What is bandhni?

Bandhani is a technique of tie and dye. As the name suggests, the technique of Tie and Dye involves two
stages: tying sections of a length of cloth (silk or cotton) and then dunking it into vats of colour. The
rainbow-tinged turbans of the Rajputs and the odhnis of their women are shaded by this method of
resist dyeing.

The term “bandhani” derives its name from the Hindi word Bandhan which means tying up. Bandhani is
an ancient art practised by people mainly of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Jaipur, Udaipur, Bikaner and Ajmer
and Jamnagar are among the important centres producing odhnis, saris and turbans in bandhani. The
wide variety was evolved over the centuries because of its close links with the religious and social
customs of different people. Bandhani work involves tying and dyeing of pieces of cotton or silk cloth.
The main colours used in Bandhani are yellow, red, green and black. Bandhani work, after the processing
is over, results into a variety of symbols including, dots, squares, waves and strips. The main colours used
in Bandhani are natural. In fact all colours in bandhani are dark, Rajasthan is one of the most important
centers of the tie and dye textile. Each area, each caste and each tribe has its special designs.

Tying of the border is a special process known as sevo bandhavo. The border is tied according to the
desired pattern by passing the thread from one end to the other in loose stitch so as to bring the entire
portion together by pulling the thread from one end. The border portion is then covered up. Some
sarees have broad matching and contrasting borders. The same applies also to the pallus.'Bandhani' is a
Sanskrit word which means 'to tie' .Bandhani means ready material and the process. It is a traditional art
of tying the fabric first and then dyeing the fabric with blocks, weaving and printing are the ways of
decorating an Odhana1 Tie-dye is a process of resist dyeing textiles or clothing which is made from knit
or woven fabric, usually cotton; typically using bright colors (Anonymous, 2009). This art is used to make
simple and complicated design in different colours on odhanas. Various patterns are made like round,
square, wave, triangular, dott etc.

Some of the popular patterns used in Rajasthan are suwabil tribundi, line sangam, peela laddu Chundari,
Dabbi Kashmir ki kali, ohonider motaba, jalbar, Khat Sammandar, Panchrangi, Patti pallu, Janzeer,
Denedar, Bedder etc. Rajasthan is known as the “Land of Kings” is India's largest state by area or 10.4%
of India's total area. It is located on the north western side of the India, where it comprises most of the
wide and inhospitable. In India Bandhani technique began around 5000 years ago. In the 14th century
Jain Lord Mahavira was seen in a Bandhej fabric draped around the waist well known centers for
producing Bandhani fabric are in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Maharastha, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and
Madhya Pradesh. The art was practiced by a Muslim (Khatri) Community. Fabric was worn by the tribes
of Gujarat and Rajasthan mainly Bhils, Rathwa and Rabaris, Bharwards respectively as their traditional
clothing on the Contrary the Bandhani clothing was also used by the Royal Clan of Rajasthan.
HISTORY
The history of dyeing can be dated back to pre-historic times. This art finds its mentions in the Alexander
the great time texts about the beautiful printed cottons of India. As per evidences in Historical Texts, the
first Bandhani saree was worn at the time of Bana Bhatt`s Harshacharita in a royal marriage. It was
believed that wearing a Bandhani saree can bring good future to a bride. Ajanta walls stand for the
evidences of these Bandhani sarees. The dyers have experimented with the use of different elements
both natural and man made for ages. Also there are experiments with different binding/tying techniques
to create patterns on cloth immersed in containers of dye. Different types of tie and dyes have been
practiced in India, Japan, and Africa for centuries. Tie-dye became fully developed in China during the
T’ang dynasty (618-906 A.D.) and in Japan during the Nara period (552-794 A.D.).

The term `Bandhani` is derived from the word `Bandhan` that means tying up. It is an ancient art practise
that is mainly used in the state of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Some 5000 years ago Indian Tie & Dye or
Bandhani was started. Places in Rajasthan like Jaipur, Sikar, Bhilwara, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and
Jamnagar in Gurjarat are the well known centres producing odhnis, sarees and turbans in Bandhani.
Different communities in Rajasthan have for ages followed the tradition on tying turbans with different
patterns of bandhani on their heads. These were used to identify which community the person belonged
to.In the early days dyes were extracted from roots, flowers, leaves, and berries.

Bandhani work in India was started by the Muslim Khatri Community of Kutch. The tradition has passed
from one generation to the other. The art of Bandhani is highly skilled process. The technique involves
dyeing a fabric which is tied tightly with a thread at several points , thus producing a variety of patterns
like Leheriya, Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. The final
products are known with various names like Khombi, Ghar Chola, Patori and also Chandrokhani etc.

