remJvat is to grip the niec,e';ei
.damaged;
and draw the carburetor away. when jet bro"ck- is "irreinsmatt
vice
idling jet passag.eway should tL ftown out. ""*or"J,
Pilot Jet Gas Passa,ges-obstruction of the pilot jet g:as passag.eway
in the jet block itserf is a common cause of idting troubie. forren a
block is removed, it should be observed that the gis feed io tire p}ot 5et
enters through the hore in the bottom of the jIt rtoct< r"s".- irr" g.as ;ut
Pr"lul_through a very fine hole, entering at right arlgles above, anA it
is at this point that obstruction most oftEn occurs. The further passage-
way hole in the jet blo-ck itself, directly above this hole which comes into
operation when the throtile is slightiy opened, and arso
passageways trre pilot J.et
in the earburetor body itserf, shourd not be o"""root"o.
The pilot jet pass-ageways are very smalr, and care
not to enlarge when cleaning. rf not cllared satisfactorily should be taken
or pressure squirt, a fine stiff brush brisile can be used. i.sty-"i"
in
p""u..,.r""
art6rnative,
a sing'Ie strand of light inner contror cabre wire may be
emproyed exercising.
eare to avoid hole enlargement.
Main iret-obstruction in main jet is easily detected when herd
Iight; clear by blowing through. to
Reassembling the carbu'retor-This is just the reverse

After installing jet brock, fit a new jet block washer and of dismanring.
tighten *i*iag
chamber nut securely. x'it and tighten the needle jet and *-ui"l"t.
always advisabre to instalr the throtile assembry beror" *o""[i"g rt i.
buretor, then the operation of the throtile can bL observed, anJ """_
assembly installed much mo_re easily. Tighten the throtile varve tirrottre
ring nut on top of the carburetor, secuiely. rf it is difficult assemtry
ring nut threads to start, make sure that the ,,dog,' _-----ioi to ,et trre
p'i""u i.
engaging with the slot on the top end of the carburitor.
CLIPA
-lgi
$
)@
(@)
& RICfi \Y/.IgK
@6p ffi@
Ill. 188
TIIE AMAL T.T. TYPE CARBUBETOR DIS}IANTI'ED

jet
type Amal
Although of somewhat similar general construction to the standaral needle
the T.T, type illustmted above differs in that no throttle air slide is located
fitted'
"urt".ito",
there bein8 a sepaiate air inlet controlled by handiebar air lever' Air slide cap
-carbureior
is
nut at
ui .ia" ot llody. The main jet can be removed by merely taking off the
t,otto*orcar]]uletorwithoutdistulbingfloatchambel.Note-Thepilotjetadjllstment
opelatesoppositetothatofthestandardneedlejett-vpecalbuletol;turningingivesa
mixture' Needle adiustment is the same as
Jeaxer lalirg mixture, and turning out a richer
for standard tYPe.
similar design' but with needle at side of mixing
A remote needle type is also producedofofneedle in air intake' owners of machines with the
;;"-;;;; eliminating stight resiriction instruction
X-ri-t.t. carburetor should obtain the leaflet issued by the manufacturers which
gives detailed tuning information'
AMAL CARBUERTORS 453
Throttle valve sticking-occasionaly, after instaling a new throtile

valve, or reassembling carburetor, throtile valve stiekingf wilr occur-the
I
valve not sliding down by pressure of spring when thrott[ is crosed. when
this occurs the jet block should be remove]d and if the throtfle ,ui"" .liri
t
does not slide down freely with the jet block removed, it atmost certainly
indicates that there is a high spot on the throtile valve or in the carl:uretor
I body. If the throttre varve is-not at fault, the best thing is to carefulry.
I hone the carburetor trody on the Sunnen bushirlg grinder 6r similar
equip-
ment, sufficient to enable throttle valve to sldJ fieely.
lf the trouble only occurs when the jet brock is fitted, troubre
certainly is due to a slight bend in the jet block guides,'resultingalmost from
pressure applied from atrove in an attempt to remove jet block.
bent jet block can usualry be straightined carefuil-y by squeezing A s-lighfly
I the
block endways in vice, or tipping down on the high A faaty OamageO
jet block of course, fe reptaceO,
shouJd, ""1f.
Float chamber servicing-Note-The froat tid rockscrew shourd arw.ays
be slackened before attempting to unscrew float chamber lid, and retight-
ened after fitting to prevent Ioss. rJsuar causes of overflooding'are as
follows:
1. Dirt on float needle seating,
2. Worn needle seating.
3. Too high a ftoat level.
4. I'Ioat tickler shaft too long.and touching float.
5. Leaky float.
F loat chamber and_ needle seating should be first cleaned,
same time float should be shaken. rn this way a reaky froat is at
and the
easity
detected. rf troubre persists, a new float needri shourd nu i*iual"ano
ensure ,good needle seating., instail needle and float Iid, and give to
hammer tap on bottom of needle (bottom feed). The top iuEO a light
iypu
be tapped into the float chamber cover. A right tap is srifflci".rt,"trri. "uni"
the most effective method- of obtaining u, gooo Grinding in with
an abrasive, is not satisfactory. tnere * a remotJ""aing.possibilitly of, the
1u*u being slighily rols and striking the float lid, or ilre riodt tickler
shaft- being too rong and louching floaI. srackening lne
will determine if such is the cause. ria a turn or two
(d) Amar 2-Jet and r{eedle ,ret l,ightweight carburetors

The 2-jet (non-needre) types, 52, bB, and 93 are of simpre construction.
The carburetor body and float chamtrer are in one casfin|. t*o
i"t" ,ru
fitted. The high speed has the extended end and fits towards trre caJburetor
air intake. The short row speed jet fits towards the engine ot
buretor. These jets are accessibre for creaning when the"plug:"rro """_
at iottorn
is removed. The onry mixture variation is bJz changi"i -irr"-:"t". sizes
are 'graduated up and down from standard in five,s. r"ne most
trouble on this type is plugging of jets. "o,,*o,
The two-jet type carburetors referred to above have recenflv been
replaced by a simpre needle jet t],pe carburetor, numbers zzs iia zat,
as fitted to Royal Enfield and B.S,A. ]-25 c.c. models respectiveiy. These
carburetors have a throttle needie secured w'ith clip, simiiar to tfre larger
needle jet types. No idling mixture adjustment ii provided. The needle
position controls the carburetor mixture tp to 3/+ throttle' and the main
iJ;i* above this opening. on 2_stroke-Q4res, where excessive "four
itroking" occurs, it is generally an -indication of too rich a carburetor
*i*tu"6 and this can be ielieved,"usually, by lowering the needle one notch.
ClipTypeCarbrlretorAttachment_Mostoftheseunitshavethe.clip'l
type m-ountiinB.If run loose, air leakage will effect carburation, especially
,i-lo* speeds. If wear on the mounting spigot prevents-complete tighten-
ing, tit i shim so that secure tightening can tre effected'
Itlling Speetl Adiustment-No throttle stop screw is -used .on these
typesandiolingspeedwiththrottlec]osediscontrolledbyoutercable
ad-juster at top of carburetor, screwing out increases idling speed and
screwing in reduces.
StoppingMotor-Onsomemodelswithoutacompressionreleaseor
ignitionswi-tch,idlingadjustmentissetslowenoughsomotor:.willdie
*itf, throttle fully closed. It is more convenient to have adjustment
set so motor will idld with throtile fully closed and an ignition of
"-"i cut-out
light
io, can easily be made by attiching a suitable tength,
sie"t-u.O"r a.cylind", head bolt locating free end aboat.a/z'-' above
"ioppt"S
spring
pr"g
"Anterminal. dressing this into contact with piqg terminal shorts
"p""x-
pfrig. insulated knob is not necessary; no shock will be felt touch-
""t
ing the bare metal due to the gtound at head stud'
SolexCarburetors-lg5z Ariel Square Four Models

ServieingoftheseunitsisdealtwithinChaptertr.ive,.,Ariel
Servicing," Pages 203-206.
S.U. Carbut'etors
TheS.U.isacar-typecarburetorjustintroducedformotorcycleuse,on
and ior 1952 is fitted tt- tlre Triumph 650 c.c. Twin. Thirteen,
Servicing details
trri* are g.iven in section 9 of chapter "Triumph
"rrurretor
Servicing."
COLD WEATHEB CARBUR,ETOR SER,VICING
presence of water in gasoline is the chief cause of carburetor trouble
-1""operating at below freezing
wtre., temperatures' Gas stoppage as a result
of iormlng- in iets, bottom of float chamber, or gas iine may occur.
This is best overcome by addition of about % cupful of aicohol to each
water, preventing it from freezing and
i""f. gas. This will a'bsorb thejets.
"t to pass through the Occasiona] draining of carburetor
"""[ri"g"it
tfoat n&rf is advisable when operating under freezing conditions.
MAGNETOS 455
Section 4
MAGNETOS
Lucas and B.T.H. magnetos are standard equipment on most English

motorcycles. Notable exceptions are the Wico-Pacy flywheel magneto on
the B.S.A. 725 c.c, model, Miller flywheel magneto on the Royal Enfield
725 c,c, and the Villiers flywheel mag'neto used on all Villiers engines,
Servici4g details on these units will be found in the servicing chapters on
these makes.
Lucas and B.T.H. mag:netos are of basically the same design, using. a
permanent magnet, and having the high tehsion and low tension winding:
and condenser built into the rotating armature. The high tension is taken
o{f lhe collector ring on armature by one or more pickups, depending on
whether a Single or Twin type.
I
(a) Magneto Servicing R0quirements

unless ignition irregularities indicate the need for earlier attention,
magneto maintenance is best confined to the recommendations listed below.
Every 2000 Miles-Clean breaker points and adjust to the correct .012,,
fully opened gap. securely tighten point locknut and centre securing screw.
Point Cleaning-tr'ine emery cloth is most suitable for point cleaning,
.although when points are badly pitted, time will be saved and better results
obtained if points are first dressed with a point file, or on an electric
grinder, followed by use of fine emery cloth. A smooth finish on point
contact surfaces is important, and points should be wiped perfecily clean
after dressing, with a gas-moistened cloth. All traces of emery 6ust or
poiht filings should be removed from the point assembly.
Although points can be serviced in place, where some amount of
dressing is necessary, it will be found more convenient to remove breaker
assembly, particularly on machines having rather inaccessible points. Lack
of spark immediately after point servicing, is sometimes aue to a small
particle of cloth used for clea'ning, being left between points. Drawing a
piece of paper through points is a good method of final cGaning.
Point Assemt{y r,ubrication-Refer to rll. 1g9 and 190 for lubrication
details on the sleeve cam and face cam type point assemblies.
High rension Pickup and colrector Ring cleaning-At intervals of
about 5000 miles or oftener if necessary, remove trre hfuh tension pickup,
wipe it off clean. Note that the brush works freely in trre pictup, and
projects at least 1/Bt'. To clean the eollector ring, carefully stufl a cioth in
the pickup opening and revolve motor a few times. Notion some models,
notably Ariel singles, where the magneto makes a tight joint against
drive cover, crankcase vapor may find its way into the magneto. This
sometimes necessitates removal o,f the pickup, and cleaning as described
at 1-2000-mile intervals.
ATING SPRING
rlt. 189
CONTACIS
SLEEVE OAM TYPE BREAI{EE
ASSEMBLY
-Twinof breaker is
This type usetl on all
iucas and tr"our type magnetos
a:so was used on Single cylin-
""a
der types uP to 1936. B.T'H. mag-
..i""'"nave-a similar breaker.the A
aroo of oit should be applied to
,.m Pivot and the cam
"o"i.". oilea or greased when clean-
tietlttv
i"?-- i"a adjusting Points. Normal
seivtcine interval is 2000 miles'
CON'TACT
BREAKER
SECU R IN G LOCK
SCREW NUT
CONTACTS
rl1. 190
TIIE LUCAS MAGNETO T'ACE CAM LOCK NUT

TYPE BI(EAKER, ASSEMBLY
1937 and later type Lucas Single mag-
netos use this type of brcaker. Note the CONTAC'I
screw indicated that carries lubricating BREAKER
wick for cam. This sclew can te re- SECURING SCREW
moved, first removing the eontact
breaker spring securing screw, and a
drop or two of oit applied to wick at SCREW CARR
poiat cleaning and adjustment periods LUBRICATION WICK
of about 2000 miles. As an alternative,
a drop of oit can be applied directly to
the breaker cam. when reassembling
breaker, note the small breaker spring: SCREW SECURING
is fitted with the concave side out.
CON'TACT BREAKER
SPRIN G
MagnetoReconditioning-Mileageatwhichmagnetoreconditioning
is required, varies considerably. It generally is good policy to continue
op""rtio., without disturbing magneio, providing only breaker point and
pichup servici4g, until noticeable ignition irregularity develops' When
armature
ii*ittg cover is iemoved a check should be made on the magnetodrive
shaft bearings by lifting up and down on the armature shaft gear
nut. Barely -percLptibte ptay ls not harmful, but' noticeable up and down
shake to the Lxtent of .005"-or more indicates need for magneto dismantling
and bearing adjustments. It is inadvisable to continue operation longer
than necess"ary when this condition develops, othenvise armature may be
damaged as the result of striking magneto case.
Excessive armature shaft bearing clearance quite often develops at
anearlymileageonB.T.H.andLucasmag:netos,andiSinvariablydueto
the drive side outer bearing race insulato cup deteriorating and allowing
the race to loosen in the magneto case. Beari4g servicing'instmctions will
be found on Pages 462-464.
MAGNETOS 457
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(b) Lucas lllagtlyno Equiprnent

The Lucas magdyno has been standard equipment on a Iarge number
of English models for many years. The design and servicing requirements
have remained unchanged. The lower section of the magdyno is the
magneto, and the top'section, which is quickly removed as a separate unit,
is the dynamo (generator). A fibre gear mounted on the magneto armature
shaft, drives a smaller steel gear on the dynamo armature shaft.
Lucas Magneto Dismantling

1. Ma,gneto Gear Bemoval-Magneto drive gears and sprockets are a
taper fit on armature shaft, On the separate unit type mag-netos with
automatic advance, the armature nut has a withdrawal shoulder, which
draws advance unit hub off shaft taper when nut is unwound. On some
makes, magneto g:ear or sprocket hub is threaded to accommodate a
special puller, Where puller equipment is not available, removal can
usually be effected by using a claw-type gear puiler if available, or
slackening off magneto mounting bolts or stud nuts, slackening armature
shaft nut one or two turns, and giving a sharp rap with hammer, allowing
gear or sprocket to contact the timing case.
2. High Tension Pickups-These should be removed to avoid damage
to collector ring when armature is withdrawn.
3. Sa,fety Ga,p Ground Screws-Remove the safety gap ground screw
from under collector ring on the base of magdyno type magneto where
fitted. Note, on some Twin model ma,grretos, two safety g'round screws
are fitted, and both of these must be removed. These are located in the
vicinity of spark pickup openings.
4. Ground Brush-Ilnscrew ground brush holder. On magdl'no equip-
ment, this is located on the front side towards breaker end, and on
separate unit late model type Lucas magnetos, on top towards the drive end.
5. Removing Breaher Point Assembly-On the sleeve cam tgre, remove
centre screw and pry lightly under the spring mounting post with a
screwdriver. The face cam type breaker assembly is easily removed. After
the spring blade and centre screw have been taken out, if it is gripped
with a pair of pliers, it can be pulled straight off.
6. Magdyno Drivo Gear Removal-Remove gear cover and drive gear
retaining nut, first folding over g:ear hub lockwasher. Note-a simple
method of, securing armature shaft from turning is to thread on the
armature shaft nut, and tighten vice on nut' This will usually hold arma-
ture sufficiently to enable the large g:ear nut to be unscrewed and after
vice is slackened, armature shaft nut will thread off easily.
7, Arrnature Removal-Make sure that pickups, ground brushes and
safety gap screws where fitted, are removed. On the mag:dyno type a slight
amount of pressure is required, depending on the tightness of fit of magdyno
gear hub on armature shaft. A good method is to grasp the magdyno case
in both hands, and lower sharply to bench top on armature drive end.
After armature is removed, check the drive side bearing race in
the magneto case, and note that this is tight. If not, it should be
removed and replaced with a thicker insulating 'washer. See page 464.
MAGNETOS 459
Armaturo Coil and Condenser Testing-lf soundness of these is in

doubt, have tested at a magneto shop equipped with suitable test equip-
ment. If condenser only is defective, replacement of this part can be
made by dismantling and reassembling of the armature. Special bearing
race pullers, however, are required for removal of armature race and
collector ring, to gain access to armature body securing screws. Such
work is best done at a magneto shop with special equipment.
Where armature coil is defective, replacement of complete armature
is recommended, as fitting a replacement coil to old armature ends can
seldom be done without affecting true running.
Simplo Method of Armature Coil and Condenser Testing-Serew contact
breaker centre securing screw into armature, and using a 2-volt battery
or one cell of a motorcycle battery, connect one terminal to the screw;
connect other battery terminal to ammeter and complete 1o"l' tension circuit
by grounding other ammeter terminal to the armature body. Note-
Ammeter reading should be approximately 4 amps. if the primary winding
is in good condition.
The high tension or secondary wiring can be tested as follows: Use
the same primary circuit as described above, Quickly make and break the
connection to breaker assembly centre screw in this circuit a number of
times, and test the high tension spark by means of a length of high tension
cable, grounding one end on armature body, and holding other end about
ls" frorn collector ring. The spark should jump this gap readily.
lhis test is facilitated if armature body is clamped in vice and
grounded end of high tension cable is clamped to armature.
If less t}ran 7/s" spark jump, high tension winding or eondenser defeet
is indicated, Replacing of complete armature is generally advisable if the
results of the above test are unsati'sfactory,
Breaker Assernbly Replacements-Replacement of the complete
breaker assembly may occasionally be found advisable for such reasons as
badly worn or loose rocker arm pivot post, weak spring or damaged taper
hub key in the sleeve cam type. When replacement is being made, note
that it duplicates the original as left-hand and right-hand assemblies are
made suitable for clockwise and anti-clockwise rotation.
Cam Ring Replacements-On the sleeve cam type breaker cam ring
replacement may be necessary at 20-40,000 miles, dependent on lubrication
that has been provided. On the Twin and tr'our type cam rings, replacement
should be made when wear causes a difference of 1Ae" or more in the timing
measured on piston movement between two cylinders. Where a difference
exists that is not completely corrected by replacing cam ring, it is
necessary to compromise on timing, setting slightly advanced on one
cylinder, and slightly retarded on the other.
tseassembling the Magclpro T5rpe Magneto

1. Make sure that all parts are thoroughly cleaned and free from
moisture.
2. Load bearing retainers with magneto bearing g'rease, or other
stiff grease.
3. Tighten cover screws securely, noting that armature shaft revolves
freely, without any qp and down clearance in shaft. Refer to sub-section
(e) for bearing adjustment details.
4. Adjust points to .012" gap fully open; on Twin types where there
is a difference in gap provided or the two cam lifts, it is best to split this
difference. For example, if setting points on one lift dt .072" gap provides
.016" on other lift. It is best to adjust to provide .010" and .014"
respectively.
5. Note that safety gap ground screw is refitted. This applies espe-
cially to types such as the 1948 and earlier Ariel Four.
6. If magneto can be tested on a magneto tester, or electric drill,
it should be run at speeds up to 3000 r.p.m. for the Single or Twin type;
or up to 5500 r.p.m. on the Ariel Four type.
7. If the spark is weak, it may be advisable to have magnet charg'ed.
ffthis is being done, the magnet polarity should be carefully identified wlth
a compass before placing on charger. 1937 and later ty,pe Lucas magnetos
do not normally require mqgneto charging.
8. Refit the fibre gear hub to armature shaft. Note that the two half
moon keyways are fitted. See I1I. 191 for correct order of assembly of drive
clutch parts. The drive gear clutch hub nut should be securely tightened.
A simple method of holding armature shaft from turning while this is
being tightened, is to thread on the armature shaft nut and clamp in vice.
After releasing from vice, it will be found that nut can easily be unwound.
9. Before fitting g'ear cover, pack the case well with fairly heavy
8:rease such as eup grease'
i{GH TEl.rSton SAFETY GAP EARTHING

PiCKUPS scREws BRUSH
CONTACT BREAKER
AUTOIlATIC TIMING
P SECURING
CLIP
In. 192
LUCAS }IAGNETO DIS}IATTI,ED

The above illustlation shows the Lucas separate unit type magneto dismantled, with parts
identified. The B.T.H. magneto is of similar construction except the collector ring (slip
ring) is located at the drive end and the high tension pickups are secured with screw-in
sleeves instead of clips as on the Lucas.
l
MAGNETOS 461
(c) Lucas Separate Unit Magnetos

The servicing information given on the magdyno unit is generally
applicable. On most later type separate unit magnetos a rubber oil seal
is fitted on the drive side. Replacement of this oil seal should be
made when overhauling if there is evidence of oil having worked through.
Note that this rubber oil seal fits into case first before the insulator and
race.
Failure of Cutout Button to Operate-On Twin models that are fitted
with a low tension cutout button, failure to stop is sometimes due to a
dirty ground brush. Removal of ground brush and holder, and cleaninS:
of armature ground brush track by stuffing some rag: in ground brush
hole, and revolving a few times, cleaning off brush and replacing, usually
overcomes the trouble.
(it) The B.T.H. Magneto
The separate unit B.T.H. magneto is of similar eonstruction to the
Lucas, and the Lucas servicing details given under sub-section (b) are
generally applicable.
Spark Pick-ups-These are secured with sleeve type nuts. Pick-ups
must be removed before attempting to withdraw armature. When re-
assembling note that a cork gasket fits into magneto case before pick-up.
Safef,y-Gap Ground Screws-Note that one is fitted on most Single
magnetos and two on Twin types, screwed into magneto body near spark
pickup hoies. These ground screws must be removed before attempting to
withdraw armature, otherwise the collector ring will be broken.
Development of very excessive bearing play is invariably due to the
drive side bearing outer race turning within the case and deterioration
of the fibre insulator. When this occurs, race should be refitted with a
thicker insulator. When magneto ease is warmed up to boiling water
temperature, race should be a light tap fit with insulator into case.
Standard B.?.H. bearing race insulator thickness is .008". If r.ace is just
slightly loose in case, addition of a .002" paper shim should be tried, and
if this is loose, a Lucas bearing' race insulator, part number 457379, of.
.017"-.012" thickness wiltr likely be found suitable.
Bace Installing-The best method of installing bearing race and
insulator without special equipment is as follows: Load bearing retainer
with thick grease and fit onto armature race. Place on outer race loaded
with thick grease, and also locate bearing insulator cup to race with
g'rease. Note-If of the early type with leather oil seal, a flat steel washer
fits next onto insulator, followed by oil seai. AII these items are best held in
position with grease. On the later type with rubber oil seal, oil seal is
first pressed into magneto.
Support the magneto armature on a tube spacer on bench top with
drive end up. Magneto case should be lowered over armature and tapped
down, forcing' race into position. To avoid possibility of breaking drive
end of case, due to race comi4g up against case drive end, a 5/8t'| }l.ole
should be drilled in a block of wood, and magneto located with drive end
down and drive shaft extending through hole. Pressure can then be applied
on end of armature without possibility of pushing race through drive end of
case.
Bearing Adjushnent-This is effected by adding or removing shims
from contact breaker end cover. Armature should be perfectly free with
just barely perceptible end play with no up and down play. Check with end
cover screws fully tightened.
462 REICONDITIONING AND SERVICING BRITISH MODELS
(b) Magneto Bearings

Bearing Failures-Appreciable beari4g wear is unusual. The bearings
are adjustable by removal of shims from the end cover, and can be further
adjusted by adding or removing the shims from behind the inner races
of the armature shaft. When considerable bearing play develops, it
invariably results from the drive side outer bearing race loosening in its
fibre insulator (which rapidly becomes worn). Causes of this trouble are
bearings originally hot having been provided with any end play, and the
races not having been a sufficiently tight fit in the insulators in the
magneto case. High operating temperature of the drive end of the magneto
also adds to this trouble.
When this eondition develops, a noise that might be mistaken for piston
slap may be evident, in some cases very excessive play in the bearings may
develop from this cause without noise or ignition irregularities being
evident. Such bearing trouble should be rectified as quickly as possible
after its presence has been detected, to avoid damag:e to the armature.
It is good policy to test the condition of magneto bearings whenever the
breaker points are being adjusted, by lifting up and down on the breaker
point assembly, Whenever the timing cover is removed, test for up and
down play on the magneto drive g:ear or sprocket nut. A slight up and
down play of .003"-.004" a.nd up to .007"-.008" endplay is not serious, but
if play exceeds these figures, magneto should be removed and repairs
effected.
Bearirg Raco Replacement-Bearing races do not normally require
replacing, and when slight clearance has developed from wear, adjustment
by removal of end shims is all normally required. When races are a tight
fit ia cases, do not disturb them. Where races are noticeably rusted and
pitted as a result of moisture in magneto, replacement is advisable. Heat
case to remove.
Ilt. 193
RElIOl'I}iG ARIIATI--R'E
BEAB,ING RACE
A magneto bearing race puller is shown
removing drive side almature race.
This race requires removing for re-
placement of collector ring or dismant-
ling of armature for condensor replace-
ment, This type of race puller has two
tapered splil collars that grip in the
centre of bearing race. This race puller
is also useful for bearing adjustment
lvhen sufficient range of adjustment is
not provided by the end coyer shims.
Shims can be removed or added behind
shaft bearing race as necessary.
t-
MAGNETOS 463
Ill. 194 Ill. 196
INSTALLINO A LI]CAS MAGDYNO DRIIIE END BEARING R.{CE
lllustration 194 (left) shows the first step, magneto armature is inverted and held in vice,
tightened. on drive end nut. Bearing outer race is secured to ball retainer with stiff grease.
Race insulating washer ls laid over race and magneto case is lowered, magneto cast being
guided by the armature. Magneto case should be first r-eated to aboul boiling wate;
temperature.
Illustration 195 (riBhu. The race with insulator is fo.ced into magneto case. A 1%6,, box
socket as shown makes a suitable spacer. A larger diameter spacer should not be [;ed, as
if excessive force ls applied, magneto case drive end may be broken out.
The above is a simple and satisfactory method of race Instalting when special equipment is
not available. Note that on the separate unit type magnetos with drive side oil seal,
inverting armature as illustrated cannot be done, and the recommended procedure is to drill
? 9/t6" or Ve" hoTe in a block of wood, locating magneto case over this hole, driye end dom.
The bearing race should be located with stiff grease and insulating washer likewise on the
drive end. The driye end of armature should then be entered through case and race ddven
ln, using a tube spacer on the breaker end of armature.
This procedure can also be adopted. on the magdyno type as an alternatiye to the method
illustrated above. The support block of w@d must be of sufficienUy small outside dimensions
ttlat it fits within the magdyno driye gear case so that enal of case is supported d.irectly under
the bearing outer race.
If one of the procedures detailed above is not follcwed, there is danger of the end of
mag:neto case breaking out when bearing race ls installed
Bearing Adjustment-The final adjustment of bearings is obtained

by removal or adding of shim spacer washers-from the magneto end
cover, or by removal or adding spacer washers from behind the drive
side armature shaft race. When this is done, be sure to tap the race right
home with a hollow tube spacer before testing for clearance each time a
chang:e is made.
Bearing Race Installing-Lucas bearing race insulators are supplied
in thickness of .011"-.012". Insulator part. number 463932 is the type
generally used on magdynos and number 451379 on separate unit magnetos
with the smaller diameter outer race. Where wear has occurred in the
magneto case as a resuit of insulator cup and race turning, a paper shim
should be added of sufficient thickness so that race is a very light press
fit into case when magneto is warmed up to boiling water temperature. It
is advisable to warm the magneto for race and insulator installing, to
reduce installing pressure required, and ensure a tight fit at normal
temperatures. If special installing tool is not available, proceed as follows:
1. Warm magneto case.
2. Load the bail retainers with stiff ,grease. X'it outer race onto ball
retainer, followed by fibre insulator located centrally over race' On the
separate unit type magneto, a %" hole should be drilled in a block of
wood, magneto drive end located over this, and armature used as a driver
for pressing race into place. On the Lucas magdyno a simple method is
seen in II1. 194 and 195.
(f) Miscellaneous Magneto Details
Ma,gneto Charging-This is seldom required, but is best done with

magneto cornpletely assembled. Polarity should be checked with compass
to ensure correct positioning on magnetizer.
Magneto Armature Shaft Threads-On all Lucas and B.T.Ir. magnetos
a 7s B.S.F. thread is used (20 threads per inch). Take care not to a.ttempt
fitting nut with incorrect threa.d. Most other a/s nuts on English motocycles
are 26 threads per inch.
Magneto Condensa,tion-On some models, notably Ariel Singles and the
1948 and earlier I'our models where the magneto makes an oil-tight joint
a.gainst timing g'ear cover, oil and water vapor may be forced by crankcase
compression into the magneto. The first consequence of this may be
ignition irregularities due to condensation on the pickup, "shorting" high
tension current. Cieaning off the pickup and the collector ring will tem-
porarily restore spark, but this trouble should be eliminated, otherwise
magneto armature coil, condenser and bearings will all deteriorate and a
complete armature and bearing assembly may have to be fitted if machine
is operated for a long period subject to condensation dam4ge.'
When motor is in sound condition and no appreciable amount of
combustion leakage occurs past piston rings, this trouble is seldom
experienced. On Single models where trouble occurs, and piston rings and
cylinder are in sound condition, the breather valves should be examined.
"Crankcase breathing" into the magneto on Ariel Singles and F ours,
can be laf,gely reduced by fitting a washer made either from leather or
heavy gasket material about .030"thick. This should be cut out about 1
l
j
MAGNETOS 465
1" outside diameter with the hole a very tight fit on the armature shaft.
F it this up against the magneto drive gear cover before installing magneto.
This will largely prevent crankcase pressure passing to the magneto via
the armature shaft clearance in the magneto case.
The Lucas oil seal, part number 458375 that is used inside the new
separate unit magnetos, can be used outside the case in place of the
gasket washer described above.
A further step that can be taken to prevent vapour getting into the
armature section of the magneto, is to drill a l/Btt hole in the magneto
I'ear cover. Any pressure that gets past the shaft seal referred to above
will be able to escape via this hole, rather than forciqg into the magneto
body. This hole should be located towards the bottom and rear of magneto
g:earcase to ,avoid entry of water.
Magdyno Gear Lubrication-These do not normally require the addition
of any lubricant in between reconditioning: periods. At intervals of about
15,000 miles, I'rease can be added through the generator opening if over-
hauling has not become necessary.
Magneto Timing-The timing procedure on all popular models is
dealt with in the Servicing Chapters on the individual makes, and reference
should be made to summary of contents.
(g) Automatic Advance Units

Non-interchangeability of Advance Units-Magneto automatic advance
drive gear units are not generally interchang'eable between different maftes
of machines as is the case with magneto parts, because of differences in
timing gear teeth, and in some cases the range of advance provided. X'or
this reason, if a new advance unit is being obtained, it is most essential
that the make and model of motorcycle be specified when ordering, not
just the make of magneto. On the Triumph, where either B.T.H. or Lucas
mag'netos are used, either make of advance unit can be fitted to these
magnetos, but it is recommended that advance unit to match magneto
equipment should be obtained when replacement is being made.
The B.T,If. Advd1rce Unit-Loose brass rollers are used to provide
the centrifugal force to operate this advance. Il,ate of advance is controlled
and mechanism returned to retarded position by a clock-type spring located
behind gear hub. No servicing is normally required, but when removed in
the process of mag'neto servicing:, unit should be thoroughly washed and
all traces of rust removed.
The Lucas Automatic Advance-Centrifugal force is provided by
two hinged weights controlled by two extension type coil springs. Manu-
facturer's specifications for these springs are 72-74 ounces at %o', extension.
When servicing, units should be thoroughly washed and if spring's are
noticeably rusted, replacement is advisable.
Testing Automatic Adva,nce Operation Without Removing Timing
Cover-Operation of the automatic advance can be tested without removing
timing cover, by revolving breaker point assembly in direction of rotation.
If this is done with breaker located where points are closed, the advahce
mechanism return springs should revolve breaker back to the retarded
po,sition quite smartly. If spring action cannot be felt, and breaker does
not return, timing cover should be removed and automatic advance ex-
amined. A broken spring is likely the cause.
Stiffness of Advanco Unit-If there is a distinct stiffness in the
operation of the automatic advance when operated by hand, the trouble
may be due to a rusted mechanism if the machine has been idle for a
considerable period of, time, in which case advance unit should be soaked
with penetrating oil. If stiffness in operation of advance mechanism is
apparent after assembly of magneto to machine, likely cause is too tight
a mesh between the magneto ,gear and intermediate gear. This sometimes
occurs on machines such as the B.S.A. Twin, and to overcome, the magneto
flange stud nuts should be slackened off and a screwdriver wedged between
the lower magneto stud and case while nuts are tightened. This will move
magneto gear slightly out of mesh. Just a trace of back lash between
the intermediate gear and the magneto automatic advance gear is desirable
to allow for free operation of the advance unit.
Section 5
GENERATOES
Generator Maintenance-With the exception of oiling the commutator

end bearing on 1949 and earlier Lucas types, littte attention is normally
required until overhauling at 15-20,000 miles. If charging irregularity
develops, it is worthwhile to wash commutator with gas, 3/e"
check brushes for
freedom in the holders, and replace if worn to less than iength. During
routine checkovers of motorcycles, the generator securing bolts should be
checkedfor tightness, and on magdyno equipment especially. the generator
clamp band screws and the end stud nut should be checked for tightness.
I:93'l-52 Lucas Generators

'193?-49 Tyre-This is a 2-brush type generator desigrred for use with
a voltage regulator unit. See lll. 196. A non-adjustable type ball bearing
is used on the armature drive end, and a porous bror.rze bush at the
commutator end. To avoid premature wear of this commutator end bush,
it is essential that a few drops of oil be provided through the opening in
bakelite end cover at 1000-mile intervals. Drive-end bearing is packed with
greaso on assembly, and needs no attention until dismantling for
overhauling.
1949-52 Type-During the 1949 season a longer ty'pe generator was
introduced, giving greater output. A ball t3'pe bearing is used at the
commutator end on this later type, replacing the bronze bush previously
used, otherwise, it is of similar construction. It should be noted that a
larg:er capacity regulator, No. MCR2 is used with this larger capacity
generator in place of the No. MCR1 unit used on the smaller type.
GE]NERATORS 467
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468 RECONDMIONING AND SERVICING BRITISH MODELS
Lucas Terminals-Generator terminals are marked

"D" terminal is from main brush and eonnects to "D" regulator terminal.
"tr" is the field terminal and connects to "tr"'terminal on regulator. Other
field coil terminal is g:rounded in generator w'ith Bround brush lead.
Positive and Negative Ground Generators

Miller-All Mitler generators up to 1952 have been supplied for
operation with negative battery ground.
Lucas Negative Ground-1951 and earlier equipment with rare excep-
tions was supplied for operation with negative battery g'round.
Lueas Positive Ground-Early in 7952 a changeover was made to
positive ,g:round, the change coinciding with the use of colored cable
insulation on wiring. Positive ground generators can be identified by the
Ietter "F" stamped after the serial number on g:enerator body.
Changing from Negative to Fositive Ground-This can be done as
follows:
(1) Reverse ammeter connections.
(2) Reverse battery connections (ground positive terminal).
(3) Change g'enerator polarity by momentarily connecting' negative
battery terminal to generator "I'"' terminal, with positive battery
terminal grounded.
Changing from Positive to Negative Ground-Replacement Lucas gen-
erators are being supplied for positive ground and if it is desired to retain
the negative battery ground on 1951 and eariier equipment when a later
generator is fitted, generator polarity can be corrected by momentarily
connecting positive battery lead to generator "I'" terminal with negative
grounded.
Miller Generators
The Miller generator is used chiefly on Velocette and Vincent machines,
also on 1948 and earlier Panther models. The cutout is mounted on com-
mutator end of generator accessible when end cover is removed. No
regulator is used on the 3-brush types, but on the later 2-brush equipment
a separate regulator unit is used, mounted outside g'enerator in the field
coil circuit. The cutout unit, however, is retained in the generator.
Terminals-The 3-brush ty'pe have two terminai posts, with different
size holes to suit the small and large plqg-ins to ensure correct fitting of
plug-in. The terminal piug-in post with the large hole tightens onto the
lead from the cutout, and is marked "+8" on the cover. The terminal
plug-in post with the small hole tightens on the end of the field coil circuit
and is marked "SH" on the cover. Both these terminals are insulated.
The wire connected to the large plug-in leads to the ammeter. The
wire connected to the small diameter plug-in leads to the switch where
the field coil circuit is regulated as follows: position field coil
circuit ls open, and no charg:e is generated' 'iC" rrcharg'e" position, circuit
is completed with r/z charge resistance to ground, giving a t/2 charge output
from the generator. When the switch is turned on to any of the light
positions, wire from the "SH" terminal is connected direct to ground and a
GENERATORS 469
full flow of current to the field coil is provided without restriction, providing
maximum output from the generator.
When testing this type of generator, wire from the "SH" terminal
should be grounded.
Miller Brush Connections-On the 3-brush type, wide insulated brush
connects to cutout, other wide brush is grounded and the narrow adjustable
brush connects to field coil.
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Aitjustablo Brush-Moving this towards the positive brush increases

the charging rate and opposite movement reduces it.
Miller Generator Bearings-Non-adjustable ball type bearings are
used on both drive and commutator ends. They shouid be packed with ball
bearing grease, or other thick grease when overhauling generator at
15-20,000-mile intervals. Bearings require replacement when straight up and
down play exceeds .004", Note the bearing races are just a light tap fit
in their housings. The drive side bearing is locked in the drive end castinS:
by a plate secured with counter-sunk screws. The armature shaft is locked
in the bearing by a ring nut on armature drive end.
Miller Cutout-Point gap should be between .010"-.015". Points should
be cleaned with fine emery cloth, and adjusted a.,s necessary when g:ener-
ator is reconditioned. The point gap can be varied by bending the two
angle section stops that control the movement of the top movable point;
also, by slackening the stationary point securing screw and moving as
necessary.
When adjusting points, check to make sure that when points close,
the top plate with the moving point, does not contact the magnet and
prevent complete point closing. When the points are closed, it should be
possible to slip a .005" feeler gauge between this plate and the magnet
easily. To provide more clearance at this point, slacken the stationary
point securing serew, move it up slightly, then bend back the movable
point stops to obtain the correct gap. The cutout spring tension is adjusted
by bending the spring anchor in or out. Tension should be sufficient to
cause the points to open smartly when the generator slows below charging
speed. Cut-in voltage is 6.2-6.6 volts.
Generator S'ervicing
Arm"atures-Throwing out of solder from the armature coil connec-

tions to commutator is a trouble that often develops from too high a
eharging rate, due to a faulty voltage regulator adjustment. In such cases,
one or more of the armature winding leads may fail to make contact with
the commutator, or make intermittent contact. If the armature is, in all
other respects, in sound condition, it can usually be satisfactorily repaired
by re-soldering the wires into the commutator and rebinding.
Armature Testing-The three main armature tests are:
1. Testing coil circuits for being complete by going around the whole
commutator testing all segments to the adjacent one. A wire elipped to
each battery terminal will enable this test to be made. Use of an ammeter
in the circuit will reveal a poor connection by showing lower current draw.
If no current is drawn between any two segments, or if there is noticeably
reduced draw, it is usually an indication that connection is loose at com-
mutator. Test should be repeated after soldering.
2. Growler test for magnetism. (Armature short cireuit.)
3. Test for short in any coil by applying one battery cable or other
Iive circuit lead to the armature shaft, running' other cable around all
commutator sqgmenbs. If any spark occurs, a short is indicated and
armature should be rewound or replaced.
GENE}RATORS 471
Gear a,nd Sprocket Eemoval-IJnless it is necessary to remove arma-

ture from drive end for replacement or attention to drive end bearing,
there is no need to disturb the armature shaft,gear or sprocket. Turning
of commutator for instance can be done chucking direcily on drive gear
or by removing gear cap screw and threading in a Y+,, 26 t.p.i. stud,
chucking on this. On chain drive types, sprocket nut can be removed
chucking on shaft end threads.
Removal of armature drive gear or sprocket is best effected with

special puller if available, if not, gear ean sometimes be removed by
carefully prying off with two screwdrivers. Another method is to wrap
gear with soft sheet metal, grip tightly in vice, remove securing screw
and drive shaff out of gear with a length of a/2ttrod and hammer.
Chain sprockets are a plain taper fit on armature shaft. Without a

special puller, removal can be effected before taking of,f generator by
driving a wed,ge between back of sprocket and drive case and striking
shaft end a sharp blow udth hammer and dri-ft with nut removed. On
t5,1tes such as the B.S.A. where generator c.an be removed with sprocket,
removal is easily effected by locating an open end wrench that will just
fit over sprocket hub, tightened in vice. Rest sproeket hub between wrench
jaws and strike shaft end a sharp blow with hammer.
Arma,tu?e Rewinding or Replacement-Armature repairs are not alvrays
completely reliable. tr'or example, if the commutator coil conneetions have
been resoldered a number of times, and the winding shows signs of serious
overheating, it may be a wise investment to have it rewound or replace
the armature rather than repair further. A new armature is to be recorn-
mended to a rewind job if available, at not much more cost. A good rewind
job, however, should give perfectly satisfactory service.
Turning the Commuta,tor-The generator armature commutator shoutd
be turned whenever the generator is overhauled if it is grooved deeply, and
when this is done, replacement of brushes should be made. After com-
mutator is turned, the mica segment insulators should be carefully under-
cut slightly below the commutator bars. This can easily be done by
grinding down an old hacksaw blade so that the width of the teeth is no
more than the width of the mica segment insulation.
"Bench" Testing Generator-After a generator overhaul, and especia.lly

after armature repairs, it is a good poiicy to test the generator for motori4g
at least, and preferably for charging as well, before refitting to the
motorcycle. A motoring test is not. a positive indication that geneiator
will charge as generator will often "motor" while if there is an armature
defect that will prevent a charge being generated when it is driven. ff
generator motors in its running direction, however, it is an indication
that the field connections are right, and if the generator field cohnections
have accidentally been reversed, the generator w.ill motor in the opposite
direction to which it turns on the machine.
Connections for Testing Lucas Generators-To wire up for a motoring
test, eonnect wires from "D" ,generator terminals together to
positive battery terminal. Connect wire from negative battery terminal to
generator body. (Battery terminals are reversed on positive g:round
equipment.) The same connections can be used for generating test, inserting
an ammeter in the circuit
When the "D" terminals are connected together, maximum

generator output is given. If it is desired to test with voltage regulator,
note that generator "D" terminals must be connected to corres-
ponding terminals on regulator. "A" terminal connects to battery via
ammeter, regulator terminal must be connected to generator
frame with battery ground wire.
Luca,s Generator Ptrug-ins-Wires shoutd be spread well over ends of
plug-in end caps, and terminal fibre block tightened securely, to ensure
good terminal contact.
Installing New Field Coil Windings-It is important to note that the
pole shoe seats against the generator body or armature may rub on pole
shoe. It is sometimes necessary to compress new field coils by iight tapping
with soft hammer to enable pole shoe to puII up against generator body.
Make sure that pole securing screw is thoroughly tightened. IJse a very
heavy screwdriver, with wrench on screwdriver for added leverage, and
centre punch lock the edge of body into the screw slot.
Lucas 193?-49 Commutator End Bushing-Need for early replacement
of this bushing is invariably due to neglecting lubrication. A few drops
of oil should be provided at least every 1000 miles through oil hole in
bakelite end cover. Condition of this bushing can be checked by inserting a
small screwdriver or nail through the outer hole, into armature shaft
centre hole and lifting up and down. Replacement is advisable when bushing
is worn to give .004" armature shaft clearance. When new bushing is
fitted, it should be well oiled.
Generator Body Throtrgh Bolts-It is important that these be tightened
securely. Increase leverage on screwdriver by use of a wrench. No trouble
will be experienced with these slackening' off if they are adequately
tightened. Note that lockwashers are fitted under bolt heads and nuts.
A.J.S.-Matchless Type Lucas Generator Bearing:s-lusss generators
fitted to A.J.S. and Matchless Sing'le models, have magneto type ball
trearings at both ends. Bearing adjustment is affected by u,ithdrarving
inner race from drive end of armature shaft and placing shims behind it to
take up bearing clearance. After generator through bolts are fully tightened,
armature should revolve perfectly freely but without perceptible up and
down clearance.
Section 6
LUCAS VOLTAGE REGULATORS

Types of Reg'ulators-This equipment is generally the same from
7937-7952, exceptfor a Iarger capacity regulator being used in the late
1949 and later machines, equipped with the longer, larger capacity
generator. The earlier regulators are type MCR1 and the later type
MCR2. Connections to both types are the same.
Lucas Begulator Terminals-There are four terminals lettered "F",
"A", "D" and "E". The correct connections to these terminals are as
follows:
LUCAS VOLTAGE REGULATORS 473
"X"' Generator Terminal.

Ammeter.
"D" Generator Terminal.
Grounded.
Generator Terminals-The two piug-in terminals are marked
"F." "D" terminal is from the insulated brush and supplies the charge
to the battery via the cutout section of the voltage regulator unit through
the field coil circuit. The other end of field coil is grounded together with
the ground brush lead.
Hovti tho Voltago Regula,tor Works-The voltage regulator contact
points are in the field coil circuit between generator "D" and "F" terminals,
and regulate the amount of current that flows through the field coil.
During operation, except at very low R.P.M., and when the battery is in
a low state of charge, the regulator contacts are continuously vibrating,
opening the field coil circuit when the voltage rises to approximately 8
volts. This causes an immediate drop in voltage and the spriqg pressure
causes the points to make contact again. This again completes the field
coil circuit. This operation repeats continually, and the voltag'e is limited
to the setting determined by the spring pressure adjustment.
Lucas Regul,ator Adjustments-These are shown in IIl. 198. It is
inadvisable to tamper with the regulator unless the procedure for adjusting
is fully understood and need for adjustment is indicated by failure to
charge, undercharg'ing or overcharging. First eliminate other more likely
sources of, trouble such as loose battery terminals and poor wtre con-
nections. Check the plug-in terminals at the generator to make sure these
are snug in their sockets, and making good contact. There are two
adjusting screws. F acirlg these, the left side screw adjusts the cutout
spring pressure and the right screw adjusts the spring pressure for the
regulator points.
Tho Cutout Adjustment-Normally, this only needs aitering in
instances where the points stick together after motor speed has dropped
below generator charging speed, revealed by a discharge reading on
ammeter. rn this event turn cutout adjusting screw in slightly (clockwise).
Note-On the MCR2 type regulators trouble is often experienced with the
cutout points sticking together when motor is idling below chargin,g speed,
and an increase in cutout spring pressure does not always overcome the
trouble. fn such cases it is recommended that cutout stationary contact
be bent towards the moving contact, reducing the cutout poinl gap. A
minimum of .004" gap is permissible. It will generally be found that this
will overcome the trouble with points failing to open smartly when gener-
ator is running below, charging speed. rt is important that the cutout points
are able to make contact under some pressure before cutout top plate
contacts armature core. When cutout point gap is excessive, fending tfre
stationary point support is recommended, and when gap is insufficient,
bend up the stop arm at top.
Before Adjusting Regulator-If a low charging rate has been the
trouble, bridge the two regulator contacts with a screwdriver with motor
running' and observe the charging rate. If a high rate is shown on
ammeter it indicates that the spring pressure is insufficient or regulator
contacts are dirty. In any event, it is advisable to clean the regulator
contacts before adjusting. This should be done with very fine emery paper;
pressing down on regulator top plate will separate points sufficienily to
insert a strip of, fine emery paper. This should be drawn through the
points a few times, then turned over and the operation repeated to clean
both points. After this, a strip of clean paper should be passed through
points to remove any loose particles from points. There are two methods
that ean be used for adjusting the regulator:-
(a) Without voltmeter and (b) voltmeter method.
CUT OUT
Ir1. 198
ADJUSTING sCR,EW THE LUCAS VOLTAGE

REGULIITOR
This illustration shows the main
puts of the regulator unlt' Note
wrren Iacing tne adiusting screws,
the right side screw adjusts the
voltage regulator spring pressure;
tu: ning in increases voltage and
turning out reduces. Normal set'
ting is 7.8-8 volts without battery
in circuit.
Left side adjusting screw regulates
cutout spring Pressure.
Dirty regularor contact points are
REGULATOP a common cause of regulator
SHUNT WNDING trouble. These are easily cleaEed
with fine emery Paper.
ADJUSTING If no charge is shown on ammeter
5CR,EW when motor is speeded uP, before
altering adjustment, Press down on
cutout armature plate to close cut-
out points momentarily ; this EaY
be al1 that is required to restore
charging.
Regulator Adjushnent Without Voltmeter

Have the battery fully charged on an independent charger' Charge
for 24 hours at rats of 1-2 amps. Install battery, tighten terminal con-
nections securely, and make sure there is a good ground contact'
undercharrging-If the trouble is in the regulator reducing the_charge
too soon, cutting down charging'before the battery becomes fully charged,
proceed as follows:-
slacken right adjusting screw locknut and turn in cloekrn'ise about
lzto turn at a time. Re[igfrten locknut and test out, Repeat until maiatained
maximum charge of 5-6 amps. is shown on ammeter when motor is speeded
up equivalent 1o approximately 40 m.p.h' high gear speed' -Wtt-en this
cha"gitg rate is indicated, spring pressure is too great, and adjusting
screiy s-hould be gradually unscrewed until the charge is reduced to 2-3
amps. maximum, then retllhten locknut, This is the maximum charge that
should be developed when the battery is fully charged.
Overcharging-If overcharging has been the trouble, proceed as
follows:-
Set motor running' at approximately 40 m.p'h. top gear road speed,
slacken right adjusting screw Iocknut and g'radually screw out while
observing Ihe ammeteireading:. Screw out until charge is reduced to 2-3
amps., then retighten locknut.
Voltrneter Methotl of Atljusting Regulator

1. Open the battery circuit either by disconnecting one battery ter-
minal, oi placing a, clean piece of paper between cutout points (Ieft side
of regulator unit when facing adjusting screws).
LUCAS VOLTAGE REGULATORS 475
2. Connect positive lead of voltmeter to "D" terminal at generator

(except on positive ground equipment use negative lead of voltmeter).
Leave the wires in place in generator. lf the screw that holds these
terminals is slackened right off, fibre pad can be pulled away allowing
voltmeter lead to be clipped to the generator "D" terminal. Make sure
these plug-ins are snug in generator. If not, withdraw, slip off end cap's
and bare additional wire by removing more insulation and fold over to
give a snug fit.
3. Connect other voltmeter lead to a g:ood ground on the motor or
generator.
4. Start the motor up and accelerate slowly until voltmeter flicks and
settles down. Note the voltmeter reading. It should be within a range
of ?.8-8 volts. lf the voltmeter reading is below 7.8 volts, stop the motor,
slacken the adjusting screw locknut (right side) and turn screw in very
slightly, approximately r,{o turn. Retighten locknut, start motor and note
reading, at which the voltmeter settles down. Repeat this procedure as
necessary until needle settles between 7.8-8 volts.
5. If voltmeter reading is above 8 volts, repeat above operation but
slacken screw.
6.Atmospheric Temperatur*Setting Allowance-The 7.8-8 volt
setting specified above is correct for setting at averaS'e atmospheric
temperatures of 60"-80' !'. If setting is made at appreciably below 60o tr..,
adjust to 8-8.2 volts. If setting is made in extreme heat, in the vicinity
of 100o F., set to 7.6-7.8 volts.
Note-As the above adjustment is made with an open battery circuit,
it does not matter whether the battery is in the machine or not, but the
battery generator cireuit must be "open" by one of the methods described
in No. 1. Be sure the light switch is in the "off" position so that circuit
is not completed from generator through lights. Restore battery circuit
after adjusting by reconnecting terminal or removing paper from cutout
points, whiehever method was used for opening circuit.
Regulator "Gap" Settings-Unless the regulator top plate fixing
screws have been removed or slackened, or shims altered under regulator
stationary point, gap adjusting should not be necessary. To adjust gaps,
slacken the two screws securing regulator top plate to frame, insert a
.018" feeler between back of regulator frame and top plate and press the
top plate towards regulator frame and down on armature core while
tightening screws. (On MCR1 regulators use a .015" feeler.)
The reg'ulator point gap should be within .002"-.008" on the MCR1
t,?e and .006"-.016" on the MCR2, with feeler referred to above removed
and top plate pressed down to armature core.
If gap settings are altered, voltage regulator spring pressure should
be readjusted as necessary using'one of the methods already detailed.
Operating Without Battery-On Lucas reg'ulator controlled generators,
it is possible to operate with the battery removed without damage to
generator. For long distance travel it is recommended that generator
plug-in be removed and the cable ends taped up. This opens the field
coil circuit, and prevents current being generated. For short distance
travel, generator can be left connected in headlight, and switch left in the
"on" position.
Operating Without Begulator-Caution!-ft is inadvisable to operate
the 2-brush type generator, designed for use with a voltage regulator, with
a cutout only, except. as a temporary measure and at moderate speeds,
in instanees where a regulator replacement is required and is not immedi-

ately available. continued use without regulator will re.sult in overcharging
of battery, overheating of g'enerator, and possibly burning out of armature
and field coil. To wire up for temporary use with a Jutout onry, wires
from "F" and "D" terminals should be connected together to cutout, and
wire originaliy fitted to regulator "A" terminal connected to cutout ,,BAT,,
terminal.
Section 7
COIL IGNITION SYSTEMS

Reference shourd be made to pages 1Bb-132 for ignition system
maintenance details.
Luca,s coil rgnition Distributor servicing-when overhauling, distribu-
tor shaft bushing wear should be checked. When it. is possible to vary
breaker point gap .006"-.002" or more by sideways presiure on trreaker
cam, it indicates excessive wear in distributor shaft bushings or between
breaker cam and distributor shaft. Lubrication of the distiibutor should
not be overlooked at regular 1000-mi1e lubrication periods. A few drops
of Iight machine oil should be applied on top of the breaker cam screlv
(under rotor where fitted), and a few drops of engine oil should be applied
to distributor shaft Iubricator where fitted, or to distributor shaft below
breaker cam. A small amount of grease or vaseline should be applied to
the breaker cam. This attention wilt minimize wear.
Lucas l)istrihutor Bushing-Rep,Iacement_When distributor shaft
clearance in bushings exceeds .004", bushings should be repla.ced. Distributor
shaft is easily withdrawn by driving out the gear sicuring pin. Both
bushings are easiiy driven out and new ones driven in. No-r&ming or
honing is normally necessary.
Distributor Termina,ls-condensor terminal, condensor ground scre\r,
Iow tension terminals on di,stributor and coil, should bJ checked for
tightness when servicing.
Luca,s Distributor Tirning .{djustrnent-This is effected by slackening
distributor base clamp screw and rotati4g distributor head against rotation
of cam to advance timing, and with rotation of cam to retard.
SCREWS SECURING
Ir, 199
LTICAS DISTRIBTTOR DET^{ILS

The Lucas coil ignition t].pe automatic ad-
vance distributor is sho$'n. Lubrication should
not be ot,erlooked. A ferv drops of light
machine oil shoulo be appiFd ro rop of cim
at centre screw and a few drops of motor
oil to the shaft lubricator where fitted. or
just belou' cam, at 1,000 mile intervals. i
spot of grease or vaseline should be applied
to cam.
Miller Coil Ignition

This equipment was used on panther 280 cc. and 3b0 cc. 194g and
earlier models. Refer to page 329 for ignition timing details.
ELECTRICAL WIRING 477
Condensor-This is located in the breaker cap. Low tension wire

from coil enters this cap and is connected to the condensor. Contact is
made with the breaker points by flat section spring'. Bend this, if necessary,
to give more pressure to make a good contact. Make sure that the low
tension wire fits right into the trreaker cap and that no bare wire projects
as it is liable to "short" against timi4g cover. The condensor is grounded
where points are fitted in end of generator, by clip that secures'the
breaker cover, and on type secured with two screws to crankcase, there is
a ground contact in the form of a brass insert in bakelite cover under one
of these screws, that makes the ground on the timing cover. This applies
to 1938 and later Panthers. A good condensor ground contact is essential.
Section 8
ET.NCTB,ICAL WIB,ING
Lucas Wiring
Illustrations 200 and 201 show the wiring circuits and switch terminal
connections on the common types of Lucas electrical equipment used on
magneto ignition machines.
Luca,s Coil Ignition Switch Connections-The wiring circuits are
generally the same as on the magneto equipment illustrated except for
the ignition circuit. On this type switch terminals are identified with
letters, connections are as follows:-
' "H"-Ileadlight dipswitch centre cable,
"d"-dmmsfer and volt4ge regulator "A" terminal.
"T"-Tailight and speedo lig:ht.
"L"-Headlight pilot bulb.
"IG"-Ignition coil and warning light.
'r!"-Qgnsrator and regulator "D" terminals
also ignition warning light.
Miller Wiring
ll{iller ?3 E1 Coil Ignition System-(1933-1948 Panther 260-350 c.c.)-
Switch Terminal No. Connects to
1.-Coil low tension terminal.
2.-Battery negative and ground.
3.-Generator SH terminal (field coil).
4.-No cable.
5.-Headlight pilot bulb contact.
$.-dmm6fsr terminal with cable from generator { terminal.
7.-Tailight.
8.-Headlight main bulb dipswitch red cable.
Positive Battery cable eonnects to a.mmeter terminal opposite to
the generator f and switch terminal No. 6, ammeter connections.
Miller Wiring, Magneto Ignition-Switch connections are similar to
the coil ignition listed above, on types without voltage regulator equipment,
only difference is No. 1 switch terminal has no connection. On voltage
regulator equipped models connections are as follows:-
5.-Headlight pilot bulb.

6.-Ammeter.
7.-Taillight and speedo bulb.
8.-Headlight dipswitch centre cable.
Generator plug in cable connects to ammeter terminal connected to
No. 6, other ammeter terminal to Pos, battery.
Iil, 200
LUCAS IVIRrITG CIRCUITS

193?-1948 TAI{K PANEL }IODETIS
This wiring diagram is used on 1937-
1948 Triumph models and other ma-
MAIN BULB chines fitted with tank panel sEitch
(oguaf rlwer) and magneto ignition.
Note that terminal No.5 is used for
the tail, speedometer and panel light
connections on some models instead of
terminal 7,
:
r"i\r
SPEEDOiuEIE:R
UGHT I 'Y-rl
(*m lrrto) \i-,,'
lr
REAR VIEW OF HT€L.
.DIPPER PANEL }IOUNTED ON T''NK.
3UTCH
CUT.OUT A
DYftAMO tg9rgtact
CONNI!?IONS FOR
S'TOP LAMP A STOP
iai p iwlicil ii- srsP LAvP
SWITCH
REQUIRED, \
ELECTRICAL WIRING 479
IAIL LAMP
ItI. 201
LUOAS WIRING CIRCUITS 1937.5I HEADLIGHT SWITCII TYPD

This wiring diagram is used on mostly all 1937-51 models, with magneto ignition and switch
tn headlight. The same connections are used oD 1952 moclels, except for positiye instead of
negative battery ground anal consequent reversal of ammeter connections.
Sec.tion I
BURMAN GEARBOXES
Burman gearboxes are used on A.J.S.-lMatch1ess, Ariel, and panther
motorcycles. tr'or servicing details on gearboxes and clutches produced by
individual manufacturers for use on their own particular machines, refer
to Gearbox Servicing Chapter of the make concerned, e.g., Triumph Gearbox
Servicing, Chapter 15, Section 8, page 890.
Burman 4-Speed C.P. and B.A. Gearboxes, 1934-51

Burrna,n Gearbox Lubrication-On 1947 and earlier model gearboxes,
use lighL grease such as ssslr'6lsass-light or medium, or light chassis
g'rease. 174 lbs. is the correct amount on 4-speed types. When using this
lubricant, addition of 7+ pound at 2000-mile intervals is usually sufficient.
On 1948 and later model gearboxes with the rubber oil seal on the
main drive gear bearing, motor oil should be used of the same g'rade as
for engine. See page 126. Correct oil supply is one pint. No oi1 level plug
was fitted on the 1951 and earlier gearboxes, and oil supply can be
measured with a wire or rod through filler plug opening. Level should
be approximately up to bottom of kickstarter shaft.
Some early 1948 gearboxes did not have the drive side rubber oil
seal fitted and are best iubricated with a light ,grease as recommended
above for 7947 ar,d earlier types. Where considerable ioss of oil is
experienced on 1948 and later types a mixture of half and half light
grease and motor oil is recommended.
1952 models have a level piug located near the kickstar.ter shaft.
On oil lubricated gearboxes, oil level should be checked and topped up as
necessary every 1000 miIes.
Servicing Requirements-Normally, no replacements rr'ill likelr- l_ e
necessary in under 30,000 miles operation, if correct lubrication i:as i_,een
provided. On grease lubricated gearboxes, dismantling a'r at.ounC -Lhis
mileage and co.mpiete flushing out and refiliing rvith nerr- lubr.icani. is
recommended.
Kickstarter Gears-These are the only parts likelr' to require ear.l\-
replacement. The first tooth of this sector is originallr' fini.shecl oii to abou:
7/2 tooth height. If this or any of the first. few teeth are badil- ri-or.r-i. grin,j
them off completely and grind the first engaging tooth half off. if l.ore
than the first three or four teeth on sector are dantaged. it is adlisabie
to replace sector. When sector is being replaced, the conclition of the ratchei
pinion teeth should also be carefully examined. If considerable ,'jar-un-ring'
of starter has been experienced, teeth may be damaged. (Note-fiost
English manufacturers list the starter sector gear as "quadrani.,,)
I(ickstarter Ratchet Clutch Slipping-Slipping of the kickstar.ter
ratchet gears indicated by sudden loss of "grip" as distinct from a gradual
slip if occurring in transmission ciutch, is sometimes due to too heavv a
lubricant, particularly if this occurs in cold u'eather. The ratchet spring
is very light and has insufficient strength to operate properly with hear.y
lubricant in cold weather. If addition of some light oil does not cure
trouble, ratchet clutch and ratchet pinion teeth should be carefullr,
examined and replaced if necessary.
GEARBOXE,S 481
Causo of Ificksta,rter Gear Trouble-Most English models with magneto

ignition have a kiekstarter gearing that provides about two revolutions
of the motor frorn a complete stroke of the starter. This high gearing to
obtain a fast motor spin for starting, causes a very heavy load on the
starter gears.
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482 RECONDITIONING AND SERIVICING BRITISH MODELS
The heavy strain ordinarily imposed on the first one or two teeth
of, the'sector can be avoided by pulling in the clutch and pressing down
on starter just far enough to make engag:ement, then releasing clutch
and applying weight. Most 350 c.c. and laqger single models are equipped
with a compression release. Correct use of compression release simplifies
starting and reduces strain on starter gears, Starter should be pressed
down slowly until compression is felt. Release compression and move
down 2 or 3 inches further. Starter should then be allowed to return almost
to the top of stroke before throw'ing: weight on starter. In this way,
compression will not be encountered until towards the end of stroke.
Disrnantling Procedurs-B,u1ma,n C.P. and B.A. Gearboxes
1. Remove the kickstarter cover complete with kickstarter and foot-

change mechanism.
2. Dismantle the clutch. The ciutch hub is a straight spline fit onto
mainshaft, and after removal of mainshaft nut, can be withdrawn without
any puller.
3. Remove mainshaft kickstarter end nut; withdraw ratchet clutch,
ratchet pinion bushing and spring', Remove the four inner cover stud nuts,
Do not overlook the nut at bottom on the outside of inner g:ear cover on
some types.
4. Withdraw inner gear cover. Note there are 12 small rollers in the
g:roove on the camshaft between the camshaft pinion and shoulder. Remove
rollers so they do not get lost. A few models do not have these rollers,
using a closer fitting bushing only, to support camshaft.
5. Remove the screw plug and spring that operates the camshaft
locating pawl. The complete g'ear assembly with the camshaft selector
forks and layshaft can now be removed in one complete unit.
6. The driving gear can be left in the case, unless it is desired to
inspect the bearing or gear. To remove, the driving sprocket nut must be
undone, and it will tap out into the gearbox easily. With the rear chain
on and hrake applied, the drive gear can be held for sprocket nut removal.
7. When the main dismantling is completed, it is advisable to immedi-
ately wa'sh off all the gears, shafts and parts with varsol or kerosene. The
case should be flushed out likewise. The shifter forks should not be
removed from the camshafts unless replacement is necessary.
Eeplacements-.005" straight up and down clearance is the maximum
that should be allowed on any of the bushings or the mainshaft ball
bearings. Heat gearcase to at least boiling water temperature for removal
and refitting of bearings and bushings. Care should be taken when
installing the layshaft bushings that pressure is not applied near outside
edge of flange, as bushing flange's are easily broken.
MainshaJt Drive Ge.ar Bushings-After insertion, these bushings
should be bored or reamed to provide .001" clearance, or honed to provide
,0071/2" mainshaft clearance.
Gears and Shafts-It is very seldom that gear replacements are ever
necessary. Ifowever, in rare instances where a broken gear tooth may
have been experienced, or a "seizure" due to running with insufficient
lubricant, both the mainshaft and layshaft should be checked between
GEARBOXES 483
lathe centres to make sure they have not been "sprung." A shaft that is
not sprung'more than .005" is satisfactory for further service, but where
bend exceeds this amount, replacement is advisable.
12 RCTLTRS
IU. 203
BURMAN CAMSEAI]I ANI}

SIIIF'TEB T'ORI(
ASISEMBLY
Note the 12 camshaft rcIleTr
should be held in position
with stitf grease when ffi-
sembling. On some models a
plain bush is used without
rollers.
PECATILTS PAWL
PTC B IS MWT PIVOT
PEC C 15 FI{ID To cE,nRnoX CFSE
I a
c BCX j5 rRri
I
.hWffiA
5'rCfT',VlliCH
I ,1t.clBi][l liiq
,dfu ,qJ
r
CORRICI MISBINC OI'5TO'O&A}1D CA}{5HNTI ?]NIOil
HOV PA\VTTILTSTO
INCACE RATCHTT
Ilr. 204
BUfT.MAN I'OOT CIIANGD-1951 AND EARI,IEB C.P. AND B.A. TYPES

showing timlng the foot change rack gear with the camshaft pinion, also the spring box
and the ratchet pawl.
Foutchange Parts-After considerable use, the footchange pawl may

require replacing. Breakage of the die-cast spring box is occasionally
experienced as a result of severe use.
Reassembling Gearbox
fnstall the driving g'ear into the drive gear bearing. Assemble all the
layshaft gears onto layshaft and fit the two sliding mainshaft gears onto
their shifter forks; install this complete assembly into gearcase. Slip the
mainshaft through from the drive side. Next, fit on the mainshaft right
side gear. smear the crankshaft roller bearing track with thick grease
and insert the twelve rollers.
Note-Before fitting the inside gear cover, the camshaft gear locating
pawl must be fitted; also fit spring and screw plug from below' Coat
bolt up. Tighten nuts
!"*r "o-r", joint surface with jointing compound and inner
iecurely. It is advisable to centre punch lock the four nuts.
Fit the ratchet pinion spring, pinion and bush, ratchet clutch and nut'
Tighten nut and centre punch lock inside edge of nut to shaft.
Reassembling Footchango Parts-The footchange rack must be
installed with the timing mark registering with the marked tooth on
camshaft pinion as shown in Illustration 204. This illustration also shows
the assembly of the footchange spring box parts, and ratchet pawl. Note
that the hollow splined shaft that the footchange pedal is clamped on,
must be quite free on the selector rack shaft. A considerably over-tightened
pedal clamp bolt can compress this hollow shaft enough to cause gripping
6f irrrre, shaft, affecting footchange operation. AI1 these parts should be
liberally greased on assemblY.
Shifting Trouble After Assembly-This is most likely due to camshaft
pinion and srritter rack gear not being timed correctly, as described above.
Operation of the Positive Foo.t Gear Cha,nge Mechanism-The purpose
of the ratchet footchange mechanism is to enable one gear either higher or
lower to be engaged by movement of the pedal either way. Range of
movement allo#s for the changing of one gear only with each movement
of the pedal. ,
After considerable use, the footchange pawl may require replacing.

