Training 20school 20manual

ANX - B
NISHAT MILLS LIMITED

(APPAREL DIVISION)
7-KM Nishat Avenue off 22-KM Ferozepur Road Lahore, Pakistan.
Training Manual
SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS

TRAINING PROGRAM
APPAREL MANUFECTURING
Training Institute
 Resource Planning,
 Maximum Utilization of Man,

Machinery and Space.
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 2

NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION).
Index
TOPIC PAGE
NO.
Part – 1
1. Background of Project 05
2. Objectives of Training 05
3. Target Groups 06
4. Eligibility & Testing Procedures 06
5. Infrastructure (Tools & Equipment) 11
6. Schedule of Training 14
7. Qualities of A Formally Trained Operator 17
8. Measurement of Training 17
Part – 2
9. General Instructions or General Practice 19
10. Safety & Compliance 20
11. Introduction to Sewing Machine & Its Parts 21
12. Introduction to Thread & Fabric 30
13. Introduction to Stitches & Seams 32
14. Introduction to Garments 35
15. Introduction Quality & Defects 36
16. Basic Terminologies Used in Garments 37
Part – 3
17. Paper Exercises 40
18. Sample Operation Break Downs 48
19. Miscellaneous Reports & Formats 52
PART – 1
INTRODUCTION
TO
THE TRAINING PROJECT
BACKGROUND OF THE TRAINING PROJECT

For the developing world Garment & Clothing sector is major export earner & growth in
exports in the garment sector of Pakistan has increased chances of employment. But still it
faces some challenges such as increasingly competitive global environment, high population
growth, high unemployment rate, large number of unskilled or informally skilled workforce in
the country and inadequate labor market information. In consideration of these challenges we
are starting a project of “Sewing Machine Operators Training” to enhance the skill level of
garment and sewing industry workers so that this important backbone industry of Pakistan can
survive the tough challenges of global competition. The project is targeted at reducing
unemployment while simultaneously increasing much needed skilled workforce efficiency for
the garment industry.
OBJECTIVES OF TRAINING
The main goal of this training program is to prepare skilled workforce for the garment sector
of Pakistan & to provide employment chances & confidence to the workforce so that they can
enter in Apparel Field with the level of competencies, well equipped with the job knowledge,
techniques & precision in performance.

To achieve main goal of this training program, we have to make sure that training should meet
following objectives,
1. Provision of basic sewing skill knowledge.
2. Education of basic information about sewing operations and machine maintaining
techniques.
3. Education of efficiency enhancement methods.
4. Education of quality oriented sewing methods.
5. Production of multi-skilled sewing operators regarding operating different types of
sewing machines for different sewing operations.
6. Introducing the garment manufacturing environment culture discipline.
7. Education of health & safety techniques in sewing.
TARGET GROUPS
Following persons will be targeted to be hired as trainee machine operators.
• Having age between 18 to 30 years on the date of interview.
• People which have not done any job before will be given priority and unemployed
person will be given priority to the employed person.
• People living near the facility of training or near the industrial area.
ELIGIBILITY & TESTING PROCEDURES

Trainers Qualification Criteria:
The eligibility to apply for trainer is as follows:
• At least Intermediate or equivalent
• Diploma in “Trainer of Sewing Machine Operator”

OR
Diploma in “Pattern Making, Cutting and Costume Making”
OR
Diploma in “Dress Designing & Tailoring”
• At least two years experience in the relevant field. Experience as Trainer
will be preferred.
• Medical Fit Certificate.
Eligibility for Trainees:

The eligibility to apply for trainees is as follows:
• At least 18 years of date on date of application.
• At least Middle / 8th Standard Pass (Matriculation will be preferred).
• Medical Fit Certificate
Pre-employment Testing:
It is the People who make an organization successful & it is very important to hire productive
people means “a right person right first time”. Although there are as many answers as there are
questions about ways to maximize the productivity of the people, the most cost-effective
answer is pre-employment testing. It gives greater chances of hiring more efficient and
productive people.
If there is not any pre-employment assessment, if you retain the person because you go by
“warm body is better than nobody” theory of keeping the machines busy then that person will
continue to cost you.
There are some pre-employment tests which we shall conduct before hiring given as below.
1) Dexterity Tests
a) Peg Board Test
b) Pin/Needle Board
c) Ball & Tube Test
d) Threading Board Test

2) Visual Accuracy Tests
a) Eye-mind Co-ordination Test
b) Color Blindness Test
3) General Aptitude and Literacy Test
There are four parts of the test.
i) Mathematics (2 Questions)
ii) Urdu (2 Questions)
iii) English (2 Questions)
iv) IQ/Reasoning Test (4 Questions)
DEXTERITY TEST
The word “dexterity” has several meanings such as skill & grace in physical movement, skill
in use of hands & expertness in manual acts, mental skill or adroitness, cleverness… etc
There are certain tests to judge dexterity of a person, we’ll use some of them suitable for us.
.

