BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY

ETHIOPIAN INSTITUTE OF TEXTILE AND FASHION

TECHINOLOGY

Garment Engineering Program

Project Title

Reduction of Reworking Rate Using Cause and Effect Analysis to

Improve Line Productivity

Hosting Company: ASBEM industrial personal limited company

By: Ermias limenh

(BDU 09057004UR)

Mentor: Ass pro. Amare A.

Company Supervisor: Mr. semere

February 2021
 Declaration
report documentation is a fourth-year Garment engineering program student that has
taken the internship experience in ASBEM industrial plc. From a period of February
2020 to June 2020(normal schedule) under the guidance of Mr. Semere (Company
supervisor). To certify that work is original and compiled according to the internship
report writing guideline given by the industry linkage office of the institute.

Approval of the Mentor

The mentor called A. professor Mr. Amare A. contributed a lot of things to the training
program by advising and telling the necessary things to our work.

Approval of the Advisor

Our supervisor Mr. Semere proved as we were working there during his supervision. He
gave us a lot of advice. He also showed us the right direction of our work in this
internship program. This report contains all the necessary information about the project
and activities that have been done in shops. It also describes the experiences which have
been gained.

Students name: signature date

Ermias limenh …………………... ……………….

Advisor name: signature date

Ass pro Amare A. ………………… …………………

I
 Acknowledgment
First of all, we would like to give great praise to our God for the help to work this report
and project. Secondly, we would like to thank my mentors Ass pro Mr. Amare for her
continuous support and advice to write and compile the report and project. Thirdly, we
have a great thanks to ASBEM industrial plc which allows us working with workers in
the company. And also we would like to thank all of the ASBEM operators and
managerial, especially our supervisor Mr. Semere who helps us to know the practical
activity in the company. Finally, I would like to tanks for Bahir Dar Institute of textile
and fashion technology for providing us such kind of an opportunity for students to apply
their understanding of practical knowledge and improve theoretical knowledge.

II
 Executive Summary
The internship is the program in which the students improve their practical skills in the
field. The main goal of the internship program is to develop the student’s practical skills.
With this internship program, we can learn the techniques relevant to our profession as
well as practical work.

This report includes a brief history of ASBEM industrial plc and its main product as well
as its main customers and the main goal of the company. The report also includes
organizational structure and workflow. Finally, I try to do the project to solve the
problems of the company.

III
 Table of Contents
Declaration ........................................................................................................................................ I

Acknowledgment ............................................................................................................................. II

Executive Summary ........................................................................................................................III

List of figure ................................................................................................................................... VI

CHAPTER ONE........................................................................................................................................... 1

1.1 Back ground of the ASBEM INDUSTRIAL PLC Company ............................................................... 1

1.2 Vision of the company ......................................................................................................................... 2

1.3 Mission of the company ....................................................................................................................... 3

1.4 Strategies of the company .................................................................................................................... 3

1. 5 Objective of the company ................................................................................................................... 3

1.6 ASBEM work force.............................................................................................................................. 3

1.7 Managerial Structure ............................................................................................................................ 4

1.8 Marketing & merchandise Department ................................................................................................ 6

1.8.1. Marketing Department ............................................................................................................... 6

1.8.2Merchandise Department ............................................................................................................... 6

1.9 Design and pattern making section ...................................................................................................... 6

1.10 Inputs material of the factory ............................................................................................................. 9

1.10.1. ASBM industrial plc. Major Business partners .......................................................................... 9

1.10.2. The Main Product of ASBM Industrial plc. ..............................................................................10

Company Product Details .....................................................................................................................10

1.11 Design and pattern making department .............................................................................................11

1.11.2. Work flow of design and pattern department ............................................................................12

1.11.3 Making markers .........................................................................................................................12

1.12.1 Spreading ...................................................................................................................................13

1.13 Sewing section ..................................................................................................................................18

CHAPTER TWO....................................................................................................................................23

2. Reduction of Reworking Rate Using Cause and Effect Analysis to Improve Line Productivity 23

2.1. Introduction ........................................................................................................................................23

IV
2.2 Problem Statement ..............................................................................................................................24

2.3.1 General Objectives .......................................................................................................................25

2.3.2 Specific Objective ........................................................................................................................25

2.4. Scope of the project ............................................................................................................................25

2.5 Significance of the Project ..................................................................................................................25

2.6. Literature Review ...............................................................................................................................26

2.7 Methodology .......................................................................................................................................30

2.7.1 Material used ...............................................................................................................................30

2.9 Method of data collection....................................................................................................................30

2.9.1 Sampling technique......................................................................................................................32

2.9.2 Data analysis ................................................................................................................................32

2.10 Cause and Effect ...............................................................................................................................38

2.11 Solution for causes ............................................................................................................................41

2.12 Result and discussion ........................................................................................................................48

2.13 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................................50

2.14 Recommendation ..............................................................................................................................51

PART- THREE ......................................................................................................................................52

3. TOPIC: - Benefit from internship Experience ....................................................................................52

3.1. Internship experience ...............................................................................................................52

3.2. Benefits I gained from internship .............................................................................................52

3.2.1 Practical skill ..........................................................................................................................52

3.2.3 Interpersonal communication skill ...............................................................................................55

3.2.4 Garment problem solving skill .....................................................................................................55

3.2.5 Team playing skill .......................................................................................................................56

3.2.6 Leader ship skill ...........................................................................................................................57

 References .......................................................................................................................................58

