Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Section 2
Pole Framing, Stranding and Bonding
2.1 HARDWARE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS
· All through bolts, eye bolts and other pole hardware must be galvanized 5/8"
construction for 1/4" strand.
· All plants will be constructed with 1/4" strand. This is subject to variations due to plant
design such as super trunk, extra long spans, etc.
· At no time may there be more than two inches, or less than two full threads, of the
through bolt extending beyond the outside of the square nut after the strand clamp has
been securely fastened.
· The lip of the suspension clamps must always be below the through bolt and facing the
pole.
· Curved suspension clamps must he used for tangent pulls and angles of ten through
twenty degrees. For angles under ten degrees use a straight suspension clamp. For
angles over twenty degrees dead-end construction techniques must be used.
· Always place suspension clamps on the threaded end of a through bolt. Dead-end
construction attachments may be attached to the unthreaded end of a through bolt.
· All manufacturer's application and safety procedures must be followed for all equipment
being installed.
The following is some but not all of the notes included in the PREFORMED LINE PRODUCTS
APPLICATION PROCEDURE that is included in each box of their product. We have included
these notes because the Preform Line Products tend to be abused and misused. Everyone must
read and follow the application procedure.
Pole Framing, Stranding and Bonding 2-42
· Preformed Line Products are precision devices. To insure a tight assembly, they should
be handled carefully. To prevent distortion and damage, they should be installed as
illustrated in their application procedure.
· They should be stored in cartons under cover preferably shelf storage-until used.
Note: Preformed Line Products have a coating that is critical to their holding strength. They
should NEVER be hung from a ladder rack or side of a truck, carried in the bed of a truck where
other equipment can be placed on them and they can be stepped on, or handled in any way that
can damage this coating.
· They may be removed and reapplied three times, if necessary, on new construction, for
the purpose of retensioning guys.
· They should be used only on the size strand for which they were designed.
· Guy-Grips and False dead-end grips should be applied only to smooth-contoured pole
line hardware which has ample radius. (Drive hooks, eye bolts, oval eye nuts and some
down guy straps do not have ample radius.) Use Thimble Eye bolts, nuts and eyes.
· Guy-Grips should be used on hardware that is held in a fixed position; the fitting should
not be allowed to rotate or spin.
· Lay direction of both the Preformed Line Products and the strand should be the same.
Most strand is left-hand lay. NOTE: Normal lay for the grips is left-hand lay.
· Guy-Grip dead-ends SHOULD NOT be used as false dead-ends. Use Preformed False
Dead-Ends.
· They SHOULD NOT be used as tools; that is, come alongs, pulling-in, etc.
· Exercise care while pulling strand to prevent damage to utility company equipment and
public property.
· Maintain all clearances across streets, alleys, driveways, etc. while installing strand.
Pole Framing, Stranding and Bonding 2-42
· Never pull strand with a vehicle! If the pole line can be driven safely, use the drive-off
method discussed in section 2.3.
· Use false dead end strand attachments, accompanied with guying, whenever necessary.
This technique is required when it is impossible to place a terminal anchor on the final
pole. It is also required when significant differences in pulling tensions are needed to
maintain proper clearances and prevent raking of unguyed poles.
· Where slight differences of pulling tension are required between pole spans, tighten the
suspension clamps after the strand is sagged properly.
· Tighten all suspension clamps after installing and tensioning the strand.
· All strand splices must be of the Preformed or Reliable Strandvise variety. Place splices
no more than eighteen inches from the end of the threebolt clamp at the pole.
· Always use an approved traveling ground when installing strand. THERE ARE NO
EXCEPTIONS!
When you use the drive-off method to install strand, dead-end the strand at the first pole and
then tie it to the bottom of the second pole. Drive off slowly down the pole line stopping every
quarter-mile. Raise all the strand to that point before proceeding.
Note that some special handling is required at power crossings and road crossings.
· All anchors and guys must be placed before you start installing the strand.
Pole Framing, Stranding and Bonding 2-42
Pole Framing, Stranding and Bonding 2-42
· Load the strand on the trailer so that the strand pulls from the top of the reel when you
drive-off.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
· Dead-end and ground the strand at the first pole.
· Drive the truck slowly along the pole line laying the strand on the ground. BE
CAREFUL: Use a smooth, slow movement, and keep even brake tension on the reel.
