WAVE MECHANICS, Class #01

Monday, June 14th, 2021

Theory of Waves GeoTech Lab, Naval B Building
DEVELOPMENT OF WAVE THEORY
 Sir Isaac Newton (1642-1727)
 First mathematical descriptions of waves, 1687 Principia.
 Proposed motion of water particles in a wave was circular

 Franz Gerstner (1756-1832)

 Develops 1st primitive wave theory
 Particles traveling at the crest of wave move up/forward
 Particles traveling at the trough of wave move down/backward
 Motions traced a circle
 Height at surface = Height of Wave
DEVELOPMENT OF WAVE THEORY
 Ernst Weber (1795-1878) - Anatomy Professor
 Wilhelm Weber (1804-1891) - Physicist
 Built first WAVE Tank
 Confirmed Gerstener’s circular Motions.
DEVELOPMENT OF WAVE THEORY
WWII – Securing a Beach Head
 Commanders wanted to Known type of Sea Conditions
 Walter Munk
 (Army Corp. Engineers)
 With Harald Sverdrup (SIO)
 Undertake Surf forecasting
 Prediction of waves
 1960s_Munk’s lifes work
 Deploys buoy devices etc.
 Alaska → New Zealand
 Munk Concludes
 “Predictions of surfing conditions at Honolulu is possible
DEVELOPMENT OF WAVE THEORY
 Technology Drives the Study of Waves
 Wave Heights, Wind speeds, mea. using Satellites & Buoys

 Major Application behind Study of Waves

 Application to Coastal Engineering Problems
 Vessel Safety at Sea
WHAT IS A WAVE?
What is a Wave?
 Waves result from the movement of E through a medium
 = progressive waves
 e.g. oceanic, seismic, sound waves

Challenge Qs
 What do Progressive Ocean waves arise from?
 A disturbing Force
 Force that Transmits E to the water column or surface via Wind or Earthquake
 What are Waves from Episodic Events (e.g. Winds, Earthquakes) called?
Free Waves - travel without any further influence of Disturbing force
 What are Waves from Continual Events (e.g. tides) called?
 Forced Waves - under continual influence of disturbing force
(e.g. gravity from Moon or Sun)
WHAT IS A WAVE?
 Anatomy of a Wave
 As E is transferred thru fluid the wave particles move in circular motion – aka orbital
Where is the Crest (Peak)? What is the Wavelength (λ)?

Where is the Trough (Valley) Dist. b/w peaks (crests) What is the Wave height (h)?

Dist. b/w Crest - Trough

λ
h
WHAT IS A WAVE?
 Anatomy of a Wave
 What is the Period of a Wave?
 Amount of Time passing b/w wave peaks
 (how far are the peaks apart in time)
 What is the Wave frequency?
 How often peaks are passing same point in time
WHAT IS A WAVE?
 Classification of Waves
 According to their?
 Period
 Wavelength
 Frequency
 Distributing force
WAVE THEORY
 Mathematical description of waves allows us to?
 Predict behavior under different circumstances
 Forecast their arrival on beaches

 Surf forecasters make use of Wave theory to predict:

 When & Where ocean waves have their greatest impact on shore.
WAVE THEORY
 Wave Speed (Velocity ~ V)
 V = Wavelength / Period (Time) or V = λ / T
 Waves with different wavelengths and periods travel at different speeds
 Since λ /T are proportional increases in Wind speed (C) lead to?
 Increases in either Wavelength or Period or both

Note: the PERIOD does NOT change once Wave is formed

WAVE THEORY λ

 Calculating wavelength (λ)

λ = T2g/2π

 T = period time
 g = Acceleration of gravity 9.8 m/s-2 or (32 feet/sec)
 π = Pi ~ 3.1415
WAVE THEORY
 What are Shallow water waves?
 Waves traveling in H2O whose depth is less than one-twentieth (1/20) of the
wavelength of the wave
 What are deep water waves?
 Waves whose propagation is NOT affected by the seafloor
 What are intermediate water waves?
 Surface waves in b/w the deep
and shallow water approximations

h/λ > 1/2 1/20 > h/ λ

WAVE PARTICLE MOTIONS
 For Deep-water waves
 Diameter of wave orbital
 Based on Height

 Challenge Question?
 What happens to the diameter of
 wave orbitals with depth?

 They shrink (diminish)

 disappear
WAVE PARTICLE MOTIONS
 For Shallow-water waves
 Diameter of wave orbital hits bottom
 Becomes ovular b/c of:
 friction/ drag effects etc.

 e.g. notice Kelp moving

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