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 See Barbara's dress
on page 23

Meet the
… to issue 77 TEAM
of Love Sewing
appy January everyone! I hope this is the

H year all your sewing dreams come true,

whether that's mastering a new skill,
finding your perfect new pattern or achieving Amy
your best finish yet. We asked if you set any
re-sew-lutions last issue and have plenty of EDITOR
ideas for exciting new challenges you can try in Amy loves both sewing
this issue. and publishing so this
is her perfect job and
We have two gorgeous dress patterns included she hopes to inspire
in this issue. Our McCall's 6-in-1 shift dress pack you in every issue. Her
features an amazing creativity is contagious,
array of sleeves, youseecan
more
see on heron
more
necklines, lengths and herInstagram
Instagram account
account
pocket styles! Alongside almondrock_sews
this is our Threadcount
wrap bodice dresses
made of cosy jersey.
There are two versions
included and they
should see you through
to the warmer weather
in spring. If dresses Lorna
aren't your thing
we've got two great DEPUTY EDITOR
tops for you to try Lorna
Lornahas
hasbuckets
bucketsof
and two lovely skirts! enthusiasm for dress-
of enthusiasm for
making, embroidery
dressmaking, and
embroidery
At Love Sewing we're making magazines. She's
and making magazines.
dedicated to helping excited to see to
your
She's excited seemakes
your
McCall's 6-in-1 you boost your
skills and tackle any the way you'll learn our tips for working with jersey,
so remember
makes so remember
them
send them
to sendto
to letters@
to letters@
project that takes
dresses on page 19 your fancy. Along
corduroy, double gauze, quick bust adjustments,
how to get your sew-jo back and much more.
lovesewingmag.co.uk

There's also plenty to read this month; we have a

charming interview on page 10 with well-known
designer Kaffe Fasset. Continuing our spotlights on
special techniques, you can learn all about Royal
School of Needlework in our Brief History Of
A world feature on page 67. And it's a joy to have winner of
of colour The Great British Sewing Bee Juliet in this issue,
with Kaffe sharing her advice for creating statement sleeves on Nicola
page 14!
Fassett on DESIGNER
Nicola is passionate about
PAGE 10! design and has a sharp
eye for detail. She loves
creating new illustrations
and takes her inspiration
fromher
from herhometown
hometown:of
Manchester. See more
on her Instagram
calico_creative
 19

Inside this
ISSUE 6 dresses to
REGULARS
AND FEATURES
3 Welcome
try tonight
6 Love Sewing Loves
9 In the good books
10 15 minutes with with
Kaffe Fassett
14 Statement sleeves with
Sewing Bee’s Juliet
18 Machine review
23 Reader review: McCall’s 7120
PROJECTS
24 Pattern picks – 20% off patterns
at Sewbox 19 Your McCall’s pattern
26 SUBSCRIBE TODAY – 6-in-1 gorgeous dresses
33 Skill building with 24 Your Threadcount pattern
Wendy Gardiner – duo of essential wrap dresses
41 Thrifty Stitcher with 30 Pop of colour rainbow cushion
Claire-Louise Hardie 37 Feeling loopy rouleau blouse
48 The Simplicity Hackalong FREE copy of 46 Thank the cord pencil skirt
49 Shop of the month Sewing Basics for
61 Read more books bookmark
Every Body by
51 The Dressmaker’s Diary 72 Clowning around embroidery
Wendy Ward when
with Elisalex de Castro Peake
you subscribe to 74 Wrap it up ballet cardigan
54 Support your local sewing shop Love Sewing – 85 Made to twirl circle skirt
57 DISCOUNTS & GIVEAWAYS see page 26 for
further info 88 Bolt from the blue handbag
62 PATTERN READING BASICS &
FITTING ESSENTIALS
67 A Brief History of Royal School of
Needlework 90 Fabric focus – Save 20% on
77 Fabric focus – stretch yourself
fabric at Sew Creative Find us online
92 Corduroy fabric masterclass www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
78 Sewing workshops
95 We love Sewing Bee
81 Readers’ makes
96 Coming next issue
82 Couture masterclass with lovesewingmag
Alison Smith MBE 98 This month I’m making

4 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 24

Editorial
Deputy Managing Editor Amy Scarr
Deputy Editor Lorna Malkin
Chief Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton
Senior Sub-Editor Chantelle Salkeld
Junior Sub-Editor Harry McArthur
Lead Designer Nicola Vernon-Smith
Photographer Renata Stonyte
Covermount & Packaging Designer Beth Coe
Hair & make-up Nina Rochford, Yasmin Schwitzer
Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie,
18 Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake,
Wendy Gardiner

Advertising
Advertising enquiries Noune Sarkissian
30 noune.sarkissian@practical
37 publishing.co.uk
Stocking enquiries Jake Cooke
jake.cooke@practicalpublishing.co.uk

Publishing
Associate Publisher Softcrafts Kate Heppell
Group Buying & Licensing Controller Lucy Pedder
Group Business Development Manager
Chris Cooke
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Head of Publishing Ruth Walker
Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick
Managing Director Danny Bowler
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85 Robin Wilkinson

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Get to know Stock images provided by Shutterstock Inc

Kaffe Fassett
CONTRIBUTORS
Fiona Hesford
Fiona is the creative mind behind Sewgirl, a range of
retro-inspired patterns and kits for adults and children.
Why not make her gorgeous button-front blouse on
page 37? Visit Fiona’s shop at www.sewgirl.co.uk to see
the full range on offer and find upcoming workshops.
Angela Lackey
Angela is a mum to two girls and wishes there were more
hours in the day to sew. She’s decided life is too short for
housework, she’d rather be sewing! Try her rainbow cushion
project on page 30 and visit www.heartofcharnwood.
blogspot.co.uk to learn more about Angela.

Juliet Uzor Wendy Ward

Winner of The Great British Sewing Bee series 5, Juliet is on a
mission to share her joy of sewing with the world. In this issue
she explains how to create statement sleeves for a dramatic
effect on your next garment. Read her tips on page 14 and
step into Juliet’s world at www.sewsonatural.com
Wendy is back with her new book, Sewing Basics for Every
Body. Head to page 9 to read our exclusive interview about
her inspiration for the book and get a peek at what you
could make. Check out Wendy’s website www.wendyward.
co.uk to see future workshop dates and visit her shop!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 5

finds getting us sewing this month
WEAR THE TROUSERS
When it comes to statement
trousers, the Simplicity
8957 pattern is just begging
to be matched up with
eye-catching fabric. There
are five style options, each
boasting a slim-leg fit,
narrow waistband and the
option of adding a buttoned
vent at the trouser hem,
or a bold cuffed hem. If
you’re looking to up your
workwear game, this pattern
is a great place to start.
Sizes: UK 6-22
Printed pattern: £10 from
www.sewdirect.com
† Price and price conversion correct at the time of going to press
6 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
The patterns, people, fabric and
In the bag
There’s something so satisfying
about announcing you made
part of your outfit, so why
not complete the look with a
stylish, handmade accessory?
Crafter’s Companion has just
added three new designs to
its Gemini Bag Making die
range. Used in tandem with a
die-cutting machine, these nifty multi-media dies will cut
accurate fabric pieces, wadding and lining quickly and easily,
saving you heaps of time. With detailed instructions and
step-by-step guides, the kits are perfect for both beginner
and seasoned stitchers. Each set is priced at £24.99 and
available from www.crafterscompanion.co.uk
FABRIC FANTASTIC
Sometimes floaty fabric needs to take a back seat at this time
of year but don’t fret, we have a great alternative. Check out
these lovelies from the corduroy range at Fabrics For All.
The team stocks a variety of 100% cotton or cotton/elastane
mix corduroy fabric which works a treat with a range of
dressmaking patterns that need a little more structure. Why not
sew a flattering pencil skirt or culottes? Fabric is available for as
little as £6.50 per metre from www.fabricsforall.co.uk
 Stacey's
DAISY CHAIN
We’ve no doubt this gorgeous viscose fabric from Patterns and Plains is going
to be a real hit with sewists thinking ahead to their spring/summer makes. The
gorgeous daisy design is printed on a lightweight woven crêpe offering a lovely
drape that would be perfect for tops and dresses. Priced at £9.50 per metre from
CORNER
www.patternsandplains.com

Stacey Chapman is a
renowned textile artist and
free-motion embroidery
expert. Every month, she
will be sharing useful tips
and tricks to help you
achieve sewing success.

Stacey See more from Stacey at

www.artseacraftsea.com

Happy Valentines
A certain vital organ is at the centre of nearly every
Valentine’s craft project – the heart. Throughout time it

Time to shine
Adding embellishments to your garments can be a great way of creating something
completely unique. We were drawn like magpies to the new Diamant Grandé range
by DMC that comprises smooth, glossy, metallic thread and a range of opulent cross
stich and embroidery designs that are sure to add a touch of glamour to your makes.
Diamont Grande thread is priced at £3.95 from www.dmc.com
has visually morphed into the cute, rounded symbol that
we regularly use with emojis and beyond.
We all have unique handwriting and tend to doodle in
a similar style to our handwriting. Your natural drawing
of a heart shape may be rounded, elongated, squared
edges or twirly. My challenge to you is to try the opposite
of this automatic default. This offers the opportunity to
take note of your natural style, which, once considered,
you can choose to change. I took on this challenge
myself for this project. I naturally drew elongated hearts,
therefore decided to make a square, chunky heart. Using
felt in the centre, I followed the edges in ribbon, folded
at angles, couching them down with the sewing machine
by freehand embroidery. Paul Smith stripes were my
influence for colour and pattern within my set challenge.
Despite the centre beginning as chunky and square,
elongation naturally crept in due to the ribbon shapes!
It was a fun project and I will certainly try again to see if
I can indeed achieve this goal. How will you do?

Craft Uprising
As climate change and fast fashion
increasingly occupy space in today’s
news, the importance of crafts
within our communities is inevitably
gaining traction. Reflecting on these
counter cultures, The Heritage Crafts
Association is holding a conference on
4th April at Oxford Town Hall where
it will welcome keynote speakers
including Patrick Grant from The Great British Sewing Bee and Sarah Corbett from
the Craftivism Collective. The Craft Uprising event will ultimately shine a spotlight
on the power of crafts in making positive changes in the world. Tickets cost £28
for HCA members and £38 for non-members, for more information and to book,
visit www.heritagecrafts.org.uk/craftuprising

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 7
 Make your party dress
The new year doesn’t
have to mean a hiatus for
your glitzy party frocks.
Independent sewing
company, Make@140
is hosting its inaugural
Plymouth Frocktails event
on 25th April at the stunning
waterfront venue, Royal
William Yard in Plymouth.
This is a chance to meet
other makers and enjoy a
delicious buffet, cocktails
and dance the night away.
You’ll receive a goodie
bag with sewing treats and
there’ll be a complimentary
raffle with lots of sewing-
related prizes to win. Tickets
cost £35 and are bookable
at www.makeat140.co.uk
BAGSY MINE!
Hands up if you have a
growing pile of fabric scraps
and no idea what to do with
it. This practical pattern
from Aneela Hoey includes
detailed instructions and
illustrations to help you
make the All in One Box
Pouch and put those
leftovers to good use! The
pouch includes numerous
compartments for storing
your sewing tools, including
clear vinyl-zipped sections
so you can see contents
at a glance. The pattern
is priced at £8.50 and
available from www.
shopbeyondmeasure.co.uk

That’s a wrap
QUILTING FOR A CAUSE
On your quest for floral prints we’ve no doubt you’ve come across
the vibrant range of Liberty fabric designed by Alice Caroline. For the
past four years Alice and her team have been sharing beautiful quilts
with disadvantaged children across the world as part of the Quilt SOS
project. This year, the team donated 65 quilts to an SOS Children’s
Village in Latvia; a branch of the SOS Children Village Charity that
provides homes for orphaned or displaced children in 125 countries
around the world. If you would like to take part next year, you can
find all the information you need at www.alicecaroline.com

Imagining yourself relaxing riverside in this gorgeous number?

Us too! The latest offering from Cashmerette is a beautifully
romantic wrap dress with plenty of timeless details. View A
offers a knee-length hem, capped or elbow length flutter
sleeves, while View B delivers a dramatic ruffled midi skirt and
long ruffled sleeves. There’s also a maternity skirt option for
mamas to be!
Sizes: UK 16-32
Printed pattern: Available in the UK from £16.50 from
www.thefoldline.com

8 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 BOOK OF IN THE GOOD
THE MONTH

BOOKS
Our pick of this month’s new sewing
and dressmaking books

Sewing Basics for
Every Body
by Wendy Ward, £12.99, CICO Books
Hi Wendy!
Can you tell us
what inspired
you to
write Sewing
Basics for
Every Body?
I’ve always
loved to sew
good quality basics that I know will get
lots of wear. I’m really interested in and
passionate about sustainability in textiles,
fashion and sewing. Making clothes that
get lots of wear rather than being kept for
‘best’ is an important part of this approach
for me. It’s all about price per wear and
making every day your ‘best’ day!
Why was it important for the book to
appeal to a broad range of sewists?
Like in fashion, I’m aware that there are
more people enjoying sewing than the
stereotypical young, slim women which
is the image that so often accompanies
sewing patterns, books, magazines and
blogs. There is a whole world of ages,
shapes, genders, styles and skill levels of that’s all over social media, or a pretty
makers out there. I believe in the right of vintage-style dress, even if you never
everyone to create and follow their own wear these types of dresses. Making core
style. This book has the widest variety wardrobe basics rather than fancy ‘special
of projects in terms of skill level of all occasion’ clothes doesn’t seem to appeal to
of my books – there are several projects a lot of people new to sewing. Personally,
(T-shirts, pull-on trousers) that can easily I’d much rather invest my time and
be tackled by new makers as well as those money in great quality fabric and make
that will challenge more skilled makers a wardrobe of core basics that will mix
(formal shirts, coats). Making your own and match together easily and take the
fashion items is really empowering. hassle out of wondering what to wear
in a morning.
What is your favourite project in the
book and why? Finally, do you have any exciting plans
I had been wanting to design and make a for 2020?
coat for a long time (having made several I’m going to be doing
for other people over the years), but I a lot more work on
just never seemed to find the time, so I sustainability. I did
was really happy to be able to include a an MA back in 2004
coat and jacket pattern in the book. I love that investigated
getting stuck into a longer, more complex ways to recycle
project. The coat and jacket project in textiles and for a long
the book gives you the opportunity to time I’ve wanted to
really hone your skills, take it slow and continue the work
enjoy the process. I started back then.
It might involve
Why do think curating a clothing, it might not,
capsule wardrobe is becoming but I’m really looking Get a free
increasingly popular? forward to a fresh copy on
So often when people start to sew, the creative challenge PAGE 26!
temptation is to make the latest pattern for 2020.

LEARN THE ROPES STEP BY STEP IN THE BAG

In this second Whether you’re
instalment from a newbie or an Create satchels for
Swedish designer experienced stitcher, every occasion with this
Fanny Zedenius you’ll this new book from new project book from
discover 30 mediative Alison Smith covers best-selling author,
projects and create all the essentials, from Debbie Shore. Use the
beautiful knotted pieces how to use a sewing template to create your
for yourself and your machine to finding the own unique designs!
home. Available 23rd right fabric. Available Available now, £17.99,
January, £14.99, 6th February, £14.99, Search Press
Hardie Grant Dorling Kindersley

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 9
 15 MINUTES
WITH...

Kaffe
FASSETT
Step inside the colourful world of the iconic designer
and discover where he finds his inspiration

10 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 Kaffe’s wanderlust fuels his creativity
Kaffe Fassett has dedicated the past 50
years of his life to the world of patchwork,
knitting, and needlepoint, promoting
these crafts through his own work and
encouraging others to find their own
creativity. He has produced over 30
publications from how-to books to books
focussing on colour in design. He also
tours internationally giving lectures,
hosting workshops and featuring his
work in museum exhibitions. We spoke to
the creative designer to learn more about
his process.

Hi Kaffe, you’re always off travelling

the world, how do you decide which
locations to focus on for your
quilting books?
I always try to find a location with
many colourful moods so that our latest
batch of quilts can all find a good setting
that mirrors or offsets the aesthetics in
each quilt.

I always try to
find a location
with many
colourful moods

You always seem to be travelling to

far-flung locations for your work,
where is your favourite place you’ve
visited and why?
Italy was a great choice as were the
fishing villages on the Cinque Terra. The
fisher folk prided themselves in dizzying
amounts of colours on the houses built
up the coastal hillsides. I loved the
Quilts in Sweden location, which was
the outdoor Museum of Houses from all
over Scandinavia. I also loved Portugal,
for Quilts in the Sun, and our American
locations for Quilts in America, so no
particular favourites I’m afraid.

