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Article in International Journal of Fashion Design Technology and Education · November 2012
DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2012.700735
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To cite this article: Bailey Stokes & Catherine Black (2012): Application of the Functional, Expressive and Aesthetic
Consumer Needs Model: assessing the clothing needs of adolescent girls with disabilities, International Journal of Fashion
Design, Technology and Education, DOI:10.1080/17543266.2012.700735
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International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education
2012, 1–8, iFirst article
Application of the Functional, Expressive and Aesthetic Consumer Needs Model: assessing the
clothing needs of adolescent girls with disabilities
Bailey Stokesa* and Catherine Blackb
a
Apparel, Merchandising, Design and Textiles, Washington State University, PO Box 642020, Pullman 99164-2020, USA;
b
AMDT, Washington State University, Pullman 99163, USA
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The purpose of this study was to investigate clothing needs of adolescent girls with disabilities with the application of
the Functional, Expressive and Aesthetic (FEA) Consumer Needs Model (Lamb, J.M. and Kallal, M.J., 1992. A
conceptual framework for apparel design. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 10, 42–47). Survey data were
collected from 33 adolescent girls with disabilities. Functional, expressive and aesthetic considerations of the FEA
Model were used to analyse responses regarding satisfaction with specific garment types and general clothing needs.
While functional considerations were most often reported, adolescents also indicated a number of expressive and
aesthetic considerations. Regardless of their level of clothing interest, the common functional considerations
identified were issues with fit and difficulty donning and doffing including difficulty with garment fasteners. Safety
was not a consideration identified in the FEA Model but was identified by the adolescents as important when
considering their level of satisfaction. Based on the results of this study, recommendation for future applications of
the FEA Consumer Needs Model is presented.
Keywords: FEA Consumer Needs Model; disability; adolescents; functional design; needs assessment
mobility devices such as wheel chairs or crutches when Table 1. Disabilities and assistive mobility devices.
the body/garment/near environment interact. Based on Frequency (n ¼ 23)
the FEA Model and the review of literature, the
following research questions were developed to address Disabilities
the purpose of this study: Limited lower body use 13*
Limited upper body use 9
Hand dexterity impairment 14
(1) What is the level of satisfaction adolescent girls Incontinence 2
with disabilities have with functional consid- Other 10
Assistive mobility devices
erations of clothing identified by the FEA Electric wheelchair 6
Model? Manual wheelchair 4
(2) What is the level of satisfaction adolescent girls Prosthesis 1
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A B AþB
Too short/too small Appropriate Too long/too big
Garment type f f f No response f %
Coat (n ¼ 24)
Neckline 4 19 1 0 5 21
Waist length 2 15 5 1 7 32
Sleeve length 2 10 12 0 14 58
Armhole Circumference (CC) 5 10 4 0 9 47
Shoulder fit 5 10 8 1 13 57
Dresses (n ¼ 15)
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Neckline 2 6 5 2 7 54
Waist length 3 10 2 0 5 33
Sleeve length 1 7 7 0 8 53
Armhole CC 5 7 3 0 8 53
Shoulder fit 3 5 5 2 8 73
Length 4 2 7 2 11 85
Dress width 6 8 1 0 7 47
Pants (n ¼ 28)
Waist CC 12 9 5 2 17 65
Inseam length 3 6 18 1 21 78
Leg width 7 16 3 2 10 38
Shirt (n ¼ 24)
Neckline 6 9 7 2 13 59
Waist length 11 10 3 0 14 58
Sleeve length 2 7 8 7 10 71
Armhole CC 5 18 1 0 6 25
Shoulder fit 4 11 9 0 13 54
Skirt (n ¼ 15)
Waist CC 3 9 3 0 6 40
Length 6 5 4 0 10 67
Skirt width 4 10 1 0 5 33
at least a few if not several inches. With the flared leg comfort. ‘I like bootcut jeans especially if they are
or ‘‘bell-bottom’’ style, this doesn’t work. [I] have to stretchy because they are fashionable but are also more
buy pants in women’s petite which is not always very comfortable than skinny jeans or straight leg jeans’,
stylish’. Shirt, skirt and dress length were also explained one participant.
