Balls To The Walls Knits - Iris Bloom Bonnet

1/19/2018 Balls to the Walls Knits: Iris Bloom Bonnet
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Wednesday, February 25, 2015
Iris Bloom Bonnet
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Iris Bloom Bonnet
First and foremost: yes, this yarn is divine. Simply heavenly. Gorgeous, pconverter
lovely to knit, and beautifully variegated. But even if you don't have or can't
find this particular fiber, you're in luck, because I have a sneaking suspicion
that this super fun hat would look great in almost any worsted weight yarn.
And if that's not incentive enough to make this hat, then consider this: I
actually wrote up two patterns for this little beauty - one version that
includes knitting in the round, and one that's made entirely on straight
needles. Both begin in the same way, below.
Note as of 11/24/15: This hat fits like an adult small. I have adapted the
in-the-round version of the pattern for an adult large in the comments
HELLO!
below. :)
http://www.ballstothewallsknits.com/2015/02/iris-bloom-bonnet.html 1/35
Yarn: Malabrigo Rios (100% Merino Superwash; 210 yards [192 meters]/100
grams); #416 Indiecita - one skein
Needles: One set of straight

needles in size US 5, one set of
straight needles in size US 7,
one 16" circular needle in size
US 7, and one set of double And welcome to my blog,
pointed needles (dpns), also in where I post a bunch of free
size US 7 (if you're knitting it knitting patterns! As for me,
entirely on straight needles, you I'm Gretchen, and I'm the
don't need the circulars or mother of three small boys
dpns) with a TON of one- and two-
ball stash yarn that I'm always
This stitch pattern makes me wanna say "yeah!" trying to find creative ways to
Notions: Tapestry needle, three My kids would be so embarrassed. knit up. Thanks for visiting!
stitch markers
Oh, and, for your convenience,
Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette you can find pictures of all
my patterns under the
So let's get started! For either version of this hat, we'll be working from the "galleries" tab up top and
brim of the piece, and we'll begin by working back and forth rather than in explanations of knitting terms
the round. As such, using your straight needles in size US 5, cast on 118 and abbreviations under
stitches loosely. Then work the following rows: "glossary."
Edging Row 1 (wrong side): p2, * k2, p2; rep from * Nou
Edging Row 2: k2, * p2, k2 *
Knit rows 1 & 2 until the piece measures just over 1" and you've just
finished Edging Row 1. Then we'll knit one marker placement row, as
follows:
-25%
Marker Placement Row (right side): k2, (p2, k2) 4 times, place marker, (p2,
k2) 20 times, p2, place marker, k2, * p2, k2 * until end of row
Complete this marker placement row and switch to your straight size US 7
needles. Then, we'll begin the main pattern, which is Knit-Twist Lattice from
Nou
page 149 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. To -27%
do it, you'll need the following notation:
rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next,
insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted
together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-
hand needle together Nou
-20%
lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch
and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into
the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back
loops, inserting right needle from the right)
And once you've got that down, we'll proceed like so:
Row 1 and all odd rows (wrong side): purl, slipping extra markers when you
come to them
Looking for something?
Row 2: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip
marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, Search
k1, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (114
stitches) Popular Right Now
Row 4: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip Iris Bloom
marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, ssk, Bonnet
knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (110 stitches) Iris Bloom
Bonnet First and
foremost: yes,
Row 6: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip this yarn is divine. Simply
marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, heavenly. Gorgeous, lovely
k3, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (106 to knit, and beautifully
variegated. ...
stitches)
River Rush Slouch Hat
Row 8: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until River Rush Slouch Hat size
you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until there Adult Large (hence the extra
are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (104 stitches) slouch on
Hedwig) I wish I
had a snappy
Row 10: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * story about this
until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until hat, but I really
do...
there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (102 stitches)
Wickerwork Hat
Row 12: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, Wickerwork Hat
k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until there are two I stumbled
stitches left before end of row, k2tog (100 stitches) across this yarn
in my stash the
other day and I realized that
Row 14: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * it would make the perfect
until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until there gift for a friend wh...
are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (98 stitches)
Row 16: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 *
until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until there
are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (96 stitches)
Knit rows 1 - 16. At this point, our pattern diverges - first, I will give
instructions for how to proceed with this hat in the round. After that, you'll
find instructions for finishing it up on straight needles. So, first, the in the
round version:
Now that we've finished these 16 rows, you should be about to begin a
wrong side row. Instead of doing that, however, we're going to join this bad
boy in the round. With that in mind, transfer work to your 16" circular
needle in size US 7, place marker, and join in round. And then we'll continue
like so:
Row 1 and all odd rows: knit, slipping extra markers when you come to them
Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until
you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of
round
Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 *
until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round
Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until
you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, knit until end
of round
Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until
you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until end of
round Blog Archive
► 2018 (2)
Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until
you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until end ► 2017 (21)
of round ► 2016 (38)
▼ 2015 (53)
Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 *
► December (3)
► November (4)
Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until ► October (4)
you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round ► September (5)
► August (5)
Row 16: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until
you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until end of ► July (5)
round ► June (4)
► May (4)
Knit rows 1 - 16, and then knit row 1 again, removing extra markers when
► April (5)
you come to them. Now it's time to begin the decrease portion of the hat,
which goes as follows: ► March (6)
▼ February (4)
Row 1: knit Iris Bloom Bonnet
Simple Eyelet Cowl
Row 2: * k10, k2tog * (88 stitches)
Little Ridges Fauxflap Hat
Rows 3 & 4: knit Blue Angel Headband
► January (4)
► 2014 (82)
Row 6: knit ► 2013 (42)

Bucatar din...
Row 8: knit
Ad lidl.ro
You will probably want to switch to your dpns about now... Nu ciupercii...
Ad SpaSocks
Floral Mesh...
Row 10: * k6, k2tog * (56 stitches) ballstothewallsk…
Magazin...
Ad Forever Living
Row 12: * k4, k2tog * (40 stitches) Wickerwork...

ballstothewallsk…
Cherry...
Row 14: * k2, k2tog * (24 stitches) ballstothewallsk…
Glossary
ballstothewallsk…
Row 16: * k2tog * (8 stitches) Pattern...
ballstothewallsk…
Knit rows 1 - 16, clip your yarn tail, and thread through final 8 stitches. Pull
tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. And now skip to the verrrrrry end of She's A...
the post (right above the pictures), for the last bit of instructions. And while
ballstothewallsk…
you in-the-round knitters are doing that, I'll finish up with the straight
needle knitters. So if you're working on straight needles, pick up here! Lace Cable...
ballstothewallsk…
Last I left you, you had just finished knitting 16 rows in pattern with
Pink...
decreases. You're going to be continuing in much the same fashion at this
point, except without the decreases. So let's proceed like so: ballstothewallsk…
I'm Lichen...
Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when you come
ballstothewallsk…
to them
Friend of...
Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until ballstothewallsk…
you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of
round
Labels
Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 *
#1 (6)
#2 (3)
Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until #3 (8)
you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, knit until end #4 (8)
of round #5 (6)
#6 (2)
Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until aran (1)
you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until end of arm warmers (2)
round
baby blanket (1)
bag (5)
Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until
balaclava (1)
you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until end
of round bib (1)
bulky (3)
Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * chunky (35)
until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round cowl (86)
cuff (2)
Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until dk (55)
you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round fingerless gloves (13)
hat (87)
Row 16: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until
headband (6)
you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until end of
housewares (10)
round
how-to (2)
Knit rows 1 - 16 and then knit row 1 again, removing extra markers when kids' knits (28)
you work it. Now it's time to begin the decrease portion of the hat, which leg warmers (3)
goes as follows: mittens (3)
poncho (1)
Row 1 (right side): knit scarf (13)
shawl (5)
Row 2: * p2tog, p10 * (88 stitches) shawlette (3)
sock (27)
Row 3: knit socks (2)
sport (32)
Row 4: purl
super bulky (4)
tutorials (1)
worsted (97)
Row 6: purl Zürich collection (9)
Row 8: purl
Row 10: * p2tog, p6 * (56 stitches)
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Row 14: * p2tog, p2 * (24 stitches) AFLAȚI MAI MULTE AM ÎNȚELES
Row 16: * p2tog * (8 stitches)
Knit decrease rows 1 - 16, and then thread final 8 stitches to a scrap of yarn
to hold for later. Beginning from where you stopped doing decreases in the
original pattern (and where the in-the-round knitters switched to the round),
seam hat. When you reach the top, pull seaming thread through final 8
stitches and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot.
And now, for both in-the-round and straight needle knitters, we'll wrap
up like so:
Make 2 roughly 6" yarn tassels (instructions here) and attach to bottom
corners of hat. Tuck in ends. Finally, if you completed this hat in the round,
you may want to knot together the two stitches where you joined this hat in
the round - although it should be fine structurally either way, knotting them
will prevent them from pulling apart when this hat is worn. And let's face it -
with a hat this cute, you're going to be wearing it a LOT.
Posted by Gretchen Tracy at 3:08:00 PM
Labels: hat, worsted
171 comments:
Sheila Bennett February 26, 2015 at 5:42 AM
Love this! Will have to give it a try. :)
Reply
Replies
Gretchen Tracy February 26, 2015 at 6:00 AM

