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We lco m e
Annelies Baes, Camilla Baro,
Jacinta Bowie, Zoe Curtis, There’s a slight chill in the air on my early morning dog walks
Jane Czaja, Fay Dashper-Hughes,
Rhian Drinkwater, Amour Fou, and it m akes me sm ile. I yearn for natural shades and new
Vicky Guerrero, Sandra Gutierrez,
Sarah-Jane Hicks, Carmen Jorissen, patterns to try… Autumn is most definitely on the way and this
Claire Montgomerie, Anna Nikipirowicz,
Rosina Northcott, Helda Panagary, is always the season when I feel at my most creative.
Joanne Scrace, Cassie Ward
Models
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Ad Production back to school and then all of a sudden I’m in woolly heaven. Nothing is quite the
Leila Schmitz
Main cover image same this year, sadly. However, I’m still determ ined to capture the joy that I get from
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Leanne Jade
Small cover images
Leanne Jade, Sophie Peirsman
mulling over shades is a ritual to be savoured, and I know I’m not alone in this.
Publis h in g
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Tim Harris
Managing Editor Bowie’s gorgeous jacket to Claire Montgomerie’s cardigan and Sandra Gutierrez’s
Sarah Moran
sarah@selectps.com cabled jumper, it will be easy to create a beautiful and sustainable capsule wardrobe.
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 8

ISSUE 128
❈
MEET CARLA
MITRANI OF
AMOUR FOU
PAGE 98
66

❈
OUR FABULOUS
NEW COLUMN WITH
HELDA PANAGARY
PAGE 10

ALL ABOUT
DRAPE
What is it, when
you need it and
how to get it!
PAGE 30
NEWS & REVIEWS FEATURES
06 IN THE LOOP 14 CROCHET MASTERCLASS
J oin in Scheepjes’ exciting Blanket d’Histoire Join in Carmen Jorissen’s new Scheepjes
Naturelle CAL, enjoy Stylecraft’s releases and Masterclass! This month discover how to mix
hook a lovely cushion by Wulla. Plus, meet yarn weights, then hook Carmen’s beautiful
fab Queen CAL designer, @tinnahekl. Chevron Boulevard Shawl.

09 YARN REVIEWS 30 MAKE WAY FOR CROCHET

We put five beautiful new-season yarns to
the test, ready for you to hook cosy
accessories, garments and blankets.
10 FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Inside Crochet designer, grandmother and
chef Helda Panagary shares her favourite
recipes in our soul-boosting new column!
13 BOOK REVIEWS
Upcycle your old clothes, hook and dress
Betty and her cat, fill your home with crochet
love, and make 12 cute endangered animals.
Joanne Scrace explores the wonders of drape
and the way fabric hangs. Learn about how
different stitches, hooks and yarns create
different effects. Plus, make her stunning
89
Love Triangles Sweater – so elegant and
perfect for layering during this season.
98 FINAL THOUGHT
We chat with amigurumi designer Carla
Mitrani of Amour Fou about her inspiration,
stress-busting crochet, and the way she
breathes life into her dolls with details of
hair and clothes.

04 Inside Crochet
 SCHEEPJES
MASTERCLASS
Mixing yarn weights Patterns
with Carmen
in this
Jorissen!
PAGE 14
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16
92 NEXT ISSUE
Autumn makes: celebrate the
country casuals tweed look, gorgeous
accessories, and Xmas gift ideas!
93 HOW TO CROCHET
Turn here for our expert guide to all 83 Jewel Desk 89 Poppy The
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www.insidecrochet.co.uk 05
 News
etc IN THE LOOP
BLOGS | BOOKS | REVIEWS | EVENTS | INTERVIEWS
P U S H E E N LOV E
Cute kitty alert! Stitch & Story have
launched a fab Pusheen kit so you can
hook your very own snack-loving tabby
friend for hugs and purrs galore. You can
also knit her best friend Sloth and both
kits use Stitch & Story’s new Roly Poly
Plush yarn. Each kit is beginner-friendly
and comes with everything you need to
bring these loveable characters to life.
From £32, www.stitchandstory.com
Must-have kit
HUG-ME CUSHION
➻ We’re thrilled to share Wulla’s
beautiful new Rookie cushion kit!
It uses a simple crochet technique
and is hooked in Caz’s fabulous
handspun and hand-dyed yarns.
And the best thing about this kit?
You choose your own colour combo!
Go calm and cool with two tones,
or take it up a notch with a neon or
variegated range. Join WullaMakes
Facebook Group for videos and tips.
From £50, www.wulla.co.uk
WIN!
Amazing indie dyer and spinner Caz is
giving away one kit to one lucky reader.
Head to www.insidecrochet.co.uk/
competitions for your chance to win.
Closing date 14 October 2020.
06 Inside Crochet
WIN!
Stone Washed and
River Washed CAL kit
WORTH
£109!
Scheepjes CAL
TAKE A VISIT TO THE MUSEUM
➻ Scheepjes’ exciting new 2020
CAL is both a crochet-a-long and
read-a-long! The wonderful Blanket
d’Histoire Naturelle is designed
by Scheepjes blogger Christina
Hadderingh and runs from 23
September to 9 December. It’s
inspired by the mesmerising Museum
of Natural History in Paris, and the
vivid descriptions of the museum in
Anthony Doerr’s best-selling novel,
All The Light We Cannot See.
Crochet your way through the
museum’s garden of luscious herbs
and enormous hedges, and cabinets
filled with butterflies and bees,
drawings of plants and flowers,
dazzling gems and crystals, ancient
fossils, and a procession of animals.
Choose from two yarn types and
four colourways inspired by the
magical colours and textures of four
museum departments – Herbarium,
Mineralogy, Conchology and
Entomology. The kits are available
now from £33.99.
Why not read the book too?
Scheepjes and Christina are hosting
weekly Book Club Sunday meet-ups
via the Official Scheepjes Facebook
Groups and sharing video interviews
with the author himself.
Get the pattern as free downloadable
PDFs from the Scheepjes website,
Official Scheepjes Facebook Groups
and Facebook page. Plus, find support
from video and photo tutorials.
www.scheepjes.com/en/
HistoireNaturelleCAL
WIN!
Scheepjes is giving away a wonderful
Stone Washed and River Washed
complete CAL kit worth £109, to one lucky
reader. Go to www.insidecrochet.co.uk/
competitions for your chance to win.
Closing date 14 October 2020.
 ➻ IN THE LOOP
News etc

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Our pick of gorgeous new

accessories and projects to
keep you busy this month.

✽ ZESTY LIME

Fresh yarns & kits Furls Odyssey crochet hooks are

celebrated for their comfort and style

STYLECRAFT’S AUTUMN PARADE

and this vibrant new lime green shade
will pep up the dullest of days!
£57.49, www.yarnworx.com
➻ Get cosy with Stylecraft’s exciting new blanket and cushion is hooked in Naturals
releases this season! Highland Heathers is Bamboo+Cotton in soothing colour
a tweedy, acrylic yarn in a rich palette of combinations and pretty stitch textures.
12 shades inspired by nature, while Amor Plus, don’t miss the beautiful new
is an aran weight yarn with variegated Queen CAL by Icelandic designer Tinna
colour changes to give a heathered stripe Thorudottir Thorvaldar, sponsored by
effect. There are three lovely new Special Stylecraft, and also featuring a limited
4ply shades to play with, too – a teal blue, edition colourway by Stylecraft blogstar,
mustard yellow and duck egg blue. Lucia Dunn. Find out more in our
Looking for a sweet nursery set? interview with Tinna on page 8.
Designer Helen Boreham’s Violet baby www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk
✽ DELICATE LINEN
We’re swooning over this very special
linen bag by All the Beautiful Things,
hand embroidered with a little bird and
W E LOVE … flower. Perfect for small projects.
£66, www.loopknittingshop.com
Pretty and practical, this beautifully made drawstring
pouch uses colourful fabrics and is perfect for storing
your latest project. Also, check out The Fibre Fox’s
stunning hand-dyed yarns in a rainbow of shades.
www.thefibrefox.co.uk

✽ SWEET TREAT

Recycling spirit
Bring a splash of colour to any room
with Mrs Moon’s cheerful Tutti Frutti
blanket kit hooked in super soft
Pudding yarns. A feast for the eyes!
➻ We love this eco-friendly initiative!
£84, www.mrsmoon.co.uk
Hedgehog Fibres have been collecting
the ties from their hand-dyed skeins,
and gathering colourful waste wool
bits, to make a soft, woolly DK yarn
that’s made of 50% recycled fibres and
50% Falkland Merino wool. The result
is Tweedy, a lovely neutral taupe/grey-
ish tweed yarn with colourful speckles.
Plus, Hedgehog Fibres are calling out
for your scraps of yarn, which they will ✽ POPPY PROFUSION
recycle into yet more Tweedy yarn! Cheer up a corner of your room with
As a thank you, they will send you this textural, statement wallhanging!
It’s easy to hook, just choose your four
a discount code. To take part, visit favourite colours. From £31.99.
www.hedgehogfibres.com www.woolcouturecompany.com

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 07

P O CK E T P A L S
➻ Slip one of these cute lucky animal
charms into your bag or pocket and
you’ll have a companion wherever you
go! These Rico Ricorumi amigurumi are
fun to crochet and would make sweet
gifts too. Get the pattern booklet from
your local Rico stockist.
www.rico-design.de
WIN!
The lovely folk at Rico
WIN
are offering one lucky
reader a colourful 20 ball
Ricorumi DK set! Head to
www.insidecrochet.co.uk/
competitions for your
chance to win.
Closing date 14 October 2020.
Keep our yarn shops afloat
YARN SHOP LOVE
➻ It’s so heartening to see more
shops opening with appointment
visits to maintain social distancing,
while others offer great online
services, from virtual shopping and
workshops, to click and collect and
mail order. The UK Hand Knitting
Association’s Yarn Shop Love
campaign continues to urge us to
support local yarn shops so we can
buy beautiful yarns and accessories,
receive inspiring advice, and enjoy
soul-boosting, fibre-filled chats!
Let’s pull together to keep our
fantastic yarny community alive!
Find a map and regional shop
listings at www.ukhandknitting.com
08 Inside Crochet
Designer
WE LOVE
[@tinnahekl]
TINNA THORUDOTTIR THORVALDAR
Tell us a
bit about
yourself... I live
in Reykjavik
with my
husband and
two sons
(10 and 12).
My husband
is Cuban and we divide our time
between Reykjavik and Havana.
Could you tell us what you do?
I’m a textile artist and mainly do
crochet designs, my favourite being
designing big, colourful mosaic
crochet blankets. I embroider too,
mainly upcycling and adding to
old embroidery pieces. I’ve been
designing for more than ten years
and have published four crochet
books in Iceland. I have taught
hundreds of people to crochet over
the last 12 years. Now I’ve moved into
making tutorials and am focusing
more on my YouTube channel which
is great fun! I’m also working on my
Beginners Guide to Mosaic Crochet.
Mosaic crochet is such fun and
the best part is that it looks really
complicated when it really isn’t!
How did you learn to crochet?
My great grandmother taught me
how to crochet when I was nine,
after having taught me embroidery.
All the women in my family are and
were great textile makers and my
grandmother taught me how to knit.
I learned a lot from them, especially
the virtue of proper finishing and the
joy of making warm woolly things.
Have you always wanted to be a
crochet designer? Not at all, this
was all just a happy coincidence!
My plan was to be a scholar in
Spanish linguistics. While I was an
undergraduate, I started giving
crochet classes to support myself
and my family. I realised there hadn’t
been a crochet book published in
Iceland for over 50 years, so I saw
an opportunity. I landed my first
publishing deal and the ball kept
rolling from there. I finished my
master’s degree, but by then I was
working as full time as a crochet
designer and teacher. Then in 2018
I started writing my patterns in
English and publishing them on
Ravelry. That was a game changer
and today I can support myself with
the sales from my crochet patterns.
Which is a dream come true.
Tell us about why you love mosaic
crochet… Mosaic crochet is such
a simple and fun technique and
allows for great possibilities in
colour play! When I buy yarn, I’m
buying colours, and then I organise
my stash by weight, not brand. I
prefer natural fibres, and especially
wool, which is what we mostly
use in Iceland. For the obvious
reason that we want things to
be warm! And also because we
have more sheep than people, so
Icelandic wool is always the most
economical yarn choice. I do love
Merino wool as well. Silk and llama
wool are also a special favourite.
As well as all neon pink yarn!
What inspires your designs? Most
of my designs are inspired by my
surroundings, both nature and
cities. For example my Terrazzo
 ➻ IN THE LOOP
Blacker YarnS Cove News etc
King Cole Chunky Limited Edition Baa Ram Ewe
ForeSt Aran Pip Naturals

Stylecraft
CaMaRoSe
Highland HeatherS
Snefnug

READY FOR AUTUMN

It’s an exciting time at Inside Crochet HQ… new season yarn
deliveries are arriving, and there’s some real gems to try!

Baa Ram Ewe Pip Naturals

100% wool • 25g/116m/126yds • £3.40 from www.tangled-yarn.co.uk
The eight new Naturals, inspired by the Yorkshire landscape, join the gorgeously sheepy range of
18 Colourwork shades, intended for stranded knitting but also perfect for motif or colourwork crochet.
Working up as 4ply, this rustic, soft and bouncy yarn is spun and dyed in Yorkshire.

Blacker Yarns Cove Chunky Limited Edition (also available in 4ply)

100% wool • 100g/101m/110yds • £19.00 from www.blackeryarns.co.uk
Afghan was inspired by the Arabic The new Cove range from Cornish yarn brand Blacker Yarns celebrates the beautiful natural colours
Pattern: Rnds 1–3 of Claire Montgomerie’s Festival Vibes Shawl motif, issue 127

of the coastline with six stunning shades on a soft, heathered base that blends Bluefaced Leicester,
mosaic tiles of Andalucia. My
Shetland and Norfolk Horn with Merino. The Chunky is soft with a good drape and a squishy bounce.
Havana Afghan is inspired by my
second home, Havana. Stylecraft Highland Heathers
What are you looking forward to? 100% acrylic • 100g/272m/297yds • £2.79 from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

My 2020 crochet along, the Queen This new heathery DK weight yarn is brilliant value, washable at low temperatures and hooks up very
smoothly. For those who find it difficult to wear wool next to the skin, the 12 shades, inspired by nature,
CAL, launches on 18 September. give a really tweedy feel to garments and accessories. We worked up Moss, a rich, deep chocolately
It’s always such fun to do a crochet- brown that would combine well with the brighter shades.
along and I absolutely love the
sense of community you can King Cole Forest Aran
35% recycled wool/65% recycled other • 100g/300m/328yds • £3.49 from www.deramores.com
feel during a CAL, with everyone
Gorgeously soft, with pretty tweedy flecks in a range of ten vintage colourways, this new aran weight,
sharing their different versions eco-conscious yarn from King Cole, is a good choice for accessories and homewares, and is soft and
and helping each other out. This durable enough for family blanket projects. Washable at 40 degrees.
time I’m especially excited because
there has been a huge rise in the CaMaRose Snefnug
55% alpaca/35% cotton/10% Merino wool • 50g/110m/120yds • £8.50 from www.loopknittingshop.com
popularity of mosaic crochet, This soft, aran-weight fluffball on a chainette base, carries the delightful name of Snefnug (Danish for
which I can feel in my Facebook snowflake) and is perfectly named because it feels so light to wear, and not at all itchy, so great for
group, Tinna’s Crochet Club, where childrenswear too. It gives the look of mohair, but is easier to crochet with and frogs without catching.
I’m hosting the CAL, as well as on
my YouTube channel. I took care
to keep it simple, so that mosaic
newbies would be able to join in on @curlyhairanddimples
the fun! My Queen CAL comes with
three different versions and one of
them I call the Adventurous Queen.
You have the option to arrange all
the different little patterns inside Congratulations to Karen Acton,
who made Lisa Cook’s Vine on
the diamond grid the way you like Time Shawl from issue 126.
it best. This way you take part in Karen wins a 12-month digital subscription!
the design process! Crochet is To be in with a chance of winning, share
your recent makes from the magazine
my creative outlet and one of my
on Instagram using the hashtag
missions is to encourage others #myinsidecrochet and
to unleash their creativity through tag us @insidecrochet
their crochet. The Queen CAL is
one step in that mission of mine!

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 09
 HELDA PANAGARY

Fo o d fo r th o u g h t
During lockdown, regular Inside Crochet designer, trained chef and devoted grandmother,
Helda Panagary, started sharing her tasty family recipes with our crafting community online,
in a bid to spread a little soothing food for the soul in these often worrying times. We
loved them so much, we’ve asked her to share her favourites every month – good, seasonal,
nourishing food that will make your heart sing! Plus a little bit of storytelling positivity…

Helda’s fee for her recipes Au be rgin e an d h allo u m i w raps

will be paid in books -
children’s storybooks that ➻ This stylish, deceptively easy vegetarian dish combines
celebrate all sections of smoky, griddled aubergine slices, rolled up and stuffed with
our community, especially halloumi, lemon and honey. Baked until soft, it is topped with
BAME characters; books a tomato and basil salsa.
that will help spread love, Recipe serves four as a starter, or two as a main course
positivity and all-important
recognition. As Helda says, INGREDIENTS
“We just need our future generations not to feel ❈ 1 medium sized aubergine
unseen. Growing up, being mixed race, I never saw ❈ Olive oil, spray or 1tsp olive oil
myself in books and I want it to be so different for my ❈ 225g pack halloumi
grandchildren.” So, each month, as well as a delicious ❈ ½ lemon, zest and juice
recipe, there will be a cheery book review from Helda ❈ Pinch of crushed chillies (optional)
(feel free to send us recommendations). She will be ❈ 1tsp honey
reading the story to her grandchildren, as well as ❈ 100g baby plum tomatoes,
donating a copy to their grateful school library, and cut into quarters
we will have copies to give away. ❈ 8 to 9 basil leaves, finely shredded
❈ Salt and pepper
❈ Pinch of sugar

It’s Yo u r W o rld N o w METHOD

by Barry Falls
This heartwarming,
beautifully illustrated book
is full of diverse characters.
It is almost written like
a letter to a child from a
parent; explaining things
and passing on knowledge
about the world and the child’s place in it,
what they can aspire to and do in life. Told in
three important lessons, this book celebrates
the life set ahead of us, from the good to the
bad, and reminds us all to dream big and
never give up!
To win a copy of this beautiful story, suitable
for 4–7 year olds and us grown-ups too, visit
www.insidecrochet.co.uk/competitions.
1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/fan 180°C/Gas mark 6. Trim the
stalk end of the aubergine, then working lengthways cut into
5mm slices. Aim for eight slices.
2. Heat a griddle pan until hot. Spray the aubergine slices
lightly with the olive oil, or if you don’t have a spray oil, coat
all the slices with ½ tsp olive oil. Griddle slices until nice and
charred on both sides. You are looking for nice char marks.
3. Cut the halloumi into eight finger-sized sticks, then place in
a bowl with the lemon zest, add the chilli and a little bit of
basil, reserving the majority for salsa, toss together to coat.
4. Wrap each halloumi stick in a slice of aubergine and place on
baking tray, seam side down, and spray with more olive oil.
Season with black pepper and drizzle with the honey.
5. Bake for ten minutes. Whilst it is baking, in a bowl add
chopped tomatoes, basil, salt and pepper, a little pinch of
sugar and the other ½ tsp of olive oil. Set aside. Remove
the aubergine. Best served immediately but it is also good
warm – just squeeze the lemon juice and top with salsa, then
garnish with a few more basil leaves.

10 Inside Crochet
 e
Use cod
for
HOOK4 nt
cou
10% dis

Bow Fiddle Yarns is based in the North East of Scotland and uses the local area as
inspiration for the small batch hand dyed yarns. Specialising in fingering / sock
weight yarns we have everything from 20g to 150g skeins.

www.bowfiddleyarns.com

Colourful hand dyed yarns from

the South East of England.
Follow us and find us on Etsy.
 E: rufflescrochet@gmail.com

Hand Dyed Yarns - Assorted colours and sizes

Specialising in Mini Skeins, ideal for
Scrapghans and other projects.

@jens_crafty_charms

www.etsy.com/uk/shop/JensCraftyCharms
 ➻ IN THE LOOP
Books

BOOKS
W E ARE
A LS O R E A D I N G...

WE REVIEW NEW AND EXCITING RELEASES Amigurumi Style Crochet

Cara Medus
White Owl, £14.99 • UK terminology

➻ Inspired by a lifelong
love of dressing up dolls,
this adorable collection
introduces us to Betty and
her cat Bert – and a huge
selection of clothes for Betty
to wear. Start by making Betty herself, with
her hourglass figure and pink underwear,
then choose an outfit for her – how about
a pretty red dress and pinny? A stylish
evening gown? Or a wonderful holiday
outfit, including headdress, striped trousers
and a travel basket for Bert. Detailed
instructions are given for all pieces.

Crocheted Home
Kate Eastwood
CICO Books, £12.99 • UK terminology

➻ There’s nothing quite

like a home filled with
handmade items, especially
fabrics – literally being able
to surround yourself in a
cosy expression of love and
creativity. This book is packed with crochet
patterns to fill your home – or the homes of
your loved ones – from adorable blankets to
Crochet Hacking cushions, chunky bathmats, coasters, peg
bags and more. We particularly love Kate’s
Emma Friedlander-Collins appliqué technique, though our favourite
David & Charles, £15.99 • UK terminology design may have to be the spring table
runner, worked in a grass effect fun fur yarn!
➻ If you’ve been inspired by our sustainable crochet theme, you’ll
love this new book from Emma Friedlander-Collins. It begins by
introducing Emma’s concept of “hacking” – seeing the potential Amigurumi
in old and second-hand clothes and remodelling them to make
Wildlife Adventure
something new and wonderful by cutting them up, sewing in new
Airali Design & Irene Strange
places and of course adding in some crochet. She suggests the
PDF, £24, from
basic tools you’ll need but the emphasis is on accessibility – anyone can do this!
www.amigurumiadventures.etsy.com
From then on it’s straight into a collection of stunning but practical projects,
themed by fabric type. At the start of each section Emma talks you through the ➻ This adorable ebook
different techniques needed for each, whether that’s punching holes into jeans collection from two of our
or adding running stitch along the edges of a t-shirt to give a base to crochet on. favourite ami designers
The projects themselves are colourful and bubbling over with Emma’s features 12 “extremely
personality, but entirely adaptable, so no matter what your style you can use cute endangered
these techniques. Turn an old shirt into a trendy jacket by sewing in a waistband animals”, with 10% of
and replacing the sleeves with crocheted ones made of granny squares. Cut the profits going to the World Wildlife
open a sweatshirt and turn it into a zipped jacket. Add a striped yoke to a boring Fund. Patterns include a pygmy three-toed
old jumper… And though these projects look gorgeous, the emphasis is on sloth (possibly the cutest crochet we’ve
providing a recipe for you to follow with your own clothes and yarns – and style ever seen), an orangutan, green sea turtle,
– rather than on strict patterns for you to follow exactly. axolotl, red panda and more. Designs are
Packed with facts about fast fashion and a huge amount of enthusiasm for a mostly worked in Rico Ricorumi DK, with
better way of refreshing our wardrobes, this is an inspiring collection that will a few fluffier yarns added for texture, and
have you seeing the potential in every charity shop rail. there are gorgeous step-by-step pictures.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 13

M I X I N G YA R N W E I G H T S
Pa r t o n e : So lid a n d s h e e r
Crochet and knitwear designer Carmen
finds tremendous joy in teaching others
how to knit and crochet, and loves
seeing that “spark” in her students’ eyes
when it finally clicks. Follow her journey
as a fulltime designer on Instagram
@newleafdesigns.nl and find her patterns
on www.newleafdesigns.nl. Do you like
to watch podcasts? Find her YouTube
Channel “New Leaf Podcast” and join
Carmen for a crafty chat and a cuppa.
14 Inside Crochet
MASTERCLASS:
B Y S C H E E PJ E S B LO G G E R
CARMEN JORISSEN
My craft y jour ney star ted when I was
studying in Ch in a, back in 2011. I was
ver y hom esick at tim es, so m y m om sent
m e som e crochet kits of trad ition al Dutch
treats. I rem em ber th rowing m y WIP in
the cor ner because I just cou ld not
understand the m agic loop in str uction s,
but I’m so glad I persevered! Crochet
and kn it ting are now a par t of m y life
and m y career as well for wh ich I am
forever gratefu l.
Fast for ward a couple of years, and I
still love exper im enting with yar n s. I like
th in king outside of the box and com ing up
with new ways to look at yar n s. One of the
things I really like is mixing different yarn
weights, and yarn with different fibre
contents. It’s still ver y much of a jour ney
for m yself but that m akes it so much fun!
And what’s m ore, there’s no r ight or
wrong way to do th is. Want to pair a
th icker yar n with a laceweight? Why not!
Sure, there are som e practical th ings to
keep in m ind, for example washabilit y,
but there really is a lot of room for
exper im enting.
A really fun project from last year was
m y J une Mandala for Sim y’s Year of
Mandalas. Th is was a challenge where you
get a d igital piece of m andala ar t work,
and have to recreate it with yar n. No
pat ter n , just for fun. And that just sparked
m y in spiration like noth ing else. I used a
whole bunch of Scheepjes yar n s, includ ing
cot ton-acr ylic blends, alpaca laceweight,
Mer ino sock yar n s, you n am e it! Star ting
out with fine yarns in the middle and then
gradually m oving on to heavier weight
yar n s towards the edge.
Another way to com bine yar n s is to use
a “fu zzy” yar n together with a yar n that
has a lot of stitch definition, such as
cot ton. In the sample shown above r ight I
have used Scheepjes Our Tr ibe together
with Scheepjes Caton a. Wh ile Scheepjes
Our Tr ibe isn’t what you wou ld descr ibe as
a fu zzy yar n , the softness alm ost m akes
the stitches blur into each other. Scheepjes
Caton a on the other hand creates really
pronounced stitches and th is m akes for a
n ice contrast.
The shawl pat ter n I have designed for
you to have a lit tle play with com bines one
of m y favour ite yar n s – Scheepjes Wh irl
– with a yar n that doesn’t cross m y m ind
as often: Scheepjes Ma xi. The Scheepjes
Wh irl yar n is fam ous for its colour
grad ient and will m ake any pat ter n look
great, but I wanted to add in a lit tle touch
of elegance. Scheepjes Ma xi is a
m ercer ised cot ton laceweight yar n , and
com es in 25g balls (Sweet Treat) and 50 g
balls (Sugar Rush). It’s per fect if you want
that sheer, see-through effect of mohair,
but none of the fu zz. I really like m ohair
for kn it ting, but for crochet I tend to
choose sm oother yar n s, and Scheepjes
Ma xi is just per fect for what I was tr ying
to ach ieve here. Together with Scheepjes
Wh irl, you then get a shawl that is m ostly
opaque, but with som e tran slucent str ipes
and I just find that so elegant and classy.
Ready to have som e fun? Grab your
hook and let’s get star ted!
Scheepjes Our Tribe combined
with Scheepjes Catona gives a
beautiful, blurred finish

TIPS & TRICKS

Try to see combining different
yarns as an experiment.
There are no rules!