Detail of these tests is given as below.
Peg Board Test
This test is performed to measure Hand Dexterity & Arm Dexterity of a person. It is done in
three different ways i.e. with right hand only, with left hand only & with both hands and time
is noted by IE Officers/Time Study Technicians of this test in each way. Thing
1. Quickness of hands and arms.
2. Concentration & “Hands Mind Arm” co-ordination
3. Skill comparison between right & left hand.
4. Co-ordination and movement of both hands while doing work using both hands.
Pin Board Test:

This test is mainly carried out to check the sense of touch of the candidate and fingers
expertness of movement.
In this test candidate has to pick two or more pins (decided before 2 or 3 or more but fix at a
time) from a box without watching and inserts it in the hole in a specified time period.
Following are the things which are observed during this test.
b). Sense of touch of candidate
b). Fingers movement.
b). Fingers grip.
b). Co-ordination of fingers with mind.
Balls & Tube Test

This test is performed with Left hand & Right hand and readings for both are taken separately
and it is determined through this whether candidate is strong on left or right hand. There are
numerous balls placed which needs to be passed through a tube in the given time. More the
balls are passed, more the points earned.
1. Quickness does matter more than anything.
2. To achieve the targets during lesser time period by using both hands simultaneously.
Threading Board Test

It is also a king of dexterity test but as it is directly related to our nervous system and eye sight
so we can name it visual nervous test.
In this exercise we check:
1. Operator's nervousness.
2. Eye and hand coordination
3. Vision (Eye Sight)
4. Concentration
VISUAL ACCURACY TEST

Eye and Mind Co-ordination Test:
This test is carried out to check the eye and mind control of candidate.
In this test candidate is given a paper on which continuous but random/irregular lines are
drawn. Each line is given a number on starting point (e.g 10 have number 1 to 10). Candidate
has to write the same number on the end point of same line without pointing the path of line
with finger or anything.
Color Blindness Test:

In Color Blindness Test, candidate is shown a print (image, digit…etc) which is made of
multi-colored small shapes (with dots, circles… etc). The candidate has to identify the normal
look of the image. Please see below the sample image.

The normal read this as 45. The majority of those with color vision deficiencies can not read
them or read them incorrectly.
INFRASTRUCTURE
ORGANOGRAM
MANAGER
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
DEPUTY MANAGER

ASSITANT ASST. MANAGER
MANAGER CHIEF TRAINING INDSUTRIAL
MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTOR ENGINEERING
(01) (02) (01)
INDUSTRIAL
TRAINING ENGINEERING
TECHNICIAN ELECTRICIAN INSTRUCTOR OFFICERS
(02) (02) (06) (02)
COMPUTER OPERATOR CLERK

(02) (02)
HELPER
(02)
EQUIPMENT & TOOLS
Machinery:
The list of machines required is as follows:
Machine Type
Quantity
1) Single Needle Lockstitch (Auto) 120
2) Double Needle Lockstitch (Auto) 20
3) Double Needle Chainstitch 06
4) 6 Thread Over-lock (Auto) 30
5) Waistband Attach Machine 08
6) Feed Of Arm (Auto) 16
7) Bar-tack (Auto) 16
8) Cover Stitch (Auto) 04
9) Zigzag Stitch Machine 02
10) Auto Welt 03
11) Button Hole - Straight (Auto) 02
12) Button Hole - Eye Let (Auto) 04
13) Snap Machine 04
14) Auto Loop Machine 03
15) Mock Machine 03
16) Auto Bottom Hem Machine 04
17) Make Loops 04
18) Button Attach Machine (Auto) 03
Total Number of Machines: 252
Miscellaneous Tools & Equipment:

Following is the list of miscellaneous tools & equipment required for trainees.
Type
Quantity
1) Scissors (6”) 25
2) Measuring Tape 50
3) Clipper/Hand Cutter

200
4) Presser Foot (Regular SN-Lockstitch) 80
5) Presser Foot (1/8” Guide, SN-Lockstitch) 40
6) Presser Foot (Waistband M/C) 08
7) Presser Foot (1/8” & 1/16” - Feed of Arm M/C) 16
8) Presser Foot (Mix for DN-Lockstitch) 20
9) Presser Foot (Zipper Attach) 05

10) Needles
248
11) T-Guide 50
12) Magnetic Guide 10
13) Pocket Hem Folder 05
14) Front Pocket Opening (Hang-sewing) Folder 10
15) Waistband Attach Folder (1-Pc, 2-Pc…etc) 08
16) Fell Seam / Lapped Seam Folder 10
17) Binding / Piping Folder 05
18) Bottom Hem Folder 04
19) Loop Making Folder 04
20) Steam Iron Electrical 05
21) Finger Guards 248
22) Eye-Guards 60
23) Screw Drivers Small 50
24) Chairs 220
25) White Board 02
26) Press Tables & Marking (4’x3.5’x4’) 10
27) Cutting Table (8’x6’x4’) 02
SCHEDULE OF OPERATORS TRAINING
Day – 1:
a). Orientation about Training Program its background, objectives, scope and Rules &
Regulations to be followed.
b). Introduction to the Staff & Pre-designed Training Schedule.
Day – 2:
a). Lecture
 Introduction to Sewing Machines and brief detail of function of general machine
and their parts.
b). Practical
 General Practice and Sewing Instructions “about basics – how & where to sit
while operating the machine, practice for sewing machine control and eye-hand-foot
coordination.
Day 3 to 8:
a). Lecture
 Safety and Compliance Rules “general knowledge about safety & compliance
issues”.
 Needle “parts of needle, general types of needle and their usage”.
 Presser Foot “its parts, general types and usage”.
 Oiling “how to lubricate the machine and its importance”.
 Threading “how to thread through machine parts, its sequence, relation of thread
tension & stitch quality and right way of bobbin winding”.
b). Practical
 Threading “practice of threading the machines”.
 General Maintenance “how to keep machine cleans, its oiling, petty
maintenance tricks”
 Paper Exercises 1-7 “paper exercises for basic sewing practice and repeated
practice of these exercises on fabric”.