Glad to hear it! It looks very nice on a real head, too! :)
glory mhazo March 24, 2016 at 12:15 AM

Hie Gretchen, thanks for the wonderful pattern, all the way from
South Africa, I found your pattern and just finished knitting it, left
with putting the tassels, how can I upload pictures for you...thanks
again
Gretchen Tracy March 24, 2016 at 12:27 AM

Hi there!
So glad to hear that you like the pattern, I'd love to see the finished
result! The easiest ways to get me pictures are either by email
(ballstothewallsknits@gmail.com), Facebook
(https://www.facebook.com/ballstothewallsknits), or tagging me on
Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/ballstothewallsknits/). I
can't wait to see your project!!!
Jane`s Daughter February 12, 2017 at 11:33 AM

Thank you for a wonderful pattern, I will send you a pic very soon.
Gretchen Tracy February 12, 2017 at 8:37 PM

Oooh, wonderful! Glad it turned out well, and I'll keep my eyes out
for the pic. :)
Reply
Anonymous February 26, 2015 at 6:09 AM

Looks lovely and can't wait to investigate stash for appropriate yarn.
Thanks for a wonderful start to the day and makes my knitting fingers itch to
begin.
Lynne
Reply
Replies

Hi Lynne!
Glad to hear you like it! And I hope you have something perfect in
your stash. :)
Reply
TerriSue February 26, 2015 at 10:34 AM

This one is so adorable. You never cease to amaze me.
Reply
Replies

Thanks TerriSue! I knit this one for someone in particular, which
always makes it fun. And helps me come up with new ideas!
Reply
Anonymous February 26, 2015 at 12:07 PM

Thank you so much for this beautiful pattern....Diane
Reply
Replies

You are very welcome! And I'm glad you like it! :)
Reply
Holly Tracy February 27, 2015 at 5:23 AM

This one is so original! I might have to try it! Or have you knit one for me?
Reply
Replies

Ha! You're cute, mom, very cute....
Reply
Anita February 28, 2015 at 4:32 PM

Here! here! yes, that yarn is gorgeous.
Great choice of pattern in which to use it.
Cheers, Anita.
Reply
Replies

Thanks Anita!
I pretty much want to go buy every colorway they have at the store!
I won't, but I may have to design a few more patterns with it. :)
Reply
JudyRyman March 1, 2015 at 1:05 PM

Thank you for this great pattern. It was my first try at the "twist" stitch and it
turned out fine. Thanks again!
Reply
Replies
Gretchen Tracy March 1, 2015 at 1:19 PM

Glad to hear it! Twisted stitches can be super fun... so I'm glad your
first attempt went well. :)
Reply
Kathy Flanagan August 23, 2015 at 8:32 PM

Question: On Marker Placement Row, I end up with markers placed
asymetrically--10 stitches - marker - 82 stiches - marker - 26 stitches.
Is this correct? Am I reading the directions correctly?
Reply
Kathy Flanagan August 23, 2015 at 8:34 PM

Duh! I just checked my math and I see what I was doing wrong. should be 18
- 82 - 18. Sorry for the dumb question.
Reply
Replies
Gretchen Tracy August 24, 2015 at 3:07 AM

No worries! I'm always happy to answer questions (and I love it
when people figure out their own answers!). :) Let me know if you
have any more!
Brian Goldrick October 10, 2015 at 9:57 AM

shouldn't there be 24 sts on each side of the bonnet? how can it be
18 when the directions say: Marker Placement Row (right side): k2,
(p2, k2) 4 times, place marker, 6x4=24
Gretchen Tracy October 10, 2015 at 12:03 PM

Hi there! The first k2 isn't repeated, only the directions in
parentheses. So you're knitting 2, then doing the (p2, k2) four
times. Let me know if you have any more questions! :)
Brian Goldrick October 10, 2015 at 6:15 PM

Thanks Gretchen, it's funny how I see the parentheses and ignore it!
Thus creating my problem! I'll post a picture of the bonnet on
Ravelry when it's competed, a gift for my cousin.
Gretchen Tracy October 11, 2015 at 3:33 AM

Sounds good! Let me know if you have any other questions. :)
Reply
Rachel October 6, 2015 at 10:20 AM

Gretchen, I'm currently working on this pattern on straight needles and I've
just finished up row 5. As I was doing row 5, I noticed I have 3 extra stitches
so I came off of row 4 with 113 sts instead of 110. Is there a way I can
decrease that you recommend so I won't end up messing the whole bonnet?
Reply
Replies

Hi there!
It sounds like you just missed a couple of the decreases. :) If you

don't want to rip back, then I suggest knitting row 6 as written.
Then, figure out which side of the bonnet has 2 of the extra stitches
and which one has 1 extra stitch. These should be between the ends
of the work and the stitch markers, not in the middle section. On the
end with the two extra stitches, you're going to want to p2tog, purl
until you have 2 stitches left in section, and p2tog-b (purl 2 together
through back loops). On the end with the one extra stitch, I would
probably go ahead and p2tog at the beginning and then purl the
rest. Does that help? :)
Rachel October 7, 2015 at 8:25 AM

That does make sense but my three stitches seem to be in the
middle, like 16-79-15.

Hmm... That's much more mysterious! The first issue is probably
that you only have 79 stitches in the middle - you should always
have 82 between your two markers, since all the decreases occur
outside the markers and the stitch pattern keeps a constant number
of stitches. My best guess is that you accidentally completed a twist
as a decrease, or that you stuck a few of your decreases between
your markers by mistake. Of course, with 82 in the middle and 110
as the desired stitch count, that also means that you should have 14
on each of the end portions. This makes me think that maybe you
did just put your decreases on the wrong sides of the markers. Did
everything line up when you knit row 4? Anyway, I'm not sure what
else I could say that might help. Unfortunately, it sounds like you
might have to rip back. If you'd like, you can also try to email me a
good photo of your work and I can see if I spot anything. It's
ballstothewallsknits@gmail.com, if you go that route. :)
Rachel October 7, 2015 at 11:05 PM

Ripping ferreted out the culprit: a botched twist. Everything lined up
when I went back.
...now that my coworkers can resume their gaze from across the
break room as I continue this bonnet on my lunch hour (or pull a
Wilson and peek over their cubicle wall when we hit a slow spell
between calls), all is well. Thanks! :D

Wonderful! Glad you found it. :) Sometimes those twists just don't
go as planned!!!
Reply
Anonymous October 28, 2015 at 3:42 PM

