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0The different types of prints are as follows:

Classical
This is also known as ethnic or traditional print. In this print, classical
motifs or traditional art work or traditional collections are used such as
mango, elephant with the chariots, old musical instruments etc. The
culture of any particular place can also be considered such as tie and
dye, batik, block of Rajasthan etc.

Floral
It has the print of varieties of flowers either in bunch or single spotted
huge or small, combination of leaves and other addings. Here color
combination is very important.

Stripes
One would have been different types on the garment but would not have
noticed its classifications. We have many types of stripes for instance
pin, zigzag, spiral, zebra, diagonal, horizontal, vertical, curved, lamp post
stripes etc.

Check
Checks are the prints which are got by interesting horizontal and vertical
lines at ninety degree angles. There are basically four types of checks
such as plaids, Madras, Bombay and Oxford check.

Dots
The dots are the spots either designed or plain and come in all colors of
choice. The dots are basically divided into three types as big dots, small
dots and polka dots.

Geometric
This is the print where all the geometrical instrument designs are created
and the mathematical signs are used such as plus, minus, multiplication,
division etc. There is no prescribed color combination.

Directional
Any print which is designed directionally horizontal, vertical or diagonal is
called the directional print. Its feature is to follow the direction of the first
one. This type of print is used in Egyptian dresses.

Self
Any design which has to be printed should be of the same shades of the
background color. As for example rubber prints.
Computerized
The design of this print is taken from computer graphic designs and
videogames. Can be used for children and teenagers.

Wild
The effect of the forest with or without animal, nature are used in this
types of print. Mostly dull colors are used.
Example: Camouflage fabric which is used in the uniform of the military
men at war.

Animal
In a wild print, the nature such as forest with the pictures of animals are
used but in animal print, no wild effect is shown but the importance is
given only to the skin texture of the animals and their foot prints such as
Zebra, Tiger, Deer, Snake etc.

Abstract
This print is made using the irregular shapes with matching color
scheme.

Numerical
Here the numbers from 0-9 are used. Sometimes with or without
mathematical signs.

Alphabetical
This print is made using alphabets, wording etc. but cartoons are mostly
not used as combination with this. Example: Newspaper print.

Children’s
It consists of designs which can emphasize the children’s mood such as
cartoon characters, chocolates, fruits, ice creams, toys etc.

Photo-print
The photos of the famous stars, pop singers, old cars etc. are printed on
T-shirts which are called photo-print.

Marble
This look like a marble finish. This can be made by hand in manual
process also. For this we require a wide opened pan of water, oil
paints/enamels and paper.
Indian Fabric prints: 17 fascinating fabric patterns found on
Indian fabrics

Indian prints & Patterns

 Ajrakh prints
 Bagh Prints
 Bandhni prints
 Buti prints 
 Dabu
 Batik
 Ikkat prints 
 Kalamkari prints
 Khari prints
 Leheriya prints
 Paisley prints
 Patola prints 
 Pochampalli ikat prints
 Sanganer prints
 Seyali Bagru prints
 Temple prints
 Warli prints
Ajrakh prints

This print uses motifs in intense colors like Black, yellow, crimson red,
green and indigo blue (Blue and red are the most prominent and
distinguishing colors of this print) and will also have motifs worked in
white (unprinted) and black, usually as outline – the white and black
defining the design. It is worked as a block printing technique.

Usually multiple colors are seen in the same fabric, with many different
types of motifs, including border prints. As many as 20-30 different steps
maybe involved in creating an Ajrakh printed fabric – A very labor
intensive printing process indeed. 

Bagh Prints
Another hand block print made in natural colors of Red and back
practiced in Bagh town in the Indian State of Madhya Pradesh. It is
usually made on a white background. Red color is made from alum and
black color is made from rusted iron (iron oxide). The dye is mixed with a
vegetable gum to form a paste used in this printing.

Bandhni prints

This is a print produced by a type of tie and dye technique creating small
dots all over the fabric. The fabric is tied tightly in several places with
grains inside – it is dipped in the dye solution, lighter colors first and dark
colors later.Bright colors like yellow, purple, red, magenta, green are
used. Small dots, Cirlces, diamonds and many other shapes are
obtained this way
Buti prints 

These are small motifs on the fabric – usually woven.

Dabu

Dabu is a resist technique used to create light coloured designs on a


dark background. Mud is used as the resist medium (Kali mitti -black
clay).
When the fabric is dyed, the places where the clay is applied and dried
remains uncolored.

Batik

Batik is a wax resist dyeing technique. Beautifully intricate as well as


shaded designs can be printed on the fabric using this technique.
Ikkat prints 

Ikkat prints are made using the tie and dye technique – on the yarn. In
ikkat prints you will find different motifs like flowers, animals like fish,
parrots, leaves.

Kalamkari prints

The term kalamkari derives from the Indian word kalam which means
pen. The designs of this prints looks as if it is drawn with the help of a
pen.
This printing originated in the Indian State of Andhra Pradesh and is
traditionally  block printed on fabric using organic and vegetable dyes.