V
 List of figure
Figure 1. logo of the company ......................................................................................................... 1
Figure 2. Company image .............................................................................................................. 2
Figure 3.Administration Structure ................................................................................................... 4
Figure 4 Structure of the Factory ................................................................................................... 5
Figure 5. Show garments work flow ............................................................................................... 7
Figure 6. Main product of ASBM ................................................................................................. 10
Figure 7. Designing room .............................................................................................................. 11
Figure 8 .Show spreading .............................................................................................................. 14
Figure 9.Show process flow chart of fabric cutting section .......................................................... 15
Figure 10 Cutting section .............................................................................................................. 16
Figure 11. scissor, band knife and straight knife ........................................................................... 17
Figure 12 .Sewing (assembly) line ................................................................................................ 20
Figure 13. Finishing section .......................................................................................................... 21
Figure 14. defectives in the company ............................................................................................ 24
Figure 15. cause of the defects ...................................................................................................... 38
Figure 16. Inaccurate cutting ......................................................................................................... 39
Figure 17 defect caused by damaged marking pattern ................................................................. 40
Figure 18 changing marking patter.............................................................................................. 44
Figure 19. Installing tow way discussion system ......................................................................... 46
Figure 20 .compatible thread ......................................................................................................... 47
Figure 21.machine maintenance .................................................................................................... 48
Figure 22. Practical skill ................................................................................................................ 54
Figure 23. Team playing skill ....................................................................................................... 56

VI
 List of table

Table 1. Manpower status................................................................................................................ 4

Table 2.Operation of garments manufacturing are given below in detail ....................................... 8
Table 3. List of different type of sewing machine and machine brands ........................................ 19
Table 4 analysis of defectives........................................................................................................ 33
Table 5. Defectives after implementation...................................................................................... 48

VII
 CHAPTER ONE

1.1 Back ground of the ASBEM INDUSTRIAL PLC Company

ASBEM industrial plc. (pry bat limited company) is a family owned private limited
company managed by Ethiopian entrepreneurs. The company has legally registered and
established as a business firm in the year of 2000 under Ethiopian commercial code by
visionary young and dynamic Ethiopian entrepreneurs’ family in the year of 2006 under
the commercial laws of the federal republic of Ethiopia.

ASBM industrial plc. is located from Addis Ababa in Oromo region at around a kaki. The
factory is fully equipped with state of art production facilities acquired from the most
reputable manufacturers of the world such as Juki, Marrow latest Japanese brand
machinery with over 332 sewing machines. and this company has branch in sendafa
consists washing, knitting and embroidery machines. The company uses made to order
system to sell the products.

Figure 1. logo of the company

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 Figure 2. Company image

1.2 Vision of the company

 The vision is to become an exemplary organization in both the local and
national garment markets.

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1.3 Mission of the company
 The mission is to realize our vision by generating a reasonable return to the
shareholders through proper utilization of resources and continuous customer
satisfaction.

1.4 Strategies of the company

 Develop a strong customer relationship.
 Engage in a continuous product development endeavors.
 Devise and implement methods of reducing cost of production without affecting
equality of products.
 Provide continuous personnel training and capacity building.
 Focus on both local and national markets.

1. 5 Objective of the company

 To produce light quality wearing apparels that can compete in the national
market.
 To attract capital and technological know-how.
 To generate reasonable project.

1.6 ASBEM work force

Currently the factory (company) operate with total 336 staff both permanent and
temporary employee at management and operator level.

S/N Staff sections Quantity

1 Administration 7

2 Cutting 10

3 Sewing operator 229

4 Finishing 21

5 Quality 14

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6 Production leaders, Supervisor and group leaders 13

7 Maintenance 4

8 Line ironing 9

9 Helpers 16

10 Janitors 7

11 Guards 6

Total 336

Table 1. Manpower status

1.7 Managerial Structure

Managing
Director

External Finance & Marketin

Advisor Factory Admin g Head Office
Manager Assistant

Driver/ Export Local Mkt

Support
Janit.O Division Division

Out let
Field
sales

Figure 3.Administration Structure

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1.71 Factory Structure

FACTORY MANAGER

Secretary Personnel

General Service

G/Plant D/Plant K/Plant Store Head

Woven Knitted Lab head Knitted head

Designer Designer Q/supervisor Quality supervisor

P/supervisor P/supervisor

Q/supervisor Q/supervisor

Figure 4.Structure of the Factory

Some Responsibility of Functional Area
1- General manager: controls the overall activates of the company
2- Human resource dep’t (HR): control promotions, annuals and discipline of
community in the company
3- Supply dep’t: purchasing of material depending up on department and
distribution demand.
4- Finance dep’t: controls and supply payment customer tolerance cost analysis.
5- Design division: design d/t type of clothes based on customer needs.
6- maintenance dep’t: controls over all activity actives and managing the
maintenance cycle
7- production manager: This is an area where cutting, sewing, finishing and
printing d/t designs on garment are controlled
8- Quality control: consoles the quality product of the company

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 9- Knitting manager: it evaluates customer sample, determine fabric width, identify
finished GSM, m/c gauge, no of needle per inch.
10- Dyeing & finishing manager: controls dyeing and finishing quality like color
variation.
11- marketing Department: controls goals and study cost/price of production
12- General service Dep’t: given transport service, cleanliness and gardening of the
company

1.8 Marketing & merchandise Department

1.8.1. Marketing Department
In this department work for developing and promoting the image of the company and it is
product line through promotion, optimizing sales opportunities, and developing strategies
for corporate growth. And in this department marketing establishes whole sale and, or
retail strategies and provides feedback from buyers and consumers to merchandising
personnel.

1.8.2Merchandise Department
This department works as a bridge between customer and planning by receiving and
giving information customer tells the merchandiser what product he/she needed the
merchandiser first cheek by communicating with planning. If the company is capable of
producing the required product and informs the customer the communication keeps
going. If planning accepts to produce the customer sends his/her production order sheet to
the merchandiser, then he/her brings to planning. These are central coordinating points
for line development, design execution, and delivery of product lines.1.9 Garment
Department

1.9 Design and pattern making section

In this section designing and patterns are made manually without any support of
computer aided designing and also without any marker making software. In this section
only one designer, pattern maker and also sample maker performs those tasks.

Process flow chart of garments manufacturing processes

Stepwise garment manufacturing sequence on ASBM industrial basis is given below.