• When working with different

weights for the same shawl or
garment, use a hook size that is
suitable for the heavier weight
yarn. This way you will have a
regular tension for the heavier
weight yarn, and a looser tension
for the finer yarn, which gives
a beautiful and elegant effect.
If you are mixing weights for
amigurumi or pillows, you will
want to change hook size to
make it suitable for each of the
yarns, in order for the stuffing to
not show through the fabric.

• If you are combining two yarns

that have different washing
instructions, wash the item
according to the most sensitive
yarn. For example, cotton can be
washed on high temperatures,
but you want to be much more
careful with wool or mohair, so
keep that in mind.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 15
 MATERIALS
● Scheepjes Whirl,
60% cotton/40% acrylic,
220g/1000m/1094yds
Yarn A: Sea Breeze Tease
781 x 1 ball
● Scheepjes Maxi Sugar
Rush, 100% cotton,
50g/280m/306yds
Yarn B: Chrystalline 385
x 4 balls
● 3mm hook
● Stitch markers (optional)
TENSION
Work 21tr and 10.5 rows to
measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in
using 3mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Length approximately
165cm/65in from pointed tip
to widest edge.
Width approximately
165cm/65in along widest edge.
PATTERN NOTES
This shawl is made in rows,
starting from the pointed tip.
The rows will become wider as
you go, continue working until
the yarn runs out. Two types of
yarn are alternated throughout
the shawl: a 4ply-weight and
a laceweight yarn. Each yarn
is used for two rows before
Ch e vro n switching to the other. Do not
cut the yarn when it is not
Row 1: (WS) 3ch (counts as first
tr here and throughout), 3tr in
ring, turn – 4 sts.
Row 2: (RS) 3ch, 1tr in same st,
1tr, 2tr in next st, 1tr, turn – 6 sts.
Row 3: 3ch, 1tr in same st, 2tr,
2tr in next st, 2tr, turn – 8 sts.
Row 4: 3ch, 1tr in same st, [1tr,
2tr in next st] three times, 1tr,
change to yarn B on last pull
through (see Pattern Notes),
turn – 12 sts.
Cont with yarn B, do not cut
yarn A.
Row 5: 3ch, 1tr flo in same st,
[2tr flo, 2tr flo in next st] three
times, 2tr flo, turn – 16 sts.
Row 6: 3ch, 1tr in same st, [3tr,
2tr in next st] three times, 3tr,
change to yarn A, turn – 20 sts.
Row 7: 3ch, 1tr in same st, [4tr,
2tr in next st] three times, 4tr,
turn – 24 sts.
Row 8: 3ch, 1tr in next st, (1tr,
2ch, 2tr) in next st, 4tr, miss
2 sts, 4tr, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in next
st, 3tr, miss 2 sts, 3tr, (2tr, 2ch,
1tr) in next st, 1tr, change to
yarn B, turn – 27 sts.
Row 9: 3ch, 1tr flo in next st,
(1tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 4tr flo,
miss 2 sts, 4tr flo, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr)
in 2ch-sp, 5tr flo, miss 2 sts, 5tr
flo, (2tr, 2ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp, 3tr
flo, turn – 33 sts.
Row 10: 3ch, 1tr in next st,
2tr, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp, 6tr,
miss 2 sts, 6tr, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in
2ch-sp, 5tr, miss 2 sts, 5tr, (1tr,

Bo u le va rd being used, but carry it along

the edge.
2ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp, 3tr, change
to yarn A, turn – 35 sts.

Sh aw l Change yarn on last st of row,

BY CARMEN JORISSEN
Using a laceweight together with a 4ply-
weight yarn adds a touch of elegance, and
the stunning gradient of Scheepjes Whirl
does the rest!
by holding new yarn together
with indicated st, yrh, insert
hook in st and underneath
new yarn, yrh, pull up a loop,
yrh with old yarn, pull through
2 lps, yrh with new yarn, pull
through 2 lps.
Whenever changing to yarn B,
always work first row in front
loops only. This will create visual
lines on RS of piece.
SHAWL
START With yarn A, make an
adjustable ring.
CHEVRON REPEAT
Rows are named A1/A2 and
B1/B2 to make it easier to
remember which yarn to use.
Row A1: (WS) 3ch, 1tr in next
st, 1tr in each st to 2ch-sp, (1tr,
2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 1tr in each
st until 1 st before gap, miss 2
sts, 1tr in each st until 2ch-sp,
(2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 1tr in
each st until 1 st before gap (ie
triangular hole created by two
missed sts in previous row), miss
2 sts, 1tr in each st until 2ch-sp,
(2tr, 2ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp**, 1tr in
each st until last 3 sts, tr2tog,
1tr, turn – inc 5 sts.

16 Inside Crochet
Row A2: (RS) 3ch, tr2tog over
next 2 sts, 1tr in each st until
2ch-sp, *(1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp,
1tr in each st until 1 st before
gap, miss 2 sts, 1tr in each st
until 2ch-sp; rep from * once
more, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp,
1tr in each st to end, change to
yarn B, turn – inc 1 st.
Row B1: 3ch, 1tr flo in each st
until 2ch-sp, *(1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in
2ch-sp, 1tr flo in each st until
1 st before gap, miss 2 sts, 1tr
flo in each st until 2ch-sp; rep
from * once more, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr)
in 2ch-sp, 1tr flo in each st until
last 3 sts, tr2tog flo, 1tr flo, turn
– inc 1 st.
Row B2: As Row A2, change to
yarn A, turn – inc 1 st.
Rep these four rows twice more
(12 rows worked).
Work next rep as folls
(differences to regular repeat
are marked in bold):
ALTERNATE
CHEVRON REPEAT
Alternate Row A1: (WS) As
Row A1 to **, 1tr in each st until
end of row, turn – inc 6 sts.
Alternate Row A2: (RS) As
Approx 165cm/65in
Row A2 – inc 1 st.
Alternate Row B1: 3ch, 1tr
flo in each st until 2ch-sp, *(1tr,
2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 1tr flo in
each st until 1 st before gap,
miss 2 sts, 1tr flo in each st until
2ch-sp, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-
sp, 1tr flo in each st until 1 st
before gap, miss 2 sts, 1tr flo in
each st until 2ch-sp, (2tr, 2ch,
1tr) in 2ch-sp, 1tr flo in each st
until last 3 sts, tr2tog flo, 1tr flo,
turn – inc 5 sts.
Alternate Row B2: As Row B2
Approx 165cm/65in
– inc 1 st.
These 16 rows form pattern and
are repeated. Continue until yarn runs out FINISHING
Place a marker in each Alternate ending with either Row A2 or Weave in all ends and END
Row A1 to help keep track. Alternate Row A2. block to measurements.
17 17
www.insidecrochet.co.uk
www.insidecrochet.co.uk
Sustainable wardrobe
Stylish, hardworking clothes in eco-friendly yarns.
PHOTOGRAPHS LEANNE JADE STYLING CLAIRE MONTGOMERIE
HAIR AND MAKE-UP LANA MAUGÉ
 Igam Wrap by Fay Dashper-Hughes
Using Nellie & Eve 4ply BFL/Masham Pattern page 36
BELOW
Transference Shawl by Helda Panagary Using Eden Cottage Yarns Rosedale 4ply Pattern page 66

ABOVE
Ruffled Feathers Shawl by Rosina Northcott Using John Arbon Textiles Yarnadelic Sport Pattern page 70

OPPOSITE
Hardworking Wrap Cardigan by Claire Montgomerie Using CaMaRose Okologisk Hverdagsuld Pattern page 43
ABOVE
Artisan Tunic by Cassie Ward Using Willow and Lark Heath Pattern page 46

OPPOSITE
Purposeful Jacket by Jacinta Bowie Using iinouiio DK Pattern page 40
 01566 777 635
enquiries@blackeryarns.co.uk
www.blackeryarns.co.uk

Blacker Swan, launched in 2012, is based on a partnership started between

Blacker Yarns and Andrez and Ali Short from Swan Inlet Farm on the Falkland Islands.
Andrez and Ali have now retired, they have handed on the flock to Mike and Donna Evans at Spring Point Farm. Like t
the Evans will shear these specialist Dohne merino sheep, sort and grade the fleeces and send them by ship to the UK, w
turn the fine white fleeces into luxurious worsted spun single flock yarns. In order to enhance the base shade and reduce t
tendency of Merino to pill, we also add Shetland and dark Blue-faced Leicester wool to our Pale Maiden, Stone and San
The small amount of dark fibre increases the depth of dye shades and enhances the special Swan palette.

The handle is very smooth, soft and luxurious: possibly the best knitting yarn in the world! Being worsted spun, the yar
bulky, drapey quality and good stitch definition, which will work well for structured and flowing garments and also for t

Blacker Yarns, Blacker Swan 4ply, Falkland Islands Merino, 100% wool, 50g/175m/190yds, teal and Pale Maiden (YB)
 Wrapping up
Homewares and accessories you’ll want to show off.
PHOTOGRAPHS LEANNE JADE AND SOPHIE PEIRSMAN
STYLING CLAIRE MONTGOMERIE HAIR AND MAKE-UP BEKI DIXON AND LANA MAUGÉ

Radar Love Blanket by Annelies Baes

Using Rico Design Essentials Merino DK
Pattern page 76
WRAPPING UP

BELOW (L-R)
Romantic Beanie by Camilla Baroe Using Isager Alpaca 2 Pattern page 58
Ticking Wrist Warmers by Rosina Northcott Using Blacker Yarns Blacker Swan 4-ply Pattern page 79

ABOVE
Astrakhan Bolster Cushion by Jane Czaja Using Caron Big Cakes Pattern page 73
Bee Tidy Wall Hanging by Sarah-Jane Hicks Using Scheepjes Mighty and Scheepjes Catona Pattern page 68

26 Inside Crochet
Utility Backpack by Zoe Curtis Using Wool and the Gang Ra-Ra Raffia Pattern page 62

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 27
WRAPPING UP

BELOW
Workwear Jumper by Sandra Gutierrez Using The Fibre Co. Lore Pattern page 50
Textured Headband by Anna Nikipirowicz Using Rowan Cotton Glace DK Pattern page 64

ABOVE
Tyne Wrap by Anna Nikipirowicz Using Isager Spinni Pattern page 56

28 Inside Crochet
BELOW
Jewel Desk Tidy Set by Fay Dashper-Hughes Using Erika Knight Gossypium Cotton Pattern page 83

RIGHT
Poppy the Pixie by Amour Fou Using 4ply weight yarn Pattern page 89

Featured in photoshoots: Magda shirt in cinnamon (£165), Bud bag (£195) by Mhulot, www.mhulot.co.uk
Pinafore apron (£55), Chloe cotton shirt (£65), Kirsty cotton shirt dress (£165) by Voy, www.voyclothing.com
Yellow Octagon Earrings (£12.50) by The Kindred Workshop, Instagram @thekindredworkshop
Tulip set of hooks, available from Scheepjes retailers

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 29

W h at it is , w h e n yo u n e e d it an d h o w to ge t it.
Drape describes the way that a fabric hangs
when you hold it up. A fine flowing fabric
with good drape will hang in sm all ripples
when gathered slightly in the hand, a fabric
with less drape will gather into larger cones.
Another way to think about drape is, “how
easily does the fabric m ove?”
Whenever we crochet we are creating a
fabric. As crocheters, we should be thinking
along the sam e lines as dressm akers;
creating different amounts of drape for
different projects and combining drape
within a garm ent to create structure where
needed and m ovem ent where desired.
Although we use the term “good drape”,
a lack of drape isn’t bad in itself, we just
need to ensure that we get the right am ount
of drape for the use it is intended for.
When you are checking for drape the best
approach is to m ake extra large swatches.
It can be really difficult to tell how the
fabric you’ve created is going to behave
over a sm all 10 cm / 4in swatch. I would
recom m end m aking a swatch of 15cm / 6in
or, ideally, larger. Hold the swatch in your
30 Inside Crochet
D rap e
hand and look at how it falls away, pinch
it and see how it behaves. Does it have the
correct flow or stiffness for its purpose?
If not, how can I increase or decrease the
drape for m y purpose?
So let’s take a look at the different factors
that affect drape in crochet fabrics.
Stitch typ e s
The type of stitches you use are critical to
creating the drape you want. The m ain thing
you want to be thinking about here is how
m uch friction the stitch creates.
The two m ain factors that determ ine
the friction and therefore the drape of a
stitch are how it is m ade and where it is
m ade. Two useful questions to consider
when thinking about the stitch pattern
are: “How m any points of contact are there
between stitches?” and, “How tight are
those points of contact?”
Consider for a m om ent how a norm al
double crochet stitch is form ed: you insert
your hook under both loops of the stitch,
you draw a loop of yarn through those
two loops. Those four strands m ust m ove
against each other in order for the fabric
to m ove. By working into the back loop or
front loop only you could increase the drape
of the fabric as you now only have three
strands rubbing against each other. As you
form a taller stitch such as a treble you’ll
notice that the additional yarn over creates
m ore drape in two ways. Firstly, there is
slightly m ore space created around the two
strands of the stitch below because of the
construction of the stitch, so this slightly
reduces the friction. Secondly, there are
fewer rows and so fewer points of friction in
the length of the fabric. Generally the taller
the stitch the m ore drape the fabric has; the
shorter the less drape.
Where you place the stitch m atters too.
We’ve already m entioned that working into
only one loop of the stitch will decrease the
friction but so can working into anywhere
where the stitch has a little m ore space to
m ove. Good exam ples of this are the spaces
between stitches or into chain spaces to
decrease the friction and increase the drape.
Stitches that reduce the contact points,
even if those contact points then have a
lot of friction, will allow the fabric to m ove
m ore freely – patterns with shells are good
exam ples of this.
Drape can also vary from the horizontal
to the vertical in crochet – that is it
could have good drape in one direction
but less drape in the other. So we also
need to consider the direction the fabric
is created in and how that im pacts the
finished garment.
H o o k s ize
Traditionally crochet has had a bit of a bad
reputation for being stiff. It’s often said
to be better for hom ewares than it is for
clothing. This is probably because yarn
m anufacturers used the sam e suggested
hook and knitting needle size on ball bands.
A piece of fabric knitted in stocking stitch
will have significantly more drape than a
piece of fabric m ade in double crochet if

Th e o n ly a c c u r a te w a y to te ll h o w a ya r n w i ll d r a p e
i s to s w a tc h w i th i t, b u t yo u c a n g e t a n i d e a b y r u b b i n g
s tr a n d s o f th e ya r n a g a i n s t o n e a n o th e r a n d s e e i n g
h o w m u c h fr i c ti o n th e r e i s .
they are both m ade using the sam e size
needle or hook. And this is m ostly because
of the way the fabric is created: in knitting
two strands are pulled through one strand
and no further twists are added, so you are
creating a fabric with less friction in it.
Going up a hook size will increase the
drape of the fabric. A 4ply yarn would
typically have a recom m ended hook size
of 3m m on the ball band. This will create a
very tight fabric with little drape. Moving
up to a 4m m hook will generally create
enough drape for a jum per, and I have used
as large as a 6m m hook to get the correct
drape for a shawl.
Again you can see how this relates to
friction in the fabric because you are giving
the yarn more space to move around in when
you create the stitches with a larger hook.
You’ll notice often in garm ents that a
sm aller hook is used for necklines, button
bands, hems and cuffs than the rest of the
fabric. This is a good exam ple of altering
the drape for function. This creates areas
with less drape that are designed to be
m ore rigid. These are all areas where
dressm akers would use interfacing or
facings to create stiffness.
Yarn s e le ctio n
Once again we return to friction. Som e
yarns will stick together m ore as they are
worked, som e glide fairly freely against
them selves. The way a yarn is spun, the
m aterials it uses and how it is treated can all
affect the drape of the finished fabric.
All yarn is m ade from strands of one or
more type of fibre. Fibres can have shorter
or longer strands (the staple length) and
they can have coarse or hooked hairs or be
very naturally curly (the crim p). In general,
the longer the staple length and the less the
crim p, the m ore natural drape the resulting
fabric will have. Fibres considered to have
very good drape include cashm ere, cam el,
alpaca, silk, linen, rayon, bam boo, Tencel
and wool (som e breeds will have m ore than
others – Merino and Bluefaced Leicester
h
are com m only spun wools known for long
staple length and low crim p). Cotton, nylon,
polyester and acrylic are all considered
to have good drape but this can vary
depending on how they are processed.
Fibres that tangle or stick or have an
inherent stiffness even after washing will
increase friction and so reduce drape. These
fibres include mohair, angora, and ramie.
The spinning process also plays a part
because spinning can either sm ooth these
individual strands (worsted spun) or allow
them to keep their natural structure and
trap air by not aligning them (woolen spun).
A woolen spun yarn will produce a fabric
with less drape than the same fibre worsted
spun because the woolen spun yarn creates
m ore friction.
Various processes can be used when
preparing the yarn and these will all affect
the drape. Chem ical processes that create
a superwash yarn are designed to stop the
little hairs poking out and being able to felt
together, this therefore reduces the friction.
Mercerised cotton will have greater drape
than cotton, which will have m ore drape
than brushed cotton.
The finer or thinner a yarn is spun, the
greater the drape it is possible to achieve,
everything else being equal. This is sim ply
because the sm aller stitches allow the fabric
to m ove in sm aller folds. While it’s possible
to create drape in a very chunky yarn, you
are going to have to utilise m ore of the other
m ethods to achieve it. Choosing laceweight
or 4ply yarns m akes it easy to create a fabric
that drapes well and is wearable.
Obviously, there are so m any factors
involved in how a yarn will drape it is
difficult to know without seeing and feeling
the yarn. The only accurate way to tell how a
yarn will drape is to swatch with it, but you
can get an idea by rubbing strands of the
yarn against one another and seeing how
m uch friction there is.
If you are looking for yarns for garm ents,
often a blend works well. Fibres with a lot
of drape often don’t have a lot of elasticity so
don’t rem em ber their shape well. Blending
silk (very good drape) with a wool (very
good elasticity) will give you the benefits of
both m aterials.
Se am in g ve rs u s s e am le s s
Anywhere you have a seam in a fabric you
have reduced the drape in that area, because
the fabric is held doubled and joined with
another stitch. In crochet we have an
advantage over dressm akers: we can create
garm ents that don’t need any seam s so
we don’t need to reduce drape if we don’t
want to. If you want to work a seam less
garm ent but you would like the structure of
seam s you can create a fake seam by either
working denser stitches in an area of the
garm ent where you need the extra structure,
or by applying a technique such as surface
crochet after the garm ent is m ade.
Makin g th e p e rfe ct fabric
Creating a fabric with the drape you need is
going to be a careful interplay of all of these
factors. You can use them to counteract
each other or enhance each other to get just
the effect you are looking for.
At its simplest, choosing a design you love,
getting the correct tension for the pattern
and making sure you consider the properties
of the yarn properly if you substitute it will
ensure that you get the correct amount of
drape. Understanding all of the elements and
using them together enables you to either
confidently change an existing pattern or
help you design your own.
Joanne Scrace has been designing and
writing about crochet for the past decade.
She has a natural interest in the material
science behind the craft and enjoys
exploring how and why designs work or fail.
She is an occasional spinner, enjoys knitting
and dressmaking and has studied pattern
cutting, all of which inform her designs.
You can find more of her work at
www.thecrochetproject.com.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 31
 MATERIALS
● West Yorkshire Spinners
Exquisite 4ply,
80% Falkland wool/
20% mulberry silk,
100g/400m/437yds
Shade: Regal x 3 (3, 3, 3,
4, 4, 5, 5, 5) skeins
● 4mm hook
● Four stitch markers
YARN ALTERNATIVES
Alpaca or bamboo blends would
give a similar drape to the fabric.
TENSION
Work 7 shells and 11 rows in
pattern to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in using 4mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL,
4XL, 5XL)
To fit bust up to: 75 (85, 95,
105, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155)cm/
30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58,
62)in.
SPECIAL STITCHES
Foundation tr (ftr): 3ch, yrh,
Lo ve insert hook in first ch, yrh and
pull up a loop (3 loops on hook),
Tria n gle s yrh, pull through first loop (to
create ‘chain’), [yrh, pull through
Sw e ate r 2 loops] twice, *yrh, insert hook
in chain of last st, yrh and pull
BY JOANNE SCRACE up a loop, yrh, pull through first
loop, [yrh, pull through 2 loops]
A simple yet elegant piece twice; rep from * to desired
perfect for layering. number of sts.
V-st: (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in same place.
Shell: 3tr in same place.
Sp: Space between two Shells
ADD TO THE STASH or V-sts.
Buy this luxurious yarn from
www.wyspinners.com
PATTERN NOTES
This top down cropped sweater
with raglan shaping and three-
quarter length sleeves uses a
simple granny row pattern as its
basis, which forms triangles in
solid and relief.
The pattern slowly transforms
into more open triangles ending
32 Inside Crochet
with a simple triangular lace
edging.
(4ch, 1tr) at start of a round
counts as one V-st.
(3ch, 2tr) at start of a round
counts as one shell.
The joining method at the yoke
and body causes the “seam” to
move across the back. As it isn’t
a noticeable join this works well.
If you prefer to keep the joins
in a straight line then use the
technique used in the sleeves of
alternating where the first shell
is made.
Designed to be worn oversized,
choose a size at least 7cm/3in
larger than your bust.
TEE
START Begin at neck edge.
With 4mm hook,
144 (150, 150, 144, 144, 150,
150, 150, 150)ftr (see Special
Stitches), join to work in a rnd
without twisting, do not turn.
Set-up Rnd: (4ch, 1tr) in first st
(counts as first V-st), miss 2 sts,
*V-st (see Special Stitches) in
next st, miss 2 sts; rep from *
around, sl st to top of 4 ch to
join – 48 (50, 50, 48, 48, 50, 50,
50, 50) V-sts.
Place markers (PM) for increase
points as folls: PM1 in sp (see
Special Stitches) after 8 (9, 10,
10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11) V-sts, 16
(16, 16, 15, 14, 15, 15, 15, 14)
V-sts, 32 (34, 35, 34, 34, 35, 36,
36, 36) V-sts and 40 (41, 41, 39,
38, 40, 40, 40, 39) V-sts.
Rnd 1: 4ch, 1tr in sp between
first and last V-st of rnd, [1V-st
in each sp to next PM, 2V-sts
in marked sp, move PM to sp
between these two V-sts] four
times, 1V-st in each sp to end,
sl st to join, do not turn – 52 (54,
54, 52, 52, 54, 54, 54, 54) V-sts.
Rep Rnd 1 a further nine times
– 88 (90, 90, 88, 88, 90, 90, 90,
90) V-sts.
Sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL,
4XL & 5XL only
Cont increasing working in V-st
Patt as folls:
Rnd 1: 3ch, 2tr in sp between
first and last V-st of rnd (counts
as first Shell), [1Shell (see
Special Stitches) in each sp to
PM, 2Shells in marked sp, move
PM to sp between these two
Shells] four times, 1Shell in each
sp to end, sl st to join, do not
turn – - (94, 94, 92, 92, 94, 94,
94, 94) Shells.
Rep Rnd 1 a further - (0, 3, 5,
8, 11, 13, 15, 18) more times
working between Shells – - (94,
106, 112, 124, 138, 146, 154,
166) Shells.
All sizes
Cont in Shell patt as folls:
Rnd 1: 3ch, 2tr in sp between
first and last Shell of rnd, 1Shell
in each sp to end, sl st to join,
do not turn – 88 (94, 106, 112,
124, 138, 146, 154, 166) Shells.
Move marker up whilst working
foll rnd reps alternating on
each rnd placing marker in the
Shell and on next rnd in sp over
previously marked Shell in order
to keep marker in line with
previous increases.
Rep Rnd 1, moving markers up
as described, a total of nine
(nine, nine, seven, seven, five,
five, three, three) times. At this
point markers should be in a
shell and not in a sp.
Do not fasten off.
DIVIDE FOR BODY &
SLEEVES
* Using a small amount of yarn
from other end of ball (or from
another skein), attach yarn in
centre tr of first marked Shell,
9 (9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 15, 18, 18)
ch, sl st to centre st of second
marked Shell, fasten off.
Rep from * between third and
fourth markers.
Continue around body:
Next Rnd: 3ch, 2tr in sp
between first and last Shell of
rnd, *1Shell in each sp to ch-sp,
38 (39, 41, 42, 44, 45, 46, 47, 49)cm
15 (15½, 16¼, 16½, 17½, 18, 18½, 19, 19½)in
15½ (15½, 16½, 16½, 17½, 18, 18½, 19, 19½)in
38 (39, 41, 42, 44, 45, 46, 47, 49)cm
83 (91, 103, 111, 123, 131, 143, 151, 163)cm
33 (36½, 41, 44½, 49, 52½, 57, 60½, 65)in
miss 1ch, [1Shell in next ch, miss Row 1: 3ch, 2tr in sp between sl st to join, do not turn – 31 (31,
2 ch] to last 2 ch, 1Shell in next first and last Shell of rnd, 1Shell 34, 37, 40, 46, 49, 54, 57) tr.
ch, miss last ch; rep from * once in each sp to end, sl st to join, Rnd 2: 3ch, tr around, sl st
more, 1Shell in each sp to end, sl do not turn. to join.
st to join, do not turn. 58 (64, 72, Row 2: Sl st across Shell to Fasten off.
78, 86, 92, 100, 106, 114) Shells. next sp, 3ch, 2tr in sp between
Rnds 1–10: 3ch, 2tr in sp first and last Shell of Rnd, PICOT NECK EDGING
between first and last Shell of 1Shell in each sp up to and With RS facing, reattach yarn
rnd, 1Shell in each sp to end, including joining sp, sl st to at back of neck, 1ch, [3dc, 2ch,
sl st to join, do not turn. join, do not turn. sl st to top of last dc made]
Rnds 11–16: (4ch, 1tr) (counts Rep Rnds 1 & 2 a further around, sl st to join, fasten off.
as first V-st) in sp between first ten times.
and last shell of rnd, 1Shell in FINISHING
next sp, [1V-st in next sp, 1Shell CUFF Weave in ends.
in next sp] to end, sl st to join, Rnd 1: 3ch, working across Wash and dry
do not turn. each tr of each Shell work tr2tog according to ball band END
Rnds 17–22: 3ch, 1tr in sp around, 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 1)tr, recommendations.
between first and last sts of rnd,
1V-st in each sp to end, sl st to
join, do not turn.
Picot Edging: *4ch, sl st in
second ch from hook, 2ch, sl st
in next sp between V-sts; rep
from * around. Fasten off.
SLEEVES
With RS facing, attach yarn at
centre of underarm ch (ie where
Shell from body sits), (3ch, 2tr)
in same centre ch, 1Shell in each
ch where a body Shell is worked
to sleeve sts, 1Shell in each sp
between Shells around sleeve,
1Shell in each ch where a body
Shell is worked around, sl st to
join, do not turn – 21 (21, 23,
25, 27, 31, 33, 36, 38) Shells.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 33
 la rg est
of the n d ie
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Yarn

                                
                        
     
           

  
         
             
      
  
  
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 Make itYOUR PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS START HERE

BEGINNER EASY INTERMEDIATE ADVANCED

Igam W rap Pu rpo s e fu l H ardw o rkin g Artis an Tu n ic W o rkw e ar Tyn e W rap

Fay Dashper-Hughes Jacke t Cardigan Cassie Ward Ju m pe r Anna Nikipirowicz
Page 36 Jacinta Bowie Claire Montgomerie Page 46 Sandra Gutierrez Page 56
Page 40 Page 43 Page 50

Ro m an tic Utility Te xtu re d Tran s fe re n ce Be e Tidy

Be an ie Backpack H e adban d Sh aw l W all H an gin g
Camilla Baroe Zoe Curtis Anna Nikipirowicz Helda Panagary Sarah-Jane Hicks
Page 58 Page 62 Page 64 Page 66 Page 68

Ruffled As trakh an Radar Lo ve Tickin g W ris t Je w e l D e s k Po ppy

Fe ath e rs Bo ls te r Blan ke t W arm e rs Tidy Se t th e Pixie
Rosina Northcott Jane Czaja Annelies Baes Rosina Northcott Fay Dashper-Hughes Amour Fou
Page 70 Page 73 Page 76 Page 79 Page 83 Page 89

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 35
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

MATERIALS
● Nellie & Eve 4ply BFL/Masham,
75% British Bluefaced
Leicester wool/25% Mid
Brown Masham wool,
100g/400m/437yds
Shade: Juniper x 2 (3, 3, 3,
4, 4, 5) skeins
● 4mm & 4.5mm hooks
● Four stitch markers
● Five (five, six, six, seven, seven,
eight) buttons, 2.5cm/1in

YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can make this wrap with any
4ply yarn of the same weight and
ideally the same blend. If using a
different blend, the tension may
vary and it is possible there will
not be enough yarn.

