Learn to sew with

EIGHT FREE
patterns inside – our gift to you!

Including expert
guides and advice on:
Learn the right way
to measure yourself
Sew your first project Quick & fun
with our in-depth
tutorials HANDBAG
Master all the settings
on your sewing
machine
Learn to decode a
sewing pattern

Sizes
6-22
Exclusive
OFFER
INSIDE
Try us today,
3 issues for
just £6!
Easy unisex Breezy summer
ROBE BLOUSE
LS.E-book_01.indd 1 19/02/2019 15:35
 21

Inside this
GUIDE ESSENTIAL GUIDES Asymmetric
3
4
Welcome
Master your machine
draped top
6 Taking measurements
8 How to read a pattern
9 Essential stitch settings
10 Achieve the perfect fit
12 Pattern picks

PROJECTS
14 Roomy shoulder bag
16 Free as a bird blouse
18 Unisex kimono
21 Japanese style top
24 Luxe jumpsuit Three issues for
just £6 when you
28 Drapey knit dress
subscribe to
31 Sausage dog soft toy Love Sewing –
32 Men’s classic t-shirt see page 35 for
further info

18
31

32

28

Find us online
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

search lovesewingmag

12

LS.E-book_02.indd 2 19/02/2019 15:35

 Meet the
… to Love Sewing's TEAM
Learn to Sew eBook

H
ello and thank you for downloading this
mini eBook! We're so excited to hear
you're keen to learn to sew and we want
to help you get started on your sewing journey. Amy
In this mini magazine you'll find helpful guides EDITOR
for getting to grips with your machine, beginner Amy loves both sewing
- friendly dressmaking patterns, learning to and publishing so this
measure yourself and how to get a great fitting is her perfect job and
garment! All the she hopes to inspire
important elements you in every issue. Her
to completing your creativity is contagious,
first project. There's see more on her
a cheat sheet to help Instagram account
you decode pattern almondrock_sews
instructions plus
we've included a
whopping eight
FREE projects for
you to download and
practice your
new skills.

Buy back issues at
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk/backissues
So what are we
Lorna
waiting for? Let's dive
right in!
DEPUTY EDITOR
Lorna has buckets of
enthusiasm for
dressmaking, embroidery
and making magazines.
She's excited to see your
makes so remember to
send them to letters@
lovesewingmag.co.uk

Make this top

on page 16

Nicola
ART EDITOR
Nicola is passionate about
design and has a sharp
eye for detail. She loves
creating new illustrations
and takes her inspiration
from her home town,

Master your machine

Manchester.
See more on her
Instagram
on page 4 calico_creative

LS.E-book_03.indd 3 19/02/2019 15:36


MATERIALS & TOOLS
• 20x12” fabric
• scrap of contrasting fabric
• scrap of plain fabric
• toy stuffing
HOW TO MAKE:
 Fold the larger piece of
fabric in half and pin the
templates for the side section
and ear to it. Use the fabric
economically to make sure
there is enough left over for
the belly. Cut around each
template to give two side
pieces and two earpieces.
 Pin the template for the
belly section to the remaining
fabric (now unfolded) and cut
it out. Cut two more ear pieces
from contrasting fabric.
 To make a label, cut a strip
measuring 1½x4” from plain
fabric. Fold it in half, WST,
short edge to short edge, and
draw on the shape of a bone,
positioned centrally and ¼”
from the foldline. Sew over the
drawn shape using a whipped
backstitch. The stitches are
very small, so you will only
need two of the six strands of
embroidery thread. Be sure to
stitch through the top layer of
the label only.
 Re-fold the label with right
sides facing and sew down
each long side with a ¼” seam
LS.E-book_31.indd 31
Sausage dog
allowance. Leave the short end
open. Turn the right way out
and press. (See Pic A.)
 Take two ear pieces, one
from each fabric pattern. With
right sides facing, pin and
sew all around the ear with a
½” seam allowance using a
contrasting colour. Leave the
straight edge open. Trim the
seam, turn the right way out
and press. (See Pic B.)
 With RST, pin the belly piece
to one side piece, matching
up the legs and aligning the
raw edges. Place the label
in position, sandwiching it
ABOUT
THE BOOK
A Year in Crafts, by Clare Youngs,
and priced £14.99 (CICO Books)
We love
GIFTS
SOFT TOY
This simple pattern
makes a charming
little softie, or even
a cute pincushion!
Project CLARE YOUNGS
A
between the two pieces of
fabric. It should be just below
the center of the tail end, with
the label facing into the inside
of the dog and the bone image
facing down. Make sure that
the raw edges poke out by 1/8” B
beyond the edge of the dog’s
body. Sew a seam from the
centre of the belly piece at the
tail end, all the way along the
lower edge, around the legs
and up to the point at
the front. C
 With the WS of the side
piece flat on the table, fold the
belly piece in half and pin the
second side piece to it, right
sides facing and legs aligned.
Sew a seam all the way around D
this side of the belly piece,
ending at the point at the
front. (See Pic C.)
 Pin and sew the top edges
of the side pieces together,
placing the ears in position at
the same time. The contrasting
fabric should face out and E
extend down into the inside of
the dog’s body, at the end of end of a small paintbrush to
the curve of the head. The raw turn out the tail. Stuff with toy
edges should stick out beyond stuffing, using the brush again
the seam by 1/8”. When sewing, to help. (See Pic E.)
leave a short gap along the  Use small stitches to sew
straight edge of the dog’s back up the gap in the seam. Sew a
for stuffing. (See Pic D.) bullion knot on either side of
 Trim the seam and turn the the head for the eyes.
dog through. Use the handle
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 31
19/02/2019 15:45

MACHINE
Each machine model offers a range of features and functions, but all
have the fundamental elements in common. Use this handy guide
and you’ll know your way around yours in no time.
THREAD GUIDES
 Two threads make up each
stitch – the top thread and the
bobbin thread. The top thread
from the spool of cotton
passes through the thread
guide, which regulates the
tension of the thread before
it’s fed through the needle.
SPEED CONTROLLER
 A slider that sets the
speed the machine will work
at when the pedal is pressed,
allowing control and precision
when sewing.
REVERSE FUNCTION
 Use this to set the machine
working in a reverse direction,
to move backwards across
a stitched line. This function
is used when securing the
threads at the start and end of
a line of stitching.
NEEDLE AND
NEEDLE CLAMP
 The needle is removable
to allow you to select from a
variety of types and sizes to
suit your project. The needle
is held in place by the clamp.
Most machines include a tool
for tightening and loosening
the clamp to access the needle.
PRESSER FOOT LIFTER
 For lifting and lowering to
hold the fabric in place while
you sew. Release it to remove
the fabric from the machine.
4 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
LS.E-book_04.indd 4
Master your
1
9
BOBBIN CASE
 Inside the removable cover
is the bobbin case, which
houses the bobbin. The bobbin
is wound with thread and
provides the second thread
for each stitch.
19
FEED DOGS
 These moving parts lie
underneath the needle plate.
With spiked teeth that protrude
from the opening, these help
to move the fabric through 3
the machine.
NEEDLE PLATE
 The metal plate directly Wide angle white 18
below the needle and presser LED lighting
foot. The small opening allows
the thread from the bobbin to
pass through while the needle
enters to make the stitches.
On the plate are guide
4
markings to assist straight
sewing and measure
seam allowances.
PRESSER FOOT 5
PRESSURE DIAL 16 8
 Used for releasing/ 7
increasing the weight
of the foot on the
6
fabric, for example
when working
appliqué. You can
release the pressure to
enable you to turn the
Top tip!
fabric smoothly.
17
If you're struggling with
the threading on a new
machine, practise with red
thread until you get
the hang of it
19/02/2019 15:37
 Trouble with tension? BOBBIN WINDER
Winds thread from the cotton spool onto
Check that both the machine and bobbin are correctly threaded. the bobbin, ensuring that the thread is fed
If these aren't exactly right, this can cause incorrect tension. Also evenly onto the bobbin and maintains the
check that the thread on the bobbin is wound correctly. If it's too correct tension.
tight or too loose, it won't feed through the machine and make
even stitches. Another good tip is to use the same thread in the SPOOL HOLDER
machine and the bobbin – even slightly different thread can This pin runs through the centre of a
unbalance the tension spool of thread, allowing it to feed smoothly
through the machine.

