FASHION INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP & TRAINING

UNDESTANDING THE ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE

UNDER GUIDANCE: Mr. AMITAVA CHOWDHURY

ORGANIZATION

EXTERNAL GUIDANCE: Mr. BASANT GAUR (SRM)

SUBMITTED TO -: Mr. AMITAVA CHOWDHURY & FMS DEPARTMENT

RAEBARELI
SUBMITTED BY -: KULDEEP KUSHWAH (MFM/19/1017)
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 Acknowledgement

An endeavor over a period can be successful only with the advice and support of well-wisher. I
take this opportunity to express my gratitude and appreciation to all those who encouraged me
during this time period of 6 week and to NIFT for giving me an opportunity to work in the industry.

I am ineffably to my industry mentor, Mr. Basant Gaur who took immense interest and
responsibility in increasing my knowledge about the industry and gave me the opportunity to work
under his guidance and supervision during this project.

I express my sincere thanks to Mr. Jaya Kumar who was Group Leader and help me during my
internship through his excellent guidance and constant inspiration.

I also extend thanks to the entire Mr. Sanjay Shukla and his team of Triburg for their keen help
and cooperation during the journey of my internship and colleagues who have supported me in this
endeavor.

Special thanks to my faculty and my mentor Mr. Amitava Chowdhury and Course Coordinator
of FMS Department, NIFT Raebareli Mr. Rajesh Choudhary. This project would not have been
possible without his ceaseless guidance, encouragement, trust and support.

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 Preface

Internship is an integral and basic requirement of fashion management students for getting the
chance to experience the industry first hand. It is aimed at providing the Fashion management
student with a professional experience by familiarizing them with a working knowledge of the
apparel industry and the relationship between design production. It also equips us with the
necessary knowledge, skills and the work ethics which are the basic requirements f the industry.

For this reason, I was placed as an intern in Triburg for the time of 6 week. It was an experience
through which I gained a lot of knowledge, found me strengths and realized my weakness. I also
learnt how to be affected by drawbacks and how to work around them.

During the whole duration I was thoroughly briefed about the process of Product development and
tracking bulk order in a buying house and was motivated to work on same. I consider myself lucky
to have been under the mentorship of such knowledgeable and experienced people who constantly
guided me and appreciated my work.

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 Content

SR. NO. TOPIC PAGE NO.

1 About Triburg 5

2 Triburg Resources 6

3 Triburg Assistance 7

4 Departments in Triburg 8-10

5 Organization Hierarchy 11

6 Product Initialization 12-15

7 Learning Outcomes 16-30

8 Key Learnings 31

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 About Triburg
Triburg is the largest buying agency in the India sub-continent claiming to be the only company
in India providing sourcing and technical services for the complete range of apparel products and
accessories. The Triburg group of companies was founded in 1981 with its main operation in
South Asia. Headquartered in Gurgaon, Triburg was established in the early 1990s as a buying
agency. At present I has a staff strength of 350+ people and source approximately US $ 500+
millions with of merchandise, comprising 35-40 million garments annually from vendors base of
over 150 factories.

In sync with the industry leading partners Triburg remain start alert to the constantly changing
needs of the market and the customer. Applying international standards to domestic ground
realities and findings the winning equation is company forte.

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 Triburg Resources

Business Activities:

With over 37 year of experience in the sourcing business Triburg is the only company in India
with expertise in providing a complete product range in textile apparel, leather apparel, bags and
home products including soft lines and hard lines.

A one stop for customers:

PD, raw material, production planning and management, quality assurance, export documentation,
Triburg make sure it will become one stop solution for their buyers.

A coordinated global network:

Triburg has 5 offices (Dubai, China, Sri Lanka & New York etc.) and their 22 branch & Liaison
offices spread over Asia & United State. Operating by 16 offices which are primarily cover the US
markets and actively approaching up in Europe market, Triburg is one of the Asia’s leading textile
and leather sourcing house.

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 Triburg Assistance

Triburg as an India’s leading apparel sourcing house, have helped and assisted global brands to
build and grow their business out of India subcontinent. Around 60 million garments shipped with
0.028% defect found more than 70,000 samples developed last year, more than 10,000 styles
shipped annually.

Near about three decades of industry experience with the emerging as well as leading global
brands. 500+ professionals around the world. Managing end to end services for global as well as
domestic apparel brands. Triburg reliable framework that delivers consistently and accurately.