TENSION
Work 10 sts and 12 rows to
measure 5.5 x 7cm/2¼ x 2¾in
unblocked using 4mm hook, or
size required to obtain tension.

Work 10 sts and 12 rows to

measure 6 x 7.25cm2¼ x 2¾in
blocked using 4mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.

Work 17 sts and 13.25 rows

to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in
blocked using 4mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.

It is essential to work to the correct

tension to avoid the risk of running
out of yarn in the final rows.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Fay combines her love of proper
woolly wool and sustainability in
her designs and podcast. Find her
on Instagram @faydhdesigns and
@crochet_circle_podcast.

MEASUREMENTS
Blocked width: 106 (112, 118,
124, 130, 142, 154)cm/41¾ (44,
46½, 48¾, 51¼, 56, 70½)in.
Blocked depth: 37.5 (37.5, 45,

Igam Wrap 45, 52, 52, 53.25)cm/14¾ (14¾,

BY FAY DASHPER-HUGHES
This wrap can be worn as a chunky cowl, a shawl and a
poncho! Its understated zig-zag pattern means it can be
worn with most outfits and is effortlessly elegant.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this plant-dyed yarn from
www.nellieandeve.com
17¾, 17¾, 20½, 20½, 21)in.
If you have a larger/smaller bust,
you may also want to check your
yoke measurement. This is the
circumference around the arms,
back and top of bust where the
arm crease is.
Sizes include approximately
15cm/6in of positive ease.

36 Inside Crochet
SPECIAL STITCHES
Starting htr: Remove hook and
replace from other side. Extend
loop a little and work 1dc. Insert
hook through left leg of dc just
made (ie leg at front of work, not
through top of st), yrh and pull
up a loop, yrh, pull through both
rem loops. This is an alternative
to using a turning chain and
always counts as first st.
Herringbone htr (HBhtr): yrh,
insert hook in next st, yrh, pull
up a loop (three loops on hook),
pull first loop on hook through
second loop on hook, yrh and
pull through rem two loops.
Raised treble front (rtrf): Yrh,
insert hook from front to back to
front again around post of next st,
yrh and pull up a loop and extend
a little, yrh and pull through
two loops on hook, yrh and pull
through final two loops.
Starting dc: Remove hook and
replace from other side. Extend
loop a little and work 1dc.
Waistcoat st (W-st): Work in dc
inserting hook into vertical post
of st on front of work (rather than
under horizontal bars at top of st
as for a normal dc).
PATTERN NOTES
Herringbone half treble stitch
creates a flattened fabric that
allows yarn to go further and
helps to create beautiful drape.
Starting htr/dc give a neat edge
to the wrap with more elasticity
than a chain.
Sewing small thin buttons to WS
at same time as main buttons will
make the fastening more durable.
WRAP
START With 4.5mm hook,
172 (182, 192, 202,
212, 232, 252)ch.
Change to 4mm hook.
Set-up Row: 1HBhtr (see Special
Stitches) in third ch from hook,
pm (move up at beg of every
rnd), 1HBhtr in each ch to end,
turn – 170 (180, 190, 200, 210,
230, 250) sts.
Row 1: 1Starting htr (see
Special Stitches) (counts as 1 st
here and throughout), pm (move
up at beg of every rnd), 1HBhtr in
each st to end, turn.
Row 2: 1Starting htr, 2HBhtr,
*1rtrf (see Special Stitches), 9HBhtr
106 (112, 118, 124, 130, 142, 154)cm
41¾ (44, 46½, 48¾, 51¼, 56, 70½)in
14¾ (14¾, 17¾, 17¾, 20½, 20½, 21)in
37.5 (37.5, 45, 45, 52, 52, 53.25)cm
C A
B
Join A to B for Shawl and Poncho
Join A to C for Cowl
Twist and join A to C for twisted Cowl
(be sure not to work first HBhtr in Sizes XS & S only 3 sts] four times, 1W-st, (1dc,
st that rtrf is in front of here and Row 1: (RS) 1Starting dc in ch-sp 1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp, pm in ch-sp,
throughout); rep from * to last 7 just made, pm to show beg of 3ch, miss 3 sts, [10W-st, 3ch,
sts, 1rtrf, 6HBhtr, turn (Figs 1 & 2). row, work in W-st (see Special miss 3 sts] four times, W-st to
Row 3: Rep Row 1. Stitches) to ch-sp, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) next ch-sp, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in
Row 4: 1Starting htr, 3HBhtr, in ch-sp, pm in ch-sp, W-st to ch-sp, pm in ch-sp, W-st to pm,
[1rtrf, 9HBhtr] to last 6 sts, 1rtrf, 55 sts before next ch-sp, 3 sl st, 1dc in last st, turn – 296 (306) sts
5HBhtr, turn. [10W-st, 3sl st] four times, (1dc, (1 starting dc, 258 (268) W-sts,
Row 5: Rep Row 1. 1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp, pm in ch-sp, 5 dc, 30 ch, 2 ch).
Row 6: 1Starting htr, 4HBhtr, 3sl st, [10W-st, 3sl st] four times,
[1rtrf, 9HBhtr] to last 5 sts from, 2W-st, 1dc in ch-sp, turn – 292 Sizes M & L only
1rtrf, 4HBhtr, turn. (302) sts (1 starting dc, 254 (264) Row 1: (RS) 1Starting dc in ch-sp
Row 7: Rep Row 1. W-sts, 5 dc, 30 sl st, 2 ch). just made, pm to show beg of
Row 8: 1Starting htr, 5HBhtr, Row 2: (WS) 1Starting dc, pm row, work in W-st to ch-sp, (1dc,
[1rtrf, 9HBhtr] to last 4 sts, 1rtrf, to show beg of row, 2W-st, 3ch, 1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp, pm in ch-sp,
3HBhtr, turn. miss 3 sts, [10W-wt, 3ch, miss W-st to 68 sts before next ch-sp,
Row 9: Rep Row 1.
Row 10: Rep Row 6.
Row 11: Rep Row 1.
Row 12: Rep Row 4.
Rep Rows 1–12, three (three, four,
four, five, five, six) more times.
Rep Rows 1–8 once more.
Cont to work on RS, work one
full rnd of dc to set up for border
as folls (Fig 3):
Set-up Rnd: 1dc in each of
57 (57, 69, 69, 81, 81, 93) rows
end down short side of wrap,
pm in first dc, 1ch, 1dc in each
starting ch along long side of
wrap, 1ch, pm in ch-sp, 1dc in
each row end up second short
side of wrap, 1ch, pm in ch-sp,
1dc in each starting ch down
long side of wrap, 1ch, pm in
ch-sp, sl st to first st to join
– 454 (474, 518, 538, 582, 622,
686)dc, 4 ch.
BUTTON BANDS
Cont in rows working one short
side, a long side then remaining
short side (counts as working
one row).
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 37
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions
FIG 1
FIG 3
3sl st, [10W-st, 3sl st] five times,
(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp, pm in
ch-sp, 3sl st, [10 W-st, 3sl st] five
times, 1W-st, 1dc in ch-sp, turn
– 336 (346) sts (1 starting dc, 292
(302) W-sts, 5 dc, 36 sl st, 2 ch).
Row 2: (WS) 1 Starting dc, pm
to show beg of row, 1W-st, 3ch,
miss 3 sts, [10 W-st, 3ch, miss
3 sts] five times, 1W-st, (1dc, 1ch,
1dc) in ch-sp, pm in ch-sp, 3ch,
miss 3 sts, [10W-st, 3ch, miss
3 sts] five times, W-st to next
ch-sp, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp,
pm in ch-sp, W-st to pm, 1dc
in last st, turn – 340 (350) sts
(1 starting dc, 296 (306) W-sts,
5 dc, 36 ch, 2 ch).
Sizes XL & 2XL/3XL only
Row 1: (RS) 1Starting dc in ch-sp
just made, pm to show beg of
row, work in W-st (see Special
Stitches) to ch-sp, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in
ch-sp, pm in ch-sp, W-st to 81 sts
before next ch-sp, 3sl st, [10 W-st,
3sl st] six times, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in
ch-sp, pm in ch-sp, 3sl st, [10W-st,
XS
TO FIT BUST 75
30
TO FIT YOKE 91
36¼
38 Inside Crochet
FIG 2
FIG 4
3sl st] six times, 1dc in ch-sp, turn
– 380 (400) sts (1 starting dc, 330
(350) W-sts, 5 dc, 42 sl st, 2 ch).
Row 2: (WS) 1Starting dc, pm
to show beg of row, 3ch, miss
3 sts, [10W-st, 3ch, miss 3 sts]
six times, 1W-st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc)
in ch-sp, pm in ch-sp, 3ch, miss
3 sts, [10W-st, 3ch, miss 3 sts] six
times, W-st to next ch-sp, (1dc,
1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp, pm in ch-sp,
W-st to pm, 1dc in last st, turn –
384 (404) sts (1 starting dc, 334
(354) W-sts, 5 dc, 42 ch, 2 ch).
Size 4XL/5XL only
Row 1: (RS) 1Starting dc in ch-sp
just made, pm to show beg of
row, work in W-st (see Special
Stitches) to ch-sp, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc)
in ch-sp, pm in ch-sp, W-st to
93 sts before next ch-sp, 3sl st,
[10W-st, 3sl st] three times, 9W-
st, 3sl st, [10W-st, 3sl st] three
times, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp,
pm in ch-sp, 3sl st, [10W-st,
3sl st] three times, 9W-st, 3sl st,
[10W-st, 3sl st] three times, 1dc
S M
80–85 90–95
32–34 36–38
94–97 100–104
37½–39 40–41½
W-st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp, pm
in ch-sp, 3ch, miss 3 sts, [10W-st,
3ch, miss 3 sts] three times, 9W-st,
3ch, miss 3 sts, [10W-st, 3ch, miss
3 sts] three times, W-st to next
ch-sp, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp, pm
in ch-sp, W-st to pm, 1dc in last
st, turn – 448 sts (1 starting dc,
392W-st, 5 dc, 48 ch, 2 ch).
All sizes
Row 3: 1Starting dc, pm to show
beg of row, W-st to ch-sp, (1dc,
1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp, pm in ch-sp,
W-st in all dc and W-sts and 1dc
in each ch to marked ch-sp, (1dc,
1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp, pm in ch-sp,
W-st in all dc and W-sts and 1dc
in all ch to last pm, 1dc in last st,
turn – 300 (310, 344, 354, 388,
408, 452) sts.
Row 4: 1Starting dc, W-st to
ch-sp, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp,
remove marker, W-st to ch-sp,
(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in ch-sp, remove
marker, W-st to pm, 1dc in last
st, cut yarn and fasten off – 304
(314, 348, 358, 392, 412, 456) sts.
in ch-sp, turn – 444 sts (1 starting
dc, 388W-st, 5 dc, 48 sl st, 2 ch). FINISHING
Row 2: (WS) 1Starting dc, pm Weave in ends. Using schematic
to show beg of row, 3ch, miss 3 as a guide, sew on buttons to RS,
sts, [10W-st, 3ch, miss 3 sts] three sewing smaller buttons
times, 9W-st, 3ch, miss 3 sts, at the back of larger END
[10W-st, 3ch, miss 3 sts] 3 times, 1 buttons if desired (Fig 4).
L XL 2XL/3XL 4XL/5XL
100 105–115 120–135 140–150 cm
40 42–46 48–54 56–60 in
107 110–117 120–130 133–140 cm
43 44–46¾ 48–52 53½–56 in
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

MATERIALS first st, [1ch, miss 1 st, 1BS in

● iinouiio DK,
97% wool/3% other fibres,
50g/115m/126yds
Shade: Daybreak in Dewsbury
x 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) balls
● 4mm & 5mm hooks
● Yarn needle
● Stitch markers
YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any DK recycled
yarn with the same tension to
achieve a similar effect.
TENSION
Work 6.5 sets of [1BS, 1ch] and
10 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in using 5mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Jacinta has worked in crochet,
knitting and fashion design.
Visit her website at
www.jacintabowie.com and
find her on Instagram
@jacintabowiedesigns.
SPECIAL STITCHES
Bean stitch (BS): Insert hook
in next ch-sp (or st), yrh and
draw up a loop, (yrh and insert
in same stitch, yrh and pull
through) twice, (6 loops on
hook), make sure loops aren’t
next st] to last st, 1ch, miss last
st, sl st to first ch, turn.
Rnd 2: 1ch, [1BS in next ch-sp,
1ch] to end, sl st to first ch, turn.
Rnds 3–6: As Row 2.
Inc Rnd: 1ch, (1BS, 1ch) twice
in first ch-sp, [1BS in next ch-sp,
1ch] to last ch-sp, (1BS, 1ch)
twice in last ch-sp, sl st to 1ch
at beg of rnd, turn – 42 (42, 46,
46,50) sts.
Work six rnds in patt.
Work Inc Rnd – 46 (46, 50, 50,
54) sts.
Rep last seven rnds three more
times – 58 (58, 62, 62, 66) sts.
Cont in patt without shaping
until work meas 45cm/17¾in.
Break yarn and fasten off turning
at end of last rnd ready to work
shaping as folls.
SHAPE SLEEVE HEAD
Missing 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) BS, rejoin
yarn, 1ch.
Row 1: [1BS in next ch-sp, 1ch]
23 times, turn leaving last 3 (3,
4, 4, 5) BS unworked – 46 sts.
Row 2: Sl st across first set of
sts, [1BS in next ch-sp, 1ch]
21 times, turn.
Row 3: Sl st across first set of
sts, [1BS in next ch-sp, 1ch]
19 times, turn.
Row 4: Sl st across first set of

Pu rpo s e fu l too tight, yrh and pull through

all 6 loops.
sts, [1BS in next ch-sp, 1ch]
17 times, turn.

Jacke t
BY JACINTA BOWIE
A durable modern jacket with
appliquéd pockets and
elbow patches.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this eco-friendly yarn from
www.iinouiio.com
START
SLEEVES
Make two
CUFF
Using 5mm hook 39 (39, 43,
43, 47)ch.
Row 1: 1tr in third ch from
hook, and in each ch to end,
turn – 38 (38, 42, 42, 46) sts.
Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr here
and throughout), [1Rtrf, 1Rtrb]
18 (18, 20, 20, 22) times, 1tr in
top of 3ch, turn.
Rep Row 2 twice more.
Fasten off.
Fold cuff in half and rejoin yarn
at centre point of fold, dc to end
of first side of cuff then across
from edge of second side of cuff
back to first st, sl st in first dc,
turn – 38 (38, 42, 42, 46) sts.
Row 5: Sl st across first set of
sts, [1BS in next ch-sp, 1ch]
15 times, turn.
Row 6: Sl st across first set of
sts, [1BS in next ch-sp, 1ch]
13 times, turn.
Row 7: Sl st across first set of
sts, [1BS in next ch-sp, 1ch]
11 times, turn.
Row 8: Sl st across first set of
sts, [1BS in next ch-sp, 1ch] nine
times, turn.
Sizes L, XL & XXL only
Row 9: Sl st across first set of
sts, [1BS in next ch-sp, 1ch]
seven times, turn.
Sizes XL & XXL only
Row 10: Sl st across first set of
sts, [1BS in next ch-sp, 1ch] five
times, turn.

Cont to work main sleeve in Size XXL only

rnds, turning at end of each rnd. Row 11: Sl st across first set of
Rnd 1: 1ch (does not count as sts, [1BS in next ch-sp, 1ch] three
st), 1BS (see Special Stitches) in times, turn. Fasten off.

40 Inside Crochet
FRONT HEM CUFFS
Make two
Using 5mm hook, 29 (33, 37,
41, 43)ch.
Row 1: 1tr in third ch from
hook, 1tr in each ch to end, turn
– 28 (32, 36, 40, 42)tr.
Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr here
and throughout), [1Rtrf, 1Rtrb]
13 [15, 17, 19, 20] times, 1tr in
top of 3ch, turn.
Rep last row twice more.
Fasten off.
BACK HEM CUFF
Make one
Using 5mm hook 61 (69, 77,
85, 93)ch.
Row 1: 1tr in third ch from
hook, 1tr in each ch to end, turn
– 60 (68, 76, 84, 92)tr.
Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr here
and throughout), [1Rtrf, 1Rtrb]
29 (33, 37, 41, 45) times, 1tr in
top of 3ch, turn.
Rep last row twice more.
Fasten off.
BODY
Place first side hem cuff, back
hem cuff then second side hem
cuff next to each other with
fasten off end at same side.
Starting at first side at fasten off
point, rejoin yarn.
Work in dc along first hem cuff,
back hem cuff and second side
hem cuff – 116 (132, 148, 164,
176)dc.
Row 1: 2ch (counts as first st),
1BS in next st, [1ch, miss 1 st, 1BS
in next st] to end, 2ch, turn.
Row 2: [1BS in 1ch-sp, 1ch] to
end, 1ch, turn.
Rep Row 2 until work measures
31cm/12¼in.
RIGHT FRONT
Row 1: (Pm at beg of row) [1ch,
1BS in next ch-sp] 13 (14, 15, 16,
17) times, 1ch, turn.
Row 2: Sl st across first set of sts
(ie 1BS and 1ch-sp), work 12 (13,
14, 15, 16) sets of sts, turn.
Row 3: Patt to end.
Row 4: Patt to end.
Row 5: Sl st across first set of sts,
patt to end – 11 (12, 13, 14, 15)
sets of sts.
Rows 6–10: Patt to end.
Rep last six rows once (once,
once, once, twice) more – 10 (11,
12, 13, 13) sets of sts.
Next Row: Sl st across first set
of sts, patt to end – 9 (10, 11, 12,
12) sets of sts.
Work three (three, five, five, one)
row(s) more ending at side edge
of work.
Next Row: [1ch, 1BS in next
ch-sp] six (six, seven, seven,
seven) times, 1ch, turn, leaving
last three (four, four, five, five)
sets of sts unworked.
Next Row: Sl st across first 3 sets
of sts, [1ch, BS in next ch-sp] three
(three, four, four, four) times.
Fasten off.
LEFT FRONT
Row 1: Count in 13 (14, 15, 16,
17) sets of sts, rejoin yarn and
patt to end, turn.
Row 2: Work 12 (13, 14, 15, 16)
sets of sts, turn – 12 (13, 14, 15,
16) sets of sts.
Row 3: Patt to end.
Row 4: Patt to end.
Row 5: Work 11 (12, 13, 14, 15)
sets of sts, turn – 11 (12, 13, 14,
15) sets of sts.
Rows 6–10: Patt to end.
Row 11: Work 10 (11, 12, 13, 14)
sets of sts, turn.
Rows 12–16: Patt to end.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 41
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

Size XXL only
Row 17: Work - (-, -, -, 13) sets
of sts, turn – 10 (11, 12, 13, 13)
sets of sts.
Rows 18–21: Patt to end.
All sizes
Next Row: Work 9 (10, 11, 12,
12) sets of sts, turn – 9 (10, 11,
12, 12) sets of sts.
Work three (three, five, five, one)
row(s) more ending at side edge
of work.
SHAPE SHOULDER
Next Row: Sl st across first three
(four, four, five, five) sets of sts,
TO FIT BUST
work six (six, seven, seven, seven)
sets of sts, turn – six (six, seven,
seven, seven) sets of sts.
Next Row: [1ch, 1BS in next ch-
sp] three (three, four, four, four)
times leaving last three sets of
sts unworked. Fasten off.
BACK
Count in two (four, six, eight,
eight) sets of sts from Right Front
rejoin yarn, 1ch, work 28 (30, 32,
34, 38) sets of sts, 1ch, turn.
Next Row: Sl st across one set of
sts, work 26 (28, 30, 32, 36) sets
of sts, 1ch, turn.
Cont on these sts in patt until
S M L XL
81–86 91–97 102–107
32½–34½ 36½–39 41–43
armhole measures same as Fronts hook, 1dc in each of next 2 ch,
to shoulder shaping. 4dc in last ch, 2dc back along
opposite side of ch, sl st to first
SHAPE SHOULDERS dc – 12dc.
Next Row: Sl st across first three Rnd 2: Dc around.
(four, four, five, five) sets of sts, Rnd 3: [2dc in next st] four
work 20 (20, 22, 22, 26) sets of times, 2dc, [2dc in next st]
sts, turn. four times, 2dc, sl st to first dc
Next Row: Sl st across three – 20dc.
(four, four, five, five) sets of sts, Rnd 4: [2dc in next st] eight
work 14 (14, 14, 14, 18) sets times, 2dc, [2dc in next st]
of sts. Fasten off. eight times, 2dc, sl st to first dc
– 36dc.
PATCH Rnd 5: 3ch, tr to end, sl st to top
Make two of 3ch.
Using 4mm hook, 6ch. Rnd 6: 4dc, [8dc in next st],
Rnd 1: 4dc in second ch from 10dc, [8dc in next st], 6dc, sl st
to first dc – 52dc.
Rnd 7: 3ch, tr to end, sl st to top
XXL of 3ch to close rnd.
Rnd 8: [2dc, 2dc in next st]
112–117 120–125 cm seventeen times, 1dc, sl st to beg
45–47 48–50 cm of rnd – 69 sts. Fasten off.

ACTUAL BUST 92 104 116 129 141 cm

TRIM
36¾ 41½ 46½ 51½ 56½ in Using 4mm hook starting at
SLEEVE SEAM 45 45 45 45 45 cm bottom of Right Front hem work
8dc along hem, 1dc along each
18 18 18 18 18 in row and 2dc across each set
LENGTH 55 55 57 57 59 cm of sts along back neck, then
1dc along each row to bottom
22 22 22¾ 22¾ 23½ in
hem, 7dc along hem.

