Professional Documents
Culture Documents
C O M - 0 2 0 717 2 017 2
CONTENTS
Regulars
51 Editor’s letter
65 Notices
Behind the scenes of the issue
142 Forces for Change
Labour MP Diane Abbott. Interview
by Nosheen Iqbal. Portraits by Misan
Harriman. Styling by Donna Wallace
154 Checklist
Rediscover fashion’s rebellious side
250 Stockists
Vogue trends
“Peak
76 Personnel style
How to organise your office wardrobe
practicality
is having
78 Decked out
Introducing the raddest skater denim a moment
81 Take it easy as fashion’s
Laid-back midi-dresses favourites
82 Bold comfort serve high-
Snuggle up in a look-at-me fleece performance
85 Hybrid theory fleece in
Coats: come rain or come shine
style”
86 Step change
AMIT ISRAELI
Bold comfort,
The best boots in town page 82
91 Vogue darling
Actor Lou Llobell
33
Tiffany.com | © 2021 T&CO.
About Love
CONTENTS
40
Subscribe to Turn to page 172 for our fantastic subscription offer, plus free gift
B e e M y L ov e C o l l e c t i o n
E M B R AC E YO U R L I G H T
EAU DE PARFUM
chanel.com
Sweet Alhambra watch
Rose gold, white mother-of-pearl
and diamonds.
It is to be expected. Uncertainty will be our beaches and volcanos – how fabulous! – for a
companion for a while longer and the memory fantasia that mixes high wearability with more
of – and potential for more – time cooped up than a dash of high drama for the autumn
inside is as yet unshaken. That said, for those ahead. Meanwhile, on page 226, > 54
who can make it out into the world, the
seduction of the great outdoors – and how to
dress for it – feels very real.
Typically,
Accordingly, this issue has a happy emphasis
on roaming far and free. The first stop is Los
Angeles, where Zendaya, queen of the Zoomers,
classic autumn-
director Denis Villeneuve’s updated adaptation
of the epic sci-fi novel, in which she will star
alongside Timothée Chalamet and Javier
51
EDITOR’S LETTER
model Paloma Elsesser travels to Upstate New countryside, and offers easy access to her
York to embody the slow chic and peaceful calm horses. It certainly feels like a dream 2021 setup.
of a perfect weekend in the country. Lastly, on page 220, we meet tennis’s newest
On page 190, we head south to Manhattan, star, Emma Raducanu. After a spellbinding
to hit the streets to photograph some of the Wimbledon earlier this year, in which she
city’s coolest couples in a Michael Kors became the first British woman to get to the
extravaganza, while writer Lynn Yaeger speaks fourth round during her debut in almost half
to the designer himself. a century, the charismatic teen from Kent is
Back on these shores, model and equestrian the name on everyone’s lips. In her first
Edie Campbell invites us in for an exclusive interview since the championships, she talks
look around her new Northamptonshire home, talent, drive and – crucially – how we need to
on page 242. Built from scratch, with her evolve our attitudes to mental health in sport.
mother Sophie Hicks as architect, it stands At 18, and only at the start of her career, one
JUSTIN FRENCH; DAN MARTENSEN; SCOTT TRINDLE
between two lakes on a patch of gorgeous thing is certain: Emma is going to travel far.
54
Introducing
THE GET
VOGUE.CO.UK
EXECUTIVE DIGITAL EDITOR KERRY Mc DERMOTT
SENIOR DIGITAL NEWS EDITOR ALICE NEWBOLD
WEEKEND & PLANNING EDITOR HAYLEY MAITLAND
AUDIENCE GROWTH MANAGER ALYSON LOWE
MISS VOGUE EDITOR NAOMI PIKE
STAFF WRITER SUSAN DEVANEY
DIGITAL FASHION WRITER ALICE CARY
NETWORK EDITOR ELLE TIMMS
AUDIENCE GROWTH EXECUTIVE ELEANOR DAVIES
SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR LEXXI DUFFY SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANT HANNAH DALY
SENIOR VIDEO PRODUCER & COMMISSIONER MINNIE J CARVER
VIDEO EDITOR & POST-PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR JESSICA VINCENT
DIGITAL PICTURE EDITOR & CONTENT PRODUCER PARVEEN NAROWALIA
COMMERCE WRITER HUMAA HUSSAIN
DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE ALEC MAXWELL
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
ADWOA ABOAH, RIZ AHMED, LAURA BAILEY, SUSAN BENDER WHITFIELD, SINEAD BURKE, LAURA BURLINGTON, VASSI CHAMBERLAIN,
ALEXA CHUNG, MICHAELA COEL, RONNIE COOKE NEWHOUSE, JOURDAN DUNN, TANIA FARES, ALEXANDER GILKES, AFUA HIRSCH, PARIS LEES,
PATRICK MACKIE, STEVE McQUEEN, JIMMY MOFFAT, KATE MOSS, SARAH MOWER, ROBIN MUIR, DURO OLOWU, LORRAINE PASCALE, ELLIE PITHERS,
HARRIET QUICK, ELIZABETH SALTZMAN, NONA SUMMERS, DANA THOMAS, EMMA WEYMOUTH, CAROL WOOLTON, HIKARI YOKOYAMA
EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICE AND SUPPORT TEAM LEAD EMMA COX
VP VOGUE BRAND REVENUE & ACTING LEAD COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR MICHIEL STEUR
Vogue is a member of the Independent Press Standards Organisation (which regulates the UK’s magazine and newspaper industry). We abide by the Editors’ Code of Practice (www.ipso.co.uk/editors-code-
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on the Contact Us page of our website or contact us at complaints@condenast.co.uk or by post to Complaints, Editorial Business Department, The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover
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NOW
HEAR THIS
If you’re going
to cross one thing
off your to-do list,
THE 24/7 make sure it’s never
OUTFIT losing your AirPods
again. Tapper’s
Take your cue necklace case will
from Gabriela keep them safe, and
Hearst: cream won’t compromise
trousers go with your jewellery box.
anything, but
look particularly
good slipped
under a black
BOSS MOVES
silk dress. Whip
them off at Prada’s powder-blue Galleria tote
the end of the is as good a reason as any to return
working day and to the office. With its timeless,
GABRIELA HEARST
BOTTOMS UP
Personnel
Above, from left: For IRL meetings,
bag, from £1,800, turn your attention
Prada. AirPod
back to the long-
STYLE
necklace case, from
£210, Tapper, neglected bottom half
at Flannels of your outfit and
switch out sweatpants
for tailored trousers.
Shoes,
£395, Neous
Redefine hot-desking
NEXT STEPS with these strategies for
Neous’s comfortable, sleek leather slippers working the new season.
have enough style credibility to take you
to a face-to-face meeting in a flash.
Photographs by
Amit Israeli
COURREGES
THE
BLAZER TRAIL LONG GAME
Nothing puts in A floor-sweeping,
ATLEIN
76
TRENDS
Edited by Naomi Smart
Styled by Jack Borkett
HAIR: RAMONA ESCHBACH. MAKE-UP: SATOKO WATANABE. NAILS: SYLVIE VACCA. PRODUCTION: WA PARIS. MODEL: LULU TENNEY.
SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT. LUCA TOMBOLINI; PIXELATE.BIZ
BOOK SMART
Layered cardigans
and an A-line skirt
needn’t read librarian
– mix and match
patterns and prints
for an offbeat take
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77
ALBERTA FERRETTI
ROKH
£310, Bite
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CHANEL
Decked
OUT
Skater-inspired slouchy
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78
AMIT ISRAELI; ALBERTO MADDALONI/IDI.SHOW; PIXELATE.BIZ
79
TRENDS
Dress, from £1,590,
TRENDS
Ellery. Boots, £775,
Maison Margiela.
Socks, £18, Falke.
Earring, £330, sold
Dress DOWN
as a pair, D’heygere.
Ring, from £2,050,
Kim Mee Hye
Take it
Earrings, £90,
Pandora. Tote, £345,
Russell & Bromley
EASY
Make the most
of your weekend
wardrobe with
a relaxed, do-it-
all midi-dress
Dresses: from far left, £2,300, Khaite.
£385, Vince. £850, Molly Goddard.
From £330, Ulla Johnson
AMIT ISRAELI; PIXELATE.BIZ
81
Jacket, £3,800,
Louis Vuitton &
Fornasetti. Top,
£550. Trousers,
Bold
£1,200. Both
Louis Vuitton
COMFORT
Peak practicality is having
a moment as fashion’s
favourites serve high-
performance fleece in style
82
TRENDS
Left, from top: £160, Stüssy, at Goodhood.
£626, Chopova Lowena, at Dover Street Market.
Below: £178, Palace. Right: £1,600, Loewe
Hoodie, £360,
Aries. Beige hat,
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Green hat,
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WEAR with
AMIT ISRAELI; PIXELATE.BIZ
83
TRENDS
CHLOE
SACAI
Hybrid
THEORY
Whatever the weather,
the new outerwear has
you covered
B
ritain isn’t a place renowned for
predictable weather. Lucky, then,
that designers are making our
lives easier with an array of hybrid
outerwear. From Max Mara’s reversible
70th-anniversary edition of its teddy coat
to Longchamp’s leather and gaberdine
Reversible coat,
£2,715. Skirt, trench, you need never panic about the
£1,025. Gloves, sudden onset of rain again. Olivia Singer
£115. All Max Mara.
Scarf, £415, Frant Below, from left: £2,650, Maison Margiela, at
Isaksson. Mules, Matchesfashion.com. From £1,160, Rokh,
£350, Rejina Pyo at Shopbop.com. £2,990, Alexander McQueen,
at Matchesfashion.com. £1,485, Longchamp
AMIT ISRAELI; FILIPPO FIOR/IMAXTREE.COM; PIXELATE.BIZ
85
TRENDS
THE
WALKING
BOOT
The past 18 months
have taught us
the benefits of the
great outdoors.
It’s clearly filtered
into fashion.
From THE
far left:
£1,190, RIDING
Fendi.
£1,420,
BOOT
Louis
Vuitton.
Polished and
Right: severe, they’ll
£645, Dear have you looking
Frances
whip-smart.
GUCCI
86
Step
change
From equestrian
knee-highs to hiking
styles, here is your
seasonal directory of
the best boots around
Dress, from £3,080,
The Row. Boots, £1,190,
Miu Miu. Socks,
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Ear cuff, £255,
Alan Crocetti
AMIT ISRAELI; PIXELATE.BIZ
87
TRENDS Sweater, £1,690.
Shirt, £890. Skirt, THE
£980. All Valentino.
Boots, £1,100,
CITY
Valentino Garavani.
Ear cuff, from £335,
WELLY
Charlotte Chesnais. The trusty
Hoop earrings,
price on request, wet-weather
Panconesi staple has
had a high-
fashion
upgrade.
£750, Bottega
Veneta
£930,
Celine
by Hedi
Slimane
£850,
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Choo
£1,545,
AMIT ISRAELI; PIXELATE.BIZ
The Row
88
“YOU JUST CAN’T let fear get in
the way.” That is Jourdan Dunn’s takeaway
from her many, many years as a model and
her main piece of advice to all those starting
out. In a fun and thought-provoking Vogue
Visionaries class, in partnership with YouTube,
31-year-old Dunn takes us through the highs and
lows of her time in the fashion industry, from her early
rejections to the headline-grabbing catwalk moments that
defined her career. Following stellar tutorials from the likes
of novelist Bernardine Evaristo, singer Celeste, hairstylist Sam
McKnight, actor Naomi Scott and fashion designer Alexa Chung,
Dunn shares everything she’s learnt from her career as one of the
world’s most sought-after models. She demonstrates her three perfect
poses, offers advice on getting your portfolio noticed by agents, gives
her number one tip for good skin and, above all, shares how important
knowing your self-worth is for success. “Giving up is the easy option,” she
says. After all, “What’s the worst they can say?” n
Watch every Vogue Visionaries class for free at British Vogue’s YouTube Channel.
For more information and updates on new releases, sign up at Vogue.uk/visionaries
MODELLING
in partnership with
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
Four decades
of STYLE
Carolina Herrera is celebrating
40 years with a fabulous capsule
that is as vibrant as her first
IT’S BEEN 40 YEARS since
Carolina Herrera stormed on to the New
York fashion scene with a Metropolitan
Club show to remember. The Studio 54
regular, who brightened up society pages
alongside the likes of Bianca Jagger,
channelled her knack for elegant dressing
into a womenswear brand that was catnip
for Manhattanites. Herrera’s personal
uniform – a fresh white shirt tucked into
a voluminous skirt – became an exemplar
of everything the house stood for: class
and refinement, but always with a dash
of playfulness. Herrera broke glass
ceilings when she founded her label at
the age of 40, and now her successor Wes
Gordon is paving the way for another
four decades of Carolina Herrera style.
To celebrate the anniversary of the
brand’s founding, Gordon is designing
a special Ruby collection in honour of
his predecessor. Encompassing the
alegría de vivir, or joy of living, that quintessential glamour of the Carolina
Carolina Herrera has always been known Herrera world is as strong as ever.
for, the capsule features a sweeping It’s no coincidence, then, that the
paillette gown, a Swarovski embellished collection – alongside the brand’s range
Good Girl fragrance infused with of special customisable make-up and
signature notes of jasmine, and a best-selling perfumes (Good Girl is a
similarly designed customised lipstick, top 10 feminine fragrance in the UK)
intended to hold the iconic Herrera Red – is launching exclusively at Harrods
310 shade. Symbolising the house’s in September, just in time for the party
dedication to fabulousness – and also season. After all, Carolina Herrera is
including the Matryoshka tote and and will always be a fashion and beauty Carolina Herrera at
Metropolitan Insignia evening clutch leader, with female empowerment at work in her atelier
– the Ruby capsule shows how the its core. n
“My go-to beauty products are The
VOGUE DARLING
Ordinary 100% Organic Cold-
Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil [£9], The “I like a good
Body Shop Brow & Lash Gel [£10] local venue. “I listened to
and my Muji eyelash curler [£7].” Satan’s Celeste every
Whiskers is time I had a
a Bethnal serious scene.
Green She always
cocktail bar got me in the
that looks mood for my
like an character.”
abandoned
“Imbue Coil Awakening building.”
Sulphate Free Cream
Cleanser [£9] is a beauty
trick I learnt on set. It has
changed my hair.”
91
White-gold and
diamond earrings,
£5,750. White-gold,
diamond and
tsavorite bracelet,
price on request.
Both Tiffany. Jacket,
£4,200. Shirt, £2,800.
Both Louis Vuitton.
Hair: Alfie Sackett.
Make-up: Lucy Burt.
Nails: Chisato
Yamamoto. Digital
artwork: Grain Post
Production. Model:
Alex Andrews
92
JEWELLERY
Out of the
ORDINARY With its latest Knot collection, Tiffany turns everyday
elements of the New York City landscape into art, says
Chloe Schama. Photographs: Ben Weller. Jewellery
director: Rachel Garrahan. Styling: Poppy Kain
W
hen Alexandre Arnault moved introduced to the world by Tiffany in 1974. it adopted by the baseball team. When Arsham
to New York in the January of Despite its refinement, though, the collection went into the Tiffany archive at the outset of
2021, it was a very different offers an edginess true to the spirit of both the the project, he was struck by the number of
place from the one he’d grown city and the brand. (Sure, Holly Golightly first items that were conceived with function and
up visiting. The city, of course, was in the throes gazes into Tiffany’s windows in a pavement- durability in mind: a custom key, for instance,
of the pandemic’s winter surge – muted streets, skimming ball gown, but don’t forget she’s also that also served as a bottle opener. “It was >
shuttered theatres, abandoned parks. But the sipping a deli coffee pulled
emptiness gave the 29-year-old LVMH scion from a throwaway paper
a chance to see the urban landscape anew, and bag.) And with their deftly
to absorb a little on-the-ground inspiration – hidden clasps, the bracelets
which he promptly funnelled into his new role mirror the structural marvels
as executive vice president of product and of the city. “If you hold the
communications at Tiffany (LVMH had products in your hand,”
bought the brand that same month). It was an Arnault says, “they are really
essential re-education, even for someone engineering beauties.”
familiar with the east-coast metropolis. “If you Tiffany has, as Arsham
were to ask anyone in the world to name three reminds me when we
New York brands,” he says, “probably the first speak, always had one eye
one that comes to mind would be Tiffany.” on elevating quotidian
Inspiration struck, however, not among the design. (I think of my
marble edifices of Fifth Avenue, but from a children’s silver Tiffany
more humble feature of The Big Apple’s baby spoons tucked away
architecture: the chain-link. The brand’s new in my cutlery drawer, the
Knot collection, which launches this month, perfect size to deliver mushy
does not, however, resemble the fencing around peas or mashed potatoes.)
a vacant lot. These are necklaces, earrings, He is wearing a New York
bracelets and rings fashioned from yellow and Yankees cap. The famous
Artist Daniel Arsham
rose gold, some lined with pavé diamonds. interlocking N and Y logo with the bronze box he
There is also a special-edition white-gold was, he explains, originally has created to house
bracelet – produced in a one-time collaboration designed by Tiffany as the limited-edition
Tiffany tsavorite bracelet.
with the artist Daniel Arsham – adorned with part of a tribute to an NYC Photograph: Zander
diamonds and tsavorite, a rare green gem police officer shot in the Taketomo
discovered in Tanzania and Kenya, and line of duty, only later was
93
JEWELLERY
“It’s an
interesting way
to reiterate
the idea that
our products
are eternal,”
says Alexandre
Arnault
Gold and
diamond
earrings, £4,300.
