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Josephine

Crochet pattern

@manuskacrochet 1
MATERIALS

• 2.25 mm - 1/B crochet hook

• 5 different yarns for 2.25 mm crochet hook

• leftover black yarns

• Tapestry or large sewing needle

• Stitch marker (optional, I use yarn)

• Fiberfill stuffing



YARNS 


• Fibra Natura Cotton True Sport - 14 (body)

• Fibra Natura Cotton True Sport - 04 (hair)

• Fibra Natura Cotton True Sport - 18 (underwear, bunny)

• Himalaya Perlina - 50134 (dress)

• Fibra Natura Cotton True Sport - 13 (bunny)

@manuskacrochet 2
Finished size and gauge
Josephine is approximately 19 cm / 7.5 inches tall. Exact gauge is not necessary
for this project. If you use a bigger hook, she will be bigger. Her measurements
will change depending on the hook and yarn you use. It’s important to crochet
tight, to avoid the stuffing showing up after filling.

Notes and abbreviations


The pattern is written in US American crochet terms. You will use these stitches:


st = stitch

ch = chain

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet 

hdb = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

sk = skip 

BLO = back loops only

FLO = front loops only

FO = fasten off

Yo = yarn over

Rep = repeat

dec = decrease 

inc = increase 


Invisible decrease: A method of decreasing. Insert hook into the front loop of the
next two stitches and pull a loop up through both. Yarn over and pull through last
two loops left on the hook.

Josephine is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise instructed.

@manuskacrochet 3
Pattern

Head
Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6) (Instead of a
magic ring, you can form a ring with ch 3)
Rnd 2. 2 sc in each sts around (12) 

Rnd 3. {sc in the next, inc} rep 6 (18) 

Rnd 4. {sc in the next 2, inc} rep 6 (24) 

Rnd 5. {sc in the next 3, inc} rep 6 (30) 

Rnd 6. {sc in the next 4, inc} rep 6 (36) 

Rnd 7. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 6 (42) 

Rnd 8. {sc in the next 6, inc} rep 6 (48)

Rnd 9-19 sc into each stitch around (48)

Rnd 20. {sc in the next 6, dec} rep 6 (42)

Rnd 21. {sc in the next 5, dec} rep 6 (36)

Rnd 22. {sc in the next 4, dec} rep 6 (30)

Rnd 23. {sc in the next 3, dec} rep 6 (24)

Rnd 24. {sc in the next 2, dec} rep 6 (18)

Start to stuff the head

Rnd 25. {sc in the next st, dec} rep 6 (12)

Continue to stuff the head firmly 

Rnd 26. sc into each st around FLO (12)


Body

Rnd 27. {sc in the next 2, inc} rep 4 (16)
 Rnd 28.

Rnd 28. BLO {sc in the next 3, inc} rep 4 (20)



Rnd 29. sc into each (20)

Rnd 30. {sc in the next 4, inc} rep 4 (24)

Rnd 31. sc into each (24) 

Rnd 32. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 4 (28) 

Rnd 33-36. sc into each (28)

Rnd 37. {sc in the next 6, inc} rep 4 (32)

Rnd 38-41. sc into each (32)

Fasten off and weave end. You will cont with the
underwear after making the dress.
@manuskacrochet 4
Front loops

Dress

Now go back to Rnd 28 of the body where you can see there the front loops
wherein we’re going to start crocheting the dress. Join with a sc. Finish each row
of the dress with a sl st, than ch 1 before you start the following rows. Ch 1
doesn’t count as a sc.
Row 1. {sc in the next, inc} rep 8 (24)

Row 2. sc into each (24) 

Row 3. {sc in the next 3, inc} rep 6 (30) 

Row 4-6. sc into each (30)



Finish each row with a sl st, than ch 3 before you
start the following rows. Ch 3 COUNTS as a dc.

Row 7. BLO {dc, inc} rep 15 (45)

Row 8-15. dc into each (45) 



@manuskacrochet 5
Change to white yarn. 

Row 16. Join with a sc, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc into next, {ch 2, sk 1 st, sc into next}
rep all along. Join with a sl st when you reach the firs sc. 

Change back to purple yarn. 

Row 17. ch 1 {sc, 2 dc, sc} into the ch 2 space all along (22 shells) 

Fasten off, weave ends. 


For the tier count 15-15 stitches on both sides from the
back at row 7 of the dress (where you can find the front
loops). Place two pins. Turn the doll upside down. With
white yarn ch 20 and join with a sl st into the front loop of
the dress. Crochet slip stitches all along into the front
loops, and when you reach the other marker crochet 

ch 20. Fasten off and make a nice bow.