Breakage of the die-cast spring box is occasionally experienced as a result
of severe use.
Direct Operation of Gearshift-Direct operation of the gears can be
effected by seeure tightentu\g of the nut at the right side end of the
selector shaft that secures the gear indicator, and turning the shaft with
a wrench, This can be used to test the operation of the gears independent
of the footchange mechanism, and for emergency operation in the event
o,f failure of footchange mechanism.
Burman Lightweight Geartoxes

Panther 250 c.c.-350 c.c. S-Speetl "R" Typ€ and Panther 1948 antl
Earlier 4-Speeil "II" 454)e
Lubrication-Light grease. Castrolease light or medium or light chassis

grease are suitable. Motor oil can be added to heavier grease to give a
semi-liquid consistency; add approximately 7/+ pint every 2000 miles.
Dismantling-Removal of footchange cover gives access to right side
mainshaft nut. Removal of this, followed by kickstarter ratchet parts and
inner cover gives access to gearcase' When withdrawing inner gearcase,
note that the hollow ball that fits on the end of the inner shift lever,
attached to footchalge shaft, is not lost. Gears, shaft and gearcase should
be thoroughly washed with varsol or kerosene, removing all traces of old
g:rease. After parts are cleaned, examine for wear to determine replace-
ments required.
"-}
GEARBOXEIS 485
I
I
Replacements-Check layshafts in bushings. If clearance exceeds i
l
-005", replace bushings. Gearcase should be heated to at teast boiling I

,j
water temperature for removal and refitting. When installing new layshaft I
j
bushings, care should be taken not to apply pressure near outside edge of
flange, as this is easily broken off. Main drive gear bushings should be
replaced if allowing .005" or more mainshaft clearance. tr'orce out old
bushing's in vice, and press new ones in likewise. Drive gear bushings l
should be bored, reamed or honed after installing, to allow .007,,-.OOLyz,b I
shaft clearance. i
I
The drive gear ball bearing usually requires replacement when i

overhauling. rt is best checked by lifting straight up and down on the I
mainshaft with kickstarter end cover fitted. Replace if very noticeable l
up and down play is present. Bea.ring is secured with a circlip. l
i
In the event of a broken gear tooth having been experienced, the
shafts should be tested between lathe centres. If sprung more than .00b,,
out of true, replacement is advisable.
Jumping Out of Gear Trouble-ff trouble has been experienced with
jumping out of 2nd and 3rd g:ears, particularly on the 4-speed gearbox
fitted to 1948 and earlier Panther 350 c.c. and some other 250 c.c. models,
the trouble is likely due to worn layshaft dogs and worn layshaft sliding
gear dogs. These parts should be carefully examined and replaced if dogi
are very noticeably worn. Attempting to build up dqgs with welding is not
recommended.
Reassembling-Before commencing assembly, examine the condition
of the footchange shaft. rf there is notice.able wear on the ratchet teeth,
with which the ratchet pawl eng:ages, replacement is recommended. When
replacing the shaft, it is important that the cap screw securing the inner
lever be well tightened. Note that the small footchange ratchet spring is
fitted between the ratchet and right side of the gearcase, and that the
peg in g'earcover separates the spring ends. It is wise to replace this
spring whenever gearbox is dismaniled.
The internal gear assembly is simpte and stralghtforward. Refer to
rlt. 205 for details of parts layout. Note that the square block that fits
on the gear selector lever and eng.ages with the groove in sliding gear,
is fitted. This is best retained with stiff grease. Likewise, note t[at the
hollow batl fitted on the end of the shifter shaft inner lever is secured
in place with a thick grease, and eng:ag.es with the of the shifting
lever as g'ear cover is positioned.
wind up the kickstarter spring before fitting the mainshaft ratchet
pinion. Tighten up the sprocket flnal drive nut, mainshaft clutch hub nut
and mainshaft kickstarter nut, after the rear chain has been fitted. and
rear brake applied. centre punch the sprocket nut into the eplines to lock,
ard centre punch the mainshaft cluteh hub and kickstartef nuts against
the shaft threads to lock.
stiffness After Tightening starter Mainshaff Nut-rn some instances,
after the kickstarter mainshaft nut is fully tightened, the slight clearance
between the mainshaft right side gear and mainshaft shoutder, will be
completely taken up, causing stiffness and difficult gear changing.. To
overcome this difficulty, remove kickstarter gears, and grind a small
amount off the end of ratchet pinion bush. 1/e+" will usually be sufficient.
The cause of this difficulty is that the nut tightens up against a rather
small shoulder on the mainshaft, and this sometimes penelrates into the
nut and part of the nut "swells" past the shoulder against the ratchet
clutch and presses against ratchet pinion bush, taking up the small amount
of endplay briginally provided. Do not just slacken off the nut to overcome
this; either grinO oif the nut surface or grind off the ratchet pinion bush.
Be sure to centre punch the nut ag'ainst the shaft to positively lock it.
Burman Lightweight Foot Goar Change-"B" and "II" I5ryes

'Thistypeoffootchangeisrathersensitive,particularlyolthe4-speed
type, and proper operation is targely dependent on the condition of the
ratchet pawl spring.
There are two springs in this footchange unit; the large spring fits
in the cover and centralizes the footchange pedal; the smaJl spring fits
on the shifter shaft between the ratchet and the inner gearcase cover.
To remove this spring it is necessary to remove the inner gearcase and the
inner shift lever, permitting withdrawing of the shifter shaft'
Different Footcha,ngo Springs-On 3-speed units a 3-coil type spring
is used for both the footchange pedal and the ratchet. on the 4-speed
type, 2-coil springs are used. It is essential that the corect springs be
fitted.
Fitting New Springs-Note these are fitted with the two ends
separated by their stop pqgs. when installed, the ends must be parallel and
ndt crossed-over as they tend to do from na.tural tension. When fitting the
hollow footchange pedal shaft with ratchet pawl, note that pawl peg' ens'ages
between the pawl sPring ends.
Spring Stop Pegs-The ratchet pawl spring stop peg fitted in the
g"r* cov"i and the ratchet pawl peg, must be a tight fit.
rn. 205
BUR.IIAN LIGHTTVEIGHT "H'' ITYPE 4-SPEED GEAR, ASSE}TBLY
Details of intemal assembly of the lightlveight 4-speed gearbox The as fitted to 1948 and earlier
if-O c.c. pantfrer and some other 350 c.c. machines are sho$'n. 3-speed lightweiaht typo
;,"1i',-'giaiOoi is of similar layout. Servicing details &re covered on pages 484-488.
i
GEARBOXES 487
Shifting Trouble-When there is difficulty in getting either low or

trig'h, remove the footchange cover, refit the pedal and operate the
change pedal while observing the action of the ratchet pawl against the
ratchet. It will probably be found that the trouble is in the ratchet pawl
not being "tilted" soon enough, and just slipping over the ratchet tooth'
To make ratchet pawl tiit sooner, the simplest procedure is to bend the
end of the ratchet pawl spring slightty; bending 1/a+" vmll usually be
sufficient to cause the ratchet pawl to eng:ag'e properly with the ratchet.
As an alternative, the spring stop peg in the case or the peg located in
the ratchet pawl, can be bent slightly. Care should be taken to only bend
a slight amount at a time and check the results.
Foo.tchange Range of Movement-Light 4-Speed Type "trI"-6 trouble
common to this type is insufficient range of movement being allowed by
the stops in the footchang:e cover. This trouble is indicated by difficulty
in engaging either low or high gear when footchange cover is assembled;
the trouble not being present when the cover is removed, allowilg greater
range of pedal movement.
Possible causes of this trouble are cap screw that secures inner
lever to shifter not being sufficiently tight, and back lash developing,
or bent inner lever. If such are not found to be the trouble, the footchange
quadrant arm (part o,f hollow footchange pedal shaft), should be ground
down where it contacts the stops inside the gearbox footchaqge cover, to
give a greater range of foot pedal movement. It is not likely that more
than lAe" will be required to be ground off.
Footchange Replacements-To recondition footchange mechanism, the
following replacements should be fitted; ratchet pawl, ratchet, quadrant,
ratchet and pedal springs.
When replacing ratchet shaft, be sure to securely tighten cap screw
that secures inner lever.
Do Not Overtighten Footchange Pedal Clarnp Bolt-The footchange
pedal hollow shaft (quadra"nt) must be quite free on the ratchet shaft for
the ratchet mechanism to function properly. The hollow pedal shaft may be
pinched to the ratchet shaft if pedal bolt is over-tightened.
I Footcha,nge Lubrica,tion-When reassembling footchange, grease all
parts liberally.
Operating the Foot Shift-Avoiding use of excessive force will prolong'
life and reduce trouble on this unit. Engagement of low g'ear is made
easier if machine is rolled ahead slightly while pedal is depressed with
light pressure.
Ifow to Make Ternporary Repair if the Ra.tchet Mechanism Fails-The
I gearshift can be operated independent of the footchange meehanism by
tightening the nut on the end of the footchange ratchet shaft that holds on
i the change pedal indicator very tight. A wrench carr then be used, on this
nut to shift gears. An open end wrench can be fitted to this nut and then
I
taped to the footchange pedal. This may only allow the seiection of two
gears, however, due to the limited range of movement allowed between
the footcha4ge quadrant stops, but this may be sufficient for emergency
purposes. As an alternative, a wrench fitting this nut can be carried and
applied to nut whenever gearchange is required.
If it should be necessary to operate the machine for some period
of time before ratchet mechanism repairs can be effected, conversion to
hand shift can be effected by making a hand change lever from a length
of light strap iron with a hexagon hole cut so that it is a tight fit on the
shifter shaft end nut. This can be tapped on and secured with spot welding.
This will enable the full range of gears to be obtained, providing in effect
a "gateless" hand change. With this arrangement it will, of course, be
necessary to feel for intermediate gears, although no difficulty will be
encountered in locating low or high gears.
.Another
method is to grind off the end of the hollow footchange
quadrant that fits between the range of movement stops in the footchange
cover to allow futl movement, drill a hole through the footchange inner and
outer shafts, locking these together with a pin. Footchange pedal can then
be refitted and gearshift operated by feel without ratchet mechanism.
This treatment will spoil the ratchet shaft and quadrant for further use
and is only recommended where it is intended to replace these parts at
a future date.
Section 10
CLUTCHES
Clutch Adjustrnents-Refer to Chapter 4 "Maintenance," pages
747-'L48.
Construction-Cork inserted plates are most commonly used, fitted
alternately between steel plates. Cork ciutches can be operated either
dry or running in S.A.E. No. 10 oil, Fabric inserted plates are used on
some types. These give best results operated dry, and it should be noted
that stronger springs are required if a change is made to this tlpe of
plate on a t1'pe originally using cork inserts.
Clutch Drag and Grintling Going Into Low Gear-The usual cause on
oil bath types is operating with too heavy an oil in chaincase, or
excessively high oil level. Other causes are excessive slack in control,
and uneven clutch pressure adjustment. If the first two items are not
the trouble, remove the chaincase cover, and observe the "throw-off" of
the clutch spring outer pressure plate, when clutch is disengaged. If it
comes off unevenly, tighten the spring slightly where piate throws off
the most, until an even throw-off is obtained.
To free clutch from oil drag, kick starter down with clutch disengaged,
once or twice before'starting' up.
Dismantling-Unwind the clutch spring nuts; spring:s, spring cups
and plates can then be withdrawn. This is all the dismantling necessary for
clutch plate servicing'. To inspect the bearing on which the cluteh sprocket
runs, when clutch is disengaged, mainshaft clutch hub nut must be
removed, followed by hub. Hub is just a spline fit on mainshaft, and
can be removed easily without puller. See Ill. 490 for details of clutch
construction.
Clutch Plate Replacements-On all Burman clutches and a number
of other types, standard clutch eork thickness is 3/4". When worn down to
1/8" or to where steel plates are co,ming in contact with inserted plate
steel, replacement should be made. It is recommended that new factory-
ground inserted plates be installed where available.
Steel Plates-If steel plates are rough as a result of metal contact
due to running w'ith burned out corks, they should be rubbed smooth with
GEARBOXES 489
emery cloth or new corks may be rapidly worn. Where there has been
noticeable clutch drag and clutch has been overheated, steel plates ma51
be warped. They should be checked on a flat surface and replaced if
warped as much as 742".
Recorking Clutch Plates-New cork inserts can be fitted to plates.
Note-The correct inserts are made slightly larger than the slots in plates,
to ensure a tight fit. When fitting inserts it is important to alternate,
fitting every other insert on one side, then turning plate over and filling
in the remaining spaces for the inserts from the other side. This will
eliminate any tendency for the clutch corks to shift all over to one side
in service.
After inserting, corks should be gr:ound to Vta" width. This can be
done on a surface grinder, in a lathe equipped with a tool post g'rinder or
a very satisfactory job can be done by tacking a sheet of sandpaper or
emery cloth to bench top and rubbing down by hand.
Making Corks-If cork inserts are to be made up, note that they
should be cut aboat 7,42" wider and %0" longer than the plate insert
openings to ensure a snug fit.7/zz" ot y4" cork material should be used to
allow for finishing down to the required %0" width. Exceptions to the
standard %e" finished width of clutch cork inserts, are the cork inserts
on B.S.A. 250 cc. model clutch sprockets which are %0"; Villiers clutch
sprocket 9b", and Villiers clutch plates %2".
l,:it'::.;WT:
iW:,,',,,.: l
I
:l
ru. 206
GRINDING CLUTCH COR,KS AFTER' INSERTION

A lathe equipped with a toolpost grinder enables accurate surfacing of clutch corks after
lnseruon. . O_.n a! Ariel, Burman- and Triumph type ctutches corf<s- strouia - te gio"na to
exactly y76" width. rf grinding facilities are not available, corks can be leveilei otr ano
taken- down to width by rubbing over a sheet of emery i:totn or liJr.ed to a
level bench top. "a"apaper
Clutch Rods-These are of la" diameter carbon steel on most

gearboxes. Exceptions are the Triumph, using a 1,Azt' diarneter rod and Iight
weight Burman and Villiers gearboxes, using ?10" diameter.
If old rod is too short, it can be built up with carbon steel, ground
round and to correct length, and hardened by heating red and quenching.
Hardened rod end is essential to avoid rdpid wear and loss of clutch control
adjustment.
THE BUR,IIAN CLUTCH ASSEITBLY DISIIANTLEI)

The standard Burman clutch assembly ls illustrated. Only one inserted and plain clutch
plate ls shown. The number of plates vari€s on different types, from 2 to 5 inserted plates,
and 3 to 6 steel plates. The Ariet 1936 and later type Burman clutch located outside the
chaincase, differs in that a needle type clutch sprocket bearing with retaining cage is used
anal sptocket does not incorporate the shock absorber collars illustrated. Design is ottrerwise
the same. It is most important to thoroughly tighten the clutch hub nut when reassemblinE:.
Trouble with clutch hub mainshaft splines shearing off, is invariably due to insufficient
mainshaft nut tightening
Order of Assembly of Burman Clutch
1. Clutch roller race larger washer onto mainshaft.

2. Clutch roller race.
3. Smear race with stiff grease to hold rollers, and fit rollers onto race.
4. Clutch sprocket.
5. Clutch Roller Race Outer Washer.
6. Clutch hub.
7. Clutch hub flat washer and lockwasher.
8. Clutch hub nut. Tighten with good fitting socket. Apply a few
hammer blows to wrench handle, holding by e4gaging high gear and
applying rear brake. F ailure to tighten thi's nut adequately is usual cause
of clutch hub splines shearing off. Centre punch lock edge of nut to
shaft threads.
9. Clutch plates-E irst install steel, then alternate inserted and steel
plates.
10. Grease clutch pushrod before inserting in the mainshaft.
11. Fit clutch spring pressure plate, spring cups, springs and nuts.
Tighten until spring nuts are approximately ',4r" past the end of studs.
Try releasing clutch and note how the spring plate throws off. Adjust
springs individually by tightening or slackening slightly until an even
throw-off is obtained. Note-If clutch slip occurs with slack in control,
try increasing clutch spring pressure. If clutch springs have been tightened
CLUTCHES 49L
so much that it is impossible to pull clutch lever fully into handlebar,

slacken sufficiently to allow full range of handlebar lever movement, to
avoid strain on clutch cable.
12. Adjust clutch pus.hrod serew in outside clutch.plate centre to
provide 1/ta" free cable slack. (Note-on some models this adjuster screw
is not provided, and clutch pushrod adjustment is effected at the operating
lever end at right side of gearbox. See I1l. 38 and 39, page 142.)
Cork or Fa,bric Inserts-The advantage of cork is its extremely high
co-efficient of friction; considerable load can be carried without slip
with a moderate spring pressure. This provides a very light clutch lever
action and smooth operation. It is particularly suitable for oil bath
operation as very little loss of friction results from running in oil.
Disadvantages are that cork wiII not stand any continuous slipping
without burning out, although this danger is slightly reduced when
operating in oil.
tr'abric inserts are much more durable than cork, and can stand a
considerable amount of slipping without burning out. Disadvantages are
that they require the use of stronger springs resulting in heavier clutch
lever operation. On some types they cannot, be operated in oil as friction
is reduced to the extent that clutch slipping oceurs. Eabric inserts are
particularly recommended for heavy service operations on dry type clutches.
Ill. 208
I AD'USTING BUBIIAN CLUTCE CONTR'OL SII\CK

On light weight type Burman gearboxes especially, where clutch pushrod adjustment is not
provided at operating lever on right side, adjustment is located in centre of clutch outer
pressure plate as shown. lfo adjust, slacken Iocknut and turn screw in to reduce slack, or
out to give more slack. Retighten locknut securely. A minimum of 1A6" cable slack should be
maintained in the control.
Section 11
CIIAINS AND SPROCKETS

Chain Lubrication and Adjustments-Refer to page 129 for chain
lubrication details, and pages 144-L47 for chain adjustments. For details
of chain adjustment procedure on individual makes, reference should
be made to the chain section of the chapter covering the make concerned.
When is Chain Replacement Necessar5r?-When wear exceeds lS"-%.a"
stretch per foot, chain is due for replacement. A simple method of
checking eondition of rear ehain without removing, is to grasp chain
midway on rear sprocket and observe how far it can be lifted off sprocket.
If chain ean be lifted away from sprocket so that there is a space o1 r/*" or
more between chain and bottom of sprocket teeth, chain is due for
replacement. This is the quiekest and a very satisfactory method of
determining chain condition. If chain is removed, condition can be more
aecurately checked after washing in varsol or kerosene by laying out
flat on bench, taking hold of both ends, and noting the variation in length
between pushing and pulling on ends of chain, On a rear chain approxi-
mately 5 ft. loqg, if variation exceeds 3/+", replacement should be made.
Although it is possible to continue running with chains worn il
excess of the figures quoted, to do so is false economy as badly worn
chains cause rapid wear on sprockets. The iife of the average rear chain
ranges from 8-15,000 miles, depending on operating conditions, and
maintenance provided, Oil bath type front chains will usually give
20-40,000 miles service if oil level has been maintained.
Tho Chain Con-Link and Spring Clip-The con-link spring clip should
be fitted with the round end in the direction of rotation. To remove the
Renoid type clip, use a blunt nosed pair of pliers. Grip one nose on the open
end of clip and the other on the chain link pin, forcing the clip back off one
pin when it can be easily slid off the other. (See Il1. 41, page 147.)
Refit elip by reversing procedure, gripping one plier nose on round
end of clip and other nose on link pin.
Removing and Refitting Rear Chain-Due to the inaccessibility of
the final drive gearbox sprocket on some t)?es, it is rather difficult to
replace the rear chain. This difficulty is easily overcome if a length of old
chain is at hand before removing chain. When the chain connecting link
has been removed, join the old chain by slipping through the con-Iink.
When chain is withdrawn, the old chain is drawn into place and left over
the rear sprocket and gearbox sprockets. A gear should be eng.ag.ed so
that chain does not roll off gearbox sprocket.
After the rear chain has been cleaned and lubrieated, connect it up
to the old chain with the con-link and pull the old chain through. This will
draw the chain baek into position on g:earbox sprocket. OId chain should be
stowed away for future use on this job. This procedure will be found to save
considerable time.
iloin the Chain on the Sprocket-The simplest way to join chain is
to bring the ends together about midway on the rear sprocket, pressing
these into sprocket, then the con-link can usually be slipped through
without difficulty. This method will provide easy joining of chain unless
CHAINS AND SPROCKETS 493
chain and sprocket have become loaded with dirt or unless chain was too
tight before remova,l. In such cases, cleaning or slackening adjustment will
overcome difficulty.
Cha,in Atljustments-Minimum up and down play measured midway
between 'sprockets in the tightest spot of chain should be provided as
foilows:
Rear Chains ..........3/4't slack
I F,ront Chains ................... .....s4,,-1/2,tslack
Generator and Magneto Chains ................%.a"-!+" slack
Plunger Type Sprtng Fra.rn+-Chain Adjustment-Chain tension varies
considerably with loading. Chain is tightest with wheel in lowest, unloaded
position, and slackest under load. Adjusting to 3/+" ,slack is recommended
without rider seated but with rear wheel on ground. On machines equipped
with centre stand, if adjusting with wheel clear of I'round, adjust to %"
slack only.
Avoirl Atljusting Chain Too Tight-Always revolve chain and check
to make sure that the required amount of slack is present in the tightest
part of the run. Operating with chains excessively tight places a heavy
load on chains, sprockets and bearing's.
[r, 209
REMOVINGI A CEAIN LINX,

The Renold-Coventry chain tool lllustrated ls laleal for
chain repairing. It wiU qulckly extract rtvetg ln all
sizes of motorcycle chairs ud is a worthwhile plece of
equipment either for the sbop or priyate rider.
Chain Repairs and Spares-A spare connecting link and spring clip
for in the tool box. Whenever rear
each size of chain used should be carried
chain is adjusted it is wise to inspect the connecting link. On some types,
notably Triumph, ends of connecting link may rub against primary
chaincase and if connecti4g link is inserted with ctip on the inside, the
trouble may occur rubbing against gearbox casting. When evidence of the
connecting link rubbirg on such parts is noted, replacement should be made
as ends of, link may wear off, allowing spring clip to come off and chain
to break in service. Where rubbing of connecting link occurs, trouble can
usually be located by careful examination, and may be overcome by slight
filing on back of inner chaincase. Note, on spring frame models,
especially, rear chain guard should be carefully examined, and centred
over chain so that chain does not contact edge of guard at top range of
wheel movement.
"Cranked." Link-A "cranked" chain link is required when chain needs
to be an odd number o,f links.
Sizes of Chain
Chain sizes are classified by pitch and width measurements; e.9.,

indicates pitch is s1*" and width 7a".
Pitch-This is the distance between link pin centres. Three pitch
sizes common in current motorcycle use are: 3/e",1/2" ar:d 5/a".
Width-This is the approximate width of roller, and distance between
the insides of the block link side plates. The spro,cket width measures
slightly less than the specified ehain width, due to the runniqg side
elearance provided. Widths used are lb", Vez", Ttt", r1"r", 6Aa" ar.d Ye".
Chain Lengths-These are usually listed by the number of pitches;
the total number of combined inside and outside links or rollers can be
counted.
Sprockets
Sprocket Replacements-Sprocket mileages vary a gteat deal on
different machines. On most machines the first sprocket to wear out is
the gearbox rear drive sprocket, th.e Vz"xVta" type being least durable.
Replacements of this type are usually necessary at 8-10,000-mile intervals.
On s/s"x/e" sizes 15-20,000 miles can usually be obtained. Running with
worn out chains and chains badly out of adjustment, rapidly accelerates
sprocket wear. With the possibie exception of the gearbox rear drive
sprockets, sprockets should outlast two or three sets of chains. Rear wheel
sprocket replacements are generally necessary at 15-30,000 miles. tr'ront
drive sprockets, where chain runs in oil bath, are very durable, and
seldom require replacement.
B,'emoving Sprockets
Iypes of Sproeket Attachment

(a) Rivetted-Rear wheel sprocket rivetted to hub or brake drum.
(b) Bolted-Rear wheel sprocket bolted to hub or brake drum.
(c) Splined-Rear wheel and gearbox final drive sprockets straight
spiine fit.
(d) Ptain taper and taper with keyway-most engine, magneto and
generator sproekets use this fitting, also Harley 45 gearbox rear
drive sprocket.
(e) Straight shaft with key'vray-Ariel Four and Ariel Twin camshafts
and camshaft drive sprockets. Villiers unit and power bike
engine sprockets.
The only type of sprocket that often is difficult to remove is type
(d), mounted on plain taper, or taperwith key. On some types such as the
Ariel magneto, a thread is cut in the sprocket hub and a special threaded
sprocket puller is provided with the tool kit. With such a tool, this type
is easily removed. Where no special tool is provided, taper fitted sprockets
CHAINS AND SPROCKETS 495
are best removed with a 3-leg type sprocket puller. lf a 3-1eg puller is
not available or if space does not permit its use, a 2-leg type can be used.
Care should be taken that the jaws do not apply the load towards the end
of teeth or a tooth may be broken of,f.
It is good policy to fit a spacer, such as a small nut between the
puller screw point and end of shaft to avoid damag'e to the shaft eentre
hole. After a fair amount of pressure is applied to the puller screw, strike
end of screw a sharp blow with hammer and sprocket will usually free
from taper immediately. If not, apply slightly more pressure and repeat.
In stubborn cases try heating the sprocket hub when the puller pressure
is on. When no puller is available, give sprocket a sharp rap with hammer
a:rd drift, locating drift near outer edge of sprocket. This will sometimes
free from taper. Another method is to drive a wedge behind sprocket and
hit end of shaft a sharp rap with hammer and drift.
Refitting Sprockets
Rivot-on Type-Be sure rivets are correct diameter and cut to length
so that when tapped right in, not more thans/s2" projects for rivetting over.
Mount a substantial punch or steel bar in the vice to set the rivet head
on when rivetting with ball peen hammer. Tap the sprocket well down on
drum flange before starting, and during rivetting to make sure sprocket
contacts drum flange.
Bolt-on T51e-No special attention is required, but be sure to tighten
the botts and locknuts securely, Centre punch locking nuts to bolts will
ensure against loosenirlg. Note that Enfield type Cush-Elub sprocket bolts
should be fitted with self-locking nuts or double nuts locked together.
Spline Tlp+These fit without difficulty but this type has a
tendency to ioosen the nut, especially if the splines are not a tight fit.
The securing nut should be hamrnered tight. High gear should be engaged
and the brake applied to hold when tightening. After nut is thoroughly
tightdned, Iock it by punching the nut into one or two of the splines.
X'ollowing this procedure will eliminate possibility of, trouble with nut
troosening.
Plain Taper-Be sure sprocket and shaft taper surfaces are clean
and dry, and apply a few sharp hammer blows to wrench to securely
tighten. ff a tab type lockwasher is not used, it is a g'ood policy to lock
the nut by centre punching edge of nut to shaft threads.
Taper With I(ey-Same as above. Make sure key fits snugly in shaft
keyway, and that amount of key projecting from shaft is not quite as
I much as the depth of the key slot in sprocket, so sprocket can seat right
,down on taper.
Sprockets and Gear Ratios

When replacing sprockets, the average rider is well advised to
replace with sprockets of the original number of teeth to give standard
,gearing. On Ariel, Triumph, Norton, Matchless and some other makes,
g'earing can be changed by fitting a different size of engine sprocket,
these being made with a varying number of teeth. On B.S.A. T\rins
gearing is altered by changing the rear wheel sprocket. It should be noted

that on gearbox diiven speedometers, a change in the number of rear
drive or rear wheel sprocket teeth will alter the speedorneter gearing, and
necessitate fitting speedometer geared accordingly.
On 350 ce. and smaller models used mainly for double riding', an
engine sprocket with one less tooth than standard will very often
improve the top gear performance. On 500 c.c. and larg'er machines, oper-
ated with a very light load and under favourable conditions, one tooth more
on the engine sprocket may be used. High gearing improves gas milea,ge
slightly on a light load, and often tends to reduce vibration on some models.
Ariel 1000 c.c. F'our models, which have generally been turned out
with 24-tooth engine sprockets giving a 4,5:L ratio top gear, ca,rr generally
be geared higher than standard to advantage for solo service. 25 ot
26-tooth engine sprockets g"iving ratios of 4.3 and 4.1:1 respectively, are
recommended.
Wind Resistance and Gearing-A motorcycle and rider present a
very poor aero-dynamic shape. "Streamline" is lacking, and compared with
the modern car, the wind resistance factor rises proportionately in a
much steeper curve than the power curve. Although many motorcycles
appear to be capable of pulling a much higher gear, due to the considerable
reserve of power a.vailable at moderate speeds in top gear, it is the lack
of streamline and consequent wind resistance at high speeds that makes
higher g:earing impracticable.
To obtain the "rated" top speed from most standard machines, it is
necessary to crouch down over the tank to reduce wind resistance. A
difference of 10 m.p.h. in maximum speed between sitting straight up and
lyi4g down on the tank is not uncommon. It is the wind resistance that
limits maximum speed and the extra power required to overcome wind
resistance when travelling very fast, accounts for the increased g'as
consumption that goes with high speeds.
Gear Rato Formula-Top gear ratio can be determined by counting
the motor revolutions for one revolution of the rear wheel, or by sprocket
tooth calculation. Count the number of teeth on all four sprockets, multiply
the number of teeth on clutch sprocket by the number of teeth on the
rear wheel sprocket, and divide this product by the product of the engine
drive sprocket and gearbox drive sprocket teeth multiplied,
Example:
C1utch Rear Wheel
Sprocket Sproeket
59 47
-X-4.74:L Top Gear Ratio
30 a7
Engine Gearbox
Sprocket Sprocket
F'RAMES AND X.ORKS 497
Section 12
FB,AMES AND FORKS

tr'rames-Except for accident damage, frame repairs are seldom
required in normal service. Where frames are of bolted up construction,
the securing nuts should be checked for tightness about every 5000 miles.
When securely tightened, there is seldom any loosening up. On spring
frame types, regular g'rease gun lubdcatioh i's all the attention usually
needed, although after 20-30,000 miles have been covered, dismantling for
inspection of springs, bushings, and adjustment of pivot spindle endplay,
may be required.
['r&me fube Repair-A fractured frame tube such as the main front
down tube from steering head, is best repaired by inserting a short length
of smaller diameter tubing of just sufficient size to fit snugly in the
broken tube, spanning the break for two or three inches. Broken ends of
tubing should be brought right together, and the joint brazed. Before
brazing, a check should be made to ensure that frame is in correct
alignment.
Do not weld tube frames; brazo them. With rare exceptions, the
tubing used in motorcycle frames is weakened by welding. It is recom-
mended that brazing be used for any repairing', as the heat required
will not seriously affect the strength of the tubes.
I''rame Straightening-When frame etraightening is necessary as a
result of an accident, the average rider is well advised to have this job
done at a shop equipped for, and experienced in this work. Most tube
straightening is best done cold.
Frame Alignment-There are various methods of checking frame
alignment. Most factories use a large surface table with various blocks
and gauges. For the average rider or shop, one of, the best methods is to
use a steel bar that just fits through steering head; a straight edge board
5 or 6 feet long can be placed up against the lower part of the front
down tube and seat post tubes, and a check made on either side. IJ
steering head is out of alignment it will be readily seen. ft should be
noted that some rear forks are built out wider oh the chain side to give
clearance for the drive.
In minor aceidentjs involving fork damqge, it is seldom that frame
is bent, however, where forks have been badly damaged, the steering
head alignment should always be checked as described above.
Fra,mo Steering Ilead Alignment-A simple method of bringing
steering head into alignment is to anchor the frame in press, bloeking up
the front down tube and tank tube about one foot from steering head,
using wooden blocks to prevent damag:e to tubing. A long.lever bar can
be placed through steering head and alignment corrected.
Plunger Forks
Servicing of the various types of plu4ger forks is dealt with in the
last section of each chapter dealing with individual makes-Chapters 5-15.
Reference should be made to these sections for required data.
Main Tube StraiShtening-Main fork tubes that are not bent more
tinan %s" off centre, in the entire length can usually be straightened
satisfactorily in a press. IJse a curved support block at each end and
apply pressirre wiUi a similar block to avoid flattening tubes' Wood
blocks are suitable. If bend exceeds 7r0", replacement of tubes is recom-
mended as fracture may develop after straightening. Due to the springy
nature of these tubes, it is necessary to apply pressure considerably beyond
that required to straighten tube, as tube will spring back considerably
after pressure is released. It is, however, better to make a number of
attempts, rather than apply too much pressure and put an opposite bend
in tube.
Fork Stem a,nd Lower Lug-After main tubes are straightened, they
should be clamped in the lower lug, and checked for being parallel. Stem
and lug replacement is recommended in preference to straightening, but
if straightening is to be attempted note that for checking alignment rods
should be laid across fork main tubes at top and bottom ends, and these
should be parallel. F inal check should be made with the top lug fitted'
Bottom ends of tubes should measure an equal distance from steering stem
centre line. A rod eentred in steering stem is useful for this check.
Steering Head Cups and Cones-These should be examined when forks
are removed. If noticeably pitted, replacement is advisable. "Pitting" is
most likely to'oecur on the lower eups and cones. Any chipped balls shouid,
of course, be replaced. Check new balls with a calliper to make sure they
are the same size as originally fitted. Do not fit too many. It is better to
fit one ball too few if in doubt. There should be some space between the
balls, and if crowded by squeezing in an extra ball, steering may be badly
affected.
Frame cups are easily driven out with a length of rod.
Assemtrling Steering Head Bearings-Tighten the adjusting nut
up fully using not more than 10-15 ft. Ibs. torque, then slaqken about 1,40 of
a turn. Tighten the pinch bolt securely and tighten locknut down on
adjusting nut.
Steering head bearing',s should be checked and adjusted if necessary
at 5-10,000-mile periods. To check adjustment, a block can be placed under
motor to lift the wheel clear of the ground, and steering damper slacked off.
F'ork legs should be grasped and moved back and forth while noting for
play at the steering head. Fork movement should be quite free after
adjustment. If not, slacken adiustment slighUy more. Be sure that pinch
bolts and locknuts are securely tightened.
On plunger type forks, wear in fork leg slider bushings should not be
mistaken for steering head bearing clearance. Another method of checking'
the head bearings is to apply front brake, and rn'ork handlebars backwards
and forwards, placing s, finger between top of frame steering'head, and
steering stem top race dust cover. If there is noticeable movement between
these two parts, need for bearing adjustment is indicated.
Plunger T5rpo Fork Lubrication and Maintenance-Reference should
be made to servicing data on individual makes in Chapters 5-15' Under
avera{ge conditions, an oil change every 5000 miles, or seasonally where
there is substantial change in temperature, is all the maintenance required.
tr'ork leg bushing replacement may be required at 15-20,000-mile intervals,
depending on operating conditions.
FRAMES AND X'ORKS 499
Girrler Type Forks

Checking Alignment-Best method of checking alignment is with
steel rods located through the two spindle holes and axle slots. See Il1. 210.
This will revea.l any twist in forks. To check for forks being bent to
one sicle at bottom end, place a carpenter's square in contact with the
steel rod through lower spindle hole, and note measurement from square
to the fork axle lug on either side. Bend if necessary to provide alignment,
'and maintain eorrect spacing between lugs to match width of hub'
;.lj;r|.i
{-
I
:]:
CHECI(ING FORI( ALIGNMENT MTff STEEL RODS

The use of 3 steel xods, fitted through the top and bottom fork link spindle holes md the
wheel spindle slots, prove a useful tid in checking fork girder a.lignment; rods shoultl be
parallel.
Fork Spindlo Entlplay Atljustment-This adjustment is usually bene-

ficial at 5000-mi1e periods, or sooner if excessive endplay has developed.
There are three tlpes of, spindles commonly used on girder forks fitted to
7947 and earlier models, as below:
(a) The bolt type fork link adjustment. Spindle bolts being used that
thread into one link and are a free fit in the other link.
(b) The shouldered spindle type. One end of spindle is threaded into
fork link, the other shouldered end is a free fit in link; at which
link tightens up against should,er.
(c) Straight spindle tlpe with right and lefthand thread, with fork
Iinks threaded at both ends.
"A" Bolt fgre Fork Spindtre Adjustment-Slacken locknut and
tighten spindle bolt fully, then slacken bolt about Y+ fiill turn; retighten
locknut. Check to make sure that fork movement is still free.
"8" Shouldered Spintlle T5pe Link Atljustment-Note-Some types
have the spindle shoulder on the "squared" end and some on the opposite
end. Ariel spindles have the shoulder on the plain end, and Triumph
spindles have the spindles shoulder on the "squared" end. To adjust,
proceed as follows:
Ariel tlXle-Slacken both spindle nuts; to take up endplay, screw the
squared end of spindle out (anti-clockwise); to give more play, turn the
squared end in (clockwise). Move about Y+ turn at a time and tighten
locknuts and check. Norton and Panther uee this adjustment also.
Iriurnph lype-Slaeken both spindle nuts; to take up endplay, turn

squared end in (clockwise); to give more endplay, turn the squared end out
(anti-clockwise). Adjust squared end about la tlurn at a time, then tighten
both spindle nuts and check. The large knurled washers that fit between
the link and spindle bearings, should be free to turn but with no per-
ceptible side p1ay.
"C" Royal Enfieltl Fork Spindle Adjustment-E ork spindles and links
have righthand threads at one end, and lefthand threads at other end.
These qre plain spindles without shoulders. To adjust, slacken locknuts;
turning squared end of spindle one way will draw links together, and
the other way, will separate, Turn spindle to draw links right together;
then back off Y+ turn and tighten locknuts.
Section 18
WHEELS-HUB BEARINGS_BRAKES
Wheel B,ims and Spokes
The wheels seldom require attention on the averag'e model and
true running will likely be maintained for a number of years without any
spoke adjustments, excepting exceptionally severe use or accident.
When reconditioni4g, it is good policy to check wheels for truth.
If any of the spokes are unduly loose or broken, or in instances where
out of true either sideways or radially exceeds 14a", attention should be
given.
The average rider not experienced in this work, is well advised to
have any wheel truing'done at a cycle shop or by a mechanic experienced
in this work.
VYheel Rims-A rim that has been very severely dented should be
discarded and a new duplicate rim re-spoked to the hub. A rim that just
has a flat on it due to striking a stone with a deflated tire, can sometimes
be straightened out fairly satisfactorily, but if it affect's the tire seating'
it is advisable to replace, especially if machine is driven fast.
A simple method of restoring a rim with a flat section is to support
rim on two 2x4 boards spaced about the distance of fiat section and pound
out rim with a heavy soft hammer or with steel hammer and block of
wood, on irrside of rim. Results are easily checked by cutting out a template
from cardboard, marking off an arc from true section o rim.
Size of Rims-All rims fitted to English models for the past 25 years
are of the drop centre type. When securing a replacement there are
three points that must be checked to ensure suitability: (1) diameter,
(2) width, (3) number, spacing and angle of spoke holes.
The rims are divided into three classes: (a) W.M. 1, rirn vmdth 2la"
intended for 3.00 tire, although 3.25 can be fitted; (b) W.M. 2, rim width
27/2", intended for tires up to 3.50", a 4.0O" can be used on this rim;
(c) W.M. 3, rim width 3", intended for 4.00 tire.
The correct number and angle of spoke holes is of utmost importance
when replacing a rim. It is not advisable to attempt to fit a rim differing in
these details fro,m the original.
WHEELS, HUB BEARINGS AND BRAKES 501
Rim Tapes-These are advisable to prevent spoke ends from damaging

inner tube. ff not available, one can be easily made from an old inner
tube.
ll'heel Bearings
Tgres of Bearings-
1. Tapered roller with one fixed and one adjusting cone.
2. Ball cone type with one fixed and one adjusting cone.
3. Ball bearing type-non'adjustable.
Lubrication-A medium grease or fibrous wheel bearing grease is
most suitable where grease nipples are fitted. About 6 shots from a.n
averag'e size grease gun is sufficient at 1000-mile greasing intervals. ft is
inadvisable to grease more often as 8:rease may work out o,f hub onto
brake linings.
Every 15-20,000 miles wheel hubs should be dismantled and grease
cleaned out, bearings washed in varsol and reassembled, packing hub
about 1/z full of new grease.
;-i l.],, ' : t-" ,;;,',,-,;:'11,::!:E

',0;;.,';
.. :',-
+;:f5=*;rt"k-.f
IL. 211
TESTTNG TEE IIIIIEEL BEARINGS T'OR SIITCKIIESS

Bearing adjustment is advisable when play at wheel rim develops tolAz-Vte,,. (See notes on
"Adjusting Bearinss.,,)
Adjusting Bearings-The tapered roller and ball cone type usualty

have the cone on the brake drum side tightened up against a shoulder on
the axle and the other cone is used for adjustment and has a locknut. A
slight bearing running clearanee is essential, espeeially for the tapered
roller style. To adjust: slacken axle nut on adjusting side, slacken locknut
from cone, tighten cone using only moderate pressure (not over 10 lbs.
on a 6" wrench), then slacken off about Y+", turn and tighten up locknut;
check to make sure that bearing is perfeetly free. Just perceptible pIay,
not more tharr y61" at rim, is required on the tapered roller tlpe but not
on the ball type.
It should be noted that tighteni4g the adjusting cone locknut always

takes up some of the clearance due to the cone being moved inward, the
amount dependent on the play in the threads. Re-tighten the axle nut
after completing adjustment.
Remember that adjusting bearings too tightly is ruinous and it is
better to have slightly excessive clearance than insufficient. Generally,
bearings should be adjusted when play develops so that Yr6" or more move-
ment at wheel rim is perceptible.
tlt. 2L2
NDLE 1IIIEEL BEAR,ING

htuT ADJLTST}IENT
This itlustration sho1,,'s the
type of bearing adiustment
common to most mlchines.
A simple procedure 1o fol'
low is to slacken off the
locknut, tighten bearing ad-
justment nut, using only
moderate pressure, then
slacken off 1i turn and
( tiBhten locknut. Do not
NUX oYerlook retightening spindle
EEARINC ADJUSTMENT NUT

Replacing Bearings, Ball or Roller Cone T54re-Provided with proper
lubrication and adjustment, bearings will usually cover 25-50,000 miles
without replacement. Replacement requirements can only be definitely
determined by careful examination and whenever hubs are dismantled
for washing out and repacking, the cones, cups and balls, or rollers,
should be carefully examined. The hub bearing'cups or races are a light
press fit in hub and can be removed by tapping out with punch or length
of steel rod.
Non-Adjrustablo Ball Bearing Type-Replacement is advisable '"vhen
wheel rim play exceeds 7::-%". These bearings are a fairly tight fit in the
hub and when replacing', pressure for inserting should be applied on the
outer races, not the inner. This wiII avoid stress on rollers and bearing
surfaces.
Assembling Loose Ball T,ype-No difficulty will be expedenced if the
bearing races in the hub are thoroughly smeared ruith medium or flbrous
g'rease. The balls can then be placed in the grease and u'iII hold r'vhile the
axle with fixed cone is inserted and adju,sting cone screwed up. Be sure
not to fit one trall too many when replacing. Y.r'hen all balls are in, there
should be some end clearance between the balls.
Wheel Bearing Grease Betainers-On most hubs there are some type
of grease retainers intended to prevent grease working out of the hub and
finding its way onto the brake linings. These retaihers usually are in the
form of one or more of the following: Pressed steel cups pressed into
the hub, felt washers, steel washers.
These grease retainers usually perform their function except where an
excessive amount of g:rease gun lubrication is given. Besides keeping
grease from leaking out, the retainer on the side opposite the brake
especially, is intended to keep dirt and water out of the bearing.
WHEELS, HUB BEARINGS AND BRAKES 503
Brake Arljustments
Most brakes are provided with only a control rod or control cable
adjustment. Notable exceptions are the Ariel and Sunbeam, which have a
fulerum shoe adjustment as is common in car practice. This method of
adjustment enables the wear to be evenly distributed on both ends of the
lining, and provides for maintained efficiency and longer life for brake
linings. On this type, procedure is to tighten shoe adjusting fulcrrrm
screw fully and then slacken one or two cticks. A rear brake rod adjust-
ment is provided chiefly for adjusting position of brake pedal, although in
the case of the Ariel it can be used for minor brake adjustments required
when rea,r wheel is moved when adjusting chain. The front brake cable
adjuster is provided for adjusting slack in this control.
After making brake adjustment, put wheel on stand and note that it
spins freely without drag, A 3/4" free movement of brake pedal lever
before brake goes into action, is usually sufficient slack.
On Ariels and some other makes, fitted with a long rear brake pedaJ
and a limited range of movement, slack should be kept to a minimum so
that sufficient ra4ge of movement is maintained to permit full braking.
Brake R'elining
The mileage at which brakes require relining varies a great deal
according to conditions of use. This is usually needed at 15-30,000 miles,
but should be done sooner if there is notable loss of brake efficiency as
a result of lining wear or grease working onto lining. Linings that are not
appreciably worn but ineffieient as a, result of glazinB or grease satura-
tion, ean sometimes be restored to efficiency by washing thoroughly in
gasoline or boiling in a deterg'ent soap and water solution add roughening
by rubbing on a sheet of coarSe emery cloth or sandpaper. If this treatment
does not restore braking to desired efficiency, relining should be done.
A set of the correct moulded linings, drilled and with rivets ready
for fitting to shoes, should be obtained if available. The best policy is to
have shoes relined at a local auto supply firm equipped w.ith speci.atized
brake servicing equipment.
To decide on the thickness of lining required, proceed as follows:
Measure brake drum inside diameter, measure the diameter of the bare
brake shoes mounted on the brake plate. This is usually 651r,, on a 7,,
brake. Divide the difference in diameter by two to obtain the thickness
of lining, which in this case is lhe".
Three-sixteenths is the most comrnon thickness of lining on heavier
models; %2" is used on many medium weight types; 5,, and 6,, brakes and
% " is used on some of, the small lightweights.
Bivetting-Where this cannot be done in a brake rivetting machine,
a punch or round steel rod about the diameter of brake rivet head, should
be set up in vice to rest rivet heads on when rivetting over. Lining is
best secured to shoes for this operation, using vice grip pliers.
Bra,ke I)rum Clea,rance-tr or maximum braking efficiency, Iinings
should have a minimum brake drum clearance. rn instances where drums
are turned out oversize to remove scoring and diameter is increased 7,h2,, ot
more, special brake shim material should be fitted between shoes and
Iining to make up the space. Where drums have been turned outTAz" a shim
of /oa" should be fitted on each shoe under the new brake lining to main-
tain the original shoe-drum clearance.
Brako Shoo Adjustments-Ariel, A.J.S.-Matchless and Sunbeam have
brake shoe adjustments. Refer to the Wheel Section of these Chapters
for details.
Brake Drqum Machining
Il is impossible to obtain peak braking efficiency if the drums are
badly worn and out of true. Where wear exceeds 1s2", it is advisable to
have drum turned or g:round out. This job can be handled easily on even
a small lathe if the brake drum is removable. If part of the hub, it can
be done on one of the special brake drum turning machines at an auto-
motive machine shop or in s. large lathe with sufficient "swing."
Brako Plate Spa,cer \ffashers-Some models have one or more spacer
washens fitted on the wheel axle between the cone and brake plate to
adjust the spacing of the brake plate from the drrrm so that it will not
rub on the spoke heads. Take care not to lose these when dismantling; if
there is any tendency for rubbing to occur, fit an extra \62" t}:iek spacer
washer,
Section 14
REF'INISHING
Refinishing is something that should be considered when the machine
is dismantled for reconditioni4g as it affords an opportunty to have the
finish restored to new without involving nearly as much work as if the
job has to be stripped down later on for refinishing only.
The averaS:e rider and shop without specialized refinishing facilities
is well advised to have this work done out at an auto body shop. The
most economical way to handle such a job is to turn over the tanks,
mudguards, battery carrier, toolbox and chainguards, to the paint shop,
cleaned down, and have them remove any dents, surface and spray the
job and apply the desired striping. A job equal to new can usually be
obtained at a very moderate cost. A set of new tank transfers should be
applied to set off the job and give that "original" appearance.
Painting the frame, forks and cycle parts can be easily handied by the
average owner. First, these surfaces should be smoothed down and all
rust and grease removed with emery cloth and gasoline and then wiped
clean. A small tin of touch-up black with the brush in the lid is very
convenient for this job. Any painting and "touching-up" should be done in
a dust-free place if possible.
Wheel hubs and spokes are rather difficult to paint with a brush and
it is often just as weil to pass these up unless they are to be sprayed.
Applying Ta,nk Transfers-There are two types of transfers and these
are applied as follows:
(a) "F ace-up" type-Soak in water for a few minutes, then place
transfer backing against tank with the face up and slide the transfer off
the backing and start it on the tank. Then, holding part of transfer to
tank, slide out the backi4g. The transfer should be loeated and smoothed
RE}X'INISHING
out by stroking lightly with a wet cloth. After transfer has dried, a coat
of clear varnish applied will aid in preserving it.
(b) "E ace-do'wn" type-Apply varnish to transfer and stick to tank.
Then apply warm water to transfer cover paper which will wash off.
After drying a coat of varnish can be applied to preserve.
Cylinder Blacking-Cast iron cylinder blocks and heads tend to rust
after the orig:inal protective coating wears off, especially where machine
is out in the wet a lot. Special cylinder blacking paint that is available
should be applied every time the motor is reconditioned. This job is best
done when the cylinders and heads are removed, although it is possible
to do a fair job on this when assembled by using a long bristled brush.
Blocks should be thoroughly cleaned before painting.
Chromium Plating-It is inadvisable to clean chrome plating with
metal polishes that are of an abrasive nature, Cleaning with a wet chamois
cloth and polishing with a clean dry soft cloth is reeommended.
Removing Burned Oil anil Smoke Gum Deposits from Chrome-
Methyl-hydrate is a very effective solvent for this purpose and can be used
without damage to a.ny metal part, but it should not be allowed to contact
any paintwork as its solvent action quickly attacks paint.
Removing Dents from Gas Ianks-lf on the painted section of the
tank, filliqg is the simplest method in most instances. An alternative
method is to cut a hole in the bottom of the tank and have the dent
tapped out. This is especialty a good system where the dent extends into
part of the chrome plating and it is desired to retain this. Such work is
usually best done at an auto body shop.
Avoid use of open flame on tank unless tank has been completely
drained, flushed with boiling water, aired out dry and cap is removed.
Steam pressure is an effective method of cleaning: out any gasoline or
vapour remaining.
Section 15
CONTB,OL CABLES AND .4.CCESSOR,IES

Caro of Control Cables-The English type stranded wire control
cables give very satisfactory service if provided with proper care as
outlined below.
1. Eliminate sharp bends as much as po,ssible.
2. Arrange eables so they will not be trapped by the front forks within
the extremes of, turning and up and down fork movement.
3. Locate clutch cable casing so that it does not contact the battery
case. A slight leakage of battery acid is often the cause of early failure
of clutch cables when in contaet with battery case.
4. Lubricate inner cable exposed ends every 1000 miles or monthly.
(More often il a wet climate.)
5. Replace inner control cables as soon as two or three strands become
broken.
6. When fitting a nipple to inner cable, be sure to drill a countersink
or file a flat at the end of nipple abottt a/z through and spread the cable
strands over into this countersink or over flat before soldering. ff properly
done this will eliminate trouble with nipples pulling off,
Control Cable Repairs and Replacernents

Mostly all premature control cable trouble develops from neglecting
the maintlnance points listed above. Nipples pulling off clutch and brake
cables at the handlebar end are the most common troubles but can be
eliminated by proper nipple fittirlg.
It is false economy to try and repair inner control cables by soldering
up broken strands. Once two or three strands are broken, or even one
stlrand has unravelled appreciably, immediate replacement is best made
as there is very little useful life left.
How to Install a New Clutch Control Inner Catrle-
1. Smear inner cable with light g'rease before installing.
2. If new cabte was supplied with the lever end nipfle already fitted,
connect this up to the handlebar lever and pull bottom end of cable
through the etutch operating lever on gearbox. Screw the outer cable
a/n of the
adjusfer fairly well towards [he operating Iever so that at 1"'51
adjuetment will be available for taking up slack for future cable adjust-
ments.
I'it nipple onto inner cable up against the gearbox lever, pull on
3.
cable to take up any slack, then bick off nipple about %u"' "Tin" the
inner cable slighlly on both sides of the nipple, using soldering iron and
acid core solder. Allow to cool and then cut off the surplus of the inner
cable leaving about 1/s" projecting past the nipple, using cable cutters or
good side cutting pliers.
4. Spread over the cable strand ends at end of nipple. Heat the nipple
ana apply the acid core solder. It is very important that the cable strand
enas ue well ,,spread out,, over end of nipple. This wiII prevent cable
pulling out of nipple.
5. Adjust with cable adjuster and cluteh pushrod adjusting screw
as may be necessary to provide 1Aa" ftee cable slack and the most favorable
gearbox clutch lever arm operating angle.
Be srtre to .,Tin" Inner Cable Before cuttirrg-with the exception of
Amal "Non-fray" cable which can be cut without danger of unravelling,
most other stranded wire control cables must be "tinned" rvith solder and
allowed to cool before cutting, otherwise unravelling and spoiling of the
cable is almost certain. Tin at least 1/2" on either side of the point rvhere
cable is to be cut. Tying a knot in the inner cable towards the end is a
good precaution to take when tinning cable to ensure against unravelling.
if tinning is being done fairly close to the end, cable end should be
gripped with pliers or held lightly in vice.
vt/hen Fitting complete New control cables-The correct factory
made up cables with both nipples soldered ready for installing are not
always available, but one of the accessory cables that is supplied in rather
mord than adequate length with one nipple not fitted, can easily be
installed.
First remove the new inner eable and cut the outer casing'to the
same length as the original, if it was of suitable length, and refit the end
cap. It is inadvisable to cut cables much longer than necessary.
Connect up cable, make sure it is fitted through the cable adjuster
before soldering nippte, unless adjuster is of the split type. The nipple
can be soldered to the cable first, before cutting and spreading over cable
strand ends, and the control operated to make sure nipple is in the correct
CONTROL CABLES AND ACCEISSORIES 507
Iocation and everything is O.K. Then cable can be cut, ends spread over
nipple end and soldered.
((( /i) ) i;
lt) I
\
'a'\
z.:
,,,,/
r\u
/ / / t lr r // / // ////11,,,
rn. 213
STEI'S IN F'ITTING A CONTR'OL CARIJ NIPPLE

Inner cable should be "tinned" with solder before cutting unless of the "non-fray" variety.
it is important that cable hole in nipple be deeply countersunk and ends of cable strands
*!ti- ove. as shown before iotOering. This procedure will eliminate trouble with
"p.i"a
oipples puuing off.
Accessories
Speedometers-Smith's Speedometers are standard equipment on prac-
tically all British models. If speedometer ceases to function, the drive
should be first inspected, disconnecting drive casing at the speedometer
end to note whether speedometer is being driven. Broken cables are not
uncommon.
If the trouble is in the speedometer head, the average rider is weII
advised to have it checked over and repaired by some firm specializing
in this work,
Speedometer Drive Cable Lubrication-speedometer cables will operate
for Iong periods without lubrication but lvill last longer if lubricated. Light
g'rease or g'rease and oil mixed should be forced into the speedometer cable
housing about every 10,000 miles. On the front drive and fork mounted
types, disconnecting of the drive outer casing at the speedometer end is
the best way to lubricate. On the Ariel gearbox drive types, remove the
dowel screw on gearbox cover. tris will enable the drive to be withdrawn
from the gearbox. Raise end up to tank level and pour or force lubricant
in so it will be able to pass up the full length of the cable.
When refitting the Ariel cable, the driving dog must make complete
engagement with the slot in top of the worm drive gear. If the machine is
moved slightly when in gear, as cable is pushed down, easy engagement
can be made.
Saddles-The Lycetts and Terry's spring mattress type saddles are
equipment on most British models. These saddles have the advantage of
a soft top but on most machines the saddle mounting springs are much
too stiff and the rang'e of movement much too smaJl.
Saddle nose is generally located too low resulting in tendency for rider
to slide ahead.
Much improved riding comfort can be obtained by fitting ionger and
softer saddle springs. The new barrel type springs give a softer and-
more progressive action and fitting these is recommended rvhere noL
standard equipment. The saddle nose shouid be raised by sultable exten-
sions to pivot, made from L"xTto" strap iron. Nose height should be
sufficient so that there is no tendency for rider to slide ahead. Generally
mounting so rear of saddle is 7/2,, to B/4tt lower than nose gives most
comfort.
Dua,l Seats-Most English dual seats produced up to 1952 have not
been provided with any spring mounting, their limited shock-absorbing
qualities being derived from the air-cell rubber interior. A fair degree of
comfort is provided on machines with rear wheel springing but these seats
are not recommended for use on rigid rear wheel machines unless operating
on very smooth roads.
To provide spring mounting on the dual seats currently being produced
presents a problem. An increase in height of at least 2" is inevitable.
The main essentials are to provide a rigid pivot mounting, the original
saddle nose pivot lug on frame will do but a more forward position gives
better results; and overload spring's that can be easily put in or out of
operation to take care of load of passeng:er. A rubber buffer should be
provided to cushion any contact between seat bottom and rear mudg-uard
on severe bumps.
SIDECARS 509
\
\ Sa,fety Guards-Secure attachment of safety guards to frame is most
I important. Loosely fitted guards may be more of a ]nazard than a
t protection,
I
vlrinrlshields-Proper fitting of this equipment is important. shield
should !9 ""! so toptoisreduce
kept well tightened
about 10 degrees back from vertical and ctamps
vibration and possibility of shield loosening.
in operation and affecting steering.
Section 16
SIDECAR,S
Sidecar Gearing-It is essential that .,solo,, gear ratio be redueed 1b
to 20/o for sidecar service. The most suitable gearing va.ries, dependent
on the tgre of machine, power curve, averag'e load and operating condi-
tions. on most British models, suitable sidecar g:earing is obtiined r! ritting
an engine sprocket with 3 less teeth. For heavy sidecar serviie on a
500 c.c. or smaller model, 4 less teeth will usually give the best gearing.
Avoid overgearing-rt is very inadvisable to operate a sidecar outfit
with solo gearing. overgearing imposes considerable strain on the motor,
impairs top gear performance and acceleration and can cause overheating.
Sidecar Alignment-Should be checked and adjusted whenever a side-
car is fitted. rt is usually advisable to eheck and readjust as necessary
every 2000 miles.
To check sidecar wheel toe-in, inflate tires to standard pressures and
park machine on a level floor. Use two straight edge boards about ?,
long, place alongside wheels a;s illustrated, blocked up about 4,, off the
floor, contacting the tires. Note the measurement between boards at the
front of machine should be r/2,,-s/+,, less than at the rear.
The motorcycle should lean out from sidecar about Yz,,from vertical,
measured at the top of steering head. The motorcyele can be vertical but
it must not lean in towards the sidecar.
Be sure to tighten all connections securely after obtaining correct
alig'nment and re-check connections securely foi tightness when'checking
alignment at 2000-mile intervals. The sidecar wheel should be given the
same maintenance and lubrication as the motorcycle wheels.
sidecar Alig'nrnent A.djustments-on most types, sidecar wheer toe-in
adjustment is made by moving in th6 front chassis connection closer to the
machine at the front clamp to frame. Another type of adjustment is used
on some models, located at rear connection, to provide more toe_in. Rear
connection, which is of telescoping tube or sliding clamp, is slackened
pulled out from machine and retightened whln desired aligalmentand is
obtained.
Where no toe-in adjustment is provided, such as on American Indian
sidecar chassis, the simplest method of providing toe-in is to obtain a
longer rear frame connection bolt (r/2,,-Y+,, ionger) ind fit washers between
r"
the rear sidecar clamp and frame lug sufficient to provide t/ztt-g/4't toe-ira
as illustrated. Secure tightening of this connection is important. Rear
bolt should be drilled, castle nut and cotter pin used.
The required r/2" Iean-out of motorcycle from sidecar is obtained by
adjustment to length of the chassis support tube that connects to motor-
cycle frame under saddle.
Sidecar Wheel Brake-Where this is fitted it is usually connected to
the rear brake rod and should be adjusted so that it comes into action very
slightly after the rear wheel brake.
Efficient Steering Damper Is Essential for Sidecarr Service-Most all
British models have been fitted with steering dampers for the past tvrenty
years and this fitment is a gteat advantage on sidecar work. It should he
kept well tightened with sidecar and tendency to front wheel shimmy or
pull to the sidecar will be greatly reduced and driving effort much reduced
also. ff damper does not provide sufficient damping friction it may be
due to g'rease on friction discs. Wa;shing in gas and buffing wiII usually
overcome this trouble. After prolonged sidecar service, replacement of
friction discs may be necessary.
Note that for solo riding better handling is usually obtained by having
the steering damper completely slacked off, or nearly so.
Tire Wear on Sidecar Service-One disadvantage of the sidecar outfit
is the more rapid tire wear, especially on the rear tire. This can, hor,vever,
be minimized by maintaining good alignment, maintaining correct tire
pressures, by using the front brake as much as possible and ha\ing
the side car and rear brakes correctly adjusted. If ail the braking is done
through the rear wheel the inevitable wheel skidding rapidly accelerates
tire wear.
Sitlecar Tiro Pressures-An increa'se in 5 to 8 lbs. over the standard
rear tire pressure, an additional 2 ot 3 Ibs. front tire pressure, and the
standard solo front tire pressure in the sidecar tire, will suit most outfits.
Ileavier Fork Springs for Sidecar Service-Most manufacturers can
supply heavier fork springs which should be fitted, except on very light
sidecar work where standard solo springs may prove satisfactory.
Section 17
IiOAD TESTING .q.ND FINAL ADJUSTMENTS