Gold and
diamond
necklace,
£30,100.
Both Tiffany.
Asymmetric-
sleeve sweater,
£740, Celine by
Hedi Slimane.
For stockists, all
a kind of luxury that was about taste more than seem beaten up by weather and wear, as The precise chemical wash that Arsham
price,” he says. though they were unearthed from Atlantis or applied to the boxes to bring about the look
Arsham also wanted to riff on the iconic the ashes of Pompeii. “The idea of something of accelerated ageing is actually a special
robin’s-egg-coloured Tiffany box to create both decaying and crystallising, of backward mixture called “Tiffany blue”, though the
something that could, in theory, be used for and forward motion, at the same time is coincidence is a little beside the point since
purposes beyond its initial intent. The appealing to me,” Arsham says. Arsham is colour-blind and, as he tells me,
resulting container, one of only 49 that will “It’s an interesting way to reiterate the idea “It’s debatable if the Tiffany blue that I see is
be produced – and the home to the limited- that our products are eternal,” Arnault adds. the same one the world sees.”
edition tsavorite bracelet – is a bronze “The more patina they have, the more cachet, Nonetheless, there is a certain serendipity
sculpture that reimagines the jewellery’s the more stories to tell.” Of course, the in the convergence of Arsham’s approach
packaging as part of Arsham’s Future collaboration continues another kind of story with Arnault’s desire to honour the past of the
Archaeological series, a long-standing project as well, since Tiffany has a long history of 184-year-old company while simultaneously
that toys with concepts of time, modernity collaborating with New York artists, from continuing to push it forward. “Jewellery can
and antiquity. A little corroded, a little scarred, Andy Warhol to Jasper Johns and Robert be a time capsule,” Arsham says – something
the boxes (which are themselves housed in Rauschenberg. And, as Arnault says, “Daniel that contains the essence of a moment, but
containers that emulate art-packing crates) is the essence of 21st-century New York art.” is made to last. n
94
ARTS & CULTURE
MATRIX
by Lauren Groff
The world of 12th-century nuns
is brought to life in this evocative
novel, in which the rebellious
Marie de France is cast from
courtly life and sent to England to
work as the prioress of an abbey.
BURNTCOAT Utterly absorbing, Groff shows
by Sarah Hall how her protagonist’s fearless
“Those who tell stories survive,” spirit transforms the world around
begins this atmospheric novel, which her. Published on 23 September
multi-prize-winning author Sarah Hall (Hutchinson Heinemann, £13)
started on the first day of lockdown
in March 2020. As celebrated
sculptor Edith Harkness, who is at
the heart of this beguiling book,
confronts her final days, Hall writes HARLEM SHUFFLE
in exquisite prose about desire and by Colson Whitehead
death in the midst of a national crisis. Though he has won the
Published on 7 October (Faber, £13) Pulitzer Prize twice, this
blistering love letter to
Harlem is so powerful it
may just win Colson
Whitehead a third. Set
in the early ’60s, it follows
Ray Carney, a furniture
salesman-turned-crook. A
scorching portrayal of race
and power. Published on 14
September (Fleet, £17)
NOVEL
IDEAS
Autumn’s most
original reads. Chosen
by Anita Sethi
PEACES
by Helen Oyeyemi
“I many times thought
peace had come/When
peace was far away,” wrote CROSSROADS
Emily Dickinson in a poem by Jonathan Franzen
that forms the epigraph to In this, the first of a
this magical novel, in which planned trilogy, the
new couple Otto and foremost chronicler of
Xavier Shin and their pet American family life
mongoose embark on a brings us the unsettled,
mysterious train journey. Chicago-based
The author of Gingerbread Hildebrandt clan, and
takes us on a wild ride, tackles the themes he
exploring desire, identity writes best: the power
and how to find order in a of familial dynamics
turbulent world. Published and how to break free
on 4 November (Faber, £15) of them. Published
on 5 October
(4th Estate, £20) n
96
Earthy delights
Art, science and the senses collide in the
work of Anicka Yi, to unforgettable effect.
By Hayley Maitland. Photographs by
Andrew Jacobs. Styling by Patrick Mackie
Silk-crêpe dress,
£2,150, Balenciaga.
Leather boots,
£675, Jimmy
Choo. Jewellery,
Anicka’s own.
Hair: Eric Williams.
Make-up: Ai Yokomizo.
Production:
artProduction. Digital
artwork: Escape
Hatch Studio
I
n the past 10 years, Anicka Yi has injected live snails with oxytocin, Today, she’s perched in the light-filled sitting room of a rented barn
displayed tempura-fried blossoms inside giant plastic “bubbles”, in New York’s Hudson River Valley, mismatched pearl earrings and
smeared gallery walls with butter (then allowed it to go rancid), a pair of tortoiseshell Caddis glasses emphasising her delicate features.
and exhibited a heady concoction made up – among other things Occasionally, she fields a text from her Bushwick studio – her only
– of powdered Teva sandals, antidepressants, palm-tree essence, sea lice fixed address after giving up her home in Long Island City during
and a mobile-phone signal jammer. So, when she uses the word “radical” the pandemic.
to describe the Turbine Hall opening in 2000, it carries real weight. Some two decades after her first revelatory visit, the 50-year-old
“Not that anyone invited me to be part of the conversation back conceptual artist will transform Tate Modern’s vast central atrium this
then, but putting art in what is basically a giant factory – it felt October for its prestigious Hyundai Commission. “It’s funny because
revolutionary to me,” the South Korea-born, America-raised artist I’ve always struggled with the identity of ‘artist’, partly because I’ve
says, recalling her first visit to Tate Modern. “Art can really breathe never fit the conventional definition of one,” she says. “But the level of
in a space like that.” discretion and gravity around this job – it’s like being anointed.”
ARTS & CULTURE
Leather jacket,
£1,495. Wool
Even a passing glance at Yi’s multisensory oeuvre will be enough to a bookkeeper for other creatives in downtown Manhattan. It was only
convince anyone that she’s well-equipped for the gig. Comprising a at the age of 35 that she started considering how to “externalise a lot of
genre-defying amalgamation of biology, philosophy and technology, the knotted narratives” that she felt she had been carrying around inside
her works are known for their sensual qualities – particularly their her since birth. “I just had these ideas that I felt I had to pursue, and I
tactical deployment of fragrance. Take her 2015 exhibition at The would be by myself at like 2am, frantically writing questions on message
Kitchen in New York, for which she had a hundred female subjects boards for NYU students about chemistry,” she says with a laugh.
DAVID HEALD/SOLOMON R GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION; RENATO GHIAZZA; ANICKA YI/47
cotton-swab themselves, then tasked an MIT bioengineer with synthesising A watershed moment came after she won a residency at the MIT
SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT.
the DNA collected from their mouths, armpits and vaginas into one Center for Art, Science & Technology in the mid-2010s, but it’s her
bacterium. The finished piece, named Grabbing at Newer Vegetables after 2016 Hugo Boss Prize that put her on the fashion world’s radar. For
a line from a John Ashbery poem, consisted of a glowing agar slab on her resulting installation at the Guggenheim, she collaborated with a
CANAL, NEW YORK/GLADSTONE GALLERY, NEW YORK AND BRUSSELS
which the bacteria flourished – filling the room with a peculiar, corporal team of molecular biologists to develop a perfumed artwork, Immigrant
scent that left one male visitor gagging, much to her delight. Caucus, using compounds lifted from Asian-American women and
“Scent engages a different level of our consciousness, and it reminds carpenter ants. A few years later, she made headlines for suspending
us that we’re part of the natural world, which is a source of deep, deep luminescent chrysalis-shaped pods made out of kelp at the 2019 Venice
trauma for a lot of people,” she explains of her interest in creating Biennale, where she also managed to control a patch of Venetian soil’s
olfactory works. “We’ve been taught to worship cleanliness and microbiome using specially developed AI.
odourlessness. Smells remind us that the alleged distinction between What sort of chemistry experiments, then, does she have in store for
humans and animals, plants, fungi and bacteria is a myth.” the Tate? “I’ve essentially built a world in the Turbine Hall,” she enthuses,
The same logic gives her a more philosophical approach to Covid-19 stressing that she’s been working on the exhibition for nearly two years
than most. “Of course, there’s no denying the brutality of the pandemic,” due to the pandemic. “It’s more than an art project, really. It’s something
she says, “but maybe rather than a hysterical rejection of the virus, there’s else altogether.” While the precise nature of the installation has to be
a better way forward. Anthropocentrism is a dangerous fallacy, and it’s a kept under wraps, she is clear that it will touch on both the “industrial
self-centred way of approaching life. This is our collective opportunity heritage of London as a city and particularly the Turbine Hall”, as well
to zoom out again, and realise we’re part of a symbiotic planetary body.” as being “really charged with the past 18 months of history”.
Perhaps one reason for Yi’s unique perspective? Her less traditional “Ultimately, nothing looks the same to us now as it did before,” she
path. As she would have it, she “came into [the art world] sideways”, says. And, for Yi, that can only be a good thing. n
quitting a film theory degree at UCLA and eventually working as Hyundai Commission: Anicka Yi is at Tate Modern, SE1, from 12 October
101
armanibeauty.co.uk Cate Blanchett
LIVING
“Right now, one of my go-to
places is Croydon
Candles. Fabulously
coloured tapers are a
clever way to change up your
decor.” Candles, £15 each,
Croydon Candles
“The headscarf
is one of my
all-time
favourite looks,
and a hugely
undervalued
wardrobe
staple. I’ll take
“Some days, only a
mine in the
massive bag will do. I love
new Versace
this scarlet statement
monogram, La
piece from Khaite,
Greca.” Silk
Catherine Holstein’s
scarf, from
label.” Patent-leather tote,
£190, Versace
£1,750, Khaite
105
HOME EMPORIUM
ARCHIVE_SDG
LIVING
INSIDE
SCOOP
Meet the young interiors
dealers with a great eye
for vintage finds.
By Naomi Smart
JERMAINE GALLACHER
WHO Jermaine Gallacher has been instilling his punk energy into
wheeling and dealing offbeat objects and furniture since his days
at Camberwell College of Arts.
109
MONUMENT
WHO Friends Leah Forsyth-Steel and Victoria Spicer joined forces in
November 2020, leaving behind careers in museum curation and set design
respectively to turn their collecting impulses into Monument. How do they “We look for pieces
start their sourcing process? “We look for pieces that we believe can stand
alone. That are monumental in their own right.” that are monumental
USP “We’re a duo, so you’ll see a lot of juxtaposition within our curation in their own right”
– timeless stone sculptures next to mid-century studio pottery adorning
a 1980s marble table. We like to re-contextualise and present our collection
as simply that.” The pair are also inspired by the dealing community at
large. “There is a lot of support for each other and also purchasing from
each other – we’re all collectors, after all.”
Sculpture,
£130, from
a selection,
Monument
AU ANNA UNWIN
WHO Anna Unwin worked as an interiors stylist for a
magazine and sourced and styled for private clients before
launching AU Anna Unwin in 2019. Based in Cambridgeshire, Dining chair,
she occasionally pops up with temporary stores connecting £600, from
customers IRL with her pared-back and timeless aesthetic. a selection, AU
Anna Unwin
USP If you love marble and travertine, look no further –
Unwin is an expert in both. She also hunts out the most
elegant 1970s dining and coffee tables, and is a go-to for
restoring sofas and chairs in elegant cream bouclé.
110
LIVING
Right: artwork, £520.
Lamp, price on
request. Bookcase,
£760. All from a
selection, Max Keys
MAX KEYS
WHO Max Keys first started experimenting
with vintage clothes selling at local markets
near his home town of Worthing. Now based
between London and Paris, his offering spans
furniture, art, lighting and accessories.
Right: lamp,
£225. Below:
candlestick,
£350, sold as a
pair. Candle,
£22, sold as a
pair. All from
a selection,
Mantel
LILY BROWN; AGNES LLOYD-PLATT; @TIMYOUNGPHOTOGRAPHER; TOBY ZIFF
MANTEL
WHO Based between south-east London and Brighton,
Sadie Perry launched Mantel last August while still an interiors
and fashion trend forecaster.
111
The List
V I S I T U S AT
th e li s t .h ous e a ndgard e n .c om
MICHAEL SINCLAIR
PAUL MASSEY
LIVING
OSWALDE
WHO Dover Street Market alumnus Jenna Fletcher burst on
to our IG feeds mid-lockdown with Oswalde – a selection
of rainbow-hued, mostly Italian plastic pieces from the
1960s and ’70s (think Joe Colombo Boby trolleys and
Giancarlo Piretti for Castelli Plia chairs).
113
VERY MA RO I TOJE ,VER Y SA N DE RSON .
READY-
TO-WEAR
Your guide to the latest trends
and where to buy them
IMAXTREE
1
SPORTMAX
Poloneck,
2
£25, Uniqlo.
Above, from left:
trousers, £36,
Mango. Shirtdress,
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Victoria Beckham.
LEG ROOM
Earring, £39,
Thomas Sabo
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PICK
3
Necklace, £170, Oroton.
Clockwise from above:
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119
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120
YSLBEAUTY.COM
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GETTY IMAGES
124
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Left: kaftan,
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Marmo, at
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com. Right:
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Kooples. Below:
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Leonie Hanne
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FENDI
Above: scarf,
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Right: boots,
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Bromley
125
Laura Mercier Face Illuminator in
Addiction, £36, at Cultbeauty.co.uk
1 Bracelet, £330,
Paco Rabanne,
at Farfetch.com
2 Dress, £320,
Self-Portrait
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T
here is a tiny wine bar near where Diane Abbott remembers featuring on more Conservative posters – as the
lives in east London that hosts no more than six feared enemy – than Labour ones. Yet, when the ballots
customers at a time, and serves only bread and were counted, there she was: beaming in a red jacket and
cheese to soak up the booze. The Labour MP for pearls, set to become part of the first black and Asian intake
Hackney North and Stoke Newington arrives with minimal in Parliament for almost a hundred years.
fuss, sliding into a corner with a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon. It was a staggering and glorious win, but “there were a
She is slighter and quieter than the Abbott you know from lot of micro-aggressions,” she says, recalling the period.
TV, dressed head-to-toe in navy and wearing a slick of “Labour wasn’t thrilled any of us got elected in ’87.
black-cherry lipstick. The lighting is dim, the scene seems Fortunately for me – and unfortunately for them – they
set for a conspiratorial gossip. Abbott is unconvinced. weren’t able to [axe me].”
“I wouldn’t say I’m mistrustful, but I’m cautious,” she says In spite of all her electoral successes, it’s never been plain
drily, in those instantly recognisable tones. “You think people sailing. In 2017 (then shadow home secretary under Jeremy
are your friend, but they’re not.” Corbyn), she endured a general election campaign so brutal
Few people understand this as well as Abbott. For all her that Amnesty International revealed she was the target of
public profile and almost 35 years in Parliament – filled nearly half the abusive tweets sent to female politicians in
with both usual and unusual highs and the six weeks before election day. The
lows – she now occupies a pretty solitary “I just wanted to press wasn’t much kinder, until she
space in British politics. Largely adored
in her constituency, loved and loathed
change the world. The disclosed the physical toll that type two
diabetes was having on her health.
DIANE WEARS COAT, MAX MARA. TOP, EILEEN FISHER, AT FENWICK. NECKLACE, MOTLEY
within her party and the country at idea that you can be a For a while, in the aftermath of defeat,
large; at 67, she continues to face a
unique brand of scrutiny and abuse that
voice for the voiceless is she withdrew from the public eye.