Day 9 to 15:
a). Lecture
 Threads “introduction, different types of threads.”
 Fabrics “general types of fabrics, and needle relationship”.
 Introduction to Measurement & Its Units “what is measurement, how to measure,
tools & units of measurement (UOM) and importance of measurement in a garment.
b). Practical
 Measurement Practice “practice of measurement with measuring tape in inches &
centimeters”.
 Specific Machine Control Practice “practice machine control on special types of
machine such as Double Needle Lock Stitch, Double Needle Chain Stitch, Six
Thread Over-lock, Feed of Arm, Waistband Machine, Cover-stitch, Auto Loop
Attach, Auto Bottom Hem, Auto Welt, Mock Stitch, Bar-tack, Button-hole, SNAP
and Zig-Zag Machine ”.
 Basic Sewing Practice “attach, edge stitch (1/8”, 1/4”), single fold hem and double
fold hem.
Day 16 to 34:
a). Lecture:
 Garment “introduction and basic types of garment.”
 Garment Construction “operations in basic types of garments”.
 Stitch & Seam “basic idea of stitch & seam and difference between them. General
types of stitch & seam, ISO classification and ISO numbers for common stitch &
seam types.”
 Introduction to Quality, Sewing Defects & Remedies “what is quality, importance
of quality. what is defect, common types of sewing defects, their causes, educating
how to remove defect and advantages of defect free sewing”.
b). Practical
 Practice on General Operations “back yoke & rise attach (FOA-fell seam), back
patch pocket hem & attach, front facing attach, topstitch front pocket opening, panel
attach + topstitch, crotch seam, join side seam (safety over-lock), inseam (safety join
& fell seam both), topstitch hipline, waistband attach, hem leg opening, bar-tack back
pocket & front pocket opening, loop attach to body, main label attach”.
Day 35 to 42:
Complete back section training on Basic 5-Pocket and Chino Pant with time measurement
by Industrial Engineering Officers and try to achieve hourly operational target as per
standards.
Day 43 to 50:
Complete front section training on Basic 5-Pocket and Chino Pant with time measurement
by Industrial Engineering Officers and try to achieve hourly operational target as per
standards.
Day 51 to 58:
Complete Assembly-1 Section training on Basic 5-Pocket and Chino Pant with time
measurement by Industrial Engineering Officers and try to achieve hourly operational
target as per standards.
Day 59 to 69:
Complete Assembly-2 Section training on Basic 5-Pocket and Chino Pant with time
measurement by Industrial Engineering Officers and try to achieve hourly operational
target as per standards.
Day 70 to 75:
Complete garment making.
a). Five garment of basic five pocket.
b). Five garment of chino pant.

Day 76:
Examination (Written & Viva)
Day 77:
Visit to a garment factory for complete understanding of factory environment & flow.
Day 78:
“Certificates Awarding Ceremony”
QUALITIES OF FORMALLY TRAINED

MACHINE OPERATORS
A formally trained sewing operator usually has different qualities as compared to other
machine operators which not formally trained.
1. Disciplined & well mannered
2. Quality conscious.
3. Basic knowledge of machine & its mechanism.
4. Knowledge and practice of compliance issues regarding their safety & working
environment.
5. Rhythm or continuation in work which causes the same and controlled Quality.
6. Strictly acting upon cleanliness of machine & work place.
7. Knowledge of all Sewing Terminologies.
8. Having Minimum efficiency of 40%.
9. Consistency in performance regarding quality oriented manufacturing.
MEASUREMENT OF TRAINING
a) All the activities of trainees are measurable and we measure them by the following

tools.
b) Date of their entry tests are kept in record.
c) There is a test after completely all papers in sewing exercises on the basis of result
training instructor allow him to start new exercise are still repeat the same till palling
1st one. And result of all these are kept in record.
d) All activities of a trainee are recorded on daily work sheet.
e) There is also an exercise progress summary in which we can see progress of any
trainee in summarize form.
f) Daily production or single cycle graph show his working efficiency in graphic form.
PART – 2
COURSE MATERIAL
&
THEORY GUIDE
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR

MACHINE OPERATORS
As shown by their name these are those instructions or practices which must be second habit
of any machine operator.
1) Your workplace should be kept cleaned.
2) You have to be dressed up and combed neatly.
3) Always use bins.
4) Deep your machine cleaned.
5) Do not bring your personal items towards your work place.
6) Do not write on machine.
7) Do not paste anything on machine bed.
8) Completely clean up your machine at the start end of your work.
9) Do not try to repair any mechanical or electrical fault of machine.
10) Off the power, when you leave the machine even for seconds, or when shut down, you
want to change needle, thread or oil.