To put the finishing touches on a reconditioning job, a thorough
systematic checkover should be made after arssembly is completed, before
road testing, foilowed by a further check and making of final adjustments
after road test.
Reference should be made to the "Motorcycle Assembly and !'ina.l
Check Card" illustrated on page 115. The items indicated by blank spaces
under the first column "Checked on Assembly" should be checked before
putting on the road, and the items shown in the "Checked After Road
Test" column done after test.
ROAD TESTDIG AND T'INAL ADJUSTMENTS 511
m. 214
TIGETENING FOOTREST
S,ECURING NUT
It is most important that footrest nuts,
especially the taper mounting type, be very
securely tightened, to avoid possibility of
footrests shifting oD tapers in operation.
TAPER, IIOUNTED I'OOTREST REMOVAI,

To remoye for dlsmantling or chmging
position, slacken securinB nut and give
footrest a sharp blow with heayy hamm€r.
This applies to Ariel, B.S.A., and some
other types. On Triumph note right sid.e
footrest is taper mounted, but left side ls
peg located, and 3 locations are provid.ed.
III. 218
TIGETENING ENGIND PL.|\TE NUTS

After €lgine has been refitteat to frame, it is most important that engine plate frame nuts
be securely tlAhtened. It is gmd policy to go over these twtce to avoid any posstbility of
over$ight, Check the tightness of these Duts on rouflne checkovers.
5L2 RECONDITIONING AND SERVICING BRITISH MODELS
The importance of a thorough final check after reconditioning cannot

be over emphasized. Time used going over a job after assembled, to ensure
that nothing has been overlooked, is time well spent.
Nut and Bolt Tightening-Probably no other single faetor contributes
more to motorcycle reliability than adequate nut and bolt tightening on
initial assembly and in all service operations. fnsufficient and uneven
tightening is a common failing.
Discretion must, of course, be exercised in tightening the smaller
bolt and stud sizes such as t1n" arrd 940" diameters; coarse thread bolts
will not stand the same &mount of torque as fine threads, due to the
smaJler root dia,meter at the thread. Bolts that thread into aluminum,
except where there is a very long thread, must be tightened with slightly
less than average torque.
Th.e l+" coarse thread bolts used at the crankcase filter plates on
Ariel and Triumph, are an example of where care in tightening is required.
These are easily twisted off and a pressure of 15 ft, Ibs. torque, equal to
30 lbs. on a six wrench, is sufficient.
The average foot lb. torque figures suitable for varying bolt sizes are
as follows: %0"-30 lbs.; 3/s"-40 lbs.; [0"-50 lbs.; %"-60-65 Ibs.;
s/16't-5/8tt-10-80 lbs. These figures are applicable to such items as cylinder
base and head stud nuts and bolts, crankcase, engine plate and frame
bolts, wheel axle nuts and fork bolts.
tr'oot lbs. torque means the pounds pressure that should be exerted
on the end of a wrench measured one foot from nut to point pressure is
centred on wrench. A torque wrench is not essential to obtain a satis-
factory bolt tightening'pressure. The important thing is to note the bolt
size, use a wrench of a length in relation to bolt size, or where an unusually
long wrench is used on a small diameter boit, to reduce pressure accord-
ingly. ft is usually possible to feel when a nut, bolt or scre\\' is pulled up
solid. Bear in mind that wrench pres,sure required depends on $.lench
length; for example, when a wrench of six inches length is usecl the
pressure required is double the foot lbs. torque figures shon-n above.
Use of good judgment and thoroughness, in tightening so that no
nuts, bolts or serews are overlooked, is essential to obtaining reliable
results from any job.
Section 18
ENGLISH SCREW THREADS AND IOOL SIZES

Screw threads and nut size standards on British motorcycles, differ
from American equipment. Brief details on the British standards are
given below.
Whitworth Thread-This is a coarse thread, generally only used for
threadsin aluminum such as cylinder base studs, timing cover and chain-
case screws. The thread angle is 55 degrees, instead of the standard
American 60 degree angle, but the threads per inch in sizes frorn 1/4" to
I/to" diameter are exactly the same as American coarse threads. American
coarse threads can be used satisfactorily as a substitute. An example is
ENGLISH SCREW THREADS AND TOOL SIZES 513
the crankcase oil filter plate cap screws on Ariel and Triumph machines.
American la" coarse cap screws can be used as replacements quite
satisfactorily.
B.S.F. Threads (British Standard Fine)-This thread is most generally
used in the British automotive indu.stry, but it has some application on
English motorcycles. This thread is finer than the American coarse, but
not as fine as the American fine thread. Threads per inch of the common
sizes are as follows:
The most common use of this thread on English motoreycles is the

z1u"x20 usedon all Lucas magneto armature shafts and chain drive type
generature armatures, This thread is also used on B.S.A. Twin model
cylinder head bolts. Thread angle is 55 degrees. It will be observed that
the la" size has 26 threads per inch, the same as the C.E.I. 7+,, size listed
below. Although differing slightly in thread angle, they are generaily
interchangeable in this particular diameter.
C.tr.L "26" Threads (Cycle Engineers Institute)-This is the thread
most generally used through the English cycle and motorcycle industry. It
has a 60 degree thread ang'le, and 26 threads per inch are used for sizes
Ya"-7ha" inclusive. 16" arrd V16" sizes are 20 threads per inch. Tlne a/2,,
size, incidentally, is interchangeable with the American fine thread in
this diameter.
English TooI Sizes

A confusing feature in the identification of English wrenches is that
they are stamped for the bolt diameter, and not the measurement across
nut flats, as is the case in America. What adds to the confusion is the
,identifying with Whitworth sizes. Whitworth bolts use a nut one size
larger than used on B,S.E. and C.E.I., which are the more common sizes
used in motorcycles. For example, a wrench stamped !/4" Wtritworth fits
a nut on a 7/4tt Whitworth bo1t, but on the more colrunon B.S.I'. and C.E.I.
sizes, fits nut on a 546" bolt. ft is, therefore, necessary to deduct #.a,, from
the Whitworth size stamped on the wrench, and this will be the bolt size
for a B.S.E. or a C.E.I.
In the smaller sizes it is worthy of note that the %o', Whitworth (y+,,
B.S.F. or C.E.I.) is equivalent to the American (6". This particular size
of American wrench will fit mostly all nuts oa Y+', bolts on English
machines.
With just a very few exceptions, English nut sizes do not work out
in even one sixteenths of an inch, and for this reason, American tools
are not generally suitable for service work on English motors.
Thread Pitch Ga,uge-The thread pitch gauge is a useful tool for
determining number of threads per inch. ft is wise to check the thread
with such a tool before forcing any nut that does not thread on easily,
if in doubt as to its suitabilitv.
5].4
CHAPTER SEVENTEEN
YILLIERS TWO-STROKE EIYGINES

Villiers two-stroke engines have been the standard power units for
most British, and a large number of European ma.kes of motorcycles,
using two-stroke engines, over a period of many years. Amongst the
British makes using these engine units, are Ambassador, Dot, Excelsior,
Francis-Barnett, James, Norman O.E.C., Tandon, Sun, and others.-Although
the servicing information in this chapter applies directly to villiers, most
general remarks are applicable to other makes of two-stroke engines.
Section 1
LTIBtsICATION
Provisionof correct lubrication is essential to obtain satisfactory
service from a two-stroke motor. There are two methods of lubrication
used on Villiers engines:
(a) The "Petroil" System (oil mixed with petrol [gas] ).
(b) The "Automatic" System (separate oil ta.nk, oil fed through
needle valve adjustment by air pressure in oil tank. Pressure
obtained from crankcase)' This system was last used in 1940.
Tho Petroil System-72 pint of oil mixed with each gallon of gas
provides adequate lubrication of en8'ine bearing surfaces, piston' rings
and cylinder. This 1:16 oit-gasoline ratio can be reduced quite safely to a
ratio of, 7:20 or 7:24, ot motors that are past the running-in stage. A
reduction in the quantity of oil mixed with the gasoline often provides
better results, particularly under light load conditions, a notable advantage
being in reduced carbon formation.
Under no circumstances, however, should the oil-gasoline ratio be
reduced beyond 1:24. X'or very hard driving, the standard 1:16 ratio
mixture is reeommended. S.A.E. No. 40 or No. 50 grade oil is most
suitable for average summer operation. ft is not essential to use light
oil in cold weather with this system as with the separate oiling system'
however, for operation in below fteezing temperatures, S.A.E. No. 30 grade
is recommended.
Mixing the Oil and Gas-This is best done in a sdparate container
when convenient, allowing thorough mixing by shaking, before pouring
into tank. As an alternative, two methods can be adopted for mixing gas
and oil in the tank on the machine. First of all, in either case, shut off
LUBRICATION 515
the g:as tap, Safest method is to put the gas in tank first, pour the oil
in slowly and effect mixing by applying front brake and working up and
down on the handlebars for half a minute or so, after which the gas tap
can be safely turned on.
The alternative method is to pour the oil in the tank first and rely
on the action of the gas being poured in the tank at a fast rate, to assist
in the mixing. Some additional shaking as already described is also
beneficial with this method. fn any event, the important thing is to
shut off the gas tap until mixing has been done, otherwise, oit may find
its way directly to the gas tap, plugging gas line and carburetor.
Once the oil and g:as are well mixed, there is no appreciable amount
of settlement for a considerable time. On occasions where the machine
has been standing for a week or more, it is advisable to rock \rv'eil to
remix, before turning' the gas tap on. This precaution will facilitate
starting.
Tho Autornatic Separa,te Lubrication System-This system which is
only used on certain 1940 and e.arlier models of Villiers separate engine
units, utilizes a separate oil tank. Oil is fed to the crankshaft bearings
via a needle valve adjuster, by which the supply can be regulated. The
pressure for this system is provided by the crankcase compression. T'here
are two pipe lines leading from the crankcase to the oil tank and the
system functions as follows:
Oil holes in the hollow crankshafts and crankshaft bushing's are
designed to register when crankcase pressure is at its maximum, and
this air pressure passes through one of the pipe lines to the oil tank and
creates pressure in the tank. This pressure forces oil up a tube that
extends towards the bottom of the oil tank, into the needle valve feed
adjuster and down through the other pipe line to the crankshaft bearings.
Avoid Air Leaks-The most important point in maintaining the
efficiency of this type of lubricating system is to maintain ,.air-tightness,,
in the pipe line and joints from the erankcase to the tank, and also to
avoid any leakage at the oil tank filler cap. This must have a g'ood gasket
and be kept well tightened. ff any amount of air leakage exists, prLssure
in tank may be insufficient to ensure positive oil feed,
Tho Needle Va,Ive Oil Supply Adjrustment-Turning this in (clockwise)
reduces oil supply, turning out (anti-clockwise) increases supply. The
amount of opening' required varies considerably, depending on the grade
of oil, eondition of the crankshaft main bearings, and other factors.
usually the best adjustment is found within a rang'e of r/z to 2 turns open
from the fully closed position. Adjustment should be set to suit the
individual engine so that consumption rang'es between 800 to 400 miles
per quart.
_ Suitability of the oil adjustment can be judged by' observing the

exhaust smoke. A slight blue smoke should be noticeable when the motor
is idling, and this should be more pronounced when the motor speed is
increased.
Changing from .'.A.utomatic', to ..Fetroil, Lubricatio,n-It is possible
to lubricate entirely by the "Petroi1"' system already described, mixing
t/2 pint of oil per gallon of g:as in place of the ,,Automatic,, system. In
the event of an air leakag'e in the automatic system making the supply
516 VILLIERS TWO-STROKE ENGINES
of oil uncertain, mixing oil with the gas is advisable until the trouble is
reetified.A changeover to "Petroil" lubrication is recommended in cases
where it is necessary to replace the crankcase bushings and the original
special bushings used with the "Automatic" lubrication are not available.
Grades of Oil-Refer to page 726 for recommended oil grades for
varying temperatures. trt is essential to use lighter grades o,f oil for cold
weather service on the ".dutomatic" Separate oiling system, to ensure
oil flow.
Brands of Oil-Any first grade motor oil is quite suitable for two-
stroke lubrieation. However, a trlend of oil that leaves a minimum of
earbon deposit when burned is preferable as a eonsiderable portion of the
oil used in a two-stroke motor is burned and aecumulation of carbon
deposit in the exhaust ports is one of the main causes of falling-off in
power output and overheating.
Section 2
MAINTENA.NCE
IInder average conditions it will be found beneficial to provide
maintenance as detailed in the schedule below. I]nder certain conditions
of use, such as operation under comparatively dust-free conditions, and
where the number of stops and starts are at a minimum, it may be
possible to run for appreciably longer periods than those specified, without
serious depreciation in performance.
Inadequate aircleaner equipment is the cause of most premature weat
on Villiers engines. The standard aircleaner allows fine abrasive dust
particles to enter the engine, and when operating under very dusty condi-
tions, extremely rapid piston ring, piston, eylinder and bearing wear is
experienced, When operating under such conditions, installation of a more
effective aircleaner equipment is strongly recommended. This is of even
greater importance on 2-stroke engines than on the 4-stroke type, because
all the air going through the carburetor, passes through the crankcase
and eomes in more extensive contact with bearing surfaces than is the
case with a 4-stroke motor.
1000-Mile fntervals
Spark Plug-Clean and ,set g:ap ,020"-.025". Cleaning at 500-mile
periods, or more frequent intervals, may be necessary where most oper-
ating is town driving, involving frequent stops and starts. Refer to
Chapter 4 "Maintenance" Spark Plug section, pag:es 131-135 for spark
plug servicing information and plug tJ4)es for varying service conditiohs.
Prirnary Drive Chain Oil-Top up oil level with S.A.E. No. 20
(summer) or No. 10 (winter), Alternative S.A.E. No. 140 gear oil (sum-
mer) and No. 90 g:ear oil (winter).
Gearbox Oil-fop up oil level with S.A.E. No. 50 oil (summer),
S.A.E. No.30 (winter). Alternative lubricant g:ear oil S.A.E. No. 140 or
S.A.E. No. 90.
MAINTENANCE 577
2000-Mile Interva.ls
Carburotor-Drain float chamber and clean sediment from carburetor
body at ,gas union. An obstruction at this point is usually evidenced by
slow flooding of carburetor when float tickler is depressed.
Bre.aker Points-Clean and adjust gap .015", Grease breaker cam.
4000-Mile Intervals
Top Motor Overhaul-Remove cylinder head., cylinder and piston;
remove all carbon, especially from exhaust ports, Replace piston rings-
Check ignition timing and re-set if necessary.
10,000-15,000-Mile Entervals
Complete Motor Overha,ul-This will likely be necessary unless oper-
ating has been under completely dust-free conditions. Need for motor
overhaul is determined by condition of connecting big-end and crankshaft
main bearings. With cylinder removed, con-rod big-end bearings can be
checked by lifting straight up and down on the connecting rod. There
should not be more than barely perceptible clearance in the big-end. If
clearance is more than .004" which can be felt quite readily and noticeably
heard when lifting up and down'on rod, dismaniling and effecting of the
necessary replacements should be undertaken. crankshaft main.bearings
cah be checked by lifting up and down on flyvrheel, or driveside crankshafl.
Just perceptitrie elearance is permissible, but when clearance exceeds
.004"-.005", replacement should be made.
Cylinder Retrore-Cylinder should be rebored and oversize piston rings
installed when cylinder wear exceeds .008,,. piston replacement should be
made regardle,ss of cylinder condition if piston top ring land is worn to
give .007" or more side clearance on rings, or if stop pegs are in badly
worn condition.
When piston replacement is being made bec.ause of worn piston con.
full benefit, it is advisable to rebore cylinder if worn
dition, to get the
more than .004".
Exhaust System antl Muffler-Clean out.
Ilear Drive Sprocket-{his sprocket wears out rapidly and replace-
ment is generally required every 10,000 miles or more often.
Section 3
CLEAR,ANCES AND SETTINGS
VILLIEBS UNIT MODEL 98 c.c. 725 c.c. 200 c.c.

Clearamces and Settings (1F & 2r' (9D & 10D) (6E)
Pieton Clearances (rounil finish)

Bottom of, skirt.......... .003r/2" .004" .0041/2"
Top of skirt..........-.... .005" .006" .007"
Ring lands... .010" .072" .074"
Piston ring joint gap................. .010" .010" .o72"
Piston pin in piston .000" .000" .000"

Piston pin in rod...................:......... ,001/2" .A0a/2,,
'oo1/2"
Standard cylinder bore, mm...... *47 mm. 50 mm. 59 rnm.
Standard cylinder bore, inches.. 1.850" 1.969"
*542" t
Ignition advance. (on Piston). * \/-tl 75/^, t
Breaker point gaP...... .0]'.5" .015" .075"

Spark plug Point gaP.....' .020"-.025" .020"-.025" .020"-.025"
Con-rod big-end clearance...... .001/2,' .o0r/2,, .004/2"

Con-rod side elearance.'..................... .'.... .010" .010" .010"
VILLTERS SEPARATE UNIT

148 c.c. 196 c.c. 249 c.c.
"I)eflector-Toy'' Piston Models
Piston Clearances (round finish)
l'Cast Iron" Pistons
.0027/2" .oo2r/2"
.003" .003"
Riig lands... .010" .012"
Pistonsin (Y" Alurninum AlloY

Bottom of skirt...'..'.. .004r/2" .005" .005yr"
Top of skirt'............'. .00612" .007" .007 ,vz"
Ring lands... .018" ,020" ,022"
Piston ring joint gap (additional to

width of '7stop" in groove).... .010" .012" .072"
Piston pin in Piston .000" .000" .000"

Piston pin in rod..'..'....'...... .00r/2,, .0012" .00r/2"
Ignition advance (on Via" "/16
Breaker point gaP..'.. .015" .015" .015"

.020"-,025" .020"-.025" .020"-.025"
Con-rod big-end clearance...... .001/2" .007/2" .007/2"

Con-rod side clearance..'.........'...'........'... .010" .010" .010,,
Crankshaft clearance in bushings.."" '' .C02-2r/2" .002-2a/2" .002-2r/2"
*1948 antl Earlier 98 c.c.-Cylinder bore size is 50 mm.: 1'969"' Ignition

advance is V+".
*1948 and Earlier 125 c.c.-(Double Exhaust Port)-Ignition advance ir
4\a".
VILLIERS ENGINE SERVICING 519
Section 4
VILLIEES ENGINE SETI,VIOING

(a) Top Overhaul
Top overhaul, involving carbon removal and examination of piston
and rings, involves a similar procedure on all Villiers engines. This
attention is generally beneficial at 4000-mile intervals. Under some con-
ditions, particularly on the 7949-7952 single port exhaust fnodels, carbon
deposits in the exhaust port are such that exit of the exhaust gas.is
seriously restricted causing power lo,ss, and overheating within 4000 miles.
This trouble is not so pronounced on the 1948 and earlier 2-port exhaust
models.
Top Overhaul Procedlrre-Remove spark plug, cylinder head, exhaust
pipes, carburetor, cylinder block and piston. Mark the piston to ensure
that it is refitted in its original position. After this "top" dismantling is
completed, check on the bottom end bearings to ascertain whether atten-
tion is necessary. If the con-rod big-end up and down clearance does not
exceed .004", and the maihshaft clearance is not over.005", further bottom
end service can be obtained and the machine may be set aside while the
"bench work" on the top end parts is completed.
Carbon Bernoval-The carbon from the cylinder head and exhaust
ports especially, must be scraped out. X'or this job, an old heavy screw-
driver, knife, bearing scraper or files ground to suit, will serve very well.
Coarse emery cloth is useful for finishing up on the exhaust ports. Take
care not to damage the cylinder bore during these operations.
If time permits, a perfect job of carbon removal can be obtained by
submerging the cylinder block in a hot caustic soda and water solution
for an hour or two. This applies to cast iron cylinders and pistons only,
and steel exhaust systems. IJnder no circumstances must any aluminum
parts be put in the caustic soda solution as they will be ruined. After
taking parts out of caustic soda solution, they should be flushed off with
a water hose. This solution removes the paint from the cylinder block;
to avoid rusting a thin coat of stove pipe enamel should be applied.
Note that on all Villiers motors with removable cylinder heads, the
heads are aluminum. Other aluminum parts are the inlet manifold attached
to the cylinder block, and the exhaust port manifolds attached to the
eylinder block on 1948 and earlier models. Such parts must be detached
before cylinder block is submerged ih the caustic soda solution.
PARTS EXAMINATION AND REPLACEMENTS

Piston-After parts have been cleaned up, examine the piston ring
grooves carefully, and check skirt elearance in cylirrder. ff piston skirt
clearance is .003" in excess of standard clearance (see page 518), replace-
ment is advisable. When piston is being replaced, cylinder should be
rebored and fitted with the required oversize piston rings if the cylinder
wear exceeds .004". Normally, if piston is in sound condition, cylinder
reboring and fitting of oversize piston, need not be uhdertaken until
cylinder wear exceeds .008".
Piston Ring Gaps-These should be checked by removing rings from

piston, placing squarely in cylinder bore and checking gap. Replace if
gap exceeds .030".
1940 a"nd Earlier Type B,ing Stops-On 148 c.c. and 249 c.e. types with
deflector pistons, ring stops are used extending completely across each
groove. Width of this stop when new is .040',. Allowance for this must be
made when checking ring gap with ring placed in cylinder. Replacement
should be made when gap in cylinder exceeds .07O", and new rings should
be filed to give appro:<imately .050" gap, allowing .010,, actual joint gap.
A good method of checking these ring gaps finally is to fit rings to
piston, install complete piston in cylinder, and move piston until ri.ng
joints are visible at carburetor inlet port opening; the actual gap between
the ring ends and ring stop can then be checked.
Peggeil Piston Eing Stops-Screwed peg's occupying about one-half
the ring groove width are used for stops on the 98 c.e., 725 c.e. axrd 200
c.c. "Flat-Top" type Villiers. On this tlpe of ring ,010,'-.012,, gap is
required between the squared or mitred ring ends. These rings are usually
supplied with sufficient cutaway for the round stop pegs. If not, file the
peg cutaways to enlarge. This can be checked by squeezing ehds of piston
ring together, after fitting to piston, and noting that ends of ring come
together without the cutaway closing: up on peg.. Another method is to
insert piston with rings in cylinder and position so that joints register
with inlet manifold opening where a removable manifold is used. The
piston can then be rotated back and forth, and stop clearance noted. Where
it is not possible to view the ring joints on types without removable injet
manifold, stop peg ring clearance is confirmed if it is possible to rotate
the pirston very slighttry either way before pressure ag.ainst ring ends
is felt.
Removo Carbon ,F'rona Bottom of Ring g1s6vs5-d section of old
piston ring makes a very effective tool for scraping carbon deposit frotrr
bottom of ring' grooves. A small screwdriver or other pointed instrr-rment
is useful for removing carbon from the vicinity of the ring stop pegs.
All earbon must be removed before new rings are installed, and it shoujd
be noted that the new ring:s will fit down into the grooves sligh'cly beio."v
the level of the piston lands,
Ring Joint Gap-Inadequate ring joint gap often results in broken
piston rings. ft is usually necessary to file the joints of new rings slightly
to provide the required gap of .070"-.072',.
Fiston Pins a,nd Bushings-Fiston pin fits vary slighily when new.
Pins are generally a light hand press fit in piston. If pin is noticeabiy
tight in piston, piston should be warmed. Simplest method is to soak a
cloth in boilirlg water and wrap it around the piston for a minute or so.
This will usualty heat sufficiently to permit easy pin remoyal, Note-if
pin is being tappel out, it is most important that piston be well supported
on the opposite side, to avoid bending connecting rod.
"Circlips" are fitted in g'rooves at the end of piston pin holes on the
flat top piston motors, to retain piston pins. When refitting circlips, make
sure they fit right down into g'rooves. Circlip tyle pin retainers are
essential on the flat top piston models as the pin ends pass ports in the
cylinder, and the soft end pad type pin used on the deflector top pistons
cannot be used due to the position of ports.
VILLIERS ENGINE SERVICING 52].
On 1940 and earlier deflector top pistons, with soft end pins, care
should be taken when driving: out pins, to avoid damage to the so,ft
end pads.
Piston Pin Bushing-Replace when the pin clearance is .003" or more.
Slight reaming or honing sometimes is necessary after insertion of bushing..
Pin must be a free fit in rod bushing.
REASSEMBLING
Pour a small quantity of oil over the con-rod big-end; warm piston
if pin is a tight fit so that pin can be installed. without tapping. ff it
should be necessary to tap pin in, support piston on opposite side to avoid
bending con-rod.
Deflector T;,pe Pistons-Note that this type of piston must be fitted
with the long slope of the deflector to the front, faciag the exhaust port,
The vertical side of the deflector faces the rear.
The old cylinder base gaskets on Villiers can usually be re-used satis-
factorily, if in sound condition. If a new gasket is fitted, it should be of
at least equal thickness to the original; if of less thickness, cylinder will
be slightly lower when tightened down and piston rings may strike on
any ring ridge in the top end of cylinder. Oil piston and rings before
refitting cylinder.
Refitting Cylinder-Best method is to enter the joint ends of top
ring into cylinder first, then press in on ring opposite joint, lowering
cylinder completely over top ring; then tilt cylinder over joiat ends of
second ring and press in on ring opposite joint while cylinder is agaih
Iowered down. Note-Lockwashers are fitted under cylinder base nuts;
tighten these down evenly.
Refitting the Cylintler Head-Before refitting the cylinder head, it is
advisable to check ignition timing, as timing is more convenienily measured
with head removed. See page 549.
No gasket is used on any Villiers cylinder head joint. Head joint
Ieakage is very unusual, but if any occurs, the head should be lighily
rubbed do'wtt on a sheet of emery cl.oth, on a level surface. Head bolts
should be tightened uniformly, and in a diagonal pattern.
Compression Rele.ase Valve-This is no longer generally fitted, except
to the powerbike type engines. No attention is norma^lly required unJess
leaking compression, when it shoulcl be dismantled and g.round in.
Clea,ning Out the Exha,ust Systern-The exhaust system should be
examined on every top overhaul, and cleaned out if notably obstructed
with carbon deposit. On the 1949 and later single exhaust port motors,
obstruction in the exhaust pipe often occurs at cylinder end, and it is
often sufficient to just scrape out this deposit concentrated at this point.
An effective method of cleaning out exhaust pipe and silencer, is to fill
with a hot caustic soda and water solution. This can be accomplished by
fitting a large cork into the cylinder end of exhaust pipe, and propping
the plpe with muffler end up and pouring ih the solution through muffler
outlet. After allowing to stand an hour or two, the exhaust can be flushed
out with water hose. Note-Aluminum expansion chambers and cylinder
block manifolds as used on some 2-stroke models, must not be put in the
caustic soda solution. This solution attacks aluminum, although it do€6
not harm steel or cast iron.
522 VILLIERS TWO.STROKE ENGINES
(b) L25 c.c. Mk. 9D Unit

1948 and Earlier Double Exhaust Types
These units are identified by the double exhaust port and hand gear-
shift control. Reference should be rnade to sub-section (a) for notes on
top overhaul, generally applicable to all Villiers models.
Crankcaso Dismantling-The magneto flywheel should first be
removed. A good-fitting box wrench should be applied to nut, and given
a few sharp hammer blows. Note: After nut has unwound a turn or so,
the withdrawal shoulder on nut comes into operation and nut rvill tighten
again. The wrench must then be given a few further sharp hammer biows
to withdraw flywheel frorn taper. If flywheel does not withdraw readily
after a fair amount of pressure has been applied to wrench, strike end of
nut a sharp blow with hammer.
Next, dismantle the primary drive, Remove engine sprocket nut,
unwind clutch spring cap screws, and clutch hub mainshaft nut. If the
engine is still in the motorcycle, mainshaft is best held for nut removal
by engaging high gear and applying rear brake. A few sharp hammer
blows to wrench handle should loosen nut. If motor is removed from frame,
shaft can be held by wedging a piece of wood against rear drive sprocket.
Clutch IIub Romoval-Clutch hub is a taper fit on mainshaft. A puller
can easily be made up from a piece of 7s" steel plate threaded for a Yz"
centre screw and drilled to match the clutch spring posts. This plate
can then be attached with two of the clutch spring screws, centre
screw turned in and g:iven a sharp rap with hammer. This wiII withdraw
hub frorn shaft taper. An alternative method is to remove the gearbox
end cover and give clutch hub end of mainshaft a sharp rap *'ith hammer
and drift.
The mainshaft, layshaft and aI1 gears except the main drive gear,
can now be removed. Unless it is desired to replace the main drive gear
or bearing, there is no point in removing.
Engine Sprocket Removal-Engine sprocket is a straight fit on
crankshaft, and can easily be removed without puI1er. There is, hou'ever,
adequate clearance for use of any universal type gear pul1er. Before
attempting to remove the inner chaincase note that the countersunk head
screw directly above the mainshaft, securing the top of chaktcase to rear
of crankcase, is removed.
Sepa,rating Crankca,ses-After removal of all crankcase securing screw

nuts, heat crankcase. If a torch is used, take care not to apply near
armature plate if this has been left mounted on crankcase. A satisfactory
methocl is to submerge the crankcase except for the magneto armature
plate, in boiiing water. The reason for heating wheh dismantling is to
release the crankshaft ball bearings from the crankcase halves. These
ball bearings are usually a very tight fit on the crankshafts, and it js
simpler to leave on the shafts when dismantling and reassembling.
After heating:, lower the erankcase assembly from a height of about
6", s+.riking drive end of crankshaft on bench top. If crankcase halves do
not separate immediately, check to make certain that all securing nuts
have been removed.
Crankshaft Main Bearing Beplacements-If there is noticeable play

in mainsha"ft ball bearings or roughness after they have been cleaned and
lubricated, replace. Old bearings are best removed with gear puller. When.
fitting new bearings, these are most conveniently installed when the
crankshafts are separated so that crankshaft halves can be set down on
bench. Bearings should be driven on with a tube spacer bearing against
the inner race. Note spacer is fitted between drive side bearings.
Crankshaft Sepa,ration-The simplest method of separating crankshaft
halves from crankpin is to pull off one crankshaft half, using a gear puller
as shown in Ill 217. Crankpin can then be driven out of crankshaft half
in which it remains, with hammer and drift.
Con-rod Big-end Replacements-In most instanees where appreciable
big-end clearance has developed, replacement of crankpin rollers and
con-rod will be necessary to provide a satisfactory fit. In some instances
where only slig:ht wear has taken place, replacement of crankpin and
rollers may suffice. The manufacturers do not supply oversize bearing
rollers, and fitting is not recommended as there is insufficient circum-
ference roller clearance. Note that bronze and steel rollers are fitted
alternately.
Bea,ssembling Con-rod Big-end-Press crankpin into one crankshaft
half. Smear crankpin bearing surface with thick grease and locate.rollers
in position, alternating steel and bronze. Slip rod onto be.aring. Note that
crankpin end and hole in crankshaft half are clean and dry. Press on
crankshaft half. When pressing on, note that assembly is made in approxi-
mate alignment.
After assembled, alignment is easily adjusted by holding one crank-
shaft half and giving light hammer rap to other crankshaft throw on
either side as may be necessary. Alignment should be checked in truing
jig or lathe. In instances where shaft centres are damag'ed or are not
concentric with shafts, one flylvheel sha.ft should be "chucked" in lathe,
running true, and the other crankshaft throw tapped as necessary to
provide truest possible running.
Crankshaft Ehil Plugs-After alignment has been effected, the crank-
pin end plugs should be fitted. These are not always fitted to the earlier
model eng:ines, but installing reduces possibility of crankshaft alignment
shifting during operation. Procedure is to locate a tapered plug in hole
at each end of crankpin, locate assembly in vice and tighten vice until
end plugs are flush.
. If new end plugs are not available but are fitted in the old pin, the
simplest method of removal from old pin is to grind through the centre
of old pin to get through the hardening, cut through with hacksaw and
drive out from the centre to either end.
I CRANKCASE REASSEI}fBLY
Heat drive side crankcase to boiling water temperature and, block up
a few inches from bench top. InStall the crankcase seal gland bush followed
by the diaphragm type spring with convex side down, bearing against
bushing shoulder. The crankshaft assembly should now be entered into
crankcase and pushed down fully. Note-ff crankcase has been heated
to the extent that ball bearing's are very free fit in crankcase, a slight
pressure should be maintained on crankshaft end until crankcase eools
sufficiently to grip
bearing outer races, to ensure that races are fully
entered into left crankcase. This crankcase should be aJlowed to cool and
then a coat of jointing compound applied to the entire joint surface.
Right crankcase should be heated and then fitted on. It should be
tapped lightly as necessary to bring joint surfaces together and then the
joint bolted up. If crankshafl has been assembled in correct alignment,
crankshaft should revolve quite freely. A slight stiffness in crankshaft
can be due to one of the ball bearings not being fully entered into crank-
case, and tapping either end of cranksha.ft may be necessary to free up.
GEABBOX A\[D CLUTCH SDRVICING

Main I)rlvo Gear Removal-The main drive g:ear, on which the rear
drive sprocket is mounted, can be removed without separating the erank-
carses. The drive gear will strike the shifter fork when tapped out of
the bearing, unless the bearing is tapped out of the case, and gear removed
with bearing. This is easily done by warming crankcase and using a
bushing L1La" or larger bore, Lt/8" ot smaller outside diameter, about L1/2"
or g'reater length, as s drift, fitting over drive gear hub after sprocket
is removed. Take care not to lose the splined steel mainshaft thrust
washer that fits on the splined end of mainshaft next to the sprocket
drive gear.
Gear Replacements-Gears should be carefully examined when dis-
mantled to determine if any replacements are required. If trouble with
slipping out of high gear has been experienced, fault will most Iikely be
found to be worn mainshaft sliding gear dogs, in which case replacement
is recommended.
Layshaft and Mainshaft Small Gear Differences-Originally, the 125
c.c. units were fitted with 15-tooth mainshaft, and 16-tooth layshaft small
gears. Subsequently, a change was made to 14-tooth mainshaft and
lS-tooth layshaft gears, g:iving' a strong'er tooth, These gears are inter-
changeable, either singly or in pairs. Note that the smaller gear is
always fitted to the mainshaft.
fnstalling Gears-Mainshaft drive gear, onto which the rear drive
sprocket fits, is first installed. If assembling with the crankcase together,
it is necessary to refit drive gear bearing onto drive gear and assemble
together. Warm case for installing bearing. Note that the felt washer
is fitted to case first-steel washer between felt and bearing, and copper
washer between bearing and gear. F it the mainshaft sllding gear onto
mainshaft. Note-This is distinguished from the Iayshaft sliding gear,
by the location of the dogs, On the mainshaft sliding gear, these are
on the gear tooth side, and the layshaft sliding gear dogs are on the
collar side of gear. A further distinction is the shape of the sliding gear
dogs which, on the mainshaft gear are chamfered to match the reeesses
in the main drive gear.
Next, secure the mainshaft splined thrust washer to the left end of
mainshaft with stiff grease, After installing this assembly in gearbox,
the layshaft together with the small gear on left end and sliding gear
fitted with dogs to right side, together with shifter fork, can be instatled,
engaging shifter fork with mainsha"ft siiding g'ear and the fork operator
in gearbox. Finally, fit the maiushaft small gear with recessed side in
first, and the layshaft large kickstarter gear with the recessed side out.
VILLIERS EINGINE SERVICING 525
Ilicksta,rter Pawl-Condition of the kickstarter pawl should be

examined and replaced if noticeably worn. At this time the fit of the
kickstarter shaft in bush should be examined and if noticeably worn,
replacement is advisable to avoid excessive oil leakage.
Kicksta,rter End Cover Fitting-Surfaces should be coated with
jointing compound. If end cover does not fit right up against g'earcase
joint when tapped lightly, remove cover and examine for cause. Note that
the kickstarter shaft hub is not butting up against the stop plate. Another
cause of cover being held off is the mainshaft left side splined washer
not being properly fitted on splines, layshaft a^nd mainshaft small gears
not fitted properly; both shouid be fitted onto sha"fts with the undercut
side of gear going on first.
Rear Drivo Sprocket Repla.cement-This part has a rather short life,
and when sprocket is noticeably worn, it is good policy to replace when
assembling, Nut should be hammered tight. Best method of securing if
engine is installed in frame, is to fit rear chain, engage high gear and
apply rear brake, otherwise sprocket can be wedged ag'ainst gearcase
with a piece of wood. After tightened, Iock by punching nut into hub
splines.
Clutch and Prirnarry Drivo Assembly-After fitting inner chaincase,
before fitting clutch hub note that the screw at the top that seeures
inner chaincase to gearcase, is fitted and securely tightened. Note that
mainshaft clutch hub key is fitted. Hammer-tighten clutch hub nut and
.centre-punch lock to.shaft threads.
Clutch Sprocket Corks-Original width is s/e", and when worn down
to 6As" or where there is evidence of clutch sprocket beari4g retainers
rubbing on steel clutch plates, new corks should be fitted or repiacement
clutch sprocket installed. When new corks are instailed, note that they
should be a,tight fit and sanded down to exactly 3/s" width.
Primary Chain-No adjustment is provided, and when slack midway
between sprocket exceeds 1", replacement is recommended.
Chain should be fitted over engine and clutch sprockets, bnd this
assembly installed, noting that crankshaft key is in position. Note that
clutch pushrod with mushroom end is installed before fitting outer clutch
plate and clutch springs. Tighten clutch spring screws up fully. Ilammer-
tighten engine sprocket nut.
(c) 125 c.c. (10D) anal 200 c.c. (68) Units

1949 and Later Single Exhaust Port llzpes
These units differ from the earlier 725 c.c. type unit in that the
gearbox is a complete separate unit attached to the rear of the crank-
case, enabling crankcase servicing to be undertaken without dismantling
gearbox. Further distinguishing features are the foot gearchange and
singie exhaust port, instead of the hand chang'e and double exhaust
previously used.
CRANKCASE SERVICING
lf crankcase dismantling is to be undertaken, it will generally be
found more convenient to dismantle the primary drive and remove flywheel
before removing crankease from frame for completion of the remainder
of the dismantling on the bench. Proceed as follows:
526 VILLIERS TWO.STROKE ENGINES
Primary Drlve Dismantling and Gearbox Removal-Remove primary

drive outer cover and engine sprocket nut' To secure for removal, high
gear can be engaged and rear brake applied, while a few hammer blows
are applied to wrench handle, or a wrench can be applieil to the flywheel
nut to hold shaft. Next, remove clutch spring screws, followed by clutch
plates. Engine sprocket is a straight fit on driveshaft, and can usually
be removed without puller. If not, an ordinary type gear or sprocket
puller can be used.
Mainshaft is best held for clutch hub nut removal by engaging high
gear and applying rear brake. A few hammer blows to wrench handle
will usually undo nut. If the unit is already removed from frame, the
final drive sprocket can be blocked by driving a wedge of wood between
sprocket and gearcase. Clutch hub is a spline fit on mainshaft, and can
be removed without puller.
After remova.l of, the primary drive assembly and clutch hub, inner
chaincase can be removed. Note-This is secured by a nut on the left
side below and to the front of g'earbox mainshaft, and also by a nut on
the right inside at the top rear, on the stud fitted through gearcase above
rear drive sprocket,
Gearbox can now be removed from crankcase, by removing the three
nuts at rear, and one nut at lower front. If gearbox is stuck to crankcase,
it ean be freed by a few light blows with soft hammer'
Gear Inspection-The condition of gears, dogs and splines can
easily be inspected via the opening in the front of gearbox when removed.
Unless need for dismantling is indicated by loose bearings, slipping out of
gear trouble, or other fault, gearbox is best not disturbed.
CRANKCASE DISMANTLING
Flywheel Removal-If flywheel has not been removed while eng'ine is
in frame, and flyi;vheel cannot be held sufficiently to uldo nut, remove
cylinder block and locate bottom of piston skirt on rear crankcase surface.
This will prevent crankshaft from turning. {Jse a good fitting socket on
flylvheel nut, and strike wrench a few hammer blows. Note-After fly-
wheel nut has been undone a turn or so, it will tighten up again for the
withdrawal operation, and a few hammer blows again wiII be required'
Magneto Armaturo Pla"te-It is not necessary to remove the magneto
backplate unless it is desired to dismantle magneto coils, etc. To avoid
damage to magneto coils during servicing operations on crankease, magneto
cover can be refitted after flywheel is removed,
Crankcaso Dismantling-When magneto baekplate is not being
removed, it is most convenient to remove nuts on the left side of crankcase
studs.
Separating Crankcases-Crankcase should be heated. This is most
conveniently done by placing over an electric hotplate or partly submerging
in boiling water. If a torch is used, avoid exposing magneto coils to direct
heat. To separate crankcases, lower crankcase assembly quickly to bench
top from a height of about 6", striking drive end on bench. This will
remove the drive side crankcase, leaving drive side ball bearings on
erankshaft. The crankshaft, together with right side ball bearing can
be removed from right crankcase by tapping on shaft end, using soft
hammer.
VILLIERS EIVGINE SERVICING 527
m.216
126 O.C. (10D) \AND 200 O.C. (08) ENGINE PABTS IAYOUT
The parts layout shown aboye is comEon to both 125 e.c. and 200 c.c. models since 1949.
Minor differences exist in the crankshaft compression sea-ls, €arly models using the shoultlered
bush with diaphragm spring (25 and 24) in both crankcases. A rubber type seal was next
introduced for the dght side (1O) and subsequently used on the drlve siale as well.
When replaclng piston on the 1949 and later I'25 c.c. note the 1948 and earller piston
must not be used, although of identical dimensions, ring stop pegs are alifferentty located,
The later type piston can howeyer be used in the earlier motors,
528 VILLIERS TWO.STB,OKE ENGINES
Crailkcaso Compression Seals-Note-on the early type motors, a

shouldered bronze bush type together with a diaphragm spring is used as
a compression seal at the outer end o,f each crankcase. Subsequently, a
spring-loaded rubber type compression seal was used on the right si.de
crankshaft, and on the latest models, this tlpe of oil seal is used on both
sides. The early type shouldered bushing type oil seal and diaphragm
spring are a loose fit in cases and they will drop out when crankshaft
beari4gs are removed.
CR,ANI(CASE REPLACEMENTS
Crankshaft Ball Bearings-If there is noticeable up and down play
in the baII bearings, or if there is notieeable roughness after these have
been cleaned and oiled, replacement is advisable. Ball bearings are a tight,
fit on crankshaft halves, and can be removed with a gear puller or driven
off with a hammer and drift.
Fitting new bearings to crankshaft ha"lves is best done before the
crankshaft is assembled, when the crankshaft halves can be conveniently
placed on bench with shaft end up and bearings driven on with a tube
spacer, applying pressure on inner races only. Note that a spacer is fitted
between the two drive side bearings.
Crankshaft Disma,ntling-Crankshaft halves are pressed onto cr.ankpin
and are best removed by use of a puller on connecting rod flange as shown
in III. 217.
Oversizo Crankpins-.001" oversize crankpins are supplied to com-
pensate for any "stretch" that occurs in the crankpin holes in the crank-
shaft halves w'hen the original pin is removed, and to maintain tightness
of fit. Note-When a, new connecting rod is being fitted with a .001"
oversize pin, a rod marked .001" oversize likewise will be required. It is
not essential to use a new rod with the oversize crankpin. In some instances
it will be found possible to use the old rod honing slightly to obtain the
desired free fit.
rrl.2l?
I, TI-IERS CR,A.\KSE{['T DIS}IANTLING
Villiers crankshafts ean be dismantled by
pulling off crankshaft half from crankpiu
by use of a gear puiler as shown.
Gear puller jarvs s'ill grip on rod big enal
flange, Locating gear puller jaws in vice
as sholvn wili prevent spreading md
slipping off.
This method can be used on aU Villiers
unit model crankshafts. After one crank-
shaft half is removed from pin, pin cm
easily be driven out of other hatf-
The close-up view below of the putler jaws
shows the correct positloning on the con-rod
flange.
VILLIERS EINGI}IE SERVICING 529
Con-rod Bearing Bollers-26 Y+"x1/+" steel rollers are used on the

200 c.c. unit and g 1/nt*7/2" bronze rollers fitted alternately between 12
Y+"x7/+" steel rollers, are used on the 725 c.e. Attempting to fit oversize
rollers is not recommended due to the insufficient circumference bearing
roller clearance that is present.
Crankshaft Reassernbly-Crankpin shoutd be first pressed into one
crankshaft half in vice so that end is flush with outside of crankshaft
cheek. Coat the crankpin bearing. surface with stiff grease and Iocate
rollers in position. Slip on connecting rod. Wipe any grease frorn end
of crankpin, that fits into other crankshaft half. Wipe crankpin hole clean
and dry. Locate in approximate alignment and press together in vice.
Note-Approximately .010" con-rod side clearance should be provided, and
it is good policy to loeate a .010" thickness g.aug.e on eitherside of crank-
pin between con-rod and crank cheek when pressing together, to avoid
pressing on too far.
Crankshaft alignment can easily be adjusted by holding one crankshaft
half, and striking the other countezweight on either side as necessary.
Alignment should be checked in jig or between lathe centres.
Crankpln End Plugs-After alignment ha,s been adjusted as accurately
as possible, tapered end plugs should be fitted ihto the ends of the hollow
crankpin and the assembly placed endways in vice and vice tightened until
plugs are approximately flush with crankpia ends. These end plugs do
not come with the crankpin, ahd when ordering big-end parts, they should
be specified. The old plugs can be removed from the original crankpin
with some difficuity. Best procedure is to grind through the hardness in
the centre of old crankpin, saw through with hacksiw, then drive out
through outer ends of crankpin. The purpose of these end plugs is to expand
the crankpin ends after correct alignment has been obtained, to reduie
possibility of crankshafts shifting on crankpin and misalignment developing
in service.
Crankshaft Oil Seal B,eplacements-Oil seal replacements are seldorn
required. Normally, it is satisfactory to use the original again when
reassembling. On the later type rubber spring-loaded oil seals, there
should be just a trace of drqg on crankshaft. In cases where operation
has been carried on for a period with exceedingly loose mainshaft biarings,
replacement may be advisable.
When fitting the drive side rubber type oil seal, note it should be
fitted in just flush with the outside of cranl<case. The spring-Ioaded side
of oil seal should face in towards crankshaft centre on both sides.
Crankcase Eeassembly-Heat drive side crankcase to boiling water
temperature. Block up a few inches above bench top. If the bronZe bush
type oil seal is used, install the shouldered bush first, followed by
diaphragm spri-ng with the convex side down, bearing against bush
shoulder. The crankshaft with ball bearings fitted, should now be entered
into drive case. rf case has been heated sufficienily that bearing races
slip in very easily, hold down on end of crankshaft for a minute or so,
until crankcase cools sufficiently to grip races while fully entered. The
drive side of the crankcase should now be allowed to cool, and the right
,side crankcase should be heated. Apply jointing. compouhd to the left
crankcase joint surface after it has cooled. when right case is heated,
:slip it on, tap and note that joints come rig'ht together before boltiag up.
After crankcase joint is bolted up, note that crankshaft revolves

freely. Stiffness may be due to slight misaligrment of shaft. This can
sometimes be corrected by tapping ends of crankshaft throws through
cylinder opening. Crankshaft bearings not entered sufficiently far into
crankcase, is another possible cause, and slight rapping of either end
of crankshaft will sometimes free up this condition. If stiffness persists,
trouble may be lack of end clearance, as a result of crankshaft being
assembled with too much connecting rod side play. This can be easily
cheeked. Clearance shouid be between ,008"-.072",
T'ITTING GEARBOX TO CR,ANKCASE

Primary Chain Adjustment-Primary chain is of the non-adjustable
type but some adjustment of excessive slack can be effected by fitting
additional paper gaskets between the crankcase and gearbox. It is
generally possible to add gaskets up to maximum thickness of .030"-.040".
The amount of adjustment that can be effected in this way is limited
by the spacing of the holes in the inner chaincase. If primary chain
slack mid-way between centres exceeds 1" when paper gaskets have been
added of as much thickness as the inner chaincase will allow, primary
chain replacement should be made.
Refitting Gearbox and Primary Drive-When refitting gearbox, do
not overlook tightening of the bottom stud nut at the front right side in
addition to the three nuts at rear of gearbox. Before fitting the inner
chaincase, note that a gasket is fitted between crankcase and inner
chaincase. Reassembly of the primary drive is quite straightforward.
Before fitting clutch hub, note the hexagon nut with tapered face, below
and to the front of mainshaft is fitted, and the locking screw securely
tightened. Hammer-tighten clutch hub nut.
Clutch-Slip the engine and clutch sprocket on together with chain.
Hammer-tighten engine sprocket nut. Examining condition of clutch
corks before assembling clutch, new clutch sprocket corks are 3/a,, ttLick
and the separate plate corks are eAz"; if worn Y16" or more, replacement
should be made. Before fitting outer plate, note that clutch pushrod
with mushroom end is fitted. After fitting clutch springs and tightening
up spring screws, the handlebar clutch lever should be operated and
throw-off of the outer piate observed.
If the throw-off is very uneven, clutch drag may be experienced.
This is sometimes due to the mushroom end clutch pushrod being
bent or unevenness in clutch spring pressure. If the 1atter is found
to be the fault, trouble can be relieved by marking the springs where
the clutch plate throws off the most, and fitting one or two 14 mm.
spark plug washers under these springs to increase pressure and check-
ing the throw-off again. By adjusting in this manner it is usually
possible to obtain a^11 even thro'wroff of clutch outer plate and elimination
of clutch drag.
Gearbox Servicirrg 10D antl 6E Types
Servicing of these gearboxes is seldom required if supply of lubricant
is maintained. Items most commonly requiring replacement are the rear
drive sprocket which should be inspected whenever primary drive is
dismantled, and the kickstarter ratchet pawl No. 15, I11. 218. If the gear-
box is dismantled, refer to I1l. 218, which shows Iayout of a1l parts. ft
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should be noted that gears ca.n be inspected through the opening on froht
of gearcase, and unless some definite need for dismantling is indicated,
it is recommended that this unit tre left assembled.
Geartrox Troubles-ff slippi4g out of high gear has treen experienced,
the dogs on the mainshaft sliding gear (18) and main drive gear (19)
should be examined. These may be worn, and replacements required.
If siipping out of low gear has occurred the dogs on the layshaft siiding
gear (45) and the kickstarter gear (43) should bb examined. Slipping
out of second gear can be caused by rvorn splines on the layshatt (47),
Footchange-Note- It is not necessary normally to dismanile a.ny
of the footchange assembly, and this is best left assembied in the gearbox
end cover. If this is dismantled, it should be reassembled in gearbox end
cover before assembling gearbox. Note that footchange shaft is secured
by spring lockring that snaps in groove on outer end. To fit this lockring
it is necessary to compress the footchange ratchet spring slighily.
Gearbox End Cover Bemoval-The end cover is simply removed after
removing' kickstarter and footchange pedals by removing three screws.
Inner cover is secured by three hexagon nuts, and three screws. Irlote-
Do not attempt. to remove the screw directly at the rear of the kickstarter
shaft. This secures the kickstarter stop plate to the inner cover and
does not secure the cover to gearcase. Do not remove the large hexagon
dome nut (30). When inner eover is removed gears and shafts can be
readily withdrawn.
Main Drive Gear Bearing-Replacement should be made when over-
hauling if there is noticeable up and down slack.
Gearbox Reassembly-Reference should be made to lll. 218 before
commencing reassembly. Install main drive gear (20) with washer (21)
in the drive gear bearing. Small gear (17) should be fitted onto right
end of maiashaft, followed by sliding gear. Not+Mainsha.ft sliding gear
is distinguished from layshaft sliding gear by location of dogs, which are
on the g:ear 'side, Mainshaft dogs also have a chamfered face. tr'it gear
with dogs to left end of shaft. tr'it the splined mainshaft washer (19),
to mainshaft spline, securing with stiff grease.
Assemble layshaJt gears and shifter fork as shown in I1l. 218. Kick-
starter gear (43) need not be fitted at this stage. Enter the gear and
sha"ft assembly with shifter fork (44) engaged in both sliding g'ear g'rooves,
into gearbox and as this is slid into position, engag.e the fork ends of
the internal shifter f.ork (22) with the peg:s on sliding gear shifter fork.
Layshaft kickstarter gear (43) can now be fitted.
The kickstarter shaft and ratchet pawl assembly should be fitted
to the kickstarter cover and turned clockwise at outer end so that ratchet
pawl is depressed ag:ainst stop (12), Condition of ratchet pawl should
be examined and if appreciably worn, new pawl should be fitted.
Apply jointing compound to end cover and replace. Observe that
the slotted end of the footchange operating lever (39) eng.ag:es with the
ball end of internal shifting lever (22), as gearbox cover is tapped on.
Clutch hrshrod-Note this is made in two sections.
Layshaft a,nd Mainshaft Smarll Gears-Note--These gears, No. 1?
and No. 46, should both be fitted with the undercut side of gear onto
shaft first. The larger gear is the layshaft. On standard gearbox, main-
shaft gear has 14 teeth and Iayshaft gear 16 teeth.
VILLIERS ENGINE SERVICING uoo
(d) Separate Unit Engines

Separate unit Villiers engines were in general
use up to 1940. On
these the crankcase is made up of, two simple halves and a separate unit
type gearbox is mounted in the motorcycle frame. Most of the separate
unit engines use the deflector top type piston. These motors all used
plain bronze bushings on each side of the crankshaft. Flat top piston
type 250 c.c. units were made for a few years prior to 1940. These units
featured ball type main bearings, with plain bronae bushings for com-
pression seal.
Cylinder Boro Sizes-On the 1940 and earlier separate unit engines
these are as follows: 148 c.c.-53 mm.:2.086"; 196 c.c.-61 rnr:r.:2.401";
249 c.c.-63 mwt. :2,480".
Crankcase Dismantling-This is quite straightforward. On the flat
top piston type engines with ball l:earings, cases should be heated to
release ball bearing outer races. After securing bolts are removed,
lowering crankshaft end to bench top fairly quickly will separate cases
easily.
Crankcaso Bushings-Replacement should be made when worn to
give .005" or more straight up and down clearance. Crankcase should be
heated to at least boiling water temperature for removal and refitting
bushings. Greater heating, about 350'-400' X'. is advisable if convenient
as it permits much easier removal and installation. III. 220 shows method
of installing, Villiers bushing's are of, a special hard bronze. This is very
brittle and care must be taken when installing to avoid flange breakage.
A 1" diameter drift should be used for installing. Avoid applying pressure
near outside of bushing flange. No reaming is necessary after insertion
if new standard bushings are used with standard shafts. A minimum
of .002" shaft clearance should be present,
Crankshaft Mainshafts-If wear on mainshaft exceeds .003,,, giving
in excess of .005" clearance in bushings, shaft should be replaced. If
replacements are not available, they can be reground .005',-,010,, undersize,
and special undersize bushings machined up (Vi1liers bushings are only
available in standard bore). Bushing.s can be machined up from phophor-
bronze bearing stock. Original bushings should be duplicated for length,
width of flange, and oil gtooves. Outside diameter should be 1.004,,-1.005,,.
Unless it is intended to ream bushings after insertion, they should be
bored to give .004" shaft clearance as there wilt be about .002,; contraction
after insertion.
Bushings Looso in crankcase-crankshafts that have been installed
and assembled out of line are the usual cause o,f this trouble. euite often
in such eases it will be found that the looseness of bushings is mainly
due to wear on the outside of bushing, and not so much due to wear in
the crankcase. In such cases, installing new bushings may suffice. If
they do not appear quite tight enough, it is advisable to lock with two
set screws as follows:
Drill two $hz" }role through bushing flange, centres al)ovt 7ib,-sA6t,
from bore, 1" deep. Aap r4r" thread; screw in aVtz,, screw tight, chisel
off flush with bushing flange and centre-punch to lock.
Oversize Outside Dia,meter Bushings-If new bushings are too loose
in the erankcase, as an alternative to replacing the cases, which may not
be available, Epecial oversize bushings should be machj.ned up. F ollowing
the steps detailed on page 534, will ensure a first-class job.
VILLIERS TWO.STROKE: E}NGINEIS
1. Ream out bushing holes .in crankcase, with crankcases bolted

together, to ensure good alignment to, say, 1.010,, using a pilot reamer
or hone on Sunnen bushing grinder.
2. Machine bushings to duplicate original, but with outside diameter
L.014", Bore one bushing to fit 6haft with,005', clearance. Leave other
bushings undersize bore, say .030"-.040" undersize.
3, Insert bushi4g with larger bore into crankcase and check clearance
on shaft. Ream slightly if necessary, to provide .002,, clearance.
4. fnsert undersize bore bushing in other crankcase half. Bolt crank-
cases together. Turn down a'spigot in lathe so that the large bore bushing
can be just pushed on. Now bore out the other bushing in the lathe by
turning the complete crankcase assembly, to provide .002,, sha"ft clearance.
This will ensure perfect alignment of the crankcase bushing bores.
No difficulty will be experienced in obtaining free running of crank-
shafts after making oversize bushing replacements, if the above procedure
is followed. Do not overlook drilling of oil feed holes when making up
bushings. Some can, of course, be drilled through after insertion if the,
were omitted in machining.
"Pegged" Bushings-The crankshaft bushings on all Villiers eng:ines
with the separate automatic oiling system are ,,pegged,, to ensure correct
location on insertion, and to avoid any possibility of them turning, which
would affect the correct functioning of, the oiling system. Such bushings
should only be replaced with the comect type of Villiers bushing. It is
rather difficult to machine out bushings of this tlpe and match the
original oil "Porting" exactly. rf original type bushings cannot be obtained
and it is not possible to duplicate the machining on this type of bushing,
a plain type of bushing can be used, converting to ,,petroil,, lubrication.
Crankc,ase Ba,ll Bearings-25O c.c. FIat Top piston Models-Replace-
ments should be made when noticeable up and down play has developed.
Drner races are a tight fit on shafts, and bearings are best removed s'ith a
sprocket or g:ear puller. When reassembling, new bearings should be
fitted onto crankshafts first, drifting on with a tube spacer fitted against
inner race. A plain bronze bush is used as a compression seaI, and
replacement should be made when shaft clearance exceeds .00b,,. Crank-
case should bd heated for reassembly to allow easy entry of the ball bearing
outer races.
crankcase Gaskets-A gasket between the crankcase joints is not
essential. rt was used on original assembly of separate engine units. rf
the original type gasket is not available, one can be made up from about
-no
'010" material (heavy brown wrapping paper wilt do). rf gasket is
used, a jointing compound should be used on the joints, and it s-hould be
ascertained that there is slight crankshaft end clearance. on the automatic
oiling types, make sure that oil hores are not obstructed, and if gasket
is being made, that holes are provided to register with passageways'.
crankshaft servicing-The separate unit engines have a shouldered
type.crankpin with tapered ends, To dismanile, clamp one countervreight
in vice; undo one nut and hit ends of other count6rr,veight alternately
with hammer, which will-free it from taper, ,separation is assisted by
using a wedge. This should be driven between the crankshaft halves as
close to the crankpin as possible. A puller can be used; see I\.2{7.
tl,Ha
lfl ffi
S' DovrN BoLTs
g H'-H{iV1>.''no-o,lc
lfl ilH
s@o
e
CYLINDER HEAD
.CYLINDER
E.XHAUSI
POqT5 INLET PORT
TRANSFER PAsSAT€
+ plsroN
ptN
END PAD
SMALL END
CONN€CTIN6 ROD
oNE l-tALF OF
CFANKSHAFT
ROLLER BIG END
ONE HALF OF CRANKCASE
By courtesy of "Motorcycllnp"
Itl. 219
VII.LIER,S TWO-STROI(E ENGINE PARTS (1940 AND EARLIER SEPABATE TINITS)

?his "Exploded" view of a Villiers 196 c.c. 2-port exhaust model of the standard deflector
piston design shows the vadous parts ln relation to tleir position in the assembly. Cyllnder
base anal crankcase joint sudace gasket are not shown. Piston pin end pads are illustrated
removed f rom pin, these are originally pressed lnto pin ud are not normally removeble.
Where worn or lmsened piston pin end pads are encountereal, complete piston pin should be
replaced. It ls essential that the defleetor top piston be installed E shown with long
sloping sido faclng front towards exhaust and straight side of deflector facing rear inlet
transfer port.
Big-end Replacements-ff there has been considerable play in the

big-end, replacement of crankpin, rollers and connecting rod will likely
be necessary.
Rollers-Alternate bronze and steel rollers are g'enerally used. The
steel rollers carry the load and the bronze rollers which are slightly
undersize and hollow, are spacers and oil carriers. The standard steel
rollers on the separate unit motors measure t/4" diemetet and .492" long,
and are square shouldered. Villiers do not supply oversize rollers, and
if other oversize rollers are procured and fitted, it is important to note
that length is not in excess of .492", and to check for circumference
clearance between rollers. When the rod is fitted onto rollers and crankpin,
it should be pos'sible to insert a .010" or .072" feeler, such as the magneto
point gauge between two rollers. A total of this amount of rol1er clearance
is necessary. The only way this clearance can be provided when oversize
rollers are used, is to alternate the new oversize rollers, between old worn
rollers that are sufficiently undersize. Lack of clearance between rollers
will cause excessive roller friction, and possibly early bearing failure.
use of oversize rollers may in some instances enable use of old connecting
rod by honing out.
Reassembling the Crankshaft-The crankpin should be pressed fully
into one crankshaft half and nut tightened to about 60 ft. lbs. torque.
Crankpin bearing surface should be smeared with thick g'rease, and rollers
set in position, and con-rod fitted, Note that tapered end of crankpin
and hole in crankshaft are clean and dry. Fit on crankshaft and press
together in approximate alignment. Tighten up crankpin nul moderiteiy
and tap counterweights as necessary to provide alignment of crankshafts;
then fully tighten crankpin nut. rf shaft centres are in good condition,
aiignment is most conveniently checked between lathe centres, if a special
centreless aligning jig is not available.
Ill.220
CR,ANITCASE BCSHI}'G D{STAI,LING

Crankcases should b9 heated for both remoyal
and refitting of bushings. Crankcase should
be supported on a tube spacer or old bushing
of suitable dimensions as shown. A 1,,dia-
meter drift is suitable for driving in. Avoid
applying pressure near outside of bushing
fiange. The separate unit Villiers engines
bushings are made of a hard britile bronze
and flanges are easily broken off b] careless
installation.
Even after crankpin nuts are fully tightened, it is usually possible

to shift the crankshafts on pin slightly by tapping ends of counterweights,
to correct alignment. ff no aligning equipment is available, crankcase
can be assembled with crankshafts in approximate alignment and align-
ment adjusted by tapping ends of crank throws through crankcase
cylinder opening, with a hammer and punch, until free running is obtained.
(e) 1F and 2F. 98 c.c. Units

2F Units-This type of eng:ine is used on 1949 and later model
autocycle and powerbike machines. It replaces the Junior Deluxe engine
used in 1948 and earlier models, dealt with in greater detail in the next
sub section.
This unit differs from the earlier type in that a standard tgre crank-
shaft with ball bearing at both ends, is used. The engine is fitted within
frame, with cylinder in an inclined position, as compared to the horizontal
position with engine suspended below frame on the earlier type.
Piston Pin in Bushing-A smaller diameter piston pin than fitted
previously, is used and fit in piston and rod bushing should always be
checked when top overhaul is undertaken.
Crankshaft Ma,in Bearings-Single ball bearings support crankshaft
on each side. As the flpuheel mounted on the end of crankshaft, overhangs
a considerable distahce from the supporting ball bearing, it is not un-
common for appreciable up and down clearance to be noted in the
flSnvheel, even when bearings are in fairly sound condition. Perceptible
up and down play in flpvheel cah be disrqgarded, but when it is posisble
to lift flywheel up and down to the extent of .007"-.008", dismantling and
bearing replaeement should be undertaken. At the same time the crank-
shaft bushing in the chain cover should be replaced. Note-A shouldered
compression seal bush is fitted into the right side crankcase. When
assembling, this must be fitted first, followed by the diaphragm spring
with the convex side down pressing against bush shoulder. Crankcases
should be heated for dismantling and reassembling.
Clutch and Primary Drive-The same type of clutch and primary
drive as used on the earlier "Junior Deluxe" powerbike engine, as covered
in the next section, is used. The "1"' type units, however, have a reversal
of pafts layout as the clutch drive is from right crankshaft instead of
left shaft. Another difference is the use of a 2-piece clutch rod without
steel ball, in place of the 3-piece rod and ball type previously used.
Exeept for these differences, clutch layout is generaliy as shown in
I.l1. 227.
Crankshaft Serviciqg-Crankshaft halves are pressed onto crankpin.

tr'or big-end servicing they can be separated as Ill. 217. The crankshaft
servicing details listed in sub section (c) are applicable. A solid crankpin
without end plugs is used.
1F Unit with Z-Speerl Gea.r-This unit is used in certain lightr,veight
motorcycles such as the 98 c.c. X'eatherweight James. Crankcase assembly
is identical to the 2F unit described above, except for inclusion of the
2-speed g:ear unit. Gears operate by handlebar lcver with cable control.
Servicing details listed above on the 2I' type unit apply.
538 VILLIERS TWO-STROI<EI ENGINES
(f) Junior I)eluxe 98 c.c. Powerbike Engine (1948 and Earlier)

Top Overhaul-Top overhaul procedure is quite straightforward, and
reference should be made to sub-section (a) for general notes on this
subject. Attention is drawn especially to the following points:
Cylinder Head-Note that cylinder head is refitted correctly. There
is a passageway from the cylinder head eompression release valve down
through cylinder block to exhaust port. Head must be fitted so that
compression release exhaust passag'eway lines up with hole in block.
Head is in correct position when spark plug is up.
Spark Plug-Note-A long reach 18 mm. spark plug is used.
Ignition Tilrrrin$-7/4t' advance on piston movement is correct. This
is considerably more advance than used on the iater type units.
Con-rod Small-end Bushing-A floating type bushing is used that
is a free fit, in con-rod small-end; bushing should be replaeed when there
is .002" or more clearance in con-rod, or when pin clearance in bushing
exceeds .002".
Inlet Mani.fold Gasket-It is advisable to replace the combined inlet
manifold and exhaust manifold gasket when assembling. Inlet manifold
flange nuts should be tightened securely,
Carburetor Air Intake Cap and Gauze-Due to the carburetor air
intake being forward on this modei, it is essentiai that carburetor air
intake eap be fitted. If this is lost, a shield should be fitted in front of
the air intake, otherwise the carburetor mixture will be upset. Under
dusty operating conditions, very rapid wear is experienced on these
motors, due to the large amount of dirt which is drawn in through the
carburetor air intake, resulting from the low forward position of intake.
When operating this type of machine under dusty conditions, an effective
aircleaner should be fitted.
CRANKCASE SERVICING
Removal of Crankca,se from Frame-E irst remove clutch lever bracket.