“At one point, I felt completely
often surpasses her peers. An Abbott still very important” crushed by the volume of racist and
gaffe, such as stumbling over numbers sexist hate poured on me,” she says.
during interviews, is pounced upon, making her a butt of How did she cope? “Obviously, it’s painful. It’s designed to
jokes and memes. be. It’s dehumanising. It’s one thing when it’s anonymous
But her extraordinary accomplishments – first black woman people online but when it’s mainstream journalists, who
MP, first black MP at the PMQs despatch box, the only know me, who are defaulting to a stereotype of what I am
black person from a state school to study at Cambridge in and not who I am…” She trails off, pausing to consider
the 1970s – cannot be disputed. “There’s this narrative about what keeps her going. “There are so many issues that you
how I’m an idiot,” she says, bluntly. “I think most people want to engage with. You wake up in the morning, you hear
don’t realise I actually went to a reasonable university.” something on the radio, and you think, ‘Someone should
It’s an impressive legacy. But to understand the Abbott say something about that.’ And then you think, ‘I’ll say
conundrum you need to go back to the start. On 11 June something about that.’”
1987, the then 33-year-old turned up to Hackney Town It’s a Pollyanna-ish spirit that’s always been with her.
Hall on general election night expecting the worst. The Abbott grew up in Paddington and as a child dreamt of
campaign had been chaotic. The Conservatives’ Hackney political office, gabbing away to her mother about news
office was firebombed and Abbott’s HQ had its windows stories, declaring what she’d do as the UN secretary general,
smashed. She fought her own party to win a candidacy or how she’d take charge as prime minister. “I just wanted
(which the National Front also protested against) and to change the world,” she says, smiling at the memory. >
142
FORCES for CHANGE
Hair: Zateesha
Barbour. Make-up:
Alex Babsky. Nails:
Roxanne Campbell.
Set design: Danny
Hyland. Digital
artwork: True
Black Studio
143
“The idea that you can be a voice for the voiceless is still carry on till 10 at night. I mean, just the logistics of that
very important. It’s very current – just look at the way were ridiculous.” Even now, she says, “it is still quite tough
migrants are demonised. Immigration and asylum have to be a woman and an MP.”
always been a big part of my postbag.” Abbott is measured, sinking into long pauses before
It’s an issue she understands. Abbott’s parents – a welder speaking. She appreciates that experience has made her
and a nurse – both left school at 14 to move to Britain from guarded. “I’m very conscious that other people will make a
Jamaica as part of the Windrush generation. But, with a mistake and it’s fine, they made a mistake. I make a mistake
confidence born of naivety rather than arrogance, Abbott and it’s a huge thing,” she says. It’s an exhausting way to live.
had a plan to succeed academically. She excelled at Harrow Take mojito gate, when she was snapped with a Marks
County School for Girls and applied for a university place & Spencer cocktail can on the London Overground in 2019.
at Cambridge, against her teachers’ advice. She graduated Among the wave of fury and calls for her resignation, a
with a history degree, before stints as an administrative youthquake emerged as young people refused to let Abbott
trainee at the Home Office and a reporter at Thames TV, be vilified. “At first, I was so embarrassed. You know, caught
which led her to embark on a career in politics. In 1982, drinking a mojito on the train.” Then, the junior staff in
she was elected to Westminster City Council, and from her office told her it was seen as a “relatable moment” online.
there to Parliament. “That’s when I realised it was going to be fine,” she smiles.
Her transition to life as an MP was a challenge on many Does she still buy M&S tinnies? “Yes, occasionally!”
fronts. With an energy that makes her gasp now, Abbott Despite it all, Abbott has never shied away from
describes being back at work a mere eight days after her controversy. She repeatedly defies the party whip, and has
only son, James, was born in 1991. She’d carry him in a publicly berated Labour leaders – in particular, Tony Blair.
Below, from left: Diane
sling in the Commons, to the annoyance of some male “Was I undesirable?” she asks rhetorically. “For New Labour,
Abbott, photographed in colleagues. She and her then-husband, Ghanaian architect yes.” What about now? Last year, she blasted Keir Starmer
Hackney by Misan David Thompson, divorced when James was a baby. “It was on Newsnight for the way she felt he had manoeuvred his
Harriman; with Jeremy
Corbyn at the 2018 very difficult to be a single mother with a young child, and way into the role of Labour Party leader. “I’m not looking
Labour Party Conference an MP,” she says, recalling that “regularly Parliament would for another big job [under Starmer],” she says. “It’s a very
different parliamentary Labour Party now.”
Several months later we meet again, this time in Abbott’s
new home. She has recently sold her four-bedroom Dalston
house (after her son moved out it was “too much for me on
my own”) and is renting a “stopgap” nearby. Since we last
spoke, the nation has been through the second wave of the
pandemic and Abbott’s main concern over the past few
months has been focused on the uptake of the vaccine in
her constituency, which has one of the lowest vaccination
rates in the capital.
On our second meeting, she is less harsh on the Labour
leader. “I think that there’s a tension between offering the
right criticisms, but not being seen by the public to be
nitpicking or negative or unpatriotic,” she says of Starmer’s
approach to taking the government to task. “And Keir has
sought to strike that balance.”
144
FORCES for CHANGE
Perhaps her biggest inconsistency seems to be mirroring
her politics with her personal life. Abbott criticised her
colleagues, including Blair, for not sending their children
“I’m very conscious that to state schools while promising to achieve a fairer education
for all. But when her son turned 13, she sent him to a fee-
other people will make a mistake paying school, saying she had to choose between her
and it’s fine. I make a mistake reputation and her son’s interest, as, “Once a black boy is
and it’s a huge thing” lost to the world of gangs, it’s very hard to get them back.”
“I’m not talking about my love life,” she says coyly, when
I ask if she’s dating. “That is one of the sacrifices you make
[for this job] really.” Is she in love? “At this moment, no.”
She has no time for the culture war that is constantly It is her friends, she says, “that have been able to support
being stoked. “There’s no such thing as woke culture,” she me when things were difficult”.
tuts. “It’s a way of denigrating people.” She continues, “It’s Abbott’s days are simpler now, out of the shadow cabinet
bizarre, the way the right have this sense of being victims – early walks, reading the papers and “a little tweeting” have
when we have a right-wing government, we have a largely become a morning routine. Nevertheless, from the backbench
right-wing media. What more do they want?” you can still “push on the national picture,” she says, and
If Abbott has sometimes been a thorn in Labour’s side, education remains a key focus for her.
she’s also helped steer its moral compass. Back when it was There is, she concedes, “life after politics” but for now,
considered career suicide, Abbott voted consistently against she is disinterested in stepping away from the job. “Apart
the Iraq War. She’s also voted against tuition fees and from the things I’ve been able to do for Hackney, the thing
renewing the UK’s Trident nuclear weapons system; she I’m proudest of is that I’ve lived to see a whole new
was one of only 18 MPs to vote against the coalition generation of young black women coming to Parliament,”
government’s 2014 Immigration Act, which made the she says. “The first 10 years, I was there on my own. Now,
Windrush scandal possible. Instead, she has lobbied for gay I’ll be going to chamber and there will be these black women!
rights, for jobs and financial support for the young, and on I never cease to get a kind of thrill out of it.” Indeed, she
measures to prevent climate change. says, her most active Parliament WhatsApp group is called
When Corbyn was elected leader of the party, Abbott Sisters in the House.
was thrust into the limelight. She and Corbyn were firm The night before our second meeting, Abbott went to
friends, and the media latched on to their decades-old see J’Ouvert at the Harold Pinter (theatre is one of her great
intimate relationship. “Jeremy was the first Labour leader, passions). Afterwards, the cast, having spotted her in the Clockwise from bottom
left: Abbott speaking at
that I can remember, who tried to have genuinely progressive audience, came to say hello. “What struck me was how an Anti-Racism Action
policies on immigration,” she says, ever-loyal to the now excited they were that I was there,” she says, sounding conference in 1992; at the
sunk Corbyn project. Of Labour’s dealing with anti- dumbstruck. “It genuinely takes me aback to see myself in House of Commons with
Bernie Grant, centre, and
Semitism in the party, she says, “there’s no question it the eyes of younger women.” Jeremy Corbyn, right;
could’ve been handled better because ultimately it was right It is these interactions that help her go on. “It’s the people addressing activists from
Extinction Rebellion in
down the chain.” She’s referring to the leaked internal report, who come up to me in the street and say, ‘I wrote to you all Parliament Square, 2019;
which also exposed racist remarks made by party members those years ago and you got me this flat,’” Abbott says. She Abbott in 2004 on
about Abbott and fellow black MPs Dawn Butler and Clive stands to put her coat on, and a murmur of recognition This Week, which she
frequently appeared on
Davis. It made, she says tactfully, for “ugly reading”. Has whispers through the bar. “But on a macro-level,” she says, alongside Conservative
TOM WOOD. MISAN HARRIMAN. SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS
she had an apology? “No,” she says. “None.” smiling, “it’s still the 1997 general election. It’s hope.” n Michael Portillo
DIANE WEARS JACKET AND TOP, MAX MARA. NECKLACE, MOTLEY. BRACELET, ALIGHIERI. RING,
PHOTOSHOOT. MATT CROSSICK/EMPICS ENTERTAINMENT; PA IMAGES; GETTY IMAGES
145
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VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
“I feel like we’re all
in this together,”
says the soccer
star and Nike
collaborator
WOMAN’S REALM
Robin Muir looks back at the Vogue debut of a high-achieving
model royal, photographed by Norman Parkinson, October 1965
P
rincess Elizabeth of Toro – Vogue’s “Princess from Bazaar. This prompted an all-staff memo from American
the Mountains of the Moon” – is the Princess Royal Vogue’s Diana Vreeland, who admired her “fantastic figure”
of the ancient Kingdom of Toro (also known as and “enormous aristocratic manner”. She said, “It is a great
Tooro), which lies on a high plateau between two mistake that we are not using her more – and I really mean
great lakes on Uganda’s south-western border. this.” That same year, Elizabeth made a dazzling appearance
In 1962, shortly before Uganda gained independence from in British Vogue’s Christmas issue, photographed by David
British rule, Elizabeth, the eldest daughter of Rukidi III and Bailey. Her modelling continued into the new decade.
Kezia of Buganda, graduated from Cambridge. In 1965, the Meanwhile, in Uganda, Obote was overthrown by his one-
year of her first Vogue shoot, she was called to the bar, London’s time army chief-of-staff, Idi Amin. In 1974, the princess was
first female East African barrister. Of her education, which summoned back, appointed initially as a roving peacemaker
included school in England, she told Vogue, “I enjoyed myself for an increasingly erratic administration, and latterly and
but never forgot why I was here. I have been given enormous briefly, minister of foreign affairs for a now unstable dictator.
privileges, so many opportunities that it would have been a Falling out of favour – she is said to have declined Amin’s
total calamity if I had failed. I could not have borne the offer of marriage – she fled again. Under a benign new regime,
disappointment of those who have helped me.” Later she she became, in turn, Uganda ambassador to the United States,
would write, candidly, “I felt that I was on trial and that my to Germany and to the Vatican, as well as a tireless promoter
failure to excel would reflect badly on the entire black race.” of African causes abroad. Diana
She returned to Uganda to practice law but fled when A distinguished career in public life still lay before her Vreeland
Milton Obote swept to power (he would shortly abolish the when she sat for photographer Norman Parkinson in 1965.
hereditary monarchies). The princess’s poise led to a career He found the young Elizabeth refreshingly, perhaps admired her
as a model. Certainly expedient, she thought it might also unexpectedly, down to earth. Smoothing down a fold in her “enormous
serve a purpose: the promotion of African culture. Princess
Margaret invited her to London, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis
Guy Laroche dress, he told her, “You look just like a princess.”
“I don’t think that I particularly want to,” she replied. “You aristocratic
to New York, and in 1969 she featured on the cover of Harper’s can’t help it,” he said as his camera whirred into life. n manner”
151
MR VOGUE
We’ve been
expecting you
New Bond director Cary Joji
Fukunaga talks to Amel Mukhtar.
Photograph by Paul Wetherell.
Styling by Julia Brenard
I
t’s obviously been annoying as each potential
release came along and was pushed,” says No
Time To Die director Cary Joji Fukunaga, hoping
– along with legions of fans – that it will be
third time lucky for his beleaguered Bond movie.
The 44-year-old Californian joins the 007 family
at a milestone moment, this – the 25th film in Eon’s
franchise history – will be Daniel Craig’s last outing
as the British spy. So, how to put a fresh spin on it?
For Fukunaga, it meant avoiding the distract-them-
with-explosions and “don’t worry about story” route
suggested to him by a successful director. “I care
about my characters,” he laughs. He wanted to
deepen Bond’s interior world and explore his
priorities in middle age. To do so, he has looked to
his own life. “There are elements of my experiences
and feelings throughout the whole story,” he says.
DIGITAL ARTWORK: RABBIT RETOUCHING. SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT
There’s no shortage of material. Fukunaga wanted
to be a pilot until his vision faltered, and was a pro
snowboarder until his leg broke – in fact, it was
while he was injured that he developed his writing
at a theatre group. Several reroutes later (including
a stint as a stylist) he entered film school, aged 24.
With easy charm and leading-man looks, it’s a
surprise he didn’t opt to be in front of the camera,
but, he says, he had already “sort of lived and played
different roles”. Born to a Swedish-American mother
and Japanese-American father, he felt “neither white
nor Asian”. Brought up in Oakland, he connected
to east coast hip-hop and Malcolm X. At first,“I was
like, ‘Who am I?’” he laughs, but now he embraces
the versatility of being a “third-culture kid”.
“Whatever I’m interested in, I just do it.”
Right now, that’s directing the Steven Spielberg
and Tom Hanks-produced miniseries Masters of
the Air, and adapting his favourite book, A Soldier
of the Great War. After so many high-profile projects
he’s learnt that, “if you get too in the weeds about
the expectations of the world, the studio and yourself,
you’re not going to be able to perform at your best.
It doesn’t have to be the best in the world… I’m aiming
for something that affects people, hits the heart.” n
No Time To Die will be released in cinemas on 1 October
152
PRETTY IN PUNK
It’s time to explore the rebellious side of fashion.
Edited by Itunu Oke. Photograph by Leandro Farina
A BIGGER SPLASH
The Louis Vuitton Capucines
bag has had another makeover.
The third instalment of this
collaborative project sees artist
Gregor Hildebrandt bring his
signature work to the French
maison. This screen-printed
creation is more than an
accessory, it’s art.
Bag, £6,250, Louis Vuitton
& Gregor Hildebrandt
CHECKLIST
Necklace,
Jacket, £3,640,
price on
Alexander McQueen
request,
Pomellato
Earrings, Necklace, £750,
£756, Chanel
Givenchy Bracelet,
£3,700,
Gucci
Corset, £820,
Vivienne Westwood Gloves, £895,
Dolce & Gabbana
Boots, £895,
Manolo
Blahnik
Shoes,
£1,050, Dior
Trainers,
£580, Saint
Laurent by
Anthony
Vaccarello
PAOLO ROVERSI
CHECKLIST
Valentino
Beauty Twin
Liner in Black
& Nero, £36
Vogue, June 2019
Bobbi Brown
Crushed Shine
Jelly Stick in
Cranberry, £25
Estée Lauder
Pure Color
Whipped Matte
Liquid Lip in
Bar Noir, £26
Christian Louboutin
Beauty Noir Nail
Colour in Khol, £41
Fenty Beauty
Full Frontal Volume,
Lift & Curl Mascara
in Ivy League, £11
Mac Cosmetics
Pro Longwear
Paint Pot in Black Beauty Pie Quantum
Mirror, £18 Bronzer Matte in Ain’t
THEO SION
No Sunshine, £26
Lancôme
Hypnôse Palette in Marc Jacobs Perfect Intense
Smokey Chic, £44 eau de parfum 50ml, £85
HEALING POWER
When writer and broadcaster Clemency Burton-Hill suffered a catastrophic brain
injury, her life changed forever. Here, she tells us about her road to recovery
O
n the morning of 20 January 2020, only weeks before working hard to regain language, even trying to speak a few sentences
the pandemic turned the world upside down, I suffered a exhausts me. I can’t properly tell them how much I love them. How
catastrophic brain injury. One moment I was in a meeting much I love them. How much I love them.
in New York (where I live with my husband and two Before my brain exploded I had my ups and downs, of course. But
children), briefly distracted by the play of light as bright winter sunshine even in my lowest moments (I had three grief-sodden miscarriages
bounced off the East River and poured through the windows; the next and have experienced extended periods of depression since my teens),
– nothing. I was in a coma for 17 days, and when I came round, I could always count on the loves of my life to get me through. People,
I couldn’t speak, walk, write or move the right side of my body, but one books, music, art, theatre, London, travel, friends, going to the pub,
of the hardest things was having to accept that, in an instant, my life watching my beloved Arsenal play – these were all part of the tool kit
had changed forever. that I relied on for diversion and distraction.
