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Application of the Functional, Expressive and Aesthetic Consumer Needs


Model: Assessing the clothing needs of adolescent girls with disabilities

Article in International Journal of Fashion Design Technology and Education · November 2012
DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2012.700735

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Application of the Functional, Expressive and Aesthetic


Consumer Needs Model: assessing the clothing needs of
adolescent girls with disabilities
a b
Bailey Stokes & Catherine Black
a
Apparel, Merchandising, Design and Textiles, Washington State University, PO Box 642020,
Pullman, 99164-2020, USA
b
AMDT, Washington State University, Pullman, 99163, USA

Version of record first published: 24 Aug 2012

To cite this article: Bailey Stokes & Catherine Black (2012): Application of the Functional, Expressive and Aesthetic
Consumer Needs Model: assessing the clothing needs of adolescent girls with disabilities, International Journal of Fashion
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International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education
2012, 1–8, iFirst article

Application of the Functional, Expressive and Aesthetic Consumer Needs Model: assessing the
clothing needs of adolescent girls with disabilities
Bailey Stokesa* and Catherine Blackb
a
Apparel, Merchandising, Design and Textiles, Washington State University, PO Box 642020, Pullman 99164-2020, USA;
b
AMDT, Washington State University, Pullman 99163, USA
Downloaded by [Washington State University Libraries ], [Bailey Stokes] at 10:38 24 August 2012

(Received 13 January 2012; final version received 3 June 2012)

The purpose of this study was to investigate clothing needs of adolescent girls with disabilities with the application of
the Functional, Expressive and Aesthetic (FEA) Consumer Needs Model (Lamb, J.M. and Kallal, M.J., 1992. A
conceptual framework for apparel design. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 10, 42–47). Survey data were
collected from 33 adolescent girls with disabilities. Functional, expressive and aesthetic considerations of the FEA
Model were used to analyse responses regarding satisfaction with specific garment types and general clothing needs.
While functional considerations were most often reported, adolescents also indicated a number of expressive and
aesthetic considerations. Regardless of their level of clothing interest, the common functional considerations
identified were issues with fit and difficulty donning and doffing including difficulty with garment fasteners. Safety
was not a consideration identified in the FEA Model but was identified by the adolescents as important when
considering their level of satisfaction. Based on the results of this study, recommendation for future applications of
the FEA Consumer Needs Model is presented.
Keywords: FEA Consumer Needs Model; disability; adolescents; functional design; needs assessment

1. Introduction The purpose of this study was to investigate the


Adolescents spend a great deal of time working on their clothing needs of adolescent girls with disabilities with
appearance and observing peers in an attempt to create the application of the Functional, Expressive and
an image similar to their peers (Horn 1981). Adoles- Aesthetic (FEA) Consumer Needs Model (Lamb and
cents use clothing to conform to their peer group, Kallal 1992). For brevity, the FEA Consumer Needs
conform to role models and feel better about their Model will be referred to as the FEA Model.
bodies (Kaiser 1997). Adolescents with disabilities also
feel the need to conform to their peer group. Americans
with Disabilities Act (ADA) defines an individual with 2. Conceptual framework
a disability as a person who has documented physical The FEA Model is a user-centred model intended to
or mental impairment that impacts one or more identify the clothing needs of the end consumer (Lamb
major life activities (US Department of Justice 2005). and Kallal 1992). While originally developed as a
A social model of disability describes disability as teaching tool to assist student designers in conceptua-
being constructed by society’s environment and attitu- lising the design process, the model has been applied to
dinal barriers. By using a social model, designers and relevant areas of functional design research including
researchers look at the user’s needs rather than assuming hospital gowns (Cho 2006) and women’s sailing
people have clothing issues because of physical and/or apparel (Bye and Hakala 2005). The FEA Model
mental limitations (Lamb 2001, Smart 2001). The focus assesses functional, expressive and aesthetic considera-
of designers and researchers can be directed towards tions to identify consumer needs and wants (Figure 1).
clothing meeting the abilities of individuals. Consumers judge products from within their
While clothing designed especially for individuals cultural surroundings. Culture ‘acts as a mediator or
with disabilities may benefit some adolescents, specia- filter between the intended users of apparel and their
lised clothing may also set them apart from their peers. requirements or desires in their apparel items’ (Lamb
While studies have investigated the clothing needs of and Kallal, p. 43). Successful design depends on
individuals with disabilities, since the 1960s very few congruency with the target customer’s culture such as
studies have focused on adolescent girls with disabilities. the adolescent culture.