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 Design Pattern Sample making
/sketch Design

Sample making
Grading Production
Marker making
pattern

Spreading
Cutting Assembling
Sorting

/Bundling

Final Pressing/finis Inspection

inspection hing

Packing Dispatch

Figure 5. Show garments work flow

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Table 2.Operation of garments manufacturing are given below in detail

SL Operation Job Method

No
01 Design /sketch It is given by buyers to manufacturing Manual
containing sketches including measurements of
particular styles.
02 Basic Block Basic block is an individual component of Manual
garments without any style of design (without
Allowance style, Design).
03 working pattern When a pattern is made for a particular style Manual
with net dimension regarding the basic block
along with allowance then it is called working
pattern.
04 sample Garment To make a sample, this will be approved by Manual
buyer. After making a sample it is sent to buyer
for approval to rectify the faults.
05 Approved sample After rectify the faults, sample is again sent to Manual
buyers. If it is ok then it is called approved
sample.
06 Costing  Fabric costing Manual
 Making charged
 Trimmings
 Profits
07 Production pattern making allowance with net dimension for bulk Manual
production.
08 Grading If the buyer requires different size, so should be Manual
grade as s, m, l, xl, 2xl, 3xl, 4xl.
09 Marker making Marker is a thin paper which contains all the Manual
components for a particular style of garments.
10 Fabric spreading To spread the fabrics on table properly for Manual

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 cutting.
11 Cutting To cut fabric according to marker dimension. Manual

12 Sorting Sort out the fabric according to size and for Manual
&Bundling each size make in individual bundles.
13 Sewing To assemble a full garment. Manual

14 Ironing and After sewing we will get a complete garment Manual

finishing which is treated with steam ironing & also
several finishing processes are done for
example extra loose thread cutting.
15 Inspection Should be approved as initial sample. Manual

16 Packing Treated by polyethylene bag. Manual

17 cartooning/sacking After packing it should be placed in cartooning Manual

(sacking) for local market.
18 Dispatching Ready for local market. Manual

1.10 Inputs material of the factory

 Button
 care label
 Elastic hanger loop
 fabric
 zipper (metal & plastic)
 main label
 sewing thread
The main raw material of the company is cotton, jeans, PC & polyester.

1.10.1. ASBM industrial plc. Major Business partners

 MA Textile
 Al-sir Industry
 Adam spinning

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1.10.2. The Main Product of ASBM Industrial plc.
Company Product Details
Currently under existing technological and human resource capacity of the factory it
is apparent that it has the capacity of producing quite plenty and wide range of
product items in various design, style, and color reference with different fabric
material and 100% cotton fabric material.
PRODUCT:
 Jeans Jacket and Shirts
 Police ware
 Institution uniform
 Over all
 Kids ware
 Over coat
 Polo shirts
 Trousers and shirts

Figure 6. Main product of ASBM

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Major customers of the company
Just to mention some of their accredited and regular customer & they are only local
customers
 Ethiopia construction corporation
 merchandiser
 Ethiopia police
 Local market

1.11 Design and pattern making department

In this department, pattern maker is trained on how to do pattern more accurately and
importance of pattern information in sewing. According to specification, patterns have
made for over all, over coot, Trouser by the exports and it is demonstrated for the pattern
of markers. This department have one designers and sample maker. This department
starts its work as soon as the company installed. In this department different tools are
available for making design and pattern.

Figure 7. Designing room

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 Tools of designing
 Paper
 Pencil
 Rubber
 Metric rulers
 Shears
 French curve

PROBLEM OF DESIGNING ROOM

 The room does not use CAD/CAM system
 The section has not their own design
 It uses only manual grading system
 It not accurate
 Time consuming
Problem to be solved
 It must be use CAD/CAM system
 It must be applying their own designer

1.11.2. Work flow of design and pattern department

Pattern has major role is getting marker by making the required product practically as per
the customer’s requirement. In this department designing and patterns are made though
manually method.

1.11.3 Making markers

This is a process of making an outline of garment patterns on the marking paper for
cutting garment components. After layering, the marker paper is laid on the top of the
layer.

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 Figure 7. marker making

1.12.1 Spreading
Spreading is the process of super imposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, or
specifically designed surface in preparation for the cutting process spreaders are required
to lay up the fabric tension free. Hand spreading (Manual) Method is used to spread the
fabric; thus, one people runs from sides of the table holding one end of the fabric.

Problem of spreading
 The section has no spreading machine
 It uses labor force
 It time consuming
 Improper fabric tension and edge
PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED
 Use spreading machine
 Use time properly

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 Figure 8 .Show spreading

1.12.2. Cutting
After spreading of fabric, cutting operation is performed. This fabric cutting is done in
cutting section. Incorrect cutting can make varies garment faults. In this section fabric
cutting is done by the following methods

Manually operated straight knife method

In this method cutting operation done by using knife, here knife is placed in the side of
the cutting machine it is the most used method in ASBM industrial PLC for cutting
fabrics.

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Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Marker placing at the top

Fabric cutting

Sorting

Numbering and checking

Parts replacing

Bundling

Input to sewing section

Figure 9.Show process flow chart of fabric cutting section

Fabric cutting section is very important for next sewing section, cute fabric is sorted
according to the size of the fabrics. After sorting numbering is done and checking is
preformed 100% for avoid any types of mistakes. We know that dyed fabric varies from
one lot to another though they are dyed by same dyes. Also, shade can be varying from

15
layer to layer. So, during numbering extra care should take. Numbering is done for
avoiding the shade variation of the fabric. After that parts are separated and make a
bundle for sending it to the sewing section. So, cutting section in charge has a great duty
to do all of this according to the sequence, which is explained in above.

Figure 10. Cutting section

Machine used for cutting and their details

 Band knife
 Straight knife
 Scissors

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Figure 11. scissor, band knife and straight knife

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Problem of cutting room

 Fray edge
 Inaccurate cutting
 Invisible numbering

Problem to be solved

 Accurate cutting
 Precise cutting
 Bold numbering

1.13 Sewing section

In this section has sex 6 line with a total of 328 machines. There are different varieties
including: single and three thread, four and five thread over lock machines, flat lock and
different specialized machines top fuse, collar, cuff and pocket form and processing
devices, and button fastening machines etc. In this department contain the most complex
activity of the garment manufacturing process of sewing. It is one of production output of
garment factory. The sewing process involves number of sewing operators, who deal with
for the assembly of different sub assembly operations. The lines also have a line
supervisor, for supervising the sewing operator to work according to the engineer
direction. The sewing process carried out according to the sub and the main assembly
work. The total lines are sex (6), they are containing each individual supervisor for each
line.

