What a scarf does for you

Can clever accessorising really help your career? And how can you be sure your neckwear is sending the
right message?

For starters, a scarf draws attention to your face.

A scarf is not just a piece of cloth that women wear around the neck or over the shoulders for warmth. 

it’s one of the most versatile clothing accessories, used for centuries across a variety of cultures, for a
range of purposes.

“Research does show that women look at the face of people they are interacting with, but men don’t
much,” said Dr Carolyn Mair, reader in psychology at London College of Fashion. “A scarf would help
draw men’s attention to the face, and that way you get better communication.”

A vivid accessory also brightens up the sombre clothes often worn in offices. “A scarf lightens the outfit
and takes off the severity,” Mair said. Whether we like it or not, being seen as attractive brings
advantages, said Mair. “We make our decisions on whether we like someone in less than a minute. So if
we can draw attention to something bright about the face which lifts the features… then the person
interacting with us will perceive us as more attractive and pay more attention to what we say.”  

Attractive people are also — rightly or wrongly — viewed as being more honest, she said.

Unravelling the dress code

Every style choice sends a message. That’s obvious when you consider a well-known person who, say,
wears a pair of glasses that have become his signature or the executive who is known for bow ties.

“One piece of clothing equals one word in a sentence,” said Mirella Zanatta, associate director of
programs at brand consulting company Corporate Class Inc in Toronto, Ontario. “Wearing the right scarf
in the right way will make you appear to be a refined person who has put thought into your outfit,” said
Zanatta, who is also president of the Canadian chapter of the Association of Image Consultants
International.

Surprisingly, there is also a connection between clothing and performance, said Mair. “When you
believe a garment has some attribute — for instance it belonged to someone you admire — it can
increase your cognitive abilities,” she said. A 2012 study, known as the lab coats study, found that
“people who believed a coat they were wearing belonged to a doctor performed better in attention
tests than when they believed they were wearing a (house) painter’s coat.”

For women on tight budgets, a luxury-brand scarf can be a visible, but less expensive way to signal their
fashionable aspirations.

Stick to patterns familiar to that label to ensure that they are easily recognisable, said Zanatta. “If you
see someone wearing a Hermes scarf, the implication is that they are successful because they wouldn’t
be able to buy it otherwise,” she said.

Dos and don’ts

Zanatta, who owns about 50 scarves, advises having an expert or perhaps an honest friend help you
choose hues that complement your skin tone.

“The right colour will make you look healthy, well rested and vibrant,” she said.

“If you have a fine bone structure… go for a fine fabric,” Zanatta said. Natural fabrics such as silk,
cashmere and linen are best. “They are going to look better, they drape better and they will wear
better.”

Match your style to your workplace and your career level. “Wearing a big, draped scarf sends a message
that you’re comfortable, approachable and warm,” she said, adding that style works well in relaxed
work environments, such as information technology.
No, I'm not suggesting you go full Snowden. Though it may not get as much press, hacking can actually
be a positive when used as a means to self-optimization. Why be a hacker? Often used in relation to
computer programmers, hackers creatively overcome limitations by creating work-arounds and
constantly pushing the boundaries of what's possible. In short, hacking is about excellence -- it's clever,
intentional, and playful. So what better place to apply the hacker ethic than to your image? 

One of the best things about hacking is its emphasis on being scrappy -- not fancy. As with most key
elements of a successful image, the real differentiators are in the small details, not the debt-inducing
handbags. Here are 5 affordable, easy, hoodie-free hacks everyone can use for an instant image-boost: 

1. Put on a scarf: No matter the season, no matter the occasion, scarves are the fastest way to make
whatever you're wearing into "an outfit." They add sophistication and panache, while also serving a
practical purpose (don't discount scarves in the summer -- air conditioning can be brutal in offices and
restaurants!). 

2. Shine your shoes: For only $5 (or free, if you find working over your footwear therapeutic), you can
literally add a dollop of polish to your facade. Shoe shines makes everything your wearing appear
refreshed -- just via proximity. Plus, scuffed, dull looking shoes instantly detract from even the most
pulled-together ensemble.