*Corresponding author. Email: stokesba@wsu.edu

ISSN 1754-3266 print/ISSN 1754-3274 online


Ó 2012 Taylor & Francis
http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2012.700735
http://www.tandfonline.com
2 B. Stokes and C. Black

gores or pleats were preferred by women with cerebral


palsy, whereas women without cerebral palsy preferred
a straight silhouette skirt. Centre front closures were
preferred by young women with cerebral palsy, unlike
young women without cerebral palsy, who preferred
centre back closures. Smiley (1971) compared the
clothing perceptions of early adolescent girls with and
without orthopaedic disabilities. She found no sig-
nificant difference between the psychological clothing
perception or the self-perception of girls with ortho-
paedic disabilities and girls without orthopaedic
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disabilities. Like Smiley, Liskey-Fitzwater et al.


(1993) also studied the expressive needs of adolescent
girls. The authors compared the clothing interests and
self-perceptions of adolescent females with scoliosis
and without scoliosis. They found no significant
difference between the two groups in regard to
conformity, modesty, psychological awareness and
interest in clothing. However, girls with scoliosis rated
themselves significantly lower on the use of clothing to
Figure 1. The FEA Consumer Needs Model. Source: Lamb enhance their self-concept. The authors assumed that
and Kallal (1992, p. 42). Monument, CO. International
this may have been due to the difficulty of camoufla-
Textile and Apparel Association. Copyright 1992 by
International Textile and Apparel Association. ging back braces worn by the girls.
Researchers have also investigated functional and
aesthetic style features and design preferences. de
Functional considerations are concerned with a Klerk and Ampousah (2002) interviewed 40 women
product’s ability to perform the tasks required by the with disabilities in South Africa. The women reported
customer. Comfort, donning and doffing, fit, and the lack of fashionable garments suitable for their
mobility were identified as significant considerations disabilities. The participants indicated problems with
for adolescents with disabilities. Expressive considera- style and fit of various garment types including dresses
tions of a product must be congruent with the (86%), jackets (60%), skirts/pants (55%) and blouses
customer’s status and self-image in order to be (48%). The women also preferred style features such as
purchased and/or worn. Aesthetic considerations in- front openings, pleated skirts and elasticised waist-
clude style and design. bands that enabled ease of donning and doffing. When
evaluating ‘adaptive’ garments, college students with
disabilities preferred design features that were fashion-
3. Clothing and disabilities able and decorative, but not style features seen as
Due to limited research specific to adolescents with functional (Freeman et al. 1985–1986). Even invisible
disabilities, the authors reviewed selected studies of features may result in self-devaluation of the wearer if
women with disabilities of various ages. Studies the garments are viewed as symbolically different from
investigating the clothing needs of individuals with the norm. Garments that appear to serve only
disabilities were conducted as early as the 1960s functional needs of a disability can make the wearers
(Frescura 1963, Dallas 1965, Gamwell and Joyce feel as though they look different from their peers.
1966). The articles reviewed addressed issues related Kidd’s (2006) design students created special occasion
to the FEA Model. dresses for four women aged 16–20 that required
Dallas (1965), Smiley (1971) and Liskey-Fitzwater crutches, braces and/or wheelchairs. Kidd’s (2006)
et al. (1993) investigated selected functional, expressive research focused on the fit and safety of the garments.
and aesthetic considerations to compare females with A major concern identified was dress length especially
and without disabilities. Dallas (1965) interviewed since, if a dress was too long, then the adolescent could
adolescent and young adult women with cerebral palsy get the hem caught under a walker or crutches.
regarding their preferences for functional and aesthetic Based on research by Kidd (2006) and Bye and
features in their everyday clothing. Garment and Hakala (2005), the authors identified user safety as a
garment features preferred and worn by women with functional consideration not in the FEA Model.
cerebral palsy were different than those worn by Therefore, safety questions were incorporated into
women without cerebral palsy. Fuller skirts with flare, this study, since clothing may impede or inhibit
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education 3

mobility devices such as wheel chairs or crutches when Table 1. Disabilities and assistive mobility devices.
the body/garment/near environment interact. Based on Frequency (n ¼ 23)
the FEA Model and the review of literature, the
following research questions were developed to address Disabilities
the purpose of this study: Limited lower body use 13*
Limited upper body use 9
Hand dexterity impairment 14
(1) What is the level of satisfaction adolescent girls Incontinence 2
with disabilities have with functional consid- Other 10
Assistive mobility devices
erations of clothing identified by the FEA Electric wheelchair 6
Model? Manual wheelchair 4
(2) What is the level of satisfaction adolescent girls Prosthesis 1
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with disabilities have with expressive considera- Leg braces 6


