HODF

Assam Textiles & Costumes, Eri & Muga Silk

By: Saurabh Singh FD 4th

Introduction
The word Assam is appropriately derived from the Sanskrit word akhom, meaning valley. This beautiful state is known for its natural beauty, cultural richness and diversity. An astonishing variety of flora and fauna, several meandering rivers and streams, and a luxuriant cover of foliage lend it a freshness and vibrancy. The majestic Brahmaputra River that flows through the state is, quite naturally, its most striking feature.

Sericulture
The cultivation of the host plant. Strains of silk worms, developed at the Central Silkworm Feed Station. Rearing of silkworms. The treatment and disposal of cocoons.

Muga silkworms on som tree.

Muga Silk: Muga silk is the product of the silkworm Antheraea

assamensis endemic to Assam. The larvae of these moths feed on som and sualu leaves. The silk produced is known for its glossy fine texture and durability. Due to its low porosity the Muga yarn cannot be bleached or dyed and its natural golden colour is retained. This silk can be hand-washed with its lustre increasing after every wash.

Sualu tree

Som tree

Muga eggs Muga Cocoons

Muga worms

Muga Fibers

Riha

Eri Silk: Eri silk is made by Samia cynthia ricini which feed on leaves
of Castor oil plant .It is also known as Endi or Errandi silk. Because manufacturing process of Eri allows the pupae to develop into adults and only the open ended cocoons are used for turning into silk, it is also popularly known as non-violent silk. This silk is soft and warm and is popular as shawls and quilts.

2 1
1. Eri silk caterpillar 2. Eri silk cocoons 3. Eri spun silk yarn

1. Eri silk scarf 2. Eri silk scarf spun ikat 3. Natural dyed eri silk with raw silk border

Pat Silk: Pat silk is produced by silkworms which feed on mulberry

leaves. It is usually brilliant white or off-white in colour. Its cloth can dry in shadow.

Tussar silk: Tussar ,Tushar, Tassar or Tusser or Simply Bhalgapur

Silk is a Kind of Silk Produces Mostly in Bhagalpur, Jharkhand & Assam. Various Sarees are made from this silk Tussar saree are made in Bhagalpur & Bishnupur Baluchari sarees are made from this silk. Apart from the saree itself, Tussar Silk is also used to make other dresses such as salwar-kameez, lehengas, dupattas, jackets, shirts and achkans. It lends itself beautifully to printing and painting and is being increasingly used innovatively in designer boutique.

Tussar silk fabric

Tussar silk yarn

White Tussar silk sari with Kantha stitch embroidery

Weaving
Weaving is done with handlooms i.e. throw-shuttle looms. The handloom items include mekhela, chador, saris, shawls, kurtis and madeups with traditional tribal patterns and motifs peculiar to the Bodo, Mishing, Karbi and Dimasa tribes. The main feature of Assamese handlooms is vertical and horizontal stripes in different colors.

Raw Materials
The basic raw material used is acrylic, cotton and silk.

Tools
The tools necessary for weaving consist of yarns (acrylic, cotton or silk), spindle, spinning machine, warp drum or pegs and a loom (throw -shuttle).

Throw-shuttle loom

Artistic Weaves of Assam

Motifs
The designs and motifs of Assamese fabrics are inspired from nature, and from familiar objects that surround them. Diamonds in different characters form an interesting part of Assamese design. Animals, birds, plants and flowers etc. form important textile motifs. Juhi is a prominent floral motif depicted with six or seven small petals. An interesting tree motif is widely used as a side motif. Animal and bird motifs include figures of peacocks, parrots, pigeons, lions, horses and elephants. Some other typical motifs include a horseman with a fan, dragon, a diya stand, and a fan.

Mekhela Chador with Kaziranga Motifs

Muga silk chador with Gosh motifs meaning tree

Costumes
Mekhala Chador Riha Gamocha Dhoti Sola / fatua Vest or eri- chador Jaapi

Female Costume
The mekhla chador is the traditional attire of the women of Assam, a state in the North-East India. It is a two-piece ensemble and resembles the sari the lower part, called a mekhla is neatly pleated and tucked into the petticoat in the front. The upper piece, called a chador is also tucked at the waist and taken over the left shoulder as a pallu. Riha is Wrapped below the chador. A typical mekhala chador is made of white or golden Assamese silk with prominent thread work done in red along the lower border.

Riha
Riha was earlier used in the place of blouse over which the chador was worn. Riha was used when the blouse or bra were not introduced. But after when the blouse came into fashion the Riha was only used by the brides which is wrapped below the chador.

A set of mekhela chadors made with Muga silk from Assam arranged around a Jaapi and set on a shawl made with Eri silk.

Mekhala Chador

Male Costume
The men wear dhotis, usually of silk. Sula, a kind of shirt similar to the angarakha, is a traditional upper garment worn by Assamese men.

Tongali

Gamocha: Gamocha is a traditional piece of woven cloth that has multiple uses.
Made of cotton or silk, it is used as a towel, and every house possesses these. Typically in red and white, the gamochas a plain field with a narrow or wide border on both or either of the sides. Gamochas are adorned with a wide of motifs, both floral and geometrical.

A Gamocha made from Pat silk with intricate Designs.

A Gamocha border with a traditional hand woven motif called gosh.

Jaapi: Typical regular use Jaapi is

made out of tightly woven bamboo and/or cane and taku paat . The name, jaapi comes after the word jaap, bundle of taku leaves. Once upon a time, jaapis were very important for Assamese folk, while decorative jaapis were worn by people of high station. Decorative sorudaya jaapis are made with intricate designs made out of cloth that is integrated with the weaving of the jaapi. There is also a typical red border around the edges.

Bihu dancers holding Jaapi.

Sorudaya Jaapi

Thank You