6th International Conference of Textile Research Division

NRC, Cairo, Egypt, April 5 – 7, 2009

Textile Processing: State of the Art & Future Developments

6 (TC) (2009) 302 – 308
Thermo-Physiological Comfort of Printed CoolMax Fabrics
B. G. Gabr1, A. A. Salem 2 and Y. E. Hassan1
1
Apparel Design & Technology Department, Faculty of Applied Arts Helwan University, Cairo, Egypt
2
Textile Printing, Dyeing & Finishing Department, Faculty of Applied Arts Helwan University, Cairo, Egypt

Abstract

C oolMax is a new generation textile fibre developed to meet today's consumer needs through its unique
combination of aesthetics, soft touch, comfort and performance. In this research, a CoolMax knitted
material has been printed by four different printing pastes; Synthetic, Emulsion, Semi-emulsion and
Basic. The purpose of this paper is to detect the influence of printing paste type on thermo-physiological comfort
properties of CoolMax knitted material. A number of tests were undertaken into the atmosphere of 20ºC±2ºC and
RH of 65%±2%. Longitudinal wicking and horizontal wetting were tested for all printed samples as well as a
plain CoolMax knitted material. Air permeability and heat-loss were examined for all samples the colour
fastness properties also were studied. Conclusion was drawn that Basic followed by Semi-Emulsion are
providing the optimum thermo-physiological comfort properties, of heat loss and moisture transfer, when applied
on knitted CoolMax. Additionally, influences of printing paste type, on CoolMax before and after printing, were
examined under electronic microscope.
Keywords: Coolmax; Thermo-Physiological Comfort Properties; Printing Paste; Pigment; Basic Dye; Emulsion;
and Wettability.

1. Introduction 1.2. Thermo-physiological comfort

1.1. Printing Process Thermo-physiological comfort illustrates the

Printing process of textile materials is the
application of colour according to predetermined
design. Printing paste which is applied to textile
material consists of dye, water, thickener and the
required chemicals. After the printing process, the
printed colour is fixed onto the fabric by heat
treatment alone or with steam as the case may be.
This is followed by soaping where the thickener is
washed away, leaving the selective dye portion.
Thickener is present to prevent capillary action
from causing the dye to run; the success of printing
textile materials depends mainly on type and
quality of the thickener. Generally, factors affecting
behaviour and selection of a thickener are; firstly,
the chemical and physical nature of the textile
material used, secondly, the chemical nature of the
dye used. In this research, the main purpose is to
investigate the influence of printing paste type, on
the thermo-physiological comfort properties of the
CoolMax knitted material, and thus leading to the
successful selection of suitable printing paste
intended for CoolMax.
role of a textile material into regulating body
temperature and perspiration levels during wear.
The human body tries to maintain a constant core
temperature of about 37°C, the actual value varies
slightly from person to another but the temperature
of any one person is maintained within narrow
limits (Saville 2000). Heat loss is determined
through one of four mechanisms conduction;
convection, radiation and evaporation. During
physical activity, the human body provides cooling,
partly, by producing insensible perspiration. If the
water vapour cannot escape to the surrounding
atmosphere, the relative humidity of the
microclimate inside the clothing increases, causing
a corresponding increased thermal conductivity of
the insulating air, and the clothing becomes
uncomfortable (Holmes 2000). Sensorial
perspiration is when moisture or in-sensorial
perspiration is accumulated and transformed into
water droplets so called sweat. Air permeability of
fabrics is of great significance to thermo-
physiological comfort. Depending on the air flow
rate through the fabric under a given pressure drop,
textile fabrics get their specific character in terms of

*Corresponding author: B. G. Gabr

Address: Apparel Design & Technology Department, Faculty of Applied Arts Helwan University, Cairo, Egypt
E-mail address: bahiragabr@yahoo.com
TRD, 6–031–535–2009-TC–Textile Research Division, National Research Centre. All Rights Reserved
E-mail address: conf@trd-egypt.org
Copyright_AGAHassabo© TRD, NRC, All Rights Reserved.
 B. G. Gabr et al / 6th Inter. Conf. of Text. Res. Div. 6 (TC) (2009) 302 – 308

