Refrigerator Troubleshooting Guide

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Guide
Use this chart to find out what is causing a problem with your refrigerator. Look up the symptom and then review
some of the possible causes. Follow links from the possible causes to articles on how to verify the cause and how
to repair the problem.
Check
Symptom
Click on underlined items for further information
Refrigerator does not run and  Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in securely
the light does not work  Check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker
 Test the power outlet for current
 Inspect the electrical cord for damage
 Eliminate use of an extension cord, if any is being used
 Check the outlet voltage
Refrigerator does not run but  Check the temperature setting

the light works  Make certain there is a three inch space outside of the refrigerator
between the walls and the back and sides and at least a one inch gap
above, to allow for air flow
 Clean the condensor coils
 Unplug the refrigerator, wait two hours and plug it in. If you hear it
running, a problem is causing the compressor to overheat
 Test the temperature control
 Test the evaporator fan
 Test the defrost timer
 Test the compressor relay
 Test the overload protector
 Test the compressor motor
Refrigerator light does not  Replace the bulb

work  Test the door switch
Refrigerator or freezer is not  Check the temperature setting

cold enough  Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the refrigerator or
freezer
 Check for air flow restrictions in vents
 Test the temperature control
 Check the door seals
 Test the door switch
 Test the defrost heater
 Test the defrost timer
 Test the evaporator fan
 Check for a clogged drain tube
 Check for refrigerant leak
Refrigerator or freezer is too  Check the temperature setting

cold  Test the temperature control
Refrigerator is noisy or makes  Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the
strange sounds defrost heater
 Check that the refrigerator is level
 Check the drain pan
 Check the condensor fan
 Check the evaporator fan
 Inspect the compressor mounts
Refrigerator runs continuously  Defrost the freezer

 Check the door seals
 Test the door switch
 If you recently adjusted the temperature control, loaded the refrigerator
or are in a humid location, it is not uncommon for a refrigerator to run
for 24 hours or more before getting cool.
Refrigerator starts and stops  Clean the condensor coils

frequently  Check the outlet voltage
 Test the condensor fan
 Test the compressor relay
 Test the overload protector
 Test the compressor motor
Freezer does not defrost  Test the defrost timer

automatically  Test the defrost heater
 Test the defrost thermostat
Refrigerator has an unpleasant  Remove spoiled food

odor  Clean refrigerator interior with a solution of hot water and baking soda
 Clean the door seals
 Remove breaker strips and check for wet insulation
Water on floor outside of  Check the drain pan

refrigerator  If you have an ice-maker, check the water supply hose going into and
coming out of the water inlet valve
Water inside the refrigerator  Clean the drain tube

