Overhead Cabling 3-1

Section 3

Overhead Cabling

3.1 LOADING THE TRAILER

· Select the reels of cable to be used.

· If the outer wrap of cable is overlapped and tangled from being shipped flat, roll
the cable to the side and mark the reel to be returned to the supplier. Return the
complete reel, do not remove the damaged cable and use the remaining cable.

· Do not release the tension on the cable. The string or tape holding the cable tight
must always be on except when the cable is being installed.

· Load the reels on the trailer. The cable must pay off the top of the reels, toward
the trailer's tongue. See Drawing 3.1, Page 3-2.

· Align the center holes of the reels, and push the support bar through the first reel.

· Install a reel spacer on the support bar, and push the bar through the second reel.
(If you are using only one reel, omit this step).

· Install the disc and friction assembly of the reel brake on the support bar.

· Position the brake assembly securely against the sides of the reels.

· Tighten the seizure bolts.

· Lift the trailer tongue, and position it so thesupport bar fits into the trailer support
grooves.

· Secure the support bar fastening pins, (some models use clamps instead of pins.)

· Chock the tires.

Overhead Cabling 3-2
Overhead Cabling 3-3

3.1.1 ATTACHING THE TRAILER

If the reels are light, two people can usually pull the trailer tongue down and attach it to the
trailer hitch. If the reels are too heavy to permit that, use the following procedure:

· Connect a rope or chain between the trailer hitch and the trailer tongue.

· Position crew members on either side of the trailer tongue.

· With crew members stabilizing the tongue, slowly move the truck forward until
the tongue reaches the approximate height of the hitch.

· Place a block under the tongue, to keep it at about the same height as the hitch.

· Back up the truck to the trailer tongue. Remove the rope or chain, and attach the
trailer to the hitch.

3.2 TRANSPORTING THE TRAILER

Before transporting the trailer, adjust the reel brake pressure to prevent free movement of the
reels.

The cable must be wrapped tightly on the reel and secured to the reel before the trailer is moved.

NOTE: You must follow all local regulations for trailer towing. This always includes safety
chains. Depending on the size and weight of the trailer brake lights, turn signals and trailer
brakes may also be necessary.

3.3 SETTING UP THE TRAILER

When you arrive at the site, do the following:

· If you are setting up the trailer on private property, you must have the owner's
permission before you begin.

· Position the trailer 50 feet from the first pole, facing the pole.

NOTE: When the trailer can not be positioned 50 feet from the first pole due to a
street or obstacle a strand chute bracket must be used.

· Disconnect the trailer.

· Chock the trailer wheels, and place all required traffic safety devices. See
Overhead Cabling 3-4

Drawing 3.3.

3.4 INSTALLING THE CABLE

When installing coaxial cable, use the back pull method. Never use the drive off, method for
installing coaxial cable.

3.4.1 SET-UP
· Install a strand or pole bracket at the first pole.

· Attach a 45-degree cable block to the bracket. See Drawing 3.4.1 A & B, Page 3-
6.

· Install a cable puller on the strand. Drawing 3.4.1 C, Page 3-7.

· Place a (Chinese finger type) pulling grip on the end of each cable to be pulled.
Drawing 3.4.1 D, Page 3-9.

· Remember to keep tension on the cables at all times. Do not allow any cable to
freely spin back on the reel and loosen.

· Have a ground man support the cable until the cable puller (jig) has been pulled
away from the first pole and all slack in the cables has been taken up.

· Position the cables across the rollers of the cable block.

· Attach the pulling grips to the swivel eyes of the cable puller.

You are now ready to begin installing cable.

Overhead Cabling 3-5
Overhead Cabling 3-6
Overhead Cabling 3-7
Overhead Cabling 3-8
3.4.2 INSTALLING CABLE WITH A HAND LINE
· Attach a hand line to the cable puller.

· Using a block lifting tool, place cable blocks (rollers) on the strand at 30 to 50-
foot intervals. If you are installing more than one cable at a time, use multiple-
cable blocks and position each cable on the same roller of each cable block.
Drawings 3.4.2 A & B, Page 3-10.

· Tension the reel brakes so the reel does not run on when pulling is stopped.

