Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Climber 01.02 2021
Climber 01.02 2021
HEN CLOUD
FRENCH ROCK SAINT CÉZAIRE
3 WELSH TRAD CLASSICS
GILWERN SOUTH WALES SPORT
EASY CLIMBS BURBAGE NORTH
GEAR ACTIVE INSULATION
MICK LOVATT INTERVIEW
DISPLAY UNTIL 11/02/21
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CLOUD CLIMBING
The main feature in this magazine is about Hen Cloud in Staffordshire. Back home Keith also caught up with Mick Lovatt for an interview. Referred
An imposing gritstone crag that for some unknown reason is often to as ‘The Perfect Man’, Mick was always well turned out and talks about
shunned by climbers visiting the area. I can’t understand that but maybe early days on the Malham catwalk through to more frightening fare on the
it is the imposing position, or that there’s a bit of a reputation for tough Ll n Peninsula, North Wales. You are supposed to take it easy in retirement
lines? Whilst the latter is true of certain routes, trust me, there’s plenty not put up new E8s on loose crags, Mick.
of less menacing lines to do with classics all over the crag. In fact, Just as we went to press sad news came in about the passing of an icon
I would go on to say that this is one of the finest gritstone crags period of Scottish mountaineering, Hamish MacInnes, at the grand age of 90. For
and that’s coming from someone who grew up on the delights of those of you who don’t know much about him, as well as being an outstand-
eastern grit crags. Hopefully the article tempts you to pay a visit? ing mountaineer/climber at home, the Alps and Greater Ranges, he was
I love a classic route (and a trip to North Wales) and Tony Howard very innovative too. He developed the Terrordactyl ice tool with a steeply
highlights three of these. I must confess that I’ve only done one of them inclined serrated pick that revolutionised ice-climbing around the world.
– Creagh Dhu Wall at Tremadog – but the other two are certainly on the list In addition, Hamish was a highly respected authority on mountain rescue,
now. The easy climbs article heads to one of my most treasured venues, helping improve equipment and techniques needed. If you have the March
Burbage North, in the Peak District. Being a born and bred Sheffielder, I spent –April 2019 issue of Climber, Noel Dawson wrote an insightful biography
many an evening there after work and have fond memories. It’s far too far of him that is now also available on the Climber website.
for an evening from my current Midlands home but the odd day trip is a must. Finally, please consider taking out a subscription to the magazine –
Just before Wales headed into a lockdown, and inspired by a new guide- times are difficult with the pandemic affecting sales etc so it all helps to
book, I had planned a visit to the Gilwern Hills to try out some well-bolted keep the magazine alive – you can find details of two fantastic offers on
sport routes and climb in this area for the first time, having driven past it pages 23 and 49.
on many occasions. Having read Guy Percival’s article I can’t wait.
Heading across to France and Climber regular, Keith Sharples, nipped over Best regards and be safe
to a venue few have heard of let alone climbed on, yet has a plethora of
superb bolted climbs, so welcome to Saint-Cézaire – the cat is out of the bag. David
Gear: Bruce Goodlad, Kate Scott, Keith Sharples Submitting material: Articles may be submitted to the Editor Subscription hotline: 01778 392004
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Production Co-ordinator: Sue Ward – manuscripts and photographs. Climber magazine wishes to © Simages Media Limited 2020
suew@warnersgroup.co.uk – 01778 392405 emphasise that all views and opinions expressed in articles
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www.climber.co.uk
www.climber.co.uk MAY–JUN
JAN–FEB 2019
2021 3
Contents
news
6 Neil Gresham adds Final Score (E10) in the Lakes – interview,
James Pearson climbs Tribe plus news round-up.
interview
30 Mick Lovatt
Keith Sharples talks to ‘The Perfect Man’ about early days at Malham
to recent scary trad.
boulDering
60 Northcott
First-rate sea side bouldering on the North Devon coast.
gear
70 Active Insulation
Bruce Goodlad reviews breathable synthetic mid-layers that keep you
active (and warm) without stopping to re-layer.
regulars
12 UK Classics
Questor (VS 4b), Wynd Cliff, Wye Valley, England.
76 Book Reviews
Élisabeth Revol’s To Live, Winter 8000m and The Climbing Bible.
79 BMC Update
The latest news from the British Mountaineering Council.
82 Climber Legends
Élisabeth Revol.
Front Cover: Steve McClure climbing Hilti Base Jump (F8a+) at Saint Cézaire, France.
Photo: Keith Sharples
56
4 Jan–Feb 2021 www.climber.co.uk
60
www.climber.co.uk JAN–FEB 2021 5
headlines
Like Equilibrium, Neil’s latest new year given you have had less time
route, Final Score, features both tech- on rock or do you think it’s actually
nically hard and bold climbing; you helped you by enabling you to train
might think as such that it’s the pre- harder than ever?
serve of the young. Although, as Neil It’s certainly been a strange year and
wrote in his post: “As a father of two, I don’t think I would ever have predict-
hard trad feels very different to me ed the outcome. No doubt there have
these days…” Neil’s experience as one been positives to take and we’ve seen
of the best all-round climbers in the UK countless climbers upping their game
means he’s very well-placed to prepare with home training and then cashing
and manage the risks/issues involved. in on the results, so I suppose I’m one
Notwithstanding, Final Score tested of many. Looking back on lockdown,
Neil to the max as he commented after I can see now that I was building up
the first ascent: “I think it might just be to something, but I think I was playing
the hardest route I’ve ever climbed.” the classic distraction game and
Coming from someone who has been pretending to myself that I wasn’t.
climbing as long as Neil with a CV like
his that’s quite a statement. When you repeated Equilibrium you
Neil described the route as: “A direct said it had a V10 crux, F8b+ climb-
start (climbed previously by Craig Mathe- ing and was a full grade harder
son) and direct finish to Dave Birkett’s than the other E9s that you’d done
notorious test-piece from 1992, If 6 was 9 at that time. How do the numbers
(E9 7a).” He commented: “The resulting stack up for Final Score then in
route throws everything at you from safe comparison with Equilibrium?
boulder cruxes to atrociously protected It’s hard to compare routes of different
boulder cruxes, to forearm-bursting en- styles but I definitely feel that Final Score
durance sections and monster run-outs.” took more out of me than Equilibrium.
Neil has spent quite a bit of time at It requires a broader range of skills and
Iron Crag in 2020. Just after lock-down you need to have sport fitness as well
ended he was quickly in for two addi- as bouldering ability and a cool head
tions, Ironed Out (E8 7a/F8a+) and Way for the bold sections. You’re on it for so
out West (E8 6c/F7c+ R) much longer than a grit route and it’s all
Well, now we know why Neil has about keeping it together and conserving
been focusing on Iron Crag so much. mental and physical energy for the final
Having moved up to Kendal a few years headwall. Overall, I’d liken it to leading
ago from the big smoke, Neil spotted one of the big F8a+/bs in Yorkshire like
the glaring gap on the front face of Iron Predator or The Groove, but with really
Crag. It’s been a long-term objective ever spaced gear, some of which can’t be
since. We caught up with Neil for a chat: trusted.
Neil on the pumpy and Congratulations on Final Score; it’s You describe Final Score as climbing
‘out there’ finish to Final certainly a mighty fine set of num- directly up the centre of the main
Score which is also taken bers at E10 7a and a cracking end wall of Iron Crag, in effect adding
by Neil’s earlier route, to the year. In the context of the both a direct start and a direct
Way out West. Photo: pandemic did you think that Final finish to Dave Birkett’s already
Steve Ashworth Score might have slipped away this fearsome If 6 was 9 (E9 7a/F8a+).
It’s a very obvious – glaringly obvious, astounded that it hadn’t been done ities of a small few). There are countless
in fact – gap on the topo. When did before but then on first inspection, international climbers who would eat
you first switch onto it as a possible I realised why. If 6 Was 9 is a tough this line for breakfast yet in the UK you
line and what were your thoughts proposition without having to add any can count the climbers who are doing
initially having inspected the route? additional climbing to the mix. I say this this sort of thing on one or both hands.
You’re right that the line couldn’t be in the context of top-end British trad, The focus definitely seems to be on other
more obvious and it appeared to be which seems to have slowed down a bit stuff at the moment but as we know,
a clear challenge. I must say that I was recently (with the exception of the activ- these things go in cycles. 6
Let’s talk about the nitty-gritty. centres around a sloping undercut and if a block detached itself (proving Dave
The start then, can you describe you fall off this, you’ll hit the ledge and Macleod’s assessment to be pretty ac-
the start? bounce off it. You then have to clip a curate) but Craig Matheson found a new
The new start is a really pleasant piece of peg from a really tenuous position and placement for the shortest length knife-
climbing. It doesn’t contribute to the grade then reverse to the ledge. It’s the last blade just to the right, which is possibly
and Craig Matheson suggested E5 6b thing you need when you’re so anxious even worse than the original peg. This
after climbing it last November. It seems to crack on and get it over with and, of can be backed up with a skyhook which,
to stay cleaner and drier than the original course, if you fall off the down climb of course, takes extra time and effort to
approach, so it’s a good way to go. you’ll need to start again. place and certainly doesn’t offer guaran-
tees. All told, this amounts to body-
Having done the start you get to When Dave MacLeod made the weight gear that you can lower-off but
the ledge of If 6 was 9. Is there a second ascent of If 6 was 9 in 2007 it probably wouldn’t take a shock load.
good rest there then? he said the climbing was F8a+ sport
You can stand around on the big ledge but protected by three poor pegs The direct finish you’d already done
all day but this only prolongs the agony. and summarised it as: “Steep, earlier this year when you added
The main issue is that you need to go physical and pumpy but positive.” Way out West (E8 6c). Does Final
up to the first peg and then down climb Is that how you found it? Score take in all the hardest climb-
Another angle of Neil on to extend your runners and this turns I’d say that’s spot on. You definitely do ing on that?
Final Score showing the out to be one of the hardest parts of the not want to test the top peg from the Yes, for sure. I’d looked at a couple of
steepness of the route. entire route. You have to do a tricky and crucial last ‘roll over’ crux move. For the alternative ways up the headwall but,
Photo: Steve Ashworth powerful V7-ish boulder problem, which record, the original top peg fell out when for me, this was the purest line as it is
completely inescapable once you commit
to it. You’re effectively adding an E8 to
an E9 and whilst I wouldn’t say that this
automatically gives you an E10, having
led it, I felt that the headwall adds some-
thing significant. It was a very daunting
decision to leave that rest, knowing that
if I dropped the headwall I’d have to
climb If 6 Was 9 again. And, in fact, the
last few moves of the headwall were the
closest I came to blowing it, as I was
pumped out of my mind.
#FURTHERFASTER MONTANE.COM
headlines
Jacopo Larcher did the first ascent or at least ‘the big project at Cadarese’ and a lot of courage for him to stick
back in 2019 and at the time specula- for about 10 years. I’ve walked past it with the process and finish it off.”
tion was rife that it may be the hardest many times on the way to the crag and Jacopo’s ascent piqued James’s
trad route in the world. However, wondered if it was possible to climb or interest but he left it in on the backburn-
Jacopo declined to grade it himself: protect. But, despite it only taking about er last year. When James and wife,
“I prefer not to grade it,” adding “the two minutes to set up a rope, I had never Caroline Ciavaldini, did get to Cadarese
only thing I know is that it’s the most bothered to actually look at the thing.” things didn’t start well: “We arrived in
difficult thing I’ve ever climbed. Both James kept an eye on Jacopo’s Cadarese and everything was really wet.
in sport climbing and in trad climbing. progress: “I followed Jacopo‘s journey For the first couple of days I got maybe
I’ve never tried anything as hard as on the route with interest, first of all an hour to an hour and a half to try the
this before.” Given Jacopo has climbed interested to see if it’s possible and later route – at the end of each day once the
numerous hard routes on trad and to see whether his conviction would seepage from above had dried enough
sport, including Rhapsody (E11), Cobra stand the test of time and if he would and before it started to seep again.
James Pearson on the Crack (5.14b) and La Rambla (F9a+) put everything together. Climbing a first The conditions were pretty bad, but
desperate moves on – it added credence to his ascent. ascent is really hard, much harder than I managed most of the moves, by the
Tribe at Cadarese, Italy. James has known about the line for making a repeat, it took a lot of curiosity skin of my teeth and started to believe
Photo: Pietro Porro some time: “I’ve known about Tribe, for Jacopo to originally check out the line that one day I might be able to climb
the route.”
Remarkably, success came relatively
quickly: “After working the moves for
some days, I climbed the route on my
seventh lead attempt. I’d fallen pretty
close to the top on numerous attempts
before that, but the fickle nature of the
final boulder problem often spat me off,
despite not really knowing why. With lots
of rain forecast over the coming days,
I’d pretty much given up hope, which is
probably exactly what I needed to take
all the pressure off and just concentrate
on climbing.”
James is the first to admit he hasn’t
been on every hard trad route in the
world but he’s been on many and was
confident enough to comment on the
difficulty and nature of Tribe: “For me,
Tribe is by far the hardest series of moves
I have ever done on a trad route and it’s
a real miracle that the thing is actually
possible on gear. It’s rare to find a piece
of rock compact enough to make a series
of sustained hard movements but with
just enough decent gear placements.