11) Check the oil gauge and proper working of oil pump before start work.
12) Place a piece of fabric between the pressure foot and the needle plate at the end of
work in the evening to prevent oil stains.
13) Completely wipe off any oil on the pressure foot before starting the machine in the
morning.
14) Do not start work without sufficient safety grads such as needle guard, eye guard,
pulley cover, wheel cover etc.
15) Always tie up sharp tools with machine.
16) Don't throw oil in the floor. If so clean the floor immediately.
17) Wear mask while especially over lock machine.
18) Don't operate any other machine without permission of supervisor.
19) Don't sit on machine bed.
20) Always come 5 minutes before your shift starts.
21) At shift start complete the remaining bundles before taking new bundle.
22) Neither any bundle should be passed to next operation even without a single piece nor
should pieces having incomplete operations be sent with bundle.
23) Don't put any garment or part of garment on the floor.
SAFETY & COMPLIANCE
Garment manufacturing, like other industrial processes, can be hazardous work. It’s important
for employers and workers to be aware of the hazards associated with garment manufacturing
and take precautions to guard against work-related illnesses and injuries.
As cutting tools and knitting or sewing needles can pose cut and puncture hazards, workers
should be instructed to follow basic safety precautions while working with sharp and cutting
instruments. Precautions include: using sharp tools that are in good repair; carrying and storing
sharp tools properly; and always cutting away from the eyes and body. Workers need to stay
alert when working with sharp objects and make sure needles are properly guarded.

Chemicals also play a part in garment manufacturing. Dyes, enzymes, solvents, and other
chemicals are used to create different fabric finishes and Fluff is also produced when fabric is
being cut or sewn on some machines. As a result, chemical particles along with fluff floats in
the air we breathe. So, proper ventilation, respiratory protection, and other personal
protective equipment are important to protect workers.
Because much of garment work involves close viewing of the garment, eye protection is
critical. Garment workers can avoid eye injuries by using proper shields on high speed sewing
machinery or safety glasses where appropriate. Also, adequate task lighting at individual work
stations can prevent eye strain.
Some garment manufacturing equipment can be very loud, so proper hearing protection may
be necessary. Because a garment factory uses many heated processes, it is important for
workers to avoid heat stress by labeling and guarding hot surfaces and drinking plenty of
water during their shift. Proper ventilation can help to reduce ambient temperatures and ensure
worker comfort.
Many tasks in garment manufacturing require repetitive motions . To prevent ergonomic
injuries workers should be encouraged to rotate tasks or take frequent, short breaks to stretch
and relax muscles. Work stations should allow enough space for the task, have appropriate
working height, and provide proper seating. Manufacturing tools and machinery should
incorporate ergonomic design principles and should not require an excessive amount of force
to operate.
With proper training and instruction, machine guarding, personal protective equipment,
and ergonomically designed work systems, garment workers can manufacture products in
safe and healthy workplaces.
INTRODUCTION TO SEWING MACHINE

AND MACHINE PARTS
Sewing Machine:
The sewing machine is used for sewing purposes. The machine is operated either by the use of
foot or through the use of electricity. It requires skills, knowledge, and expertise to operate the
sewing machine accurately.
Sewing Machine Parts:

1. Thread Stand “Thread cones/package is placed on thread stand”.
2. Thread Guide “used to direct thread to avoid thread slippage, also act as balloon
breaker.
3. Tension Assembly “it is used to adjust thread tension”.
4. Tack up Lever “this part of the sewing machine moves down to loosen the thread to
prepare the formation of the stitch; it will move up in order to remove the slack as the
stitch is completed.”.
5. Needle “it is used to pull thread through the cloth/fabric.”
6. Needle Clamp “it is mounted on needle clump with screws”
7. Needle Bar “it gives up & down motion to needle”
8. Feed Dog “its part of sewing machine that moves fabric under the presser foot”
9. Needle Plate “needle plate gives needle path down to looper/bobbin to make
interlacement”
10. Presser Foot “function of presser foot is to hold the cloth in place while it is being
sewn.”
11. Presser Foot Bar “Presser foot is mounted on the bottom of this bar and there is screw
on top of the bar, pressure of foot can be adjusted through the screw.”
12. Finger Guard “it is used for safety measures, it stops finger of operator before needle
while sewing”.
13. Wiper “it takes thread end to a side after the thread has been trimmed by auto-trimmer.
It is part of machines with auto trimmer only”.
14. Bobbin “it is a small cylinder that has flanges on both ends. Thread is wound onto it.”
15. Bobbin Case “Bobbin is inserted in bobbin case before mounting in shuttle. Bobbin
case helps in proper unwinding of thread & controls thread tension”.
16. Bobbin Winder “Bobbin winder, the bobbin winder is a short rod located just beside
the balance wheel. This part is used to thread in the bobbin.”
17. Shuttle “it makes loop of bobbin thread with its hook that permit the needle thread to
interlace with bobbin thread for stitch making”.
18. Stitch Regulator “This part of the sewing machine is responsible for regulating the
length of stitches means it controls Stitch Per Inch (SPI)”.

