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Amigurumi Pattern:
Cuddle-Sized Sugar Plum Fairy
By: Storyland Amis

Meet the Cuddle-Sized Sugar Plum Fairy! She is beautiful and graceful, and of course, an
excellent dancer. She is ready to dance her way into your heart along with her little sugar plum
friends!

© Holly Faith Salzman

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The pattern and images contained in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written
pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute this pattern in part or in whole.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your
finished items online I would appreciate it if you’d link back to my shop! You may not mass-produce items
made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Finished size approximately: 8.5 in. (21.5 cm.)

Materials: Abbreviation key (US terms):

• Worsted weight yarn (4 ply) in sc - single crochet

beige, dark purple, medium purple st/sts - stitch(es)
light purple, brown, & small
amount of red . Sl st – slip stitch
• F (3.75 mm) crochet hook Hdc – half double crochet
• 15mm black safety eyes
• 3 pair of 6mm black safety eyes dec - decrease (sc the next 2 stitches
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) together)
• Yarn needle inc - increase (2 single crochet in the
• Scissors next stitch)
• Stitch marker
R1 - round 1
• Clear seed beads
• 3 1.5 in. circles of cardboard Rep – repeat
• Black embroidery floss
BLO – Back Loops Only
Color change help:
** - repeat this group of instructions
Insert hook into last st of round or amount of times indicated
section, yarn over & pull hook through
st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn Note: All rounds are worked
over & pull hook through remaining 2 continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start
the new round or section.

Please don’t hesitate to contact me with any problems you may have! I’m always happy to help!

© Holly Faith Salzman

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Head (Using beige yarn)

R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a
difference in the end.)

R2: *Inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *Sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *Sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *Sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *Sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8: *Sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R9: *Sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R10: *Sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R11: *Sc 9, inc* rep 6 times (66 sts)

R12: *Sc 10, inc* rep 6 times (72 sts)

R13-25: Sc in all 72 sts (13 rounds total—72 sts)

R26: *Sc 10, dec* rep 6 times (66 sts)

R27: *Sc 9, dec* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R28: *Sc 8, dec* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R29: *Sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R30: *Sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts) Pic. #1

Insert the eyes between R25 & 26, 14 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 14 sts from the
hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye.) (See pic. #1). I embroidered her
eyelashes on after I finished the doll, but you might find it easier to embroider them now before
you secure the eyes and stuff the head. Now embroider her smile using red yarn. I embroidered
mine right between the eyes about 4 sts wide.

R31: *Sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)

© Holly Faith Salzman

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R32: *Sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

Stop and start to stuff the head, continuing as you work.

R33: *Sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R34: *Sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R35: *Sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R36: *Dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off. Finish stuffing head firmly, and use the tail to sew up hole, then weave in your end.

Wig cap (Using brown yarn)

R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a
difference in the end.)

R2: *Inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *Sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *Sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *Sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *Sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8: *Sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R9: *Sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R10: *Sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R11: *Sc 9, inc* rep 6 times (66 sts)

R12: *Sc 10, inc* rep 6 times (72 sts)

R13-26: Sc in all 72 sts (14 rounds total—72 sts) Pic. #2

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Now sew the wig cap to her head. (See pic. #2.)

© Holly Faith Salzman

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Cut about 72 19-inch strands of brown yarn to use for her hair. Take your crochet hook and
insert it through one of the stitches from the wig cap. Fold one of the strands of yarn in half and
grab the center of the folded yarn with your crochet hook pulling it through about halfway. Now
let go of one of the two tails and pull until the tail you’re not holding pulls all the way through.
Continue like this until there is hair all the way around the wig cap. (See pic. #3.)

Pic. #3
Now gather her hair into a ponytail at the top of her head and secure it with an elastic hairband.
Take each individual strand of hair and pull on it so that the hair is nice and tight all the way
around and there aren’t any loose strands. Set head aside until the bun form is made. (See pic.
#4.)