Hi, I love this hat, I love all your beautiful pieces! I had trouble with this one.
I made it with dk weight. which is only a but thinner. it's 258 yes instead of
210 for 100 grams. I did the gauge and it looked fine. but maybe I didn't do
it right. My hat is beautiful, but tiny like for a toddler.... could I had a few
more x's hod can I fix this. I just bought a fair bit of sport weight or dk
weight wools. Also, could you please post a pattern for a boys sweater ? I see
you have boys and I have a almost six yr old son. I would love a great
sweater pattern in the round. Thanks Becca
Reply
Replies
Gretchen Tracy October 28, 2015 at 5:38 PM

Hi Becca!
Yeah, I can imagine that this hat might turn out pretty small in dk
weight. :) You could always add 16 stitches to your middle section
and then make the hat basically as written - the only thing that
would change would be your stitch count on your decrease (although
the decrease itself would be identical). And I will keep your request
for a boys' sweater in mind (I have a 6-year-old myself!), but I
probably won't have time for it for awhile. Things are pretty hectic,
which is why I usually stick to smaller projects! :)

Wow! You always reply so quick!! I love it! could I add 32? is each
pattern piece 16? I will try to find some worsted wool soon. I never
have the right stuff around! so frustrating. I can't find the right stuff
for your adorable boys hat the red one full around head and neck.
I'm looking. I either find even more bulky or too thin.

I try to keep on top of things! :) And yes, the pattern repeat is 16,
although I just looked at my previous response and realized that I'm
wrong - you would have to work the decrease slightly differently
since I wrote it as a multiple of 12 stitches, not 8. If you add 16
stitches, add two decrease rows to the beginning of the decrease as
follows:
Row 1:* k12, k2tog *

Row 2: * k1, k2tog *
Then you should be able to pick up with the remainder of the

decrease. And if you add 32 stitches, add these rows to the
beginning:
Row 1: * k14, k2tog *

Row 2: * k13, k2tog *
Row 3:* k12, k2tog *
Row 4: * k1, k2tog *
As far as the other hat is concerned - I understand your frustration

in not finding the right yarn, but you could always order the
Plymouth Encore Chunky. They have a huge selection of it at
yarn.com! :)
Pernilla L August 25, 2017 at 4:12 AM

Hi! Sorry to ask, but should that really be a *k1, k2tog* on row 4?
Seeing as the main pattern starts with a *k10, k2tog*, shouldn't it
be a *k11, k2tog*? (Eleven instead of one)
Also, these are supposed to be separated by plain knit rows, right?

On no you're totally right, it's a typo! And yes, go ahead and put
plain knit rows between them (then you don't *have* to include all
of the plain knit rows at the remainder of the decrease, but it's up to
you. You can play it by ear!!!). :)
Pernilla L August 25, 2017 at 11:21 AM

Thank you! I assumed that it said k11, and just knit away! :) I had
two plain rounds before the first decrease round, and added 3 plain
rounds after the first decrease, 2 plain rows after the next two, 1
plain row after the next two again, and then knit the rest of them
every round. It worked well.
I also modified it a bit to be slightly deeper by joining the work ten
rows after the pattern told me to, and extending the lattice pattern
for another eight rounds. I used a slightly thinner yarn than you did
and wanted to compensate for that, and also wanted a slightly more
slouchy hat with room for a small hair bun, since I always wear my
hair up in the winter. If you want to see the result (and see my
mods written up) I'm aviganavigatrix on Ravelry. Thanks for a great
pattern!

That sounds amazing, I'm so glad it worked out well! And I will do
my best to check out your Ravelry pictures - thanks for sharing!!! :)
Reply

I'm so blown away by all your creations!! I love them!! Thank you for your
page, website, whatever this is called. It's the best��
Reply
Replies

Thank you! I'm so glad you're enjoying it. :) I have a lot of fun
making them!
Reply
Anonymous November 7, 2015 at 11:54 PM

Hello, thank you very much for this really exceptional hat pattern! How could
it be made for children from 2 years and above? I would very much
appreciate, if you help us!!! Thank you very much, Charis
Reply
Replies
Gretchen Tracy November 8, 2015 at 3:06 AM

Hi Charis!
Are you hoping to make it in the round or back and forth? I can help
you with a modified pattern if you let me know! :)

Thank you so much for your immediate reply. I'm so sorry I cannot
understand what you exactly mean by "in the round or back and
forth". Maybe you mean knitting with circular or straight needles? If
it is, I prefer working with straight ones. Any way, I would extremely
appreciate your help with a modified pattern. Thank you so much
again!!!

Yes, I meant circulars or straights. :) And you can find the revised
pattern below. Of course, I haven't knit it, so please let me know if
there are any problems! Oh, and I had to post it in two separate
comments, since it's too big!
Using your straight needles in size US 5, cast on 110 stitches

loosely. Then work the following rows:
Edging Row 1 (wrong side): p2, * k2, p2; rep from *
finished row 1 of the pattern. Then we'll knit one marker placement
row, as follows:
Marker Placement Row (right side): k2, (p2, k2) 4 times, place
marker, (p2, k2) 18 times, p2, place marker, k2, * p2, k2 * until end
of row
Complete this marker placement row and switch to your straight size
US 7 needles. Then, we'll begin the main pattern, like so:
Row 1 and all odd rows (wrong side): purl, slipping extra markers
when you come to them
Row 2: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog,
slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before
second marker, k1, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches
left in row, k2tog (114 stitches)
slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip
marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (110
stitches)
slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second
marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left
in row, k2tog (106 stitches)
Row 8: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k4, * rt,
k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker,
knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (104
stitches)
lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip
marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog
(102 stitches)
k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until
k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker,
stitches)
Row 16: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k8, * lt,
k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker,
stitches)

Knit rows 1 - 16. Now you’re going to be continuing in pattern,
except without the decreases, like so:
Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when
you come to them
Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt *
until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker,
knit until end of round
Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt,
k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of
round
Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 *
until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker,
Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 *
until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit
until end of round
Knit rows 1 - 8 and then knit row 1 again, removing extra markers
when you work it. Now it's time to begin the decrease portion of the
hat, which goes as follows:
Row 1 (right side): knit
Row 2: purl
Row 4: purl
Row 6: purl
Knit decrease rows 1 - 14, and then thread final 8 stitches to a scrap
of yarn to hold for later. Beginning from where you stopped doing
decreases in the original pattern (and where the in-the-round
knitters switched to the round), seam hat. When you reach the top,
pull seaming thread through final 8 stitches and pull tight. Thread to
inside of hat and knot.
Finally, make 2 roughly 6" yarn tassels and attach to bottom corners
of hat. Tuck in ends.
Charis Chelioti November 12, 2015 at 1:03 PM

Thank you so much, dear Gretchen!!! You are so kind!!! i'm going to
knit two (different colour) for my twin grand daughters. They are
two years old and I have knitted a lot of nice things for them. I live
in Athens, Greece and they live in London. So, now it's my greatest
pleasure to prepare a parcel with so many nice knits and books in
greek for them!! Thank you very much and I wish all the best to you
and your family. Lots of love, Charis
Gretchen Tracy November 12, 2015 at 1:11 PM

Hi Charis! I hope this pattern works well for you. :) I can only
imagine how cute your granddaughters will be in them! And I went
to Athens once, over Christmas. Everything was closed so I sat in
my hotel room watching music videos. Next time I go I'm hoping to
make it to the islands (and I won't go over Christmas)!!!
Charis Chelioti November 12, 2015 at 2:23 PM

To be honest, Christmas is not the right time to visit Greece. It's
November and the temperature is still about 24-25 degrees here in
Athens! But in summer, or spring is ideal everywhere and especially
on the islands.

