Reinforcement

UNIT 9 REINFORCEMENT
Structure
9.1 Introduction
Objectives

9.2 Need of Reinforcement

9.3 Types of Reinforcement
9.4 Summary
9.5 Key Words

9.1 INTRODUCTION
Reinforcements are used to give extra strength to the weaker areas of the shoes, which
are prone to failure. In shoe making, reinforcement are small pieces of leather or other
material or tapes which are stitched to the upper between the upper shell and lining shell
to strengthen the points where strain and stress are greatest, for example, the top lines,
back seam, punches and derby stay etc.
Different types of reinforcements are available in different shapes to suit the different
category of footwear. Now-a-days various materials like nylon, polyester, cotton, paper,
etc. are being used as reinforcement to use in footwear. Reinforcements are available in
different width and colours and thickness of reinforcement may vary from 0.2 mm to
0.5 mm. These may be either pressure sensitive or heat sensitive or self-adhesive and
may be woven, non-woven, knitted or braided.
Objectives
After studying this unit, you should be able to
• learn the use of reinforcement,
• know stress and strain areas of shoe upper, and
• select tapes for reinforcing various seams and different parts of shoes.

9.2 NEED OF REINFORCEMENT

As the name implies, reinforcements means adding strength or reinforce the material on
which they are going to be attached. Their purposes are as follows :
• Reinforces the material.
• Adds strength to the material, thus ensuring durability.
• Helps in overcoming shoemaking problems by preventing stretching of
material and support high stress areas.
• Helps in retaining the appearance/shape of the shoe.
• Enhances the final get up and appearance of the shoe.

Reinforcement Under Eyelets, Top Line and Derby Stay

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Materials

Reinforcement Under Saddle, Back Seam, Top Line and in Toe Area

Reinforcement Under Eyelets, Top Line and Oxford Stay

When shoe upper is to be made by poor or weaker material it requires some backing to
withstand during making and wearing. Thin leather or fabric is attached on flash side of
this material with the help of adhesive for necessary support. Water base and solvent base
adhesives can be used to fix the backing material as per situations.
Attaching Reinforcements
Adhesive is required to attach the reinforcement. This adhesive may be pre-coated
or applied by hand/machine at factories.
Pressure Sensitive
These are pre-coated fabrics and other material combined with a release paper. The
liner paper is removed and the adhesive side is pressed down on the required area
by hand. These are available in roll or sheet form and are cut to suit as per
requirement.
Applied Adhesive
Usually this is latex and can be applied by spray or roller.
Pre-coated materials have an advantage over the factory-applied adhesives because
of :
• Consistency, thereby making the manufacturing process easier, this results
in better bonding.
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 • On many leathers (esp. sheep and goat), the use of factory applied adhesives Reinforcement
results in the leather becoming “pipey”. This can be avoided by use of a
pre-coated reinforcement with a dis-continuous layer of adhesive.
Choice/Type of material for reinforcement depends on
• Material of upper,
• Style of upper, and
• Possible areas for reinforcement in relation to design and function.
SAQ 1
(a) What are the functions of reinforcement?
(b) On what factors choice of reinforcement depends?

9.3 TYPES OF REINFORCEMENTS

There are two types of reinforcements :
• Woven, and
• Non-woven.
Woven reinforcement material is used where upper material stretches during making and
wearing.
Non-woven reinforcement is used where material is non-stretchy and under metallic
fittings for extra strength.

Woven Reinforcement Tapes

General Reinforcement
Refers to Backers/Doublers, interlinings, etc. Backing or doubling is the addition
of a tightly woven material to the back of a thin or very stretchy outside
component.

Interlining Pressing by Iron

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Materials These help in
• Adding body especially on thin, soft leathers or making the thickness
of the component more even when increased overall thickness in the
upper is required, controlling stretch and adding strength.
• Shape retention.
• To improve appearance and wearing qualities.
• To bear the lasting pulls.
Top Line Reinforcements
These are important and must, since :
• Top line area is always being under stress and strain during lasting and
wearing the final shoe, so it may weaken and d-shape the top line of shoe
after un-lasting.
• It may stretch and cause a loose and irregular top line making it baggy. This
is called BOATING of shoes and cause the shoe to slip off while walking.
• To avoid distortion to the shoe.
• It is important for the top line reinforcement to be stitched during top line
stitching and at the back seam, otherwise the strain will not be evenly
distributed and top line may split.
• Advisable to use an extra reinforcement for extra protection like on a “V”
throat court shoe.

Top Line Reinforcement (Braided)

Reinforcement fixed on different upper components.

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Reinforcement

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Materials

SAQ 2
(a) Which area of shoes requires reinforcement?
(b) Why top line should be reinforced?

9.4 SUMMARY
In this unit, we have learned that
• Reinforcement is needed at back seams, top line, folded top line, eyelets
area, buckle strap, sandal straps and trims.
• Local reinforcement is required at localised places of upper where maximum
strain and stress is applied.
• Various materials like nylon, polyester, cotton and papers are used as
reinforcement.
• Interlining or backer is required to be attached to the back of the thin and
stretchy material.
• Top line should be reinforced to prevent it from suffering permanent stretch
and become loose.
• Straps must be reinforced as it is subjected to substantial stress during wear.
• Knitted cotton reinforcement is used where blocking is required.
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 Reinforcement
9.5 KEY WORDS
Pipeness : Shrinkage or wrinkles in leather.
Drill : A strong cotton fabric woven with parallel
diagonal lines.
Top Line : The edge of the upper rounds the throat of the shoe
or boot. Usually finished by binding or other
means.
Woven : A fabric formed by interlacing long threads
passing in one direction with others at right angle
to them.
Knitted : Fabric formed by looping yarns together by needle
or machine.
Stress : Pressure or tension exerted on the material.

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