42 Inside Crochet
Row 2: 3ch, 7tr, [2tr in next
dc, 1tr in next 1dc] to last 8
sts, 8tr, turn.
Row 3: (Rib pattern) 3ch
(counts as first st here and
throughout), [1Rtrf, 1Rtrb] to
marker, 2ch, miss 2 sts, [1Rtrf,
1Rtrb] to last st, 1tr in 3 ch, turn.
Row 4: Work in rib patt
working 2tr in 2ch-sp for
button hole, cont in patt to end
of row, turn.
Rows 5 & 6: 3ch, [1Rtrf, 1Rtrb]
to last st, 1tr in 3 ch, turn.
POCKETS
Using 5mm hook, 20ch.
Row 1: 1tr in third ch from
hook, 1tr in each ch to end,
turn – 18tr.
Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr here
and throughout), [1Rtrf, 1Rtrb]
eight times, 1tr in 3ch, turn.
Rep last row twice more.
Row 1: 1ch, 1BS in first st, [1ch,
miss 1 st, 1BS in next st] to end,
1ch, turn – nine sets of sts.
Row 2: [1ch, 1BS in 1ch-sp] to
end, 1ch, turn.
Rows 3–8: As Row 2.
Row 9: Sl st across first set of sts,
patt to end – eight sets of sts.
Row 10: As Row 9 – seven sets
of sts. Fasten off.
Rejoin yarn at side of trim, 8dc
along trim, 2dc in each row
end, 1 st in each st at bottom
of pocket, 2dc in each row end
to trim, 8dc along edge of trim.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Put arm into one sleeve and
position elbow patches where
it sits on the elbow.
Tack in place.
Match second sleeve as a
mirror image of first sleeve.
Blanket stitch around patch to
join to sleeve.
Place pockets at an angle on
fronts as shown in photo, one
row above hem trim and two
sets of sts in from front trim.
Stab stitch in place with tacking
thread. Blanket stitch to fronts
around side and bottom edges.
Weave in all ends.
Set sleeves in armholes
making sure patches are to
the back of garment.
Sew button to
correspond with END
buttonhole.
H ardw o rking
Wrap
Card igan
BY CLAIRE MONTGOMERIE
An easy to wear wrap cardigan
that looks great for work or play.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 43
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions
MATERIALS
● CaMaRose Okologisk
Hverdagsuld, 100% wool,
50g/150m/164yds
Shade: Bordeaux 44 x 10 (11,
12, 13, 13, 15, 16) balls
● 4mm hook
YARN ALTERNATIVES
Any sport weight to light DK
weight wool will substitute here.
TENSION
Work 15 sts and 13 rows in
pattern to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in using 4mm hook or size
required to obtain correct tension.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Claire Montgomerie is a textiles
teacher and designer specialising
in knit and crochet. Find out
more at www.montyknits.
blogspot.com.
PATTERN NOTES
To make the body longer or
shorter, either work more or
fewer rows before beginning
the neck decreases or once the
neck decreases have finished
– but before the shoulder
decreases begin.
For longer or shorter sleeves,
work more or fewer rows after
the increases.
This yarn blooms and drapes
beautifully once washed/blocked.
Make sure to block your sample
44 Inside Crochet
to ensure you obtain the correct
tension, as the fabric behaves
very differently once blocked.
Sleeve increases
Increase 1 st at each end of row
as folls:
If next row begins with 1ch,
1dc and ends with 1dc, work
this inc row:
1ch, (1dc, 1tr) in first dc, patt
to last dc, (1tr, 1dc) in last dc.
If next row begins with 3ch,
1dc and ends with 1tr work
this inc row:
(3ch, 1dc) in first st, patt to last
tr, (1dc, 1tr) in last tr.
CARDIGAN
START BACK
WELT
With 4mm hook, 76 (84, 92, 100,
108, 116, 124)ch.
Row 1: 1dc in second ch from
hook and in each ch across, turn
– 75 (83, 91, 99, 107, 115, 123)dc.
Rows 2–6: 1ch (does not count
as a st here and throughout), dc
to end, turn.
MAIN BODY
Row 7: 1ch, [1dc, 1tr] to last st,
1dc, turn – 75 (83, 91, 99, 107,
115, 123) sts.
Row 8: 3ch (counts as 1tr here
and throughout), [1dc in next tr,
1tr in next dc] to end, turn.
Row 9: 1ch, [1dc in next tr, 1tr
in next dc] to last st, 1dc in last
tr, turn.
2 dc
Last two rows form pattern and
are repeated.
Cont in patt until Back measures
approximately 52 (54, 55, 56, 57,
58, 59)cm/20½ (21¼, 21½, 22,
22½, 22¾, 23¼)in.
SHAPE SHOULDERS
Row 1: Sl st across first 4 (5, 5, 6,
6, 7, 7) sts, patt to last 4 (5, 5, 6,
6, 7, 7) sts, turn, leaving rem sts
unworked – 67 (73, 81, 87, 95,
101, 109) sts.
Row 2: As Row 1 – 59 (63, 71,
75, 83, 87, 95) sts.
Row 3: Sl st across first 4 (4, 5, 5,
6, 6, 7) sts, patt to last 4 (4, 5, 5,
6, 6, 7) sts, turn, leaving rem sts
unworked – 51 (55, 61, 65, 71,
75, 81) sts.
Row 4: As Row 3 – 43 (47, 51,
55, 59, 63, 67) sts.
SHAPE NECK
Row 5: Sl st across 4 (4, 5, 5, 6,
6, 7) sts, patt across 3 (4, 4, 5,
5, 6, 6) sts, fasten off yarn.
Rejoin yarn to opposite shoulder,
7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts in
from end of shoulder, patt
across 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts.
Fasten off yarn.
ch
1 tr
pattern repeat
RIGHT FRONT
WELT
With 4mm hook, make 48 (52,
56, 60, 66, 72, 78)ch.
Row 1: (RS) 1dc in second ch from
hook and in each ch across, turn
– 47 (51, 55, 59, 65, 71, 77) dc.
Work five further rows straight
in dc on these sts.
MAIN BODY
Work in patt as folls
Set-up Row: (RS) 1ch (does not
count as a st), [1dc in next st, 1tr
in next st] to last st, 1dc, turn
– 47 (51, 55, 59, 65, 71, 77) sts.
Row 1: (WS) 3ch (counts as 1tr
here and throughout), [1dc in next
tr, 1tr in next dc] to end, turn.
Row 2: (RS) 1ch, [1dc in next tr,
1tr in next dc] to last tr, 1dc, turn.
Last two rows form pattern and
are repeated.
Cont in patt until work measures
approx 15cm/6in, ending with
a WS row.
SHAPE FRONT SLOPE
Next Row: (RS) 1ch, 1dc, tr2tog,
[1tr, 1dc] to end, turn – 46 (50,
54, 58, 64, 70, 76) sts.
Next Row: 3ch (counts as 1tr
 22 (20, 23, 23½, 24, 24½, 24¾)in st, turn. Fasten off.

Stitch or work a dc join to attach

56 (58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63)cm

Front Tie to bottom of Right Front

37 (38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43)cm
14 (15, 15¼, 15¾, 16¼, 16½, 17)in
neckline shaping at edge.
Pin a Front Tie 15cm/6in up from
bottom edge of left side seam so
that it will be trapped inside seam
and will come out at RS of work
once seams are joined.

100 (110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160)cm
39½ (43½, 47½, 51, 55, 59, 63)in
here and throughout), [1dc in next
tr, 1tr in next dc] to last 2 sts, 1dc
in tr2tog, 1tr in last st, turn.
Rep these two rows until 23 (26,
29, 32, 35, 38, 41) sts rem.
Cont without shaping until
work measures same as Back to
shoulder shaping, approximately
52 (54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59)cm/
20½ (21¼, 21½, 22, 22½, 22¾,
23¼)in, ending with a RS Row.
SHAPE SHOULDER
Row 1: (WS) Sl st across first 4 (5,
5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts, patt to end, turn
– 19 (21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34) sts.
Row 2: Patt to last 4 (5, 5, 6, 6,
7, 7) sts, turn, leaving rem sts
unworked – 15 (16, 19, 20, 23,
24, 27) sts.
Row 3: Sl st across first 4 (4, 5,
5, 6, 6, 7) sts, patt to end, turn
– 11 (12, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20) sts.
Row 4: Patt to last 4 (4, 5, 5, 6,
6, 7) sts, turn, leaving rem sts
unworked – 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12,
13) sts.
Row 5: Sl st across 4 (4, 5, 5, 6,
6, 7) sts, patt to end – 3 (4, 4, 5,
5, 6, 6) sts.
Fasten off yarn.
LEFT FRONT
Work as for Right Front.
SLEEVES
CUFF
With 4mm hook, make 34 (34,
36, 38, 40, 42, 44)ch.
Row 1: 1dc in second ch from
hook and in each ch across
– 33 (33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43)dc.
Work five further rows straight in
dc on these sts.
Work in patt as folls:
Row 1: 1ch (does not count as st
here and throughout), [1dc, 1tr]
to last st, 1dc, turn.
Row 2: 3ch (counts as first tr),
[1dc, 1tr] to end, turn.
These two rows form pattern and
are repeated.
Work another two rows in patt.
SHAPE SLEEVES
Working increases as described
in Pattern Notes, inc 1 st at each
end of next and every foll fourth
(third, third, third, third, third,
third) row until there are 51 (55,
59, 63, 67, 71, 73) sts.
Cont in patt without shaping until
Sleeve measures approximately
37 (38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43)cm/
14½ (15, 15¼, 15¾, 16¼, 16½,
17)in or desired arm length.
Fasten off yarn.
FINISHING
Lay both Fronts out on top
of Back, so that the neckline
overlaps. Join shoulder seams.
NECK EDGING
With 4mm hook, rejoin yarn to
bottom edge of Right Front.
Row 1: Work in dc evenly around
entire neck edge to neaten
edge, turn.
Rows 2–8: 1ch, 1dc in each st
around, turn.
Fasten off.
FRONT TIES
Make two
Make a chain 50cm/20in long.
Row 1: 1dc in second ch from
hook and in each ch across, turn.
Rows 2–4: 1ch, 1dc in each
INSIDE TIES
Make two
Make a chain 30cm/11¾in long.
Row 1: 1dc in second ch from
hook and in each ch across, turn.
Row 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st.
Fasten off.
Stitch or work a dc join to attach
Inside Tie to bottom of Left Front
neckline shaping at edge.
Pin an Inside Tie 15cm/6in up
from bottom edge of RS seam
so that it will be trapped in side
seam and will come out at WS of
work once seams are joined.
Place marker 20cm/7¾in down
back edge from shoulder seam,
place second marker 20cm/
7¾in down front edge from
shoulder seam.
Fold sleeve in half and place
marker at centre top point of
sleeve. Use these markers to
position sleeve in correct place
for sewing.
Place centre marker of sleeve
at shoulder seam, then either
far edge of sleeve top to meet
markers at either side of body.
Set in sleeves neatly with
mattress stitch or a dc join. Then
sew/crochet up side and sleeve
seam in one long seam on either
side, leaving bottom welt unsewn
on either side.
Weave in all ends and END
block lightly to shape.

XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL
TO FIT BUST 71–76 81–86 91–96 101–106 111–117 122–127 132–137 cm
28–30 32–34 36–38 40–42 44–46 48–50 52–54 in
ACTUAL BUST 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 cm
39½ 43½ 47½ 51 55 59 63 in
LENGTH FROM SHOULDER 56 58 59 60 61 62 63 cm
22 22½ 23 23½ 24 24½ 24¾ in
UNDERARM 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 cm
14½ 15 15½ 15¾ 16 16½ 17 in

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 45
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

MATERIALS
● Willow and Lark Heath,
50% wool/39% acrylic/
11% viscose, 50g/125m/136yds
Shade: Dove 1 x 11 (12, 13,
14) balls
● 3.5mm & 4.5mm hooks

YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any DK yarn that
works to the same tension.

TENSION
Work 17htr and 13 rows to
measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using
4.5mm hook, or size required to
obtain tension.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Cassie is from Cambridgeshire
and lives with her identical twin
boys and little dog Coco.

PATTERN NOTES
Back is longer than front piece.

BACK
START Using 4.5mm hook,
18ch.
Row 1: (WS) 1dc in second ch
from hook and in each ch to end,
turn – 17dc.
* Rows 2–90 (94, 98, 102): 1ch
(does not count as st here and
throughout), dc blo to end, turn.
Fasten off.

Rejoin yarn to top corner of

long edge of welt, evenly
distribute 90 (94, 98, 102)dc
along long edge.
Row 1: 2ch (counts as first htr)
1htr in each dc to end, turn.
Rows 2–27: 2ch, htr to end,
turn.
Row 28: 2ch, htr2tog, htr to last
3 htr, htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 88 (92,
96, 100) htr.
Rows 29–38: 2ch, htr to end,
turn.
Row 39: Rep Row 28 – 86 (90,
94, 98) htr.

Artis an Tu n ic Rows 40–50: 2ch, htr to end,

turn.
BY CASSIE WARD Row 51: Rep Row 28 – 84 (88,
92, 96) htr.
Rows 52–63: 2ch, htr to end,
This oversized tunic is perfect to wear with tights or
turn.
over a crisp white shirt with jeans. Its large pockets are Fasten off. *
perfect for keeping your hands warm and toasty!
SHAPE ARMHOLES
Row 1: (RS) Miss first 5 sts, rejoin
ADD TO THE STASH
yarn in next st, 2ch, htr2tog, htr
Buy this wool-blend yarn from
www.lovecrafts.com to last 8 sts, htr2tog, 1htr, turn
– 72 (76, 80, 84)htr.

46 Inside Crochet
Row 2: 2ch, htr2tog, htr to last
3 htr, htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 70 (74,
78, 82)htr.
Rows 3 & 4: Rep Row 2 – 66 (70,
74, 78)htr.
Rows 5–7: 2ch, htr to end, turn.
Row 8: Rep Row 2 – 64 (68, 72,
76)htr.
Rows 9–14: 2ch, htr to end, turn.
Row 15: Rep Row 2 – 62 (66, 70,
74)htr.
Rows 16–21: 2ch, htr to end,
turn.
SHAPE BACK NECK &
SHOULDERS
Row 1: (WS) 2ch, 10 (12, 14, 16)
htr, htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 13 (15,
17, 19) sts.
Row 2: (RS) 2ch, htr2tog, htr to
end, turn – 12 (14, 16, 18) sts.
Row 3: 2ch, htr to last 3 sts,
htr2tog, 1 htr, turn – 11 (13, 15,
17) sts.
Row 4: Rep Row 2 – 10 (12, 14,
16) sts.
Rows 5–7: 2ch, htr to end, turn.
Fasten off.
Rejoin yarn 14 (16, 18, 20) sts in
from end.
Row 1: 2ch, htr2tog, htr to end,
turn – 13 (15, 17, 19) sts.
Row 2: 2ch, htr to last 3 sts,
htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 12 (14, 16,
18) sts.
Row 3: 2ch, htr2tog, htr to end,
turn – 11 (13, 15, 17) sts.
30½ (30½, 30½, 30½)in
99 (103.5, 108, 113)cm
Row 4: Rep Row 2 – 10 (12, 14,
39 (40¾, 42½, 44½)in
77 (77, 77, 77)cm
16) sts.
Rows 5–7: 2ch, htr to end, turn.
Fasten off.
FRONT
WELT
Using 4.5mm hook, 12ch.
Row 1: 1dc in second ch from
hook and in each ch to end, turn
– 11dc.
Work as for Back from * to *
– 84 (88, 92, 96) sts.
SHAPE ARMHOLES &
V-NECK
Row 1: (RS) Miss first 5 sts, 105 (110, 115, 120)cm
rejoin yarn in next st, 2ch, 41¼ (43¼, 45¼, 47¼)in
htr2tog, 30 (32, 34, 36)htr,
htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 34 (36, 38,
40) sts. Row 3: 2ch, htr2tog, htr to end, Row 5: 2ch, htr to last 3 sts,
Row 2: 2ch, htr2tog, htr to last turn – 31 (33, 35, 37) sts. htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 28 (30, 32,
3 sts, htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 32 (34, Row 4: Rep Row 2 – 29 (31, 33, 34) sts.
36, 38) sts. 35) sts. Row 6: 2ch, htr to end, turn.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 47
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

Row 7: Rep Row 5 – 27 (29, 31,
33) sts.
Row 8: Rep Row 2 – 25 (27, 29,
31) sts.
Row 9: 2ch, htr to end, turn.
Row 10: 2ch, htr2tog, htr to end,
turn – 24 (26, 28, 30) sts.
Row 11: Rep Row 5 – 23 (25, 27,
29) sts.
Row 12: 2ch, htr to end, turn.
Row 13: Rep Row 5 – 22 (24, 26,
28) sts.
Row 14: Rep Row 10 – 21 (23,
25, 27) sts.
Row 15: Rep Row 3 – 20 (22, 24,
26) sts.
Row 16: 2ch, htr2tog, htr to end,
turn – 19 (21, 23, 25) sts.
Row 17: 2ch, htr to last 3 sts,
htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 18 (20, 22,
24) sts.
Rows 18–25: Rep Rows 16 & 17
– 10 (12, 14, 16) sts.
Rows 26–28: 2ch, htr to end,
turn.
htr2tog 1htr, turn – 31 (33, 35,
37) sts.
Row 4: Rep Row 2 – 29 (31, 33,
35) sts.
Row 5: 2ch, htr2tog, htr to end,
turn – 28 (30, 32, 34) sts.
Row 6: 2ch, htr to end, turn.
Row 7: Rep Row 5 – 26 (28, 30,
32) sts.
Row 8: Rep Row 2 – 25 (27, 29,
31) sts.
Row 9: 2ch, htr to end, turn.
Row 10: 2ch, htr to last 3 sts,
htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 24 (26, 28,
30) sts.
Row 11: Rep Row 5 – 23 (25, 27,
29) sts.
Row 12: 2ch, htr to end, turn.
Row 13: Rep Row 5 – 22 (24, 26,
28) sts.
Row 14: 2ch, htr to last 3 sts,
htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 21 (23, 25,
27) sts.
Row 15: 2ch, htr to last 3 sts,
htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 20 (22, 24,
26) sts.
Row 16: 2ch, htr to last 3 sts,
htr2tog, 1htr, turn – 19 (21, 23,
25) sts.
Row 17: 2ch, htr2tog, htr to end,
turn – 18 (20, 22, 24) sts.
Row 18–25: Rep Rows 16 & 17
– 10 (12, 14, 16) sts.
Rows 26–28: 2ch, htr to end,
turn.
POCKETS
Make two
Using 4.5mm hook, 31ch.
Row 1: 1htr in third ch from
hook and in each ch to end, turn
– 30htr
Rows 2–25: 2ch (counts as first
htr), htr to end, turn.
Row 26: 2ch, htr to end, do not
turn.
Row 27: 1ch (does not count as
st), reverse dc in each st to end.
Fasten off.
NECK EDGING
Using 3.5mm hook, work one rnd
in dc around entire neck edge
working 1dc in each row end and
1dc in each of two unworked sts
at centre front neck.
Adjust sts to ensure edging
doesn’t pucker or become
too loose.
ARMHOLE EDGING
Using 3.5mm hook, work one rnd
in dc around entire armhole edge
working 1dc in each row end,
adjusting to ensure edging doesn’t
pucker or become too loose.
FINISHING
Join at shoulders.
Join side seams
Sew on pockets. END
Sew in ends.

With RS facing, rejoin yarn S M L XL

41 (43, 45, 47) sts in from edge.
ACTUAL BUST 99 103.5 108 113 cm
Row 1: (RS) 2ch, htr2tog, htr
to last 8 sts, htr2tog, 1htr, turn 39 40¾ 42½ 44½ in
(leaving rem 5 sts unworked) ACTUAL HIP 105 110 115 120 cm
– 34 (36, 38, 40) sts.
Row 2: (WS) 2ch, htr2tog, htr 41¼ 43¼ 45¼ 47¼ in
to last 3 sts, htr2tog, 1htr, turn LENGTH TO SHOULDER APPROX 77 77 77 77 cm
– 32 (34, 36, 38) sts. (TO LONGEST POINT AT BACK) 30½ 30½ 30½ 30½ in
Row 3: 2ch, htr to last 3 sts,

48 Inside Crochet
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

MATERIALS
● The Fibre Co. Lore,
100% Kent Lambswool,
100g/250m/273yds
Yarn A: Stable LOR080
x 7 (7, 8, 8, 8) hanks
Yarn B: Happiness LOR120
x 1 hank
● 4.5mm & 5mm hooks
● Six stitch markers

YARN ALTERNATIVES
Use any 100% wool or tweed DK
yarn for a similar result.

TENSION
Work 15dc and 18 rows to
measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using
5mm hook, or size required to
obtain tension.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Sandra is from Mexico and
lives in the UK with her family.
Her designs are inspired by her
experiences abroad. You can find
more at www.nomadstitches.
com or on Ravelry and Instagram
as @NomadStitches.

SPECIAL STITCHES
Raised treble front (rtrf): Yrh,
insert hook from front to back
to front around upright post of
indicated stitch two rows below,
yrh and pull through to front of
st (3 loops on hook), (yrh and pull
through 2 loops) twice.

Raised double treble front

(rdtrf): Yrh twice, insert hook
from front to back to front
around upright post of indicated
stitch two rows below, yrh
and pull through to front of st
(4 loops on hook), (yrh and pull
through 2 loops) three times.

Foundation double crochet

(fdc): Insert hook in last st (same
place previous st was worked
into), yrh and pull through, yrh,

Wo rkw e ar Ju m pe r pull through first loop on hook

BY SANDRA GUTIERREZ
This jumper emulates the traditional fisherman’s
sweater, creating a garment to accompany you through
a hard day’s work, be it at the office or outdoors.
(this makes the “chain” part of
the st), yrh and pull through
two remaining loops on hook.
Work next fdc into “chain” of
previous stitch.
Fdc is used to add stitches at
ends of rows without making
a chain.

ADD TO THE STASH

Invisible join: Join rounds by
Buy this pure wool yarn from
www.thefibreco.com making a sl st in first st of round.
To keep it as invisible as possible,

50 Inside Crochet
pull and tighten both sl st and the
following turning 1ch.
For extra help, find the video
tutorial here: https://youtu.be/
JFrBjVGwXIU.

27¼ (28¾, 29, 29½, 30¼)in

PATTERN NOTES

69 (73, 74, 75, 77)cm

The jumper is worked top-down

17½ (18¾, 18½, 18½, 18¾)in

completely seamlessly. Starting at 45.5 (47, 49.5, 50.5, 52)cm

44.5 (47.5, 47, 47, 47.5)cm

the neck, work raglan increases 18 (18½, 19½, 20, 20½)in
at four corners of the yoke
and also increase at the front
to shape the neck. The cable
design will start being worked
as the yoke grows. When the
neck reaches the correct length,
the yoke will be joined at the
front and it will be worked in the
round throughout while making
the cable motif at the front.
When the yoke is complete, the
sleeves and body are separated. 95 (105, 115, 125, 135.5)cm
The body is worked and then 37¼ (41¼, 45¼, 49¼, 53¼)in
the sleeves, both finishing with
ribbing at the bottom and cuffs.
Then the collar is worked around
the neckline. increases will be worked increases. The easiest way to Row 1: (RS) 1dc and PM1 in
separating each section of the pass a marker from one row to second ch from hook (Front sts),
Markers are placed in the first yoke as well as the beginning of another is to use a scrap piece 1dc and PM2 (for raglan) in next
row of neck where raglan the neck to keep track of neck of yarn and pass it over the ch, 1dc in each of next 8 (8, 9,
working yarn before working 6, 5) ch (first Sleeve), 1dc and
the marked st. PM3 in next ch (for raglan), 1dc
in each of next 23 (25, 25, 29,
YOKE 31) ch (Back sts), 1dc and PM4 in
START With 5mm hook, next ch (for raglan), 1dc in each
46 (48, 50, 48, 48)ch. of next 8 (8, 9, 6, 5) ch (second