Crutches 1
tions of clothing identified by the FEA Model? Walker 2
(3) What is the level of satisfaction adolescent girls Other 3
with disabilities have with aesthetic considera- Do not use 7
tions of clothing identified by the FEA Model?
Note: *Total is greater than number of subjects due to multiple
responses.
4. Methods
4.1. Sample and data collection Table 2. Satisfaction with functional considerations se-
lected garments.
Readers of Logan Magazine, a lifestyle magazine for
young people with disabilities, camps, schools and A B AþB
independent living centres provided a purposive Dissatisfied Neutral Satisfied
sample of adolescent girls with disabilities. Subjects Garment type f f f f %
were aged 13–18 who had a disability as described in
Coat (n ¼ 23)
the US Department of Justice (2005). According to Fit 14 5 4 19 82.6
Brault (2009), less than 6% of people under the age of Comfort 5 9 9 14 60.9
14 in the US have some kind of disability. Because this Safety 3 8 12 11 48.8
is a small percentage of the population, a purposive Ease of donning 10 2 11 12 52.2
Ease of doffing 9 2 12 11 48.8
sample was seen as the most successful method of Dresses (n ¼ 13)
finding such specific participants. Fit 9 1 3 10 76.9
Comfort 6 4 3 10 76.9
Safety 1 6 4 7 53.8
4.2. Questionnaire: functional, expressive and Ease of donning 5 2 6 7 53.8
Ease of doffing 6 2 5 8 61.5
aesthetic considerations Pants (n ¼ 26)
The FEA Model provided the foundation for the Fit 18 4 4 22 84.6
analysis of clothing based on functional, expressive or Comfort 8 5 14 13 50.0
Safety 3 10 13 13 50.0
aesthetic considerations. The majority of responses to Ease of donning 17 1 9 18 69.2
the open-ended questions were functional in nature. Ease of doffing 15 2 9 17 65.4
Shirts (n ¼ 23)
Fit 14 2 7 16 69.6
4.2.1. Functional considerations Comfort 4 6 14 10 43.5
Safety 2 10 10 12 52.2
Functional considerations reported included issues Ease of donning 6 5 11 11 48.8
with fit, comfort, mobility, and donning and doffing Ease of doffing 5 5 13 10 43.5
Skirt (n ¼ 13)
for each garment type. Participants indicated their Fit 5 2 7 7 53.8
level of satisfaction for each of the five garment types Comfort 2 3 9 5 38.7
(Table 2), reporting on the specific garment types they Safety 0 5 9 5 38.7
wear. One of the most common solutions for Ease of donning 0 4 8 4 30.8
Ease of doffing 0 5 9 5 38.7
adolescents who were dissatisfied was to not wear
specific garment types such as dresses and skirts. The
fact that adolescents do not wear specific garment
types may indicate that their needs are not met. too small/short/narrow, appropriate or too big/long/
Fit considerations were reported for each garment wide. Pant waist fit (65%) and inseam length (64%)
type including girth and length (Table 3). For each were also identified as problematic. One participant
garment feature, respondents indicated if the fit was described how she managed: ‘[I] always have to hem up
4 B. Stokes and C. Black

Table 3. Experience with fit in selected garments.

A B AþB
Too short/too small Appropriate Too long/too big
Garment type f f f No response f %
Coat (n ¼ 24)
Neckline 4 19 1 0 5 21
Waist length 2 15 5 1 7 32
Sleeve length 2 10 12 0 14 58
Armhole Circumference (CC) 5 10 4 0 9 47
Shoulder fit 5 10 8 1 13 57
Dresses (n ¼ 15)
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Neckline 2 6 5 2 7 54
Waist length 3 10 2 0 5 33
Sleeve length 1 7 7 0 8 53
Armhole CC 5 7 3 0 8 53
Shoulder fit 3 5 5 2 8 73
Length 4 2 7 2 11 85
Dress width 6 8 1 0 7 47
Pants (n ¼ 28)
Waist CC 12 9 5 2 17 65
Inseam length 3 6 18 1 21 78
Leg width 7 16 3 2 10 38
Shirt (n ¼ 24)
Neckline 6 9 7 2 13 59
Waist length 11 10 3 0 14 58
Sleeve length 2 7 8 7 10 71
Armhole CC 5 18 1 0 6 25
Shoulder fit 4 11 9 0 13 54
Skirt (n ¼ 15)
Waist CC 3 9 3 0 6 40
Length 6 5 4 0 10 67
Skirt width 4 10 1 0 5 33