SCREEN
Displays the relevant information
10 regarding the stitch style, width and length
11 that has been selected.

HAND WHEEL
Manually operates the mechanics of
the machine, moving the needle up and
12 down and engaging the feed dogs. Newer,
computerised machines also have a needle
up/down button which can be programmed
to stay in the down position – ideal for
13 pivoting on corners.
2
STITCH SELECTOR
Allows you to select from the different
stitches on the machine and includes a
menu from which you make your selection.
15 The stitch is selected by pressing the relevant
button and the number will appear on
the screen.

STITCH LENGTH AND STITCH

WIDTH SELECTORS
Use to increase or decrease the length or
width of your stitch. The shorter the stitch,
the more stitches are worked across the
line of sewing, making it stronger. The width
applies to stitches where the needle moves
from left to right, such as a zigzag stitch.
14
Adjusting the width button will also move
the needle position, which is important when
sewing in zips and piping etc.

FREE ARM
This is a narrower working space
created when the accessory box is removed.
This is perfect for sewing smaller items or
inserting sleeves.

ACCESSORY DRAWER
Use to store alternative presser feet, spare
bobbins and maintenance tools.

START/STOP BUTTON
This allows you to operate the machine
without the foot pedal.

THREAD CUT BUTTON

This will cut the thread after sewing and
Easy Set Bobbin is highlighted in the screen with the thread
cutter mark.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 5

LS.E-book_04.indd 5 19/02/2019 15:37

 Taking
ASK THE
EXPERTS

measurements
A well-fitting garment starts with accurate
measurements! Don’t worry over the numbers,
the finished garment is guaranteed to make
you feel 10/10

O
ne thing I am constantly
asked by students is to take
their body measurements.
Measuring yourself is not as easy as
it may seem, and so often you require
more than bust, waist and hips.

The first thing you need is good-fitting

underwear! Your bra is all-important
– it must fit properly, as this will be
the foundation for your garments. If
necessary, get remeasured and treat
yourself to something new. The same
applies to knickers – don’t measure
wearing knickers that hold everything
in, if you're not going to wear these all
the time.

You will need a friend to help now.

The next stage is to stand in front of a
full-length mirror in your underwear
– scary! Analyse your figure, are your
hips wider than your shoulders? Turn
sideways and check your posture,
do you have a sway back, round
shoulders, a tummy? Honesty really
is the best policy.

Top tip!
Well-fitting underwear
is extremely important
when taking your
measurements

6 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS.E-book_06.indd 6 19/02/2019 15:38

 Now it’s time to measure. Place a simple
chain necklace around your neck and then
take some elastic and tie it around your
waist, it must be snug and the elastic will
find your narrowest point. Also tie some
elastic around your hips, the widest part,
and another piece under your arms and
over the top of your bust. With the help of
a friend, measure around the elastic at the
waist, hip and over bust. Use centimetres,
they are more accurate. The tape measure
Measuring
yourself is not
as easy as it
may seem, and
so often you
require more
than bust, waist
and hips
needs to be snug but not tight. You also need
the full bust measurement over the fullest
part of your bust. While the elastic is still in
place, measure the distance from your waist
Measure your straight
and bent arm and
consider range of movement
LS.E-book_06.indd 7
Measure your waist at its
narrowest point
to hip, where the side seam would fall, and
then measure from the waist to where your
finished skirt length would fall. Measure also
the back waist, from the chain around your
neck, down your spine to the waist elastic.
We are not finished yet!
A neck measurement is useful – using the
line of the necklace to help, measure around
the neck, so the tape measure meets at the CF
where those two little bones are. A shoulder
measurement is also required and this can
be done by measuring from the necklace to
the dimple at the shoulder/arm joint (this
can be difficult to find). An easier way is to
put on a tight-fitting T shirt with a set-in
sleeve and making sure the armhole seam
is sitting where the end of the shoulder is.
The seam should be vertical, not sloping Find the dimple at your
down the arm or pulling in toward the neck. shoulder point for an
Once you are happy with the armhole seam accurate measurement
you can measure the shoulder. Whilst the
tight T-shirt is in place, measure also across
the chest and above the bust from armhole
seam to armhole seam – this is the chest
measurement. Take the same measurement
across the back from armhole to armhole –
ABOUT
this is the back width. ALISON SMITH
You now have a great set of body
measurements to help you choose your
Awarded an MBE for her services to
pattern size and make any pattern dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert
adjustments necessary. Just remember that in classic couture and a published
5cm of ease over your body measurements is author. Alison has her own shop and line
the best, especially at the bust and hip, and of patterns, and you can also learn with
2.5cm is best at the waist. Alison at one of her exclusive
workshops. Find out more on her site
Good luck!
www.schoolofsewing.co.uk
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 7
19/02/2019 15:38

Claire-Louise Hardie
PATTERN CUTTING LINE
Each line relates to a different size for the
garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on
a pattern sheet so you can either follow
a single cutting line throughout or blend
carefully between sizes to achieve a
better fit.
Shows you how to...
READ A PATTERN
CIRCLE DOTS
These marks indicate construction details,
such as zipper position, pleating, or the
end-of-stitching line, as set out in the
instructions. Some pattern companies
will use triangles or squares in place of
circle dots.
GRAINLINE
The arrow on the pattern piece must be
‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric
BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
so that it can hang, move and stretch
The placement for a button is
correctly. The grainline must always be
marked with an X. The placement
parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished
for a buttonhole is marked with
edges) of the fabric.
an edged line.

TUCKS/PLEATS
PLACE ON FOLD LINE
Transfer any tuck lines marked on the
This edge of the pattern piece is to be
pattern pieces to the RS (right side) of
placed on the fold of your fabric, making
the garment. Follow directional arrows
it easy to cut out a mirror image at the
where given.
same time.

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS
These explain how to lay each piece onto
the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces
will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on
the envelope. Remember to follow along
with the correct view and size. Don’t
forget to take care with directional prints;
you wouldn’t want a floral-print top with
all the flowers upside down.
DARTS
Parts of the fabric to be folded for
shaping, usually located at the bust,
waist and neck.
NOTCHES
Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at
each notch location, within the seam
allowance. These marks are used to
match pieces together before sewing.
LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE
This indicates exactly where to
shorten or lengthen the pattern
piece or garment to make changes
for improved fit.
ABBREVIATIONS
SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE)
Every project you sew has a set seam
allowance. This is the distance between
where you sew and the raw edge of
the fabric – essentially an invisible line
around each pattern piece. These lines
are occasionally included on vintage
patterns. You must sew at the seam
allowance in order for the pieces to
line up correctly. Most commonly this
is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in
case smaller allowances are being used.
Sewing machines have marks for the
seam allowance to the right side of
the presser foot.
RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT)
Instructions for placing right sides of
fabric together will be written as RST.
WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK)
Instructions for fusing interfacing to
the wrong side of fabric will be written
as WST.