What is your design process? Do you

begin with blocks or have an overall
design in mind, or do you start with
the fabric?
I have no set way to begin an idea. The
blocks arranged in an old quilt could start
Marvelling at colours in a French market

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 11
 DID YOU KNOW?
me off, or an abstract painting, the
colours in a new collection of prints,
or geometry found in architecture on a
• Kaffe Fassett was born in San Francisco in 1937.
foreign trip. Once I see an idea mapped
out on a pavement or an old quilt or • Over his diverse career, Kaffe has produced over
tones in a painting, I have confidence 30 publications covering quilts to knitwear and
that that particular balance can work even ceramics!
as a concept so I go ahead and start
building the idea from cut pieces on
• Kaffe learned how to knit on a train from Scotland to
my design wall. London, thanks to a fellow passenger who offered to
Kaffe’s new book is available now
teach him!
You’re well known for your love of • He has since undertaken knitwear commissions
vibrant colours, how do you decide for stars such as Barbara Streisand, Lauren Bacall,
which colours to use? Shirley Maclaine, HRH Princess Michael of Kent and
Colour is such a mysterious thing. many more!
Although I’m known for my bright
palette, I often resort to a neutral set • In 1988, Kaffe became the first living textile artist to
of tones when doing a one-off quilt for host a one-man show at the V&A Museum in London.
my own edification. My vibrant colours
• He has designed costumes and sets for the Northern
come from inspiration on my travels
Ballet Theatre and The Royal Shakespeare Company.
mostly, or in decorative arts museums
like the V&A in London. Market places • Kaffe is a proud Patron of the Quilters’ Guild,
all over the world are always filled with the UK Knitting & Crochet Guild and the
colour combinations. Fruit, vegetables Heritage Crafts Association.
and flowers for a start, but fabric, plastic
buckets, carpets, garments, all supply
the traveller’s eye with endless material
for design. You will suddenly notice Kaffe Fassett Rainbow Stash 2019 charm
that bright spots of colour on a neutral pack. Find your nearest stockist at
base become even more delicious, www.rhinetex.com/storelocator
or something like strawberry plants
displayed on black velvet (as I saw in
the Chelsea Flower Show back in the
70s) can be the start of a great quilt or
print design.

Where do you have in mind

for your next travels? Could
this lead to more books or
fabric lines perhaps?
I’m off to Sicily for my next trip to see
if I can find inspiration for a book. I’m
told it’s wonderfully colourful there so
I’m excited.

FIND OUT
MORE
Learn more about Kaffe Fassett, his
publications, designs and latest events
at www.kaffefassett.com
Kaffe’s newest book Quilts in the
Cotswolds is available now, and was
photographed on location at the
world-famous Hidcote Manor Garden

Chiaroscuro quilt from Quilts in Italy

 BEHIND
THE SEAMS

Statement sleeves with

JULIET
We're delighted to bring you these fun pattern picks from Juliet,
the winner of The Great British Sewing Bee series five

We invited Sewing Bee winner Juliet

to pick her favourite patterns with
statement sleeves and get us inspired to
make garments with a bit more drama.
So sit back with a cup of tea and enjoy
Juliet's bold sleeve pattern picks.

My love affair with sleeves started after

an ‘aha!’ moment! Realising the power I
had to modify Tilly and the Button’s Coco
pattern, coupled with figuring out the
maths behind circle skirts, there was
no stopping this woman! I changed the
easy-to-sew sleeves by inserting a flounce
to the short sleeve version to create a bell
sleeved Coco dress (left). But what gave it
a more unique look was the fabric choice
shown on the inside of the sleeves.

More recently, you might have seen my

jumpsuit for the Simplicity Hack-along
(find out more about how to take part
on page 48). I decided to hack the sleeve
on Simplicity 8658 to create a dramatic
silhouette gathered into a buttoned cuff.
There are lots of great tips on my blog
for getting started with pattern hacking
including fun videos showcasing the
finished jumpsuit.

If you're not ready to start hacking your

pattern pieces, there are lots of designs
ready to buy that can help you create
bold and eye-catching sleeves. Here’s
my round-up of my favourite patterns
available now for statement sleeves
plus some tips to consider when
choosing fabrics. Let's dive into a
wonderful world of sleeves!

14 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 I love McCall’s
7838 because
I don't think
any piece in my
wardrobe will
scream drama as
much as a button-
down shirt with
statement sleeves
like View C
of the pattern

Not great at setting in sleeves?

Try a bold flounce that sits on the arm

McCALL’S 7608
In readiness for any special event that
might crop up, a jumpsuit with exposed
shoulders and flared sleeves would be a
great addition to your wardrobe. But when
it’s created using a bold or abstract print
fabric, what more statement is there to be
made? The pattern calls for challis, crêpes,
lawn or stable knits and if you’re a beginner
or improving sewist I would recommend
a more stable fabric with as little 'slip' as
possible. I'm feeling more confident so have
chosen this John Kaldor abstract print
microfibre in bold lilac and lime
(above right), £14.99 per metre from
www.minervacrafts.com.
SIMPLICITY 8925
I’ve had a love-hate relationship with
grown-on sleeves due to how long it took
for me to master how to create them for
myself. This pattern broke the curse and
was such an easy pattern to work with.
Garments with grown-on sleeves have a
special way of hiding a multitude of sins
and I will recommend this pattern for all
levels of sewing. Designed for knits and
stretch jersey, this is a great entry pattern
to those looking to add a little drama
without going sleeve crazy!
VOGUE 9315
The cape-like option in this pack is my
absolute favourite and I love how stylish
it looks when styled for an evening out.
Warning! Remember to toile the bodice

Simplicity 8925
We love Juliet's bold jumpsuit created for
the Simplicity Hack-along
Vogue 9315 looks great in bold
African Wax cotton fabric
of this pattern before cutting into your
fashion fabric to ensure it fits your cup size.
You need light to mid-weight fabric for this
draped collar design and I opted for African
wax fabric for my garment. If you don't
have a local seller of wax cotton, discover a
gorgeous range of prints online at
www.dovetailed.co.uk.
McCALL’S 7838
I don't think any piece in my wardrobe will
scream drama as much as a button-down
shirt with statement sleeves. My favourite
version has got to be Version C with its
oversized cuffs that allows you to go wild
with the choicest of buttons. I have made
mine using African wax-print fabric but any
cotton blend fabric would do this stylish
design great justice.
16 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
McCALL’S 7660
Of all the ‘sweater weather’ sewing
patterns in my stash, the M7660 has to be
the one with the most sass! Version A has
a similar sleeve design as Version C of the
previously mentioned M7838 pattern, but
due to the amount of gathering required in
order to achieve the puff effect in Version
McCall's 7838 features a lot of
A, be very mindful about the weight of
volume gathered into the cuf
the fabric you select. You do need a jersey
fabric with good drape but not too heavy to
that it will weigh down the sleeves. Look for before cutting into your fashion fabric to
sweater knits and viscose-mix jersey. ensure that the circumference of the sleeves
perfectly fit around your arms and your
McCALL’S 7654 side bust is properly covered. Check out the
Let me throw in one more bold party design helpful video on McCall's YouTube channel
for good measure. This pattern comes with a www.youtube.com/user/mccallpattern
mix of shoulder and sleeve shoulder designs
and you must remember to create a toile
Shop for the McCall Pattern Co
designs shown, plus many
more at www.sewdirect.com
FIND OUT
MORE
Juliet has been sewing for five
years but was initially intrigued
when a dressmaker in Nigeria took
her measurements over the phone
and created her a bespoke dress.
She went on to win series 5 of The
Great British Sewing Bee, wowing
the judges and viewers at home
with her distinctive style, love of
jumpsuits and passion for sewing.
Follow Juliet’s sewing adventures
at www.sewsonatural.com and on
social media where her handle is
sewsonatural
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 17
 MACHINE REVIEW
Overlockers can give your garments a truly professional finish and
these models are definitely worth shouting about

Best for
QUICK AND EASY SET UPS
Model: baby lock Victory
We love: the Jet-AirTM Threading System
Price: £1,149
The new baby lock Victory machine may come with a hefty price tag but it more
than makes up for it in performance. If threading an overlocker seems more
complicated than sewing your first French seam, the Victory’s innovative Jet-AirTM
Threading System will save you heaps of time by threading the loopers for you!
We’re huge fans of the thread delivery system that automatically adjusts the thread
tension to complement the fabric you’re working on. See the entire features list at
www.babylock.co.uk

Best for Best for

BEGINNERS
LARGER PROJECTS
Model: Janome 9300DX
We love: the colour coded threading Model: Brother 3034DWT
Price: £269 We love: the free arm flat-bed
Price: £279
The Brother 3034DWT is ideal if you’re eager to access the
full capabilities of an overlocker machine. This intermediate
model includes a range of desirable stitch settings that make
sewing difficult fabric or intricate
areas on garments a breeze. The wide
table will enable you to position your
material correctly and should you be
sewing sleeves, cuffs or small clothing,
you can remove the flat bed to access
the free arm. There’s an instant
rolled and quick-changed-rolled hem
feature as well as an adjustable
foot pressure giving you greater
control as you stitch. See more
impressive machines from
The Janome 9300DX is hailed as the introductory model of choice Brother at
for those new to overlocking. It’s uncomplicated and practical www.sewingcraft.
functionality will enable you to become familiar with common brother.eu/en
overlock stitches and, when you’re feeling more confident,
experiment with different stitch finishes including a rolled hem.
Janome also makes threading this machine really simple thanks to
the colour-coded guidelines, there’s also a supporting CD should
you need help with the machine’s set up and features. Find out
more about this model at www.janome.co.uk

18 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 Use your

SHIFT
your
PATTERN

thinking
This dress is the perfect
wardrobe staple as
there are so many
options included to mix
and match! McCall's
patterns come with
helpful step-by-step
guides designed to
push your sewing
skills further

VIEW D
The essential shift dress!
This style never goes out of
fashion and works so well in a
range of fabric. We made the
ultimate day dress in a
fun print that works for so
many occasions!

We used
Hull Geo Borage printed
cotton voile, £29.95 per
3m metre bundle
www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 19
 The finished
garment
measurements
are printed on
the pattern
tissue. We
recommend
picking a size based on your bust
measurement and then adjusting
from there for the best fit

Subscribe
today to get a
McCALL PATTERN
COMPANY DESIGN
IN YOUR SIZE WITH
EVERY ISSUE!
See page 26
for details

VIEW B
Go bold! Make a
solid-coloured dress
with fun details, like
patch pockets and
safari tab sleeves

We used
Seven Veils linen-look
polyester in Flame,
£4.75 per metre
www.croftmill.co.uk

20 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 MASTERCLASS
SEEING VIEW C
This maxi length view
DOUBLE is perfect for layering,
has neat side slits for
ease of walking and still
has those all important
Double gauze comes in inseam pockets!
a range of fun
prints and colours and
has a floaty soft feel We used:
Double Gauze baby
fabric in gold star
Petrel, £5.25 per metre
WHAT IS DOUBLE GAUZE? www.empressmills.
In technical terms, gauze is a weave structure co.uk
in which the weft yarns are arranged in pairs
and are crossed before and after each warp
yarn, keeping the weft irmly in place. The
weave is actually fairly loose and, with a high
threadcount, is soft and lightweight.

It is usually quite sheer and because it

allows air to pass through freely, gauze is
perfect for clothing worn in hot and humid
climates or in bandages where the skin
needs to breathe. This is also referred to as
leno weave or cross weave.

However, it can also be rather impractical.

Gauze being a little see-through means
you may reveal more than you intend to
when wearing a gauze shirt for example
but thank goodness for the Japanese and
their clever invention of double gauze!

HOW IS IT MADE?
Double gauze is two layers of gauze that
are woven simultaneously on the loom. At
regular intervals (often about every 1-2cm),
a yarn from the top layer exchanges places
with a yarn on the bottom layer, efectively
basting the two layers together during the
weaving process. These basting yarns are
virtually impossible to detect from the right
side of the fabric, but the wrong side can
sometimes reveal them. The other way to see
the threads is to very carefully peel apart the
two layers along the cut edge and look for
the vertical stitches resisting your pull.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 21
Reader Review
McCall’s 7120
Barbara is the creator of the Seamstress Gauge available
at www.etsy.com/uk/shop/RockingStitch and a
member of vlogging team Pattern Pals. She shares
her version of this issue’s McCall’s pattern
L 
et’s first
talk about
the thing
we all love more
than chocolate,
kittens, tea
and sewing
combined:
fabric! I picked this beautiful
tencel jacquard from www.
sistermintaka.com and it made
my wildest fabric dreams come
true. It’s an incredibly soft medium
to heavy weight woven jacquard
with a beautiful drape. The colour
is absolutely amazing and I love
that it’s a tencel – yes to more
sustainable fabric. It's honestly
as soft as butter!
Now, onto the pattern... when I
first saw it I immediately thought
that the simple design was a blank
canvas that was in need of some
serious pattern hacking to make
it suit my style and wardrobe. I
decided to make a toile first and
that Version B was closest to the
‘vision’ I had. I sewed a size small
(which is one size smaller than the
size chart put me in) and when I
tried it on I wasn’t really expecting
to be wowed – yet.
But then I was wowed. It already
looked SO good! The fit was
nearly spot on, the neckline looked
beautiful and I loved the style on
me. It got me thinking; why would
Say hello to Barbara on Instagram at
I make big changes when
only a few minor ones would
already make the dress perfect?
And with this amazing fabric,
could less be more? I answered
yes and I’m so glad I did, I’m in
love with my dress!
So for my final version I ended
up doing a 1cm small shoulder
adjustment, I lengthened the
front by 4cm and the back by
8cm to create an uneven hem
with little side vents, I took the
dress in by 4cm at my waist
and graded out by 6cm at my
hips. I also made the sleeves
12cm shorter to make it sit just
above my elbows and last but not
least, I added the inseam pockets
from the other views.
This pattern would be perfect for
beginners as there are no fiddly
fastenings or tricky techniques
and the instructions are really easy
to follow. My top tip would be to
not miss Step 34 and take your time
gathering the cap of your sleeve
before you insert it, as the cap
includes quite a lot of ease. Then
just enjoy your lovely new dress!
In issue 78 Hayley of
Sew Hayley Jane reviews
McCall's 7906
rockingstitch
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23
 Use your

PATTERN

BRIGHT
& bold
Take a look at our newest
Threadcount pattern for
two stylish wrap dresses!
There are two sleeve
styles and two lengths
to choose from. Make
a sweet day dress or a
fancy version for your
next event!

VIEW A
Until spring arrives, stay cosy
in our snuggly dress with long
sleeves and a flared skirt, but
brighten things up with a sunny
print like these lemons!

We used
Sage Yuma Lemons Mist Knit
by Art Gallery Fabrics. Find your
local retailer at www.hantex.
co.uk/find-a-stockist.html

24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 VIEW B
How smart is the pencil skirt
version of View B? A delicate
print makes the dress feminine
while the shape is sharp.

We used
He Loves Me Abloom
jersey by Art Gallery
Fabrics, £23.99 per metre
www.minervacrafts.com

STABLE
STITCHING
Knit interfacing is an amazing product
that can improve the inish of your
stretch garment. There are two main
types to buy and they each have
certain uses:

Two-way stretch interfacing is easily

recognised by the visible chevron
weave. Like the name implies, it
stretches lengthwise and crosswise.
Using a multi-stretch interfacing gives
you the perfect amount of stability for
all parts of your garment.

One way stretch interfacing is helpful

for heavier knits and speciic places on
your garment. It will prevent the fabric
from stretching in one direction so
think carefully about which direction
you apply it. For example, adding it to
cufs and collars is perfect as they only
need to stretch one way, but generally
avoid necklines as they need to be
lexible to ensure you can get your
garment over your head!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 25
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 PATTERN

Wardrobe From the top

The Mathilde pattern
from Tilly and the

WINNERS
Buttons is the perfect
excuse to sew yourself
a floaty blouse with
plenty of pretty details.
The top features
shapely tucks down
Fill your wardrobe with stylish the front bodice and a
surprising button-back
garments that you can reach for opening so it’s a great
excuse to master some
on any occasion tricky techniques.
Priced at £14.50 in
sizes UK sizes 6-20

Denim’s dream
If you wish to marry denim fabric with a
chic pencil skirt, this would be our pattern
of choice. The Ellis Skirt by Cashmerette
promises a flattering finish with its fitted
waistband and two helpful shape options
(apple or pear). Choose between View A
[pictured] and add detailing with rivets,
belt loops and pockets or go shorter with
View B – a classic mini skirt with diagonal
pockets and fun top-stitching detail.
Priced at £16 in UK sizes 16-32

SAVE 20% on patterns at Sewbox, until 27th February, using the code LOVE20. Find a range of gorgeous
Liberty fabric, patterns and haberdashery at www.sewbox.co.uk

28 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Party on
It never hurts to have an extra party dress in your wardrobe, and we love the
timelessly stylish Sophia Dress pattern from By Hand London. The pattern
includes two options – the first, a vintage-inspired and romantic full-bodied
midi dress with a voluptuous paneled skirt and sailor’s collar. For something
sleeker, the second version offers a modern, fitted silhouette with dramatic,
angled darts. Priced at £14 in UK sizes 6-20
Layer it up!
For a stylish piece that you can reach for as you head out the door,
the Ellsworth Coat by Christine Haynes is the ideal everyday coat.
Inspired by the 1960s double-breasted classic, this pattern includes
a notched collar, deep patch pockets and topstitching to highlight
different elements of the garment. It’s ideal for confident beginners
or seasoned stitches looking for a blank canvas that they can make
their own. Priced at £14.95 in sizes UK 4-22

SAVE
20%
on patterns at
Sewbox with the
code LOVE20

The
Ultimate
Pair
With no fiddly
techniques to
master, the
Ultimate Trouser
pattern from Sew
Over It is a quick
afternoon project
– and we’ve no
doubt you’ll want
to make more
than one! Choose
from slim-fitting
trousers or shorts,
each fastened by
an invisible zip
and made using And relax
only four pattern Sometimes you just need an easy to throw-on dress that you can
pieces! Priced wear for any occasion. The Moana Dress/Top pattern from Papercut
at £15 in UK offers a relaxed fit with gentle shaping through the bodice. The dress
sizes 8-20 version includes shapely bust darts, optional gathered skirt and ties
at the back with an exposed zip. Priced at £15.99 in sizes XXS-XL
 We love
HOME
Pop of
MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• 7 10x20” fabric pieces
in rainbow colours
COLOUR
Appliqué is the perfect way to sew together
• 4 10x20” fabric pieces for all the colours of the rainbow to make this
background patchwork
• 1
⁄2 yard fabric for cushion back
super-happy cushion!
• 22”-square wadding
Project ANGELA LACKEY
• co-ordinating thread
for each colour
• 20” cushion insert
• fabric marking tool
• download templates at
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

CUTTING:
From rainbow fabric, cut:
Arch templates for each
corresponding rainbow piece
(See instructions for cutting
out arch fabric)
 
From cushion back fabric, cut:
20½x13” rectangle
20½x15” rectangle

NOTES:
Seam allowances are a scant ¼”
unless otherwise stated
Press all seams open unless
otherwise stated

HOW TO MAKE:
1 Fold red fabric in half along
the short length, and lay the
paper template on top with
the edge marked fold against
the fabric, then fold and pin
template in place. (See Pic A.)