Pic. #4

Bun form (Using brown yarn)

Bun form is worked in rows instead of rounds

Ch 25, starting in 2nd ch from hook, hdc 24 (24 Sts) ch 1, turn

R2-6: Sc in all 24 sts (5 Rows total—24 Sts) Ch 1, turn

© Holly Faith Salzman

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Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Fold the piece in half so that the long edges meet and sew
the two ends together. Stuff the tube.

Now wrap the tube around the ponytail we created and sew the two short ends of the tube
together so that it’s secure around the ponytail. (See pic. #5.)

Pic. #5

Now arrange the hair all the way around the bun form so that it’s neat and even. Take a second
hairband and place it over the bun to secure the hairs in place. This is just temporary until we
secure it with yarn. Now take a strand of brown yarn and tie it very tightly around the bun where
the 2nd hairband is. Once the bun is secure with the yarn you can remove the 2nd hairband. Now
take a pair of sharp scissors and trim the hair very close to the edge of the bun. Do NOT trim it so
short that the bun comes undone. (See pic. #6.)

Pic. #6

Now we have this fuzzy little ring of hair all the way around. To cover it up we’ll make a wide
hairband for her.

Hairband (Using light purple yarn)

© Holly Faith Salzman

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Hairband is worked in rows instead of rounds

Ch 40, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 39, ch 1,

turn

R2: Sc in all 39 sts (39 Sts) ch 1, turn

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Wrap around

the bun and sew the two short ends together.
Weave in all ends. (See pic. #7.)
Pic. #7
Legs (Make 2 starting in dark purple yarn)

R1: Ch 2, 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook

R2: *Inc* rep 7 times (14 sts)

R3-4: Sc in all 14 sts (14 sts)

Switch to beige yarn

R5a: Very loosely slip stitch in all 14 sts (14 sts)

R5: In the BLO (back loops only of the sl sts) sc in all 14 sts (14 sts) this is the only round we will
crochet in the back loops until R14. (See pic. #6.)

This is a special way of changing colors so that there is a neat, clean edge all around. The slip
stitch round (R5a) is not adding any height to the round and is just the foundation for the next
round (R5) so we get the clean edge from the bottom loops of the slip stitches. If you wish to do
a traditional color change, then disregard R5a. (See pic. #8.)

Pic. #8

© Holly Faith Salzman

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R6-9 for left leg: Sc in all 14 sts (5 rounds total—14 sts)

Finish off on the 1st leg.

R6-8 for right leg: Sc in all 14 sts (4 rounds total—14 sts)

R9 for right leg: Sc 13, switch to dark purple and sc 1 (We won’t be doing the “clean color
change” method until R14, so don’t worry about incorporating that into the next few rounds.
Just change colors like you normally would.)

Do NOT finish off or cut the yarn on the 2nd leg, instead, ch 2

We will now join the legs together and start making the body. The left leg is the one we finished
off on, the right leg is the one still attached to the yarn that we did not finish off. (From the doll’s
perspective.)

Body (continuing in dark purple yarn)

R10: Join the right leg to left leg with a sc in the 1st st of the left leg, now switch to beige yarn and
sc 12, switch to dark purple and sc 1, sc 1 in each of the next two chains (these are the chains we
made after the last round of the right leg), now we are crocheting on the right leg, sc 1, switch to
beige and sc 11, switch to dark purple and sc 2, sc 1 in each of the last two chains (32 sts) See
pics. #9 & #10.

Pic. #9
© Holly Faith Salzman
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Pic. #10
R11: In dark purple sc 2, switch to beige and sc 10, switch to dark purple and sc 6, switch to beige
and sc 9, switch to dark purple and sc 5 (32 sts)

R12: In dark purple sc 3, switch to beige and sc 8, switch to dark purple and sc 8, switch to beige
and sc 8, switch to dark purple and sc 5 (32 sts)

We will now continue in dark purple until R20

R13: Sc in all 32 sts (32 sts)

R14: In BLO sc in all 32 sts (32 sts) (We will use the front loops later on to create her skirt.)