at least a few if not several inches. With the flared leg comfort. ‘I like bootcut jeans especially if they are
or ‘‘bell-bottom’’ style, this doesn’t work. [I] have to stretchy because they are fashionable but are also more
buy pants in women’s petite which is not always very comfortable than skinny jeans or straight leg jeans’,
stylish’. Shirt, skirt and dress length were also explained one participant.
identified as either too long or too short by 45.8%, Mobility considerations were often related to the
66% and 84.6% of respondents, respectively. In constraint of arms and legs. Bulky coats were difficult
addition to issues with length, armhole circumference to wear due to restrictive movement. One participant
(53%) and shoulder fit of dresses were too narrow or explained why she does not wear jackets: ‘Too bulky
too wide for many respondents (56%). More than 50% and [arm] mobility needed’.
of the participants indicated that they found coat Ease of donning and doffing garments also
sleeves too long and shoulder widths either too narrow involved mobility considerations, both gross and fine
or too wide. Designers and researchers need to assess motor skills. Difficulties with donning and doffing were
both static and dynamic clothing fit. Assessing clothing often related to style or placement of fasteners which
when an individual is sitting, standing and lying would were reported as difficult to manipulate for each
be considered static fit, while dynamic fit refers to garment type. Donning and doffing issues were
assessing clothing when an individual is performing an consistent with the findings of Shannon and Reich
activity. (1979). Adolescents were asked to describe changes
Comfort considerations were related to poor fit and they would make to a coat they bought but did not
excessive fabric bulk when sitting. Comfort was like, 42% of responses included fastener changes. Only
expressed by one participant who used a wheelchair. two participants felt that fasteners on shirts were easy
She stated: ‘It is hard to have the fabric pulling on your to use. Open-ended responses revealed just how
back or just having all that fabric bunched behind your difficult fasteners were for the adolescents to manip-
back’. While this comment addressed an issue with ulate due to limited hand dexterity. For example,
long coats, the same would be true of any long ‘[A skirt] with too many buttons is really frustrating to
garment. Specific styles of pants were also preferred for get on and off. If a piece of clothing is a hassle, I won’t
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education 5

