Marine Meteorology Applications

(Waves)

Dr. Omar Badokhon

Waves
 Waves

How ocean waves are formed

• Wind effect on the sea surface.
• Tsunami or Episodic waves. (undersea earthquake
disturbances or volcanic eruptions)
• The true tidal eddies, or over falls caused by very fast
moving water flowing over a shallow or uneven
bottom.
 Characteristics of waves

Waves have what might be described as an orbital

velocity.

Side view of wave formation

 Characteristics of a Simple Wave
Crest: Highest point of the wave
Trough: Lowest point of the wave
Wavelength: Distance from one crest/trough to the next (m)
Wave Height: Height from trough to crest (m)
Wave steepness: ratio of wave height to wavelength
Amplitude: distance from the center of wave to the bottom of
the trough (m)
Wave Period: time for one full wavelength to pass a given
point (s)
Sea states