The clutch rod assembly should then be removed to avoid possibility of
loss of parts. These wiII drop out if machine is leaned to the left. Note
there are three lengths of clutch rod, and one ball in the pushrod
assembly. See I11. 221. Slackening the flpuheel nut and final drive sprocket
nuts, will be found most easily done before crankcase is removed from
frame. The rear brake can be applied to prevent shafts from turning.
Note-After flywheel nut is undone a turn or two, pressure will come
on nut again due to the withdrawal shoulder coming into operation. Box
wrench handle should then be given a few sharp biows with hammer,
which will remove fiywheel from taper. Nut can be unscrewed completely,
and flywheel withdrawn. If flpuheel does not come off taper after a few
sharp blows have been applied to wrench handle, strike the end of flywheel
nut a sharp biow with hammer to jar the flylvheel off taper.
Removal of crankcase from frame can be completed by disconnecting
exhaust pipe, rear chain, lighting wire from fl;rwheel backplate and
undoing the two bolts securing crankcase to frame.
Ir. 221
VILLIEITS 98 c.e. JUNIOR DELUXE "POWEBBIKE" ENGINE SECTIONEI)

Thes€ two sectioned views of the Viuiers En8rne and Cluteh Unit reveal most details of
€onstruction and assemllly. The clutch parts are numbered in order of assembly.
Before proceeding with the dismantling, it is advisable to thoroughly

clean the crankcase assembly exterior with solvent, taking care that the
mag:neto coils and condenser are not submerged during this operation.
CR,ANI(CASE DISMANTLING
1. Frywheel Backplate-X'iywheel backplate can be removed if neees-
sary by unscrewing the four screws securing to crankcase. Removal of
armature plate is normally only undertaken when there is need to replace
ignition or lighting coils. If securing screws are very tight, place a g'ood
fitting screwdriver in the slot in each screw, and strike a sharp blow on
end with hammer.
2, Remove the rear drive sprocket. This is on a straight shaft with

key. No puller is required.
3. Chaincase Removal-Remove all nuts securing chaincase. Note
there are two "ears" or aluminum lu,gs; one at the top and the other
at the lower rear of this case. These can be tapped lightly to assist the
separation of cases' If cases do not separate readily, pour boiiing water
oJer the case. This will expand sufficiently so that case can be removed
leaving outer erankshaft bearing on shaft.
4.Clutchassemblyandprimarydrivearenowaccessible.Atthis
stage, either the outei crankshaft bearing or the left side clutch bearing
tu replaced, and if no other replacements are necessary, no further
"urr"
dismanttirfu need be done. Ilowever, to dismantle further, proceed as
follows:
5. Slacken crankshaft sprocket securing' nut. Eirst fold over lock-
washer; clamp end of crankihaft in vice, first wrapping shaft with street
*"i"f o" shim- stock to protect from vice jaw damage. If vice is tightened
verysecurely,thisnutcaneasilybeslackened.Ifasuitablewrenchis
nof avaitabte, use a punch and hammer. After this nut is removed, if the
chain has a connecting iink, it can be removed, chain disconnected,
and eng.ine sprocket taken off. Remove key in crankshaft before tapping
out shift, a" ttris will not clear the crankcase inside race. If an endless
chain is fitted, dismantling clutch wi]l be necessary before crankshaft can
be removed. In this case, proceed as follows:
6. Bemoval of Endless chain-The left side clutch bearing and elutch
ouier plate can be lifted off and then the clutch sprocket can be removed
together with engine sprocket and chain. As another alternative, the
cl;tch shaft can be tapped out of the rlght side bearing using a drift,
and as soon as it is free, the clutch sprocket can be moved ahead
sufficiently to enable the chain to be lifted off. Note-After engine
sprocket is removed, eng:ine sprocket key should be lifted out u'ith a pair
of long nosed pliers before attempting to tap out crankshaft'
CR.ANI(CASE BEAE,ING R,EPLACEMENTS

After crankshaft is tapped out, it will be obserr'ed that the large
crankshaft bearing is secured by a plate with three scre"\'s. Rerrroval of
th"=u enalies bearing to be taken out. If bearing is a tight fit
".."*" heat with boiling water and bearing \x/ill dl'op out. Replace-
in crankcase,
ment of this bearing is recommended on all overhauls, if there is any
sign of wear or roug:hness. Before fitting new bearing, note that the
crLnkease sealing gland bronze bushing fits into the case first. tr'it the
diaphragm spring with the convex side down towards bush, so that ianer
eage oi spring bears against bush shoulder. Next fit the bali bearing
into case, foliowed by plate and three securing: screws. Tighten the three
screws securely. These should be locked by Centre-punching of retaining
plate into screw slots.
The outside crankshaft ball bearing located in the outer chaincase
should be examined and replaced if there is noticeable play or roughness.
cranhshaft chaincase Bush-This should not be overl00ked. If clear-
ance between shaft and bushing is in excess of .004", replacement should
be made. rf the original villiers bushing is used, reaming' or honing after
replacing should noa 5e necessary. .001"-.002" shaft clearance shouid be
prbviAedl and bushing reamed or honed as necessary to provide this.
VILLIERS ENGINE SERVICING 54L
Con-rod Big-end and Crankshaft Eeplacements-On this type of

motor it is possible to operate with a big-end clearance up to .00S,,. When
clearance exeeeds this amount, best policy is to replace the crankshaft
and the connecting rod assembly. separate parts for servicing the con-rod
big-end bearing are not generally available. The crankpin is a press fit
in the crankshaft half, and if an attempt is made to seivice the existing
crankshaft, a .001" oversize pin should be obtained if possible to ensure
a tight fit on assembly.
3,4e" diameter rollers are used on this big-end. ff servicing with
oversize replacement rollers, it should be noted that the roller Jirc,.r.m-
ference clearance wiII be taken up unless undersize rollers are fitted
alternately between the oversize rollers. A total. circumference roller
clearance of .010" is desirable. rjsed rollers can be used as alternate
spacers between new oversize rollers. The average owner is much better
advised, however, to obtain a complete new assembly rather than attempt
to repair this particular crankshaft.
CLUTCII SER,VICING
Clutch Pla,te and Clutch Sprocket Corks-New corks are tlnick.
If worn down to 1/4t' ot less, the clutch sprocket and plate 'Ae,,
shor.rld be
replaced, or new cork inserts fitted. when new inserts are fitted, they
shouid be carefully sanded down to exacily ;Aa,, ttlldt]n. Corks must be a
snug fit in sprocket and plate. Replacements should also be made if
corks are noticeably burned from excessive slipping.
Clutch Spring Disrnantling-Dismantling of the clutch spring is not
normally necessary. Reference should be made to flL 22L showing cross
section of the eng'ine unit for details of the clutch construction. The
clutch spring is held in compression by the flat cotter in the clutch shaJt
s1ot. Spring can be removed by pressi4g dorn'n on plate No. 4 when cotter
ean be pulled out and the plate and spring then lifted off shaft. When
refitting note that the order of a,ssembly is No. 1-short spring sieeve;
No. 2-the clutch spring; No. S-Iong sleeve; No. 4-outer clutch plate;
No. 5-the flat cotter which can be fitted after pressing down on the
Dlate compressing the spring. The ears on this cotter must be upwards,
that is, towards the threaded end of the shaft.
Clutch Chain-This has a very long life. No adjustment is provided,
and if wear has occurred to the extent that chain rubs on case,- replace-
ment of chain should be made.
Clutch Spring Cornpression and .A,ssemtrly-It is advisable to complete
clutch assembly, and install the clutch assembly with the clutch spring
in a compressed state, as this enable.s easiest refitting of the outer chain_
case. Proceed as follows, commencing with the outer clutch plate and
flat cotter already fitted, as listed above:
1. I'it corked clutch plate No. 6 with 1ugs up.
2. Ciutch steel plate No. 7 with the dish downwards.
3. Clutch sprocket No. 8.
4. Clutch outer plate No. 9.
5. Now fit in the regular clutch pushrod assembly or a B,,x%o,, steel
rod, into clutch shaft. Slip over this the clutch shaft leit side ball bearing.
6. tr'it over shaft end an old bushing or a piece of tube spacer with;
bore size of 5/2"-7+" with an outside diameter of under 1,,. Length of this
spacer should be about 1%0".
542 VILLIE}RS TWO-STROKE ENGINES
7. E it on a 7/z'tx20-thtead nut on the end of clutch rod. Compress

the clutch assembly in vice; one jaw bearing on the end of the %0" rod,
and the other on the end of the clutch shaft. The clutch spring can easily
be compressed, enabling 11'rs r/r'tx20-thread nut to be tightened up against
the spacer bushing. This will hold the clutch spring in a compressed state.
Assembly can now be removed from vice.
CRANKCASE R,EASSEMBLY
1. If an endless chain is used, fit the chain around the clutch sprocket
and engine sprocket, then slide the engine sprocket onto crankshaft, while
clutch shaft is entered in the clutch housing at the same time, Note the
engine sprocket key is first fitted in keyway, and sprocket registers with
the shaft key when installing. E latten out the sprocket lochwasher and
fit lockwasher and nut. Tighten up nut. Secure crankshaft from turning,
by gripping securely in vice, protecting shaft with sheet metal. If a
suitable wrench is not available, tighten up securely with hammer and
punch, and fold over lockwasher.
2, Clutch Shaft Right Bearing-This should be flush with case surface.
E it bearing plate and ,gasket. If bearing plate is bent,hammer fIat.
Securely tighten bearing plate screws.
3. Crankcase Joint--Clean joint surfaces; carefully remove any high
spots with a file. If new gasket is not availabie, make one out ot +16l."
gasket material. The outer erankshaft bearing can either be in the chain-
case or on the shaft. Assembly is somervhat simpler if bearing is fitted
in chaincase. The clutch shaft bearing will, of course, be on the clutch
shaft.
4, Warm the chaincase to allow for easier fitting over the clutch
shaft bearing. Oil parts well, and fit on clutch chaincase cover. Tap
chainease lightly with soft hammer to make sure that it seats dow-n on
joint surface before tightenipg up joint nuts. Tighten up aII nuts evenly.
5. The tube spacer used for compressing the clutch spring, can no\rr
be removed. Now fit the sprocket key and sprocket, tighten drive sprockel
nut securely. Best method is to hammer-tighten. This is most effectively
done after crankcase is refitted to frame and rear chain instailed and
brake applied.
6. F it ri,ght side crankcase cover. Use gasket or gasket cement.
7. Fit flywheel and time with 1/4't advanee on piston. See Section 6"
"Villiers E lyuvheel Magneto."
8. X'urther assembly is just a matter of dismantling procedure in
reverse. This is covered under "Top Overhaul" sub-section (a) at the
beginning of this chapter.
9. Clutch Case Oil-l'or summer use, an S.A.E. No. 20 or No. 30
grade motor oil is suitable, and for lvinter, S.A.E. No. 10. Alternative
lubricant is S.A.E. No. 140 g:ear oil in summer and S.A.E. No. 90 in the
winter.
10. Clutch Rod Assembly-After drive sprocket nut has been securely
tightened and rear chain fitted, install the clutch pushrod assembly in
the following order:
(a) Long section
(b) Steet ball
(c) Short section rod
(d) Medium length rod
VILLIERS CARBURETORS 543
Then fit the clutch operating lever bracket, and after reconnecting
cable, adjust pushrod screw so cable has t\e"-1/st' free slack.
11. Make sure that motor mounting bolts are securely tightened.
Sectfuin 5
VILLIERS CARBUR,ETORS
The four common sizes of Villiers carburetors in current use are
listed below. Basie design of these units is much the same and has
remained practically unchanged but for minor details, for many years.
(a) The "Junior" type, fitted to g8 c.c. Powerbike models.
(b) The "Midget" type, fitted to some early 125 c.c. models.
(c) The "Lightweight" type, fitted to current 125 c.c. models and
previously 747 e.c, models.
(d) The "Mediumweight" type, currently fitted to 200 c.c. models
and previously fitted to 148, 196 and 250 engines.
' Mixture Atljushnents

fs the llfixfirro Too Rich or Too Weak ?-"tr'our-stroking" and rapid
sooting of spark plug are indications of too rich a mixture.
A weak mixture is indicated by spitting back through the carburetor
or fading out when the throttle is opened suddenly.
Before Ailjusting Mixture-Drain carburetor bowl to get rid of any
water in carburetor, by removing bottom nut. Clean out g:as feed neck
on carburetor body where gas line connects to carburetor. On early types
obstruction of screen at bottom of this neck is frequent cause of restricted
gas feed.
Check tightness of carburetor top ring nut and carburetor mounting:
clip as looseness at these points will aJlow air leakage affecting mixture.
Breaker points and spark plug should be cleaned and set to ensure
good ignition. fgnition trouble w'ill cause difficulty in obtaining a good
carburetor setting.
The Villiers Junior Carburetor 98 c.c. Iype
Mixhrre Adjustment-Mixture is i"egulated by throttle needle adjust-
ing screw located in centre on top of carburetor throttle piston. This screw
bears.on head of the spring loaded throttle needle. Turning this screw rn
(clockwise) lowers needle and weakens mixture; screwing'out (anti-clock-
wise) richens mixture. This adjustment is aceessible when carburetor top
ring nut is removed. Variation in setting should not exceed t/z t:urn of
adjusting screw at a time, followed by road test to determine setting that
gives best performance. (See Il1. 222.)
The Villiers Mirlget Carburetor Early 125 c.c. Type

Mixturo Atljustment-The standard mixture setting is with the needle
located so that point measures L*bz" from the end of the pistoh type
throttle. After some amount of use, wear in the needle jet will give a
'.richer mixture and the needle should be lowered to correet the mixture.
Note that the needle is secured by a screw in the side of throttle and wr'en
'this is slackened the needle can be moved as required. It is advisable to
make a variation of la+" at a time and try the machine on the road after
each variation to determine the results until the best mixture is obtained.
(See Iil. 222.)
MEDLE ADJU.'b,IEM
ON 'JUNIOQ' }.IODEL
STQANGLER-
NEEDLE
\[l FLOAT NEEDLE

V
By coultesy of "Motorcycling"
eq
\7\roqr
t\. 222
(vuurp)
\III&IEB,S 98 o.c. AND 125 c.o. IIODEL CAIBrRETORS

The 98 c.c. "Junior" and early 125 c.c. "Midget" model Viiliers carburetors ale of practically
identieal construction, the parts common to both are sho'xn in the above illustration. The
only differences are in the throttle valve and method of needle mixture adjustment,
"Midget" L25 c.c. type throttle is shown in the top left-hand circle. Note that nredle
adjustment is effected by prying out wire lockring from groove at lower end of throttle,
slackening needle lock screw s'hich is then accessible; move needle up for richer mixture
and down for weaker mixture as required. Note that the standard setting is needle tip
7yJ2" from bottom of throttle. After some wear in needle jet a lower setting is often
required. Move only 1/s4" at a time and road test machine after each setting to determiDe
results until best adjustment is obtained.
l{ote: That later 125 c.c. models use the larger bore lightweight type carburetor witi
needte adjustment by centre screw in top of throttle valve as shown in illustratton at top
right. Thls typo of carburetor is described on the following pag:e.
The "Junior" 98 c.c. type throttle assemtiy is shown in the top right circle. Note the ne€dle
is spring loaded anal adjustment is controlled by a set screw in top centre of throttle, bearing
on needle bead. Turning in (clockwise) gives a weaker setting, and out (anti-c1@kEise)
gives a richer setting; adjust 14 turn at a time when testinS.
Cleaning of the thimble type screen in Bas connection neck as strown in above illustration
should not be overlooked when servicing. This applies to the earlier types before banjo
type gas fitting was used.
VILLI.ERS CARBURETORS 545
Vitrliers Lightweight a;rtl Mediurnweight Ca,rburetors

Mixture Adjustrnent--This can be varied easily while the machine is
I
on the road on either of these units. There are two types of needle control:
(a) "The Single f,ever Type"-This can be identified by having only
r one control cable-the throttle control. The needle ls spring loaded and is
I
raised or lowered by "spirai threaded" rod. This screws into the centre of
the throttle and contacts the top end of the throttle needle. Screwing
down gives a weaker mixture and screwing up g'ives a richer mixture.
The tapered throttle needle is loaded with a light spring that keeps it in
contact with the adjusting spiral screw.
(b) "The Double Lever Type"-This is the type in current use on
the 200 c,c. units. There are two control cables. The control that fits
into the carburetor top piece off centre is the throttle control and the
cable fitting into the centre is the needle conrol. Usually the small handle-
bar lever that operates this control is marked "rich', and i(weak,, at the
two extremes of movement.
This functions as follows:-There is a strong spring behind the nipple
on the carburetor end of the inner cable. When this spring is compressed
I by moving the handle-bar lever to the "rich" position, the throtfle taper
needle rises by the pressure of the light spring under the mushroom top
end of this needle. When the mixture needle is moved to the
position the inner cable is extended and the strong. spring on the end of
the cable has sufficient pressure to compress the light spring under the
needle, which is lowered, giving a weaker mixture. Although the control
cabie is not directiy connected to the taper needle, by use of these two
springs the top end of the needle maintains contact with the nippte on
control cable end and the needle moves either up or down according to
movement of handle-bar lever.
Throttle Needles and Jet Centrepieces-ff a satisfactory mixture
adjustment eannot be obtained within the range provided by the needle
adjustment try fitting a needle with a different taper. Needles are num-
bered 2, 2r/2,3,3a/2,4,47/2,5,6 and 7 indicating the percent of taper, For
example a number 2 needle will provide an extremely weak mixture range
and a number 7 a very rich mixture. Genera).Iy, the best settings are
obtained with needles ranging from number 3 to number b providing the
standard jet centrepiece is fitted and is not worn to any extent.
I The wear in the jet centrepiece in which the heedle operates has a
large influence on the number of needle required. For example after about
10,000 miles of operation, on a ty'pe originally fitted with a number 5
needle, mixture may have become excessively rich due to needle jet
enlargement and ehang"ing to a number 31/z ot number 4 will compensate
for the wear and correct the mixture.
If later on the centrepiece jet is replaced it will likely be found
necessary to refit the number 5 needle, otherwise mixture may be too
weak.
Jet centrepieces are calibrated and stamped numbers 1,2, 8,4 and b.
Number 2 a.,d 3 are the most common sizes, number 2 being the standard
equipment on most models. A number 3 jet permits a greater gas flow
than a number 2. A number 4 needle gives a ,greater gas flow thna
number 3. fncreasing the number of either the needle or the jet, or both,
richensthemixture.andreducingthenumberweakens.
546 VILLIERS TWO-STROKEI ENGINES
VILLIERS CAR,BUEETORS_STANDARD SETTINGS
Engine Size and TYPe retor T]'pe | .fet N r Needle No.

98 c.c. (Power Bike) Junior 7J 2
98 c.c. (Motorcycle) Midget 8 5Yz
98 c.c. (2F Power Bike) Junior 8J 2a/z
98 c.c. (18 Motorcyele) 6/0 8 20
125 c.c. 9D Midget 8 6

125 c.c. 9D Lightweight J 3
125 c.c. 10D 3/4 .083 o
200 c.c. 6E 4/5 47/z
1948 antl earlier

Sepa,rate Unit Engines
747 c.c. Light!\reight 27/z or 3
148 and 196 c.e. Mediumweight 4 or 41/z
249 c.c. Mediumweight 5 or 5r/z
villiers compensating Tubes-Note the holiorv tubes that screrv

through the carburetor body and locate the centrepiece. (one is used on
tfre ,,Midget,, carburetor, and the current ',Ifediurn$'eight" 200 c.c. t)?e,
two on other types.) These hollow scre$'s'feed air and if they are left
out completely as often occurs, mixture r,r'iti be much too $'eak. If these
tubes arL lost and holes either plugged or solid screlvs fitted, mixlure
will be excessively rich.
Replacernents-After a considerable amount of service the parts listed
below may require rePlacement:-
1. Centrepiece and jet (needle jet)
2. Taper needle
3. Throttle assembly complete with cables
4. l'Ioat shut off needle
Gas Filter Screen-This is located in the neck of carbul'etor bod]'
where the gas line connects or on union bolt. clean this at least eYery
2000 miles. An obstruction in this small thimble scl'een may limit gas
flow just sufficiently to cause erratic running, It is usually evidenced,
however, by slowness of carburetor to "flood" u'hen tickler is depressed
for starting from cold.
Differences in Villiers Throttles, Mediumw'eight Type-Note that there
is a difference in the throttles required for the "sing'1e-1ever" and "double-
lever" type carburetor. The single lever type requires a throttle which is
easily identified by a very coarse "spiral thread" that the rod type needle
adjueter, with a similar thread, screws in to.
The double lever type carburetor with cable needle control requires
a throttle with a fine thread in the centre hole that the mixture cable
stop screws in. Make sure to get the right type of throttle when replacing.
Replacement of throttte should be made when worn to give .008" or
more ciearance in the carburetor body. A badly worn throttle rvill cause
an erratic mixture due to air leakage and may emit a noticeable "rattle"
at certain sPeeds.
I
h
VILLIERS CARBURETORS 547
Hints anrl Tips on Villiers Carburetors

1. Tighten the top ring nut and carburetor body-manifold clip very
securely to avoid air-leakage.
2. lf carburetor is loose on manifold when clip screw is tightened, fit
a suitable shim so it can be firmly tightened.
i
I
3. Dismantling-Turn the carburetor upside down before removing
float bowl. This applies to the earlier types in which the float
shut off needle is held into its guide by the float only and will
drop out when float chamber is removed in the running position.
This type of carburetor should be in an upside down position for
refitting the float shut-off needle and float bowl, this considerably
simplifies reassembling.
4. Centrepiece and Jet Removal- On the Lightweight and early
Mediumweight types it is necessary to remove the two compen-
sating screws that pass through body and screw into centrepiece
i directly above float chamber. Removal of the one compensating
screw accessible through the air intake is necessary on the Midget
and current Mediumweight types. On the Junior 98 c.c. type it is
I necessary to remove the grub screw which is located on the right
side when facing the air intake, drrectly above float chamber,
centrepiece can then be removed through top of carburetor.
t
6. Take care not to damage the throttle needle.
i 7. Make sure that the throttle needle is actually moving in response
to movement of the mixture control. The needle should move at
Teast a/a" in the range from "rich" to "weak." F ailure of needle
I
move may be due to the light spring that fits under its hea.d being
incorrecily fitted; there is a smatl end to this spring and this
should be fitted on first up against the head of the needle.
8. Overflooding from Float Ch,arnber-Usually due to dirt on shut off
needle seating, or w'orn needle seating, or worn needle. Note that
late type carburetors use a pivoted brass plate contacting the float.
The earlier type uses a float shut off needle that contacts directly
onto the float.
9. Testing Out for Correct Ca,rburetor Mixture-Before attempting to
get carburetor adjusted, first make sure that the spark plug is
clean and gap adjusted .020"-.025", breaker points clean and
adjusted .015". Timi4g should also be checked when spark plug iE
removed. (See magneto timing in next section.)
Motor should be warmed up to normal operating temperature by
running 2 or 3 minutes stationary or a mile or two on the road. Try
opening the throttle up fairly quickly at about 25 m.p.h. If the motor
hesitates considerably and spits back through the carburetor, a weak
mixture is indicated and should be enriched just sufficienily until this
condition is overcome.
Some "four stroking" (intermittent firing) .at speeds below 20 m.p.h.
is natural for two-stroke motors but if four-stroking occurs in excess of
20 m.p.h. an excessively rich mixture is indicated.
Another method of testing: mixture is to shut off the gas tap when
travelling at the speed the machine is operated at the most. Do not chang.e
the throttle setting and note carefully whether or not machine speeds up
slightly before it gets too short of ,gas and commences to slow down and
stop. If a slight speedup is noted as the gas suppiy is reduced it is an
indication that better performance wilt be obtained by weakening mixture.
If the behavior is similar with the needle adjustment in the weakest
position, try a change to a lower number needle.
Section 6
THE VILLIER,S FLYWIIEEL MAGNETO

This unit provides the ignition and also includes the generator coils
for the lighting system. The lighting coils are entirely separate from the
ignition circuit.
Breaker Points-Gap is .015" fully open. Points should be dressed
with a fine point file or emery cloth, and gap adjusted every 2000 miles'
Note that cam is at fu1l lift when adjusting points.
7947 arrd earlier type breakers have screw type point adjustment.
On this type, note the stationary breaker point block is mounted on two
plain fibre insulators, and the two securing screws have shouldered fibre
insulators next to the screw heads. The low tension wire from the coil
and the wire from the condensor fit between these shouldered washers,
and the point btock. Note-The stationary point must be insulated from
ground. ts
1948 and tater type breaker assembly is shown in Il1. 223. Stationary
point is mounted on a slotted plate' Adjustment is effected by slackening
screw and moving stationary point to give required gap and retightening
screw. Note that fibre washer must be fitted next to stationary point to
avoid grounding with the securing screw. This later type breaker assembly,
complete with breaker box and condenser cari be fitted to replace the
earlier type.
After new breaker points have been fitted, and gap adjusted, if
points do not meet fairly squarely, the breaker arm should be bent slightly,
in an effort to provide square seating'of points.
Breaker Spring-A weakened breaker point spring is a possible cause
of, limited R.P.M., and high speed misfire. Replacement of spring is a
wise precaution when magneto is being overhauled. If new spring is not
available, a weak spring can sometimes be improved by carefully stretching
to increase iength 1Ae"-7/e".
Condensor-The condenser is located at the back of the breaker point
assembly. To replace condenser, flywheel must first be removed. Breaker
point and condenser box assembly can be removed after undoing the two
hexagon nuts behind armature plate. Unscrewing the two shouldered studs :l
in the back of condenser box and disconnecting terminal, enables condenser
to be removed. Condenser trouble is usually evidehced by weak spark and
rapid burning of the breaker points.
Magneto Testing-A simple method of coil and condenser testing 1S
to revolve magneto until breaker points are open, or place a piece of
I
THE VILLIERS F'LYWHEEL MAGNETO 549
cardboard between points. Attach one terminal of a six-volt battery to

ground, and make and break contact quickly on the stationary (insulated)
breaker point, or against the coil lorv tension terminal. High tension
terminal should be held about 91# from ground. If coil is in satisfactory
eondition, spark should jump this gap readily. ff spark wiII jump only
t/8" of gap or less, a coil or condenser defect is indicated.
Ill. 223
\TIT,LIERS BREAI{EE
ASSEMBLY
1948 AND I,ATER, TYPE
\\-hen servicing points first clean
\Yith fine emery cloth or point
file and wipe clean. Revolve
f]]'wheel until points are fully
open, slacken Screw "A" and
move stationary point plate
"B" to give ,015" gap and re-
tighten screw "A". Note that
a fibre lvasher must be fitted
on screlv "A" against plate
"8" to insulate.
"C" is condenser and coil low
tension conneetion, check this
screw for tightness, Condenser
is locateal at back of breaker
bot.
Breaker Cam Wear-A surprising amount of wear sometimes takes
place on the breaker cam, particularly on the early type magnetos fitted
to the separate unit eng'ines. This causes the .'Iift,, to be reduced so that
in some instances points may not close fully when set to the .015,, fully
open gap. fn sueh cases point g:ap should be reduced to .009,,-.010,,. The
difficulty ca"rl also be temporarily overcome to some extent by bending
the breaker arm so that fibre heel is abortt a/a,, over from its original
position, and runs on a new track on the unworn section of the cam. The
"closed" area of the cam can be ground down about .015,,, with a sm.all
grinding wheel, This, however, must be very carefully done, as appreciable
alte.ration in the opening a.nd closing points will affect strengttrot spark.
rn instances of considerable cam wear, replacement of cam or com-plete
flywheel will eventually be necessary.
Flywheel Magnets-The magnets used for some years have been of
l the type that retain their magnetism sufficienily that no recharging
should normally be necessary. On the early type of 2-pole and 4-pole
I magnetos, used on 1940 and earlier equipment, magnet charging may
occasionally be required. rrnnecessary removal of the magnets from fly-
wheel is not recommended.
ff magnets are to be removed from fly'wheel for any reason, it is
advisable to mark so they can be located as originalty fitted. On some
6-pole type flJrwheels, five m4gnets only are used with a g'un metar dumrny
spacer used. This is generarly located approximately opposite the closed
portion of cam. Gun metal dummy pole shoes are used at each end of
this dummy and it should be noted that on some types with six magnets
two gun metal dummy pole shoes are used, located at ends of magrret
opposite closed portion of eam. The manufacturer,s specifications should
be referred to for fl5rwheel magnet servicing.
When magnets are being refitted, the pole shoes should be clamped
to flywheel rim, while pole shoe screws are tightened to ensure pole
contaet with fly'rvheel rim, and avoid possibility of poles striking armature.
-
"bridging" the two top terminals on the'switch; making this modification

together with changing to an 18,118 watt headlight bulb, usually relieves
trouble.
Operating With Bat$ry Removed-Rectifier should be disconnected
if
machine is to be operated rvithout battery, otherwise damage to rectifier
may result.
Section 8
VILLIERS TROIIBLE TRACING

1. Engine WiIl Not Start-Note if gas comes out of carburetor float
chamber vent hole when "tickler" is depressed; if not, trouble is likely in
gas suppty or feed. Disconnect gas line at carburetor, and if gas does
not flow steadily, trouble may be obstruction in gas line, at top end of
tap in tank, plugged air-vent hole in tank, or insufficient gas IeveI. On
some models the gas tap opening'is above the bottom of tank and the tank
will not drain completely. ff g:as flow at pipe is steady, obstruction is
likely in "neck" on carburetor body, where gas feed connects. A fine
thimble screen is used in this neck on some models, and on other models
a screen is used on the banjo fitting.
2. Engino Will Not Start-Gas Is Getting to Carburetor-Carburetor
may have been overflooded and liquid gas has accumulated in crankcase.
Try shutting off gas tap and kicking starter a number of times with
the compression release and throttle open to clear out excess gas. Remove
crankcase drain ptug in left side of crankcase; turn engine over a number
of times with this removed; replace and turn on gas. Spark plug may
have become soaked with gas and the centre electrode insulator is
"shorting" the current to "ground," preventing spark at plug points.
Remove plug. If 2-piece type, dismantle and wipe off centre electrode
insulator, reassemble, reset g'ap .020"-.025". One-piece type plug can be
dried out by air pressure. A "bridge" may have formed across plug points,
"shorting" spark. Removal of this bridge will restore spark at points.
3. Engine Will Not Sta,ri-Spark PIug and Gas Supply O.K.-Trouble
is likely in ignition. Remove spark plug wire from plug and hold about
t/att frorfl cylinder, Kick starter over as quickly as possible. ,Spark should
jump this gap easily; if not, check breaker points, elean and adjust .015"
gap. See notes under Section 6 on the Villiers I'llnvheel Magneto.
4, Engino Will Not Start-Ahove Points Checked and O.K.-Ignition
timing may have slitrryed. Remove spark plug and breaker point cover.
Turn motor over slowly by engaging high gear and turning back wheel,
or turning flywheel by hand. F ollow movement of piston with screwdriver
or piece of stiff wire. Note position of piston when breaker points just
commence to separate. fhis should be within a range of l/stt-l/att oh
1949 and later models, and a/4t'-3/s" on 1948 and earlier models, depending
on exact model. X'or timing specifications, see "Clearances and Settings,"
page 518. To retime ignition, refer to page 550.
5. Engine Runs But Stops ['requently and Restarts With Difficulty
likely cause is obstruction in gas supply. Check as items 1 and 3.
-Most
TIIE VILLIERS T'LYWHEEL MAGNETO 549
cardboard between points. Attach one terminal of a six-volt battery to

ground, and make and break contact quickty on the stationary (insulated)
breaker point, or against the coii low tension terminal. High tension
terminal should be held about %0" from ground. If coil is in satisfactory
condition, spark should jump this gap readily. ff spark will jump only
t/Btt of ga;p or less, a coil or condenser defect is indicated.
Il], 223
VII,LIEIIS BREAI(EE
ASSEMBLY
1948 AND T-ATER, TYPE
When servicing points first clean
with fine emery cloth or point
file and wipe clean. Reyolve
flywheel until points are fully
open, slacken screw "A" and
move stationary point ptate
"B" to give.015" gap and re-
tighterl screw "A". Not€ that
a fibre washer must be fitted
on screw "A" against plate
"8" to insulate.
"C" is condenser anal coil low
tension connection, check this
screw for tightness. Condenser
is located at back of breaker
box.
Breaker Cam Wear-A surprising amount of wear sometimes takes

place on the breaker cam, particularly on the early type magnetos fitted
to the separate unit engines. This causes the "lift" to be reduced so that
in some instances points may not close fully when set to the .015,, fully
open gap. fn such cases point gap should be reduced to .009,,-.010,,. The
difficulty can also be temporarily overcome to some extent by bending
the breaker arm so that fibre heel is about, r/e,, over from its original
position, and runs on a new track on the unworn section of the cam, The
"closed" area of the cam can be g'round down about .015,,, with a srnall
grinding wheel. This, however, must be very carefully done, as appreciable
alte.ration in the opening and closing points will affect strength of spark.
fn instances of considerable cam wear, replacement of cam or complete
flywheel will eventually be necessary.
Flywheel Magnets-The mag'nets used for some years have been of
the type that retain their magnetism sufficienily that no recharging
should normally be necessary. On the early type of 2-pole anO 4-pole
I magnetos, used on 1940 and earlier equipment, magnet charging may
occasionally be required. Ilnnecessary removal of the magnets from fly_
wheel is not recommended.
If magnets are to be removed from fiSnrheel for any reason, it is
advisable to mark so they can be located as originally fitted. Oh some
6-po1e type flywheels, five m4gnets only are used with a gun metal dummy
I spacer used. This is generally located approximately opposite the closed
portion of cam. Gun metal dummy pole shoes are used at each end of
this dummy and it should be noted that on some types with six magnets
two gun metal dummy pole shoes are used, located at ends of magnet i
I
opposite closed portion of eam. The manufacturer's specifications should
l
be referred to for flywheel magnet servicing.
I
When rnagnets are being refitted, the pole shoes should be clamped I
I
to flywheel rim, while pole shoe screws are tightened to ensure pole j
contact with flyuvheel rim, and avoid possibility of poles striking armature.
VILLIERS TWO.STROKE! ENGINES
Ignition CoiI Installing-If a new coil is being installed, note that the
ends of coil core are clean, and a snug: fit in the armature end plate
holes, to ensure good ground contact, and permanent location of coil.
High tension contact on coil body must register with pickup opening.
The coil end pieces should be tapped down as necessary when tightening
securing screws so they are flush with the machined aluminum part of
armature plate on which they mount, to ensure against possibility of
contact with flywheel pole shoes. A running clearance of.010" is desirable.
High Tension Pickup-Ignition trouble is sometimes due to a crack
in the bakelite pickup that fits into magneto.
Ignition Timing
The positioning of the flywheel on the crankshaft taper varies the
ignition tlmmg as cam is located on the flpvheel hub. Timing should be
clecked in relation to piston movement. The amount of advance varies
from betweei L/att to 3/s" measured on piston' E}<act timing figures for
different engines are listed on page 518.
Before removing flywheel from taper, clean and set breaker points
to .015" fulty open gap. The flylvheel nut incorporates a "withdrawal"
shoulder, and flylvheel is freed from taper by slackening nut' A good
fitting box wrench should be used and a few hammer blows applied. Note
that after nut loosens it wiU unwind a, turn or two, and then pressure
will come on nut as withdrawal shoulder comes into operation against
flywheel, then a few sharp raps should be applied to hammer to free
from taper. If flyvrheel does not free, strike end of nut a sharp blow
With hammer.
Revolve motor in running direction until piston is required amount
before top of compression stroke; e.g' LE/e+" or just under
7/+" on the 6E
200 c.c. unit. Tighten flywheel nut lightly with fingers, but not sufficient
to grip fly'wheel to shaft taper, an6 revolve fl1'lvheel in running direction
untit breaker points just commence to separate. Flylvheel can be fixed
to crankshaft iaper in this position by giving a light rap on fly'rvheel with
box wrench fitting over nut. Then tighten nut. A few sharp hammer
blows should finally be applied to box wrench handle, and timing rechecked
to ascertain it has not slipped during the tightening operation.
It should be noted that the 1949 and later Villiers engines use con-
siderably less advance than the earlier motors. This is due to combustion
chamber turbulence resulting from the new transfer-V16" port design. As an
illustration, the 1948 and earlier 125 c.c. units use advance, and the
1949 and later type ltse 152" advance.
Section 7
Current is provided by stationary coils mounted on the magneto

baekplate..,:Lighting coil trouble is quite uncommon. Two types of systems
ar:e used. Direct lightir\g, in which the AC current from the magneto coil
is. supplied direct to light,s, wa5 ,rr1ost. generally used until recent years.
VILLIERS LIGHTING SYSTEMS 551
With this system it is normal for illumination to fluctuate to a certain

extent with engine speed. With exception of early tJ4)es, fairly constant
illumination is provided at speeds above 20 m.p.h. if correct bulbs are used.
The rectifier system is now in general use except on powerbike type
units, The current from the magneto coils is converted from AC to DC
via a rectifier usually mounted under the saddle and the DC current used
for charging a standard 6-volt motorcycle battery.
Villiers Direct Lighting Bulbs-Use of the correct bulbs is of utmost
importance in obtaining g:ood results from this lighting system.
Bulbs Used With 2-Pol0 lfagneto (Pre 1940)

Headlamp Main Bulb 6 volt .5 (.75 amp.) 3 or 5 c.p. Single Contact
Pilot Bulb 4 volt .125 amp. Single Contact
Tail Lamp Bulb 6 volt .3 amp. Single Contact
Bulbs Used With 3-Pole Magneto (Junior I)eluxe Powerbike)

Headlamp Main Bulb 6 volt .1 amp. Single Contact
Pilot Buib 4 volt .3 amp. Single Contact
Tail Lamp Bulb 6 volt .3 amp. Single Contact
Bulbs Userl With 4-Pole Magneto (Pre 1940)

Headlamp Main Bulb 6 volt 1 amp. Single Contact
Pilot Bulb 4 volt .125 amp. Single Contact
Tail Lamp BuIb 6 volt .3 amp. Single Contact
Bulbs Ilserl With 6-Pole Magneto (9D anil 10D 125 c.c.
I
and 6E 200 c.c.)
Headlamp Main Bulb 6 volt 3 amp. (18,218 c.p.) Double Contact
or 6 volt 4 amp. (24/24 c.p.) Double Contact
Pilot BuIb 3.5 volt .15 amp.
Tail Lamp Bulb 6 volt .5 amp.
Speedometer Bulb 6 volt .17 amp.
t
I
Villiers Rectifier Lighting System
Battery Ground-Note-On all Villiers rectifier li,ghting systems
positive battery terminal is grounded.
Bulbs-6 volt 24x24 watt dorrble filament headlight bulb is standard.
IJnless a considerable amount of daytime driving is done, difficulty will
likely be encountered in maintaining battery charge, and a 6-vo1t 18,/18
watt bulb should be fitted instead. Standard 6-volt 3 watt (No. 63) bulbs
are used for tailight and pilot light, with stop light a 6-volt 3,/18 watt
double filament. Speedo bulb 6-volt .17 amp,
Insufficient Battery Charging-On the 1949 and early 1950 models
especially, trouble was experienced with keeping battery charged. This was
due to the switch arrangement that allowed only t/z of the coil output
to pass to the battery irr the "off" and "L" positions of the switch. The
full output only being provided on the "II" position. A full output can
be obtained in all switch positions by running a short length of wire
"bridging" the tw'o top terminals on the switch; making this modification
tqgether with changing to an 18/18 watt headlight bulb, usually relieves
trouble.
Operating With Battery Bemoved-Rectifier should be disconnected
if
machine is to be operated without battery, otherwise damag'e to reetifier
may result,
Section 8
VILLIER,S Tts,OUBLE TRACING

1. Engine Will Not Start-Note if gas comes out of carburetor fioat
chamber vent hole when "tickler" is depressed; if not, trouble is likely in
gas supply or feed. Disconnect gas line at carburetor, and if gas does
not flow steadily, trouble may be obstruction in gas line, at top end of
tap in tank, plugged air-vent hole in tank, or insufficient gas level. On
some models the gas tap opening is above the bottom of tank and the tank
will not drain completely. If gas flow at pipe is steady, obstruction is
likely in ('neck" on carburetor body, where gas feed connects. A fine
thimble screen is used in this neck on some models, and on other models
a screen is used on the banjo fitting.
2. Engino Will Not Start-Gas Is Getting to Carburetor-Carburetor
may have been overflooded and liquid gas has accumulated in crankcase.
Try shutti4g off gas tap and kicking starter a number of times with
the compression release and throttle open to clear out exeess gas. Remove
crankcase drain plug in left side of crankcase; turn engine over a number
of times with this removed; replace and turn on gas. Spark plug may
have become soaked with gas and the centre electrode insulator is
"shorting" the current to "ground," preventing spark at plug points.
Remove plug. If 2-piece type, dismantle and wipe off centre electrode
insulator, reassemble, reset gap .020"-.025". One-piece type plug can be
dried out by air pressure. A "bridge" may have formed across plug points'
"shorting'" spark. Removal of this bridge will restore spark at points'
3. Engine Will Not Sta,r.t-Spark PIug and Gas Supply O.K.-Trouble
is likely in ignition. Remove spark plug wire from plug and hold about
!/8" from cylinder. Kick starter over as quickly as possible. Spark should
jump this gap easily; if not, check breaker points, clean and adjust .015"
gap. See notes under Section 6 on the Villiers Flywheel Magneto.
4. Engino Will Not Start*Abovs Points Checked and O.K.-Ignition
timing may have slipped. Remove spark plug and breaker point cover.
Turn motor over slowly by engaging high gear and turning back wheel,
or turning flywheel by hand. F ollow movement of piston with screwdriver
or piece of stiff wire. Note position of piston when breaker points just
commence to separate. This should be within a range of 1/8tt-a/4" on
1949 and later models, and 1/4t'-3/8t'on 1948 and earlier models, depending
on exact model. For timing specifications, see "Ciearances and Settings,"
page 518. To retime ignition, refer to page 550.
5. Engine Runs But Stops Frequently and Restarts With Difficulty
likely cause is obstruction in gas supply. Check as items 1 and 3.
-Most
VILLIERS TROUBLE TRACING 553
6. Engino Runs But Lacks Power-Late ignition timing or too weak

or too rich a carburetor mixture are possible faults. Refer to "Carburetor
and Magneto," Sections 5 and 6. ff trouble develops immediately after
reassembling, piston may have been replaced incorrectly if of the separate
unit deflector top type. On these engines, the long slope must face the
exhaust port and the steep slope of deflector to the rear.
Spark plug insulator may be coated with carbon and shorting spark
when compression pressure increases, especially notable on load. Clean
and set plug.
If trouble has developed gradually, it may be due to carbon otrstruction
in the exhaust port, exhaust pipe or muffler.
7. Engine Overheats-Carburetor mixture is most likely too weak,
or ignition timing late. Unsuitable spark plug (see page 132). Excessive
carbon deposit in exhaust ports and exhaust system. (See "Top Overhaul,"
Section 4.)
8. Engino Four-strokes Excessivetry-Four-stroking at speeds over
20-25 m.p.h. is usually due to excessively rieh carburetor mixture. Some
four-stroking at lower speeds is norma"l.
9. Eng'ino Seizes-Sudden slowing down or complete locking of rear
wheel after sustained hard driving indicates piston seisure. If carburetor,
ignition timing and spark plug: are in order, insufficient piston clearance
is indicated. See "Clearances and Settings," Section 3. Too hot a running
spark plug may be the cause, or inadequate lubrication. ,See Section 1 of
this chapter.
10. Motor Knock-Piston slap resulting from excessive skirt clearance
is most usual eause. If this noise develops immediately after engine
seizing, it is likely result of piston skirt coll.apse. Excessive piston pin
clearance in rod bushing and excessive con-rod big-end clearance are other
most likely causes. Noise from these two sources usually develops grad-
ually. (Refer to Sections 3 and 4.)
11. Poor Mechanical Condition-lf satisfactory performance is not
obtained after checking the foregoing points, which cover the majority of
2-stroke troubles, it is advisable to dismantle the motor, check' the
mechanical condition, and undertake whatever reconditioniqg work may
be necessary, If cylinder and piston, for instance, are in: a badly worn
condition, no amount of adjusting or "tinkering" will provide satisfactor.5r
results. Reconditioning is covered in Section 4.
12. Starter or Clutch Sfip-A g:radual slip felt when attempting to
start, starter failing to spin motor, is usually an indication of clutch sliptr
Control should first be checked for slack and adjusting screw unsciewed
to give at least V16" cable slack. Motor speed increasing out: of proportion
to road speed increase, particularly on heavy load, further indicates clutch
slip. A very sudden and irregular slippage when cranking motor only,
indicates a worn starter ratchet pawl. Refer to g.earbox and blutch
servicing, pages 525 and 530.
554
CHAPTER EIGHTEEN
TT ARLEY.D AV IDSO}{ SER[/ ICI]YG
Note-This chapter contains servicing information applying especialiy

to lIarley-David.son machines. Ii'or information on operating, refer to
Chapter 3. An outline of average maintenance requirements as u,"ell as
useful general maintenance information, will be found in Chapter 4.
Section 1
LUBR,ICATION
Grades of Oil-F or recommended grades of oil for varying tempera-

tures, refer to Lubrication section of Chapter 4 "Maintenance," page 126.
Motor Oil Changing-On all 1936 and later O.H.V. and 1937 and later
S.V. models with dry sump lubrication, the oil tank should be drained
and refilled rvith fresh oil of the correct grade, at 1000-mile intervals.
Ilnder very dusty operating conditions, and during operation at below
freezing temperatures, oil should be changed at 500-miie intervaJs. OiI
dilution is most prevalent when machines are used on short rrrns in cold
weather. Where there is evidence of water accumulation in oil, changes
should be made as frequently as at 200-mile intervals, if necessary, to
maintain lubrication system in an efficient state.
OiI should be drained when tank is hot, immediately after operation.
It is only necessary to drain the tank. A slight additional amount of oil
can be drained from the motor by removal of crankcase drain plug at
Iower left to the left.
side and leaning machine over
1936-52 61" a,nd ?4" O.H.V. Dry Sump Oiling System-A double gear
type oil pump is employed, driven by helical gear on right side flywheel
shaft. The narrow set of gears form the feed pump and the wide set the
return. Oil is in constant circulation when motor is running, being pumped
from tank through motor, and returned back to tank as it accumulates
in crankcase. No adjustment is normally necessary when motor is in
good condition. Oil consumption should average 400-500 miles per quart.
To adjust oil supply, remove cap serew on right side of pump; turn
adjusting screw loeated underneath, out to reduce supply' and in to
increase supply. Standard setting is with end of adjusting screw' 3/8t' from
end of cap screw hole.
t-ront chain oil supply is regulated by washers under chain oiler
needle screw head. This is located on lower right side of oil pump.
Adding washers increases oil supply, removing washers decreases.
LUBRICATION 555
1937-51 Side Valve TWin Motlels Dry Suxnp Oiling System-A vane
type feed pump mounted on the outside of timing cover, driven by rear
exhaust camshaft, feeds oil from tank to motor. A return gear pump
rxounted at the bottom end of breather sleeve shaft and, driven by
crankshaft worm gear, returns oi1 from crankcase to tank. Normal oil
consumption is rtCC-500 miles per quart. No adjustment to oil supply
should be rnecessary unless piston rings, piston and cylinder wear is
allorving excessive amount of oil to w'ork up to combustion chambers.
OiI suppiy can be adjusted by oil pressure regulating valve. Remove
cap scre-lv at rear of pump, directly below oil feed line union. Turn
regulator screw in to increase pressure, and increase oil supply; turn
sirew out to recluce oii pressure and oil supply. Standard setting is oil
regulator screw 3,/t" from top of cap screrv hole.
tr'ront chain oil suppty is regulated by washers under needle valve
screw head located at rear of oil feed pipe union on pump. Rear chain
oil feed is supplied from return pump; regulating needle is located at
bottom on right side. See Il1. 224 for adjustment details.
. Oit Pump Indicator Panel Light-A diaphram type switch is attached
to oil pump making the "ground" contact for the Panel Signal Light. When
ignition switch is turned on, the right side panet (red) light, lights up,
indicating that there is no oil pressure. When the rnotor starts up, the
oil pressure developed in feed pump operates the diaphram sw{tch and
breaks the "ground" contact for the panel light. Wtren the panel liSht
gces out, it indicates the oil system is functioning.
Excessive Oil Consumption-Dry Sump System Models..-ff very
excessive oil consumption develops immediately aJter motor servicing work
that has involved removal of the breather gear in the case of O.H.V.
motors, or ieturn pump and breather gear in the case of the S.V. motors,
it is very likely due to assembling without correctly timing the breather
gear. A correctly timed crankcase breather is essential to satisfactory
operation of the oil return. Refer to I1Is. 229 ar:d 232.
125 Moilel Motor Lubrica,tion-S.A.E. No. 40 oil should be mixed with
gasoline in a ratio of.7:24 (yB pint of oil per gaJlon of gas).
Mechanical Feed Oiling, 1936 and Earlier Motlels-All Harley-
Davidson models up to and including 1936, with the exception of the
1936 61" O.H.V. Twin, employ a mechanical feed constant loss oiling
system.
Oil supply is maintained in the front section of left side tank, and
is fed to motor when running by a pump on timing gear driven by worm
g:ear from timing case. Oil is fed at a slow rate, ranging approximately
from 30-60 drops per minute, d-epending on motor speed and pump adjust-
ment. There is no oil return from motor to tank.
Oil consumption should averag:e one quart per 150-250 miles in
normal service. A slight trace of blue smoke should be evident at the
exhaust with a distinct exhaust smoke when throttle is opened and closed
suddenly. This is a good, indication that oiling system is functioning
satisfactorily.
The Hand Purnlr-The hand oil pump on tank is provided for supplying
oil direet to motor, separate from the mechanical pump, for supplementing
.the oil feed under very severe service conditions. and for replenishing
the crankcase oil supply after draining.
556 HARLEY-DAVIDSON SERVICING
Crankcaso Oil Supply-This normally never exceeds one cupful. lf

oil feed is very excessive,-it will be burnei in the motor, being thriwn on
the pistons and cylinders by the flywheels and working past the piston
rings to the combustion chambers. Some oil may also escape via the
Ieft mainshaft bearing.
Crankcase Oil Draining-Every b00 miles or oftener under very
dusty service conditions, crankcase should be drained, and crankcase oil
supply repienished ,with 3 or 4 shots from the hand pump. On models up
to 1929, crankcase is drained by screw at bottom left side case. On
1930-36 models, a spring-loaded, release valve is provided with release lever
directiy below the carburetor. swing lever free from catch and press
down. Motor should be warm when draining cra;nkcase and machine
leaned weII to the left.
The Oil Tank-This does not require draining, as no oil returns to
tank. Drain only if necessary for seasonal change of grade.
Testing OiI Pumping-Pre 1986 Wet Sump Oiling-Although the
1ale of oil consumption and evidence of exhaust smoking will give a good
indication as to functioning of oiling system, if it is desired to ascertain
if pump is actually pumping at any time, disconnect oil feed line union
nut at pump, start motor and feed pump with an oi1 can. Oil should be
steadily drawn away at a rate of at least 20 to B0 drops per minute at
a fast idling speed.
Oil Pump Adjustrnent-1929-B3 Models-Throtile control regulation
. employed
is on these models as well as a pump adjustment. To adjust,
slacken the adjusting plate securing screws and move ptate in- the
direction marked on pump to increase oiling, or in the oppoiite direction
to reduce.
Oil Fump Adjustment-1934-36 S.V. Twins-Adjustment plate at rear
end of pump is marked and movement as indieated wiu increase or rerluce
oil feed. This adjustment controls the oil supply at high speeds. The screw
at the right on rear end of pump, controls the oil pumping at low and
medium speeds. Add or remove .002" shim washers from under screw
head; adding washers increases oiling, removing reduces.
The lowest screw on the right side of pump regulates the oil supply
to the frontchain. Removing shim washers reduces front chain oiing,
and adding washers increases oiling.
Gearbox Lubrication
Motor oil of the same grade as used in motor (See page 126), is
correct for all model gearboxes. Oil levelshould be checked and topped
up at least every 1000 miles. Drain and refill at b000-mile intervals or
seasonally if there is substantial change in temperature. filling to level
of filler plug opening provides correct oil level on Twin models. On, 4b,,
models not provided with an oil drain plug, drain through filer plug
opening by leaning machine well over to right side.
125 Gearbox and Primary Drive Oil-Add oil at 1000-mile intervals
to maintain level to top mark on dipstick. Use S.A.E. No. 40 oil for
summer operation, and S.A.E. No.,20 at below freezing temperatures.
LUBRICATION 557
Geartrox Mainshaft Bearing Grea,se FittingDo not overlook g.rease

gun lubrication to the left side mainshaft bearing grease nipple located
between gearbox and clutch sprocket on 74,, and gO,, Twin models,
1930-36, and 61" arrd,74" models, up to 1929,
Grease Gun Lubrication
Grease Nipples-There are 18 g.rease fittings on lg37-bl 4b,, models,

and on the 1948 and earlier 61" and 74', O.H.Y. models without the
telescopic forks. These are located as follows:
No. of Grease
Nipples Location
4 I'ork Rocker Plate Bearings
1 tr'ront Brake Plate Bearing
2 F ront Brake Anchor Pivots
1 tr'ront Brake Operating Shaft
1 E ront Wheel Hub
2 F ront I'ork Spdng Rods
1 Saddle Pivot
1 Saddle Spring Post
1 Rear Brake tr'oot Pedal
1 Rear Brake Cross Shaft
1 Clutch Operating Arm Thrust Bearing (4b,, models only)
1 Clutch Foot Pedal Bearing (61,, and ?4,, models only)
1 Rear Wheel Hub
1 Rear Brake Operating Shaft
Grease gun lubrication shonld be provided every 1000 miles. Avoid
over-lubrication of wheel hubs, brake operating shaft nipples, and the
front wheel brake plate nipple. Excess lubrication at these points may
result in grease working onto brake linings.
Grease Fittings-Alemite button type grease nipples were used on
all Harley-Davidson models up to 1gBZ. A special type grease gun hose
is necessary for lubricating these nipples. 1988 and later models use
standard type grease fittings which can be lubricated with any standard
type grease gun. The nipples are interchangeable and changing. over
on the earlier models is recommended.
Control Oiling-Oil can lubrication should be provided at all exposed.
ends of inner control cables, handlebar lever pivots and gear change
Iever pivot, gear and brake rod control pivots.
Twist Grips-Twist grip sleeves should be removed, sliders and
spirals greased and refitted at 5000-mile intervals or oftener if controls
become stiff.
Wheel Hrub Lubrication-Wheel hubs should be dismantled, cleaned
out and repacked abottt 2/a full with fibrous wheel bearing grease, or a
medium grease, at about 20,000-mile intervals. Earlier attention should
I
not be necessary except where operating under very wet conditions,
I
Rear Chain-On models not equipped with oil feed to rear chain,
refer to lubrication section of chapter 4 for chain Iubrication procedure.
oil Filter-rf an oil filter is fitted, filter element should be washed
in gasoline or solvent at 2000-mile intervals. To service, remove dome nut,
fibre washer and cup. Remove element retaining nuts and metal element
retainer and withdraw element off stud. rf upper metal retainer with
five oil passag:e holes comes off with filter element, make sure that it is
refitted as the upper retainer when assembling.
t\, 224
CHAIN OIL FEED AND PRESSUB'D SIVITCH DDTAILS

chain oil adjusting screws as located on side valve models are shown above, Adding
['ashefs undei screw heads increases chain oil supply and remoying reduces. The oil
pressure switch operates signal light by breaking ground connection when pressure is
deyeioped. Failure of li8ht to come on may be due to a burned out bulb or faulty switch,
failu.e of light to go out may be lack of oil pressure or a pressure switch fault. oil
pumping can be checked by unscrewing pressure switch and starting motor. oil should
Dump out rapidly.
Section 2
CI,EAEANCES AND SETIINGS
67" &74"
HARLEY.DAVIDSON 45" S.V. 74',& 80',t o.H.v.
Clearances and Settings (750 c.c.) s.v. 1200 1000 &
1300 c.c. 1200 c.c.
Piston Clearances
Harley-Davidson "Slotted" type,
Cam-ground (.030" cam), skirt
tapered.
Bottom:skirt .007"-.002" .007"-.002,, .001-.002"
Top of Skirt.............. .004" .005" .005"
Ring iands... .020" .025" .025"
Replacement Tlpe Pistons (.072r' catn)
Bottom of skirt ("T" or horizontal
slot) ............. .003" .004" .004"
Top of skirt ("T" or horizontal slot)... .0041/2" .0057/2,, .006"
Ring Iands... .o20" .025" .025"
Piston pin in piston (hand push fit)
Piston pin in rod (reamed)....... .001/z', 'ooa/2" .00r/2"
Piston pin in rod (honed)......... .001" .001" .001"
Standard eylinder bore, inches.. 2.745" *3.312" 2" (61)
*3.422" 3.437 (74)
*NOTEI: 1930-1936, '14" and all 80"
models 3.422" bote,7937-1948 74"
s.v. 3.312',
Standard cylinder bore, m,/m.... 69.72 mm. 84.10- 84.10 mm.
86.9 m/m
Inlet valve tappet (cold)............. .005" .005" x *.001"
Exhaust valve tappet (cold).................. .007" .007" * *.003"
Inlet valve stem in guide.............. .004" .004'l .004"
Exhaust stem in guide.............. .005" .005" .005"
Valve seat angle.............. 45 deg. 45 deg. 45 deg.
lgnition advance (on pistons). .JAn' t
-;1.,t
t i.4a
Breaker point gap..... .o22" .022" .022"
Spark plug point gap...... .025" .025" .025"
Con-rod big-end clearance...... .003/+-1" .001" .001"
Con-rod side clearance.............................. 005"-.015" .005"-.015" .005"-.015,,
F lywheel end play....... 010"-.020" .070"-.020" .070"-,020,,
Camshafts in bushings.. .001" .001" .001"
**Clearances listed are for 7947 and earlier O.H.V. models. 1948 and later
O.H.V. models have self-adjusting hydraulic tappets. These only require
resetting after overhaul, see pqge 573.
560 HARLEY-DAVIDSOIV SERVICING
Section B
MOTOR SERVICING
(a) 1937.51 Sitle Valve Twins
Top Motor Overhaul

Top overhaul is normally required at 10-1b,000-mile intervars,
depe_nding on operating conditions. Symptoms indicating need for top
overhaul are: excessive oil consumption ana exhaust smoklng, piston stap,
_
increased mechanicar noise, ross bf compression and g.ene"ratiy reduced

performance.
. Dismantling Procedure-Removar of tanks is not essentiar but

improves accessibility.
1. Disconnect battery to avoid possibility of short circuit.
2. Drain Oil Tank.
3. Remove instrument panel cover by removal of three panel securing
screws, panel light switch knob and speedometer knob side -plate.
4. Remove oil tank pipes (4b,, models).
5. Shut off gas tap and disconnect gas line.
6. Remove tanks by removing' the two front borts and one rear
bolt, disconnecting gearshift lever iod bolt.
_. 7. Remove spark plugs, cylinder head to frame bracket, and
cylinder heads.
8. Remove inlet manifold complete with carburetor.
p.- Remove cyrinder blocks. rf the special rr-D
12-point angre soeket
wrench is not availabre for cyrinder basi nuts, a ..flexl.-box,, or" ear type
starter wrench will be found. usefur. As a;n alternative, a tong ttunt
screwdriver used. as a punch with hammer, can be used for rem-ovar
the front right and rear right cylinder base stud nuts. of
10. ff pistons are obviousry in sound condition, it is just as well
not to remove from rods. rf pistons are to be removed, it-is advisable
- rs
the
Bottom End Bearing rAttention Necessarxr?-After completion of
top overhaul dismaniling, a check should be made on .th-e
big-end bearing pray. L_if!. straight up and down on the con-rods; "orr-roa
barely perceptibre straight up and down pray exists ana siae-prayit
measured at top of rod is less thatt /ta", further bottom end, service is
obtainable and the machine may be set aside, awaiting of the
top overhaill "bench work.,, "oo'fi"tio"
If noticeable straight !p ald down play is felt in rod big_end (.004,,
or more) and top end rod side-play of Tta,, or more, need for con-rod
bearing replaeements is indieated.
rt is difficult to eheck on the flywheel mainshaft bearings without
removal of the front chaincase, so play can be determinea byititting up
MOTOR SERVICING 561
and down on sprocket for left-side bearing, and removal of timing cover
for checking of mainshaft right side bearing. Con-rod, bearing wear
develops more rapidly than mainshaft wear, and as a general rule, rf
con-rod bearings are O.K. it can be taken that mainshafts are satisfactory.
Very excessive mainshaft clearance can be detected by pulling up on
the con-rods, lifting the flywheel assembly.
If the bottom end is found to be satisfaetory, the eylinder base
surfaces should be cleaned off, and if pistons are being left on the rods,
the ring grooves thoroughly cleaned out, carbon removed from piston
tops, crankcase flushed out, some oil poured over con-rod big-end and
crankcase covered over, awaiting completion of the top overhaul bench
work.
Top Motor Overhaul Servicing

Piston Pin Lockrings-An unusual type of piston pin lockring that
snaps onto a g'roove in each end of piston pin, is used. See III. 225.
Eemoving Lockrings-Only one lockring needs to be removed for
withdrawing pin. Either one or two slots are provided in one end, of the
piston pin to facilitate removal. Use a substantial screwdriver and pry
off one end of lockring through slot in pin, then pry off the other end of
lockring through the opposite slot. Where there is only one slot in end
of pin, grip with pliers after prying out of gToove and pull off. The
factory tool is not necessary for removal of the lockrings, but when
it is used, a smaller screwdriver is used for prying out lockring bearing
on the flat provided by the half cutaway on the end of the tool.
Refitting Lockrings-The special factory tool simplifies the job
considerably. The tool is fitted through the piston pin. The tapered end
of tool should be oiled. Slip on lockring with shoulder towards piston.
E orce lockring on with the hollo,w sleeve. Note that lockring fits right
down into groove on pin. The "gap" between the lockring ends when
correctly fitted is approximately Yrc", To fit lockring without special
tool, start one side of lockring onto pin and hold it there with thumb or
screwdriver while the other side is forced on with another serewdriver.
Then tap it right into the groove. Dipping tockring in oil and oiling pin
end facilitates fitting.
The lockring on the end of the pin that is not slotted need never
be removed or replaced unless it becomes very loose. The lockring that
is removed when dismantling, should be replaced urith a new one if
possible. ff not, straighten the old one up and bend carefully to close
the gap up to about %2" so t}rat it will be a tight fit on pin.
Piston Rings-New piston rings should be fitted on every top over-
haul job if the gap in the o1d rings when placed in the unworn end. of
the cylinder exceeds .040". File new piston ring joints to give .015,,-.018,,
gap in lower end of cylinder. Carbon should be scraped from bottom of
ring grooves using end of an old broken ring as a scraper.
Do the Fistons Require Replracing?-Piston replacement is not likely
to be neeessary prior to time for a rebore job, unless an oil shortage or
'extreme overheating has been experienced. If pistons appear doubtful,
check bottom and top of skirt clearance on thrust faces, also side (up and
down) clearance of new rings in ring grooves. Pistons should be replaced
562 HARLEY.DAVIDSON SERVICING
where ring side clearance in grooves exceeds .007", ot if bottom of

skirt clearance exceeds .006", and if top of skirt clearance is over .008",
!l
- --:--t
r__ r !_-
trr, 225
I{ATi.I,EY TYFE PISTON PfN LOCI'RING
A Harl€y 45 type piston is shown. Note that if Fiston is of the type the "T"
slot must be fitted to the front. "L" section lockrings fit into grooves on the plston
pin. To remoye piston pin, pry off the lockring on the slotted end of pin with a
screwdriver. Ehe other tockring need not be rcmoved or replaced. unless it becomes loose
on pin.
o
lT
a
Oo
-L
?t
'4------_]
I
I
I
ttr. 226
PISTON PIN LOCITRfNG fNSTALLING TOOL

A tool for installing Harley-Davidson type piston pin lockrings can easily be mad€.
Dimensions are shown in the above illustration. Lockring is placed on tapered end of
tool, tool fitted into piston pin anal lockring forced on with the hollow driver. Tool can
be turned from 1/s" bar steel and driver made from 1" llar or 1" O.D. tubing. If tool
is to be used frequenUy, tapered end should he haridened to avoid scuffing. The manu-
facturer's tool has the pilot end under cut to provide a base for screwdriver for prying
when removing lockrings. This is not necessary as remoyal is easily effected prying directly
on pin end with a large screwdriver.
Piston Pins antl Bushings-Maximum permissible pin clearanees are
.003" in small-end bush and .0015" in piston bosses. Where clearances in
both rod and piston are excessive, the simplest repair is to install an
oversize pin. .001" pin clearance in bushing should be provided when
honed; if reamed, a light finger push fit is permissible. Pin should be a
hand press fit in piston. When fitting new small end-bushes, note that these
are supplied .008"-.010" undersize bore, and unless the rods are out and can
be power-reamed, a lot of sIo'w hand reaming is necessary if bushings
MOTOR SERVICING 563
are Just pressed in as supplied. Where bushing replaeement is to be

.made with rods in the motor, time will be saved if bushing is first bored
out in lathe to about .793', (to give about .001,, clearance), then only a
very slight amount of reaming will be necessary after insertion. piston
pin diameter is .7915", a 25/Bztt-27A2tt rearner covers this size.
-. _ Bushing' Boring-Note that the small-end bushings are of very
Iight section and therefore, avoid over-tightening chuck jaws if boring in
lathe so that bushing will not be distorted,
Cylintler Reboring a,nd Oversize Fistons-When bore wear exceeds
.010" cylinders shouldr be finished out to an oversize of an even .,ten,,
over the standard cylinder bore up to a maximum of .0?0,, oversize
as required.
Standa,rd Cylinder Bore Sizes-
45" S.V. Twins-2.745',
74" S.Y. T\,vins-3.312', (7937 and later models)
?4" S.V. Twins-3.422" (1930-1936 models)
80" S.V. Twins-3.422',
Piston Clea,rances--It should be noted that . the standard Harley
piston skirt provides exceptional compensation for expansion, being
"slotted" and, "cam ground" to the unusual extent of .080,, smallei
diameter across the skirt sides. The skirt is tapered .0025,,-.009,, smaller
at the top.
When new, these pistons are fitted with the unusually close clear-
ance of .00L"-.002" at the bottom of skirt. This may increase to about
.003" after a short time, but in normal seryice will not increase much
beyond this, even after say 20,000 miles.
Repla,cement Type Pistons-Note that when fitting replacement type
pistons, less cam-grind is used (.012,,) but rather more skirt clearance
is provided on the thrust. Refer to Section 2 .,Clearances and Settings,,
for fitting specification on all types,
"Il" Slot Type Pistons-Harley 45,, pistons in .080,, and larg.er
oversizes are provided with a "T" slot in the skirt as are various
replacement t3pes. These must be fitted with the ,,T,, slot facing to the
front of machine.
Valves a,ntl Guides-Valve seat angle is 45 degrees; stems are rlg::,,
diameter, on the 45" arLd, 3/a', ort 74,, motors. X'or reseating;, a LV+,, head.
diameter cutter or stone is suitabte for the 4E anal 2'1rla,, for the 74,, model.
Normal valve seat width is %2" to t/6,,. lf seat becomes wider and
valve pocketed from excessive seat wear and reseating, a 1b degree or
flat cutter can be used to cut down top edge of seat until it is lev;l with
or slightly lower than top edge of valve head seat face.
Where possible, it is recommended that valves and seats be servicerl
with electric grinder equipment. When this work is accurately done,
no grinding in is necessary.
Valve Guides-These are an ordinary press fit in the block, and when
worn to give .008" or more stem clearance, should be replaced. The
usual double diameter drift should be used for removal and, refitting. A
simple test of valve g:uide condition is to try a .002,, oversize pilot item
from valve reseating equipment; if free in guide, replacement is advisable.