Top tip
We used Icon Elements
by AGF Studio for Art
Gallery Fabrics. To
discover your nearest
supplier, search
www.hantex.co.uk/
mystockist

30 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 A B
C D
E F
2 Using the marking tool, mark
the outline of the template
on the fabric. Remove the
template, ensuring the fabric
stays folded together, then
re-pin fabrics together.
3 Cut out marked arch area,
trying to maintain smooth arch
edges, and not cutting along the
folded edge. (See Pic B.)
4 Repeat steps 1-3 for the
other seven rainbow fabrics and
corresponding templates. You
should now have seven rainbow
arches in decreasing sizes. Put
aside until Step 9.
5 Taking the 25 41/2” squares,
start with the colour that has an
extra square (7), and lay them
out in ive rows of ive.
6 Sew each of the ive rows
together, one at a time, nesting
the seams by alternating
pressing the seams left then
right in rows.
7 Sew all ive rows together to
create a 201/2” square.
8 Baste the wadding to the
back of the patchwork square.
Mark a line vertically down the
centre of the cushion, and a
horizontal line 51/4” up from
the bottom of the cushion.
(See Pic C.)
9 Open out the red, outer
arch so the folded line matches
up with the central, vertical
line, and the ends of the arch
sit on the horizontal line
(approximately 1” in from the
left and right edges). Ensure
the arch is smooth and aligned,
then pin in place. (See Pic D.)
Sew the arch in place, 1/4”
in from the outside edge,
ensuring you use a short stitch
(maximum 2), and go slowly
following the outside line of
the arch. Back-stitch at the
beginning and end, and trim
the thread ends.
Lay the orange arch on
top and inside of the red
arch, aligning the ends on
the horizontal line again,
and ensuring the central
fold line is on the horizontal
line. The two should
overlay by approximately 1/2”. and RS with the folded
Repeat Step 11 for the seam placed horizontally
yellow, green, blue, indigo across the centre area.
and violet arches in that order (See Pic F.)
(the pieces will be decreasing Place the other, larger
in size), to complete the rectangle, RS down,
rainbow. (See Pic E.) matched up with the
If you wish to bottom of the
add quilting
to the
background
area, do so
Top tip cushion top,
with the
inished seam
horizontally
The trick to sewing curves
at this stage. is to use plenty of pins! across the
Trim centre. There
Spray basting your fabric
the excess should be
can also help secure it in
wadding back a good overlap
place as you sew
to the 201/2” of the two fabric
top size. pieces. Pin in place.
Take the Sew around
two envelope backing the outside edges using
rectangles, and double-fold to a 1/4” seam.
the WS along one 201/2” edge Trim the corners to help
of each to create a neat edge. them maintain the points, and
Sew in place to secure the turn the cushion RS out through
edge fold. the envelope back, pushing the
Lay the cushion front RS corners out to make them as
up, place smaller envelope pointy as possible.
backing fabric piece RS down, Stuf with a cushion pad
aligning the top, and the left to inish!
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 31
 If you adore quilting and patchwork and love contemporary fabric, Quilt Now is your
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 Terrific
ABOUT
TOP-
WENDY GARDINER
As well as being Brand Ambassador
for The McCall Pattern Company,
STITCHING
Wendy Gardiner, Brand Ambassador for The
Wendy is a published author and
sewing teacher. Find her online
McCall Pattern Company provides her top tips for
courses at www.craftsy.com beautiful topstitching you’ll be happy to show off

Quite simply, topstitching is a stitch that is

meant to be seen on the surface of a garment
or project. Topstitching can be functional,
used to hold facings, linings and pockets
in place, or purely decorative. It can also
make seams more durable. As it is meant to
be seen, it can be stitched with a contrast
thread colour to make it a design feature, or
a matching thread for a more subtle finish.

Edge stitching is another version of

topstitching – again visible on the top of the
garment, but it is stitched much closer to
the edge and is more functional. It is usually
stitched in a thread to match the garment so
it is understated and stitched 2-3mm from
the edge. Slanted front pockets are often
edge-stitched.

TWIN NEEDLE TOPSTITCHING

Using a twin needle creates two perfectly
parallel lines of stitching at the same time.
You can get stretch and universal needles
and twin needles also come with different
gaps between the needles to suit different
fabric. For straight topstitching, a gap
of 3-4mm is great. For denim projects, try
a wide 6mm gap. For more decorative
topstitching, a narrow gap of 1.6-2mm
is better to allow both needles to move
sideways through the stitch sequence and
not hit the throat plate or presser foot.

Twin-needle topstitching creates a great

hem finish mimicking a cover stitch which
is often seen on ready-to-wear garments.
It has two perfectly parallel rows on the
right side of the garment, linked by a
zigzag-type stitch on the underside created
by the bobbin thread linking the two top
threads. Please remember to always stitch
from the right side of the garment when
twin-needle stitching for the correct result.
Subtle topstitching with matching threads
helps keep collars crisp (McCall's 7694) www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33
 TOP TIPS
1. For simple topstitching, use a thread
colour to match the fabric and a straight
stitch. Stitch approximately 6mm from
the edge, working from the right side of
the fabric.

2. Whenever possible, ensure straight lines

of stitching by using the edge of the presser
foot as a guide. With the fabric edge up
aligned to the edge of the presser foot, use
the stitch width button to move the needle
position right or left.

3. To make the topstitching stand out and

become a feature, use a contrast thread
colour in a topstitching thread (which is
thicker and thus the stitches will be more
pronounced) and a topstitch needle (which
has a larger eye for the thicker thread). If
you don’t have topstitching thread, attach a
second thread spindle, and put two threads
through the one needle to double up.

4. To emphasise your stitching further, use

a slightly-longer-than-usual stitch length,
such as 3mm.

5. For a decorative finish, use contrasting

thread and a decorative stitch. Try out the
stitches on scraps of the same fabric and
number of layers. A blanket stitch or feather
stitch look particularly good.

Strong with a high luster,

this thread is ideal for intricate
topstitching, decorative sewing, Make your garment really pop with
buttonholes and much more contrast-coloured topstitching, using a twin needle
for perfectly parallel rows (McCall’s 7996)

34 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
WHEN TO TOP-STITCH
• Add topstitching or edge stitching
to hold facings and linings in place. Did you
•
Edge-stitch close to the edge,
top-stitch about 6mm from the edge.
Use topstitching on bulky, springy
know?
All the patterns mentioned
fabric that has a tendency to roll out – here are available from
such as collars on coats and jackets. www.sewdirect.com
• Define seaming with a contrast topstitch
line adjacent to the seam.
• Hold seam allowances in place by
top-stitching 6mm either side of the
seam – such as on raglan sleeve garments
or sports garments.
• Turn a simple plain garment into a
designer original with twin-needle
topstitching in a contrast colour to
highlight pockets, seams, collars
and hems.
• Experiment with simple decorative
stitches for topstitching.

Using a twin needle creates

two perfectly parallel lines of
stitching at the same time

A simple, classic straight skirt is

given modern styling with contrast
topstitching (Butterick 6326)

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 35
 We love
STYLE

Feeling
LOOPY
Create a beautiful
blouse with a rouleau
loop neckline in this
fun tutorial. This
stylish project works
in cotton, viscose
and chambray
Project FIONA HESFORD
Sewgirl

Shopping list
Lady McElroy Evening Roost cotton in dark teal,
£16 per metre www.drapersdaughter.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 37
 A B

C D

E F

MATERIALS & TOOLS: NOTES:

• 1.5m of 140cm-wide or 2.1m
of 112cm-wide cotton lawn
or poplin
• 20cm lightweight fusible
interfacing
LAYPLAN: 140cm-wide fabric
• 8 or 9 dome-headed
SELVEDGES
10mm buttons
• 50cm of 1/4” (6mm) elastic cut
into two sections: size 8=15.5cm,
3
10=16cm, 12=16.5cm, 14=17cm,
16=17.5cm, 18=18cm,
1
20=18.5cm, 22=19cm
2
5 • co-ordinating thread
4 • small safety pin
FOLD • blunt-ended large eye needle
• reel of quilter's tape optional
• templates downloaded from
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
SIZING:
A 1.5cm seam allowance is used
throughout unless otherwise stated
HOW TO MAKE:
1 Sew the two darts on the
front piece. Press downwards.
2 Join the back pieces
RST. Finish the raw edges
together. Press.
3 On the front piece, mark a
16cm line to the marker point
(as shown on the template),
for the centre front opening.
Cut along this line.
4 With the RST, pin the front
to back at the shoulder edges.
Sew. Finish the raw edges.
Press. Top-stitch on the RS.

BODY MEASUREMENTS 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22

BUST 81cm 86cm 91cm 97cm 102cm 107cm 112cm 117cm

WAIST 64cm 69cm 74cm 79cm 84cm 89cm 94cm 99cm

HIPS 89cm 94cm 99cm 104cm 109cm 114cm 119cm 124cm

38 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 MASTERCLASS
ROULEAU
MATERIALS & TOOLS: ‘tube’. Leave a long thread
• strip of fabric end at one end.
• fabric marker 4 Trim a point at this end.
• 45° ruler Tie the thread end to a
• loop turner blunt-ended large-eye needle.
5 Push the needle into the
1 Mark and cut a strip tube and out the other end.
on the diagonal grain Pull gently so the fabric turns
(45°) of the fabric that inside out.
measures 50x25mm.

6 Press lat or gently roll

2 Fold the strip in half so the between your ingers so
long sides are RST. the seam allowance ills the
3 Sew a 1cm seam allowance centre neatly.
making approximately a 3mm

5 Pin the interfaced neck

facings RST at the short

edges. Sew. Press the seam
allowances open. Fold over
and sew a small 5mm hem all
around the outer raw edge of
the facing piece. Cut down
the centre front neck opening
line 16cm as shown on the
template (to match the front)
6 On the front piece, lay a
1/8” strip of quilter's tape at the
left inside edge of the centre
front opening. Peel of the
tape backing.
7 Pin eight or nine small
loops of rouleau all along the
raw edge of the centre
front neck opening at
even distance apart with
gaps of 1cm inbetween (loop
facing inwards).
8 Machine-tack to hold. Trim
the excess. (See Pic A.)
9 Pin the facing to the neck
edge all around, aligning
the side seams and centre
front opening edges. Stitch
all around the neck edge
Top tip!
Cut the quilter's tape in half
along the length to make it
thinner. You can of course
use pins instead of quilter's
tape if you prefer
only – not down the front
at this stage. Notch the
seam allowance with small
Vs and trim the cross seam
allowances to 5mm. (See pics
B and C.)
Stitch down the centre
front opening approximately
3mm (1/8”) from the raw
edge each side then across
and up the other side. Trim
the corners of the seam
allowance at the top edge.
Press the facing seam
allowance open. Fold the
neck facing to the reverse
side. Press, aligning the
fold with the seamline and
pushing out the corners.
Hand-stitch the facing to
the shoulder seam allowances
on the reverse side to secure.
Sew the front to back
body at the side edges. Finish
the raw edges. Press towards
the back.
Finish the sleeve at the cuf
raw edges. Fold the sleeve
piece RST aligning the raw
vertical side edges. Pin. Sew.
Finish the raw edge. Press.
Repeat for the other sleeve.
With the sleeve RS
outermost, pin to the body at
the armhole, aligning the back
sections as indicated on the
template. Hand tack stitch.
Sew. Finish the raw edge.
Press. Repeat with the other
sleeve piece. (See Pic D.)
Fold, press and pin a 1.5cm
single fold hem at the cuf
edge. Stitch, leaving a small
opening at the side for the
elastic. Cut the two pieces of
elastic to size and feed into
the cuf hem with a safety pin
attached to one end. Adjust
to it. Join the elastic. Feed
into the hem. Stitch up the
opening. (See Pic E.)
Finish the raw lower edge
of the front and back. Make a
2cm single fold hem.
Sew on eight or nine
buttons matching each loop
position. (See Pic F.)

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 39
40 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 full-bust
SPECIAL

THRIFTY
STITCHER
Claire-Louise Hardie shares her secret
method for quick jersey bust adjustments

opefully you’ve seen the full- and

H small-bust adjustments that are

permanently included in the magazine
(see page 64). Today, we’re taking a closer look
at full-bust adjustments (FBA) because the
traditional method doesn’t always work for
certain garments. Let’s say you want to make
a T-shirt, but maybe you don’t want to create
a dart to solve the it. Fear not, I have a clever
method for you!

To be honest, I have often found the classic

method for doing an FBA on a princess seam
unsatisfactory. It creates too much width and
length over the fullest part of the bust and
distorts the grainline of the side bust pane but
again, I have a little variation for you to try.

Before we get started though, how do you

know if you need a bust adjustment?
Sadly, there’s no exact science to measure how
much of a bust adjustment you’ll need, it very
much depends on the garment you’re making.
As a rough guide if your full bust is larger
than your high bust by 22” or more, you need
a bust adjustment.
• If making a loose-itting garment with
masses of ease like an oversized trapeze
dress, then you could skip making bust
adjustments.
• However, for more itted garments like a
dress with a tight bodice you may well need
some adjustment.
• Since pattern companies allow 2” ease for a
B cup, a good starting point is to subtract
your high bust measurement from your full
bust measurement, then subtract 2” from
the diference. Half of that igure is the
amount you need to add into the pattern
for a full bust. The Turner dress from
Cashmerette Patterns, £14.99
www.plushaddict.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 41
 EXAMPLE FBA YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Full bust measurement 97cm (38”)

High bust measurement 89cm (35”)

Difference minus 2” (This is what the pattern includes for B cup) 1.25cm (1⁄2”)

In the example above you would need to
add in a half inch full bust adjustment.
So, you may be wondering why this
formula creates a smaller FBA than you’ve
previously calculated. In my experience
fitting students and myself, the standard
calculation always creates too much
additional fabric around the bust area.
Since most patterns are cut for a B, we
should make some consideration for the
2” difference that’s already factored into
the pattern.
• Swing the side section away towards
the side, this splits the apex point.
When the two halves of the apex mark
reach the desired amount of bust
increase, ie ½" in my example, you
secure the opened out wedge above the
apex to the paper underneath.
• Draw a parallel line a ½" away from
the vertical cut line previously made.

METHOD 1 – DARTLESS
For this method we’re starting with the basic
principles of the commonly used FBA as
taught by the Palmer/Pletsch method in the
hit book Fit For Real People.
• Place your pattern over a sheet
of pattern paper to make a new
adjusted version.
• Mark the bust apex on your pattern if
there isn’t one marked already. You can
work this out either by measuring from
your shoulder to the bust, or by holding
the pattern piece against your body and
marking the position. • Cut through the blue line from the side
• Now draw a vertical line up to the apex, seam to the apex, this time leaving a
parallel with the centre front. Then draw hinge at the apex. This allows you to
a line from the apex to the armhole to swing the lower side piece onto the
aproximately two-thirds down the armhole. parallel line you drew. As it does so it
• Draw another horizontal line through will open out a side bust dart shape.
the apex at 90° to the first line. These • Trace the lower hemline of the piece
are our adjustment lines, I’ve used you just moved.
different colours to help later on. • Cut along the line from the centre front
• Cut along the first line, from the hem to the apex, this time separating the
to the apex and then out towards piece. Move apart until the hem is inline
the armhole. DON’T cut through the with the other side. Secure in place,
armhole (see pencil position), leave a tiny and ensure that the centre front line is
paper hinge. still perpendicular.

The Miranda Tee from Simple Sew

Patterns, £10 www.lovecrafts.com

42 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Up to this point is the classic full bust, • Trace around the perimeter of the the front until it’s the original width.
we now have extra length at the front and pattern and then mark the amount you
additional width across the front. BUT, I want to adjust the pattern by outside of
can hear you shouting that we also have a the armhole corner. It’s a good idea to
dart? Sometimes when you’re doing a large
bust adjustment even in jersey you’ll get a
better fit with a side bust dart, but since
I promised a dartless adjustment, here’s
what you do next!
• Cut through the apex on the side piece.
Keeping the vertical edge on the parallel
line you drew in, slide this piece up until
the dart is closed and the edges meet at
the side. The side seam is now shorter
than the traced line you drew in earlier,
so you need to blend this back towards
the lower front edge.
• Trace the side seam with the second
coloured pen.
• You’ll need to blend the hemline from
draw this as vertical line. the side seam down towards the front to
• Using either a pin or your finger, ensure it’s the same length as the back.
securely anchor the armhole end of the • When you place the pattern piece back
shoulder to the paper (this is a pivot into original place you can see that
point) Then slide the armhole out to you’ve got extra width at the side of
the side until it lines up with the mark the bust area.
you made.
• Using a different coloured pen, mark the
armhole shape. Note this hasn’t changed

The downside to this method is that it

in any way it’s just moved position.
• The underarm point of the armhole is
your next pivot point. Secure as before,
and then swing the hem back in towards
TA DAH- A dartless full bust adjustment
isn’t suitable for bigger adjustments as this
would distort the armhole shape, plus it
doesn’t address the extra length needed at
the front for fuller busts. However, it is a
great way to increase up to an inch or so.