I'll keep that in mind! :)
Reply
Anonymous November 22, 2015 at 12:07 AM

My name is Templa ....for some reason couldnt comment using my
account...Getting ready to jump in to this project... its beautiful! And going to
be great Christmas gifts. I hope I don't end up with more questions than this
...but on this pictured hat I love the tassles. Is there anyway to guesstimate
how much yarn it took to make them that big? Or how many times it was
wrapped around the cardboard? Any help would be great!
Reply
Replies

Hi Templa!
In my tassel tutorial I wrapped the yarn 30 times, and that one

turned out slightly less full, and was made with bulkier yarn. So I
would guess... 40 - 50 times for this one? As far as how much yarn
it takes, that's easier! These are roughly 6" tassels, so one wrap
takes about 12". Therefore, each tassel requires 13 - 17 yards of
yarn, more or less. :)

You're a gem!! Thanks so much!!

Always happy to help. :)

Ok....super excited!! I did mine in a pink and green and brown
variegated yarn from Caron simply soft.....it's so adorable. ..I
wanted to post a pic but I can't :( anywho I did a tiny
revision.....when finishing....instead of holding your 8 stitches at the
top and sewing up....instead i pulled my yarn through and seamed
down...was a bit easier....thank u again...and I'm gonna go get
started on a few more! Oh the tassles advice was perfect! Happy
holidays to you and your family..you've given a great gift to
everyone!

Glad to hear it turned out so well! And yeah, you can't post pics in
my comments. You can always post one on Facebook, if you'd like!
:)
Reply
Lady Venus November 22, 2015 at 8:07 AM

Is this sized for a child? I did the gague swatch and even went up in needle
size and this barely stays on my 22" head.
Reply
Replies

No, it's sized for an adult, but it has run small for some people. Let
me know if you're making it on circulars or straights and I can help
you size it up, if you'd like. :)
Lady Venus November 22, 2015 at 7:40 PM

Circulars. I ribbed on a 6 and did the body on an 8. I SUPER love
this pattern and i would love to have one that fits. lol

As requested, here are in-the-round instructions for an adult large
version of this hat. As always when I haven’t knit something myself,
I may have missed something or failed to think something through
properly. Let me know if there are any problems!
Oh, and I had to post them in two comments, since it’s too long! :)
Using your straight needles in size US 5, cast on 126 stitches

loosely. Then work the following rows:
Knit rows 1 & 2 until the piece measures roughly 1.75” and you've
just finished row 1 of the pattern. Then we'll knit one marker
placement row, as follows:
of row
Complete this marker placement row and switch to your straight size
US 7 needles. Then, we'll begin the main pattern, like so:
Row 4: ssk, knit until you reach marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt,
k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until you have
2 stitches left in row, k2tog (120 stitches)
stitches)
(114 stitches)
stitches)
stitches)

Knit rows 1 - 16. Now that we've finished these 16 rows, you should
be about to begin a wrong side row. Instead of doing that, however,
we're going to join this bad boy in the round. With that in mind,
transfer work to your 16" circular needle in size US 7, place marker,
and join in round. And then we'll continue like so:
Row 1 and all odd rows: knit, slipping extra markers when you come
to them
Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt *
until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker,
round
Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 *
until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker,
until end of round
Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4
* until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker,
Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt,
round
Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt
* until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit
until end of round
Row 16: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 *
until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit
until end of round
Knit rows 1 - 16, and then knit rows 1 - 9 again, removing extra
markers when you come to them. Now it's time to begin the
decrease portion of the hat, which goes as follows:
Row 1: knit
Rows 3 & 4: knit
Row 6: knit
Row 8: knit
You will probably want to switch to your dpns about now...
Row 16: * k2tog * (9 stitches)
Knit rows 1 - 16, clip your yarn tail, and thread through final 9
stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. Make 2 roughly
6" yarn tassels and attach to bottom corners of hat. Tuck in ends.
Finally, you may want to knot together the two stitches where you
joined this hat in the round - although it should be fine structurally
either way, knotting them will prevent them from pulling apart when
this hat is worn.
Gretchen Tracy December 12, 2016 at 8:21 PM

As a note, row 6 in the first part of the pattern above (that reads
in row, k2tog (118 stitches)) is incorrect - it should read Row 6: ssk,
knit until you reach marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're
7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, knit until you
have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (118 stitches)
I can't edit the above comment, or I would! :) However, if you don't

see this note until it's too late, simply skip the last decrease in rows
2 & 5 of the decrease and you should be back on track!!! :)
Reply
Brian November 29, 2015 at 12:59 AM

Hello, What size circumference head is the small adult & large adult?
Reply
Replies

Hi there!
The adult small should be good for up to about a 22.5" head and I'd
go for the large for a bigger one. This hat also seems to be
particularly susceptible to each knitter's personal quirks, since I've
seen plenty of size small hats that fit various adults very well, and
I've also seen projects made exactly the same way that turn out
more child size. Long story short, gauge is important, and I'd veer
towards large if you're on the fence! :)
Reply
Kimberley Barrett November 29, 2015 at 8:16 AM

Hi Gretchen!
Just wanted to let you know I've made this pattern four times over the past
month and love each and every hat. Your pattern is absolutely perfect and
very easy to follow. I know my family will love their new Christmas hats -
thank you, thank you, thank you so much!!!! xoxoox :-)
Reply
Replies

Yay! I'm so happy to hear it. :) And it sounds like you will make
some people very happy this Christmas!!!
Reply
Unknown November 30, 2015 at 10:11 PM

i just recently knittted this hat, and it ended up HUGE. Three days later, I was
browsing some of your other patterns and discovered that you used US sizes,
and not mm...
Reply
Replies
Gretchen Tracy December 1, 2015 at 5:43 AM

I'm sorry to hear that! Some of my older patterns are still missing
the US distinction, but all of my newer ones (including this one) are
marked correctly. Perhaps you can find a large-headed friend? :)
Reply
Dizzy Mog December 2, 2015 at 11:20 AM

Hello, I'm going to try this in DK wool on the larger size.... will let you know
how it goes..
Reply
Replies

Good luck! :)
Reply
Anonymous December 2, 2015 at 2:55 PM

Stunning. I will make it for my daughter as m6 next personal project. I do
knit to sell. If I made this and it sold would that be okay? Would you like any
money? I knit for the cost of yarn plus 30 to 40 dollars, more to support the
habbit, certainly won't retire so I keep my day job.
Reply
Replies
Gretchen Tracy July 25, 2016 at 10:13 PM

Oh my god I just found this comment in my spam folder! I'm so
sorry, but I'm hoping a reply is better late than never!!! Anyway,
yes, go ahead and sell away, the only thing I ask for is pattern credit
if you're doing it online! :)
Reply

After the initial 16 round pattern, do you knit rows 1-16 or repeat rows 1-16?
Same with decrease section?
Reply
Replies

Eep! Apparently I haven't been checking my spam folder, which is
where this comment turned up! I truly apologize. Anyway, I always
give the total to knit - so if I write out 16 rows and then say "knit
rows 1 - 16" I mean to knit them once, not twice. Again, sorry I'm a
million years late!!!
Reply
Sheryll Rounsville December 24, 2015 at 7:44 AM

After the first 16 rows, I take it the 1-16 next is without the decreases?
Reply
Replies

Hi Sheryll!
Yes, the next sixteen rows don't have any decreases on the sides
like the first sixteen. Let me know if you have any other questions!
:)
Reply
Katrine December 29, 2015 at 1:41 AM

Hi Gretchen
What a beautiful bonnet... it is like a work of art!
I am so looking forward to knitting it :)
Do you have any measurements for the ribbed edge (the k2,p2-part) - the
full length measured flat - without the tassels?
I think it is so cute when this part it is long (like in your photo), going around
the face and down towards the shoulders...
Thx :)
Reply
Replies

Hi Katrine!
I'm glad to hear you like the pattern! :) And the ribbed edging
measures about 26 1/4 inches in length. Let me know if you have
any other questions!
Katrine December 29, 2015 at 4:38 PM