Khari prints

This is a printing using metallic colors or white color. It is usually done


over hand block printed  fabrics as a special highlight.  It is also used as
a standalone print.
Leheriya prints

These are flowy long striped prints created with the tie and dye
technique.   

Paisley prints

There is a whole history behind the very famous paisley prints / Mango
prints.

Patola prints 

This refers to sari fabric prints with geometrical patterns; these are
arranged in the shape of animals/birds etc. Swans, elephants are regular
motifs in Patola fabric.
Pochampalli ikat prints

This is another print with geometrical prints and these are formed by its 
special weaving process. These wave like shapes are seen all over or
towards the border

Sanganer prints

Sanganer Prints  have beautiful delicate floral designs done on a white


(pure white or off white) background. The floral and leaf motifs of roses,
lilies, marigold , sunflowers and lotus are complimented by geometric
motifs. The outlines of the motifs are printed first and then the color is
filled in.
Seyali Bagru prints

Seyali Bagru printing is a traditional printing process followed in the


Indian state of Rajastan. It makes dark colored patterns (red, black and
sometimes blue) on a dyed or cream /yellow ocher background, all made
with natural dyes on cotton fabric. Natural motifs are interspersed with
geometrical motifs in this fascinating Indian printing.Vegetable dyes are
used through out the process.

Temple prints

These are pyramid like motifs, an abstract representation of temples of


India – usually used as a border print on Saris.

Warli prints

Warli painting is a tribal art practiced in the state of Maharashtra. These


are stylized drawings depicting the daily life of the tribal people.This art
can be seen as patterns on fabric as well.
INDIAN PRINTS AND ART THAT IS HERITAGE OF INDIA
Our Proud Country has represented lots of craft and art Indian
handlooms are one of them. India is host to a wide variety of textile arts.
Celebrated all over the world and applauded within the nation, the
handicrafts sector in India has been one worth boasting about. Different
regions boast of different textures, styles, and techniques and each has
a different method along with a unique output. Each has a distinct style
which is easily recognizable when worn.
This article will elaborate on different kind of printing and fabric dyeing
techniques in India that deserve to be preserved, promoted and
appreciated.

Bandhani

Bandhani is a tie and dye method practiced mainly in states of


Rajasthan, Gujarat, and parts of Uttar Pradesh. The word Bandhani is
derived from a Sanskrit word Banda which means “to tie”. It features
patterns like dots, stripes, waves or squares formed by first tying small
portions of the fabric at intervals with continuous thread to form
interesting patterns, and then dyeing it. The most popular Bandhni
making centers are in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Sindh, Punjab, and in Tamil
Nadu where it’s known as Sungudi. Bandhani print is often found on the
Gharchola sarees & dupattas worn by women in Gujarat and even on
the men’s turbans from Rajasthan. The basic shades of Bandhani print
are red, yellow, green and blue. However, the print can be adapted to
any color. The most commonly used fabrics for bandhani prints are silk,
cotton, cotton silk, chiffon, georgette and various other fabrics.
Batik

Batik is an ancient art which uses wax and dyes to create a visual magic
on fabrics. It is believed that the term is a derivation from the word
`Ambatik’ which when translated literally stands for a piece of cloth with
small dots or writing with wax or drawing in broken lines. Batik holds its
traces in various parts of Egypt, Indonesia, Middle East and India.
Popularly identified by little dots, Batik is an ancient wax dyeing
technique. This craft holds a special place in the hearts of Indian artisans
as well, who for ages have been designing and giving this craft a taste of
their own. Because of the enormous scope of designing patterns, This
craft provides an artistic freedom to the craftsmen. Artisans of
Cholamandalam near Chennai is said to be mavens of this craft. Batik is
also produced in parts of Gujarat, Rajasthan, West Bengal, Andhra
Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh.
A Batik creation involves 3 basic steps – waxing, dying, and scraping
( removing). Overall the process is one where firstly the wax is used for
creating designs on certain pre-defined areas on the fabric. Secondly,
the fabric is dyed and then the wax is removed by scraping or by boiling
the cloth so that the wax peels off. The result is a beautiful piece of cloth
with some very unconventional designs.

Bagh
Bagh is a unique style of block printing on handloom fabrics, the name
coming from its origin in the current form in Bagh village of Madhya
Pradesh, India. The printing technique is said to have originated after the
Khatri population decided to migrate from Sind and settle near the Bagh
River. The designs have been inspired by paintings of the Taj Mahal,
flowers, mushrooms and others. The process includes the use of
geometric designs and bright colors, and the chemical properties of the
river are used to the maximum benefit to obtain the most unique shades.
From cotton, silk, chiffon to bamboo chicks, this process can be carried
out on a variety of fabrics. The fabric after removal of starch is made to
undergo what is known as the “Bhatti process” which includes boiling,
drying and subsequently printing.