R15-18: Sc in all 32 sts (4 rounds total—32 sts)

R19: Sc 5, dec, *sc 4, dec* rep 3 times, sc 5, dec

(26 Sts)

Switch to beige yarn

R20a: Very loosely sl st in all 26 sts (26 sts)

R20: In the BLO sc in all 26 sts (26 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff body

firmly.
Pic. #11

Skirt (Using dark purple yarn)

Holding the body upside down, starting at the back of the body, join dark purple yarn to the
front loops of R14 of the body. (See pics. #12 & #13.)

© Holly Faith Salzman

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Pic. #12 Pic. #13

R1: Sc in all 32 front loops from R14 (32 sts)

R2: *Inc* rep 32 times (64 sts)

R3: Sc in all 64 sts (64 sts)

Finish off and weave in your ends. Sew the

body to the head. You might want to add a
little more stuffing to her neck just before you
finish sewing it closed. (Pic. #14 & front pics.)

Pic. #14

Take an extra length of dark purple yarn and embroider her ballet shoe straps. Make an X on the
front about 2 rounds up and 5 sts wide. Now embroider a straight stitch across the 5 sts then
wrap the yarn around the remainder of her leg so there’s a “strap” in the back. Weave in all
ends. (See pic. #15.)

Pic. #15

© Holly Faith Salzman

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Arms (Make 2 using beige yarn)

R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook

R2: *Sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (8 sts)

R3-8: Sc in all 8 sts (6 rounds total—8 sts)

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly and sew the open ends of the arms closed. (See
pic #16.) Sew to the sides of the body just under the head. (See pic. #17.)

Pic. #16 Pic. #17

Dress fringe and straps (Using dark purple yarn)

Holding the doll upside down and starting at the back of the body, using the front loops of R20,
join dark purple yarn to the last stitch of that round.

R1: Sc 4, ch 8 and place over shoulder, sc 10, ch 8 for 2nd strap, sc 7 (See pic. #18.)

Finish off. Weave in all ends.

Pic. #18

© Holly Faith Salzman

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Finishing touches: Now that your fairy is done, you

can make her even more adorable by adding a little
blush to her cheeks! Try using real makeup/blush or
a Waldorf rouge crayon and rubbing it on her
cheeks. I used real blush for mine! If you did not
embroider her eyelashes on before you stuffed the
head, do so now.

Pic. #19
Sugar plum top (Using medium purple yarn)

R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook

R2: *Inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *Sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: Sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)

R6: *Sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R7-10: Sc in all 30 sts (4 rounds total—30 sts)

Finish off. No need to leave a long tail. Attach eyes between R8-9, 6 sts apart. Embroider a small
smile, about 2 sts wide, right between his eyes using black embroidery floss. (See pic. #20.) Now
take clear seed beads and a beading needle and sew the beads on, starting at the top and going
down to about R6 or 7. The beads should be more numerous at the top and thin out near the
bottom. (See pic. #21.)

Pic. #20 Pic. #21

© Holly Faith Salzman
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Sugar plum bottom (Using medium purple yarn)

R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook

R2: *Inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *Sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *Sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Now whipstitch the bottom of the sugar plum to the top.
They should match up exactly since there are 30 sts on the last round of both pieces. About
halfway around, insert a round piece of cardboard, about 1.5 inches in diameter, on the bottom.
This will ensure that your sugar plum has a flat bottom and can sit up on his own. Start to stuff
and continue as you go. (See pic. #22.)

Pic. #22

Congratulations, now you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this cutie and I would love to see
pictures of your finished fairy and plums! You can share pictures on:

Instagram: @storyland_amis

Facebook: Storyland Amis

Or email me: hello@storylandamis.com

If you did not buy this pattern from StorylandAmis.com or their affiliated sites (Storyland Amis
Etsy, Ravelry, Craftsy, AmigurumiPatterns.net, or LoveCrochet shops), you are using a stolen
pattern. Please contact me at hello@storylandamis.com if you think you may have bought this
pattern from a questionable source.

© Holly Faith Salzman