CAUTION

Do Not overtighten the reel brakes! This can cause the cable to be whipped up into the power
lines when you start pulling again. If power line sag is out of specification (to low) and the
utility company will not correct the problem a hand brake on the reel may be needed to keep the
cables from contacting the power lines.

· Pull the cable about 30 feet past the first block location. Relax the tension on the
cable, and lift the. cable into the block rollers with the cable lifter. Repeat the
procedure at each cable block location.

· At each pole, disconnect the cable puller from the strand. Reconnect it on the
other side of the pole.

Never pull the cable with a vehicle!

· After the cable pulling is completed the slack must be rolled back onto the cable
reels while the lashing process is being done. The cable must not be allowed to
slacken.
3.4.3 INSTALLING CABLE WITH A WINCH
· Set up the winch at the end of the run, and adjust it.

· Place metal cable blocks (rollers) on the strand the entire length of the run. Install all 45-
and 90-degree corner blocks.

· String the winch cable along the cable run, placing the cable over the cable blocks.

· Station personnel along the run to direct the winch operator via two-way radio.

· Connect the winch line to the cable puller, and direct the winch operator to tension the
line.

· Adjust the cable reel brake so the pulling tension on the cable does not exceed the
manufacturer's recommendation.

· Have the cable pulled in span by span. As the cable reaches the winch line block,
remove the metal block and replace it with a cable block, single or multiple roller as
needed. Do this for every cable block on the run. Drawing 3.4.3

3.4.4 CORNER AND TANGENT PULLS

If you encounter turns from 10 to 45 degrees while pulling the cable, install a 45-degree cable
block on the pole or strand. For corners of 46 to 90 degrees, use a 90-degree corner block.
Drawings 3.4.4 A, B & C, Pages 3-13 and 3-14.

· Make sure that the axis of the rollers is perpendicular to the ground. This prevents the
cable from binding and from slipping between the rollers and the bracket. If you are
installing more than one cable at a time, use multiple-roller corner blocks.

· Do not pull the cable around more than one 46 to 90-degree corner, or more than two 10
to 45-degree corners. If you need to pull the cable around additional corners, the run
must be spliced. Each splice must have input and output expansion loops.
3.5 EXPANSION LOOPS
The primary reason for expansion loops is the coefficient of expansion of aluminum is double
the coefficient of expansion of steel. With aluminum expanding approximately double steel the
loop is the point that will absorb this longitudinal movement of the cables.

· Aluminum, being a soft metal, will not withstand much bending before the metal
crystallizes and breaks. The shape and size of the loop determines the number of life
cycles the loop can be subjected to before it breaks. It makes no difference if the cable is
bare or jacketed it will still break prematurely if bent incorrectly.

· A .750 bare aluminum sheath cable with a shield thickness of .035" that moves 1/8" 403
times will break at a hinge point of a sharp bend or short expansion loop. This would be
approximately one year from installation. A .500 cable will break sooner because of the
thinner shield thickness.

· A properly formed expansion loop should last in excess of 30 years or 10,950 cycles.
This is with .88"- flexure which is equal to 60 degree Fahrenheit change, 200 feet of
cable, with 2% or more strand sag.

3.5.1 EXPANSION LOOP SIZE

· Expansion loops for .750 and smaller cable will be 43' long with a 12" flat bottom. For .
875 and 1.000 cable the expansion loop will be 50" long with a 15" flat bottom.

· This measurement is taken from the beginning of the first bend to the opposite side at the
end of the last bend of the loop. Drawing 3.5.1, Page 3-16.

· The depth of the loop will be not more than 6" and not less than 5", regardless how many
cables are used. The depth measurement is derived by measuring from the bottom of the
cable before the loop to the bottom of the cable in the flat section of the loop. Drawing
3.5.1, Page 3-16.
3.5.2 FORMING EXPANSION LOOPS
All expansion loops must be formed with a Company approved bending board or Mechanical
Loop Forming Tool. Cables .625 and larger must always be formed with a mechanical loop
forming tool. You Must Never form or adjust a loop by hand. There are no exceptions!

