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Guideline For Production and Quality Control 4296
Guideline For Production and Quality Control 4296
Guidelines for
Production & Quality control
-Garments
Quality Department
December 2007
WHY HAVE H&M PUBLISHED GPQ? ............................................................... 3
GENERAL ...................................................................................................... 4
3. COLOUR .................................................................................................... 8
3.1 Colour evaluation –visual method ..................................................................... 8
3.2 Illuminants .................................................................................................... 8
3.3 Colour continuity record .................................................................................. 8
4 LIGHTING .................................................................................................. 9
H&M has published Guidelines for Production and Quality control with the goal to reach an
acceptable quality standard together with the H&M suppliers.
The intention is that you as an H&M supplier will use GPQ to solve problems as early as
possible by:
• Trying to foresee potential problems.
• Taking preventive action before bulk production starts.
To reach the goal, an acceptable quality standard, H&M recommends the suppliers to:
• Have staff with relevant education suitable for their task.
• Keep records over all parts involved in the goods e.g. fabric, accessories, packing material,
hangers.
• Keep inspection records throughout the production
Both you as an H&M supplier and the H&M customer will benefit when H&M’s goal of an
acceptable quality standard is reached. Defects will be avoided, and the quantity of rejected
goods reduced.
Summary
As a rule, point out a potential problem as early as possible in the production, start at the
production planning and sample stage. Continue quality control throughout the production and
do not stop until the goods are dispatched.
The aim is to visually and technically inspect all goods in order to verify their general
conformity and appearance with all official H&M documents and H&M approved sealed counter
sample.
Use records to analyze. Learn from your mistakes to prevent problems from recurring. Do not
only measure percentage of defectives.
The GPQ sets out the minimum Quality Control required for producing goods consistently to
H&M Regulations, Requirements, Restrictions, Conditions and Standards. H&M or an
independent company will make various tests on counter samples, production samples and
incoming deliveries to make sure above procedures are followed.
H&M requires systems and procedures for in-line inspections at all stages of production and a
final Quality Control report of all H&M orders to assure that the required quality is reached.
H&M QC staff will routinely visit suppliers during the manufacturing process to monitor and
assure that H&M’s Quality Standards and Requirements are being maintained. H&M staff
should be provided easy access to all goods and records at any time before, during and after
the production.
It is the supplier’s responsibility to ensure that all H&M official documents are
communicated to the yarn, fabric and accessory suppliers.
All samples sent to the H&M local office must have a hang-tag with:
• Order and Department number
• Supplier and factory name
• Sample name e.g. Q/S (Quotation sample)
• Measurement list, Pattern or Fitting block used.
• Date
• Specify if bulk or sample yardage is used. If size, colour, print etc. are correct.
1.4 Dummies
Approved dummies with CEN/H&M standard body measurements should be used for fitting of
samples before they are sent to H&M local office.
For detailed information regarding H&M Approved Dummies see: H&M Fitting Dummies
found under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier,
For easy identification, H&M will attach a numbered plastic seal to the approved counter
sample before returning it to the supplier with Measurement list and comments.
The order is not valid until the Counter sample has been approved.
The production may start only after receiving;
Counter Sample approval and the Sealed Counter Sample.
2. How to Measure
H&M requires that all suppliers measure all types of garments in the exact same way as H&M.
Detailed measuring instructions for different product types are found in How to Measure
under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier
Colours are evaluated visually in light box with the support of instrumental evaluation by use
of a spectrophotometer.
Physical standard = visual evaluation in light box on a colour cutting.
Numeric standard = instrumental evaluation by use of a spectrophotometer.
More information regarding Colour is found in several languages under Production and Quality
Control in HM Supplier Colour Guidebook at: H&M supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier
3.2 Illuminants
H&M’s required illuminants must be used in the light box for all colour evaluation:
• H&M “Shop light” TL83
• Daylight D65
• A-light (tungsten, light bulb) – indoor home light
• UV light - check for Optical brighteners (OBA)
Specification regarding Colour Temperature (Kelvin), Colour Rendering Index (CRI) and Lumen
(Lm) are found in the HM Supplier Colour Guidebook.
For washed garments the H&M supplier must stitch all roll swatches together, to a
patchwork (blanket), marked with roll number, and wash according to specification.