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 51
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions
CHART 1 (S/M/L) CHART 1 (XL/2XL)
Row 24 (28, 28) Row 20 (22)
Row 22 (26, 26) Row 18 (20)
Row 20 (24, 24) Row 16 (18)
Row 18 (22, 22) Row 14 (16)
Row 16 (20, 20) Row 12 (14)
Row 14 (18, 18)
Sleeve), 1dc and PM5 (for raglan)
in next ch, 1dc and PM6 (for
Row 12 (16, 16)
Front) in last ch, turn – 45 (47, 49,
47, 47)dc.
Row 10 (14, 14)
From now on pass ALL markers
on EVERY row until otherwise
stated.
Row 8 (12, 12)
Row 2: (Raglan inc row) (WS) 1ch
(does not count as st here and
throughout) dc to first Raglan
pm, *3dc in marked st (move pm
to middle of these 3 sts), dc to
next raglan pm; rep from * twice
more, 3dc in marked st, dc to end
of row, turn – 53 (55, 57, 55, 55)
sts (8 sts inc).
Row 3: 1ch, dc to end, turn.
Row 4: (Neck and Raglan inc
row) 1ch, 2dc in first st, place
Neck marker in second st of inc,
dc to next Raglan marker, *3dc
in marked st, dc to next Raglan
marker; rep from * twice more,
3dc in marked st, dc to last st,
2dc in last st, place Neck marker
in first st of inc, turn – 63 (65, 67,
65, 65) sts (10 sts inc).
Neck markers now remain in this
same position and passed on
same st on foll rows to show how
many sts have been inc’d at neck.
Row 5: 1ch, dc to end, turn.
Sizes S, M & L only
Rep Rows 2–5, making Raglan
incs on every WS row (ie every
second row), neck incs on every
alt WS row (ie every fourth row)
and working dc along on every
RS row to end of Row 8 (12, 12,
-, -). There will be a total of 2 (3,
3, -, -) sts before first and after
last neck markers – 81 (101, 103,
-, -) sts.
52 Inside Crochet
2dc in 1 st
Rtrf
Rdtrf
dc
Sizes XL & 2XL only
Rep Rows 4 & 5, making Raglan
and Neck incs on every WS row
(ie every second row) and
working dc along on every RS
row until Row - (-, -, 12, 14).
There will be a total of - (-, -, 5, 6)
sts before first and after last neck
markers – - (-, -, 105, 115) sts.
All sizes
NECK CABLES
Remove Neck markers. Cont
working Raglan and Neck incs as
set and at the same time working
cables motif at beg and end of
row. PM on seventh st from beg
and end of row to mark where
Cable Chart starts and ends (ie
Front markers). First and last 6 sts
of row will follow Chart.
CHART 1
At beg of row read Chart from
right to left to first Front marker.
After reaching second Front
marker, read Chart from left
to right.
Thus next two rows will be:
Row 9 (13, 13, 13, 15): 1ch,
work Chart 1 to first Front
marker, dc to second Front
marker, follow Chart 1 to end of
the row, turn – 81 (101, 103, 105,
115) sts.
Row 10 (14, 14, 14, 16): 1ch,
work Chart 1 to first Front
marker, *dc to next Raglan
marker, 3dc in marked st; rep
from * a further three times, dc
to second Front marker, follow
Chart 1 to end of row, turn – 89
(109, 111, 115, 125) sts (inc 8 (8,
8, 10, 10, 10) sts).
Rep last two rows to end of
 CHART 2
Row 24 (28, 28, 20, 22). There
will be a total of 10 sts of Chart
before first and after last markers
ending on a WS row – 153 (173,
175, 145, 155) sts.
Cont in patt as set by last two
rows, but following Chart 2.
CHART 2
Cont working incs for Raglan
ONLY (Neck incs now complete)
and foll Chart 2 to end of Row 32
(32, 32, 36, 36) – 185 (189, 191,
209, 211) sts.
At beg of row read Chart from
right to left to first Front marker.
After reaching second Front
marker, read Chart from left to
right. Light grey sts at beg show
last rows of Chart 1.
JOIN FRONT NECK
Row 33 (33, 33, 37, 37): 1ch,
work Chart 2 to first marker, dc
to last marker, work Chart 2 to
end of Row, 11fdc (see Special
Stitches), sl st in first st of row to
join to a round at front of work
– 196 (200, 202, 220, 222) sts.
Fasten off and cut yarn.
CHART 3
Work 1dc in each st on every
WS row.
4 Light grey sts at beginning are
there to show previous rows
3
including the fdc made when the
2 yoke was joined at the front.
1 DIVIDE FOR BODY &
SLEEVES
Row 41 (43, 47, 49, 53) (RS):
7 (9, 13, 15, 17)ch for underarm,
miss 48 (50, 55, 54, 57) sleeve
sts to next marker, 1dc in raglan
marker, dc to next Front marker,
work Chart 3 to next Front
marker, dc to next raglan marker,
1dc in raglan marker, 6 (8, 12,
14, 16)ch for underarm, miss 48
(50, 55, 54, 57) sleeve sts to next
marker, 1dc in raglan marker,
REMAINDER OF YOKE dc to end of Rnd, sl st to first ch
Attach yarn on WS, to st with Back to join rnd (this chain does not
marker that is on right hand side count as an underarm st), turn
to start working on Back on WS. – 144 (156, 172, 188, 204) sts
Cont in rnds turning after joining including underarm ch.
on every rnd. Use Invisible Join Remove all Raglan markers. Leave
(see Special Stitches) to keep Front markers to indicate start
seam invisible. and end of Chart 3.
WS Rnd: 1ch, 2dc in first st (PM Next Row: (WS) 1ch, dc around,
in first st), *dc to next Raglan sl st in first to join, turn.
marker, 3dc in marked st; rep Next Row: 1ch, dc to Front
from * a further three times, pass marker, work Chart 3 over next
both Front markers, dc to end 31 sts to next Front marker, dc
of round, 1dc in same st as first to end of rnd, sl st in first st to
2 sts of round are worked, sl st join, turn.
in first st to join, turn. Rep last two rows until Body
RS Rnd: 1ch, dc to first Front measures 40cm/15¾in from
marker, follow Chart 3 in next underarm or until desired length
31 sts to next Front marker, dc minus 7cm/2¾in (for ribbing)
to end of rnd, sl st in first st to ending on a RS row.
join, turn.
Rep these two rnds to end of row RIBBING
40 (42, 46, 48, 52) – 228 (240, With 4.5mm hook, 12ch.
258, 268, 286) sts. Row 1: 1dc in second ch from
hook and in each ch to end,
CHART 3 when reaching body, miss first
Worked at front of body only st of rnd and sl st in next st
Read from right to left. – 11 rib sts
Each WS row is marked in grey. Row 2: Sl st in next st, turn, miss
Each RS row is marked in red both sl sts, dc blo to end of row,
or blue. turn – 11 rib sts.
Row 3: 1ch, dc blo to end of row,
sl st in next unused st of body.
Rep Rows 2 & 3 around entire
bottom edge.
On WS, sl st together front loop
of each st of last row to each
starting ch of rib.
Fasten off.
SLEEVES
Both alike
With 5mm hook, attach yarn to
middle st of underarm ch.
Rnd 1: 1ch, 1dc in each
underarm ch to 1 ch from corner,
dc2tog over last underarm ch and
side of corner where yoke meets
underarm, 1dc in each st around
yoke to next corner, dc2tog over
side of corner and first underarm
ch, 1dc in each underarm ch to beg
of rnd, sl st in first st to join, turn.
Adjust no of sts to close any
gaps that may occur in corners,
being sure to replicate on second
sleeve, to approx 50 (54, 63, 64,
69) sts.
Joining with sl st at and turning
at end of each Rnd, cont as folls:
Work four (four, two, two, two)
more rnds in dc joining and
turning at end of each rnd as
for body.
Dec Rnd: 1ch, dc2tog, dc to 1 st
from end of rnd, miss last st, sl st
in first st to join – 48 (52, 61, 62,
67) sts.
Work five (five, three, three,
three) rnds in dc.
Rep Dec Rnd – 46 (50, 59, 60,
65) sts.
Rep last six (six, four, four, four)
rnds a further 7 (9, 13, 13, 15)
times – 39 (41, 46, 47, 50) sts.
Cont without shaping until
Sleeve measures 38.5 (40, 42.5,
43.5, 45)cm/15¼ (15¾, 16¾,
17¼, 17¾)in from underarm
or until desired length minus
7cm/2¾in (for rib).
4
3
2
1
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 53
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

RIBBED CUFF times, dec 1 st of ribbing on

Work as for Ribbing on Body. every alt odd row as set and
working one row of rib per every
RIBBED NECK 1 st of set-up row – 11 sts.
With 5mm hook and RS facing, Remove marker.
rejoin yarn to bottom left corner Work Patt Rows 2 & 3 of rib as
of neckline at vertical edge at start of neck without working
immediately before where yoke is decs to bottom of neckline.
joined at front. Fasten off leaving a 20cm/8in tail.
Set-up Row: 1ch (does not
count as a st), dc along row ends On WS, using a tapestry needle
working 1dc in each row on side and tail left at end of rib,
of yoke rows and 1dc in each mattress st to sew last row of
starting ch around back of neck, rib to back of row of sl sts of
to opposite bottom corner. Be Neck Set-up Row. Match 11 sts
sure to have same amount of of rib to 11 sl sts on bottom of
sts either side of neckline. Sl1 in neckline.
bottom of each of 11fdc joined to
front. PM at each side of starting ELBOW PATCHES
ch at neck yoke. Make two
Using yarn B and 5mm hook,
Change to 4.5mm hook. 8ch.
Patt Row 1: 1ch, 1dc blo in each Rnd 1: 3dc in second ch from
sl st, when reaching body miss hook, 1dc in each of next 5 ch,
first st of row and sl st in next st 3dc in last ch, turn, 1dc in each
– 11 rib sts. of next 5 unworked loops of
Patt Row 2: Sl st in next st, turn, starting ch – 16 sts.
miss 2 sl st, dc blo to end, turn. Do not turn, work in a continuous
Patt Row 3: 1ch, dc blo to end, spiral as folls using marker to
sl st in next unworked st of neck. denote start of rnd:
Rep Rows 2 & 3 until 14 or 13 sts Rnd 2: [2dc in each of next 3 sts, times, 5dc; rep from * – 46 sts. Block patches before attaching.
from marker, ending on a Row 2. 5dc] – 22 sts. Rnd 7: *[2dc in next st, 5dc] three Using a tapestry needle and
Rnd 3: *[2dc in next st, 1dc] three times, 5dc; rep from * – 52 sts. using a running st around last
SHAPE NECK INCREASES times, 5dc; rep from * – 28 sts. Rnd 8: *[6dc, 2dc in next st] three row, fasten patches to sleeves at
Row 1: (Inc) 1ch, dc blo to last Rnd 4: *[2dc, 2dc in next st] three times, 5dc; rep from * – 58 sts. elbow height.
st, 2dc in last st, sl st in next times, 5dc; rep from * – 34 sts. Rnd 9: *[2dc in next st, 7dc] three
unworked st of neck, turn Rnd 5: *[2dc in next st, 3dc] three times, 5dc; rep from * – 64 sts. FINISHING
– 12 rib sts. times, 5dc; rep from * – 40 sts. Sl st in first st, fasten off and Weave in all ends. END
Row 2: Miss sl st on body, dc blo Rnd 6: *[4dc, 2dc in next st] three cut yarn. Block work.
to end, turn.
Row 3: 1ch, dc blo to end, sl st in
next unworked st of neck, turn. S M L XL 2XL
Row 4: As Row 2. TO FIT CHEST 89 99 109 119 129.5 cm
Rep last four rows a further six
times, inc 1 st in rib on every alt 35 39 43 47 51 in
odd row as set and working 1 ACTUAL CHEST 94.8 105 115 125 135.5 cm
row of rib per every 1 st of set-up
37¼ 41¼ 45¼ 49¼ 53¼ in
row – 18 rib sts.
Remove marker. NECK 44 46.5 48 50.5 53 cm
Work Patt Rows 2 and 3 of rib as 17¼ 18¼ 19 20 21 in
at start of neck without working
incs to next marker, ending on a UPPER ARM 34.5 37 42 44.5 47 cm
Row 2. 13½ 14½ 16½ 17½ 18½ in
CUFF 22 23 24 24 25 cm
SHAPE NECK DECREASES
Row 1: 1ch, dc blo to end of 8¾ 9 9½ 9½ 9¾ in
row, sl st in next unworked st of
SLEEVE LENGTH 45.5 47 49.5 50.5 52 cm
neck, turn – 18 sts.
Row 2: Miss sl st on body, dc blo 18 18½ 19½ 20 20½ in
to end, turn. LENGTH TO SHOULDER 69 73 74 75 77 cm
Row 3: (Dec) 1ch, dc blo to
last 2 sts, dc2tog, sl st in next 27¼ 28¾ 29 29½ 30¼ in
unworked st of neck, turn – 17 sts. LENGTH TO UNDERARM 44.5 47.5 47 47 47.5 cm
Row 4: As Row 2.
17½ 18¾ 18½ 18½ 18¾ in
Rep last four rows a further six

54 Inside Crochet
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions
Tyn e Wrap
BY ANNA NIKIPIROWICZ
This stunning lace wrap is
perfect for long walks on
cool autumn days.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this pure wool yarn from
ww.tribeyarns.com
56 Inside Crochet
MATERIALS
● Isager Spinni, 100% wool,
100g/600m/656yds
Shade: Dusky Pink 61S
x 3 skeins
● 4.5mm hook
TENSION
Work 3½ fans and 9 rows to
measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using
4.5mm hook, or size required to
obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Finished size after blocking:
288 x 28cm/113 x 11in.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Anna has been crocheting and
knitting since childhood, and has
been designing for around ten
years, creating many gorgeous
accessory and homeware
designs. Visit her website at
www.moochka.co.uk.
SPECIAL STITCHES
Raised half treble back (rhtrb):
Yrh, insert hook from back to
front to back around post of st in
row below, yrh, pull through all
3 loops on hook.
Fan: 9tr in same place where
instructed.
PATTERN NOTES
The wrap is made in two parts
and then sewn together.
FIRST HALF
START Make an adjustable
ring, work (3ch (counts
as 1tr), 2tr) in ring and over the
yarn end, pull yarn end tight,
turn – 3tr.
Row 1: (WS) 1ch (does not count
as st throughout), 2dc in first st,
1dc in next st, 2dc in top of 3ch,
turn – 5dc.
Row 2: (RS) 3ch (counts as 1tr
throughout), 1tr in same st as
3ch, 1tr in each of next 3 sts, 2tr
in last st, turn – 7tr.
Row 3: 1ch, 2dc in first st, 1rhtrb
(see Special Stitches) around each
tr post across to last 3ch, 2dc in
top of 3ch, turn – 9 sts.
Row 4: 3ch, 1tr in same st as
3ch, 1ch, miss next st, [1tr in
next st, 1ch, miss next st] across
to last st, 2tr in last st, turn
– 7tr, 4x 1ch-sps.
Row 5: 1ch, 2dc in first st, 1dc in
each st and 1ch-sp across to last
st, 2dc in last st, turn – 13dc.
Row 6: 3ch, 1tr in same st as
3ch, 1tr in each st across to last
st, 2tr in last st, turn – 15tr.
Row 7: 1ch, 2dc in first st, 1rhtrb
around each tr post across to last
3ch, 2dc in top of 3ch, turn
– 17 sts.
Rep Rows 4–7 seven times more
– 73 sts.
LACE BODY
Row 1: (RS) 1ch, 1dc in first st,
[miss next 3 sts, fan (see Special
Stitches) in next st, miss next
3 sts, 1dc in next st] across to
end, turn – 9 fans, 10dc.
Row 2: 4ch (counts as 1tr, 1ch-sp
throughout), 1tr in same st as
4ch, [3ch, miss next fan, (1tr, 1ch,
1tr) in next dc] across to end, turn
– 10x 1ch-sps.
Row 3: 3ch, 4tr in first 1ch-sp,
miss next st, 1dc in middle tr
(fifth tr) of fan two rows below,
enclosing 3ch from previous row,
miss next st, [fan in next 1ch-sp,
miss next st, 1dc in middle tr
(fifth tr) of fan two rows below,
enclosing 3ch from prev row,
miss next st] across to last 1ch-sp,
4tr in 1ch-sp, 1tr in top of 3ch,
turn – 8x fans, 2x half fans.
Row 4: 1ch, 1dc in first st, 1ch,
miss next 4 sts, (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in
next dc, [3ch, miss next fan, ([1tr,
1ch, 1tr) in next dc] across to last
4 sts and 3ch, 1ch, miss 4 sts, 1dc
in top of 3ch, turn.
Row 5: 1ch, 1dc in first st, miss
next 1ch-sp and st, fan in next
1ch-sp, miss next st, [1dc in
middle tr (fifth tr) of fan two
rows below, enclosing 3ch from
prev row, miss next st, fan in next
1ch-sp, miss next st] across to last
1ch-sp and dc, miss 1ch-sp, 1dc
in last dc, turn.
Rep Rows 2–5 24 times more.
Fasten off.
SECOND HALF
As First Half, except repeat lace
body pattern 23 times more, then
Rows 2 & 3 once more, ending
with RS.
Fasten off leaving 1m/40in tail
for joining.
JOINING TWO HALVES
Place both halves parallel to each
other, with RS facing out, so that
the end edges lay opposite each
other with the second half and
tail on top.
Using the basic over stitch with
yarn needle and long tail, join
yarn to first dc of first half and
first tr on opposite side in second
half, work an over stitch twice in
that join.
1. Carry yarn along to next place
to join by weaving yarn in and
out of tops of next 4 tr of first
half only.
2. Join next tr of first half and dc
on opposite side in second half,
by working an over st twice.
3. Carry yarn along to next place
to join by weaving yarn in and
out of tops of next 4 tr of first
half only.
4. Join next dc of first half and
middle tr of next fan on opposite
side in second half by working an
over st twice.
Rep last four steps until wrap is
joined, making sure not to pull
thread too tightly, so work does
not pucker.
EDGING
With RS facing, starting at the
halfway point of the wrap.
Row 1: 1ch, 1dc along row edges
of wrap, working (1dc, 1ch, 1dc)
in adjustable ring on each end of
the wrap, sl st in first st.
Row 2: 1ch, 1rhtrb around post
of each dc around the wrap,
working [2htr, 2ch, 2htr] in 1ch-
sps on both ends, sl st to first st.
Row 3: 1ch, 1dc blo in every
rhtrb around the wrap, working
[2dc, 2ch, 2dc] in 2ch-sps on
both ends, sl st to first st.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends
Wet block shawl by soaking it in
lukewarm water, gently squeeze
the water out or roll it in dry
towel to remove excess moisture.
Pin it out to the finished
measurements. 5
Allow to dry naturally. 4
repeat
Using instructions below, make 6
two tassels approximately 3
10cm/4in in length and attach
2
one to each 2ch-sp on end
1
of wrap.
35
Attach tassels by wrapping tail
used to wrap top of tassel in 34
Step 2, around 2ch-sp from Rnds 33
2 & 3 of edging and top of tassel
32
approximately four times then
7
burying the end inside tassel.
repeat
6
TASSELS 5
Make two
4
Cut a rectangle out of cardboard
3
approximately 10cm/4in in length
and 7cm/2¾in wide. 2
chain stitch
Make tassels with two strands of 1
yarn held together – one strand double crochet (dc)
from outer end of ball and one 2 double crochet (2dc)
from inside.
treble crochet (tr)
1. Holding yarn double, wrap
around the longer length of Raised half treble Back (RhtrB)
rectangle in the centre until nice
and slightly full, approximately dc, encasing the chain
70 wraps. Do not wrap too many.
adjustable ring
Cut the yarn.
2. Thread tapestry needle with 9tr Fan
25cm/10in of yarn held double,
thread through the top and
wrap five times around the top,
tie a knot snugly. Remove needle,
leaving knot ends to attach
to work.
3. Ease the tassel gently from the
cardboard.
4. Cut another 25cm/10in of
yarn held double and wrap
around tassel, close to the top,
approximately 15 times, snugly.
Tie knot in yarn and bury the
end inside tassel using
tapestry needle. Cut
bottom ends of tassel END
and trim evenly.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 57
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

MATERIALS
● Isager Alpaca 2,
50% alpaca/50% wool,
50g/250m/273yds
Shade: 33 x 1 skein
● 4mm hook
● Yarn needle

YARN ALTERNATIVES
Any other alpaca yarn of a
similar weight should work for
this design. The alpaca fibre
gives a lovely drape and a
soft halo.

TENSION
Work Rnds 1–6 of Flower
Crown to measure 11cm/4¼in in
diameter using 4mm hook or size
required to obtain tension.
Work 8 V-sts and 13 rows to
measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using
4mm hook or size required to
obtain tension.
To get the slouchy effect, the
beanie is crocheted with a
medium tension and with a larger
hook than is normal for this yarn.

MEASUREMENTS
Height: 24cm/9½in.
Circumference: Approximately
51cm/20in, to fit head
circumference of approximately
52–57cm/20½–22½in.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Camilla is a Norwegian designer
with a true passion for crochet.
Find her on Instagram as
@lostincrochet and view more of
her designs at www.ravelry.com/
designers/camilla-baroe.

SPECIAL STITCHES
V-st: 2tr in same st. Work
subsequent V-sts in gap between
the 2 tr of previous V-st.

PATTERN NOTES
Beanie is worked from top down.
Pattern is divided into three parts:
a flower crown, the main part,
and a petal border.

Ro m an tic Be an ie Use a standing tr as your first tr,

BY CAMILLA BAROE
A cosy, warm and slouchy beanie for colder days.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this alpaca-blend yarn from
www.oxfordyarnstore.co.uk
or replace it with 3ch.
FLOWER CROWN
START With 4mm hook, make
an adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: 12tr in ring, sl st to first tr
to join – 12tr.
Rnd 2: 3ch (counts as first tr),
1ch, 1tr in same st, (1tr, 1ch, 1tr)

58 Inside Crochet
in each tr around, sl st to first st
to join – 24tr, 12x 1ch-sps.
Rnd 3: 1ch (does not count as a
st), 1dc in same st as sl st, 3ch,
tr3tog in 1ch-sp, 3ch, miss next
tr, [1dc in next tr, 3ch, tr3tog in 33
1ch-sp, 3ch, miss next tr] eleven
times around, sl st in first dc
– 12dc, 12 tr3tog, 24 3ch-sps. 8
Rnd 4: Sl st to top of first tr3tog,
7
1ch, [1dc in top of tr3tog, 5ch]
twelve times, sl st in first dc 6
– 12 dc, 12 x 5ch-sps.
5
Rnd 5: Sl st to first 5ch-sp, 1ch,
[5dc in 5ch-sp, 1rhtrf around next
dc] twelve times, sl st in first dc
– 60dc, 12 rhtrf.
4
Rnd 6: 3ch (counts as first tr), 4tr, 3
1 2
2tr in rhtrf, [5tr, 2tr in rhtrf] 11
times, sl st in first tr, turn – 84tr.

MAIN PATTERN
Turn after every round.
Rnd 7: 3ch (does not count as a
st), [V-st (see Special Stitches) in
next tr, miss 1 tr] to last 2 sts, 2tr
in next tr, sl st in top of 3 ch, turn
– 42x 2tr groups, 1t-ch.
Rnds 8–32: 3ch (does not count
as a st), V-st in each V-st around,
chain stitch
sl st in turning ch, turn.
slip stitch

PETAL BORDER double crochet (dc)

Rnd 33: Sl st to gap in first V-st, half treble crochet (htr)
1ch, 1dc in V-st, 3ch, tr3tog in
treble crochet (tr)
next V-st, 3ch, *1dc in next V-st,
3ch, tr3tog in next V-st, 3ch; Raised half treble Front (RhtrF)
rep from * to end, sl st in first dc
– 42x 3ch, 21x tr3tog, 21dc. tr3tog

Fasten off and END

weave in ends.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 59
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➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

MATERIALS
● Wool and the Gang
Ra-Ra Raffia, 100% paper,
100g/250m/273yds
Shade: Cinnamon Dust
x 2 balls
● 3mm hook
● Moda Fabrics Bayberry Linen
Texture Dusk Dark Blue,
1.5m/1½yds
● Leather strap, 2m/
2yds x 1.5cm/½in wide
● Bobbiny Rainbow dust or
Macrame Rope, 1m/
1yd x 5mm/¼in
● Four metal D-rings, 25mm/1in
● One metal D-ring, 40mm/1½in
● Two wooden beads
● Stitch marker

TENSION
Work 18 sts and 16 rows in
Herringbone dc to measure 10 x
10cm/4 x 4in using 3mm hook, or
size needed to obtain tension.

MEASUREMENTS
Outer shell is 32cm/12½in across
top edge, and top to bottom of
bag at the centre point measures
30cm/11¾in.

SPECIAL STITCHES
Herringbone half treble
crochet (HBhtr): Yrh, insert
hook in st, pull up a loop,
continue to pull this loop through
first loop on hook, yrh, pull
through both remaining loops.
The right side of the back pack
shell is the wrong side of
the stitch.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Zoe is a maker and crochet
designer living in North Devon
who loves natural yarns. Follow
her adventures in modern crochet
@zoecurtiscrochet on Instagram.

BACKPACK
START With 3mm hook, 41ch.
Rnd 1: 1HBhtr (see

Utility Backpack Special Stitches) in second ch

from hook, 1HBhtr in each of
BY ZOE CURTIS next 37 ch, 6HBhtr in last ch, turn
and work back along underside
of ch working in unused loops,
A practical, unisex backpack in earthy, natural tones made
38HBhtr, 6HBhtr in last ch, PM
from sustainable and biodegradable materials. – 88HBhtr.
Rnd 2: *38HBhtr [2HBhtr in next
st, 1HBhtr] three times; rep from
ADD TO THE STASH
* once more, PM – 94HBhtr.
Buy this paper yarn from
www.lovecrafts.com Rnd 3: *38HBhtr, [2HBhtr, 2HBhtr
in next st] three times; rep from *