Tribe would already be an awesome
sport route and one I’m sure people
would be queueing up to try to climb.
What makes it really special, however,
is that no one needed to place bolts to
climb it safely. Mother nature gave us
everything that we need, right here...
an amazing line, a cool series of holds,
and gear placements, right where you
need them.” n
News rouNd up – uK
Hazel Findlay has repeated Mission On the sport front, Steve McClure made the ninth ascent and days after,
Impossible (E9 7a) on Skyline Buttress, returned to Malham in Yorkshire to Buster Martin was in for the 10th taking
Gallt Yr Ogof in the Ogwen Valley, add Fixation (F8c+) to the Upper Tier. just six sessions in total. Featuring V14/
North Wales. She climbed it just days Taking a line left of Total Eclipse, Fixation Font 8b+ bouldering, getting involved
after her partner, Angus Kille, made was originally bolted by Neil Gresham. with Hubble is a big commitment.
the fourth ascent of this hard trad Having climbed Sabotage (F8c+) in 2016, Originally graded F8c+, Hubble is now
test-piece of Neil Carson’s. Neil bolted Fixation but a disintegrated widely considered to be F9a and as such
Hazel is sure about the quality of the hold on the lip of the roof put paid to Neil one of the first to be given that grade.
climbing: “I think this is the best hard climbing it. Steve stepped up remarking: Billy Ridal had an amazing day boulder-
British trad line I’ve done in the UK and “Absolutely awesome and a route of ing, ticking Superman Sit (Font 8b+)
a real feat of power endurance. Run out contrasts with a vertical techy lower as well as Keen Roof and Fat Lip, both
F8b is probably a better grade than E9 7a wall and then super intense bouldery Font 8b. Having climbed the original
but with the route where it is and the roof, all heel and toe action. One of the Superman (Font 8b) the week before Billy
weather round here I think E9 for effort best I’ve done, and without doubt with returned to climb the sit start on his first
is fair. I really surprised myself yesterday the most exposure.” go of the day. He then drove round to
and had a great time trying that hard. In the Peak District, Ben Moon’s Raven Tor to send Keen Roof and Fat Lip.
For me, climbing is all about those try Raven Tor 1990 test-piece Hubble (F9a) As with Superman, Billy had spent time
hard moments.” has seen two repeats. First Mat Wright before on these.
overseas actioN
Uisdean Hawthorn and Ethan Berman In France, Julia Chanourdie made the
completed a major new route on the third ascent of Adam Ondra’s Eagle-4
Emperor Face of Mount Robson, the (F9b) at St Leger. With that, she now
highest peak in the Canadian Rockies becomes the first French, and third,
topping out at 3,954m. Their route, woman to climb F9b after Angela Eiter
Running in the Shadows, is 2,000m (La Planta de Shiva) and Laura Rogora
in length and weighs in at a hefty VI, (Ali Hulk sit start extension). Over at Pic
AI5, M6. Saint Loup, Seb Bouin added Beyond
Heading to Europe, Jakob Shubert Integral (F9b/+). The 50m route sits at
added La Force Tranquille Direct (Font 8c) the top of the North Face of Pic Saint
at Magic Wood in Switzerland. Having Mountain and is composed of two parts;
climbed Daniel Woods’s original line La first a F9a+ followed by a Font 8a+
Force Tranquille (Font 8c) within the first boulder problem with a good rest in
day, Schubert made equally quick work between.
of the slightly harder direct finish the Heading to Norway, Stefano Ghisolfi
following day: “You basically do the made the second ascent Change, the
hardest part of the original La Force world’s first F9b+ at Hanshallaren.
Tranquille and then instead of matching Originally climbed by Adam Ondra back
the crimp and going out right you do in 2012, Change was the world’s first
another big move straight up to a pocket route to be graded F9b+.
from there you do a rather scary top-out.” Jakob Shubert adding La Force Tranquille Direct (Font 8c) to Switzerland’s Magic Wood.
Photo: Michael Piccolruaz
QUESTOR
WYND CLIFF, Wye Valley
Tony Penning, with thanks to John Willson and Pat littlejohn
for the background and history, writes about on old favourite.
Questor (VS 4b) Right-Hand Crag, Wynd Cliff, Frank Cannings, Pat Littlejohn & Gus Morton
Ali Taylor on the upper section of Questor (VS 4b)
Wye Valley, England 14 February 1970
at Wynd Cliff, Wye Valley. Photo: David Simmonite
Wynd Cliff is the traditional pair of sunny When first climbed Questor was graded Hard When we arrived at the foot of the long
crags visible from Wintour’s Leap, appear- Severe but time and polish has bumped the crack of Questor where it takes the central
ing high on the hillside as you round a grade to a well-deserved Very Severe. line on the left-hand section of The Right-
bend approaching the Forestry Commis- Pat felt responsible for some of the polish Hand crag, the light was poor and it was
sion Lower Wyndcliff car park and picnic on Questor. He spent three years at college spitting with rain. “Your lead,” I said to Mike.
area when driving north on the A466. in Hereford and would always break his He looked up at the grey sky, shrugged and
The place has been a popular beauty spot journey up or down from Exeter to solo got ready.
since the construction of the 365 Steps path routes at Wynd Cliff. He would start with He started up with confidence and moved
up to Eagle’s Nest lookout for the Duke of Questor before working his way through the neatly up to the first crux at about eight
Beaufort in 1828 to enjoy the view. As the other VSs. His hardest solo at that time was metres. At this point you step left and move
information board observes, ‘The view from The Don (E2 5c) but the experience frightened up before stepping back right into the crack.
the Eagle’s Nest lookout has to be one of the him too much to think of soloing that again. Mike went a bit too far left moved up and
best in the Wye Valley. Look across the bend The name Questor (in case you are then in his true style had to use his strength
in the Wye to see the rocks of Wintour’s wondering) is named after one of numerous to cling on as he looked for a solution. He
Leap, the Severn bridges and estuary and, on ancient Roman officials concerned chiefly eventually solved the problem and let out a
a clear day, the Cotswold and Mendip hills.’ with financial administration and was put sigh of relief as he regained the crack.
It’s true, and that’s one reward you get from forward by Gus Morton. Gus, who could be Continuing without incident to the top,
the belay at the top whilst bringing up your good on route names also came up with the every now and then Mike would let me know
partner if you lead the route. nearby Eroica. Well that’s the background as he made one of Questor’s trickier moves
The two upper crags are left and right and although I have climbed Questor a few and cursed my rack for its lack of bigger gear,
respectively of the 365 Steps path, which times over the years, I felt I should climb it useful on this route. Mike belayed at a tree
serves as an approach and useful descent. again before I wrote about it and remind with many slings and called down for me
The climbing is steep and sustained with the myself of what it entailed. So I contacted to climb. I was amazed at how smooth the
best of the routes following strong natural climbing friend Mike Brookes who I knew climb had become making foot placements
lines such as grooves and cracks – safe and wanted to climb the route and he readily precarious. But the climbing itself was still
sound on the right, more adventurous and agreed. fantastic. The moves felt big and committing
exciting on the left. They are all single pitch I like climbing with Mike, he was strong, and you had to climb either side of the crack
routes but they have a big feel to them. The light and couldn’t see very well. Mike had to make progress.
grades range from Severe to mid Extreme, previously been a snowboard instructor, We abbed off in the rain, packed our kit
so there’s something for everyone except mountain bike leader and motor cyclist but and started walking back down to the car.
those looking for E5s. as his condition got worse these activities As we walked Mike gave his verdict. A great
To the right, and only just above the road, became too fast for his eyes, so he took up climb and well worth its three stars. He
is Wyndcliff Quarry, containing predominant- the gentle art of trad climbing. His biggest then compared Questor to the Symonds Yat
ly short sport climbs for sunny evenings or problem was his inability to identify footholds classic, Red Rose Speedway, which was also
when the upper crags are wet. A mile along in certain light. However, his ability to hold graced with three stars. Although Red Rose
the road towards Tintern is a smaller, slightly on to small handholds with nothing for the Speedway was a bit harder at HVS 5a, Mike
scruffy Black Cliff Quarry with a collection feet helped him develop his strength. He thought the moves were similar. High praise
of shorter and mainly easier bolt protected had led an E1 5c recently that was known given how good that route is.
routes. for its lack of footholds on the crux but, of When asking around for other opinions,
Development started at Wynd Cliff with course, no problem for Mike. I must admit, all those I spoke too agreed it was a three-
the first ascents of Questor and Cadillac. I enjoyed watching him climb footless star classic with Wye Valley and Forest of
Cannings and Littlejohn had spotted the through desperate problems but hated it Dean aficionado, Matt Hammersley, even
white rocks of Wynd Cliff whilst at Wintour’s when he found it easier than me. I would declaring it was better when combined with
Leap, where they were making the first try to help Mike, honest, but I usually just its three-star neighbour Cadillac. Now that
ascent of another classic line, Big Brother. added to the problem. would be a good day out. n
EASY
GRITSTONE
BURBAGE NORTH,
PEAK DISTRICT
Words and photography by David Simmonite
WHY IS IT GOOD?
Situated on the eastern side of the One of the other plus points is that cover – after all these articles are
Peak District, Burbage North is one of there are many climbs at VS and to provide a few ideas and the rest is
the National Park’s most popular crags below thus making it an ideal venue left up to you – below are a few of my
and owes this popularity to a number for lower grade climbers or those easier grade favourites spread along
of reasons: close proximity to Sheffield, starting out. Whilst the routes never the length of the edge that make for a
only eight miles west of the centre of reach beyond 14m and many are in the good starting point for any trip there.
Sheffield, thus handy for an after-work 6m to 10m height range they do pack Rather than pick out individual routes
Mutiny Crack on the right- dash; easy unrestricted access with the in the moves and excitement. A final I’ve concentrated on different walls
hand side of Remergence First Walls a minute or so from the benefit of shorter routes is that you can and buttresses, highlighting the most
Buttress is a fully fledged parking; quick drying quality gritstone get a few done in a relatively short appropriate on each in the lower
mini-classic going at HS 4b. that is often referred to as ‘God’s own period of time. grades with the odd, more challenging,
The moves are certainly rock’ and, above all, quality climbs. With far more climbs along the one thrown in for those aspiring to
packed in and it doesn’t give What else could you ask for? edge than this article has scope to harder routes.
in without some real effort.
Recommended Routes:
FIRST WALLS
These are the very first walls (hence the
name) you reach from the parking spot
and are very popular with people nipping
out for a quick hit and groups. Although
the routes are short, they make for good
early leads with decent and relatively
simple protection possibilities. Of these
Route 2 (HVD 4a) and Route 3 (VD) are
cool little routes on the very first wall
and protectable with cams and wires.
Both are showing signs of polish and the
former has a tricky start leading to a
triangular niche and easier finish, the
latter is steady all the way to the top.
The wider Cranberry Crack (HD) and
thinner Twenty Foot Crack (S 4b) are a
lovely pair of neighbourly routes on the
second of the First Walls. Both give
quality crack climbing at different grade
levels and are ideal for practising or
honing your various jamming tech-
niques, with Twenty Foot Crack being one
of the best easier climbs on Burbage.
TRIANGLE BUTTRESS
Moving along the edge, this buttress has
a fine bunch of climbs to try. The starts
for these tend to be the hardest section.
Baseless (VD 4a) gives straightforward
climbing to a burlier finish between two
jutting blocks and Triangle Buttress Arête
(VD 4a) is pleasant after you’ve overcome
the slopers at the start. The corner to the
right is Triangle Crack (HVD 4a) giving a
neat, protectable climb with, once again,
a hard start but with much easier climbing
above and if you can do the start you are
quid’s in. To the right is a favourite of
mine, Little White Jug (VS 5a) which takes
the steep wall with a fingery start and a
well-protected mantelshelf to finish over
the nose – quality gritstone fare. For a
good first lead Steptoe (M) up the wide
stepped crack to the right is worth a
look; a couple of bits of big gear are useful.
OVERHANG BUTTRESS MUTINY CRACK AREA Across the bay to the left, Pulcher-
Around 40m along the Edge is this area A great area and home to one of rime (VS 4b) was first climbed by
and, whilst these parts of the crags are gritstone’s classic routes in the form unsung Peak legend, Dave Gregory,
popular amongst boulderers, two routes of Mutiny Crack (HS 4b). This steep in the 1950s when he used to nip out
stand out in the lower grades. Overhang crack taking a direct line through from school. A jam and gear-eating
Buttress Direct (S 4a) works its way up onto stepped roofs offers up some superb crack, it is easy to get carried away
the slabby wall from the right side of a low jams and juggy holds but only after and place far too much gear but don’t
roof with good intricate, smeary climbing you have overcome the crux start. forget to leave space for your hands
– the sort you would find on harder routes, If you aim to do one route in this and save a little energy for the finish.
whilst the arête to the right is Overhang area make it this one. You’ll thank me for that advice. 6
Buttress Arête (M), a popular beginner’s
route with, again, delicate climbing.