wear it’. The finding concurred with those of Gamwell wrap around band that can be tied in the front or a
and Joyce (1966), who reported that the most frequent zipper on the side as opposed to the back’, stated one
problem found when selecting suitable garments was participant.
difficulty with fasteners. Elastic waistbands, snaps and
Velcro1 were identified as suitable alternatives to
buttons and zippers. One adolescent said: ‘I need 4.2.2. Expressive considerations
elastic waists and there are no cute pants like that’. Although responses to open-ended questions were
Another adolescent indicated: ‘[I] have not been able to primarily related to functional considerations, expres-
find ANY pants in teen departments that have elastic sive considerations brought up a number of issues too.
waists, therefore, we can’t buy them or have to have Self-esteem and insecurity issues were raised as reasons
the waist completely remade, very expensive!’ This for not wearing skirts and pants. The potential for
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finding concurred with the results of research by de people to see up skirts when sitting was raised.
Klerk and Ampousah (2002) who reported that 76% of Respondents reported they were ashamed of the
the participants in their study indicated a preference appearance of their legs as a reason for not wearing
for elastic waistbands. skirts. ‘[I have] insecurity problems with my skinny
The respondents indicated that the donning of legs’, stated one participant. Another shared, ‘My mom
coats (52%), pants (69%) and shirts (49%) were more says I’m not lady like enough to wear [dresses]. Plus it is
problematic than doffing of each garment type, too hard to do my colostomy bag cares with a dress
respectively (coats 49%, pants 65% and shirts 43%). unless I take it all the way off’. Getting clothing caught
While donning and doffing has been previously under a crutch or wheel could not only result in injury
reported as an issue, no research reports indicated but was also reported as embarrassing in that it affected
the differences in the levels of difficulty associated with self-esteem. Reasons for not wearing skirts reflected
donning and doffing. This finding needs further problems with social aspects of clothing which are
investigation to identify reasons for the differences. important for designers to consider when developing
To improve ease of donning and doffing, designers apparel. Research has shown that a garment may be
need to consider the placement and type of fasteners functional but if it does not ‘fit in’ or if it makes the
in light of fine motor skills of adolescents with person look like they have a disability the garment will
disabilities. not be adopted (Freeman et al. 1985–1986).
A functional consideration identified in the current The lack of modest clothing available in junior
study but not identified in the FEA Model was safety. departments was reported. Expressive considerations
Safety is an important consideration for adolescents included garments being too tight and too short and
with disabilities because of the use of assistive mobility necklines being too low. Participants who used wheel-
devices. If clothing is too long or too bulky, it can get chairs were often in a seated position. Because of this
caught in the assistive mobility device causing adoles- body positioning, teens explained their lower back and
cents to trip or fall. One participant explained: ‘I think buttocks could be exposed if shirts were too short and if
one thing to consider for people who use walkers is pants were cut too low at the waist. Low-cut shirts
that we would like to be able to wear dress pants/jeans posed a similar problem for these teens, since those
and like the wide leg look but they can be easily tripped standing above them could potentially see down the
over if too long. I get mine hemmed just a bit at the neckline of the shirt and view the bust. Pants were
bottom’. This is another example of the body, garment preferred to skirts or dresses to mask physical
and near environment relationship. characteristics of the legs that may deviate from the
Adolescents also reported adapting their clothing norm. This finding concurred with those of earlier
to meet their needs. An example of personal adapta- researchers (Kaiser et al. 1985, de Klerk and Ampousah
tion is the following: ‘I’m one handed. It was difficult 2002), and indicated the expressive clothing concerns of
to do zippers at first but it’s adaptable for example: women who used wheelchairs and/or assistive devices.
add a string to the end as it is easier to pull’. ‘I have all
[pants] altered. All buttons taken off and Velcro put on
instead’. These are just two examples of the need for 4.2.3. Aesthetic considerations
adolescents to adapt their clothing in order to remain Aesthetic responses were also limited in number;
independent and are also indicative of their needs not however, there were some responses that provided
being met. insights into the aesthetic preferences of adolescents
Understanding the relationship among body posi- (Table 4). Seven adolescents indicated that current
tion/garment/near environment (i.e. wheel chair) is fashionable designs were not suitable for their dis-
important in achieving user comfort and creating a abilities, while eight adolescents indicated that those
successful design. ‘I really like [dresses] that have a designs were not adaptable for their disabilities. Stylish
6 B. Stokes and C. Black

Table 4. Satisfaction with aesthetic considerations of adolescents, it could be concluded that the relationship
selected garments. among body/garment/assistive device involved func-
A B AþB tional, expressive and/or aesthetic considerations. This
relationship could usefully be investigated in future
Dissatisfied Neutral Satisfied
research.
Garment type f f f f %
Coat (n ¼ 23)
Selection 8 3 12 11 48.8 4.3. Application and modification of the FEA Model
Style 5 7 10 12 52.2
Dresses (n ¼ 13) The FEA Model not only provided the framework for
Selection 9 1 3 10 76.9 this study but was also a method for coding the
Style 6 2 5 8 61.5 qualitative data as functional, expressive or aesthetic.
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Pants (n ¼ 26) Using the FEA Model provided an understanding of the