62 Inside Crochet
 FIG 1
once more, PM – 100HBhtr.
Rnd 4: *38HBhtr, [1HBhtr,
2HBhtr in next st, 2HBhtr] three
times; rep from * once more, PM
– 106HBhtr.
Rnd 5: *38HBhtr, [2HBhtr in next
st, 4HBhtr] three times; rep from
* once more, PM – 112HBhtr.
Rnds 6–40: HBhtr around.
Rnd 41: 51HBhtr, sl st in next st.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends.
D-RING ATTACHMENTS
Make two
Leaving a long 15cm tail, 8ch.
FIG 2
Row 1: 1HBhtr in third ch from
hook and in each ch to end, turn
– 6HBhtr.
Rows 2–5: 1ch (does not count
as st), 6HBhtr to end, turn.
Fasten off and cut yarn leaving a
25cm/10in tail.
To attach metal D-rings to bag,
thread one crochet strip through
one D-ring and fold over straight
edge of the semicircle. Thread
15cm/6in starting tail onto a
tapestry needle, sew edges
together and weave in end.
Repeat for second D-ring (Fig 1).
FIG 3
Thread remaining 25cm/10in
tail end onto needle and sew to
bottom of bag between Rnds 7
and 8, 4cm/1½in in from outside
edge (Fig 2).
ATTACH TOP D-RINGS
Attach yarn at centre 6 sts at top
edge of bag by counting in 26 sts
from each outer edge, 1HBhtr in
each of centre 6 sts, turn (Fig 3).
Rows 2 & 3: 1ch, 6HBhtr, turn,
Thread larger sized D-ring
through and fold the short
crochet strip over straight edge
of the semicircle.
FIG 4
Sew end of strip to inside top edge
of bag to secure D-ring (Fig 4).
Attach two remaining D-rings
in same way. Count 14 sts away
from centre D-ring on each side
to place them evenly.
BAG LINING
Cut lining fabric to 93 x 67cm/
36½ x 26½in.
With right sides facing, fold fabric
in half width ways. Make one
mark along top fold and another
2.5cm/1in down. Now fold in half
lengthways and pin.
Sew along edge leaving a
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 63
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions
FIG 5
FIG 7
FIG 9
1.5cm/½in seam allowance and
a gap for drawstring between
marks. Press seam flat.
Turn tube of fabric in on itself,
press and topstitch 3cm/1¼in
from top edge to make channel
for drawstring. Attach a safety
pin to drawstring and thread
through the channel (Fig 5).
64 Inside Crochet
FIG 6
FIG 8
Sew along bottom edge of lining.
Open the corners and seam
allowances. Measure a line Te x tu re d
10cm/4in across each corner of
the seam and mark. Sew across
these lines (Fig 6).
He adban d
BY ANNA NIKIPIROWICZ
Insert lining into raffia outer
shell. Pin in place so 14cm/5½in
of lining is visible above raffia Keep your hair back with this
(Fig 7). colourful headband, adorned
Sew along top edge of outer shell with striking spike stitch.
to lining to secure both layers.
LEATHER STRAPS
Cut the strips of leather to
80cm/31¼in or desired length.
We recommend testing the strap ADD TO THE STASH
length before cutting to achieve Buy this pure cotton yarn from
the best fit for your body. Use www.blacksheepwools.com
a leather punch tool to make a
hole 1cm from end of strap and
another 1cm/½in up from first
hole. Leave 4cm/1½in and punch
another two holes 1cm/½in apart
(Fig 8).
Thread the leather through one
of the top D-rings and, using
tapestry needle, sew together
with raffia (Fig 9).
Repeat hole punching
and sewing process for END
bottom of straps.
MATERIALS
● Rowan Cotton Glace DK,
100% cotton,
50g/115m/126yds
Yarn A: Windsor 849
x 1 ball
Yarn B: Bleached 726
x 1 ball
● 3.5mm hook
● Stitch markers
TENSION
Work 11dc and 14 rows to
measure 5 x 5cm/2 x 2in using
3.5mm hook, or size required to
obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Finished size: 67cm/26in long
by 8cm/3in wide.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Anna has been crocheting and
knitting since childhood, and has
been designing for around ten
years, creating many gorgeous
accessory and homeware
designs. Visit her website at
www.moochka.co.uk.
SPECIAL STITCHES
Spiked Double Crochet (sdc):
Insert hook in row below as
instructed, yrh, pull loop through
and up to the height of current
row, yrh, pull through both loops
on hook.
Foundation double crochet
(fdc): 2ch, insert hook in first
ch, yoh, pull through loop, yoh,
pull through loop (ch made),
yoh, pull through 2 loops (dc
made), *insert hook in previous
ch made, yoh, pull through
loop, yoh, pull through loop (ch
made), yoh, pull through 2 loops
(dc made); rep from * for desired
number of stitches.
PATTERN NOTES
Starting with a chainless
foundation row gives the
headband a “stretchy” edge.
When working in short rows,
turn at end of row leaving
remaining sts unworked. Place
marker on last st of each short
row to indicate end of next row.
When joining yarn B to work
spike double crochet, carry
yarn A along behind yarn B
stitches to ensure yarn A is in
correct place to use again.
HEADBAND
START Make 124fdc (see
Special Stitches).
Row 1: (RS) 1ch (does not count
as st here and throughout),
124dc across to end, turn.
Rows 2 & 3: As Row 1.
Row 4: (WS) 1ch, 1 dc in each st
across to last 6 sts, turn, leaving
6 sts unworked – 118 sts.
Row 5: 1ch, 27dc, change to
yarn B, 1dc in next st, [1sdc
(see Special Stitches) in st one
row below, 1sdc in st two rows
below, [1sdc in st three rows
below] three times, 1sdc in st
two rows below, 1sdc in st one
row below, 1dc in next st] seven
times, change back to yarn A,
1dc in each st to last 6 sts,
turn, leaving 6 sts unworked
– 112 sts.
Fasten off yarn B.
Row 6: 1ch, 1 dc in each st to
last 4 sts before end of prev row,
turn, leaving 10 sts unworked
– 108 sts.
Row 7: 1ch, 1 dc in each st to
last 4 sts before end of prev row,
turn, leaving 10 sts unworked
– 104 sts.
Row 8: 1ch, 1 dc in each st to
last 4 sts before end of prev row,
turn, leaving 14 sts unworked
– 100 sts.
Row 9: 1ch, 1 dc in each st to
last 4 sts before end of prev row,
turn, leaving 14 sts unworked
– 96 sts.
Row 10: 1ch, 1 dc in each st to
last 4 sts before end of prev row,
turn, leaving 18 sts unworked
– 92 sts.
Row 11: (RS) 1ch, 11dc, change
to yarn B, 1dc in next st, [1sdc
in st one row below, 1sdc in st
two rows below, [1sdc in st three
rows below] three times, 1sdc
in st two rows below, 1sdc in
st one row below, 1dc in next
st,] eight times, change back
to yarn A, 1dc in each st to last
4 sts before end of prev row,
turn, leaving 18 sts unworked
– 88 sts.
Fasten off yarn B.
Row 12: 1ch, 1 dc in each st to
last 4 sts before end of prev row,
turn, leaving 22 sts unworked
– 84 sts.
Row 13: 1ch, 1 dc in each st to
last 4 sts before end of prev row,
turn, leaving 22 sts unworked
– 80 sts.
Row 14: 1ch, 1 dc in each st to
last 4 sts before end of prev row,
turn, leaving 26 sts unworked
– 76 sts.
Row 15: 1ch, 1 dc in each st to
last 4 sts before end of prev row,
turn, leaving 26 sts unworked
– 72 sts.
Row 16: 1ch, 1 dc in each
st to end, including missed
sts, pulling yarn tighter when
working over turned st so no
gap remains, turn.
Row 17: (RS) 1ch, 34dc, change
to yarn B, 1dc in next st, [1sdc
in st one row below, 1sdc in st
two rows below, [1sdc in st three
rows below] three times, 1sdc
in st two rows below, 1sdc in
st one row below, 1dc in next
st] seven times, change back to
yarn A, 33dc, turn – 124 sts.
Fasten off yarn B.
Rows 18 & 19: 1ch, 124dc
across.
Fasten off yarn A.
EDGING
With yarn B and RS facing, join
yarn to first st of last row.
Row 1: 1ch, 1sdc in st one row
below, [miss next st, 3dc in
next st, miss next st, 1sdc in st
one row below] across to last st
before end of row, 1dc in last
st, turn and work along first
set of row ends, 1htr in next st,
1tr in each of next 2 sts, 3dtr
in next st, 1tr in each of next
2 sts, 1 htr in next st, turn and
work across bottom edge, 1dc
in next st, [1sdc in st one row
below, miss next st, 3dc in next
st, miss next st] across to last st
before end of row, 1dc in last
st, turn and work along second
set of row ends, 1htr in next st,
1tr in each of next 2 sts, 3dtr
in next st, 1tr in each of next
2 sts, 1htr in next st, sl st in
first sdc to join.
Fasten off.
MAKING UP
Weave in all ends and steam
headband gently with an iron.
The headband is tied
around head using END
the ends.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 65
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions
Tran sference
Sh aw l
BY HELDA PANAGARY
Work away feelings of anxiety
and transfer those emotions
into something beautiful with
this calming shawl.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this luxurious yarn from
www.edencottageyarns.co.uk
66 Inside Crochet
MATERIALS
● Eden Cottage Yarns
Rosedale 4ply,
80% Merino wool/
15% nylon/5% gold
stellina, 5 x 20g/80m/87yds,
total 400m/435yds
Shade: Clematis Fade Set
Pinks x 1 mini-skein bundle
(see Pattern Notes)
● 3.5mm hook
● 3 pompoms
TENSION
Exact tension is not essential for
this design. What matters most is
that you can stitch comfortably,
that the crochet fabric is soft
and, when placed over a closed
fist, the fabric drapes well over
the contours of your hand.
MEASUREMENTS
Width: 142cm/56in.
Approximate length:
32.5cm/13in.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Helda is a passionate and creative
crochet designer, inspired by
flowers and nature, who can be
found on Instagram @heldap123.
PATTERN NOTES
Designed to use 100g of ombré
mini skeins, this shawl begins at
the narrow tip and grows into a
beautiful accent piece, which is
easy to make as small or large as
you wish.
Shawl is also shown worked
with an Ash Fade Set Greys
mini-skein bundle.
SHAWL
START With 3.5mm hook
and darkest shade
of set, 6ch.
Row 1: 1dc in fourth ch from
hook (missed ch count as 1dc,
1ch), 1ch, miss 1 ch, 1dc in next
ch, turn – 3dc.
Row 2: 3ch (does not count as
a st), 1dc in first dc, 1ch, 1dc in
next 1ch-sp, 1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in
next 1ch-sp, turn – 3dc.
Row 3: 2ch (do not count as st),
1dc into next 1ch-sp, 1ch, miss 1
st, 1dc in next ch-sp, 1ch, [1dc,
1ch, 1dc] in next 3ch-sp, turn
– 4dc.
Row 4: 3ch (do not count as st),
1dc in first dc, 1ch, 1dc in next
1ch-sp, [1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in
next 1ch-sp] ending in last ch-sp
turn, (ie leaving final dc and 2ch-
sp unworked) – 4dc.
Row 5: 2ch (do not count as st),
1dc into next 1ch-sp, [1ch, miss
1 st, 1dc in next 1ch-sp] to last
1ch-sp, 1ch, [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in
next 3ch-sp, turn – 5 dc.
Last two rows form pattern and
are repeated.
Cont in patt as set, breaking
off and joining in yarn when
each skein runs out, starting
with darkest colour of fade and
ending with lightest colour. Start
each new skein at the beginning
of a row.
Fasten off yarn.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends.
Soak shawl in warm water to
allow the stitches to relax and
bloom. Press dry between
towels. Pin out flat to dimensions
given at the start of the pattern,
paying close attention to the
crochet fabric, which should
be lying smoothly and not
overstretched. Allow to fully dry.
Attach a pom-pom to END
each corner.
 h
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➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

MATERIALS
● Scheepjes Mighty,
32% jute/68% cotton,
50g/80m/87½yds
Yarn A: River 756 x 2 balls
Yarn B: Stone 751 x 1 ball
● Scheepjes Catona,
100% cotton,
10g/25m/27½yds
Yarn C: Apple Green 389
x 1 ball
Yarn D: Cornelia Rose 256
x 1 ball
Yarn E: Garden Rose 251
x 1 ball
Yarn F: Jet Black 110 x 1 ball
Yarn G: Lemon 280 1 ball
Yarn H: Snow White 106
x 1 ball
Yarn I: Tangerine 281 x 1 ball
● 3mm & 4.5mm hooks
● Dowel, 1cm/½in diameter,
40cm/16in long

YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any light DK
weight cotton to achieve a
similar effect.

TENSION
Work 14dc and 18 rows to
measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using
4.5mm hook, or size required to
obtain tension.

MEASUREMENTS
Panel width: 34cm/13½in.
Height: 28cm/11in.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Sarah-Jane loves being inventive
with crochet and likes her
designs to be simple, fun and
quirky and most of all make
people smile. Find her on
Instagram: @flo_and_dot.

PANEL
START Using yarn A and
4.5mm hook, 51ch.
Row 1: (RS) 1dc in second ch

Be e Tidy from hook, 1dc in each st to

end, turn – 50dc.

Wa ll H an gin g Rows 2–48: 1ch, 50dc, turn.

Fasten off.

BY SARAH-JANE HICKS
EDGING
Using yarn B and 4.5mm hook,
Like busy bees, busy crocheters need to keep working in unworked loops of
their hooks and notions tidy. foundation ch of panel with RS
facing, join yarn with sl st to first
ch, 1ch (does not count as a st),
ADD TO THE STASH [1dc, 2ch, sl st in second ch from
Buy these colourful yarns from hook, 1dc] to end.
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
Fasten off and weave in ends.

68 Inside Crochet
HOOK POCKET
Using yarn A and 4.5mm hook,
16ch.
Row 1: (RS) 1htr in third ch from
hook, htr in each st end, turn
– 14htr.
Rows 2–16: 2ch (does not count
as st), 14htr, turn.
Fasten off.
SCISSOR POCKET
Using yarn A and 4.5mm hook,
3ch.
Row 1: (WS) 2htr in third ch
from hook, turn – 2htr.
Row 2: 2ch (does not count as
st here and throughout), 1htr,
2htr in next st, turn – 3htr.
Row 3: 2ch, 2htr, 2htr in next
st, turn – 4htr.
Row 4: 2ch, 3htr, 2htr in next
st, turn – 5htr.
Row 5: 2ch, 4htr, 2htr in next
st, turn – 6htr.
Row 6: 2ch, 5htr, 2htr in next
st, turn – 7htr.
Row 7: 2ch, 6htr, 2htr in next
st, turn – 8htr.
Row 8: 2ch, 7htr, 2htr in next
st – 9htr.
Fasten off.
POCKET EDGING &
DECORATION
Using yarn B and 4.5mm hook,
with RS facing, join yarn with
sl st to top corner of pocket,
1ch, 1dc in each st to end – 9dc.
Fasten off.
Using yarn B, weave in and out
of loops across top of Row 7.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
TAPE MEASURE POCKET
Using yarn B and 4.5mm hook,
4ch.
Row 1: (RS) 2tr in fourth ch
from hook, 2ch, 3tr, turn.
Row 2: Join yarn A, 3ch (counts
as tr throughout), 2tr in first st,
(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in 2ch-sp, 3tr in
top of last st, turn.
Row 3: Using yarn B, 3ch, 2tr
in first st, 3tr in sp between 3 tr
groups, (3tr, 2ch,3tr) in 2ch-sp,
3tr in sp between 3 tr groups,
3tr in top of last st.
Fasten off.
BEE
BODY
Using yarn G and 3mm hook,
5ch.
34cm/ 13½in
28cm/ 11in
Rnd 1: 2dc in second ch from
hook, 2dc, 3dc in last st, turn
and work along unworked loops
of foundation ch, 1dc in next st,
1dc, 1dc in same st as first 2dc,
join with sl st to first st – 10dc.
Rnd 2: 1ch, (2dc in next st)
twice, 2dc, (2dc in next st) three
times, 2dc, 2dc in last st, join
with sl st to first st – 16dc.
Fasten off leaving a long yarn
tail to sew bee to panel.
BEE STRIPES
Using yarn F and 3mm hook,
surface crochet or embroider a
few ch sts across the body.
WINGS
Make two
Using yarn H and 3mm hook,
2ch.
Rnd 1: 6dc in second ch from
hook – 6dc.
Fasten off leaving a long yarn
tail to sew wings to panel.
FINISHING
Lay out pockets and pin in place,
sew to panel using yarn B for
hook pocket and matching yarn
for other two pockets.
To form individual hook slots in
hook pocket, using yarn A, sew
running stitches down along
the tops of Rows 4, 8 and 12 of
hook pocket and through panel.
Add a little bow to top left
corner of hook pocket using a
short length of yarn B.
Using yarn C and with photo
and chart as a guide, surface
crochet or embroider using
chain stitch the word “crochet”.
Using yarn D, E, G and I
embroider flowers using lazy
daisy st and French knots.
Sew bee and wings on to panel
at end of letter “t”.
Using yarn A and 4.5mm hook,
attach panel to dowel using
dc, or by over sewing around
dowel. To hang, using yarn B
and 4.5mm hook, 60ch
and attach securely to END
the either end.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 69
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

MATERIALS
● John Arbon Textiles
Yarnadelic Sport,
100% Falklands Corriedale
wool, 100g/333m/364yds
Shade: Pink Moon x 3 skeins
● 4mm hook

YARN ALTERNATIVES
Try a plump 4ply or sport weight
yarn as an alternative.

TENSION
Work 17 sts and 13 rows in
pattern to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in before blocking, using
4mm hook or size required to
obtain tension.

MEASUREMENTS
Finished shawl is 218cm/86in
across, and 56cm/22in deep.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Rosina is a Devon based crochet
designer. You can find her on
Instagram as @zeensandroger.
She also frequently talks about
how brilliant crochet is on her
fortnightly YouTube podcasts.

SHAWL
START With 4mm hook, 12ch.
Row 1: 1tr in fourth ch
from hook, 2htr in next ch, 5htr,
2htr in next ch, 2tr in last ch, turn
– 13 sts.
Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr
throughout), 1tr in first st, 2htr in
next st, 2htr, 2htr in next st, 3htr,
2htr in next st, 2htr, 2htr in next st,
2tr in top of the 3ch, turn – 19 sts.
Row 3: 3ch, 1tr in first st, 2htr in
next st, 3htr, 2htr in next st, 7htr,
2htr in next st, 3htr, 2htr in next
st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn – 25 sts.
Row 4: 3ch, 1tr in first st, 2htr
in next st, [3htr, 2htr in next st]
twice, 5htr, [2htr in next st, 3htr]
twice, 2htr in next st, 2tr in top
of 3ch, turn – 33 sts.
Row 5: 3ch, 1tr in first st, 2htr in
next st, 8htr, 2htr in next st, [3htr,

Ruffled Feathers Shawl

BY ROSINA NORTHCOTT
A floaty and light crescent shawl with a mesh stitch edge.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this pure wool yarn from
www.jarbon.com
2htr in next st] three times, 8htr,
2htr in next st, 2tr in top of 3ch,
turn – 41 sts.
Row 6: 3ch, 1tr in first st, 2htr in
next st, 4htr, 2htr in next st, 3htr,
2htr in next st, 4htr, 2htr in next
st, 9htr, 2htr in next st, 4htr, 2htr
in next st, 3htr, 2htr in next st,
4htr, 2htr in next st, 2tr in top of
3ch, turn – 51 sts.
Row 7: 3ch, 1tr in first st, 2htr in

70 Inside Crochet
next st, 1htr in each st across to
last 2 sts, 2htr in next st, 2tr in
top of 3ch, turn – 55 sts.
Row 8: 3ch, 1tr in first st, 1ch, [1tr
in next st, 1ch, miss next st] across
to last 2 sts, 1tr in next st, 1ch, 2tr
in top of 3ch, turn – 59 sts.
Row 9: 3ch, 1tr in first st, 2htr
in next st, 1htr in each st and
1ch-sp across to last 2 sts, 2htr
in next st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn
– 63 sts.
Row 10: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st,
2htr in next st, 5htr, 2htr in next
st, [9tr, 2htr in next st] twice,
7htr, 2htr in next st, [9tr, 2htr in
next st] twice, 5htr, 2htr in next
st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn – 73 sts.
Rows 11–13: Rep Rows 7–9 once
– 85 sts.
Row 14: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st,
2htr in next st, 7htr, 2htr in next
st, [13htr, 2htr in next st] twice,
9htr, 2htr in next st, [13htr, 2htr
in next st] twice, 7htr, 2htr in
next st, 2tr in top of 3 ch, turn
– 95 sts.
Rows 15–17: Rep Rows 7–9 once
– 107 sts.
Row 18: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st,
2htr in next st, 9htr, 2htr in next
st, [17htr, 2htr in next st] twice,
11htr, 2htr in next st, [17htr, 2htr
in next st] twice, 9htr, 2htr in next
st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn – 117 sts.
Rows 19–21: As Row 7 – 129 sts.
– 183 sts.
Rows 31–33: Rep Rows 7–9
once – 195 sts.
Row 34: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st,
2htr in next st,17htr, 2htr in next
st, [33htr, 2htr in next st] twice,
19htr, 2htr in next st, [33htr, 2htr
in next st] twice, 17htr, 2htr in
next st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn
– 205 sts.
Rows 35–37: Rep Rows 7–9
once – 217 sts.
Row 38: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st,
2htr in next st,19htr, 2htr in next
st, [37htr, 2htr in next st] twice,
21htr, 2htr in next st, [37htr, 2htr
in next st] twice, 19htr, 2htr in
next st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn
– 227 sts.
Rows 39–41: As Row 7 – 239 sts.
Row 42: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st,
2htr in next st, 21htr, 2htr in next
st, [41htr, 2htr in next st] twice,
23htr, 2htr in next st, [41htr, 2htr
in next st] twice, 21htr, 2htr in
next st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn
– 249 sts.
Row 43–45: As Row 7 – 261 sts.
25htr, 2htr in next st, [45htr, 2htr Rows 47–49: Rep Rows 7–9
Row 46: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st, in next st] twice, 23htr, 2htr in once – 283 sts.
2htr in next st, 23htr, 2htr in next next st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn
st, [45htr, 2htr in next st] twice, – 271 sts. Row 50: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st,

Row 22: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st,

2htr in next st,11htr, 2htr in next
st, [21htr, 2htr in next st] twice,
13htr, 2htr in next st, [21htr, 2htr
in next st] twice, 11htr, 2htr in
next st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn
– 139 sts.
Rows 23–25: As Row 7 – 151 sts.

Row 26: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st,

2htr in next st,13htr, 2htr in next
st, [25htr, 2htr in next st] twice,
15htr, 2htr in next st, [25htr, 2htr
in next st] twice, 13htr, 2htr in
next st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn
– 161 sts.
Rows 27–29: Rep Rows 7–9
once – 173 sts.

Row 30: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st,

2htr in next st,15htr, 2htr in next
st, [29tr, 2htr in next st] twice,
17htr, 2htr in next st, [29htr, 2htr
in next st] twice, 15htr, 2htr in
next st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 71
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

2htr in next st, 25htr, 2htr in next 4ch] across ending last repeat
st, [49htr, 2htr in next st] twice, with 2ch, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn
27htr, 2htr in next st, [49htr, 2htr – 116x 4ch-sps.
in next st] twice, 25htr, 2htr in next Row 63: 5ch (counts as 1tr, 2ch),
st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn – 293 sts. 1dc in next 2ch-sp, [4ch, (1dc,
Rows 51–53: Rep Rows 7–9 4ch, 1dc) in next 4ch-sp] across,
once – 305 sts. ending with 4ch, 1dc in 5ch-sp,
2ch, 1tr in third of 5ch, turn.
Row 54: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st, Row 64: 1ch (does not count as
2htr in next st, 27htr, 2htr in next st), 1dc in tr, [5ch, (1dc, 5ch, 1dc)
st, [53htr, 2htr in next st] twice, in next 4ch-sp, 5 ch, 1dc in next
29htr, 2htr in next st, [53htr, 2htr 4ch-sp] ending with last dc in
in next st] twice, 27htr, 2htr in third of 5ch, turn.
next st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn Row 65: 6ch, (counts as 1dtr,
– 315 sts. 2ch-sp), 1dc in 5ch-sp, (5ch, 1dc)
Rows 55–57: Rep Rows 7–9 in each 5ch-sp across ending with
once – 327 sts. 2ch, 1dtr in last dc, turn.
Row 66: 1ch, 1dc in dtr, miss
Row 58: (Inc) 3ch,1tr in first st, 2ch-sp, (5ch, 1dc) in each 5ch-sp
2htr in next st, 29htr, 2htr in next across ending with last dc in
st, [57htr, 2htr in next st] twice, fourth of 6ch.
31htr, 2htr in next st, [57htr, 2htr Fasten off and sew in ends.
in next st] twice, 29htr, 2htr in
next st, 2tr in top of 3ch, turn FINISHING
– 337 sts. Gently wash in wool soap, rinse
Rows 59–61: As Row 7 – 349 sts. and squeeze out excess water,
blot in a towel.
Row 62: 5ch (counts as 1tr, 2ch- Pin out and leave to END
sp), miss 2 sts, [1dc, miss 2 sts, dry naturally.
*Covermount gifts not available with digital versions

£34.99 FOR
12 MONTHS
£19.99 FOR
6 MONTHS

MATERIALS Row 1: (WS) 3ch (counts as first

● Scheepjes Whirl,
60% cotton/40% acrylic,
220g/1000m/1094yds
Yarn A: Sea Breeze Tease
781 x 1 ball
● Scheepjes Maxi Sugar
Rush, 100% cotton,
50g/280m/306yds
Yarn B: Chrystalline 385
x 4 balls
● 3mm hook
● Stitch markers (optional)
TENSION
Work 21tr and 10.5 rows to
measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in
using 3mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Length approximately
165cm/65in from pointed tip
to widest edge.
Width approximately
165cm/65in along widest edge.
PATTERN NOTES
This shawl is made in rows,
starting from the pointed tip.
The rows will become wider as
you go, continue working until
the yarn runs out. Two types of
yarn are alternated throughout
the shawl: a 4ply-weight and
a laceweight yarn. Each yarn
is used for two rows before
Ch e vro n switching to the other. Do not
cut the yarn when it is not
tr here and throughout), 3tr in
ring, turn – 4 sts.
Row 2: (RS) 3ch, 1tr in same st,
1tr, 2tr in next st, 1tr, turn – 6 sts.
Row 3: 3ch, 1tr in same st, 2tr,
2tr in next st, 2tr, turn – 8 sts.
Row 4: 3ch, 1tr in same st, [1tr,
2tr in next st] three times, 1tr,
change to yarn B on last pull
through (see Pattern Notes),
turn – 12 sts.
Cont with yarn B, do not cut
yarn A.
Row 5: 3ch, 1tr flo in same st,
[2tr flo, 2tr flo in next st] three
times, 2tr flo, turn – 16 sts.
Row 6: 3ch, 1tr in same st, [3tr,
2tr in next st] three times, 3tr,
change to yarn A, turn – 20 sts.
Row 7: 3ch, 1tr in same st, [4tr,
2tr in next st] three times, 4tr,
turn – 24 sts.
Row 8: 3ch, 1tr in next st, (1tr,
2ch, 2tr) in next st, 4tr, miss
2 sts, 4tr, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in next
st, 3tr, miss➻2 Msts, 3tr, (2tr, 2ch,
A K E I T Pattern instructions
1tr) in next st, 1tr, change to
yarn B, turn – 27 sts. MATERIALS
● Rico Design Essentials Merino
Row 9: 3ch, 1tr flo in next st, DK, 100% Merino wool,
50g/125m/137yds
(1tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 4tr flo, Yarn A: Blue-Green 82
x 11 balls
miss 2 sts, 4tr flo, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) Yarn B: Patina 35 x 17 balls
● 4mm hook
in 2ch-sp, 5tr flo, miss 2 sts, 5tr
YARN ALTERNATIVES
flo, (2tr, 2ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp, 3tr You can use any DK weight yarn
to achieve a similar effect.
flo, turn – 33 sts.
TENSION
Row 10: 3ch, 1tr in next st, Work one full motif from Rnds
1–8 to measure 16.5cm/6½in
2tr, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp, 6tr,
miss 2 sts, 6tr, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in
2ch-sp, 5tr, miss 2 sts, 5tr, (1tr,
from one side to the other, using
4mm hook or size required to
obtain tension.

MEASUREMENTS

Bo u le va rd being used, but carry it along

the edge.
2ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp, 3tr, change
to yarn A, turn – 35 sts.
Width: 120cm/47¼in.
Length: 180cm/71in.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY

Sh aw l
BY CARMEN JORISSEN
Using a laceweight together with a 4ply-
weight yarn adds a touch of elegance, and
the stunning gradient of Scheepjes Whirl
does the rest!
Change yarn on last st of row,
by holding new yarn together
with indicated st, yrh, insert
hook in st and underneath
new yarn, yrh, pull up a loop,
yrh with old yarn, pull through
2 lps, yrh with new yarn, pull
through 2 lps.
Whenever changing to yarn B,
always work first row in front
loops only. This will create visual
lines on RS of piece.
Annelies tries to encourage
people to use their own
CHEVRON REPEAT imagination and creativity.
See more of her designs at
Rows are named A1/A2 and www.ravelry.com/designers/
annelies-baes-vicarno.
B1/B2 to make it easier to
SPECIAL STITCHES
remember which yarn to use. Standing treble crochet (St
tr): Make a slip knot and place
Row A1: (WS) 3ch, 1tr in next on hook, yrh and insert in first
st, 1tr in each st to 2ch-sp, (1tr,
st of rnd, yrh and pull up a loop
(3 loops on hook) (yrh and pull
through 2 loops) twice. (When
2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 1tr in each working st tr in same shade of
yarn as previous rnd, fasten off
st until 1 st before gap, miss 2 at end of previous rnd.)
V-stitch (V st): (1tr, 1ch, 1tr)
sts, 1tr in each st until 2ch-sp, worked in same stitch or space.
1ch join: Remove hook from
(2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 1tr in st, insert hook from top to
each st until 1 st before gap (ie bottom through next 1ch-sp of
previous motif, put loop back on
triangular hole created by two hook and pull hook with loop
gently upwards (above 1ch-sp of
missed sts in previous row), miss previous motif), 1ch.

2 sts, 1tr in each st until 2ch-sp, Rad ar Lo ve Blan ke t PATTERN NOTES

BY ANNELIES BAES Make 59 full motifs and eight
SHAWL (2tr, 2ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp**, 1tr in half motifs.
A minimalistic blanket made of hexagon motifs in Work Full Motifs with RS facing
START With yarn A, make an each st until last 3 sts, tr2tog,
a high-quality super-soft Merino wool.
at all times.
Work Half Motifs turning after
adjustable ring. 1tr, turn – inc 5 sts. each row.