Reseating, of course, must be done after new valve guides are installed.
Checking on Va,lvo Grintl Job-Place cylinders upside down on bench
a,nd pour a small amount of gasoline or kerosene into the ports, one at a
time, andr watch for seepage around the valve head, There should be no
more than just a trace of seepage in 10 or 15 seconds. If dripping occurs,
inaccuracy in the refacing and reseating, or the need for further grinding
in is indicated.
Valve Spring, Cover Ga,skets-A rubber oil seal gasket is used between
the upper and lower telescoping valve spring covers. These gaskets do
not need to he replaced on every top overhaul job. If there is just
perceptible drag between the upper and lower covers, replacement is
not neeessary. When fitting new rubbers, first clean off all burned on
oil from the outside of top cover tube, oil or grease outside of this tube,
fit new rubber in against shoulder in lower cover' oil or grease and enter
upper cover. Note that the lower cover can be slid up and down with
moderate pressure, so that difficulty will not be encountered with
threading down lower cover onto tappet guide after assembling is
completed and tappets adjusted.
A gasket is used under valve spring top cover against the vaJve
guide shoulder. Another gasket is used on erankcase tappet guide at
bottom valve cover screw joint. Replacement of these gaskets is
to ensure against oil leakage.
advisable
TOP MOTOR, OVERHAUL R,EASSEMBLY

After the bench work is completed, proceed with reassembly in the
reverse order of dismantling. A new set of gaskets should be used if
available when no jointing compound will be necessary if the joint
surfaces are in good condition.
Piston Befitting-F irst note that carbon has been thoroughly cleaned
out of piston ring grooves, and that new rings go down below level of
piston lands. Heat piston for pin refitting if pins are tight. Refit pistons
in their original positions. Make sure lockrings are correctly refitted,
that piston ri4g joint gap has been ehecked, and joints "staggered"
so not all in line. Oil pistons, rings and cylinders, and pour about /2 cupful
of oil into era"nl<case fitting cylinders.
befol'e
Cylinder Installing-tr'it cylinder base gaskets. tr'it rear cylinder
first. Simplest method of fitting cylinder over rings, is to enter the top
ring ends into cylinder first tilting cylinder over ring: joint; then pressrng:
in on ring opposite joint'while lowering cylinder completely over top ring.
Repeat operation similariy on remaining rings.
Inlet Manifoltl Cylintler Nipp'le Joints-Take care when doing these
up. Leave cylinder bases untightened until these joints are moderately
tight, then tighten down cylinder bases and make final tightening of the
inlet nipple joints. When in good condition, no jointing compound is
required. Note that the brass nipple cone fits onto manifolds with the
tapered end towards the nipple nuts, and with the square shouldered end
towards the cylinder blocks. Before fitting cylinder heads, it is good
policy to check the valve and ignition timing in relation to piston
movement.
MOTOR SERVICING 565
_ Clecking
when
fgnition Timing-tr'irst, clean and set points .022,, gap
fully open and advance control. Revolve motor in running direction
until front piston is from top of stroke (45,, Twina) and. g6:,,
before top of stroke (74,, and 80,, models) on compression stroke, both
valves closed. Points should be just separating on the narrow breaker cam.
Revolve motor over until rear piston is equal d.istance from top of
compression stroke and note that points are just separating on the
wide cam.
The flyurrheel timing mark is for timing on the front cylinder. When
this mark is in the centre of timing plug hole and front piston on com-
pression stroke points should just be separating on the narrow breaker
cam. See Il1. 235 for details.
Checking Valve Timing-Valve timing cannot be out unless timing
cover has been removed and the gears refitted incorrecily. Timing is
approximately correct on 45" models if inlet valve opens with piston
Tte" before top of exhaust stroke and if exhaust valve closes completeiy
abowt %.a" past top of exhaust stroke. On 74,, and 80,, models, excepl 1gB0
and 1931 VC models, inlet valve opens approximatety %e,, before top of
piston exhaust str.oke, and exhaust valve closes 6/t0,, past top of stroke.
Cylindler He.ad Refitting-Care should be taken in the process of
carbon removal to avoid scratching the head joint surfaces. If cylinder
head gasket joint leakage has been experienced, it is good policy to have
the head joint surface trued up. A fair job can be done by rubbing head
on a sheet of emery cloth on a level surface.
New gasket should be used if available; if not, old solid copper type
gaskets can be improved by heating red and quenehing in water to soffen.
Oiling or greasing gasket improves jointing, enabling head to spread out
more readily.
Tighten head bolts progressively to a final pressure of b0-bb ft. lbs.
torque.
Crankcase Servicing
Removing Motor from Fra,me-The complete Harley motor is easily
removed. Motor is secured by four boits through crankease and frame
platforms, and top cylinder head to frame bra&et. Removal of engine
sprocket nut and engine sprocket is best done while in frame. Engage
high gear and apply rear brake. A few hammer blows to wrench hammer
will loosen nut. sprocket is most simply removed frorn driveshaft taper
by placing a metal drift near outer edge of sprocket, and givi4g a shirp
rap with hammer. After disconnecting controls, oil lines, gas line, circuit
breaker low tension wire at coil, removat of the two inner chaincase
crankcast! screws, footboards, muffler and, exhaust assembly,
motor can be lifted out from right side. "orrrpi;i;
crankcase Dismantling-E irst remove timing cover and timing gears.
Avoid loss of the thin steel washers fitted to the cam gears. ThJse may
stick to crankcase or timing cover bushings, and are best removed anh
located on cam gears to avoid loss. crankcase is easily separated after
removal o,f sectrring stud nuts and bolts,
separating' Fl5rwheels-cramp flywheer shaft in vice using. soft vice
jaws or wrapping flywheel shaft with soft sheet metal to protect from
vice jaw damage. Locate a bar through flywheel holes and vice jaws to
prevent assembly turning when unwinding crankpin nut. Removal of
flyrrheel from crankpin taper is most easily effected by placing a large
wedge or chisel between flyi;vheels near crankpin and giving it a sharp
blow with hammer. If it is desired to remove crankpin from flywheel
in which it remains, flylvheel can be clamped in vice, nut undone and pin
easily driven out.
Bearing Rollers-The bearing roilers run directly on the shafts and
on pressed-in races in the rods and crankcases. Rollers are held in
"retainers." Hardened thrust washers are fitted over eaeh mainshajt
against the cast iron flywheels and similar thrust washers fitted over
crankpin into recesses in the flywheels. Numbers and dimensions of
bearing rollers are as follows:-
193?-195L 45" Twin Bearing Rollers
7/4't diameLer by .270" Iength rollers
Eorked con-rod............................24
Plain con-rod........,.......................12 7/4" diameter by .550" length rollers
R. mainshaft ....... 12 r/a" diameter by .550" length rollers
L. mainsha^ft ..........24 a/4" diarr.eter by .360" length rollers
1937-1939 61' O.H.V. 74" anll 80" S.V. Trvin Bearing Rcllers
F a/4t' diarr.ete.t by .360" Iength rollers
orked con-rod..............................36
7/4" diameter by ,726" length rollers
Plain con-rod.......,........................14
R. mainshaft ..........72
1/+" diameter by .600" length rollers
L. mainshaft 7/1" diameter by .490" length rollers
..........24
1940-1952 6L",14" and 80' Twin BeaT ing Rollers
F'orked con-rod........... ..............36 %0" diameter by ,344" length rollers
Plain con-rod..................... . ..18 %0" diameter by .694" length rollers
Mainshaft ro11ers............ As 1937-1939 models above.
Bearing Roller Oversizes-Harley-Davidson bearing rollers are avaii-
able in standard diameter, and oversizes rising in .0002" steps up to '001".
IJndersize rollers are also supplied and can be used to advantage when
new races are fitted, reducing amount of honing required after installing.
Craarkcase Bearing Servicing-The flylvheel mainshaJt bearings have
a long life and even when con-rod big-end bearings require replacing, it
will be quite often found that mainshaft bearings are perfectly satisfactory.
Generally, standard bearings will be sufficient. If oversize bearings are
to be installed, best procedure is to remove shafts from fiywheels. It is
advisable to polish slighUy, particularly to remove any slight ridge that
may have developed at drive end of left flywheel shaft. Run shafts at
500-1000 r.p.m. a^nd final polish with No. 240 emery cloth to give smooth
finish. Normally, shafts should only be polished down sufficiently to
smooth, bearing fit being obtained by race honing. ff emerying any
amount off shafts, check with micrometer to avoid tapering.
Crankcase Raco Honing-The spring retaining rings located in the
outside ends of crankcase races, are easily removed with ignition pliers
gripping near end and twisting out, The drive side oil seal bushing is easily
driven out. Where oversize rollers are installed, best procedure is to
hone crankcase races on Sunnen bushing grinder (See Chapter 2l).
Rollers can be assembled to retainers, placed in races and shaJts slipped
through to check fit. Shafts should be perfectly free with barely per-
ceptible "shake."
MOTOR SERVICING
Recommended mainshaft bearing clearances are .0007,,-.0015,,.

Con-rod Races-These only require replacing when worn to the extent
that a satisfactoryfit eannot be obtained with .001,, oversize rollers. Races
contract when installed, and .002"-.003" usually requires honing out after
insertion, for use with new standard rollers. This work is best done on
the Sunnen Bushing Grinder. See Chapter 21.
Front and Rear Con-rods-Note that the plain con-rod is the front
and the "forked" the rear on all 1939 and later S.V. and all 1940 and
Iater O.H.V. models. On 1938 and earlier S.V. models, and all 1989 and
earlier O.H.V. models, forked con-rod is the front and plain con-rod is
the rear.
Reassembling Fl5rwheels-ff mainshafts are removed, refit these first,
tightening nuts to 80-100 ft. lbs. torque. Note that shaft keys are refitted.
Tighten nut lockwasher screws. The lockwasher plates can be turned
over to give a fine variation of position.
Con-rod Bea,ring Fit-Correct big-end clearance is .000?,,-.001,,, pin
shouldr slip freely through roller and retainer assembly when placed in rod
big-end with just barely perceptible shake. When honing rod big-ends,
simplest method of checking fit is to fit roller and retainer assembly to
rod and try slippirtg pin through at frequent intervals.
Crankpin tapers should be clean and dry, and fllrwheel taper holes
iikewise. Note that key is fitted to crankpin and locate this tnd first
into flyrvheel with ke,'way, clamp flyvgheel securely in vice and tighten
nut up to 80-100 ft. lbs. torque, Next, locate flylvheel horizontally with
crankpin up, in vice, clamping on flyvyheel mainshaft, first prolecting
from vice jaw damage.
Roller and rtetainer Assembly-slip on roller and. retainer assernbly,
Note the long rollers fit in the centre and the short rollers at either side
with closed ends of retainers towards flylsheels at both sides. When
slippi4g on con-rods, take careful note that they are positioned correctly,
according to model as detailed above. After fitting rods, fit on flyuvheel
and tighten up crankpin nut with moderate pressure and check alignment
as below.
Aligning Flywheels-If a special jig is not available, wheels can be
aligned fairly accurately by use of a straight edge across the front faces
at right angles to the crankpin. See lll. 1g3, page 448. AJignment can
also be carried out between lathe centres, or in the manufacturer,s truing
jig, but shaft centres must be undamaged and eoneentric to shafts to
give accurate results.
tr'ly'wheel alignment should be finally checked after nuts are finally
tightened. rf flywheels have shifted duri4g the final tightening, they can
be drifted into aligrrment by striking the high flylheel with a-heav! soft
hammer, supporting the other fryr,vheer on bench top. Generauy, if fl)rwheer
surfaces check level with straight edge at right ingles to ciantpin, tty-
wheel shafts will be within .002,, of correct alignment.
Con-rod Sitlo PIay Betrryeen Fl5rwheels-plain rod should fit quite
freely between forked rod. Eorked rod should have .005,,-.01b,, side play
between flyrvheels when crankpin nuts are ful1y tightened. Shgfrtty
excessive play is not harmful, and is often due to insufficient tightening
of crankpin nuts. Insufficient con-rod side play may be due to over-
tightening of crankpin nuts, or oil on crankpin tipers,-allowing flyw,heels
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MOTOR SERVICING 569
p_"tt farther onto pin when reassembling. Rod side play between the
1_o
flywheels can be increased by emerying down outside surlace of forked
rod big-ends. Be sure flywheet thrust washers are in place.
Fl5'wheel Assembly Entlplay in Cra,nkcase-When crankcase is bolted.
up, flylvheel assembly end float should be between .008,, and .01b,,. The
mainshaft fly'wheel thrust washers are available in varyiqg thicknesses,
in steps of .004", for adjusting end float. Note-These washers have a
hole to be located over flywheel peg. Make sure washer hole registers
with peg when fitting. Smearing with thick g'rease before fitting lo fly-
wheel will ensure washers stay in place on peg.
Camshaft Bushings-These should be examined before reassembling
crankcase. Replacements are not normally necessary until over 40,000
miles have been covered. To avoid excessive noise, replacements are
recommended when shaft clearance in bushings exceeds .004,,. If a factory
set of camshaft bushing reamers is not availabte, it is advisable to first
bore the new bushings out in a lathe to give abottt .002,, shaft clearance.
After pressing the bushings in, (cases heated) only the slightest reaming
will be necessary to provide required .001,, shaft clearance. Note that
original bushings are "pegged,, and it is advisable to treat replacements
likewise.
Valve Tappets a,nd Tappet Guides-Replacements are rarely necessary.
When tappet roller is noticeably worn and has considerable bushing ptay,
tappet roller pin rivetted end may be ground off, pin punched out anA
new' pin, roller bushing: and roller installed, and pin rivetted over. To
remove tappet assembly and tappet guide, heat crankease to boiling water
temperature. Tappet can be drawn out from bottom of guide when
removed.
Cam Gear Thrust Washers-Most motors were originally assembled
with a .006" steel thrust washer behind each cam gear and on the right
side of the two front cam g:ears only. Care should be taken when dis-
mantling to notice the location and number of washers, and no aJteration
will_ normally be necessary, providing timing cover ,ga.sket of orig"inal
thickness is refitted. rn a motor where new timing bushings have been
installed, tappet guides should. be removed, timing .g.ears installed, and
timing case fitted and screwed up, using the gasket to be used in final
assembly. Timing g'ears should be free with up to .006,, end float. This
can be best checked through the tappet guide holes.
Tappet Guide Refitting-Do not mix the front and rear, otherwise
tappet rollers will be at right angles to cams. Note that tappet rollers
are parallel to cams.
Crankease Eeassernbly
Note that flywheel shaft thrust washers No. 12 are first 1ocated on
peg's on flywheels securing with stiff g.rease.
Bearing Assemtrly-Refer to m. 227 for details of crankcase bearing
layout on the 45" models. The ,general crankcase bearing layout is similar
on the larger motors, except the drive side bearing rollei retainers are
located with the open ends facing one another with a thrust washer in
between. on the o.H.v. Twins a spacer washer is used on right flywheel
shaft between retainer and flyrvheet thrust washer. After -asceliaining
that bearing fits are satisfactory, first instalr the spring rings No. 22 ii
grooves at end of crankcase bearing races. rnstall tire oit-retaiiing bushing
No, 30 and bearing washer No, 29 in the drive sidg bearing rape, it-removeo.
Locate bearing rollers and retainers in drive side race and then locate
crankcase blocked up from bench top ix.ith drive side dor'vn. Lolver drive
sid.e flywheel shaft through bearing, coat crankcase joint surface with
joiniing compound.
Locate washer No. 21 with "tip" on outer edge, into right cranhcase,
"tip" registering with hole, against spring ring No. 22' If washer is
coated with thick g:rease, it. lvili stay in position. Locate bearing rollers
and retainers on flyrvheel shaft. As right crankcase is lowered over right
flyurheel shaft, note that tlte outsicle race oil seal washer No. 24 must Le
fittecl at the same time. This cannot be fitted on after crankcase is
assemirled unless return oil pump and l:reather sleeve gear are lvithdrawn.
Crankcases should be tapped together and bolted up' Note that endplay
is between range of .008"-.015". tri'ollowing rvasher No. 24, fits spring
No. 25, worm ,gee.r No. 26 and pinion gear No. 27 wittt mark out'
Tirrine the Breather Gear 193?-1951 S.V. Motors-It ls essential that
the crankcase breather be correctly "timed" otherwise oil return wiII not
function properly, and consumption will be excessive. To time, proceed
as follows:-
1. Revolve motor so that flywheel timing mark registers u'ith timing
hotre. See I11.229.
2. Hold timing pinion onto shaft so that its outer edge is about %e"
from cover joint surface on 45" models, ar,d i,/ta" on 74" and 80" S'V'
models. Note-This gear is a free fit on splined shaft and mainshaft
bearing oil seal spring'tends to push it off.
3. Engage helical breather sleeve gear so that hole registers lvith
the slot in its housing as shown, when timing pinion is pushed on required
amount as No. 2 above. Note-Although the return oi1 pump can be
removed and refitted without removing the timing cover, it is essential
that the cover be removed in such an operation to enable correct timing
of the breather gear to be obtained.
valvo Timing-crankcase timing pinion and camwheels are all marked
and lll. 228 shows the correct location of marks.
cam Gear Installation-cam gears should aiways be insta.lled before
cylinders are fitted as it is much easier to loeate timing gears when
valves are not in contact with tappets.
Generator Gear Mesh-Paper shims are fitted under the g'enerator

to adjust gear mesh. Generator should always be refitted before timing
gear ;oveais installed, and ,sufficient paper shims placed under g'enerator
so that generator g:ear can be revolved freely, meshed with idler gear.
There should be no more than just barely perceptible back lash between
the generator g:ear and idler gear. Too tight a g'enerator gear mesh
will cause a distinct ,,whine," and too loose a gear mesh will cause noisy
operation.
Timing Cover Eefitting-A new gasket should be used without any

jointing compound or old gasket re-u'sed with jointing compound. The
Lo""""i oil pump gasket should likewise be used to ensure reg'istering of
oil holes in gasket with pump and timing cover oil feed passageways.
If oil feed pump has been removed, fit timing cover first, then take care
MOTOR SERVICING 577
to Irne up the rear exhaust camshaft driving dogs with the pump rotor
slot as pump is fitted.
The timing cover can be fitted with pump installed, but extreme care
must be taken in the lining up of the oil pump drive slot with camshaft
dogs. When timing cover is within aboat a/a" of being fully on, cover should
be tapped lightly, and if it does not slip on readily, the flywheels should
be slowly rocked back and forth very slightly while continuing tapping
on rear of timing cover or oi1 pump. When driving slot and gear dogs
ttr 228
HARLIIY-DAVIDSON CANT GEAR. TIIIING MARI(S 1937.1951 S.V. }[ODEI^S

Gears are most easily installed before cylinders are fitted and when reassembling do not
flt cylinders until gears are correctly installed, otherwise gear timing is difficult due to
tappet pressure on cams preventing easy movement, of 8ears.
fil. 225
TIIIfNG TEE BREATEER

sf,EDvE GEAR (46", 74" &\d.
8O" S.V. Moilels)
Correct "Timing" of the crilkcase
breather sleeve 8:ear is essential,
The steps are detaited in the text.
In bdef: RemoYal of the plug on
left crankcase enables flywheel rim
mark (1) to tle registered with the
plug screw hole, this is the correct
position for breather timing, Push
the spring loaaled crmkshaft pinion
on until its outer face (3) is 616"
from case joint surface on 45"
models and 7A6t' on 74,, and 80,,
maehines; this is the running posi-
tion of the pinion controlled by the
timing coYer bushing. Breather
sleeve gear should be meshed so
that hole in sleeve registers with
slot (4) in sleevE housing as shown.
ru. 230
IIOLDING TEE HARLDY MOTOR ON

TIIE BENCII
A short length of 1/4"x1" fTat iron, twisted
90 degrees and bolted to one of the crank-
case frame lugs forms a good connection for
vice clamping.
Attaching to the riBht rear mounting lug
rather than the front lug: as shown, is recom-
mended; this provides more accessibility to
timing gears.
As an alternative to vice clamping a 2x4
board cradle can be easily made with dimen-
sions that will just hold bottom crankcase
clear from bench top, This wiU hold motor
itr an upright position anal facilitate assembly.
Secure mounting is important in motor assem-
bly work on bench to ensure an eyen and
adequate tightening of such important items
as cylinder base and head nuts, manifolds,
etc.
register, cover will go right on to close up joint. Do not tlghten up

timing cover or oil pump screws unless cover can be tapped right up to
crankcase joint surface, otherwise damage to pump drive may result,
Breaker Point Assembly-Removal and Repla.cement-Remove cap
and pry securing screw wire clips out of breaker base. Breaker base plate
with points and condenser can now be lifted clear. Remove the two scre\\:s
securing breaker drive housing to the timing gear cover, and drive can
be lifted out.
When refitting', have flyuvheel timing mark in crankcase timing hole
with front piston on compression stroke. Insert breather drive assembly
so that timing mark on top of cam lines up with the breaker point fibre
when the spark control is in the advanced position, (lever arm pushed
toward motor). It may be necessary to withdraw the drive assembly
and move the camshaft drive gea]. a tooth either way, once or trvice,
until the right mesh is obtained.
Refit and securely tighten the breaker drive housing securing screws.
Refit the cover retaining wire clip and slide around the circular tension
spring at the bottom of breaker housing mounting plate, until the two
notches in circular spring engag'e with the retaining wire clips. This is
important so that the breaker assembly is pulled right down onto base
and to ensure a good ground for points.
Adjust timing as necessary by slackening band screw and moving
breaker head either way so that breaker points are just separating on
the naffow cam in the a.dvanced position; flywheel timing mark in centre
of timing hole with both valves on front cylinder closed. t
MOTOR SERVICING 573
(b)
1938-I-952 O.H.V. Twins
The servicing details given in the preceding sub-section on the
1937-1951 S.V. motors, are ,generally applicable; particuiarly the notes on
crankcase servicing which apply equally to the O.H.V. motors. Attention
is drawn to the servicing' details on the O.H.V. motors that differ from
the S.V. models as below:-
Standard Cylinder Bore Sizes-
61" O.H.V. Twin ............ 3.3725"
74" O.H.Y. Twin ............ 3.4375"
C5'linder Head Removal-Sticking to block trouble is sometimes

experienced when attempting to remove the 1948 and later type aluminum
cyiinder heads. In such cases, use a block of wood and hammer, applying
under inlet manifold nuts and exhaust ports. Do not attempt to separate
by driving a screwdriver between head joint. This may cause considerable
damage to joint surfaces.
I-948-1952 Cylinder Head a,nd Base Gaskets-Note-These have oil
holes for the hydraulic pushrod oil feed and oil drainage to crankcase.
ft is essential that the correct type gaskets be used and fitted correctly
L so that gasket holes register with the oil passag'eways.
Cylinder Head and tsaso Nuts-Either a flexi-box or automotive starter
type wrench are useful for work on these nuts.
Tappet Adjustment-194? and Earlier Motors-Adjustment should be
made with motor cold. Allow .001" intake clearance (pushrod free to spin
with just perceptible up and down shake), an41.003" exhaust clearance
(slightly more than perceptible shake). Note-The two inside pushrods
are the intake and that pistons are on top of compression stroke in
cylinder on which adjustment is treing made.
1948-1952 Tappet Adjustment--Self adjusting hydraulic pushrods are
used on these models. No adjustment is normally required between over-
hauts. Sllghtly noisy operation is normal immediately after starting up
until oil pressure is developed. Noisy valve operation occurring other than
immediately after starting may result from a deficiency in oil supply.
t-
Machine should be stopped immediately, oil supply and circulation checked.
Other possible causes of continued noisy valve operation are a fault in
the hydraulic pushrod or oil feed to pushrod obstrueted. This is unlikely
to occur if oil tank is flushed out periodicaily and if sludge is not aJlowed
to accumulate in oiling system.
As the parts in the hydraulic unit of pushrod are a selective fit,
manufacturers advise against interchanging. If servicing is to be done
L they advise dismantling and reassembling one pushrod at a time.
To provide correct adjustment after overhaul, revolve motor so piston
in cylinder on which valves are being adjusted is at the top of compression
stroke. Slacken tappet adjusting screw locknut and turn tappet screw
down until pushrod is free and has noticeable shake. Then slowly turn
tappet screw out just sufficiently to take up pushrod shake. Mark the
tappet screw with chalk or pencil and unscrew exactly three full additional
turns, then tighten locknut. After co,mpleting adjustment on one cylinder,
revolve motor until other piston is at top of compression stroke, and
adjust both valves on other cylinder in the sarne manner.
574 HARLE]Y-DAVIDSON SERVICING
Gasket Set-A complete set of factory-made gaskets should be used

whenever assembling these motors, to ensure ag'ainst oil lea.kage.
Ill. 23r
IIARI-EY.DAVIDSON 61" AND ?4I' O.H.V. TAPFET ADJUST}IE\T

tr'or access to tappets, push down on pushrod tube sleeves and rencve the hall round keepers
(No. 5) from top end of each tube, permitting tubes to telescope up.
On 1948 and earlier models, pushrods (No. 1) should be free to spin with ba.ely perceptible
shake on the intake, (inside) pushrods and perceptible shake on the exhausl, (outside)
push rodS.
Adjust F'hen motor is cold. Slacken locknut (No. 3) and turn tappet screw iNo. 2) as
required and retighten locknut. Adiust rear cylinder tappets when igni'"iou points are iust
separating on the wide breaker cam and adjust f:ont cylinder tappets lfith points just
breaking on the narrow breaker cam. This will ensur€ adjustmenl being mace on full]'
slosed portion of Yalves.
1949 and later O.Ir.V. motors have self-adjusting hydraulic pushrods and no tappet adjust-
ment is necessary except after overhaul. (See page 573.)
Three cork gaskets are used for oil seals on pushroal tubes located a.t ealh end and beloE'
the expander sleeve and spring. These should be replaced when overhauling.
MOTOR,SERVICING 575
Valve Springs-Valve springs should be checked for lerlgth in com-

parison with new springs on every top overhaul job, and replacement
made if
springs are shortened %2" or more.
Compression Ratios-The standard dome top pistons give a 6.5:1
ratio with shims under cylinder bases. With shims removed, ratio is
approximately 7:1. It is inadvisable to remove shims where appreciable
cylinder wear has developed, unless all ring ridge at top of cylinder is
carefully removed, otherwise the lowered cylinder position will allow top
ring to strike ridge, Iikely causing ring breakage.
Generator Gea,r Mesh-This should be cheeked before refitting timing
cover; see page 570.
I
L
!_
It|,. 232
IIAR,I,EV-DAVIDSON 6I," AND ?4" O.H,Y. TIITfNG GEAR, MARKS

When assembling timing gears note the correct order of assembly on dght mainshaft; Oil
Seal Ring against crankcase, Oil Pump Spiral cear, Spacing CoUar, SpriDg anal Timing
Pinion (No. 1) f itted with mark out.
When Cam Gear (No.2) and'Breathe! Gear (No. B) are engaged ffi shown. valve and
breather timing will be correct.
Note that a spacing washer ls fitted behind Cam eear No. 2 anal a collar in front of
Breaker Drive cear (No. 4) and Intermediate Drive Gear No. 5. Oil Pmp Drive eear No. ?
is located on shaft with key anil spring ring.
(c) 1930-I-936 S.V. Twins-1926-1934 Singles

The servicing procedure under sub-section (a) 1937-1951 S.V. Tkins
is generally applicable. The following exceptions should be noted.
Cylinders 1934 and Earlier Motlels-These were originally supptied
with tapered bore w'ith the top end approximately .005" smaller. than the
lower end. With rare exceptions, it wiII be found that all of these models
have been finished out oversize to a straight bore as standard on all 1935
and later models.
It is recommended that when reboring or honing out 1934 and earlier
model cylinders, they should be finished out straight and fitted with the
later type pistons to the clearances listed under fitting specifications in
Section 2.
Straight Bore Standard Cylinder Sizes-Cylinders should be oversized
in even .010" steps over the sizes listed below:-
21" Singles ..................2.875"
45" Twins ....................2.745"
30.5" ,singles ..............3.093"
74" and 80" Twins ....3.422"
Con-rod Fiston Pin Bushings A number of lengths of con-rod pin
bushings are used depending on type of piston. Note that pin bushings
should have a,t least {zz" side play between pin bosses and p'iston.
Mainshaft B,ight Sitle Crankca.se Bushing-A bronze right side main-
shaft bushing is used on all 1936 and earlier models. This should be
replaced when worn to .006" or more shaft clearance. Crankcase should
be heated for removal and refitting bushing.
New bushi4gs are supplied undersize bore and with thrust shoulder
over width. Before installing, bushing shoulder should be turned down in
Iathe to width of old bushing shoulder if flywheel endplay was satisfactory,
or the amount thicker that it is desired to take up in endplay. Shaft
shoutd be polished down wlth emery cloth or reg'round to true up. Bushing
will contract approximately .002" on insertion, and it is, therefore, per-
missible to finish shaft dowl as much as .004" under bushing bore size,
if necessary to true up.
Heat crankcase for installing bushing. Peg bushing as orig'inal or
drill 6Az" hole and tap ryrr" thread through flange into crankcase. Screrv
in L(hz" screw tight, cut off with chisel and punch over. This is important,
as otherwise, bushing may start to turn in crankcase. Dril1 oil feed hoie
and ream or hone bushing after installation to give shaft .002"-.0021.i"
clearance.
Right Bushing Loose in Crankcase-A bushi-ng found loose ln crank- --\
If motor is run some distance with ioose bushing,
case should be replaced.
crankcase hole may require trui4g up and an oversize outside diameter
bushing made up. Bushing should be .003"-.004" larger than crankcase
hole. If standard bushing is slightly loose, having outside "knurled" to
swell diameter, approximately .005"-.006" will often make a satisfactory
repair.
Tirning Gear Fibre Washers-1r6+" and 1,42" fibre washers are available
for controlling timing gear side play. Timing gears should be a free fit
with timing cover tightened, This should be checked before fitting cylin-
ders. Excessive timing g'ear endplay is a common cause of motor noise cn
these models.
An accurate check on timing gear side play can be made by removing
the tappet guides (heat crankcase first) and then assembling right fly-
wheel shaft with gear, all timing gears, timing case gasket and cover.
It is possible to check gear side play when cover is tightened, through
tappet guide openings. Normally, it is sufficient to just make certain
MOTOR SERVICING 577
"that timing gear endplay is not taken up to the point where there is
noticeable ltiftness after tightening cover screws when motor is revolved
by sprocket.
. Generator Gea,r Mesh-See notes on page 570 which will apply equally
t
to the 1930-1936 Twin models.
Fl5,rsr1r"", Shaft Timing Gear Removal-If a suitable puller is not
available, after removal of left crankcase, right crankcase can be supported
and drift applied to right end of flywheel shaft. As an alternative, after
left crankcase is removed, left crankpin nut can be removed. This is
sometimes most easily done by use of hamrner and punch w'hen assembly
cannoL be rigidly mounted. Flywheels can then be separated by driving
I
a laqge wedge or chisel between flywheels near crankpin. Right flywheel
shaft nut can be undone, and then the shaft driven out of right flywheel,
through crankcase. Gear can then be easily removed from shaft by
slipping the shaft through vice jaws, resting the gear on vice and driving
i shaft out of gear.
I
Con-rods-On early models the forked con-rod is the front
and the plain con-rod is the rear.
(d) L929 and Earlier 61" and 74" Twins

Inlet Over Exhaust Valve Tyre Motors
Inlet Valvo Cages-Rocker support and valve cag:e are secured in
cylinder block by ring nut. To remove, slacken ring nut with a blunt
punch, anti-clockwise, remove cage locating grub screw and inlet valve
cage complete can be lifted from head. If stuck, soak with penetrating oil
and compress exhaust valve spring, remove collar retaining pin and tap
up on exhaust valve stem and exhaust valve head will lift the inlet c4ge
out of block.
Inlet valves-seat angle is 30 degrees. Exhaust valves and all other
Harley valves are 45 degrees.
Inlet Valve Guides-1925-1929 models are a press fit into cage and
press out from bottom through top and are easily removed with the usual
double diameter drift.
7924 arld, earlier type inlet guides identified by the hexagon shoulder
are a screw fit in cage, soak in penetrating oil before attempthg removal,
unserew anti-clockwise, right-hand thread.
I Inlet Valve Grinding In-As no screwdriver slot is provided in head,
I
this is best accomplished by a suction cup tool or a stem gripping type
valve grinding tool.
t trnlet Valve Cage Refitting-Carbon removal ahd exhaust valve re-
assembly will first be done. Note that Yalve. ca8:e seatiqg is clean and
cage reiitted so that inlet openings are towards inlet manifold and the
locating screw notch registering with block screw hole. Turn locating
screw in sufficient to locate and tighten ring: nut securely, then retighten
locating screw. Note that if cylinder inlet cage threads become stripped
an oveisize nut can be procured and hole rethreaded oversize.
Exhaust Valves-Removal of inlet cage is necessary before exhaust
valves can be withdrawn. Valve seat angie is 45 degrees.
578 HI.RLEY-DAVIDSON SERVICING
Exhaust Va,lvo Guide-A removable bronze bush is fitted at the lower

end of block guide. This can be tapped out and new one pressed in when
replacement is required.
Ya,lvo Ta'ppet Clearances-Inlet, .002"; exhaust, .008". Note that inlet
tappet adjustment is located at top end of pushrods.
Pistons-If the original type are not available the later type pistons
can be used by machining' Trc" off the bottom of skirts. Note that the
1930-1936 74" type is suitabie for the earlier 74" motors and th€ 1937 and
later type 74" pistons can be used in the early 61" motors.
It should be noted that the rod pin bushi4g width will have to be cut
down if the later model pistons are beir\g used. Cut off equaly on each side
to give a/az"-1,h" side clearance between piston bosses
MOTOR, DISMANTLING
Removal of right gas tank wilt perrnit valve grinding to be done with-
out removing motor or cylinders. If valve grinding is done without cylinder
removal it is important that eare be taken to avoid valve grinding: com-
pound working down into cylinder and that all traces of compound are
wiped away before reassembly.
For piston ring replacement or further motor repairs, it is necessary
to remove the complete motor from frame a;s cylinder removal is not
possible in frame. This is a very straightforward iob.
Crankshaft Timing Gear Cap Screlv-Note this is left hand thread
and turn clockwise to undo. Gear is a press fit on straight shaft with key.
Generator Gear Nut-This is left hand thread. Gear fits on tapered
shaft with keY.
Ill. 233
VALI'E AND BRE.{THER Tt\If\C

Ir-A.Rr(S 19?9 AliD E^.l,RLmR 61
alrD t{ T$ass
Note that marked tooth on clankshaft
pinion No. 6 engages s'ith cam gear
'@ No. 3 at mark No. 7. f,Iark No. 8
should engage s'ith intermediate gear
as shos'n. This will giye correct valve
timine,.
Breather timing is correct when gear
No. 5 is engaged so that marked tooth
registers s'ith the 't A " mark on crank-
case as shown at No.4.
T
(e) 125 c.c. Z-stroke Motor
This motor unit, like the B.S.A. 725 c.c. is patterned on continental
European design, and accordingly, servieing details are similar. Reference
should be made to the B.S.A.725 c.c. Model Servici4g on pages 226-233,
which will be found largely applicable. The chief differences on the Harley-
Davidson 725 c.c. model are the primary drive and generator layout,
these being on the opposite sides to the B.S.A. Details applying especially
to the Harley-Davidson 725 c.c. model, are listed.
Cylinder Bore Size-This is 2.0625" (52.39 mm.)
IGNITION TIMING 579
Spark Plug Gap-Set to .025"-.030".

Breaker Point Gap-Set to .020" with points fully opened.
Ignition Timing-Breaker points should just cornmence to open when
piston is 7Az" before top of stroke. To adjust timing, slaeken the two
breaker plate securing screws and rotate breaker point as-sembly as
required.
Catburetor-A needle jet type carburetor, similar to the Amal light
weight type, is used. Mixture is adjusted by changing position of needle
clip securing needle to throttle, Locating needle in a lower position
weakens mixture, and raising position of needle richens mixture, fdling
speed is regulated by outer control cable adjuster located at top of car-
buretor; screwing out increases idling speed, and screwing in reduces.
Generator-A 6-vo1t 2-brush type generator is used with voltage
regulator. Negative battery terminal is grounded. Green wire from gen-
erator connects to field terminal on regulator, red wire to gen. terminal.
Section 4
IGNITION TIMING
Ignition Timing-1929 and Earlier 6L,, amd, 74,, Twins (Generator
Equipped)-After instalring gears as shown on pag.e bzg giving correct
valve timing, have generator gear fitted and nut tigfrtenJO, (Ieft hand
thread), but do not install the double gear that meshes with generator g.ear
yet. clean and set breaker points to give ,022" full open, adlvance coniror,
turn generator drive gear in running' direction (inti-clockwise) until
I\. 234
BBEAXER ASSDMBLY A}ID TIMING

1930-1936 S.V..TWINS
Breaker point gap is adjusted by slacken_
ing.contact plate screws, No, E. moving
s-tationary contact plate No. B to glvE
.022" fu1l open gap and retightening. -
Marks No.- 1 tndicate original timing set_
ting to adyance, slacken screws N"o. 12
and turn breaker assembly against cam
rotalion, to retard turn with cam rotation
and retighten.
When -cleaning and adjusting points at
2000-mile intervals, check tlghtness of
condenser terminal nuts and ground screw.
breaker points are opened about .010"-.012" (about t/2 fltll opening) on
the narrow end of cam; hold generator gear in this position and rotate the
double gear until it slips into mesh readily.
Timing can be checked on piston movement if the inlet valve cages
are removed. Breaker points should just commence to break on the narrow
cam when the front piston is approximately {6" before top of compression
strohe and points should just break on the w"ide cam when the rear piston
is before top of compression stroke.
716"
Ignition Timing-Magneto Equippetl Twins-By assembling all gears
with marks registering, timi4g will normally be correct. It is advisable
to check timing on piston movement, first set breaker points to .015"
gap fully open, advance control. Note that breaker points just commence
to separate on each piston at V16" bef.oxe top of compression stroke. On
"V" Twin type magnetos with pickups or breakers stamped
"1" is the rear cylinder cam and pickup for rear spark plug. "2" is front
cylindercam and pickup for front spark plug.
,9;
h
$
I]L 235
IGNITION TI}IING 193711951 MODEf,S
1. Clem breaker points md set to .O22tt ftlly open gap by slaekening contact plate screws
(2) and moving stationary point plate (3) as required, retighten screws.
2. Revolve motor slowly until the flywheel timing mark appeals ia centre of timing hole
on left crankcase (1) with front piston otr compression stroke (both va.lves closed).
3. Breaker points should be iust separating with the control arm in the fully advancetl
position, on the narrow cam, if not, slacketr breaker arm band screw anal revolve breaker
head so that points are just separating on narow cam. The mark on cm will register
approximately with breaker am fibre when timing is correct.
4. Marks (4) on breaker head. and baDd register on orig:inal factory timing antl timing
will be approximately correct with these marks in line uuless breaker drive Eear mesh has
beeu changed.
\::
CARBURETOR SERVICING 581
Section 5
CARBUEETOR SERVICING
Reference should be made to Chapter 4, "Maintenance," pages 148-151,
for servicing details of Linkert and Schebler carburetors used on all 'tV"
Twin models. Reference should also be made to Section 5 of Chapter 19,
"Indian Servicing," whieh contains views of carburetor construction and
assembly.
Linkert Carburetor Assembling-Points to W'atch-The centre spray
nozzle jet must fit up through the hole in the venturi. Note that the
venturi is correetly fitted. The spray nozzle hole ls closest to end of
venturi towards choke. Do not overlook fitting spring under spray nozzle
before fitthg float bowl bottom nut.
If the low speed needle has been removed, note that the shouldered
washer which forms the spring 6eat on the carburetor body, below the
spring that operates ag:ainst the needle lift lever, is fitted. If this shouldered
washer is missing, it wiU allow excess air to be drawn down past the low
speed needle, completely upsetting the low speed mixture.
Throttle Valve I)isc-This should not be removed unless necessary.
If it has been removed note that it is correctly refitted, The number,
usually No. 12 or No. 13, should be on the right side of the throtUe shaft,
when lookiqg at the earburetor flange with the throttle in the closed
position. Before tightening the throttle shaft screws, push up on the
bottom of the throttle shaft and push throttle disc fully closed.
Throttlo Shaft Top Lever Refitting-Hold throttle disc fully shut.
Slacken off idling adjusting tscrew. Press down lever to compress spring,
then tighten screw that secures lever to shaft with lever in closed position.
After refitting carburetor, to make sure that the throttle cable closes the
throttle fu]ly, slacken throttle cable securing screw on lever, hold throtile
lever shut and open throttle very slightty so that cable moves through
nipple about 7Aa"-1h". Then retighten cable screw. This will ensure that
the throttle cable will close throttle fully.
Location of Float Bowl-Standard location of float bowl is with the
float valve and g'as union located between choke lever and the high speed
needle; that is, to the front and slightly to the left on all side valve motors.
On later type O.I{.V. models, float bowl is peg located to earburetor body
so it cannot be incorrectly refitted.
fitting earburetor, it is good policy to turn upside down and
Before
try blowing through the float bowl gas connection to make sure that
float needle is shutting off properly. When carburetor is turned to right
side up position, it should be possible to blow up from below through float
valve, indicating that float is lowering without catching on carburetor
body.
rnlet Manifold Air Leakage-The most common cause of difficulty in
obtaining a satisfactory idling adjustment is air leakage at the carburetor
manifold flange joint, or manifold cylinder nipple joints. Air leakage can
easily be detected at these joints by filling an oil squirt ean with gas
and squirting over joints with motor idting. rf appreciable air leakige
exists, noticeable change in idli4g speed will occur-. If tightening does
not cure leakage, dismantle and replace flange gasket. If leakage is at
manifold cones and tightening does not rectify, replacement o1 cones
should be made.
582 IIARLEY-DAVID,SON SERVICING
Section 6
GEARBO& CLUTCHES AND CHAINS

45" Gearbox Servicing, 1941-1951 TlTe
Lubrication-Engine oil same grade as used in engine is the correct
lubricant. Oil level should be checked every 1000 miles or oftener if neces-
sary. Note-There is no oil drain plug' on this type of transmission; how-
ever, it is not normally necessary to change oii except when a seasonal
change in I'rade is required. Oi1 can be drained by removing the filler
plug and leaning the machine well over on the right side, The 1941-1951
type transmission has a capacity s1 s/a pint, earlier types Yz pint. Fill to
top of fiiler opening'. Note-Avoid over-tightenir\g of filer plug. If a fibre
washer is fitted on this plug, difficulty with plug sticking will be eliminated.
Gear Rod Adjustmeut-This is occasionally necessary whe4 gear lever
strikes the end of gate before low gear is engaged or at the other extreme
when gear lever strikes end of, gate before high gear is fuily engaged. To
correct, disconnect rod end from lower end of lever and unscrew rod end
slightly if trouble is experienced with fully engaging in lo'w gear or screw
rod end on slightly farther if lever is striking gate before high ,gear is
engaged. In extreme cases, it may be necessary to extend rang'e of move-
ment by filing out gate ends or filing down gear shift lever. Gear rod joints
should be examined for excessive slack in such cases.
Servicing Requirements-Servicing involving dismantling and reassem-
bling of this type of transmission is very seldom required in normal service
until mileages of over 50,000 have been covered. Only in rare cases will
replacements be required sooner. Replacements most usually required are:
(a) Countersha.ft (shaft kickstarter is mounted on) usually resulting
from breakage in accident damag'e,
(b) Shifter clutches and shifter forks (need for these replacements
usually indicated by persistent slippi4g out of gear).
(s) Oil seals (indicated by need to refill gearbox at intervals more
frequent than 500 miles).
(d) Einal drive sprocket. (Note-This sprocket wears rather rapidly
and often jequires replacement at as frequent as 15,000-mile
intervals).
Owners are advised against dismantling this type of traflsmission
unless it is absolutely necessary and unless having a fair degree of
mechanical ability, are well advised to only have this job done at a reliable
motorcyele shop with experience on this unit.
Dismantling Procbdure 1941-1951 45" Gearbox

1. Removal of complete transmission is not normally essential but
facilitates complete overhaul. Dismantling of clutch and removal of clutch
hub is not necessary unless servicing of drive gear bearing is required.
2. Removal of battery box is necessary to gain access to top of gear-
box, whether complete assembly is to be removed or not.
GEARBOX, CLUTCHES AND. CHAINS 583
3. If complete transmission is to be removed, remove the following-

left footboard and clutch pedal assernbly, outer chain I'uard, engine
sprocket (use puller or give sprocket a sharp rap with drift near outer
edge after removing nut), inner chain guard screws securing'to motor,
battery box, clutch release cable with tube, and shifter rod. After removing
the bottom stud nuts lift the transmission slightly at rear to permit
removal of adjusting screw,
4. Remove g'earbox top cover plate. (Note-The condition of gearbox
gears, shifter forks, etc., can be readily examined when cover plate is
removed.)
5. Remove kickstarter pedal.
6. Remove sprocket cover.
7. Remove gearbox end cover. Note-It is necessary to undo the nuts
on the inside ends of the two lower front studs. These shouldered studs can
then be taken out or come off with the cover. In some instances it will be
found that the chain has been rubbing on one of the upper stud's cutting'
grooves into it, making' it impossible for the cover to slide off, and in this
case it is necessary to unscrew the studs and take off w-ith the cover,
although normally the geareover slides off the two top studs. These top
studs do not have shoulders tightening against the cover as is the case
with the two lower front studs.
8. The shifter cam is removed by slackeni4g the small set screw
securing left side of shifter shaft, on top surface. There is a groove rn
the right end of shifter camshaft in which a screw driver can be engaged
to pry out the shaft to the right. In some cases it will be found that this
shaft is quite tight. If it cannot be removed by prying with an angle
screwdriver after heating case, the best procedure is to drill a l/att or
%.a" hole through the aluminum casting on the left side to line up with
the end of the shifter camshaft and tap out with a punch. After shaft
is removed, the shifter cam can be lifted away. Note:If difficulty is
encountered removing the camshaft when it is almost all the way out,
it is likely due to the spring pressure on the baII tocating device causing
the camshaft hub to catch in the groove at the end of shifter shaft.
Slackening off the spring'pressure on the locating ball screw wiII facilitate
removal. If this is done, be sure to reti,ghten spring pressure screw after
reassembling.
9. Remove shifter fork shaft, tapping out from left to right. When
this is removed, take care to lay out on bench with the shifter cams in the
original order. Note-Do not dismantle shifter fork and washer assemblies
unless it is necessary to replace one of the shifter forks. In this event
make sure that the washers are replaced in the original position. Do not
lose the rollers off the shifter forks that engage with the camshaft.
10. Removing Gears and Shafts-Note-Avoid loss of needle rollers.
Have a clean pan under transmission, After removal of the mainshaft and
gears, the countershaft and countershaft gear assembly can be removed.
Hold the countershaft gear on towards the left side end of countershaft
while the countershaft is pulled out. This will prevent the needle rollers
dropping out and this assembly need not be dismantled unless there js
need of parts replacement.
11. After removal of countershaft note that there is a small eoil spring'
in the end of countershaft and a larger coil spring that operates the starter
clutch.
12. Needlo Boller Specifications-There are four sets of needle roller

bearings. DirnenSions and locations are as follows:
Left side clutch gear bearing rollers 40- .725" dia. x sfi" long
Right side mainshaft bearing rollers 21 dia. x 5/s" long
Left side countershaft (kickstarter shaft) -.152"
bearing rollers ........................ 79 dia. x /s" long
-.152" dia. x V+"
Right side countershaft bearing roliers 24-,7!4" long
Note-Above specifications cover 1941-1948 45" gearboxes. On 1940 and
earlier models, 31-.152 dia. x 5/e" rollers are used on the clutch g:ear bear-
ing. A steel washer is fitted at each side of each set of the above rollers.
Gearbox Parts Examination 1941-1951 45" Models
Before reassembling, parts should be carefully examined to deterrnine

replacements required, particularly the points listed below.
Bearing Rollers-Replace if diameter measures .002" smaller than
standard. If oversize roilers are being fitted, make certain that circum-
ference clearanee is not completely taken up, if so, leave out one roller.
Plain Bushi4gs-Replace if worn to give over .005" shaft clearance.
Shifter Dog Clutches-Examine dogs for badly rounded corners. If
considerable trouble has been experienced with "jumping out of gear,"
worn dog clutches and possibly wear in the dog slots in the mainshaft iorv
gear (part No. 31) and wear on the clutch gear dogs may be responsible.
Close examination will usually reveal if replacement is necessary.
Shifter Forks-Examine for wear on shifter fork where fitting into
the slicling clutch g'rooves. Replace if noticeably worn or bent. Very
excessive wear and signs of heat on these forks is sometimes due to
excessive side pressure exerted by tendency to slip out of gear resulting
from rounded shifter clutch dogs and sometimes insufficient camshaft
loeating ball spring pressure.
Countershaft (Kickstarter Shaft)-Replacement should be made if
bent. A bend resulting from a spill is often followed by complete break-
age of shaft.
Starter Clutch-Examine the ratchet teeth, replace if appreciably worn.
Check condition of ratchet spring.
Shifter Arm a,nd Shifter Shaft-Occasionally the shifter arm (part
No. 68) loosens slightly on the shifter shaft, resulting in backlash in the
gear change. The best procedure to overcome this is to have the end of the
shaft and washer carefully spot welded to the shifter arm which can be
done without dismantling. l
Oil Seals-Excessive oil leakage may be due to defective oil seals

at one of the following points: Rear drive sprocket, kickstarter shaft
bushing or main clutch drive g:ear bearing'. If the gearbox oil level becomes
appreciably lower in less than 500 miles' operation, replacement of these
seals is advisable. Otherwise it can be considered that they are reasonably
satisfactory.
GEARBOX, CLUTCHES AND C IAINS 585
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Gearbox Reassembly 1941-1951 45" Models
After cleaning all parts, they should be laid out in two or three clean
metal pans to avoid loss and the assembly commenced. The parts layout
is shown in Illustration 225. Best method of locating gearbox is to stand
on end, left side down on vice, gripping the extension of the drive gear
bearing housing lightly in the vice jaws. Assembie as follows:
1. Thrust Ball Bea:ring-fnstall thrust bearin,g retainer and balls (part
No. 15) and thnrst bearing race (Part No. 14).
2. Drivo Gea,r Bearing Race-Smear with thick grease and fit in
washer (17) first, then forty rollers, Then stip in clutch drive gear (23).
If the special faetory tool for opening up the oil seal is not available take
extreme care not to damage the oil seal when pushing through the clutch
I'ear.
3. Assemblo Countersha,ft (5)-Note-That a washer is fitted into
countershaft g'ear at each end, then smear races with thick grease and
fit rollers, 79-.752x5/e, on the left side, and, 24-.714x/a o\ the right side.
tr'it washers on the outside ends of each of these roller assemblies.
4. Fit CountershaIt-This can now be fitted through countershaft gear
and bearing's. Push countershaft gear fully onto counter shaft as far as
it will go. Grasp the kickstarter end o,f countershaft and hold countershaft
gear on with thumb to prevent gear slippi4g off and rollers falling out of
place.
5. Starter Clutch Assembly-tr'it the smalt stiff spring (2) in the end
of countershaft, securing spring with thick grease. Slip on the starter
ratchet clutch (4). Note-That one spline is larger than the rest and it
will only fit one position. This can also be held on to the shaft by smearing
with thick g'rease,
6. Kickstarter Ratchet Spring (3)-Plaee in the gearcase surrounding
countershaft bushing.
7. Countershaft and Gear Assembly-Lower into the g'earcase. This is
entered easily directly over the rnainshaft large opening and then moved
over to line up with the countershaft bushing at the rear of left side of,
case. Hold the countershaft with the hotch for the kickstarter bolt at the
right end of shaft, directly to the rear. In this position the two "ears', on
the kickstarter ratchet clutch will clear the two ratchet diseng'agiqg screw
heads in the gearcase. During the remaining assembly leave the counter-
shaft in this position, that is with the kickstarter bott noteh facing to the
rear, viewing the transmission as when in the machine.
8. fnstall mainshaft thrust washer (24) in clutch gear (23). Secure
with thick grease.
9. fnstall shifter clutch for second and high gears (25).
10. fnstall mainshaft (33) with washer (32) fitted large gear (81),
shim washer (30), and second gear (29).
11. Shim Washe"s-Note-Washers No. 32 and No. 30 are sometimes
stuck to gears. Shim washer No. 30 should be stuck to gear No. 29 with
stiff grease when fitting
12. Install shifter clutch for low gear (34). (This shifter clutch has
dog's on one side only. fnstall on mainshaft with do,gs towards low gear.)
GEARBOX, CLUTCHES AND CHAINS 587
13. Thrust washer (35), fit on mainsha.ft.