The sewing process starts after receive of cut parts in bund. For this bound form is then
distributed to the sewing operator by line supervisor. The distribution for each specific
operator is according to the lay out of the sewing line which is made by the engineer
deplaned on the styles and order. There are also in line quality control operator, who is
responsible for the identification any fault during the specific main assembly operation.

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Table 3. List of different type of sewing machine and machine brands

Machine type Total number Idle Functional Brand

of machines machines machines

Single needle 159 11 148 Aoutory

Double needle 30 6 24 Aoutory

Over lock 32 3 29 Juki

Automotive single 30 7 23 Aoutory

Juki over lock 27 2 25 Juki

Canshine 11 7 4 Juki

Cover stich 9 3 6 Author

Bar tack 9 -- 9 Author

Button attach 11 1 10 Author

Button hole 5 -- 5 Author

MS machine 5 1 4 MS

Zigzag 2 2 -- Juki

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 Figure 12.Sewing (assembly) line
In this section the assembled garment is processed for better, handling, and better
appearance of the garment. It is the final output of garment prepare for packaging. In this
department ironing and packing operation are carried out. It is the final output of garment
prepare for packaging. For the purpose of making a proper packing from part of work
wear are ironed in this section. An operator in this department insert pin the folded
garment in the invisible place of bags. It is the final output of garment prepare for
packaging Ironing, the assemble garment and trimming the threads, folding and packing
the garment in to ploy bag, is done in this section, in this section pressing is done
manually by ironing machine.

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 Figure 13. Finishing section

Pressing
Finishing and pressing are two processes which have the greatest influence on the
finished look of a garment. Fusing creates the foundation and pressing puts the final seal
of quality on the garment.
Packing
Most garments are packed in plastic bags, either at the end of production or when they
enter the finished goods store. Products like over coat and overall.
Quality control
In sewing area there are two-line inspection Inline and off line inspection. Inline
inspection is before garment making random inspection inside sewing area; off line
inspection is 100% inspection after garment production out of sewing area. It is
consisting from end line quality controller in sewing area and finishing quality controller
area.

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General problem of the company
 ASBM garment industry does not have CAD system. So, this well decrease the
final productivity and production capacity decrease the workers or operators late
without any permission
 The workers can move everywhere by the working time.
 The company or factory does not have incentive or bonus for the worker
 The company does not think about any ergonomics like ventilator, cafeteria
clinic.
 I t does not use work measurement and delivery date setting
 It uses poor material handling
 There are bottle necks process due to unequal work distribution among the
worker

Strength of the company

 Highly profitable
 Fulfills local demand of the country
 Much number of staff are involved this company; this helps for decreasing the
number of unemployed

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 CHAPTER TWO
2. Reduction of Reworking Rate Using Cause and Effect Analysis to
Improve Line Productivity

2.1. Introduction
This industry is one of the Ethiopians garment industry and Ethiopia is hope fill on this
garment industry to compete on global market in cost and quality therefore the factory
will be done modern way of production by applying technology and skilled man power.
Most of our garment industry is affected by high amount of rework and defective piece,
this project is done productivity upgrading in production room in ASBEM industrial Plc.
On this project all every necessary step is clearly identified.

Productivity usually defined as a ratio between output to input. It is a fundamental

concept considering this efficient and effective use of resources like men, material,
machines, space, time, power and building as well as reducing re-works. Productivity
improvement is seen as a critical success factor and the foundation of profitability.
Essentially the focus is on enhancing productivity to meet or beat the competition on
relevant cost, quality, time and flexibility issues.

The main target of a factory is to be profitable; being profitable is through; improve

productivity by using, rework minimizing, increase ability to improve the degree of
sewing in order to solve the formation of defects, improve product quality and assure
quality by reducing rework, increasing customer retention and decrease the occurrence of
defects. The minimizing of rework garment results in Tangible benefits in the different
aspects, such as productivity, better fabric utilization, delivery date meet, labor
productivity, overall resource effectiveness. This method can also achieve the objectives
of each month to increase production by preventing the defect caused by operator and
machines problem. it can improve the efficiency of production and productivity in the
factory to increase production, productivity, save costs and promote companies. So, by
minimizing defect and rejection can be fulfilling the delivery date of customer order and
increase productivity of their sewing room.

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2.2 Problem Statement
Currently there are much amount of rework in ASBEM industrial PLC. Amount of
rework defectives per day is 80 up to 120 of 440 products per day. This amount of rework
highly affects the profit of the entire company though PRODUCTIVITY and quality.
This loss for one company follows a big financial problem for the future.

Reworks in the garments industry is a common works that hampers /disturb the smooth
production rate and focus poor quality products having an impact on overall factory
economy from all of the above ASBEM industrial plc. Highly affected by rework, I
believe when progresses in productivity they should be series follow up and see every
product process steps be carefully Hence factory can make more profit through
productivity improvement. I have mentioned a problem where you can focus and start
working on improving productivity through reducing rework.

Figure 14. defectives in the company

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2.3. Objective
2.3.1 General Objectives
 To Improve Productivity through Rework reduction.

2.3.2 Specific Objective

 To study the root causes of rework
 To implement possible solution
 To evaluate the effectiveness of the new method

2.4. Scope of the project

This project is done on in ASBEM industrial plc. Production room and Bahir Dar
university which focuses on production improvement in production room by minimizing
re work with study of root cause and giving solution. In ASBEM industrial plc there are
many cases of rework in production room and this project is focus on different analyzing
cause of defects and giving solution methods and needs long time for data collection and
defining the type of defect, due to this, the project is limited to study and explain all the
cases and problem solving methods.

2.5 Significance of the Project

The significance of the project is that if all the principles of the project are applied
directly and correctly in ASBEM industrial plc. the following results are being shown;

 Increasing Production: Main purpose of controlling the shop floor programmed

minimizes idleness of men and machines. It thus helps in raising industrial output
 Offer the production of component panels, assemblies and garments of requisite
quantity and quality and at the target time.
 Coordinate, monitor, and feedback concerned with the production of a particular style
to the management, analyzing the results of the production activities, understanding
their importance and taking necessary corrective action.
 Achieve low production cost and reliable customer service
 The main target of a factory is to be profitable; being profitable is through; improve
productivity by using, rework minimizing, increase ability to improve the degree of
sewing in order to solve the formation of defects, improve product quality and assure

25
 quality by reducing rework, increasing customer retention and decrease the
occurrence of defects.