METHOD 2 – DARTLESS
AND QUICKER
This method is only really suitable for
Claire-Louise says
smaller full bust adjustments, as it doesn’t Find great pattern drafting
add length to the front. It’s a pretty quick paper and supplies at
method, once you get used to the pivot and
slide technique. The other benefit is that www.williamgee.co.uk
your original pattern remains intact.
• Start with the pattern laid onto a fresh
sheet of paper as before.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 43
 ABOUT
CLAIRE-LOUISE
Claire-Louise is an author, pattern
designer, teacher and costumier.
Discover more at
www.thethriftystitcher.co.uk

We recommend Claire-Louise's online

course www.learntosewwithapro.
com/ultimate-beginners

Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British

Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric,
accompanied the third series of the show
and is priced at £20 from
www.quadrille.co.uk

METHOD 3 – PRINCESS SEAMS • The inal step is to walk the edges

Princess seams are great for bust of the two pieces and re-mark the bust
adjustments as they spread the shaping apex notch.
smoothly along a long seam line. With
a princess seam you can literally add
additional shape right where you need it.
You'll still need spare paper, a pencil and
scissors but you might ind this adjustment
quicker than adjusting darts!
Let's get started.
• Mark a line along the fullest part of the
bust on the centre and side front pieces

• Spread apart the centre front panel by

the same amount you increased the side
front. So, in this example we’re adding a
half inch. This will add additional front
BUST
length to the seam.
BUST • Fill in the space with paper, ensuring This method only adds additional width
the centre front remains perpendicular. directly over the bustline and not into the
• True the seamline into a smooth curve. waist and hip areas. Make sure to blend
between sizes in these areas before doing
this alteration if you need some extra
width in those areas.

I'm sorry we didn't cover small bust

adjustments in this session. FBAs are one
• Lay a piece of pattern paper under the of the most common things I'm asked
side front seam and secure. Mark the about but we can absolutely return to
amount to be adjusted away from the small bust adjustments another time.
bust point onto the paper.
• Use a French curve to redraw the side I hope these three tutorials are useful.
front seam-line, blending back into No one should feel like a great it is
original seam lines above and below beyond them and a dress that latters your
the bust. curves is achievable. If you'd like to learn
• Cut through the centre front panel along more, my 2020 sewing workshops dates
the drawn in bustline. will be announced soon.

44 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 MAGGIES CRAFT
WORKSHOP
Residential weekend courses set in the glorious scenery of North Yorkshire

Courses throughout the year in patchwork, quilting, sot furnishing, dress making, fabric
boxes and fabric landscapes. Delightful accommodation all on the premises. Good food,
excellent tuition, warm and friendly atmosphere, small groups, tailor-made to it
your requirements.
Now available - lovely self contained cottage for 2 on site, bring your partner!
For full details of courses contact: NOW
Maggie Martin taking bookings
for 2020
Tel: 01723 870660
Quarry Close Cottage, Quarry Road, Burniston, Scarborough, North Yorks YO13 0DJ
Website: www.maggiemartin.co.uk • Email: maggie@maggiemartin.co.uk
Beginners very welcome

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 45
 We love
STYLE

Thank the
CORD
A pencil skirt is a great
beginner pattern that
can be revisited in more
complicated fabric to
boost your skills. We
made ours in corduroy
–why not follow our
masterclass on page
92 and try this fun
fabric yourself?
Project CLAIRE GARSIDE
Simple Sew Patterns

Shopping list
Hot Pink multicoloured baby corduroy,
£8 per metre, www.fabricsforall.co.uk

46 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 C
A B

D E F

LAYPLAN:
60"-wide fabric FOLD
11
9

Top tip!
Invest in an overlocker
so your garments survive
10

12

many machine washes

and your seams
are robust!

SIZING:
FINISHED SKIRT LENGTH
WAIST HIPS
MEASUREMENTS FROM WAIST
8 28” 36” 21”
10  30” 38” 21”
12 32” 40” 21”
14 34” 42” 21” ham to press smoothly at the 9 Flip waistband facing over
16 36” 44” 21” hip area. (See Pic C.) to sit RST with the waistband
18 38” 46” 21” 6 Attach the lower edge of sandwiching the zipper.
the waistband RST with the Sew along the zipper again
20 40” 48” 21”
upper edge of the skirt. through all the layers. Trim
Match seam lines and the the top corners and turn back
centre front points. (See Pic D.) through to the RS.
Clip the seam allowance and Arrange the waistband on
press upwards. the inside of your garment so
MATERIALS & TOOLS: towards sides. (See Pic A.) 7 Pin the waistband facing to the folded edge of the facing
• 1.6m of 45”-wide or 1m of 2 Fuse interfacing to one set the waistband with RST and sits just over the waistband
60”-wide medium-weight fabric of waistband pieces. These matching the seamlines. Sew seamline. Pin in place.
• 30cm fusible interfacing will now be referred the then clip the seam allowance. On the RS of the garment
• 10” concealed zipper facing pieces. Press the seam allowance sew along the seam line
• co-ordinating thread 3 RST join front waistband towards the waistband. carefully, catching the facing
• templates downloaded from with back waistbands at the 8 Pin one side of the zip to as you sew. This is called
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk side seams. Press seam open. the corresponding side of the stitching in the ditch.
Repeat for the waistband skirt RST. The stopper should Complete the centre
NOTES: facing pieces. (See Pic B.) be positioned just below the back seam by sewing below
Use a 1.5cm seam allowance unless 4 Press up the lower raw waistband seam. The teeth the zipper to the hem with
otherwise instructed edge by 1cm to the WS. should sit 1.5cm from the RST. Press open the seam
5 RST attach front skirt to centre back edge. Sew in place allowance. (See Pic F.)
HOW TO MAKE: back skirts at side seams. with a zipper or invisible zipper Turn up the skirt hem by
1 Sew the waist darts on the Press the seams open. You foot. Repeat for the other side. 1cm, press and stitch in place
front and back pieces. Press may need to use a tailor’s (See Pic E.) to finish.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 47

The Simplicity
HACK-ALONG
This brilliant event from the team at Simplicity is
a fun opportunity to show off your creative skills
and win amazing prizes! Be inspired by these
hacks from your favourite bloggers
ABOUT
JOIN THE
HACK-ALONG
S
implicity Ltd in the UK
has chosen nine of the
most popular designs
from the pattern-hacking
range and is hosting an
exciting challenge, perfect for
letting your creativity shine.
Now the team is asking you to
get involved and sew a truly
unique garment using the
patterns from the selection.
Enter your make into one of
the three categories (daywear,
vintage, or party) before 31st
January for a chance to win.
There is an incredible range
of prizes up for grabs and
your favourite bloggers will be
posting each week to help get
you inspired.
Plus a contribution from
each of these patterns sold
in the UK will go towards
supporting The Eve Appeal
charity. Pick up a pattern at
your local retailer or online
at www.sewdirect.com
48 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
HOW TO
TAKE PART:
Hack using any of the nine selected
patterns. Mix pattern pieces from
this selection or create your own
pattern pieces. Share your makes
on social media and don’t forget to
use the hashtags below!
Daywear: Useful pieces you reach
for every day #hackalongday
Party: Dressed-up occasions, from
glam evening to smart wedding
#hackalongparty
Vintage: Influenced by your
favourite fashion decade
#hackalongvintage
You can also email your photos,
pattern number and category to
simplicityhackalong@icloud.com
Rumana
The Little Pomegranate
Rumana chose to hack the Simplicity 8888
dress, which has simple princess seams with
gathered side skirt panels. She extended the
cap sleeves to full length and added more
gathering to the sleeve head to balance out the
skirt panels. She also altered the length of the
skirt to create a midi dress version. Rumana
chose a luxurious Atelier Brunette crêpe
fabric from www.minervacrafts.com
and it shows all the details of this
dress beautifully.
www.thelittlepomegranate.co.uk/
simplicity-hack-along-x-
eve-appeal
Emily
Self Assembly
Required
It turns out Simplicity 8888 is a popular
pattern as Emily also chose to hack it.
She kept the dress design classic with a
round neckline and finished the skirt at
midi length. Emily swapped the sleeve and
drafted one with a big Bishop shape and
close-fitting buttoned cuff. The dress also
has waist ties added into the side seams,
which clinches in the waist. The fabric
is a floral viscose challis from
www.minervacrafts.com in a striking
multi-print and the finished dress is
stunning with lots of interest.
www.selfassemblyrequired.
co.uk/2019/12/12/simplicity-8888-
the-eve-appeal-hack-a-long
 SHOP OF THE

SEW EASY
Nantwich
This independent sewing shop stocks a wide range of fabric fun
and offers workshops, as well as an alterations service

Hi Barbara! Viscount, a British company that we

How are you have a very good relationship with.
and what are I personally have four different
you up to at the Silver Viscount machines and we
shop today? use Silver Viscount machines in all
Hi, I'm very our workshops.
well thanks!
At the moment Have you had any particularly
we are very memorable moments in store?
busy making We had a project we were working
crafts for until 1am, we were all suffering from
a couple hysteria, tears were rolling down our
of markets, faces with laughter. I actually filmed
which we love doing as we get to meet it and whenever any of us are feeling
like-minded people. down I play the video.

Tell us a bit about how you came to own
your own shop
I come from a long line of tailors,
seamstresses and pattern cutters. My mum,
Elsie, was a tailor and that is where I
learnt my trade. I worked for Bentley
Motors and an opportunity came up where
I could live my dream of owning my own
business; so, in 2012 Sew Easy was born.
I come from a long
line of tailors,
seamstresses and
pattern cutters
Which sewing machine would you
recommend for a beginner, or an
experienced sewist?
Our sewing machines of choice are Silver
What sets you apart from
other shops?
Sew Easy sells fabric, haberdashery,
sewing patterns and sewing
machines. We also provide bespoke
dressmaking and believe it or not,
car covers; a clothing and soft-
furnishings alterations service. We
run weekly sewing clubs on Monday
and Wednesday evenings where
people come along and sew their
own projects. On Saturdays, we run
workshops where we teach children
as young as seven how to sew.
We get great satisfaction every
time our attendees create a piece
of work they never thought they
could achieve. We have a great loyal
customer base and I guess this is due
to our expertise and attention to detail
and of course our love of sewing
and quilting.
Visit us!
SEW EASY
Is there anything new or exciting
coming up that you’d like to tell Witton Street
our readers about? Northwich
CW9 5AE
In 2020, we are hoping to run a sewing
retreat in Wales. We are planning the 07952 709910
content now so stay tuned. Search SewEasySewingShop
on Facebook

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 49
 Rutland Sewing
Unit 1a Rutland Village,
Ashwell Road, Oakham,
Rutland LE15 7QN
Tel 01572 756468
www.rutlandsewing.co.uk

Ample free parking

Very close to Picturesque
Rutland Water
Cofee shop on site
Classes and Workshops
Also Training for Sewing
machines, Pfaf embroidery
machines and Premier Plus
Software & all makes of
Overlockers

Open Tuesday to Saturday

9am – 5pm
Sunday 10am – 4pm
Closed Mondays

SHOP OPEN
Tues to Sat 10am - 4pm

We stock quality brands

including Liberty, Makower and
many more. Wide range of
notions, wadding and our own
kits/patterns.

Visit us at Unit 111, Bradley Fold Trading Estate, Bolton, BL2 6RT
07936 752993 | www.fletcherspatch.co.uk

To advertise please contact

Noune on 0161 474 6997
or email noune.sarkissian@
practicalpublishing.co.uk

50 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 The Dressmaker's
With Elisalex
DIARY
In this issue Elisalex is answering that classic
question: what do you do when you’ve lost
your ‘sewjo’?

L
osing your sewing mojo
aka ‘sewjo’ can be quite
distressing. This dilemma
happens to me about twice a
year without exception, yet still
I find it hard to see it coming.
It might start with a little run of
sewing fails, leaving me feeling
deflated and uninspired. Or
maybe I’ll find myself sewing
exclusively for work – samples
and toiles and stuff that I don’t
get to keep – and suddenly I’ll
realise how long it’s been
since I had the joy of sewing
for myself.

While it can feel like a drag

when you lose your drive to
sew, I try to think of it as the
calm before a new beginning.
A time to enjoy the stillness,
reflect, look forward, make
lists, set intentions and, most
importantly, remove all the
pressure to perform and create,
which we all too often pile
upon ourselves. I think that
this can be applied across the
board, whenever we feel like
we’ve gotten stuck in a rut.

The following tips are more

than just a way to kickstart your
sewjo – they’re a way to create
the space and clarity for fresh
inspiration to come your way.
I hope you find them helpful,
but if you think of any extra
suggestions please do let me
Top tip!
know on social media! Here’s
Boost your skills
to a fabulous new year of by taking a class
creative sewing. with Elisalex

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 51
 RECLAIM AND RESTORE
YOUR SEWJO
 Tidy and organise your sewing space.
Clutter does not equal clarity, and a good
spring clean will clear out the dust bunnies
in your mind, as well as those under your
sewing table! Arrange your thread into a
rainbow, sort through your fabric stash,
reorganise your patterns… you may
even find that you rediscover some
forgotten gems!
 Go fabric and haberdashery shopping –
in person, not online – and treat yourself to
something special, and by special, I don’t
necessarily mean expensive here – set
aside whatever you can afford and simply
make a point of getting yourself a present!
That pattern you’ve been wanting forever,
a couple of metres of Liberty lawn that you
know you’ll treasure, or a handful of vintage
buttons. The important thing here is to
make a big deal of it. You’re taking yourself
out, for you. Spend some quality time in
your favourite haberdashery shop, stroking
the fabric, leafing through new pattern
releases, flicking through books, allowing
the inspiration to wash all over you.

A clean and tidy space invites new ideas

 Make something that you’ve made
and loved before (aka, the quick fix).
Even if you don’t really need
another tie-front tank
top (I’m looking at
you, Hunter Tank
sure you fully credit your muse when
you post your inspired make online –
chances are, she’ll be so flattered to
have been such an inspiration to
someone else,
that in turn she will feel

An easy make like the Hunter Tank
will be quick and successful and can
boost your confidence
Top tip!
by Jennifer Lauren more inspired and
Vintage), you confident in herself, and
can sew it with voilà, you’ve made the
your eyes shut world a better place by
Find the By Hand
and with one spreading some love!
hand tied behind
London sewing planner  Have a sketching session
your back, and at www.byhand while looking over your
you know that it’s london.com favourite fashion magazines/
going to fit right and Pinterest/Instagram. Our PDF
be a welcome addition sewing planner has transformed
to your wardrobe. It’s a small but the way I plan out my makes. I use the
guaranteed win, and that’s always croquis pages to sketch mini collections,
a good thing. cut them out and arrange them in my
 Copy something that someone else bullet journal, accompanied by pretty
has made – we all have a sewing-style little fabric swatches. I may not end up
crush who’s one iteration of that cult making everything I sketch, but it’s a
pattern we’ve screenshotted more than great exercise in getting the creative
once without realising, am I right? So, juices flowing!
instead of just drooling over it, and  Similar to the above, plan with
feeling bad that you’re not as effortlessly purpose. Penning a monster list of all
chic as she is, make it for yourself in the things you want to make can feel
the same pattern and same fabric. It’s a productive at first, but in actual fact will
sure-fire win, and one that might even probably just wind up overwhelming
help you to discover a whole new angle you, and making you feel bad when
to your own personal style. Just make you’ve only gotten a quarter of the way

