Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Blackwell Publishing
O R I GInc
INAL CONTRIBUTION
Summary Background Cosmeceuticals provide a new therapeutic frontier for anti-aging in derma-
tology. The most dramatic signs of cutaneous aging include the lack of skin surface regu-
larity, the formation of rhagades, and the increased presence of dyspigmentation.
Background The objective of this review is to illustrate how these three needs of maturing
skin can be met by novel ingredients incorporated into carefully constructed formula-
tions designed to deliver scientifically measurable and visibly noticeable improvement.
Conclusion Skin surface irregularity can be improved through increased skin turnover
facilitated by topical niacinamide, while the appearance of fine lines can be diminished
through the application of moisturizers containing engineered peptides and over-the-
counter retinoids, such as retinyl propionate. Finally, skin pigmentation can become
more regular with the topical application of N-acetyl glucosamine and ultraviolet A
photoprotective ingredients. Furthermore, combining cosmeceutical ingredients in a
moisturizing vehicle can magnify benefits and profoundly improve skin appearance.
Keywords: cosmetics, skin aging, skin physiology
Skin texture
Correspondence: Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, 2444 North Main Street, High The inevitable growth of benign neoplasms on the skin
Point, NC 27262. E-mail: zdraelos@northstate.net surface cannot be eliminated with current cosmeceutical
Wrinkling
reflects (scatters) UV radiation and is extremely photostable. N-acetyl glucosamine (Fig. 5b) increases the skin appearance
The photoprotective abilities of zinc oxide can be increased benefit.10,14
by coating the particles with silicone, creating a filter that
can prevent the formation of both primary and secondary
Summary
oxygen radicals. The aesthetics of zinc oxide have been
optimized by using microfine particles that do not appear The three major areas for appearance improvement in
white when placed on the skin surface. Photoprotection photoaged skin are texture, wrinkling, and dyspigmentation.
is an important consideration for the treatment of facial Evidence-based cosmeceutical ingredients can provide
dyspigmentation. these anti-aging benefits. The best results are achieved by
carefully combining compatible ingredients in an optimized
moisturizing vehicle to create a multifunctional product.
Combining cosmeceutical ingredients
The vehicle must be constructed to provide the immediate
Combining cosmeceuticals with different mechanisms of benefits of preventing TEWL by occlusion and enhancing
action in an optimized moisturizing vehicle can increase humectancy while creating a smooth tactile surface.
the magnitude of skin anti-aging benefits. For example, These conditions are conducive to barrier repair, which
combining niacinamide with pal-KTTKS (Fig. 5a) or can be enhanced by niacinamide and synthetic peptides.
Other ingredients, such as retinoids and N-acetylglucosamine,
can be added to provide the long-term benefits of increased
skin thickness and improved dyspigmentation. Finally,
UVA photoprotection can be provided with oxybenzone,
avobenzone, ecamsule, or zinc oxide to prevent further
signs of aging. This new generation of efficacious cosme-
ceuticals can provide valuable skin benefits.
References
1 Matts PJ, Oblong JE, Bisset DL. A review of the range of
effects of niacinamide in human skin. Int Fed Soc Cosmet
Chem Mag 2002; 5: 285–9.
2 Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Saud A et al. Topical niacinamide
provides skin aging appearance benefits while enhancing
barrier function. J Clin Dermatol 2003; 32S: 9–18.
3 Draelos ZD, Ertel K, Berge C. Niacinamide-containing facial
moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with
rosacea. Cutis 2005; 76: 135–41.
4 Katayama K, Armendariz-Borunda J, Raghow R et al.
A pentapeptide from type I procollagen promotes
extracellular matrix production. J Biol Chem 1993; 268:
9941–4.
5 Robinson LR, Fitzgerald NC, Doughty DG et al. Topical
palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged
human facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci 2005; 27: 155– 60.
6 Lintner K, Mas-Chamberlin C, Mondon P. Pentapeptide
facilitates matrix regeneration of photoaged skin.
Ann Dermatol Venereol 2002; 129: 1S401.
7 Gendimenico GJ, Mezick JA. Pharmacological effects of
retinoids on skin cells. Skin Pharmacol 1993; 6S: 24–34.
8 Kang S, Duell EA, Fisher GJ et al. Application of retinol to
human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and
Figure 5 (a) Topical application of niacinamide in combination cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic
with pal-KTTKS increases the wrinkle reduction effect. (b) Topical acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels of
application of N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) in combination with irritation. J Invest Dermatol 1995; 105: 549–56.
niacinamide in Caucasian subjects increases the spot reduction 9 Fluhr JW, Vienne MP, Lauze C et al. Tolerance profile of
effect. retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid under maximized
and long-term clinical conditions. Dermatology 1999; tyrosinases in melanoma cells following interrupted
199S: 57–60. melanogenesis induced by glycosylation inhibitors.
10 Bissett DL. Anti-aging skin care formulations. In: J Invest Dermatol 1985; 85: 165–8.
ZD Draelos, LA Thaman, eds. Cosmetic Formulation of Skin 13 Bissett DL, McPhail SJ, Farmer TL et al. Topical N-acetyl
Care Products. Boca Raton, FL: Taylor & Francis Group; glucosamine affects pigmentation-relevant genes in
2006: 167–86. in vitro genomics testing. Pigment Cell Res 2006; 19:
11 Bissett DL. Glucosamine: an ingredient with skin and other 373.
benefits. J Cosmet Dermatol 2006; 5: 309–15. 14 Bissett DL, Robinson LR, Raleigh PS, Miyamoto K,
12 Imokawa G, Mishima Y. Analysis of tyrosinases as Hakozaki T, Li J, Kelm GR. Reduction in the appearance of
asparagin-linked oligosaccharides by conanavalin facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-acetyl glucosamine.
A lectin chromatography: appearance of new segment of J Cosmet Dermatol 2007; 6: 20–6.