Triburg provide 360degree service and solutions in design, development and planning. Cost
negotiation, manufacturing, quality, vendor, training and logistics

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 Departments in Triburg

1. Product development
PD is the most important department where the initialization of styles can be
start by understanding of fit and drape for men’s and womenswear,
internationally experienced advance pattern has been followed during
developing the styles highly involved in specific category. It starts with the
initial sample and ends up till pre-production sample then after bulk
production of style should be start.
▪ Design studio
▪ Concept and design
▪ Development
2. Production
Monitoring the styles and start by providing tech pack for creating initial
sample and Triburg has its own AFL (approved factory list) based on their
performance, quality, costing, delivery on time etc. merchants can visit the
factories to check the in-process quality control of manufacturing of the
garment. Also include pre-production meeting in which merchants decide and
finalize that they will start with the same manufacturing process for bulk
production which they follow to develop the sample.
▪ Lease with the clients
▪ Analyze orders
▪ Vendors interface
▪ Price and delivery
▪ Lease with all process of production

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3. Quality
Triburg is committed to delivering quality product to their buyers, monitoring
the process in every possible point for reducing the rejection and increase
efficiency, quality can be check in every sample made and sent it to buyers
for approval it start from initial sample and end up till bulk production,
increasing line efficiency standard quality setting can be done very
specifically
▪ Product Quality
▪ Packaging Quality
▪ Audit Failure Analysis
4. Finance & Accounts
▪ Manage finance for buying any new technology machines or any other kind of finance
relating transaction
▪ Managing all accounts related to employees, salaries, bonuses, promotion etc.
▪ Managing every challan required for the samples and fabric when needed to move out
of the premises.
5. Travel
Travel to different countries for presenting the developed styles and meeting
with buyers and finalize the fabric, styles and prints of require in the styles.
Also monitoring the on-going program in factories visit there and check the
quality of in progress garments.
▪ Managing travelling and transport for associates for meetings with buyer as well as
factory visit.
6. Fabric
Development of different fabrics including knits, woven and non-woven
fabric and sourced from across Europe and Asia. Fabric developed in Triburg
on the basis of current trend and forecasting. Global mill easily accessible by
Triburg across India, Europe and Asia. Cost play an important role during

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 selection of mill to source the fabric, monitoring the manufacturing of fabric
its quality for better production of garments.
▪ Fabric development
▪ Sourcing
▪ Liaison with mills
▪ Quality
7. IT Department
It is the main driver of company efficiency and automation in task.it enables
to communicate flawlessly with buyers and internally with the other
employees. It also controls the flow of information and create a policy which
defines information is correct or accessible. It basically monitors the company
major sectors like Governance, Infrastructure and functionality.
▪ Emailing on SMPT server
▪ Key vendor online
▪ EDI ready
▪ Scan pack complaints
8. Triburg design studio
Triburg looking for Trends and inspiration from international fashion capitals
and also used WGSN for developing new styles according to the trends. There
are more than 35 senior designers who have plenty of experience and try to
develop new style according to trends and buyer’s taste. Design studio is fully
equipped with the new technology. There is dedicated team allotted to
particular brands which handles the styles and developing style with buyer’s
specification. It is a creative space to design new things and innovate in real
world.
▪ Forecasting & trend analysis
▪ Development of print work and embossing concept using in house facilities
▪ Develop customer profile designs.

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 Organization Hierarchy

CEO

MD

GM

Team Leader Quality Managers

Group Leader Quality Associates

SRM Design Manager

Merchant Merchant

In Triburg the organizational structure is in pyramid shaped which basically indicates that it
follows Hierarchal Organization, it the most common structure which is followed by most of
successful companies. Authorities and responsibilities are better to be understand by the
employees of the organization. In Triburg there 6 major teams which includes 6 Team Leaders
and followed by Group Leaders in every team, different brands are allocated to different teams
and groups the Group Leader has it own team to follow up the order. Group Leader led to 2
SRM which have the responsibility to convert potential buyer into customers and follow up
all the important area which required and every SRM has 2 Asst. Merchandiser who have dealt
with the basic operation which very important visiting the factory follow up the order make
sure every approval has been done by the buyer and till the bulk order proceed.
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 Product Initialization

Design Research: (Meeting with buyer)