3. Apply a little gloss:  A hint of shine or a touch of color on your lips brightens your appearance and lifts
your entire image, regardless of how tired or unattractive you may feel at the moment. it's cheap, quick,
and easy to take with you wherever you go. Yes, this one is catered primarily toward the women --
though men do well with well-moisturized lips, too.

4. Wear a signature scent: We are multi-sensory creatures, and image perception doesn't begin and end
with our eyes. Scent is our strongest sense, and it's most closely linked with memory -- which means
creating a lasting impression is integrally tied to the way you smell. Don't overpower your audience, but
find a subtle scent that works with your body chemistry and make that a key part of how you self-
present everyday.

5. Smile: Sound too easy? Maybe, but that doesn't mean it isn't powerful. Next time you aren't feeling
confident about your body or the day's outfit, practice a little "fake it til you make it" and slap on a big
grin.  I promise that's what everyone will react to and remember, far more than the stain on
your blouse. 
Stylewatch: The Silk Scarf
There’s a reason why the silk scarf—the most old-school accessory of them all—has never gone out of
style. It instantly elevates any ensemble while harking back to a beautiful history of craftsmanship and
luxury. The trend is anything but “new.” In looking at the history of scarves in the 19th and 20th
centuries, it’s clear that the allure and power of scarves has always existed – and persists. The scarf is
the most simple form of adornment: a single piece of cloth.

The silk scarf one of the most versatile clothing accessories, used for centuries across a variety of
cultures, for a range of purposes. There are an infinite number of ways wear them, which you can
update with every season or even every wear.

So make the investment and update your look with a simple silk scarf.

A classic silk scarf can add polish or a dose of cool to any look—but it’s all in the styling and the
quality. At ASSA we do a whole lot of searching to find that unique piece for you and our scarves are
some of the most unique around!

I think a perfect-color scarf really brings out your whole skin tone, lip color, and everything else. Jessica
Jung

Put on a sweater and really great sneakers with a big scarf, and you'll look so stylish. For me, they are an
everyday essential. Meghan Markle

In terms of fashion, I love adding a fun scarf to whatever I'm wearing - it's a great way to dress up a plain
outfit! Bridgit Mendler
Money doesn't buy elegance. You can take an inexpensive sheath, add a pretty scarf, gray shoes, and a
wonderful bag, and it will always be elegant. Carolina Herrera

I think a scarf is the most versatile item. On a plane, it's good to wrap around when you're cold or rest
your head on it. I love scarves. Martha Hunt
Throwing on a black dress with black tights, cute booties, a great coat and throw a scarf over it. I think
simple accessories and, if you want to make a pop, a great red lip. Meghan Markle
I would wear a top that is not very tight. I would probably wear a scarf, which I find one of the best
pieces of clothing there is. Saskia de Brauw
Unveiling the history of the headscarf
A headscarf is often associated today with the head coverings worn by Muslim women. But an exhibition
at Vienna's Weltmuseum shows the many — and sometimes contradictory — meanings the headscarf
has embodied over time.

She wraps herself in a shawl!

By Sadaf Jabeen

 Tue, 12, 16

Wearing a sophisticated, trendy shawl is the best way to welcome winter. It’s time to update your
wardrobe with this year’s festive shawls...

wardrobe

Wearing a sophisticated, trendy shawl is the best way to welcome winter. It’s time to update your
wardrobe with this year’s festive shawls...

From the Regency era to the end of the 1860s, there was no fashion accessory as versatile and
ubiquitous as the shawl. Available in all weights of fabrics, including silk, lace, muslin, cashmere wool,
and priced for all budgets, shawls graced the shoulders of women in every strata of society. They were
no less well-represented in art and literature of the day. Shawls were referenced in the novels of such
literary luminaries as Elizabeth Gaskell and William Makepeace Thackeray. They were also featured in
countless portrait paintings, draping the figures of fashionable 19th century ladies of every age.
The word shawl, derives its origin from the Persian ‘shal’. The word shawl is derived from Sanskrit and
some of the first shawls were created in the Kashmir region of India.  Historians believe India is the true
home of the decorative shawl, where finely spun mantles were created. Shawls were popular amongst
Indians in variety of forms since ancient times. The history of shawl weaving is closely linked to the
history of woollen textiles in India. Kashmir valley of India is known for weaving shawls from Pashmina

wool.