Selection 15 1 10 16 61.5
Style 13 2 11 15 57.7 data and identified frequency in responses. The findings
Shirts (n ¼ 23) identified issues related to functional, expressive and
Selection 9 2 12 11 48.8 aesthetic considerations for future investigation.
Style 7 4 13 11 48.8 While user safety was not a functional considera-
Skirt (n ¼ 13)
Selection 5 3 5 8 61.5 tion in the FEA Model, it was identified as significant
Style 3 4 8 7 53.8 in the previous functional research. Clothing interacts
with the near environment such as assistive devices
including wheel chairs, walkers and crutches. In
addition to functional issues, clothing getting en-
tangled with a crutch or wheel could be embarrassing
jeans with alternative closures were desired by the for an adolescent, an expressive consideration.
adolescents but were not available in retail stores. There The coding process also identified relationships not
was a strong preference for specific clothing styles that found in the FEA Model. For example, the body/
met the adolescent needs in the past. When asked to garment relationship is considered an aesthetic con-
describe her dream coat, one participant had a very sideration by the FEA Model; however, the responses
specific description based on a garment she owned, ‘A provided by participants in the study of relevance to
brown pea coat with two buttons on the left side and the body/garment relationship were often a combina-
the openings on the right. I have a black one exactly like tion of functional, expressive and/or aesthetic. For
this and love it! I now want brown!’ Styles and aesthetic example, one participant described a coat that she was
details preferences varied among the participants de- dissatisfied with, post-purchase: ‘It’s a [bomber] jacket
monstrating a wide range personal style. The adoles- I don’t like the way it fits but it looks cool’. The fit of
cents also reported a desire for clothing to flatter their the jacket is functional, looking cool is expressive, and
bodies, illustrating the importance of body–garment the way the jacket looks or its style is aesthetic. The
relationship from an aesthetic standpoint. revised FEA Model emphasises interrelationship of
Assistive devices that are readily visible and cannot functional, expressive and aesthetic considerations
be camouflaged are considered external assistive (Figure 3). Previously, the model separated functional,
devices and a significant part of an adolescents’ overall expressive and aesthetic considerations with a solid
appearance. Assistive devices that can be concealed line. To emphasise the interrelationship among these
and go unnoticed can be referred to as internal three considerations, a dotted line replaces the solid
assistive devices. Respondents indicated that they line in the revised model.
could not find clothing that concealed their assistive The findings of this study illustrate that the body/
devices. One adolescent indicated that it was difficult garment relationship is a complex combination of
for her to find clothing to fit her pear shape figure and functional, expressive and aesthetic considerations. An
equally important was the need for high-waist pants important finding is the need to expand the role of the
that concealed her colostomy bag. This is just one body/garment relationship into the body/garment/near
example of the need for designers to consider the body/ environment relationship. Participants indicated var-
garment/near environment relationship and to balance ious occasions when garments were not successful due
functional and aesthetic characteristics when designing to interaction with assistive devices. One adolescent
for adolescents with physical disabilities. The impor- expressed this concern: ‘Typically pants I find are low
tance of designing aesthetically pleasing clothing rise and too long. [It is] difficult to find pants with a
cannot be over stated. Regardless of disability, waistline appropriate for my colostomy bag. Also hard
adolescents desire clothing that is cute, fashionable not to show my butt when sitting and my shirt rides
and stylish. Based on the issues reported by the up’. This example illustrates how the body/garment
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education 7
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Figure 2. Location of the adolescent girls (United States, Individual State Information n.d.).

5. Summary and conclusions


The findings of this study support the use of the FEA
Model for addressing design research issues. Findings
suggest that adolescents with disabilities are concerned
about functional, expressive and aesthetic considera-
tions. A higher number of functional considerations
were reported. There is a need for further investigation,
since consumer needs are not being met with currently
available clothing.
Specific functional considerations for designers and
future research are donning and doffing, inclusive of
the type and placement of fasteners, fit, mobility and
safety. The body/clothing/near environment relation-
ship identified the additional functional consideration
of safety. The body/garment/near environment also
revealed the need for designers to consider assistive
devises when designing.
Clothing that balances functional, expressive and
aesthetic needs of adolescent with disabilities does not
appear to be currently available. In addition to
Figure 3. Revised FEA Model. functional needs, designers and researchers need to
understand expressive needs of adolescents. Clothing
also needs to be designed with both fashion trends and
mobility issues of adolescents with disabilities in mind.
relationship needs to include the near environment for
designers to create successful designs. Rather than
being an aesthetic consideration, it is proposed that the 6. Future directions
body/garment relationship involves aspects of func- Information gained in the course of this study can be
tional, expressive and aesthetic considerations. It is applied to refining the FEA Model for future applica-
also proposed that near environment plays a role in the tions in the development of clothing for adolescents
body/garment relationship. The model has been with disabilities. Use of the FEA Model encourages the
redesigned with an outer ring that illustrates the generation of creative solutions in design by addressing
relationship of the body/garment/near environment. clothing needs reported by consumers.
8 B. Stokes and C. Black

The design issues identified by the participants Freeman, C.M., Kaiser, S.B., and Wingate, S.B., 1985–1986.
indicate the need for further investigation of the body/ Perceptions of functional clothing by persons with
physical disabilities: a social-cognitive framework. Cloth-
clothing/near environment relationship addressing ing and Textiles Research Journal, 4, 46–52.
functional, expressive and aesthetic considerations. Frescura, L.G., 1963. Clothing for girls with specified physical
Within the body/garment/near environment is the issue handicaps. Unpublished master’s thesis. Oregon State
of body positioning. Body positioning affects all University, Corvallis.
individuals with regard to mobility and comfort. Gamwell, A.M. and Joyce, F., 1966. A survey of problems of
clothing for the sick and disabled. London: The Disabled
Clothing on a standing figure does not fit or feel the Living Activities Group of the Central Council for the
same way as clothing on a seated figure, whether the Disabled.
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