▪ In the initial stage buyer’s designers show their own design based on buyer core style product
which is basically business driven styles products for the brand and another collection has
different from their core style based on new fashion trends.
▪ On other side Triburg has done their own research based on new season trend and buyer profile
and prepare collection for buyer. If buyer like design of a style and need few changes on it
related to fit, fabric or trims they discuss those things with the Product development team and
manufacturing planning team.
FDS: (Fabric Detail Sheet)

▪ Buyer ask for fabric detail sheet for the particular style in which the contact detail of the mills,
fabric technical specification, mills technical capabilities, dye requirements, finishes
requirements and prices of fabric are described. Buyer review the FDS and let them know if
there are any changes required in FDS buyer can do that at this point of stage.
Tech Pack:

▪ Buyer send tech pack to Triburg in which multiple information is mention regarding garment
measurements, construction, fabric to be used, trims to be used etc.
▪ According to the tech pack factory master prepares a initial sample with available trims but
actual fabric must be used in that sample preparation.
Initial sample:

▪ At this point receiving buyers concepts, design and instruction on the new style, and sample
are made up with actual fabric which will be used in the final garments, color variation would
be allowable in initial sample but fabric should be the same as per the FDS so buyer can check
the drape, fit and look of the fabric as an garment and after sending initial sample buyer give
comments on it if there are things need to be change.

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▪ We don’t need to use any trims and labels in initial sample. If relatable trims are available in
house so we can use it as a reference. Main focus in initial sample is to check the behavior of
fabric after construction in to final garment shape.
Fabric Development:

▪ Initial sample prepared in actual fabric and reviewed by buyer after then Fabric bulk order
process started.
▪ For solid color lab dip approval is very important process before booking FBO
▪ There are other approvals such as prints and embroidery artwork approval and color approval
are done. It will be done later stage at point of Pre-Production costing of garment.
▪ Merchant prepare cost sheet with detailed cost breakup such as raw material, manufacturing,
overhead and margins.
▪ After the whole process done Fabric bulk order has to be booked by Triburg to the preferred
mill.
Kick off meeting:

▪ In kick off meeting buyer can drop some styles or hold them for future season on other side
buyer can add some other styles in the collection and then proceed with SMS (salesmen
sample).
SMS Purchase Order:

▪ On the basis of chosen style Triburg prepare salesmen sample

▪ Salesmen sample cost around 1.5 times of the cost that is decide at the end of initial sample
stage.
▪ For preparing SMS Triburg book 50-60 yad of fabric, trims and sample yardage.
▪ Before sending SMS Triburg prepare Pre-salesmen sample and send it to buyer for reviewing
it.
▪ If buyer approved Pre-salesmen sample then Triburg proceed with the final SMS or if buyer
want few changes in final SMS then will continue to prepare final SMS based on those
comments.

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Bulk Purchase Order:

▪ After preparing final SMS of the style buyer decide to distribute those SMS to their different
agents (District manager/Zonal manager) ask them to review the SMS and give feedbacks,
based on their requirement convey the quantity of the unit to the demand team of the brand for
booking bulk order for the particular style.
Time & Action for bulk order:

▪ Based on MOQ Triburg prepares TNA for actively tracking and aid for the order to identify if
the order execution is on track or delayed
▪ Every task has been specified in TNA like date of booking fabric, trims, on machine garments,
washing, finishing etc.
Purchase Order:

▪ Commercial document and first official offer issued by a buyer to Triburg. In purchase order
everything is specified like total units ordered, sizes per unit,
Color per unit, total cost of order etc.
Pattern making:

▪ After receiving PO Triburg ask factory pattern master prepare first fit pattern and redevelop
pattern adding buyer comments and reflect it on fit sample.
▪ After fit approval pattern master grad pattern for size set samples only for specified sizes. If
order is ready for production, then grade pattern for whole lot will proceed.
Fit sample:

▪ Fit samples produced by the factory, Triburg receives the fit sample and review it on dummy
to check the garment make in certain parameters they fit properly to human body.
▪ If fit sample not approved or further changes is recommended by buyer correction is done and
resubmitted finally to buyer for final approval.