LS.E-book_08.indd 8 19/02/2019 15:38

 ESSENTIAL STITCH SETTINGS
Zigzag finish Pinking shears finish Topstitched finish

(WS) (WS) (WS)

French seam first seam

allowance
Overlocker finish

the centre fold

(WS) of the first seam
becomes the
outside edge

Hong Kong finish

stitch seam fold over then stitch
allowance only in the ditch
bias tape

first seam
allowance

the centre fold

of the first seam
becomes the
outside edge

LS.E-book_08.indd 9 19/02/2019 15:39

 ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT
BUST ADJUSTMENTS A B

First, you need to work out how much

additional space you require around the
bust or what you’d like to remove. Here is
a helpful chart to work out the amount:
1/3
1 1
2
apex
Small Full bust
bust example 2
example
Full bust
33” 38”
measurement
3
3
High bust
32” 35”
measurement
Difference
1” 3”
C D
1/2” SBA = 11/2” FBA
Adjustment half the = half the
difference difference

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D) 1

2
 Lay the tissue pattern against yourself
to establish where your bust point is. Mark
onto the pattern with a cross.
 Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical
line from the marked point to the hem.
3
Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline
on the pattern.
 From this line, draw a second line up
towards the armhole, hitting the lower third
of the armhole. Together, these lines are
called Line 1.
You’ll notice that your dart has now spread been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third
 Draw a second line horizontally through apart too and become bigger. line you drew and overlap until your hem
the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 is level.
 The lower edge of your hem no longer
at the bust point.
meets at the bottom, as the side that has
 Draw a third horizontal line a little been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third
E
above the hem between Line 1 and the line you drew and spread apart until your
centre front of the pattern. hem is level.

 Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the
armhole, making sure not to cut all the
way through the armhole. Leave a hinge
so you can pivot the paper. The point of
the dart has now swung away from its
original position.
 Cut through the line in the middle of
Fill in the spaces created with tracing
paper and stick into place.
SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E)
 Draw in the lines as per an FBA
adjustment. This is essentially the same
process in reverse. lap

the dart, again leave a little hinge at the

tip of the dart so you can pivot.
 Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so
they’ve been spread apart by the amount
of your FBA. The edges should be parallel.
 Swing the darted side of the
pattern across the other side by the
desired SBA amount.
 The lower edge of the hem no longer
meets at the bottom, as the side that has

LS.E-book_08.indd 10 19/02/2019 15:39

 BACK ADJUSTMENTS
A B C D
Some patterns will come with an
adjustment line for a narrow or broad back
drawn on. If your pattern doesn’t, you can
easily do this yourself.

NARROW BACK (FIGS A-C)

 Draw a vertical line down from the
shoulder, 3cm from the armhole, to just
below the bottom of the armhole. Draw
a second line at a right angle from
this point.
 Cut along the two lines, and slide the
armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick
in place. A small ¼” adjustment is often
enough. Play around with this amount as
you develop your fitting skills.
 Use a ruler and pencil to true up and
re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam.
Because we have only adjusted the upper
back, the fit should remain the same
around the waist. (See the orange lines
on Fig B.)
 You’ll now need to make the front
shoulder width a little shorter. Line up
the notches on the shoulder ensuring the
neckline is lined up. The front width will be
a little longer than the newly adjusted back
shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from
the back around the front, trimming a little
of the front armhole away. Don’t forget to
make sure your new curved line is smooth
at the shoulder.
BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT ensuring the neckline is aligned. Draw a
(FIGS D AND E) curved line from the back shoulder down
towards the front armhole, adding a sliver
 Start in the same way as a narrow back to the front shoulder and armhole. Check
adjustment drawing the two lines and
that you’ve drawn a smooth line over
cutting along them. the shoulder.
 Instead of overlapping the cut pattern
pieces, spread them. As before there are E
no hard and fast rules, but with a broad
back a ¼-½” adjustment is about right. Fill
in the space with some tracing paper and
stick together.
 Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and
re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam.
(See the orange lines on Fig D.)
 This time you’ll need to make the front
shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow
adjustment, line up the shoulder seams,

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT A B

SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A)

Working at 90˚ to the grain, make

corresponding tucks across the front
and back bodice, at bust and below
armhole. Make corresponding tucks across
the front and back of skirt below the hips.
For sleeves, shorten above and below the
elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve.

LENGTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B)

Working at 90˚ to the grain, cut across
the front and back bodice, at bust and
below armhole. Cut across the front and
back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves,
cut above and below the elbow, avoiding
the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern
pieces as required and fill the spaces with
scrap paper.
A BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A)
To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from
the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist,
indicated by the dotted line.
To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the
waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to
the required size.

LS.E-book_08.indd 11 19/02/2019 15:39

 PATTERN

SIMPLY
marvellous We've rounded up our favourite
beginner-friendly designs from
Simple Sew patterns!

Annabelle
dress
This easy-fit dress
features a gathered
waist and bust
with a flattering
inset waistband.
Raglan sleeves
and eye-catching
neckline detail
means there are
exciting new
techniques to try.
You'll want to
wear Annabelle
to work, dinner
with friends and
special occasions.
Priced £10

Classic pencil skirt

This skirt is actually part of a double pattern
pack. The Duo of Skirts can each be made
in your own style. Choose from the ever-
so-glamorous pencil skirt or the relaxed,
contemporary tie-waisted skirt. Priced £10

Simple Sew is a fantastic UK-based pattern brand featuring modern designs and a great size
range of 6-20. Visit www.simplesewpatterns.com to discover the full collection.

LS.E-book_12.indd 12 19/02/2019 15:39

 Zoe tunic
dress and top
The clean lines
and simple construction
of this utilitarian-inspired,
easy-to-make dress/top
pattern makes for a very
Lottie blouse subtle, on-trend style
You'll love this easy-fit top with neckline statement. Add extra detail
bow and loose sleeves. Make in floaty with contrast stitching!
fabric and it's perfect to wear with jeans Priced £10
at the weekend or to the office. The
Lottie Blouse and Skirt Combo also
includes a classic pencil skirt, creating
an instant outfit! Priced £10

Lena wrap
dress Classic
There are no
tricky closures
palazzo
to deal with on pants
this dress and These gorgeous
the wrap bodice trousers are
is fully lined. An classically styled
inset waistband with a centre-back
and skirt border zip, waistband (that
allow you to play sits on the natural
with colour and waist) and two easy
print blocking. side-seam pockets.
Plus you can You can make the
choose from three trousers longer or
sleeve lengths shorter depending
and an optional on your height by
lace overlay to adjusting the length
personalise your at the shorten or
dress. Priced £10 lengthen line on the
pattern. Priced £10

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 13

LS.E-book_12.indd 13 19/02/2019 15:40

 We love
BAGS

CARRY
on regardless
This shoulder bag is roomy enough for all the
essentials of daily life and you can show off
MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• FQ main fabric your personality with fun fabric choices!
• FQ contrast fabric
• FQ plain cotton fabric for lining Project SUSIE JOHNS
• 32x16” (80x40cm)
medium-weight fusible interfacing
• 32x16” (80x40cm) heavyweight
fusible interfacing A B C
• 32x16” (80x40cm) fusible fleece
• 3 yards (2.75m) 1” (25mm)-wide
cotton webbing
• co-ordinating thread
• templates downloaded from
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES:
Finished size approximately:
8¾x12½x3” (22x32x7.5cm) D E F

The bag is designed to make the most

of three contrasting fat quarters, with
minimum wastage. You will need a
whole fat quarter of the main fabric
and the lining, but the gusset and
pocket could be cut from leftovers