52 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

through it a year later. Instead, look
ahead about four months and pinpoint
two or three main events or occasions
that you’d like to sew for. Your birthday,
a school reunion, that killer May bank
holiday party your bestie throws every
year. Plan your outits carefully and
thoughtfully and enjoy taking your time
over them, as opposed to frantically
sewing a new frock the night before,
and having to wear it the next day
knowing that the hem of your lining is
actually being temporarily held in place
by duct tape… #beentheredonethat
7 Build on your skill set by taking a
course. Online or oline – both have
their pros and cons. Online courses
are more economical: you can work at
your own pace and they are great if you
don’t live near a good haberdashery or
sewing school. IRL courses are certainly
more spendy, but will get you out of the
house and into a creative environment
where you’ll be forced to sew! You’ll
most likely make some new sewing
friends along the way. Which brings
me to the next point:
8 Start a sewing circle. Having a small
network of local buddies who share
your love of sewing does wonders.
You could agree to meet one Sunday
a month, alternating between each
of your homes and setting up your
machines around the dining table, as
you natter and stitch the day away.
You could hold fabric swaps, go on
fabric shopping jaunts together and
even have a WhatsApp group for
that constant low of sewing banter
that your other friends just don’t
understand. Then when you get into
a sewing rut, they’ll be there to help
ease you back out.
Moral of the story: losing your sewjo
isn't always a bad thing. As with most
Planning with purpose can get
you excited to start making again
things, a little positive reframing of the
situation turns a rut into an opportunity.
An opportunity to reassess, level up and
add new layers to your sewing practice.
A time for renewed inspiration and a
refreshed sense of purpose – which
can only ever be a good thing!
ABOUT
ELISALEX
Elisalex is the head of design and
co-founder of By Hand London, an
independent pattern company. It
produces gorgeously designed, high-
quality patterns that are available
as PDF downloads through the site
www.byhandlondon.com
 SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY
AYRSHIRE
Allison’s Craft
Emporium
Excellent Range of Craft Cottons
Dressmaking fabrics
Buttons Ribbons Lace
Haberdashery Wool
21 Lainshaw Street
Stewarton Ayrshire KA3 5BY.
01560 429 312
allisonscraftemporium@outlook.com
www.allisonscraftemporium.com
BRISTOL
CHESHIRE
All Fabrics
Top quality designer quilting
and dress fabrics.
Available in friendly store and on line.
61, Grosvenor Street,
Stalybridge, Cheshire, SK15 2JN
0161 487 8236
www.all-fabrics.co.uk
CORNWALL
Welcome to my cabin in
the woods. An exciting
new shop in Cornwall.
Free parking and an
amazing café across the
car park.
Patchwork Dreamer
By the Chapel,
Fletchersbridge,
Bodmin. PL30 4AN
TEL 07460313777
www.PatchworkDreamer.co.uk
54 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
BEVERLEY
Sewing supplies & fabrics all under
one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry
Burton is one of the leading fabric
stockists in the area. Visit our store
today and you will ind exactly what
you are looking for.
Bernina and Janome stockists
The Courtyard, Burton Mount,
Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton,
Beverley, HU17 7RA
info@northbarfabrics.co.uk
Call: 01964 551 955
BRISTOL
CHICHESTER
The Grange, Palmer Place,
North Mundham, Chichester
West Sussex PO20 1JW
01243 696670
www.thelittlehouseofpatchwork.co.uk
littlehouseofpatchwork@gmail.com
open: Mon-Fri 9.30-4pm
Sat 9.30-12
Fabrics, workshops,
DIY Longarm service, retreats,
sewing machine servicing
CUMBRIA
BRISTOL BRISTOL
Visit us in store or online
to see our range of Dress Fabrics,
Patchwork Fabrics from Makower, Moda,
Riley Blake and many more, plus knitting
yarn and haberdashery.
19 Badminton Road
Downend
Bristol BS16 6BB
Tel. 0117 329 3857
www.fabrics-plus.co.uk
info@fabrics-plus.co.uk
BURTON UPON TRENT CANTERBURY
Debby's Patch Haberdashery,
Fabric and sewing supplies. A sewing emporium for all
A must visit for all sewing enthusiasts, your creative needs
new starters and professionals.
Stockists of Simplicity, Prym, Clover, Fabulous fabrics, workshops,
Hemline, Trimits, Mettler, Quilt as you go, sewingmachines,yarn,&haberdashery!
Tilda, Bonfanti, Mouline, Mrs H, a wide
range of fabrics, Rolldove Studio and
Made by Debby. Check our website, on-line shop
Open Tuesday - Saturday 10 - 4 NOW LIVE!
Plenty of parking and refreshments
available on site www.thesewingshopcanterbury.co.uk
Unit 5, Craythorne Farm, Craythorne Road, 01227 457 723
Stretton, Burton upon Trent, DE13 0AZ 19 Sun Street, Canterbury,
07917 728 701 Kent, CT1 2HX
www.debbyspatch.co.uk
CHORLEY CLITHEROE
CUMBRIA DERBYSHIRE
The Sewing Barn stock a range of beautiful high
JUST SEW quality fabrics, Lewis & Irene, Michael Miller,
Poets Walk, Penrith, Cumbria, Riley Blake etc. Sewing accessories and books.
CA11 7HJ A variety of sewing workshops are listed
on our website.
Tel: 01768 866791 A warm, helpful, friendly welcome guaranteed.
• A real aladdin’s cave of fabric just Plenty of free parking!
waiting to be made into something Home Farm Studios. Nr, Ashbourne,
gorgeous! Derbyshire, DE6 3AY
We stock a wide range of patchwork 01335 360211
and dress fabrics as well as carol@the-sewingbarn.co.uk
haberdashery, patterns and threads. www.the-sewingbarn.co.uk
www.justsewpenrith.co.uk
 SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY
DORSET
HALIFAX
The Fabbadashery
Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful
Buttons and Truly Scrumptious
Trimmings.
Craft Workshops Every Week!
hello@thefabbadashery.com
www.thefabbadashery.com
01422 647574
10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX
HARROGATE
is an independent fabric
shop on the outskirts of
the beautiful spa town of
Harrogate in North Yorkshire.
We specialise in linens, wools,
cotton lawns and silks, we
like to use
local suppliers where possible
and are known for our
customer service.
We ofer weekly sewing
classes for all abilities call or
check the new website.
www.inefabricsofharrogate.co.uk
inefabricsofharrogate@gmail.com
LEICESTERSHIRE
Rutland Sewing
Rutland Garden Centre
Ashwell Road, Oakham, LE15 7QN
01572 756468
rutlandsewing.co.uk
Free parking. Well stocked with
patchwork and quilting fabrics and
accessories, dress fabrics , patterns,
classes and workshops. Open
seven days a week. Café on site
DUMFRIES
Romy's Sewing Rooms
For all your haberdashery needs.
Sewing classes for all ages
and abilities.
180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ
01387250867
romyssewingrooms@gmail.com
www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms
HAMPSHIRE
• Haberdashery
• Workshops
he Stables,
he Vine,
High Street,
Stockbridge,
Hampshire,
SO20 6HF
hello@bobbinsewingschool.com
www.bobbinsewingschool.co.uk
HEREFORD
Badder Fabrics
of Hereford
One stop shop for all your
dressmaking needs
Patterns, fashion and bridal
fabrics, dressmakingand
alterations service
Husqvarna sewing machine sales and
repairs on all models
Taking part in the Shop local
giveaway campaign
36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU
Tel 01432 379137
Email: badderfabric@gmail.com
LINCOLNSHIRE
A gathering place for friends,
fabric and inspiration
Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes
Gorgeous dressmaking
and patchwork fabrics available
in store and online
Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs
PE10 9NE
01778 420464
www.gathernsew.co.uk
ESSEX
And Sew On Fabrics
Fabrics, Haberdashery, Pre-Cuts,
Books, Patterns, Panels
Tuesday - Saturday 10-5 Sunday 10.30-4
Unit 12 Blake House Craft Centre,
Blake End, Rayne, Essex, CM77 6SH
01376 346 532
www.andsewonfabrics.com
info@andsewonfabrics.com
HAMPSHIRE
SEW BUSY
Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake,
Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann,
Dashwood and others. Buttons,
haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts
and craft workshops.
Unit 18c The Hart Centre,
Fleet Road, Fleet GU51 3LA
Tel: 01252 444220
www.sew-busy.co.uk
JERSEY
Exciting fabrics, trims and sewing essentials.
Gift vouchers. Janome machines. Sewing and
creative classes for students and adults of all
levels. Genuine Jersey handmade gifts.
www.rachelstextilesstudio.com
www.facebook.com/rachelsTextilesStudio
www.instagram.com/rachelstextiles
twitter.com/RTextilesStudio
01534 878 877
LINCOLNSHIRE
Owls Fabrics
& Wool Shop
Quality fabrics for quilting, dress making,
and various textile crats.
We sell paterns from Vogue,
Simplicity and Buterick, and a
colourful selection of felting ibres.
12 Corn Market, Louth,
Lincolnshire, LN11 9PY
Email: owlsfabrics@btinternet.com
Tel: 01507 - 600774
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery
Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns
Weekly Make Space Group
39 Parsonage Street
Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG
www.inchesfabrics.co.uk
HAMPSHIRE
LANCASHIRE
Victorian Arts and Crafts
Famous for our friendly help and advice
Find us at
8 Blackpool Old Rd
Poulton-Le-Fylde
FY6 7DH
01253 883685
Patchwork and Quilting Fabrics,
Threads. Cutters Rulers etc
Cross Stitch, Tapestry, Knitting, Crochet
Give us a ring and get 10% of your
order when you give this promotion
no: 2746
Email: victorianshop@talktalk.net
Facebook: Victorian Arts and Crafts
LISKEARD
.PAINTERS.
We stock fabric from Moda, Stoff, Lewis
& Irene, Makower, Kaffe Fassett, and Free
Spirit with threads from Gutermann, Mettler,
Madeira and Marathon. We have Jacquard
dyes and paints, Pebeo and lampshade kits.
Felting supplies, haberdashery, children’s
crafts, Woodware and Hunkydory papercrafts.
Art materials from Winsor & Newton, Liquitex
and Faber Castell.
7 Fore Street, Liskeard, PL14 3JA
01579 347 237
www.craft-box.com
painters@craft-box.com
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 55
 SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY
LONDON
Let us teach you the Art of Sewing.
With a variety of Bespoke
Tailoring, Pattern Cutting and
Garment Making courses, we can
help tailor your sewing future
Telephone 07399249471
Facebook SKB Tailoring and
Training Centre
Email skbtailoring@gmail.com
We make learning easy
SCARBOROUGH
Dressmaking fabrics and Haberdashery
Husqvarna Viking sewing machines.
21 Gladstone Road, Scarborough, YO12 7BQ
www.materialmoves.co.uk
01723 377 289
SOUTHAMPTON
Fabulous fabrics for patchwork,
dressmaking & crafts.
2 Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road
Dibden Purlieu, Southampton
Hampshire SO45 4PX
Tel; 02381 783386
Monday – Friday 9-5pm
Saturday 9-4pm
www.newforestfabrics.co.uk
STAFFORDSHIRE
The Sewcial Studio
80 Watling Street, Wilnecote,
Tamworth, Stafs, B77 5BJ
Ofering a warm friendly welcome,
supplying quality fabrics for
dressmaking and quilting. Weekly
sewing sessions
Weekend workshops
Elna/Janome stockist
Machine servicing and repairs
Bespoke commissions undertaken
thesewcialstudio.co.uk
56 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
NORFOLK
SCOTLAND
Pembertons
OF STIRLING
We sell and service a wide range of
sewing machines plus accessories
and parts. We also have a fantastic
range of dress and craft fabrics and
sell Simplicity & New Look patterns.
Our Haberdashery department has
everything from buttons to bows.
Please ask if you are looking for
something special.
www.psmc.co.uk
01786 462993
21-25 Friars Street, Stirling, FK8 1HA
SOUTH WALES
TEWKESBURY
NORTHWICH PRESTON
The Sew Easy
Sewing Shop www.sewcreative.org.uk
Need haberdashery in Northwich? fabulous fabrics, haberdashery,
Look no further than Sew Easy! We’ve Welcome toworkshops
my lovely& more
craft emporium!
a huge selection of fabric, needlecraft, We have lots of crafty goodies for sale
20-22 Lavant Street, PETERSFIELD,
sewing machines, patterns, and however support, inspiration and the
Hampshire, GU32 3EW
haberdashery products. service with a smile are free!
T: 01730 858020
Open 9.00am - 5.30pm
80 Witton Street, Northwich, E: info@sewcreative.org.uk
Cheshire, CW9 5AE Monday to Saturday
07952709910 68 Berry Lane, Longridge,
Preston, PR3 3WH
01772 780 883
www.seweasysewingshop.co.uk
www.itsofsewcrafty.com
SHEFFIELD SHROPSHIRE
An independent, family-run sewing store in Sheield.
We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Craft Cotton
Company, Kafe Fassett and Tula Pink, as well as a good
range of reasonable priced budget cottons.
We also ofer classes in a variety of crafts, from patchwork A warm welcome and a friendly smile are
to dressmaking, printing on fabric to needle felting. guaranteed when you shop with us!
We stock fabulous fabrics, yarns, and
1a Arundel Road,
haberdashery, and offer a variety of
Sheield,
workshops for all abilities.
S35 2RB
0114 245 5996 24 St Mary’s Street, Newport,
handmadehappyhare@ Shropshire, TF10 7AB
yahoo.co.uk 01952 814 962
zigzags@hotmail.co.uk
www.handmadehappyhare.com www.zigzagsonline.co.uk
ST AUSTELL STAFFORDSHIRE
1 Biddicks Court,
St Austell, PL25 5EW
Tel: 01726 75385
Email: sewandfabric@yahoo.
co.uk
Find us on Facebook
To advertise please contact Noune on
0161 474 6997
or email noune.sarkissian@practicalpublishing.co.uk
 Pretty sewing goodies, patterns, tools and the chance to win
some gorgeous fabric from your favourite suppliers

WIN
a pair of tickets to the
10
to win!
Craft4Crafters Show
Enjoy a crafty day out at the Bath and West
Showground, Craft4Crafters Show in Shepton Mallet,
Somerset. Love Sewing is giving away 10 pairs of tickets
to this coveted event which takes place over three
days (2nd-4th April 2020) and welcomes a plethora
of exhibitors as well as a range of exciting workshops,
textile displays and competitions. The Bath and West
Showground promises to be the biggest event yet so
whether you want to learn something new, stock up
on some crafting goodies or simply wander around the
stunning displays, there’ll be something for everyone
to enjoy.

For all the latest updates and for more information,

visit www.craft4crafters.co.uk. Travel to the event is
not included.

WIN A TOTE BAG 6

to win!
We know, we’ve just helped you find your new, favourite
shopper! We have six of these hessian bags to give away!
Whether you’re ferrying groceries or crafty supplies you
won’t want to leave the house without this sturdy tote.
RRP: £16.68, for stockist information email
groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

Turn over for many more

discounts & pri zes
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 57
 WIN PATTERNS AND
Exclusive discounts
SAVE 20% on fabric at Sew Creative.
A VOUCHER FROM See page 90 for details.

ON TREND FABRICS SAVE 20% on patterns at Sewbox.

See page 28 for details.
Love Sewing has teamed up with the fabulous team at On Trend
Fabrics to give one lucky reader the Rosa Shirt and Shirt Dress
pattern and the Nora Top pattern from Tilly and the Buttons
along with a £30 voucher! Tilly’s patterns come with helpful
step-by-step guides, photographic instructions and are available in
UK sizes 6-20. Match your pattern with the perfect fabric by using
WIN a bundle of
your £30 voucher on the range of gorgeous fabrics available at
www.ontrendfabrics.co.uk
vintage patterns
Who doesn’t love navigating their style towards
retro? We have two gorgeous sets of vintage
style patterns to give away to two lucky readers!
Each winner will receive the Vogue 9187 Misses’
Jewel or Scoop Neck Princess-Seam Tops, the
Vogue 8788 Misses’ Back-Wrap Dresses and
the Butterick 6318 retro dress patterns. These
patterns are perfect for all levels of stitchers
looking for an extra special garment that oozes
timeless style. Suitable for UK sizes 6-22. See
more inspiring patterns at www.sewdirect.com

Worth
over
£80!

WIN A SEWING KIT

FROM HEMLINE
WIN a copy of Sewing
Basics for Every Body to win!
3
We have three copies of the
brand-new book from designer
and teacher Wendy Ward to
2
to win!
give away! Sewing Basics for
Every Body cleverly collates 20
timeless garments that will enable
you to create your own capsule
If you’ve just started sewing and you need some
wardrobe. The functional and
essentials to help get you started, or you simply
stylish pieces transcend gender,
want to refresh your kit, we have two Complete
age and body shape so whether
Sewing Kits from Hemline to give away! The nifty
you’re sewing pieces for yourself,
sewing box comes replete with essential utensils
friends, or family, it’s a handy
including thread, scissors, needles, safety pins,
project book to have to hand.
seam ripper, chalk and much more! RRP: £28,
Sewing Basics for Every Body is
Hemline products are available nationwide from
published by CICO Books and
fabric, haberdashery and sewing stockists. For
available for £12.99 from
stockist information email
www.rylandpeters.com groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

58 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 Dressmaking
Patterns Keeping
You Up To Date
With Catwalk
Trends
Use Code LOVESEW at checkout
to get 10% OFF

www.trendpatterns.co.uk

We are an independent online fabric store

and stockists of quality quilting fabrics from
brands such as Art Gallery Fabrics,
Timeless Treasures, Craft Cotton Company,
Makower and many more.
www.cornflowercrafts.co.uk
www.facebook.com/cornlowercraftscouk
Instagram: cornlowercraftscouk

60 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• 10”-square fabric for triangles
• 10”-square fabric for
background/backing
• 4x12” medium-weight woven
fusible interfacing
• 2x6” fusible wadding
• 0.5m of 10mm-wide elastic
CUTTING:
From triangles fabric, cut:
6 2½x1½” rectangles
For background/backing, cut:
12 1½” squares
2½x6½” rectangle
From medium-weight woven
fusible interfacing, cut:
2 2x6” rectangles
NOTES:
Use a ¼” seam allowance
throughout unless
otherwise stated
Finished size: 2x6”
HOW TO MAKE:
1 Take the 12 1½” squares
of background fabric
We love
HOME
Read more
BOOKS
Unwind with this
sweet bookmark
and settle down for
some winter reading.
Why not mark your
favourite page of Love
Sewing for another
read later?
Top tip!
Project ANGELA LACKEY
This is a great stash busting
project as it only requires a
small amount of fabric!
and draw a Surely you must have together, in a
diagonal line something to use? top-to-bottom
across the back row, all pointing
of each one. in the
(See Pic A.) same direction.
2 Take the irst triangle 8 Fuse the woven
fabric and lay it down, interfacing to the back of
RS up. Align one of the the triangle block and the A
background squares on top, backing fabric.
RST, with the drawn line 9 Fuse the wadding to the
running from top centre to WS of the triangle block.
bottom-left corner. Place the front and back
3 Sew along the drawn pieces RST, sew around all
line. Trim the fabric ¼” four sides, leaving a 1½”
outside of the seam. gap across the bottom side
(See Pic B.) and ensure you back-stitch
4 Open out the background either side of the gap to
fabric and press. secure it.
B
5 Repeat steps 2-4 aligning Press the fabric back
the background fabric with along the gap to help get
the top right of the triangle, a straight line once it is
and the diagonal line turned out.
crossing over the previous Trim all four corners of
one from top centre to fabric to help reduce bulk.
bottom-right corner. Turn the rectangle RS
(See Pic C.) out, carefully pushing out
6 Repeat these steps to all of the corners and give it
create the remaining ive a good press.
triangle blocks. Top-stitch 1/8” around all C
7 Sew the triangles four sides to inish.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 61

Claire-Louise Hardie
PATTERN CUTTING LINE
Each line relates to a different size for the
garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on
a pattern sheet so you can either follow
a single cutting line throughout or blend
carefully between sizes to achieve a
better fit.
Shows you how to...
READ A PATTERN
CIRCLE DOTS
These marks indicate construction details,
such as zipper position, pleating, or the
end-of-stitching line, as set out in the
instructions. Some pattern companies
will use triangles or squares in place of
circle dots.
GRAINLINE
The arrow on the pattern piece must be
‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric
BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
so that it can hang, move and stretch
The placement for a button is
correctly. The grainline must always be
marked with an X. The placement
parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished
for a buttonhole is marked with
edges) of the fabric.
an edged line.

