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Knit A Miracle Johnny
Knit A Miracle Johnny
presents
Johnny,
the Christmas Elf
2
Abbreviations
R- row 3dcps - a puff with 3 double stitches;
MR - Magic ring; sl st – slip stitch;
St/Sts – stitch/stitches sc3tog- decreasing (3 sc together);
ch – chain stitch; dc2tog- decreasing (2 dc together);
sc – single crochet; fpdc- front post double crochet;
dc - double crochet bpdc- back post double crochet;
dec- decreasing (2 sc/dc together); fpsc- front post single crochet;
inc - increasing (2 sc/dc in 1 st); bpsc- back post single crochet;
ch-1 sp – chain 1 space
Note: To make the decreases less visible on the crocheted detail I recommend making them as
shown in the picture below. It is advisable to use the present method on the visible parts of the
doll such as face, visible parts of the body, etc.
Arms (2 piece)
Use a 2 mm crochet hook and light-beige (skin colored) yarn.
Start at the underside of the arm.
R 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R 2: (2 sc, 1 inc) 2 times (8)
R 3: (3 sc, 1 inc) 2 times (10)
R 4: 4 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (11)
R 5: 11 sc (11)
R 6: 5 sc, 3dcps, 5 sc (11)
R 7: 4 sc, 3sctog, 4 sc (9)
R 8-9: 9 sc (9)
Stuff the ready part of the arm tightly. Stuff the upper/further part of the arm loosely – use as
little of the stuffing as you can.
R 10-17: 1 sc in each stitch around (9)
th
Crochet additional 1 or 2 sc in the 17 row so that the change of the yarn is made at the back of
the arm.
Cut off the light-beige yarn and attach the red yarn
R 18: 1 sc in each stitch around (9)
R 19: 9 sc into the back loop of the stitch (9)
R 20-24: 1 sc in each stitch around (9)
R 25: (1 sc, 1 dec) 3 times, sl st (6)
Cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
The last 8 rows do not add the stuffing at all or stuff very loosely so that the arms do not stick
out too much.
Attach the red yarn to the 18th row in the center of the back of the detail.
Insert the hook into the loop from the top downwards (from the top of the arm to the direction
of the palm)
R 1: 9 sc into the front loop (9)
R 2: (2 sc, 1 inc) 3 times, sl st to join (12)
Cut and fix the yarn.
Breeches
Use the 2,5 mm crochet hook and green colored yarn.
Work in spiral rounds.
R 1: ch 38, sl st to the 1st ch of the round to join.
R 2-5: 38 sl st into the back loop of the stitch (try to crochet loosely, do not pull the stitches too
much) (38)
Go on working in joined rounds.
To make an even seam ch 1 (at the beginning of the row), sl st to join does not count as a
stitch now and throughout. Crochet the first sc of each round into the base of the ch.
R 6: 1 ch, 38 sc into the back loop of the stitch, sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join (38)
st
R 7: 1 ch, 38 sc, sl st to the 1 sc of the round to join (38)
st
R 8: 1 ch, (18 sc, 1 inc) 2 times sl st to the 1 sc of the round to join (40)
R 9: 1 ch, 40 sc, sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join (40)
st
R 10: 1 ch, 9 sc, 1 inc, 19 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, sl st to the 1 sc of the round to join (42)
st
R 11: 1 ch, 42 sc, sl st to the 1 sc of the round to join (42)
R 12: 1 ch, (20 sc, 1 inc) 2 times, sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join (44)
st
R 13-15: 1 ch, 44 sc, sl st to the 1 sc of the round to join (44)
Further on we are going to crochet the leg of the breeches. We crochet the legs of the breeches
in joined rounds.
Left Leg of the Breeches
R 1: skip 22 sc from the marker on the main detail, insert the crochet hook into the 23th sc
counting from the marker and crochet 1 sl st of the round to join, 1 ch, 22 sc (here and in the
rows that follow crochet the 1st sc of round into the base of the ch), sl st to the 1st sc of the
round to join (22)
Cut off the dark brown yarn and attach the mustard yarn
R 6-7: 32 sc (32)
Pay attention – the decreasing in the 8th row is going to
be made with using different stitches.