@manuskacrochet 6
Under wear

Turn the doll’s dress up and with white yarn join with a sc
at the back of the doll’s body.
Rnd 1-2. sc into each (32)

Rnd 3. {sc in the next 6, dec} rep 4 (28) 

Rnd 4. sc into each (28)

Rnd 5. {sc in the next 5, dec} rep 4 (24)

Rnd 4. sc into each (24)

Fasten off and start to stuff the body.

Legs

Now you need to mark the places where you will start to The bow is
in the middle
crochet the legs. 

Place the doll in front of you, flatten it and mark the
places of the legs: 9 stitches for both legs and 3-3
stitches between them on both sides. The bow of the
dress should be in the middle (of the legs) while you
mark the places. 

Left leg Right leg
With skin colour join with a sc for the doll’s leg. When
you reach your marker just simply join the other side
with a sc.
 3 st here


Row 1-16. sc into each (9)
Cont to stuff the body and start to stuff the leg.

9 st here 9 st here
When you reach your
marker just simply join
the other side with a sc.


@manuskacrochet 7
Now place the doll in front of you, and mark the two
middle stitches next to each other in front of the doll’s
leg, as shown in the picture. In the following round you
will have to increase where you marked those stitches:

Rnd 17. inc into the marked stitches and sc into
each of the others (11)
Rnd 18. inc into each stitches you increased at rnd
17, sc into each of the other st (15)
Rnd 19. sc into each (15)
Rnd 20. dec each st, sc into last (8)

Stuff the leg firmly, fasten off and leave a long tail for
sewing. Use the yarn and a needle to close up the hole
by stitching back and forth across the opening. Weave
yarn into the legs.

Make the other leg
by joining at the
back of the doll.

Before you start the other


leg, close the three stitches
hole between the two legs.

Arms

Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Rnd 2. {sc into 2, inc} rep 2 (8)

Rnd 3-4. sc into each (8)

Rnd 5. {sc into 2, dec} rep 2 (6)

Rnd 6-17. sc into each (6)


Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing. 

Place the arms onto the body, secure them with a few
pins and sew them carefully onto their place.

@manuskacrochet 8
Hair
Work into BLO all along crocheting the wig. 

Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Rnd 2. 2 sc in each sts around (12) 

Rnd 3. {sc in the next st, inc} rep 6 (18) 

Rnd 4. {sc in the next 2, inc} rep 6 (24) 

Rnd 5. {sc in the next 3, inc} rep 6 (30) 

Rnd 6. {sc in the next 4, inc} rep 6 (36) 

Rnd 7. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 6 (42) 

Rnd 8. sc into each (42) Do not fasten off.

(*Ch 20, turn to 2nd ch from hook with a sl st, and sl st all along back (19) Make
one more hair strand into the same stitch.*)

{Join with a sl st into the next st of the wig and repeat (**)} 5 times (12 hair strands
in 6 stitches of the wig)

One more hair


strand into the
same st

Join with a sl st
into the next st
and make two

For the following 12 stitches of the wig you will make only one hair strand into each
st: Ch 20, turn to 2nd ch from hook with a sl st, and sl st all along back
(all in all: 24 hair strands in 18 stitches of the wig) 

For the following 6 stitches of the wig you will make 2 hair strands into each st: 

Ch 20, turn to 2nd ch from hook with a sl st, and sl st all along back

(all in all: 36 hair strands in 24 stitches of the wig) 

@manuskacrochet 9
12 hair strands 12 hair strands
in 6 sitches in 6 stitches

12 hair strands
in 12 sitches

For the following 18 stitches of the wig you


will make the bangs:

(*Ch 10, turn to 2nd ch from hook with a sl
st, and sl st all along back*) (9)
{Join with a sl st into the next st of the wig
and repeat (**)} 17 times (36 long hair
strands in 24 stitches of the wig and 18
short hair strands in 18 stitches of the wig)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Place the hair onto the doll’s head and secure it with a few pins. Sew it carefully
onto the head where the wig meets the hair strands.

Now secure the hair strands onto the head with pins and sew the top part of the
strands onto the head with a few stitches. The 6-6 stitches where you crocheted
the 2 hair strands, sew only every second strand onto the head. Sew the bangs
onto the head as well.

@manuskacrochet 10
Eyes & nose

Place two-two pins between rnds 15 and 16 for the eyes as shown in the pictures.
The eyes are 6 stitches apart. Embroider the eyes with black yarn as shown.


2 stitches 2 stitches
between between
the pins the pins

@manuskacrochet 11
For the nose place two pins between rounds 17 and 18, two stitches apart from
the second lashes of the eyes. Embroider the nose with body colour.