1
4
2 3 5 6
7 8 9 10
TRIANGLE BUTTRESS
1. Little Plumb (D)
2. Base over Apex (VS 4c)
3. Baseless (VD 4a)
4. Triangle Buttress Arête (VD 4a) Burbage North is also a
popular place for the soloist
5. Triangle Buttress Direct (HS 5b)
but only for those with the
6. Triangle Crack (VD 4a) skill and confidence to do it
safely (you often don’t get a
7. Leaning Wall Direct (VS 5b)
second chance unlike using
8. Little White Jug (VS 5a) ropes) and are well within
their grade. Stephen
9. Big Black ‘Un (HVS 5a)
Coughlan is one such climber
10. Steptoe (M) with years of experience and
is on Baseless (VD 4a) on
Triangle Buttress.
ASH TREE WALL HOLLYASH WALL disagree for sure, so it makes for a
Ash Tree Wall is one of my must visit The largest of the walls along Burbage great route to push into this grade.
areas at Burbage with longer routes North, it reaches the giddy heights of After a slightly bold start via a pair of
than those highlighted so far and it can 14m and includes one of the best routes big holes to reach the flake-line, good
also be quieter than elsewhere on the around for those wanting to break into protection and equally good climbing
Edge but keep it to yourself. For the the HVS grade. For an easier introduc- follows – a superb pitch and one of the
stand-out lower grade routes at Ash tion to this wall Green Crack (VD) is best on the edge.
Tree Wall we will take a deep breath excellent and with an abundance of Great Crack (VS 5a) is a bit of a
and start with the narrow squeeze of protection too. The wide crack on its beastly grunt fest and the intimidating
Wall Chimney (HVD). If you fit then well right is Hollyash Crack (VS 4b) which is roof crack isn’t as bad as it looks, you
done, if you don’t move immediately to a different but awesome experience if just have to show it who’s boss when
the right and try the much more open you like a good thrutch. You really need you hand-traverse out and turn the lip
Wall Corner (HVD 4a) complete with at least one BIG cam or two if possible to the simpler upper crack. For a good
a challenging start to gain the fine to protect this, otherwise add a grade old traditional vibe The Big Chimney
V-corner above. as it’s a bold lead without. (HVD) certainly fills the brief and gives
Around to the front is the superb The Knight’s Move (HVS 5a) is a tad good entertainment – the use of all
wandering line of Ash Tree Wall (S 4a) soft for the grade, though others will parts of your body are recommended
offering a plethora of climbing techniques
in its 12m length. Starting with a ‘slip
and slide’ crack, an airy traverse followed
by a slabby staircase and a final romp to OVERHANG BUTTRESS
the top via an open groove. What’s not 1. Ad Infinitum (S 4a) 5. Burgess Face (HS 4c)
to like? The two discernible cracks to
the right are justly popular well-protect- 2. Wednesday Climb (HVS 5b) 6. Burgess Buttress (M)
ed, albeit physical, leads; Ash Tree Crack
3. Overhang Buttress Direct (S 4a) 7. Burgess Street (HD)
(VD) and Bilberry Crack (VD) and are
excellent classic trips. 4. Overhang Buttress Arête (M)
1
6
5
2 4
in places with an escape right at the Brook’s Layback (HS 4b), a delightful
capping stone at this grade. Finally, corner that is best jammed or you Gear
another neat route is the exposed Big can cheat with powerful laybacking.
In terms of gear, a standard rack
Chimney Arête (HS 4b) with lovely Standing proud on the tower-like
of wires up to size 9 and eight
moves and gear. buttress further right are two
or so quickdraws plus a couple
stunning close neighbours – Obscenity
of slings. In addition to this, and
OBSCENITY AREA (VS 4c) and Amazon Crack (HS 4a).
pretty standard for grit given that
This is where things get interesting The Burbage, Millstone and Beyond
they work well in breaks, is a
and somewhat tougher – if you don’t guide sums up Obscenity well, ‘The fat
collection of camming devices
like cracks then move on, though you crack. This is why climbing was such
and the more the merrier but if
will be missing out one of life’s little a laugh in the old days. Put on your
you only have access to a few
joys and as I’ve said before, the art of corduroys, grab some hexes and let
then go for a mix within the size
jamming is a part of climbing you rip’. The climbing is similar on both,
range ½ to 3 as these will cover
should really engage with and is an with the former much more strenuous
most eventualities. A 50m rope
essential tool in your arsenal for grit than the latter but both are perfect
is plenty and it can be doubled
climbing. There is an outstanding trio examples of a sublime gritstone
when you need twin ropes on
of well-protected cracks starting with route.
routes that wander around.
Another good piece of kit, but
certainly not essential, is a
bouldering mat if you have
access to one. Not only will it
save your knees and ankles if you
pop off before the first gear is
placed but it makes for a good
place to sit and eat your lunch. In
terms of climbing shoes, I prefer
softer shoes on grit as they put
more rubber into contact with the
rock when smearing, something
that is inevitable when climbing
this medium.
Guidebooks
There are plenty to choose from,
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond
published by the BMC is the most
comprehensive with all of the
routes. The Peak District Grit
Wired guide is the latest on the
shelf this year with a good
selection of the routes including
those in this article. Rockfax
publish Eastern Grit, again with
a selection of the routes at
Burbage North.
accommodation,
Supplies, etc.
Burbage is on the edge of the
Peak District and, with Sheffield
close by, you will be spoilt for
choice. Hathersage is the closest
place in the Peak with a petrol
station, food shops, a quality
bakery and pubs. For climbing
specific kit the outdoor retailer
Outside is the place to visit and it
also boasts a café. For camping Ella Russell stretching
the most popular site is North on Wall Corner (HVD 4a)
Lees a few minutes’ drive from in the Ash Tree Wall area.
Hathersage and situated below Lovely climbing and pretty
Stanage Edge (tel. 01433 650838). steady for the grade,
For other accommodation check it can be finished direct
out www.visitpeakdistrict.com n at VS 4c if you fancy it?
It was early June 2014 and a friend and I decided to travel down to the Wye Valley
to climb. We had done one other trip together and our physical abilities were well-
matched so we were keen to push each other on. My friend had climbed very little
in the way of traditional routes, whereas I had plenty of experience. We also met
some other friends who were climbing some the safer sport routes in the area.
Our first day went exceptionally well. first path lay a mole... stone dead and in had accompanied the other sections of
The crag – Shorn Cliff – is set in beau- perfect condition. I joked about it being the crag. It was eerily quiet and I sudden-
tiful beech tree woodland, high above a bad omen, but once again dismissed ly felt very nervous.
Tintern Abbey. The dense woodland it and carried on. After all, I’m not really Nevertheless, I set off feeling strong
and long approach give the crag an superstitious. We chose to climb three and moving well. I placed gear as I went
exclusive and remote feel. On first classic HVS routes that morning – The – a pink Tri-cam, then a few moves up
acquaintance, it can be exceptionally Laughing Cavaliers, The Bitter Battle Tears a good small Dragon cam, then another
difficult to find your way to the correct and No Musketeers. My partner led the tricky move and I placed a very good and
section of crag, with small streams, first two and looked cool and confident high number 4 nut. By now I was prob-
steep ground and boulders thickly cov- throughout, his gear looking much better ably eight or 10m up and the climbing
ered with damp moss everywhere, not than the previous day. I led No Muske- started getting harder. I was very happy
to mention the dense woodland. Nev- teers and managed to drop all but about with the gear and the moves, which
ertheless, we found our way eventually four wires in the first 10m. This could although hard, seemed very doable. But
and had a very successful day with us have been a major issue but I laughed it for some reason, every sense in my body
both ticking off some great E1s and off, carried on and completed the 30m was screaming for me to go down. I had
HVS grade routes; a few to mention route with some sizeable run-outs, once never experienced a feeling quite like it
were Tigers Don’t Cry (HVS), The Bone again looking and feeling confident and so I called down to my friend to take the
(E1), Emotional Dyslexia (HVS) and chatting all the way. When I got down rope tight and he lowered me down. I
Motion Pictures (E1). most of the day was up and it must have must admit I felt a little embarrassed and
At the time I was feeling very comfort- been around 2pm. We were both tired. couldn’t fully explain why I had given
able at these grades, having recently We spoke about what a fantastic week- up at such a safe place on the route. My
climbed my first E3, so I was feeling end we had had and even mentioned climbing partner was very supportive
confident and maybe even a little cocky. that we would both be happy to head though and also very psyched to try
And my partner, although inexperienced home early, such was our level of fulfil- himself. I was still nervous but starting to
when it came to trad, was a highly ment. That said, we were both greedy get excited for him for what could be his
skilled sport climber, confident to push and eager for one last stab at pushing first E2. We both buzzed as we swapped
until he fell and used to doing so on ourselves. gear and looked at the guide and route.
outside routes. When we headed to the We wandered along to almost the We talked about where the line went and
pub that evening, we were full of our- very end of the crag, an area called where it would be likely to get gear. We
selves – big smiles all round. We waxed Hit and Run Buttress – named after both felt confident that he could climb
lyrical about the success of our day to an E2 that we had decided to try. The the route safely so he set off.
our friends and planned ahead for more approach was more difficult than other At first, he clipped into the pieces that
of the same the following day. There was areas we had been to, and as soon as I had placed, quickly getting to the spot
talk of us all going to a crag together we left the main forestry track, we felt where I had stopped. He made short
but our hearts were set on returning to lost. Muddy streams and moss-covered work of that lower crux, pulling through
Shorn Cliff and with no bolted routes boulders made progress very slow. with confidence. But then he stopped,
for the others to climb, the decision was After one wrong turn we came across a needing to place gear, he looked a little
made – we would go back there alone huge beech tree that had fallen off the rattled as he realised that the large piece
again the next day. top of the cliff. We crawled under it and of rock he had used to pull through was
Something was different that next finally, after another 50m we were at loose and really dangerous. I offered up
morning; I couldn’t put a finger on it and the base of the route. We chatted for a advice and tried to talk to him to keep
I was used to feeling a little nervous be- bit, flaked ropes and decided it would be him calm. Thankfully he managed to
fore a climbing day so just dismissed it. me to attempt the route, being the more get a number 5 nut in off to the right. He
We walked in dappled sunlight down the experienced. This end of the forest was then pulled left onto an easy but gearless
steep long track towards the start of the deserted and we couldn’t even hear the rib which he shakily followed for about
steep approach paths. Right below the familiar clinking of climbing gear that seven metres. Now nearly 20m up, and
seven from his last piece, the next gear had a brief chat about how good it was. excitement as I watched every move and
was crucial. I shouted up something He assured me that both bits were excel- held tightly to the ropes. He seemed to
along those lines to make sure he got lent and bomber and with that, carried stop a second before making a big move
it right. He placed one piece – a purple on up into the steep crack splitting the left to what I guess he thought was a good
number 1 Dragon cam and he was ready upper headwall. hold in the crack. What happened next
to continue when I shouted for him to He started heading right of the crack, seemed to bend time itself. He missed the
place another as the climbing above up the blank-looking wall and got a few hold and fell maybe five metres, the ropes
looked hard. He did this, placing a very metres above the gear. I could hear my pulling tight on both pieces of gear, and
small number 1 or 2 nut and then we heart beating in my throat with nervous then ripping out simultaneously. 6
01>
■ KEY NEWS
£5.50
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GILWERN HILL
south Wales
Guy Percival gives a run-down on the recent developments and climbing opportunities
around the Gilwern area on the edge of the Brecon Beacons in South Wales.
INTRODUCTION
Gilwern Hill is nestled in the southeastern corner of the Brecon Beacon National Park and rises high above Abergaven-
ny and the Heads of the Valley road. Its soft rolling hills have recovered from the ravages of huge industry; 170 years
ago South Wales was the world’s greatest producer of iron. Vast qualities of limestone, which was an essential compo-
nent for the production, was blasted out of the hills. The industry had all but gone 80 years later and now tram lines,
lime kilns and slag heaps have been left, along with miles of miles of weathered quarried faces. The mighty Llangattock
escarpment alone extends for over three miles. The quarried faces that have been left are now home to a fine collection
of routes – initially trad but in recent years sport climbs have become the norm. What follows is a summary of each
venue spread around the hillside.
GILWERN HILL
access
Gilwern Hill is easily reached from the A465. Pass through
Govilon then head up The Tumble, which is a well-known cycling
challenge. It winds up steeply, gaining half a mile in height over
just three miles. At the very top on the left is the keepers’ pond,
take a right turn and after a mile the car parking area, just
before the gate across the road, is reached. The climbing areas
are reached via a very scenic walk across the top of the hill.
overview
The area is almost exclusively sport with a few trad routes.
There has been extensive development over the last three
years and the area has almost 220 sport routes, many of which
are in the lower grades. All but 30 of them are F6c or below.
12mm stainless bolts have been used to equip the recently
developed areas and the bolting on most of routes is on the
‘friendly side’ and there is plenty for the novice or intermediate
climber to have a go at. Very few of the routes are more than
15m so a 50m or even 30m rope with about a dozen quick-
draws will suffice. There are a handful of very good trad routes
at Gilwern East for which you may want to take a rack.
aspect
The different areas are just below the top of the hill and are,
therefore, generally fairly exposed with the exception of
Gilwern-in-the Woods. The quarries face different directions
so it is possible to either find an area either in or out of the
sun. Wrap up warm if going over the colder months.
amenities
There are plenty of cafes and shops in Abergavenny and
Gilwern has a couple of small food shops.