14. Spacing collar (36), fit with flange out.
15, Assemble right side ma,inshaft bearing rollers (37) in bearing raee
in gearbox end cover. Smear race with thick grease. I.it 21 .752" dia. x 7e"
rollers, washer (38) on end of rollers.
16. Note-That rubber oil seal washer is fitted into recess in bushing
for countershaft (kickstarter shaft bushing in gearbox end cover). Gear-
box end cover can now be fitted on and tightened up. No,te-That kick-
starter bolt notch faces rearward during this operation. If cover does not
pull up with just moderate pressure on screws check for something wrohg'
in assembly. Note-That the spring pressure on the end of kickstarter
shaft and tJle oil seal rubber pressure on the mainshaft tend to lift the end
cover off, but if everything is in order, cover ean be pulled up with moder-
ate screwdriver pressure. Gasket should be fitted on end cover joint.
17, Countershaft rear drive sprocket should now be fitted and nut
tightened on a, few turns. This will just prevgnt any possibility of the right
end countershaft bearing rollers and washer droppi4g out.
18. Gearbox is now best placed in viee, elamping on one or more of the
base studs in the normal position before proceeding with assembly.
19. ['it Shifter Forks-Note when fitting that the peg's on top of the
shifter forks assemblies are both inwards and locate cam peg rollers with
thick grease.
20. Install shifter fork shaft, This pushes through from right side of
case,
21. fnstall and Timo Camshaft-It is important that this be timed
correctly with the shifter shaft gear. Note there is one tooth on the
camshaft gear which is chamfered. This tooth should engage at the mark
No. 3 on the shifter shaft gear. The camshaft has a slot in the rim at the
right side to enable it to be fitted over the aluminum projection inside the
gearbox on the right side. After fitti4g over this projection the camshaft
can be rotated as necessary. After engaging gears conectly slip shaft
through the shifter cam. Tap in fully and locate with a gtub screw on
top surface at the left side.
Final Checking of Gearbox Operation

Before fitting on the gearbox top coverplate or refitting gearbox to
frame, it is advisable to check for proper operatio,n of the gears. Proceed
as follows:
1. Adjust the camshaft locating ball spring pressure so that there is
a noticeable when each gear is engaged. Pressure is usually about
correct when about t1r" but not more t},ar:- Tte't of pressure adjusting screw
projects from the case. This screw is located at the front top right hand
corner of gearbox. Pressure should be sufficient so that shifter arm ca;n
just be moved from one gear to another by hand. Note-That it is neces-
sary to spin the drive gear shaft to move gears for satisfactory engagement
of dogs when testing for shifting. Note-?hat when shifting arm is in rear
position, that is as far back as possible, low gear is engaged. Next position
forward is neutral. In this position drive gear No. 23 should revolve without
turning mainshaft No. 33. Next position ahead is second and farthest
forward position-high. There is a stud in the gearbox on whieh nothing
is fitted. This is only u'sed where a reverse gear is fitted.on Servi-Car

machines. Likewise, the mark 'rR" on the shifter shaft gear can be dis-
regarded. This is only used on Servi-Car gearboxes. If gears appear to
operate satisfactorily, cover should be refitted.
Installing Gearbox in Frame

1. Note that before gearbox is tightened down, chain adjusting screw
should be fitted through the rear frame and entered into gearbox.
2. Tighten all end cover screws securely. Do not overlook nuts fitted
on the inside ends of the two front lower cover studs.
3. Before fitting kickstarter cover, make sure that the rear drive
sprocket securing nut is well tightened. Note that the two keys are fitted.
If gearbox has been refitted to frame, rear chain should be fitted and rear
brake applied and sprocket nut hammer tightened. If gearbox is not being
fitted to frame, this nut can be tightened satisfactorily in vice by jamming
sprocket with a small length of chain.
4. Tighten clutch hub nut securely.
5. It likely will be necessary to readjust g:ear rod. This should be
adjusted so that low gear eng'4ges fully before lever strikes froht end of
gear gate and so that high g:ear eng'ages fully before Iever strikes rear
end of gate. Adjustment is effected on front end of gear rod at attach-
ment to g'ear lever.
6. Fill gearbox with oil before starting up.
1941-1951 TSpe 45" Model Clutch Assembly-!'irst note that clutch
hub nut has been securely tightened and lock-u'asher folded over. Assemble
in following order:
1. X'ibre disc plate.
2. Steel plate. (Note side stamped "out" faces out.)
3. E ibre disc plate.
4. Steel plate.
5. F ibre lined sprung steel plate with fibre side in.
6. Clutch releasing plate.
7. 10 springs.
8. Spring pressure collar.
9. Three lock-washers and nuts.
10. Tighten spring stud nuts so tha,t collar inner edge measures 1962,,
from releasing plate. Pressure cau be increased by further tightening if
clutch slip is evident.
11, Adjust clutch centre screw to give r1""-yn,, control arm slack and
retighten locknut.
L934 antl Ea.rlier Singles a,nd 45t, Twin Gearboxes-Slipping out of
gear is a common trouble a,rrd is usually due to a worn sliding gear. If
jumping out of high gear only is experienced, worn dogs on clutch gear
or sliding gear may be the cause. When replacing sliding gear it is good
poliey to replace shifter fork and shifter fork bushing.
Spring pressure on shifter locating ball should be increased by turning
adjuster screw in until gearshift is noticeably stiff.
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trr 237
1941-1961 46I' ilIODEL CLUTCE PLATE ASSE}IBLY

Clutch parts are shom numbered in order of removal on dlsmanuing, Note that plates are
refitted in the order iUustrated. Clutch hub nut No. 12 must be securely tightened with
punch if special tool not available md lockwasher folded oy€r. Standard clutch spring
p-ressxre_is nuts No. 4 tightened so inner edge of plate No. 6 is 79A2,, fuom pressure plata
No. 8, Pressure should not be increased to give lesJthan 7s,, measui"e-ment. Aiter asse;bly,
adjust centre screw to give at least yB" free slack at end of operating arm with foot pedal
ln engaged position and tighten locknut.
When reassembling, do not overlook the stiff coil spring that fits into
the left end of kickstarter shaft and the light spring that fits behind the
kickstarter ratchet in gearcase.
Rean Drive Sprocket-Singles and early 4i,, models have only one
sprocket key. Unless correctly fitted, trouble will be experieneed with the
rear drive sprocket shearing off key on mainshaft. Examine mainshaft
taper before fitting. ff not in good condition ,'Iap,, sprocket on with
fine grinding compound, clean taper thoroughly, install a good fitting
key, make sure it does not project above shaft more than depth of sprocket
keyway, fit new Iockwasher and nut, engage gear and apply reai brake.
Hammer-tighten nut, using a good-fitting box socket; fold over lock-
washer. This applies to 45" and single models.
Clutch-1934 and Ea,rlier Singles and 45's-Dry fibre friction disc
type clutch is used with single spring. Replacement of friction discs is
occasionally necessary after long service. If plates are oily or glazed,
wash in gas and buff with emery cloth. Tighten clutch spring pressure
nut two full turns past point where clutch ceases to slip when cranking
motor.
590 HARLEY-DAVIDSON .SERVICING
I-936 and Earlier ?4" Twin Gearboxes-These are of simple sliding

gear construction, are very trouble free and are simple to service. Note
tnat rotrr the left side mainshaft hub nut and the real. drive sproeket nut
are left-hand thread. clutch hub is a taper fit on mainshaft. Replacement
of stiding gear and rear drive sprocket are all usually required after long
service,
When reassembling hammer-tighten clutch hub and rear d'rive
sprocket nuts.
1rg37-52 61" and ?4" Model Gearboxes-These are constant mesh type
using sliding dogs instead of sliding gear. No attention is normally
required if lubrication has been maintained. Note that clutch hub and rear
drive sprocket nuts are left-hand thread.
rlt, 238
CI,UTCE CONTROI] ADJUS{MENTS 1941-1951 45" MODELS

Parts numbered. are: No. 1, Control Cable outer casing tube; No. 21,,Control Cable; No. 10,
Reting tr'@tpedal; No. 4, spring Pressure Adjusting Nut (thlee) ; No. 5, Pressu.e Adjust'
ine Nu1 Locliwashers; N6. i, prerrroa Adj*ting screw; No. 3, Pushrod Ailjusting screw
Locktrut.
whenadjusting,tengthoffootpedalcontrolcabtesh.ouldbeadjustedatfroutendsothat
#ir:ti"fr,6"ie"aui'tutty-aown
-r"irr,j*i the operating am on gealbox clears the sprocket cover atud nut
t"- iX"". rirls gives thi best operating angle' Slacken locknut No. 3 and turn
ih:"Jii"i icleli No. Z to give at least th" free slack at end of cable at operating axm
with clutch Pedal fully engaBed.
1rS4L-52 6il' and ?4' Model Clutch-The assembly order is the same
as detailed und,er 1941-195L 45" type clutch assembly exeept that one more
fibre disc plate a.nd one more steel plate is fitted.
OiI working into this clutch may cause clutch drag or slip and when
this trouble develops that is not due to control out of adjustment,
dismantle and wash plates in gasoline.
Sudden complete failure of clutch to disengage may be due to a
broken release finger on right side of gearbox at bottom of clutch lever
arm. When replacing this finger, pushrod thrust bearing should be
examined and replaced if notieeably worn. Pack with grease when
reassembling,
Gear Shift Lbver Adjustments

When gearshift lever does not correspond to gear position in gate
w,hen gears are engaged or when difficulty is encountered in engaging
high or low gears, due to lever striking on end of g'ear lever gate before
engagement is made, adjustment should be made on the control rod.
Adjustment is usually only necessary after considerable wear has
taken place, after movement of the gearbox in adjusting front chain
and sometimes after refitting the tank,
The usual method is to select neutral, then slacken locknut on rod
forked end below lever, remove pin and turn either way as necessary
to bring gear lever to register with neutral position in gate. If, for
example, after this is done the lever strikes one end of the gate before
engaging low or high as the case may be, lengthen or shorten the control
rod adjustment slightly to bring the lever back from the end it strikes
until it permits engagement of gears before striking end of gate.
ff, due to wear in the gear ehang:e mechanism, the range of g.ear
Iever movement allowed by the gate is insufficient to enable both high
and low to be engaged without the gear lever first striking the gate at
one of these extremes of movement, there are a number of remedies;
(a) I-'ile the ends of gate to extendr range of movement and file the lever
at the point that travels in the gate to reduce its width and enable it to
move slightly farther before striking gate. (b) Check control joints for
wear and excessive slackness. Replacement of pivot pins may be necessary,
Chain Adjustrnents
Front Chaiq Singles anJl 45,, Tr,vins-Slacken gearbox mounting
stud nuts under gearbox (2 nuts on early Singles and 4b,,s and B nuts on
later models). Turn gearbox adjusting screw at rear of gearbox under
bottom of rear mudguard, clockwise to tighten chain and anti-clockwise
to slacken. Avoid excessive pressure on this adjusting screw, otherwise
it may be broken off. If gearbox does not slide readily, slacken stud
nuts further. Allow B/ett free up and down slack mid-way in chain at
t-ightest point. Retighten stud nuts securely. To avoid gearbox shifting,
due to rear chain pull, it is good policy to screw out adjuster to take up
slack after gearbox has been tightened down.
Front Chain, 6L", 74't and 80" Twins-Adjust as above. There are
4 gearbox mounting stud nuts directly under gearbox. Adjusting' screw
is located at lower right side of gearbox.
Rear Chain Adjustment, Early Motlels-Slacken both axle nuts,
brake anchorage bolt, and turn set screws in equally to give /a,, s\ack
in tightest point of chain mid-way between sprockets. Check wheel align-
ment with straight edge. Tighten axle nuts, set screw lock nuts and
brake anchorage bolt.
592 HARLE]Y.DAVIDSON SERVICING
ff considerable rear wheel movement has been made in adjusting,

rear brake adjustment may require altering; also on external drive type
speedometers, the drive gear clamp. on frame may require moving slightly
to bring into closer mesh with drive gear or sprocket on wheel, Speedo-
meter drive gear should mesh about la" depth at tightest point of mesh.
Bear Chain Adjustment, Llate Models-slacken the rear axle small
nut and the large nut securing the brake assembly on left side. Slacken
adjusting screw lock nuts. Turn screws in equally to give /a" slack
mid-way between sprockets at tightest point, and check wheel alignment.
Retighten brake assembly axle large nut first, then small axle nut,
retighten set screw locknuts.
Bear V9[reel Atignment-If care is taken to turn adjusting set screws
equally when adjusting chain, wheel alignment will not be affected. It
should be noted that on most models the rear wheel is not central in the
rear forks, the space between wheel and fork tubes on drive side being
greater. Wheel alignment is best checked with a straight edge board. A
seven-foot long 1x4 board blocked up about 4" from floor is very
suitable. Adjust chain screws as necessary to obtain contact at front
andr rear of both tires. As an alternative, a length of string: can be used.
If rear wheel alignment is to be corrected, this should be done first
before adjusting chain, tfreri if chain screws are moved an equal amount
in effecting chain adjustment, alignment \ /ill be maintained.
Section ?
ELECTRICAL SYSIEM
Batteries-6-vo1t batteries with negative terminal grounded have been
used in all Harley-Davidson models. When installing battery it is most
important to make sure that battery is correctly installed with negative
terminal grounded as on most types the battery can easily be installed the
wrong way around. On ammeter equipped mod,els a .,charge,, will be shown
on ammeter when lights are switched on instead of discharge if battery
is fitted with terminals reversed, but on 1928 ard earlier models and lgBT
and later machines not equipped with ammeter, the incorrect installation
may go unnotieed for some time.
Where battery has been in use for some time connected in reverse, it
is good policy to discharge completely then recharge fully on charger
before refitting to machine.
Battery Mounting-Battery should not be allowed to vibrate in case.
Fit- an additional rubber or plywood spacer at bottom of battery so clamp
tightens down on battery sufficiently to eliminate any movement in case.
Battery ferminals-Late models are fitted with felt pad on terminals.
These should be oiled when servicing battery, this rvill keep terminals
elean. X'elts can easily be made and fitted to earlier models. Where not
fitted, clean and tighten battery terminals at 1000-mile intervals and
grease to prevent eorrosion,
ELEiCTRICAL SYSTEM 593
Ammeter Conneatlons 1929-1936 Models-The ammeter is connected in

an unusual manner. The left ammeter terminal is grounded at the switch
panel, the right ammeter terminal is insulated arrd the wire from the
negative battery terminal connects to the insulated ammeter terminal. In
effect the battery is grounded through the ammeter afld all battery charge
or discharge sholvs on ammeter.
Cutout Connections 1986 antl Earlier Models-Wire from generator
relay terminal connects to cutout "Gen." terminal on cutout; cut out "Bat."
terrninal connects to positive battery terminal.
193? ailal Later Cutout (Eelay) Terminals-Wire from generator relay
terminal connects to single cutout terminal. Wire from lower terminal of
cutout double terminal end marked "Bat." connects to No. 1 switch ter-
minal which is the positive battery terminal.
Note the top cutout terminal connects to wire from left panel (green)
signal light. When the main cutout points close when generator starts
eharging, the additional set of points for the panel signal light open and
break the ground eircuit for the panel signal light. Light should go out at
speeds over a fast idle or 20 m.p.h. in high gear when generator should
be charging,
fgnition Coil High-Tension Wiro Repkicement-Perished high-tension
wire insulation at coil outlet is a common cause of misfiring due to
short circuiting, especially during wet weather operation or when
machine is started up after standing in rain.
On late models, without removable coil end, and with wires secured
with nipple nuts and rubber packing washers, to replace wires proceed
as follows: Warm coil slightly by leaving ignition switch on with breaker
points elosed, for about 15 minutes, have two lengths of high tension wire,
(7 mm.) of adequate length at hand, slacken and remove the coil wire
nipple nuts, washers and rubber sealing gla-nd, pulI out otd, wires one at
a time and immediately install new wire. Note that wires pass through
a tar filling, in coil, to their contact points, new wires should be dipped
vr gas and fitted immediately after old wires are withdrawn to ensure
easy fitting. It is good policy to chamfer the end of the new wire to be
fitted and note that new wire fits full distance into coil as old wire. If
new wire does not fit right down onto contact in coil a weak spark
may result. Refit rubber sealing gland, washer a"nd nipple nut and tighten.
Car type distributor wire rubber nipples should be fitted on eoil wires
over sealing nuts as additional protection against ignition trouble when
wet.
On early models the coil end plate is removable and the tar filling
can be removed from around wire terrninals with a hot knife, old wires
screwed out and new one fitted. Repack tar to make watertight and
refit eover.
Gonerators
Generator Maintenrance-Harley-Davidson generators are extremely
reliable a.rtd seldom require any attention in under 20-30,000 miles of
service. Dismantling generator is not recommended uatil need of bearing
replacements or commutator turning or other repairs necessitating
dismantling.
Bearings-Self-contained non-adjustable ball bearings are used. These

are a Iight press fit on shafts and in housings. Replacement should be
made when noticeable straight up a.rrd down shake is evident (.004" or
more).
Brushes-Replace when worn to li.e" or less length. Note brushes are
installed correctly with pointed end, at pointed end of brush holder.
Bearing Lutrrication-If packed with high melting point grease no
additional lubrication is normally required between overhauls. Drive side
bearing usually receives some oil mist lubrication from motor.
Charging Output rAdjustment-Al t)'pes have adjustable third brush.
Moving the adjustable (narrow) brush with the rotation of armature
increases output and against rotation clecreases output.
1930 and Later Type Field Coils-One field coil, energized from the
positive brush is normally in use when ignition only is on. When lights are
turned on the other field, coil is energized direct from the battery, via Iight
switch; this increases output to approximately balance the light draw.
1930 anal La,ter T5,pe Terminals-The "relay" terminal connects to
cutout and is internally connected to the positive brush. The
terminal connects to switch Iight terminal and is energized from battery
when lights are turned on energizing the extra shunt field coil.
Generator Dismantling-1929 a,ntl Earlier-Note that drive gear
armature shaft nut is left-hand thread. Gear is tapered fi.t on shaft.
Generator Dismantling 1930 and Later T;pe-Remove armature com-
mutator end nut, slacken body screws at drive end a few turns and. give
sharp raB with hammer on end of screw heads. This will free the brush
frame end from main generator body. After driving out drive gear pin
and removing gea,r, release brush springs and armature can be withdrawn
from commutator end.
When reassembling, note that spacing washers between armature
commutator end and baII bearing must be sufficient to give commutator
shoulder clearance from brush holders.
Body Screws-To undo tight screws, insert heavy screwdriver and
give a few sharp blows on end with hammer. When retightening body
screws, tighten very securely.
1930-31 45" Motlels, 1930 antt Later Singles-Brush assembly and
circuits are the same as late type Illustration No. 239, exeept the Shunt
field coil is grounded inside of the generator body instead of at the
ground brush holder.
1929 anal Earlier Generator Brush and ['ield Connections-Brush
assembly is similar to late type Illustration No. 239. Wire from Positive
( * ) brush connects direct to Relay (cutout), but both fields are in
operation at all times being in series circuit, from Positive (+) brush to
narrow Regulating brush. Output is increased by moving Regulating
brush in direction of rotation, or against rotation to reduce output.
Generator Drive Gear Mesh Adjustrnent-Shim paper washers are
used under generator body against crarlkcase to give required perceptible
baeklash between generator gear and driving gear. No adjustment is
normally necessary if original number of shims are refitted, until
considerable wear has developed. After adjusting, note that with generator
clamp band nut tightened, and generator drawn up against end joint by
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 595
fitting the two timing case cover serews and fitting %e" nuts under heads
as spacers and tightening, prior to fitting timing cover, that gears do
not bind at any point and have just perceptible backlash.
TO LIGHT.SWITCH,
FIELD WIRE TO POSITIVE BRUSH.

HOLDER IN
CONTACT WITH
RELAY TERMINAL
FIELD WIRE TO
REGULATI NG SWIICH POST
FIELD COIL
IDENTIFIED BY
ORANGE PAINT
f,imr FIELD WIR E
FIELD WIRE SHUNT FIELD COIL

TO 3 RD.
IDENTIFIED BY
WHITE PAINT MARK
IIl. 239
GENEBATOE BBUSE AltD FIEI.D CONIIIEOTIONS 1932-1951 TIYIN MODELS

Note that tho main regulatlng field coil circuit which is iu operatiotr at al1 times is from
Positive brush (+) to the nauov/ regulaung 8rd brush.
The shunt fielat coil circuit is from teminal on generator body laaxketl
Negatiw brush ( ). This @il is energized from the battery via the light switch when
-
lights ar€ on, increasing output.
The Positlve ( + ) brusb is connecteal alirectly to the relay (cutout) teminal on generator
body via brffis mounting Plate.
HAIiLEY-DAVIDSON 1932.1952 GENER,ATOR FARTS
(.4.s illtrstrated ou pago 596)
Irr
I11.
No. Part No.
1- Drive Gear Pin 26. Lock Washer
i. o.iu" Cear tS V. trlodels) Nut
2A. Drive Gear (O.H.V. Models) 28. Shunt Field Coil Terminal
3. Spring Terminal Screw
4. Oil Deflector 30. Shunt Fielal CoiI Terminal fnsulation
5. Drive End Bearing (large) 31. Brush Ifolder
6. Spring Ring Terminal Screlv
?. Felt Oit Retainer (Same Positive Brush Holder Insulation
8. Frame End Screw(Same as Item 12) Brush
9. Pole Shoe Screw as Item 11) JO. External Terminal Bolt
10. Frame 36. Terminal Bolt Bushing
11. Pole Shoe Screw fnsulating I'asher
12. Frame End Screw Lock Washer
13. Shunt Field Coil (White identification 39. Nut
mark) 40, crease Retainer, Inner
74. Pole Shoe (Same as Item 16) 47. Gasket
15. Armature Commutator End Bearing
16. Pole Shoe Spacing Shim (.020")
77. Regulating Field Coil (Orange identifi- 44. Slring Ring (1il16" diameter)
cation mark) 45. Bearing Housing
18. Armaturo Steel Spacer (.025") 46. Lock Washer
19. Armature Bakelite Washer Armature Shaft Nut
20. Armature Steel Spacer (.072") 48. Thi.al (Regulating) Brush (Small)
21. Frame End Terminal Screw
Terminal Screw (Same as Items 29, 50. Third (Regulating) Brush Holaler
32 and 49) 51. Gasket
23. Brush Holder (Same as ltem 31) 52. crease Retainer, Outer
24. Brush (Same as Item 34) Screw (Same as Item 55)
25. Brush Holder Bolt 54. End Cover
55. Screw
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EABruY-DAI|IDSON 1932-1952 GDNERATOR PABTS ASS.EMBLY

(gee previous page for llst of names of parts numbered above)
E,LECTRICAL SYSTEM 597
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598 HART.TTY-DAVID,SON SERVIC]NG
1937-1952 IIAR,LEY-DAVIDSON WIRING
(Nubers shom on III. 241)
1. Switch terminal, red wire from relay (cutout) terminal, red wire from frame terminal
post uder saddle, connect to pos. battery terminal.
2. Switch terminal, 3 wires connected, green from Gen. "Switch" terminal, black to
pmel light, red to headlight dipswitch terminal block No. 15.
3, Swltch terminal, no wires fltted standard, can be used for parking lights to operate
independent of headlights.
4. Swltch terminal for tail light and front fender light where fitted..
5. Wire to signaJ. lamp terminal No. 8.
6. Generator signal lamp teminal, black wire to top cutout terminal.
7. Oil pressure signal lamp terminal, black wire from oil signal switch.
8. Signal lamp terminal,4 wires-black wire to No. 5 switch teminat, black wire from
left signal lamp, green wire to coil, green wire to horn.
9. Speedometer puel light wire to switch terminal No. 2.
10. Positive battely terminal to No. 16 frame termlnal to No. l switch terminal.
11. Negatiye battery teminal, grounded to frame.
12. eenerator "switch', termlnal.
13. Generator relay (cutout) terminal.
14. Oil pressure sitnal switch.
15. rnsulated terminal post for headlight diplite switch centre B'ire and s'ire from No. 2
switch teminaJ.
16. Insulated terminal post frame under saddle joining wile from pos, battery terminal to
red wire from No. l switch terminal.
17. rnsulated terminal in motorcycle frame under saddle joining black tail light wire to
black wiro from No.4 switch terminal.
18. Switch for opening stoplight circuit in green wire from coil terminal to stoplight.
19. Stoplight switch.
20, Tall light.
21. stoplight. (Note: rltustration shows separate tail md stop lights, nomaily a double
filament bulb is used in a combined tail-stop tight.)
22. Front fender light.
23. Headlamp, two wires from dipswltch as shown.
24. Top view of switch in "off,, posltion (centre), left for parking lights, first right position
ignition only, second right posiuon tgnition and lights.
F'ORKS, X'RAME AND WHEELS 599
Section 8
FOB,KS, FRA1UES AND WHEELS
Ifydra-Glido Forks (Telescopic)
These forks are fittect to the 1949 and later 61"'74" Twin models,
and the 7952 45" Model K.
Fork oil should be changed every 5000 miles. Remove the hex. head
cap screw at the top of each fork leg:, and drain screws at the bottom
of each leg. These require a. Vta" allen wrench. After forks are drained,
replace drain screws, tighten securely and pour 6a/z to 7 ounces of oil
into ea,ch leg. If the manufacturer's special fork oil is not available, use
S.A.E. No. 10 motor oiI, or for extreme heat, S.A.E. No. 20. Refit cap
screw rubber seal and cap screw, tightening securely.
Steering Damper-The steering damper equipment on the Hydra-Glide
forks differs from thd earlier type in that damper tightens in a clockwise
direetion instead of anti-clockwise.
Front Forks-Bottom Link TYPe

Steering Head Bearing AdjustmenL-This should be checked about
every 5000 miles. Excessive play can be noted by placing a block under
motor to hold front wheel off 8:round and grasping front forks and
movihg' back and forth. Alternatively if front brake is applied and machine
rocked back and forth, excessive head beariqg slack will be easily noted.
To adjust, slacken steering stem lock nut, pry up locking plate, slacken
handlebar fork securing bolts and tap up on bars to free adjusting cone'
tighten adjusting eone down tight, then back off about %o turn, tap
handlebar back down, tap down cone lock plate and retighten top locknut.
Steering Damper Atljustrnent Note this tightens anti-clockwise.
Damper should start to apply about- 45 degrees from handlebars. To take
up slack, slacken damper rod top nut and tighten nut below, retighten top
locknut.
Fork Spiring Shock Absorber Friction Damper (Ricle Control)-Note
that this damper tightens clockwise. It is easily overtightened-light thumb
and finger pressure is usually sufficient. After adjustment, lift up and
down on handlebars. It should still be possible to make fork springs oper-
ate. l'or moderate speed riding, smoothest operation is obtained with
damper just about completely slackened. Tighten slightly for high speed
operation and rough roads. Avoid overtightening as, if fork is locked solid,
road holding will be badly affected.
Front Fork Alignment-If front forks have been bent as result of
accident, when straightening, a steel rod fitted through the steering stem
can be used to check alignment. Bottom end of main forks should be
spaced equal distance on each side of centre rod and fork stud holes should
be centred with the rod through steering head.
SIDE VIEW STRAIGHT WITH CENTER LINE
THESE ENDS
SPACED TO FIT
HANDLEBARS
-;I
l-__:---=r-
7 /t_ lN. DlA. x 29-1/2 tN. LG.

STRAIGHT ROD
3-23132 tN.
Irr. 242
EAR,LEY.DAVIDSON F'ORtr AI,IGNIIIENT CHECI( METEOD
A 146" gteel rod placed throuBh steering stem as illustrated enables a quick check on fork
aJlgnment to be made. Th6 dimensions shown apply to 1937 and later models.
When checking alig"nment or straightening, the handlebars and ttre top stem nut should be
fltted to ensuro correct altgnment at top end of forks. Two additional steel rods can be
used to advmtage, one placed through fork end axle holes, other across forks resting on
fork side tubes rear top end, at right angles to stem. These rods should be paraUel.
Stralghtening should be done cold. Moderately bent forks can be satisfactorily stBighteDed
ln a press with steel and hardwood blocks, Unless steel b1@ks fomed to fit tubing are
avatlable, hardw@d btocks should be used where possible to ayoid kinking tubing.
A steel rod placed through the fork rocker stud holes should be
parallel with a rod laid across the top of forks resting on tubes where
handlebar bracket clamps. See Ill. 242.
Fork Rocker Studs and Bushings-Replacement is advisable when
clearance exceeds .010". Bushings are a press fit in rockers. Be sure to
tighten stud fork securing nuts very securely.
Twtst Grip Controls-To remove, unscrew end screw plqgs. .If very
tight, soak with penetrating oil. Support handlebar and rap end of screw
plug with hammer, then use blunt punch and hammer to start screw.
Grip Entl Play-Excessive twist grip end play is most easily removed
by filing end of handlebar. Elnd of bar should project only .005"-.010" past
twist grip sleeve.
Replacement of sliding block and spiral roller will help to remove lost
motion in control. Grease well on assembly and tighten end plug nuts
securely.
Removing Twist Grip Control Cablo Casings-A small grub screw for-
ward of twist grip sleeve end shoulder requires removal from haudlebars
when cable casing: can be removed from outside end of bars.
F'ORKS, T'RAME AND WHEELS 601
Satldlo Pivot Afiustment-When noticeable side play develops at

front pivot bearing, slacken pivot bolt locknut, tighten fully, slacken
about 16 turn and retighten locknut. Side clearance should be no more
than sufficient to provide free saddle action.
2 3 4
ut" 243
@g
SEAT POST SPN,ING AD.TUSTMANT
To adjust_ seat post spring pressure, raise saddle, remove spring p6t bottom nut under
trame _ ild withdraw spring trrcst assembty. Slackan adjusting locknut No. 2 and tighten
aoJus^ting nut No. 1 to increase pressure or slacken to reduce and retighten l@knut. Nut
No. shou.ld be locked to nut Nb. 4 with about %,, of threads extending so that bottom
n-ut -3_
No. 5 can be fitt€d on fully. Sprlng co;bin;ti6"s avaitabte for liEhter and heayier
than average loads. "re
Tlrheels
Boar Wheel Removal-singles and Early Model Twins-slacken wheel
axls nufs, remove brake rod clevis pin, brake anchorage bott and remove
chain clip and link.
Befitting-Be sure to fit chain link clip correctly with closed end in
direetion of rotation, fit and tighten brake anchorage bolt, fit brake clevis
pin and cotter and tighten rear axle nuts securely, checking chain adjust-
ment and wheel alig'alment.
Bear Wheel Removal 1930-1936 74" a,nll E0,, Twins-Remove axle nut,
pull out axle, remove axle frame to hub spacer and wheel can be pulled
off brake drum splines and removed. Note that one spacer only is used on
models equipped with rear hub speedometer drive ahd two spacers on other
models. Brake and chain sprocket assembly is not disturbed.
Rear Wheel Removal 1937-1951 Models-Remove the five hub brake
drum securing socket screws, axle nut and pull out axle. (Note 6n 4b,,
models fitted with internal rear hub speedometer drive, it is good policy
to pull speedorneter drive out of engagement in hub.) Remove axle spacer
arrd lift wheel off brake drum. ff wheel is stuck to drum, apply rear brake
to hold drum and rock wheel to free. A large screwdriver pr.Jnng between
hub and drum will help in removal.
Refitting-Note that tapered end of axle spacer fits towards wheel
hub. Tighten hub soeket screws very securely. These work loose easily if
not well tightened.
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I'ORKS, f,'RAMEI AND WHEELS 603
Wheel Bea,ring Adjustment-Ea'rly Singles a,nd 45" Twins, Front

'Wheels 61" and ?4" Twins to 1929-An adjustable ball cone type bearing
is used. Slacken cone lock nut on side opposite to brake, tighten cone fully
with moderate pressure, back off a/+ ttrn, retighten locknut. Bearing
should be quite free and with barely perceptible side shake at rim.
Wheel Bearing Atljustment-La,to Model Roller Tyre-A straight roller
type hub beari4g is used on all early 61" and 74" rear wheels and on both
front and rear on later models and on all late type 45" rear wheels. End
play adjustment is made by shim washers, radial play can be taken up
by fitting new standard rollers or .001" oversize rollers. These hubs seldom
require any attention. Bearing play is not considered excessive until move-
ment at rim exceeds %2".
Clutch F oot Poilal Friction Adjustment-Tighten nut on foot pedal

shaft so that foot pedal will hold in disengaged position.
Brakes
Front Brako Ailjustrnent-Threaded adjuster is provided at lower

end of brake cable outer casing at brake plate. Unscrewing adjuster takes
up slack, and screwing in increases control slack, Brakes should be
is /a" free movement in handlebar lever. Lever
adjusted so that there
should not come closer than 12" from grip when brake is fully applied.
There are 3 holes at end of brake lever in which control clevis pin
may be fitted. Holes closest to end of lever provide greatest leverage
and the most braking: power. Eront brake inner cable should be oiled
occasionally.
Rear Bralre Atljustment-This is provided at rear end of brake rod.
Slacken clevis locknut; remove cotter pin and clevis pin; adjust so that
brake pedal has not more than 1" free movement before application
commences. Peda] should not be closer than 1" from footboard when
brake is fully applied. Refit clevis pin, cotter pin and tighten locknut.
Brake Pivot Shoe Centralizing Adjustment-On late models the brake
shoe pivot stud which is diametrically opposite to the operating arm
shaft on brake plate, is mounted in an eiongated hole. Slackening the
hexagon nut on pivot stud and retightening while holdiqg brake lever in
applied position, allowing shoes to centralize in drum. Shoes shoutd be
centralized in this manner after brake relining and occasionally when
making brake control adjustments, if brake has losi efficiency.
193?-195L 45" Speedometer Drive-This is mounted in the rear brake
plate. The small fibre gear is driven by a worm gear in brake drum.
Stripping of the fibre gear is usually caused by damage to teeth when
removing and refitting wheel to brake drum with the fibre drive gear
unit left in position in brake plate. The fibre drive unit should be with-
drawn for removal of r,vheel and only refitted after wheel is refitted to
brake drum. Note drive is secured to brake plate by a screw and small
plate fitti4g in groove on drive unit.
When a stripped fibre gear has been experienced it i,s good policy to
remove wheel and brake plate and clean out the worm drive gear teeth
on brake drum hub and grease lightly before insta,Iling'new fibre gear,
604
CHAPTER NINETEEN
I]YDIAIV SERI/ICING
Note-This chapter contains servicing information applying especially
to Indian "V" Twin models. Brief details on lubrication and clearances
covering' the Single and vertical Twin models are included in the first two
sections. Eor information on operating, refer to Chapter Three. An outline
of average maintenance requirements and procedure, generally applicable
to Indian machines will be found in Chapter X'our.
Section 2
LUBRICATION
Motor Oil Changing-"V" Twin Models-Remove square end plug at
bottom of oil tank to drain tank. I'Iush out tank with varsol or 8'as to
clean sludge from bottom of tank. Changing is best done immediately
after use while still hot, reducing need of flushing tank. Replace drain
plug screw. Remove lower. screw frorn left side of crankcase and lean
machine to left to drain crankcase-replace drain screw. Refill tank within
2" of top.
Motor OiI Changing-"Brave" Single-Motor oil supply is contained
in crankc&se sump. Drain plug is at bottom of, crankcase. Oil filler plug
and dipstiek at left front side. Maintain oil level close to top mark on
dipstick. Drain when hot immediately after operation.
Motor Oil Changing-Scout and Warrior Twins-Drain piug is located
at bottom of, oil tank. It is only necessary to drain tank when changing
oil, but at intervals of at least every 5000 miles, the large hexagon plug
should be unscrewed from crankcase and screen washed in gas before
refitting. Exhaust smoking and over-oiling may be due to clogging of this
screen, restricting oil return. Coruect oil supply is 1% U.S. quarts (tank
approx. half full).
Grades of Motor Oil-tr'or recommended grades of oii for varying
temperatures, refer to Lubrication section of Chapter Four, "Maintenance,"
p4ge 126.
Oil Change Intervals-1000 miles is normal when operating at above
freezing temperatures. Change at 500-mile intervals if operating' under
dusty conditions without aircleaner.
Cold Weather Operation-Oil charging shouid be done at much more
frequent intervals during cold weather operation, especially where machine
is only run short distanees and the motor does not become thoroughly
heated, as considerable condensation and oi1 dilution occurs.
Oil Line,Connections-It is not necessary to remove oil lines for normal
oil changiqg, This normally need only be done when overhauling. Tank oil
line conneetion for a,ll 45" and 74" 1934 and later "V" Twins are:-
Tank front left union-feed pump line.
Tank front right union-return pump line.
Iank rear left union-breather prpe line.
Tank rear right outlet--dra,in screw.
LUBRICATION 605
1934-'1940 "Pony'' and "Ju-ior Scou?' 30.50 Model Oil Tank-Note that
on these models oil tank is the rear section of the right tank while on all
other Indian Twins oil tank is the front section of right tank. Care should
be taken when having tank filled with gas, that gas is not accidentally
put in oil tank by mistake.
Checking Oil Circulation-On dry sump models oil should be evident
bubbling out of return oil line spout when oil tank filler cap is removed
when motor is running. This return is not steady; it fluctuates slightly.
Return flow at this point is a 8:ood indication oiling system is working.
If there is no oil return evident after a few minutes operation, trouble is
either in the oil feed or return. If oil is being fed and not returning,
exhaust wiU soon commence to smoke due to over-oiling:. Trouble may be
due to oil pump being dry and an air lock existing'. This can usually be
overcome by disconnecting oil line from sump to pump and filling this
line with oil; also disconnecting oil return pump tank line union and filling
pump with oil squirt can from this opening. If there is no oil return and
no exhaust smoking develops, it is evident trouble is in lack of oil feed.
E.eed pump can be primed by disconnecting oil feed line union until oil
runs, allowing any air to escape and connecting up. Whether oil pump is
drawing any oil or not can be checked by leaving feed line diseonnected
and running'motor, feeding oil to pump with oil can. Oil should be rapidly
drawn away if oil is feeding throug:h pump.
1934-193? Indian Twins Dry Sump Oiling System-A reciprocating and
rotating piung:er pump is used on these models. The top end of the plunger
is the feed pump and the lower end of plunger the return pump.
1934-193? Pump Feetl Atljustment-A needle valve screw with hexagon
locknut is located on the right side of pump towarils the top and front which
rqgulates the oil feed opening to pump. Turning this screw in (clockwise)
reduces oil supply and out (anti-clockwise) increases oil supply. Standard
setting 71/z turns open from closed position. Oil consumption should averag'e
between 300 to 500 miles per quart.
1938-194? fndian Twin Oil Pumps-F eed pump is similar to the earlier
pump. T'here is no feed supply adjustment. Return pump is a g'ear type at
base of distributor drive shaft. (See I11. 245.)
If this pump has been dismantled, note that the feed plunger guide
screw is refitted and securely tightened, also that a g:asket no thicker
than necessary to ensure free running of return gears is fitted on return
pump bottom g'ear cover. A .002" or ,004" gasket is usually sufficient to
give free running of g:ears, a thicker gasket reduces pump efficiency.
Oil Beturn Sump Valve 1934-1946 Twins-Oil return from crankcase to
return pump first passes through the sump valve located in the round
body on bottom right side of, crankcase, secured with three screws. This
will normally only require cleaning' at top motor overhaul periods of
1 around 5000 miles, but if excessive over-oiling develops apparently due to
I improper oil return to tank, trouble is likely in sump valve.
t Note that there must be no arr leaks in oil line from sump valve body
i to return pump. Air leakage in this line or at unions, is most common
I oil return and over-oiling.
cause of failure of
To dismantle sump valve, note that exhaust pipe should be moved.
Remove three screws and return oil line to pump. F ree body joint to
crankcase with light rap. Note that three eountersunk screws secuie the
body inner valve plate and these should be removed for cleaning. ft is
606 INDIAN SERVICING
seldom that the valve itself requires any attention other than cleaning.
Note th'at it is cleaned, oiled and operates freely before assembly and that
when the valve plate is fitted to the sump body that it is fitted with the
valve in the lowest position, that is, when the body is fitted to the crank-
case the valve must be at the bottom of crankcase.
Replace gaskets or use jointing compound and retighten inner plate
and outer body screws when reassembling.
Sump Valvo Oil Pickup Iube-Most 1940 and later models have a
tube extending from sump valve plate to centre of crankcase under fly-
wheels. This improves oil pickup and eliminates possibility of locating
sump valve plate on body in wrong holes as flywheels will obstruct installa-
tion with pickup tube in any but the lowest serew hole position. End of
pickup tube should clear crankcase base by approximately 7/4tt and should
be bent if necessary to provids this clearance.
Plunger Purnp Failure-If the pump plunger cap screw at top front
of pump is removed, the rotating and reeiprocating movement of plunS:er
can be checked. If plunger does not revolve, trouble is a stripped worm
either on the eamshaft or pump plunger itself. If pump plunger revolves
but has no reciprocating motion, the plunger guide screw end has either
broken off or was omitted on reassembly, if trouble developed immediately
after overhaul.
Early type plunger guide screws had a roller on end but were sub-
ject to breakage and should be replaced with the solid end type screw
without roller. It is necessary to remove pump body from timing cover
to replace plunger.guide screw.
DI5]RIBUIICP AD]L]5TJ.1BJI
CLAI1P SCREW 1--
REAP CAMHATT
P!YE!= gElR *IR0|1 OlLTA1(
DRTV$IG
DrSrR.ErB TO tnc'liiE
Ill. 245
193&1947 INDIAN OIL PU}IFS AND DISIBIBUTOR DRIIIE
This sectional view shows the rotating and reciprocating plungel type feed pump driven off
the front camshaft worm, and the gear pattern retum pump at the base of the distributor
d.rive, driven by a bevel lear on the reai camshaft. Noie that before pump plunger can be
withdram, the dowel screw that f its into tbe plunger 8:r@ve must be first removed f lom
the back of pump,
LUBRICATION 607
1948 Morlel 348 74" Gear Type Oil pumps-On these models a double
gear type pump is used for both the feed and return in place of the plunger
feed and gear type return pumps previously used,
OiI Sump Return 194?-1948 Motlel 348-The sump valve with pick-up
tube used on eanlier models is replaced on these machines with a plain
round plate onto which is attached a scraper trough. Note that a screen is
located at the inside end of the oil return elbow. If oil fails to return
properly, an obstruction at this point may be the cause.
Indian 4 Cylinder Motlel Oiling System-A car type lubrication system
is employed on this model. Oil supply is contained in bottom of crankcase.
Pump draws oil from erankcase and forces to crankshaft; oil drains to
bottom of crankcase by gravity.
Oil Draining-Remove the large plug under motor crankcase and the
smaller plugs under the flywheel housing and transmission gear case.
Crankcase OiI Filter Screen-When crankcase drain plug is removed
oil screen above plug hole should be eleaned by brushing or spraying with
g'as or solvent. As an alternative, gas or varsol can be poured into crank-
case'through filler opening. Allow to drain thoroughly before replacing
plug and filling with oil.
Oil Filling-Capacity is 3 U.S. quarts, Motor oil lubricates trans-
mission gears also. When adding oiI, start motor after adding then recheck
oil level.
Motor Oiling System-All 1933 an(l Earlier Twins-A mechanical feed
oiling system is used on these machines. A single oil pump is employed
mounted in timing g'ear cover and driven by camshaft worm gear. pump
feeds oil to motor at a slow rate, approximately 30 drops per minute at
idling speed, 60 drops per minute at about 40 M.P,H, high gear road
speed. Oil is fed from pump to front cylinder wall on early models and on
later machines via drilled right mainshaft flywheel and crankshaft to
con-rod big-ends. Oil drains to bottom of crankcase and flyr,vheels provide
splash lubrication.
No oil returns from motor to tank. About one cupful of oil is all
that is ever in motor when correctly adjusted.
Oil Feetl Adjustmen(-1931 and 1932 pumps have supply regutated by
cable from throttle control also two adjusting screws on pump. Slow
speed operation oil supply is regulated by the set screw on front end of
pump. Turn in (clockwise) to increase oil feed and turn out (anti-clockwise)
to reduce. High speed oil feed is adjusted by set screlv on lower side of
pump. Turn out (anti-clockwise) to increase oil feed and in (clockwise) to
reduce oil feed. On 1928, 1929 and 1930 model pumps, oil supply is adjusted
by set screw at front of pump; turning set screw in ictockwise) reduces
oil supply and turning.out increases oit supply.
Iland Pump-The hand pump on oil tank is used for restoring crank-
case oil supply after draining, when three pumpfuls should be given, and
also for supplementing the motor oil pump supply when operating under
very heavy load such as travelling through mud or deep sand or when
maintaining unusually high speed. The amount of supplement required
from the hand pump should not exceed one-half pumpful every two to three
miles and only for the period of severe operation, if pump settlng is correet.
Determining Correct Oil Setting-1988 and Earlier Twins--Oil con-
sumption should averag'e approximately 1b0-200 miles per quart. setting
can be considered approximately eorrect when just a trace of blue smoke

is evident at the exhaust at all times and when the throttle is opened and
closed quickly with the motor running in neutral, a distinct puff of blue
smoke is noted at the exhaust.
Testing Pump Operation-Although the rate of oil consumption and
observation for exhaust smoke will give a good indication of suitability
of oil pump setting, to determine if oil pump is actually operating, disconnect
oil li-rte from tank to pump, at pump, start motor, feed with an oj.l can and
note that oil is drawn through pump.
Avoitl Oil Line Air Lock-When connecting up pump oil line, connect
tank end first. ff tank is dry pour some oil in tank and wait for oil line
to fiII and flow out bottom end at pump, then connect oil pump union.
Crankcase Draining-.4[U 1933 and Ea,rlier Twins-Remove crankcase
drain screw on lower left side when motor is warm, every 500 miles. Replace
screw and gfve motor 3 full shots from the hand pump.
Oil Seepage from Ta,nk to Crankcase via Hand Pump Ball Check
Valve--A spring loaded ball valve is located under hand pump to prevent
oil passing down this line to crankcase until pump is operated. Overloading
of crankcase with oil, indicated by heavy smoki4g at the exhaust after
machine is started up after being idle for a period, occasionally occurs and
is due to ball check valve ball at bottom of, hand pump not seating properly.
Dismantling and washing ball and seating will overcome trouble, Ball
can be given a sharp tap onto seating using a length of rod and hammer.
Whether trouble is being experienced at this point or not can be determined
by disconnecting the oil pipe union at bottom of hand pump overnight and
noting if any leakage has occurred.
Prima,ry llrive and Gearbox Lubrication
30.5" (741), 87", 45" and 74" Trvin Models-Primarl' drlve case oil
lubricates clutch and gearbox. IJse one or two grades lighter oil than
used in engine to minimize clutch drag.
To drain, remove plug at bottom of gearbox and on lo\\'er left side
of primary drive cover. Refill to height of level screw plug. above drive
case drain screw.
Drain and refill every 5000 miles or sooner if seasonal oil change is
necessary. Check level every 1000 miles.
1984-1940 "Pony" a,nd "Junior gg6uf,"-Qesrbox is a separate unit.
Filler plug is iocated on upper right side of case, Ievel screlv on lower
right side and drain screw at bottorn of case.
"Pony" antl "Junior Scout" Primary Chain Lubrieation-Oii can or
chain grease lubrication should be provided at 200-mile intervals.
Note-Some 1940 model 340 and 640 machines were produced with
separate primary drive and g:earbox lubrication, using light gear oii in the
l
!!
tl
*i
gearbox and motor oil in the primary drive and clutch case. These were, tr
with possible rare exceptions, all converted to the originat and current
type of combined lubrication by drilling a connecting hole through left
side of transmission case at bottom, to interconnect.
LUBRICATION 609
Spo'rt Scout Generator Chain Luhrication-Oil tank breather line can

be used to provide oil mist lubrication to generator chain by drilling hole
in top of guard for breather pipe to enter. Removal of ehain cover at
1000-mile intervals, eoating chain with grease and depositing a supply in
cover before refitting, g'ives satisfactory lubrication.
Rear Chain Lubrication-The crankcase breather pipe to rear chain on
some models provides negligible lubrication. When operating under com-
paratively dust-free conditions oil ca,n application to rear chain is beneficial
about every 200 rniles. Refer to Section 4, "Lubrication," of Chapter 4, for
chain servicing' recommendations.
Lg52 80" Primary Drive and Gear Oil-An oil seal is used between the
primary drive and gearbox on these models. 600 W, transmission oil or
motor oil of same grade as used in engine should be used in gearbox. E ill
through plug hole in top of transmission to level plug opening on right
side in front of chainguard. Use S.A.E, 10 motor oil in the primary drive
case.
"Brave" Single Primaqr Drive and Gear Oil-Motor oil same grade
as used in engine.(see page 126) is correct for,gearbox. Filter plug is at
top of crankcase behind cylinder. Drain plug is at left rear side. Cfreek
level every 1000 miles. Maintain level between two marks on dipstick.
Drain and refill every 5000 miles or seasonally.
A separate oil suppty for primary chain was provided on 19b1 and
earlier models. S.A.E. 10 oil is used to height of level plug opening. On
1952 models and earlier machines that have been converted by drilling a
connecting hole through from chaincase through timing gear cover, eng.ine
crankcase oil supply lubricates primary chain and no oil needs to be added
to primary chainease.
Scout anrd Warrior-Gearbox and Primary Drive-S.A.E. 10 motor oil
is correct for the primary drive. Level should be topped up every 1000
miles, drained and refilled every 5000. Level plug is below and aa front
of right footrest. Motor oil same grade as for engine is used in gearbox.
Level plug is in front of kickstarter shaft.
Plunger Fork Oil-Arrol, Scout and Warrior Models-X.ork legs should
be drained at 5000-mile intervals and 8 ounces of fork fluid poured into
each leg. If the manufacturer's fork fluid is not available use S.A.EI. No.
20 engine oil.
610 INDIAN SEIRVICING
Section 2
CLEARANCES AND SETTINGS
74" and80"
INDIAN (V'TWINS 30.5"
(500 c.c.)
45"
(750 c.c.)
(1200-1300
c.c.)
Piston Clearances-Pistons cam-

ground (.012" cam)
"T" or horizontal slot tYPe .003" .004"
Bottom of skirt..........
Top of skirt............... .0047/2" .005r/2,,
Ring Iands........................... .020" .023"
Pistons Solitl Skirt Low Expansion

Alloy carn-ground .006-.010" cam
Bottom of skirt......... .004" .005"
Top of skirt............... .006" .007"
Ring lands... .018" .020"
Piston ring joint gap................. .072-.075" .015-.018" .018"
Piston pin in rod (honed)......... .001" .001" .001"
Standard cytnder bore, inches.. 2.500,, 2.875" 3.250"

Standard cylinder bore, mm...... 63.5 mm. 73.02mm. 82.54 mm.
fnlet valve tappet (motor cold)............. .005" .005" .005"
Exhaust valve tappet ,008" .008" .008"
gr
fnlet valve stem in guide............,........ .003" .003" .003"
Exhaust valve stem in guide............... .004" .004r/2,, .005"
Valve seat angle..........,............. 35 Deg. 35 Deg. 35 Deg.
Ignition advance (on pistons). lb-1ha" Yz"
Breaker point gap (coil ignition)........... .020" .020,, .020,,
Breaker point ,gap (mag. ignition)......... .015" .015" .015"
Spark plug point 9ap...... .020" .020" .020"
Con-rod big-end clearance....... .001" .001" .001"

Con-rod side clearance.............................. .010-20" .010-20" .010-20"
F lyi;vheel end play........ .010-20" .010-20" .010-20"
tr'Iyr,vheel shafts............. .007-.0077/2" ,001-.007r/2" 007-.001y2"
Camshafts in bushings. 007-.00Lr/2"'t.007-.007Y2" ,001-.00116 "
I
INDIAN SINGLES AND "Brave" "Scout" & "Warrior"

VERTICAL TWINS !5" 26.6" & 30.5"
(248 c.c.) (438 c.c.) (498 c.c.)
Piston Clearances-Solid Skirt
(.008"-.010" cam)
Bottom of skirt.......... .004" .002r/2,,
Top of 'skirt............... .006" .0047/2,,
Ring lands.,... .012" .072"
.072" .072"
,001/zt'-,007t' .00Yztt-,00L"
2.540" 2.540"
Inlet valve tappet (cold). .003" .003"

Exhaust valve tappet....... .004" .003"
Valve seat angle................. 45 Deg. 45 Deg.
Con-rod big-end.............. .00a/2"-.007" .00t/2t t _.0071/2tl
Breaklr pdi"i iip................ : :.... :. :....... : .018" .075"
Spark plug point gap...... .025" .025"
..V" T.\MIN MOTOR SERVICING 611
Section 3
..V'' IIVIN MOTOR SERVICING
The Indian servicing details covered in this section apply to 1934-1941
45", 7934-1948 74" arrd 1951-1952 80" twins irr particular but are generally
applicable to other "V" twin models.
(a) Top Motor Overhaul
Top motor overhaul ls normally required at 5000 to 10,000-mile intervals,
dependent on operating conditions. Need for top overhaul is indicated by
excessive oil consumption, loss of compression, increased mechanical noise'
and generally reduced performance.
TOP MOTOR OVERIIAUL PR,OCEDURE
Remove tanks, cylinder heads, intake manifold and carburetor, cylinders
and pistons from con-rods, marking pistons front and rear. (Note when
refitting, piston slots must face front). Check the big-end con-rod bearings
and if straight up and do,wt"r piay is not more than barely perceptible
(.003"-.004"), attention to the lower end is not necessary.
Presuming the big-end condition is found satisfactory, clean off any
traces of gasket on the crankcase cylinder base surfaces, dirt, etc., remove
oil sump return body, flush out crankcase thoroughly, clean oil sump return
va.lr,e, reassemble and refit making sure the valve is located at the bottom
of the body, Gaskets should be cemented unless new ones are fitted. cover
up the cranl<case and the machine can now be set aside awaiting completion
of the "bench work.,,
Fistons and Rings-The piston rings should be replaced if their joint
gap when placed squarely in the unworn end of the eylinder exceed.s .040,,.
New piston ring joints should be filed if neeessary to provide .01b,, joint
gap when placed squarely in the lower unworn end of the cylinder. -Use
a broken section of an old piston ring as a scraper to remove carbon
deposit from the piston grooves.
Do the Pistons Bequire Beplacing ?-piston replaeement is not tikely
to be necessary prior to time for a rebore job unless an oil shortage or
extreme overheating has been experienced. rf pistons appear doubtfut
check bottom and top of skirt cyiinder clearances, on the piston skirt
thrust faees, aÎso check the side clearance of new rings in the piston ring
8:rooves. Replacement of pistons is advisable in any of the following
instances: Ring side clearance in excess of.008", bottom of skirt clearance
exceeding .007" and top of skirt exceeding .00g,,. Refer to Section B for
new fittirt,g clearances.
Is Cylinder Reboring Necessary?-When cylinder wear exceeds .010,,,
cylinders should be finished out to an oversize in an even .010,, over the
standard bores of 2.875" (45" model),and 8.2b0,, (?4,, model). Maximum
oversize to which these cylinders ean be safely rebored is about .0g0,,.
Replacement pistons are available up to this size but the largcst oversize
Indian pistons supplied are .060,,.
rf the cylinders are accurately finished out to the oversize stamped
on the piston, the correct skirt clearance will be provided. However, it is
well to check this with micrometers or feelers and reference should be
made to the "clearance chart" on rndian models in section 2. Note that
where "semi-finished" pistons have been finished down, the .,T,, slot should
be extended if necessary-.to match the original. The "T" must be complete
but the bottom of the "T" slot ends at the round hole in skirt some di"turr""
from the bottom. It is not intended to be extended beyond this hole.
The rings that come with the new pistons should be checked for
joint gap inlhe cylinder bore. E'ile, if necessary, to .015" (45" model) and
.078" (74" model) joint gap.
Piston Pins a,nd Bushings-Maximum permissible pin clearances are
.004" in con-rod bushings and .002" in piston bosses. Where rod bushing
and piston boss clearances are both excessive, if piston does not otherlvise
require replacing, the simplest repair is to install an oversize pin. Note
th;t .001" pin cl-earance in-con-rod bushing must be allowed and pin should
be a hand press fit in piston.
Thelndiancon-rodpistonpinbushingsaresuppliedabout.008-.010,, i
undersize bore and this means a Iot of reaming if pressed in just as supplied,
which will be found slow and tedious work unless the rods are out and
can be power-reamed, It is recommended that the bushings first be bored
out in a tattte to .751" (free fit on piston pin) and very slight reaming
or honing only wilt be necessary after insertion. If reamed, provide .00%"
pin clear:ancej if tronea, pro'ride .001''. The "draw-bo1t and tube spacer" is
the simplest method of fiating new bushings when the rods are in the motor.
Rear Cylinder Removal-On the ?4" model especially, when the motor
is in the fiame; the frame tank tube pre'ents raising the cylinder high *
enough io clear the piston but this can be overcome as follows: Lift cylinder
,r"iif-pi"to" pin hole is cleared, rernove pin retaining lockrings and tap
out the pin, itren slip the piston up into the cylinder when the iatter can
be easily lifted off.
R,eplacirrgRearCylinder-x.itpistonincylindercompletewithrings,
but lesi pin;-push in until skirt is at least level with cylinder base. Now
fit cylinder over con-rod onto crankcase and pull pin
down piston partially
out of the cylinder, onto the con-rod; start the through one side of
the piston and lirre up other piston pin hole with con-rod small-end by
Il1. 246
PISTON SEIRI CR,ANIICASE CLEARANCE

(LARGE O\rER,SIZES)
Vfhen oversize exceeals.030" it is Yery im-
portant that pistons be checkeC for bottom
of sxirt clearance in tt.e crankcase piston
recesses lvhen pistons are at bottom of stloke'
Insuflicient clearance at this point for pistons
over.030" oversize is common to most Indian
"\I" Twin models and it is advisable to un-
dercut the bottom3/8" of the piston skirt to
standard size for up from the botiom
as illustrated.. An altemative methoal is to
scrape out crankcase piston skirt recesses to
proyide added clearance for the oversize skirts.
This is difficult and tedious work and can
only be d.one satisfactorily when the motor is
completelY stripped.
means of the tapered lining up bar (111.247). The pin can now be tapped
right home. Be sure to fit the lockrings, new ones if available; if not, old
orr]"" c6 be stretched slighUy to improve tension and refitted. T'he tapered
bar illustrated is easily made up from a piece of eL" mild steel bar. Turn
down a 5" length to .745" folr 3r/2" and taper the remaining Lt/2't ftorr.
.745" to about 3/e". Reversing this bar makes a handy drift for tapping
out pins from pistons' See illustration No. 247-
t
..V" TWTN MOTOR SERVICING
613
|
t\. 241
DRIFT FOR f,NOCIIING OUf PISTON PINS
A tool made to the above dimensions for pin removal and arso for rining
-is. useful
con-rod and piston pin hotes when refitting piston. hhis apptim especiauv tL ?+,,
uB
piston and cyiinder procedure
ineialtation. is ieiaiieA on page OfZ. ""u"
rrl. 248.q
INSTAT,LING A NEVY VALIrE

(iUIDE
Illustration shows the double diameter
type drift used for both remoyat and
refitting. This tool is a very useful tool I
that can be easily machined up. As a
substilute a 6/76" or:h"x4', bolt with
nut fitted to acL as driving shoulder l
can be used very satisfactorily. I
Valve seats should be recut after in-
stalling new guides,
I
S,l
.-.,tn Lt::
*%.
ffi, ]
ffi;'.,,.!
'
:l::'l lrj ,
nL 248
R.EMOVING A VAL\IE GUIDE

Valye guldes are a straight press fit
?rq Ere euily knocked out with a
dr!ft.
L
Vah-es and Guides-'On Indian "V" twins, valve seat angle is 35 degrees,
measured frorn the head surface; stems are 3/s" and 11/ez" for models 74"
and 45" respectively. A 35 degree seat cutter 214a" diameter should be
procured, with pilots to suit both diameters of valve guide. lVhen having
valves refaced be sure they are done to 35 degrees to match the seats.
When valves are refaced on an aecurate refacer and seats are done
.
with a high speed grinder giving a good finish, no grinding-in with grinding
paste is necessary.
The valve guides are an ordiaary press fit and when worn so that
valve stem clearanees exceed .009-.010", replacement should be made, using
the usual double diameter drift. If guides are to be replaced, seats should
be recut ajter new ones are installed.
.lr'AL}'E
SEAT CUTTER
ril,2+9
A 35 degree 2 %6" diameter valve seat

cutter is shown Dounted on a 3/g" pilot
stem ready for recutting valve seats in
Indian 74 cylinder block.
How to Check the Valvo Grind Job-After valves are g'round in and
assembled, squirt, say, an eggcupful of gas into each port, one at a time,
holding the cylinders base end up ahd observing for leakag'e around the
valve head. If there is only a tra.ce of seepage in 10 or 15 seconds, the
job is satisfactory, if drops of, gas form around valve head, grind in some
more and recheck.
Carbon Remova,l antl General Cleaning of Farts-Carbon should be
carefully scraped from the cylinder head, piston tops, exhaust ports, ete.,
and ail parts washed in solvent and wiped clean before reassembly. Avoid
scratching piston tops, combustion chambers and head joint surfaces,
,.V" TWIN MOTOR SERVICING 615
TOP MOTOB OVERHAUL REASSEMBLY

After all bench work in connection with top overhaul has been com-
pleted, proeeed with reassembly in just the reverse order to dismantling.
A complete new set of gaskets should be used and no jointing compound
will be necessary if joint surfaces are in good condition.
Note that rings have been filed to .015-.018" joint gap, pistons fitted
on "T,' slot type with slots facing front and lockrings refitted right into
piston pin lockring g'rooves.
If tappet rods have been removed, note that the two short rods are
for the rear cylinder and the long rods for the front, where one of each
rod is grooved, fit grooved rods to inlet valves. Groove improves inlet
valve lubrication.
A speciai small diameter lock washer is used on the front cylinder,
front right side cylinder base stud and the rear cylinder rear right side
base stud. These are required to enable fitting down valve covers, ff not
available a flat should be ground on a standar6 s/s" lock washer.
Yalvo Covers-On models fitted with the valve covers divided vertically,
covers can be fitted after cylinders have been fitted and tappets adjusted.
On models using the telescoping type that thread onto crankcase, make
sure that the top half of the valve eover was fitted onio valve guide before
valve spring was fitted and that orlter bottom half is fitted on before
mounting cylinder. Note that this is easily held in place by sticking with
a daub of stiff g'rease.
Cylintler Baso fightening-Tighten clown cylinder base nuts slightly,
then fit inlet manifold and tighten manifold nipple nuts inoderately, Now
tighten eylinder base nuts securely using a flexi-box wrench. X'inally
tighten manifold nipple nuts. Carburetor servicing is dealt with in section
5. This should be completed with the bench work and carburetor refitted
to manifold and three securing' screws very securely tightened before fitting
manifold to cylinders.
Inlet Manifolil Nipple Joints-Air leakage at these joints is a common
cause of uneven low speed running and difficulty in obtaining a good
idling adjustment. tr'ollowing the above assembling procedure will avoid
leakage if parts are in good condition. If nipple cones are worn they should
be replaced making sure they are fitted with the straight edge towards
the cylinder and the cone end on first toward the nipple nut. Where
replacements are needed but not availa.ble, smear cones with a good quality
heat-resisting jointing compound before assembling. Take care to avoid
crossing threads when starting nipple nuts. To tighten the notched ring
type nut used on late model 45's, use a length of brass rod with squared
end as a drift and tap up tight with hammer. Not"e that earburetor
support bracket hole fits over the centre crankcase stud to ensure car-
buretor is level
Valve Tappet Clearances-Adjust tappets after cyllnder bases have
been tightened, before fitting heads, Adjust to .005" intake and .008"
exhaust. Adjust for each cylinder with its piston ou top of compression
stroke-
Checking Valvo and Ignition Timing-It is good policy to make a quick
check on valve artd igaition timing to piston movement before fittirxg
eyllnder heads. Revolve motor slowly via rear wheel with high gear
engaged. On standard twin models there is a slight amount of valve overlap,
the inlet valve opeJxing $'hen piston is about lle" before top of exhaust
rtl. 250
fIITIING CYLINDER OVEI'

PISTON ANI)
RTNGS
The first step ls to tilt the
cylinder over the ends of the
top ring, then press in the back
of ring wilh a screw drivei as
shor/n, when c,vlinder can be
lowered completely over the top
ring.
Il1. 251
The second ring jotnt shoulal be

located directly oppoElte to tbe
top dng joint. Tilt the cyllnde!
oYer the ends of the second
ring and then press in back of
ring with screw driver as cylln-
der is lowered. Locate bottom
ring joint opposite and repear
procedure.
Note that "T" slot pistons must
be,titted with the slots facing
f ront. Be sure pln lmkrings and
cylinder base joint gasket are
fitted before lowering cylinder.
l/alYes, sprlngs and covers not
shown in these illustrations are
always first assembled to cylin-
der beiore fitting to motor.
stroke and exhaust valve closing when piston is about %e1' down on the
1+1et. stroke. ,Special speed modEls usingi special cams have considerably.
more valve overlap. On the Bonneviile motor models inlet valve cornmences.
op_enirrg' with piston approximately 3/e,, heiore top of exhaust .stroke and
exhaustv'a1veeiosingal,,downonpistononin1etitroke.
Valve timing will be colyect .upless timing gears have been removed
and refitted out of timc. Refer to Illustration No. 256 for timing gear.
With'ignition control advanced and bieaker points set .020" fully'open'

(coil ignition), or .015" (magneto ignition), revolve motor slowly in running
diiection and note.that fhe polnts just corirmeirce tb seiarate on the natrow
cam when'frgnt piston is 3/8'1 before top of cornpression stroke'('both'valves
closed) and that points jirst separate on the wide breaker carir'when the
rdar Pistonis 19":lefarle top of iompr'esqibn'slrg|.e; Zq'l ddvance on'piltgn,
is used on staridard 45" models." 'r '. :"'
..V" TWIN MOTOR SERVICING 61?
If timing is checked on both pistons the possibility of having one

cylinder out of time due to accidentally timing on the wrong cam will be
eliminated.
Refitttug Cylinder Heads-Use new head gaskets if available. Note
that on some models a short head bolt is used on each head through the
thin section on the left side. On some 45" models a shorter head bolt is
required for bolt hole directly above each inlet manifold. Be sure that
head bolts fitted at these points are not too long to permit complete pulling
down of head.
Tighten head bolts progressively to a final pressure of 50-55 foot lbs.
of torque. Do not overlook secure tightening of the cylinder head to frame
brace, frame bolts.
Fitting High Tension Wires-Note that wire leading from distributor
cap contact, to which rotor points, when breaker points separate on the
narrow cam, should be fitted to front plug. Note that on some early
magnetos high tension pickups are marked 1 and 2. Opposite to common
beiief, No. 1 is considered the rear cylinder and No. 2 the front on ,,V,, twin
magneto timing.
Refitting Tanks-Note that speedometer cable fits in tank channel and
does not hold tank off frame. Make sure that tank lugs at rear mountilg
can be pushed right against frame before tightening bolt. If speedometer
cable is incorrectly positioned tank, may be heid off at this point and
tightening of rear securing bolt may strain rear tank lug and cause leakage.
tr'or data on oil lines see Section 1, "I-ubrication,,, of this chapter.
Carburetor tune-up should be given after motor warms up. See Section b.
(b) Motor R;emoval

74" Models, 37" a,nd. Standard 45" Scout Models-tr{otor and g:earbox
are removed as a complete unit. ft is only necessary to disconnect throtile,
spark and clutch controls, oii lines, rear chain and low tension wire from
coil to breaker points, cylinder head to frame bracket and front and :rear
engine mounting boits, when the complete motor and gear unit can be
lifted out from the right side of the frame on to the bench.
45" Sport Scout Models, 80.5' and 87" Mociel 741 Military Type-
Motor is removable independent from gearbox, which will normally be left
in frame.
1. Drain oil tank and remove oil lines.
2. Remove gas feed line, disconnect throttle control at carburetor and
remove cylinder head bolt securing'throttle control bracket. I
3. Remove safety guards, footboards, brake and clutch pedals. I

4. Remove exhaust pipe and muffler assembly. Using a soft drift,
tap out rear footboard support rod to right side of machine. Note spacer
between inner primary drive case and left engine ptate on this rod which
must be refitted on reassembly.
5. Disconnect spark control cable and low tension wire from coil to
breaker points. :
6. Disconnect cylinder head engine to frame bracket from frame.