ADD TO THE STASH Work Rnds 1–8 of each motif,

Buy this pure Merino yarn from then set aside and join together
www.lovecrafts.com on Rnd 9 using the join-as-you-
go method.

16 Inside Crochet 76 Inside Crochet

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72 Inside Crochet
 MATERIALS
● Caron Big Cakes,
100% acrylic,
300g/551m/603yds
Shade: Blue Macaron 26009
x 1 ball
● 5mm hook
● Bolster cushion pad,
40 x 15cm/16 x 6in
● Two tassels, 10cm/4in

YARN ALTERNATIVES
Use any aran-weight yarn to
achieve a similar effect.

TENSION
Work approximately 7htr and
8 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in using 5mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.

MEASUREMENTS
Length: 40cm/16in.
Diameter: 15cm/6in.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Jane loves experimenting with
different yarns, colours, shapes
and stitches. She runs workshops
to inspire others with her
passion for crochet. Find her
on Instagram @janeccrochet,
at www.janescrochet.com and
www.justhands-on.tv.

SPECIAL STITCHES
Astrakhan stitch: 6ch, sl st in
front loop of next st.

PATTERN NOTES
The bolster is worked in one
straight piece of htr and
Astrakhan sts.
The two end pieces are worked in
rounds of htr.

BOLSTER BODY
START Make 61ch.
Row 1: (RS) 1htr in
third ch from hook, 1htr in each
ch across, turn – 59htr.
As tra kh an Row 2: 2ch (does not count as
htr), 59htr across, turn – 59htr.
Bo ls te r Cu s h io n Rows 3–6: As Row 2.
Row 7: (RS) Miss first htr, [6ch,
BY JANE CZAJA sl st in flo of next htr] across, turn
– 58x 6ch-lps.
A cosy yoga cushion that combines astrakhan stitch Row 8: 1ch (does not count as
st), 1htr in unworked blo of each
with a great value self-striping yarn.
htr across, turn – 59htr.
Rows 9 & 10: Rep Rows 7 & 8.
ADD TO THE STASH Rows 11–16: As Row 2.
Buy this colour-changing yarn from Rep Rows 7–16 four more times.
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk Rep Rows 7–10 once more.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 73
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions
BOLSTER END
Make two
Make an adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: 1ch (does not count as st
throughout), 10htr in ring, sl st in
top of first htr – 10htr.
Rnd 2: 1ch, 2htr in each htr
around, sl st in top of first htr
– 20htr.
Rnd 3: 1ch, 2htr in same place
as sl st, 1htr, [2htr in next htr,
1htr] around, sl st in top of first
htr – 30htr.
Rnd 4: 1ch, 2htr in same place
as sl st, 2htr, [2htr in next htr,
2htr] around, sl st in top of first
htr – 40htr.
Rnd 5: 1ch, 2htr in same place
as sl st, 3htr, [2htr in next htr,
3htr] around, sl st in top of first
htr – 50htr.
Rnd 6: 1ch, 2htr in same place
as sl st, 4htr, [2htr in next htr,
4htr] around, sl st in top of first
htr – 60htr.
Rnd 7: 1ch, 2htr in same place
as sl st, 5htr, [2htr in next htr,
5htr] around, sl st in top of first
htr – 70htr.
Rnd 8: 1ch, 2htr in same place as
74 Inside Crochet
15cm/ 6in
sl st, 6htr, [2htr in next htr, 6htr]
around, sl st in top of first htr –
80htr. Fasten off.
Repeat for second Bolster End.
TASSELS
Make two
Wrap yarn around 10cm/4in
piece of card approximately
20 times (more if thicker tassels
are preferred).
Cut a length of yarn
approximately 30cm/12in long
and, using a needle, thread
through all loops at one end of
card, tie tightly in a double knot.
The remaining ends of yarn will
40cm/ 16in
be used to attach tassels to
Bolster Ends.
Slide loops off the card.
With another 30cm/12in length
of yarn, tie around tassel
approximately 2.5cm/1in from
top tightly with a double knot.
Fasten off neatly or incorporate
leftover lengths into tassels and
trim accordingly.
Cut loops at bottom of tassels.
FINISHING
With RS of Bolster Body together,
working in back loops only,
whip stitch foundation row and
last htr row together to form a
tube such that the seam will not
show on RS. Turn to RS and insert
cushion pad taking care to
keep Astrakhan rows in a
straight line.
With RS facing, evenly space four
pins (or more) around one Bolster
End piece and do the same with
Bolster tube.
Using whip stitch, join row ends
of Bolster tube to back loop of
htr st of Bolster End.
Repeat for second Bolster End.
Attach one tassel
to centre of each END
Bolster End.
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➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

MATERIALS
● Rico Design Essentials Merino
DK, 100% Merino wool,
50g/125m/137yds
Yarn A: Blue-Green 82
x 11 balls
Yarn B: Patina 35 x 17 balls
● 4mm hook

YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any DK weight yarn
to achieve a similar effect.

TENSION
Work one full motif from Rnds
1–8 to measure 16.5cm/6½in
from one side to the other, using
4mm hook or size required to
obtain tension.

MEASUREMENTS
Width: 120cm/47¼in.
Length: 180cm/71in.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Annelies tries to encourage
people to use their own
imagination and creativity.
See more of her designs at
www.ravelry.com/designers/
annelies-baes-vicarno.

SPECIAL STITCHES
Standing treble crochet (St
tr): Make a slip knot and place
on hook, yrh and insert in first
st of rnd, yrh and pull up a loop
(3 loops on hook) (yrh and pull
through 2 loops) twice. (When
working st tr in same shade of
yarn as previous rnd, fasten off
at end of previous rnd.)
V-stitch (V st): (1tr, 1ch, 1tr)
worked in same stitch or space.
1ch join: Remove hook from
st, insert hook from top to
bottom through next 1ch-sp of
previous motif, put loop back on
hook and pull hook with loop
gently upwards (above 1ch-sp of
previous motif), 1ch.

Rad ar Lo ve Blan ke t PATTERN NOTES

BY ANNELIES BAES Make 59 full motifs and eight
half motifs.
A minimalistic blanket made of hexagon motifs in Work Full Motifs with RS facing
at all times.
a high-quality super-soft Merino wool.
Work Half Motifs turning after
each row.

ADD TO THE STASH Work Rnds 1–8 of each motif,

Buy this pure Merino yarn from then set aside and join together
www.lovecrafts.com on Rnd 9 using the join-as-you-
go method.

76 Inside Crochet
From Rnd 2 onwards, start each
new round with a standing tr
(see Special Stitches), indicated
in green on chart, by fastening
off at end of each round
and working st tr as normal.
Alternatively, do not fasten off
at end of round but work 2ch or
3ch as preferred. St tr count as
normal tr when stitch count is
indicated.

FULL MOTIF
START Make 59
Using yarn A make an
adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: (RS) 1ch, 9dc in ring, sl st
in first dc to join (either fasten off
or continue to Rnd 2, see Pattern
Notes) – 9dc.
Rnd 2: 1St tr or 3ch (counts as
first st here and throughout) 1tr
in same st, 2tr in each dc around
– 18tr.
Rnd 3: 1St tr or 3ch, 2tr, 3ch,
[3tr, 3ch] five times, sl st in first st
to join – 6x (3tr, 3ch)
Fasten off yarn A.
Weave in ends.

Starting in any 3ch-sp, join in

yarn B using either 1St tr or 3ch
to start throughout, cont as folls:
Rnd 4: (2tr, 2ch, 2tr, 4ch) in each
3ch-sp around, sl st in first st to
join – 6x (2tr, 2ch, 2tr, 4ch).
Rnd 5: 2tr in first tr, 1tr, 2ch, 1tr,
2tr in next tr, [2ch, 1tr in 4ch-sp,
2ch, 2tr in next tr, 1tr, 2ch, 1tr,
2tr in next tr] five times, 2ch, 1tr
in last 4ch-sp, 2ch, sl st in first
st to join – 6x (3tr, 2ch, 3tr, 2ch,
1tr, 2ch).
Rnd 6: 2tr in first tr, 2tr, 2ch, 2tr,
2tr in next tr, [3ch, sl st in next tr,
3ch, 2tr in next tr, 2tr, 2ch, 2tr,
2tr in next tr] five times, 3ch, sl
st in next tr, 3ch, sl st in first st to
join – 6x (4tr, 2ch, 4tr, 3ch,
1sl st, 3ch).
Rnd 7: 2tr in first tr, 3tr, miss
2ch-sp, 3tr, 2tr in next tr, [7ch, 2tr
in next tr, 3tr, miss 2ch-sp, 3tr,
2tr in next tr] five times, 7ch, sl st
in first st to join – 6x (10tr, 7ch).
Rnd 8: [10tr, 9tr in 7ch-sp] six
times, sl st in first st to join
– 114 sts.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Weave in ends.
HALF MOTIF
Make eight
Using yarn A make an
adjustable ring.
Row 1: (RS) 1ch, 5dc in ring,
turn – 5dc.
Row 2: (WS) 2ch (does not count
as st here and throughout), 2tr
in first dc, 2tr in each next dc
across, turn – 10tr.
Row 3: 2ch, 2tr, [3ch, 3tr] twice,
3ch, 2tr, turn – 10tr, 3x 3ch.
Cut yarn A and fasten off.
Weave in ends.
Join yarn B in top of last st of
Rnd 3.
Row 4: 2ch, 1tr, miss next tr, 2ch,
(2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in first 3ch-sp, [4ch,
(2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in next 3ch-sp]
twice, 2ch, 1tr in last tr, turn –
14tr, 5x 2ch, 2x 4ch.
Row 5: 2ch, 1tr, 1ch, 2tr in next
tr, 1tr, 2ch, 1tr in next tr, 2tr in
next tr, [2ch, 1tr in 4ch-sp, 2ch,
2tr in next tr, 1tr, 2ch, 1tr in next
tr, 2tr in next tr] twice, 1ch, 1tr in
last tr, turn – 22tr, 2x 1ch, 7x 2ch.
Row 6: 2ch, 1tr, 2ch, 2tr in next
tr, 2tr, 2ch, 2tr, 2tr in next tr,
*3ch, sl st in next tr, 3ch, 2tr in
next tr, 2tr, 2ch, 2tr, 2tr in next tr;
rep from * once more, 2ch, 1tr in
last tr, turn – 26tr, 5x 2ch, 4x 3ch.
Row 7: 2ch, 1tr, 3ch, 2tr in next

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 77
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions
tr, 3tr, miss 2ch-sp, 3tr, 2tr in
next tr, *7ch, 2tr in next tr, 3tr,
miss 2ch-sp, 3tr, 2tr in next tr;
rep from * once more, 3ch, 1tr in
last tr, turn – 32tr, 2x 3ch, 2x 7ch.
Row 8: 2ch, 1tr, 4tr in first
3ch-sp, 10tr, [9tr in 7ch-sp, 10tr]
twice, 4tr in last 3ch-sp, 1tr in last
tr, turn – 58tr.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Weave in ends.
JOIN MOTIFS
Using schematic as a guide, join
all Full Motifs while working
Rnd 9 as follows.
ROW 1 LEFT ROW
MOTIF 1
Rnd 9: (RS) Rejoin yarn A with
st tr in first tr of Rnd 8 (ie first
tr worked in a tr after a 7ch-sp),
1ch, miss next tr, 1tr, 1ch, miss
2 tr, V-st (see Special Stitches)
between second missed tr and
next tr, 1ch, miss 2 tr, 1tr, [1ch,
miss next tr, 1tr] three times,
1ch, V-st in next tr, 1ch, 1tr, 1ch,
miss next tr, 1tr, *[1ch, miss next
tr, 1tr] twice, 1ch, miss 2 tr, V-st
between second missed tr and
next tr, miss 2 tr, 1tr in next tr,
[1ch, miss next tr, 1tr in next tr]
three times, 1ch, V-st in next tr,
1ch, 1tr, 1ch, miss next tr, 1tr; rep
from * four times more, 1ch, miss
78 Inside Crochet
8 6
last tr, sl st in first st to join.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Place this motif in upper
left corner.
ROW 1
MOTIFS 2–8
The following seven motifs of
the left row are joined using the
as-you-go method with one side,
bottom side of previous motif
and upper side of next motif. All
joins are made in ch-sps
See chart where coloured dots
indicate joining places.
Rnd 9: (RS) Rejoin yarn A with
4 2 1 3
st tr in first tr of Rnd 8 (ie first
tr worked in a tr after a 7ch-sp),
1ch, miss next tr, 1tr, 1ch, miss 2
tr, V-st between second missed
tr and next tr, 1ch, miss 2 tr, 1tr,
[1ch, miss next tr, 1tr] three times,
1ch, work first tr of V-st in next
st, 1ch join (see Special Stitches)
to Motif 1, work second tr of V-st
in same tr, (first join made), 1ch
join in next ch-sp of Motif 1 (join
2 made), 1tr in next tr, [1ch-join,
miss next tr, 1tr] three times, 1ch-
join, miss next 2 tr, V-st between
second missed tr and next tr
working join in 1ch-sp, 1ch-join,
miss 2 tr, 1tr, [1ch-join, miss next
tr, 1tr] three times, 1ch-join, V-st
in next tr working join in 1ch-sp,
joining for Motif 2 is now done.
Complete rnd without further
joining working 1ch, 1tr, 1ch, miss
next tr, 1tr, *[1ch, miss next tr, 1tr]
twice, 1ch, miss 2 tr, V-st between
second missed tr and next tr, 1ch,
miss 2 tr, 1tr, [1ch, miss next tr,
1tr] three times, 1ch, V-st in next
tr, 1ch, 1tr, 1ch, miss next tr, 1tr;
rep from * three more times, 1ch,
miss last tr, sl st in first st.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Repeat for all Motifs of left row.
ROWS 2–7
Join Motifs of Rows 2–7 using
schematic as a guide.
Join all rows from left to right and
all Motifs from top to bottom.
In first row only one side of each
motif is joined, in next rows
multiple sides are joined. Simply
use same method as for Row 1,
but for multiple sides.
Where several motifs come
5 7 9
together in 1ch-sps of V-sts
simply work the joins in same
1ch-sps.
JOIN HALF MOTIFS
Four Half Motifs are joined to
each short end of blanket.
HALF MOTIF 1 – UPPER
LEFT CORNER
Rnd 9: (RS) With long straight
side of Half Motif upwards, rejoin
yarn with st tr in upper left tr
of Row 8, (2ch, 1tr) in same tr
(counts as V-st), 1ch, 1tr in next
tr, [1ch, miss next tr, 1tr in next
tr] three times, 1ch, miss 2 tr,
V-st between second missed tr
and next tr, 1ch, miss 2 tr, 1tr
in next tr, [1ch, miss next tr, 1tr]
three times, 1ch, *work first tr of
V-st in next tr, 1ch-join in 1ch-sp
of V-st in upper left corner of
upper left motif of Row 1, work
second tr of V-st in same st (join
1 made), 1ch-join, 1tr (join 2
made), [1ch-join, miss next tr, 1tr]
three times, 1ch-join, miss next
2 tr, work first tr of V-st between
second missed tr and next tr,
1ch-join, work second tr of V-st
in same sp, 1ch-join, miss next
2 tr, 1tr, [1ch-join, miss next tr,
1tr] three times, 1ch-join; repeat
from * once more, working joins
13 to 24, work last join in last tr
of Row 8 working first tr of V-st,
1ch-join in 1ch-sp, work second
tr of V-st. Now continue over
upper straight side working 1ch,
1tr in Row 7, 1ch, 1tr in Row 6,
1ch, 1tr in Row 5, 1ch, 1tr in Row
4, 1ch, 1tr in Row 3, 1ch, 1tr in
Row 2, 1ch, V-st in adjustable
ring, 1ch, 1tr in Row 2, 1ch, 1tr
in Row 3, 1ch, 1tr in Row 4, 1ch,
1tr in Row 5, 1ch, 1tr in Row 6,
1ch, 1tr in Row 7, 1ch, sl st in first
tr to join.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Join next three half motifs at
upper side of blanket, while
joining both centre motifs with
three sides and the upper right
motif with two sides.
Join next four half motifs at
opposite end of blanket is
same way.
BORDER
Rnd 1: (RS) Join yarn A with sl st
in 1ch-sp of upper right corner
V-st and work along upper short
side working V-st in 1ch-sp, [1ch,
1tr] along entire upper straight
side to V-st in left upper corner,
work (V-st, 1ch, 1tr) in 1ch-sp of
last V-st, turn and crochet along
first long side of blanket working
* [1ch, 1tr] ten times (working in
both tr of V-sts), 1ch, tr2tog in
next tr of first motif (upper tr of
joining in V-st), miss 1ch-join and
bottom tr of joining, next miss
first tr of joining and 1ch-join of
next motif, and next tr, [1ch, 1tr]
to next V-st, (V-st, 1ch, 1tr) in
ch-sp of V-st; rep from * eight
more times, turn and work along
bottom straight side working
[1ch, 1tr] to corner V-st, (V-st,
1ch, 1tr) in ch-sp of V-st, turn and
work along second long side as
for first long side. End in upper
right corner where first V-st was
made, (1tr, 1ch) in V-st, sl st in
first tr to join.
Cut yarn and fasten off, turn.
Rnd 2: (WS) 1sl st flo in each st
around, sl st in first st to join.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
TASSELS
Make four large tassels using
yarn A.
Cut 30cm/12in threads and
attach them in all four corners
of blanket.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends.
Block blanket and allow END
to dry naturally.
Tickin g
Wris t
Warm e rs
BY ROSINA NORTHCOTT
Recreating traditional ticking
fabric in wool, this is a classic
crochet design that’s perfect
for the autumn months.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this pure wool yarn from
www.blackeryarns.co.uk
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 79
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions
MATERIALS
● Blacker Yarns Blacker
Swan 4-ply, 100% wool,
50g/175m/190yds
Yarn A: Teal x 1 ball
Yarn B: Pale Maiden x 1 ball
● 3.5mm hook
YARN ALTERNATIVES
This design would also suit other
plump, woolly 4ply yarns.
TENSION
Work 14 sts and 7 rows in
pattern to measure 7 x 7cm/
2¾ x 2¾in using 3.5mm hook or
size required to obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Sizes to fit:
XS: 11–13cm/4¼–5¼in.
S: 14–16cm/5½–6¼in.
M: 17–19cm/6¾–7½in.
L: 20–22cm/7¾–8¾in.
XL: 23–25cm/9–9¾in.
XXL: 26–28cm/10¼–11in.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Rosina is a Devon based
crochet designer. Find her on
Instagram as @zeensandroger.
She frequently talks about
80 Inside Crochet
how brilliant crochet is on her
fortnightly YouTube podcasts.
SPECIAL STITCHES
Foundation Treble (ftr): 4ch,
yrh, insert hook in fourth ch
from hook, yrh, draw through,
yrh, draw through 1 loop (this
makes the foundation chain
to work next stitch into), yrh,
draw through 2 loops, yrh, draw
through remaining 2 loops,
*yoh, insert hook in foundation
ch made by prev st, yoh, pull
through, yoh, pull through 1
loop, yoh, pull through 2 loops,
yoh, pull through remaining 2
loops; rep from * for number of
stitches required.
PATTERN NOTES
After finishing with yarn B, place
ball though working loop to fasten
off, do not cut until the end.
Cut yarn A after using and sew in
ends later.
Place yarn B to the back when
working yarn A stripes.
No turns are made in the pattern
unless otherwise stated.
For a shorter version, do not
work Rnds 7 & 8.
WRIST WARMER
START Make two
Using yarn A, work
as follows.
Rnd 1: (RS) 26 (28, 30, 32, 34,
36)ftr (see Special Stitches), join
with sl st to form ring.
Rnd 2: 1ch (does not count as st
throughout), [1rtrf, 1rtrb] around,
join with sl st to top of first rtrf.
Rnds 3–5: As Rnd 2.
Cut and fasten off yarn A.
Join yarn B.
Rnd 6: 1ch, tr around, join with sl
st to top of first tr.
Rnds 7 & 8: As Rnd 6.
Rnd 9: 1ch, 1tr, [2tr in next st]
twice, tr around, join with sl st
to first tr – 28 (30, 32, 34, 36,
38) sts.
Rnds 10 & 11: As Rnd 6.
Rnd 12: 1ch, 1tr, [2tr in next st]
three times, tr around, join with
sl st to first tr – 31 (33, 35, 37,
39, 41) sts.
Rnds 13 & 14: As Rnd 6.
Rnd 15: 1ch, 1tr, [2tr in next st]
three times, tr around, join with
sl st to first tr – 34 (36, 38, 40,
42, 44) sts.
Rnd 16: As Rnd 6.
Rnd 17: 1ch, 1tr, [2tr in next st]
four times, tr around, join with sl
st to first tr – 38 (40, 42, 44, 46,
48) sts.
Rnd 18: As Rnd 6.
Rnd 19: 1ch, 1tr, [2tr in next st]
four (four, four, six, six, six) times
tr around, join with sl st to first tr
– 42 (44, 46, 50, 52, 54) sts.
Fasten off, do not cut yarn B.
Rnd 20: Join yarn A, 1ch, dc
around, join with sl st to first dc.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
SEPARATE FOR THUMB
Rnd 21: Pull through yarn B, miss
12 (12,12,14,14,14) sts, sl st in
next st (insert hook into back of
st), thumb made, 1ch, turn work
to continue working on hand, 1tr
in same st as 1ch, tr around, join
with sl st to first tr – 30 (32, 34,
36, 38, 40) sts.
Rnd 22: As Rnd 6.
Fasten off, do not cut yarn B.
Rnd 23: As Rnd 20
Rnds 24 & 25: Cont with yarn B,
as Rnd 6.
Rnd 26: As Rnd 20.
Fasten off and sew in ends.
Sew bottom of first
round in place with END
a few sts.
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 MATERIALS
● Erika Knight Gossypium
Cotton, 100% cotton,
50g/100m/109yds
To make entire set (desk
tidy, pencil pot, coaster and
three bowls):
Yarn A: 2 x 50g balls
Yarn B: 3 x 50g balls
Yarn C: 3 x 50g balls
● 2.5mm, 3mm & 3.5mm hooks
● Stitch marker
● Buttons to decorate (optional)
● Empty and clean 400g tin can
for pencil pot

YARN ALTERNATIVES
Use any aran-weight cotton yarn
that works to same tension.

TENSION
Coaster: Work 20 sts and
23 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in using 3mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
Pencil pot: Work 23 sts and
22 rnds to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in using 2.5mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
Yarn bowls: Work 18 sts and
22 rnds to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in using 3mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
Desk tidy: Work 16 sts and
16 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in using two strands of yarn
held together and 3.5mm hook,
or size required to obtain tension.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Fay combines her love of proper
woolly wool and sustainability in
her designs and podcast. Find Fay
on Instagram @faydhdesigns and
@crochet_circle_podcast.

SPECIAL STITCHES
Starting dc: Remove hook and
replace from other side. Extend
loop a little and make a dc.