Otherwise, you might whip the strand and tangle it on the reel and into other objects.
DON'T LET THE STRAND ENTANGLE PASSING VEHICLES. Use traffic control
procedures and flagmen as required.
· Special procedures are required for hills, turns, road crossings, and power crossings. See
Below.
· Stop the truck every quarter-mile. Lift the strand with a hand line and place it into the
suspension clamps. Tighten the clamps so they hold the strand without binding.
· Pull the strand to about one-half the stringing tension and snub it at a suitably guyed
pole. BE CAREFUL: Watch the entire line for snags and obstructions.
When a run is completed to a guyed pole fully tension the strand taking measurements as
needed.
· Stop the truck. Raise all the strand and pull it to about half the stringing tension and
snub it.
Pole Framing, Stranding and Bonding 2-42
Pole Framing, Stranding and Bonding 2-42
· Stop traffic. Lay out the strand across the road past the first pole on the other side.
· Tie the strand to the bottom of the pole immediately preceding the power crossing.
· Lay out the strand past the first pole on the other side of the power crossing.
· Tie a rope at the middle of the span. Have a ground man hold the rope to keep the strand
from hitting the power lines. Raise the strand and pull it to half tension.
· All anchors and guys must be in place before installing the strand.
· Load the strand on the trailer so the strand pulls from the top of the reel over the front of
Pole Framing, Stranding and Bonding 2-42
· All clearances including local codes in the area you are working, must be met as stated in
Section Four.
· When the strand is placed up on the pole while being run, place it in the groove of the
suspension clamp, on the bolt behind the suspension clamp, or on drive hooks at about
the same height on the pole as the strand will be.
Pole Framing, Stranding and Bonding 2-42
· Strand brakes must be placed at the poles on both sides of all street, railroad, and power
crossing.
· When the strand is placed in the groove of the suspension clamp tighten the clamp nut by
hand to keep the strand from falling out but not so tight the strand binds and doesn't
move freely though the clamp.
· If placing the strand on the nut behind the suspension clamp, turn the suspension clamp
vertically and tighten the clamp down. (Drawing 2.4.2B, Page 2-11) At every sixth pole
in straight sections, every pole that there is a pull away from the pole, upgrade or
downgrade, and at all street crossings, place the strand in the groove of the suspension
clamp as described in the last paragraph.
· When using drive hooks to run the strand, drive the hooks into the pole so only enough
room remains between the pole and hook to fit the strand in the hook. Use suspension
clamps every sixth pole, corner, street, etc. as described earlier in this section.
· When pulling the strand be careful not to jerk the strand. This can easily whip the strand
up into the power lines.
· Where trees interfere with strand installation and cannot be trimmed, put a rope through
or over the tree at the appropriate height and pull the strand through with the rope.
· If you encounter large tree limbs at the needed height of the strand that cannot be
removed put the strand under the limb. When the strand is tensioned it will lift the limb,
but when the cable is added it's weight should sag the strand below the height of the
limb.
· If a tree limb is not trimmed, cable guard will have to be installed at all locations of
possible contact with the cable when it is installed.
Situations can be unique: Use diplomacy and common sense to complete the installation.
2.5 BENDING AND CUTTING
STRAND
· Do not make small radius bends in the strand at areas marked by bands of paint. These
painted areas signify that splices of the individual wires of the strand were made at the
factory.
· Secure both sides of the strand before cutting it, to prevent it from flipping into
something or someone. Bind both sides of the strand with tape or wire to prevent the
strand from spreading and unraveling.
· Cut the strand as far as possible from any temporary attachments holding it. At points
where the strand can be used for bonding leave enough for this purpose.
· Pull the strand until it is tighter than the desired tension. Then back it off to the desired
tension. The extra tension should not be more than 500 pounds above the desired
tension.
NOTE: Strand tension may be governed by existing utility sag. Proper clearances must be
maintained when the weight of the cable is added.
NOTE: All clearances must be maintained as shown in Section Four and per the local codes in
the area where you are working.
· Drawing 2.7.4 B shows the through strand on the same side of the pole as the branch
strand termination. A thimble eye nut is used instead of the. guy hook and a thimble eye
angle bolt is used instead of a guy strap. Bonding is done by using the strand ends and
K-2 clamps. Page 2-20.