Traditionally, shawls are produced by two techniques, loom woven or kani shawls and the needle
embroidered or sozni shawls. The shawls are embroidered in floral motifs, various designs available
range from Neemdoor, Doordaar, Paladaar, Baildaar, Jaalis and Jammas, with the help of needle.
Whereas kani shawls are woven on looms with the help of kanis, that are small eyeless bobbins used
instead of the shuttle.

Women today enjoy beautiful Pashminas, and luxurious, glamorous shawls in multi-coloured hues.

Shawls in vogue:

Pashmina shawls: Starting with Pashmina which is as delicate and soft as it is warm. A luxurious
Pashmina shawl, wrap, or scarf is the perfect fashion accessory for any season, event or occasion!
Pashmina is known for its softness. Pashmina yarn is spun from the hair of the ibex found at 14,000 ft
above the sea level, pure Pashmina is expensive but mixed Pashmina with wool is less expensive. The
amount of silk mixed with wool in this kind of shawl differs and so does the quality. This luxurious shawl
tops over the list when it comes to manifesting a sophisticated style.
Cashmere shawls: Beautiful cashmere shawls are always distinguished by their delicate and trendy
designs. Women can never forget to have a cashmere shawl in their wardrobe. These shawls are mostly
suitable for formal occasions. Cashmere is a different kind of superior quality wool and is not to be
linked to Pashmina. Pashmina is mostly hand woven while cashmere can be machine spun and woven.

Jamawar shawls: Jamawar fabric always remains the most demanding fabric among women because of
its grace and brightness. Fancy jamawar shawls are more suitable for wedding events.

Kashmiri shawls: Decorated with various kind of embroideries; motifs and needlework; Kashmiri shawls
are known for their softness, warmth and traditional designs. The intricately embroidered and hand
woven shawls from Kashmir are popular throughout the world.

Pure wool shawls: They are also called raffal which have different counts of wool - 40, 60, 80 etc. - if the
count increases so does the price. Wool Printed shawls and embroidered wool shawls are in fashion this
year.
Plaid shawls: Check prints have always been in fashion. These prints are evenly popular among the
women and men of all ages. Bold and colourful check prints are in vogue. So, warm shawls in checks are

also going to be in demand this year as too.

Animal print shawls: Shawls in different patterns and prints are getting in fashion now. Among the
printed shawls, the most voguish shawls are going to be the hot and warm shawls in animal prints. Black
and white animal print will be in this winter.

Hand painted shawls: Another latest trend is going to be the trend of shawls painted with hands.
Beautiful shawls painted with stunning designs will be the most voguish among the teens, especially this
winter. Black shawls painted with colorful designs are really adorable.

Viscose shawls: They are the new generation shawls, hot favourite among young girls. Viscose shawls
are designed according to latest trends. These are available in vibrant patterns. They are an add-on to
complement your attire. Made up of wool woven tight patterns, viscose shawls are best suited for casual
occasions.

There are many ways that women wear shawls, and most have their own favourite style. It really does
depend on what look you are trying to achieve. A triangle shaped shawl can serve as a wrap if you get
tired of wearing jacket to work. It’s simple to do. Throw it on your shoulders and overlap each end at the
front to wrap the body then knot it at the back. It looks so cool and can keep you warm all day. But the
simple way of draping it over your shoulder is a quick way to accessorize and get out and about.
Audrey Hepburn once said, 'When I wear a silk scarf I never feel so definitely
like a woman, a beautiful woman.'
On glamorous stars such as Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly, nothing seemed to epitomise the
essence of chic more than their scarves, worn 'touring' style over the head, fluttering in the warm
Riviera breeze.

Scarves have been on the decline ever since. Aside from an occasional appearance on the catwalks,
these days you're more likely to spot one around the necks of freshly coiffured ladies of a certain age on
the King's Road.