7. Remove g'ear lever rod.
8. Remove primary drive ehain cover as follows: Drain oil, remove

cover bolts and screws, remove the rectangular plate on top rear of case,
remove clutch operating arm nut and arm and insert a heavy screwdriver
into end of worm shaft and turn clockwise while withdrawing case'
9. It is not absolutely neeessary to remove the inner chaincase back-
plate but rerroval improves accessibility to engine plate bolts. To remove
inner case, first dismantle cluteh removing spring nuts, outer plate, springs
and all steel and fibre plates. The 5 hex head cap screws are now accessible
through the holes in the back of the clutch sprocket and can be removed
with a thinwall 7ro" socket. Remove an additional cap screw at centre
towards front of case. Do not lose the shakeproof washers from these
screws.
10. Remove primary drive chain. If chain has not a removable llnk,
eng:ine sprocket should be freedfrom taper. This can be done with a gear
prrtt"r oi by driving a wed,ge behind sprocket and then striking end of
iprocket sfrLft a sliarp btow with hammer. Use soft drift against shaft
t6 avoid thread damage. Remove gearbox right side mainshaft nut and
kickstarter ratchet. This will permit withdrawal of the inner primary
drive cover together with clutch sprocket, clutch hub and gearbox main-
shaft.
11. Disconnect generator chain, cut out wire to ammeter, remove
generator,
12, Removal of engine plate crankcase bolts wiII now permit motor to
be removed to bench.
(c) SeParating Motor from Gearbox

74", g7" AIID STANDARD 45" SCOUT MODELS
Models Up to 1933-Remove generator drive assembly, primary drive
cover bolts and screws, remove clutch operating worm shaft nut and arm,
turn worm shaft cloclmrise with screwdriver. cover can now be withdrawn.
Remove inner primary drive cover, the 4 gearbox to motor lug securing
bolts and the complete gearbox and clutch assembly are now free from
motor.
1934 ancl Later 74" anil 45" Standard Scout Models-
1. Remove primary drive cover bolts and screws.
2. Remove clutch operating arm worm shaft nut and arm.
3. Insert screwdriver in worm shaft and turn clockwise retnoving
primary drive outer cover.
4. Remove engine sh.aft sprocket nut and free sprocket from taper
by giving sprocket a sharp rap on edge with hammer and soft drift or
Aiive a wedie behind sprocket and against innercase and strike shaft end
a sharp blow with hammer and drift.
5, Remove gearbox top cover and undo the clutch sprocket nut that
secures the clutch sprocket into the left side gearbox bearing. This is the
hexagon nut located next to the left side bearing, accessible when cover is
removed. To remove, pry off locking tab and use a heavy blunt screwdriver
or punch and hammer, as this nut is not accessible without a special wrench.
6. Remove generator driving pulley nut. Remove pulley from shaft
taper by sharp rap on end of shaft with drift.
?. Remorre right side .mainshaft nut and kickstarter ratchet.
..V" TWIN MOiTOR SERVICING 619
8. Withdraw engine sprocket, clutch sprocket complete with mainshaft

and generator driving sprocket all meshed in the primary drive chain.
9. Note-Above procedure applies where the standard endless type
primary chain is used. Where a removable connecting link has been fitted
with the open end of link toward motor, it will be found possible to
remove the conlink cotter pins with tweezers. Withdraw the con-lhk ahd
run the chain off both sprockets. This will enable removal of inner chain-
case without removing' gearbox lid or clutch and mainshaft.
10. Inner chaincase can be removed after 3 inner securing: screws,
11. Removal of the 4 gearbox lug motor mounting bolts now will
permit separation of gearbox from crankcase.
(,il) Crankcase Servicing

INDIA-N "1i' 11ryng MODELS
Cra,nkcaso Dismamtllng-This will not be normally undertaken until
need for bearing replacements is indicated by development of noticeable
con-rod big-end straight up and down shake, or excessive mainshaft bear'
ing clearance. Dismantling should be undertaken and necessary bearing
replacements effected when .004" or more straight up and down clearance
exists in either con-rods or mainshaft bearings.
Crankshaft Timing Pinion Remova,I-Note that this nut is left-hand
tJrread, unwiad clock'"vise. Be sure to remove the flat washer under nut
before attempting gear removal.
Note that on all models since 1933 the gear side end of the right
mainshaft is extended to form an oil feed nozzle through the timing gear
cover. This shaft end is of very light section and a puller screw should
not be applied directly on this end. A short length of drilled rod can be
used as a spacer tube against puller screw so that pressure is taken right
on the solid section of the shaft shoulder. The factory type gear puller has
a hollow puller screw end which fits over the er(tended end of shaft and
this tool should be used if available. If this or other suitable gear puller
is not available proceed with crankcase and fllwheel dismantling as follows:
Remove left side crankcase half and left crankpin nut. The flywheels
can now be easily separated by giving a sharp tap on a large cold chisel
between the flpvheels in the vicinity of the crankpin. This will free the
left flywheel from its taper; con-rods, rollers and retainers can then be
removed giving access to right side mainshaft flywheel nut. Undo this and
give end of shaft a sharp tap with a hammer and soft drift and this
shaft will go out through the right side of the crankcase. The timing pinion
can now be easily removed from shaft by use of a light press or just
resting gear on vice jaws, opened just slightly more than the shaft size,
and tapping on end, using suitable spacer to avoid damaging the oil
nozzle. This procedure is only necessary when a suitable timing pinion
puller is not available. Reassembly is carried out in the conventional
manner.
Bearing Rollers-These are Yt" diameter x .307" tong thrrcughout on
mainshafts and con-rod bearings. Take care not to get ttrese mixed up
when dismantling and if old rollers are being put back, make sure they
are replaced in their original bearings. These rolters run direcily on the
hardened mainshafis and on pressed-in races in con-rods and crankcases_
Rollers are all placed in retainers.
Ilt. ,62 li
IVEDGE METHOD O['

SEPARATING F'LYWIIEEI,S
,ffi :
Taper fitting flywheels such as the

lndian are most esily sepilated from
crankpin by drtvlng a wedge or large
chisel as illustrated between flywheets
closs to crankpin.
::!
f::
Lr
Iu. 253
-{ hammer and blunt chisel or punch
wiU effectively tighten crankpin nuts
if a suitabl€ socket is not available.
Illustration sholvs an Indian flywheel.
Note that on this type the crankpin
has no locating key and must be fitted
into the riBht flywheel first with the
line on end pointing to mainshaft
centres. This ensures correct registering
of the oil feed holes.
Oversize rollers are available in .0Or/2", .007", .00La/2" and .002" oversize
.diameter. t'or the first overhaul a set of new standard rollers is often
all that is required. If the shafts are worn appreciably and new shafts are
not available, the old shafts should be emeryed in lathe to remove the
ridges and races honed to give required fit with oversize roliers.
When shaft and race wear. is such that larger than .002" oversize
rollers are required it is reeommended that the worn parts be replaced as
there is danger of the larger rollers binding in retainers.
Although .250" is considered standard diameter for Indian rollers, it
should be noted that sorne new motors were set up with .249" rod rollers
anrd. .2495" mainshaft rollers and, on such -jobs when replacing rollers it
.may. be,necesqar5r to use these undersizes unless raees are.being honed or
shafts polished. Where netff rod races are installed, use of these undersize
rollers will reduce the amount of honing out required after insertion.
..V" TWIN MOTOR SERVICING 62L
Con-Rod Eaces-It should be noted that these are of light section and
contract very considerably, up to .002-.003"), when inserted into con-rods.
It is invariably necessary to hone out new con-rod races after they are
fitted to the rods. Amount of honing necessary can be reduced to a
minimum by fitting .249" diarneter rollers. Refer to Chapter 21, Machine
Shop Practice, for con-rod raee honing procedure.
Crankpin-This has no locating pin or key, being a plain taper fit in
the flywheel. It must be fitted first into thb timing flywheel when
reassembling, Iining up the oil feed hole in pin with that in flJrwheel taper
ho1e. The line on the end of crankpin must point to the mainshaft centre
and the oil feed holes will be lined up O.K. It is good policy to squirt
some gas through the mainshaft oil feed \ozzle after the crankpin has
been fitted into fl5rwheel just to make sure that the oil passages are clear.
Con-Rods-Note the "forked" rod is the front and the plain rod is the
rear on all Indian Twin models. Con-rod piston pin bushings should be
checked for pin fit before reassembling: rods and flywheels as bushing
replacement and the necessary honing or reaming are most conveniently
done with the rods out of the assembly. Note that pin bushing replace-
ment is advisable when pin clearance is .003" or greater, New bushings
are supplied .008-.010" undersize bore and should be power reamed if
convenient to give .O0t/z't pir: clearance after pressing in, or honed to give
.001" pin clearance.
No pin bushings are fitted to 30.5" model con-rods and when .003"
or more pin clearance develops both rod and piston should be honed out
for oversize pin. Note that pin should be a hand press fit in piston and
have ,001" clearance in rod.
Rod alignment should be checked and any misalignment corrected
before reassembling if rod aligning jig is available.
Bearing Retainers-The roller bearing retainers or "cages" do not
require replacement unless cracked or worn to give over .008" roller clear-
ance. When reassembling' note that open ends of retainer should not be
fitted together.
Bearing Clearances-When "fitting" bearings, allow a total con-rod
big-end clearance of .001" and mainshaft clearance of ,007-.001r/2".
Con-Rod Bearing Side Clearanee-F orked rod should have .008-.015"
side clearance between flpvheel thrust washers when crankpin nuts are
fully tightened. If end clearance exceeds .0:2O", fit shim w'ashers behind
flywheel crankpin thrust washers. If side play is less than .005", dismantle
and rub sides of forked con-rod big-end down on a sheet of emery cloth
on a level surface. Excessive side clearance.is often due to insufficient
t[ghtening of the crankpin nuts and inadequate side c]earance is sometime's
due to overtightening of crankpin nuts, drawing the flylrheels too far onto
shaft tapers.
, FlJnvheel ,Assembly End Clearance in Crankcase-tr'ree end movement
of,,assembly should be .010-.020". This end clearange i! adjusted by shim
washers behind the timing side mainshaft bearing race in crankcase.
Crankcase ilIainshaft Bearing Races-These are a press fit in the
b-Iurninurn cases. Cases should be heated to boiling wdter temperature for
'removal a.nd refittiirg
of races when necbssary. The 74|t left side race
is rbmoved by tapping- iiut 'fr6m .+he ,insidd to.outslde of .case. ' The right
side race on all models removes opposite, pressing through fioin outsiile
to inside of case. .i ." j' . :a
rtr. 264
TIGEIENINO INDIA]II TLYWIIEEL RIGHjf Ca,ANKPIN NUT

Fit th6 crukpln with the line oD end pointing towards the mainshaft centres. This ensure€
correci reeistiring of tlre oil feed hol;s. A s-ocket with one f@t handle shoultl be used tt
available. Tight€n with ?5 lbs. torque on early type Indian flvwheels and 100 lbs. torquc
on the late type which can be tdentified by the letter "2" cast on the insides'
'ttr/hen ttghteirfng the left crankpin nut after flywheel assembly is compteted, the left flywheel
malmhaft can be securely elamped in vise, but soft metal plates should be used over viac
Jaws to ayoid dmag€ to shaft beartng surface. Flywheels can be preYented from tmlng by
ttlttng Elightly ln vise so that crankpin nut is blocked by Yise jaw'
Overtightening of crankpin nuts on the early "open" t]'pe flywheels may cause a crack to
develop trom pinholo thrclgh to olren section. These early tyIE open flywheelt should bG
ca?efully examined for cracks near pin hole when leconditioning. Cracked llywheels should
be replaced.
Right side race can be removed with a hammer and pin type punch
via the two holes provided in g'ear case. T'he left side race on 74" models
is secured into case by nut inside cra,nkease. On 45" Sport Scout models
bearing raee secrrfingt nut is on outside of crankcase. On this model only
this nut is left-hand thread.
Bearlng races that have become loose in crankcase can be refitted
with sultable thickness shim stock and pressed into heated cases to give
a .003" press fit measured cold. Platirrg of bearing race to build up to
.003" larger than crankcase hole is a very ss.tisfactory method of treating
loose races'
..V" TWTNi MO.TOR 'SERVICING 623
Aligning Flywheels-If a special truing jig is not available these can

be trued up quite satisfaetorily between lathe centres, providing the shaft
centre holes are in good condition and concentric with the ihafts, An
approximate alignment can be achieved by using a straight edge across the
faces of the flywheels at about right angles to the crankpin, also check in
directly opposite position. Rap flywheels with soft hammer'so straight
edge contacts flylvheel rims evenly at 90 degrees on either side of the
crankpin. rf one fly'wheel is of slighfly smaller cliameter, make the neces-
sary allowance. See IIl. 183, page 443,
on 1934 and later models with the oil feed nozzle extension on right
mainshaft, care must be taken not to strike hammer blow on flywheels for
alignment while supported on lathe eentres or this end of shaft may be
bent or fractured.
The projecthg flywheel rim should be given sham raDs

with hammer as indicated by arrow, at- rishf *if""--t,l
-d-
untit faces are tayel, cirictea
cr-anlr-p1n, . "wi1h
itee'i
rule if truing Jig is not avaltabtre.
t
Dl{vlng a wedge between flywheets as lndtcat€d. ts the
Drocedurefor comecting this condluon.
..c,,
Squeezing flywheel rims in vice as indicated by arrows
will cor-rect condition of flywheels spread apari oppositi
to crankpin.
Ill. 255
rLYI{IIE L AIIGNIIENT
Three possible forms of flywheer misalignment are illustrated above in exaggerated form
wiih arrows indicating the action necessary to bring into alignment.
conditions "A" is the most common form of misalignment, where a combination of ,,A',
and "B" or "A', and,,C,,exists after assembly, co;rect condition,.A,,first.
NottsCondition "B" and,'C,, are occasionally experienced on lfarley md fndlan type
flywheels t'ith crankpin a plain taper fit into flywheels, i_ut does not occur on ollJr
$'here flywheels pull up against square shoulders on pin. rf an extreme case oi ,,B;-ortyi-es
it,,
is experienced that is not readity rectified by exerting pressure as iltustrale&, tiouble may
be due to wear in flywheel crankpin taper holes due t-o operation witn'in-s-urlicientty
tightened nuts; in such cases flywheel replacement is advisable.
624 INDIAN SEIRVICING
Balancing Flywheels-Rebalancing of flywheels will never be found
necessary unless a new flJrwheel has been fitted or pistons varying more
than two ciunces in weight frorn the original, are fitted. It is not necessary
to rebalance flywheels when overFize pistons are fitted or if just one
oversize piston is iitted. Standard balance for Indian twins is for flywheel
assembly to balance in any. position trhen mounted between lathe centres
or merely with mainshafts mounted orr two level rods or raiis; when
assembly. is complete with rods, but with one piston complete with rings
and pin only fitted. To balance, drill flyi;vheel rims (both wheels) with
6Aa" drill on heavy side until even balance is obtained.
' Crankca,se Reassembly-Block up right crankcase on bench top. Note
that:flylvheel thrust washers are fitted and stick these in piace on fly-
wheeis with stiff I'rea,se. Assemble right side mainshaft retainers and
rollers into right crankcase and lower fiywheel assembly 'into case.
Assemble left side mainshaft bearing rollers, retainers and .Epacer on left
shaft, coat crankcase joint surfaces with a good quality jointing shellac
or gasket goo, fit on left crankcase, tap lightly with hammer and note
joints come fiush togetirer before bolting cases up. Flywheel assembly
should revolve freely with .070t'-.020" end clearance. Note-Be sure to
apply.shellac or. goo to the centre joint surfaces at the top, between
cylinders. Note that the bolt is fitted through this and tightened up before
timing cover is fitted as on the later models the timing cover extension
prevents fitting afterwards.
Cam Valve Lifters-Note that on the 45" models the intake va.Ives
have the straight rocker lifts and these are fitted on first; the exhaust
lifts are curved and fit last on the rocker shafts.
On 74" models "forked" arld plain rocker lifts are used. The forked
lifts operate the exhaust and the plain lifts the intake valves. These must
be fitted on the rocker shafts together, with plain lift inside of forked lift.
Il1. 256
INDIAN TWfN TIIIING GEAR

MAR,,KTNGS
Valve timing ra'il] be correct when s
gears are ffisembled with markings
as shown. Coil lgnltion models have
only the two cam gears and crank-
() ;t"'"-"-\ o
t?
sllaft pinion. Magneto equipped
models have six gears as shown.
Magneto timing wlll be approxi-
mately correct wlth gears as shown
L
, o ^. r-\
o)i(o
S/
when magneto gear peg ls eDgaged

with the round peg hole on arma- ?"..^-d \ ./-(.
1\
ture shaft but should always be
cheekedby obseNing breaker.. point
opening on piston movement for
both cylinders.
Refitting Tirning Pinion-Pinion is a straight press fit onto mainshaft

with key, The thin flat washer should be turned over so the "cup" faces
in when refitting and the left-hand thread nut tig:htened securely.
Camsha,ft Bushings-Replacement involves considerable work and is
not recommended until camshaft clearance ln'bushings exceeds .005-.006".
Replacement. is simplified if new bushings are first bored out in lathe to
give about ,003" shaft clearance, then only slight reaming if any will be
necessary to provide required .001-.OOL1/2" camshaft bushing clearance.
Crankcase and timing cover should be heated for removal and refitting of
bushings.
,]
l
.,V" TWIN MOTOR SERVICING 625
Timing Cover Refitting-Use new gasket. If not available one can be

made from .015" gasket material. Gasket goo should be used if joint
surfaces are not in good condition. Note that valve lift rockers and cam
gears have been correctly installed before fitting cover and retighten cover
screws securely.
Crankcase Breather-On the 45" and Model 747 t]ne breather disc is
fitted in a recess in the back of, the oil pump-distributor housing and
seats up against the timing cover, closing breather opening' on the up
stroke of pistons and seating: on the notched edge of breather disc against
ledge in oil pump housi4g on the down stroke, allowing pressure release
via the pipe at rear top corner of pump housing, On 74" models, breather
disc of similar design is used, Iocated at front end on side of timing cover.
Loss of breather disc when assembling will cause excessive crAnkcase
pressure to build up and oil leakage from joints may result.
193? antl Later Indian OiI Pump and Disf,ributor Refitting-Note that
feed pump plung'er g'uide screw in back of pump body is securely tightened,
that gasket between pump and g'earcase is in sound condition, and that
the breather dise washer is fitted in the pump body breather passageway
recess (except 74"), Locate disc with a daub of, grease,
' fn order to have distributor head in the standard location after final
ignition timing, set rear piston 7s,, before top of compression stroke (4b,,
models) and fit cover so that slot in distributor driveshaft points to case,
that is, at right angles to machine. The driving worm geaf will turn this
shaft as body is pushed on and it will be found necesiary to turn shaft
slightly before fitting to counteract this movement so thai slot points to
case when fitted right on. Tighten oil pump body screws securely.
Ignition Timing-Install distributor head, clean and set points .020,,

gap when fully open. Revolve motor so that rear piston is /3,, before top
of stroke (45" models), then slacken breaker base control arm clamp screw
and move distributor body as required so that points are just separated
with control advanced, on the wide cam; retighten clamp screw.
. rf this procedure is followed on reassembly the distributor will fit
with the condenser towards the motor and the fiont distributor ouilet will
be for the front plug and the rear for the rear plug. The high tension
wire from the coil fits into centre distributor socket.
Top-Entl Assembly-The general reassembly of the cylinders, etc., has
been covered under "Top Motor Overhaul,, earlier in this section. Where
complete motor overhaul is being done it is most convenient to complete
all motor reassembly on the bench and then install the complete motor
unit in frame.
Refitting Motor to tr'rame-I'ollow the removal procedure in reverse.
On the 74" and, standard Scout models, motor, gearbox and primary drive
are assembled into one unit before iastallation.
Refit motor from right side of machine. secure tightening of all motor
mounting nuts is most important, conneet and adjust all controls, chains
and electrical terminals.
Lutrrication-Refill
-
oil tank and primary drive before starting up.
Refer to Section 1, "Lubrieation," of this chapter.
carburetor Acljustrnent-carburetor cleaning is normally done as part
of a "top" or complete overhaul and readjustment should bL made during
tune-up after all overhauls.. Carburetor maintenance and adjustment is
covered in Section 5.
Checktng Over After Overhaul-After reassembly has been completed,
machine should be thoroughly checked over for tightness of all nuts, bolts
and screws as well as correctness of adjustments. After rodd test machine
should be again rechecked frorn front to rear to ensure everything is tight
and in good order. A doubte check of this nature will ensure maximum
results from overhaul being realized and elimilate troubles commonly
experienced after reassembly due to carelessness and oversight.
Section 4
IGNITION TIMING
IGNITION TI}XING ADVANCE ON PISTONS
30.5" Twins TAstt
45" Twil Standard Models...........

t
45" Twin Bonneville Models... 5/8t
74" Twir. Standard Models.....

74" Twin Bonneville Models...
4 Cylinder Models.. .. . .. '/2-',n
Ignition Systern
Timing Adjustment Equipped fwins-The distributor con-
-Distributor
trol arm clamp serew can be slackened and the distributor head turned
either way to give the required timing and control arm clamp serew
retightened.
Timing Procedure With Cyliniler llead Bemoved-Clean and set points
to .020" gap fully opened. Revolve motor slowly in direction of rotation
until both valves in rear cylinder are closed and piston eomes up ta y8'!
from top of compression stroke. Advance spark control. Breaker points I
should just be separating: on the wide cam. If not, slacken control arm
distributor head clamp screw and revolve distributor head as required;
retighten screw.
If front cylinder head is removed, revolve motor over until both
valves of front cylinder are closed and piston comes up to 3/s" befors top
of stroke; points should just be separating on the narrow cam.
Ttrning Procedure Without B,emoving Cylintler Hoad-Revolve motor
until the exhaust valve on rear cylinder jusi closes (tappet just becomes
free). At this point the rear piston is just past top of exhaust stroke and
the front piston is approximately 3/s" before top of compression stroke.
The points should just be separating with the spark advanced on the
narrow cam.
On "Bonneville" model motors with greater valve overlap, the exhaust
valve on rear cylinder witl just close when rear piston is approximately
%" past top of exhaust stroke at which point the front piston is at about
the top of compression stroke and if spark cohtrol is set retarded and
IGNITION TIMING 627
distributor head set so points are just separating on the small cam, timing
wiII be approximately correct.
This method is recommended where cylinder heads are not removed.
Slight readjustment of timing may be found necessary on road test. Mov-
ing distributor head.anti-clockwise advances timing and moving clockwise
retards. Timing should be set so that when machine is accelerated quickly
under heavy load in high gear at about 25 m,p.h., with spark fuliy advanced,
knocking is just slightly evident.
Disf,ributor Iligh T€nsion Cables-Centre.cabie socket is for coil wire.
E'ront socket will be for front cylinder if oil pump has not at some time
been removed and refitted with driving'gear in different mesh from original.
To determine correct fitting of plug wires, remove distributor cap an6 note
to which cable contact the rotor points when the points are just separatirig
on the small cam. This wiil be the outlet for the front cylinder, the other
for the rear.
Condenser-Secure tightening' of, the condenser ground screw and
condenser terminal is most important. Replace condenser if rapid point
burning is expericnced.
Foint Burning-Bes.ides a defective condenser or poor condenser termi-
nal or ground contact, point trurning is often due to badly corroded battery
terminals causing excessive current to be foreed through the coil and points.
Ignition Coil-A car type igrrition coil is fitted to all distributor
equipped models. Breakageof mounting braiket has been a common fauit
due to vibration and insufficient tightening. Keep this well tightened.
Tighten low-tension terminals securely,
Fligh-Tension Wires-Freventing Short Oircuiting in Wet Weather-
Rubber caps should be obtained and fitted to the coil outlet and the three
distributor outlets on high-tension wires. These will eliminate most short-
circuiting trouble experienced during wet weather. Rubber shields at spark
plug ends will also prove useful but usually if spark plqg porcelains are
kept cIean, no short-circuiting on outside of plug will be experienced.
Magneto Servicing-Where oil eups are provided give 1 to 2 drops of
light oil every 1000 miles; clean and set points to .015" gap, Replace high-
tension cables when deteriorated.
If magneto spark becomes weak, it is recommended that the complete
magneto be removed and overhauled at a magneto service shop. Magneto
is removed by removing timing cover, freeing gear from armature taper
and removing base securing cap screws.
Timing Magneto--See Illustration No. 256 on page 624 which shows
timing gear markings which will give approximately correct timing. Tim-
ing should be checked on piston movement if heads are removed. The
procedure for timing with heads removed and with heads fitted as detailed
on distributor equipped models applies equally to magneto equipped
machined except, that variation in timing is obtained by ehanging mesh of
magneto gear. The idling gear that drives magneto can be pulled out of
mesh and magneto gear moved a tooth either way as required,. Narrow cam
fires the front eylinder and wide cam the rear cylinder. On some early
model magnetos high-tension pickups are marked 7 and 2. On these No. 1 is
the rear cylinder and No. 2 the front.
628 INDHN SERVICING
Section 5
CAN,BUEEIOB, SER,VICING
Si'ngl'e and Vertical Twin Model Carburetors
The 1948-1949 Indian "Amow" 220 c.c, O.H.V. Single and ,,Scout,, 440
c.c. O.H.V. Twin were originally equipped with an American made piston
valve type carburetor. This carburetor fea.tures an aceelerating pump.
Idling speed is adjusted by the throttle control cable adjuster at top of
carburetor. Idling mixture is the only other adjustment provided. This
is at bottom of carburetor. Turning clockwise richens idting mixture and
anti-clockwise weakens.
The small bore size of this carburetor limits top speed capabilities
of the Scout 440 c.c. Twin motor and subsequently these models were
fitted with a 7/8tt bore clip fitting type English Amal carburetor. With
this equipment, size 130 main jet generally gives best results, F.or servicing
information refer to pages 151-152 arrd 445-453.
"V" Twin Model Carburetors

Ama,l Carburetors-1951-1g52 80,, Models-These machines are fitted
with English Amal carburetors. Refer to pages 751-\b2 and 44b-4b3 for
servicing information on this equipment.
Linkert and Schebler Carburetors-Either Linkert or Schebler ear-
buretors have been fitted to practically all fndian ,,V,, tvvin models produced
prior to 1951. The design of these carburetors is practically identical.
Ailjusting Procedure-Refer to pages 148-151.
HIGH SPEED CHOXE LOYV SPEED

NEEDLE ADJ. VALVE DISC ,{EEDLE AtrI.
m. 257
SCIIEBLER
CAEBURDTOB
r}lts part sectloned lltu-
FLOAT stration views the carbu-
FLOAT VALVE LEVEL retor frcm the air ln-
AND tako end and shows the
LEVEL AAM float mechanism, choke
and mixture adjusilng
neealles.
FLOAT
VALVE
SEAT
_ Bowl nut-Avoid overtightening the bowl bottom nut on the Schebler

type earburetor with alloy body as body threads on this type can be
stripped by overtightening.
CARBUREITOR SEIRVICING 629
Carburetor Eeconditioning-tr'or best results this is usually required

at 20-30,000mile complete motor reconditioning periods. Replacements
normally required are a new throttle shaft and shaft bushings and in some
instances throttle dise, float and float shut-off needle.assembly. Throttle
shaft and bushing replacement should be made if clearance exeeeds .006".
Disc replacement is oniy necessary when noticeably worn. F Ioat replace-
ment is only necessary when noticeably deteriorated, cracked or broken.
I'loat needle and seat replacement should be made when over-flooding is
experienced that is not corrected by giving needle a sharp rap onto seating.
Throttle Sh"a{t Busfung Repla,cement-Remove old bushings from car-
buretor body by warming body, inserting "easy out" and tapping on end
of "easy out," or tap out with offset drift. Tap in new bushings with light
hammer and soft dri{t or piece of hardwood. Note that throttle dise is
cdrrectly refitt€d and screws well tightened while throttle is helcl in elosed
position. ft is good policy to scratch a nlark on throttle flisc a,gainst shaft
to ensure correct reassembling. Note that throttle dise edg'e is cut at an
angle, usually 13 degrees, and dises where stampedr(t13l should:be fitted
with the "13" to the right of the shaft viewed from manifold side with
throttle closed.
Float I-evel-Adjustment is seldom required. On most types standard
setting is float measuring 1/+" with shutoff needle on seat as shown in
fllustration No.257. When out more than.%s,,either way, adjustment can
be made by bending the float arm between the pivot and the float. Care
must be taken in this operation not to damage the float and removal from
bowi is reiommended for this job.
Excessive play between fingers on float lever arm and shutoff needle
top may r€sult in weak mixture due to the lost motion causing float
-9nd
needle not to lift for refilling bowl until level has dropped corsid;rably.
The top finger can be carefully bent down so that there is not more than
.003" play at this point.
MAIN JET AtlD VENTURI EUSr{rN6

SPRAY NOZZLE
THROTTLE
VALVE OISC
Irl, 258
SCHEBLER
CAB,BURDTOR
"Cross Sectioned,,
This cross section view
illustrates th€ couect as-
semby of the main Jet
nozzle and spring and
the venturi.
After reassembling al-
ways check to make cet-
tain that the main Jet
spray nozzie end ftts up
through hole in yenturi
as illustrated.
MAIN NOZZLE
SPRING
Float Bowl Ga,skets-Note that Linkert carburetors are only fitted

with one gasket at the bottom on outside of bowl, for bowl nut. Schebler
carburetors use a gasket at top of bowl at carburetor body, a thick cork
gasket at bottom of bowl inside against shoulder at bottom of body, also
bowl nut gasket at bottom outside of bowl.
Venturi Sizes-Standard sizes are L6/ta" for 45" models and 1%0" for
74" models which give best results for all-round service. lAa" larget size
is used on some speed models but are not recommended for average use
as best all-round performance is obtained with smaller venturi.
Lorv Speed Needle Lifter Spring Seat lVasher-ft is most important
that this washer be refitted, if removed at any time during servicing. It
should be filted with the shouidered side up. Absence of this washer will
allo M an excess amount of air to be drawn past the low speed needle and
will. s6rnpls6ely upset the low speed carburetor mixture. If difficulty
should be experienced'in getting a g'ood low speed carburetor adjustment
after complete dismantling, a check should be made to determine the
presence of this washer against the carburetor body at the bottom of the
spring surrounding' the low speed needle, which lifts the lever connected
to the choke.
Float Bowl Location and Float Needle Testing-The standard iocation
of the float bowl is with the float valve and g:as line connection between
the choke lever and the high speed needle. It is permissible to rotate the
float chamber a slight amount either way to enable satisfactory connect-
ing'of the gas line. If moved a considerable amount, however, there is
danger that the float may rub on the lower extension of the carburetor
body, preventiqg proper shutting off. It is advisable to locate the float
bowl in the position reguired to connect up satisfactorily with the gas line,
then before fitting carbuletor finally to manifold, turn the carburetor
upside down and try blowing through the float valve gas line conneetion.
It should not be possible to blow through. Turn carburetor right way up
and blow up from below and it should be possible to blow through easily,
If not, it is possible that the float is rubbing on the lower carburetor body,
and float bowl should be rotated to a position where no rubbing occurs.
Throttle Control Connection-Note that outer easing for throttle
control cable is secure in clip and that securing screw is well tightened.
Best procedure is to slack off the idling screw stop so that throtile valve
can be pushed fully shut, then stip throttle cable end into nipple and while
holding throttle lever in shut position open throtile grip about % of a turn,
then tighten nipple securing.screw, start up and reset idling speed screw.
This procedure will ensure that throtile closes fully. rt is important to
check that the screw which clamps throttle lever to the throtilL shaft on
Linkert carburetors is securely tightened. Looseness at this point, allow-
ing' lever to rotate slightly on throttle shaft, is sometimes an obscure
cause of throttle control irregularity. rt is good policy to hold the thror,ile
valve shut when cartruretor is off and tighten this serew, making sure
that lever is about 7Ae" ft:ort the closed end of throtile stop.
Carburetor Joint Flange and Manifold Nipple Air Leakage-Difficulty
in obtaining a g'ood carburetor idling adjustment is often due to air leakagi
at these points. If this is suspected, fill an oil can with gasoline and with
motor idling, squirt some gasoline around each joint, one at a time. A
noticeable change in the idling of the motor wili be immediatelv evident
if there is leakage at any joint. rt is advisable to replace the manifold
flange gasket whenever carburetor is serviced and to tighten the three
GEARBOX AND CLUTCH SERVICING
flange screws very securely. Mahifold nipple nuts should be'tight. If a

suitable wrench is not available, they can be tightened with a blunt punch.
Schebler Needlo Installlng-The high speed needle should be fitted
before fitting ftoat bowl as in some instances, particularly if needle is bent
slightly, it may not enter seat. ff this occurs it w'ilt not be possible [o
adjust high-speed mixture and needle may be .damaged when screwinS:
down.
Section 6
GEAR,BOX AND CLUTCII SER,VICING

Prirnary Chain Adjustment-The "V" Twin type adjustmeni is shown
259 on page 633. A similar adjustment is used on the
in Illustration
"Warrior" 500 c.c. Twin. On the "Brave" and "Arrow" Singles, and the
440 c.c. Twin, primary chain is not adjustable and when worn
to extent that chain strikes chaincase, chain should be repiaced'
Primary Drivo Dismantling-Refer to details under Section Three,
Motor Servicing, (b) Motor Removal, (c) Separating Motor from Gearbox,
for details on dismantling primary drives on "V" Twin models.
C.lutch Servicing-No clutch servicing is normally necessary until com-
plete motor overhaul periods providing primary drive oil level is main-
tained and t/2t' free slack allowed in foot pedal.
Dismantling is only necessary when either excessive or "sIip"
develop that are not due to oil being too heavy or control slack excessive,
causing drag', or insufficient control slack causing slip. Weak spri4gs or
worn fibre clutch discs are the usual causes of slip not due to lack of
control slack.
Disma,ntling Clutch-Tighten the clutch spring compressing tool onto
clutch worm to compress springs if this tool is available. Remove the six
spring stud nuts and washers, the spring plate, springs, pressure plate,
release worm and thrust bearing followed by the seven steel and eight
fibre alternated discs.
Clutch Hub Nut-Note this is left-hand thread. It is not necessary to
remove this unless it is desired to remove clutch hub from mainshaft,
which is only necessary for replacement of mainshaft or clutch sprocket.
removal. Hub is a taper fit to mainshaft.
Clutch Beplacoments-Replace fibre discs when wotrr 1,64" or more, if
cracked or if drive post g'rcoves have considerable wear.
Standard spring length is %"; replace if less than 1%0".
Numbot of Springs-16 are used in ?4" models, L2 in 37" and 45"
models. Where 12 springs are used, group together in gtoups of threes
leaving out a sprirg at equal spacings of every fourth spring stud. 16
springs may be used in the 37" and 45" models to eliminate clutch slip
under heavy service conditions, especially sidecar use.
Clutch fhrow-out Thrust Beedng-R"aces and balls with retalner should
be replaced if races are noticeably pitted. Release worm thread should be
thoroughly cleaned if rusted and g:reased prior to assembly.
Clutch B,eassembly
Be sure mainshaft clutch hub nut is tight. Give two or three raps with
hammer on socket wrench handle, anti-clocfwise (left-hand thread).
Order of Clutch Reassembly-45" and ?4" models up to 1945:-
1. Plain fibre friction disc %" thick.
2. Steel disc.
3. Plain fibre friction disc ys" thick.
4. Steel disc.
5. Plain fibre friction disc 7e" thick.
6. Steel disc.
7. Plain fibre friction disc Ys" thick,
8. Steel disc.
9. Plain fibre friction disc %" thick.
10. Steel disc.
11. Plain fibre friction disc 7s" thick.
12. Steei disc.
13. Grooved fibre friction disc 7s" thick, fitted with grooved surface
facing out.
14. Steel disc.
75. lAa" grooved fibre friction disc fitted with grooved surface inwards.
16. Heavy steel plate with release worm arm and bearings.
17. Clutch spri4gs and ciutch spring pressure plate.
18. Lock washers and nuts; tighten pressure plate right up against
shoulders on studs.
1946-1948 ?4" Models Clutch Plate Changes-The following changes
from the above assembly were made on these models. No. 1, a %e,, grooved
disc is used first in place of the la" plain disc. No. 14, steel disc is removed
and is replaced with an L/a" fibre disc next to t]ne Tta,, fibre disc. No. 1b
w'ithout any steel disc between. This arrangement provides about ]/g,,more
compression of clutch springs and increases spring pressure.
The Indian clutch spring compression tool should be used to compress
springs for starting spring nuts if available. If not, tilt spring pressure
plate so one washer can be fitted and nut started on one or two threads,
then exert pressure on pressure plate directly opposite so springs are
compressed sufficientiy to enable starLing nut on opposite side, after which
remaining washers and nuts can be fitted. F'otd over washers after
tightening nuts fully.
Refitting Frimary Drive Cover-Note that chain tensioning shoe has
been fitted and adjusted to give 1/z-5/8t' free slack in top row of chain,
that engine drive sprocket nut has been hammered tight anct lockwasher
folded over. IJnless endless type primary chain is fitted, note that
connecting link outside plate and cotter pins have been installed. Coat
primary drive joint surfaces with gasket goo and fit new cover gasket.
Draw on primary drive cover by inserting screwdriver in worm shaft end
and turning anti-c1ock'rise.
Fitting Operating Arm and Control Rocl Adjustment-Operating arm
'on worm shaft, has octagon hole; moving one flat gives a movement of 7s
turn. 854 tur4ing this arm over- a C.!rqn$e of 7re turn is obtained. Set arm
so that when ivorm is turnecl anti-clockwise to point where slack in worm
is taken up, arm is between 30 and 45 degre-es to the rear of vertical
position. Adjust peddl rod so that with heel pedal approxirnately r1o,'
above footboaral, .rod connects with hole, in arm, fit cotter pin, tighten
arm worm nut.
GEARBOX AND CI,UTCH SERVICING 633
ERIIARY DRrVrrlG. CHAri

(4.RoLLr.R v/lDTH)
boo
o
io
9o9
cHAlIr TEnsrOr{IltG 5ll0g'
THE INDIAN 74 GDAtsEOX AND GENERATOR DB,IYE

Ttre drive illustrated is common to Indian ?4 mod.els from 1934-1948 and 80,, models 1951-19b2.
The same chai[ adjustment is used on 45" models. When chain up and down slack exceeds
1" it should be adjusted to lkt'-6/Btt. Adjustment is correct when chain can be moved up
and.down approximately the amount of inspection plug opening.
Ill, 260
INDIAN CLUTCH ROI)

AD.TUSTMENT
The clutch operating arm
should be at the angle shown
when clutch is fully engaged,
but with no slack in arm.
Clutch leYer mountitrg hole
is 8-sided, removing and
turning over s'ill giYe varia-
tion of Y6 turn. After locat-
ing arm, adjust control rod
to allow U4" ftee slack In
the foot pedal movement.
Reversing Clutch Pedal Operation-ft is possible to change the Indian
clulch pedal operation over from heel pedal down to engage, over to toe
pedal down to engage, similar to the Hariey clutch operation. This is done
by removing the clutch arm and refitting exactly one-half turn around
from the original position. Best operation will be obtained if arm is fitted so
that it is 30 to 45 degrees to fron+. of straight down when turned
anti-clockwise to point of starting disengagement. Then set clutch pedal
so that toe pedal is la" above footboard, adjust length of clutch rod at
clevis so that clevis hole lines up with pin hole in arm, fit clevis pin and
cotter pin, tighten clevis locknut.
Care should be taken in models with changed-over clutch operation
to ensure that when toe pedal is fully down, lever arm does not come up
to a horizontai position, as when disengagement is attempted at some
time arm may swing up above horizontal and pressing heel pedal will then
turn the arm clockwise instead of anti-clockwise and it rvill not be possible
to disengage clutch until arm is pushed down below horizontal.
Brazirlg a short leng+,1, of 1" x 7/B't slrap iron on clutch pedal of
correct length so that it stops ag'ainst footboard support, so that toe pedal
cannot be depressed too low, will avoid danger of release arm swinging
up above horizontal as described above.
Indian Clutah Pedal Reinforcing--The clutch heel and toe pedals often
become bent down so that the foot will slip off, especially when wet.
Fitting of heel and toe pedal rubbers, if available, will prevent foot
slippage on pedal, but when pedals are noticeably bent they should be
straightened up about 10 degrees above horizontal and a reinforcing piece
of strap iron brazed on to prevent a recurrence of pedal bending.
Gearbox Dismantling
Primary clrive dismantling that is necessary prior to gearbox
dismantling is covered in Section 3, (b) Motor Removal, pages 617-618.
37", 74" a,ndl 15" Standaral Scout Models-Have hlgh gear engaged-
This will prevent the mainshaft thrust washer from dropplng irtto gearbox
when mainshaft is removed. It will be held between the sliding gear and
drive gear dogs.
1. Remove gearbox top cover plate and shift lever.
2. Remove large hexagon nut inside gearbox next to left side bearing
that secures clutch sprocket. X'irst fold over lock washer and undo nut,
using hammer and heavy blunt screwdriver or punch.
3. Remove right side mainshaft nut and kickstarter gears.
4. Mainshaft and clutch assembly can be withdrawn to left side.
5. Remove the shifter fork shaft retaining screw in case at left end
of shaft. The shifter shaft and fork can now be removed by tapping out
shaft to left with punch through hole in right side of case.
6. Remove sliding gear and the mainshaft thrust washer on right side
against the driving gear.
?. Remove the piston pin type lockring securing: the countershaft
supporting the triple gear. Tap this shaft out wit}r punch to left side through
hole provided in right side of case. The triple gear w"ill now drop into the
bottom of case.
8. Remova.l of the rear drive sprocket nut, sprocket and spacer witr
permit the driving gear to be removed from case, after w'hich the triple
g:ear can be lifted out.
GEARBOX AND CLUTCH SERVICING 635
9. Bearing removal is not necessary unless replacements are required.

This is best judged before dismantling. If straight up and down play in
shafts is under .006", further bearing service can be obtained,
Ge.artrox Replacernents-Replacement of sliding gear and oceasionally
the triple countershaft gear is sometimes required after long service. A
moderate amount of rounding off of the corners of the sliding gear and
triple gear teeth is natural after some service on this type of gearbox
and this condition does not call for gear replacement until a substantial
portion of the gear tooth surface is affected.
Gearbox Reassembly-31", 74" a,nd. 45" Sta,ndard Scout Models.-
1. tr'it leather oil seal 'washer in+-o end of right side countershaft
bushing in gear case.
2. Install tnple gealw,ith large end to left and fit countershaft; tap
right in and fit iockring right down into groove in left side bushing.
3. Install right side mainshaft drive gear.
,1. Coat mainshaft thrust washer with thick grease and stick into
position inside dogs of right side mainshaft drive gear.
5. Install sliding gear, with shifter fork, slip shaft through from left
side and tighten in lockscrew securely. Lock this screw by punching
aluminum case into screw head slot with punch,
6. At this stage, on 1934 and later models with chain primary drive
using endless type chain, the gearbox should be boltecl up to the motor,
primary chaincase backplate fitted and assembly continued as follows:
7. With chain tensioning' shoe removed or adjustment slackened right
off, start mainshaft into gearbox with cluteh sprocket s€curing: nut and
lockwasher over mainshaft as it passes through bearing in gearbox left
side, fit chain over clutch sprocket, fit engine sprocket in chain, fit
generator drive sprocket in second row of chain from right, then slide
this whole assembly into case.
8. Make sure engine sprocket key is in place on shaft and sprocket
key'way registers'with key, tighten engine sprocket nut and clutch sprocket
nut securely; use socket wrench and hammer on eng:ine sprocket nut aJrd
hammer and punch on clutch sprocket nut; fold over lockwashers.
9. Adjust primary drive chain tension shoe to 7/2"-54" slack. Fit new
chain cover gasket-; draw on cover by turning clutch worm anti-clockwise
with screwdriver.
10. Gaskets-Gasket g:oo is normally sufficient for the chaincase back
plate joints at the gearbox and crankcase but a paper gasket .010-.015"
thick should be used on the cover. Gasket goo should also be used on this
if joint surfaces are not in good condition or if oil leakage has been
experienced.
11. I'it generator belt and pulley and tighten pulley nut.
12. l''it gearbox cover and note that fork engages with the sliding
gear shifter fork pin.
13. Fit rear drive sprocket spacer, sprocket and nut. Fit rear chain
and tighten sprocket nut by hammering on wrench with high gear
engaged and rear brake applied.
14. Assemble kickstarter parts in the following order: Cupped washer
with cupped side out, spring, kickstarter gear, ratchet, Iockwasher and nut.
15. Refill primary drive with S.A.E. 20 oil.
Malnshaft Entl Play Atljustrnent-.005" end play is eorrect, If over
,015" or under .002" adjust by changing mainshaft thrust washer fitted
against drlve gear on r:ight side. Washers are available ln .085", .090",
.096". .101" and .106" thickness.
Jumping Out ol Gear Trouble-This may be due to insufficient spring
pressure on the shifter fork rack locating ball. The screw with large
hexagon locknut on top cover regulates the spring pressure on the gear
shift locating ball. Turning in clockwise increases pressure. Do not increase
pressure beyond point where gear change is noticeably stiff. On 45,, Sport
Scout and 741 models the spring pressure adjusting screw is located on
the lower front of gearbox, between the engine plates and can be adjusted
from below after nut is slackened, using a corner serewclriver.
If jumping out of gear still occurs, trouble is likely due to gear tooth
wear if trouble is with 1ow and second, and gear dog wear if jumping out
of high gear is experienced,
rtr. 261
INDIAN ?4 PRIMARY DRIIIE CASE ASSDMBLY
No gaskets are orlginally used on the primary drive inner joint surfaces at motor o! gearbox-
Coat_joint surfaces with gasket E:oo and iit the cover as shown, securlng by tightgDinEl
ths t}Ir@ countersunk head. tlolts and nuts Ught.
. tlt. 262
,INDIAN ?4 PRIMABY I'RI\ID CIIATN AND SPBOCI(DT ASSEMBLY
With the endless type chain, install clutch sprocket with mainshaft and primary chain ove!
DOth Spr@kets, mesh generator drive sprocket in second row from right and slide complete
assembly into case as shown.
GEARBOX AND CLUTCH SERVICING 637
Gearbox Disma,ntling, 45" Sport Seout, 741 30.5" and 3?"-

1. Remove primary chain cover and dismantle clutch plates.
2. Remove engine sprocket nut and free from taper.
3. Remove the five tha" }:ex head T/+" cap screws behind clutch sprocket
using a thin 'wa1l socket and exf-ension. Remove the additional back plate
securing cap screw at front motor sprocket.
4, Remove kickstarter ratchet gear from mainshaft right end.
5. The cl.utch sprocket, mainshaft, clutch sprocket bearing and the
primary chaincase backplate which forms the transmission end cover can
now be withdrawn to the left of machine.
6. Remove shifter shaft from left side by tapping on end at right side.
Remove shifter fork and sliding gear through left side opening.
?. Remove sprocket nut on right side, sproeket and spacer, then
remove drive gear from left side of geartrox.
8, Remove countershaft lockring and tap shaft out to left side.
9. Triple gear can now be lifted out through left side gearbox opening.
Gearbox Reassembly-45" Sport Scout, ?41 80.5" and 37"-
1. Install triple gear in case with small end to right side, (Oil seal
washer shouid be first fitted in right side countershaft bushing, if
removed..y
2. Stick mainshaft thrust washer to sprocket drive gear with stiff
grease inside dogs and install sprocket drive gear through right bearing.
3. Raise triple gear from bottom of case and install countershaft a^rrd
fit lockring at left end.
4. Instalt shifter fork and sliding gear and fit shifter shaft.
5. Primary drive case backplate which forms gearbox end cover should
now be fitted using new g:asket, together with clutch sprocket, bearing
and mainshaft.
6. The five Y+" coarse thread cap screws should be fitted with
shakeproof washers and tightened moderately using a thin wall 1Aa" socket,
An additional cap screw. is fitted close to engine sprocket.
7. Note that where an endless chain without removable connecting link
is used, the primarSz chain shouJd be fitted onto the clutch sprocket and
eagine sprocket prior to fitting backplate to gearboi. Note that spacer
between primary drive baekplate and left side engine plate on the rear
footboard support rod is fitted.
8. Ifamrner tighten engine sprocket nut. Fit primary chain tensioner
shoe. Reassemkrle clutch as detaiied under ''Clutch Reassembly."
9. Refit prirnary drive cover with new gasket; turn clutch release
worm aati-clockwise with screwdriver to draw o.n chaincase cover.
.. 10. Replace gearbox rear drive sprocket spacer, sprocket, nut and rear
chain, hammer tighten nut. !'it bupped washer with cup out, spring,
sJarter gear,_ ratchet, lockwasher and nut. Tighten ratchet mainshaft nut
secule]y and lock.
11. Refill primary drive with S.A.E. 20 oil.
'" : Gearbox Shifter Arrn Pinch Bolt-Check tightness of this bolt' on'
shift.er shaft at front of gearbox between engine plates.
]Iainshaft f,trtl Play-.005" is standard end play butif within a range
of .302-.O15" no.,alteration'isi necessar:y. Adjustment."can be made:'when
assembling gearbox by a different thickness rtainshaft thiust.washer'or.
t
by removing or adding shims against right side bearing behind the rear
sprocket drive gear inside box.
Section 7
.*
tsLECIBICAL SYSIEM ,
Battery Terminals-Clean terminals when servicing battery, coat with
g'rease and tighten securely. Negative terminal is g:rounded on all models
except "Brave" Single which has Positive g:round.
Battery Mounting-The Indian battery mounting is subject to con-
sidereble vibration and loo,sening and actual loss of battery in operation
may be experienced if not securely tightened. Be sure to tighten securing'
screw locknuts.
Wiring and Switches-When overhauling, all wiring terminals at
switch, terminal block, ammeter, lights, horn, eoil, distributor and
condensor should be checked for tightness.
Wiring should be examined, worn or bare spots in insulation taped up,
Wires should be clipped or taped to frame and forks where necessary to
prevent abrasion.
Fuses-All 1940 models were equipped with a 20 amp. fuse located in
terminal block below saddle, between positive battery and ammeter,
covering all circuits except the stoplight switch,
Al1 1941 models except the Junior Scout were equipped with two
fuses, one under the saddle in terminal block protecting the stoplight
switch circuit only and the other fuse under switch panel cover, protecting
the lighting circuits. E uses do not cover generator or other electrical
circuits on 1941 models.
Burned out fuses indicate a short circuit, which may be due to
insulation worn through at some point in u'iring or a wire terminal shorting
to ground. Dirty battery terminals may also cause fuse trouble.
Before replacing a fuse, bridge the two fuse contacts tvith a metal
object, turn on spttch and observe ammeter reading. lf an unusually
heavy discharge is shown, trace wiring to find cause of short circuit
and repair before installing new fuse.
On many 1940 models the fuse has been removed and contacts
"bridged." This is considered good policy as it eliminates possibility of
Senerator damage due to fuse failure during operation.
For an emergency repair an old fuse can be repaired by removing
one of the end caps and inserting some rolled up silver paper from a
cigarette carton.
Generator Servicing (Autolite)
Lubrication-2 to 3 drops of light oil to bearing oil cups al 1000-mile
lubrication periods.
Charging Rate AdJustment-The charBing rate setting required win
depend upon the amount of night driving, av€rage speed as well as the
light load and condition of battery, Rate should be sufflcient to maiataln
charge without excessive overcharging. Erequent need for addition of
water to maintain battery electrolyte level is indication of too hlEh a
charging rate.
tr'or normal sen'lce a m€udmum atnmeter reading of 6 to 7 amps.
without any lights on, w{ll be found most suitable.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 639
To Atljust Cherging-Remove generator right. end commutator band

cover. Move the adjustable brush (narrow brush) 'with the rotation of
armature to increase output and against the rotation to decrease output.
Be.arings-Replace when straight up and down play of .004" or more
can be felt in armature shaft end. Pack bearings with fibrous grease when
assembling and soak bearing felts with oil.
Bearings are a very light press fit in end covers and on armature
shaft. Note order of oil seal assembly'when dismantling and refit in same
order.
Cornmutator-Clean with gas soaked rag or fine sandpaper. At
if commutator is
complete overhaul periods of approximately 20,000 miles
noticeably worn, have turned in lathe to true up. Undercut commutator
mica segments %2" with ground-down hacksaw blade.
Brushes-ff worn shorter tbar^ 1/rc", replace.
Field Coils-Clean off any oil on insulation and dry. Note that
insulation is sound and that joint between two field coils is insulated. Test
for complete circuit through coils with battery.
Brush Terminal Connections-X'ield coil lead connects to the
adjustabie (narrow) brush. Lead from cutout terminal connects to the
positive brush (insulated large brush). Other brush is the negative ground
brush and has the ground lead on brush holder.
Note that on 74" and Standard Scout models with a clockwise
generator rotation looking at drive end, positive brush is to the right of
the narrow brush, facing commutator end.
On 30.5", Sport Scout 45" and model 741 machines with anti-clockwise
generator, armature rotation viewed from drive end, positive brush is
to the left of the narro'w field brush, when facing commutator end.
Generator End Cover Scrervs-Tighten these very securely w'hen
reassembling.
Cutout-Speclfioations-Point gap is .025", air gap at top of core
.030". Points should close at approximately 900 r.p.m. and approximately
6.4 volts.
When overhauling generator, clean contaet points with sandpaper and
set to above clearances. If cutout sticks in closed posit-ion after generator
has slowed below charging speed and causes discharging at low speeds,
increase cutout spring pressure. F ailure of points to close properly may
be due to excessive spring pressure, point or air gap.
If cutout fails to function properly after checking above, replace.
Make sure eutout makes a good ground connection and that terminals are
tight.
Generator Chain Ilrive-Sport Scout and Model 741-Check chain
tension at 1000-mile intervals. ff slack exceeds 7/2", adjust to 7+" slack in
tightest spot midway between sprockets by slackening top pivot bolt
slightly, slackening the front adjusting nut and tightening the rear
adjusting nut to swing generator ahead to tighten chain and opposite to
slacken.
Generator Belt Drive-funior Scout Models-A V-belt drive is used
with similar adjustment as the chain drive type described above. Slack
should not exceed 3/4tt. Wherl adjusting, a1low /a" slack.
1
Generator Belt Driv+7L", fr*rly 37" and,45" Models-Belt is adjusted
by sliding generator to frame seat post clamp up or down on frame. Slack
should not exceed 3/4tt. W}:erL adjusting, allow /a,, slack.
Generator Drive Alignment-When installing generator into frame
clarnp, care should be taken to note that generator is projected through
clamp the right distance to put generator sprocket or pulley in alignment
with the driving sprocket or pu1ley. Misalignment ,will cause rapicl chain
or belt wear.
Hearllight Adjustrnent
Pre-focus bulbs or sealed beam units are used on all late models.
Beam position on road is adjustable by slackening the headlight mounting
stud nut and moving to give the required setting. Retighten nut securely.
Section 8
FORKS, tr'RAMD AIID WITrcELS

Front Forks
Sport Scout Type Link Adjustments-When excessive link sideplay
develops (1/e+" ot more) slacken the two top and the lower rear link pinch
bolts and spindle locknuts. Turn spindles in to tighten fully, then back off
approximately r/a turn; retighten pinch bolts on links and then spindle
locknuts. The lower front spindle end play can only be adjusted by
removing the lower rear spindle and shock absorber piates and tightening
one link one turn. To get a good aljustment on this spindle it is usualiy
necessary to remove one link anC fit a suitable thickness spacing washer.
Steering Head Bearing Adjustment-Sport Scout-Siacken handlebars,
slacken top head stem nuts "B", slacken pinch bott "E", tighten down
cone nut "C" with moderate pressure, then back off 1,40 turn, retighten top
nuts "B", retighten pinch bolt "E". See Illustration 263.
m. 263
SPORT SCOUT STEERING HEAI)

BEARING ADJUSTI}TENT
"C" is adjusting cole nut, "E"
pinch bolt, of steering
stem locknuts. Tlghtness of pinch
bolt "E" and stem top nuts "B"
should be checked every 1000 miles.
Secure tightening is most impoltant.
Tighten "E" with thinwaU socket,
tighten "8" with punch if suitable
wrench not available. ff looseness
develops stem threads may strlp
allowing fork spring to push top
fork bracket completely off stem,
possibly resulting in accident.
X'ORKS, E'RAME AND WHEELS 641
Steering Head Bearing ,Adjustment-1946-1948 India,n 74" Models-

Loosen artd remove the steering damper knob and the cup spacing w-asher
exposing the two fork stem nuts. Loosen the top locknut and loosen the
fork top lug pinch bolt. Tighten down the lower stem nut with moderate
pressure until fully tightened, then slacken about 1,{o turn. Retighten pinch
bolt and then retighten top locknut. Head bearing is best checked by
placing a block under motor, lifting front wheel clear from ground. E ront
forks should revolve perfectly freely and there should be no perceptible
play in head bearing.
1946-1948 Indian 74" Fork Link Adjustment-Fork link spindle washer
shouid be free to turn with barely perceptible play. Note-washers on one
side may be tight but this is just due to fork working over to one side. If
one lvasher on each spindle turns freely without perceptibie side play,
spindle adjustment is satisfactory.
If there is noticeable side play between washers and links, adjust as
follows, adjusting one spindle at a time. Slacken nuts on both ends of
shaft. Free the left side link from shaft taper by giving shaft end a sharp
rap with hammer, then tighten left side nut up until shaft can just be
turned in link. Now effect adjustment by turning the shaft out from the
right end a quarter of a turn at a time and after each quarter turn, note
that washer still turns free. Adjust until there is about .003"-.005" clear-
ance between washer and link, then tighten both the left and right shaft
end nuts. Some clearance will tre taken up in this operation and if one
washer is not free after this is done, reslacken nuts and turn spindle in
slightly and retighten nuts. Note-difficulty is sometimes experienced in
moving these fork shafts. It is invariably due to the shaft not being freed
from the taper in fork link at Ieft end, After slackening'left end nut, be
sure to give rap on end of spindle with hammer before attempting
adjustment.
Steering llead Bearing Adjustrnent ?r[" Models and All Leaf Spring
Typo Forks 37" and {$"-ft61n6vs steering stem top nut, raise handle-
bars, tighten stem cone nut fully, back off %o turn, replace handlebars,
tighten top stem nut and fold over lockwasher; retighten the two handlebar
clamp bolts.
Fork Link Spintlle and Rocker Stud Bushings-Removable bushings
are fitted to the lower rockers on all leaf spring models and removable
bushings in the fork g'irder on the Sport Scout type forks. Bushings can be
replaced by tapping out with a hammer and drift.
Spinrlle Replacement-The Sport Scout type fork spindles are too
hard and not sufficiently "tough." They are subject to breakage and it is
good policy to replace all spindles on Sport Scout models at every overhaul.
This applies especially where maehine is operated on rough roads.
I[heels
Vfiheel Remova,l 74" Turin and 4 Cylinrler Models-On all of these
models fitted with interchangeable wheels it is only necessary to remove the
six tapered hex-head bolts that secure wheel to brake drum and remove
the eentre axle when wheel can be removed leaving the brake drum in
forks. The rear chain is not disturbed. Speedorneter drive can be sw{rng
free from hub.
To remove rear wheel from frame of 1940 and later models with
closed in mudguards, lean maehine far enough to left to enable centre
stand to be lowered, then lean back so that machine rests on both jiffy
stand and left leg of centre stand. Wheel can now he removed from right
side.
t*
Refitting 14" anLd 4 Cylintler Type Wheels-Be sure to retighten the
six bolts securing wheel to brake drum very securely. Be sure speedometer F
drive ring prongs engage with wheel bearing nut slots when fitting chain
adjusting lug and axle. Tighten axle nut securely, L
I
Vflheel Bemoval 3?" anrd 45" Models-Rear-Disconnect rear chain,
brake rod and brake anchorage, remove right axle nut and pulI axle out
to left of machine,
Front Wheel-Disconnect control cable at arm and cabie adjuster
from brake plate, remove axle and wheel is free to drop out.
Vfheel Befitting-Note that speedometer drive ring prongs engage
with rear lvheel procket nut slots and that nuts are tightened seeurely,
Check front lvheel brake ad.justment. Note that rear wheel axle chain
plates contact chain adjusting screws.
a
Wheel Bearings-?4" and 4 Cy[naler Models, Interchangorble Wheels- s
A double row yoller bearing is used in the wheel hub. The standard Indian
motor bearing rol}ers, 1/4t' diarneter x .307" long, conr,ained in two retainers,
are used. The brahe druin is mounted on a self-contained double row
ball trearing. Note that grease nipple on the left side of hub lubricates the
hub roller bearings and the nipple on the brake drum lubricates the brake
drum ball bearing. Avoid over-tubrication of the trrake drum bearing.
Dismantiing, eleaning and repacking wheel bearings is recommended
every 10,000 miles.
SPROCT.ET NUT
LOCX SCRE!V
ADJUSTABLE NUi
SOLID AXLE LOCK WA5HER
HOLLOW AXLE
FRAME PLA:E
SPAC ER
WHEEL WHEEL
\ AoJusrlNG
BEARING BEAEING NUT
HOUSING
\.oro.n.,
^r,
WHEEL sHOULD BE ADJUSTED TO HAVE ONLY
REAR WHEEL CRO5S SECTTON stDE pLAy sur EE ABLE ro sptN
f*r#fr*,
nl. 264
TNDIAN 30.6" AND 46" R,EAR EUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
AdjuEtment for the tapered roller bearings ts on the right sid.e. Adjust when side play at
rim exc*ds 362". Slacken locknut, tighten adjusting nut, slack off ya turn and retighten
locknut. Do not orertighten, barely perceptible shake at rim is desirable. Broken hollow
axles and solid axles occasionally occur on these models, Very excessive beiling ptay tbat
suddenly deyelops llay be due to either broken hollow or solid centre ule.
1
Spring ['ra,rne Servicing ,{
Spring Framo Maintenance-Regular g:rease-gun lubrication of t}re

four grease nipples and periodic checking of the wheel axle nut, slipper
l
t
spindle,bolt "A" and pinch bolt "B" are the onry mairtenance normaly
required.
Dismantling-Dismantling of the spring frame assembties will not be
required except to make replacement of a slipper cylinder ,,E,, due to
breakage at rear axle fork which sometimes occuis on lhe chain side, or to
replace a broken spring', which is unusual.
Dismantling Procedure-Removing Spring Unit from Frame_
1, Remove rear wheel.
2. Remove the small g'rub screw in the top frame casting near the
mrrdguard support lug. (Soak with penetrating ;il if tight ana -r"p on end
of screw driver with hammer to loosen.) The top dus-t cover slieve can
now be lowered.
3. Unscrew and remove both top and bottom spindle bolts ,,A.,n
4. Loosen pinch bolt "8" and unscrew and rLmove lower cup ,.I,, at
bottom of cylinder.
5. Compress the springs by fitting a spacer 2,t long, 7/a,, bore over
the bottom of the sripper spindle shaft, fit and tightei roltom spinote
Ill. 266
rLi- , TIIE INDIAN
_^-^ sectioned
rrrrs par.
SpRING IBAME ASSEMBLY_1940-52 ..V" TWnVS
illustration reveals the assembly and names parts
the of this unit, Dis_
*?lf iE-#:L iBlil:',J".T11 l,: :1,.,"*:*,,11.:i{r['i:i;"i$tr ";;:,;";r .";#'rli,"'Jl^" ro,r
b,olt-."A"-until. springs are compressed sufficienily to rower the spindre
shafl and spring assembry to crear the top frarie casting so that the
eomplete assembly can be lifted out of frame, iop end first.
644 INDIAN ,SERVICING
Removing Springs from Slipper Cylinder-