· Drawing 2.7.4 C shows the through strand on the opposite side of the pole from the
branch strand using a thimble eye bolt. Bonding is done by using the strand tails and K-2
clamps. You will notice that the threaded end of the through bolt is always on the
suspension clamp side. Page 2-22.
NOTE: Any time a down guy strap attachment is used with a Preformed dead-end the strap
must be the proper size. If the Preform dead-end does not fit completely into the guy strap and
only contacts the side of the dead-end, DO NOT USE THE GUY STRAP! An improper fit will
cause fatigue and failure of the Preform dead-end.
2.7.5 STRAND DEAD-END
A strand dead-end is any point in a CATV plant where the strand terminates or stops. This is the
point that the strand is pulled to the desired tension for the cable(s) that will be lashed to it later.
This is also the point that will have one or more of the guys and anchors described in Section 7.
There are two ways to attach the strand to the thimble eye bolt or nut at the termination point.
· When using the Preform dead-end, attach the deadend to a thimble eye bolt (#76) or
thimble eye nut, whichever is applicable. The thimble eye bolt or nut gives a large,
smooth, round surface and will not weaken the supporting bail.
· When using the strandvise dead-end, a thimble eye, or oval eye bolt or nut may be used.
The thimble eye, configuration is the best.
· At this termination point, pass the strand through the attachment device, leaving a tail.
The tail can then bypass the pole and be bonded to the down guy about 6' beyond the
dead end or a tail from the dead-end and the down guy can be bonded at the pole. Use a
K2 bonding clamp. See Drawing 2.7.5 A & B, Page 2-24.
· Also at this point, ground the strand to an existing ground. Use a KI bonding clamp on
the strand and a split bolt on the existing ground.
· If no ground exists one must be installed. Use #6 soft drawn copper wire and a Kl
bonding clamp on the strand in front of any attachment device. (Be sure to attach to
strand only and not to any dead end device.) A 5/8" X 61 ground rod and a 5/8" ground
rod clamp should be used. Any time a ground is installed, it must be bonded to the
telephone strand.
· The use of ground wire molding is optional except at power supply locations and as
dictated by local codes.
2.7.6 FALSE DEAD-END
A false dead-end is used in two situations.
· The first is when the strand must continue on, one or two poles to the end of the pole line
and the last pole in line cannot be down guyed. These one or two spans must be slack to
eliminate as much side pull on the pole as possible.
· The second case occurs in a long strand run. In this case the strand has one or more false
dead ends. This depends on the number of cables, the length of the run and is to
maintain the proper tension on the support strand. Drawing 2.7.6 A & B, Page 2-26.
· The support strand can run a minimum of 4 inches above or below the false dead-end
strand. Or the strand can run horizontally on a support bracket such as the IA2 arm or
equivalent. The tie-in point of the false dead-end strand to the support strand should be
not less than 10' from the pole and not more than 15'. Use the same material at the pole
as that for a normal down guy. (See section 7 Anchors and Guying). Use two three-bolt
guy clamps and a serving sleeve on the extension arm false dead-end. Drawing 2.7.6 C,
Page 2-28. (This type false dead-end is very rarely used.)
· A side guy must be installed whenever the MIF double dead-end corner attachment is
used to eliminate any side pull on the pole. This down guy must be placed correctly or it
will be useless.
· Also shown is a double framed double dead-end using two through bolts, thimbleye nuts
and down guy straps with corner guys. Remember the two through bolts must be
separated vertically a minimum of 4", Page 2-30.
2.7.9 EXTENSION ARMS (CROSSARMS)
The primary use of an extension arm is to maintain clearances in places where it might otherwise
require a pole change out. A crossarm can also be used, in spots where a pole is slightly out of
line, to maintain a straight line in the strand.
There is a special bracket at the end of the rod that will accepts a 3-bolt suspension clamp. A
through bolt must always support the top hole of the bracket at the pole with a 1/21 X 4" lag bolt
to stabilize the bottom hole of the bracket. Drawing 2.7.9.1, Page 2-32.
To install the L bracket, the nut from the existing thru bolt is removed, the L bracket is
placed on the bolt and the nut is replaced and tightened. If the thru bolt is not long
enough it must be replaced. Next a 5/8" X 2 1/2' suspension clamp bolt is placed through
the hole provided in the bracket and then a "D" reinforcing strap, suspension clamp and
nut is placed on the bolt and tightened. The reinforcing strap must then be attached to
the pole using a 1/2 X 4 1/2" drive screw. See Drawing 2.7.9.2 A, Page 2-33.