2.6. Literature Review

2.6.1 Definition Rework is Non-repairable defect may occur due to low quality raw
materials or faulty process or employee casual behavior. However, factory must have
check points to control over this issue. There is no ready-made solution that can reduce
rework percentage overnight. Each order is unique but this paper works suggest how to
handle this issue and bring down rework rate to minimum. Reworks in the garments
industry is a common works that hampers /disturb the smooth production rate and focus
poor quality products having an impact on overall factory economy& minimization of
reworks is a must in quality and productivity improvement (adnan, 2013).

Productivity is affected by the amount of rework and rejection, amount of rework

increasing the company productivity is decreased, there are invers relations. In sewing
section identify reworks and eliminate them is important to saving of time, cost and
improved product quality Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker
did not include the correct number of parts. Mixed parts, probably because the marker is
not correctly labeled, resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not facing in
correct direction on napped fabrics. Not all patterns facing in same direction (either way)
on a one-way fabric. Patterns not aligned generous marking, especially in combination
with skimpy marking results in components being sewn together with puckering and
pleating. When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of the lay get cut
with bits missing. Not enough knife clearance freedom. Wrong check matching, i.e. lines
across the seam are not matching. Wrong check boxing, i.e. checks are not showing a full
or partial box across the seam. Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or aligned
resulting in garment parts getting cut with bits missing in some plies at the edge of the
spread. Narrow fabric, causes garment parts at the edge of the lay getting cut with bits
missing. Incorrect tension of plies, (adinan.m.khan, 2013)

One of the key processes performed in organizations is to minimize the re-works and
increase production of the sewing department. This review will include the process of

26
reducing the re-works or alteration happening in the various departments of garment
industry.

Generally, in an industry more focus is given on profit margin, customer demand for high
quality product and improved productivity. In garment manufacturing, it is usual few
rejected garments after shipment & re-work of garments before shipment.

Reworks in the garments industry is a common works that hampers the smooth
production rate and focus poor quality products having an impact on overall factory
economy. Minimization of reworks is a must in quality and productivity improvement.
Poor quality product and low production rate. Reworks are the non-productive activities
focusing on any activity that customer are not willing to pay for. Nonproductive activities
describe that the customer does not consider as adding value to his product. An
application of pare to analysis and cause-effect diagram for minimizing defect percentage
in sewing section. By reacting quicker in minimization of reworks to make a product as
per customer demand with expected quality, the company can invest less money and
more costs savings.

Identifications and Categorizations of Defects Certain quality related problems, often

seen in ASBEM industrial PLC factory manufacturing like sewing, color, sizing, or
garment defects should never be over looked. Sewing Defects: These defects are usually
caused by errors arising from wrong functioning of sewing machines. Open seams, wrong
stitching techniques, missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, improper thread
tension etc. are some of the sewing defects in garment. (RTSHNAN, 2016)

2.6.2 Cause Rework

Seaming Defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from the interaction
of the operator and machine in the handling of garment

Placement Defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising in marking and
cutting as well as sewing operations in the sewing room or a combination of these

Fabric Defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from the fabric
processing like knitting and dyeing.
27
Embroidery Defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from the
embroidery processing of the garments.

Color Defects: Variation of color between the sample and the final garment, wrong color
combinations and mismatching dyes

Sizing Defects: Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of various parts

garment like sleeves of XL size for body of L size garment can deteriorate the garments
beyond repair

Finished Garment Defects: Broken or defective buttons, snaps, stitches, different shades
within the same garment, dropped stitches, exposed notches, fabric defects, holes, lose or
hanging sewing threads, misaligned buttons and holes, missing buttons, needle cuts,
pulled or loose yarn, stains, unfinished buttonhole, short zippers, inappropriate trimmings
etc.

Cause-Effect (“Fishbone”) Diagram is developed by Kaoru Ishikawa; this tool is

frequently called the Ishikawa diagram in his honor. Its purpose is to organize and
display the interrelationships of various theories of root cause of a problem. By focusing
attention on the possible causes of a specific problem in a structured, systematic way, the
diagram enables a problem-solving team to clarify its thinking about those potential
causes, and enables the team to work more productively toward discovering the true root
causes.
2.6.3 Ways of improving Rework
1. Inline quality inspection at regular interval: Traffic light system is the most effective
inspection tool to reduce defect generation at source. Less number of a defective
seam is made less the time will be lost in repairing it. Inline checking system will
alert operators in concentrating their job. It also helps in another way. At the start of
the style, an operator may not understand the specification an interaction with quality
inspector will make an operator clear about the quality requirement. Poorly managed
factory loses productivity up to 10% due to repair and reject as mentioned by quality
(Dr.Bheda, 2001).

28
2. Operator motivation Operator’s motivation is the most crucial part in productivity
improvement. If they are motivated, they will put enough efforts on the work. Employee
motivation generally depends on various factors like work culture, HR policies, bonus on
extra effort or achieving target. In garment manufacturing operator’s motivation come
through extra money operator motivation can be improving by sharing certain percentage
of your profit made from operator’s extra effort. Use work aids, attachments, guides,
correct pressure foots and folders: These are some kinds of time-saving devices that
facilitate the operator to perform their work effectively with less effort. If work aids are
used effectively operation cycle time can be reduced more time than existing cycle time.
3. Feeding to the sewing line: It is not a fault of production department if they did not
get cuttings to sew. All plans and efforts towards productivity will fail if the line is
not being fed continuously. “No feeding or irregular feeding” is one of the top
reasons for lower productivity in a poorly managed factory. Poor production plan,
wrong selection product mix in seasons and ineffective cutting department are the
reasons that stop continuous feeding.