My brain injury, it turned out, was the result of a rare condition, an As a writer and broadcaster, my career was dedicated to communication
arteriovenous malformation (or AVM) – blood vessels connecting my and expression, storytelling and connection. My god, how I loved my
arteries and veins had formed “incorrectly” in the womb. Nobody – no work. But now, every exchange is such an effort. I cried in frustration
doctor, no parent, nobody – could have known. writing this piece – left-thumbed on the Notes app, as I can no longer
A few days previously I had been flying back to NYC from London, type or write – because I’m now afflicted with the twin curses of aphasia
where I was born and grew up. If my AVM had started to rupture over and apraxia, common for many brain-injury survivors.
the Atlantic, it would have been fatal. As it happened, I was admitted Interacting with the outside world is difficult, too. It’s hard for me
to the emergency room quite shortly after I lost consciousness. There to leave my neighbourhood without help. The world is more complicated
were heroic doctors and nurses on standby; an expert brain surgeon, – physically, neurologically, cognitively. The spectre of another major
Dr Christopher Kellner was paged; my life was saved. Timing is everything. seizure, or worse, another serious brain haemorrhage, is always hovering.
When I was discharged, months later, the pandemic had rendered In my former existence, my horizons seemed infinite. Now, I can’t move
life unrecognisable – just as my brain injury had rendered me much, let alone drive or fly, and being in a car, train or bus makes me
unrecognisable. Navigating the cognitive dissonance of the new world, feel anxious and physically sick. There are few days when I can leave
of my new world, has been exhausting and distressing. And yet I feel my very circumscribed life. Privileged I may be, but my life is bound
like the luckiest woman in the world that I even get to try. by a few Manhattan blocks.
There are, of course, occasional moments of relief, even joy. Brain People ask me if this experience has revealed a new side of myself,
injury or no, watching my kids, now aged seven and three, go about maybe one that I am thankful for. It would be tempting to say it has.
their little lives is mostly a source of pleasure. But it’s not uncomplicated. Thank you, brain injury, for uncovering a more enlightened me. Sure,
Observing them growing up and being unable to (inexpertly) kick a there’s compromised speech and mobility, cognitive fog and chronic
football, (impatiently) take them to the park or (soothingly) plaster a pain, but no hangovers! No late nights! A more healthy existence!
grazed knee, let alone have a real conversation, is agony. While I am Truthfully, I don’t think so. I’m still me. I miss those late nights. I miss
drinking. I miss conversations. I miss my cities. I miss my work.
And yet… I go for a short walk most days, if I am physically up to
it, and I’m working on just being here. There’s nothing like the possibility
of death at 38 to sharpen your gratitude for life, for actually being alive.
Savouring the sounds of the city, the colour of the sky, the taste of an
excellent cup of coffee. How lucky am I! If this is the extent of my life
158
VIEWPOINT
159
SIGHT
With a whole new spacious environment to
approach, BMW’s design team considered
the i range’s interiors with the perspective
of a living space. This is achieved by a
clever combination of geometry, colour
and ingeniously absorbed technology to
complete the sensory experience.
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
ELECTRIC
A feat of design and engineering, the
innovations of BMW’s latest iX and
i4 cars appeal to all the senses and
FEEL
propose a brand new way to drive.
SOUND innovation is there. The unique challenge of these materials here, with a list of
Outside, the iX and – distinct from those of clothing, for example – is the high impressive stats to back
the i4 give off standards of resistance that they must meet, a very difficult that up. The i4 is the
minimal noise, but feat to achieve alongside biodegradability. world’s first all-electric
inside, the cars
come with a BMW One conversation that has recently come to the fore with gran coupé, with the
Iconic Sounds clothing manufacture surrounds traditional chemical dyeing M50 promising 544
Electric feature, a
curated series of
methods, which are among the most hazardous of processes horsepower and the
sound packages to to the environment. With this in mind, BMW’s challenge eDrive40 a 365-mile
enhance the driving was to find a way to achieve the crimson red for the iX’s range. Meanwhile, the
experience. Expect
the latest curation leather upholstery without negatively impacting the planet. iX boasts a sports car
by composer Hans The solution was eventually found in the juice of olive leaves level of acceleration,
Zimmer to arrive – a natural, pioneering innovation and just another example and can reach 74 miles
early next year.
of the brand’s holistic approach to solving design issues. of range from just 10
It’s also worth noting that such advances in the physical minutes of charge when
and smart elements of the car don’t come at the cost of using a rapid charger
driving performance. The iX and i4 are leading the field capable of 195kW. >
The newly angled conversation around the relationship
between person and space at the centre of BMW’s i range
has also been made emphatically in the marque’s voice. One
great example of this is the classic kidney grille that has
been a central aspect of BMW’s visual identity since 1933
and was historically used for supplying cool air to the engine.
Today, with no more need for its original purpose, the iX
and i4’s kidney grille has been transformed into a smart
hub, using inbuilt cameras and radar functions to
supply hundreds
of pieces of data
to the cars’ “How can we give
intelligent driving people something that is
systems. There
are further great
more of an experience
innovations, too, than they ever had with
such as brake
energy recovery
their petrol engines?”
and a superbly
aerodynamic, lightweight construction, that mean that the
cars are prepared to reach optimum performance, both on
and off the road.
Of all the innovations BMW has made in honing the
feel of driving, one of the most interesting has come from
filling the space created by the absence of engine noise.
With the frequencies experienced by a driver eliciting an
WLTP RANGE FIGURES OBTAINED AFTER BATTERY FULLY CHARGED, SHOWN FOR COMPARABILITY PURPOSES. MAY NOT REFLECT REAL LIFE DRIVING RESULTS
EMISSIONS: 0 G/KM. ELECTRIC ENERGY CONSUMPTION (COMBINED): 16.1 TO 18.4 KWH/100KM / 2.8 – 3.9 MILES/KWH. THE I4 ELECTRIC RANGE 258 – 366 MILES.
KWH. THE IX XDRIVE40 ELECTRIC RANGE: 246-257 MILES. THE IX XDRIVE50 ELECTRIC RANGE: 366-380 MILES. BMW I4 MPG (L/100KM): NOT APPLICABLE. CO2
invisible yet deeply emotional effect, the “clean sheet” now
BMW IX MPG (L/100KM): NOT APPLICABLE. CO2 EMISSIONS: 0 G/KM. ELECTRIC ENERGY CONSUMPTION (COMBINED): 20 TO 21 KWH/100KM / 2.9 – 3 MILES/
available was handed over to an expert in the field. Legendary
composer, producer and Academy Award winner Hans
Zimmer was the surprising and brilliant choice to re-imagine
the aural experience, as he was tasked with creating an audio
landscape that will soon be absorbed into the existing iX
and i4 models.
“How can we give people something that is more of an
experience than they ever had with their petrol engines?”
asked Zimmer of the proposition, “and make it even more
exciting and even more joyful to drive?” Such questions led
the top composer to write music that reflects the serenity
of hitting the open road and the excitement that lies at the
heart of driving. Standing back to assess the score he has
created for BMW, Zimmer says, “We have developed a
driving sound which accentuates their emotional driving
experience particularly vividly and ensures their performance
can be felt with even greater intensity.”
What all this adds up to is a truly unique driving
experience. Behind the wheel, what strikes you most about
both the iX and i4 is the physical, emotional and even
intellectual pleasure you get from realising just how cleverly
BMW have capitalised on the
economy of space that eliminating
TOUCH much of what we have grown used to
No longer as essential in a vehicle has given.
dominated by Add to that the attention to detail
controls and applied to every aspect of the car and
machinery, the feel
of the car is the natural reaction is not so much
simpler, cleaner one of shock as a sense of, “Why
and more in tune
with the driver and
hasn’t it always been like this?”As we
passenger. With all get back to both experiencing the
integrated world afresh and thinking about it in
technology serving
a relationship both wholly different ways, there has never
between driver and been a more perfect time to take a
car and car and wheel that has been reinvented, in a
road, it presents a
new, symbiotic sense, and feel it for yourself. n
experience. For more information, visit Bmw.co.uk
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
Incorporating
intuitive “shy tech”,
the iX’s interiors
match BMW’s
progressive mindset
with details that
feel akin to a stylish
living space
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FRESH
TAKES
Your guide to the season’s
best wellbeing and beauty
innovations. Photographs by
Felicity Ingram. Styling by
Lorna McGee
167
Vest, £560,
Dior. Bikini
bottoms, £315,
Chanel
BIOHACK
your way
to better
health
Upgrade your wellbeing
with a few simple tweaks,
says Georgia Day
G
oogle the definition of
1
biohacking and you’ll find
practices ranging from sleep-
tracking and meditation to
pumping young blood into your veins
in a bid to fight ageing. Although PRIORITISE YOUR SLEEP
the world of biohacking can sound
somewhat sci-fi, its converts are keen “Sleep is the number one tool for everything, whether your goal is more energy, From left: Quay
weight loss, improved hair, skin and nails, or better mental health,” says Lee Australia Blue
to extol the benefits of what is a simple Mullins, founder of Workshop Gymnasium. Maximise your sleep quality by Light Glasses,
desire to perform and function at our cutting down food and caffeine consumption before bedtime, and reducing from £29.
ChiliSleep
very best. “People who think it’s only your blue-light exposure at least three hours before bed. “Blue light Cube Sleep
about cyborgs and chip implants are stops us secreting melatonin, which is essential for proper System, from
sleep,” says Gray, who champions blue-light blocking £699
wrong – biohacking is all about health
glasses. Body warmth can also impact sleep quality,
optimisation,” confirms Tim Gray, says Mullins. Invest in a temperature-controlled
founder of the Health Optimisation mattress pad that allows you to select your
Summit. “There can be crossover, but ideal sleeping climate.
the fundamental practices are more basic
than that. It’s not about turbocharging
yourself so you can perform at a
superhuman level, it’s about performing
how we should be naturally and restoring
homeostasis to the body.” In other
words, to get started on your biohacking
journey, address the fundamentals first
and you’ll reap the health rewards
quickly – no chip required.
168
WELLNESS
3 TWEAK YOUR
DAILY DIET
It’s not just what we eat but when
we eat that matters. “Intermittent
fasting is an age-old technique,” says
nutritionist and naturopath Rosemary
Ferguson, who attests to it improving
2
sleep, digestion, gut health, energy
and mental clarity. “The simplest way
to do it is to extend the natural fast
that you’ve had overnight and not eat
until 11am, for example. When you do
eat, ensure that it is following the
perfect plate method: half veggies,
quarter protein, quarter carbs and
a little good fat.” Also try adding a
scoop of reishi or chaga mushroom
to your daily smoothie. According
to Ferguson, these antioxidant
adaptogens offer a different array
of phytonutrients from other plant
4
foods and bring balance to the body.
Leaf & Oil Organic Reishi
GO WITH YOUR GUT Mushroom Powder, £16
5
FELICITY INGRAM; GETTY IMAGES; PIXELATE.BIZ
169
This page: bikini,
from £125, Reina
Olga. Opposite:
slip dress, £340,
Olivia von Halle
170
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The eye companion to the SYRENE AQUA
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this wonder product contains
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MARINE
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171
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CASE STUDIES
Why settle for one shade of eyeshadow, asks
Twiggy Jalloh, when the latest palettes offer an
array of possibilities? Photograph by Leandro Farina
173
BEAUTY From left: Larry King
My Nanna’s Mousse, £24.
Undone by George Northwood
Volume Spray, £15. Dyson
Flyaway Attachment, £30
A
going. In fact, clinical trials showed
radiance improved by 297 per cent after s the saying goes, “The higher
12 weeks. Your new best friend in a bottle.
the hair, the closer to heaven.”
Whether it’s true or not is anyone’s
guess, but with a raft of new root
BEAUTY
boosters at your disposal, it’d be rude not to
try. Inject some va-va-voom into hair with
My Nanna’s Mousse from Larry King, which
NOTES ON STYLE
FELICITY INGRAM; PIXELATE.BIZ
What better way to start the new season than with a showstopping signature scent? Happily, a slew of fragrances from some of the world’s
biggest fashion houses promise straight-off-the-runway confidence. Hermès’s Twilly Eau Ginger is warm, sparkling and soft, while Valentino’s Voce
Viva Intensa leaves a rich and powerful trail. In its hundredth year, the eternal Chanel No5 is still the perfect companion to any occasion, including
– said Marilyn Monroe – bed. And not forgetting Miss Dior from Dior, a classic floral – think rose, iris and peony – with a light finish.
Above, from left: Hermès Twilly Eau Ginger eau de parfum, from £79. Valentino Voce Viva Intensa eau de parfum, from £60.
Chanel No5 eau de parfum, £120. Dior Miss Dior eau de parfum, from £55
174
Mesh top, £227,
Nastyamasha. Bikini
bottoms, £105 as
part of set, Youswim.
Earrings, £215,
Completedworks.
For stockists, all
pages, see Vogue
Information
175
Midi Mayfair in Ivory Croc
ASPINALOFLONDON.COM
Paloma Elsesser
wears crochet
and satin dress,
£3,500, Miu Miu
Cream
of the
WORDS: SARAH HARRIS. PHOTOGRAPH: DAN MARTENSEN. STYLING: CLARE RICHARDSON.
crop
HAIR: TOMO JIDAI. MAKE-UP: ROMY SOLEIMANI. SET DESIGN: KADU LENNOX
HARVEST SEASON has a refreshing effect on the soul; those cool autumn mornings clear the mind like nothing else.
It’s life-affirming. Edie Campbell knows the feeling only too well, as she invites us to her new home (designed in tandem with
her mother, architect Sophie Hicks) in a secluded corner of the English countryside. Elsewhere, Annie Leibovitz embraces
far frostier climes, when she travels to Iceland with a trio of models dressed in the season’s pick of puffers, parkas and
piled-up knits. It seems that now, more than ever, we look to our clothes for protection and comfort – sensuality, even –
which is something Dan Martensen captures beautifully in a day on the farm with model Paloma Elsesser. Of course, the
great outdoors isn’t only about rural or rugged landscapes. As far as we’re concerned, it’s wherever makes your heart sing,
and for Michael Kors – currently celebrating the 40th anniversary of his brand – that’s New York City. We take his latest
collection to its streets to help him mark the occasion. Zendaya, at only 25 years of age, already has a lot to celebrate.
Fashion’s favourite film star and this month’s cover star has lived many lives and learnt much along the way. What a journey.
177
The
world
according
to
Zendaya
To Generation Z, she is the ultimate influencer.
To those who know her, she is – at just 25 – an old soul.
Here, the actor Zendaya talks to Marisa Meltzer about
what her already more than decade-long career has
taught her, and why there is so much left to learn
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CRAIG McDEAN. STYLING BY LAW ROACH
178
“I’m trying, I’m learning
every day, I really am,”
says Zendaya. “There’s
so much I want to do.”
Custom-made
asymmetric-
shoulder silk-gazar
minidress, to order,
Valentino. White-
gold and diamond
earrings, Bulgari
Velvet body, £310.
Velvet skirt, £650.
Both LaQuan Smith,
at Browns. Tights,
£38, Wolford.
Suede shoes, £545,
Christian Louboutin.
Diamond and
platinum earrings.
White-gold and
pavé-diamond
necklace. Yellow-
and white-diamond
ring. All Bulgari
180
I
“We got in a nice, beautiful rhythm,
where we were able to snap
into focus on scenes but we had
fun, too,” says Timothée Chalamet
t’s lunchtime on a spotlessly sunny day in LA, and Zendaya’s first credit as a movie producer; one who ensured that part
Zendaya and I are in a corner booth in the back room of a hotel in West of the proceeds of the film went to the charity Feeding America.