 If you have an ice-maker, check refrigerator and ice-maker for level
How to Reset a Circuit Breaker
Located inside or outside of your home is a circuit breaker panel (sometimes called a fuse box) that contains circuit
breakers for each of the circuits in your home. Some homes have more than one circuit breaker panel, there may be
a main panel plus one or more sub panels in other locations.
Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.
A circuit breaker provides protection for each of your electrical circuits by stopping the flow
of current if an overload or fault occurs. When an electrical fault occurs or the load on your
circuit becomes too great, the breaker on that circuit trips and interrupts the flow of current to that circuit. A tripped
circuit breaker is still sometimes referred to as a "blown fuse" in reference to the older technology that circuit
breakers replaced. If your home uses an actual fuse and not a circuit breaker, click here for information on fuse
boxes.
Instructions To Reset a Circuit Breaker
Before electricity can be restored, the circuit breaker must be reset. However, even before you do that, you must
take steps to ensure that it is safe to do so. Turn off or unplug all of the devices that are plugged into the circuit.
Make certain no dangerous condition exists before restoring power.
A circuit breaker which has been tripped will usually be in the middle or "OFF" position. However, sometimes the
switch will not look like it has tripped and may appear as though it is in the "ON" position. If none of the breakers
appear to be tripped, gently wiggle each one, the tripped breaker will usually feel looser than the other switches.
Locate the tripped circuit breaker and reset it by pushing it all the way to the "OFF" position and then back to the
"ON" position. Often when you cannot reset the circuit breaker, it is because it must be turned all the way to the
"OFF" position first.
Electricity should now be restored to the circuit. If the circuit breaker trips again before you have turned anything
on or plugged anything in, the breaker itself may need to be replaced or a serious wiring fault may exist.
Immediately consult a qualified electrician.
If the circuit breaker trips after plugging in or turning on a device, that device may have a short or may be placing
too much of a load on the circuit.
If no circuit breakers were tripped and you still do not have power at an outlet, there may be a wiring fault, the
outlet may be defective or it may be on circuit that is a GFCI controlled branch circuit. Refer to the guide for
checking a GFCI outlet.
How To Check a Fuse Box
How To Replace a Fuse
Located inside or outside of your home is a fuse box that contains a fuse for each of your home's circuits. A fuse
provides protection for each of your electrical circuits by stopping the flow of current if an overload or fault occurs.
When an electrical short occurs or the load on your circuit becomes too great, the fuse on that circuit burns out and
breaks the circuit; this is what is referred to as a "blown fuse." If your home uses circuit breakers instead of fuses,
click here.
Before electricity can be restored, the fuse must be replaced with a new fuse. However, even
before you replace the fuse, you must take steps to ensure that it is safe to do so. Turn off or
unplug all of the devices that are plugged into the circuit. Make certain that no dangerous condition exists before
restoring power.
Replace the fuse with a fuse that is of the proper rating for the circuit. For instance, if the circuit is rated for 15
amps, use a 15 amp fuse. Never use anything other than a fuse of proper rating.
When removing or inserting a new fuse, NEVER touch the metal parts of the fuse. If your fuse box is equipped
with a master switch to cut power to the fuse box, cut the main power prior to replacing the fuse.
Electricity should now be restored to the circuit. If the fuse blows again before you have turned anything on or
plugged anything in, a serious wiring fault may exist. Consult a qualified electrician immediately.
If the fuse blows after plugging in or turning on a device, that device may have a short or may be placing too much
of a load on the circuit.
If no fuses were blown and you still do not have power at an outlet, make certain that the switch, if any, that
controls the outlet is turned on. If you can find no problem, the outlet, switch, wiring or some other component
may be at fault. Also, the outlet may be on a GFCI branch circuit. Refer to the guide for checking a GFCI outlet.
How To Test an Outlet for Voltage
You can test an outlet to determine if current can flow with a voltage tester. Always test your test equipment for
proper operation before use. If you don't have a voltage tester, simply use a shop light or other convenient electrical
device. Start by making sure the tester is working and plug it into a circuit you know is working. Note that if you
need to test a 220V outlet, these instructions do not cover that test.
There are a variety of testers to choose from, the most basic is pictured below. It has two
probes, insert one into each slot and if voltage is present, it will light up. Be sure to test both
outlets, sometimes each is wired separately or only one of the two is working. To test whether the outlet is properly
grounded, follow this link to the article on grounding.
If there is no voltage, make certain that the outlet isn't controlled by a switch. Try all nearby switches and check
whether the tester lights up.
If you are troubleshooting an outlet that isn't working, some possibilities include:
 The fuse has blown or circuit breaker has tripped. Click on the following links for more information on
replacing fuses and resetting circuit breakers.
 The outlet may be in a circuit with a GFCI outlet (ground fault circuit interrupt). If the GFCI outlet has
tripped, it may cause other outlets on the same circuit to lose current. Look for an outlet that has a "Test"
and "Reset" button. They are often located near water such as in a bathroom or kitchen. If the outlet has
been tripped, unplug anything that may have caused the fault and then press the "Reset" button.
 A wire connection has become loose. A wiring fault can occur in many places, the most common include
the outlet box, another outlet or junction box the wire passes through or at the circuit breaker.
 Outlets can wear out, a replacement may be needed. See our article on How To Replace an Outlet.
How To Check an Electrical Cord
A device may cease to function or operate sporadically if the electrical cord is damaged. Inspect the cord for any of
the following damage.
Caution: Before inspecting a potentially damaged electrical cord, unplug it from the outlet, if it is safe to do
so. Otherwise turn off the power at the circuit breaker or fuse box.
 Is the wire shielding pulling away from the plug?
 Is the cord secure where it connects to the device?
 Are there black smudges or burn marks on the outlet, cord or anywhere the cord comes in contact?
 Are there cracks in the shielding or exposed wire?
 Has the cord been pinched or bent so that the wire inside may have broken?
If the answer to any of these questions is "yes", then the cord should be replaced.
How To Measure Outlet Voltage