· Expansion loops on .500 and smaller cable may be formed with a Mullen Bending Board,
model M-100 & M-200. This is only for bending one or two cables at a time. (See
Drawing 3.5.2 A, Page 3-18). Multiples of three or more .500 cables in a run must be
formed with a Lemco Mechanical Loop Forming Tool. (Lemco Model G120) (See
Drawing 3.5.2 B, Page 3-19).

· Expansion loops on .625 and .750 cable must be formed with the Lemco Model G120
Mechanical Loop Forming Tool. On .875 and 1.000 cable the Lemco Model G240
Mechanical loop Forming Tool must be used. (See Drawing 3.5.2 B, Page 3-19).

REMEMBER: The loop forming tool or forming board must remain in position until the
lasher has been transferred and the next span of cable has been lashed 50' or 1/3 the distance to
the next pole, which ever is greater. If a forming board is used the lineman must hold the cable
up into the board until the next span has been lashed the proper distance.

ANY FORMING TOOL OR BOARD THAT HAS BEEN DROPPED OR DAMAGE IN

ANY WAY MUST BE REPAIRED OR REPLACED BEFORE WORK CONTINUES!
3.6 EXPANSION LOOP AND HARDWARE PLACEMENT

An expansion loop must be installed at every pole for any size aluminum cable being used.

· All through cables must be included in all loops.

· All straps must be put on loosely by hand only and properly spaced 4" from the
end of any bend in the cable. The purpose of the strap is to support the cable
where there is no lashing wire or to hold multiple cables together in a loop. If the
strap is put on tightly the movement of the cable will be restricted during
expansion and contraction causing kinking at the strap. Also placing the strap and
spacer right at the bend of the loop will restrict the movement of the cable and
cause kinking.

· At the expansion loop the lashing wire must be wrapped around the strand only for
10 inches before the strap and spacer and then continue around the strand for 10 to
12 inches to the lashing wire clamp (Bug Nut) location. This makes 20 to 22
inches that the lashing wire will be wrapped around the strand only. Shown in all
Drawings.

3.6.1 STRAIGHT LINE PLACEMENT

All straight line poles must have the expansion loop at the pole except where there is an
obstruction on the pole. The center of the loop should be at the output side of the pole.

· Place the strap, spacer and lashing wire as described above. Make sure the strap
and spacer is always 4" back from any bend in the cable.

3.6.2 STRAIGHT LINE WITH AN OBSTRUCTION

All expansion loops will be placed on the output side of the pole. (See Drawings 3.6.2, Page 3-
24. )

· When the loop is on the output side of the pole in a straight line run, the lashing
wire clamp (bug nut) must be 6 inches out from the end of the triple clamp.

· Two straps and spacers will be used one at the triple clamp and one 6 inches out
from the lashing wire clamp. The lashing wire must be wrapped around the strand
only for 10 inches before the strap and then continue to the bug nut.
· On the output (loop) side of the pole another strap and spacer will be 6 inches
from the triple clamp with cable guard between it and the strap at the other side of
the triple clamp. This strap and spacer must also be 6 inches from the beginning
of the loop.
 · On the output side of the expansion loop the hardware placement will be normal
with the strap and spacer 6 inches from the last bend in the loop. The lashing wire
around the stand only 10 inches before the strap and spacer and then another 10 to
12 inches to the bug nut. See Drawing 3.6.2, Page 3-24.

3.6.3 ACTIVE LOCATIONS

All active locations will have a full input loop before the amplifier or line extender and an output
loop that must be on the opposite side of the pole from the active device. See Drawing 3.6.3,
Page 3-25.

· The input will have the 10 inches of lashing wire around the strand only before the
strap, with the strap and spacer 6 inches from the first bend of the loop.

· The loop must then go back up to the strand with a strap and spacer 6 linches from
the last bend of the loop. The cable will then be straight for 4 inches before it is
bent to go down to the input, with a 6 inch straight section between last bend and
the input connector of the line extender or trunk amplifier.
 · There must then be a 6 inch straight section from the output connector of the
active to the first bend back up to the strand. A strap and spacer is then placed 6
inches from the last bend in the cable and 6 inches from the triple clamp.

· The cable then passes under the triple clamp with another strap and spacer 6 inches
from the triple clamp and 6 inches before the first bend in the output loop.