After wash a shade-band for each family of shades should be created from the patchwork
(blanket) before cutting. Recorded with order number, family number, dye lot, roll number,
date, and planned country.
For heavy/fine knit, the yarn from different dye lots should be knitted into swatches in order
to sort the different shades into families prior to knitting.
A shade-band for each family of shades should be created and recorded with order number,
family number, dye lot, weight, date and planned country.
It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to make sure there is correct lighting at the different
work areas in the factory.
To provide correct lighting factory must:
• Make full use of daylight.
• Provide suitable light for the work performed.
• Use the right lighting device and fixture.
• Find the correct placement of the light source, appropriate light height and direction
suitable for the task performed.
• Avoid shadows and glare.
• Ensure regular maintenance e.g. cleaning of lamps, lamp replacement schedule.
• Measure work area light with a Light meter and follow recommended Lux values
Recommended Lux-values:
Department Minimum Lux
Fabric/Accessory Checking 1000
Inspection/Quality Control
Cutting/Sewing 750
Ironing 500
Warehouse for: 250
Fabric/Accessory/Finished product
Fabric inspection records must be available for H&M and kept for minimum 6 months.
The 4 Point System is named from a basic grading rule; regardless of length/size or
number of defects, no more than 4 penalty points may be assigned on any linear
meter/yard.
The inspection procedure must include a control of:
• Full width cutting (shade control), check by folding or sewing: Side to side, side-centre-
side, beginning- end
• Weight, on 10% of rolls chosen for inspection, a minimum of 10 rolls must be checked
• Cuttable width, checked at beginning, middle and end of each roll chosen for inspection
• Roll length, verification against stated length on roll ticket
• Splices
• Fabric odours
• Bowing and skewing
Yarn inspection records must be available for H&M and kept for minimum 6 months.
Rejected fabric/yarn must be marked and stored separate to avoid mix up.
• Metal accessories must be nickel tested and must not exceed limit given in H&M
Chemical Restrictions.
• Press & jeans buttons, rivets etc; fabric quality, interlining and number of layers must
be specified to accessory supplier. A Data-sheet should be obtained. Upon delivery, test
the strength of attachment, length of pin etc. on a mock-up sample. For babies’ and
children’s garments a Pull force test must be done. See point 6.3.
• Interlining; control shrinkage and test bond strength both before and after wash test.
• Threads must be in correct quality to keep its strength, also after heavy garment washes.
• Elastic must have suitable elasticity, acceptable expiry date, be relaxed and pre-shrunk
e.g. tumble dried or steamed before sewn into the garment.
• Care label print must be wash-proof and readable during the useful life of the product.
• Buttons for all garments must be attached with a lockstitch machine.
• Stoppers must fit the draw-string, spring must be ferrous free.
Inspection should include controls and tests suitable for the trimmings e.g.:
• Overall appearance and general quality check for; cracks, sharp edges, strength, etc.
• Visual colour evaluation in Light box; compare colour and colour shades against Trim
card/Counter Sample. If not contrast colour, check if the colour of different parts in the
same product matches in all 3 light sources.
• Test the colour fastness with a Dry rubbing test: rub the item with white cloth
minimum 10 cycles.
• Test the bleeding with a Bleeding test: Dip the item in water, wrap or tie it around
white cloth for 5 minutes. Records must be kept for 6 months.
• Test the Staining by attaching all trimmings on a finished or dummy garment before
wash test.
• Size and grading; measure that it is correct in all sizes of e.g. zipper, drawstring etc.
• Metal accessories for Babies’ and Children’s wear must be tested individually for
ferrous and also be passed through the needle detector as a finished product before bulk
production starts.
The inspection will show whether the entire lot is acceptable or not depending on the quality of
the samples inspected.
All trim inspection, control and test records must be kept for minimum 6 months.
Information regarding Children Safety is found in H&M Safety Requirements for Babies
and Children under Commitments at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier
The supplier should Wash test the garment according to care instruction. Follow instructions
given in the H&M Lab Manual under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier
Control after wash:
• Over all appearance
• Shrinkage
• Twisting, staining, cross staining etc.
• Dry and wet rubbing
A process controller:
• Is responsible for approx. 30-35 machines/operators/workers.
• Evaluates the work of each operator/worker minimum 2 times a day.
• Inspects difficult processes more often according to Sample responsible’s advice or from a
Pre production decision.