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Production Planning:

▪ Planning is needed for sourcing raw material fabrics, trims, yarn, etc. based on capacity of
order quantity.
Placing order:

▪ Bulk order placed after reviewing vendors capacity and quality that they provided.
Fabric and other raw material testing:

▪ As per the buyer selection a third-party testing agency review all the fabrics and trims as per
the buyer specification. In testing fabrics and trims physical and structural properties are tested.
▪ There are two testing which is required to pass by thirds party testing agency is
GPT = garment package testing, in this testing basically they review the poly bags and prints on
the packaging material are match with requirement of buyer or not.
FPT = fabric performance testing, in this test reviewer check the physical properties of the fabric
like how it behaves after 20 washes, color fastening, shrinkage, pilling, fray etc. these properties
are tested during the testing.
FPT is very important process for proceeding bulk order.
Pre-production samples:

▪ Once actual fabric and trims sourced factory proceed for PP sample.
▪ pre-production meeting with production team, quality team and sourcing team.
▪ All the specific comments and reviews procedure to be followed.
▪ Scheduling planned cut date and shipment date.

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 Learning Outcomes

Brand: Tommy Bahama

“Make life one long weekend”

This is a lifestyle brand, people use to relaxed go for a vacation on beach side want to stick their
feet in the sand, Cocktail hour, Beach Surf and hang out with family and friends love to buy
Tommy Bahama merchandise. Brand captures the essence of luxurious, island living and designed
for endless summer. Tommy Bahama come up with men’s and women’s casual apparel, inspired
from Soft winds and gentle breezes, an orange sunset, sand and Palm trees out there maybe the
most basic elements that brand use to take inspiration for their designs which really feel the island
lifestyle in a very elegant manner. Brand creates a perception that people don’t think of a shirt or
a pair of pants, people think of a place, and they picture themselves in that place by wearing their
merchandise.

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 Product Development of Tommy Bahama

1. Design developing:
▪ Tommy Bahama sends design folders with relevant sketches of product/garments, color
and inspiration-ordinates, image of inspired collection and labels.
▪ On the basis of information provided by Tommy Bahama and understanding the trends,
sample garments are prepared.
▪ All designs to be developed according to the Tommy Bahama instruction, complete
range could be prepared from the unique collection.
2. FDS Review
▪ Tommy Bahama ask for the fabric detail sheet for reviewing the vendors and cost of
fabric, technical specification of fabric etc.

3. Mock samples development

▪ At the final stage Tommy Bahama develops the design then Triburg proceed for mock
samples and sent to Tommy Bahama for their approval.
▪ Approval of the mock sample is very important point for securing the order, at this
stage Tommy Bahama choose its styles and vendor the for further process.
▪ Important aspect for Tommy Bahama in mock sample:

Design- embroidery, pleats, textures and yarns can be ideally designed and presentable such that
it gives clear vision of the final design. In case Tommy Bahama felt that any yarn or texture etc. is
not useful for bulk order manufacturing, it should be clearly communicated to the Tommy Bahama
and suggest them alternatives for such styles should be presented.

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Fabric- fabric swatches presented to Tommy Bahama for the design range, it is mandatory to
present fabric swatches in an aesthetic manner and have all the relevant technical information of
fabric should be there.

Trims- during developing mock sample trims should not be ignored. Trims play import ant role to
give unique identification to the garment.

4. Tech Pack
It is a complete set of information and instructions which is required to prepare a product. Including
all the technical details that are commencement of manufacturing of a product.

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Components of tech pack:

▪ Flat sketch
▪ Commercial and organizational information
▪ Fabric details
▪ Measurements
▪ Size set chart
▪ Garment construction details
▪ Yarn details
▪ Trims details
Proceeding with tech pack:

▪ At the earliest tech pack received it is important to figure out the correct vendors for
sourcing the fabric, trims, and other raw material.
▪ Tech pack can be circulated to all CFT to make sure further operation run smoothly.
▪ For achieving best quality product, it is necessary to follow each and every component of
the product in detail.
▪ Preparing a TNA for proceeding order with smooth success.
▪ Initiate preparation for all the different testing which are to be done to make it acceptable
final style for Tommy Bahama
▪ Plan and start the development of various pre-production samples which may help to
finalize the actual design and construction of garment.

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▪ Tommy Bahama approval should call out as early as possible to ignore the delay in
development of proto samples.
▪ Tech pack could be closed by the shipment of samples with in a period of 45-50 days.
Sample development:

▪ Sample should be developed as soon as possible receiving tech pack by Tommy Bahama
is very important to finalize final design and construction for the style.
5. Kick off meeting
▪ In this meeting Tommy Bahama mention any changes in design
▪ Also, Tommy Bahama can hold or drop any design and they can additionally introduce
new style in the program for ongoing season.