Colors use in bandhni dying.

The main colours used in Bandhani are yellow, green, red, pink, and black. The colors commonly used
signify different things like – red, a symbol of marriage, saffron, a color worn by yogi who has renounced
the world, yellow, which stands for spring and black and maroon, used for mourning.

Bandhni material is sold folded and with the knots tied. One has to pull the folds apart for the knots to
open. The payment is made according to the number of dots in the pattern. An intricate design in a sari
would have approximately 75000 dots. What is essential in bandhni is the minute and skillful
manipulation of the fingers for tying, extensive knowledge of color schemes and skill in dyeing materials.
It takes several years for a craftsman to perfect his skill. Bandhni saris and dupattas are available at most
shops all over India but to get the authentic material, it is advisable to buy it from Rajasthan or Gujarat
or their emporiums outlets in major cities around India.
Tie and dye cloth is never too expensive but be warned that the colours always run. So if you’ve bought
silk, it’s safer to get it dry-cleaned.

Major Centers Of Tie And Dye in India

The centers of tie and dye fabrics, especially in Gujarat are Jamnagar in Saurashtra (the water in this area
brings out the brightest red while dying), and Ahmedabad. The finest bandhni work of Rajasthan comes
from Bikaner, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Barmer, Pali, Udaipur and Nathdwara. Rajasthan is well known for its
leheriya pattern – literally meaning waves. These are harmoniously arranged diagonal stripes, which
were originally, dyed in the auspicious colors of yellow and red. Pochampalli is also one of the three main
traditional yarn-dyeing centers in the country. The process of making bandhni (tie and dye) varies in
Gujarat and Rajasthan. Even the patterns, designs and craftsmanship vary in both the regions. The
craftsmen from Rajasthan are easily recognized because they grow a nail on their little finger to facilitate
the lifting of cloth for tying or wear a small metal ring with a point. The Gujarati craftsmen prefer to work
without these aids. The flow is much better when one works with one’s bare hands as it assures no
damage to the cloth. The dyeing and printing of textiles has become a highly developed craft in Gujarat.
Bandhni, a form of tie-resist dyeing and patola are two outstanding examples of the Indian dyer’s art.

The Making of Bandhani

The process starts by drawing a design on stencil paper that is then punched with needles. A fugitive dye
is then brushed through the paper, imprinting the design directly on the fabric.

The base fabric can be fine silk or cotton, or even wool. A fine silk cloth can be folded in two for a
symmetrical design or to make two scarves, thereby saving time. The tying of the pattern with thread to
form the resist is next. This step is generally women’s work as it is portable; men do the dyeing.

Most widely used is the simple dot (bindi) which is formed by pinching a small area of cloth and tightly
wrapping cotton in one continuous connect-the-dots around the raised parts. Using a metal tube
through which the cotton thread is fed facilitates the winding around the dots. Once the wrapping is
complete, the fabric goes into the dye bath, the dye squished into the fabric to make sure it penetrates.

The binding resists the dye from reaching that part of the cloth so when the thread is removed, the
undyed circle is revealed. Once the scarf is dyed and dried, the knotting is removed simply by pulling on
both ends of the cloth.

Steps Involved

The area dyed is outlined using fugitive colours. Then place a transparent thin sheet of plastic, which has
pin holes over this area of the fabric and using fugitive colours transfer an imprint of the desired pattern
onto the fabric.
The artisans then pulls on a small area of the fabric where there is an imprint of hole and winds thread
tightly around the protruding cloth to form a knot or bhindi. The thread generally used is nylon thread.

After tying the knots the fabric is thoroughly washed to remove the imprint. The cloth is then dipped in
napthol for five minutes and dyed in yellow or another light color for two minutes.

Next it is rinsed, squeezed, dried and then tied again and dipped in a darker color.