Thank you. Well yes, actually I do have some more questions :)
I was thinking of making the ribbed edging and the earflaps a little
extra long, like 28 inches (as the edging tends to «shrink»
somewhat due to its ribbed structure) - while keeping the rest of the
hat (the part after joining in the round) more snug and fit around
my head (22 inches).
My gauge for the ribbed edging with Malabrigo Rios yarn is 35 sts =
7,4 inches.
So casting on 118 sts will only make the ribbed edging 25 inches. So
I might need to cast on 134 or 142 sts. But I would like to arrive at
96 sts for the "in the round-part», because I don´t want the whole
hat to be an XL-size. Do you see what I mean?
If you have any suggestions for the decreases (in the diamond part-
section) to achieve this, I would be very grateful. Unless I will just
experiment myself… Thank you :)

Hi again!
I don't think you will have trouble making these changes - you can
simply build double decreases into the hat instead of the singles (so
instead of starting with ssk, knit until you have 2 before marker,
k2tog, just do ssk, ssk, knit until you have 4 stitches before marker,
k2tog, k2tog. You will need to figure out the math on exactly how
you'll do it once you figure out your cast on number (or I can help
you with that). I don't think you need to be too fussy, though! As
long as you build the decreases in regularly it should look great. Just
don't forget to place your stitch markers differently if you change
your cast on number! You will still want the same number of pattern
stitches in the middle, just more stitches on each side. :) Anyway,
like I said, if you determine your cast on number and want more
guidance I'm happy to help. I also feel confident telling you that you
should be fine to do it yourself!
Katrine December 30, 2015 at 2:28 PM

OK :) But IF I was to keep the same amount of decreases per row
(4), but instead increase for some more rows, the earflaps would
just become a little be wider, right?
How many sts should be left on the sides of each marker/earflap- in
your original design with 118 sts cast on - before joining in the
round?
I have casted on 134 sts now, and finished with the ribbed edging.
When placing the markers, should I then have 82 sts in the middle,
and 26 sts on each side? I am a bit confused about how many sts
there are in each diamond-pattern repetition...

Hi Katrine!
I am not quite sure about your first question - are you saying you
would keep the decreases the same but knit the diamond pattern for
one more repeat? Yes, you could definitely do that, although the hat
would become deeper, so it would fit differently.
Otherwise - yes, you should have 82 in the middle and 26 on each

side. The diamond pattern repetition takes 8 stitches, plus some
side stitches to make it look right. As you can see from the pictures,
however, it doesn't go all the way around the hat.
Anyway, I hope I've answered your questions! Let me know if I

haven't. :)
Katrine January 1, 2016 at 3:32 AM

Hi Gretchen, thank you so much for answering all my questions.
Happy New Year :)
Gretchen Tracy January 2, 2016 at 10:05 AM

You are very welcome! Please let me know if you have any more.
And Happy New Year to you as well!!! :)
Reply
Unknown December 31, 2015 at 3:06 AM

I'm self taught and relatively new to knitting. After I knit the edging and the
marker placement row and row 1, I have 118 stitches 18-82-18. When I knit
row 2 I have 116 stitches 17-82-17. The pattern says I should have 114
stitches. What am I missing?
Reply
Replies

Probably two decreases! ;) Each side has a ssk and a k2tog, so you
should be decreasing by four stitches each right side row. Let me
know if you have any other questions, or if I didn't straighten this
out for you! :)
Don Reed January 1, 2016 at 10:29 AM
Happy New Year. Thanks a lot I was taking ssk as slip stitch
knitwise.

Happy New Year to you as well! And I am always happy to answer
questions, don't worry. :)
Reply
Polly Fox January 10, 2016 at 4:49 AM

I am quite used to knitting but I have a query that may seem obvious to you.
When you say "slip marker" does this mean slip i.e don't knit the marked
stitch just slip it?
Reply
Replies

Hi Polly!
The markers are simply in the pattern so you don't have to count a
bunch of stitches on the sides of the piece, but instead just count
from the markers. For that reason, they should be more or less
ignored, which is why I've instructed to slip them. What I mean by
that is that you should perform the instructions up to the marker
(knitting or whatever on each stitch as instructed), then slip the
marker from your left needle to your right needle so it maintains its
position in the pattern but does nothing else. Then you will continue
as instructed, knitting or whatnot on the stitch directly after the
marker. The more I write about this the less sense I feel I'm making,
so let me know if I haven't been clear! Basically I'm just trying to
say that they're placeholders, but you should continue to work all of
the stitches around them! :)
pauline sparkes January 18, 2016 at 10:29 AM

I am now quite clear about the placement of markers. They are on
the needles between stitches. The problem I continue to have is that
in row 2, working over the 82 constant stitches, starting with a knit
stitch and working the twist and knit stitches as described, I end up
with 3 stitches before the marker. I have knitted up to row 12 four
times and have stopped and started again because there are two
extra stitches on on side of the patterned section.
I have printed off a grid and marked out the pattern and still cannot
see where i am going wrong. Indeed, if you take of the knit stitches
at the beginning of the patterned section, you are left with 80
stitches. If you then divide those 80 stitches by the 6 stitches that
compose the pattern, you do not have a complete final 6. I cannot
get past this problem, help please!

Hi Pauline!
The pattern is actually composed of 8 stitches, since the lt and the rt

are both made with two stitches apiece. I'm not exactly sure how
you're ending up with three extra stitches at the end of row 2,
although if you are somehow working those twists with just one
stitch then that math works out. So - are you somehow working
these twists with just one stitch? Because, with an eight stitch
pattern, the 80 stitches + 2 should work out! :)
pauline sparkes January 20, 2016 at 1:41 AM

I can see my error very clearly now and will start again soon!

Oh good! Let me know if you have any other questions! :)
Reply
knitsky January 18, 2016 at 11:43 AM

Hi Gretchen,
Love the hat and am just starting the pattern at row 1, purl all wrong sides
where you do the left and right twists. I am counting ahead a bit to make
sure I'm doing this row 2 correctly and end up with the correct counts. I
currently have the 118 stitches. I have 18 on each end before/after the
markers and 82 between the markers. No matter how I count this out, I have
100 stitches at the end of row 2, not 114. So I'm decreasing each stitch by
one on the first 18, leaving 9, no decreases between the markers, and
another 9 decreases after the second marker. I'm getting 9 before, 82, 9
after, that comes to 100, not 114. What am I missing? Thank you for the
awesome pattern!
Reply
knitsky January 18, 2016 at 12:11 PM

Oy! Brainless I am. I just walked away from the pattern and came back to it,
picked it up and read row 2 again. It is a ask, then knit, then k2tog. I was
decreasing the whole time before the markers. Duh. Sorry to bother you with
this, just ignore my previous post question.
Reply
Replies
Gretchen Tracy January 18, 2016 at 10:10 PM

Oh good! I love it when people answer their own questions!!!! :) But
please let me know if you have any others... :)
Reply
pauline sparkes January 18, 2016 at 3:15 PM

Thank you for replying so quickly. I really love this bonnet and hope i get it
right this time. I will look at it again and try to work out where I have gone
wrong.
Reply
Replies

Sounds good! Sorry I couldn't be more help. :)
Reply
Anonymous January 21, 2016 at 2:32 PM

Mine is a simple question (I hope). On the pattern, the Gauge shows that 18
stitches = 4 inches. Is this using size 5 or size 7 straight needles.Thank you.
Reply

Further to my question about the gauge. It usually consists of number of
stitches and number of rows. But only stitches are mentioned. Can you
please explain this in more detail. Thank you.
Reply
Replies

The gauge is achieved with size US 7 needles, and the row gauge is
about 26 stitches per 4 inches. Let me know if you have any more
questions! :)
Reply
Hi, I was recently diagnosed with breast cancer and have started chemo and
consequently lost my hair so I am really excited to try this pattern. This hat is
adorable! It will cover my head and keep me warm. It's hard to find cute hat
patterns that cover the entire head, so thank you!!! :)
Reply
Replies