To measure the voltage at an 120V electrical outlet requires the use of a multimeter. Always test your test
equipment for proper operation before use.
Working with live electrical current can be very hazardous. Testing voltage output requires working with
electrical current. Do not attempt this measurement without the proper tools and safeguards.
Set the multimeter to AC voltage. The markings may appear as VAC, AC V, or a V beneath a
wavy line. Choose the AC voltage closest to the voltage you will measure. Standard current in
home and businesses in the USA is in the range of 110 to 120 volts. Some circuits used for equipment such as
dryers, air conditioners, electric stoves, ovens and other large equipment may use voltage in the range of 220 to
240 volts. These heavy-duty circuits can be identified by their non-standard outlet plugs. These instructions do not
cover the method to test a 220V outlet.
While grasping the insulated portion of the probes (never touch the metal conductor during testing) place one probe
into each of the two terminals. The multimeter will display the voltage.
Carefully remove the probes, being careful not to touch the metal part of the probes to anything or each other.
The voltage should typically test in the range of 108 to 121 volts for most circuits. If voltage is higher or lower,
professional electrical service may be required.
How To Check the Temperature
In most refrigerator freezers, the refrigerator gets its cold from the freezer. The evaporator fan circulates air over
the coils in the freezer and cold air circulates into the refrigerator through vents. If the vents are blocked or closed,
then the fridge will not get cold enough but the freezer will. If neither is cold enough, then the number of
possibilities increases.
Lowering the freezer temperature will increase the cooling cycle activity. Setting the refrigerator temperature may
have little affect on the cooling cycles because it simply changes the vent opening size. Decreasing the fridge
temperature opens the vents more and increases air circulation from the freezer.
The temperature can be adjusted using the controls found inside the refrigerator or freezer. The ideal freezer
temperature is about 0 to 5 degrees (F) and about 38 degrees (F) for the fridge.
Measure the temperature by placing a cup of water with a cooking thermometer into the refrigerator for about 2
hours or more. To test the freezer, substitute alcohol or cooking oil.
How To Clean the Condensor Coils
The condensor coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be
able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor.
Before cleaning the condensor coils, unplug the refrigerator to avoid a shock hazard.
Rear-Mounted Coils
You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy,
never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant.
Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to
spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.
Floor Level Coils
You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush
the coils.
Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust
and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it
does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.
How To Test the Temperature Control
Most refrigerator-freezers have a control that adjusts the operation of the cooling system of the freezer only. In
such appliances, any control for the refrigerator is simply a mechanical system of opening or closing vents between
the refrigerator and freezer to let in more or less cold air.
Before testing the control, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
Remove the temperature control dial or housing. Pull the dial straight away from the wall. Remove the temperature
control. If there is a housing, it either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently
depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring.
Continued from page 1
The control will be connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the control before disconnecting the
wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connector (do not pull on the
wire) off of the control's terminal. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors.
Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Test the control for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each
terminal. Turn the control to warmest setting or off. The multitester should display a reading of infinity. If the
control does not have an off position, the reading should be near the infinity end of the scale. Now change the
control to the coldest setting and retest. The display should read zero ohms. If the control does not pass both of
these tests, the switch should be replaced.
If there is a separate control for the freezer and refrigerator, test the other control in the same way.
How To Test the Evaporator Fan
The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the
contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer.
Before testing the fan, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips
with a small screwdriver.
Remove any screws that secure the fan or fan housing so that you can access the fan's wiring. Typically two screws
secure the mounting bracket in place (labeled "A" below). It may be easier to remove the entire rear panel if the
mounting brackets screws are inaccessible.
The fan is connected by two or three wires. Label the wire placement on the fan before disconnecting the wires.
The wires are connected to the fan with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connector off (do not pull on the wire)
of the fan's terminal. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the
connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Spin the fan blade, it should move smoothly and freely. If the movement is not smooth, the motor should be
replaced.
Test the fan for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each
terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the fan does not pass this test, it should be
replaced.
How To Test the Defrost Timer
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the freezer. In older models, the timer runs continuously
and roughly every six hours, cuts power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer
models the timer advances only while the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency.
As the timer continues to advance, power to the heating element is cut and power is restored to the cooling system.
If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in,
respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a
cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the
compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until
you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait
about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If
it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it
should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far
enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and
right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be
replaced in only one way.
Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four
terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine
which terminal coincides with the white wire in the connector plug.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three
remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates
continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no
continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One
pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity.
Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that
read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be
replaced.
* We have received two reports of cases in which only one pair of terminals shows continuity and when the timer
is advanced, the same pair still shows continuity. For these isolated cases, this was reported to be the correct
operation of the timer. At this time we have not been able verify this case. This may indicate a specific model or
models that use a different wiring configuration than discussed in this article. Also, note that this article applies to
mechanical defrost timer controls and not electronic or adaptive defrost controls.
How To Test the Compressor Relay
The compressor relay's purpose is to start the compressor. A faulty relay can result in the compressor failing to
cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. In the photo below the compressor is labeled
"A", the relay is located in the terminal box which is located at the position labeled "B".
Before testing a compressor relay, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Also, if the
compressor uses a capacitor, it must be discharged first to avoid the risk of electrical shock.
The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with
a retaining clip.
Beneath the terminal cover is found the compressor relay (labeled "A" below), overload protector (labeled "B") and
the electrical terminals of the compressor motor.
Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor.
Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the
connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire
coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment
for testing.
Test the compressor relay for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M". The multitester should
display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up).
With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The
multitester should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up).
Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L".
The multitester should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should
change to infinity.
With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M".
The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero
ohms.
If the compressor relay does not pass all of these tests, it should be replaced.
How To Test the Overload Protector
The overload protector is designed to protect the compressor motor from damage. The location of the overload
protector is with the start relay on or near the compressor. The compressor is found at the lower rear of the freezer,
with the exception of the high-end, built in style refrigerator-freezers on which the compressor is usually on top.
Before testing the compressor motor, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Also, if the
compressor uses a capacitor, it may contain a lethal electrical charge. Do not touch the terminals until you have
discharged the capacitor.
The overload protector is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor is labeled "A", the
overload protector is located in the terminal box which is located at the position labeled "B".
The overload protector can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or
with a retaining clip.
The overload protector (labeled "B" below) is connected by two wires. One wire connects to the compressor relay
(labeled "A") with a slip-on connector. Pull the connector firmly off of the relay terminal (do not pull on the wire).
You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connector. Inspect the connector for corrosion. If
the connector is corroded it should be replaced.
The overload protector is held in place with a round spring clip. Using a screwdriver, pry open the spring clip and
remove the overload protector.
Test the overload protector for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the overload protector
does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
How To Test the Compressor Motor
The compressor uses mechanical force to compress the refrigerant gas into a high pressure state. As the gas passes
through the coils it dissipates heat and then passes through an expansion valve in the freezer. The gases changes to
a low pressure state and consequently drops in temperature. Inside the freezer the fan moves air over the cool coils
whcih absorb heat and carry it back out of the freezer. The compressor is accessed from the lower rear of the
refrigerator. The compressor is labeled "A", the terminal box is located at the position labeled "B".
The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or
with a retaining clip.
Before testing the compressor motor, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Also, if the
compressor uses a capacitor, it may contain a lethal electric charge. Do not touch the terminals until you have
discharged the capacitor.
Beneath the terminal cover is found the compressor relay (labeled "A" below), overload protector (labeled "B") and
the electrical terminals of the compressor motor.
Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor.
Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the
connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and
terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Test the compressor motor for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multitester
should display a reading of zero ohms.
Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally,
move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should
have continuity with the multitester displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests,
the compressor will require professional service.
Now test the compressor for ground. With the multitester still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the
compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe
to each of the three terminals in turn.
None of the terminals should have continuity; the multitester should display a reading of infinity. If any of the
grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.
How To Test the Door Switch
The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is
closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off (yes, it really does) and the fan resumes normal
operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the
non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light.
Before testing the switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
Locate the switch and remove it by removing the retaining screw (if any) or by prying it with a putty knife. Place a
piece of masking tape over the blade of the putty knife to prevent damage to the refrigerator. Gently pull the switch
from its housing and expose an inch or two of wire.
The switch will be connected by two wires (four wires if it controls additional features). Label the wire placement
on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip on connectors. Firmly
pull the connector off of the switch terminal (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose
pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are
corroded they should be replaced.
Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each
terminal. The multitester should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals.
With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it
does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
If there are four terminals, touch the probe to one terminal and then test each of the other three terminals with the
other probe one at a time. Touching one of the three terminals should cause the multitester reading to change from
infinity to zero. Those two terminals are a pair. Depress the switch with the probes still touching the terminals and
the reading should change back to infinity. Now test the other two terminals. If either pair of terminals fails the
continuity test, the switch should be replaced.
How to Check the Airflow
Best cooling results are achieved when the air is free to circulate around items stored in the refrigerator or freezer.
When items are packed closely together, the air cools the outermost items but the items in the center will not be
thoroughly cooled; at least not quickly. Cool air never reaches the center items and they cannot be properly chilled.
Make sure that air can flow over and between the shelves as well as over the items stored there. Overfilling the
refrigerator or freezer will result in inefficient and inadequate cooling.
An underfilled refrigerator also will not cool as effectively. The things you store in the refrigerator and freezer
have thermal mass. Once they cool down, they have a tendency to stay cool. When you open the door, the cold air
spills out and is replaced with room temperature air. However, all the food remains cold. Because the food takes up
space that would otherwise be filled with air, there is less work to be done to cool the refrigerator back to its
storage tmeperature. The more items stored in the refrigerator, the less air space that must be chilled after each time
the door is opened. This is true up to the point where there is not enough space for air to flow.
How to Check the Airflow Restrictions
The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the
vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators
the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative
resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.
Before checking for airflow restrictions, unplug the refrigerator or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker
panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may
be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use
a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip
onto the hair dryer.
In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is
held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow
the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some
freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.
Safety Information
Do not attempt to adjust, test or make a repair if you do not have basic repair skills or if you do not fully
understand the directions provided in this web site, through the "Ask the Expert" service, by ACME PARTS.com,
Inc. or its affiliates. Furthermore, if your appliance, device, project, object of repair or its components differ from
those described, you should not attempt the repair based upon the provided instructions. If the manufacturer's
instructions differ from ours, always follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Always wear eye protection and protective clothing or gear, as appropriate.
Electric Shock can cause injury or death. Never assume the electricity is off. Before servicing an
electrical device, disconnect it from its electrical source either by unplugging the appliance or turning off the power
at the breaker or fuse box. Mark the service panel with a note so that no one will restore power while you are
working. After turning off the power to the circuit, test the circuit to be certain that there is no power. Some
devices can store a hazardous electrical charge even when disconnected from an electrical source, always discharge
these devices before attempting service. If you are unfamiliar with a device or its components, consult with a
professional before attempting service.
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Most refrigerator-freezers have a control that adjusts the operation of the cooling system of the freezer only. In
such appliances, any control for the refrigerator is simply a mechanical system of opening or closing vents between
the refrigerator and freezer to let in more or less cold air.
Before testing the control, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
Remove the temperature control dial or housing. Pull the dial straight away from the wall. Remove the temperature
control. If there is a housing, it either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently
depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring.
The control will be connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the control before disconnecting the
wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connector (do not pull on the
wire) off of the control's terminal. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors.
Test the control for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each
terminal. Turn the control to warmest setting or off. The multitester should display a reading of infinity. If the
control does not have an off position, the reading should be near the infinity end of the scale. Now change the
control to the coldest setting and retest. The display should read zero ohms. If the control does not pass both of
these tests, the switch should be replaced.
If there is a separate control for the freezer and refrigerator, test the other control in the same way.
How To Clean the Condensor Coils
The condensor coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be
able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor.
Before cleaning the condensor coils, unplug the refrigerator to avoid a shock hazard.
Rear-Mounted Coils
You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy,
never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant.
Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to
spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.
Floor Level Coils
You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush
the coils.
Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust
and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it
does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.
How To Check The Refrigerator Door Seals
The door to the refrigerator has a flexible seal that prevents cold air from escaping when the door is closed. The
seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely,
warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of
the appliance to maintain proper temperature.
To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator
and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal.
You should also inspect the door seal for cracking or a lack of flexibility.
If the door seal does not seal properly, the door may need to be realigned or the seal replaced. Also, the door seal
should be periodically cleaned to aid in the prevention of odors and to maintain the seal's flexibility.