· On the output side of this loop all hardware is placed normally with the lashing
wire wrapped around the strand only 10 inches before the strap. The strap and
spacer is 6 inches from the last bend in the loop and the bug nut 10 to 12 inches
into the loop from the strap. See Drawing 3.6.3.

3.6.4 TURNS OR CORNERS

Input and output expansion loops are a must at all turns and corners of 10 to 90 degrees. Place
all hardware as shown in Drawings 3.6.4Athru E, Pages 3-32 to 3-36.

3.6.5 CABLE HEIGHT CHANGE AT THE POLE

Any time the cable changes height at the pole or the strand is double dead ended there must be
both input and output loops. Such as false dead ends, strand crossover at the pole, etc.

3.6.6 SPLICES
All locations where the cables are spliced during construction must have input and output
expansion loops.

The splice must be on the output side of the pole with all hardware placed as shown in Drawing
3.6.6, Page 3-32.

Note: Splices are not permitted in any straight cable run. They must be used only where
required because of multiple turns or corners.

3.6.7 DIRECTIONAL COUPLERS

All directional couplers (DC's) must be on the input side of the pole with input and output
expansion loops.
3.7 LASHING CABLE
It is very important to use the correct lasher for the size cable bundle you are lashing. If a lasher
is used on a cable bundle that is slightly over the lasher's capability it will put periodic dents in
the cable.

Below is a chart of lashers and the cable bundle sizes they will accommodate:

Maximum Cable
Lasher Bundle Size
C 1-5/8 in.
D 3 in.
H 1-1/2 in.
J 3-1/4 in.
S 1 in.

· You should handle a lasher with care avoiding rough handling and abuse.

· Raise and lower lashers with a hand line attached to the handle only

· You should avoid setting a lasher on the ground to protect it from dirt and foreign
material.

3.7.1 LASHER SET-UP

Install the lashing wire and set up the lasher per the instruction for the type lasher you are using.

· All trunk runs, and feeder runs of three or more cable must be double lashed using
two lashing wire bundles installed in the lasher, not by running the lasher over
each span twice.

· Install the cable positioner and pushers if lashing more than one cable. See
Drawing 3.7.1 A, Page 3.4.1A.

· Attach a hand line to the handle of the lasher and raise it to the strand.

· With the rollers, lifters and gates open set the lasher on the strand and lock the
strand tensioning roller. Lift the cable and adjust the rear cable lifter so the cable
is within a 1/4" of the strand. Now adjust the vertical cable rollers to almost
contact the cables. Do not make this adjustment to tight on the cables because it
can dent the cable if overly tight.
· Install a lashing wire clamp (bug nut) on the strand as described in Section 3.6 and
pull out enough lashing wire for termination. Page 3-40.

· Wrap the lashing wire around the strand seven times following the spiral of the
 strand wires. This will be approximately 20" the lashing wire is wrapped around
the strand only. Now wrap the wire half way around the bolt between the washers
of the lashing wire clamp being very careful they do not overlap and tighten the
nut. The lashing wire must be cut off and the end put up through the middle of the
clamp. See Drawing 3.7.1 C, Page 3-41B

· Attach the lasher bridle to the lasher and the tow rope should be attached to the
bridle's floating ring by a snap hook or bowline knot.

3.7.2 LASHING
· Make sure there is adequate cable tails and the ground men can start pulling the
lasher while the cable ends are held. The lasher must be pulled from the ground
with downward pressure to keep it spinning. The lasher must not be pulled with a
vehicle.

· As the cable is being lashed the slack in the cable must be rolled back onto the
cable reel.

· All ends of the cables must be capped and the tail taped or strapped up to the
strand.

· Lash the cable to the next pole, remove the cable blocks and transfer the pushers
and cable positioner.

· Before you begin transferring the lasher or release the lasher brake, clamp the
lashing wire to the strand. Do not over tighten the temporary wire clamp because
this will smash the lashing wire and weaken it. Light pressure is all that is needed
to hold the lashing wire.

· Pull out enough lashing wire for terminating.

· Attach the lasher bridle for transfer by clipping one end of the bridle to the strand
on the opposite side of the three bolt clamp. The lasher bridle is put around the
strand during the transfer so if it is dropped during the transfer it won't drop to the
ground but will be held by the bridle and strand.