Bandhani is one of the famous textile patterns in India. Bandhani of Gujarat is very famous in India. It’s
traditional

textile of Gujarat. Wadhwan city in Surendranagar district has largest production of these textiles. In
Wadhwan

town around 75% of families work in this profession. The process of making one Bhandhani is long. This
process

is complicated and there are so many different skilled craft’s men and women are involved in it. In this
project

I have covered the process of Bhandhani making and how everybody is involve in it and their role in
process of

making Bandhni.
City of Wadhwan is situated in Surendranagar district of Gujarat. Wadhwan produces largest amount of
Bandani materials in Gujarat. The Bandhani products of Wadhwan are affordable to common people.
75% of Wadhwan population is engaged in this business in one or the other way. Business of Bandhani
was started in wadhwan by the Brahmkshtriya (Khatri) community and still most of the brahmkshtriyas
are involved in this business. Now days other communities are also getting involved in this business.
Main reason for this is that Wadhwan’s bandhani is famous in Gujarat and in other parts of India. Water
of Wadhwan is one of the key reason for the development of this business here. Wadhwan is also the
place where the Bandhani was born. Wadhwan’s soil was also a reason for development of this business.
In olden days when colours where made from the natural elements the soil of Wadhwan had widest
range of colours available at that time. Later with time, due to modernization and competition now they
do not use the natural colour any more. The bandhani of Wadhwan was so famous that other royal
families of the state and country also use to buy bandhani from Wadhwan. Surendranagar produces high
amount of quality cotton, so good quality cloths were also available here. Because of these reasons
Wadhwan and It’s Bandhani are famous.

Wholesaler buys the cloth from the market and sends it to the person who transfers the design on the
cloths. As soon as cloths arrives this person, cut the cloth according to the design. Since Bandhani is a
textile pattern one can make Panjabi Dress as well as Saree from bandhani. So the cloth is cut according
to the kind of the dress it will be. The cloth from the wholesaler comes in different sizes of width and
length according to their requirement. The person who cuts the cloth he is the one who transfers design
on the cloth. Hence after cutting he sits to transfer the design through Farma.
Farma is a transparent plastic sheet, on which the design is created first. This design is created Either by
Professional Designer or by Wholesaler or sometimes by the craft peoplethemselves. In this case, the
craft person is the designer and he sells his design to the wholesaler. Oncethe design is approved they
create small pin holes in the plastic sheet. With the help of these pin holes Design is transferred on the
cloth.

Once the Farma is ready they lay bundle of the cut cloth on the ground. Then they put Farma on top of
it. Then with the help of the colour water and Squeeze they transfer the design on cloth. Since the size of
the cloth is big, for good transfer, this process requires two people to do it. Once the Design transfer is
done this person sends this transferred cloth to the wholesaler who, later Distributes to the ladies who
during their free time do the “Bandhej” work.
Once the design is transferred and delivered to the wholesaler, he distributes this cloths to the Ladies.
Bandhejis mostly done by women. These women come to the wholesaler everyday to collect the new
design for Bandhej and to return the ready Bandhej which then goes for colouring. When these ladies
come to collect the cloth for Bandhej, along with the cloth, they are provided with thread rolls. These
ladies have accounts with the wholesaler. He writes and maintains the account for them and pays them
accordingly. The payment of these Bandhej is decided by ladies after looking at the design and detail of
the work. Smaller the Bandhej more charge and it also varies on the amount of Bandhej needed to be
done. In the next chapter I will be explain the porcess of Bandhej.

Bandhej means tieing knots in the specific pattern. This knot is tied because when this tied cloth goes to
colour this knot doesn’t let that part catch colour so it stays white or whatever colour of cloth has.
Bandhej is the main part of the bandhani making. Bandhej is the process which is repeated many times
in the making of one Bandhani. Every bandani mostly has bandhej two times. First time when it’s
distributed to Ladies for bandej and then when it goes colour. If the bandhani has two colours as base
colour then the people who colour the cloth, also tie a big bandhej which is different than the small
bandhej done by ladies based on design. Basically there are two types of Bandhej:
• Bandhej for design

• Bandhej for basic colour

Bandhej for Design

This Process is mostly done by women at home. So once the distribution of design cloths is done to
these women, they do the bandhej at home. Bandhej for design is a very fine small bandhej which needs
time and accuracy. Once this bandhej is done it goes back to wholesaler and they send this cloth for
colouring. Once the colour is done if design needs more bandhej, then it again goes to the ladies for one
more bandhej and then again for colouring.

Bandhej for Basic colour

This Bandhej is done when the cloth is sent for the colour and it is done by the person who is colouring
the cloth. This bandhej is done using polythene and plastic thread as shown in photo. After this bandhej
it goes for the colour. After colour this polythene are used again for the bandhej for other similar
bandhej. If the design demands more small and different bandhej it again goes for design bandhej. If not
then after colour they left it open to sky to dry. In summer it takes around 4-5 hours to dry, in monsoon
sometime it takes 2 days to dry in and in winter it takes 6-7 hours to dry.
After Bandhej for Colour is done it goes for colour. It is not necessary that every piece of design have
Bandhej for Colour. Some might have only design Bandhej. This kind of cloth directly goes for colour.
Again the person who has designed it decides colours. In olden days the colours used were natural
colours but now a days they use artificial colours.