Guidebook
Clare Lindley climbing Driven 2 Destruction (F6a) in the Gilwern Motor Museum area
The definitive guide to the area is The Gilwern Area published
of Gilwern West. The route gives excellent and sustained climbing in its 12m length.
by Great Western Rock in 2020.
Photo: Mark Davies
Gilwern east
The walls are tucked just down below an exciting steep journey though bulging some ledges which is a newly developed
the eastern side of the hill. There is a good flowstone. Just to the right is The Plumb wall (The Secret Gallery) with five
spread of grades from F4 though to F7a+. (F5+) which grapples up a great line of worthwhile routes between F5 and F6c.
The rock is generally excellent and some interesting formations. Further along is
of the routes are heavily decorated with a pristine grey sheet and the route of the Gilwern-in-the-woods
flowstone. They face east so get plenty of quarry, Wall of Balls (E4/5 6a), weaves About 300m further on is another newly
sun in the morning. The left-hand sector its way up it. The route was climbed by developed area which was christened
is a pleasant area with a lovely compact Martin Crocker and John Harwood when Gilwern-in-the-Woods. The rock is
vertical wall. Black Knights Rein (F6a) is they visited the crag in 2007. Paul Tucker superb and there is a route at almost
a great introduction. Further to the right and Pete Blackburn started developing every grade between F4 and F7b+.
are Grey Wall (F6a+), Micro-waves (F6c) the quarry with sport routes in 2012. They The quarry is sheltered in the trees
and Litiginous (F6b/6b+) which are good inadvertently bolted Wall of Balls which so needs a bit more time to dry out
crimpy wall climbs. On the right is a became a very popular F6b+ but in 2019 but a great place to go to escape hot
striking off-width, What’s the Craic (E1 5b). this route and another popular sport route weather. Every route is worthwhile but
Definitely worth taking a rack for, if you at the crag, Rich and Filthy (E4/5 5c), The Vanity of Small Differences (F6c) and
are into that sort of thing. were de-bolted by Crocker and Harwood The Two Hundred Year Echo (F6a+) really
The quarry then gains height and is and there was much consternation. stand out. God Bless Asia Bibi (F7a+)
far more featured with flowstone. Don’t Keep going into the woods and you is probably the best 7th grade on the
miss out on Magic Carpet (F6b+) which is will soon arrive at a steep wall above whole of the hill.
Following a boulder
problem style start,
Brian Mullan is making
progress up the groove
on The Two Hundred
Year Echo (F6a+),
Gilwern-In-The-Woods.
Photo: Mark Davies
The road runs right above the top of beguiling line up a blank-looking wall. Motor Museum. Big reaches between big
the crag and for this reason was the fly Don’t Worry be Snappy (F7b+) and Dim holds are the order of the day. Drive by
tipping location choice for those in the Tipio Anghyfreithlon (F7b) – which is Shooting (F6a) and Driven 2 Destruction
know. It had literally hundreds of worn welsh for no fly tipping – are pretty (F6a) are excellent and good warm-ups
tires, abandoned vehicles, bags of good harder offerings. for some of the harder routes. You can
household garbage and even a grave- Further to the right, the lower tier crank up the difficulty on Chassis Chassé
stone strewn along its base. The area and the upper tier are connected by a (F7a) and then go full throttle on Need
has now been tidied up and so much couple of big and rather adventurous for Speed (F7b).
better for it and the road has been routes and lay claim to be the longest A little further along is the Alpine
gated off on the other side of the hill. on the hill. Ivor Biggan and Everybody Ridge Sector and a hand line leads from
Sue Hazel taking a The Tyre Sector is a bit of a mixed Wants One, both at F5+, are fantastic the top of ridge above a big drop to
breather on Flow bag and can be a bit brittle in places. outings for the grade. a very nicely positioned brown wall.
Job (F6b) on the Main However, the rock towards the middle The lower tier fizzles out and the Caramel Wall (F6c+) gets a star for the
Wall at Gilwern North. of the sector is very good. The Walls rest of the routes take the steep stratified climbing and a further star for the
Photo: Mark Davies Have Ears (F7a) takes a sustained and upper tier which is known as the Gilwern exposed position.
MICK LOVATT
The PerFecT Man
Mick Lovatt has been a regular on the climbing scene since the mid-70s. Having risen
through the ranks at Preston City Council hitting the heady heights of Corporate
Director, Mick retired to the Llŷn Peninsula, North Wales a couple of years ago. Instead
of strutting his stuff down the Llanberis High Street, cruising easy routes and tending
an allotment on his rest days he’s still nailing it on hard routes. To the bewilderment
of many of his peers, the author included, Mick has also taken – like a proverbial duck
to water – to the loose and bold delights of Craig Doris; a crag that many find utterly
alarming. Keith Sharples talks to Mick Lovatt a.k.a. TPM – The Perfect Man.
EARLY DAYS
I first heard of you when I rocked
up to the Cookie Cliff in Yosemite
to try Crack-A-Go-Go (E3/4) in Sep-
tember 1980. The boulder beneath
the route was heavily splattered
with your dried blood. You’d tried it
earlier that week, fallen and ripped
a load of gear in a nasty fall and
severed an artery. How long had
you been climbing at that point
and what had led you to Yosemite?
Wow. What a hideous memory to start
an interview with. I had been climbing
about six years at that point. It was my
second trip to Yosemite, the first was
a year earlier. I was smitten with ‘the
Valley’ after reading about it in an article
entitled Yosemite Shorties by John Sheard.
I had a few good routes under my belt
in the UK so Crack A Go Go should have
been fairly straightforward. However,
in typical British style I paid no mind to
conditions, it was hot – very hot – and in
full sun too. I set out, climbed through a
gnarly old tree at the base of the route,
placed a cam in the wide left-hand crack
and smeared rightwards to the fingertip
layback crack that forms the meat of the
route. I made greasy progress placing
four wires at arm’s length blindly in the
thin crack and eventually reached a flat route. I had stripped all my wires but How much of an influence did that
hold which once stood on would have didn’t deck-out due to the cam placement fall have on you?
been the end of the difficulties. However, in the first crack. I sustained various It had a huge effect on me both mentally
I just couldn’t stand up or chalk up due lacerations but the worst one was a deep and physically. I was back climbing again
to the greasiness of the smooth granite puncture wound to my right thigh which within eight weeks of the accident, the
so I shouted: “Take.” I later found out had gone through the puncture wound and other lacerations had
The rest was a blur, what should have artery. I’m forever grateful to friends healed well, but my leg was still badly
been a three to four foot drop on to the Roger Whitehead (now deceased), bruised and black from my arse to my ankle
Mick Lovatt. top wire ended up as a 40ft plummet Steve Monks and Christof Stiegler who and I could barely straighten my knee. I was
Photo: Jethro Kiernan through the tree at the bottom of the applied first aid and arranged rescue. keen to climb but things weren’t the same.
SPORT YEARS
You and John Monks were involved
with the Pen Trwyn boom. What
routes were you doing and how
was your climbing developing
after your Yosemite accident?
The Pen Trwyn boom of late ’82 and
throughout ’83 (and beyond) was an
unbelievable time to be climbing. A
new approach to the sport was upon
us, new techniques were creeping in
and slowly being adopted. Pen Trwyn
was pretty much a blank canvas on
which we could practise. As a working
climber, weekends couldn’t come around
quick enough. New lines to go at, easily
accessible and with mostly good weather
throughout the year. We were running
around ticking off second ascents or
early repeats every weekend trying to top
the charts for most number of ‘E points’
achieved in a day. Great days indeed.
The Pen Trwyn boom got me back
on my game, the climbing suited my
style, steep and fingery needing stamina
and tenacity rather than raw power to
succeed. I was leading E5 and feeling
confident to push on for bigger and
better things. ‘E’ grades were appropriate
for the time as bolts were used judicious-
ly in the early days.
In the late 80s and onwards you intricacies of climbing on limestone We saw something one day in 1984 Mick Lovatt climbing the Well
climbed at lot in the Yorkshire such as devious hidden pockets and I think that opened our eyes to what was Dunne Finish (F8b) at Malham
Dales. What attracted you to the flakes giving holds and protection. happening not only at the Cove but the Cove in Yorkshire back in
climbing there? That same day we walked around leap in standards British climbing was 2003. Photo: Steve Wilcock
I first climbed at Malham Cove in 1975 The Catwalk ogling the huge sweep about to take. John Monks and I had
up on the Left Wing doing easy routes of bulging limestone, home to some been climbing on the Upper Terrace and
with a guy called Steve Wilcock who of the most impressive aid lines in the having done Sundance Wall (E2 5c) and
essentially started me climbing; I loved country. Never did it cross my mind Butch Cassidy (E4 6b) we were feeling
it. The rock texture, the exposure high that I’d be back in just a few short pretty pleased with our efforts. However,
on the wings of a big rock face and the years to climb many of them free. when we looked over the edge we 6
could see a guy down on Main Overhang Yeah, I guess so. I really liked the long Around that time you were a regular
clipping the aid bolts but free climbing routes rather than the shorter more in adverts in the mags; always
past them. It turned out to be Rob powerful ones, even though I did immaculately dressed and looking
Gawthorpe. We were amazed, we manage a few of those too like Austrian suave and sophisticated – at least
thought: “We want some of that,” Oak (F8b), Overnight Sensation (F8a+) for a climber. Is this a good time to
and scuttled off home and back to the and Connect Four (F8a). I much preferred ask when and where the moniker,
gym. The potential at Malham was routes where you needed a bit of tenacity; The Perfect Man, came from?
immense and we wanted to be a part routes where you have to not only Ha, ha. Sophisticated. I like that but I’ve
of it. I didn’t know it at the time but that work out how to do the moves but also got to perpetuate the myth. I think some
was the start of three decades during where and how to rest and for how things are better left unsaid.
which Yorkshire limestone would be long. The Well Dunne Finish (F8b) is
keeping me occupied. a perfect example of what I’m getting You also did a number of first
at. To succeed on that I had to climb ascents including Climb of the
David Jones’s seminal book, The Zoolook (F8a) really smoothly then Century (F8a+), a photo of which
Power of Climbing, was published clip a long quickdraw on the belay – with you climbing – was on the
in 1991. You were labelled as a then step down to fashion a marginal front cover of the 2004 Northern
‘stamina merchant’ and included rest using an elbow and half a butt Limestone Rockfax guidebook. If
within The Hustlers in Chapter Five cheek. Chris Gore who was on belay you had to pick a route you were
having ticked the longer endurance then set the stopwatch going and most proud off would that be it?
routes like Supercool and The Groove allowed me a full 10 minutes to Clearly, I think any first ascensionist is
(both F8a+) as well as Predator recover before attacking the crux proud of his or her achievements partic-
(F8b). Fair assessment then? bulge above. ularly when others aspire to climb them.
There’s no doubt Climb of the Century is a You’re right there were some real Such antics came to an abrupt halt
good route with great moves but it starts characters about back then and it’s when I tried similar after topping out on
halfway up the crag, lacks something of easy to forget how well so many people my new route Twisted (F8a). Standing on
a line and doesn’t top-out. On reflection were climbing. It was really competitive, the ledge having finished the route I felt
I’m probably more proud of, say, Deer relentless, week after week. If someone pretty pleased with myself and untied
Bield Crack (XS) in the Lakes or some of was seen to be pulling away from the from the rope to walk back down the
my later Doris routes. pack they were soon slapped down path to the catwalk. It was then that I
with some acerbic banter. heard the chants of jump, jump, jump
Which other routes from that There was a time when we started from Dunne, Andy Jack, Paul Ingham
period stick in your mind? doing new routes at the Cove and not and Ian Horrocks so I promptly tied
I guess two of the ‘big’ routes I did in putting a belay at the top to lower off. back on and stepped backwards off
that period were at Blue Scar. Strangely Getting to the top of the route then the ledge. My last bolt was way down
for that period (sport climbing) they are jumping off was in vogue for the summer. so this was going to be a big one. Unfor-
trad routes. Stairway to Heaven (E7 6c) John Dunne had instigated it to keep the tunately for me the rope caught my
and Deathwish (E7 6b). Both are Pete tourists to the Cove entertained. He would ankle and flipped me upside down.
Gomersall routes and both were trouser do a lap on say Breach of the Peace (F8a) I was now flying upside down and
fillers but with a lasting satisfaction that stand on the ledge at the top with nothing backwards and landed with an almighty
many bolted routes just can’t offer. to clip he’d take a step backwards taking BOOM as my back and shoulders hit the
what was to become known as a ‘Hawai- rock first, at least 70ft lower. Amazingly
There were some real characters ian’ (a 50ft pisser) named after cult TV I got away with it, I couldn’t breathe
and high jinks back then; do you series Hawaii 50. He did the same at the properly for a week but I had silenced
have any stories you’d like to share? top of the Well Dunne Finish (F8b). the crowd. 6
How many sleepless nights have you had to endure? You seem
hopelessly addicted to Doris so what’s your next project there?