I'm sorry to hear about your diagnosis but hope this hat will serve
you well. Please let me know if you have any questions! :)
Reply

Thank you.
Reply
Replies

:)
Reply
intentionality January 30, 2016 at 11:49 PM

I really want to make this hat. You are very talented and I have to admit that
is is going to be the most technically difficult project I have ever taken on. I
would like to use a Noro 50/50 silk/wool, it is 100 gr but the yardage is only
150 meters. Do you have recommendations regarding stitch count and or
needle size variations or do you not advise this substitute?
Thank you.
Reply
Replies

Hi there! This hat runs a little small and I think your fiber may be a
decent substitution. However, I'm having trouble figuring out exactly
which yarn you're using. Can you give me the name of it or any
more gauge information? Then I can help more! :)
Reply
intentionality January 31, 2016 at 9:25 AM

One of thing I did not make clear is that I only have one skien. I bought it
from a sale bin a couple of years ago. This Noro is called Kogarashi. The tag
says 100 gr, 150 meters, US 8 or 10 mm. I just want to get this right the first
time.
Thank you
Reply
Replies

Ah hah! That complicates things somewhat. :) Long story short, of
course I can't guarantee that the yarn will get this hat done.
However, I strongly suspect that you could finish it, but I'm not
100% sure about the tassels. If you decide to do it, I would probably
knit it basically as-is - you could gauge up to size US 6/US 8
needles, or you could simply knit the bigger yarn with the 5's and
7's and I imagine it would turn out nicely. Of course, as I say this, I
realize that it's definitely more of an experimental project that it
sounds like you want to undertake. We could also adapt the hat to
have 8 less stitches. Then I am nearly positive you would have
enough yarn, although the tassels might still be in question...
Reply
intentionality January 31, 2016 at 11:15 AM

Ok, the tassels were probably going to be omitted or likely replaced with
something smaller. I am older than you and the tassels are a little too young
for my taste. By changing needle size would you just knit the whole thing on
a 6? ......and where would you reduce the stitches, is that going to make the
hat small, my head is 22" circumference.
Still wanting to consider everything before I dive in.
Reply
Replies

Oh sorry, I meant the ribbing on 6's and the bulk of the hat on 8's.
:) And if we cut 8 stitches and you were getting 16 stitches = 4 inch
gauge then the hat would fit perfectly. If you're strongly considering
this project I suggest making two small swatches, one on size 7
needles and one on size 8 or 9. Then you can figure out your gauge
and there will be a lot less guesswork involved!
Reply
Glenys Dunford March 28, 2016 at 3:36 PM

Oh I'm knitting socks at the moment Tomorrow I'm going to knit this bonnet
oh your so clever, I love your patterns thank you so much for sharing your
genius. Xxx
Reply
Replies
Gretchen Tracy March 28, 2016 at 7:09 PM

I'm glad you like the pattern, I loved the way this one turned out!!!
:) Anyway, let me know if you have any questions, I'm always happy
to help! :)
Reply
Unknown July 20, 2016 at 4:16 PM

Hi there, just finished my first of these hats and it was fun and fabulous! No
sure what the heck happened....yes I did a swatch but it ended up using
exactly the same yarn as you did & needles >>> to be a child size! yikes.
Bought more yarn and saw your large adult addition- thanks for that. I
decided our family much have gigantic head so I added 12 MORE to what you
suggested which gave me 138 stitches total. All was well on round 4 of
pattern and I had 3 stitches left before the 2nd marker ending this row! I
carefully went back and looked and my knitting and it was without any errors,
Yikes! I'm afraid to go forward as the pattern is a building one and I don't
want to mess it up! any ideas much appreciated! I have now 132 st left on
my needle with 16 stitches on R & L of their markers. It's just that difference
in stitches ending that row that has scared me into submission. Thanks in
advance
Reply
Stephanie Casper July 20, 2016 at 4:20 PM

I never posted before and the above comment is me...hate 'unknown'
sorry!
Stephanie
Reply
Replies

Hi Stephanie! First off, I apologize but I am out of town and working
from my phone so it's a bit harder for me to look back at the pattern
to help. However, it doesn't sound like your stitch pattern is messed
up, just the number of stitches you have on the edges? If that's the
case I really wouldn't worry about it - decrease slightly lopsidedly if
you need to to even the stitch count on either side and get to the
number of stitches you want for your hat, and then proceed from
there! I don't think you'll even notice when you're done.
Oh, and if I misunderstood your question let me know!!! :)
Stephanie Casper July 21, 2016 at 12:32 AM

Oh sorry Gretchen for catching you out of town. Thanks so much for
your quick response. No it's the number of stitches just before the
markers where the pattern begins and disappears into the
stockinette stitch. my stitch count outside after the marker is equal.
Row 4 you are just starting to build on the design and I don't want
to throw off how that all lines up at all. If it was after the markers I
would just fudge it through....sigh. did that make any sense? so
much for my ad libbing a giant size hat! :)
Gretchen Tracy July 21, 2016 at 6:30 AM

Ah hah! Gotcha. Still though, I wouldn't worry too much. Count out
the repeats and see if you're actually missing a stitch or if you've
added a stitch or anything, and then just increase/decrease to
compensate. Yes, it will be a small error but nothing you'll see in a
finished piece! I am a perfectionist, personally, but I've learned that
knitting is not nearly as fussy as I am!!!!
Stephanie Casper July 21, 2016 at 9:45 AM

yes me too....knitting helps me with that for sure! ok I will just
make it work. guess I will see right off if the pattern within the
markers isn't lining up and can rip it out. I carefully went over each
stitch and see no issue. Guess I was wondering if adding another 12
stitches in the middle would change the pattern st before each
marker....fingers crossed not. If it says one stitch left before marker
I will just make sure it is one stitch! thanks for kindly taking the
time to help me. I LOVE your site and take on things~! Me thinks I
would go crazy without the knitting at times!~ haha! take care~
Gretchen Tracy July 21, 2016 at 11:00 AM

Oh my gosh yes I'm totally asleep, you're right! Adding twelve
stitches between the markers will make it goofy - you need to add a
multiple of eight. However, you can just add k2 to either side and be
okay... I hope I haven't messed you up too much by not reading
your question well enough! I apologize! :)
Reply
Anonymous August 23, 2016 at 8:34 AM

After the 1st 16 rows do you start knitting in the round
Reply
Replies
Gretchen Tracy August 23, 2016 at 8:56 PM

Yes, that's right! Let me know if you have any more questions! :)
Reply
Unknown October 21, 2016 at 3:06 AM

Can you tell me what ssk stands for? Have sorted needle sizes in mm's and
sorted out appropriate yarn but can't decipher 'ssk'.
Reply
Replies

Hi there! Ssk stands for slip, slip, knit, a standard two-to-one, left-
leaning decrease. You can find more information about it, and other
glossary-related questions on my glossary page, here:
http://www.ballstothewallsknits.com/p/glossary-of-knitting-
terms.html
Let me know if you have any other questions! :)
Angel Tighe October 21, 2016 at 12:50 PM

Thank you so much for your prompt reply. Can't believe that I didn't
know that for the amount of knitting I have done throughout my life.

No worries, it happens! :) And let me know if you have any other
questions!!!
Reply

Hello! What an awesome hat for a cold Canadian winter. I am looking forward
to trying out this pattern, but I need help with the yarn weight. I don't
understand what 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams means. Is this a
worsted weight?
Thanks,
Leslie
Reply
Replies

Hi Leslie!
The yardage is given more so you know how much yarn you need -
you can figure out the weight from the gauge (18 stitches = 4
inches falls in the worsted category according to the Craft Yarn
Council's guide: http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html), or
from the tag at the bottom of the post, below the pictures (and
again, yes, this one is worsted!)! Anyway, let me know if you have
any other questions, I'm always happy to help. :)
Unknown November 20, 2016 at 1:39 PM

Thanks for the reply Gretchen...I appreciate it. I missed the tag at
the bottom...oops! And I love the Craft Yarn Council weight guide.
Perfect! Thanks again!