But for a long time a silk scarf was as much a part of a woman's wardrobe as a smart handbag and a
trusty lipstick.

As a new book, Scarves, shows, they were not only an essential accessory for the first half of the 20th
century, they were also social artefacts that mirrored changes in art, fashion and lifestyle.

In the late 19th century shops such as Liberty - where you can still receive a lesson in how to knot your
square - specialised in selling fashionable scarves in Art Nouveau florals and oriental patterns.

When rayon was invented in the 1930s scarves could be mass-produced, and women who couldn't
afford a silk one could still keep up with current fashions.

In the 1940s designs became more subdued and scarves tended to be made of cotton, linen or wool.
Fashion magazines advised women who didn't have enough clothing coupons for a new hat to twist
their scarves into a turban or a snood.

Rather than a fashion statement, wearing one became a practical necessity in some cases; women
working in munitions factories during the Second World War wore scarves on their heads to prevent
their hair being caught in machinery. 'Cover your hair for safety. Your Russian sister does,' a government
poster proclaimed.

Designs in the 1950s reflected the new optimistic mood of rebirth and revival. The muted tones of the
war years were replaced by bright florals, such as the blues and pinks in the Jacqmar scarf shown here.

By the 1970s fashion designers were putting sketches and logos on to scarves. As well as being effective
advertising, 1980s scarves were often brash and light-hearted, as in Fiorucci's Roy Lichtenstein-inspired
design.

The book also contains examples produced as travel souvenirs. A scarf depicting the St-Tropez harbour
from the 1960s would have been worn around the bronzed necks of an increasingly well-travelled elite.
There are scarves bearing a grid of downtown Manhattan, Place Vendôme in Paris and - the rather less
exclusive - Blackpool.

Some of the most interesting examples in the book mark important occasions. One produced by Filmyra
Fabrics in 1943 features extracts from Winston Churchill's speeches.

Scarves were also made to mark famous sporting occasions, such as the 1953 Coronation Derby winner,
Pinza, or the London Olympics in 1948.

Scarves have also, of course, been used to commemorate royal occasions. One of the oldest in the book
features a wistful Duke of York, the future George V, and his bride to be, to mark their wedding in 1893.

Similar scarves fetch staggering sums at auction, so before you're tempted to dismiss any William and
Kate scarf-related memorabilia as naff, think again - it could become a collector's item.
A SHORT HISTORY OF SILK SCARVES AND SILK PRODUCTION
According to legend, the production of silk began accidentally. The legend say that sometimes in the
27th century B.C. a Chinese empress dropped a silk cocoon into her cup of tea. As she retrieved the
cocoon from the cup, it unfolded into a shimmering thread., Enchanted by the raw beauty of the thread,
The empress had a loom created so that the silk could be woven into a fabric.

No one will ever know if this story is truth or myth, but we do know that around that time the Chinese
began cultivating silk worms and producingsilk as a fabric.

At the time, silk was a luxury. Only the Emperor and his court were allowed to wear silk clothing. Before
long, though, sericulture (the cultivationof silk worms and the production of silk fiber) was spread
throughout the entire empire. Silk was woven for clothes, fishing lines, bowstrings, rag paper, and
musical instruments. Silk became a form of currency. Farmers paid taxes in silk. Servants were paid in
silk. Silk became an important commodity in Chinese trade.

For almost 3000 years the emperors of China, in order to keep a monopoly on sericulture, strove to keep
it a secret from other countries. This was mostly successful, although Chinese settlers did bring
sericulture to Korea and Japan around 200 BC, and by 300 AD India was producing silk.

An Egyptian mummy dating 1070 BC shows evidence of ancient silk trading. At first, trade was held to
neighboring countries, but as time went on, more regions gained access to silk, until it spread all the way
to Northern Africa and Western Europe, creating what is known as the Silk Road.

It took until the 6th century AD before the Western World began silk production, when the Roman
Emperor Justinian sent two monks to Asia. When the monks returned to Constantinople, they hid silk
worm eggs and mulberry leaves in their canes. Thus, the Byzantines now were able to begin silk
production.