Doris is addictive, such a beautiful place to climb as is the whole of Pen Ll n.
As for sleepless nights, there has been a few but I guess it’s no different
than the visualisation process I go through with any hard route sport or trad.
What’s next? Well I’m on with writing a new guide to the area with Pat Little-
john and he keeps pestering us to do the second ascent of his 18-pitch girdle
of the crag called War and Peace (E5). I think we’d have tried it this year but
a fat young fulmar nesting mid-crag has put us off. Well that’s our excuse.
GOING FORWARD
You’ve said in the past that you’ll continue with hard rock
routes whilst you can maintain the fitness and the enthusiasm.
For up to date news,
As you approach your 50th year of climbing is that still your
game plan then?
I guess so, climbing is so much more than a sport, so many facets, so many
articles, bouldering,
levels. Climbing for me is a way of life.
What about the North Face of the Eiger? That was one of your
interviews, videos,
early ambitions; has that ship sailed do you think?
Unfortunately, I think it probably has, although me and John Dunne did have
a look at the topos of some of the newer rock routes up the North Face a
competitions, reviews,
year or two ago. I didn’t get too keen as I’m sure Mrs Lovatt would have
something to say about it, it’s still the Eiger after all. training and skills
Have you any other major ambitions left to achieve in climbing?
To “keep on keeping on” to quote Bob Dylan.
Now easier to navigate and
works across all devices
As well you know, the wags out there re-named you TPP – The
Perfect Pensioner – when you retired. You love it though – don’t you?
Cheeky bastards! Ha, ha, ha! n
WWW.CLIMBER.CO.UK
www.climber.co.uk Jan–Feb 2021 35
DESTINATION
Whilst the crowds congregate, and the ticket wardens earn their bonuses,
Hen Cloud remains eerily empty. Flanked by The Roaches and Ramshaw
Rocks, Hen Cloud juts its mighty chin to the south marking the craggy
limit of this edge of the Peak District National Park.
In the words of Dave Jones back in the late 70s, ‘Hen Cloud must be one of the
most underrated crags in the world. It is tall, green and powerful; few other
grit buttresses challenge it for situation, quality and length’. Needless to say,
little has changed in this way in the succeeding four decades.
SMALL BEGINNINGS
Wandering across from The Roaches, through windy gap Breaking from the footpath and down the hill across
and onto the back of the crag the first lump of rock tussocks and forgotten gateways the Aiguilette comes
encountered is the Baud Stone. Perched on its plinth of into view. This micro-pinnacle offers a variety of highball
three smaller stones it’s hard to imagine that it found itself options from the great and the good: John Allen’s Starlight
there naturally, yet also just as hard to imagine how anyone and Storm and Simon Nadin’s Simon’s Slab are frustrating
would’ve levered it into place. A few rumours still circulate in the least. Even with a pad or two height advantage and
of its healing qualities for anyone who crawled beneath it a springy start they always feel that simply initiating the
to knock the ‘devil off their back’, or of its solar alignment climbing is the crux of the matter. Nonetheless, this little
with the Solstice sunrise and the Ramshaw Serpent. Whatever craglet is an oasis from the main event and one which
the archaeology of this stone, it’s holding onto its secrets. shouldn’t be forsaken.
The right side of the wall is climbed Pete Bridgwood making the
via some infectious routes. Anthrax decisive moves into the crack
(E4 6a) flaps its way up the narrow on the brilliant Comedian
crack on the right of the buttress before (E3 6a) in the Bachelor’s Area.
officially finishing up the gash of Stone
Loach – I personally think just escaping
at the ledge is a better-balanced route.
Between the two is Myxi (E6 6c), a
route which I first climbed on Valentine’s
Day in 2008. I’d spent some time preparing
for the route and found myself sitting
beneath it alone on a chilly morning
desperate to crack on as a light drizzle
began to blow in from the east. I sent out
messages asking for a belayer before,
finally, going for it regardless. Successfully
topping out I ran back down only to see
my friend slogging up the hill to join me.
I slipped and skipped over to him to tell
him: “I’ve just done it,” “You’re joking
right?” He was fuming, led up the steepest
walk-in in the western Peak under false
pretences. We walked down together in
seething silence. A blinded rabbit limped
across my path and I did what was right.
DELSTREE
A crag of such absolute class clearly didn’t
fly under the radar of the greatest British
climber. Joe Brown added eight lines of
upmost quality which would alone create
a fantastic challenge for a day’s cragging.
To pick out the best of these additions,
plus the one added on the right-hand side
of the crag by his illustrious climbing
partner Don Whillans, is a challenge in
itself. Indeed, any single one of these
routes would be enough to bring a smile
to your face. Overwhelmingly their routes
followed exacting crack lines up the crag,
although one, En Rappel (HVS 4c), demon-
strates a broad spectrum of technical
excellence by straightening out what was
previously known as Blizzard Buttress.
A series of mantels unnervingly lead
you into a position of uncompromising
exposure especially as the rock quality
begins to diminish enough to cause you
to want to limpet. Regardless, the carrot
of holds or protection tempt you on…
If Delstree (HVS 5a) didn’t have its
mildly scrappy start up the grassy glacis
it would surely be heralded as one of the
absolute classics of gritstone. The delicate
start and strenuous crack line offer a
climbing experience far superior to that
of the nearby Roaches classic The Sloth
or Great Western further afield at Almscliff
in Yorkshire. If there’s one route to define
Hen Cloud, this is the one.
Between the two are a couple of
my favourites from two different eras:
Main Crack (VS 5a) provides a glaringly
obvious line with superb exposure
through its upper reaches, exposure
which is thankfully remedied by the
solid wedging the crack offers. 6
It’s worth taking in the view whilst you For easier fare and starting in the Laycock went on to write in Recent 8 Having placed bomb proof
can as the remaining third of the climb same place as Delstree, Reunion Crack Developments on Gritstone (1924) ‘Not gear Andi Turner is amidst
is a more of a speleological affair. This (VS 5a) gives another good, characterful, everyone has been benighted on gritstone the delightful sequence
and Delstree were first led by Brown in climb via a rather steep corner/flake and, though one ought to be ashamed of moves that lure you on
the late 50s, but it would be another crack. Decidedly strenuous yet festooned of want of prudence, the episode is upwards (or not) on Borstal
a couple of decades before one of the with plentiful gear and wonderful holds. delightful to me in retrospect. Gritstone Breakout (E4 6b).
most iconic climbers of these western has its romance no less that granite’.
crags stepped onto the scene. GRAND CENTRAL Complementing Central Climb, and 4 The Arête (HVD 4a) is a
One of the most enigmatic figures Returning to ground level the grass gets what would be the making of a classic superb and exposed route
in Staffordshire climbing, Jonny Wood- deeper and the crag reaches its full height. day out, are K2 (S 4b) and The Arête following a stepped arête
ward’s contributions to these edges are The classic line there goes through the (HVD 4a) – both of a similar length and up the full length of the crag.
some of the most mind bending and in crag in its entirety, from its deepest depths difficulty yet with characters all of their Andi Turner returns to solo
many ways define the harder climbing in to its summit, 30m of quintessential own. The steep and uncompromising K2 the route after a judgement
the region; the terrifyingly delicate lines classic rock. Laycock and Thompson goes from a closed-in corner to a small call on his first visit to the
of Piece of Mind at The Roaches or the provided the historical first ascent of lawn for a belay stance before forcing crag years before.
masochistic technicalities of National Central Climb (HS 4c) in 1909. Chauffeured a line up the crack above and into the
Acrobat at Ramshaw only go to demon- to the crag, the two set off on the route. open air of the rib above. The Arête is an
strate the pure skill of this climber. On The first pitch, however, proved too astonishing climb at the grade, although
Hen Cloud, he added (well, straightened challenging for Thompson, and as Laycock not one for a first lead as the protection
out) Caesarian (E4 6b) which is now one had likely forgotten his prusiks, he is sparce and the climbing is probably
of the ‘Big C’ (along with Comedian, battled on alone. Beneath the final pitch, as exposed as you could find at this
Caricature, Corinthian and Chameleon) benighted, Laycock did the sensible thing standard. I remember on my first visit to
routes on the crag. An immaculate route and hunkered down only to have a top crag nonchalantly setting off to solo the
with every move being of interest and a rope lowered to him by his chauffer and route but, as the difficulties increased,
benchmark at 6b. Thompson with which to finish the route. I finally had to swallow my pride and 6
downclimb for a rope. Between Central Brown’s Slimline (E1 5b/V1). Despite the I tend to belay on the boulder below the
Climb and K2 is a line for someone after crag seldom being bedecked with boulder- top allowing me to enjoy the spectacle of
something harder and a three-star outing. ing pads, these routes along with Nutted my second and avoid the disappointing
Encouragement (E1 5b) gives a lovely, by Reality (E1 6a/V4) and Touch (E4 6c/V7) belay selection on the summit proper.
balanced climb over two pitches with that can be found elsewhere along the Bachelor’s Left-Hand is so much better
a gem of a first pitch up a corner/groove crag, certainly would warrant a circuit than its name suggests as it cuts a
leading to a very comfortable ledge. The along with an exploratory eye for the majestic swathe up through this enormous
upper pitch is by contrast steeper and many boulder problems which can be bastion of rock, curving a line of impecca-
requires a variety of different sized jams developed and uncovered across the crag. ble quality and is one of the true classic
to manoeuvre up the crack line. rock climbs. Irrelevant of grade, this one
Also, here, Borstal Breakout (E4 6b) BACHELOR’S DELIGHT stands amongst the finest British rock
shouldn’t be missed. The front face of the The final main wall of the crag, the climbs and should be treated as such.
‘flatiron’ contains an incipient crack line Bachelor’s Area, is arguably the finest The grainy image of Don Whillans setting
going from wide to small offering a good section of the crag. The rock being sail into the crux moves with his rope
little bomb shelter at its end, just before plumb vertical and enticingly decorated
petering out completely and leaving you with cross bedding rock architecture. The
beached on the headwall. From there a Comedian (E3 6a) presents the tamest of
delightful sequence lures you into its lab- the ‘C’ routes, though it still shouldn’t be
yrinth of holds before landing you on the underestimated as it does that ‘crux’ thing
picnic ledge or hanging in your harness. that Hen Cloud does so well. After figuring
The top pitch is normally avoided, but out the steep lower wall the deep break
those with an ample reach might take offers salvation in the form of bombproof
it on purely for bragging rights and a protection but also that double-edged
‘full’ tick. sword of a sanctuary which so often prove
The crag now closes into an amphi- desperate to leave and instead simply
theatre which separates the two masses whittle away at your power reserves as
of the outcrop. Scrambling up onto the you nibble back and forth trying to fathom
top of the second crag and looking out the cryptic moves to gain the crack proper.
towards Jodrell Bank the parallel lines of Beyond this, Brown, and this time Don
gritty inclusions can be seen to punctuate Whillans, once again struck gold with
the buttresses, tying the crag together in their pick of the crop in the form of Hen
an ancient hemline. A small amount of Cloud Eliminate (HVS 5b) from Brown
bouldering can be enjoyed initially before and Bachelor’s Left-Hand (HVS 5b) led by
Having overcome the the crag quickly erupts into its usual Whillans. Hen Cloud Eliminate will genuin-
strenuous layback section tumultuous form. Somewhere between ely test your crack climbing skills from
below his feet, Gus Hudgins the bouldering and the routes lie a couple narrow hands to hand stacks (if you like
is enjoying the upper section of strong highballs in the form of Stokesline that sort of thing) with nowhere to hide
of Reunion Crack (VS 5a). (E2 6b/V4), This Poison (E3 6b/V5) and for those who are left lacking in the art.
uselessly hanging from his waist into the but not before a final demonstration of contorted groove on Llanberis slate
pointless mitts of Joe Brown below is as class. Rounding the corner of this mighty climbed with hands on one wall and feet
harrowingly haunting as it is inspiring. wall, the deep cleft of Great Chimney (HVD on the other – but you’ll have to work
An easier way to gain the upper 4a), first climbed by the powerful early out how to top-out if that’s the case.
crack of Bachelor’s Left-Hand is the fine pioneers Siegfried Herford and Stanley The final crock of gold is Rainbow
Bachelor’s Climb (VS 4c). Yet another Jeffcoat in 1913, becomes apparent. This Crack (VS 4c) with some impeccable
sublime, though strenuous, fluted jamming can be climbed in a variety of old school jamming and bridging on its upper The superb Hen Cloud
crack to the right leads upwards to a methods, preferably involving some kind section. This route rounds off what has Eliminate (HVS 5b) is one
cheeky traverse across to the Left-Hand of wedging, wobbling and worrying. been an astonishing journey across the of Joe Brown’s many fine
crack. You can belay up on ‘The Pulpit’ Typically, it’s climbed on the left to a belay crag and what leaves me perplexed as to additions to Hen Cloud and
and step back down gain the upper crack ledge then finished on the right, but its unpopularity. Not that I’m complain- a route that will test your
but it’s much better in one long pitch. those with reversible hips might be able ing, it’s a beautiful oxymoron that the crack climbing skills. Andi
Hen Cloud now peters off into a to bridge. You can also go ‘full Quarry- finest crag in the Peak is also one of the Turner fully engaged in the
sputtering contrail of craglets and bluffs man’ – for those not familiar a hideously most overlooked. n lower crack.