R 8: 8 sc, 2 sc2tog, 6 dc2tog, 2 sc2tog, 6 sc (the marker is
moved 2 sc further on) (22)
R 9: 22 sc (22)
Insert the insoles into the boots.
R 10: 6 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, (18)
Cut off the mustard yarn and attach the red yarn.
Crochet the 11th row into the back loop of the stitch.
R 11: 1 dec, 3 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc (13)
R 12: 5 sc, sc3tog, 5 sc (11)
Stuff the boot tightly, avoid stretching the stitches and bending the insoles.
R 13: 11 sc (11)
Do not cut off the red yarn.
Add the cream thread and continue crocheting.
Later on while crocheting you should make sure that the marker stays in the center of the back
of the leg so that the line of where you change yarn color does not move towards the front. For
that you can crochet an extra sc if needed and move the marker.
R 14: 11 sc cream yarn (11)
Change to red colored yarn
R 15: 11 sc (11)
R 16-25: repeat 14-15 rows (change color from red to cream and vice versa every each row).
Cut the cream and red yarns and fasten off. Attach the green yarn and go on crocheting.
R 26-27: 11 sc (11)
R 28: 8 sc (Stop crocheting the present row in the middle of the inner side of the leg. I stopped
and did not finish 3sc. You can stop earlier or later depending on the thickness of the yarn or
tightness of your crocheting).
Attach the mustard yarn to the 10th row in the center of the back of the detail. Insert the hook
into the loop from the bottom up (from the boot up the leg).
R 1-3: 1 ch (does not count as st), 18 sc (crochet the first sc of each round into the base of the
ch), sl st in 1 st sc of the round to join (18)
Cut and fasten off the mustard colored yarn.
Attach the red yarn in the center of the back of the shoe.
R 4: 1 ch, 18 fpsc, sl st to join (18)
Cut and fasten off.
Then insert the right leg of the doll into the right leg of the breeches. Make sure that the seam of
the breech is at the back of the doll. Turn out the breeches and pull them down so that you can
work on the upper part of the right leg of the doll.
Attach the green yarn to the upper part of the doll’s leg and go on crocheting.
R 26-27: 11 sc (11)
R 28: 14 sc (In the present row we add 3 sc more or less so that the row is finished in the
middle of the inner part of the leg. I made 3 sc. You might need more or fewer sc depending on
the thickness of the yarn or tightness of your crocheting). Do not cut off the yarn.
Without cutting off the yarn on the right leg make 4ch and attach it to the left leg.
R 29: 5 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc on the left leg detail, then 4 sc on chain, 5 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc on the right leg,
4 inc on the other side of the on chain. Place the marker (36)
Put aside the detail. Take the red yarn and attach it to the remaining front loops of the 51st row.
Crochet into the front loop of each of the crochets of the row 18 sl st. Try to crochet sl st
loosely. Finish the row with sl st to join, cut and fix the yarn.
Stuff the body and the neck.
Go back to working on the main detail.
Begin crocheting the head.
R 56: 12 inc (24)
R 57: (2 sc, 1 inc) 8 times (32)
R 58: (3 sc, 1 inc) 8 times (40)
R 59: 2 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) 7 times, 2 sc (48)
R 60-70: 48 sc (48)
Take a piece of wire approximately 6 inches long (15
см). Attach some cotton yarn to the wire with the help of
glue wrapping the yarn around the wire, bend it in half
and twist the ends round as in the photo. Insert pointed
ends of the wire through the neck into the body through
the stuffing as shown in the photo. Stuff the head in the
process of crocheting.
The wig
Use a 2mm crochet hook and terracotta colored yarn.
The cap for the wig is worked in joined rounds. In all the joined rounds (2nd through 8th) the
chain at the beginning of the row is counted as st. From the 2nd row up to the 8 th row work all
sts into back loop only.
R 1: 6 sc in MR, sl st in 1st sc of the round to join (6)
R 2: 1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch, 5 inc, sl st in ch of the round to join (12)
From the 3 rd to the 5 th row make the increase of double crochet.