TUCKS/PLEATS
PLACE ON FOLD LINE
Transfer any tuck lines marked on the
This edge of the pattern piece is to be
pattern pieces to the RS (right side) of
placed on the fold of your fabric, making
the garment. Follow directional arrows
it easy to cut out a mirror image at the
where given.
same time.

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS
These explain how to lay each piece onto
the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces
will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on
the envelope. Remember to follow along
with the correct view and size. Don’t
forget to take care with directional prints;
you wouldn’t want a floral-print top with
all the flowers upside down.
DARTS
Parts of the fabric to be folded for
shaping, usually located at the bust,
waist and neck.
NOTCHES
Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at
each notch location, within the seam
allowance. These marks are used to
match pieces together before sewing.
LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE
This indicates exactly where to
shorten or lengthen the pattern
piece or garment to make changes
for improved fit.
ABBREVIATIONS
SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE)
Every project you sew has a set seam
allowance. This is the distance between
where you sew and the raw edge of
the fabric – essentially an invisible line
around each pattern piece. These lines
are occasionally included on vintage
patterns. You must sew at the seam
allowance in order for the pieces to
line up correctly. Most commonly this
is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in
case smaller allowances are being used.
Sewing machines have marks for the
seam allowance to the right side of
the presser foot.
RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT)
Instructions for placing right sides of
fabric together will be written as RST.
WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK)
Instructions for fusing interfacing to
the wrong side of fabric will be written
as WST.
ESSENTIAL STITCH SETTINGS
Zigzag finish Pinking shears finish Topstitched finish

(WS) (WS) (WS)

French seam first seam

allowance
Overlocker finish

the centre fold

(WS) of the first seam
becomes the
outside edge

Hong Kong finish

stitch seam fold over then stitch
allowance only in the ditch
bias tape
ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT
BUST ADJUSTMENTS A B

First, you need to work out how much

additional space you require around the
bust or what you’d like to remove. Here is
1/3
a helpful chart to work out the amount: 1 1
2
apex
Small Full bust
bust example 2
example
Full bust
33” 38”
measurement 3
3
High bust
32” 35”
measurement
Difference
1” 3”
C D
1/2” SBA = 11/2” FBA
Adjustment half the = half the
difference difference

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D) 1

2
 Lay the tissue pattern against yourself
to establish where your bust point is. Mark
onto the pattern with a cross.
 Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical
line from the marked point to the hem.
3
Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline
on the pattern.
 From this line, draw a second line up
towards the armhole, hitting the lower third
of the armhole. Together, these lines are
called Line 1.
You’ll notice that your dart has now spread been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third
 Draw a second line horizontally through apart too and become bigger. line you drew and overlap until your hem
the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 is level.
 The lower edge of your hem no longer
at the bust point.
meets at the bottom, as the side that has
 Draw a third horizontal line a little been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third
E
above the hem between Line 1 and the line you drew and spread apart until your
centre front of the pattern. hem is level.

 Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the
armhole, making sure not to cut all the
way through the armhole. Leave a hinge
so you can pivot the paper. The point of
the dart has now swung away from its
original position.
 Cut through the line in the middle of
Fill in the spaces created with tracing
paper and stick into place.
SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E)
 Draw in the lines as per an FBA
adjustment. This is essentially the same
process in reverse. lap

the dart, again leave a little hinge at the

tip of the dart so you can pivot.
 Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so
they’ve been spread apart by the amount
of your FBA. The edges should be parallel.
 Swing the darted side of the
pattern across the other side by the
desired SBA amount.
 The lower edge of the hem no longer
meets at the bottom, as the side that has
 BACK ADJUSTMENTS
A B C D
Some patterns will come with an
adjustment line for a narrow or broad back
drawn on. If your pattern doesn’t, you can
easily do this yourself.

NARROW BACK (FIGS A-C)

 Draw a vertical line down from the
shoulder, 3cm from the armhole, to just
below the bottom of the armhole. Draw
a second line at a right angle from
this point.
 Cut along the two lines, and slide the
armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick
in place. A small ¼” adjustment is often
enough. Play around with this amount as
you develop your fitting skills.
 Use a ruler and pencil to true up and
re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam.
Because we have only adjusted the upper
back, the fit should remain the same
around the waist. (See the orange lines
on Fig B.)
 You’ll now need to make the front
shoulder width a little shorter. Line up
the notches on the shoulder ensuring the
neckline is lined up. The front width will be
a little longer than the newly adjusted back
shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from
the back around the front, trimming a little
of the front armhole away. Don’t forget to
make sure your new curved line is smooth
at the shoulder.
BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT ensuring the neckline is aligned. Draw a
(FIGS D AND E) curved line from the back shoulder down
towards the front armhole, adding a sliver
 Start in the same way as a narrow back to the front shoulder and armhole. Check
adjustment drawing the two lines and
that you’ve drawn a smooth line over
cutting along them. the shoulder.
 Instead of overlapping the cut pattern
pieces, spread them. As before there are E
no hard and fast rules, but with a broad
back a ¼-½” adjustment is about right. Fill
in the space with some tracing paper and
stick together.
 Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and
re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam.
(See the orange lines on Fig D.)
 This time you’ll need to make the front
shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow
adjustment, line up the shoulder seams,

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT A B

SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A)

Working at 90˚ to the grain, make

corresponding tucks across the front
and back bodice, at bust and below
armhole. Make corresponding tucks across
the front and back of skirt below the hips.
For sleeves, shorten above and below the
elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve.

LENGTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B)

Working at 90˚ to the grain, cut across
the front and back bodice, at bust and
below armhole. Cut across the front and
back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves,
cut above and below the elbow, avoiding
the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern
pieces as required and fill the spaces with
scrap paper.
A BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A)
To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from
the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist,
indicated by the dotted line.
To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the
waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to
the required size.
 www.felicityfabrics.co.uk
hello@felicityfabrics.co.uk

Rooftop Fabrics are

proud to offer an every
expanding range of
fabrics, including: Plush,
Cottons, and other
specialist items.
Tel: 01420 260036
Email: website@
rooftopfabrics.com www.rooftopfabrics.com

Temptations Craft
Boutique
An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton
Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters
100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting
Knitting yarn and haberdashery
Courses and workshops
Agents for Brother Sewing Machines
Visit our shop or buy safely online
31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ
Tel: 015242 61868
www.temptationsbentham.co.uk
For shop opening times please see our website

66 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 A BRIEF
HISTORY OF

RSN Working on the Queen's Coronation Robe

A brief history of
ROYAL SCHOOL
OF NEEDLEWORK
With an impressive portfolio of commissions from royal gowns through to
the insignia for the FIFA World Cup, the Royal School of Needlework has
shared the fascinating art of hand embroidery for almost 150 years
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 67
 Beyond the decorative embellishments
that have adorned historical textiles,
through to modern garments, there is
a rich history to be gleaned from the
modest needle and thread. For almost 150
years the Royal School of Needlework
(RSN) has conserved and endorsed the
art of hand embroidery, stitching the
importance and dexterity of this craft
into every piece it produces. Today,
the RSN is recognised globally as an
institution of teaching excellence and
a window into the cultural and social
landscapes that helped shape its work.

PRESERVING HISTORY
Conserving and sharing the importance
of needlework has been at the heart
of RSN since it was founded in
1872. Lady Victoria Welby opened
the RSN (originally named The School of
Art Needlework) with the hope of
reviving an artform that was at risk of
becoming obsolete and also to provide
much-needed employment for educated
women who were otherwise at risk
of falling into poverty. Lady Welby
established a small workshop employing
20 ladies in London’s Sloane Street and
by 1903, a larger, all-purpose school was RSN Degree Student with embroidery project
opened on Exhibition Road employing
around 150 workers. As the demands
of the school grew, it later established
its now permanent residence at the
prestigious Hampton Court Palace
where it welcomes over 1,500 students
each year to enjoy its various educational
courses. Hampton Court Palace is also
home to the RSN Studio which houses
a team of experienced stitchers tasked
with restoring historical textiles and
creating bespoke pieces for clients
around the world.

INSPIRING FUTURE
GENERATIONS
Traditional hand embroidery forms the
basis of the classes on offer at the RSN.
The school teaches a range of classes;
from one-day workshops, to three-
year degree programmes and online
courses too. Stitchers of all levels have
been flocking to the school to refine
their skills in hand-stitching and learn
techniques covering Goldwork, Blackwork,
Whitework, Crewelwork and much more.
Some embroidery techniques even reflect
those used as far back as the 1600s. The
popularity of these programmes has led
to the establishment of classes across
the UK in Bristol, Birmingham, Rugby,
Durham and Glasgow, as well as some

68 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Appliqué of Hampton Court Palace
overseas classes in Ireland, North America
and Japan. For those wanting to teach
needlework and pass on their expertise
to future generations, novice stitchers
can partake in the three-year teacher
training programme that covers a range of
embroidery techniques through to teaching
theory. The RSN is also the only institution
in Europe to offer a specialist degree in
hand embroidery, allowing students to
delve into traditional and contemporary
embroidery practices and even collaborate
with fashion designers and galleries on live
projects. Earlier this year, two second-year
degree students collaborated with British
couturier to royalty, Catherine Walker &
Co to create an opulent A-line ‘Stardust’
evening dress [pictured right]. Working
closely with 30 artisans at Catherine
Walker & Co’s atelier, the students
Advanced Silk Shading by RSN Hand-embellished Swarovski crystal
helped to hand-embellish the dress
Certificate & Diploma Student ‘Stardust’ dress, Catherine Walker & Co
fabric with hundreds of Swarovski
AW19 collection
crystals which formed part of the designer’s
AW19 collection.

ROYAL LINES
The artistic integrity and unwavering skill
that the RSN is known for is perhaps why,
since its inauguration, it has played a vital
role in achieving the artistic vision of royal
commissions. Since the school received its
royal prefix in 1875, when Queen Victoria
became the first Patron, the RSN has
undertaken a plethora of royal projects
including embroidered royal robes to a
balcony hanging commemorating the
Queen’s Golden Jubilee. But perhaps one
of the most memorable collaborations
between the RSN and royalty of recent
times is the collective project undertaken
for HRH The Duchess of Cambridge’s
wedding-day attire. A team of advanced
students, RSN Studio Stitchers, tutors
and graduates worked alongside Sarah
Burton of Alexander McQueen to create
an intricate lace design for the Duchess’s
wedding dress, veil and shoes. To achieve
her creative vision, Sarah sourced
various motifs for the lace that were then
applied to the dress using a traditional
appliqué technique from Ireland called
Carrickmacross. These delicate motifs were
applied individually to the fabric using
fine, cord-like thread and spaced two-three
millimetres apart. In order to keep the
fabric in pristine condition, stitchers were
required to wash their hands every 30
minutes and needles were changed
every three hours, with thread
lengths no longer than
30cm. To ensure the dress
appeared immaculate on
both the front and the
Fun fact
The RSN offers the
back no securing knots
were used when applying only hand-embroidery
the motifs. degree programme
in Europe

The Queen's Coronation Robe

 RSN Embroidery Class Design

Official Royal Wedding Photograph,

by Hugo Burnand

STAYING CURRENT
The RSN Embroidery Studio receives
commissions from far and wide, from
fashion designers to private individuals.
As well as being passionate about
the preservation and restoration
Collaborating with other institutions to
increase the creative outlets available
to stitchers is why this year, the school
announced it would offer tutoring
at the V&A London and other

Did you
of historical articles, the fashion and textile museums
school also understands the in the UK. The popularity
necessity of supporting
contemporary projects
that voice an important
know?
During WWI the school
of traditional hand
embroidery is a telling
indicator that creativity
message or hold cultural in its purest form can
significance. In 2013, as taught returning soldiers
how to stitch as an sometimes be the most
part of the international
active therapy rewarding of all, not only
Red Carpet Green Dress
for the skill it requires but the
sustainability campaign, the
RSN Studio helped to create rich heritage it holds.
the gold-embroidered dress worn by
actress Naomi Harris at the Oscars. The
stunning piece was designed by fashion
student Michael Badger who, along with
many other international designers, was
challenged with creating a sustainable
FIND OUT
evening gown to raise awareness of
sustainable processes in the fashion
MORE
industry. Subsequently, in 2016, to mark
the release of the fifth series of fantasy TV The Royal of School of Needlework
drama Game of Thrones, the RSN was part is a registered charity and relies on
of a huge team of stitchers who created the generosity of individuals, trustees
an incredible 6x4m embroidered battle and companies to continue to share
scene from the show that depicted a central its embroidery teachings. To find out
fictional character called a White Walker. more about the exciting programme
The piece took 30,000 hours to make and of courses, events, classes and
was displayed in the Central Saint Martin’s tours on offer at the RSN visit
school in North London. www.royal-needlework.org.uk

All imagery is courtesy of The Royal School of

Needlwork, Catherine Walker and Hugo Burnand

Naomi Harris at the 2013 Oscars

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 71
 We love
HOME

CLOWNING
around
This charming embroidery looks like you are peering
MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• 10”-square of plain pale blue
linen for backing
at an underwater scene in the southern seas! • 7” embroidery hoop
Project YUMIKO HIGUCHI • air- or heat-erasable
fabric marker
• embroidery needle size 5/3
• DMC Pearl Cotton stranded
floss in size 8, in the following
colours: 310, 550,754, 754,
794, 919, 991, 3042, 3328,
3865, 3688
• templates downloaded from
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

FINISHED SIZE:
Finished embroidery measures
approximately 24cm square

NOTES:
Use one strand of floss to stitch up
the motifs and two strands for the
clownfish fins
There's no need to change the size
of your needle to suit the number of
strands you’re using

HOW TO MAKE:
1 Begin by printing out the
template. Stretch the blue
fabric in the embroidery hoop
the wrong way around so the
RS of the fabric sits inside the
hoop. Trace the design onto
the RS of the fabric using a
heat- or air-erasable marker.
Pin your template on the WS
of the fabric (this wouldn’t be
possible if the fabric was in
the frame the correct way
around) and then hold the
hoop up to a light source so
you can trace the design onto
the RS.
2 When done, remove your
fabric from the hoop and put
back in place the correct way.
Make sure it’s nice and tight

72 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 MASTERCLASS
STITCH GALLERY
FRENCH
KNOTS
SATIN
STITCH
OUTLINE STITCH
A B
1 up
3 up 2 down
Work in this direction
before you start stitching.
 Work chain stitch, unless
noted otherwise. In this
design, areas are filled with
chain stitch to create texture.
 Use one strand of floss,
unless noted otherwise.
 Start by making the bright
pink coral in chain stitch. Fill
in the entire shape by keeping
your rows of stitching nice
and close to each other.
CHAIN
STITCH
STRAIGHT
STITCH
4 down
3
5 up
Repeat steps 4 and 5
 The dark purple coral is
created in the same way.
 For the pale blue coral
try to leave the gaps clear
for the overlapping shapes
you’ll add later to avoid
unnecessary bulk.
 Add the red coral by first
stitching in chain stitch and
then working straight stitch
on top to define each centre.
Remember to again, leave the
gaps clear for the overlapping
shapes you’ll add later to
avoid unnecessary bulk.
 It is a similar approach for ABOUT
the green coral, where you’ll
fill in the shape first with chain
THE BOOK
stitch then add contrast chain
stitch to the ends.
Add the cream coral
after all the other coral shapes
are complete.
Stitch the clownfish and
bubbles last. On the template,
the number in parentheses
on the clownfish fins is the
number of strands to use,
followed by the colour code.
From Embroidered Botanicals by
Add the chain stitches first, Yumiko Higuchi
then move onto the satin © 2019 Yumiko Higuchi.
stitches before finishing Reprinted in arrangement with
with your French-knot eye Roost Books, an imprint of
and bubbles. Shambhala Publications, Inc.
Give your fabric a press,
avoiding the embroidery. If
needed, lightly steam above
the surface to remove any
of your fabric marker that is to secure it in place. If you're
still visible. worried about the felt shifting
Remove the outer hoop as you sew, dab a small
from the embroidery. Draw amount of glue on the fabric
around the inside of the hoop to temporarily hold it in place
onto a piece of felt and cut while you stitch.
it out. If you wish, you can add
Replace the hoop on your a hanging loop of ribbon or
embroidery, repositioned fabric, looped around the
ready for hanging. hoop fastener.
Trim the fabric around the
edge of your hoop, leaving
approximately 1” spare all the
way around.
Sew large straight stitches
around the edge, ensuring
that both ends of the thread
come out of the fabric on the
Top tip!
I love Frixion pens from Pilot
same side.
Draw the threads together as they are erased by heat and
at the back of the embroidery friction without a trace! Find
and tie together. them priced around £3 in
Whip-stitch the felt on the all major stationery
back, passing through the shops
fabric at the edge of the hoop
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 73
 We love
STYLE

WRAP
it up
This ballet wrap top
is a great cover-up
for all seasons and
works in knit and
woven fabric. Follow
our masterclass of
alternates to a zigzag
stitch that you can
try when working
with jersey
Project CLAIRE GARSIDE
Simple Sew Patterns

Shopping list
Mauve caramel floral on denim double
brushed jersey spandex blend knit, £6 per
metre, www.girlcharlee.co.uk

