THE HISTORY D oc u me ntati on

ALL ABOUT FASHION

01 Model

02 1850
03 1900
04 1920
05 1940
06 1950
07 1960
08 1970
09 1980
10 1990
11 2000-2010
12 2014
13 2016
14 2017
15 India
Contents
MODEL

A model is a person with a role either

to promote, display or advertise
commercial products or to serve
as a visual aid for people who are
creating works of art or to pose for
photography.

In the nineteenth century, the first

living mannequins, or “manikins,” took
their name from the static dummy or
lay figure they were soon to replace
as the principal form of display in the
dress-maker’s salon. While the word
“mannequin”-in French, le mannequin-
described the woman, the word
“model”- le modèle-designated the
gown she exhibited in the salon.

-1- History of Modelling

1850 : The First Modern Model

In the mid 1800s, Charles Frederick

Worth, the world’s first couturier, also
became the first designer to use live
models instead of mannequins to
market his clothing.

Charles Frederick Worth had his wife

wear his designs in order to showcase
them to customers. The idea of ‘live’
models, as opposed to mannequins,
quickly grew in popularity, springing
up in fashion houses across England.
Modelling was undertaken as a practical
display tool. Women of various sizes
and shapes would demonstrate the
versatility of the designer and appeal
to an array of customers.

-2- History of Modelling

1900 : Models or Mannequins?

Confusing thing: In the early days, live

models were still called “mannequins,”
like in this 1925 New York Times
headline: “Berlin Society Girls Work as
Mannequins.” It means as live models
in a fashion salon, but yeah, that’s
what they used the word mannequin
for back then.

Lady Duff Gordon of Lucille’s grooms

young women. Models not received in
polite society.

-3- History of Modelling

1920 : First Modelling agency and School

By the 1920s, modeling had become

more of a visible job choice for women,
with department stores and retailers
across the U.S. regularly staging
fashion shows with live models, and
referring to them more as “models”
than as “mannequins.” Then, in New
York City in 1923, John Powers opened
the very first modeling agency.

Here, we see women at a “modeling

school” by Tyra and J. Alexander in
Berlin in 1928. They’re practicing their
posture by standing one-footed with
books on their heads.

-4- History of Modelling

1940 : Modelling Connections

In the mid 19th century, the most in-

demand photographers could really
affect which models were in demand,
too, by specifically requesting to
work with those models. Here,
photographer Horst P. Horst works
with Lisa Fonssagrives, one of the
biggest models of the 1940s. 1946
beheld the advent of the biggest
modelling agency, Ford Models.
After the invention of photography,
modelling as a profession really took
off. Ford Models remains one of the
most prestigious agencies in the world.

Model Dorian Leigh was one of the

most popular models of the time, and
appeared on no fewer than six Vogue
covers. Fiona Campbell-Walter, one of
photographer Cecil Beaton’s favorite
models, struts her stuff during a run-
through for a fashion show.

-5- History of Modelling

1950 : Big Name Models

Bettina is one of the earliest cases

of a model who went by only her
first name. She appeared on tons of
magazine covers and designers loved
her; in fact, Hubert de Givenchy was so
fond of her that he named his hugely
popular Bettina blouse after her.

This was the decade where ‘big

name’ models really began to appear.
The 50s was the era that Marilyn
Monroe catapulted to fame, making
her film debut after having modelled
throughout the 40s.

Suzy Parker, in 1957, was the first model

to earn $100,000 per year. When Miss
Parker posed in one of fashion’s first
bikini shots, America noticed. Dovima,
another first-name-only model, in 1957.
Dovima was known for personifying
“the haughty, regal look of the 1950s”.

-6- History of Modelling

1960 : Twiggy and Black Models

No one embodies the spirit of Mod

quite like Peggy Moffitt, L.A.’s own
1960s-era muse. The striking Moffitt
was such a good example of how a
model could really represent the larger
aesthetic that was fashionable at the
time. The strict separation between
house mannequins and photographic
models began to be eroded and the
proliferation of media images of the
young, beautiful, and fashionable in
the 1960s ensured that photographic
models like Jean Shrimpton (“the
Shrimp”) and Twiggy became iconic
figures of their times. Twiggy’s
immense popularity and her famously
thin figure marked a shift away from
curvy models to a more slender
physique.

A pioneer of the industry, Naomi Sims

became the first black woman to cover
Ladies Home Journal in November
1968. Donyale Luna was the world’s
first black supermodel.
-7- History of Modelling
1970 : Beverly, Cheryl and Iman

Beverly Johnson became the first

African American model to cover
American Vogue in 1974, a huge leap
for an industry that had previously
underrepresented minorities.

Cheryl Tiegs became known for her

“girl next door” image and was the
first model to ever land a second
Sports Illustrated cover. in the ‘70s as
well. She got her first big break with a
swimsuit ad in Seventeen magazine.

Iman also helped shape the ever-

growing world of high fashion in the
‘70s. Designers such as Calvin Klein
and Thierry Mugler have cited Iman as
their muse. Christie Brinkle graced the
cover of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit
Issue for three years in a row and also
became the face of CoverGirl.

-8- History of Modelling

1980 : Naomi, Cindy and Linda

In 1983, Ines de la Fressange became

the first “exclusive” model for haute
couture house Chanel, which was a
pretty big deal. Here she is walking the
Chanel runway like yeah, she knows
it’s a big deal.