• Audits 7 pieces picked at random from the operator/worker.
• Returns them to the operator/worker if no defects are found.
• Keeps a record.
7.7 Knitting
• All panels in one garment should be knitted on the same machine.
• Light tables and cones must be used for control of panels and garments.
• QC’s must work on the production floor. Supervisors must ambulate the floor.
• Production must be stopped when a problem occur. The problem source must be found
and solved before production can start again. Records must be kept by supervisor.
• Mechanics should take care of the machine maintenance. All machines should be checked
on a regular basis. A service contract with the machine company is recommended.
• The machine operators are responsible that their machine runs according to standard. In
case of problems the supervisor or mechanic should be contacted.
• Instructions or guides that can help the operator to keep consistent quality are
recommended.
Information regarding Needle and sharp object control is found in H&M Guideline for needle
and sharp object control under Commitments at H&M supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier
8.1 Trimming
Final trimming must be done in the finishing area before packing. All trimmed loose threads
must be permanently removed.
8.2 Pressing
• Pressing instruction must be given.
• Supervisors must ambulate the floor.
• Heat must be adjusted depending of material and style.
• To avoid shine marks, a Teflon shoe must be used.
• Press table cover must be exchanged regularly.
• To keep quality consistent; tape measure, measurement list etc. are recommended.
• For heavy and fine knit, a mould should be used, in order to maintain the correct shape.
9.2 Storage
• New unused cartons should be stored covered on pallets, to prevent them from being
damaged and soiled.
• Packed cartons must be stored country wise fully positioned on pallets.
• Hanging shipments should be stored country wise, by size and colour. Goods should be
covered with appropriate poly-bags/packaging materials.
The goods must be inspected, tested and records must be kept after each major stage of
production e.g.
• Fabric/Yarn inspection: Shade deviation, colour against standard, fabric defects,
shrinkage.
• Cutting/knitting: Parts and panels size conformance, fabric or knit defects.
• Pre-assembly: General workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. stitching,
linking, collars, sleeves, position of pockets, prints and embroideries.
• Assembly: General workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. stitching, linking,
pockets, zippers, position and fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes.
• Finishing/pressing: Position and fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes, overall
workmanship, pressing appearance and measurements.
• Pull force test of buttons and accessories: Babies’ and children’s garments must be
tested on a SafQ button and accessory testing machine every 4th hour during production.
Defects should be marked with e.g. arrow stickers. All problems identified during internal
inspections or during inspections by H&M QC staff, must be corrected immediately by supplier.
Supplier must have a follow up procedure to ensure the problems are permanently solved.
Problems must not be present at next internal inspection, or during next H&M QC inspection.
Inspection forms used must show same information as the H&M inspection reports. The
reports must be kept for review by visiting H&M QC staff, or sent to H&M on request.
Suppliers who use subcontractors for production must have their own QC’s working at the
subcontractors. It is the supplier’s responsibility to make sure that the subcontractor follows all
H&M’s Official documents found at H&M Supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier
Pick by random samples of finished goods from the finishing section in all sizes and colours
from all countries. The inspection will show whether the entire lot is acceptable or not
depending on the quality of the samples inspected.
It is the sole responsibility of the supplier to ensure that all goods are consistent with:
• Approved Counter Sample
• H&M Order contract
• Official documents found at H&M Supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier
• H&M graded measurement list
• Colours must be evaluated according to Counter Sample
Pay special attention to the following:
• Correct information on price tags
• Correct assortment in poly bags
• Correct colour and quantity in cartons
• Correct filling level
• Correct marked cartons
• Correct swing tickets on hanging goods
• No unnecessary master poly bags
Use the record for comparison with previous inspection results and for analysis to help identify
areas that need improvement. It might be required to send copies of the final inspection report
to the local H&M office for review.
In those cases when H&M perform Final Inspection, easy access should be provided to all
goods, allowing random samples to be taken for inspections.
If a critical defect is found when inspecting, the entire production must be rejected and 100%
reinspected by the supplier’s independent QC-team.
However, if consistent minor defects occur, which affect the overall appearance of the goods,
stop the process and contact the H&M local production office.
Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics; ASTM D5430 (4-point
fabric inspection) http://www.astm.org
Improving working conditions and productivity in the garment industry / Juan Carlos Hiba
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/support/publ/pindex.htm