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 2.7 Methodology
2.7.1 Material used
1.Stiff plastic material 5. marker (for writing)
2.marking pattern 6.pen
3.sissoccer 7. paper
4.Cutting knife
2.8 Methods of the study
I have used different mechanism to explore the problem found in the factory. Those
are the actual observation of the production process by comparing the information
that I got from the factory each other and evaluating the information with respect to
theoretical subject.
2.8.1 Research Approach

problem
lertrature review identification data collection data analysis

identification root implimantation

observation of the conclusion and
cause of the and suggetion of
result recomandation
problem solution

2.9 Method of data collection

Primary data; These were data’s that are first handed from the original sources by the
researcher.

Observation observed that in 2 lines there are many types of defects on men’s
black jeans shirt
 Open seam(OP)
 Misaligned seam (MS)
 Damage(D)
 Broken stitch(BS)
 Component missed(CM)

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  Loose stitch(LS)
 Incorrect placement of pocket and flap(IPP)
 Mismatched component(MMC)
 Table2.1 collection of data

Table2.1 collection of data

Day 1 2 3 4 5 Total Percentage

Type L1 L1 L1 L1 L1 Occurrences
L2 L2 L2 L2
L2
OP 28 18 21 27 215 215 *100

32
17 16 21 677
18 =31.75%

17
MS 14 12 17 22 126 126 *100

15
11 12 677
9 5 =18.61%
9
D -- 2 -- -- -- 4 4 *100
1 1 -- -- 1 677
=0.6%

21 14 23 17 14 187 187 *100

BS 18 20 16 25 19 677
=27.61%

CM 1 -- -- 2 -- 3 3 *100
-- -- 1 -- -- 677
=0.44%

LS 5 19 2 -- -- 43 43 *100
-- 2 -- 4 677
11 =6.35%

IPP 10 15 6 12 14 91 91 *100
2 3 9 14 16 677
=13.44%

MMC -- 2 -- -- 1 8 8 *100
-- -- -- 4 1 677
Tt=677 =1.18%

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 Questioner
Asking the quality supervisors and inspectors about the most frequent defect
occurred. they told me
 Misaligned seam at the side seam and armhole of jeans shirt
 Incorrect pocket and flap placement
 Broken stitch at cuff attachments and collar mostly
 Open seam at side seam and armhole tip

Secondary data; data that are readily prepared by other people and that documented for
the future use. I used internets and some reference.

2.9.1 Sampling technique

In this company there are five active lines and at a time all are constructing black jeans
shirt. For this analysis selected sample line is line 1 because relative to other 4 lines line
one has more number of defectives.

The selected sample product is black jeans shirt it’s because of being current and frequent
product on the company.

2.9.2 Data analysis

- In different five days after collecting the data for one production line of black
shirt and doing analysis for the reworking time and rate.
- This analysis showed below in graph is for the selection of defect type that is
mostly frequented in the company.
- And the table shows frequent defectives how much affects the company in
productivity and profit.

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 35
30
Occurrance%

25
20
15
10
5
0
OP MS D BS CM LS IPP MMS

Deffects

Graph 1; the occurrence percentage of defects

- This graph shows much amount of open seam, broken stitch, misalign stitch
and incorrect placement of pocket are highly occurring in this company .and
this project is trying to decrease the number of those defects.

Analysis of rework time and rate of defectives is mandatory for the knowing the
effect of defects on the company.

Table 4. analysis of defectives

Day Type defectives Min for Total min for rework

rework per

33
 pc

Broken stitch 21 9sec 189sec

1 Misalign stitch 25 42sec 1050sec

Open seam 32 11sec 352sec

Incorrect placement 12 121sec 1452sec

of pocket and flap

Total=3043sec=50.7min

Day Type defectives Min for Total min for rework

rework per

pc

Broken Stitch 17 9sec 153sec

2 Misalign stitch 22 42sec 924sec

34
 Open seam 28 11sec 308sec

Incorrect placement 14 121sec 1694sec

of pocket and flap

Total=3079sec=51.3min

Day Type Defectives Min for Total min for rework

rework per pc

Broken stitch 23 9sec 207sec

3 Misalign stitch 12 42sec 504sec

Open seam 28 11sec 308sec

Incorrect placement 15 121sec 1815sec

of pocket and flap

Total=2834sec=47.2min

35
Day Type defectives Min for Total min for rework

rework per pc

4 Broken Stitch 19 9sec 171sec

Misalign stitch 15 42sec 630sec

Open seam 21 11sec 231sec

Incorrect 6 121sec 726sec

placement of
Total=1758sec=29.3min

pocket and flap

Type Defectives Min for rework Total min for rework

per pc

Broken 22 9 198sec

Stitch

36
Misalign stitch 18 42sec 756sec

Open seam 17 11sec 187

Incorrect placement 10 121sec 1210sec

of pocket and flap

Total=2351sec=39.1min

 In line the average time loss in those 4 defects per day 

50.7min+51.3min+47.2min+29.3min+39.1min
= 5
217.6 min
= 5
= 43.52𝑚𝑖𝑛\𝑑𝑎𝑦

Time loss in month=43.52min*22days=957.44min

 Yearly loss=957.44min*12month=11489min
 Loss in piecesactual hourly peroducti0n=55 shirt
60min=55pc
43.5min=x??
43.5∗55
= 60
X==39.839pcs/day

 Monthly piece loss=24days*39pc=936pcs

 Yearly pieces loss=858pcs*12month=11,232pcs

 Cost loss net profit for one jeans shirt =26 birr

37
 1 piece=26birr

39 pieces=x??

X=26*39=1,014 birr/day

 Monthly cost loss=24day*1014birr=24,336 birr

 Yearly cost loss=24336*12month=292,032birr
 Present of productivity decreased by =39/440=0.0886*100=8.86%

2.10 Cause and Effect

There are money causes known that generate the defects. those causes are general causes
shown in fish bone diagram.

Figure 15. cause of the defects

Specific cause; those causes are observed in our host company for the frequent occurred
defects. the critical are identified for each defects.