ow To Test the Door Switch
The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is
closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off (yes, it really does) and the fan resumes normal
operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the
non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light.
Before testing the switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
Locate the switch and remove it by removing the retaining screw (if any) or by prying it with a putty knife. Place a
piece of masking tape over the blade of the putty knife to prevent damage to the refrigerator. Gently pull the switch
from its housing and expose an inch or two of wire.
The switch will be connected by two wires (four wires if it controls additional features). Label the wire placement
on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip on connectors. Firmly
pull the connector off of the switch terminal (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose
pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are
corroded they should be replaced.
Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each
terminal. The multitester should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals.
With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it
does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
If there are four terminals, touch the probe to one terminal and then test each of the other three terminals with the
other probe one at a time. Touching one of the three terminals should cause the multitester reading to change from
infinity to zero. Those two terminals are a pair. Depress the switch with the probes still touching the terminals and
the reading should change back to infinity. Now test the other two terminals. If either pair of terminals fails the
continuity test, the switch should be replaced.
How To Test the Defrost Heater
The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will
be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves and icemaker to get to the
heater.
Before testing the defrost heater, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a
small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer
floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky - never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk
- it is prone to breakage. Warm it first with a warm, wet bath towel this will make it less brittle and a little more
pliable.
There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape
or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.
The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors
off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the
connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be
replaced.
Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe
on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the
number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't
be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced.
You may get a reading between those extremes and the element may still be bad, you can only be certain if you
know the correct rating of your element. If you can find the schematic, you may be able to determine the proper
resistance rating. Also, inspect the element as it may be labeled.
How To Test the Defrost Timer
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the freezer. In older models, the timer runs continuously
and roughly every six hours, cuts power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer
models the timer advances only while the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency.
As the timer continues to advance, power to the heating element is cut and power is restored to the cooling system.
If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in,
respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a
cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the
compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until
you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait
about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If
it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it
should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far
enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and
right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be
replaced in only one way.
Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four
terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine
which terminal coincides with the white wire in the connector plug.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three
remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates
continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no
continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One
pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity.
Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that
read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be
replaced.
* We have received two reports of cases in which only one pair of terminals shows continuity and when the timer
is advanced, the same pair still shows continuity. For these isolated cases, this was reported to be the correct
operation of the timer. At this time we have not been able verify this case. This may indicate a specific model or
models that use a different wiring configuration than discussed in this article. Also, note that this article applies to
mechanical defrost timer controls and not electronic or adaptive defrost controls.
The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the
contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer.
Before testing the fan, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips
with a small screwdriver.
Remove any screws that secure the fan or fan housing so that you can access the fan's wiring. Typically two screws
secure the mounting bracket in place (labeled "A" below). It may be easier to remove the entire rear panel if the
mounting brackets screws are inaccessible.
The fan is connected by two or three wires. Label the wire placement on the fan before disconnecting the wires.
The wires are connected to the fan with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connector off (do not pull on the wire)
of the fan's terminal. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the
connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Spin the fan blade, it should move smoothly and freely. If the movement is not smooth, the motor should be
replaced.
Test the fan for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each
terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the fan does not pass this test, it should be
replaced.
How To Clear the Drain Tube
Your refrigerator has a drain that leads to the exterior drain pan beneath the refrigerator. Occasionally this drain
can become clogged resulting in standing water inside your refrigerator. A similar drain exists in the freezer, which
when clogged results in ice build up on the floor of the freezer.
Caution: Before clearing the drain tube, unplug the refrigerator or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker
panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The drain is located either on the floor of the refrigerator, beneath the vegetable crisper, or in the wall behind a