For making this colour they use below listed materials. This combination can colour around 40 pieces of
cloth:

Colour - 350 gm

Alum - 350 gm.

Sodium- 175 gm

Powder - 50 gm

Sulphate Sodium - 50 gm

Water - until it mixture become paste

Acid - 150 gm

Once the colour is made then they dip cloths into it for around 1 -1.5 minutes per cloth. Then it goes for
drying. This process is used when base colour is light and the colour, which will now be added, is dark. If
it is other way round they have to do another process, which is called ‘wet colouring’. In that materials
are same but it is done on the stove. After colour it goes for Drying or for removing Bandhej.
The drying is done on the terrace. Drying takes some time depending upon the weather conditions. In
monsoon it takes around 1.5-2 days to dry while in summer it takes only 4-5 hours. In winter it takes
around 6-7 hours for drying. After Drying if there is more bandhej required, then it goes for bandhej
through wholesaler or through the colour person depending upon the deal. If there is no more
requirement of any Bandhej then it directly goes to wholesaler and wholesaler sends it to retailer. In
between this sometime de-knoting of bandhej happens depending upon design. Small amount of de-
knoting happens at retailer’s end. Wholesaler never does anything. Last process of the bandhni is De-
knoting and Packing.
This part of the process takes place at the retailers end. When they get the bandhni from wholesaler
they have to iron it and pack it. During packing it the retailer does the deknoting of the bandej.
Sometimes they hire somebody for this work. Then it goes on display inside the shop, from where
customer buys it and gives that to tailor for stitching.
bandhni motifs
Phul Jalibi, hazara phool, gorya (bird flying) (oldest motif known by the artisan “ pilla” bandhey is
anodhna or that is given to lady who has given birth toa amali child the sara is offered by the rides
parents. Jaipur on dot, 3 dot & 7 dots are very popular. Design included: Tie and dye of this region is
famous for “ Bajri band very fine dots speeded all over in a motif. The designs made were mainly in
ornamental form use of earthy colours was more prominent like brown, red, Maroon, rust, yellow &
black Design forms differ with the type of products made but in general border design with all over jaal is
a significant characteristic of their design.

The fabric is sourest from Jaipur, Bangolore & cities of Bengal. Colours were procured from Jaipur. Motifs
used are dungar shahr “ depicted geometrical shapes. Majorly used on adhana “patti phool” boota was a
floral design used in borer and butta for on odhanas “ kali bel” includes diagonal lines with flower
spreader all over the saree generally this pattern is used in leheria and worn on the festival of teej on the
onset of vainly season. Rani pink is the dominant color used in leheria . Phul Jalibi, hazara phool, gorya
( bird flying ) (oldest motif known by the artisan “ pilla” bandhey is anodhna or that is given to lady who
has given birth toa amali child the sara is offered by the rides parents.

Kerri Butta Teen Bundi Hazara Patti bel Shikaar drashya Dibiya phool Phool jalebi Tipai phool
Gurraiya(Chidiya) Phool leheriya Hazara phool Pan bel Patti jaal ESSENCE—IJERC | Datt and Marriya
(2018) | IX (1): 13—20 16 Phool challa BeThis is kept for three to four hours (without opening the knots)
to allow the color to soak in. During this process the small area beneath the thread resists the dye
leaving an undyed dot. This is usually carried out in several stages starting with a light color like yellow,
then aftertying some more knots a darker color is used and so on.

2 Region of Mewar is famous for its Mewari Turbans or Pagdi made of Bandhej fabric are a major
constituent of Rajputi costumes worn by the males of Rajput. Community kodi Bandhej i.e. tear shape
motifs is a famous pattern dyed in the region of Mewar. Small and intricate butte speeded all over along
with teat shaped bel in the design found in Mewari Bandhej. Although use of Natural dye is very
prominent charities tie of the bandhej fabric, But in Bhilwara Synthetic dyes are use and also tie & dye
effect is generated with the help of Screen prints Yellow, Orange, Saffron, Red, Velvet are the colours
used in tie & dye on mulmul, Voil and Cambric Fabric. Other motifs of Mewar region are chaos laddu,
mor (peacock design ) Dibia, heart bel, Kalash, Mothra, Mandana oogl Jaal Sangam Border etc.