Hat
Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6) 

Try to crochet
Rnd 2. {sc in the next st, inc} rep 3 (9) 
 the hat loosely.
Rnd 3-4. sc into each st around (9) 

Rnd 5. {sc in the next 2, inc} rep 3 (12) 

Rnd 6-9. sc into each st around (12)

Rnd 10. {sc in the next 3, inc} rep 3 (15) 

Rnd 11-13. sc into each st around (15) 

Rnd 14. {sc in the next 4, inc} rep 3 (18)

Rnd 15-16 sc into each stitch around (18)

Rnd 17. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 3 (21)

Rnd 18-19. sc into each stitch around (21) 

Rnd 20. {sc in the next 6, inc} rep 3 (24)

Rnd 21. sc into each stitch around (24)

Rnd 22. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 4 (28)

Rnd 23. sc into each stitch around (28)
Rnd 24. {sc in the next 6, inc} rep 4 (32)


@manuskacrochet 12
Rnd 25-26. sc into each stitch around (32)

Rnd 27. {sc in the next 7, inc} rep 4 (36)

Rnd 28. sc into each stitch around (36)
 Make a pompon for the hat: 

Rnd 29. {sc in the next 5, inc} rep 6 (42)
 Grab a fork and wrap your yarn
around the prongs of your fork
Rnd 30. sc into each stitch around (42)

several times and then cut the
Rnd 31. {sc in the next 6, inc} rep 6 (48)

end of the yarn. Cut a long piece
Rnd 32. sc into each stitch around (48)
 of yarn, and thread beneath your
Rnd 33. {sc in the next 7, inc} rep 6 (54)
 yarn wraps between 2nd and 3rd
Rnd 34-38. sc into each stitch around (54)
 fork prong. Pass the other end of

 the yarn between the prongs. Pull
Fasten off, weave end. 
 both ends and tie into a tight
knot. Slip yarn bundle off the fork.
You may add some extra rounds to reach the
Snip through all the loops of yarn.
desired length for the hat.
Trim any uneven ends. 

Tie it onto the top of the hat.

@manuskacrochet 13
Little bunny

Head
Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Rnd 2. 2 sc in each sts around (12) 

Rnd 3. {sc in the next st, inc} rep 6 (18) 

Rnd 4. {sc in the next 2, inc} rep 6 (24) 

Rnd 5-8. sc into each stitch around (24)

Rnd 9. {sc in the next 2, dec} rep 6 (18)

Rnd 10. {sc in the next st, dec} rep 6 (12)

Start to stuff the head.

Rnd 11. dec all stitches (6)

Stuff the head firmly. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Use the yarn and
a needle to close up the hole by stitching back and forth across the opening.
Weave yarn into the head.

Embroider the nose onto the head. Place two pins between rnds 6 and 7, 2
stitches apart as shown in the picture.

Ears

ch 9, hdc into the 2nd ch from hook, dc into the next 5 stitches, hdc into the next 2
stitches. Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing. Place them onto the head, secure
it with a few pins and sew them carefully onto their places.

@manuskacrochet 14
Granny square for the body


Follow the diagram to crochet the body of 

the bunny. After row 5 change colour to 

pink. 


See below the written instruction.



You may add a ch 1 space between each cluster of
3 dc. There’s almost no difference between the
space made naturally between the 3 dc or the
space made with a ch 1, so that’s just really up to
you to add or not.

Rnd 1. Ch 4, and form a ring. Into the ring: 



ch 3, 2 dc, you now have a cluster of three dc because the first chain three counts as the
first dc. Chain 2: this creates the first corner. 3 dc into the ring, ch 2 to make your next
corner. Rep that previous step twice more. Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the first “chain
three” to close the round.

Rnd 2. Ch 3, 2 dc into the same corner. Into the following corner: 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc. Rep in
the next corner. 3 dc, chain two into the last corner, sl st to the 3rd ch of the first “chain
three” to close the round.


Rnd 3. Ch 3, 2 dc into the same corner. 3 dc into the next space (not a corner!). Into the
following corner: 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc. Rep the previous two steps around the square. When
you get to the last corner, 3 dc, ch 2 and sl st to the 3rd ch of the first “chain three” to
close the round.


Rnd 4-6. You can continue increasing the size of your granny square by work 3 dc, 2 ch,
3 dc in each corner and 3 dc in each space between the corners. Change colour at rnd 6. 


@manuskacrochet 15
You are ready with Josephine, the sleeping doll. I hope you enjoyed making her as
much as I enjoyed making this pattern. Don’t forget, if you have any questions or
need clarifications on any of the instructions, I’m here to help you!


I would love to see your version of Josephine, so if you’re on Instagram, 

please mention @manuskacrochet in your post. <3

© 2018 Manuska - All rights reserved.



This pattern is FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY! Please respect my rights as the designer and do not reproduce, publish
or resold the pattern or any parts of it. You can sell items made from this pattern, provided that they are handmade by
yourself and you credit me as the designer, Manuska.

@manuskacrochet 16

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