6. SMS Purchase Order

▪ Tommy Bahama book SMS PO around 30-40 unit per style. SMS cost around 1.5 time of
the cost we closed at initial sample stage. It takes 40-50 days to complete the SMS.
▪ In SMS all the actual fabric, trims, packaging, labels etc. used for analyzing how final
product landed into market.
▪ For making final SMS presentable Triburg book fabric, trims and other required raw
material and start to develop SMS at every stage Triburg need approval for developing
SMS like fabric lab dip approval, trims approval etc.

7. SMS distribution
▪ When the final SMS approved by Tommy Bahama, they used to send all 30-40 SMS to
their agents (District Manager/Zonal Manager) of stores to review that SMS and give
feedback on it.
▪ After reviewing the SMS agents analyze the demand of particular style demand in their
area and based on their analysis, they provide quantity to the demand team of Tommy
Bahama to book the order.

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8. Purchase Order
▪ After receiving the feedback and review from agent Tommy Bahama prepare an official
document where quantity, color, size etc. mentioned in detail and the cost of the garment
also mention so Triburg can proceed on the basis of that PO further.

9. Fit sample
▪ Fit sample should be prepared as soon as possible after receiving size chart from the tech
pack. It should be in correct fitting, actual fabric and trims if available in house. After
developing fit sample analyses the how final product look and what are the difficulties that
could be meet with attain the desire fit and design. Every possible change which is advised
by Tommy Bahama right away updated in tech pack and that tech pack further sent to
factory and the team related to this program. Without approval from Tommy Bahama order
would not be proceed. Fit samples should be finalizing within 3 months to ensure smooth
running of order.

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10. Size set sample development
▪ In this sample development product manufactured in each and every size which is
mentioned in PO, it important to develop product in every size to check order are done
being done in right way and in correct fitting on models and dummy.
▪ It is important that garment should not lose its aesthetics because of different sizes.

11. Pre-production sample

▪ It is the final sample is to be made to get final call of approval from buyer and confirmed
on the order, PP sample is the final contract between factory and Triburg.
▪ PP sample has to be exact representation of the final product which will be landed into the
market it can be followed as a standard while commencing bulk production.

12.Third party testing

▪ In case of Tommy Bahama, they nominated SGS for the lab testing where FPT and GPT
has been done and on the basis of testing SGS prepares a report and send it Triburg.
▪ If the fabric and packaging test the pass Triburg proceed with the same if the reports are
not showing pass result the possible changes required to correct the things can be done by
Triburg.
▪ Usually PP sample, FPT and GPT sent along to the SGS.

13.Bulk production start

▪ To make sure smooth run of production operations, it is important to follow up all the
production process timey and update all concern person related to this program.
▪ Confirming bulk sourcing to start production it makes sure all the correct raw material has
to be sourced for the style also check the volume of the ordered raw material is correct.
▪ Follow up of all events in the production operations are important to be followed accurately
and on time. Spreading, cutting, construction, finishing and final packing.

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▪ Quality Management can be checking regularly every stage and operation of manufacturing
garment. It also makes sure TOP sample and shipment samples are approved without
failure so quality management plays vital role in bulk production.
▪ After approval of TOP sample bulk quantity proceed in same way to achieve the same
quality.

14.Logistics
▪ The physical movement of the order from factory to the receiving point.
▪ Material handling
▪ Goods distributed
▪ Freight and transport
▪ EXIM documents
▪ Ensure safe delivery

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 Key Learning

➢ Color evaluation:
Evaluation and describe color and color variation results are crucial for communicating color to
vendors and buyers.

In garment industry an expert evaluates color they must follow parameters:

1. L- value lighter/duller
2. C-chroma brighter/duller
3. H-hue redder/yellow/greener/bluer

▪ Modifiers: slightly/much
▪ Viewing angle of color should be 45 degree.
▪ Lab dips matching with pantone color
▪ Values are given to color on scale of 1 to 10

➢ Washes:
This process is used to modifies the outlook appearance, comfort ability & fashion of the garments.

1. Appearance (color loss, abrasion, seams of the garment)

2. Pucker level
3. Hand feel
Various types of washes

1. Normal wash
2. Pigment wash
3. Bleach wash
4. Acid wash
5. Stone wash
6. Enzyme wash
7. Caustic wash

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