1. Remove spindle bolt "A" and the 2" tube spacer used for com-
pressing springs for removal from frame.
2. Remove lockring "C".
3, Place cylinder assembly in a press and exert pressure on top end of
slipper shaft, support bottom of cylinder on a spacer so that bottom end
of shaft can project through. This will compress lower spring "H" and
relieve the tension on top spring "G" and cylinder cap ring nut "D,"
which can now be unscrewed.
4. Remove cap nut r'D" when the shaft and springs can be removed.
Note-The top spring "G" (shortest) is the reeoil spring and the lower
spring the load spring. The slipper cylinder bushings should be free
on thi shaft. The taper end of the spindle shafts is the top, shouldered end
is the bottom.
Roassembling Springs to Slipper Cylinder-
1. Clean and grease shaft and springs.
2. Install the longest spring "H" with the large end to bottom of
slipper cylinder.
--3. Install slipper spindle shaft through from top with the shouldered
end to bottom of cylinder.
4. Install the short spring "G" with the large end to the top of
cylinder.
5. !'it cylinder cap "D" and place the unit in a press and compress
spring that cap "D" can be screwed into place lining up the slots
in 'rD" with the slots in the cylinder "E".
6. Replace the lockring, fit the top dust cover.
7. Compress the springs using the 2" tube spacer and bolt at bottom,
used ia removal and fit the complete unit into frame'
8. Eit the top tapered end of the spindle shaft into top casting; start $
!
spinclle bolt "A" a few threads to locate.
9. Remove the lower bolt "A" and the 2" tube spacer used to com-
press the springs; screw the lower eup "I" into place but do not tighten'
10. Tighten top sPindle bolt "A"'
11, Tighten lower cup "I" until fett to pull up, then slacken slightly'
lock by tightening pinch bolt "B". E'it and tighten lower spindle bolt "A'".
12-. Slide the top dust cover up into place in top frame casting and
lock with grub screw.
13. Note rear chain will require adjusting after fitting wheel.
Slipper Cylinder Axle Fork Breakage-Breakage is in some instances
due to ilaws in the casting and due to the margin of strength being barely
adequate. The loading on these forks, especially the right fork, is consider- t.
ably increased, when, due to rear chain adjustment, the axle and brake !
:
anchorage are towards the end of fork slots. Shorten or replace chain as
necessary so the rear axle is well to the front of the fork slots. Keep the
large rear brake drum sha.ft axle nut and the centre axle nut well tightened.
Rear Chain Adjustrnent-?4" and 4 Cylintler Spring tr'rame Motlels-
When slack exceeds 7r/2" in tightest spot midway between sprockets, adjust
to 1" free slack at tightest spot. To adjust, slacken the small right side
axle nut and the large nut, tighten the adjusting set screws equally to
provide required 1" slack; retighten first the large nut and then the small
centre axle nut securely. Tighten adjusting locknuts. Do not run the rear
chain too tight as it may cause a broken gearbox casting on the spring
frame models.
EOR.KS, FRAME AND WHEELS 645
Rear Chain Adjustment-3?" a,nd 45" Models-Slacken left side axle

aut and brake anchorage to frame nut; adjust both set screws equally to
give 8/a"-L" slack at tightest spot. Retighten nuts securely.
Front Brako Adjustment-To take up slack in control slacken the
outer cable adjuster locknut and unscrew the adjuster mounted on the
brake plate at bottom end of outer cable. Adjust so that brake application
eommences when lever is pulled in V+-L", On full application lever should
not come closer than a/2" from handlebar.
Rear Brake Adjustment-Slacken locknut at clevis at rear end of
rod, withdraw cotter pin and clevis pin, turn clevis as required; refit
pin and cotter pin, retighten clevis locknut. l'oot pedal should have approxi-
mately 1" of movement before brake application commences and pedal
should be over 1" from footboard when fully applied.
Twist Grip Control Wire Replacement-After long service, breakage
of spark or throttle control inner wire may be experienced. To replace,
unscrew the grip retaining sleeve nut at inside end of grip. Grip and sleeve
can now be removed. Disconnect bottom end by slackening set screw at
spark control or carburetor. Slide spiral block with control out from end
of handlebar. If control wire is broken, putl out lower end from bottom.
To remove wire from spiral block, place block over slighfly opened
vice jaws and drive out the spiral drive pin, When refitting new wire, bend
to right angle Vrc" from end to match old wire. When driving in pin, note
that it projects the same distance on each side of the sliding bloct. Lubri-
cate control wire before fitting through from top end. when tightening set
screw at bottom end note that throtue opens and closes fully andlhat
spark advanee and retard operates through full range of movemeirt.
speedometer Drive-tr'ailure of speedometer to function is usually due
to incorrect meshing' of the two prongs on the speedometer driving' ring
washer with the rear wheel hub notches when refitting wheel. occasionally
these driving prong:s shear off after a period of service. To examine thii
ring and replace if necessary, remove axle, drop out spacer and the
speedometer drive can be pulled away from hub. rf ipeedomiter drive ring
is in good condition trouble may be a stripped bevel fear and if rear end of
speedometer cable is disconnected and drive ring revolved it can be noted
if the drive shaft turns.
Gear Ratios
The standard gear ratios and sprockets used on 1g40 models shown
below apply equally to later models and can be used as a guide to correct
gearing on earlier models, Gearing higher than standard is inadvisable
and usually results in reduced maximum speecl and acceleration as well as
impairing slow speed top gear performanee.
I
. Gearbox Wheel High Gear 2nd Gear Low Gear I
Sprocket Sprocket Ratio Ratio Ratio I
74" Twin So1o...... 23T 43T 4.0b:1 b.7:7 10:1
'14" Twin SoIo...... 22T 43A 4,2:l 6:1 10.8:1
74" Twin S/car... 20T I
437 4.6:1 6.5:1 11.5:1
80" tr'our SoIo.... t7T 4BT 8.8:1 5.8:1 10:1
45" Twin So1o...... 18T 40T 4.8:1 6.8:1 11.9:1
30" Jr. Scout,...... 18T B9T 5.4:7 g:1 14.b:1
646 SIDECAR SERVICING
Section I
SII}ECAB, SffiVICE
Alignment-Toe-in-No provision was made in the manufacture of
Indian sidecars for making sidecar wheel toe-in adjustment. Lack of side-
car wheel toe-in, and in some cases "toe-out" existiqg, causes very diffieult
steering and a constant puU to the right, making operation very tiring.
This difficulty can be overcome as follows: Obtain a steel bolt approxi-
mately l2-la" longer than the original rear sidecar frame connection
bo1t. Have the head machined down if too long; drill a cotter pin hole at
end. Obtaia a selection of flat washers and place two or three between the
fra,me and the rear sideear conneetion and bolt up. Use number of washers
required to provide 7/2"-3/+" toe-in. This is best checked with two seven-foot
boards, bloeked up about four inches, in contact with motorcycle wheels
and sid.ecar wheel. Measurement between these two boards at front end
should be 1/2,,-3/+,, less than at rear end.
Tightening Bear Connection-secure tightening of the rear sidecar
connection to frame lug bolt is most important' E it a castellated nut and
cotter pin to ensure against loosening.
Motorcyclo Lean-Out Atljustment-The motoreycle should lean out
away from the sidecar approximately t/2t' to 1" measured at top of steer-
ing head. Adjustment is made by slackening the clamp bolts on the sidecar
chassis cross tube, and on the brace tube. Pull the machine to the left
to give the required lean-out and retighten very securely,
Tightening of Sidecar Connections-A thorough tightening of all side-
car to motorcycle frame connections and checking of, alignment should be
done at 2000-mile intervals.
Sidecar Brako Operation-Frequent greasing of the nipples on rear
sideear chassis tube, lubricating the brake cross shaft ii important to
prevent seizing of shaft and brake dragging. ,Sidecar brake should be
adjdsted so it comes on at the same time or very slightly after'the rear
brake.
Steering I)arnper for Sidecar Service-A g:ood steering damper will
greatly reduee driving strain and improve sidecar handling. A damper will
eliminate front wheel "shimmy" eommonly experienced on Indian sidecar
outfits.
1945 and Earlier 'lL" andl 4 Cylinder Dampers-Steering dampers were
not fitted as standard equipment but are available as an accessory for these
models and are one of the best investments a sidecar owner can make. On
this damper it is important to keep the anchor bolt for damper support
well tightened.
45" Model Da,rnpers-To be effective in preventing shimmy it is neces-
sary to eliminate any baeklash that has developed at the plate anchor pins
due to'wear in the plate holes and on anchor pin, in frame head and under
front fork bottom spindle, Building up with welding or brazing is a simple
method. A more satisfactory job is to replace the anchor pins with a bolt
and locknut, first tapping thread in casting so that bolt can be screwed
in and locknut tlghtened up on plates to eliminate all backlash.
Da,mper Adjustment-Damper requires to be well tightevleal to eliminate
shimmy in sidecar service. If sidecar is removed and machine to be operated
solo, be sure to slacken off the steering damper'
CTIAPTER TWENTY 647
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653
CHAPTER TWENTY.ONE
MOTORCYCLE MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE

Almosteverymotorcyclereconditioningjobinvolvessomemachine
shopwork. AcJurate ani efficient handling of this work is of great
importance.
A well equipped and efficiently operated machine shop is a great asset
to any motoi"cycte business rrandung a volume of overhaul and motor
reconditioning wort. To maintain a high standard of skill and efficiency
in machine sf,op work, speeialization is quite important. where the volume
of work available is slfficient to wairant it, having a machine shop
departmentandoneortwomenspecializingonthiswork,willdomuch
to ensure a high standard of work and efficiency'
Riders doing their own motorcycle repair work, and shops not handling
sufficient volume to warrant maintaining a machine shop, will usually
iir,O tirrt it is possible to have most of their "machining" requirements
taken care of a[ local wholesale auto supply firms and machine shops.
clearances-Provision of correct clearances is of vital importance in
machining work. Refer to the "clearances and Settings" sections of
chapters"5 to 19 for clearance specifications and to chapter 22 for general
fitting information.
MachineShopEquipment-Thetoolsandequipmentlistedbelow
enable the efficient tr-anaung of most machining necessary in recondi-
tioning. A piston grinder is not listed as there are very few motorcycle
-travin-g sufficient piston'finishing to warrant installation of this
shops
cornparativet-y expensive equipment. Most wholesale auto supply firms
-equipped-with
are a piston grinder and offer an excellent piston finishing
service.
1. Cylinder Boring Bar, flyeutter type.
2. Motorcycle Cylinder Boring Stand.
3. Cylinder Hone with fine, medium and coarse stones'
4, Lathe, South Bend "Workshop" model or size larger with usual
lathe equipment, 3 and 4 jaw chucks and drill chuck'
5. Lathe Tool Post Grinder.
6, Valve Refacer, adjustable angle type'
7. Set of Valve Seat Cutters and Pilot Stems %2" to th;' ot alternative
electric valve seat grinder.
8, Press, 10-ton caPacitY,
9. Bench grinder.
10. Gear and Sprocket Pullers.
11. Set of Magneto Bearing Race Pullers'
12, Adjustable Reamers, r1r" to 1".
13. Sunnen Bushing Grinder.
14. Micrometers, inside and outside, up to 4" capacity.
The main factor that has to be considered in deciding on shop equip-
ment must be whether the work available for it warrants the investment.
654 MOTORCYCLE MACHINE SI{OP PRACTICE
Ilt. 266
TIIE BBITISE "BUMA"
IIOTORCYCLE CYTTNDEA
BORN\IGI STAND
This stand accommodates any
typo o-C motorcycle cylinder. It
is shown with aE Indian Z4
cylinder in the mounting posi-
tion. The stand table is pivoted
as below for boring.
A cylinder mounting plate can Ilt, 26?
easily be made f rom 7a,, or
preferably 1" steel plate ma-
chined or ground with both BORING BAR IN OPERATION
sides
parauel. IIoIB should be large Before starting boring, be sure
enough to take largest cylinder c}'linder is securely mounted,
to be bored and two or three bai centred and clamped down
adapter rings made up to use tight and that tool is set cor-
for mounting smaller cylinders. lectl.,'.
To be a worthwhile investment, any machine must handle a volume of

work bearing' some relations to its cost. X'or example, if in the vicinity of
200 cyiinders are bored annually, a boring bar would prove a good in-
vestment. On the other hand if 25 or 30 cylinders represent a year's
cylinder boring, having these done out might prove more economical.
The same applies to lathe equipment; a lathe used two or three times e
week may prove a good investment in the time it saves in waiting to have
jobs done out at a machine shop, but if required much less frequenily, it
is not likely to prove a worthwhile investment.
The operation of a Cylinder Boring Machine and Lathe generally
require much more skill than the other shop equipment. Ilnless a man is
available to operate these machines efficienily and can turn out con-
sistently accurate work, their installation is inadvisable. To attain and
maintain efficiency in this type of work, specialization is an important
factor. tr'or example in a shop employing five or six mechanics it witt be
CYLTNDER REBORING 655
found much more efficient to have one man specialize on machine shop
work rather than have each man attempt to operate the boring bar and
Iathe and do the machining required on their jobs.
The policy of having a man specializing on machinirlg or having most
machining done out, is generally the best, It enables the mechanics to
specialize on straight dismantling, reassembling' and tuning aJtd the best
all around standards of efficiency will be realized.
Cylinder Reboring
Motorcycle cylinder boring is invariably required at much lower mile-
ages than with car engines. The chief factors accounting for the more
rapid cylinder wear are: The much wider rang'e of, operating temperature
and consequent increased expansion and distortion of eylinder block,
narrow tlpe piston rings, a.rid piston "slap" prevalent on some types until
motor is well waxmed up. Operation under dusty conditions without
carburetor aircleaner and failure to change oil as frequently as necessary
are aJso common causes of accelerated cylinder wear,
TYhen Do Cylinders Requiro Reboring?-When maximum wear, meas-
ured at the top of ring travel, exceeds .008"-.010". ft is possible to continue
operating after eylinder wear is greater but it is ,generally inadvisable,
as heavy oil consumption is almost certain on Dry-sump or Semi-dry
sump tJ4)es, and piston failure due to ring "blow-by" may occur if motor
is driven hard.
fn the event of piston replacement being necessary prior to a cylinder
rebore job, cylinder should be accurately measured to determine wear. If
in excess of ,004" honing or reboring is advisable, otherwise full benefit
from the new piston will not be realized.
Measuring the Cylintler-If a rebore is being considered, the first
step is to measure the cylinder at the lower unw'orn end, check the meas-
urement with the standard bore specifications to determine if it is already
oversize, and if so what oversize. Taking an Indian 74" cylinder as an
example, the standard bore is 3.250", if the cylinder measures 3,270" at
the lower end, it has apparently previously been finished out to .020"
oversize.
If the largest measurement at the top end of the ring travel reads
3.282 it indicates .012" wear. It is always necessary to bore a cylinder out
more than the maximum wear indicated on the microrneter as the eylihder
is seldom worn concentric to the original bore, and it is also desirable to
finish out to an even oversize. In this instance with .012" wear, boring
out .020" should clear out all the wear and the boring bar should be set
to cut 3.289"-3.289r/2", allowing .001/2t'-.001" for honing after boring. This
will ,give a finished cylinder size of 3.290, or .040" oversize oh the original
bore of 3.250".
An inside micrometer should be used for cylinder bore measurements
and the size determined by measuring the inside micrometer with an
outside micrometer, preferably the same one that is used for measuri4g
the pistons.
Measure Piston Before Boring Oylintler-ff cylinder is to be bored to
fit a finishedpiston, it is advisable to first measure the piston, taking
measurement at right angles to pin at top and bottom of skirt. Check with
656 MOTORCYCLE MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE
the elearance chart to determine required skirt clearance for the make,
model and type of piston as listed under the "Clearances and Settings"
sections of Chapters 5 to 19. Add the amount of bottom of skirt clearance
specified to the micrometer measurement of piston at bottom of skirt and
set boring bar cutter to this size, less t}:e.00a/2"-.001" honing allowance if
it is intended to hone. This is advisable because in some instances finished
pistons may have slightly excessive or insufficient clearance if cylinder is
just bored to the oversize stamped on piston.
Boring tho Cylinder-The modern flycutter type boring bar is an
ideal machine for motorcycle cylinder boring. In order to use this machine,
a special cylinder stand or mounting'plate is necessary. The British Buma
motorcycle cylinder stand, Illustrations No. 266 and 267 show an Indian
74 type cylinder mounted and boring: machine in operation.
The purpose of the motorcycle cylinder boring machine stand or
mounting plate is to provide a machined surface on which the cylinder can
be securely mounted, and with a surface on the opposite side machined
parallel to it, of sufficient area for the boring bar to be mounted.
Before mounting' the cylinder, it is quite important that all traces
of cylinder base gasket or jointing compound be cleaned off by careful
scrapiqg or filing so that the cylinder base mounting surface is dead level.
Cylinder should then be securely mounted.
Next the boring bar is mounted and by means of expanding centring
jaws, is located centrally in the bore before it is clamped down. In normal
instances the centring jaws are expanded to centre the bar in the unworn
part of the cylinder to ensure that the boring is done concentric to the
original. Ifowever, in instances where the cylinder has been alre-rdy bored
to about the oversize limit, it may be advisable to "centre,, the bar at
the most worn part of the cylinder. !
Before commencing boring a cylinder, it is always advisable to check
on the piston oversizes that are available to make sure that cylinder is
not bored larger than piston size plus clearance allowance.
Honing the Cylind-er After Boring-It is desirable to impart a smooth
surface finish to the cylinder. A rough finish will accelerate piston ring
and piston skirt wear and increase friction. An allowanc" o1 .ggr7r,,-.00l,,
should be made when setting the bori4g bar cutter, for final honing, this
allowance being dependent on the finish provided by the boring bar. On
some of the new types of boring bars .007/2,, honing allowance is quite
adequate. After honing, remove all traces of grinding abrasive from the
bore by oiling cylinder and w'iping thoroughly.
Honing after boring is not essential if bar gives a smooth finish, ff
not honing it will generally be found advisable to polish the cutter on a
diamond dust disc for each cylinder to ensure a smooth finish. some
cylinders are harder than others and it is difficult to get a really smooth
finish with just boring. Where a fairly heavy cut has to be taken on
cylinders where there is a thin section that projects below the base, it
will often be found when checking with microrneter that this section has
bored undersize due to the "spring,, away from the tool. On sueh jobs
honing after boring is advisable to give a straight bore or avoid cuts
larger than .030".
cylinder Honing compared with Boring-cyrinder boring is much
ouicker and more accurate for the removal of any amount in- excess of
.010". The hone is useful for polishing cylinders after boring or removing
l
I
CYLINDER SLEIEVE! INSTALLING 657
a verT slight amount from cylinders, but where a volume of eylinder work
is done it is a mistake to try and make the hone replace a boring bar' A
cylinder mounting plate or stand is not essential for cylinder honing and
the hone may be useful to the shop not having sufficient cylinder reboring
to warrant equipping with a bori4g bar. If cylinder is to be held in vice
for honing it is best to place horizontal and grip on a corner of base, as
there is danger of squeezing out of round if cylinder is placed between
vice jaws.
Honing Cylinders-The manufacturer's instructions should be closely
observed. Most fast cutting cylinder hones or cylinder ,grinderc as they are
sometimes known, are operatdd with the stones dry; lard is sometimes
recommended for finishing, allowing stones to "load" to reduce scratching
towards finish. Other types of hones are recommended to be used with
kerosene but usually it is recommended that stones be allowed to "load"
and reduce cutting for final finishing. Although a reasonably smooth
cylinder surface is desirable to avoid excessive friction and initial ring
wear, a highly glazed surface is not recommended because of reduced oil
film retention.
Cylinders With Con-Rod Slots and Ports-Care must be taken when
honing such cylinders that the stones do not get cut down rapidly at the
encls from passing con-rod slots, resulting in cylinder being finished larger
at middle than at ends. Such cylinders are best bored and only honed slightly
to finish. If it is necessary to hone, rub stone frequently on a sheet of
coarse emery cloth on a level surface to take down high section that will
develop in the middle of stone. Alternate honing from both ends of
cylinders where possible. Note the Villiers powerbike and 125 c,c. motor-
cycle cylinders are best finished on the Sunnen Bushing Grinder. This
does a much better job on these cylinders than can be obtained with the
cylinder type hone. See notes on the Sunnen Bushing Grinder at end of
this chapter.
Cylintler Sleeve Installing

Deeply scored cylinders or cylinders bored to the oversize limit can, if
otherwise in sound condition, be salvaged by installing sleeves.
Sleeve Wall Thickness-Sleeves with a 1Aa" wal! thickness are most
suitable. This involves, in most cases, boiing' the cylinder 1/8tt (,725) over
standard bore. It should be noted that some English types of sleeves are
1% mm. wall thickness and cylinders require boring 3 mm. over standard
bore (.118"). Sleeves of these types have proved highly satisfactory and
permlt subsequent reboring to .040" with an adequate safety margin.
Sleeves of thicker thayr lAa" wall thickness are not advisable for the aver-
age motorcycle cylinder as unless it is of unusually thick wall section, the
cyiinder block will be weakened excessively by the amount that has to be
removed before installing.
Types of Motorcyclo Cylinder Sleeves-There are two distinct types.
One type has the bore a rough finish with an allowance of approx, .015"
for final boring or honing to standard size after insertion and another type
with a pre-finish bore, .001"-.0011/ztt oversize, normally requiring no boring
or honing after installing. On the sleeves with an allowance for boring or
honing after installing, it is customary to fit with a .002"-.003" interference
fit, that is, the cylinder is finished out .002"-.003" smaller than the averag:e
diameter of the sleeve, and the cylinder is bored or honed after the sleeve
is installed to standard size. On the pre-finish type a .001"-.007L/2" interfer-
ence fit is usually used and this allowance is made on the pre-finish bore
so that sleeve bore is approximately standard size after sleeve is installed.
On this type it is most important that the interference fit be correct and
that the piston clearance be carefully checked and a slight amount of
honing undertaken after installilg if contraction has reduced piston clear-
ance more than calculated,
Measuro the Sleevo Beforo Boring Cylinder-The sleeve outside diame-
ter should be first measured. Take measurement in three or four different
places approximately equally spaced on the circumference and make note
of the average measurement, subtract .002r/2,,, which is the average amount
of interference fit, and set the boring cutter to this measurement, or .OO7/2t,
smaller if it is intended to hone cylinder after boring, before installing
sleeve. On cylinders below 23/4't diameter cylinder block bore should
measure ,002"-,002r/2" smaller than the average outside diameter of the
sleeve before installing and on large cylinders ,002a/2,,-,008,, smaller, except-
ing the pre-finish type sleeves on which the interference fit can be
.00L"-,001Y2". It is necessary to take an average of the sleeve outside
diameter measurement, because of the light section, there is a tendency
for sleeves to go slightly oval d.urir\g storage or transit.
sleeves fitted in aluminum cylinder blocks require more interference
fit, .005" is averag:e amount requir;d, Aluminum cyiinders should be heated
and sleeve chilled if possible, before installing.
Piston cleara,nce-cyrinders \ilith sleeves-rt is recommended that
.0012" addttional piston skirt clearance be allowed on cylinders fitted with
sleeves. The heat transfer from sleeve to cylinder is quite good if block
has been given a smooth finish and interference fit has beeri correct, but
it is generally considered advisable to favor slighily greater than standard
skirt clearance on sleeved cylinders.
Millimeter and rnch Equivalents-Most English cyrinder bore and
sleeve diameters are given in millimeters and for the inch equivalents
refer to the ehart in next chapter. rt should be noted that the size to which
cylinder blocks should be finished out, is stamped on most cylinder sleeve
boxes. tr-'inishing cylinder to this size wiII usually give the right amount
of interference fit for the sleeve.
rnserting the sleeve-The sleeve and cylinder can be first oiled or
smeared with "Pressoline." This will assist insertion but is not essential.
The "Buma" eylinder sleeve drawbar is illustrated showing sleeve being.
inserted into a Panther BbO e.c. cylinder. A press is a goioa alternative
for sleeve fitting. Pressure required will usually vary fr"om 2 to 6 tons,
depending on size, length and interference fit.
Piston Finishing
Proper finishing of motorcycle pistons and fitting w.ith correct elear-
ances are of the utmost importance. Reference strouta be made to the
clearance charts in chapters 5 to 1g, where piston and most other clear-
ances are listed on most popular machines.
Latho Piston Finishing-pistons can be finished round and with
straight or tapered skirts very satisfactorily in a good lathe with piston
skirt cones. The tailstock centre should be o,ffset 1o obtain the required
taper. Note that most types are tapered .002,,-,002r/z,,smaller at thi top
of skirt for alloy types. Tungsten-carbide or carballoy tipped tools should
be used as work can be speeded up considerabty ano -toor grinding is
seldom required. A special grinding wheel is required for griiding these
"tipped" tools.
USES.OX' THE LATHE 659
The only disadvantag'e to lathe piston finishing is that it is not

possible to "cam-grind." Cam-grind finish is used on most current types
of pistons, especially slotted skirt types designed to provide for considerable
skirt expansion sideways, parallel to the pin, and permitting close fitting
on the thrust faces. when finishing semi-finished slotted skirt pistons it
is advisable to finish cam-ground according to specifications.
On some solid skirt types of pistons not having expansion compen-
sating slots, cam-finishing is optional, but if clearances ire specified. for
round finishing, they can be fitted with .001,, less skirt clearance if
cam-ground. rf the elearances are specified for cam-finish and facilities
only enable round turning, .001-.002,, more skirt clearance than specified
should be allowed.
Finishing Two-Stroke Type Pistons-These are originally finished
round, and this is recommended. If finished cam-ground, itris tjrpe should
not be given more than .004" cam. Care should be exercised in-finhhing
two-stroke type pistons to avoid a very heavy cut and coarse feed ovei
the ring lands so that the ring stop peg's are not strained and loosened
or bent. Take a few light cuts to reduce the riqg lands rather than one
or two heavy cuts.
Itl. 268
PRESSING IN A CON.ROD PISTON PIN BUSIIING

The iUustration shows a convenient method for removing old con-rod pin bushings anal
inserting new ones. Note that a targer spacer bushing with a bore stigntiy laiiei--ihan the
outside dtameter of the rod brr-shing, enabtes the otd bushing to be to-rced out-ii irr" ne*
bushing is pressed in. If a suitable space! bushinB is not av;ilable, a spark piug-soclret or
box wrench wilr serve the purpose. A good. vice wiu handre uotti imiri:ind- uig-lra
con-rod bushing replaqements very easily. ^-od"
ryherg -a con-rod piston pin bushing is being mchined up espectally, its out$lde diameter
should be finished,004" larBer than the rod hole. This amount is comon to
most rod pin bushings.
Removal and lnstalling of con-rotl blg-end races can be effected ln a stmilar muDer,
660 MOTORCYCLEI MACHINE! SI{OP PRACTICE
Uses of the Lathe

The lathe is the most important of all machine tools and there are
many jobs in motorcycle reconditioning work that the lathe can handle.
-south
The Bend. Lathe co. have various booklets issued, that describe a
number of reconditioning iobs that can be handled. The book entitled
,,How to Run a Lathe,,, by this firm, w.ill prove valuable to lathe operetors.
some of the jobs that can be conveniently done in a moderate size
lathe include:-piston Finishing (round and taper), Bushing Boring,
power Reaming and Honing of Races and Bushirlgs, valve Refaeing'
Drilling, Grinding of crankshafts and Mainshafts, checking E'lywheel
Atignment and Armature Commutator Turning.
Amongst many other jobs, the lathe is also useful for making up of
-axles, thafmay not be
parts available, such as valves, valve guides, bushings,
fork spindles and other parts. Various useful shop tools such as
double diameter drifts for valve guide, piston pin, con-rod small and large
end bu'shing removal and refitting, are easily machined up'
The Lathe Tool Post Grinder-This can be used for valve refacing,
shaft grinding and surface grinding of corked clutch plates after new
corks have been inserted. New crankpins are not always available, but
when rollers can be obtained in sufficient oversize the shajt can be
reground and a very satisfactory job obtained, This also applies to roller
type mainshafts and also those using bronze bushings; if undersize bore
bushings are not available, these can be machined up.
Bushing Boring-Harley, Indian and some other types of con-rod
sma.ll-end bushings are supplied about .008-.010" undersize bore. If these
bushings are pressed into the con-rods as supplied, a considerable amount
of slow hand--reaming is involved, unless the rods are out, permitting
power reaming. when rods are in the motor it is advisable to first bore
ih" busfrings out in the lathe so that pins slip through, and after.insertion
only a slight amount of reaming or honing will be required to take care
of the contraction.
Bushing B,eaming-When the rods are out of the motor, reamer can
be mounted in the lathe chuck and a smooth job obtainedr quite quickly.
ftre general practice for con-rod bushing pin fitting is to allow ,0072"
pin cl-earance for a reamed bushing and .001" clearance if honed to final
iinish. lhese represent a very light finger push fit and a drop through
fit respectivelY.
valvo seat Reconditioning-valve seal cutters are quite suitable for
most motorcycles as hard inserts common to the newer cars are not as
yet generally used. The new electric valve seat grinders are, of course,
inucfi preter-able. These give the seats a mirror-tyre finish, and if valves
have been accurately refaced with a similar finish, the usual grinding
in procedure can be eliminated. This means a big saving in time. An
electric valve seat grinder is certainly one of the best investments any
motorcycle shoP can make.
Aligning Flywheels in tho Lathe--Mounting between centres is the
common procedure but this will only provide accuracy if the shaft centres
are undamaged and quite true with shafts.
A dial type indicator gauge mounted in the tool holder can be used
to check on true running of the shafts; or, as an alternative, the tool
slide micrometer feed calibrations caJr be used as follows: With crankpin
in vertical position, that is, directly above the shaft centres, move the
VALVE REF'ACING 661
,irli
t:
r[. 269
PISTON PIN FIT IN CON-ROD

SMALL-DND BUSH
Piston pia should be allowed at
l,east.OOYz" clearance if bush
is reamed. This is equivalent to
a very light finger push fit as
illustrated. When honed, .001,,
is required, pin should drop
throuah with barely perceptible
shake.
tool slide in by the micrometer feed with a blunt tool in the holder, until
tool contacts the shaft; note reading, back off, rotate flylvheels 180 degrees,
that is, turn one-half revolution so that crankpin is at the bottom and
advance tool to shaft and note the reading. Removal of flywheels from
lathe for tapping is advisable. The "high,, flyuvheel will be the one that
gives the lowest reading on the tool slide calibration. For example, if
one side of shaft reads 20 and the other side 50, mark an X on the
flprheel rim straight out from the shaft at right angles to the crankpin,
and on the side showing the 20 reading, give flywheel tap with soft
hammer at X on rim, and recheck. Repeat as necessary and tighten up
securely when alignment within .002,, has been obtained.
If the flywheel shaft centres are not true, one shaft can be tightened
up true in lathe chuck and the other fly'wheel adjusted to obtain true
running of its shaft.
There are other methods of obtaining good flywheel aligrrment
besides the lathe. The special Ariel factory type flyuvheel aligning jig,
@age 444), enables speedy and very accurate flywheel assembling.. Where
no special equipment is available, use of a straight edged rule across
the front faces of the flywheels at right angles to the pin enables fairly
aecurate alignment. Illustration No. 183, page 443, shows this method
of checking and shows flywheels badly out of alignment. When adjusted
so that rule contacts both flywheel rims evenly, shafts will be in fairly
good alignment.
VALVE R.EF'ACING
Most automotive type valve face grinders are suitable for handling
motorcycle valves. The valves should first be cleaned on a wire buffing
wheel if available to remove all carbon deposit, particularly any on the
stem towards the underside of the valve head. Hard carbon deposit on
stems is sometimes more effectively removed by spinning valve in lathe
or electric drill, polishing stem with fine emery cloth. A smooth finish
{ree from scratches is desirable. All valves are 4b degrees with the
662 MOTORCYCLE MACHINE} SHOP PRACTICE
exception of Indian-35 degrees-the early Harley inlet over exhaust

models on which the inlet valve angle was 30 degrees and the current
Vincent motors which are also 30 degrees'
Chucking Valve-Valves should be chucked as close to the head as
possible, but within the stem area that actually enters the valve guide.
Sioux IJ,pe Chuck-When refacing valves on Sioux machines it is most
important that first of all the stem end be trued. The valve stems should
be placed in V block and rotated with stem end against side of stone to
square end first, then fit the valve stem stop on the V block. Lift the V
block from slot and turn about 45 degrees to stone face. Move the chuck
slide so that about 1/tz" chamfet: will be cut. When cutting chamfer be sure
to hold stem down into V block and exert slight end pressure on valve so
that stem end maintains contact with stop on end of V block.
On the shorter types of motorcycle valves, it may be found that the
head contacts the left end of V block before stem end will contact the V
block stop. It is recommended that another stop be made up that projects
less distance from the V block to handle these. If this is not done, it is
important that the stem end be squared up and then with the V block
set parallel to stone true up the stem surface towards the end of valve on
face of stone. This will give a more accurate job than attempting to cut a
Irl, 270 (reft)
FR,EENiG I-AL\TE SPRING COLI,AR

FRO}I SPLIT CONES
On some types, particularly Indian, it is aalvisable
to free the valve spring collar from split cones by
placing a length of pipe and striking with a
hammer as shown bef ore attempting to compress
spring for split cone removal.
In. 2?1 (rlsht)

COMPRESSING VAL1IE SPRING
-A. drill press is most useful for compress-
ing valva springs in valve dismantling and
reassembling. A "U" shaped tool can 3/+"easily
be made up from a short length of or
7"x1/e't flat iron, driu'ed and fitted with a
,A^t, or 46" bolt for fitttng to chuck,
f'de toot'Ehown used for compressing valve
spdng is an Adel single timing gear pul1er
which is suitable for most valve eollals.
'Ihis method can be used on O.H.V. types
but a suitable block to fit inside cylind€r
head and enable hold.ing head with valYe
vertical is requhed.
THE SUNNEN BUSHING GRINDE}R 663
chamfer without a proper stop. After the valve stem ends have been
trued up in this manner and valves refaced, the ends can be very lighily
chamfered if desired.
x'itting valve to sioux chuck-rt is most important that the floating
aligner in the left end be adjusted so that it contacts end of stem and
locates valve in chuck with the three rollers gripping close to the end. of
guide wear evident on the stem. Be sure to hold the head of valve in
toward chuck. Tighten the floating aligner Allen screw and then ,while still
holding in at valve head, tighten chuck securely. F ailure to take these
precautions will result in inaccuracies.
TI{E SUNNEN BUSHING GRINDER

The Sunnen Bushing Grinder is highly recommended for speed and
accuracy on all types of bushing work. careful study of the manufacturer,s
instruction booklet on operation of this machine should be made. rt
provides exceptionally useful information that will contribute to speed and
aceuracy on all jobs. The sunnen Bushing Grinder has a great number of
motorcycie applications and although the manufacturer's lnstructions are
generaily applicable, attention is drawn particularly to the fotlowing
points on motorcycle work.
Piston Pin Bushings-Harley and Indian type pin bushings that are
supplied .008"-.010" undersize bore are best finished out to about .008,,
under pin size with the roughing cutter. Then enlarge with the roughing
stone (sL5) so pin can just be entered , and finish out to give ttre required
fit with the finishing stone (SLZ). It shoutd be noted that due to the
accuracy and smooth surface of bushings finished on this machine, slighily
more clearance is required than with bushings reamed, as very Iitfle
enlargement occurs during the running in, as compared to a ieamed
bushing. X'or most motorcycle pin bushings in steel rods, pins should be a
perfectly free fit, bushing hole size .001,, larger than pin. pin fit in
bushings in alloy rods can be appreciably closer. A right finge. push fit
is recommended.
The Deluxe Pin Fitting Ga,uge-This gauge attached to the Sunnen
Bushing Grinder should be used for all pin ritting and con-rod big-end
bearing work. rt quickly enables the amount ttrai lt is required to be
removed, to be determined. ft is useful on big-end as w.ell as on small_end
bushings and is also useful for checking for ovality of big-ends.
Con-Rod Big-Entl Race Ifoning-On ali Harley and Indian T\nrin type
big-ends and some English models, the light seetion steel races contract
considerably on insertion and require honing. special stones are recom-
mended for these steel races, No. sL8, which can be used for both roughing
and finishing and sL17 if an extra smooth finish is required. Lard ii
recommended for a lu ricant on the stones for steel bushings.
Big-Entl ll,ace Gauge setting-rn a shop where a considerabre amount
of con-rod big-end work is being done it will be found an advantage to
keep a few rods of the popular types with big-end races honed, to
standard size, for gauge setting. purposes. ey setfing the gauge with
standard size big-end the amount required to'be honed out ot i'h",ru*
races after installing can be quickly determined by fitting to gauge and
noting difference in read.ing.
Honing Races for flndersize Rollers-Rollers for Indian .,V,, T\rin
models are available .007/zt' and.001,, under standard .280,,. Use of these
rollers after new races have been installed will reduce amount of honing
required. If .001,, undersize rollers (.249") are being used, races will require
troiring out to 1.4ggr7r"-L.499", if unworn 1" diameter crankpin is being
used, to give required .007/2"'.00L" bearing clearance.
stone wear-It should be noted that an amount equal to the set up
applied on the micrometer feed dial wiu not always be removed, because of
s[on. w"r". This applies particularly to honing steel races and cast iron
cylinder blocks. If th; diafis not set up any more than the amount required
to be removed, in between checking for size, there will be little danger
of oversizing.
villiers 98 c.c. Powerbike and 125 c.c. Motorcycle cylinders-The
sL2000 mandrel w.ith sL5 roughing stone and SL? finishing stone, used
dry is recommended for honing the 50 mm. size and the SL1800 or SL1900
mandrel for the 47 mm. cylinders. The slandard type of Sunnen Junior
hone is not recommended, particularly on the 125 _c.c. motorcycle
"Vii"A",
type, due to the stones catching in the connecting rod slots. This does
rioi o."r" to any extent using the bushing grinder due to the design of
the bushing grinder mandrel and a very accurate job can be obtained
on- ttrese It is important to clean the stone frequently with
wire hrush. Finish cylinder within .007"'.0077/2" of size with the roughing
"iytiirOer".
stone and final finish with fine stone. Reverse cylinder on mandrel
frequently.
clean Holes Before checking for Fit-It is most important that
bushing holes or cylinders should be cleaned before checking for fit' If hole
*cleaned,
is not fit will appear tighter than is the case and hole may be
enlarged, excessively. The brush attached to the machine does not clean
thoroirghly and whLn checking for final fit, hole should be wiped with a
cloth.
GrinderSpeed-tr'ormostmotorcyclework,thehighspeedwillbe
found most suitable.
piston Pin Fitting in Pistons-F or ovelsize pins that are being fitted
in aluminum pistons in particular, frequent cleaning of the stone should be
made with wire brush and care should be taken to clean holes thoroughly
wir".t crr"cting for final fit. For most tJryes a hand press fit at room
temperature iJ correct. A tighter fit is not recommended as expansion of
^piston along the pin axis m9.V b9 restricted, resulting in excessive
the
expansion in thJ direction of the thrust surfaces and possibly contributing
to seizure.
r\. 27p
HONINO VILLIERS
CYLfNDER
The sunnen bushins srinder
does atr excellent job on th€
Villiers 98 c.c. Powerbike
and. 725 c.c. Motorcycle
cylinders.
It is essential to thoroughly
clean out cylinder ports after
honing. This is best done
first with air pressure fo1-
lowed by washing in varsol'
VERTICAL TWIN TYPE} CYLINDER BLOCK REBORING 665
Truing Stones-The stones and mandrels should be trrred frequenily

w'ith the truing sleeves, need for truing is indicated when cutting is ont!,
occurring on a small portion of stones.
Vertica,l Twin Type Gylintler Block Reboring

The Triumph, B.S.A. and Norton Vertical T\rin Type cylinder blocks
can be bored with the same equipment used for boring separate
cylinders. Recommendations for clamping to boring table aie detailed
below.
Trirrmph Twin Block-This type is best mounted on the cylinder
base surface. One size of mounting ,,ring,, will serve both the gbO and
500 c.c. Twin sizes. Suitable dimensions are Bs/e,, outside diameter, Z7/8,,
inside diameter, 712' 'length.
X'or the 650 c.c. Twin block, a similar spacer ring, but with B%2,, bore,
is suitable. These spacer rings must be machined with both end surfaces
parallel. The purpose is to provide a level base for mounting, spacing
cylinder so that cylinder extension below base clears the boring table
surface. A "flat" is required on the outside of the 6b0 TVin type mounting
ring due to the closeness of the cylinder bores.
B.S.A. and Norton Twin Blocks-It is simpler to clamp these types
with the cylinder head joint surface to boring table as the simple
cylindrical spacing ring as used on the Triumph cylinder base is not
adaptable to the base o{ these blocks. when a considerable number of
these blocks are being bored, it may be worthwhile to make up a special
spacer, adapting block base to regular boring table, or make a special
table top with opening to abcommodate. An advantage to this latter
arrangement is that both cylinders can be bored without changing
mounting, if suitable boring machine anchoring is provided.
When these blocks are bored from the top end, it is recommended
that no more than .030" shoutd be removed with one cut as due to
"spring" in the boring bar when extended, and at the thin end of cylinder
extension below base, bore may finish out .001" or more smaller directly
below base, necessitating additional honing towards bottom end to
provide a straight bore. cylinder bore should be straight without taper,
although a slight taper with top end up to .ool/zt' small is permissable.
The greater expansion at the top end of cylinder block will take care of
this. Bottom end of bore, however, should not be allowed under specified
size.
m. 273
EDPOLITD S.W. TYPD PISTON

One- of the latest developments in piston design
is the Hepolite "S.W." shown. This piston pr;-
vides exceptional compensation for expausion
enabling very close fitting without danger of
setzing. This type should be installed wita skirt
split in the direction of rctation which is to the
front in standard motor layouts,
666
CHAPTER TWENTY.TWO
CLEARANCES AND MEASUREMENT

EQatYALENTS
Section 1
CLEABANCE SPECIFICATIONS
The importance of providing correct clearances when reconditioning
motorcycle engines cannot be over-emphasized. The wide range of the
operating temperatures common to air-cooled motorcycle eng'ines make
the matter of clearance of much greater consequence than with water-
cooled car engines and other units that function through a much narrower
and lo\ryer range of operating temperature.
Clearance Specifications-These are listed under the "Clearances and
Settings" sections of, Chapters 5 to 19 covering the more popular makes
and models. Reference should be made to the summary of contents for
location of the required clearances and settings chart.
Piston Fitting
Piston Tyles-X'our types of pistons are in general motorcycle use as
detailed below:
Solid Skirt
Thermal Slot
Hepolite "S.W." (See Ill. 273).
On some motors more than one of the above types of pistons are in
use, and in dealing with the matter of piston clearances, it is essential to
correcUy identify the piston type, Details are given below.
Solid Skirt Pistons-This type is usually fiaished with skirt tapered
.002"-.003" smaller at top end. Both round and cam ground finishes are
used. On 4-stroke types, cam grinding is recommended, usi4g .006"-.010"
cam, A g'reater amount of cam does not usually provide any advantage
on a solid skirt piston. If filished round, .001" additional skirt clearance
over the cam ground specifications should be allowed.
The piston clearances listed under the "Clearances and Settings"
sections throughout this book are generally for low expansion alloy pistons
and where "Y" alloy or other alloys with higher rate of expansion are
used; skirt clearance increases in the raqge of '001"-.O02", and .005" on
Iands, should be provided.
'T' Slot Pistons-These are identified by the "T" shaped slot in skirt.
This type is usually finished with .010"-.013" cam and skirt tapered
approximately .0011/ztt smaller at the top end. The usual basis of clear-
ance calculation is .001" per inch of cylinder diameter at bottom of skirt,
a11d .0077/2" per inch of diameter at top of skirt. This type of piston
should be installed with "T" slot facing to the front on the standard
motorcycle applieation. The slot should face in the direction of rotation.
The reason for fitting this way is that on the power stroke the angle of
the connecting rod imparts the pressure on the rear of the piston. The
solid side of the skirt is best able to resist this pressure without undue
flexing.
'Where pistons are supplied semi-finished, the "T" is not
CLEARANCE SPECIF'ICATIONS 66?
always fully extended and in such cases, after finishing has been com-
pleted, the slot should be extended from the hole towards the bottom of
skirt, up to the horizontal slot at top of skirt.
Thermal Slot Pistons (Horizontal Slot)-This type has been used in
Harley-Davidson machines for many years, as well as some replacement
types. It is identified by the horizontal slots located in lower ring groove
directly above the thrust area of the skirt. This design providea excellent
compensation for expansion while retaining adequate skirt strength. The
slots for disconnecting the skirt thrust area from the crown reduce heat
transfer from the crown to skirt, and also prevent the expansion of the
piston crown being transmitted to the skirt except parallel to the piston
pin axis.
It should be noted that the genuine Harley-Davidson pistons of this
type are finished with the unusual amount of .031" cam and are fitted
with the unusually close clearance of .001"-.002" at bottorn of skirt. Taper
is more than average, top of skirt clearances being .004"-.005". Replace-
ment tJrpe pistons of this pattern are usually finished with .010"-.013" cam
and the basis of clearance caJculation is .001" per inch of diameter at
bottom of skirt, and, .00Lr/2" per ineh of diameter at top of tskirt.
Hepolito "S,Vy." Typo Pistons-This is one of the latest developments
in piston design, and is now being used as standard equipment on a
number of machines, notably the B.S,A. Twins. This type is identified by
the horizontal slots below the Iower ring, which also extend downrards
in the vicinity of the piston pin, and the skirt split extending part way up
from the bottom of the skirt (see I1l. 273).
This design provides exceptional compensation for expansion and
permits unusually close fitting. No skirt taper is reguired, and the clear-
anees are calculated on .001/2" per inch of diameter. On the B.S.A. Twins,
with thi6 piston, .0071/2"-.002" skirt clearance is used wittl a .012" cam.
(Catrrl" and
"Form" Ground Pistons-The well-known cam ground
finish, in which the piston diameter parallel to pin is reduced an equal
amount throughout the length of the skirt, has been replaced on English
pistons with a "form" ground finish in which the amount of ovality is
graduated, to provide increased ovality towards the top end of skirt. This
provides for a more cylindrical skirt shape at operating temperatures, and
a greater skirt bearing area.
Fitting "Finished' Pistons-When fitting factory finished oversize
pistons, the correct skirt clearance in cylinder is g'enerally provided if the
cylinder is finished out the amount of oversize specified on the standard
cylinder bore dimension. Possible variations in measurement standards
make it wise to check the piston skirt measurement before enlarging
cylinder, to confirm that finishing out to specified oversize wiU g-ive the
correct clearance. When measuring piston it is desirable to have pin
removed because if pin is a fairly tight fit in piston, skirt may be slightly
distorted and a true measurement cannot be obtained until pin is removed.
Pistons should always be heated for removal, and refitting of pins, and
note that piston should be at room temperature of approximately 60"-70"
tr'. for measurement purposes.
Piston rings should always be removed and placed in cylinder, squared
up with piston, to check for gap before assembling. The manufacturers
generally supply complete pistons with rings already fitted, to simplify
packaging, but it is generally necessary to file ring joints slighily to
provide the specified joint gap clearances.
Piston Rlng Lands-When semi-finished pistons are being finished
or finished oversize.pistons are reduced to a smaller size, provision of
668 CLEARANCES AND MEIASUREMENT EQUIVALENTS
sufficient ring land clearance must not: be overlooked. Ring land clearance
requirements rang:e from .O04" to .007" per inch of diameter' Some manu-
faclurers provide a g:raduated clearance such as .007" top land, .006" 2nd
land, and .004" 3rd lan{, per inch of piston diameter, while others provide
the same clqarance for top.and 2nd lands or for aII three lands. A saje
policy is to allow .006" ring land clearance per inch of diameter on all
three lands.
Plston Ring Groove Depth-There is some variation between English
and American standards of piston ring, radial thickness and it is irlways
advisable before installing a new piston, or fitting. rings to an old piston,
to eheck and make pertain that the: rings to be used fit down fully into
the pisto,n g.rooves, so that the ring is either level or preferably slightly
below the surface of the ringlands' It must not project above the ring-
lands. Where factory-finished oversize pistons are finished down to a
smaller oversize, or to standard size, .difficulty may be encountered w"ith
the ring g'rooves being of insufficient depth, and they will require
deepening.
checking Piston Fit in cylintler-where inside and outside micrometers
are available, micrometer measurement is recommended. As an alternative;
thickness gauges can be used. If a bottom of skirt piston clearance of
.003" is splcified, a .003" thickness gauge should pu1 throqgh between
piston and cylinder at right angles to piston pin, with a pull of 4-8 lbs'
it stroutd be noted that on slotted skirt tlpe pistons, due to skirt flexibitity,
a g'auge of greater thickness than the actual clearance plesent can be
pu[ealhrough. On these types especially, cylinder should be finished out
io that feeler of required thickness can be drawn through with no more
than specified pull; otherwise a tighter fit than intended may result'
valvo stem clearanco in valve Guides-standard clearances are
.002"-.004" for the inlet stem and .003"-.005" for the exhaust stem, depend-
ing on stem diameter. It is most important to check these clearances
wien installing. new valves and guides. Generally, if the inlet valve stem
is quite free in guide, this can be considered satisfactory as the inlet stem
operating temperature is relatively low. The exhau'st valve stem clearance,
however, musf be adequate, otherwise stieking may occur when the exhaust
valve reaches an elevated temperature. This is especially a factor on
motors that are provided with a fairly good supply of oil to the valve
machanism. In some cases a carbon deposit forms on the exhaust valve
stem as a result of oil burning on, which reduces clearance after a short
period of operation. rn such cases exhaust valve stem sticking, followed
by valve head burning, often occurs.
Ol 9la" diameter exhaust valve stems, .004" is a safe clearance. It
will quite often be found that new parts provide no more than .002r/2"
clearance, and this is of,ten not sufficient. fn such cases, valve stems
should be polished in a lathe or high speed electric drill with fine emery
cloth to reduce stem diameter. Best results are obtained by polishing the
valve stem tapered, to provide reduced diameter towards the valve head
where temperature and expansion are greatest. As an illustration, on the
B.S.A. 650 c.c. Twin which has given considerable valve sticking trouble,
best results have been obtained by polishing the exhaust valve stems
tapered, providing .003" stem clearance at top end, increasing to .005"
clearance measured just below the head radius.
This matter of valve stem clearance is something that is often over-
looked. Ensurir\g that there is sufficient exhaust stem clearance especially,
will greaily reduce possibility of premature valve trouble. Recommended
valvs stem clearances will be found listed in "Clearances and Settings"
CLEARANCES SPECIX'ICATIONS 669
sections. Where exhaust valves are found to have less stem clearanee in
guide than listed, stems should be polished as described above to reduce
diameter. Stems should be first checked with a micrometer. Tapering to
provide .001" in excess of standard clearance at head end of stem, is
recommended in any motor where valve sticking trouble has been
experienced.
'trl. 275
INSTAITINO PISTON
PII{
A light tap or haRd
push fit is the correct
pin fit in most motor-
cyle pistons. Warming
pistons if pins are
slightly tight, facilitates
pin fitting. As an al-
ternative a soft faced
hammer can be used to
tap pin in as shown,
If a steel hammer is
used a drift will avoid
damage to pln end.
Il. 276
PISTON
SUPPORT BLOCI(
The block illustrated
can be very easily
made up from a
short length of 2 by
1 and 1 by 4 wood.
This block is ex-
tremelJ- useful for
supporting pistons
when tapping pins in
or out, for support-
ing crankcases when
assembling and other
jobs.
670 MEASUREMENT EQUIVALENTS
Section 2
MILLIMETEB-INCH-EQUIVALENTS
M/M Inches M/M Inches M/M Inches
1
Z .010 JJ 1.2992r 67 2.63779
1
2 .020 34 l.3385B 68 2.67716
i4 .030 35 1.37795 69 2.71653
I
,,
.03937 36 1.41732 70 2.7559
.07874 )t 1.45669 7l 2.79527
3 .l lBl I 38 1.49606 11 2.83464
4 .r5748 39 1.53543 73 2.87401
5 .19685 40 1.57480 74 2.91338
6 .23622 4r 1.61417 75 2.95275
7 .27559 42 1.65354 v6 2.99212
8 .31496 43 1.69291 77 3.03149
9 .35433 44 1.73228 7B 3.07086
t0 .3937 45 r.77165 79 3.11023
It .43307 46 1.81102 80 3.1496
t2 .47244 47 1.85039 81 3.lBB97
13 .51181 48 1.88976 82 3.22834
14 .551 l8 49 1.92913 83 3.2677
t5 .59055 50 1.9685 B4 3.30708
16 .62992 51 2.00787 B5 3.34645
17 .66929 52 2.04724 86 3.38582
t8 .70866 53 2.08661 87 3.42519
19 .74803 54 2.12598 BB 3.46456
20 .7874 55 2.16535 89 3.50395
2t .82677 56 2.20472 90 3.5433
22 .86614 57 2.U409 9l 3.58267
23 .90551 58 2.28346 92 3.62204
24 .94488 59 2.32283 93 3.66141
25 .98425 60 2.3622 94 3.70078
26 1.02362 6l 7.40157 95 3.74015
27 1.06299 62 2.44094 96 3.77952
28 1.10236 63 2.4803r 97 3.81889
29 t.t4t73 64 2.51968 98 3.85826
30 1.181 1 65 2.55905 99 3.89763
3l 1.22047 66 2.59842 100 3.937
32 1.25984
DECIMAL M/M_DECIMAL INCH EQUIVALENTS
M/M Inches M/M Inches M/M Inches
.01 .0004 .08 .0031 .6 4236

.02 .0008 .09 .0035 .7 0276
.03 .0012 .10 .0039 .8 0315
.04 .0016 .2 .0079 .9 0354
.05 .002 .J .0118 1.0 a3%7
.06 .424 .4 .0157
.o7 .028 .5 .0r97
DECIMAI, INCE MEASUREMENTS

.100" :One hundred thousandths inch.
.010" :Ten thousandths inch.
.001" :One thousandths inih.
.0001":One ten thousandths inch.
One half of one thousandths inch is, for simplicity, shown in this book as .00 {".
This measurement may also be shown as .0005'i (five one-tenth thousandths inch).
67L
CHAPTER TWEI\ITY.THREE
SPEED TUNING
Section 1
SPEED TUNING CONSIDERATIONS

Although the first and second editions of "Modern Motoreycle
Mechanics" featured an extensive chapter on Speed Tuning, it has
been necessary to delete detailed Speed Tuning information from this
fourth edition, due chiefly to space considerations that prompted this
decision on the third edition. The number of standard machines on which
it was necessary to provide servicing information, has increased, and it
was felt that the additional coverag:e that could be given to standard
servicing would serve a much greater scope. Some brief tuning details,
however, are being: provided under Section 2 of this chapter to give an
understanding of the main factors involved.
The great majority of average motorcyclists will realize the best
service from their machines by applying their tuning efforts on regular
maintenance. A fully run-in standard machine with correct clearances,
carburation and ignition, will give superior performance throughout the
normal speed rang:e of ordinary road use than a model on which consider-
able speed tuning has been undertaken.
ft should be appreciated that most standard machines as supplied
by the manufacturers, are designed to give the best all-around performance
for average service, maximum r.p.m. and power output being to a slight
extent sacrificed in favour of better thermal and brake efficiency within
the speed range most common to average service.
Most standard machines represent a good compromise between
maximum performance, good thermal efficiency, silence and reliability.
On special racing models, power output and smooth running at low
r.p.m. are invariably sacrificed to a considerable extent in order to achieve
maximum power output at high r.p.m.
Special modeis do not normally provide noticeably superior
performance throughout the average speed range in comparison to
standard models of similar design. The improvement in torque and B.H.P.
on "specials" is in most cases only a factor at over 4500 r.p.m. The
benefit from racing cams for instance, only becomes apparent at above
this r.p.m., and in conjunction with a suitable open exhaust system.
O.H.V. motors in the 500-650 c.c. class are most widely favoured by
tuning enthusiasts. The Vertical Twin motors in this range, especially,
provide excellent tuning possibilities and very satisfying performance.
Speed Tuning is generally considered in connection with participation
in motorcycle sporting events. There are numerous types of sporting
events in which the orr,*ner of a standard machine may wish to enter.
Standard sports models in good tune, with correct g:earing:, will generally
give good results. Many riders find that the tuning and preparation of
their road machine for occasional entry in sporting events is an interesting
addition to their motorcycling pleasures.
672 SPEED TUNING
There are some sporting events in which there is no appreciable

}:.a;zard; notably hill climbs, acceleration contests, and some straight
speed events, Competition events that involve an appreciable incidence of
accidents and rider injuries are detrimental to a greater development of
everyday motorcycling
The development of motorcycles through racing is a point often
raised in support of racing activities. Although racing has contributed
some good to motorcycle development, it is also responsible for developing
trends in design that have been a detriment to motorcycling fpr
pleasure and everyday use. The development benefits from racing do not
warrant tlre hazard to riders involved in many events, and there is no
field of motorcycle development in which adequate progress cannot be
made by factory testing, ordinary road testing, and application of
knowledge gained from close observation of motorcycles in average service.
On the matter of tuning; before any extensive amount of tuning on
a motor is to be undertaken, it is a wise precaution to consult the
manufacturers regarding the proposed modifications. Valuable data is
often readily available from factory experimental department records
which may save much time and trouble.
Probably the best effort to date, devised, to assist the private owner
in converting a standard road machine to racing specifications, is the
Triumph "Racing Kit." The Triumph Racing Kit provides such items as
racing camshafts, special valve springs, dual carburetor equipment,
revolution indicator, megaphone exhaust system, high compression pistons,
and with this is provided a booklet detailing procedure for installing
these parts and tuning for maximum performance.
This Triumph "Racing Kit" feature is unique in the comprehensive
nature of what is provided, and the results that have been obtained.
Private owners of standard machines with this kit equipment fitted,
have found it possible to compete quite successfully with special
factory-made racing machines.
Although as complete and comprehensive equipment as this Triumph
kit has not been offered by other manufacturers, various other makes
do offer special equipment in the line of high compression pistons, racing
camshafts, valve springs and special carburetor equipment that can
be fitted to improve the maximum performance of some of their
standard models.
Eor the general guidance of those planning speed tuning work on
their motors, a few brief notes follow on the main topics involved.
Section 2
TUNING DETAILS
Motor Types-Although speed tuning possibilities are not restricted
to any single type of motor, there are types that are more responsive
to this effort, and on which more gratifying results are likely to be
obtained from the effort expend,ed. Motors in the 500-650 c.c. O.H.V.
TUNING DETAILS 673
Vertical Twin class presently are considered to be the best tuning

propositions. Motors with aluminum cylinder block and cylinder head
equipment are slightly preferable, particularly for long distance speed
work, enabling slightly higher corripression ratios to be utilized, and
providing cooler running as well as some reduction in weight. Highly
satisfactory results, however, are obtained with cast iron cylinders and
heads, and in in'stances where very high compression ratios and alcohol
fuel are used, these components are considered an advantage.
Compression Ratios-The most suitable compression ratio is
dependent on the fuel to be used, also the cylinder filling and cooling
characteristics of the motor. The ratio should only be as high as can be
used without causing detonation. With 80 octane gasoline, 8:1 ratio is .
generally the highest ratio that can be used satisfactorily in O.H.V.
motors. Stightly higher ratios can sometimes be used with aluminum
eylinder heads. This is also dependent on the cylinder size. Other
factors being equal, the smaller the piston displacement the higher the
compression ratio that can be satisfactorily operated with a given fuel.
Clearances-Adequate clearances are essential to maximum and
maintained speed capabilities. Reference should be made to the "Clearances
and Settings" section of the chapter covering: the make concerned, and
also the preceding chapter. The chief requirement is an increase in piston
clearance. tr'or racing events of appreciable distance, a 50 percent
inerease in piston skirt clearance, piston pin elearance in rod bushing and
exhaust valve stem clearance in guide, over standard specifications,
should be provided.
Valves-On some motors, oversize inlet valves can be used to
advantage. Generally %2"-7,b" over standard head size is the limit. To
obtain benefit from oversize inlet valves, the inlet port especially at
the throat must be opened out a corresponding amount. As an illustration,
Triumph 500 Twin models with cast iron cylinder heads, have a 7EAa"
diameter head inlet valve. The 77/rc" head valve used on the alloy motors
can be fitted; if this is done, poxt throat will require opening out to 717,62".
Where oversize valves are fitted, it is important to check that heads elear
the piston crown cutaways, and if not, scrape out cutaways slightly
larger.
Ports-Polishing the inlet port and removing any notable surface
irregularities is generally beneficial. Whether actual enlargement of the
inlet port should be made will be dependent upon the modifications being
undertaken. On the Triumph 500 Twin, where oversize inlet valves are
being fitted, and special cams are to be used, opening out the inlet ports
all the way through to 1" minimum diameter is beneficial.
Elimination of any "step" at inlet port and manifold joints is an
important item, applying especially to Vertical Twin motors with
rernovable inlet manifold.
. Cams-ff machine is to be used for everyday service invotving
Special
considerable mileage, it may be wise to retain the standard cams.
Operation with an open exhaust is generally required to obtain appreciable
benefit from special cams, and before deciding on special cam equipment,
it is advisable to seek the manufacturer's advice on both cams and
exhaust system. If cams are not being replaced, it is wise to examine
carefully the original cams to make sure they are not worn exeessively.
Worn cams will upset valve timing, reduce lift and impair efficiency.
674 SPEED TUNING
Com Followers-Cam followers should be carefully examined and if

perceptibly worn, replaced. This applies especia.lly to Triumph motors.
Valve Springs-There is g:enerally no advantage to fitting stronger
valve springs with standard cams. Wtrere racing cams are fitted, special
springs are sometimes required. Where special carns are fitted that are
not of the manufacturer's design, it is important to check that valve
spring coils do not close up fully when valves are on fiuil lift, otherwise
severe overloading of the valve gear and some breakag:e may result.
Carburetor Bore Sizes-Generally the standard carburetor bore size
will be found large enough except where special cams are installed. The
maximum caxburetor bore sizes recommended for some of the popular
size motors, are detailed below:
500 c.c. O.H.V. T\rin (Single Carb.)............ ..L" or l\ia"
500 c.c. O.H.V. Twin (Dual Carb.)............ ...................1"
650 c.c. O.H.V. Twin (Single Carb.)....... ................4Yra" ot t%"
650 c.c. Tkin (Dual Carb.).......... ....L7A.""
500 c.c. O.H.V. Single CyIinder.................... ........ .....7%.a"
Main jet size requirements vary considerably. The most suitable
main jet sizes are best determined by a number of trial runs. Where
alcohol fuel is to be used, a larg:e increase in jet size is required as weII
as a larger needle jet (See page 446).
Spark Plugs-Refer to page 1.32 for recommended tlpes for varying
service including racing.
Tachometer Equipment-This is a very worthwhile accessory enabling
gear changes to be made at the r.p.m. that will provide maximum
acceleration, and also as an aid to avoiding motor damage from over-
reving. The inertia stress on the connecting rods, for instance, reaches a
tremendous load at high engine speed. Where a motor develops maximum
B.H.P. at 6500 r.p.m., avoiding reving'above this figure will minimize the
possibility of a valve striking piston top, or connecting rod failure, which
are common causes of motor trouble resulting from excessive r.p.m.
Gearing-Gearing requirements vary considerably according to type
of event for which machine is being prepared. The common fault is to
g'ear too high, and it is a safe rule to gear sufficiently low that the
r.p.m. at which maximum B.H.P. is developed can be reached in high gear.
Fly'wheel Bralance-ft is seldom that any alteration to original
balance is required. The manufacturer's advice should be sought before
altering.
Internal Polishing-The polishing of internai motor parts to reduce
air friction, is not worth the effort. There is some merit to polishing such
parts as con-rods and valve rockers in that providing a smoother surface
on these parts, reduces the possibility of fatigue cracks developing.
A smooth bearing surface, of course, is desirable to reduce mechanical
friction, and polishing of valve stems, cam followers, and cam bearing
surfaces, also the provision of a smooth cylinder bore, are beneficial.
General Mocha,nical Condition-Sound mechanical condition of the
entire machine, extreme care in assembling, adequate tightening all nuts,
bolts and screws, and close attention to final adjustments, are essential
factors in achieving maximum performance with reliability. The Check
Card illustrated on page 115 is useful to follow and will reduce possibility
of oversight.

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Modern

tr'irst Edition - - - - 7942

. The earlier e_d.itions o;f Modern Motorcycle Mechanics exper-

2;-MODEBN i!IOTOBCYCLE DESIGN

8.-MATCHLESS AND A.J.S. SERVICING

11.-ROYAL ENFIELD SERVICING

1G.-IiECONDITIONING AND SER,VICING BR,ITISH M'ODELS

(g) Automatic Advance Units ............ ....... 465

17.-VILLIERS TWO-STROKE ENGINDS

(2) Clearances and Settings ,......,........5b9

2o.-TROUBLE TBACING CHARTS

22.-CLEARANCES AND MEASUR,EMENT EQUIVALENTS

now been a half-century of motorcycling' During this

Transportation of a "ride to work" nature forms the largest use of

Motorcycle raci4g and various competitions attract much interest in

Warm and relatively dry clima.tes are most favorai:le to motorcycling.

Road conditions in some countries have been unfavorable to motorcycle

MODERN MOTORCYCLE DESIGN 77

MODERI\ MOTORCYCLE DESIGIY

THE MCITOECYCLE INDUSTRY

Today, despite supply and manufacturing difficulties imposed by world

FEATURES OF. MryIOR,CYCLE DESIGN

Motor T;pe Characteristics

Although in the early stages of motoreycle development, certain short-

overhead camsha,ft,Motors-These a.re, of course, overhead varve, and

TIIE TB,IUMPE "TIGDR lOO'' MOTOR

The side valve motor is slighily simpier to maintain, and sometimes

Although noL g'enerally standard equipment, an efficient air cleaner is

(b) Cyliniler Layouts

Cylinders in line-Longitudinal and Transverse.

The side valve motor is stightly simpler to maintain, and sometimes

The standard of durability of the two stroke eng:ine is generally

Although not g'enerally standard equipment, an efficient air cleaner is

featured by some makes. The least popular arrangements is the horizontal

include A.J.S. Brough-Superior, B.S.A., Enfield, J.A.p., James, -Matchless,

the performance characteristics of the Matchless "Silver Arrow" indicate

IIII pnrssuRe oil

THE SUNBDAM TWIN LUBBICATION SYSTEIT

(c) General Characteristics of Motorcycle Motorc

"V" Twin Firing Intervals-Uneven firing intervals are characteristie

has an.appreciably lower coefficient of expansion than other alloys, and

. A recent deveropment that has proved a great advancement is the

, valve_ guides are generally iron a[oy, in some cases hardened.

n.: M> d ^ <Y

Vacuum advance control has not been employed on moJorcycle ignition

In the past, most motorcycle gearbox conslruction has been in the

tr'or,a period of many years, prior to 1940, a distinctive feature of the

type of motor mounting with crankshaft across the frame, an additional

Pressed steel frame construction has been tested out by a number of

destgn offers advantages of extreme lateral rigidity, neatness and

On this particular type, rebound is cheeked by attaching the spring

Vyheels @nd Rims-Design of wheels has undergone little change

_ Although voltage regulator equipment is not standard on the Harley-

Spring mounted dual seats for British machines are considered an

Air cleaners-An efficient air creaner is an important factor pro-

SAFDTY GUARD II'ITE

Gasoline B'ilters-sediment bowl type gas (petrol) filters are not in

sa'fety G,ards-These are one of the most popular motorcycre

R'ear view Mirror-This usefur and almost essential accessory un-

wintlshiekls-There is a very wide variety of motorcycre windshierds

Leg Shields-These provide very desirable weather protection

., Various patterns of attractively curved leg shields are available,

Saddle Bags-A wide variety of saddle bags for motorcyeles are

Amongst the distinctive characteristics of British models generally,