HOW TO MAKE:
 Use the templates to cut
out the back and front of the
bag from the main fabric.
Cut two gusset pieces, each
measuring 15x4” (38x10cm),
from contrasting fabric.
 Fold the contrasting fabric
in half. Place the pocket
template on the fold, then cut
out a pocket. Cut a bag back
and front, and a gusset from
plain fabric as well.
 Cut the medium-weight
fusible interfacing using the
bag front and back template.
Cut one pocket piece, folding
the interfacing and placing
the pattern piece on the fold.
Also cut one piece measuring
28¾x4” (73x10cm), for
the gusset.
 Join two short ends of the
two gusset pieces of the lining
fabric with a 3⁄8” (1cm) seam.
Press the seam flat. Using a
hot iron, apply the interfacing
to the WS of the gusset lining.
Apply the interfacing to the WS
of the back and front lining,
and to the pocket.
 Cut two pieces of
heavyweight interfacing,
using the bag front and back
template. Apply this interfacing
to the WS of the main fabric
pieces, using a hot iron.
 Cut two pieces of fusible
fleece, using the inner guideline
on the template, and place this of the gusset. Cut a 28x31⁄8”
on top. Fuse in place. (71x8cm) piece of fusible
 Join the two gusset pieces fleece and place this on top.
in contrast fabric with a 3⁄8” Fuse in place.
(1cm) seam. Press the seam  Fold the pocket in half
open. Cut a 28¾x4” (73x10cm) along the fold line with WST
piece of heavyweight fusible and stitch around all the sides
interfacing and apply to the WS 3⁄16” (5mm) from the edge.
Lorna says...
You could embroider a
monogram on the front
patch pocket for a fun
personal touch!

14 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS.E-book_14.indd 14 19/02/2019 15:40


 Pin the pocket to one of
the main pieces (which will be
the front of the bag), placing
it centrally, with the lower raw
edge lined up with the bottom
edge of the bag. Baste by
hand or machine down both
sides and along the lower
edge of the pocket, within the
seam allowance. (See Pic A.)
Cut two 40” (1m) lengths
of webbing. Pin and baste
one piece to the front and
one piece to the back of the
bag, to form handles. Line up
the ends with the bag base,
and overlap the pocket on
the front by 3⁄8” (1cm) with the
inner edge of the webbing.
LS.E-book_14.indd 15
Place a pin across the
width of the webbing 2” (5cm)
below the bag's top edge.
Top-stitch close to the long
edges and across the width at
the points marked by the pins.
Remove the basting and
top-stitch again, 3⁄16” (5mm)
inside the first stitch line,
to hold the straps firmly in
place. (See Pic B.)
Pin the gusset to the front
and back of the bag, easing
the fabric around the corners.
Baste, then stitch with a ½"
(1.25cm) seam. (See Pic C.)
Snip into the seam
allowance on the curved
corners. (See Pic D.)
Top tip
Pick two fabrics
from the same
collection if you're
unsure about pairing
mixed prints
Join the lining gusset
to the lining back and front
in the same way. Snip
ABOUT
the seam allowance on THE BOOK
the curved corners. Slip
the lining inside the bag,
with WST. (See Pic E.)
Line up the seams,
then baste the top edges
together either by hand or
machine. Fold the remaining
webbing in half lengthways
and use to bind the top edge,
pinning then basting in place.
Top-stitch close to the lower Fat Quarter Bags & Purses, by
edge of the binding, and Susie Johns, £12.99
again 1⁄8” (3mm) above www.thegmcgroup.com
this stitch line to finish.
(See Pic F.)
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 15
19/02/2019 15:40
 We love
STYLE

Free as a
BIRD The Tania top is a
great way to make
a breezy summer
blouse and
practise your bias-
binding skills
Project CLAIRE GARSIDE

16 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS.E-book_16.indd 16 19/02/2019 15:41

 SIZING CHART
6 8 10
BUST 37 38” 391⁄2"
HIP 37” 38” 391⁄2"
MATERIALS & TOOLS
• 1.5m light or
medium-weight fabric
• 50cm-square piece of fabric if
making contrast bias
• co-ordinating thread
• bias binding maker tool
• templates downloaded from
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS
• Light to mid-weight cotton,
lawn, viscose, crepe and silk
work best. Lace and chiffon can
also be suitable if French seam
construction is used
• Allow extra fabric for
one-way designs
A B
LS.E-book_16.indd 17
12 14 16 18
401⁄2" 421⁄2" 441⁄2" 461⁄2"
401⁄2" 421⁄2" 441⁄2" 461⁄2"
HOW TO MAKE:
 Create bias binding by
cutting 4cm-wide strips on
the bias. Sew together at right
angles with diagonal seams.
You will need approximately
1.6m for the ties and keyhole.
You can always make extra if
you’d like to bind the armholes
instead of using sleeves.
 Sew the bust darts on
the bodice front and press
downwards. (See Pic A.)
 Place the front and back
bodices RST and sew at the
shoulder seams. Press the
seams open. (See Pic B.)
Repeat for the side seams. On
the WS of the keyhole pin the
RS of your small bias binding
piece around the opening
LAYPLAN
20 22
481⁄2" 51”
481⁄2" 51”
and sew at the first fold. Fold If making a sleeveless top,
over along the centre crease to sew bias binding around the
enclose the raw edge and top- armholes also.
stitch on the RS.  With RST fold
 Mark the centre one sleeve in half,
Top tip
point of your and sew the side
long bias piece seam. (See Pic
and on the D.) Press the
WS of the
Before making your seam open.
centre back Repeat for
align the
bias binding, spray the other
RS of the your square of fabric sleeve. Sew
bias with the with starch for the sleeve in
raw edge and greater control place within
pin all around. the armhole by
Sew along the first placing them RST
crease; this will leave and using gathering
approximately 40cm unsewn stitches to ease the
at each end. sleeve in if necessary.
 Fold over the short ends by  Turn up the sleeve hem
1cm then fold over the bias (you should have overlocked
as you did with the keyhole or zigzag-stitched the raw
to the RS so it encloses the hem edge already as a part
seam allowance. On the RS, of your general preparation),
top-stitch the bias around the and sew in place. Press with
neckline, down to the ends iron. (See Pic E.)
of the bias binding keeping  Turn up the hem, pin or
the ends tucked inside for a press in place, then sew to
neat finish. (See Pic C.) Note: secure. Press to complete.
(See Pic F.)
D E
C
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 17
19/02/2019 15:41
 We love
STYLE

Unisex
KIMONO
Easy to make and easy to
wear, this kimono is an
ideal project for matching
loungewear

18 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS.E-book_18.indd 18 19/02/2019 15:41

 lt lp  - Cut 1 о fd

Seve
Cut 2 et et Frоt - Cut 2

LAYPLAN:
fold fold

lt lp  - Cut 1 о fd Seve nd

Seve lt - Cut 2

Cut 2 et et Frоt - Cut 2
Frоt nast nd

Seve nd

lt - Cut 2

MATERIALS & TOOLS:
Frоt nast nd
• 4.2m (4½ yds) of 115cm-wide
(45”-wide). Or 3.7m (4 yds)
of 150cm-wide (60”-wide)
lightweight cotton or silky fabric
• 2.1m (2 ¼ yd) of 115 or 150cm-
wide (45 or 60”-wide)
co-ordinating fabric for the
contrast bands
• 1.5 m (1 5/8 yd) iron-on interfacing
• co-ordinating thread
• templates downloaded from
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
NOTES:
Use a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance
throughout. Neaten the edges of all
pieces before you begin.
 With RST, stitch the straight
edge of one pocket piece to
each garment front at the
marked position. Now attach
the remaining two pocket
pieces to the kimono back,
matching the placement lines.
(See Pic B.)
the kimono to the back at the
side, from the sleeves down
around the pockets to the
hem. Sew the seam in a single
motion pivoting at the corners.
Reinforce the underarm and
the pocket top and bottom
by stitching again for 5cm (2”)
either side of the pivot points.
Clip into the seam allowance
where the pocket joins the
garment at the lower edge and
press the pocket towards the
garment front. (See Pic C.)
long strip. Press the non-
interfaced long edge to the WS
by 1.5cm (5/8”).
 With RST, pin the interfaced
edge of the contrast band to
the kimono front. If necessary,
clip into the seam allowance
to help fit the band at the
neckline. Sew and press the
seams towards the contrast
band. (See Pic D.)