74 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• 2.3m fabric 60"-wide fabric (see
suggested fabric types, right)
• 50cm fusible knit interfacing
• co-ordinating thread
• templates downloaded from
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
NOTES:
All seams are 1.5cm unless
otherwise stated
Finish the raw edges on an
overlocker, or using an overcast
or zigzag stitch, to prevent your
garment fraying
Apply interfacing to the WS of the
two front facing pieces
MASTERCLASS
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS:
Viscose challis, cotton lawn,
seersucker, lightweight four-way
STITCH IT
stretch jersey, such as bamboo knits
and ITY spandex. This pattern is not
suitable for 45”-wide fabric
HOW TO MAKE:
1 RST, pin together the side
of the top you would like your
garment to tie on. Please note,
there are two sets of notches on
the top, but you only need to
leave a hole on one side seam
of the garment.
2 Put two pins in place to mark
the start and end of the hole,
this is to make sure you don’t

SIZING:

FINISHED NECK TO LIGHTNING BOLT STITCH moving on so patience is

FULL BUST WAIST
MEASUREMENTS HEM  (NO. 6 ON ABOVE IMAGE) key with this inish.
This clever variation
6 30½” 24” 33½” on a zigzag is a neater TRIPLE STRAIGHT STITCH
alternative. It reduces (NO.5 ON ABOVE IMAGE)
8 32½”  26” 33¾”
puckering on lightweight This tough stitch is formed
10 34½” 28” 34” or very stretchy knit fabric when the machine’s
and bias seams, while feed dogs move the
12 36½” 30” 34¼”
permitting the seam to be fabric forward and then
14 38½” 32” 34½” pressed completely lat. backward while the
16 40½” 34” 34¾” It’s so called due to its machine sews a straight
lightning shape and has a stitch. The forward-
18 42½” 36” 35” narrow width of 2.0 and a backward movement gives
20 44½” 38” 35¼” length of 2.5. Be wary that stretch but the multiple
this stitch can be extremely lines of stitching provide
22 46½” 40” 35½”
hard to unpick! the durability. Use this
stitch at points of stress,
OVEREDGE OR OVERCAST such as armholes, for a
LAYPLAN: FOOT AND STITCH long lasting inish. This
60"-wide fabric (NO. 9 ON ABOVE IMAGE) process isn’t ideal for
FOLD
If you don’t have an lightweight knits that
overlocker at home you may ripple or pucker but
can replicate the robust the results are great for
stitch it creates with a durable knit garments that
special foot and stitch will have a lot of wear.
setting. The guide on
the foot runs along the TWIN NEEDLE
side of the fabric and a Using two spools of thread
little brush spreads out and a regular straight
the thread as you sew to stitch, you can create a
cover the raw edge. You stretchy topstitch that
A B can also adjust the width mimics the efect of a
you need, choosing a coverpro machine. Your
wider stitch for thicker bobbin thread will zigzag
fabric. It is quite a behind the two stitched
slow process as the lines on the RS, creating
needle must stitch a polished look inside
multiple times before and out.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 75
 sew this area closed. Stitch
from the armhole down to
the first pin then back-stitch
to secure. Start again from
the second pin and stitch all
the way down to the hem,
backstitching again to secure.
3 Press the seam open and
stitch around the hole in a
rectangular shape, this will
help strengthen the hole.
(See Pic A.)
4 RST, stitch the front and
back bodices together at the
shoulder seams. Press the
seams open.
5 Take one sleeve and RST,
stitch it together along its
length. Repeat for the
second sleeve. Press the
sleeve seam open.
6 Turn up the sleeve hems by
1.5cm, press and stitch in place.
7 RST, insert the sleeves
into the bodice, aligning the
shoulder seam and side seams.
Pin and stitch in place. For
more help on setting sleeves,
follow the tutorial video on the
Simple Sew website. (See Pic B.)
8 RST, fold the belt ties along
their lengths. Press then stitch
along the length and across
one of the shorter ends,
E F
76 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
pivoting at
the corner.
Ensure you
Top tip!
Under-stitch the facing
leave a short by sewing it to the seam
end open to allowance. This ensures the
turn through. facing won't roll out as
9 Clip the you wear the top
corner and
turn the belt ties
through to the RS and
press. (See pics C and D.) RST,
join the front facings together
at the back seam then press
the seam open. (See Pic E.)
RST, pin the facing to the
edge of the front and back
bodices, sandwiching the open
edges of the belt in position
between the top and the
facing. Stitch in place, starting
at the tie belt end, all the way
around the garment.
(See Pic F.)
Trim the seam allowance
to 0.5cm then turn the facing
through to the inside of the top
and press in place. (See Pic G.)
Fold over the remaining
raw edge to the WS and stitch
in place all the way around,
creating a nice neat finish all
the way down and around
around the hem. Press in place.
(See Pic H.)
G H
 FABRIC

1 2

Stretch
YOURSELF
Discover Tilly's new line
of jersey brought to you
in collaboration with
Craft Cotton Co.
3 4

5 6

Fabric shopping
 Rainbow Breton in white, £6 per half metre  Allsorts in multi, £6 per half metre
 Allsorts in blue, £6 per half metre  Rainbow Breton in black, £6 per half metre
 Love your nails, £6 per half metre  Wide stripe in multi, £6 per half metre

Visit www.shop.tillyandthebuttons.com to buy. Shipping costs still apply.

Fabric availability and prices correct at time of going to print.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 77

workshops
SEW JESSALLI
Dorset
Sew Jessalli is an independent sewing
school based in Dorset offering fun,
modern sewing classes to all ages, from
six to 106. Learn a new skill in a fun,
spacious and colourful studio.
01258 268541
www.jessalli.com
15TH FEBRUARY
Baby Leggings
Learn to make soft, jersey baby leggings,
perfect for stretch-fabric newbies. You'll
THE LORNA KNIGHT
SEWING ACADEMY
Staffordshire, near Leek
Lorna is well known for writing sewing
books and for running workshops, but
people may not know that she has
her own studio in the Staffordshire
Moorlands where she sells fabric,
haberdashery and sewing machines
too. People are welcome to drop in
and find out more.
07970 345628
www.lornaknight.com
78 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Book yourself in to one
of this month’s top
workshops and expand
your sewing horizons
learn everything about how to cope with
stretch and knit fabric and make a really
easy item that you can use as a reference,
or give as a gift to a little one. Fabric and
pattern provided.
Cost: £40
20TH FEBRUARY
Advanced Free-Motion Embroidery
Learn how to develop your free-motion
embroidery skills. Learn perfect detailing
in portraits, art pieces and thread shading.
Bring an A4 portrait printout you’d like to
work on.
Cost: £50
7TH MARCH
Sew a Coco Day
21ST MARCH
Want to learn how to make something with
stretch fabric? Then this is the perfect class Pattern 101
for you. You'll make a wonderful Tilly and Learn how to read a pattern, what it all
the Buttons Coco top or dress! Fabric and means, how to measure yourself and
matching thread required, everything else, loads of tips and tricks to get you started!
including the pattern provided. Simple top pattern included.
Cost: £60 Cost: £35
8TH FEBRUARY is spent learning how to adjust a basic
trouser pattern to make the shape more
Perfect Fit
personal. The remainder of the day is all
Are you fed up making clothes which
about the techniques, including pockets,
don’t fit as well as you’d like them to?
fly zip insertion, a two-piece waistband,
Come along and learn the principles
belt loops and hems. You will make a
of adapting a commercial pattern to fit
standard-sized pair of trousers to use as
your figure and make a toile to fine tune
a working sample.
the fit. The fee includes a commercial
Cost: £85
pattern and calico to make up your toile
as well as lunch and refreshments.
Cost: £85
11TH MARCH
10TH FEBRUARY Get to Know your Overlocker
Children's Class
Whether you are thinking about buying
an overlocker, have just bought one, or
This monthly after school class is for
have had one for years and never got to
eight to 12-year-olds. Bring your young
grips with it, this overlocking workshop
person along to sew a little project.
is for you. You will look at maintenance,
Cost: £10
threading, tension adjustments,
achieving balanced stitches, rolled
6TH MARCH
hems, lettuce edges and corners. (When
Trouser Tricks booking please mention if you need to
It is difficult to get a good-fitting pair borrow a machine.)
of trousers so the first part of the day Cost: £70

SEW CREATIVE
Cheshire
Sew Creative is a sewing school and fabric
shop, it sells a range of seasonal, fashion
forward fabric and teaches sewing classes
for everyone aged 6+. It prides itself on a
friendly, open and passionate approach.
So whether you are coming to stock
up your fabric stash, or are attending a
class, Sew Creative look forward to seeing
you soon!
07305 306 506
www.sewcreativestudios.net
HAPPY HARE
Sheffield
Happy Hare is an independent
sewing store, based in Chapeltown,
Sheffield. It stocks a wide range of
fabric, including Kaffe Fassett, Craft
Cotton Company and Tula Pink.
For all workshops, materials will be
provided, unless otherwise specified.
For sewing workshops, you must be
able to use a sewing machine with a
reasonable level of skill.
0114 2455996
www.handmadehappyhare.com
PJ bottoms or baby leggings in this
DAILY MONDAY-SATURDAY
stretch-loving masterclass.
Free Sew Cost: £40
A fresh approach to sewing classes. The
Free Sew sessions are small and personal,
where you make what you want and work 19TH FEBRUARY
at your own speed. The expert tutors will The Transformation Challenge
also be there to guide you through any Inspired by The Great British Sewing
project — from absolute beginners to Bee, you will be taught how to upcycle
advanced sewists, everyone is welcome! a man’s shirt and transform it into a cute
Cost: £20 child’s dress, romper or dungarees. Take
something that is pre-loved and full of
31ST JANUARY memories and turn it into something
adorable for your little one.
Sew the Trends
Cost: £80
Learn to sew the latest trends in this
monthly masterclass. This month you will
be shown how to make a flattering tie-back
top… a style that suits everyone and looks
great in any woven fabric.
Cost: £80 + pattern
14TH FEBRUARY
Learn to Love Stretch
If the thought of sewing with
stretch-fabric petrifies you, then let
the team help. Master the art of sewing
with stretch and create your very own
1ST FEBRUARY (AM) include materials, so you will need to
either purchase on the day or bring your
Beginner's Machine Patchwork –
Luna Lapin kit along with you.
Disappearing Nine Square Cushion Cost: £12.50
Learn basic patchwork techniques
by making a disappearing nine
patch cushion. 7TH MARCH
Cost: £25
Introduction to Sewing Machines
Learn how to wind a bobbin, thread
1ST FEBRUARY (PM) up a machine, sew in straight lines and
round corners, and have a play with the
Coolcrafting Skye Wrap decorative stitches!
Make a simple and elegant wrap, using
Cost: £25
pure wool and cotton lawn.
Cost: £45
15TH FEBRUARY/29TH MARCH
Luna Lapin Making Day
Come along to sew a Coolcrafting Luna
Lapin. This particular class does not
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 79
 The Old Stables
17-23 Poplar Road
Kings Heath
Birmingham B14 7AA
T: 0121 443 5555
E: info@franknutt.co.uk

Three ways to buy - online by telephone or visit the shop

Lots of honest, helpful and friendly advice.
Around 100 sewing machines and overlockers on show, ready for demonstration.
We stock Babylock, Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna,
Janome, Juki, Pfaf and Singer machines.
Creative free-machine embroidery workshops with Claire Muir.
We have an extensive range of Horn cabinets and chairs on display.
We also do machine accessories, software, dress forms and workshops.
Free customer car park.
Find us on YouTube- Frank Nutt Sewing Machines

www.franknutt.co.uk

80 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 READERS'
Suernsdnaupss!
yo
OUR STAR M
AKE
EA
WILL RECEIV

£25FABRIC BUN
FROM MINER
DLE
VA
Get in touch
letters@lovesewingmag.co.uk

CRAFTS! Lorna asked you

on Facebook…
My sewing room is…
A: As neat as a pin
B: I would say organised mess
C: Chaotic! I’m forever losing things
under piles of fabric!

Star Lucy
We love this raglan jumper that Lucy
make has created using the pattern from
issue 45 – a great winter staple.
A
12%
Ruth
How gorgeous is this version of the
Threadcount jersey top from issue 72?! B
Ruth said: “It was an interesting pattern to 44%
sew and it's nice to have a jersey top that's
a bit different from a normal T-shirt!”
C
44%

Alexandra
We’re feeling very inspired to whip up
another card wallet from issue 48 after
seeing this pretty version by Alexandra.
Jayne
“In our little sewing collective,
we take it in turns to make things
for each other, it helps us practise
style and fit for someone else.
Amanda made me this dress using
a cotton jersey from Pound Fabrics.
It is fabulous!”
You said...
Sheila: “B, I know where everything is.”
Heather: “I would say B but my husband
would say C.”
Glenis: “I haven't got one, but it would have
to be tidy. I can't stand clutter and need a
clear space to work. That's just me, I know
everyone is different and that's OK.”
 ASK THE
EXPERTS

Ultimate
sewing kit
Alison Smith MBE shares with us how to
build the essential sewing toolkit
Buy handmade pressing tools and
pincushions at www.clothbound1.etsy.com
o you wonder how often you should

D revise your sewing kit and replace

and renew items? The more sewing
you do, the more you need to have all the
correct equipment at your fingertips. Let’s
start at the beginning with scissors.

SCISSORS
Shears – when choosing, make sure your
hand span can open the whole blade. For
most women this is an 8½/9" blade. Choose
comfortable handles too, hard plastic
handles can dig in and cause wheals if
cutting out chunky fabric.

Trimming scissors – a smaller pair of

scissors is also required to trim and clip
seams, maybe a 6" pair.

Thread snips – these are also a great

addition to your sewing kit and they do just
as they say – snip thread!

Pinking shears – a new pair of pinking

shears is heaven. I use mine to trim corners,
layer seams and of course neaten seams
when using some couture techniques.

TOOLS
Machine needles – a good selection of these
needles is essential. You should buy a new
needle for each new project and ensure you
buy good-quality needles. There are many

|n this issue Alison shares her favourite supplies

82 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Group diferent types of
pins on individual pincushions
needles on the market now and each needle
is designed for a different job, so buy yourself
a selection to keep on hand.
Hand sewing needles – again there are many
on the market but for accurate hand-stitching
try a Milliners size 9 – these needles have
a tiny eye that does not leave a hole. How
should you store your needles? Try needle
twisters! They come in lovely bright colours
and needles cannot fall out as they are held
in place by a magnet.
Pins – like needles, come in many sizes and
types. For my couture sewing I use the long,
fine pins that have red heads. They bend
easily but are just lovely to use. I also love
the pearl-headed pins for thicker fabric.
Keep your pins in a pincushion to protect the
points and keep them sharp. I have different
pincushions for different pins.
Thread – as well as sewing machine thread
try basting thread. This thread is great for
tailor's tacks and holding layers in place. It’s a
little thicker and coarser than the all-purpose
thread so it doesn't fall out as quickly!
When choosing scissors, make sure
your hand span can open the whole blade
Tweezers – a pair of tweezers is essential, Learn with
especially to aid threading the overlocker and
of course to remove any stray tacking threads
from tailor's tacks. There are some lovely
Alison!
Try the Couture Techniques
decorative tweezers you can use these days
workshop at The School
but make sure they meet at the points and
of Sewing. Visit www.
will grip a thread.
schoolofsewing.co.uk
to find out more
Cutting board – I rarely use a rotary
cutter but I do like a cutting board next to
my sewing machine to keep my work on.
The fabric tends not to move around so
much on a cutting board when you may be
manipulating it.
MEASURING TOOLS
Seam guauge – there are many types on the
market. You need at least one, whether it
be an adjustable type or non adjustable or
maybe both.
Pattern master – whilst I am talking about
measuring tools I could not be without my
pattern master. This strange-shaped plastic
measuring tool is invaluable for drafting
and altering patterns due to its curved and
straight edges.
PRESSING
Iron – a good iron is a must have. You can
now get a one temperature iron. These are
amazing – they will go from pressing silk to
denim and never scorch or catch. The secret
is in the sole plate.
Pressing aids – I advise keeping hams and
seam rolls on hand. I would also recommend
point pressers, a wooden clapper and, of Store your needles in a Prym
course, a silk organza pressing cloth. Cut a twister with magnetic base
piece of silk organza around 80cm-square
and overlock the raw edges. Voila!
These are some of my favourite things – what
are yours? ABOUT
ALISON SMITH
Awarded an MBE for her services to
dressmaking, Alison is an industry
expert in classic couture and a
published author. Alison has her own
shop and line of patterns, and you
can also learn with her at one of her
exclusive workshops. Find
out more on her website
www.schoolofsewing.co.uk
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 83
Boxful of Lovely
So Beautifully Organised is the brand-new box kit
packed with stationery heaven that will help keep
life on track in the most aesthetically pleasing way only
possible. Every collection is totally unique, with
an exclusively designed assortment of products £14.99
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organise daily life and enjoy the hand-written. per box
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 We love
STYLE

Made to
TWIRL
Push your skills – learn how
to create a baby hem and
work with slippery fabric
to create a stylish skirt to
add to your wardrobe
Project CLAIRE GARSIDE
Simple Sew

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 85
 LAYPLAN:
60"-wide
A B C

FOLD

D E

MATERIALS & TOOLS: help prevent the fabric from placing it RST with the upper made at the bottom of the zip,
• 1.7m 60”-wide drapey fabric stretching out as you work. edge of the skirt and sewing in continue the centre back seam
Take care if using a directional 2 Fuse interfacing to place. (See Pic B.) to the bottom of the skirt. Press
print as it will be distorted on the WS of one of the 5 Placing zip RST, align the the seam open. (See Pic D.)
the final garment waistband pieces. This will zipper stop with waistband 9 Flip the waistband facing
• 30cm interfacing now be referred to as the seam and sew in place over so it is RST with the
• 12” concealed zip waistband facing. with zipper foot. Invest in a waistband. Using the zipper
• co-ordinating thread 3 With RST, join the concealed zipper foot for foot, sew down through the
• templates downloaded from waistband pieces along one perfect results every time. layers, following the edge of
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk long edge. Press seam open. (See Pic C.) the zip. Snip the top corners of
Zigzag-stitch or overlock the 6 Close the zip and on and grade the seam allowance.
NOTES: raw edge of the waistband. the WS of the unsewn Turn back through to the RS
A 1.5cm seam allowance is included (See Pic A.) Press waistband tape mark the seam line and use a point turner to get
unless otherwise stated pieces together. where the skirt meets the crisp corners. (See Pic E.)
4 Sew the skirt front and waistband using a fabric J On the RS of the garment
HOW TO MAKE: backs together at the side marker. pin the waistband facing to
1 Carefully stay-stitch the seams and press. Do not 7 Unzip and align the main garment. Stitch
sides of each skirt piece within sew the centre back seam the tape on the in the ditch along
the seam allowance. This will yet. Install the waistband by other side of
the skirt. Pin
in place
Top tip!
You might find it
the seam line on
the front of the
skirt to secretly
SIZING: and sew. secure the
For greater easier to cut your skirt facing on the
WAIST HIPS FINISHED LENGTH
control on the crosswise grain inside.
8 28" 36" 21”
when but that is quite a K Create a baby
10  30" 38" 21”
matching fabric-hungry layout hem for the skirt
12 32" 40" 21” the seam you by sewing 0.5cm
14 34" 42" 21” might like to tack in from the edge. Use
that speciic point of this stitching line to press
16 36" 44" 21”
the zip with a few hand the hem up and stitch again.
18 38" 46" 21” stitches. Repeat to create a narrow
20 40" 48" 21” 8 From the last stitch you double-folded hem.