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Kalamkari

Kalamkari is an ancient style of hand printing that is done on cotton or


silk fabric with a tamarind pen used with natural dyes. The word is
derived from a Persian word where ‘Kalam’ means pen and ‘kari’ means
craftsmanship. The art involves 23 tedious steps of dying, bleaching,
hand painting, block printing, scratching, cleaning and many more steps.
The motifs of Kalamkari are mostly flower, peacock, paisley along with
divine characters of Hindu epics like Mahabharata and Ramayana.
These days this art is done to create Kalamkari Saris.
The process involves 23 steps. From the natural process of bleaching
the fabric, softening, sun drying, preparing natural dyes, hand painting to
the process es of air drying and washing, the entire procedure requires
precision and an eye for detailing. This art primarily uses Earthy colors
like Indigo, mustard, rust, black and green. Natural dyes are used to
paint, these colors are extracted from natural sources with no use of
chemicals and artificial material.

Ajrak

Ajrak is the perfect combination of handloom textiles and vegetable


dyes. The word Ajrak is derived from an Arabic word “Ajrak” which
means “blue” as blue happens to be one of the principal colors in Ajrak
printing and it is one of the oldest printed fabric known to man. Ajrak
found in Sindhi; Kutch, Gujarat; and Barmer, Rajasthan in India. It
displays special designs and patterns made using block printing by
stamps. Common colors used while making these patterns over the
years, Ajrak have become a symbol of the Sindhi culture and traditions.
Ajrak printing is a long process involving many stages of printing and
washing the fabric over and over again with various natural dyes. The
entire process can take up to two weeks resulting in the creation of the
beautiful eye-catching pattern of the arak.

Dabu
Dabu block printing, also known as mud resist printing, is a traditional
Rajasthani craft. The mud resists technique prevents the color from
entering the parts that are covered, giving the design a layered effect.
Calcium hydroxide, also known as chuna in Hindi, naturally pounded
wheat chaff and gum are the main ingredients that go into making the
mud resist. The paste is applied onto a fabric that’s laid out on a flat or a
running table and block prints are applied. The print gets its name from
‘dabana’ meaning ‘to press’. The cloth is then thoroughly washed to
wash off the mud and reveal the prints. This community is famous for
producing vibrant fabrics that are lovingly woven into ghagras, cholis,
turbans and so much more.

Gold and Silver Dust

A traditional form of printing, ‘Chandi Ki Chhapai’ or ‘Silver Printing’ is a


delicate way of embellishing clothes or fabrics. Also called ‘Varak Gold
or Silver Leaf Printing’, this kind of printing uses varaks made by
flattening gold or silver into a thin paper-like consistency. These thin
sheets of silver are also used to garnish Indian sweets. In ancient times,
it was hand printed onto flags, royal tents and other insignias of power to
reflect the status and prestige of the possessor. It is a popular
embellishment in holy shrines and temples today. The technique of
varak block printing is extremely rare today and there are only two
printers who do this in Jaipur. Today, silver and gold leaf printing can be
seen on rich Chanderi sarees and dupattas, done by some of the finest
craftsmen in the country.

Bagru
Bagru block printing has been alive for centuries creating some of the
best Indian prints. A tediously long process that involves creating wash
resistant prints, the craft boasts of master craftsmen who have been
dedicated to it for over 30 years now. Exacting, but ultimately beautiful,
the Bagru block printing technique is all natural, right from the dye to the
wooden blocks and is celebrated all over the world for their simplicity
and effortless elegance.

Ikat

Ikat is actually a dyeing technique rather than a print or pattern. This


popular art form involves a dyeing technique that is used to dye the
yarns before weaving them into a fabric. Ikat patterning ranges from the
simple star or checks patterns to full figurative imagery done in many
colors. Such ikats, especially when worked in silk, are among the most
costly and prestigious of textiles. It uses a resist dyeing process, quite
similar to tie-dye, to create patterns on textiles. This technique uses
either the warp or weft to weave a pattern or design. When both warp
and weft are tie-dyed then it is called double Ikat. Individual yarns or
bundles of yarns are bound with a tight wrapping in the chosen design
and then dyed to create the desired pattern. A characteristic of Ikat is its
blurriness as it requires immense skill on the part of the craftsman to line
the threads in place. The less blurry it is, the more time, effort and skill
has gone into it and the more expensive it is. Ikat is popularly woven in
Gujarat and Telangana.

Sanganeri

Sanganeri, a kind of block printing that originated in Rajasthan, adorns


home decor materials as well as apparel. This craft developed over the
ages and saw contributions when people from neighboring states like
Gujarat migrated due to wars. A hand printing technique which involves
laying out of the material on tables and then printing using blocks with
intricate designs. The fabric is marked before, so that symmetry of
design is maintained. Beautiful floral designs with buds, flowers, leaves,
mangoes and even jhumkas sometimes are part of the detailed designs
on the blocks.

Leheriya
A simple dyeing technique popular in Rajasthan, it results in striped
textiles in a huge variety of bright colors. Cotton or silk cloth is subjected
to resist dyeing.
In earlier times, five different colors were used, and natural dyes were
the chosen form of colors. The technique is named after the pattern it
forms, that is, waves, which is called Leheriya in Rajasthan. The cloth is
tied and folded in a manner that the color is applied only in a particular
pattern on the textile.

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