Je w e l De s k Tidy Se t PATTERN NOTES

Colour changes are always made
BY FAY DASHPER-HUGHES on the final yrh of last st before
new colour is required. See note
on Intarsia WS where an extra
A quick and easy set of intarsia crochet accessories for
step is required on a WS row.
your craft room or home office. Mix and match your Intarsia RS: When working
colours to go bold and bright or subtle and delicate. intarsia crochet on a RS row
change colour on final yrh of final
ADD TO THE STASH st of outgoing colour.
Buy this pure cotton yarn from Intarsia WS: When working
www.finefettlefibres.uk intarsia crochet on a WS row,
on final yrh of final st, bring old

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 83
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions
colour to front of work, take new
colour to back of work, yrh to
complete st with new colour thus
ensuring non-working (old colour)
yarn remains on WS of work,
ready for when next needed.
Tapestry crochet: Carry non-
working yarn, trapping it down
with every st so that it is ready
at the right place when needed
to change to that colour. This
technique is particularly good if
working in the round for projects
such as the Pencil Pot.
To trap the non-working yarn,
insert hook in st, place non-
working yarn over hook, yrh with
working yarn and complete dc
as normal. Make sure trapped
non-working yarn is not showing
on RS of work. I like to trap the
non-working yarn down on every
st, but you can do it every 2-3
sts if you prefer. This will create
strands/ floats on the WS of
your work.
84 Inside Crochet
Each item uses the following amounts of yarn: rounds as indicated at end of
each pattern over Rnds 25–27 for
Yarn A Yarn B Yarn C Large Bowl and Rnds 18–20 for
Medium Bowl.
COASTER 5g 10g 5g
PENCIL POT 10g 15g 15g LARGE BOWL
Using 3mm hook and yarn C,
SMALL BOWL 15g
4ch, join with sl st to form a ring.
MEDIUM BOWL 25g Rnd 1: 1Starting dc (see Special
Stitches) in ring, pm in this st, 5dc
LARGE BOWL 40g
in ring – 6dc.
DESK TIDY 70g 75g 75g Work in a continuous spiral
without joining moving PM up
each rnd as folls:
Desk Tidy is worked with two Large Bowl: 12cm/4¾in Rnd 2: 2dc in each st around
strands of yarn held together diameter x 7.5cm/3in high. – 12dc.
throughout to create a dense, Medium Bowl: 10cm/4in Rnd 3: [1dc, 2dc in next st]
stiff fabric that will help to keep diameter x 5cm/2in high. around – 18dc.
its structure. Small Bowl: 8.5cm/3¼in Rnd 4: [2dc, 2dc in next st]
diameter x 2.5cm/1in high. around – 24dc.
MEASUREMENTS Desk Tidy: 26cm/10¼in wide Rnd 5: [3dc, 2dc in next st]
Coaster: 11cm/4¼in wide x 11cm/ x 36cm/14¼in long x 4cm/ around – 30dc.
4¼in long. 1½in high. Rnd 6: [4dc, 2dc in next st]
Pencil pot: 25cm/9¾in around – 36dc.
circumference x 10.5cm/ COASTER Rnd 7: [5dc, 2dc in next st]
4¼in high. START Using 3mm hook and around – 42dc.
yarn A, 22ch. Rnd 8: [6dc, 2dc in next st]
Row 1: (RS) 1dc in second ch around – 48dc.
from hook, 1dc in each ch to end, Rnd 9: [7dc, 2dc in next st]
turn – 21dc. around – 54dc.
Row 2: (WS) 1dc in each st to Rnd 10: [8dc, 2dc in next st]
end, turn. around – 60dc.
Rows 3–25: Rep Row 2, changing Rnd 11: [9dc, 2dc in next st]
colour where indicated on around – 66dc.
Coaster Chart (see Pattern Notes). Rnd 12: [10dc, 2dc in next st]
Cut yarn and fasten around – 72dc.
off, weave in ends and END Rnd 13: Dc blo around.
block/starch if required. Rnds 14–26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: Dc around, sl st in next 2
PENCIL POT sts to neatly finish off.
START Using 2.5mm hook and Cut yarn, fasten off and weave
yarn A, 52ch, without in ends.
twisting join to first ch with sl st.
Rnd 1: 1dc in first ch (ie same *Alternative rounds to create yarn
st as sl st), pm, 1dc in each ch bowl button loop for Large Bowl:
around – 52 sts. Rnd 25: Sl st in first 6 sts, dc
Work in a continuous spiral to end.
without joining moving PM up Rnds 26 & 27: Rep Rnd 25.
each rnd as folls: Button Loop: 16ch, sl st in 11th
Rnd 2: Dc around. ch from hook, sl st in next 5 ch, sl
Rnds 3–23: Rep Rnd 2, changing st in rim of bowl to secure button
colours (see Pattern Notes) where loop arm. Check buttonhole is
indicated in Pencil Pot Chart. large enough for button to
Repeat Chart four times around. pass through.
Rnd 24: Dc around, sl st in next 2 Cut yarn, fasten off and weave
sts to neatly finish off. in ends.
Cut yarn, fasten off and weave Sew on button.
in ends. Insert clean tin
can into END MEDIUM BOWL
crocheted sleeve. Using 3mm hook and yarn B,
4ch, join with sl st to form a ring.
BOWLS Follow Rnds 1–10 of Large Bowl
START *To make either the – 60dc.
large or medium bowl Rnd 11: Dc blo around.
into yarn bowls, follow alternative Rnds 12–19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: Dc around, sl st in next
2 sts to neatly finish off.
Cut yarn, fasten off and weave
in ends.
*Alternative rounds to create
button loop for Medium Bowl:
Rnd 18: Sl st in first 6 sts, dc
to end.
Rnds 19 & 20: Rep Rnd 18.
Button Loop: 16ch, sl st in 11th
ch from hook, sl st in next 5 ch,
sl st in rim of bowl to secure
down button loop arm. Check
button hole is large enough for
button to pass through.
Cut yarn, fasten off and weave
in ends. Sew on button.
SMALL BOWL
Using 3mm hook and yarn A,
4ch, join with sl st to form a ring.
Follow Rnds 1–8 of Large Bowl
– 48 sts.
Rnd 9: Dc blo around.
Rnds 10–12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: Dc around, sl st in next
2 sts to neatly finish off.
Cut yarn, fasten off and END
weave in ends.
DESK TIDY
START BASE
Work with two strands
of yarn held together throughout.
Using 3.5mm hook and two
strands of yarn A, 41ch.
Row 1: (RS) 1dc in second ch
from hook and in each ch to end,
turn – 40 sts.
Row 2: (WS) 1Starting dc (see
Special Stitches) in first st, 1dc in
each st to end.
Rows 3–53: Rep Row 2,
changing colours as indicated
in Desk Tidy Chart (see Pattern
Notes on colour changes and
intarsia crochet). When yarns A
and B have been finished, cut
yarn and trap tail ends down with
yarn C sts. Cut yarn C and fasten
off at end of Row 53.
Weave in all ends of base, being
sure to weave in on WS.
SIDES
Sides are worked in dc all around
the base. As height is built, side
inners will become the WS and edge, turn – 186 sts (43 side sts, Row 6: Rep Row 3.
outer edge will be the RS. RS of 40 along starting ch and 22 side Row 7: 1Starting dc, 40dc,
base will be facing up when Desk sts all in yarn A and 31 side sts, dc2tog, 37dc, dc2tog, 21dc,
Tidy is finished. 40 along last row of base and changing back to yarn C on final
10 side sts in yarn C). yrh, cut yarn A, 29dc, dc2tog,
Row 1: (RS) With WS facing, Row 2: (WS) 1Starting dc flo, 1dc 37dc, dc2tog, 9dc, turn – 178 sts.
join two strands of yarn A held flo in each st, changing back to Cut yarn C leaving a
together at top edge of the yarn A at same point as previous 15cm/6in tail.
jewel shape (made using yarn B), row, turn.
1starting dc in same st, 1dc in Row 3: 1Starting dc, 1dc in each FINISHING
each row end down edge (42dc st changing colour at same point Use yarn C tail to sew edges
and 1 starting dc), 40dc along as previous row, turn. of sides together on WS with
starting ch and 22dc up second Row 4: Rep Row 3. mattress stitch or preferred
edge, changing to yarn C on last Row 5: 1Starting dc, 41dc, method.
yrh (at Row 22 of base), cont in dc2tog, 38dc, dc2tog, 21dc Weave in any other ends.
yarn C working 30dc up edge, changing back to yarn C on final To stiffen, spray with
2dc in final edge st, 38dc across yrh, 30dc, dc2tog, 38dc, dc2tog, starch, leave to dry END
top, 2dc in final st and 9dc along 9dc, turn – 182 sts. and then use.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 85
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions

COASTER CHART PENCIL POT CHART

DESK TIDY CHART

86 Inside Crochet
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 MATERIALS
● 4ply weight yarn
Yarn A: Skin colour of
your choice
Yarn B: White
Yarn C: Dark Green
Yarn D: Brown
Yarn E: Dark Pink
Yarn F: Light Pink
Yarn G: Green
(Note: Small amounts only
needed of yarns F and G)
● 2mm hook
● Two safety eyes, 6mm/¼in
● Yarn needle
● Stitch markers
● Toy stuffing

TENSION
Exact tension does not matter for
this design, just ensure that the
stitches are tight enough that the
stuffing does not show through.

MEASUREMENTS
Poppy is 20cm/7½in tall.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Amour Fou (Carla Mitrani) is
a TV producer by day and a
crochet addict by night. She loves
to make dolls she would have
wanted as a little girl herself.
Read our interview with Carla
on page 98.

SPECIAL STITCHES
Inc: 2dc in same stitch.
Invisible decrease (dec): Insert
hook through front loops of
next 2 sts (3 loops on hook), yrh,
pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull
through two loops (counts as
one stitch).

PATTERN NOTES

Po ppy the Pixie Poppy’s body is worked in one

piece from her underwear up to
her head. You’ll crochet the
BY AMOUR FOU
skirt afterwards.

Poppy loves to make a home of whatever she finds in the BODY

woods: mushrooms, flowers, abandoned nests, stones START With yarn B, make an
and the little holes woodpeckers carve in tree trunks. adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: 6dc into ring – 6dc.
Rnd 2: Inc (see Special Stitches)
in all sts – 12dc.
Rnd 3: (Dc in next st, inc in next
st) six times – 18dc.
Rnd 4: (2dc, inc in next st) six
times – 24dc.
This adorable design is
Rnds 5–8: Dc around – 24dc.
taken from Unicorns, Change to yarn A.
Dragons And More Rnd 9: Dc blo around – 24dc.
Fantasy Amigurumi 2
(Meteoor Books, £13.95). Change to yarn B.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 89
➻ MAKE IT Pattern instructions
Rnd 10: Dc in all 24 st – 24dc.
Change to yarn C.
Rnds 11 & 12: Dc blo around
– 24dc.
Rnd 13: Dc around – 24dc.
Rnd 14: (2dc, dec (see Special
Stitches)) six times – 18dc.
Stuff the body with toy stuffing
and continue stuffing as you go.
Rnds 15 & 16: Dc around – 18dc.
Rnd 17: (Dc in next st, dec) six
times – 12dc.
Rnds 18–20: around – 12dc.
Change to yarn A.
Rnd 21: Dc around – 12dc.
Do not fasten off.
Continue with the head.
HEAD
Rnd 22: Inc in all 12 sts – 24dc.
Rnd 23: (4dc, inc in next st) six
times – 30dc.
Rnd 24: (4dc, inc in next st) six
times – 36dc.
Stuff the neck firmly with toy
stuffing.
Rnds 25–34: Dc around – 36dc.
Rnd 35: (4dc, dec) six times
– 30dc.
Insert the safety eyes between
Rnds 27 & 28 of the head, with
an gap of 8 stitches.
Use yarn A to embroider the nose
between the eyes.
Use yarn F to embroider
Poppy’s cheeks.
Rnd 36: (3dc, dec) six times
– 24dc.
Rnd 37: (2dc, dec) six times
– 18dc.
Stuff the head firmly with
toy stuffing.
Rnd 38: (Dc in next st, dec) six
times – 12dc.
Rnd 39: Dec six times – 6dc.
Fasten off and weave in
yarn ends.
PETTICOAT
Turn the body upside down, and
pull up a loop of yarn B in one
of the leftover front loops of
Rnd 11, on the back.
Rnd 1: Dc flo around – 24dc.
Rnd 2: (3dc, inc in next st) six
times – 30dc.
Rnd 3: (4dc, inc in next st) six
times – 36dc.
Rnd 4: (5dc, inc in next st) six
times – 42dc.
Rnds 5–9: Dc around – 42dc.
Rnd 10: (6ch, miss 2 sts, sl st in
next st) around.
Fasten off and weave in the
yarn end.
90 Inside Crochet
SKIRT
Hold the body upside down and
pull up a loop of yarn C in one
of the leftover front loops of Rnd
12, on the back.
Rnd 1: Dc flo around – 24dc.
Rnd 2: (3dc, inc in next st) six
times – 30dc.
Rnd 3: (4dc, inc in next st) six
times – 36dc.
Rnd 4: (5dc, inc in next st) six
times – 42dc.
Rnds 5–10: Dc around – 42dc.
Fasten off and weave in the
yarn end.
Embroider flowers on the skirt
with yarns F and G.
ARM
Make two
With yarn A, make an
adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: 4dc in ring – 4dc.
Rnd 2: Inc in all 4 sts – 8dc.
Rnds 3–19: Dc around – 8dc.
The arm does not need to
be stuffed.
Flatten the arm and work the
next round through both layers
to close.
Rnd 20: Dc in all 4 sts – 4dc.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail
for sewing.
Sew the arms on both sides of
the body, over Rnds 18 & 19.
LEG
Make two
With yarn A, make an
adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: 5dc in ring – 5dc.
Rnd 2: Inc in all 5 sts – 10dc.
Rnds 3–29: Dc around – 10dc.
Stuff the leg lightly with toy
stuffing and continue stuffing as
you go.
Flatten the leg and work the
next round through both layers
to close.
Rnd 30: Dc in all 5 sts – 5dc.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail
for sewing.
Lift the skirt and sew the legs to
the body.
POINTY HAT
With yarn E, make an
adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: 6dc in ring – 6dc.
Rnd 2: Dc around – 6dc.
Rnd 3: Inc in all 6 sts – 12dc.
Rnd 4: Dc around – 12dc.
Rnd 5: (Dc in next st, inc in next
st) six times – 18dc.
Rnd 6: Dc around – 18dc.
Rnd 7: (2dc, inc in next st) six
times – 24dc.
Rnd 8: Dc around – 24dc.
Rnd 9: (3dc, inc in next st) six
times – 30dc.
Rnd 10: (4dc, inc in next st) six
times – 36dc.
Rnd 11: (11dc, inc in next st)
three times – 39dc.
Rnds 12–20: Dc around – 39dc.
Rnd 21: 7dc flo, 26dc, 6dc flo
– 39dc.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail
for sewing.
HAIR
Inside the pointy hat, there are
13 remaining back loops.
Push the edge of the hat a bit
outwards, pull up a loop of
yarn D, and make a dc in the
back loop to the far right.
Crochet in rows.
Row 1: (11ch, start in second ch
from hook, dc in all 10 ch, sl st in
next st on the hat) 12 times
– 12 hair locks.
Fasten off and weave in the
yarn ends.
Sew the pointy hat to the head.
Use yarn D to embroider a fringe
on the forehead.
PIXIE WINGS
Make two
With yarn B, make an
adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: 4dc in ring – 4dc.
Rnd 2: (Dc in next st, inc in next
st) twice – 6dc.
Rnd 3: Dc around – 6dc.
Rnd 4: Inc in all 6 sts – 12dc.
Rnds 5–10: Dc around – 12dc.
Rnd 11: (Dc in next st, dec) four
times – 8dc.
Rnd 12: Dc around – 8dc.
Flatten the wing and work the
next round through both layers
to close.
Rnd 13: Dc in next 4 sts – 4dc.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail
for sewing.
Sew the wings to END
Poppy’s back.
 Yarn Market
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 ➻ HOW TO CROCHET

Howto

Crochet
Create Cassie Ward’s
I have always believed
that anyone can learn to
gorgeous Eclectic crochet, so long as you
Jumper from issue 119,
perfect for experimenting follow one simple rule:
with different stitches
and your own don’t try to run before you
colourways!
can chain! The chain is the
most simple of stitches
and therefore ideal for
practising the all-important hold, which helps create
the perfect tension for forming all the following
stitches. When my mother taught me to crochet,
she followed her grandmother’s lead and helped
me to hook metre upon metre of chain before I
was shown any further stitches. It was a fantastic
foundation for learning the more difficult
techniques. Once your chains are looking even
and feel comfortable to create, then progressing
on to the stitches becomes much easier.
If at any point you feel as if you have lost your
hold, simply go back to those comforting lengths
of chain until your confidence returns. My biggest
tip is to remember that this wonderful craft is well
known for being relaxing and fun, so find a comfy
chair, some free time and just enjoy it!
Happy crocheting…

TEACH
YOURSELF
How to hold the work,
chains, double
& treble crochet,
slip stitch TURN THE PAGE FOR ALL
YOU NEED TO GET STARTED

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 93
 THE BASICS GETTING STARTED
To crochet smoothly and efficiently, you must hold the hook SLIPKNOT CHAIN
and yarn in a relaxed, comfortable and consistent fashion. This
will also ensure that your tension is even and accurate. There A slipknot creates the first Most crochet projects begin
are two main ways of holding the hook and two main ways loop on the hook. with a length of chain. This is
to tension the yarn. You can choose whichever combination the perfect stitch to practise
feels more natural for you, or a variation on these. your hold and tension with.

HOLDING THE HOOK

1 Make a loop in the yarn

around 10–20cm/4–8in from
KNIFE GRIP PENCIL GRIP the end. Insert hook through 1 Holding just the hook with
Hold the hook in your Hold the hook in your loop, catch the back strand point up in your dominant
dominant hand as you dominant hand as you of yarn and pull it through to hand, and the yarn in the
would a knife. would a pencil. the front. other, grip the slipknot
with the yarn holding hand.
Work a yarn round hook
(yrh or yoh) by passing the
HOLDING THE YARN hook in front of the yarn,
under and around it.

2 Pull the ends of the yarn to

FOREFINGER
METHOD
Wrap the ball end of the yarn
around the little finger of
your opposite hand, under
the next two fingers and over
the forefinger. Hold the work
steady with your middle
finger and thumb, then
raise your forefinger when
working to create tension.
MIDDLE-FINGER
METHOD
Wrap the ball end of the
yarn around the little finger
of your opposite hand and
over the other fingers. Hold
the work steady with your
forefinger and thumb, then
raise your middle finger
while you are crocheting to
create tension.
secure the knot around the
hook, but not too tightly or
it will be hard to pull the first
loop of chain through.
2 Roll the hook round in
your fingers towards you
to catch the yarn and pull
through loop on hook.
One chain made.

The action of working

To croch e t le ft-h and ed,
simply do the opp osit e to
.
the righ t-h and ed hol ds
Hold a mirror up to any
p ic ture in this gu ide
to
see how to wor k.
stitches causes a
constan t rolling of the
hook in your fingers;
hold the hook pointin g
up when performing
It doesn’t ma t te r
if your the yrh, then roll it
sti tch es te nd tow
ar ds round towards you
be in g sli gh tly tig
ht or to point down when
ev en a lit tle loose;
you ar e pulling through the
ai mi ng for an ev loops so that you 3 Ensuring the stitches
en te nsion
th roughout to ac
hi ev e a don’t catch the hook are even – not too loose
pr of ession al fin ish in the stitches. or tight – repeat to make
.
a length of chain.

94 Inside Crochet

THE MAIN STITCHES
SLIP STITCH
(sl st)
A slip stitch is usually used to
join one stitch to another, or to
join a stitch to another point.
It is generally made by picking
up two strands of a stitch but
when used all over, you usually
only pick up the back loop.
1 Insert hook into st or chain
required. Yarn over hook, as
when you make a chain. Pull
a loop through all stitches/
loops/work on hook to finish
slip stitch.
COUNTING
A CHAIN
The right side of your chain is
the one that looks like a little
plait of “v” shapes. Each “v” is
a stitch and must be counted.
When you are working the
chain, you do not count the
slipknot, but begin to count
your chain when you pull
through the first loop. To count
the chain afterwards you
count the slipknot as the first
stitch, but not the loop on the
hook, or “working” loop.
➻ HOW TO CROCHET
This adorable
Cupcake Ella
amigurumi by Lydia
Tresselt (issue 100)
uses simple dc
stitches for a
sweet finish!
Double crochet stitches
are perfect for m aking
am igurum i, w hile treble
crochets are used to
create the classic
granny square design
DOUBLE CROCHET (dc)
The smallest stitch, creating a dense fabric perfect for amigurumi.
1 Insert hook into
chain or stitch, front to
back. Yarn over hook
and draw through
stitch to front, leaving
you with two loops
on the hook. Yarn
round hook.
2 Draw through both
loops to finish the
stitch. Double
crochet completed.
HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr)
Slightly taller than a double crochet stitch, with a softer drape to the resulting fabric.
1 Yarn over hook, insert
hook into st from front
to back and draw loop
through stitch only.
This gives you three
loops on the hook.
Yarn round hook.
2 Draw yarn through
three remaining loops
on the hook together
to complete half treble.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 95

Top crochet websites
www.thepetalshed.uk
➻ Hattie Risdale’s beautiful site is a riot
of gorgeous colour combinations, floral
mandalas and on-trend homewares.
Uplifting, inspiring and fun!
www.lookatwhatimade.net
➻ Inside Crochet designer Dedri Uys sets
out to inspire with her website of tutorials,
free patterns and CAL information.
www.haakmaarraak.nl
➻ Scheepjes blogger Kirsten Ballering’s
website offers lots of bright homewares
inspiration with plenty of free patterns.
www.lovecrafts.com
➻ LoveCrafts isn’t just a great value shop for
yarn, hooks and patterns, it also has a
thriving Community section where you can
share projects and a blog full of tutorials.
www.ravelry.com
➻ A crochet and knitting community site
with almost seven million members, Ravelry
is your one-stop site for indie patterns, yarn
information, forums and project galleries.
96 Inside Crochet
TREBLE CROCHET
(tr)
The tallest of the basic
stitches, great for using within
more complex patterns.
1 Yarn round hook, insert hook
into stitch from front to back
and draw loop through stitch
only. This gives you three loops
on the hook. Yarn round hook.
2 Pull loop through two loops.
Two loops on hook. Yarn
round hook.
3 Pull loop through the
remaining two loops to
complete treble, repeat to
end of row.
FASTEN OFF
Pull up final loop of last stitch to make it bigger
and cut the yarn, leaving enough of an end to
weave in. Pull end through loop, and pull up
tightly to secure.
COUNTING STITCHES
Count the post or “stem” of each stitch from the
side of your work. Each post counts as one stitch.
Double crochet
Treble crochet
Try t o coun t your st it ches a t regu
lar
int erva ls, usua lly a t the end of
ever y,
or ever y othe r, row and esp ecia lly
a f t er an incr ea se or decr ea se row.
It is b est t o try t o ca t ch any mist
ake s
a s q uick ly a s p ossib le, a s this will
mak e them muc h ea sier t o rect i fy!
 ➻ HOW TO CROCHET

ABBREVIATIONS A note
on... Hook sizes
Note: Inside Crochet uses UK terms throughout
➻ Hook sizes and their designations vary
alt · alternate etr · extended treble prev · previous from country to country. When following
bef · before est · established rem · remain(s); remaining the recommendations in a pattern or on
beg · begin(s); beginning fdc · foundation double rep(s) · repeat(s) a ball band, make sure to check which
size convention is being used.
bet · between crochet rev dc · reverse double
blo · back loop only flo · front loop only crochet CROCHET HOOK SIZES
ch(s) · chain(s) foll · follows; following rnd(s) · round(s)
ch-sp(s) · chain space(s) ftr · foundation treble RS · right side Metric (mm) UK US
cl(s) · cluster(s) crochet rtrf · raised treble front 0.6 14
cm · centimetre(s) g · gram(s) rtrb · raised treble back 0.75 12
cont · continue(s); gp(s) · group(s) sl · slip
1 11
continuing hk · hook sl st · slip stitch
1.25 7
dc · double crochet htr · half treble crochet sp(s) · space(es)
dc2tog · work two dc htr2tog · work two htr st(s) · stitch(es) 1.5 6
together together t-ch(s) · turning chain(s) 1.75 5
dec(s) · decrease(s); inc(s) · increase(s); tog · together 2 14
decreasing; decreased increasing; increased tr · treble crochet 2.25 B/1
dtr · double treble crochet in · inch(es) trtr · triple treble 2.5 12
dtr2tog · work two dtr lp(s) · loop(s) tr2tog · work two trebles 2.75 C/2
together m · stitch marker together
3 10
ea · each mm · millimetre(s) WS · wrong side
3.25 D/3
ech · extended chain nc · not closed yd(s) · yard(s)
edc · extended double patt · pattern yoh · yarn over hook 3.5 9 E/4
crochet pm · place marker yrh · yarn round hook 3.75 F/5
4 8 G/6
4.5 7 7
BREAKING THE LANGUAGE BARRIER 5 6 H/8
UK and US terms have differing meanings which can create difficulty for the 5.5 5 I/9
crocheter. Here’s a handy reference guide to overcome any misunderstandings. 6 4 J/10
6.5 3 K-/101/2
UK TERMS US TERMS 7 2
Chain Chain 8 0 L/11
Miss Skip
9 00 M /13
Slip stitch Slip stitch
10 000 N/15
Double crochet Single crochet
11.5 O
Half treble crochet Half double crochet
Treble crochet Double crochet 12 P
Double treble crochet Treble crochet 15 Q
Triple treble crochet Double treble crochet 20 S
Raised treble back/front Back/front post dc

CHARTS KEY
adjustable ring fl only tr rtrf tr2tog 3-tr cl
sl st dc
dtr tr3tog popcorn
ch fdc rtrb

bl only htr puff linked tr

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www.insidecrochet.co.uk 97
➻ FINAL THOUGHT
Above: Carla lives in Buenos
Aires and developed a
passion for designing dolls
after attending a workshop
by Yan Schenkel.
Below: Carla captures
personality in her amazing
amigurumi designs with the
hair, and then the clothes.
98 Inside Crochet
Carla Mitrani
A TRUE PASSION
WE CHAT TO CARLA (AMOUR FOU) ABOUT INSPIRATION,
STRESS-BUSTING CROCHET AND BREATHING LIFE INTO DESIGNS…
Tell us about your life… I live in Buenos Aires,
Argentina. I’m 40 years old, married to an
agriculture engineer and we have two children,
both boys, both redheads.
How did you learn to crochet? I took a two-
month workshop with Yan Schenkel, the creative
mastermind behind Pica Pau, about eight years
ago. It was a gift I gave myself during my
maternity leave and it changed my life forever!
How did you get into crochet design? It was
kind of a natural process to me. After taking the
workshop with Yan, I couldn’t stop crocheting. It
became a therapy to me, a true passion. I would
look for patterns and crochet dolls for my boys and
my friends’ children. And slowly I started
tweaking some of those patterns till one day I
decided I would do a character of my own from
zero. I drew it on a sheet of paper and had to
remember the multiplication tables I learned in
school. That first doll was called Lelio.
Is designing your “day job”? No, it’s not. I am
a journalist and I currently work as producer of a
weekly talk show on national politics. In a country
like mine there’s always a political storm in the
making, so I definitely don’t get bored, but
crocheting is the perfect way to decompress. It’s
funny because almost no one in my work circle
knows of my secret identity as a doll designer!
How would you describe your design style?
I like to think that my style is simple, yet
recognisable. I want everyone to be able to crochet
my patterns and be happy with the final result.
How do you go about capturing
personality in an ami design? I believe the
hair does the trick. Every time I think of a new
doll, and I mostly do human dolls, I need to solve
how I would do the hair. Will it have curls? Will it
be long? Or short? Then come the clothes. But
deciding on the hair is always key for me.
What’s your top crochet technique?
I crochet extra tight! I do so because I like to build
“I love being able to make
tangible something I have in my
head, to feel it, to make it real.”
a sturdier fabric to hold the stuffing, but mainly
because crocheting is my way to decompress.
Through the hook, I let all of my worries go… the
more stressful the day, the tighter I crochet!
What is your favourite thing about being a
designer? I love being able to make tangible
something I have in my head, to feel it, to make it
real. I kind of feel like Geppetto. I only need the fairy
godmother to breathe life into them…
What inspires you? Many things. A good book, an
amazing character in a movie, a conversation with
my mother, watching my boys play. I think one must
always be ready, paper and pencil at hand, because
anything can spark your imagination. And I also
think that you should let it run wild. If you like what
you imagine, go for it! I believe we must always
crochet what makes us happy, without caring if
others will like it too. Just follow your gut!
Which other designers do you admire?
I will be eternally thankful to crochet for having
introduced me to many amazing designers around
the world. We make a wonderful community of
friends, we support each other, we celebrate our
makes and milestones and protect our work like
guardian angels. And all this is done with such
passion and generosity… it fills my heart.
What are your plans for the future? I’m having
my first book published this October and to me it’s
a dream come true. It will feature 15 patterns
honouring iconic women from the past and the
present. You’ll find tributes to Marie Curie, Jane
Austen, Ruth Bader Ginsburg and Malala Yousafzai,
among others. It was an amazing challenge and
really fun to make. It involved lots of research and
reading, which as a journalist comes naturally to me,
and many different hair styles
and historical wardrobes! I am
so excited for you all to see it!
View more of Carla’s
stunning amigurumi
designs on Instagram,
@amourfou_crochet.
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