Byzantium was as determined as China to retain a monopoly over the silk trade. Weavers and looms
were not allowed outside of the Imperial Palace and their fabric was worn almost exclusively by political
and military leaders. What little silk wasn’t worn by them was sold at exorbitant prices. Silk cultivation
then spread throughout Asia Minor and Greece.

In the 7th century, the Arabs conquered the Persians, and with them, the magnificent Persian silks The
Arabs then spread silk throughout Africa,Spain, and Sicily as they expanded their empire. Marco Polo’s
journeys to China, The Crusaders, and the formation of the Mongol Empire led to even more
development of the silk trade between East and West.

By the 12th century, Italy became the silk capital of the Western World, thanks to the Venetian
merchants. Presently, most Italian silk is made in Northern Italy near the city of Como, where the white
mulberry trees are planted for the silk worms.
In the 15th century, King Francois I started a silk production monopoly in Lyon, France which challenged
Italy’s leadership in silk production.In 1685, though, Louis XIV reversed the Edict of Nantes, which had
given Protestants (Huguenots) a number of rights in France. Many Huguenots were textile weavers and
they fled France establishing silk mills in Great Britain, Germany and Switzerland.

The silkworm, however, did not flourish in these cool climates, nor has it ever done well in the United
States. In 1804, Joseph-Marie Jacquard developed a complex loom that weaved complicated floral or
figured patterns onto a simpler background. This weave is still very desirable and expensive.

King James I introduced silk growing to the American colonies around 1619, but only the Shakers in
Kentucky adopted the process, and it did not become an industry. In the 1800’s a new effort to produce
silk in the United States began in New Jersey with European born weavers and in 1810 the first silk mill
in the U.S. was established. High tariffs against imported textiles during the American Civil War and the
onset of the power loom allowed a period of growth of the silk weaving industry in the United States.
The silk itself was produced mostly in China, Japan and to a lesser extent, France and Italy.

The 20th century heralded in a new era in textile working. Now, man began to create fibers. These man-
made fibers quickly became cheap to produce and distribute. Production of natural fibers, like silk,
began to reduce.

The Second World War had a tremendous effect on the production of silk. Japan’s raw silk supplies were
cut off from the Allied countries and the price of silk rose dramatically. Countries began using alternative
synthetic fibers for traditional silk products like parachutes and stockings.

In the last 30 years, world silk production has doubled. The allure and appeal of this remarkable luxury
fabric continues to grow and be appreciated.
HISTORY OF SCARVES - OUR COMPLETE GUIDE
As a symbol of femininity, the scarf is the ultimate chic fashion accessory radiating sophistication and
elegance. As a garment worn for practical purposes, a scarf can provide the wearer warmth or keep
them cool. The scarf comes in a many a shape and form demonstrating its ubiquity and ability to blend
into the wardrobes of undoubtedly every woman over the past few decades.

THE ORIGINS

The origins of the scarf trickle back to Ancient

Egypt, precisely to Queen Nefertiti, who was
believed to have worn a woven wrapped scarf
under an extravagant jewelled headpiece.

Whilst scarves are more often than not associated with the female wardrobe nowadays, they have been
worn by men and women for many centuries. In Ancient Rome, men wore them as ‘sweat cloths’ used
to keep cool and dry sweat.

In the Far East, scarves were worn by military personnel to show rank. Scarves with numerous designs,
worn in various ways can be viewed on the terracotta army soldiers, which were buried away more than
200 years BC.
It is even said that on his return from Egypt, Napoleon Bonaparte gifted his wife Josephine be
Beauharnais a pashmina scarf. Whilst she was cynical at first about this exotic gift, she is noted to have
collected over 400 scarfs over the next 3 years adding up to a total of around £80,000.