ASSEMBLY
 Stay-stitch the neck edge of
the kimono back just inside the
seam allowance.
 With RST, pin and then sew
the back piece to the front
pieces at the shoulder seams.
Press the seams open.
 Open out the garment. With
RST, matching the notches and
matching the small centre dot
on the sleeve to the shoulder
seam, pin the sleeve to the
armhole edge. Sew, then press
the seam towards the sleeve.
(See Pic A.)
 Press all seams towards
the pockets, then press the
pockets away from
the garment.
 With RST, pin the front of
ATTACH THE
CONTRAST BANDS
 Cut interfacing half the
width of the contrast band
pieces and fuse to the WS
of the bands down one long
edge, aligned with the fold.
With RST, stitch the band
pieces together to create one
 At the hem, temporarily fold
the band in half RST, and pin.
Stitch across the band only,
making a 5cm (2”) hem. (See
Pic E.) Turn the band RS out
and press. The turned-under
long edge of the band will now
just overlap the seam attaching
the band to the garment.
Press up the remaining
garment hem by 5cm (2”) to
match the band fold, then
on the inside press under by
2.5cm (1”). Top-stitch in place.

SIZING:
36 38 40 42 44 46 48
118.5cm 120cm 121.25cm 122.5cm 123.75cm 125cm 126.25cm
CHEST
46¾” 47¼” 47¾” 48¼” 48¾” 49¼” 49¾”
116cm 117.25cm 118.5cm 119.75cm 121cm 122.25cm 123.5cm
WAIST
455⁄8” 461⁄8” 465⁄8” 471⁄8” 475⁄8” 481⁄8” 485⁄8”
133cm 134.25cm 135.5cm 136.75cm 138cm 139.25cm 140.5cm
HEM WIDTH
523⁄8” 527⁄8” 533⁄8” 537⁄8” 543⁄8” 547⁄8” 553⁄8”

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 19

LS.E-book_18.indd 19 19/02/2019 15:41

 Slip-stitch the neatened
band edge over the seam on
the inside.
ABOUT
THE BOOK

ATTACH THE
SLEEVE BANDS The Great British Sewing Bee: From
Cut the interfacing to half Stitch to Style by Wendy Gardiner
the width of the sleeve bands
(Quadrille £25) © 2016 Love
and fuse as you did with the
contrast bands. With RST, Productions. Photography © 2016
stitch the short ends of the Jenni Hare.
band together to form a circle.
Press the non-interfaced long
edge to the WS by 1.5cm
(5/8”). RST attach the band to
the sleeve. Fold the band to
the inside, so that the turned-
under edge just overlaps the
seam, and slipstitch in place.
(See Pic F.)
TUTORIAL
SLIPSTITCH

Used to close turning gaps

MAKE THE BELT AND
BELT LOOPS
Place the belt pieces RST
and sew across one short end
to make one long strip. Fold
the strip in half lengthways,
RST. Sew around the raw
edges leaving a turning gap
in the middle. Turn the belt
RS out and press then slip-
stitch the opening closed.
Fold the belt loop strips in
half lengthways, with RST, and
stitch along the long edge.
Turn RS out, tucking the raw
ends inside. Slip-stitch closed.
Try on the kimono and pin
mark the position for the belt
loops at the side seams. Hand
or machine-stitch in place at
the side seams.
or sew double turned hems.
Anchor a knot inside the
fold of the hem, pick up
a tiny thread from the
garment fabric and then
pass the needle back
into the folded hem
allowance. Slide the needle
forwards inside the fold by
about 1cm, then bring it up
and through a tiny thread
of the garment again.
Continue like this
to complete the hem.
On the RS of the garment
all that should be visible is a
tiny prick stitch and on the
reverse, a small V-shaped
stitch.

20 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS.E-book_18.indd 20 19/02/2019 15:42

 We love
Japanese-
STYLE

style
TOP
Sewing Bee mania is
back! This asymmetric
draped top from the new
book accompanying the
show, is made from only
four pieces and is quick
and easy to sew
Project WENDY GARDINER

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 21

LS.E-book_21.indd 21 19/02/2019 15:42

 SIZING: LAYPLAN:
150cm-wide
BUST BUST WAIST WAIST HIP
SIZE HIP (")
(cm) (") (cm) (") (cm)
8 83 32½ 65 25½ 92 36
10 88 34½ 70 27½ 97 38

Selvedges

Selvedges
12 93 36½ 75 29½ 102 401/8
14 98 38½ 80 31½ 109 42¾
16 104 41 86 33¾ 113 44½
18 110 43¼ 92 36¼ 119 46¾
20 116 45½ 98 38½ 125 49¼

MATERIALS & TOOLS facing up. Lay out the pattern pieces side seams from the hem to the sleeve
• 1.5m 150cm-wide stretch knit jersey as shown, with the grain lines parallel end. Note that the centre front neck edge
• ballpoint needle to the selvedges and cut out. Transfer extends beyond the back. (See Pic C.)
• co-ordinating thread any markings to the fabric. (See  Fold the seam allowance at the
• templates downloaded from transferring tips on next page.) centre front neckline to the

Top tip!
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk  Turn the centre back wrong side in line with the
neckline over to the wrong back shoulder point. Pin
NOTES: side by 6mm and then by in place, pinning the rest
This top is designed for stretch knit fabric, such 6mm again. Pin in place of the shoulder seam as
as single or double knits with a minimum of 30% and zigzag-stitch to Japanese-style clothes are well. Zigzag or overlock
stretch. Use a 1.5cm seam allowance throughout, secure. Neaten the centre uniquely cut for unusual the seams. (See Pic D.)
unless otherwise stated front neckline by zigzag- drape. Much of the garment  Fold the cuff piece
stitching or overlocking. can be constructed in half, RST. Pin and
HOW TO MAKE: (See Pics A & B.) using an overlocker zigzag-stitch or overlock
 Trace off the pattern pieces, front back  With RST, matching the raw the underarm (side) seam.
and cuff. After preparing your fabric, lay edges of the sleeves and hem, pin Repeat for the second cuff.
it out as a single layer, with the right side and then zigzag-stitch or overlock the (See Pic E.)