19. Back Tack Button “pressing this button reverses the direction of stitching. It is used
for reinforcing the seam ends.
20. Balance Wheel “
21. Power Switch “It is for switching the machine to ON or OFF position.
22. Knee Lifter “it is used to lift the presser foot with knee”
23. Power Plug “it is plugged in the power source”.
24. Drawer “it is under the machine bed & used to put sewing tools in it”
25. Control Panel “it is the part of digital machines on which there is display screen and
some buttons. It is used for machines digital setting”.
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE

NEEDLE
Function of needle:
Needle helps us to make a hole through the material (fabric). It provides thread for the loop
formation.
Parts of Needle:
Following are the main parts of a needle.
1. The shank of the needle
2. The blade of the needle
3. Groove of the needle
4. Scarf of the needle
5. Taper to the needle point
6. The needle eye
7. The needle point

Structure of a Needle:
The shank of the needle:-

Shank is that part of needle which we fix into the machine / needle. The needle shank should
fit the bar, needle bar / needle holder precisely skipped stitches and needle breakage are likely
to occur when the needle is not properly set in its needle bar or needle clump. Most needles
have comp lately round shanks but some types ate made with flat of notched surface to help
secure them in precise position and to hold them more securely.
The blade of the needle:-

There must be a proper balance between thickness and strength. It’s easily understood that the
thicker the needle’s blade the stronger it is. An excessive by thick needle, however, can cut
thread and damage material there ate different types of blades to avoid cutting thread and to
meet every sewing need such as slim blade, single step reinforced blade, double step
reinforced blade and tapered blade etc.
Groove of the needle:-

The function of the grove in the needle is to guide the thread to the needle’s eye with the least

resistance possible. It gives the protection for the thread when it passed through the material.
For a variety of purpose it has different shapes, e.g. twin grooves, grooves having round edges,
“SRG/SGL” which is spiral to prevent unraveling of multiple ply threads.
Scarf of the needle:-
We can also call it controller of loops. This helps to create the smooth loop formation and also
helps to make smooth movement of the shuttle various threads and condition of sewing can
change the size shape and position of thread loops, skipped stitches and other problems with
seams can often be prevented by maintaining proper loop formation. Providing a scarf
(clearance above the eye) facilitates a thread loop formation which allows the looper or hook
point to pick up the thread and form a proper stitch. A variety of scarf designs are available to
suit various sewing conditions.
Taper to the needle point:-

It’s a key factor contributing to better stitches. Resistance to penetration is greatest when the
area around needle’s eye passes through the sewn material to avoid damaging the material, it is
best to distribute the resistance in the area of the taper to the needle’s point, it also has
different shapes. These taper designs are intended to help prevent damaged material, puckering
and loose stitches.
The needle’s eye:-

A whole that any thread can pass through smoothly. During sewing, threads’ passing through
the needle’s eye is tightened and loosed alternately the optimal condition for the thread is to
pass smoothly through the needle’s eye with the minimum of strain. To achieve this objective,
the needle eye must be highly by polished to provide the least friction for the thread especially
custom made needles with over sized eyes can be supplied when using a course thread but a
thicker needle blade cannot be used.
The needle’s point:-

A pilot to guide the needle through the material.
In sewing to depending on the shape of the point a needle can pass between the waves of the

material, through knots of wave’s threads or even through a woven thread itself. To ease
passing between woven threads choose round point needles. A round point which is between
70% and 140% of the diameter of the wave is thread will minimize breakage of the sewing
materials wave. To penetrate knots and woven threads, use sharp point’s needle, for leather
sewing needle, choose cutting points of various designs.
Needle points
These are two types of needles according to their tip points.
1. Cutting point needle
2. Cloth point needle
Details of both are as follow.
1. Cutting point needle:-

This type of needle is more suitable for stitching sheet materials with no space in the structure
such as sheets; leather etc. in sheet material needle point must cut the sufficient space that the
needle blade and the thread can pall through with out making the friction.
Types of cutting point needle:-
There are following type of cutting point needles.
a.) Wedge point
b.) Cross point
c.) Twist point
d.) Triangular point
e.) Square point
2. Cloth point needle:-

This type of needle used to stitch the textile fabric which is having the space where the needle
can perpetrate / Pass through. In knitted fabric, it consists of yarn with space between them; if
the yarn in knitted fabric broke then the knitted structure may be unpicked /unlocked. This
yarn breakage may happen due to two reasons:-
1. By the needle directly strikes in the yarn and damage.

2. By the needle entering a knitted loop which is not large enough to accommodate it.
Therefore the knitted fabric require the needle point which will slightly defect the yarn and
enter the space the tip of needle is basin ball shape and the needle is referred to as "Ball Point
Needle"
• The width of the needle eye is 5% thicker than that blade of needle.
• The needle opens a large hole to reduce friction between the blade and fabric.
• Preventing heat generation and needle burning this feature employed for most
industrial sewing & needles.
Double stepped needle blades:-

• Double stepped blade needles reinforce the needle.
• Reduce lower surface friction.
• Double stopped blade shape reduces the needle breakage.
• This kind of needle reduces bending and wobbling.
• Reduce the lower needle part heat.
Surface Finishing of Needle

A needle should make extremely smooth contact with the material. The surface treatment of
the needle is a key factor to reduce its penetration resistance and friction. Different surface
treatments are provided depending on the types of the material.
Types of Surface Finishing:

Nickel Plating:-
Nickel plating is performed to smoothen the surface of needles and the are only use for home
sewing machines.
Chrome Plating:-
Two coating have been applied to the surface of the needle which help to reduce the heat from
abrasion the surface layer is fluorocarbon surface of needles and they are only use for home
sewing machines.