So being the fabulously fashionably avant-garde

lady of the limelight that she was, Josephine had
hundreds of shawls. Tons of fabrics. Tons of
colors. Most of them had neoclassical themes,
like simple borders and edges. Often they had
rich, vibrant colors that contrasted rather
beautifully with the otherwise plain and simple
white muslin dresses Josephine often wore. Her
shawls were legendary; Josephine's beautiful
cashmere shawls soon became all the rage in
Paris, despite the fact that they cost a FORTUNE.
Any fashionable bourgeois woman sported a
shawl when she went outdoors, and lots of
times (like 99% of the time) women even sat for
their portraits with their shawls.

It is easy to believe that the scarf was an overnight success, however the evolution of the scarf from a
plain practical accessory to a trendy must wear item most definitely did not happen overnight.

CASHMERE SHAWLS

Cashmere shawls became the epitome of high fashion in the 19th century. The famously Paisley pattern
was established during this time as it was the first town to manufacture cashmere ‘Paisley’ shawls
similar to those brought back by Bonaparte.
The town was home to 7000 weavers and the shawls were so popular that even Queen Victoria
purchased a shawl in 1842. In the latter half of the century, the popularity of shawls declined as new
trends emerged. Women's wardrobes developed so that it became more and more impractical to wear a
shawl draped over one's shoulders.

WAR DUTY

During the First World War, knitting became more than just a hobby for women, children and even men
all over the world. It was considered patriotic war duty. Tons of socks, sweaters and scarves were
produced to send to servicemen to keep them warm and dry in wartime conditions.

Whilst knitting nowadays is often considered an old-fashioned hobby, knitting saved the lives of many
servicemen during the war. Knitted goods were produced by the ton and shipped out to troops who
were battling harsh, wet and cold conditions not only in the trenches but also in the air too.

In addition to knitted scarves, pilots would also wear white silk scarves whilst flying as the soft, supple
fabric provided protection from neck chafing. During the First World War, silk played a very important
role in military operations. Silk bags were used to carry gunpowder charges for weapons as silk left no
residue when burnt. After the war, this surplus silk was made into garments, scarves, and furnishings.

THE EMERGENCE OF SCARVES AS ACCESSORIES

With the emergence of silk in the west, manufacturing methods were improving and many clothing
brands started producing silk accessories. Liberty Of London started producing light silk scarves that
became extremely popular during the post-war years. Their energetic prints provided a much-needed
tonic to the gloom that was life on the home front in the early years after the war.

Similarly, in 1937 French fashion house Hermès started importing Chinese silk to be woven into
luxurious square scarves. Raw silk imported from China was especially strong and more durable. Designs
reflected the Equestrian background that was deeply rooted in the history of Hermès and these designs
still prove to be the most popular nowadays. The classic Hermès touches which have become
synonymous with the brand such hand-rolled edges, hand-painted details and its 90cm x 90cm were all
established at this early stage.

DEVELOPMENT OF SYNTHETICS

Silk scarves, both now and then, are a luxury and can be unaffordable for many women. With the
invention of rayon in the 1930s, also known as viscose, this slippery fibre was a semi-synthetic material
that was named ‘artificial silk’. It could mimic all the properties of silk but it was a fraction of the price.

The scarf trend continued booming as it allowed more and more women to dress in the latest fashions.
However, with the outbreak of the Second World War, wardrobes had to become practical and sensible
above all else. Many women were drafted in to take over jobs that were ordinarily done by men. From
working in weapons manufacturing factories to flying military planes, the demands of ‘war work’ came
first.
Safety concerns within factories meant that women operating machinery had to make sure any long hair
was clearly swept away. This meant that women wore headscarves as a matter of necessity rather than
an accessory. As a result of clothes rationing throughout the Second World War, the colour palette
became dull and sullen as materials were limited to cotton and linen, which were cheaper and more
accessible.

SCARVES AS A PROPAGANDA TOOL

Despite the restraints of the war, notable British scarf brand Jacqmar of London continued producing
scarves with imaginative propaganda themes from 1940 -1945. Jacqmar started out supplying silk to
couture fashion houses around the world but soon noticed a lot of cut-offs that were produced and as a
result, they started producing silk scarves, which became extremely popular during the course of the
war. Fabric supplies were often short during this time, therefore Jacqmar would use offcuts from
parachute silk as well as rayon and linen.