A B C

D E

22 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS.E-book_21.indd 22 19/02/2019 15:42

 F
 With RST, aligning the raw edges and
matching the underarm seam on the top
to the cuff seam, pin the narrower end of
the cuffs to the sleeves. Zigzag-stitch or
overlock. (See Pic F.)
 Turn down the cuff. Turn under and
pin a 1.5cm hem on both the top and
the cuffs and secure with a zigzag stitch.
Press the top to finish. (See Pic G.)
ABOUT
THE BOOK
The Great British Sewing Bee: From
Stitch to Style by Wendy Gardiner
(Quadrille £25) © 2016 Love
Productions. Photography © 2016
Jenni Hare.
LS.E-book_21.indd 23
TRANSFERRING
PATTERN MARKINGS
Pattern pieces have lots of useful
information and markings to help
with construction. Some need
to be transferred to the fabric to
match pieces and to correctly place
pockets, darts, pleats and zips.
Marking pens and chalks are the
perfect tools. Test out pens on a
scrap of fabric to ensure the mark
can be removed and that it doesn’t
‘bleed’ into the fabric
NOTCHES
These should have been cut
outwards around the pattern pieces.
However, if you have missed one,
mark the placement of notches by
snipping into the seam allowance
a little.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23
19/02/2019 15:42
 LUXE
jumpsuit
A jumpsuit is a
comfortable, easy-to-
wear garment suitable
for day or night. Wear
it with small heels
and co-ordinating
accessories or, for
special occasions, add
killer heels, statement
necklace and
clutch bag
Project WENDY GARDINER

24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS.E-book_24.indd 24 19/02/2019 15:43

 LAYPLANS
60“/150cm-wide fabric 45”/115cm-wide fabric
6 with selvedges matching. If your
seam allowances and press
fabric is 150cm wide, fold it in half
the seam open. With right
widthways. Trace off the pattern
8 sides together, matching the
7 pieces – bodice front, bodice back,
2 notches, pin and stitch the
trouser front, trouser back, sleeve,
9 7 bodice fronts to the back at
front facing, back facing, pocket.
the shoulders and side seams.
After preparing your fabric, fold it as
Neaten the seam allowances
shown on the layout for the width of
5 and press the seams open.
fabric you are working with. Lay out
(See Pic B.)
the pattern pieces as shown. Measure
3  Fold, pin and stitch the darts
4 to the selvedge to make sure that the
in the trouser backs and fronts.
grain is straight. Cut out and transfer
Press the waist darts towards
markings to the fabric.
the centre back.
1 (See Pic C.)
1
HOW TO MAKE:  With right sides together,
 Stay-stitch the bodice front matching the notches and
and back neck edges 13mm aligning the raw edges, pin
Interfacing 3 from the edge by stitching one pocket to a trouser front.
with a regular 2.5 stitch length Stitch, taking a 1cm seam.
just inside the seam allowance, Press the seam towards the
sewing from the side edges to pocket. Apply the remaining
6 the centre. pocket pieces to the other
 Fold, pin and stitch the waist trouser front and the trouser
darts in the bodice back and back pieces in the same way.
5 the bust and waist darts in the (See Pic D.)
bodice front pieces. Press the  With right sides together,
waist darts towards the centre pin one trouser front to one
front or back, and the bust trouser back at the inside leg
darts downwards. (See Pic A.) and stitch. Repeat for the
5 4
 With right sides together, other trouser leg. Neaten the
pin and stitch the back bodice seam allowances and press the
6 pieces together. Neaten the seams towards the back.
(See Pic E.)
8

A B

PATTERN PIECES:
1 – Bodice front – cut 1
2
2 – Bodice back – cut 2
3 – Trouser front – cut 2
9
4 – Trouser back – cut 2
5 – Front facing – cut 2
6 – Back facing – cut 1 on fold
(150cm) or cut 1 (115cm) NOTES:
7 – Sleeve – cut 2 This jumpsuit has a partially
8 – Pocket – cut 2 elasticated waist for comfort and C D
9 – Pocket – cut 2 a fashionable exposed zip at the
centre front. Darts provide shaping
MATERIALS & TOOLS: and there are in-seam pockets at hip
• 3.6m 115cm-wide or 3.1m level. If you prefer, you can leave out
150cm-wide fabric the pockets to achieve a smoother
• 70cm iron-on interfacing hip line. Use a 1.5cm (⁵⁄₈”) seam
• 45cm open-ended zip allowance throughout, unless
• 50cm 12mm-wide otherwise stated. If your fabric is
bias binding 115cm wide, cut it in half across the
• 50cm 6mm-wide elastic width, and then turn one piece over
• safety pin and lay it right side down on top of
• matching sewing thread the other – both opened out flat,

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 25

LS.E-book_24.indd 25 19/02/2019 15:43

 E F  With right sides together,
stitch one trouser front to a
trouser back at the side seams,
pivoting at the large circle at
the top of the pocket, stitching along the top edge through all
around the pocket and
pivoting again at the bottom
large circle before continuing
down the side seam. Clip
diagonally into the seam
allowance below the pocket.
Repeat for the other trouser
G H leg. Press the seams towards
the back. (See Pic F.)
 Turn the pockets towards
the front pieces along the
seam lines. Press and tack the
pockets to the upper edge.
(See Pic G.)
 To stitch the crotch seam,
turn one trouser leg right side
out and slip it into the other
one so that the right sides are
together, matching the
side and centre
for the other side seam. (See
Pic J.)
Press the binding up
towards the bodice and stitch
thicknesses. (See Pic K.)
Fuse 2.5cm strips of
interfacing to the wrong side
of the zip-placement area on
the centre front bodices. Insert
the exposed zip (see tutorial,
page 27.) With this method,
the teeth of the zip are
exposed as a design feature,
but no stitching is visible on
the right side of the garment.
Apply the interfacing pieces
to the front facing and back
fabric facings. With right sides
together, stitch the facing
sections together at the
shoulder seams. Then
neaten the outer edge of the
facing by overlocking,
overedge-stitching

Top tip
seams. Stitch or turning
I J from the centre a narrow hem.
back to the With right
large circle. This jumpsuit works in a sides together,
Stitch again range of fabric but drapey matching
close to the styles will suit it best, the notches
first row, just like chambray, crepe or and shoulder
within the viscose. Don't be afraid seams, pin the
seam allowance, to try a print! facing to the
then trim the seam bodice. Stitch the
allowance close to the neck edge. Grade the
stitching. Press the seam open. seam allowance by cutting
Turn the trousers right side the garment seam allowance
K L out. (See Pic H.) nearest the garment to 1cm
With right sides together, and the facing seam allowance
matching the seams, darts and to 6mm.
raw edges, pin the bodice over Under-stitch the facing
the waistline of the trousers. along the neck edge. Turn
Stitch, then press the seam the facing to the inside of the
allowances up towards the garment. Slip-stitch the edge
bodice. (See Pic I.) of the facing to the zip tape
To form the waistline casing and the facing to the shoulder
for the side elastic, cut two seams.
15-cm lengths of bias binding. Ease-stitch (stitch two rows
Open out one long edge of just inside the seam line with
the bias binding and fold the a long stitch length) the upper
short end in by 6mm. Pin the edge of the sleeve between
M N
binding to the seam allowance the notches. With RST,
on the inside of the garment matching the notches, fold
between the dots at the sides, and stitch the sleeve. Repeat
placing the crease from the for second sleeve. (See Pic L.)
fold of the binding close to Neaten the raw edge of
the seam between the bodice the sleeve by overlocking,
and the trousers. At the other overedge or zigzag stitching.
end of the binding, again turn Turn up 2.5cm and slip-stitch
the short end of the bias tape in place.
in. Stitch in the crease. Repeat

26 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS.E-book_24.indd 26 19/02/2019 15:43


