The Art and Craft of LEATHER

Maria Teresa Llado I Riba

Eva Pascual I Miro
Faisal Mansuri PD000816

Indigenous Vividness
Humans have been using leather and leather products for centuries and the material has found
an indigeneity and belongingness for different regions depending on the type of leather
available and the practices adamant in the region. Spanish cordovan, Moroccan leather and
Russian Muscovite leather come from very different contexts and vary in the finishes and
artistic applications the most noted and the ones discussed in the book being Cordovan which
uses techniques such as carving, embossing, gliding, Guadamecei being an art technique used
for various wall coverings, renaissance themed pilasters, columns, capitals and arches embarks
a feeling of luxury on the product. Ferretado involves covering the surface with metal sheets
either gold or silver predominantly used.
Leather paneled walls had become a necessity more than ornamentation purposes as it
provided insulation against the harsh weather and soon became a substitute for tapestries in
silk and gold. The utility and ingenuity of the material resulted in increasing use of the material
in different aspects of interiors and furniture items. Storage pieces like the Chests, Boxes,
Trunks, Folding screens, Writing desks, Chairs all started using leather as a way to protect the
interiors due to the resilience of the material helping protect the interiors as well as a sense of
luxury and prestige.
Leather Art has been explored and conceived differently across various regions, as contrast to
the west there were Puppets, Boxes, Bottles being made with different religious motifs. African
shields and animal masks made of Antelope leather mostly had nature motifs depicted.
In addition the book discusses about the structure of leather and the properties associated with
leather obtained from different regions of the animals hide. Epidermis, Dermis and Endodermis
being the different layers of an animals hide. Leather could either be obtained from the
shoulder, Bend, Belly or the sides of the animal depending upon the property of the leather
required.
The book continues to explain the different traditional and modern tanning methods from
preserving the raw hides, soaking, Deliming and Bating, Vegetable tannage, Pickling and chrome
tannage, Dyeing and fatliquoring, drying and mechanical operations and finishing. The
advantages and disadvantage of different tanning processes as compared to the other and its
effect on the environment and the lifestyle of the people carrying the task. Tanners are
generally disregarded as smelly, dirty and rough the ones spreading diseases and were forced
to live in the outskirts of the city. The possibilities of avoiding pollution through different means
that could actually help boost the industry.
Chrome tanned leather has characteristic advantages and any color can be applied through
different processes. Vegetable tanning can be used for shades of brown and colors ranging
from white to pink, vegetable is distinctly environment friendly than the other process.
The various uses of parchment and different types of sheepskin vegetable tanned, chamois oil
tanned and the various processes that could result in to suede leather, split leather, Nappa,
Sole, Insole, Hair on leather. Wax coated Cotton, linen and Hemp chords are generally used for
sewing purposes. The different types of adhesives used for different processes on leather
whether it be stiffening, hardening or adhesion. Further the variety of finishes on the surface of
leather like Asphaltum which gives an aged patina effect, turpentine, wax which gives a glossy
effect and finally finished with paints dyes and markers.
The book gives an insight of the tools used for different processes like Drive punches, Thonging
chisel, Swivel knife, Adjustable Gouge, Skivers, Chisels, Shears, Cutters and Scalpels and theses
materials can be used for different embossing and stamping techniques. Die cutting, Gouging,
Stamping, Pyrography, photoengraving and Repousse have been discussed with proper
examples.
Finally to conclude the book a mask, a woven basket, a tray with a mosaic, Clock with
appliques, Coin caddy and a box with Repousse have been made using different lacing and
sewing techniques, adhesives, different geometries, variety of leather and the variety of
finishing techniques that can be used for these products, Carved beautifully with utmost
precision.
Maria Terasa Llado I riba a multifaceted artist and Eva Pascal I Mirohas a degree in art history,
the authors have come together in a commendable yet a very simplistic way of using leather
and the wide variety and range of products and finishes associated with leather. The step by
step process includes a detailed study which makes it easy for the reader to make an intangible
relation with the author.