No worries! I know it's kind of hidden!!! :)
Reply

Gretchen, I absolutely love all of your patterns! You are very talented.
(Especially if you're doing this with 3 little boys at home.) I just finished this
hat, it came out beautiful, and I made the tassels, but I'm just not sure how
to attach them. Do you sew them on? Thank you for posting all of these, I
have about 4 more that I want to do ...right now! :)
Anne
Reply
Replies

Hi Anne! You should be able to just tie the tassels on using the tie
that you tied the top with (was that enough repetitions of the word
"tie"?). Then you can either tuck in the ends on your hat or thread
them back through and down and out the tassel and snip them off!
:)
Reply
kaihiki44 December 12, 2016 at 2:26 PM

Hello Gretchen. I have been knitting the large size hat that you posted higher
up in the comments...casting on 126 stitches. I am wondering if there is a
math problem in the instructions with the first 16 rows and the
decreases...row 2 and 4 are correct leaving you with 120 stitches. But then
row 6 decreases by 4 stitches, therefore should leave you with 116 (not 118).
Then the remaining rows need to be corrected by 2 each. Total number of
stitches should be 106? Am I wrong? I was so puzzled after row 16 that I had
only 106 and not 108 stitches. I went back and this is what I figured out. I
haven't gotten to the decreases for the crown of the hat yet. But I assume
there will need to be corrections for that math as well perhaps?
Anyway, it's a great pattern and I've been enjoying knitting it so far.
Reply
Replies
kaihiki44 December 12, 2016 at 2:50 PM

I've now gotten to the decrease for the crown. Row 2, I end up with
98 stitches, ending with K10 and no stitches left for the last
decrease. I'm thinking maybe I should start that row with a K2Tog,
then proceed with K10 K2Tog? Can you help me out on that?

Yes, you're right, row 6 is a problem (and unfortunately I can't
modify comments, so I can't fix it!). And the best way to deal with it
is just to skip that last k2tog in both rows 2 & 5 of the decrease, and
not make up for it. Then by the time you finish row 5 your stitch
count will be correct, and I promise you you won't notice in the
finished hat unless you look for it very carefully!!! :) And sorry for
the confusion! I'll post a note in the comment below that comment,
and wish I could edit! :)
Reply
Susan's NeedleArts December 20, 2016 at 9:32 PM

Just finished this hat for my daughter. I used a lovely green yarn. Just have
to put on the tassels. Will post a picture on your Facebook page.
Reply
Replies

Yay! :) Thanks for sharing, glad it worked out!!!
Reply
Susan's NeedleArts December 20, 2016 at 9:46 PM

I'm going to try a pair of fingerless mitts to match.
Reply
Replies

That sounds lovely!
Reply

Hi there! This is really lovely, can't wait to give it a try! I'd love to use some
wonderful 3 ply ww alpaca but I'm afraid I have only 200 yds rather than
210. Would using another yarn for the tassels stretch it out enough? Thanks!
Reply
Replies

Glad you like the pattern! :) And I *think* you'll probably have
enough yarn either way, but if you don't it shouldn't be a problem to
use something contrasting for the tassels. And let me know if you
have any other questions! :)
Reply
Edna December 31, 2016 at 12:05 PM

HI Gretchen! Thanks for this great pattern! I am wondering about the
decrease section. I'm working in the flat. Are the decreases supposed to line
up or are they scattered? The picture looks like they line up but mine are not.
Also, is there any way to avoid having the decreases right at the edge? They
make it a bit more difficult to seam the finished item nicely.
Reply
Replies

Hi Edna!
To answer your questions: first, yes, the decreases should line up

(and I've looked back through the pattern and it looks to me like
I've written things correctly, although I definitely make mistakes
now and again). And secondly, yes, there is of course a way to write
the decreases without appearing at the edges of the hat, but for
symmetry's sake and the constraints of writing the pattern in two
versions that's what I felt was best. If you'd prefer you could always
move the first/last decrease in by one stitch, so that it's not at the
edge! :)
Edna January 1, 2017 at 5:41 PM

Thanks for your reply and happy new year! I've ripped back to start
the decrease section again. Maybe I will have better luck with it this
time around. I may just give myself some markers to keep me on
track. I the I will try doing the decreases by moving them in from
the edge by half the number of plain stitches. It should still be
symmetrical and have the same number of decreases without any
on the very edge until the few final rows.

Sounds like you have a good plan in place! Good luck, and let me
know if you have any other questions! :)
Reply
Anonymous January 9, 2017 at 2:50 AM

Hi, I have a problem that I cannot figure out for the life of me. I have gotten
to the second half,where you do the 1-16 rows again but without the
decreases, but row 2 is not lining up with row 16. I have re-worked the hat
twice and still have the same problem and was hoping maybe you could help.
Reply
Replies

Hi there!
I've looked back over the pattern and I only have one decent(ish)
idea for you; perhaps you're thinking that row 16 is just like row 8,
where you just work crosses. However, on row 16 you also had two
twisted pattern stitches that you sort of abandoned from row 14 -
the first rt, one stitch in from your first marker, and the last lt, one
stitch away from your second marker. Maybe row 2 looks like it
doesn't line up because you're forgetting about those stitches, so
the immediate lt seems to come from nowhere, when in fact it's
picking up on the pattern from row 14?
Anyway, I have no idea if I'm making any sense or not, or if this is

your problem. If things still seem mysterious email me a picture at
ballstothewallsknits@gmail.com and I'll see if I can do another
diagnosis! :)

Thank you for getting back to me so quickly! I will go back over
what I have done and see. Thank you again.

Happy to (hopefully) help. And, like I said, send me an email if
things still aren't working out! :)
Reply
srimathi February 1, 2017 at 11:35 PM

hi, I like ur hat, beautifully done . I started with it but stuck in doing rt n lt...
not able to decipher it, as i am getting 2 sts at a time in the needle. so when
i do the purls on the wrong side shd i do them separately or 2 at a time
(counting it as one )??? while seeing the pattern on the hat I dont see ant
twisted sts but feel them as slipped stitch done in a rhombus shape. where I
am wrong??
Reply
Replies

Hi, yes, each rt and lt starts with 2 stitches and ends with two
stitches, which will be close together on the needle, as you have
noticed. They should be worked separately, as two purls, and you
will begin to see the twisted stitch pattern emerge as you continue!
:)
srimathi February 2, 2017 at 5:41 AM

thank u
Reply
Anonymous February 18, 2017 at 10:29 AM

I was shopping for a merino wool hat when I stumbled on your site. You have
many beautiful designs and I have been inspired to get back into knitting. I
just picked up Malabrigo Rio 863 Zarzamora for this project and I am
anxiously waiting for my needles to arrive. (I didn't have the size among my
collection so I order an interchangeable set since I plan to make some of your
other hat projects.) Thanks for your generosity in sharing your designs -
Emily.
Reply
Replies

Hi Emily!
I'm glad I could be inspiring for you. :) And I think that colorway will
be amazing - let me know if you have any questions!
Reply
Anonymous August 25, 2017 at 12:27 AM

im making this now (from singapore)
Reply
Replies

Great, let me know if you have any questions! :)
Reply
Meghan September 14, 2017 at 9:57 AM

For gauge, should i get 4" with the size 5 or size 8 needle?
Thanks!
Reply
Replies
Gretchen Tracy September 14, 2017 at 10:57 AM

The larger one! :) Let me know if you have any other questions!!!
Reply
Tamar Karev November 15, 2017 at 5:03 AM