Designs for scarves were based around 3 central themes: military, allied forces and the home front.
These were especially popular amongst young lovers and nowadays have become treasured collector's
items. Even the British Museum in London owns several rare Jacqmar scarves in their war costume
collection. In the post-war period, designs celebrated victory, as one can imagine, and then progressed
to more generic patterns such as florals and geometrics.

POST WAR SCARVES

After the end of the Second World War, the world was craving for more bold and vibrant colours in their
wardrobes. Patterned scarves attracted a wide audience during this time. From 1946 – 1955 textile
company, Ascher commissioned designs from leading artists around the world. Henri Matisse, Pablo
Picasso and Henry Moore were among the 42 world-renowned artists who contributed to the Ascher
‘Artists Squares’. The project not only united the art community post-war but also married ideals in both
art and fashion making fine art more accessible to the many.

SILK SCARVES AS A GLAMOUR ACCESSORY

As a form of self-expression, the silk scarf quickly came back into fashion; the material allowed for bright
patterns and vivid, sharp details to be printed. Hermès grew in popularity with the likes of Audrey
Hepburn and Grace Kelly wearing scarves in movies or parading their chic Hermès scarves throughout
New York and Monaco.
Silk scarves gained notoriety and soon became a symbol of glamour, power and independence. In the
words of Audrey Hepburn below 'When I wear a silk scarf I never feel so definitely like a woman, a
beautiful woman.'
Whilst Audrey liked to wear her scarves tied neatly around her neck, Brigitte Bardot styled her scarf into
a statement headband. Grace Kelly wore a Hermès silk scarf on the cover of LIFE magazine in 1956;
however, she hit headlines again when she wore a Hermès scarf as an arm sling later on in the same
year. Even the Queen, Elizabeth II, was emblazoned on a postage stamp wearing an Hermès scarf.

Designs at this time were light-hearted and captured an optimistic spirit which in turn meant that
women could be playful with not only their scarves but also their whole outfit choices. Not only was the
headscarf ‘the’ accessory amongst the rich and famous, it also gave them privacy. When styled with the
big sunglasses of the 60’s, the pairing acted as a veil for those who endeavoured to keep a level of
anonymity.

During this decade, it wasn’t only the fashionable elite that were buying into the luxurious silk scarves.
Famous New York restaurant, ’21 Club’ often simply ‘21’, has been frequented by celebrities since the
1930’s. Notable guests include Elizabeth Taylor, John F Kennedy and Ernest Hemingway to name but a
few. It is most probably recognised by the 21 jockey sculptures that feature on the façade of the
restaurant.

Each Christmas the owners would give away a customised scarf to their regular customers. These
designs would change yearly, however, the central theme was always equestrian and jockeys. These
have now become iconic in terms of scarf memorabilia as designs were so rare and very much sought
after.

SCARVES AS A LUXURY ACCESSORY

Many fashion houses also transferred their signature style onto scarves to encapsulate the feel of the
brand. The famous tartan check of Burberry could be worn by women all over the world on a scarf
costing less than a fifth of the price of a signature Burberry tan trench coat. This gave luxury fashion
brands a dominant global presence but more importantly, it gave women the opportunity to show off
their designer purchases.

Designs of the 80’s were bold and confident. Chanel used daring chains, to imitate the chain handles on
their handbags, and placed large interlocking CC logos over their scarves. These memorable designs
captured the distinctions from brand to brand and allowed women to firmly identify with certain brands
aesthetics over others.

A DECLINE IN POPULARITY IN THE 90'S 

With the 90’s approaching and the rise of manufacturing and cheap labour, many silk alternatives grew
in popularity. Bright vivid designs could just as easily be printed onto these materials and with less
expensive dyes in the process too. As silk is a particularly labour intensive practice, farmers became
disillusioned with the product when demand fell.