thermal properties, or more globally in terms of 2. Experimental

comfort. Comfort of the textiles is a complex
property affecting intensively the performance of CoolMax was printed using four different
the final product. In parallel, the air permeability pastes. Emulsion, semi-emulsion and synthetic and
has a significant influence on the drying behaviour basic pastes were all used with pigments as
of fabrics (Cay and Tarakcioglu 2007). A colourant. Also, CoolMax was printed using Basic
representing clothing material, through all these printing paste details of printing pastes, mesh and
factors, helps regulating thermal levels leaving the steaming methods are mentioned below:
human body in its optimum condition while
engaged into the various physical activities. Table I: Component of different pigment pastes
Thickener Semi
Emulsion Synthetic
Additives emulsion
1.3. CoolMax
White spirit 700 350 -
CoolMax is a high tech material specifically
and uniquely engineered to keep users dry and Water 127.5 470 237.4
comfortable. CoolMax material is made from
Emulsifier 10 5 -
specially engineered Dacron® polyester fibre
(cationic dyeable polyester) that is not hygroscopic; Thickener - 12.5 600
material that does not have the tendency to absorb
moisture, and has 20% higher surface area than Binder 100 100 100
traditional round fibre s illustrated in Figure 1 Di-
(Swantko 1999). 12.5 12.5 12.5
ammonium
Phosphate 4 - -
Pigment 50 50 50
1000 gm 1000 gm 1000 gm

The printed samples, utilising the three mentioned

printing pastes, were fixed with thermo fixation at 150 ºC
for 5 min., then samples were washed at 60ºC for 15min.
with 2g/L non-ionic detergent.
Figure 1: Cross section of CoolMax.

Figure 2 illustrate the special four-channel Table 2: Component of basic printing paste
fibre forms a transport system, which pulls moisture
away from the skin to the outer layer of the fabric,
10 gm basic dye
air moves in through the fabric producing a cooling
drying effect, then it dries that moisture faster than
any other material and by turn thermo-regulate the 15 gm lactic acid PH 5-6
body (Swantko 1999). Clothing items made of
CoolMax material are ideal because they require 5-15 gm Benzyl alcohol
minimal care. In addition to drying fast, CoolMax
fabrics are also wrinkle –and shrink–resistant,
machine washable and dryable, which stays soft 15-30 gm levelling agent
and non-chafing while retaining its shape and good
look (Dupont 1999). 600 gm thickener (mebro gum)

1000 gm
Printed samples, using Basic printing paste, were fixed by
steaming at 130ºC for 25min, then samples were washed
at 60ºC for 15min. with 2 g/l non-ionic detergent.

A total of five fabrics; four of which are

Figure 2: The CoolMax Comfort system.
Source: Dupont 1996
printed and the base fabric is a one type of
CoolMax weft-knitted fabric, plain Single-Jersey
structure, of density 14 Wales and 22 Course. All
have been tested for Wettability using BS(4554),
Figure 4 Wicking (cm), depending on theory of
capillary rise, for a period of 10minutes in both
Wales and Course directions separately was

Textile Processing: State of the Art & Future Developments 303

obtained and average calculated using BS(3424)
with a sample of 20cm length and 5cm width, in
each direction (Saville 2004) Figure 3. Air
permeability using Air Permeability Tester FX3300
instrument of BS (5636) an average of five readings
was considered. Heat loss has been examined for all
tested fabrics, a glass beaker of 600 ml warm water
at 40º C was covered with the tested fabric, each
sample was tightly fitted on top of the testing
beaker, thermometer was dipped into the water
passing through the tested fabric, stopwatch was
used to calculate the drop into temperature from
40ºC per minute for 150 minutes time Figure 5.
Printed samples have been coated with gold in
vacuum coating unit, these were viewed under a
scanning electronic microscope (JEM 100S).
Control fabric sample, not printed CoolMax, was
also examined for comparison. Tests took place at
Temperature of 20ºC ±2ºC and RH of 65% ±2%.
Figure 3: Wicking Test
Figure 4 Wettability Test
Figure 5: Heat Loss - Temperature Gradient Test
Method.
304 6th International Conference of Textile Research Division, NRC, Cairo, Egypt, April 5 –7, 2009
3. Results and Discussion
3.1. Physical Properties
3.1.1. Effect of Printing Paste on Thickness of
Coolmax
Thickness of CoolMax has been affected when
printed using different printing pastes, illustrated in
Figure 5. Thickness was highest when CoolMax is
printed using Synthetic printing paste, this might
affect thermo-physiological properties of
CoolMax., This was followed by Semi-emulsion
printing paste. Both Basic and Emulsion printing
pastes gave a less increase in thickness when
compared to the above mentioned two printing
pastes. This result is due to the rheological effect
and the amount of solid content of different
thickeners under investigation in this research.
Synthetic thickener paste has a binder which makes
a cohesive layer of polymer in thermofixation
process, this layer is difficult to remove in washing
process causing higher thickness for CoolMax; this
appears obviously in photomicrograph Figure 6.
Figure 6: Photomicrograph of CoolMax fabric
printing with Synthtic.
Emulsion thickener is one of the most suitable
systems for pigment printing, which pursue
Pseudoplastic flow:
Pseudoplastic flow is usually found in
heterogeneous and physically speaking, coarsely
dispersed systems. Flow occurs under shear, but
when shear is removed the pastes return to the
consistency of a solid on the surface of the textile
material (Leslie 1994). Since printing pastes cannot
penetrate deep down into the textile because of their
rheology, they therefore remain on the fabric
surface; producing much better colour value, a
sharp mark and brilliance of colour.
An emulsion thickener and synthetic can be
used together to give pastes containing perhaps
25% white spirit producing a semi-emulsion
system, the printer knows from experience that
"short" pastes are more sensitive to crushing effects
than are long pastes. While synthetic polymer
thickening agents were developed for pigment
printing, with rheology similar to that of emulsion
 B. G. Gabr et al / 6th Inter. Conf. of Text. Res. Div. 6 (TC) (2009) 302 – 308