 Open seam- is type of defect that creates hole at the seam line. caused by;

38
 1)inaccurate cutting of garment components in cutting section affects directly on
sewing section defects. i.e. open seam, the called” garbage in garbage out
“process is occurred.
Inaccurate cutting can be cut out of marking line or passing in to the marking line,
and when an operator guiding the edge of the cut component the hole will be
created because of the missing of the other edge.

Figure 16. Inaccurate cutting

2) operator skill this defect is also caused by less experience or concentration of

operators. in this company same operators are unable to sew curved edge of
garment components. at armhole tip and side seam this defect seen frequently’
 Broken stitch when the sewing thread is break or the seam is unable to form
continuous stitch. due to;
1) thread type selection when the selection of thread is not compatible
with fabrics. For black jeans shire at shoulder attachment and cuff
attachment I observed that thread selection is not compatible.

2) machine maintenance irregular tension of threads through tension discs.

and there is no preventive maintenance.
 Misaligned stitch is created when the fabric is folded down or gathering on the
seam line.

39
 1 )0prator skill on this type of defect operator skill less is highly observed.
Analyzing the speed of the operators, handling of cut pieces and feeding tension
are reasons for this defect.
2 ) stitch length regulation lower or higher length of stitch forms folding on the
seam line.
 Incorrect placement of pocket and flap is missing the position of pocket and
flap at the front panels of the shirt.
1) Damage on marking pattern

Figure 17.defect caused by damaged marking pattern

40
2.11 Solution for causes
After analyzing those causes I suggest and implements specific and general solutions for
those defects.

 Changing marking pattern to stiff plastic material

 after understanding the cause of incorrect placement of pocket the main solution
is changing the marking pattern by stiff plastic material.
 by searching plastic material with a zero cost (it’s a used and garbage plastic).
 Terracing the perfect each marking pattern and cut with its shape.

 This prototype is eliminating the defect occurred by this cause completely. in this
company the products are regional police wear and jeans shirt. And I constructed
all marking pattern for those products.

41
42
43
 Figure 18. changing marking patter

 Changing the position/operation of operators many number of defects are

seen in the same place .by selecting the appropriate operator for the operation that
cause the defect on the product .is done by
- Select bottleneck operation
- Searching the operator that can perform the operation
- Observing when they are performing change the position.
 In line 1 open seam is observed at side seaming operation then by searching
the operator that can perform side seaming I found an operator she was
performing shoulder attachment then checking the ability and I changed the
position each other.
 Informal training for the operator its suggesting and showing the way how to
sew or operate the operation directly going to the position of the operator.
in ASBEM there is higher flow of operator this directly affect the skill of the
operator and also training day are two days. i suggest that
 optimum handling and feeding of fabric while sewing
 have to sew giving the correct seam allowance
 curves and v shapes must be maintained

44
  two-way discussion system in the company this system must be implemented
specially for this company because the company has not line inspection and when
the defects are occurring once they repeated in the day.

it came from knowing the repeated defects per hour and giving a intermediate solution for
the causes. installing this system gives responsibilities for the line leader and the operator
and decreasing defect hourly. The defects are categorized by the place (components)
occurred on the product .and quality inspector by register hourly number of defect on this
prepared sheet report to the line leader for immediate solution for defects occur.

- If the defectives per hour per component is < 3 it can be tolerated

- If the defective per hour per component > 3 will reported to line leader to make
an immediate solution. If the number is repeated on this place will reported to
quality supervisor for short time discussion made.

45
 Figure 19. Installing tow way discussion system
After giving code for the defects write on the board for the visualization of quality super visor.

Green card up to 3 can be tolerated

Yellow card 3 to 5 warning

Red card if total number of defectives is greater than 6

 material selection in same areas the thread selection is not compatible, uses the
thread that applicable previous fabric sewing and its weak type of thread not for
denim fabric. causes broken stitch.

46
  I recommend that the company must use the same and compatible
thread through the line.

 And the company purchase thread that is compatible to the jeans in

strength and color.

Figure 20 .compatible thread

cutting department not much concentration on marking lines, and suggesting cutting
operators to guide the marking line insures open seam defect.
Cultivate the awareness of cutting operators for accurate cutting is the good
solution.

 Maintenances of machines preventive maintenance useful for preventing defect

before they occur.

47
 Figure 21.machine maintenance
 “Tension regulation and stich length optimization is one part of maintenance
performed every day before the daily work is started”. This suggestion has
measurable change on the occurrence of broken stitch.

2.12 Result and discussion

The implementation and the solution made on those four crucial defects shows a visible
decreased the number of defects .and those changes are visible and touchable, for
lowering the number of defects and also the cost saved by the solution.

Table 5. Defectives after implementation

Defect Day1 Day2 Day3 Day4 Rework time Occurrence%

Broken stich 15 11 9 11 9sec 46*100

188=

Misaligned 19 13 8 16 42sec 56*100

Stich 188=

0pen 21 16 14 17 11sec 78*100

Seam 188=

Incorrect 2 2 3 1 121sec 8*100

pocket
placement 188=

Total 1397sec 1063sec 934sec 1079sec Total

reworking defectives=188
23.28min 17.71min 15.56min 17.91min
time /day

23.28+17.71+15.56+17.91
Average defect reworking time in 4 days= =18.63𝑚𝑖𝑛/𝑑𝑎𝑦
4

48
Here the implementation changes rework time by =43.52min-18.63min =24.89min
55∗18.63
Product loss per day(x) = 60min=55pcs x= x=17 pcs/day
60

18.63min=x??

Percent of productivity decrement= 17/440=0.038*100=3.8%

Before the solution made the pieces consumed by rework defected garments approaches
per day was 39 pcs, after the solutions implemented the suggestion made the average
rework pieces per day comes to 17pcs.

 39pcs-17pcs=22pieces of black shirt is constructed per day by the

minutes those are consumed by reworking.
 cost of making a product is 26birr

22pcs *26birr=572birrper day

- Monthly saved cost =572birr*26days=14,872birr/month

- Yearly saved cost=14872birr*12month=178,464birr/year/line

The cost before the solution was 292,032birr/year and after the implementation it
becomes 113,568birr/year. the change is 178,464birr/year.