With RST, pin the sleeve into
the armhole, placing the large
circle at the shoulder seam.
Adjust the ease, tack and
stitch. Stitch again. Trim and
neaten the raw edges together.
Press the seam towards the
sleeve. Repeat for the second
sleeve. (See Pic M.)
Cut two pieces of elastic
5cm longer than the bias
binding. Attach a safety pin
to one end of the elastic and
feed right through the binding.
Ensure the free end doesn’t
disappear inside the casing.
Pin the elastic through all the
layers at the start and end of
the elastic and try the garment
on. Check for comfort
and adjust if necessary by
tightening or loosening the
elastic. Once you are happy
with the fit stitch vertically
down through the casing and
the elastic to anchor in place.
(See Pic N.)
Turn the lower edge of the
legs to the wrong side by 3cm
and press. Press under the raw
edge by 6mm and stitch close
to the inner edge to finish
the hem.
ABOUT
THE BOOK
The Great British Sewing Bee: From
Stitch to Style by Wendy Gardiner
(Quadrille £25) © 2016 Love
Productions. Photography © 2016
Jenni Hare.
LS.E-book_24.indd 27
How to sew an exposed zip
This method just has the teeth on view, with no stitching visible on the right side of the garment
 Neaten the raw edges of the
seam allowances into which
the zip is to be inserted. Press.
Fuse 2.5cm-wide strips of
interfacing to the wrong side
of the zip placement area on
each piece.
 On the WS of the
fabric mark the zip placement
lines with a chalk pencil,
marking the length to just
below the zip stop and
the sides, 2cm each side of
the neatened edges. Hand-
or machine-tack along the
marked lines.
 Snip diagonally into the
seam allowances, starting 1cm
above the end of the basting
and down towards the corners,
making sure you don’t clip the
basting stitching.
 Fold the seam allowance of
the zip placement areas to the
wrong side along the tacking
stitching and press.
 With RST, stitch
the remaining seam from the
horizontal tacking line down
to the hem, taking a 1.5cm
seam allowance. (This will
NOT line up with the folded
zip placement area, which has
been folded at 2cm.)
 Press the seam allowances
open. Note that above the
seam, the zip opening has a
gap and the little triangles of
fabric are pointing up.
 Flip the garment so that
the RS is uppermost and pin
the zip right side down, with
the zip stop end just below
the horizontal tacking and
the zip pull towards the hem.
Stitch across the bottom
of the zip, in line with the
previous tacking – just across
the centre of the zip, not all
the way across the zip tape.
 Flip the zip up and push it
to the inside of the garment,
so that only the teeth are
exposed from the RS. On
the WS, the little triangles
of fabric should now be
pointing downwards.
 Turn the garment right side
out and anchor the zip tape
to the seam allowance only,
using double-sided tape
or temporary glue. Turn back
one side so that only the
seam allowance is uppermost,
with the zip tape in place
underneath. Machine-sew
down the vertical tacking
stitches. Repeat for the other
side of the zip. Turn the
garment over and you will see
a beautifully inserted zip with
the teeth exposed.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 27
19/02/2019 15:43
 knit
We love
STYLE

Drapey knit
DRESS
Designed to flatter all
figures, this elegant dress
has a fantastic silhouette
inspired by contemporary
Japanese cutting styles.
Made up of just three main
body pieces, it features
kimono sleeves, hidden
pockets and a stylish front
pleat detail
Project: CLAIRE-LOUISE HARDIE

Claire-Louise
“This is the favourite of my patterns
from the new sewing book Fashion
With Fabric. It’s designed to be
made up in double-knit jersey, often
called ponte roma, which is a stable
knit suitable for anyone scared of
sewing stretch. This is a great dress
for transitional seasons, as it works
well on its own or with chunky
tights and a fitted top”

28 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS.E-book_28.indd 28 19/02/2019 15:44

 SIZING:

FINISHED XS S M L XL
MEASUREMENTS (8-10) (10-12) (12-14) (14-16) (18-20)

BUST (cm) 142 147 152 157 162

BUST (") 55 57 1/2 59 1/2 61 63 1/2
WAIST (cm) 114 119 124 129 134
WAIST (") 44 46 1/2 48 50 52 1/2
HIP (cm) 110 115 120 125 130
HIP (") 43 45 47 49 51

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

• stable double-knit jersey fabric:
dots, pin and sew the pockets
1.9 m (2 yd) fabric 150 cm (60".)
onto the centre front section,
wide
GBSB3or 2.5- m 114 cm of 45”
finals sewing between the marked 07875 243 960 WINTER 2014
kate.illustrator@gmail.com
-wide fabric
1- drapey dressiron-on knit points only.
• 20cm lightweight
or bias interfacing
• co-ordinating sewing
machine thread
• ballpoint or stretch twin needle
• basic sewing kit
• Stable double-knit jersey such as
ponte roma. Not suitable for Lycra
or any fabricGBSB3
with an -excessive
finals kate.illustrator@gmail.com 07875 243 960 WINTER 2014
amount of stretch.
1- drapey dress
• templates downloaded from
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES:
1.5cm seam
illus 1allowances included
throughout, unless otherwise stated.
The dress can be sewn either a zigzag
stitch on a regular.

HOW TO MAKE:  Working from the RS,

Note that all widths will require press the pockets and seam
the front pieces to be cut out allowances away from the body
on a single layerillusof1 fabric with section and then understitch LAYPLANS:
the right side of the fabric between the dots on the
facing up and the pattern pocket side of the joining line, fold single layer
pieces facing right side up. not the centre front.
Trace off the pattern pieces
– centre front, left front, right
front, back, front facing, back
facing and pocket. Cut out and
transfer any pattern markings
to the fabric.

PREPARE
illus 2THE
FACINGS
 Following the manufacturer’s
instructions, apply lightweight
knitted interfacing to the
wrong side of the illus
front2 and
back facings.

ATTACH THE POCKET

BAGS TO THE
 With RST, making sure the
CENTRE FRONT raw edges and pockets align,
 With RST, matching the

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 29

LS.E-book_28.indd 29 19/02/2019 15:44

 1- drapey dress

lay the left front over the centre front. Pin MAKE THE FACINGS AND

Top tip
along the seam and around the pocket. FINISH THE NECKLINE
Machine-sew, pivoting at theilluspreviously 5
 Zigzag-stitch or overlock the lower
stitched points around the pocket. Clip hem edge of the facings to neaten them.
into the corner of the left front at the With RST, pin then stitch the facings This dress is quite an
pocket junction so that you can press the together along the short side edges to over-sized style so bear
seam allowance open. Repeat Step 3 to form a loop. Press the seams open. With this in mind when picking
GBSB3 - finals attach the right front to the other side of
kate.illustrator@gmail.com 07875 243 960 WINTER 2014
RST, pin the facings around the neckline, a size. You can go down
- drapey dress the centre front. matching the centre fronts and centre one size to make it
backs and matching the shoulder seams more fitted
of the dress with the side seams of the
facings. Sew in place.
GBSB3 - finals illus 607875 243 960 WINTER 2014
kate.illustrator@gmail.com

- drapey dress
I’ve added a line to the
facing as leaving the outer
lines out is so limiting to
accuracy. As you said the
facing looked flat as it’s
seams are pressed open
so the rs colour looked
like part of the front of the
illus 3 dress

 Grade the seam allowance around the

illus 3
neckline and clip into the curves.
 Working from the RS, under-stitch the
CREATE THE FRONT PLEAT
GBSB3 - finals
facing to the seam allowance around the
kate.illustrator@gmail.com 07875 243 960 WINTER 2014
 Fold the left front pleat along the neckline. Turn the facing to the inside of
marked fold line, then take the1- fold
drapey dress
line the dress and press from the WS, making
over the centre-front seams you’ve sure that the seam sits just inside the
just sewn towards the right-hand side, neck. Secure the hem of the facing to the
matching up all three centre front circle shoulders and the front seams with a few
marks. Tack around the front neckline to small hand stitches.
secure the pleat.
illus 4
GBSB3 - finals kate.illustrator@gmail.com 07875 243 960 WINTER 2014

1- drapey dress

illus 7

illus 4

JOIN THE SIDE SEAMS

illus 7 Pin and sew the front to the back at the
side seams, from the sleeve down to the
hem in one continuous line of stitching.
STITCH THE SHOULDERS
 With RST, pin and stitch the front of the HEM THE DRESS
dress to the back at the shoulder seams. Press under a 1.5cm hem around the
GBSB3 - finals kate.illustrator@gmail.com 07875 243 960 WINTER 2014

Press the seams towards the back. sleeve ends. Fit a ballpoint or stretch twin
1- drapey dress
needle to your machine. Working from
illus 8 the RS, pin and machine the hem in place.

illus 8

illus 5

Hem the bottom of the dress in the

same way as the sleeves, pressing under
a 2.5cm hem.