· The CATV 9" Extension Bolt is used when there is a street, alley or any situation where
ground clearance is critical. See Drawing 2.7.9.2 B, Page 2-34.
To install the 9" Extension Bolt the square nut must be removed from the existing thru
bolt and replaced with the 9" Extension Bolt. Then a "C" reinforcing strap, suspension
clamp and square nut is placed on the threaded end of the extension bolt. the reinforcing
strap must then be attached to the pole with a 1/2" X 4 1/2' drive screw.
· The " T - Alley Bracket" is used where a branch strand attachment must be made, a
phone branch strand termination exists and enough clearance also exists.
To install the " T-Alley Bracket" a hole for a new thru bolt must be drilled 8 inches below the
existing phone thru bolt. The bottom hole of the T-Alley bracket is placed on the new thru bolt
and a square nut is placed on the thru bolt and tightened. A 1/2" X 4 1/2" drive screw is then
screwed into the top hole.
A 5/8" X 2 1/201 suspension clamp bolt is placed through the oval hole provided in the bracket,
a suspension clamp is placed on the bolt and is tightened with an thimble eye nut. The
completed attachment should look like 2.7.9.2 C and is now ready to accept the branch
suspension strand.
If there is a terminal leg (phone riser) where the T-Alley bracket is to be placed, the terminal leg
(riser) must be moved to the side of the pole and reattached.
· Drawing 2.7.9.3 A shows a standard weight metal extension bracket not normally used
by Cable Companies. We use the epoxirod because it is nonconductive and more
versatile.
· Drawing 2.7.9.3 B shows a typical metal telephone extension bracket. This bracket can
support as much weight as the others but further from the pole. This bracket is also
seldom used by Cable companies because the extra weight capacity is rarely needed.
· The grounding standard is that the first (1) and each tenth (10) pole in any given line is to
be grounded. If there are only 8 to 13 poles in a line, use the first and last pole.
· All amplifier stations and line extender (active) locations must be grounded. Use
existing power or telephone grounds if they already exist. If no other ground exists
install a ground rod and wire. Each power supply must have its own ground rod and
wire.
· Note that, as shown in the Drawing 2.8.1 B, the ground rod must be 5/8" x 8'. It must be
located 12 inches from the pole and the top of the rod must be 4 to 6 inches below the
surface. Page 2-41.
· The ground wire must be #6 bare soft-drawn copper wire stapled to the pole to ground
level. It must be run 4 to 6" below the surface of the soil and connect to the ground rod
with a 5/8" ground rod clamp.
· The ground wire must also be connected to the strand with a K-1 bonding clamp to
prevent electrolysis. Bonding clamps must be connected to the strand and never to the
preform splice or dead-end. The coating on these devices reduces the electrical contact
and can actually prevent any electrical contact.
· Use #6 soft-drawn copper ground wire and K-1 weaver bonding clamps, or one K-1
clamp and a split bolt to an existing vertical ground.
· All double dead-ends, guys, pole crossover, etc. must be bonded using a strand tail and a
K-2 weaver bonding clamp, or #6 bare soft drawn copper wire and two K-1 weaver
bonding clamps.
· If using no. 6 copper wire for bonding, a K-1 clamp must be used to prevent
ELECTROLYSIS from occurring. Electrolysis is a chemical reaction that takes place
due to the different chemical properties of dissimilar metals involved and any minor
electrical current. The effect is a fine film of powder between each metal object that was
in contact with each other. This breaks the ground that was at this point.
· The Weaver K-1 bonding clamp is made of bronze and plated on each side for the type
metal it will be used with. One side for copper and the other side of the same clamp for
steel. The K-1 clamp must be placed properly for this reason. See Drawing 2.8.2A,
Page 2-43.
· The Weaver K-2 clamp is made to contact steel on both sides. This is for bonding a
strand tail to another strand. As you can see it is very important that you use the proper
clamp. See Drawing 2.8.2 B.
· The strand must be bonded at all grounding location whether the ground is power,
telephone or CATV.
· When installing the K type clamp the grounding wire must not extend beyond the end
of the clamp. This must be done because when the ground wire is cut it is sharp and
will cut anyone contacting it.