identified as either too long or too short by 45.8%, Mobility considerations were often related to the
66% and 84.6% of respondents, respectively. In constraint of arms and legs. Bulky coats were difficult
addition to issues with length, armhole circumference to wear due to restrictive movement. One participant
(53%) and shoulder fit of dresses were too narrow or explained why she does not wear jackets: ‘Too bulky
too wide for many respondents (56%). More than 50% and [arm] mobility needed’.
of the participants indicated that they found coat Ease of donning and doffing garments also
sleeves too long and shoulder widths either too narrow involved mobility considerations, both gross and fine
or too wide. Designers and researchers need to assess motor skills. Difficulties with donning and doffing were
both static and dynamic clothing fit. Assessing clothing often related to style or placement of fasteners which
when an individual is sitting, standing and lying would were reported as difficult to manipulate for each
be considered static fit, while dynamic fit refers to garment type. Donning and doffing issues were
assessing clothing when an individual is performing an consistent with the findings of Shannon and Reich
activity. (1979). Adolescents were asked to describe changes
Comfort considerations were related to poor fit and they would make to a coat they bought but did not
excessive fabric bulk when sitting. Comfort was like, 42% of responses included fastener changes. Only
expressed by one participant who used a wheelchair. two participants felt that fasteners on shirts were easy
She stated: ‘It is hard to have the fabric pulling on your to use. Open-ended responses revealed just how
back or just having all that fabric bunched behind your difficult fasteners were for the adolescents to manip-
back’. While this comment addressed an issue with ulate due to limited hand dexterity. For example,
long coats, the same would be true of any long ‘[A skirt] with too many buttons is really frustrating to
garment. Specific styles of pants were also preferred for get on and off. If a piece of clothing is a hassle, I won’t
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education 5
wear it’. The finding concurred with those of Gamwell wrap around band that can be tied in the front or a
and Joyce (1966), who reported that the most frequent zipper on the side as opposed to the back’, stated one
problem found when selecting suitable garments was participant.
difficulty with fasteners. Elastic waistbands, snaps and
Velcro1 were identified as suitable alternatives to
buttons and zippers. One adolescent said: ‘I need 4.2.2. Expressive considerations
elastic waists and there are no cute pants like that’. Although responses to open-ended questions were
Another adolescent indicated: ‘[I] have not been able to primarily related to functional considerations, expres-
find ANY pants in teen departments that have elastic sive considerations brought up a number of issues too.
waists, therefore, we can’t buy them or have to have Self-esteem and insecurity issues were raised as reasons
the waist completely remade, very expensive!’ This for not wearing skirts and pants. The potential for
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finding concurred with the results of research by de people to see up skirts when sitting was raised.
Klerk and Ampousah (2002) who reported that 76% of Respondents reported they were ashamed of the
the participants in their study indicated a preference appearance of their legs as a reason for not wearing
for elastic waistbands. skirts. ‘[I have] insecurity problems with my skinny
The respondents indicated that the donning of legs’, stated one participant. Another shared, ‘My mom
coats (52%), pants (69%) and shirts (49%) were more says I’m not lady like enough to wear [dresses]. Plus it is
problematic than doffing of each garment type, too hard to do my colostomy bag cares with a dress
respectively (coats 49%, pants 65% and shirts 43%). unless I take it all the way off’. Getting clothing caught
While donning and doffing has been previously under a crutch or wheel could not only result in injury
reported as an issue, no research reports indicated but was also reported as embarrassing in that it affected
the differences in the levels of difficulty associated with self-esteem. Reasons for not wearing skirts reflected
donning and doffing. This finding needs further problems with social aspects of clothing which are
investigation to identify reasons for the differences. important for designers to consider when developing
To improve ease of donning and doffing, designers apparel. Research has shown that a garment may be
need to consider the placement and type of fasteners functional but if it does not ‘fit in’ or if it makes the
in light of fine motor skills of adolescents with person look like they have a disability the garment will
disabilities. not be adopted (Freeman et al. 1985–1986).