THREE OF
THE BEST
LOWER GRADE ADVENTURES
IN NORTH WALES
tony Howard writes
We had all three been off rock for an eternity. At least it seemed that way. In Mick’s case it was true – five years
must count as an eternity in any climber’s life. He had been grounded since falling from a low level traverse onto
a concealed stone which had splintered his heel. After years of perseverance, physio and exercises, and despite
pessimistic doctors telling him he would never climb again, a course of acupuncture, finally, seemed to do the
trick. Previously hardly able to walk much more than a mile or so without discomfort, he had tramped carefree
with us round the 180 miles of the Annapurna Circuit just before Christmas. He was ready for rock.
Then I let the side down, on our return from Nepal I had a long overdue shoulder operation. Ligaments wearing
on bone had been painfully complaining for too long, so much so, that I hadn’t climbed since the previous au-
tumn. Getting something approaching the full use of my arm back after the op took a further four months, whilst
Mick and Di waited patiently. By mid-May our fingers were itching for the once-familiar rough textured feel of
rock. A forecast promising blue skies, albeit with cold easterly winds for the next few days was all we needed
to tempt us to North Wales.
GROOVED ARÊTE
Grooved Arête on Tryfan was our
objective for the next day. Despite
Tryfan’s lowly height of 915m (a couple
of feet over the magic 3,000) its jagged
skyline, its summit fortified by rock on all
sides and, in particular, its vast rugged
East Face make it an iconic mountain.
I had good memories of it, climbing the
famous Grooved Arête as an instructor at
Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre
on more than one occasion in the 1960s.
Despite its modern grade of Hard V Diff,
I was always amazed at the audacity and
skill of E W Steeple and party who made
the first ascent of this 250m route in 1911
– no nuts and cams then for protection
as they balanced in nailed boots up its
exposed grooves and arêtes. Showell
Styles, another great pioneer of British
climbing, writing in Classic Rock about
his first meeting with Steeple, described
him as ‘a small insignificant stranger,
6 Tony Howard
following the sixth
pitch of the uber
classic nine-pitch
Grooved Arête (HVD
4a). Photo: Di Taylor
a bit oF an old-
Fashioned struggle
– even more so now
it has been polished
by almost a century
oF boots
little ledge, we suddenly realised it was THE MOELWYNS to do them in one). It’s essentially a wall,
cold, really cold, far too cold for May The White Streak/Honeysuckle Corner in easing to a slab. At first glance there are
with the icy east wind whipping up the the Moelwyns was the objective on our neither holds nor runners to be seen, but
face. The groove ahead, initially over- final day, a climb that Di and I had good tiptoeing up on the myriad pockets, pro-
hanging was, as a result, harder than it memories of, but which Mick had never tection placements appear in all shapes
should have been, giving the route a real done. Situated on the easily accessible and sizes. It’s too good to stop at halfway
feel of mountain commitment. There Craig yr Wrysgan, it’s not long, only 50m – head for the top of the slab and the full
was no shelter at the next belay either, of Hard Severe, but you couldn’t find orgasmic experience.
nor on the final wall, beyond which we two more contrasting or better pitches. In contrast to the delicate delights of
scurried for the protection of the sun- The first is my favourite (actually it’s the pitch below, the second pitch starts
warmed boulders on the west side of described in the guide as two pitches but brutally, rising abruptly and vertically from
the nearby summit. Exhilarating stuff! they are so good it seems a shame not the safe comfort of the belay. A powerful
heave gets you onto it. Some steep bridg-
ing and good runners then enable you to
move boldly up into the groove ahead,
after which all is fun to the summit. As we
topped-out, a steam train far below on the
narrow gauge Ffestiniog Railway hooted
as if to congratulate us but the cold
wind which carried the greeting up the
mountain had found us again. We escaped
from its buffeting blast by hurrying like
Hobbits down a tunnel worthy of
Tolkien’s Mines of Moria carved steeply
through the rock by Welsh slate miners;
an unusual end to an unusual climb.
GUIDEBOOK CHECKING
Later, we checked out the routes in our
guidebooks. Apart from an earlier glimpse
to verify the start of Grooved Arête, we
had done the climbs from memory. We
were not too surprised to discover that
Creag Dhu Wall is variously described
as ‘an all-time classic’, ‘one of the best
climbs of its grade at Tremadog’ and
‘one of the finest Welsh Severes’ though
it’s graded HS 4b. Grooved Arête is graded
HVD 4a, and acclaimed as ‘one of the
finest routes of its standard in Wales’ and
The White Streak/Honeysuckle Corner at
HS 4b, is reputedly ‘the best climb of its
grade in the Moelwyns’. Both Creag Dubh
Wall and The White Streak/Honeysuckle
Corner are listed online as amongst the
50 best Hard Severes in the UK.
Guidebooks
Great British Rock Climbs and Classic Rock
include Creag Dhu Wall and Grooved Arête.
Both North Wales Climbs and North
Wales Classics include all three routes
The climbs are also in the relevant
Climbers’ Club definitive guidebooks to
Wales: Tremadog, Ogwen and Meirionnydd.
Tony Howard climbing the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (HS 4b) on Craig y Castell at Tremadog. Photo: Tony Howard Collection
NOV–DEC 2020
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Saint-Cézaire
an oFF-the-grid
French wonderland By Keith sharples
RIVER SIAGNOLE CRAGS being scattered about a tree-lined, steep- Sector north (En Bis)
sided valley overlooking a small river. Reached after a 15 minute easy walk-in,
SectorS South, north (En Haut)
The situation is not only idyllic it’s climbing on this sector is very reminiscent
and north (En Bis) especially accommodating for varying to that in Chee Dale in the Peak District;
Located either side of the River Siagnole, ambient conditions as locations can be steep, technical and fingery on compact
all three crags are accessed from the car varied depending on requirements for rock with the odd overhang thrown in for
parking at the road bridge over the River sun or shade. The minor inconvenience good measure. As well as an excellent sel-
Siagne. Between them, these sectors are of a river crossing and a bit of bush- ection of harder routes in the F7s and F8s
home to 70-odd routes; many giving whacking being the only impediment North En Bis also has a number of attra-
three-star climbing. The situation is to going to all three crags in a day if ctive easier slabby climbs; these on the far
remarkably Chee Dale-esque, the crags you were so inclined. left of the crag; let’s start with these. 6
Sector South
A south-facing crag, liberally covered in
tufas and long routes, Sector South is
generally best visited in spring/autumn
but even then it’ll be hot if it’s sunny. It
can, with some difficulty, be approached in
30 minutes or so by following a circuitous
(to avoid the house at the start) and over-
grown path on the right bank of the River
Siagnole. It seems easier, however, and
quicker, to follow the approach to the
North Sectors and then find a convenient
place to cross the river – à la Chee Dale.
Split naturally into three areas, you
arrive at the crag at a short overhanging
wall above a recess (not quite a cave)
just left of centre of the crag, the routes
there pack quite a punch; unsurprising
given their brevity. Left of there, half a
dozen routes tackle the obvious impres-
sive overhanging wall above. Despite
their accommodating starts up a heavily
pocketed lower wall – themselves giving
good pitches around mid F6s – they all
rear up considerably for the upper two-
thirds of their length. Grades vary from
F6c+ to F7b+ and all of these routes are
three-star pitches.
Expect to be pumped to bits by the time
you reach the lower-offs after the long,
pumpy and technical pitches. Few of the
routes there are named, however, the
penultimate climb on this wall identified as
number 11 in the guide and is ‘only’ F7b RIVER SIAGNE CRAGS farther right but clearly aren’t the quality The stunning Le Bal des
but the capping roof on top of the technical Sector eDF anD KalymnoS of their neighbours. EDF is a small crag Vampires (F7b+) at Sector
mid-section vertical wall means it feels Both these sectors are easily accessible with something of an outside gymnasi- EDF with Steve McClure
more like F7b+, a thoroughly quality from a small road a couple of hundred um feel but well worth seeking out for a climbing. Photo: Keith
route which is nigh-on 35m in length. metres from the road bridge back along pumpfest in upside down land. Sharples
This whole wall has exquisite orange- the D105 towards Grasse. Park on the
tinted quality limestone complete with corner or to the side of the locked gate Sector Kalymnos
the tufas; it’s a seventh grade paradise. about 200m up the road. About five minutes’ walk beyond EDF is a
Left again, and gained by a particular- large house on the right of the track. Just
ly humourless, fierce little F6b+ pitch, a Sector eDF beyond there head uphill (almost behind
clutch of high F7s and low F8s tackle the Immediately beyond the gate, and directly the house) then back left (northwards) to
even more impressive headwall. La Pre- above the track, are the overhanging gain the crag. Given its name, unsurpris-
mier voie de Titi (F8a) takes the best line walls of EDF. There are four easier routes ingly this crag is dominated by a large
of the bunch and kept Steve engrossed on the left (F5 - 7a), the best of which is central overhang which is liberally
for some time. Again, the quality, like the a nicely pocketed, but un-named, F6b+. festooned with tufas. The walls to either
angle, is high. Returning back, and going The rest of the lines are all in the mid/ side are a little less Kalymnos and a tad
right, from the arrival point at the crag high F7s and low F8s. Whilst the bulging more conventional – just.
the walls there are less well-travelled, wall left of the obvious corner provides Climbs in the sixth grade are in short
somewhat shorter and merely vertical. three three-star routes, an F7b, a F7c and supply, there are two, in fact, and one
Mostly the routes are low to mid F7s and an F8b direct finish. Pride of place goes of them is undergraded. That said, Fidjy,
are techie wall climbs. As seems inevita- to the impressive bulge-cum-overhang- c mon Amie (F6c), is an absolute stormer
ble, they are no less pumpy. The routes ing wall on the right, Le Bal des Vampires – well worth the trip alone. Taking a chall-
are good although not quite the quality (F7b+) and Twist Again (F7c+) take direct enging line up to and then up the hanging
of those out to the left; sadly, it seems lines up this impressive feature and tufa system immediately right of the central
they can be a little dirty from winter are covered in good holds and quality roof, it’s full of interesting 3D climbing.
run-off too. moves. A couple of F8as finish off the list The other F6c, Quelle Aventure, is on 6
OTHER CRAGS
As well as Sector Les Malines and
Village, Sector Le Discret is the major
outlier.
Sector Le Discret
Without a doubt, Le Discret is a special
crag, probably, in fact, the best that
Saint-Cézaire has to offer. “There is a
special feeling when after a walk-in, you
turn a corner and the crag rears over you
and you think ‘Oh yes!! This looks amaz-
ing’ ” is what Steve McClure said about Working rightwards the central area 8 Keith Sharples on the
Le Discret and if Steve likes it then you doesn’t seem quite so popular, not so, FACT FILE initial tufa section of Quella
know it’s special. Located a 15-minute however, the impressive and unbroken Adventure (F7a/+), Sector
drive to the north and a some 35-minute wall on the right of the crag which rears Fly/Stay Kalymnos. Photo: Steve
or so walk-in, Le Discret is off-the-grid up into a continuous sheet of quality Nice Airport is extremely McClure
even for Saint-Cézaire but very much a overhanging stone taken, with few convenient and accommodation
‘must-visit’ crag. exceptions, by a collection of stunning via Air BnB, etc is plentiful and 4 Steve McClure high on
Facing southwest, Le Discret gets F8s which extend up to 40m in length. reasonably priced. Le Diable Est Dans Les Detail
morning shade and sun from early Several routes stand out there, the eas- (F8a+) at Sector Le Discret.
afternoon. When arriving from the trail iest of which is Action Discrete (F7a+/b Time to Visit His on-sighting quest was
above, you see the full crag in profile or F7c); this starts up a (merely vertical) Spring or autumn are the best thwarted by wet finishing
as you approach and boy, is it impres- flake. Finish at the top of this for F7a+/b times to visit. holds after approximately
sive. Basically, Le Discret is one long or continue up an improbably overhang- 35m of hard climbing.
concave/overhanging wall rising above ing section above to a lower-off just level Restrictions Photo: Keith Sharples
its downward sloping base. Ever so with the capping roof for the full (value) Rare nesting bats have forced the
slightly slabby at the base (in parts) the F7c. Quality is excellent but it’s no closure of Sector Le Roi du Sept
wall rises up such that the top – some pushover. Next up is Inch of Dust which and the bolts have been removed.