ASU:
Most suitable for reducing needle heat when sewing delicate and fine fabrics.
PSU:
Compounds plating and surface treatment enables the needle to maintain long lasting anti
adhesion properties suitable for delicate and fine materials.
• Performed same as nickel plating smooth the surface.
• Reduce the friction between the needle & the fabric.
• It also prevents increase in needle heat.
• The surface of chromo plated needle is hard, and it is effective against burning and
friction
• Most industrial sewing machines needles are finished with chromo plating.
Super/ Cool Sew Finishing:-
• This surface treatment has been developed for special fabrics.
• This finished has very much low friction.
• Due to this finish increase in needle heat hardly ever occurs.
• Sometime special fabric metal with the needle heat, this finish prevents the fabric for
melting.
Titanium Casting:-
• Used for the extraordinary stitching.
• Ideally suited for the most demanding sewing applications.
• Tests have shown that titanium coated needles are approximately twice as hard as, and
about five times as resistance to wear as conventional chromo-plated needles.
Problems Caused By Needle

A. Stitch Skipping:-
1. Needle Size
2. Needle Eye Size
3. Shape of Scarf
4. Damaged Needle

5. Contact between Needle & Gauge Parts
B. Needle Breakage:-
1. It may happen because of:
2. Needle Size
3. Damage Needle
4. Needle Eye Size
5. Fabric Weight
C. Thread Breakage:-
1. Needle Size
2. Damage Needle
3. Needle Eye Size
4. Fabric Weight
D. Yarn Severance:-
1. Needle Size
2. Needle Point Shape
3. Damage Needle Point
4. Needle Heat
E. Puckering:-
1. Needle Size
2. Needle Point Shape
3. Fabric Type
Preventive Measures:-
1. Silicon Oil (for thread lubrication)

2. Needle Cooler
3. Sewing Machine Speed
4. Change of Fabric or thread
5. Needle Type
Sewing Synthetic Fabric and Needle Temperature:-

Synthetic fabric is also a problem because is has low heat resistance. When needle has reaches
the melting temperature of fabric the fabric begins to fuse which cause stitch skipping and
yarn severance.
Needle Temperature:-
Needle heat rises increasingly after the start of sewing and reaches a maximum temperature in
5 to 6 seconds.
Temperature Distribution of a Needle:-

Each area of needle has its own temperature during sewing, Such as the point of needle, the
needle eye and shank.
The area around the eye of a needle has the highest temperature.
• The difference in temperature is due to needle size.
The largest the diameter of the needle hole is, the higher heat rises. The needle size employed
should be as small as possible.
Causes of Yarn Severance in Sewing Fabrics

1. Needle Tip Shape:
The sharper a needle tip, it is more likely that the needle will serve the individual yarns shen
the needles goes into the fabric. To prevent this try a ball - point needle that spreads the fabric
fiber and eliminate severing of the individual yarns this will reduce yarn severance.
2. Needle Point Shape:
A lot of force may be required on the yarn by the shape of the needle point, when the needle is
sewing special fabrics, This will cause yarn severance.

3. Needle Size:
Needle size should be implementing as per the requirements of fabric wrong needle size a
main cause of yarn severance.
4. Yarn Severance Due to Needle Heat:-
If the needle heat exceeds the melting temperature of special fabric, the yarn will be melted
and damaged, causing yarn severance to solve this problem, needle heat preventing measure
are needed.
The Relationship Between Thread & Needles:

If the needle size does not match the sewing thread being used, it will cause:
Stitch Skipping
Thread Breaking
Defective finished stitches
Select the correct needle as per requirement of the fabric.
NEEDLE CHART
Sr. # NEEDLE SYSTEM TYPE/NO M/C TYPE
1 DP X 5 130/21 S/N , D/N
2 DP X 5 120/19 S/N , D/N
3 DC X 27 120/19 OVER LOCK
4 TV X 5 130/21 WAISTBAND ATTACH
5 UY X128 GAS- 130/21 FEED OF ARM
6 DP X 5 120/19 BARTACK
7 DV X 43 120/19 COVERSTITCH / LOOP MAKE
8 MR-5 130/21 BOTTOM HEM
9 EB X 755- 120/19 EYE LET (BUTTON HOLE)