A functional consideration identified in the current The lack of modest clothing available in junior
study but not identified in the FEA Model was safety. departments was reported. Expressive considerations
Safety is an important consideration for adolescents included garments being too tight and too short and
with disabilities because of the use of assistive mobility necklines being too low. Participants who used wheel-
devices. If clothing is too long or too bulky, it can get chairs were often in a seated position. Because of this
caught in the assistive mobility device causing adoles- body positioning, teens explained their lower back and
cents to trip or fall. One participant explained: ‘I think buttocks could be exposed if shirts were too short and if
one thing to consider for people who use walkers is pants were cut too low at the waist. Low-cut shirts
that we would like to be able to wear dress pants/jeans posed a similar problem for these teens, since those
and like the wide leg look but they can be easily tripped standing above them could potentially see down the
over if too long. I get mine hemmed just a bit at the neckline of the shirt and view the bust. Pants were
bottom’. This is another example of the body, garment preferred to skirts or dresses to mask physical
and near environment relationship. characteristics of the legs that may deviate from the
Adolescents also reported adapting their clothing norm. This finding concurred with those of earlier
to meet their needs. An example of personal adapta- researchers (Kaiser et al. 1985, de Klerk and Ampousah
tion is the following: ‘I’m one handed. It was difficult 2002), and indicated the expressive clothing concerns of
to do zippers at first but it’s adaptable for example: women who used wheelchairs and/or assistive devices.
add a string to the end as it is easier to pull’. ‘I have all
[pants] altered. All buttons taken off and Velcro put on
instead’. These are just two examples of the need for 4.2.3. Aesthetic considerations
adolescents to adapt their clothing in order to remain Aesthetic responses were also limited in number;
independent and are also indicative of their needs not however, there were some responses that provided
being met. insights into the aesthetic preferences of adolescents
Understanding the relationship among body posi- (Table 4). Seven adolescents indicated that current
tion/garment/near environment (i.e. wheel chair) is fashionable designs were not suitable for their dis-
important in achieving user comfort and creating a abilities, while eight adolescents indicated that those
successful design. ‘I really like [dresses] that have a designs were not adaptable for their disabilities. Stylish
6 B. Stokes and C. Black
Table 4. Satisfaction with aesthetic considerations of adolescents, it could be concluded that the relationship
selected garments. among body/garment/assistive device involved func-
A B AþB tional, expressive and/or aesthetic considerations. This
relationship could usefully be investigated in future
Dissatisfied Neutral Satisfied
research.
Garment type f f f f %
Coat (n ¼ 23)
Selection 8 3 12 11 48.8 4.3. Application and modification of the FEA Model
Style 5 7 10 12 52.2
Dresses (n ¼ 13) The FEA Model not only provided the framework for
Selection 9 1 3 10 76.9 this study but was also a method for coding the
Style 6 2 5 8 61.5 qualitative data as functional, expressive or aesthetic.
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Figure 2. Location of the adolescent girls (United States, Individual State Information n.d.).
The design issues identified by the participants Freeman, C.M., Kaiser, S.B., and Wingate, S.B., 1985–1986.
indicate the need for further investigation of the body/ Perceptions of functional clothing by persons with
physical disabilities: a social-cognitive framework. Cloth-
clothing/near environment relationship addressing ing and Textiles Research Journal, 4, 46–52.
functional, expressive and aesthetic considerations. Frescura, L.G., 1963. Clothing for girls with specified physical
Within the body/garment/near environment is the issue handicaps. Unpublished master’s thesis. Oregon State
of body positioning. Body positioning affects all University, Corvallis.
individuals with regard to mobility and comfort. Gamwell, A.M. and Joyce, F., 1966. A survey of problems of
clothing for the sick and disabled. London: The Disabled
Clothing on a standing figure does not fit or feel the Living Activities Group of the Central Council for the
same way as clothing on a seated figure, whether the Disabled.
figure is driving a car or using wheelchair. Rather than Horn, M.J., 1981. The second skin: an interdisciplinary study
assessing clothing when individuals are in static of clothing. Boston, MA: Houghton Mifflin.
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postural positions such as standing and sitting, Individual State Information, n.d. United States [Map,
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