drain funnel.
Clear the drain by forcing a solution of water and bleach or water and baking soda into it with a basting syringe. If
the solution will not flow through, slide a length of 1/4 inch or smaller flexible tubing into the drain tube to push
the clog through to the drain pan. Remove the tubing after clearing the clog.
How To Deal with a Refrigerant Leak
A refrigerant leak can cause a freezer to fail to get cold enough; however, leaks are very uncommon. Also, unlike
some automobile air conditioners, it is never necessary to "top off" the refrigerant. The refrigeration system is a
closed system and the addition of refrigerant is rarely called for.
Most gases used as refrigerants pose health risks if inhaled. If you suspect a refrigerant leak, provide adequate
ventilation and contact a qualified service technician.
Never attempt to chip away ice in your freezer. Even the slightest nick of the cooling coils can result in a very
expensive repair or even the total loss of your appliance.
A refrigerant leak can be repaired only by a qualified service technician. If you have ruled out all other possible
causes, have a technician inspect your freezer.
In theory, if you can locate the leak, a cold weather epoxy seal could be used to patch the hole. However, these
patches will often fail after only a year or two. Once a patch is made, then the system must be recharged with
refrigerant. Recharging the system can only be done by a qualified technician.
Leveling a Refrigerator
It is important for the refrigerator to be level. If it is not level, doors may not open or close properly and may not
seal tightly. Also, drainage from the defrost cycle might be impaired as might the ice making cycle. The appliance
was engineered based on it being installed in a level position. While there may be some tolerance for out-of-level
installation, the appliance will operate at its best when properly leveled.
Before leveling, unplug the appliance to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Never tip a refrigerator or freezer, it is
very heavy and can fall causing damage or injury.
Place a level on top of the refrigerator near the front. Do not put it on the door because the door may not be aligned
with the refrigerator case. Check that the refrigerator is level from side to side. Next turn the level to check that it is
level from front to back.
If it is not level, adjust one or more of the adjustable leveling feet until it is level. The feet are bolts that can be
turned to raise or lower the refrigerator. If they cannot be adjusted with your fingers, use a crescent wrench or
pliers.
If you have an ice-maker, it should also be checked for level after first leveling the refrigerator. An icemaker that is
out of level will spill water into the ice bin or into the freezer. It can be repositioned by loosening the mounting
screws, adjusting it for level and then retightening the screws.
How To Clean or Adjust the Drain Pan
The drain pan should be removed and cleaned every year or so. The drain pan is located at the bottom of the
refrigerator behind the front grill. Remove the grill, which snaps into place. Grasp the drain pan while pulling
slightly upward and forward.
Caution: Before removing the drain pan, unplug the refrigerator or shut off the power at the fuse box or
breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
Clean the pan with warm soapy water or warm water and baking soda.
If the pan rattles when it is replaced, it is too close to the compressor, simply reposition the tray.
How To Test the Condensor Fan
The condensor fan is located behind the refrigerator and blows air over the condensor coils, although not all
refrigerators use a condensor fan. The condensor fan is important for transfering away heat from the coils. Without
a working condensor fan, it is more difficult for the coils to shed heat and may result in poor cooling in the
refrigerator/freezer.
Before testing the condensor fan, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
In order to access the condensor fan, it may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. Start by cleaning
the fan of any dust or debris. If the fan blade is damaged, it can be removed from the fan motor shaft and should be
replaced.
Spin the fan blade, it should move smoothly and freely. If the fan does not move smoothly, replace the fan motor.
If the fan motor cannot be accessed for testing, remove the motor now. The fan motor is held in place with screws
and possibly a mounting bracket. Remove the bracket and the screws and pull the motor back away from the
housing.
How To Test the Condensor Fan
The fan motor is connected by two or three wires. Label the wire placement on the motor before disconnecting the
wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip-on connectors or a plug. Firmly pull the connectors off of
the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors.
Test the fan motor for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on
each terminal. In the photo below there are three terminals, the middle one is for ground and does not need to be
tested. The multitester should display a reading approximately mid-way between infinity and zero ohms. If the
motor does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Page 2 of 2
How to Remove the Breaker Strips
The breaker strips are located just inside the front of the refrigerator case, near where the door seal makes contact.
If the breaker strips are warped or cracked, they may allow moisture to get into the insulation between the inner
and outer walls of the refrigerator.
Before removing the breaker strips, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
To remove the breaker strips it is important to bring them up to room temperature first. If they are too cold they
will be brittle and may crack. To warm the strips you can open the freezer and allow it to come up to room
temperature (wait 2 to 4 hours) or you can soak a towel in warm water and hold it against the strips to warm them.
How to Remove the Breaker Strips
continued from page 1
Determine whether anything must be removed (such as the control console) before the breaker strips can be
removed. Attempt to remove the strip by pulling it away from the refrigerator case. If that does not work, gently
slide a putty knife under the strip. Instead of prying the strip (which may damage the case or strip) slide the knife
along the seam, rocking it where necessary to separate the strip. Some breaker strips are held in place with a
sealant, which will have to be cut with a utility knife.
If the insulation is damp or has an unpleasant odor, leave the strip off to allow the insulation to dry. You may
alternatively use a hair dryer set on low to dry the insulation.
Replace the breaker strip using a food grade sealant as necessary.
How To Check the Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn
it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet
valve in place.
Before testing the water inlet valve, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before
disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the
connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to
remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they
should be replaced.
How To Check the Water Inlet Valve