35/40m or so above its sloping base – is is F7c+ or F8a depending on which low- This restriction is also believed to
very definitely overhanging. The typically er-off you use. apply to the adjacent Sector Jean
bullet-hard rock has an orange tint Immediately right is one of the very Marc Genevois. The former espe-
which picks up a glorious inviting glow best on the whole crags, Hilti Base Jump cially is a considerable loss
in evening sunlight. F8a or F8a+ again depending on which as the walls there were liberally
The easiest routes are on the far lower-off you use. Steve did the full F8a+ covered with excellent grade F7s.
left-hand side of the crags, conveniently, version and was very enthusiastic about Whilst climbing is also techni-
they’re lined up next to each other. Cha- it – not least pulling over the finishing cally ‘banned’ at Sector EDF it is
peau Pointu (F6b+) is the easiest and one capping roof. He also got involved with tolerated providing that climbers
of the better lines, despite looking some- Le Diable Est Dans Les Details (F8a+) just visit in small numbers, park care-
what improbable at the grade, holds left of there. Taking an amazing lower fully and are sympathetic to local
keep on appearing just when you want wall and a very striking mid-height giant residents.
them and it climbs really well. Moody tufa, Steve on-sighted to the very final
(F6c), on the left, is also good and builds section only to discover a few crucial wet Guidebook/Info
steadily to a ‘sting in the tail’ finish. C’est holds. We only had one day there at Le Saint-Cézaire is covered in the
Dement (F6c+) just right of this is the best Discret but it made a big impression: 2010 (somewhat funky) local
of the bunch though and has some ace “This place is way off the beaten track, no guidebook, L’Escalade dans les
moves up/between the various short polish whatsoever. A real treat and not Alpes-Maritimes. Further details
tufas en route to yet another sting in the likely to get busy either. On-sights of some are on the UKC Database where
tail finish close to Moody. The extensions of the very best F8a and F8a+ routes I’ve Mike Owen is the moderator.
above these routes are all in the F8s. ever done,” was Steve’s view. n
Route names are rarely poetic. Hubble, Silence, La Rambla… Caroline Ciavaldini high on Une Jolie Fleur
Names usually make the routes real persons, with a character. dans une Peau de Vache (F8b) on the
impressive 300m wall of La Paroi du Duc.
Une Jolie Fleur dans une Peau de Vache is a route from ‘Graou’, Bruno The wall is a mix of overhanging wall
climbing with beautiful tufas and diagonal
Clement, an infamous French bolter of the Verdon. I didn’t get to ask slabby ledges. Communication between
him why such a long and French name. But it’s definitely that name the climber and belayer is sometimes
difficult, especially when you lose sight
that stopped me when I was reading through the Verdon guide. of each other and can only hear the roar
of the Verdon hundreds of metres below.
NORTHCOTT
MOUTH
NORTH DEVON BOULDERING
BY THE SEA Words and Photographs by James Mann
‘There is little at Bude to gladden the heart of the rock climber, indeed it would
not be easy for any ordinary member of the Club to find words sufficiently
abusive. The cliffs are friable, treacherous and end at their summits in yards
of bare soil. Nevertheless, difficult as it has been to sing the songs of Zion in
a strange land, oases of happiness have been discovered’.
These are the words of EM Hazleton, a teacher and a rock-climber evacuated to Bude during the
Second World War. He was one of the first to climb on the Culm Coast and made a number of first
ascents in the area during his enforced stay. Had he opened his eyes to the bouldering potential
to the north, he may have become Britain’s very own John Gill.
OVERVIEW
Situated just over a mile north of the Suddenly, walls, slabs and roofs too problems succumb to more than one
busy seaside town of Bude, Northcott short to yield full scale routes, gave sequence, so laterally thinking climbers
Mouth is one of the most interesting superb technical challenges on which to will be rewarded. Beyond this, strong
and diverse bouldering areas on the test the newfound powers of Devon and fingers, deft footwork and the ability to
Culm Coast, offering enjoyable climbing Cornwall’s first climbing wall generation. hold some truly smooth slopers will pay
throughout the grade range. Northcott Most of the bouldering is tidal and is dividends. A towel will prove very useful
is best visited throughout the spring and accessible for around four hours either for cleaning shoes and drying holds.
summer months, when calm seas rule side of low tide. Although the beach is For a first-time visitor, the best access
and lazy, sunny days stretch into golden west-facing, the climbing almost all fac- is down the road from the large car park
sunsets before ending slowly with a final es due north or south though this gives at Northcott Mouth and then to work
green, flash glow. the advantage of sun and shade when your way southwards along the beach,
Whilst much of the initial route needed. That said, problems facing north picking off problems as you go. It is also
climbing development took place during can remain greasy until the sun has had possible to walk along the cliff top and
the 80s and early 90s, it was in the early a chance to warm away the damp. The approach via a path at the southern end
2000s that Simon Young got the bit level of sand on the beach affects the of the beach known locally as ‘Earth-
between his teeth and began to look at nature of many problems, increasing and quake’.
the place with fresh eyes and a boulder- decreasing heights and altering starting Northcott Mouth provides a tremen-
ing mentality. Freshly trained from the holds. dous setting for a fantastic day’s
6 Will Hornby on The Pinch climbing wall at Shebbear College and Landings too, vary between flat, soft climbing on the beach with tranquil
(Font 7a) and widely regarded then his original Barn climbing wall at sand and exposed boulders, requiring surroundings, uncrowded golden sands
as one of the best problems of Bude, Young had a look around and took judgement in terms of pads and spotting and quality problems; bucket and spade
the grade on the Culm Coast. stock of what he had on his doorstep. on some of the taller offerings. Many bouldering at its best. 6
Usually completed from left-to-right, NORTH FACING SLAB THE PINCH AREA
this excellent problem rewards Left Arête (Font 5+) and Crack (Font 4+) The Pinch (Font 7a) is a superb problem,
precise footwork and steel forearms. – just south of Name Zawn is an one of the best of the grade on the Culm
Another one to look at is the highball isolated boulder known as North Coast. From the lowest slot with the left
offering of the Undercut Problem Facing Slab. Left Arête is climbed on and an obvious pinch with the right, slap
(Font 6c) that bisects the traverse sharp holds to a straightforward for the smooth, sea-worn sloper on the
from just right of the start of that top-out. Crack is to be found on the lip; truly the sound of one hand clapping. Eyes on the prize. Ruby Petch
problem via an obvious undercut slab itself where pleasant climbing making her way across the
to an easier finish. Also check out on the central cracked slab leads to BLACK CAVE AREA Red Quinne Cave Traverse
Nameless Arête (Font 6b) that takes the top. The slab to the left, without Red Quinne (Font 7c) – a superb Simon (Font 7a+), a quality right to
a high sharp arête on the south side recourse to the crack, is the worthwhile Young problem which crosses the left journey along the lip of
of the zawn. eliminate of Blinkers 1 (Font 6a). horizontal roof of Black Cave on toe 6 Black Cave.
hooks and undercuts to an awkward pull sections can be less than perfect and the A FINAL THOUGHT Mikey Cleverdon hard
around the lip. The cave, unfortunately, problems are high so dropping off from Whilst Hazleton didn’t embrace the boulder- at work on Red Quinne
has a tendency to seep. A good problem to obvious finishing holds may be prefera- ing on the Culm, he would doubtless have (Font 7c), a brilliant problem
seek out in a prolonged dry period. Want ble to topping out. There are a number partaken in the enjoyment of the myriad which crosses the horizontal
something a touch harder? Then look no of up problems in the 5s and 6s, the best problems in the area. He certainly roof of Black Cave on toe
further than Captain Crush (Font 7c+), the of these is Porthole (Font 6a), though understood the feeling of being there: hooks and undercuts to an
left line through the roof starting as for Red Porthole Left-Hand Start (Font 6b) that awkward pull around the lip.
‘Walking north along the sand as the
Quinne, then veering left to via a large comes in from the left and heads up right
obvious sloper on the lip and climbed to the porthole is a worthy neighbour. sun lights the cliffs before one, their
on a visit south from Mike Adams. For Going crossways along the base of the colours are superb. On clear evenings
sideways action fans Red Quinne Cave face gives both high and low traverses as the sun dips his final green ‘flash’
Traverse (Font 7a+) is a quality right-to- at Font 6a and Font 6c respectively. lasts into a momentary glow’. n
left traverse of the lip of the cave.
TTPP
Physical isn’t a bigger
word than the others By mark reeves
Slow, silent & accurate footwork Using handhold Precise and confident footwork
Reading easy routes on the move Route reading from ground Route reading on on-sights
tactical Tactical (clipping from rest) Resting between max efforts Sequence memory on redpoints
Warming up
Controlled aggression
Psychological Relaxing and recovery
Using imagery
Fall training
ANAEROBIC PHASE
Whether it is redpointing or on-sighting
a demanding route, you are going to
need to give it your all whilst racing
against the rising tide of the pump.
To climb routes at your limit, you
really need to at least start relaxed and
focus on all those good techniques you
have been working on. Making every
foothold count with precise footwork
and thinking ‘drive up with my feet
where possible’.
It is also a time when you can start
to test on-sighting to near your limit,
especially indoors where there is zero
commitment as you can lower off
anywhere. Remember though we are
trying to leave everything on the wall,
you are not off until you are off.
ACTIVE INSULATION
by bruce goodlad
Mike Austin testing active insulation for this review whilst climbing along
the exposed West Ridge of the Dent de Tsalion (3,589m), Switzerland.
Photo: Bruce Goodlad
When we consider where active insulation may fit into your layering I would not consider any of these jackets reviewed as a belay jacket
system, it would be a light stretchy replacement for a more traditional or full-on winter insulation. You need to look for something thicker for
mid-layer fleece. While we all have fleece and wear it a lot, I think the only that but that’s for another day.
fleece I wear into the mountains now is a thin Patagonia R1 style garment We will get more into the fabrics which each garment uses in
that is effectively a second base layer with a thin hood I can wear under the review but a few key criteria we were looking for were: comfort,
a hat or a helmet. While fleece is great for many things, when it gets wet freedom of movement, insulation, breathability, hood and pockets.
from sweat it takes time to dry and it is generally bulkier in a pack and When considering warmth as a rule of thumb the more grams per
doesn’t give the warmth to weight rations that these modern fabrics have. square metre of insulating fabric the warmer the garment will be. 6
Alpkit Katabatic
(Men and women’s available) RRP: £150 Weight: 420g
The Katabatic uses Primaloft Gold Active at 60g/m2 with a robust
face fabric that feels like it would survive anything the mountain
can throw at you. The cut on the jacket is quite trim, which is great
when using a harness and the articulation built into the arms
combined with the stretch fabric allows for unlimited freedom
of movement. The face fabric is the most robust feeling of any
of the garments featured so far and I would have no qualms
about using this as an outer layer when mixed climbing.
There are two handwarmer pockets that are covered by a
harness, these are lined with a micro fleece for a cosy feel, the
same fleece is used round the chin area for a really comfortable
feel. There is a chest pocket that will take a phone and the jacket
can fold into one of the handwarmer pockets. The hood has a nice
feel to it and is cosy though the only issue I have with it is that it
is too small to fit over an helmet and too bulky to really fit under
one, so while it is great without I would have liked it a bit bigger.
I really liked the Katabatic, it’s a bit heavier than the other
garments featured so far but feels robust and at a great price point.
The adjustable hood fits nicely over a helmet and is adjusted with a
drawcord. The hem is easily adjusted and the wrists are sealed with low
profile elastic. There is a good selection of pockets with handwarmer pockets
under a harness, a large external chest pocket and an internal zipper
pocket that the jacket can be folded into then clipped onto a harness.
The First Light Stretch is the heaviest jacket in the review but don’t let
that put you off, the robust face fabric makes it perfect for using as a soft
shell and it is breathable enough to use when working hard then it is a
great mid-layer on cold days. This is a jacket that will last and last.
The Climbing Bible offers a deep dive as a physiotherapist and a coach both
into the continually evolving world of were competition climbers on the
technical, physical and mental train- Norwegian national team and national
ing for rock-climbing as seen through champions before they developed their
the eyes of experienced Norwegian deeper involvement with coaching. In
coaches, Martin Mobraten and Stian short, they both have a lot of experience
Christophersen. The English version, in climbing, competing and coaching
published here in the UK by Verte- and that shows throughout the book.
brate Publishing, follows the original The Climbing Bible concentrates
publication in Norway in 2018. on the technical, physical and mental
There’s a long and distinguished aspects of the sport. Chapter 1 covers
history of writing instructional books technique in detail stressing the need
for climbing. Slowly the emphasis has to maintain balance and conserve
changed, however, and increasingly power whilst covering all the different
texts have concentrated more and more grip positions as well as the foundation
on how to improve as a climber rather techniques including the now essential
than the nuts and bolts of how-to-climb. aspects, even for competition climbers,
Arguably, one of the benchmarks of the of jamming. They also cover how to
‘new’ morphed texts was Performance develop technique. exercise either on the floor or using
Rock Climbing by Dale Goddard and Chapter 2 is another monster and it’s suspension trainers to weight training
Udo Neumann published way back in all about physical training; not surpris- doing basics such as deadlifts, squats
1993. Since then there have been count- ingly, it’s a chapter which many climb- and various presses. There are literally
less more ‘training books’. Overseas ers will read time and time again. Finger hundreds of such exercises but those
authors seem particularly active: Eric strength along with arm and upper body outlined are a great starting point for
Horst’s Training for Climbing, Michael strength as well as core training is cov- anyone trying to avoid climbing related
and Mark Anderson’s The Rock Climber’s ered and a variety of training techniques injuries. The remaining pages of the
Training Manual weighing in heavy from for each are outlined. An interview with chapter discusses injuries. By necessity
the USA. UK authors have added their leading researcher, Eva Lopez, talks it’s a brief look at the more common
blend of wisdom too; Dave MacLeod’s about some of her work into research climbing injuries; a section specifically
9 out of 10 climbers... and Jerry Moffatt’s on finger strength development. Finally, related to younger climbers is especially
Mastermind coming in the last decade. endurance and mobility are also dis- welcome to see.