I am knitting this hat for my daughter in law. I could not find
Reply

Help, help please. Need help in converting pattern from malabrigo Rios yarn
(worsted) to malabrigo Rastita (DK). Head circumference is 20 3/4 inches.
Gauge 6 stitches = 1 inch using 6 US NEEDLES. How many stitches do I need
to cast on? How many stitches on each side of the pattern and how many in
between the markers. Reply ASAP greatly appreciated. . Thanks
Reply
Replies

Hi there!
Apologies, but gauge conversion takes quite a bit more time than
size conversion and there's no way I'll get to it before the weekend!
:) Let me know if you're still interested though and I'll let you know
when I have a converted pattern available.
Reply

Thanks for your prompt reply. Will await for the converted pattern. Thanks
again
Reply
Replies

Okay, you can find the pattern below! It's posted in multiple
comments for space requirements. :)

Needles: One set of straight needles in one size smaller than your
gauge needles, one set of straight needles in gauge, one 16" circular
needle in gauge, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also
in gauge
Gauge: 24 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette
So let's get started! For either version of this hat, we'll be working
from the brim of the piece, and we'll begin by working back and
forth rather than in the round. As such, using your smaller straight
needles, cast on 158 stitches loosely. Then work the following rows:
finished Edging Row 1. Then we'll knit one marker placement row, as
follows:
of row
Complete this marker placement row and switch to your straight

gauge needles. Then we'll proceed like so:
slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip
marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (150
stitches)
stitches)
(142 stitches)
stitches)
stitches)
k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip
marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (134
stitches)
k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until you
have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (132 stitches)
rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip
marker, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (130
stitches)
stitches)
Knit rows 1 - 24. At this point, our pattern diverges - first, I will give
instructions for how to proceed with this hat in the round. After that,
you'll find instructions for finishing it up on straight needles. So,
first, the in the round version:
Now that we've finished these 16 rows, you should be about to

begin a wrong side row. Instead of doing that, however, we're going
to join this bad boy in the round. With that in mind, transfer work to
your 16" gauge circular needle, place marker, and join in round. And
then we'll continue like so:
Row 1 and all odd rows: knit, slipping extra markers when you come
to them
Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 *
until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker,
round
Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt *
until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until
end of round
until end of round
Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt
* until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker,
round
Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4
* until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker,
until end of round
Knit rows 1 - 16, and then knit rows 1 - 9 again, removing extra
markers when you come to them. Now it's time to begin the
decrease portion of the hat, which goes as follows:
Row 1: knit
Rows 3 & 4: knit
You will probably want to switch to your dpns about now...
Row 6: knit
Row 8: knit
Row 10: * k8, k2tog (81 stitches)
Row 18: * k2tog * (9 stitches)
Knit rows 1 - 18, clip your yarn tail, and thread through final 9
stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. And now skip to
the verrrrrry end for the last bit of instructions. And while you in-
the-round knitters are doing that, I'll finish up with the straight
needle knitters.

So if you're working on straight needles, pick up here!
Last I left you, you had just finished knitting 24 rows in pattern with
decreases. You're going to be continuing in much the same fashion
at this point, except without the decreases. So let's proceed like so:
Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when
you come to them
Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 *
until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker,
round
Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt *
until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until
end of round
until end of round
Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt
* until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker,
round
Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4
* until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker,
until end of round
Knit rows 1 - 16 and then knit rows 1 - 9 again, removing extra

markers when you work it. Now it's time to begin the decrease
portion of the hat, which goes as follows:
Row 1 (right side): knit
Row 3: knit
Row 4: purl
Row 6: purl
Row 8: purl
Row 11: * k7, p2tog * (72 stitches)
Knit decrease rows 1 - 18, and then thread final 9 stitches to a scrap
of yarn to hold for later. Beginning from where you stopped doing
decreases in the original pattern (and where the in-the-round
knitters switched to the round), seam hat. When you reach the top,
pull seaming thread through final 8 stitches and pull tight. Thread to
inside of hat and knot.
And now, for both in-the-round and straight needle knitters, we'll
wrap up like so:
Make 2 roughly 6" yarn tassels and attach to bottom corners of hat.
Tuck in ends. Finally, if you completed this hat in the round, you
may want to knot together the two stitches where you joined this
hat in the round - although it should be fine structurally either way,
knotting them will prevent them from pulling apart when this hat is
worn. And let's face it - with a hat this cute, you're going to be
wearing it a LOT.
Reply
Kandy Fraley December 17, 2017 at 2:24 PM

I am wondering if you have converted this pattern so it fits an adult large?
This is the size I need and I don't know how to alter the pattern. Help please.
Thank you. Kandy
Reply
Replies

Hi Kandy!
I have, and it's lurking in the comments above. Let me know if you
have any other questions! :)
Reply
Unknown January 19, 2018 at 1:13 AM

Hi, nice pattern, thanks for it. We would like to make a KAL with it at
facebook. Is it ok for you that we translate it into german and publish it into
our facebook group? best regards, Yvonne (www.diekleinewollfabrik.de
Reply
Replies

Ja, natürlich! :) And send me the link or the finished result, please -
I'd love to improve my knitting German!
Reply
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Balls To The Walls Knits - Iris Bloom Bonnet

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1/19/2018 Balls to the Walls Knits: Iris Bloom Bonnet

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Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Iris Bloom Bonnet

Iris Bloom Bonnet

Needles: One set of straight

Edging Row 2: k2, * p2, k2 *

Rows 3 & 4: knit Blue Angel Headband

Row 7: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches)

Row 12: * k4, k2tog * (40 stitches) Wickerwork...

Row 6: purl Zürich collection (9)

Row 7: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches)

Row 9: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches)

Row 10: * p2tog, p6 * (56 stitches)

Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches)

Row 12: * p2tog, p4 * (40 stitches)

Row 14: * p2tog, p2 * (24 stitches) AFLAȚI MAI MULTE AM ÎNȚELES

Row 15: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches)

Row 16: * p2tog * (8 stitches)

Posted by Gretchen Tracy at 3:08:00 PM

Labels: hat, worsted

Gretchen Tracy February 26, 2015 at 6:00 AM

glory mhazo March 24, 2016 at 12:15 AM

Gretchen Tracy March 24, 2016 at 12:27 AM

Jane`s Daughter February 12, 2017 at 11:33 AM

Gretchen Tracy February 12, 2017 at 8:37 PM

Anonymous February 26, 2015 at 6:09 AM

Gretchen Tracy February 26, 2015 at 6:37 AM

TerriSue February 26, 2015 at 10:34 AM

Gretchen Tracy February 26, 2015 at 10:36 AM

Anonymous February 26, 2015 at 12:07 PM

Gretchen Tracy February 26, 2015 at 1:38 PM

Holly Tracy February 27, 2015 at 5:23 AM

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Gretchen Tracy February 28, 2015 at 5:22 PM

JudyRyman March 1, 2015 at 1:05 PM

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Brian Goldrick October 10, 2015 at 9:57 AM

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Brian Goldrick October 10, 2015 at 6:15 PM

Gretchen Tracy October 11, 2015 at 3:33 AM

Rachel October 6, 2015 at 10:20 AM

Gretchen Tracy October 6, 2015 at 11:56 AM

It sounds like you just missed a couple of the decreases. :) If you

Rachel October 7, 2015 at 8:25 AM

Gretchen Tracy October 7, 2015 at 10:14 AM

Rachel October 7, 2015 at 11:05 PM

Gretchen Tracy October 8, 2015 at 3:00 AM

Anonymous October 28, 2015 at 3:42 PM

Gretchen Tracy October 28, 2015 at 5:38 PM

Anonymous October 28, 2015 at 6:11 PM

Gretchen Tracy October 29, 2015 at 3:16 AM

Row 1:* k12, k2tog *

Then you should be able to pick up with the remainder of the

Row 1: * k14, k2tog *

As far as the other hat is concerned - I understand your frustration

Pernilla L August 25, 2017 at 4:12 AM

Gretchen Tracy August 25, 2017 at 6:52 AM

Pernilla L August 25, 2017 at 11:21 AM