Hollywood discussing her workaholic tendencies. “I hate spare time,” If Malcolm & Marie was an indication of her ambition, Dune – directed
she says, wrinkling her nose a little. “I just don’t know what I’m doing by Denis Villeneuve – shows her determination to take her career
when I’m not working. I’m like, I don’t know what this [and here the trajectory into her own hands. The film centres on the Atreides, a family
actor waves her hands over her body] is.” of interplanetary aristocrats who have recently taken over management
Unlike most twentysomethings, Zendaya (her last name is Coleman of the desert planet Arrakis, where spice, the most valuable substance
but, as with Rihanna or Adele, who needs it?) already has a long and in the universe, is mined. Zendaya set her sights on playing Chani, a
varied career behind her. A veteran of two different Disney series, she’s mysterious figure who Paul Atreides (Chalamet), the scion of the family,
been working a “nine-to-five since I was 13”. Her extracurricular activities keeps having visions of and who seems somehow connected to his future.
include competing on Dancing with the Stars (she was runner-up aged “Before they were even looking at people, I heard about it,” recalls
16) and co-designing a capsule collection for Tommy Hilfiger (she’s Zendaya. “And I was like, ‘I really want to get in the room.’ They weren’t
also the face of Lancôme, Bulgari and Valentino). She has had a Barbie looking in my direction. And I was like, ‘Hey, I’m here!’” Zendaya was
made in her likeness and met all of her heroes: Beyoncé (“so supportive”), eager to work with Villeneuve – “I don’t think he makes bad movies”
Oprah Winfrey, Michelle Obama. With upwards of 104 million – and had never met Chalamet before but, like everyone else, thought
Instagram followers, next up is, presumably, world domination. he was special. It seemed to her like a dream team.
Take the autumn she has planned, which will see her take over the Villeneuve didn’t take much convincing. “I remember meeting Chani
big and small screens. In December, she will reprise her part as MJ in for the very first time when Zendaya made me believe that she has been
Marvel’s Spider-Man: No Way Home (what can she say about it? raised on an alien planet, in the deep desert, in the roughest environment,”
“Nothing!”), but not before she will star opposite Timothée Chalamet he tells me of the audition. “We all know Zendaya is a brilliant actress
in the hugely anticipated remake of legendary 1965 cerebral sci-fi novel but I was particularly amazed by the high precision of her acting skills,
Dune this October. Then comes the second season of Sam Levinson’s her intelligence, her graceful patience and her great generosity. She’s
defining Gen Z show Euphoria, in which Zendaya plays teen addict one of the most professional artists I’ve ever worked with.”
Rue, a role that, last year, made her the youngest woman to win Zendaya felt like Chalamet, in particular, appreciated her presence.
outstanding lead actress in a drama series at the Emmy Awards. “I was the only other person closer to his age on the cast. So he was
We meet during a gruelling week of night shoots for the latter. If not like, ‘Awesome, someone who understands my jokes!’” They threw dance
instantly recognisable (it’s those bewitching eyes and slightly downturned parties in her trailer. “He just rolled up with his little boom box,” she
mouth that give her away), you’d think that 5ft 10in Zendaya would be laughs, and would play “2000s dance songs like Soulja Boy”.
unmissable, but she slides into the back room so quietly that it takes a “We got in a nice, beautiful rhythm, where we were able to snap into
moment to notice she’s arrived at the table. She’s wearing a white tank focus on scenes but we had so much fun, too,” Chalamet tells me, describing
sans bra, as all cool young women do these days, Tommy Hilfiger trousers, Zendaya as a “total icon” and a “great friend”. They text and see each
Converse Chuck Taylors and seemingly no make-up. Half of her long other when she’s in New York or he’s in LA. “He’s obviously a very
hair is swept up off her face, the rest falls in soft curls reaching halfway talented actor, but just a wonderful person and a good friend to have,”
down her back. Her phone lights up with a call from Levinson, and as she says. “Especially in this industry, it’s nice to have other people who
she reaches for it, I spot a yellow-diamond ring (at least five carats, maybe are going through it too and that you can talk to.”
six), from Bulgari. “This is my splurge, my treat-myself,” she smiles. “I Zendaya isn’t someone who wears the world too lightly. Does she have
do get a little employee discount,” she laughs shyly. “It feels like it’s gonna a therapist, I ask? “Yeah, of course I go to therapy,” she says. “I mean, if
be an heirloom, like one day I can give it to my grandchildren.” anybody is able to possess the financial means to go to therapy, I would
Grandchildren? If that feels premature from a woman who, when we recommend they do that. I think it’s a beautiful thing. You know, there’s
meet, is still 24, it is in keeping for someone who gets “called ‘Grandma’ nothing wrong with working on yourself and dealing with those things
a lot”. Like many child actors, Zendaya is someone who seems at once with someone who can help you, someone who can talk to you, who’s not
young and old, world-weary and a little… not naive, but open and your mom or whatever. Who has no bias.” The pandemic brought with
excited to learn everything she can about life, which she’s largely seen it her “first kind of taste of sadness where you wake up and you just feel
from the vantage point of filmsets and publicity appearances. A friend’s bad all day, like what the f**k is going on? What is this dark cloud that’s
16-year-old son told me that when he watched her play a teenage spy hovering over me and I don’t know how to get rid of it, you know?”
on her Disney series KC Undercover, she struck him as an old soul. She You can see how she may be channelling some of those depressive
laughs and nods. “I’ve been told that many, many, many times.” moments into her role as the often numb Rue in Euphoria, a show that
This year feels like Zendaya’s career is catching up to that reputation. deals with subjects such as addiction, sex and violence. But, she points
Her last film, Malcolm & Marie – a smart two-hander also starring John out, she is also “the most sober person you could ask to play this part.
David Washington, shot in crisp black and white, and released at the I can only understand it to an extent, and then I have to lean on Sam.
start of 2021 – felt like her coming-of-age moment; her transition from He was an addict for many years as a teenager. And he’s been clean since
starlet to star. Conceived and filmed entirely in lockdown, it also marked he was 19 years old. That’s the thing that makes me hopeful. > 186
181
Crinoline cape
embellished with
Swarovski-crystals,
to order, Giorgio
Armani. Wool skirt,
from £1,100, Burc
Akyol. Green-
amethyst, diamond
and gold earrings,
£2,340, Mateo, at
Matchesfashion.com.
Gold, emerald and
garnet ring, from
£10,670, L’Enchanteur
182
“Yeah, of course I go to
therapy… it’s a beautiful
Duchesse-satin dress,
£1,495. Duchesse-
thing. You know, there’s
satin gloves, to order.
Both Emilia
Wickstead. Leather
nothing wrong with
and strass sandals,
£790, René Caovilla.
Earrings and
working on yourself”
tights, as before
Zendaya and her stylist have started
building her an archive. “I want to
reuse my clothes. I want to be able
to wear that dress again when
I’m 40 and be like, ‘This old thing?’”
184
Crêpe minidress,
£3,505, Saint
Laurent by Anthony
Vaccarello. Leather
and strass sandals,
£790, René Caovilla.
Oval diamond ring
and rectangular
diamond ring, Bulgari.
Tights, as before
“I’m always like, ‘I will always need to work.’
Because if I don’t work then
everything can be gone tomorrow”
When we have all this really dark shit – especially this season breaks day where my little niece had friends over. I’m like, ‘Do you want to
my heart for Rue – there’s a glimmer of hope because I know that she hang out? Do you need a ride?’” she says in an overly eager manner.
is a version of him.” It’s touching the way she talks with such emotion “But she seems to be not too embarrassed for me. Euphoria helps with
about both Levinson’s past and the fictional Rue, who is part Zendaya, that.” But she ribs them, too: “My niece, who is two years older than me,
part Levinson and part her own person altogether. was wearing a side-part and skinny jeans, and I was like, ‘Uh oh, you
“It’s such a brutal season,” emails Levinson, “and what I love the most didn’t hear? Skinny jeans are cancelled. You’re out honey, you’re out.’”
about Z is she’s able to go to those dark places and then as soon as I Her family help ground and protect her, including in her very private
call cut, she’s hanging out behind the monitor, eating Cheesecake Factory but much-dissected love life. Zendaya has acted opposite pretty much
and cracking jokes.” He goes on, “She’s also family. We just shoot the all of the internet’s boyfriends: Chalamet in Dune; Jacob Elordi in Euphoria;
shit all day. We talk about the show, the characters, life, movies, politics. John David Washington in Malcolm & Marie; Zac Efron in The Greatest
She’s one of the most grounded human beings I know.” Showman. “Yeah. I’ve seen those tweets,” she laughs. But dating her
It seems Zendaya’s most important relationships straddle the line IRL is, she insists, a tall order. The list of approvals is long – “my dad,
between business and pleasure. (“I like being on set,” she shrugs, “it’s my brothers, it’s a whole thing. Good luck to whoever wants to take that
my social life.”). She was the first major client of her stylist and close on,” she scoffs. Perhaps her Spider-Man co-star Tom Holland, who has
friend Law Roach, who she met when she was 14, around the time long been rumoured to be her boyfriend, is up to the task? After all, the
Roach owned a vintage store in Chicago. They hit it off and he took following day, photos appear of the pair kissing in a car after our lunch.
her shopping for an outfit to wear to a premiere. Now they communicate Who can blame her for being reticent to go public with something as
in shorthand, sending each other screenshots of inspiration – Zendaya intimate and potentially dramatic as your love life in your mid-twenties?
scrolls through her phone showing me the references for her Vogue This is someone who refused to have her first kiss on-screen as a teenage
shoot, such as Cindy Crawford and other supermodels in power poses. Disney star. “I remember being on Shake It Up and being like, ‘I’m not
They have also started work building her an archive of designer clothes. gonna do this. I’m going to kiss him on the cheek because I haven’t
“I want to reuse my clothes. I want to be able to wear that dress again been kissed yet so I don’t want the kiss to be on camera,’” she remembers.
when I’m 40 and be like, ‘This old thing?’ Really finding good vintage Anyway, she’s not out shutting down Hollywood clubs, she’s a homebody
pieces that I want to invest my money in.” who spends her time watching movies and listening to true-crime podcasts.
Mostly though, she has a hard time spending on herself. “My mother’s During lockdown, she started painting – her Euphoria co-star Hunter
a saver, and so I try to keep that in mind. Then my dad’s like, ‘You know, Schafer bought her some oils. “If it’s not f**king Picasso first time I do
you can’t spend it when you’re dead,’ kind of thing. I’m somewhere it, I’m upset about it,” she says of getting to grips with the pastime. For
in-between.” At 23, she took her first holiday to Greece and told her those astrologically inclined: yes, she is a perfectionist Virgo.
assistant Darnell Appling (they met when he was her stand-in on KC But for all her inclination towards perfectionism, Zendaya’s not
Undercover and remain incredibly close, living together in her home in interested in a timeline. “I’ve never been like, ‘I want to do this at this
the San Fernando Valley) to take her card, pay for everything, and not time, then from this age, I want to do this.’ One day I’ll have a family,
tell her how much so she wouldn’t stress out. but I’m not trying to put a number on it, it’ll happen if it’s meant to
It’s something she talks to her therapist about. “The hope is to have a happen.” True feminism, she says, has to be intersectional and encompass
career where you can be in a position, financially, to just do things you “women that look like you, women who don’t look like you, women
want to do because you enjoy the work and not have to worry about whose experiences are different than you. That means black women,
the other things,” she says. She’s not sure she’s there yet, revealing the that means trans women, that means all women.”
weight of duty behind her drive. “But I’m always like, ‘I will always need Does she think about what she might tell her future children about
to work.’ Because if I don’t work then everything can be gone tomorrow.” what it’s like being black in America in this moment? She sighs. “I mean,
Z
that’s a big question. I don’t know – I don’t know what I’m going to tell
endaya grew up in Oakland, in the San Francisco Bay Area them. Hopefully, they’ll be able to look at what I’ve done and my body
in Northern California. It’s a city that never lost its radical of work and see it.” Art, she believes, is “a huge catalyst for change. If
edge (it was home to the Black Panthers), though in recent I ever do become a film-maker, I know that the leads of my films will
years tech-world money has crept in. Zendaya has a white always be black women.” And that’s certainly on her list. On set, she
mother, Claire Stoermer, and a black father, Kazembe Ajamu likes to sit near the monitors and ask questions about storyboarding
Coleman, both teachers who are now divorced. “My parents worked very shots. “I gotta hurry up and figure out how to f**king become a director,
hard to provide me with everything that I could have ever wanted as a man. I’m trying, I’m learning every day, I really am. There’s so much I
child,” she says. During the summers, her mother worked for a Shakespeare want to do.” Levinson predicts she’ll be “an astonishing film-maker”.
festival. “I grew up in the theatre. I was a little kid watching Richard III.” Before she gets too far ahead of herself, she still has this autumn to
In that sense, she was the classic precocious only child surrounded get through. We wrap up before she heads back into another long night
by adults. Actually, she has five half-siblings – three sisters and two of filming. Still on the horizon are two press tours for Dune and Spider-
brothers – though they are much older. Even so, they’re tight-knit – her Man, as well as her 25th birthday at the start of September. There won’t,
sister works for her and her brothers don’t live far – and they have she tells me, be a party this year – she’ll be in Venice, working. “It’s not
children who are close to Zendaya’s age. To them, she’s Auntie Daya. a bad way to spend your birthday,” she smiles. n
“I like to think I’m the cool aunt, I had this whole situation the other Dune will be released in cinemas on 21 October
186
Satin minidress,
£965, Maximilian,
at Net-a-Porter.com.
Tights, shoes and
ring, as before
Embellished viscose
gown, £3,560, Paco
Rabanne. Knickers,
from £20, Cosabella.
Leather and crystal
sandals, £470,
Aquazzura. Tights and
jewellery, as before
188
Dating her is, she insists, a tall
order. The list of approvals is long –
“my dad, my brothers, it’s a whole
thing. Good luck to whoever
wants to take that on”
SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT
Stretch-velvet
and leather legging
boots, £2,430,
Saint Laurent by
Anthony Vaccarello.
Earrings, as before.
Prices on request
unless otherwise stated.
For stockists, all
pages, see Vogue
Information.
Hair: Ursula Stephen.
Make-up: Sheika
Daley. Nails: Chaun
Peth. Set design: Gille
Mills. Production:
That One Production.
Digital artwork:
Gloss. With thanks to
Vogue entertainment
director-at-large
Jill Demling
189
A New York
TALE
His brand of laid-back American chic made Michael Kors
a billionaire, but his story began in The City That Never Sleeps.
Lynn Yaeger visits the designer at his 42nd Street HQ, while a few
of the city’s residents wear highlights from his autumn/winter
2021 collection and tell Vogue why they heart New York, too.
Photographs by Justin French. Styling by Dena Giannini
B
ellmore, Merrick, Freeport, Baldwin!” Michael Kors shrieks “I thought New York was Oz,” Kors says of the city where he made
when he sees me in the corridor outside his conference his reputation, the place that gave birth to his enormous success, the
room on 42nd Street. “Massapequa, Seaford, Wantagh!” town that he loves fiercely. This is the 40th year that Kors has been at
I shout back, while his assistants stare, open-mouthed, at the helm of his eponymous business, an enterprise built on his light-
this goofy recitation. But it is not strange to the two of hearted reverence for meticulous, classic American clothes, an empire
us. These are the stops on the Long Island Rail Road that the conductor that now comprises clothing for men and women, shoes, handbags,
bellows on the train to Manhattan, the golden land for Kors and me watches, jewellery, eyewear, perfume and more.
when we were growing up a few droopy suburban towns away from The designer is at this point a beloved billionaire, a national treasure,
each other on Long Island. Manhattan. That sceptered isle where recipient of countless honours, known to millions for his role as a
everything was possible, where there were no limits, where you went judge on Project Runway and his charitable work in the fight to end
as far as your imagination and sheer guts could take you. hunger. And though his is a quintessential American story – really, a
New York story – the rest of the world has embraced his vision (he
now boasts 820 shops internationally). As it turns out, the longing
for the perfect turtleneck, a beautifully cut trouser, a classic coat with
just a soupçon of transgressive wit, is universal.
Are you surprised at how huge it all became? I ask him as we settle
in – masks off, we’re vaccinated – on a summer afternoon in this very
strange year. “I am,” he replies. “I came of age when there were such
distinct borders for a designer. I thought, ‘You’re an American designer,
you’re going to design for Americans.’ English designers dressed English
women, the French dressed the French. I never thought that American
fashion, other than Levi’s, could be something that would be embraced
globally. When I first saw my clothes at Harvey Nics I thought, ‘Wow,
I’m international now!’ I mean, did I ever think that I would walk down
the street in Kuala Lumpur and see five Michael Kors watches and
seven Michael Kors handbags? No, I did not.”
He showed talent early – there was never any real doubt about his
future métier. By the time he was 12, Kors was operating a boutique
– albeit in his mother’s basement. “Everyone shopped at Iron Butterfly,”
he laughs. “We sold copper-wire jewellery, batik, little leather belt
COURTESY OF MICHAEL KORS
bags… When I was very young I was a model, and I was always very
entrepreneurial. My mother was like, ‘You’re gonna bank the money,
right?’ And I would be like, ‘Um, I bought a Bottega Veneta clutch bag.’