Naomi Campbell rose to fame as a

teenager, landing the cover of British
ELLE. By the late 1980s, Campbell,
along with Christy Turlington and Linda
Evangelista became known as the
“Trinity.” In 1988, she became the first
black model with the support of her
industry friend and mentor, Yves Saint
Laurent. With Cindy Crawford, the
girl-next-door-gone-glam look soared
in popularity. Chanel was a big deal,
but really it was Guess, which Claudia
Schiffer became the face of in 1989,
propelling her to super-stardom. Linda
Evangelista often referred to as “the
chameleon” of the modeling industry.
Her iconic short haircut became known
as “The Linda”.
-9- History of Modelling
1990 : Tyra, Kate and Big Six

Tyra Banks was one of the first models

to make the crossover into acting.
In her first runway season, she was
booked in 25 shows at the 1991 Paris
Fashion Week. Then, in 1993, she
appeared in seven episodes of The
Fresh Prince of Bel Air.

The red Versace dress Cindy Crawford

wore to the 63rd Academy Awards in
1991 had a major influence on fashion.
Naomi Campbell, along with Christy
Turlington and Linda Evangelista
became known as the “Trinity” and
with the later addition of Kate Moss,
Cindy Crawford, and Claudia Schiffer,
they became the “Big Six” in the 1990s.

The mid-1990s swung in the opposite

direction with the advent of the Waif,
or ‘Heroin Chic’ look encapsulated
by models such as Kate Moss. This
ultra-slender body type was favoured
throughout the editorial scenes of New
York and London.
- 10 - History of Modelling
2000-2010 : Modern Modelling World

With her distinctive red hair and

porcelain doll complexion, Lily Cole
attracted significant attention. In 2004,
she was named “Model of the Year” at
the British Fashion Awards.

In addition to holding the record for

opening and closing the most shows
in one season, Daria Werbowy landed
the Prada fall 2003 campaign and
graced the cover of Vogue Italia three
times over—all in her first season.

Aussie beauty Miranda Kerr—the first

Australian Victoria’s Secret model—is
an excellent example of someone who
was able to make the crossover from
lingerie to high fashion.

Karlie Kloss is the Renaissance woman

of the modern modeling world. In
her career, she has done everything
from high-end designer shows to ad
campaigns to the Victoria’s Secret
Fashion.
- 11 - History of Modelling
2014 : New Big Names

The 2010s onwards have seen

increasingly diverse models rise to
fame, with individuals of all races,
genders, sizes, and shapes dominating
the scene. Social media has become an
increasingly utilized channel through
which to connect with celebrities and
their daily lives.

Emily Ratajkowski popped up on the

infamous “Blurred Lines” video. Since
then, she’s successfully made the
transition from music video babe to
runway model and Hollywood actress.

Transgender woman Lea T. became

model and muse to Riccardo Tisci. In
2014, she became the face of American
haircare brand Redken, thus making
her the first openly transgender model
to front a global beauty brand. LOVE
editor Katie Grand deemed Kendall
Jenner the “’It girl’ of the season” in
2014.

- 12 - History of Modelling
2016 : The Evolution

There’s been a staggering uptick

in the popularity and influence of
independent fashion bloggers in
recent years.

Sisters are having a moment in fashion,

as Olivier Rousteing highlighted in
Balmain’s fall 2015 ad campaign, which
featured chic siblings Kendall and Kylie
Jenner, Gigi and Bella Hadid, and Joan
and Erika Smalls.

Jaden Smith blurred gender lines

when he appeared in the spring
2016 ad campaign for Louis Vuitton
womenswear wearing a skirt.

Ashley Graham made history as the

first plus-size model to appear on the
cover of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit
Issue She connects with millions of fans
over Instagram to spread her positive
messaging about self-love and body
acceptance.

- 13 - History of Modelling
2017 : InstaGirls

With social media followings across

Instagram, Twitter, and Snapchat far
exceeding 100 million, models like
Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner have
garnered fans beyond the fashion
world, making them not just models,
but mainstream celebrities.

Canadian model Winnie Harlow, who is

affected with the skin condition vitiligo,
received a valuable endorsement when
she featured prominently in Beyoncé’s
Lemonade visual album.

In the never-ending search for

something new and different,
designers are looking to the public
to provide fresh faces. Kanye West
is known to hold open casting calls
for his Yeezy Collection shows while
J.Crew tapped its own employees to
display the clothes for the spring 2017
presentation.

- 14 - History of Modelling
INDIA : Modelling Career

India is a country with an ancient

clothing design tradition, yet an
emerging fashion industry. By the early
1980s, the first generation of Indian
fashion designers started cropping
up, including Satya Paul. Modelling
entered India after independence,
the first beauty pageant was Miss
India 1947 organized by local press.
Pramila (Esther Victoria Abraham) was
crowned as 1st Miss India. The first ever
Femina Miss India pageant was held in
year 1964. Meher Castelino Mistri of
Maharashtra was crowned the first
ever Femina Miss India.

The first Mister India called Graviera

Adonis Man of the Year contest was
held in 1995. Bikram Saluja of Punjab
was named the first ever Mr. India and
represented India at Mr. World, where
he was placed among top 10 finalists.
Milind Soman is known to be the first
Indian male supermodel who started
modelling in 1988.
- 15 - History of Modelling
Thanks for keeping up ;)