The Climbing Bible by Mobraten and cussed. The sixth and final chapter, about
Christophersen is the latest ‘training’ Mental training is next up with the training plans, covers the basics such
book to hit the shelves. Training for authors kicking off Chapter 3 with one as training periodisation as well as both
climbing is both a vast and an evolving of Wolfgang Gullich’s famous quotes: short and long term plans and session
subject – not least as climbing itself “The brain is the most important muscle plans. This chapter includes an inter-
continues to evolve now that will be for climbing.” This is an area which is view with Tom Randall in which he dis-
featured in the Olympics. It has becom- overlooked by some climbers. However, cusses his training philosophy and ap-
ing increasingly difficult to shoe-horn even the most rudimentary techniques proach to structured climbing training.
chapters on every single aspect of such as visualisation will be of consider- Tucked away at the end of this chapter
training for climbing into a single book. able help to most climbers. Chapter 4 is and one of the final aspects of the book
So which subjects have Mobraten and devoted to tactics. This is an area which is a golden nugget: the 10 command-
Christophersen addressed in The Climb- isn’t generally covered in self-help train- ments of climbing as seen through the
ing Bible and which have they left aside ing texts so the tips offered will be es- authors’ eyes. On its own it is worth the
and how comprehensive is their text? pecially helpful to younger climbers still cover price of the book starting with
Let’s drill down into these as we review learning their game. Included within the ‘you have to climb a lot to be a good
The Climbing Bible. text is an interesting story from Magnus climber’ right through to ‘preserve the
Off the bat, Mobraten and Chris- Midtbø climbing Neanderthal (F9b) at joy – climbing is all fun and games’. You
tophersen confirm why they wrote The Saint Linya, Spain as well as advice on might be surprised how few of the other
Climbing Bible in their short intro. Firstly, how to prepare for competitions. 10 commandments related to training
that they believe that interest in climb- Yet another famous quote from – but you can discover that when you
ing is greater than ever before and, Gullich starts Chapter 5: “Getting strong read it yourself.
secondly, after 20 years of coaching they is easy. Getting strong without getting Throughout The Climbing Bible
wanted to share their knowledge. Their injured is hard.” Often referred to as Mobraten and Christophersen have
focus is then on the technical, physical ‘strength and conditioning’ many of the imparted an ‘easy-to-read’ feel to the
and mental aspects of the game. Cru- exercises discussed are aimed at devel- text using a ‘chatty’ writing style. It’s an
cially, their objective is to provide ‘prac- oping both stronger and more resilient approach which makes The Climbing
tical tools’ to ‘help children, adolescents bodies. Sometimes called pre-hab, these Bible especially suited to young climbers
and adults stay injury free’ whilst enjoy- exercises aim to strengthen the typically starting out and to parents looking to
ing climbing. Whilst Mobraten trained ignored antagonistic muscles using a gen up on what their kids are getting
as a civil engineer and Christophersen variety of techniques from body weight involved with. Whilst The Climbing Bible
has sufficient detail for established and knowledge to aspiring competition and considerably to the book. Whilst many
advanced climbers looking to develop sport climbers and boulderers; tips and of the action shots are from Norway
their craft it doesn’t overload the reader. tricks for trad climbers don’t figure so and other overseas locations it’s nice
By comparison, Eric Horst’s Training highly. Nutrition information is, sadly, to see that some are of UK climbs; their
for Climbing and the Anderson Brother’s very scant in The Climbing Bible. Many inclusion will undoubtedly strike a
The Rock Climber’s Training Manual both – if not most – of the latest texts cover chord for British readers. One of the few
dive much deeper into the physiolog- nutrition in detail so to see a major errors in the whole book relates to the
ical and scientific aspects of training self-help training guide offering very action photo of Mari Augusta Salvesen
and, as such, give a greater insight into little information on such an important on Master’s Edge, Millstone. The caption
training such that an elite athlete might subject is a little perplexing and disap- wrongly credits her with the first female
wish to read. Whilst both those texts are pointing. Any seriously aspiring climber ascent of that route; that honour was
fully referenced and facilitate a deeper looking to develop their abilities should actually Airlie Anderson’s back in 1994.
understanding The Climbing Bible by be aware off and follow basic nutritional In summary, The Climbing Bible is a
comparison only includes a short bibli- guidelines; unfortunately, they’ll have to well-written, nicely illustrated and well
ography referencing the major texts, as look elsewhere for that info. laid-out training book covering many of
a consequence, The Climbing Bible feels One of the high points of The the essential topics any aspiring young
far less intense as a book. Climbing Bible is the numerous (c.400) climber would need to get to grips; a
Perhaps understandably given their technique and action images which lav- perfect gift for someone.
background, Mobraten and Chris- ishly illustrate the text. Almost without
tophersen, impart more ‘how-to’ exception these are excellent and add Keith Sharples
The winter months were very long and But for the exceptional few, winter in motivation of a small group of
lonely for those left at home. The book the Himalaya presented opportunities for outstanding climbers who were
contains a small selection of colour personal achievements, for nationalistic determined to challenge the high
photographs showing expeditions on all achievements and for new records to mountains during the most brutal
14 peaks. They reflect a strong comrade- be established. Many new names were and unforgiving times. Bernadette
ship. We view a mix of happy, fun times added to the record books of Himalayan has written about a subject which has
and portraits of gaunt, tired, cold faces. climbing. These were opportunities not been visited in such detail before.
Of course, as always, the question which offered everything the few The book records a remarkable period
remains why. Bernadette leaves the hoped for in their climbing lives. in Himalayan climbing and will surely
reader with much to consider. For Winter 8000 is another extraordinary be of much interest to anyone who
most, these endeavours were too book from the pen of Bernadette enjoys reading about the history of
extreme, too expensive with too little McDonald. Bernadette has presented the 14 8,000m mountains.
chance of success. Too many winter a comprehensive and absorbing
expeditions ended in hopeless failure. investigation into the mindset and Noel Dawson
On the 25th January 2018, the French And so comes the moment when the
mountaineer Élisabeth Revol and the two climbers were separated. We jour-
Polish mountaineer Tomasz (Tomek) ney on with Élisabeth while she, and
Mackiewicz set off from Camp IV the reader, wonder what the next hours
towards the top of Nanga Parbat. hold for Tomek. Élisabeth’s powerful
Mountains were their addiction and recollections make upsetting reading at
that day would see them attempt to times. We can only watch as Élisabeth
complete their dream to reach the struggles and as Tomek remains too
summit of this mighty mountain but as high on Nanga Parbat.
on any mountain a second in time can The text reminds us that mountains
destroy ambition and change lives. are dangerous. Today we have such
To Live is such an emotive narrative. an advanced understanding of human
Élisabeth records in quite brutal detail physiology and of mountain medicine.
how excitement and expectation so Detailed weather forecasts and an
swiftly collapsed into desperation and abundance of electronic equipment
despair. The two climbers reached the offer much important information to the
summit of their special mountain but climber and even helicopters are now
the descent became the most terrifying able to offer some assistance in rescues.
battle for survival. This all depends though on decisions
Élisabeth’s description totally captures made in extreme environments. Danger
the reader as we share the pain of the remains a part of the overall experience. the hours of anguish that Élisabeth must
descent as it decays into so many diffic- As well as the story of the rescue, the have revisited writing this book. We can
ulties. Such a retreat was not part of their book also carries eight pages of colour only wonder about the ‘what ifs’ that
careful plan. How often is perspective photographs, plans of Nanga Parbat must have plagued her writing days.
lost on the mountain? The best plans routes and of the rescue, more writings The reader is always aware that they
deteriorate into ‘mountain decisions’ about Élisabeth, Tomek and two of are reading about very sad times.
clouded by altitude and fatigue which can the rescuers, Adam Bielecki and Denis To Live tells such a harrowing
lead to a lack of clarity and good sense. Urubko, and information about how story. The reader becomes lost on the
Ambition drags the climber to the summit. crowdfunding supported the rescue. The mountain with Élisabeth and you in-
Too often too little is left to descend. book, originally published in French, has evitably feel just a little of her pain and
As the narrative develops and the been translated by the British climber frustration and anger. Could Élisabeth
descent continues Élisabeth offers the and climbing journalist, Natalie Berry. return to the mountains? Élisabeth went
reader many reflections in the text look- To Live is an incredibly captivating to horrible places on Nanga Parbat.
ing back on the retreat months later. read. It tells of terrible times but perhaps You feel, having read this compelling
These are written using a different font it also represents fragments of healing book, that Nanga Parbat has become a
and explain some of the decisions made and some answers to complex and deep climbing scar that Élisabeth will
during challenging days and how and lingering questions. The book certainly always carry. The pain remains as do
why she feels they were made. Élisabeth recognises and remembers all those the mountains.
also puts into context how others were who, in so many ways, helped Élisabeth
helping while she was on the mountain. on the mountain. We can only imagine Noel Dawson
world of George Smith full details on how to nominate using the link below.
TO S E E H O W YO U C A N H E L P V I S IT
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THE MILE END CLIMBING WALLS
CLIMBING WALL
Haverfield Road, Bow, London, E3 5BE
Tel: 0208 981 5066 • Fax: 0208 983 0204
www.rockonclimbing.co.uk
ÉLISABETH REVOL
French climber Élisabeth Revol is one of the most revered climbers living
today. Known for her expeditions in the Karakoram and the Himalaya,
she is the first woman to summit the 8,126-metre Nanga Parbat in winter.
Born in the Drôme area of France, her
parents introduced her to climbing as
a teenager in the Écrins massif. Having
caught the climbing bug, she honed
her skills as a member of the FFCAM
(Fédération Française des Clubs Alpins
et de Montagne) while simultaneously
working as a PE teacher. Her first
expedition to Nepal in 2007 quickly
progressed to a larger trip in 2008 with
Antoine Girard. However, when Antione
fell ill Élisabeth persevered, going on to
link three Himalayan mountains – Broad
Peak, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II
– in a sixteen-day solo ascent, with no
supplementary oxygen. Élisabeth’s next
expedition to Annapurna in 2009 was
struck by tragedy when her climbing
partner, Martin Minarik, was killed
during a perilous descent. Tragedy struck once again on this ex- But through all of this, climbing
After several years away, Élisabeth’s pedition. After reaching the summit from remained Élisabeth’s passion. On 23
return to the mountains in 2013 saw the the Diamer side, Tomasz began strug- May 2019, she reached the summit of
formation of the defining relationship of gling to see or speak, having developed Everest and went on to climb Lhotse
her climbing career. She joined Polish severe frostbite and snow blindness. the following day.
climber Tomasz Mackiewicz to attempt Managing to move him to relative safety If her climbing achievements weren’t
a winter ascent of the ‘Killer Mountain’, in front of a crevasse, Élisabeth had to enough, Élisabeth has also competed
Nanga Parbat. Although she had previously withstand three nights in unplanned biv- in the 2012 Adventure Racing World
attempted this with Italian climber ouacs while waiting for rescue. Enduring Championships in France, which saw
Daniele Nardi in 2013, it was with Tomasz severe frostbite, the fear for Tomasz’s her using her navigational, trekking,
that her fixation with this elusive peak life and even hallucinations, Élisabeth mountain biking, paddling and climbing
took form. After their 2015 attempt was eventually descended enough for Denis skills. All of this is indicative of someone
halted by bad weather just 300 metres Urubko and Adam Bielecki to come to with adventure in the very fibres of their
below the summit, the pair went on to her aid from their nearby expedition on being – those who will risk everything
tackle the formidable peak twice more. K2. Upon reaching her they made the to, as Élisabeth says, ‘challenge my
By the time they geared up for another heart-breaking decision not to attempt psyche, my mindset and my motivation’.
attempt in the winter of 2017–2018, to rescue Tomasz. Élisabeth’s grief com- Élisabeth Revol is one of our greatest
Tomasz had attempted to summit Nanga pelled her to document her experiences adventurers, and she doesn’t show
Parbat seven times, and Élisabeth four. in her first book, To Live. any sign of stopping soon.
8 Élisabeth Revol on
the traverse between the
Diama glacier and the glacier
between Camp 3 and Camp
4 on 24 January 2018 at 7,200
metres. Photo: Élisabeth Revol
TONGS YA BASS
– BERMUDA DWS
Grant Farquhar recounts the trials and tribulations
when attempting a new deep water solo route in
Bermuda.
ROCK SHOES
– GEAR REVIEW
A look at the latest rock shoes – ready for you to
get them worn in for 2021.
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SUSTAINABLE PERFORMANCE
CIRRU S AL PI N E
From ch illy a lp in e s t a rts to b re e z y b e l a ys, th e C i rr us Al pi ne i s m ade for
ever-c h a n g in g c o n d it i o n s. C o m b i n i n g re c yc l e d P e rtex ® Quantum w i th
recycl e d s y n t h e t ic in su l a ti o n - i t i s l i g h tw e i g h t, q ui ck -dry i ng and w arm .
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