And she said, ‘Why?!’ ‘Why? Because it changes my life – it’s everything!’”
Michael Kors by If anyone understands how a handbag can change a life, how material
Inez & Vinoodh things can give joy and solace, it is Kors. “I think I made my own reality,”
he says. It helped that his open-minded family gave him the > 196
190
ASHLEY GRAHAM
& JUSTIN ERVIN
“I gave my twenties to NYC,”
says Ashley Graham. “I met the
love of my life here.” The model
and entrepreneur is, of course,
referring to her husband of 11
years, cinematographer and
director Justin Ervin. So, do the
couple have a favourite spot
there? “Brooklyn is a special
place for us. That’s where we
got married, became pregnant
and had our first child.”
From left: Ashley wears wool/
cashmere puffer jacket, £1,420.
Cashmere dress, £985. Leather
shoes, £450. Jewellery, her own.
Justin wears herringbone parka
and trousers, to order. T-shirt,
£45, Intimissimi. Boots, £109,
Dr Martens. Beanie, stylist’s own.
Clothing and accessories,
throughout, Michael Kors Collection,
unless otherwise stated
DOMINIQUE
JACKSON & EDWIN
TORRES JR
From Hell’s Kitchen to
Washington Heights, The Big
Apple is special to actress
Dominique Jackson and her
manager and fiancé Edwin
Torres Jr, not just because it’s
where they met and fell in love,
but also because it’s where they
made it. “New York City can
eat people alive,” says Jackson,
“and we not only survived it,
we thrived and conquered it.”
From left: Dominique
wears leather coat, £2,925.
Cashgora dress, £1,550.
Suede boots, £820. Leather
clutch, £715. Jewellery, her
own. Edwin wears wool coat,
herringbone trousers and
leather shoes, to order.
Sweater, £25, Uniqlo. Hat,
from £100, Lack of Color.
Jewellery, his own
IGOR
VISHNYAKOV
& SASHA
PIVOVAROVA
Artist Igor Vishnyakov and
model/artist Sasha Pivovarova
may have met in Moscow,
but they have made New York
their home. Their special
place? “Williamsburg,
Brooklyn,” says Pivovarova.
“We had our first apartment
there.” And what makes New
York City special? “It is the
most multicultural city on earth,
and I love the energy here.”
From left: Igor wears
cashmere sweater, to order.
T-shirt, £30, Calvin Klein
Jeans. Sasha wears
patent-leather coat, £2,205.
Cashmere dress, £720
193
AYODELE CASEL
& TORYA BEARD
“I always thought NYC was
the place to be if I wanted to
live out my dreams,” says
Michigan-native Torya Beard,
a stage director and creative
consultant. “Moving here
confirmed that.” Ayodele Casel
– her wife, a tap artist and
choreographer – couldn’t
agree more. “I grew up feeling
like NYC was the greatest
city in the world,” says the
Bronx-born Casel. “New
Yorkers are among the most
authentic people, and express
their identities and cultures with
so much pride. I love that.”
From left: Ayodele wears
cashmere sweater, £690.
Wool trousers, £720.
Hat, from £180, Lola Hats.
Torya wears wool coat,
£1,820. Jewellery, her own
TYGAPAW &
AVION PEARCE
The magic and myth of
New York often prove an
irresistible pull. “Coming here
from Jamaica was a giant
leap,” says artist, musician
and producer Tygapaw, who
arrived in the city 19 years
ago. “It has opened up my
entire world, and I’ve learnt
a lot from these streets and
communities.” Meanwhile,
New Yorker Avion Pearce,
their artist girlfriend, says,
“I was born here. I’ve moved
away many times but always
find my way back.”
From left: Tygapaw wears
duchesse-satin coat, £2,290.
Leather trousers, £1,690.
Vest, £88, Re/Done, at
Matchesfashion.com.
Shoes and jewellery,
their own. Avion wears
sequined coat, £4,230.
Boots, from £165, Syro
195
confidence to face the world unafraid. He recalls visiting a particularly
groovy aunt – he had persuaded her to take him to see his idol, Bette
Midler – and said aunt took him over to visit some of her friends
“I WAS IN SUCH A RUSH.
before the show. “I knew I was gay, but I didn’t know what that meant. I THOUGHT BY THE
I didn’t know what kind of life this would be,” remembers Kors.
“We walk in, there’s a bubblegum-pink kitchen, all these guys were
TIME I WAS 25 I COULD BE
there, an art director, someone in film… The bell went off, and I was A HOUSEHOLD NAME,
so relieved. I found my people!”
He found more of his people at New York’s Fashion Institute of BUT I DIDN’T KNOW IT
Technology, though he didn’t last long. “I quit school. I just kept COULD BE GLOBAL”
thinking, ‘I kind of know what I love and what I feel, I want to get
dirty and learn how to do it.’” If life sometimes imitates art, it can
also imitate a 1930s black-and-white melodrama, the kind of film The ascent of accessories and their essential democratic character
where the working girl makes good. For Kors, this moment came – if you couldn’t have the ensemble, you could maybe have the stilettos,
when – while still a student – he got a job at the beyond-trendy or the bumbag, or the stockings, or the card case – coincided with
boutique Lothar’s on 57th Street, across from Bergdorf Goodman. what Kors calls the casualisation of fashion. “I have to say, I’m guilty
“I always wanted a pair of tie-dyed French Lothar’s jeans, I was a – personally and as a designer,” he confesses. “What we put on the
swizzle stick back then, and you got a free outfit if you worked there. runway in Michael Kors Collection can be opulent, but it’s pretty
I wanted to be on the sales floor, I wanted to be around the clothes. laid-back. I can moan and groan, and say why are people going out
To this day, my favourite thing in the world is being on the sales floor,” in bike shorts, going to the movies in a jog bra, but the reality is, this
says Kors. This love of spending time with clients has been a challenge breakdown of the rules has been happening my entire career, and we
for him over the past year. “Zoom has been a lifesaver during lockdown,” can’t go back. How do we find the happy medium?”
he confesses, “but I am such a people person that the flat monotony He is, he admits, also trying to find a happy medium, a balance, in
of Zoom is something that I never truly fell in love with.” his own frenetic life. Asked what he has learnt from the past year, he
At Lothar’s he met the women he calls the global rich, people whose answers, “One word: appreciation. Appreciation for every little thing
effortless elegance and nonchalant chic informed his own ideas about – a store that sells chocolate-covered almonds that you like, a favourite
style. “I thought they were so intriguing – Marella Agnelli, women like restaurant, your friends, the people you work with, touching something
that. But also celebrities, Muhammad Ali and his wife Veronica, Goldie in a store, the rustle of the tissue paper. I am such a Type A, so speedy,
Hawn, Diana Ross. It was the ’70s, they were just walking around.” maybe it’s good to slow it down a notch?”
But suddenly – how fickle is fashion! – Lothar’s tie-dye aesthetic cratered, Kors is an unrepentant theatre fanatic, hell-bent on seeing every curtain
and the boutique’s owners asked Kors if he’d like to design a few things. rise from Broadway to the West End. In fact, for his autumn/winter
“Everything was one of a kind. If it was raining, I made a raincoat, if it 2021 show, he filmed his models (no live audience last April) sauntering
was hot out, I made a linen dress.” One day when Kors was in the window, in feathers and leather near the Great White Way, marquees for still-
his mouth full of T-bar pins, he saw, “this tall elegant woman staring shuttered shows shining in the distance. (He confides that were he not
at me, and she comes in and says, ‘Who designed these clothes?’ I said, a designer he would have loved to be a Broadway producer.) This
‘I did.’ Then she said, ‘My name is Dawn Mello, and I am the fashion consummate entertainer – his charisma is legendary – also lives to be
director of Bergdorf Goodman. If you ever do your own line call me.’ entertained. As soon as New York opened just a little, he called a bunch
I literally went home and sketched the entire collection that night.” of close pals and said, “Let’s watch Holly on a big screen,” and hosted
In short order, he made the samples, begged and borrowed equipment, a viewing of the quintessential Manhattan movie, Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
got a friend to model and showed the results to Bergdorf. They bit. But sometimes this latter-day Holly Golightly’s desire to speed
“I delivered everything in my aunt’s Mercedes, in garment bags.” He through life has been put to wonderful purpose. “My kind of good
convinced the store to give him a trunk show, and they were stunned fortune is so rare, and then to succeed beyond your wildest dreams
when the cream of Park Avenue society showed up. How did a 21-year- doing it! It started for me here in New York City, what could I do to
old kid know this crowd? “From Lothar’s! They came to my trunk give back?” Kors explains. “I’m very result-orientated. I need immediate
show, and they all bought something. And I was off to the races.” gratification. Back in the 1980s, when we were torn apart by the Aids
Asked whether this kind of origin story is possible for a 21-year-old crisis, I heard about God’s Love We Deliver… Someone needs food?
kid today, he is reflective. “What I would say to a young designer starting OK, we can bring it. The hunger thing really snowballed as I started
out is, be willing to fly by the seat of your pants. I didn’t have a fashion travelling globally. I thought, there is enough food, how do we partner?
show for the first three years. You’re wasting your money if you’re not How do we lasso the power of social media, our fans, our customers?”
ready. I realise the light and the glare of the internet is so intense, but This October will be Kors’s ninth year supporting the Watch Hunger
don’t try to design a whole collection, focus on something you really Stop campaign – so far, more than 24 million school meals have been
love, keep it small at first. I am always excited to see designers who have delivered to children around the globe through the organisation.
a point of view and know their customer; a combination of creativity, To give back, to fully appreciate the small things along with the bigger
empathy and business savvy. I think Telfar does a brilliant job. I am also things – and the unfathomably huge things – these are the lessons that
a fan of Peter Do and of Bode. I think they are all carving their own Kors has learnt over four decades as an American designer who is also
niche.” Well OK, Michael, I guess it depends on what you mean by a citizen of the world. And if humanity has determined anything over
small? “I was in such a rush,” he confesses. “I thought by the time I was the past 18 months, it is that we are one world, one global family. Kors
25 I could be a household name, but I didn’t know it could be global.” shares one of his favourite stories: “We were in the South Pacific, we’re
He got the first inkling of the future of fashion in the late 1990s. on a little speck of an island and there’s a lovely little pearl shop in the
“When I became the designer for Celine, I realised, this isn’t so cut up middle of nowhere. We walk in, and the girl is wearing a dress from
by region anymore.” He had always been shoe- and bag-obsessed – “maybe the Michael Michael Kors diffusion collection. She kind of looks at
because I’m so casual” – and it dawned on him that, unlike clothing, me, and says, ‘Are you…?’ I say, ‘You’re wearing one of our dresses!’
accessories are impervious to the size and age of the wearer, and the She says, ‘You know the piece?’ ‘Of course,’ I tell her, ‘I know every
climate where she lives. He found himself thinking, “Does something piece that we make!’ ‘Even still?’” she asked this boy from Long Island,
work in Jakarta, what’s going in Sydney, in São Paulo, instead of does looking at his own work, no doubt beaming just a little, a million miles
that work in Chicago? There was a world out there – a bigger world.” from his beloved New York City. “Even still.” n
196
DIDIER MALIGE
& GRACE
CODDINGTON
Two of New York’s most
legendary fashion-industry
imports also happen to be a
couple. French hairstylist Didier
Malige was the first to land
stateside, in the 1970s, while
Welsh fashion editor Grace
Coddington arrived a decade
later – transferring from British
to American Vogue. Paris and
London’s loss was The Big
Apple’s gain. For our April
issue, Coddington “ventured
on to the streets of New York
City with the photographer
Craig McDean. We took the
model Binx Walton on to
the freezing sidewalks to
record a moment in time,
to capture the spirit of this
crazy past year.” Job done.
From left: Didier wears
shirt and jeans, to order.
Jacket, his own. Grace
wears wool coat, £1,550
DANNY BOWIEN
& SARA HIROMI
Danny Bowien and Sara
Hiromi met at New York
Fashion Week – when the
chef/restaurateur and the set
designer both walked for
Eckhaus Latta – but they fell in
love over Sara’s kabocha
croquettes the following
Thanksgiving. So, where would
they spend a fun Saturday
night in NYC? “Usually, Danny
has to work late,” says Hiromi,
“but after, we’ll go decompress
at our favourite, secret sushi
place in Midtown.”
From left: Danny wears
flannel jacket, £1,290.
Strapless flannel top, to
order. Jewellery, his own.
Sara wears jacquard jacket,
£1,290. Jacquard dress,
£1,050. Headband, from
£120, Leila Jinnah.
Jewellery, her own
198
JUNO MITCHELL
& JACLYN
KITCHENMAN
“We fell in love with New
York City’s energy,” say model
Juno Mitchell and, his girlfriend
of three years, dog groomer
SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THESE PHOTOSHOOTS
199
200
Hot pursuit: even near
Fagradalsfjall – an active
volcano some 25 miles
outside of Reykjavík –
model Anok Yai keeps
her cool in Marc Jacobs.
Adventures in
WONDERLAND
A glorious – and unexpectedly glamorous – spirit runs rampant
as Vogue explores the season’s puffers and parkas
amid Iceland’s untamed backdrops.
Photographs: Annie Leibovitz.
Fashion editor: Gabriella Karefa-Johnson
201
Roadside attractions:
a pit stop becomes an
impromptu walkabout.
202
203
Striking out: Vogue
takes Thom Browne’s
golden gown and
Kei Ninomiya’s
woollens to the beach
– Reynisfjara Beach.
204
205
206
Take a hike: but bundle
up in style. Who said
luxury fashion couldn’t
be practical.
207
Silver belles: in a medley
of metallics, this trio
finds a shockingly good
answer to the frosty
surrounds of the
Svínafellsjökull glacier.
208
209
210
Taking the waters:
dramatic proportions,
strong colours and other
elevating touches give
the tried-and-trusted
puffer its moment in the
sun in the Jökulsárlón
glacier lagoon.
211
Cool runnings: the
perfect performance-
wear makes some
bold moves on
Diamond Beach.
212
213
214
Let’s get lost: near
Vestrahorn, on the
Stokksnes peninsula,
merrily mixed-up
patterns and textures
are ready-made
for rambling.
215
Don’t fence me in: in
the wide-open spaces
of Hvalnes, everybody
drops their defences.
216
217
218
GUTTERDISTANCING
SOCIAL CREDIT HERE
RULES
LIKE WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT
Holding pattern: how
to keep triply warm
on Hjörleifshöfði?
Colourful puffers,
knits and huddle.
219
Court
Favourite
At this year’s Wimbledon, newcomer Emma Raducanu
took a shot at tennis history and captured the nation’s
imagination in the process. Now, as the 18-year-old heads
to the top of her game, Olivia Marks catches up with her.
Photographs by Scott Trindle. Styling by Poppy Kain
S
woosh! Emma Raducanu’s tennis racket slices through as another of Britain’s superstar athletes, Dina Asher-Smith) surrounded
the air to the approving coos of spectators, as dust rises by her proud, gobsmacked classmates. To them, Raducanu laughs,
from where her feet have gracefully landed on the ground. she is still the “kid from year seven”, the “quiet one who didn’t really
From underneath her cap, she stares straight ahead, raise her hand”.
focused, serious. Then the camera clicks and the 18-year- Trying to reconcile the young woman in front of me leaping through
old from Kent breaks into a wide, toothy grin. the air in an Alexander McQueen gown – the same one that I watched
Raducanu – the young tennis star who, this summer, whip up the crowd on Centre Court, enjoying shouts of “It’s coming
appeared as if from nowhere to become the nation’s most exciting home, Emma!”– with the image that she paints of herself as the shy
player in a decade – is in a north London studio being photographed schoolgirl, is nigh on impossible. “I think the confidence comes from
for Vogue, offering the assorted collection of delighted onlookers (stylist, just inner belief,” Raducanu says, tucking into a lunch of tuna and
make-up artist, assistants) a tiny snapshot of the talent that helped salad in a break between photos. “My mum comes from a Chinese
make her the first debuting British woman in 42 years to get to the background, they have very good self-belief. It’s not necessarily about
fourth round of Wimbledon. telling everyone how good you are, but it’s about believing it within
Whirlwind doesn’t adequately describe the life-changing days that yourself. I really respect that about the culture.”
the teenager experienced on the fabled grass courts, which saw a wild Sport has undoubtedly played its part in growing the enviable,
card – then ranked world number 338, she is, at the time of writing, easy self-confidence that Raducanu radiates today. Born in Toronto,
184 – take on three of the world’s top players (Vitalia Diatchenko, an only child, she moved to Britain with her Chinese mother, Renee,
Sorana Cîrstea, Markéta Vondroušová) and eviscerate each one. Then, and Romanian father, Ian, (both of whom work in finance) when she
five days after her first match, when she was the only Briton left in the was two. Growing up in Bromley, from a young age she had the
singles, Raducanu’s tournament ended as dramatically as it began, when kind of extracurricular schedule that is exhausting merely to read –
she had to bow out of her match against Ajla Tomljanovic halfway while her mother was “more traditional” and took her to ballet
through the second set, after she started experiencing difficulties with and tap lessons, her father introduced her to golf and the worlds of
her breathing. It was a crushing disappointment for Raducanu and her motorsports, karting and dirt biking. And, of course, tennis. “He’s all
new legion of fans. But no matter: she had already claimed the hearts about being different,” she says, “and not caring what other people
of the British public, arguably the hardest-to-win prize of all. may have thought at the time.”