R 3: 2 ch, 1 dc into the base of the ch, 11 inc, sl st to the 2nd ch of the round to join (24)
nd
R 4: 2 ch, 1 inc in next st, (1 dc, 1 inc) 11 times, sl st to the 2 ch of the round to join (36)
R 5: 2 ch, 1 dc in next st, 3 dc, 1 inc, (5 dc, 1 inc) 5 times, 1 dc, sl st to the 2nd ch of the round
to join (42)
R 6-8: 2 ch, 1 dc in next st, 41 dc, sl st to the 2nd ch of the round to join (42)
We are going to crochet the «hair» further on.
R 9: (8 ch, sl st in next st) repeat to the end, sl st into the base of the 1st ch.
Fix and cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
Further on we are crocheting “hair strands” in each joined row going up the cap to the
top of the head.
You are to attach the yarn to the front loops of the stitches of the 7th, 6th and so on till the 1st
row and crochet the hair strands as you did in the 9th row (so to say (8 ch, sl st in next st) repeat
to the end, sl st into the base of the 1st ch).
Count down 13 rows from the top of the head and mark the place for the eyes with pins. The
distance between the eyes should be 3 sc. Glue or sew on the eyes.
Mark the place for the nose two rows down from the eyes.
Start embroidering the nose. Place the stitches over two single crochet until the nose is
protruding a bit. Do not make the stitches too tight - the stitches should be quite accurate and
the tightness of the stitches should be the same for all of them. Only in such a case, the nose is
going to be even. After finishing the nose have the needle exit at the top of the head, fix the
thread well and hide its ends inside the head.
Fix the wig to the head with the help of the sewing pins and then sew it on with small sewing
stitches following the edges of the wig (as shown in the photos below).
Hat
Begin with the green colored yarn. Use 2,5 mm hook.
To make an even seam ch 2 (at the beginning of the row), sl st to join does not count as a stitch
now and throughout. Crochet the first dc of each round into the base of the ch.
The Invisible Seam - Crochet Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-HRE0tB-Rc
R 1: 2 ch, 10 dc in MR, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (10)
R 2: 2 ch, 10 inc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (20)
R 3: 2 ch, (1 dc,1 inc) 10 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (30)
R 4: 2 ch, 1 dc, 1 inc, (2 dc, 1 inc) 9 times, 1 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (40)
R 5: 2 ch, (4 dc, 1 inc) 8 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (48)
R 6-12: 2 ch, 48 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (48)
Thread of green color cut and fasten off.
Change to cream colored yarn
R 13: 2 ch, 48 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (48)
Note: Crochet the first fpdc of 14 th round into the base of the ch.
R 14: 2 ch, (1 fpdc, 1 bpdc) and repeat until the end of a row, sl st to the 1st fpdc of the round to
join (48)
Note: Crochet the first fpsc of 15 th round into the base of the ch.
R 15: 1 ch, (1 fpsc, 1 ch, 1 bpsc, 1 ch) and repeat until the end of the row, sl st to the 1st fpsc of
the round to join (48)
Cut and fasten off.
How to crochet fpdc & bpdc (Front post double crochet - Back post double crochet)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S42_486HrEU
How to crochet fpsc & bpsc (Front post single crochet - Back post single crochet)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8151SI2-O-4
Make a pompom from the red yarn and fix it to the end of the hat.
The Scarf
Use the 2,5 mm crochet hook and cream colored yarn.
Ch 92 and work starting from the 3 nd st from the hook around the foundation chain.
Make a row of double crochets on one long side alongside the chain. Crochet 5 double crochet
into the last stitch and continue crocheting double crochet into the chain from the other side.
Crochet the 4 double crochets into the last chain from the other end of the scarf and finish with
a slip stitch, fix the yarn and cut it off.
Tie small loose knots at both ends of the scarf.
******************************************************************
Now you can praise yourself and give yourself a little pat on the back for a job
well done)))
Now you have a soft and cozy friend Johnny, the Christmas Elf!
ENJOY!
You can meet Johnny's girlfriend, cutie Jovie )))
https://www.etsy.com/listing/732672503/amigurumi-christmas-doll-crochet-pattern