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Waves Waves: Dr. Rer Nat. Wiwin Windupranata
Waves Waves: Dr. Rer Nat. Wiwin Windupranata
WAVES
Dr. rer nat. Wiwin Windupranata
Shipping
Coastal Constructions
Offshore Constructions
Recreations
FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES
Wave Parameters
Wave Spectrum
Wave Classification
Wave Classification
Most of the waves present on the ocean’s
surface are wind-generated waves.
Size and type of wind-generated waves are controlled by Wind
velocity, Wind duration, Fetch, and Original state of sea surface
As wind velocity increases wave length, period and height increase,
but only if wind duration and fetch are sufficient
Significant wave height is the average wave height of the highest
1/3 of the waves present and is a good indicator of potential for
wave damage
Addition of Waves
Constructive
Destructive
Mixed
coastal environmental survey windupranata@2010
Hydrographic Science and Engineering Working Group
Faculty of Earth Science and Technology
Institute of Technology, Bandung
Ideal Waves
Propagate Energy not
Water Mass
Wave Movement
Note that the water molecules in the crest of the wave move in
the same direction as the wave, but molecules in the trough
move in the opposite direction
Wave Movement
Wave Regions
Wave Speeds
Deep-Water Waves (Bottom Depth > L/2)
– Speed is a Function of Wavelength Only
– Waves with Longer Wavelength move faster than Waves
with Shorter Wavelength
Wind waves are gravity waves formed by the transfer of wind energy
into water. Wind forces convert capillary waves to wind waves.
Wave
Interference
Wave Transformations
Wave
Transformations
Surging waves occur on a very steep sloped bottom where the beach
slope exceeds wave steepness.
The wave does not really curl and break but runs up against the shore
while producing foam and large surges of water
Waves Refraction
Bending of shallow-
shallow-water wave
fronts due to change in bottom
depth
Waves Refraction
Consequence of
wave refraction:
Focusing of wave
energy on
headlands
Defocusing of
wave energy on
bays
Waves Diffraction
Waves Reflection
Waves Reflection
Storm Surge
Storm surge is the rise in sea level resulting from low
atmospheric pressure associated with storms and the
accumulation of water driven shoreward by the winds
Standing Waves
Standing waves or seiches consist of a water surface
“seesawing” back and forth
Standing Waves
Standing Waves
Internal Waves
Internal Waves
Internal waves form within the water column on the
pycnocline
Because of the small density difference between the water masses
above and below the pycnocline
pycnocline,, wave properties are different
compared to surface waves
Internal waves display all the properties of surface progressive
waves including reflection, refraction, interference, breaking, etc
Any disturbance to the pycnocline can generate internal waves,
including: flow of water related to the tides, flow of water masses
past each other, storms, or submarine landslides
Internal Waves
Internal Waves
Tsunami
Tsunami