“At one point mid-game, I just let my racket go because I just didn’t Being the “odd one out” was something Raducanu, at first, had to
believe I made that shot,” she says two weeks later, shaking her head, grow used to, but then took pleasure from. “When I was younger, I was
still in disbelief. Throughout the tournament, her sheer, unabashed the only girl in my group karting or doing motocross, and I thought it
enjoyment of the game was, she believes, “genuinely shining through”, was pretty cool,” she says, with such pure enthusiasm that, for a moment,
which is one of the reasons she thinks she got the public on side so you’re reminded just how young she still is. “For example, one time, my
quickly – “and also the fact that I feel I relate to the younger audience, motocross teacher was like, right, we’re going to do press-ups. And
you know, who are still in school”. I was the only one who could do it, so I was proud of myself for that.”
Until a few months ago, Raducanu was too. She’s still awaiting her Even when she first started playing tennis, “The whole squad I was in
A-level results when we meet, and the night before her Vogue shoot, was all boys. It was quite intimidating in the beginning to, you know,
she was dressed up to the nines on a golf course in Orpington at her get out of my shell and actually begin to really enjoy what I was doing
school prom (she attended a nearby grammar, the same, coincidentally, because I was so scared. I’m not sure of what.” > 224
220
“I don’t feel like
anything is different,
in a way,” says Emma
Raducanu after her
Wimbledon debut.
“I was straight
back to work.”
Crêpe minidress,
£4,200, Valentino.
Shorts, £755, Louis
Vuitton. Socks, £125,
Gucci. Trainers, £80,
Nike. Baseball cap,
£500, Hermès. Pearl
earrings, £1,150,
Sophie Bille Brahe.
Hair: Syd Hayes.
Make-up: Laura
Dominique. Nails:
Pebbles Aikens. Set
design: Josh Stovell.
Digital artwork:
IMGN Studio
221
“AT ONE POINT
MID-GAME, I JUST
LET MY RACKET
GO BECAUSE
I JUST DIDN’T
BELIEVE I MADE
THAT SHOTÓ
222
Jacquard top,
£690, Gucci, at
Matchesfashion.com.
Embroidered
duchesse-silk skirt,
£1,150. Baseball cap,
£315. Both Gucci.
Pearl earrings, £825,
Sophie Bille Brahe
223
“PLAYING SPORT,
AND HAVING TO
BE FEARLESS, IT’S
GIVEN ME INNER
STRENGTH”
224
Opposite: silk-jacquard
dress, £10,630, Chanel.
White-gold and
diamond star earrings
with removable posts,
from £7,000, a pair.
White-gold and
diamond necklace,
£6,600. All Chanel Fine
Jewellery. White-gold,
diamond and pearl
earring, sold as a pair,
£6,400, Annoushka.
This page: leather
and faille biker jacket,
£4,500. Faille skirt,
£2,270. Both Alexander
McQueen. Socks, £125,
Gucci. Hi-tops, from
a selection, Nike,
at Presentedby.com.
White-gold and
diamond earrings,
£22,800, Cartier.
Black-diamond,
sapphire and emerald
orbit ring, £8,950.
Black-jade and
diamond ring, £5,600.
Both Hannah Martin.
Prices on request
unless otherwise stated.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information
173
225
How to improve on
Miu Miu’s cottagecore
crochet? Add a kid.
226
UP-COUNTRY
228
Nobody does pure
seduction better than
Dolce & Gabbana.
229
230
Loungewear has
stepped up a gear, and
Salvatore Ferragamo’s
knitted romper is vital
veranda attire.
Cashmere/silk knit
playsuit, £885,
Salvatore Ferragamo.
Cashmere socks,
£185, The Elder
Statesman, at
Harvey Nichols and
Matchesfashion.com
Revel in Blumarine’s
Noughties nostalgia.
Knitted minidress,
£590, Blumarine
232
Lean into insouciant elegance for your country walks,
courtesy of Valentino and Dior.
233
Shawanda Corbett’s
artwork translated into
a hand-knitted blanket?
JW Anderson is
elevating the everyday
with extreme finesse.
234
Those seeking their
own pastoral fantasies
need look no further
than Balenciaga.
Silk-jacquard
dress, from £1,700,
Balenciaga. Bra,
Paloma’s own
235
Achieve the ultimate
lit-from-within glow
with a few drops of the
ultra-light Mac Studio
Radiance Face and
Body Radiant Sheer
Foundation, £27.
Mohair sweater,
£310, Alberta Ferretti.
Hair: Tomo Jidai.
Make-up: Romy
Soleimani.
Set design: Kadu
Lennox. Production:
Creative Chaos.
Digital artwork: 4C
Imaging. Model:
Paloma Elsesser. With
thanks to Greenlawn
Farm and Kinderhook
Farm, New York State
236
SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT
237
Cheek by
JOWL
When the ageing process started pulling her cheeks down
by her chin, journalist Sarah Brown embarked on Project Jowls.
Her mission? To lift, tighten and turn back time.
Photograph by Inez & Vinoodh. Styling by Phyllis Posnick
J
owl: noun. The lower part of a person’s or animal’s cheek First of all, degradation of collagen and elastin affects skin quality and
when it is fleshy or drooping. firmness. Fat pads – the plump little cushions that help give a face shape
Are there many things more horrifying than jowls? Does – thin out, shift and slide south. The gradual loss of bone (I’m talking
the entirety of the English language contain a less attractive, about your skull) literally shrinks the structural foundation upon which
more cheerless word? Even the sound – jow-lz – is dreary, muscle, fat and skin rest, contributing to overall laxity and sag. Everything
glum. Like howl, but worse. Jowl is a word so bleak, it begins to settle at the bottom of your face, like a puddle.
almost feels sorry for itself. “It’s all gravity at work. You’re losing that scaffolding that’s keeping
But here we are. Jowls. everything tight and high. That gets manifested as jowls,” explained
They happen slowly. You don’t have to be old. Or even oldish. Or Dr Alexis Granite, consultant dermatologist at uber-aesthetician Sarah
particularly gluttonous, as the word might suggest. Jowls sneak up on Chapman’s Skinesis Clinic in Chelsea. “What creates a youthful face
you. They snuck up on me. One day you are happily going about your is high cheekbones and good jawline structure,” added Dr Benjamin
life, thinking that perhaps, at most, it might be time for a Botox refresher. Kauffholz, cosmetic wizard to the A-list of London and Paris, who
The next, a badly lit selfie or regrettable interaction with a three-way works between Dr Dray’s offices in both cities. “It’s about restoring the
mirror stops you in your tracks. “Who’s that?” you gasp. natural bone structure without changing the features.”
Slowly, slowly, my oval-shaped face was starting to look stretched Project Jowls was going to be a three-pronged mission that would
out, drab, like more of a droopy rectangle than a smoothly contoured include gently hoisting up everything that was beginning to slip (from
egg. Something (gravity) was pulling my cheeks down by my chin; they the eyebrows down), tightening the lower portion of my face from deep
appeared heavy, chipmunky. It looked like the bottom two-thirds of within, and sculpting the contours.
my face was a candle that was melting into my neck. Everything was My first stop: the Upper East Side office of dermatologist to Manhattan’s
sliding. All I wanted to wear were turtlenecks. My hair, a wavy 1920s social set, Dr Macrene Alexiades. “These are new. You didn’t have jowls
bob cut at a steep incline to flatter my angular features, suddenly no before,” she murmured, visibly frowning behind her mask, face shield and
longer worked. Interminable Zoom, WhatsApp and FaceTime calls goggles. “It’s just not you. We are going to work on vanishing these,”
(does no one simply use the telephone anymore?) were making it she said, confidently. Dr Alexiades wanted to get right down to business
impossible to escape my reflection and the invitation to silently analyse, and bring out the big guns. And by big guns, I mean something that
nitpick and despair. I rarely felt my best. I rarely even felt like myself. actually looked like a gun (Star Trek-style) and was apparently so powerful
Whatever was going on beneath the surface of my previously quite that instead of involving multiple sessions spaced weeks apart, like so
perky-looking face needed to be interrupted and reset – immediately. many in-office treatments, this would take just 45 skin-searing minutes
Thanks to the modern marvels of dermatology, I learnt that, to a certain (priced at a cool $5,000). Called Profound, it is a device that shoots
degree, it could. Marshalling London and New York’s finest, I sought radio-frequency sound waves out of its microneedle tips. Applied in
answers, advice and action. a stamping motion along my jawline, under my chin, and up and down
Over a series of initial video consultations, the all-star panel of skin my neck, the microneedles would create tiny holes 6mm deep that
experts I assembled explained that the slow and steady, imperceptible at would kick-start the formation of fresh collagen and elastin as part of
first, collapse of the natural architecture of one’s face is due to a constellation the body’s natural wound-healing response. The radio frequency would
of unavoidable events that arrive, one by one, “with age” (thanks). heat the tissue, encouraging a tightening, contracting effect. >
238
SOCIAL DISTANCING RULES WERE FOLLOWED THROUGHOUT THIS PHOTOSHOOT
240
and much longer-lasting effects of the Profound and CoolMini to I’d be back to see her in about four to six months, as the Botox wore off,
manifest themselves. but the Restylane Lyft could last as long as a year and a half, she said,
As Dyer evaluated my face from different angles, I showed her a recommending a touch-up for good measure midway through.
photograph that hangs at the top of my stairs. It is a portrait taken by Deeper change, it appeared, was afoot, too. When I took off my mask
Brigitte Lacombe some years ago of my mother and me. The contours upon sitting down to a blustery socially distanced outdoor dinner with
of my face look smooth and sleek, streamlined. This picture is so familiar my mother, whom I had not seen in several weeks, she immediately made
to me, yet sometimes I stare at it and wonder, where have I gone? “You a comment about my jawline and neck. She saw a difference. I knew the
don’t look that far off,” Dyer said, reassuringly. “You look a little like… CoolMini was working when my husband asked if he could try it, too.
like you’ve been through a pandemic. What’s happened between that My friend Megan and I did a FaceGym “private training” session
picture and now is just some basic ageing.” together over Zoom, where we learnt toning/sculpting/detoxifying
Desperately needed Botox gave an immediate lift to the brow (and exercises such as “finger ripping”, a tapping movement to the jaw and
everything beneath it), which made me look happier, more polished. cheek that our trainer, Madalaina, described as “high-intensity cardio”
Less beleaguered. That, combined with a trip to my masterful eyebrow for the face (which has more than 40 different muscles). “This is a beautiful
archer, transformed and cheered me immeasurably. It was as if everything movement to lift the jowls,” she cooed as we learnt the “palm pull-up”,
was starting to pop back into place, and into focus. pressing our palms to either side of our cheeks, Home Alone-style, and
I wasn’t counting the vials of Restylane Lyft Dyer plowed through, but lifting up through the temples for several reps. “Even two minutes a day
let us assume it was a lot, as she subtly restored the framework of my face, can make a difference,” she lectured, encouraging us to practice the
filling out hollows near my temples, building back my cheekbones, which techniques while cleansing or applying moisturiser each morning.
were apparently looking “quite flat”, and replacing lost mid-face volume. I jade-rollered and gua sha’ed with zeal, looking for any competitive
“The heaviness that’s extending here is changing the shape of your face; edge. Dr Granite sent the famed Facialift manual roller from Skinesis,
you’re getting longer and heavier,” she explained. “As we start to fill, it’s the big white wheels of which look like they belong on a moon buggy,
going to lift all of that back up. You’re going to feel like yourself again.” but are designed to lift, tighten, detoxify and release jaw tension.
It was not so much about attacking the jowls as treating everything that It was three months after the initial Profound treatment and the
was contributing to them. Think of a pair of stretched-out jeans that beginning of my jowl odyssey – truly, it had become an odyssey – when
you wash and, once they come out of the dryer, suddenly fit like they’re I went back to Dr Alexiades’s office to check in. “Your jawline is tighter
supposed to again. I was wary of having filler injected along my jawline and more lifted, no question about it. I’m happy,” she said. After squinting
(would it add bulk?), but Dyer explained that, injected deeply, close to at me sideways, she decided to give me a touch more filler, injected
the bone, it would “help expand the framework” and sharpen the line. invisibly in front of the ear, for the slightest extra lift, before proclaiming
Two weeks later, I was back in Dyer’s chair for what she called me “done”. I was overwhelmed by what a lot of work it required to look
“the refinement appointment: to see what we can do better, without as though you’ve had no work at all. To just look, hopefully, as you always
overdoing anything”. It reminded me of the back-and-forth one might have, and as you have remembered. As a final touch, Dr Alexiades held
have with a good tailor: going in for several fittings and small adjustments her iPad up to my face and took a series of triumphant “after” photographs.
to make sure everything was perfect. Still mid-pandemic, I was pretty A few days later, a message pinged in my inbox. Dr Alexiades had
much only leaving my house to go to the grocery store and to see Dyer. created an animation, superimposing my “after” photographs over the
She added a little more lift to the cheek and a few shots of Botox to the “befores” from my original appointment. It was possible to witness, from
platysmal bands, a set of muscles in the neck that date back to prehistoric three different angles, my face change in slow motion. I gasped. But what
times, when we were running around on all fours and our heads needed was more astonishing than the undeniable improvement the video revealed
more support. “Once these muscles relax, they’ll bounce up and you’ll was the change to the rest of the way I looked. I had more light in my
get 2 to 3mm of lift. It has such an impact on the profile,” she promised. eyes. I was sitting up straighter. I was holding my head higher. It worked.n
Clockwise from
left: Angelina Jolie
by Craig McDean,
March 2021;
Adwoa Aboah for
December 2017,
by Steven Meisel;
a Peter Lindbergh
image of Linda
Evangelista,
September 1992;
a photograph by
Irving Penn, for
August 1950
241
CAMPBELL’S
STOOP
Model Edie Campbell’s search for a rural retreat
ended when she found a plot of
Northamptonshire land complete with
two lakes. The next step was to design
and build a home. By Ellie Pithers.
Photographs by Simon Watson.
Styling by Tabitha Simmons
242
“Obviously, it’s very
different to the other
residential buildings
around here,” says Edie
Campbell. “But I also
don’t think you can
build a brand-new
‘ye olde stone cottage’.
That looks weird, too.”
243
The built-in
dining table is
surrounded by
chairs bought for
£5 each online
W
ant to test your relationship with your mother? After nearly three decades in London, as well as a whirlwind 15-year
Design and build a house with her. “It was the fashion career measured out in red-eye flights, Edie had been looking
most polite and understanding we’ve been to for a rural retreat for some time. She chose Northamptonshire, an
each other – ever,” confides Edie Campbell, understated, underrated county in the East Midlands, because she knew
slouched in a stripy deckchair on the balcony of it well (Sophie has rented a cottage in the area since 1985, and the
the Northamptonshire homestead she recently constructed with her family has been coming here every summer) and because it was well-
mum, Sophie Hicks. “In the past, we’ve had a slightly fractious located for national horse trials (Edie is an amateur rider who has been
relationship. You’re always ruder to your mother than you are to your competing semi-professionally since she was a teenager, with her horses
friends. But suddenly we were in this professional situation and we in livery nearby). Campbell had seen a dozen places before she came
were quite agreeable to each other.” across a fishery surrounded by farmland. The site of a former brick
It helps that the 30-year-old model – an art history graduate who quarry, the previous owner had erected a handful of miscellaneous
has fronted campaigns for Fendi and Versace, and is a regular presence buildings, dug two lakes and stocked them with pike, and was running
in the pages of Vogue – has a sophisticated understanding of contemporary a coarse fishing business. Edie was immediately taken with the plot.
architecture. And that 60-year-old Hicks is a former British Vogue “It had a nice energy, it was very quiet,” she says. And it had space for
fashion editor turned prize-winning architect whose precise style has stables and paddocks for her horses. By May 2018, it was hers.
lent an elegant practicality to stores for Chloé and Paul Smith, and to The buildings – a tired-looking bungalow and a falling-down shed
homes for the Le Bon family. Still, both mother and daughter seem among them – had to go. But Edie was adamant she didn’t want
quietly thrilled with how the “house between two lakes” has turned anything “slick and shiny and graphic” in their place. “Hedge-fund
out – and with how their relationship has been fortified by a 14- to manager in the countryside” and “Bond villain’s lair” were red flags.