Silk scarves fell out of favour during the 90s and people flocked to buy accessories that were innovative
and striking. This elegant, stylish accessory was no longer the must-have item in the woman’s wardrobe
and soon disappeared from the spotlight.
REDISCOVERING AND REIMAGING CLASSIC DESIGNS

However, technology and transportation boomed in this decade, making travel easier and far more
accessible to the majority of the population. As the world opened up so did the fashion industry.
Designers took inspiration from all over the world and rediscovered treasures of the past.

Pashmina shawls which were only worn by wealthiest and most well-connected ladies were re-
envisioned and transformed into daily lifestyle necessities of the modern-era woman. Rediscovering the
sensuous qualities of cashmere wool meant that these scarves were admired for their comfort and
practicality over design.

CASHMERE SCARVES

Cashmere scarves and pashminas rose in popularity, as they were undeniably soft, warm and luxurious.
They were considered exotic and rare as cashmere was woven from Cashmere goats that inhabit the
mountainous regions of Kashmir, India. Their exclusivity attracted a large following that were drawn to
its fine, downy texture.

In fact, the name ‘Pashmina’ translates to ‘Soft Gold’ in the Kashmiri language. Traditionally the goats
are reared by nomadic tribes inhabiting regions at very high altitudes where temperatures drop to -40c
in the winter. For this reason, the Cashmere goat grows a thick undercoat to keep them warm. As
temperatures rise into spring, this coat is shed and this is where the wool used to make pashminas is
collected.

Many scarves are sold as pashmina’s in tourist markets around the world, but there is an easy trick to
test whether the scarf is made from true pashmina wool. If the entire scarf can pass through a ring with
a diameter of 1.3cm then you can be sure that it’s a genuine pashmina.

These scarves became popular in the 90s as they could be worn as a shawl wrapped around the
shoulders. As fashion became more daring, many styles of clothing became sleeveless or strapless.
Shawls allowed women to wear these on-trend styles but also protect their modesty by covering bare
arms and chests.

ADAPTING STYLES TO MODERN LIFE

More recently we have seen a shift towards other uses for scarves, new styles demand accessories that
adapt to our fast-paced lives. These items need to be flexible and keep up with the ever-changing
demands of the fashion industry.

Hermès re-invented the scarf with their Hermès ‘Twilly’ scarf, a long ribbon-like scarf which is named
after the ‘twill’ weave pattern used to create its fantastic drape. They look chic when wrapped around
the handles of a handbag, giving a touch of personality as well as protecting the bag. These scarves can
also be wrapped around wrists to make sleek, stand out bracelets.
As the Twilly is small, it can be used as a headband or used as a ribbon tied around a hat. It can also be
used as a hair tie or braided into plaits to add hints of colour and pattern to hair. More recently, we have
seen these scarves used as belts either on their own or wrapped around a belt then fastened around the
waist.

The multiple ways in which the ‘Twilly’ scarf can be incorporated into the modern woman’s wardrobe
had made it one of Hermès’ most successful designs. The Twilly scarf is a truly modern update to the
otherwise classic silk scarf.

RECENT TRENDS

If we look at recent trends from the catwalk we can see many nods to the timeless look of the silk scarf
as well as refreshing new styles. Stella McCartney sent models down her AW17 runway with
headscarves reminiscent of the queen on her Scottish country hideaway trips.

Prada opted for chunky knit scarves tightly wrapped like a choker to contrast sleek, tailored garments.
More and more we see runways filled with silk bandanas and headbands that exude glamour and
substance but are still relatable for both older and younger generations.

Turbans have always existed solely within religious dress for many centuries as a symbol of respect and
social status among men. However, ever since Prada paraded rainbow-hued glossy turbans down the
runway in 2007 it now comes second nature to many women to wrap a silk scarf around their hair then
wrapped into a turban.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Our love affair with scarves is unlikely to end anytime soon. We are enchanted with their multitudes of
forms and the possibilities seem endless when it comes to pattern and print. From a blooming floral
design to an indulgent woven pashmina, they morph with each season and our relationship with these
scarves develop because as well as being a much-adored fashion accessory they also provide comfort,
protection and modesty. Whether one is wearing a trendy headscarf as a fashion statement or as a belt,
wrist tie or handbag accessory it will forever have a permanent in every woman’s wardrobe.