thickeners and extremely low solid content, so a

small amount of thickener will be on the surface of
the fabric and it could be removed in washing
process. Resultant data shown in Figure 12
indicates that semi-emulsion gives higher thickness
with CoolMax than emulsion paste;
photomicrographs Figures 7 & 8 provide evidence
of this result. On the other hand in basic printing
paste, in this research, mepro gum which is a
natural thickener was used; where it swells in water
being easily removed from the fabric during
washing operation after printing and this explain Figure 10:.Photomicrograph of CoolMax fabric.
the least increase in thickness among the other two
printing pastes, shown in Figures 10, 11 illustrates
photograph of CoolMax fabric.

Figure 11: Photomicrograph of CoolMax fabric in

cross section.

Figure 7: Photomicrograph of CoolMax fabric

printing with Semi-emulsion.

Figure 12: Influence of Printing Paste on Thickness of

CoolMax.
Figure 8: Photomicrograph of CoolMax fabric
printing with Emulsion.

3.1.2 Effect of Printing Paste on Weight of

Figure 9: Photomicrograph of CoolMax fabric
printing with Basic.
CoolMax
Weight of CoolMax was slightly affected
when printing pastes were applied, both Synthetic
and Semi-emulsion printing pastes added weight to
the CoolMax, Figure 13. Followed by a fewer
increase into weight of printed CoolMax with
Emulsion printing paste, and the least increase in
weight for Basic printing paste. This was similar to
the resultant data from thickness physical property,
which by turn should affect thermo-physiological
comfort properties of printed CoolMax.

Textile Processing: State of the Art & Future Developments 305


Figure 13 Influence of Printing Paste on Weight of
CoolMax.
3.2. Thermo-physiological properties
3.2.1. Effect of Printing Paste on Heat Loss
(Temperature Gradient Method)
Resultant data from this test method was
observed to be close by, nevertheless, Basic
printing paste illustrates quick heat loss giving
almost the same values of heat loss after 100mins
up till the end of the test at 150mins of 23.8ºC. On
the other hand, both Synthetic and Semi-Emulsion
printing pastes showed the same level of heat loss,
after 150mins duration of test temperature reached
25.8ºC. Emulsion based printing paste achieved an
in-between value compared to the other four tested
samples, including none printed sample, of 25ºC by
the end of the 150mins test duration, this is shown
in Figure 14.
Conclusion was drawn that heat loss, at a
relatively long period of time of 150mins, of knitted
CoolMax was fast for Basic printing paste, giving
the prospective of cooling down and a more
comfortable effect during engagement in warming
up sports, followed by Emulsion printing paste then
both Semi-emulsion and Synthetic printing pastes.
This may be a result of the no gained weight by the
Basic paste printed CoolMax, when compared to
the rest of the printing pastes used in this study.
Results were compatible with those of air
permeability, Basic paste printed CoolMax has
highest levels similar to none printed sample .
306 6th International Conference of Textile Research Division, NRC, Cairo, Egypt, April 5 –7, 2009
Figure 14 Influence of Printing Paste on Heat Loss
(Temperature Gradient Method).
For Emulsion paste printed CoolMax, even
though it is heavy and thick enough sample when
compared to the rest, the air permeability results
showed highest levels of resistance, heat loss is
relatively high, this is in need for further
investigation where it may be due to presence of
binder in the printing paste which makes a three
dimensionally lined network with the pigment and
produce elastic and cohesive film adhesive to the
substrate.
3.2.2 Effect of Printing Paste on Wettability of
CoolMax
Time taken in seconds by Basic printing paste,
to absorb a drop of water, is diminutive followed by
Emulsion, showing these two printing pastes to
grant wearer the highest sensible perspiration intake
away from the human body. Both Semi-Emulsion
and Synthetic printing pastes should allow a wearer
the same level of comfort, which is much lower
than Basic and Emulsion printing pastes. Figure 15
illustrates the least comfort wearer can accomplish
through not-printed CoolMax; the time taken for a
drop of water to be absorbed is 130 sec.
Figure 15 Influence of Printing Paste on Wettability of
CoolMax.
 B. G. Gabr et al / 6th Inter. Conf. of Text. Res. Div. 6 (TC) (2009) 302 – 308