30 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

illus 6
LS.E-book_28.indd 30 19/02/2019 15:44
I’ve added a line to the
facing as leaving the outer
 We love
STYLE

Men's
classic
T-SHIRT
It’s great to be able
to sew for the men in
your life, and this is a
real wardrobe staple
created by our very
own columnist
Claire-Louise Hardie

32 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS.E-book_32.indd 32 19/02/2019 15:45

 CUTTING:

Frоt

Ne
nd



Seve

155cm w e faic A B D
Stret

FINISHED
XS S M L XL

Top tip!
MEASUREMENTS

CHEST 94cm 99cm 104cm 109cm 115cm

CHEST
MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• 1.75m fabric such as cotton,
linen lightweight wool
• 0.5m lightweight
fusible interfacing
• 6 1.5cm (5⁄8”) buttons
• co-ordinating thread
• templates downloaded from
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
NOTES:
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS
Stretch knit fabric such as interlock
and jersey, with 25% stretch; this
project is not suitable for Lycra or
very stretchy jersey
SEAM ALLOWANCES
You can sew this T-shirt either on
a regular sewing machine using a
zigzag stitch or with an overlocker.
The seam allowance is 1cm for
either method. If you use a regular
machine, you don’t need to worry
37cm 39cm 41cm
about finishing off the raw edges as
interlock doesn’t fray. Use a ballpoint
needle if sewing on the machine, and
a ballpoint twin needle for the hems
CUTTING
It’s important to get the fabric laid
out so that the direction of the
fabric’s stretch runs around the width
of the pattern pieces, not up and
down the length. If your fabric has a
directional print or surface pattern,
lay the front and back pattern pieces
out following the same orientation.
Both the front and back of the T-shirt
need to be cut on a folded edge of
the fabric
HOW TO MAKE:
 Trace off the pattern pieces
– front, back, sleeve and
neckband. Cut out and transfer
any pattern markings to the
fabric. Mark the centre front
43cm 45.25cm
The neckband is straight
while the neckline is curved.
To stretch the neckband
evenly onto the neck, match
up halfway and
and centre back with quarterway marks
notches, too.
 Following the
manufacturer’s instructions,
apply a strip of iron-on
stabilising tape to both of the
back shoulder seams, within
the seam allowance. This
T-shirts are easy
will stop the shoulders from
stretching out of shape when
fitting, as there are
the T-shirt is worn. no fiddly darts or
 With RST, place the front complicated panels.
piece over the back. Pin and The neckline is
then stitch the left shoulder finished off with a
with a 1cm seam allowance. jersey band, and the
Press the seam towards the T-shirt can be sewn
back. Turn the joined pieces RS either on a regular
facing up. (See Pic A.) sewing machine with
 Fold the neckband piece a zigzag stitch or on
in half lengthways, with WST. an overlocker
Press the fold in place and
then pin along the length to
hold it together. (See Pic B.)
 Aligning the raw edges, pin

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33

LS.E-book_32.indd 33 19/02/2019 15:45

 the folded neckband to the RS
of the neckline at the marked
centre front, centre back and
shoulder seam marks. Gently
stretch the band and pin in
between these points until the
whole band is pinned in place.
(See Pic C.)
 Sew the band to the
neckline. Press the neckband
up, so that the folded edge
is away from the seamline,
making sure the seam is well

Top tip!
The armhole and sleeve curve
E F

in opposite directions, so you

may need to ease them together
as you pin. Horizontal pinning
is perfect for this

pressed towards the inside

of the neckline. Top-stitch
around the neckline through
the band seam allowance to G H
secure, if you wish. (See Pic D.)
 Pin and sew the front to
the back at the right shoulder
seam, making sure that the
folded edges of the neckband

sit perfectly on top of one
another, so that they become
a smooth, unbroken line once
sewn. Press the shoulder seam
towards the back. (See Pic E.)
 Lay the T-shirt flat, with
the RS facing up. With RST,
matching the double notches
on the sleeve with those on
the back of the armhole, and
the single notches on the
sleeve to the front armhole,
pin the sleeve all around the
armhole. Stitch the sleeve
in place, then repeat on the
opposite side. (See Pic F.)
 Fold the T-shirt in half at
the shoulders, RST. Pin the
side and underarm seams,
matching the side notches,
the edges of the bottom hem
and the sleeve ends. Stitch
one continuous seam from the
hem through the armhole to
the end of the sleeve.
(See Pic G.)
 With the T-shirt inside
out, fold and press a 2.5cm
hem around the bottom of
the T-shirt. Turn the T-shirt
so the RS faces up and pin
the pressed hem in place.
Fit a stretch twin needle to
your sewing machine and
thread using your second
spool holder. Again working
from the RS, sew the hem in
place, following the 2cm seam
allowance guide on the throat
plate of your machine. (See
Pic H.)
 Hem the sleeves in the
same way, pressing under
a 1.5cm hem to the wrong
side of both sleeve edges and
following the 1cm seamline
on the throat plate of your
machine.
Double trouble
HOW TO USE A TWIN NEEDLE
 Replace your regular needle with the twin needle
– this is exactly the same principle as changing any
needle – and ensure a wide mouth machine foot such
as a zigzag foot is attached to your machine.
 Thread the left needle eye as you would normally.
 Your machine will hopefully have come with a
second spool pin. Place your extra spool pin onto the
bobbin winder shaft or in the designated slot for the pin
and put your second thread spool in place.
If you don’t have a second pin, all is not lost! You can
tape a chopstick or pencil to the side of your sewing
machine as a temporary solution, so long as the spool
will fit over the top.
 Thread the right needle using your second spool of
thread. Just thread this in the same way you would a
normal needle, but don’t pass the thread through the
thread guide/bar above the needle for this spool. Easy
peasy! Now you’re ready to start sewing.

34 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS.E-book_32.indd 34 19/02/2019 15:45

 Try three issues
for just £6!
SAVE
66%

10 REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE:
1 SAVE money on every issue
2 FREE delivery direct to your door
3 NEVER miss an issue
4 BE THE FIRST to read Love Sewing
5 FAB patterns worth £18 included with every
issue including your favourite McCall Pattern
Company brands plus independent designs
6 Exclusive promise to offer BRANDED
PATTERNS in the widest size range
7 The BEST tutorials and projects from
industry experts including Wendy Gardiner
and Alison Smith MBE
8 BUILD your ultimate pattern collection
9 NEVER be short of sewing inspiration again
10 SPREAD the COST by Direct Debit or
credit/debit card
How to order:
Online: www.practicalsubs.com/4057
Call: 01858 438899 (QUOTE CODE: PLSE1920)
Offer expires 31/12/2020

LS.E-book_35.indd 2 19/02/2019 15:46