400000 Cost change

300000
Birr

200000 previous
present
100000 saved

Graph 2 cost

%productivity
10

0
Category 1

Graph 3. productivity

49
 2.13 Conclusion
ASBEM industrial plc is well known company in Ethiopia. The company have huge
problem on product defects, this problem affects the productivity as well as the quality of
products. the higher amount of defectives takes higher reworking time and much WIP
and this affects hourly and daily productivity of the company.

This project is designed to spalling this problem on my hosting company. Starts from
observing the problem and collecting the data to select higher occurrence defect and
working analysis on those defects, and seeking the specific cause of the defects then
implementing solution and directing suggestion improve the productivity and quality.

The result of the project is visible on the company by lowering the number of defectives
per hour and per day. The rate of rework in sewing line is decreases from 43.52minute to
18.63 minute. Percent of productivity changed is becomes 8.86% to 3.8%. this shows that
the decrement is improved by 5.1%. The profit in cost is also the changed from 292,032
birr/year to 113568birr/year its 178,464birr/year.

50
2.14 Recommendation
The aim of ASBEM industrial pic is to Play a leading role in the domestic and export
market. So, to achieve its goal the company must increase the productivity and quality of
the product. And also they should reduce the amount of Rework.
To achieve this, they have to follow certain circumstances;
 The operators should have attended on time and careful for the work.
 The labors and the operators should have to train the skill and knowledge for all
sections and update their level of work.
 The super visors must prepare planed and series training programs to upgrade the
skills of employees as well as the operators.
 And also the supervisors and line leaders have to perform their duties by
controlling the operators.
 The company should employ qualified and experienced man power.
 There must be motivation and incentive scheme to appreciate hard working
employees, by applying grading system for the operators.
 Line inspector, production manager must be involved (employed) for the
company.

51
 PART- THREE
3. TOPIC: - Benefit from internship Experience
3.1. Internship experience
Before my internship I was not that skillful on solving manufacturing based problems but
now it has opened my eyes on how I can be able to solve any problems that I face in any
manufacturing problems. Completing this internship program made me to identify the
problems and then how to solve them if happened. My internship gave the opportunity to
apply some problem solving skill learned with in the class room to real world activity
within the industry. It gives me an in-depth analysis of the industrial problems really and
how to solve them.

3.2. Benefits I gained from internship

Internship helps me to get experience in my field of study. I was not sure what I wanted
to do when I graduated. So I thought some real life experience would help me solidify my
future endeavor. Doing internship help me to know more about my field.

The benefit of internship which I acquired during my internship includes the following: -

 Practical skill
 Theoretical knowledge
 Industrial problem solving
 Team playing skill
 Leadership skill

3.2.1 Practical skill

The two and half month internship program we acquire to have practical skill. As an
example, now I know how production planning and control in garment industry is
performed.

The internship problem has many purposes to achieve it is intended to help students gain
and important skills in terms of all aspects these are:

52
 learn how to make marker for different types of products
 Know how to spread fabrics on the spreading table.
 Learn how to cut the lay/number of plies by using straight knife machines.
 Know how to make ticketing and bundling process.
 Know the operators are the main catalyst in garment industries.
 Learn how to produce products produced in the fore factory.
 Learn experience more than learning
 Know how the machine goes operate.
 Learn observing and controlling of the quality of the product.
 See different types of garment products and how to make them.
 Learn to attend safety precaution to produce products and also to be safe from
hazards.

53
 Figure 22. Practical skill

3.2.2 Theoretical knowledge

As we know practical skills cannot be attained without having theoretical knowledge.
Practical aspects are done as a reflection of theoretical understandings. Knowing this we
have tried to relate each and every practical skill with the theoretical knowledge that we
have already acquired. This helped us to develop our theoretical knowledge. In addition it
helped us to get theoretical knowledge that we will get in the future class. In general,

54
during this internship period, we have advanced our theoretical knowledge and we
have gained many new theoretical knowledge and skills for developing our second
task.

After I have completed my internship program I am able to upgrade my theoretical

knowledge. When I was learning in the class there was many theories which seems to be
ideal and not true. But, after I had completed this internship program I have checked that
those I have learned in theory are real and found in the practical world.

3.2.3 Interpersonal communication skill

Since Garment is a broad industry so that it requires a joint effort to work with employer.
But the environment by itself forces someone to develop interpersonal communication
skill. Moreover, in order to share experience with co-workers someone needs to have
good communication skill and approach. Having this nature, the internship program
helps us to develop our interpersonal communication skills.

Generally, it helps me;

 To be good listener and speaker

 Be polite
 Attack ideas not people
 Think legally
 Avoid confusing
 Respect others etc.

Responsibility and honesty

3.2.4 Garment problem solving skill

To identify the garment problems and then how to solve them if happened.

My internship gave the opportunity to apply some garment problem solving skill learned
with in the class room to real world activity within industry

55
 3.2.5 Team playing skill

There are different professionals some have education background and others have life
time experience, which are engaged in production sector. Every employer has their own
task and responsibility to perform accurately in order to keep the production in progress
with the desired quality at the required time.
Working in group it has more advantage than working individually such as reduction of
critical errors. To developed the habit of working in a group and my relation with others
to be smooth and keep continued, internship help me to developed some incredible
characters like:

Show respect

Open mindedness

Trust

Helping each other.

Figure 23. Team playing skill

56
 3.2.6 Leader ship skill
Leadership is a critical management skill. Leadership skill is the ability to motivate a group
of people to achieve an incredible goal. I developed my leadership skill by practicing the
essential qualities that characterize a successful leader while I was working with the section
heads. Among the qualities treating with good approach, gaining mutual respect and
understanding, to have employee trust etc.
I have realized a few important guidelines for achieving better leadership: -
1. Positive attitude

2. Clear instruction

3. Personal contact

4. Team work

57
 References
adinan.m.khan. (2013). mimization of rework in quality and productivity improvement in apperal
industy.

adnan, m. (2013). conterol of product wast re-work and work-in-progress Chapter 5,3,page 19,.
WQA.

Dr.Bheda. (2001). Productivity in apparel manufacturing.

RTSHNAN, D. (2016). DEFECT IN GARMENT & ARPLA NAYARK.

58