INTRODUCTION TO FABRIC
“Fabric is sheet made by interlacement or weaving of warp & weft yarns together.”
There are mainly two classifications of fabrics
1). Woven Fabrics 2). Knitted Fabrics
Woven Fabrics:
Woven fabric is made of strands of warp going in one direction and strands of weft going
vertically to the warp and weaving in and out of the warp yarns. The resulting fabric has little
stretch to it.
There are different types of woven fabric most common are plain fabric, twill, denim…etc
Knitted Fabrics:
Knitted fabric is made of a single strand of yarn with row upon row of loops pulled through
loops. The resulting fabric is stretchy. Knitting uses more yarn than weaving of similar
dimensions.
There are different types of knitted fabrics such as jersey fabric, rib, fleece…ect.
INTRODUCTION TO THREAD
It's the fine, string-like material that people use when they sew fabrics together. Thread is used
to keep fabrics together.
Types of Thread:
There are different types of thread according to its construction. Following is the brief detail of
thread.
1) Spun Thread
“All spun threads are made up from staple fibers that are spun into single yarn and then
plied to make a sewing thread”.
2) Monofilament Thread

“It is synthetic filament extruded to a specific diameter”. It is clear from its name that it
consists of single strand only. Generally it is made of nylon and is called invisible thread
also.
3) Continuous Filament Thread
“It is made of twisted single filaments which are again slightly twisted together and heat
set make thread.”
4) Core Spun Thread
“It consists of a continuous filament core of polyester covered with fibers of cotton or
polyester. Then two or more of these composite yarns are twisted together to form thread”.
So, it gives strength of a continuous filament thread with the sewing performance of spun
thread.
5) Textured Thread
It is made of parallel continuous filaments of yarn which create softness and bulk.
Textured filaments are then twisted slightly & heat set. These threads provide excellent
coverage of seams & rolled edges that is why mostly used in loopers of a serging or over-
lock machine.
INTRODUCTION TO SEAMS AND STITCHES

Stitch:
“One complete movement of a threaded needle through a fabric or material such as to leave
behind it, a single loop or portion of thread.
Classification of Stitches
1. Chain Stitch (100)
2. Hand Stitch (200)
3. Lock Stitch (300)
4. Multi Needle Chain Stitch (400)
5. Over Lock (500)

6. Cover Stitch (600)
Advantages of Lock Stitches

1. The lock stitch thread has more strength than the other threads.
2. The appearance of both side seams is same.
3. This stitch type is more reliable to form all types of shapes.
4. This stitch is more secure as compare to other stitches.
Disadvantages of Lock Stitches
1. In machines of lock stitch the bobbin is used to provide lower thread but the bobbin
contains a limited length of thread which is to be changed always.
2. This stitch type is more difficult to remove.
The multi needle stitching with close space is not possible because we require more space for
bobbins.
This stitch type cannot be used for high stretch ability fabric due to lock stitch thread.
Over lock Stitch:-

This stitch type has general characteristics of loop form. At least one or two of them pass
around the edge of the fabric. This prevents the fraying edges of the fabric; this class has a
high elasticity. Trimming knife of the edge ensure the neat ness prior to sewing.
Types of Seam
Seam is a mean to join two or more parts of garment together.
Definition:-
Under the British standard 3870 Part II the definition of seam is "Seam is the application of
stitches to one or more thickness of the material"
The seam type and seam allowances are determined by the use of the following factors:
 Type of the Fabric:-
Thick, thin, fraying etc. (Denim, Jeorjet, Fabric for pocket Lining)
 Type of Garments:-
a. Tight fitting garments e.g. Loungers, etc.
b. Loose fitting garments e.g. shirts, skirts, blouses etc.
Classification of Seam
Different seams can be divided under different classes:
i. Class-I Plain Seam / French Seam
ii. Class-II Welt Seam / Machine Felt Seam
iii. Class-III Bound Seam
iv. Class-IV Channel Seam

v. Class-V Ornamental Seam
vi. Class-VI Edge Neating Seam
vii. Class-VII Edge Stitched Seam
viii. Class-VIII End Closed Seam
Class- I Plain Seam / French Seam

Plain Seam:-
This is the seam most commonly used for all types of fabric and garments attaching two parts
components together e.g. it is either lock stitch, over lock, flat lock, chain stitch etc.
French Seam:-
French seam is a self neating seam sheer than arrow seam produces clean finish. Because of
these French seam is tighter and more secure than the plain seam. It is used in under seam,
shoulder seam (In blouses made with thin fabric). It is also used to stitch garment parts which
require neat finish such as collar, flap, cuff etc.
Class-II Welt Seam / Machine Felt Seam

Welt seam:-
Seam in this class is produced with the minimal of two components. Topstitch seam gives a
decorative effect to the garment. Commonly those used for straight seam e.g. blazers, coats,
men's wear etc.
Felt Seam:-
It is formed of two needle machine and a folder to make the felt seam. This is commonly used
in long seams of garments to provide a strong seam e.g. in denim jeans side seam, inseam,
back rise etc.
Class-III Bound Seam

Bound seam is usually made up with two components of base material and a strip of a fabric
known as binding, Binding has to be in non-fray material. (Because it avoid the fraying edges
before attach in the base material). To make binder attach in this seam we can use the folder on
sewing.
This type of seam is commonly used for under garments such as, vest brief T- Shirts and
trousers etc.
Class-IV Channel Seam:-

Channel seam consist of 3 components, two of basic material and one of under layer. In this
case, the edge of the base material is turned to wrong side to form a seam allowance.
This seam is used to make garments with contrast color for decorative purpose e.g. ladies
skirts, blouse, jackets, etc.
Class-V Ornamental Seam:-

Seam in this class are produced with minimum of one component. The sequence of stitches
was applied in the plain surface of the fabric. This is also used for decorative purposes.
Class-VI Edge Neating Seam:-

Seam in this class consist of where fabric edges are neat by means of stitches as well as folded
edges. The simplest is the fabric edges neat in with the over lock. This type of seams used in
dresses, blouses, skirts, shirts, etc.
Class- VII Edge Stitches Seam:-

This constructs / consists with minimum of two components which is limited to one side and
other two sides. This type of seam is commonly found in night dresses and under garments.