3.2.3. Effect of Printing Paste on Wickability of
CoolMax
Resultant data from wicking test agreed with
those of wettability test; Basic printing paste gave
four-times higher in length, by which the water is
wicked, compared to not-printed fabric. Emulsion,
Semi-emulsion and Synthetic were close-by in
values, still higher than not-printed fabrics. The
cause of this may be due to addition of reactive
groups of printing pastes, added to CoolMax, which
attracts water. Wicking and wettability resultant
data showed Basic printing paste as the best into
sensible perspiration absorption. Figures 15 & 16
illustrates that the CoolMax moisture transfer
values are improved when printed with the various
printing pastes, this improvement is highest with
Basic printing paste followed by Emulsion, Semi-
emulsion and Synthetic.
3.3. Fastness Properties of Printed CoolMax
Fabrics
The results of rubbing fastness showed that
each of emulsion, semi-emulsion and synthetic
thickener has poor rubbing and that due to presence
of binder in the printing pastes, binder can not
penetrate deep into the polyester fibre. So the
pigment –binder composition remains on the fibre
surface, thus, it gives unsatisfactory rubbing
fastness (Gohl and Vilensky 1999).While basic
printing paste gives a very good to excellent
fastness to rubbing.
The washing and perspiration fastness ranging
from very good to excellent for all type of printing
paste were used this is shown in Table 3. In basic
printing paste the thickener was mepro gum, a
natural thickener which cold swell in the moisture
atmosphere of steaming during fixation process of
prints and this facilitate the dye penetration inside
the fibre to react with reactive group present in the
fibre and thus lead to high degree of dye fixation.
The low solid content of synthetic thickeners
facilitates less resistance to pigment having affinity
to fibres during their diffusion and thus achieves
not only a high degree of fixation but also a greater
depth of colour.

Table 3 Fastness properties of printed CoolMax

fabrics.

Printing Washing Perspiration Rubbing

Figure 16 Influence of Printing Paste on Wickability Paste
of CoolMax. St AH Acidic Alkaline Wet Dry
Emulsion 4-5 5 4-5 4-5 2 3

3.2.4. Effect of Printing Paste on Air Semi -

4-5 5 4-5 4-5 2 3
Permeability of CoolMax emulsion
Synthetic 4-5 5 4-5 4 2 3
Air permeability was highest with Basic
printing paste, similar to not printed CoolMax, this
Basic 4-5 5 4-5 4-5 4-5 5
data was inline with the heat loss results, and was a
result of the thinnest printing layer achieved by this
printing paste when compared to the rest. On the
other hand, the three other printing pastes have
4. Conclusion
more or less the same air permeability values; this
is clear from Figure 10. Conclusion was drawn showing heat loss, at a
relatively long period of time of 150mins, of knitted
CoolMax was lowest when printed with Basic
paste, giving the prospective of cooling down and a
more comfortable effect during engagement in
warming up sports, followed by Emulsion printing
paste then both Semi-emulsion and Synthetic
printing pastes. Air permeability achieved its
highest levels with Basic printing pastes. The
CoolMax sensible moisture absorption values are
improved when printed via the various printing
pastes, this improvement is highest with Basic
printing paste followed by Emulsion, Semi-
Figure 17 Influence of Printing Paste on Air emulsion and Synthetic.
Permeability of CoolMax.

Textile Processing: State of the Art & Future Developments 307

 Fastness properties have shown that emulsion,
semi-emulsion and synthetic pastes gave poor
rubbing fastness. Washing and perspiration fastness
were very good to excellent for all types of printing
pastes which have been used.
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308 6th International Conference of Textile Research Division, NRC, Cairo, Egypt, April 5 –7, 2009
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