15-month build spread over national lockdowns. “Mum is full of Rather, she wanted the house to feel “in some way, of its world”. She
opinions,” Edie laughs, affectionately. “But I know what I like, and I simultaneously pets Pam the schnocker (a lively mix of miniature
don’t flip-flop, and that was good for her. She just wanted me to know schnauzer and cocker spaniel) and gestures to the grey corrugated
what I wanted, and then she could enact it.” Sophie, for her part, fibreboard that clads the long, thin house, giving it the appearance of
describes her daughter as the perfect client. “Edie was very good to a local barn. “Obviously, it’s very different to the other residential
work for because she is very decisive. Once she’s made up her mind, buildings around here,” she says. “But I also don’t think you can build
that’s it. It makes life so much more efficient.” a brand-new ‘ye olde stone cottage’. That looks weird, too.” >
244
An open fire warms
the living room during
the winter months.
Above left: a guest
bedroom’s bobbin bed.
Above: tartan jacket,
£1,750. Denim jacket with
leather collar, £1,100.
Cashmere bandeau top, to
order. Wool trousers, £740.
Leather hi-tops, £650. All
Celine by Hedi Slimane
245
This page: from left,
Sophie wears wool jacket,
£2,500. Leather boots,
£1,350. Both Hermès.
Silk/cashmere trousers,
£2,010, The Row. T-shirt
and necklace, Sophie’s
own. Edie wears
cashmere/wool cardigan,
£4,590. Cashmere/wool
sweater, £3,520. Both
The Row. Poloneck body,
£490, Victoria Beckham.
Leather boots with sock
detail, to order, Chloé.
Opposite: from left,
the Bette bathtub is
enamelled in the same
green as the lake water;
the windows from Edie’s
bedroom afford a perfect
view of the sunrise
246
Nevertheless, neither mother nor daughter could resist a “f**k-off
location”. Rather than choose the site of the former owner’s home, in
a sheltered corner of the plot where Edie now has a manège for her
horses, they decided the narrow strip of land between the two lakes
“I LIKE THINGS TO BE was the optimal dramatic spot. Steel rods going 60ft into the boggy
ground, on to which a steel frame was welded, provided a simple
DISCREET AND A BIT modular structure. Almost every addition from then on was standard
RESTRAINED,” SAYS issue, from the glazing to the corrugated fibreboard to the precast
concrete planks that comprise the ceiling and floor. The only deviation
SOPHIE HICKS was a “visor” of corrugated fibreboard, which softens the flat roof and
stops water running down the glass windows, and two swooping interior
walls, enlivened with a rough sand and cement render in putty pink,
which conceal the functional stainless-steel kitchen at one end of the
house and the bedrooms at the other. “I was worried the house would
The starting point was a writing task: Sophie asked Edie to put feel a bit miserable and cell-like if every room had straight lines,”
200 words down on paper about how she imagined living in her future explains Edie. “They’re a nightmare for hanging any art. But they’re
home. “I was surprised,” recalls Edie. “It felt more romantic than I really nice to live with.”
had imagined her or the process to be.” But the psychology of modern The Campbell women are a frugal bunch, and a tight budget dictated
living is what fascinates Sophie. “Everybody lives and feels a place much of the project. Hicks, a lifelong hoarder, wanted to reuse materials
in a different way,” says Hicks. “The thing with architecture is to from past homes and projects that have lain dormant “in various
understand the character and the behaviour of the people you’re country barns” for several decades. Old oak bookshelves and wardrobes
working for, so you can try and do something for them that makes that once graced Edie’s childhood home in west London were trimmed
them feel comfortable.” What Edie detailed – a desire for openness down and inserted in the living room and bedrooms, while a brass
rather than cosiness, a sense of flow between inside and outside, to door that has acquired a weathered golden tinge since it was salvaged
be able to occasionally see her horses from a distance – ended up being from a 1990s project of Hicks’s lends a grandeur to the entrance.
a manifesto. “She was adamant about the fact that she didn’t want a In the living room, the free-standing sofa was a cast-off from Edie’s
‘designer’ house,” recalls Sophie. “And I don’t like statement architecture father, and the dining chairs were £5 each, snagged on auction website
either. I like things to be discreet and a bit restrained, to settle into The-saleroom.com. Artwork was the major expense. Sculptural
their position and use a bit of local vernacular. So I totally got what ceiling lights inspired by a Franz West exhibition Edie visited at Tate
she was saying.” Modern in 2019 were made by her best friend, the artist Christabel >
247
Wool/cashmere sweater,
£315. Tie, £100. Both
Margaret Howell. Cotton
shirt, £175, MHL by
Margaret Howell. Cotton
jodhpurs, £750, Hermès.
Boots, Edie’s own
MacGreevy, and side tables were crafted from chunks of pine from a
spinney on the property by the designer James Shaw.
Resolutely unflashy, the house now possesses an airy, tranquil feel.
Edie and her girlfriend Hanna Hanra, a journalist, awake early to red- LAZY SUMMER
streaked sunrises. They potter down to the stables to muck out and AFTERNOONS ARE
SPENT READING,
exercise the horses – Bruno, Tinker, Dolly, Ed and an as yet unnamed
248
The ottoman
standing in front of
the living room’s
built-in sofa hides
the television.
Above left: ferns and
water mint have
been planted
beneath the decking
to add lush texture.
Above: viscose
sweater, £790.
Loden trousers,
£980. Both Miu Miu.
Hi-tops, as before.
For stockists, all
pages, see Vogue
Information
249
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250
B R I TA I N | P R O P E R T Y
ART IN RESIDENCE
As Frieze art fair returns to the capital this autumn,
it’s time to explore the many new residential developments
that place creativity firmly in the frame
HARCOURT HOUSE, W1
Occupying a prime spot just a short stroll from
both Mayfair and Regent’s Park, this imposing
Edwardian building is now a collection of 25
apartments, ranging from two to five bedrooms.
The 3.6-metre-high ceilings make them perfect
for art collectors. From £5.85 million.
Knight Frank: 020 7861 5461 One particularly elegant example is relocation of the charity Tannery Arts to the
Harcourt House in Marylebone, pictured site – a new gallery space, studios and an arts
above, a collection of apartments with hub are in the process of being completed,
unusually high ceilings that r plenty of and will attract a variety of painters, sculptors
wall space for even the most monumental and mixed-media practitioners to the area.
E
very October, London becomes a city
d with art, as Frieze London works. Overlooking Cavendish Square, the Residents at London Square Bermondsey
and Frieze Masters attract dealers, Grade II-listed property is subdivided into will have the opportunity to see the artists at
collectors and artists from around the 25 spacious apartments, starting from 1,722 work in the studios, as well as being able to
globe. Some of the capital’s most exciting square feet. attend exhibitions in the gallery spaces.
new developments either have paintings or Over in Bermondsey, creative types will At Chelsea Barracks, the 19th-century
sculpture as focal points, or simply provide be drawn to London Square, a landmark former garrison chapel that sits at the heart
ideal blank canvases on which to curate a development that has art at its core, and spans of the 12.8-acre development is being trans-
collection of your own. three separate buildings. Next year will see the formed into a gallery and community space to
ONE CROWN PLACE,
EC2
Designed by Studio Ashby,
the residents’ lounge of
One Crown Place features
a collection of artworks from
local galleries and artists.
For those who work in the
City and love the vibrancy
PHOTOGRAPH: Ingrid Rasmussen
TWENTY GROSVENOR
SQUARE, W1
Overlooking one of London’s
largest garden squares, these
37 apartments have been
designed to a remarkably high
standard. With service and
amenities provided by Four
Seasons, they represent the
height of luxury, at one of
Mayfair’s top addresses.
From £17.5 million.
Twenty Grosvenor Square:
020 3019 0630
100 SYDNEY STREET, SW1
The apartments at this brand-
new development just off the
King’s Road in Chelsea are bright
and airy, making them perfect for
displaying art. The eight residences
have high ceilings, oak floors, and
spacious dressing rooms with
walnut joinery. POA.
100 Sydney Street: 020 7629 0239
Nr Boconnoc, Cornwall
Main A38 3 miles, Fowey (via Boddinnick Ferry) 7 miles, Bodmin Parkway main line station 8 miles, Liskeard 9 miles
An exquisite, private property, with a long drive and set in 20 acres of gardens and pasture. 4 bedrooms, kitchen-dining room with AGA,
guest suite, party barn and pool. 5,011 sqft, EPC E
JONATHAN
CUNLIFFE jonathancunliffe.co.uk
t 01753 316115
m 07734 210023
e natalie@kaicarterestates.com
C H A R T E R S E S TAT E
S UN N I NG HI LL , B ER KS HI R E
“ Charters offers a L U X U R Y P E N T H O U S E A PA R T M E N T I N
A S E C U R E , G AT E D 2 4 A C R E E S TAT E
unique lifestyle 24 hour security and concierge
for discerning Extensive leisure facilities
Dream Team
From left,
Chloe Leefe,
Hannah Aykroyd,
Edward Towers
and Sophie Bonsor
IN PURSUIT OF PERFECTION
Leveraging their under-the-radar network with utter dedication
to delivering for clients, Aykroyd & Co are independent advisors who act solely on
the acquisition of top-notch residential property in Prime Central London
I
f you are looking to buy your dream home clients time, money and make the emotional
in Prime Central London, a buying agent is experience of connecting to a new home as
not so much a luxury as a necessity. “We are enjoyable as possible. So much so that the team
currently in a highly competitive seller’s has expanded to meet demand: Aykroyd,
market for best in class family houses and Sophie Bonsor and Edward Towers MRICS
large apartments, and the result is the majority have been joined by experienced agent Chloe
of these properties are not being openly Leefe and associate Suzie Goodhew. Each
marketed,” says Hannah Aykroyd. “More than agent works with only four or five clients. It is a
70 per cent of homes we are acquiring for time-intensive process uncovering and
clients are quietly off-market. We regularly end previewing properties, employing a tried-and-
up in tense best bid situations against other tested team of professionals to assess all
buying agents. If you are not represented, you potential challenges, overseeing every element
don’t stand a chance.” of a transaction until completion and beyond.
As a case in point, Aykroyd tells of acquiring As a law graduate, Aykroyd herself is known
a property in Holland Park for clients who for her attention to detail and a comprehensive
undertook an unsuccessful solo search for understanding of the conveyancing process.
nearly five years. “They retained us three “Speed is critical. We usually offer five
months ago and last week we exchanged on working day exchanges so we will work solidly
a beautiful family house. The education until we have safely done so, with often a long
process is a key part of what we offer, writing completion. And we always encourage our
comparable reports on properties, giving clients to write a personal note to accompany
people transparency on market prices. Our an offer letter to create a human connection.”
WARD & CO INTERIORS, RANDLE SIDDELEY
role is not just about sourcing, it’s about giving Equally, as objective advisors, they can
clients the confidence to offer what they need diffuse situations where emotions are running
in order to secure a property.” high and are not afraid of tackling comp-
Independent, experienced and forensic in licated matters on behalf of private clients
deploying their due-diligence know-how, or investors.
Aykroyd & Co holds an unparalleled reputation
as a stellar boutique operation. They save aykroydco.com
B R I TA I N | P R O P E R T Y
NOTEBOOK
A round-up of the latest property news,
at home and abroad
RIVIERA LIVING
Monaco’s largest-ever residential development, Testimonio II, is currently under way,
and at its heart is Bay House, which will comprise 61 spacious residences designed
with families in mind. Built by the developers behind Tour Odéon – the principality’s LATER LIFE LUXURY
tallest high-rise – the properties at Bay House include five rooftop villas of up to 2,500 Few retirement properties are as stylish as those in Auriens Chelsea.
square metres, which are incredibly rare for Monaco, where space is at such a premium. The 56 apartments have light-filled interiors with smoked-oak floors,
In a place that’s home to more millionaires and billionaires than anywhere else in the bookmatched marble and wood-panelled walls – they’ve also been
world, these apartments stand out as the pinnacle of luxury. The development is set for designed for independent living and are intelligently future-proofed.
completion in 2024. From €17.5 million. With on-site restaurants and bars, a cinema, a gym, a spa and a private
For more information, visit www.bayhouse.mc garden, there’s plenty to do within the development, and the King’s Road
is a short stroll away. ‘In everything we do, we believe in challenging the
perceptions around age,’ says David Meagher, CEO of Auriens Group. ‘The
people living here will be trailblazers for a new form of later life living.’
For more information, visit www.auriens.com
Located in the heart of Zone 1 and within easy reach of Old Street,
the City and Shoreditch, 250 City Road is a landmark development
with five-star residents’ facilities, including a leisure suite with pool,
rooftop gym, yoga studio and terrace along with a screenings room,
reading room, games room and 24-hour concierge.
SCAN HERE
TO LEARN
MORE ABOUT
250 CITY ROAD
*Price correct at time of going to print and subject to availability. Computer generated images of 250 City Road are indicative only.
B R I TA I N | P R O P E R T Y
WEEKEND
RETREATS
Now more than ever, a countryside bolt-hole is top of many
people’s wish lists – here are five of the best,
from S stershire
T
here’s nothing like escaping the open countryside. There’s a walled kitchen
city at the weekend – especially garden, paddocks and two former garages
if you’ve got a bucolic country that are currently being used as a gym but
cottage waiting for you. England sitting room, and upstairs, a triple-aspect could easily be converted into a home .
is filled with charming rural spots – many of main bedroom with views across the River There’s also a vegetable garden, an orchard,
them within a few hours’ drive of the capital. Till. The gardens, too, make the most of the a paddock and chicken pens, so there’s plenty
Since the pandemic hit, country cottages riverside setting: the green-fingered current of opportunity to try self- ncy.
have been more in demand than ever, and owners have created herbaceous borders that Down in Cornwall, there’s a very rent
tend to sell fast, so anyone seeking a second brim with roses, tulips and lavender. It’s also kind of weekend retreat for sale – an old
home will need to move quickly when it a haven for wildlife – you can spot herons, chapel set on the Carclew Estate near Truro.
comes to securing the perfect place. kingfishers and swans from your front door. Surrounded by rolling countryside and
At the edge of the little Wiltshire village of Meanwhile, Winkworth is selling a 16th- located at the end of a tree-lined driveway,
Winterbourne Stoke, Till Cottage is tucked century farmhouse in a tiny village near the Grade II*-listed building, with its high,
away down a long track, and is a particularly Ipswich. It’s been painted a traditional shade arched windows and carved stone pediments,
charming two-storey house made from cob of S pink and is steeped in atmosphere, looks like something that’s sprung straight
and thatch. The interiors are as chocolate- with flagstone floors and ancient beamed out of a gothic novel. Buy any one of these
box pretty as the exterior, with an Aga in ceilings. The Grade II-listed house sits in properties, and it’s likely that you’ll end up
the kitchen, an inglenook fireplace in the a conservation area, and has views across making it your full-time home.
COOPERS FARM,
SUFFOLK
This 16th-century house
comes with an acre of land,
and is full of character. It has
four bedrooms, with timber
beams and vaulted ceilings,
inglenook fireplaces and a
kitchen that’s been recently
renovated but retains its
period charm. £875,000.
Winkworth: 01787 326740-
STABLE COTTAGE,
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
In the charming village of
Winchcombe, just
a 10-minute drive from
Cheltenham, is this three-
bedroom terraced house.
Built of Cotswold stone, it has
a traditional period façade
and is set well back from the
road, with gardens to the
front and rear. £550,000.
Knight Frank: 01242 246951
TUMBLY, DEVON
This thatched cottage enjoys one of the best positions on Dartmoor,
with complete privacy yet spectacular views that stretch for miles. Sitting
on 1.6 acres of land, the Grade II-listed property has three bedrooms, a
library and a number of outbuildings. Offers over £850,000.
Knight Frank: 01392 848842
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