Class-VIII End Closed Seam:-
This seam is produced by folding a stripe material in length with seam allowances. This seam
is used for belt, loops and hanging loops of the garments.
INTRODUCTION TO GARMENTS
GARMENT:
“The word garment means to article of outer clothing or covering”.
There is another term Apparel which means “clothing or dress that covers or envelopes”.
Generally both are taken in same meanings.
Common Parts of Garments:

1. Front Panels
2. Back Panels
3. Yokes
4. Back Pockets
5. Watch Pocket, Pen Pocket, Coin Pocket, 5th Pocket
6. Waistband
7. Belt Loops
8. Care Label
9. Size Label
10. Care & Size Label
11. Shade & Line Label
12. Pocket Bag
13. Flag Label
14. Leather Label
15. Price Ticket
16. Zipper
17. Stud
18. Rivets
19. Welt Pocket
20. Knee Pocket
21. Pouch Pocket
22. Tool Pocket
23. Flap

Construction of Garment
Please See Sample Break Down for Construction of Garments in PART-3”
QUALITY & SEWING DEFECT

Quality:
Definition:
“Quality means conformance to the customer requirement”.
Or
“To meet the customer requirements”.
To achieve the quality should be the foremost preference for operators. It’s a more productive
approach. Always work keeping in mind “do right first time”
Defect:
“Defect is the nonconformance from the customer’s requirement”.
Or
“Frailty or shortcoming in a product resulting from a departure from its design specifications
during production”.
Always focus on defect free production as defect is an absolute loss and sometimes defect can
cause real damage to the organization and employees.
Disadvantages:
 Defect simply means the non-productive.
 Some defects are repairable and time is lost in rework.
 Some defects are irreparable the complete piece is lost.
 Creating more defects increases the cost of quality and cost of manufacturing both.
 If any customer find the defect this harms organizations and employees repute.
BASIC TERMINOLOGIES USED

IN GARMENTS
1. Quality
2. Sewing Machines
3. Machine Oil
4. Tread
5. Thread Cutter
6. Scissors
7. Fabrics
8. Garments
9. First Aid Box
10. Fire Extinguisher
11. Stitch
12. Seam
13. Stitching
14. Sewing Units
15. Thread Cone
16. Dust Bin
17. Twill
18. Denim
19. Notches
20. Damage
21. Re-cut
22. Shading
23. S.P.I
24. S.M.V
25. Scale
26. Measuring Tape
27. Un-pick
28. Alteration
29. Reject & Rejection
30. Puckering

31. Off-Shade
32. Easing inn
33. Face side
34. Fusing
35. Grain
36. Pile
37. Pleat
38. Cut #
39. Bundle #
40. Seam Allowance
41. Balance Cards
42. Trimming

PART – 3
FORMATS & SAMPLE

DOCUMENTS

PAPER EXERCISES

SAMPLE OPERATION
BREAK DOWNS

MISCELLANEOUS
REPORTS & FORMATS


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ANX - B

NISHAT MILLS LIMITED

SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS

 Maximum Utilization of Man,

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 2

BACKGROUND OF THE TRAINING PROJECT

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 5

ELIGIBILITY & TESTING PROCEDURES

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 6

Eligibility for Trainees:

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 7

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 8

Pin Board Test:

Balls & Tube Test

Threading Board Test

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 9

VISUAL ACCURACY TEST

Color Blindness Test:

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 10

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 11

COMPUTER OPERATOR CLERK

Total Number of Machines: 252

Miscellaneous Tools & Equipment:

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 13

9) Presser Foot (Zipper Attach) 05

SCHEDULE OF OPERATORS TRAINING

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 15

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 17

QUALITIES OF FORMALLY TRAINED

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 18

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 20

SAFETY & COMPLIANCE

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 21

INTRODUCTION TO SEWING MACHINE

Sewing Machine Parts:

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 23

INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 24

The shank of the needle:-

The blade of the needle:-

Groove of the needle:-

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 25

Taper to the needle point:-

The needle’s eye:-

The needle’s point:-

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 26

1. Cutting point needle:-

2. Cloth point needle:-

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 27

Double stepped needle blades:-

Surface Finishing of Needle

Types of Surface Finishing:

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 28

Problems Caused By Needle

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 29

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 30

Sewing Synthetic Fabric and Needle Temperature:-

Temperature Distribution of a Needle:-

Causes of Yarn Severance in Sewing Fabrics

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 31

The Relationship Between Thread & Needles:

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 32