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up
using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve
(the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if
available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a
reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm
resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Also refer to our Icemaker section for more information.
Leveling a Refrigerator
It is important for the refrigerator to be level. If it is not level, doors may not open or close properly and may not
seal tightly. Also, drainage from the defrost cycle might be impaired as might the ice making cycle. The appliance
was engineered based on it being installed in a level position. While there may be some tolerance for out-of-level
installation, the appliance will operate at its best when properly leveled.
Before leveling, unplug the appliance to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Never tip a refrigerator or freezer, it is
very heavy and can fall causing damage or injury.
Place a level on top of the refrigerator near the front. Do not put it on the door because the door may not be aligned
with the refrigerator case. Check that the refrigerator is level from side to side. Next turn the level to check that it is
level from front to back.
If it is not level, adjust one or more of the adjustable leveling feet until it is level. The feet are bolts that can be
turned to raise or lower the refrigerator. If they cannot be adjusted with your fingers, use a crescent wrench or
pliers.
If you have an ice-maker, it should also be checked for level after first leveling the refrigerator. An icemaker that is
out of level will spill water into the ice bin or into the freezer. It can be repositioned by loosening the mounting
screws, adjusting it for level and then retightening the screws.

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Guide

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Refrigerator Troubleshooting Guide

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Refrigerator Troubleshooting Guide

Refrigerator does not run but  Check the temperature setting

Refrigerator light does not  Replace the bulb

Refrigerator or freezer is not  Check the temperature setting

Refrigerator or freezer is too  Check the temperature setting

Refrigerator runs continuously  Defrost the freezer

Refrigerator starts and stops  Clean the condensor coils

Freezer does not defrost  Test the defrost timer

Refrigerator has an unpleasant  Remove spoiled food

Water on floor outside of  Check the drain pan

Water inside the refrigerator  Clean the drain tube

How to Reset a Circuit Breaker

How To Check a Fuse Box

How To Replace a Fuse

How To Test an Outlet for Voltage

How To Check an Electrical Cord

 Is the wire shielding pulling away from the plug?

 Is the cord secure where it connects to the device?

How To Measure Outlet Voltage

How To Check the Temperature

Floor Level Coils

How To Test the Temperature Control

How To Test the Temperature Control

Continued from page 1

How To Test the Evaporator Fan

Continued from page 1

How To Test the Defrost Timer

How To Test the Compressor Relay

How To Test the Compressor Relay

Continued from page 1

How To Test the Compressor Relay

Continued from page 1

How To Test the Overload Protector

How To Test the Overload Protector

Continued from page 1

How To Test the Overload Protector

Continued from page 1

Continued from page 1

How To Test the Compressor Motor

Continued from page 2

How To Test the Door Switch

How To Test the Door Switch

Continued from page 1

How to Check the Airflow

How to Check the Airflow Restrictions

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REVIEWS AND COMMENTS

Acme Parts.com, Inc.

How To Test the Temperature Control

Continued from page 1

How To Clean the Condensor Coils

Floor Level Coils

How To Check The Refrigerator Door Seals

ow To Test the Door Switch

Continued from page 1

How To Test the Defrost Heater

How To Test the Defrost Timer

How To Test the Evaporator Fan

Continued from page 1

How To Clear the Drain Tube

How To Deal with a Refrigerant Leak

How To Check the Temperature

How To Clean or Adjust the Drain Pan