86 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
MASTERCLASS

FINE
FABRIC
This project is perfect for
trying in trickier fabric,
such as silk or silk blends,
polyester or a viscose-mix
fabric. Here are some top
tips for working with these
types of fabric.
1 It is important to use sharp
dressmaking shears that are
only used on fabric! Ones
with inely serrated blades are
perfect for slippery fabric as
they grip the cloth as you cut.
Take long slices, using the
whole length of the blades as
you cut.
2 If you prefer using a rotary
cutter, ensure you have a
large enough mat so you
won’t have to reposition
your fabric multiple times
to cut it out. Each time you
move the material you risk
cutting it of the grain.
3 If you plan to regularly sew
with slippery or lightweight
fabric, invest in a straight
stitch needle plate. This
can be easily swapped with
your regular plate with a
screwdriver and has a smaller
eye for the needle to pass
through, meaning fabric is
less likely to be dragged into
the mechanism as you sew.
4 Stay sharp by using
extra-ine pins such as special
lace or silk pins, and a fresh
thin needle in your machine.
Failure to do so will risk
snags and visible holes in
your fabric which will ruin the
inal inish.
5 Why not try French seams?
They look neater if seen
through slightly sheer fabric
and are best for fabric prone
to fraying. See our tutorial on
page 63.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 87
 We love
HOME

Bolt from the

MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• 0.5m blue loral for outer bag
• 25”-square blue pattern for inner
bag & pocket
• 0.25m blue bird of paradise fabric
for lap and handles
• 0.5m foam stabiliser
BLUE
This robust bag is just the right size to use as a craft
• 3” WOF fusible wadding bag to carry around for a project on the go
• 10”-square fusible interfacing Project JANET GODDARD
• magnetic snap
• co-ordinating thread

CUTTING:
From the blue loral fabric for the
outer bag, cut:
• 2 16½x18” rectangles
From the blue pattern fabric for inner
bag and pocket, cut:
• 2 15½x18” rectangles
• 5½x16½” rectangle
From the bird fabric for lap and
handles, cut:
• 2 6½x10” rectangles
• 2 4x28½” strips
From the foam stabiliser for inside
bag, cut:
• 2 16x17½” rectangles
From the fusible wadding, cut:
• 2 1½x28½” strips
From the fusible interfacing, cut:
• 6½x10” rectangle

NOTES:
Use a ¼” seam allowance throughout
unless otherwise stated
Finished size: 171/2x12x7"

HOW TO MAKE:
1 Take the two outer bag
sections of fabric and pin the
foam stabiliser to the WS. The
stabiliser will be ¼” smaller
than the outer bag sections to
allow for the seam allowance.
(See Pic A.)
2 Quilt on the diagonal
across the outer bag
sections and through the
stabiliser in a cross hatch
pattern, spacing the lines 3”
apart. The top of the bag will
be the 18” measurement.
(See pics B and C.)
3 Place the two outer bag
sections RST and stitch

88 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 A B
E F
I J
around three sides leaving the
top edge open.
 To shape the base of the
outer bag, match the folded
base bottom line with the
side seam on each corner.
Measure in 3½” from the end
corner of the seam line, draw
a line across from edge to
edge, then stitch. Trim the
seam to ¼”. (See pics D & E.)
 Find the centre of one
outside top edge and measure
down 2½”. Attach the bottom
part of the magnetic snap by
making two tiny holes and
pushing the prongs through,
then open the prongs out on
the stabiliser.
 Take the two 6½x10”
rectangles and iron fusible
interfacing to the WS of one.
 To shape the flap, mark the
middle point on one 6½” edge
of each flap piece and then
measure up each long side
1¾”. Cut from this, marking to
the centre point on each side
to create the flap shape.
 To add the magnetic snap
take the flap section that has
the interfacing and measure
up 2” from flap point centre.
Insert the top of the snap so
that it is positioned on the
RS of the fabric with prongs
opened out on the interfacing.
(See pics F & G.)
 Stitch the flap sections RST
and leaving the 6½” edge
open. Trim and turn through.
Top-stitch around the outer
edge. (See Pic H.)
Pin the raw edges of the
flap to the centre of the top
edge of the outer bag section
that does not contain the
snap. Stitch in place with a 1⁄8”
seam to secure.
Take the two 4x28½” strips
and press under ¼” in on one
long edge of each. Fuse a 1½”
fusible wadding strip down
the centre of the WS of each
handle. Fold the raw edge of
the fabric to the centre of the
wadding and then the folded
edge on top. The folded
edge should overlap the raw
edge by ¼”. Pin in place and
top-stitch along the folded
edge. (See Pic I.)
C D
G H
K L
Match the raw ends of the top section open.
each handle with the raw Place the lining sections
edge of the outer bag, RST and stitch around three
positioning the handles to sides, leaving the top edge
each side of the flap. Stitch in open and also a 5” opening in
place with a 1⁄8” seam. one of the 15½” sides.
Take the 5½x16½” To shape the base of the
rectangle and fold in half, RST. lining follow the instructions
Stitch all the way around the in Step 4. (See Pic J.)
pocket leaving a 3” opening Place the outer bag inside
in one long side. Trim points, the lining, RST. Match the side
turn though, then press. seams and pin in place. Keep
Position the pocket on the flap and handles pushed
the RS of one of the 15½x18” well down. Stitch around the
lining rectangles. The pocket top. Turn the bag through
is positioned 3” from the top the opening in the lining and
of the 18” edge with the open stitch the lining closed. Stitch
seam to the bottom. ¼” around the top edge of the
Stitch 1⁄8” around three bag. (See pics K & L.)
sides of the pocket, leaving
Janet says...
Why not pick two prints
from the same collection
so they co-ordinate nicely?
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 89
Papercut Patterns Sierra FABRIC
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Shipping costs still apply.
Fabric and prices correct at time of going to print.

90 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 THE CROCHET
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 MASTERCLASS
CUT THE
CORD
We've rounded up
the expert advice
you'll need for
sewing corduroy
fabric with success

Top tip!
Why not make this corduroy
pencil skirt on page 46 and
practise these techniques?
You'll be a corduroy pro
in no time!

92 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 Corduroy is a great staple fabric and with
its texture and luxurious feel you’ll want to
showcase it at its best. Follow our top tips
for sewing success
FIRST THINGS FIRST
Corduroy has a tendency to shrink in
the wash so make sure to pre-treat
your fabric on the same settings
you'd like to handle the inal garment.
Hang straight while damp to help the
creases fall out, or gently steam the
fabric without touching it with your
iron for stubborn wrinkles. Consider
adding a lining if you're worried about
wrinkles appearing as you wear your
inished make as this will help support
the fabric during wear. You may ind it
best to turn your garment inside out
and wash on a cool setting to preserve
the colours.
TAKE A NAP!
Corduroy has what’s known as nap,
meaning the fabric looks and feels
diferent from each direction. This is
easy to see with piece of fabric with
a deep pile, like velvet or corduroy.
The ibres don’t stand straight up,
but have a direction to them that you
can feel as you brush your hand back
and forth; you can see the change
in colour and texture immediately.
The goal is to avoid accidentally
assembling your project with the nap
running in diferent directions as it
will be visible to even the non sewist!
Use a ‘with nap’ layout when cutting
out fabric that has a direction to them
(lay all the pieces head to toe in the
same direction) to ensure the smooth
feeling of the corduroy runs up or
down the body.
STRAIGHT TALK
Take care to keep the wales of the
fabric running straight down the body
for a inish that is pleasing to the eye.
The best approach is to match the
grainline on your pattern pieces to
one of the ribs as you lay it out and
cut out the pieces on a single layer of
fabric with the pattern pieces lipped
to cut a mirrored copy where needed.
This may require a bit more space but
will give you better control during the
cutting-out stage.
Why not
TRY?
WALK THE LINE
Sewing neat seams is quite tricky with
corduroy. Because the pile is so silky,
it’s quite easy for the two layers of
fabric to creep when placed right sides
together. This means that the bottom
layer is pulled along by the feed dogs,
while the top has a tendency to lag
behind, making your seams uneven. ‘Norbury’ muted red corduroy,
You can help the problem by raising £8.95 per metre
the height of your presser foot slightly, www.clothspot.co.uk
if your machine has this option. But
the best solution, is to use a walking
foot, as it is a great investment all
round. A walking foot or even-feed
foot creates an even feeding motion
for the top layer of fabric as well as
the bottom, meaning perfectly
matched seams.
YOU'RE THE TOP!
You may have guessed that decorative Fir Tree Print Cord in pink,
top-stitching is a little tricky with the £5.99 per metre
peaks and valleys of the corduroy www.abakhan.co.uk
texture. Even with a slightly longer
stitch length you may have to accept
that your stitch line will disappear
into the fabric, so avoid top-stitching
where possible. There's also the bulk
to factor in! If you can, lock your
presser foot in the lat position using
the little spring on the side before
you lower the foot and start sewing.
Alternatively try a folded piece of
cardboard at the back of the foot to
ill the gap behind the seam and keep Liberty Rossmore Cord
things level that way. (LKC03545257B) Gemma,
£19 per metre
FLAWLESS FINISH www.sewbox.co.uk
Corduroy has a tendency to ravel
at the edges if left uninished and
washing your inished garment can
become a nightmare scenario! Since
seam allowances are so bulky in
corduroy it’s best to trim them to half
their width and overlock the edges
(you may ind it easier to overlock
before construction). If you don’t have
an overlocker, why not see if your
machine has an overcast setting? You Mustard chunky corduroy
can always try the Hong Kong seams £15 per metre
tutorial on page 63. www.likesewamazing.com
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 93
 Amy says...

SEWING BEE RETURNS 2020

Visit the Love Sewing website for all this & more

Sign up
TODAY
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COMPETITIONS GOSSIP an account
Don’t miss our big giveaways for Read our exclusive interviews
patterns, fabric, haberdashery with the judges, plus we chat with
and more, all themed to match each contestant after they leave
each episode! the competition

PATTERN
DOWNLOADS SEWING SHOP Clever tutorials
Find downloadable templates Find your next project in our pattern Our in-depth sewing guides and
for the dressmaking projects you’ve shop and pick up any back issues you expert advice on dressmaking will
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Head to lsmag.com/sewingbee to join in the fun!

94 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
 GBSB
FACTS...

We love
SEWING BEE
In anticipation for the new series this Spring we're sharing our
favourite moments from series 5

the contestants were tasked Joe Lycett's jokes

with making waterproof coats Where do we start?! Whether it's his
for dogs. Sadly the workroom glittery sequined clothes, his sewing
wasn't overrun with cute puns or that awkward attempt at yoga
puppies but Winston's red when he nearly broke a leg, you always
bowtie sure made up for it. know when Joe is on screen. His cheeky
personality will only increase now that
Car crash sewing he's settled into the role as presenter
Isn't it terrible when you see a and we can't wait to see him back for
contestant making a mistake another year.
and they can't hear you
screaming at the telly? Well,
Esme feels the same way: "I
found it very difficult not to
be able to help them out. I
did gave a little bit of advice
early on, and it was hard
seeing someone do something that I
It's always so emotional! knew was going to end up as a disaster
The show always starts with an unknown group and not being able to help!"
of people and before you know it you're cheering
on your favourites, pretending you're one of the Esme and Patrick 'pogo-ing'
judges and jumping in delight when the winner When they introduced the punk-inspired
is announced. Juliet gave a moving speech alteration challenge in week 3, no one
after winning series 5 and she's gone on to do expected to see footage of Patrick and
wonderful things in the sewing world. We can't Esme headbanging, bouncing into one We're so excited to meet next
wait for another emotional rollercoaster of a series. another and generally rocking out. It's year's contestants!
now been turned into the gif that won't
Adorable guest stars stop giving as you can add the graphic of
Two highlights of the last series for many people them bouncing on repeat to your social
were the appearance of dapper dog Winston and media posts! Before the new series starts,
the fancy dress make sure you're following @sewingbee ABOUT
costumes made on Twitter for more gems like this.
for children! In THE GREAT
week 2 we saw Make every scrap count! BRITISH SEWING
the imagination We loved that this series had a real
of our Bees as message about sustainable sewing BEE
they made wild methods. For week 5, the Bees were
and wonderful asked to create garments from their scrap
costumes... who fabric from previous weeks, Patrick spoke Stay on top of all the Sewing Bee
can forget Joe eloquently about fabric waste in the gossip by visiting our website
appearing in his fashion industry and we were wowed by where you'll see the latest
own bee outfit. the use of second-hand clothing to create news, helpful sewing guides,
Then in week 4 stunning pussy-bow blouses. competitions and free patterns.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Canine couture with Winston

the dog, from episode 4
 Next month in Sizes
6-22

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Inspiring articles,
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P Exclusive interview with

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P Create perfect jumpsuits with

Sewing Bee winner Juliet

P Amazing lace eyelet fabric masterclass

Plus much more!

 ISSUE 78 ON SALE 20TH FEB 2020
l u siv e!
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TROUSER E

SET
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TILLY & THE

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for our
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Brilliant gifts for

MOTHER'S DAY

y Gardiner
Top tips and techniques from Claire-Louise Hardie P Expert guidance from Wend
P Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE
P Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castro Peake

All contents subject to change. Tilly and the Buttons: Make It Simple by Tilly Walnes (Quadrille £25). Photography © Ellie Smith
 This month 1'm making

Rebecca shares her chic version of Sew Over It’s

Meredith Dress, follow her sewing journey at
www.prettyhandsomeblog.wordpress.com

I
t’s not very often that you will find me in a
mostly black outfit. However, this poodle print
jersey fabric was too adorable to pass up! I
love a novelty print, and it doesn’t come much
better than an adorable pooch print like this one.
I don’t use a lot of stretch fabrics for sewing so I
perused the pattern options on the Minerva website
for some ideas and inspiration, and found the
Meredith Dress from Sew Over It. The Meredith
Dress is a classic wrap dress design with skirt
length options of above or below the knee. I
love wrap dresses in general as I think the style
is so classic and elegant and always looks very
put together.
tie belt was over my hip rather than my waist.
It was only a case of unpicking and re-sewing it
slightly higher, however with the stretch stitch
I was using that does take a fair amount of
time and concentration not to pull a hole in the
fabric! Given this little misdemeanour I highly
recommend measuring from your shoulder to
opposite waist to make sure the dress will be the
same distance.
I love the finished dress – it feels so Parisian
chic and when paired with red accessories
it is just dreamy. For when I’m not feeling so
continental, I’m also imagining it with mustard
tights and a beret!

THE MINERVA
CRAFTS
BLOGGER
NETWORK
The Minerva Crafts Blogger
Network is a collection of
amazing sewing and craft
bloggers from across the
world. Every month each
blogger creates a unique
kit from the thousands
of gorgeous fabric and
notions available at Minerva
Crafts. They wow us with
their makes every month
by blogging a project
made with their kit on the
network. There are new
projects going live daily to
inspire and educate sewists
of all levels and abilities.
Each blogger's unique kit
is available to buy at
www.minervacrafts.com
As always with a stretchy fabric like this, cutting Thanks for reading and happy sewing!
takes about twice as long as normal because you
need to take extra care when laying your fabric Rebecca
out and making sure it’s not stretching or moving
as you cut. Once cut and the markings made, the
construction was very simple.
For the neck binding, the pattern recommends
using a stretch interfacing if your fabric is
particularly stretchy or if you’re new to sewing. I
used a stretch interfacing around the back of the
neck but left it off for the side edges of the dress.
When checking my measurements against the
pattern, one area I didn’t consider was the location
of the gap in the side seam where the tie belt feeds
through. Only after I had stitched my seam did I
realise that the gap was too low on me and so the
Rebecca says...
It feels so Parisian chic and
paired with red accessories Black and White Rayon
is just dreamy Jersey Knit Fabric, £5.99 per metre
from www.minervacrafts.com

98 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 99
100 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk