C H R I S T M A S D O U B L E I S S U E

DECEMBER 2021

The

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Whimsical
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Hanukkah
Delights
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12 Cheerful
Chocolate
Cookies
PLUS PRESENTS FOR EVERYONE!
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 D EC E M B E R 202 1 Contents
90
A Whole Lata
Christmas
Mike Lata and Jenni Ridall
allow time to savor the season.

100
Absolutely
Ambrosial
This Southern staple gets
dolled up for holiday desserts.

110
Comfort and Joy
Caroline Harper Knapp turns
her family’s Houston home
into a festive retreat.

118
A Caribbean
Celebration
Nicola Blaque brings her
Jamaican traditions to Texas.
Cookies To Share
’Tis the season
for chocolate
(page 132).

122
Eight Golden,
Delicious Nights
Extra-special fried snacks
perfect for Hanukkah

132
The Gift of
Chocolate
Tins and platters of decadent
cookies no one can resist

146
The Meaning of
Watch Night
Churches celebrate New Year’s
Eve and the end of slavery.

SOUTHE R N LI V IN G 3
 Bounty

DIY Decor
Mix Master

with greenery

Beauty Buzz
Beauty Gifts

In Her Shoes
In Season

20 Clementines
What’s In Store
11 Holiday china

18 All $50 or less

22 Little surprises

26 Fresh fragrances
16 Seasonal sippers

28 Amy Grant’s con-

4 DEC EM BE R / 2021
16
Contents

Traditions

Color Story
79

At Home
Arrangements
The Grapevine
Biscuits & Jam

44 Whimsy and
36 Southern buzz
Picture of Health

35 Reba McEntire
cert series returns.

32 How to live well

39 Magnolia decor
30 Christmas Mice

remembers her mom.

wonder fill this home.

Gardener
D EC E M B E R 202 1

The Grumpy
in December.

67 Lessons in
Home School
growing pains.

Southern Tails
64 Happy pets

2021 Gift Guide

Let’s Bring Back

62 Alleviate your

selected presents
60 Ceramic trees
Decorating Ideas
50 Brian Branton’s
timeless style peaks

Southern decorating

69 Over 50 carefully
39

Hospitality
Party Time
Winter Escape
Long Weekend

174 Crab cakes

Family Recipes
The South

The White Cake

Carolina, getaway

153 Cheesy apps

79 Good tidings in
Richmond, Virginia

The Kitchen

161 A seasonal star

87 Greenville, South

168 Chefs’ favorites

28

Hey Y'all

Southern
Over Easy

Save Room

Life at SL 6

Journal 192
176 Short ribs

In Every Issue
186 Christmas
186

181 Coffee cake

Cooking School
190 Kitchen tips

Recipe Index 191

Sweet Roll Wreath
The Welcome Table
182 Joyous Kwanzaa!

prop styling by AUDREY DAVIS

cover photograph by GREG DUPREE food styling by TORIE COX
Southern Living (ISSN 0038-4305) December 2021, Vol. 56/Issue 11, is published monthly except for a combined issue in January/February by TI Inc. Lifestyle Group, a subsidiary of Meredith Corporation. Principal Office: 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Birmingham, AL 35209. Periodicals postage paid at Birmingham, Alabama, and additional mailing offices.
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 DEEPER
CLEAN
WITH FEWER
INGREDIENTS *

*vs. original ARM & HAMMER™

CERTIFIED SAFER
FOR YOU AND
YOUR FAMILY

Made with 6 essential ingredients;† delivers the deep clean you need from the brand you trust.
ARM & HAMMER™ Clean & Simple™. Deeper Clean, Fewer Ingredients.‡

†
plus water
‡
vs. original ARM & HAMMER
Life at SL “Christmas is doing a little something
extra for someone.” —CHARLES M. SCHULZ

Life of the Party

How the Bloody Mary became our go-to seasonal cocktail

oldest holiday traditions in the too spicy either. It suited his purpose, which was to make it so

O
N E OF TH E
Evans family is that we’ve always had Bloody drinkable that you couldn’t resist a second one.
Marys on Thanksgiving and Christmas Day. If you’re not a fan of this beverage, I certainly understand.
I believe this started with my grandparents, They’re not for everyone, and we do have relatives who fall in
but it was really championed by my Uncle that camp. But for me, there’s something about that mixture
Goodloe, who was the most outrageous and of tomato juice, black pepper, lemon, Worcestershire sauce,
fun person in our extended family. Back in hot sauce, and vodka that feels both celebratory and Southern.
the eighties, he was the guy who would show up at our gath- It lights up the taste buds and cuts through the awkwardness
erings in colorful pants, and he was also known for his col- of large gatherings—especially if you haven’t seen each other
orful language, which he some- for a while and don’t agree on
how employed in a way that made football or politics. For the Evans
even my grandmother laugh. At crew, anyway, there is solidarity
our duck camp in Carlisle, Arkan- in the Bloody Mary. When every-
sas (where we spent a lot of time one is sipping on the same thing,
together), he was famous for being it somehow reminds us that we’re
the last one to go to bed and the all in it together.
last one to show up for breakfast, At one point, Goodloe had the
which usually started at 4:30 a.m. idea of bottling his special mix of
He never wanted a good party to spices and putting his name on it.
end, but he was always prepared I don’t think he ever got serious
for one to start—especially when about the project, but he would be
it came to Bloody Marys. pleased to know that our tradition
During the years when it was continues. Ever since he died in
my mother’s turn to host, Goodloe 2014, we’ve kept making them

C EN TE R : COURTESY GEO RGE E AR LY; CUTTIN G BOA R D: RO BBI E CA P ON ET TO

would show up at her house with in his honor. Last year, his son,
Uncle
an armload of cocktails premixed George, and his daughter-in-law,
Goodloe
in those big 46-ounce V8 bottles, Karen, gave me a little
which he would set on the bar cocktail cutting board
with a flourish. He loved to pass with his recipe on it, and
them around and was always cri- I thought it would be fun
tiquing a particular batch. (“I may to share it with all of
have overdone it on the Tabasco,” he’d warn.) I don’t you. Goodloe would’ve
know when he finally settled on his recipe, but he loved that—but beware
stuck with it for at least 30 years and was stubbornly of that second drink.
resistant to trends. As people started putting bacon Merry Christmas.
and shrimp and all sorts of things in them, he stayed
the course. When a nephew suggested adding some Sid Evans, Editor in Chief
horseradish, he demurred. His recipe isn’t fancy, and it’s not sid@southernliving.com

Need help with your subscription? Visit southernliving.com/myaccount, or call 800/272-4101.

6 D ECE M BE R / 202 1
 ®

*Germs that cause bad breath and early gum disease. Use as directed.
©Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. 2021
Behind the Scenes
Brennan Long
S O C I A L M E D I A E D I TO R
Based in Austin, Texas, Brennan
Long manages our social media
platforms, from Facebook and
Instagram to TikTok and Snapchat.
For this issue, she wrote about
her family’s sweet tradition
during the busy holiday season in
Blacksburg, Virginia (“Nutcracker
Dreams,” page 30).
Joy Howard
R E C I P E D E V E LO P E R
Creating a dozen new holiday cookie
recipes for this issue was a sizable
task, and Joy Howard came up with
some of our most festive and fun
treats ever (“The Gift of Chocolate,”
page 132). She is also a food stylist
and cookbook author—her latest one,
Tomato Love (Storey Publishing), is
set to be released in June 2022.
8 D EC E MBE R / 2021
Editor in Chief Sid Evans
Executive Creative Director Robert Perino
Executive Editor Krissy Tiglias
Director of Photography Jeanne Dozier Clayton
ED ITOR IA L
Production Director Rachel Ellis
Senior Editors Lisa Cericola, Valerie Fraser Luesse,
Page Mullins
Senior Writer Marisa Spyker
Features Editor Betsy Cribb
Travel & Culture Editor Caroline Rogers
Associate Homes Editor Grace Haynes
Assistant Editor Patricia S. York
Test Kitchen Professional Pam Lolley
Business Manager Nellah Bailey McGough
D ESI G N
Associate Art Director Daniel Boone
Senior Designer Betsy McCallen Lovell
Designer Lindsay Smith
PH OTO G RA PHY
Associate Photo Editor Mary Katherine Morris
Photo Coordinator Laura Evans
Photographer Robbie Caponetto
COPY
Copy Chief Libby Monteith Minor
Copy Assistants Katie Akin, Katherine Polcari
SOUT HER NL IVIN G.CO M
Senior Editor Patricia Weigel Shannon
Editors Rebecca Angel Baer, Brennan Long,
Katie Strasberg Rousso
Senior News Writer Meghan Overdeep
Senior Video Producer Meg Pace Lovett
Editorial Producer Ivy Odom
Associate Editor Jenna Sims
Assistant Editors Mary Shannon Hodes, Jorie McDonald,
Kaitlyn Yarborough
Fellows Emma Phelps, Marissa Wu
ED ITORS AT L A RG E
Steve Bender, Rick Bragg, Jenna Bush Hager
CON TR IBUT IN G E DI TO RS
Sheri Castle, Elly Poston Cooper, Jessica B. Harris,
Elizabeth Heiskell, Robert Moss, Elizabeth Passarella,
Ann Taylor Pittman
MER ED I TH R ESE A RC H SO LU T I O N S
Research Director Bridget Sellers
MER ED I TH P R EMIU M PU BL I S H I N G
Editorial Director Jill Waage
Executive Creative Director Michael D. Belknap
Special Projects Editor Jessica Thuston
Design Director Tempy Segrest
Photography Director Paden Reich
Operations Editor Diane Rose Keener
MER ED I TH FOO D ST U D I OS
Director Allison Lowery
Photography Director Sheri Wilson
Test Kitchen Director Katie Barreira
Operations Editor Callie Nash
MER ED I TH N ATI ON A L M ED I A GROU P
President Catherine Levene
President, Meredith Magazines Doug Olson
President, Consumer Products Tom Witschi
President, Meredith Digital Alysia Borsa
EVP, Strategic & Business Development Daphne Kwon
VP/Group Publisher Deirdre Finnegan
VP, Brand Marketing Jennifer Staiman
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Southeast Account Directors Holly Belk, Sarah Smith
West Coast Account Manager Blair Shales
Sales Support Britta Meier, Jenny Sikora, Kaitlyn Sutton
BRA N D M A RK E T I N G
Brand Marketing Director Claire Stevick
Homes Marketing Director Kristen Bryan
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Homes Program Manager Lil Petrusnek
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Brand Marketing Coordinator Haley Cinotto
Fellow Cameron Beall
L I C EN S I N G
VP, Licensing Kristen Payne
Senior Director, Licensing Lisa DeAraujo
Senior Licensing Manager Michelle Adams
CO N SU M E R M A RK ET I N G
VP, Planning Philip Ketonis
Marketing Directors Todd Bierle, Jill DeForest Colvig,
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Retail Directors Christine Austin, Bill Wood
Marketing Managers Emma Squires, Diane Van Zee
P RO DUCTI O N
Production Director Kent Pollpeter
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Chuck Howell
V I CE P R ESI D EN TS
Brand Licensing Toye Cody, Sondra Newkirk
FRO M TO P : JE NN IFER VASQUE Z; JOA NN A C HATT MAN
Business Planning & Analysis Rob Silverstone
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Vice President, Group Editorial Director Stephen Orr
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Director, Editorial Operations & Finance Greg Kayko
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Vice Chairman Mell Meredith Frazier
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 W H AT W E ’ R E L O V I N G ,
S H A R I N G , A N D C E L E B R AT I N G
In Season
Spode
Christmas
Tree, $79 for
five-piece
place setting;
spode.com

WH AT’S IN STO RE

Making Tables Bright

Set a merry mood with china for every style of celebration

produced by CARLA GONZALEZ-HART photographs by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI SOUTHE R N LI V IN G 11

 W H AT ’ S I N S T O R E

4 3

WHIMSICAL TREES
(1) Cuthbertson Dickens Embossed Christmas, $140 for dinner plate; replacements.com (2) Vietri Lastra Holiday, $164 for
four-piece place setting; vietri.com (3) Nikko Christmastime, $90 for five-piece place setting; replacements.com
(4) FaÏencerie de Gien Filets Noel, $178 for four-piece place setting; replacements.com

1 2 D ECE M BE R / 2021
 W H AT ’ S I N S T O R E

TIMELESS TRIMMINGS
(1) Royal Copenhagen Star Fluted Christmas, $80 for dinner plate; royalcopenhagen.com (2) Juliska Stewart Tartan, $38 for dinner
plate; juliska.com (3) Lenox Holiday, $36 for dinner plate; lenox.com; (4) Herend Winter Shimmer, $215 for dinner plate; herendusa.com

SOUTHE RN LI VI NG 13
 W H AT ’ S I N S T O R E

SHIMMERING WINTER WHITES

(1) Mottahedeh Chelsea Feather Gold, $285 for four-piece place setting; mottahedeh.com (2) Match Viviana, $158 for
dinner plate; match1995.com (3) Wedgwood Winter White, $165 for set of four nibble bowls; wedgwood.com
(4) Bernardaud Noël, from $57 for bread-and-butter plate; bernardaud.com

14 D EC E M BE R / 2021
 W H AT ’ S I N S T O R E

4 3

TRADITIONAL TRANSFERWARE
(1) Gibson Designs Christmas Toile, $32 for four-piece place setting; replacements.com (2) Caskata Arcadia Crimson, $115 for
four-piece place setting; caskata.com (3) Noble Excellence Twas the Night Before Christmas, $12 for salad plate; replacements.com
(4) Juliska Country Estate Winter Frolic Ruby, $198 for four-piece place setting; juliska.com

SOUTHE RN LI VI NG 15
 IN SEASON

M I X M ASTE R

Merry Mocktails
Austin bar owner Chris Marshall holds the booze on these buzz-worthy seasonal sippers

GREG DUPR EE ; FO O D STY LIN G: MA RGA R ET MON RO E DICK EY; P RO P ST YL IN G : K AY E. CL A R KE ; HE ADS HOT: HE AT HE R CUR I EL

may have given up alcohol

C H R I S M A RS H A L L
in his early twenties, but you’d never catch him
without a drink in his hand. “I always found that if you
had something interesting in your glass, it took a lot of
the pressure off at social events,” he says. At the time, main-
stream mocktails were a thing of the future, so Marshall busied
himself in the kitchen, drawing inspiration from seasonal ingre-
dients and his Memaw’s cooking to concoct flavor-forward
blends of fresh juices, infused syrups, and craft sodas.
In 2017, Marshall took his recipes to the masses
with Sans Bar, Austin’s first drink-slinging pub
where you won’t find a drop of alcohol. Come the
holidays, when nonstop soirees can leave many non-
drinkers feeling left out, Marshall engineers a festive hangout
with zero-proof drinks to match—and encourages every host
to do the same. “At any event, there should always be equally
attractive nonalcoholic options,” he says. Here, he shares three
delicious mocktails filled with spirit.

16 D ECE M BE R / 2021 by MARISA SPYKER recipes by CHRIS MARSHALL

Berry Juniper Fizz
ACTIVE 5 MIN. - TOTAL 5 MIN.
SERVES 1
1∕4 cup refrigerated
pomegranate juice
2 Tbsp. Juniper Syrup
(recipe follows)
1 Tbsp. fresh orange juice
(from 1 orange)
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) nonalcoholic
gin alternative (such as
Ritual Zero Proof), optional
Ice
1∕4 cup (2 oz.) chilled
nonalcoholic cranberry-
flavored sparkling beverage
1 (4- x 1-inch) orange
peel strip
Fresh cranberries
Combine pomegranate juice,
Juniper Syrup, orange juice,
and (if using) nonalcoholic
gin alternative in a cocktail
shaker filled with ice. Shake
vigorously until cold and
frothy, about 30 seconds.
Strain into a coupe glass; top
with cranberry-flavored
sparkling beverage. Garnish
with orange peel strip and
cranberries.
Juniper Syrup
Bring 1 cup granulated sugar
and 1 cup water to a simmer
in a small saucepan over
medium, stirring occasionally.
Remove from heat, and stir
in 2 Tbsp. crushed dried
juniper berries. Cool to
room temperature, about 30
minutes. Pour through a fine
mesh strainer into a glass or
jar, discarding berries. Store
syrup in an airtight glass jar in
refrigerator for up to 1 month.
ACTIVE 5 MIN. - TOTAL 35 MIN. -
MAKES 11∕2 CUPS
Rosemary-and-Ginger Mule sprig against palm to release natural oils.
ACTIVE 5 MIN. - TOTAL 5 MIN. Garnish with rosemary and lime wheel.
SERVES 1
1 (71∕2-oz.) can nonalcoholic Rosemary Syrup
ginger beer Bring 1 cup water, 1 cup granulated
2 Tbsp. Rosemary Syrup sugar, and 1 cup loosely packed rosemary
(recipe follows) sprigs to a boil in a small saucepan over
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 1 lime) medium-high, stirring occasionally.
Ice Boil, stirring occasionally, until sugar is
Rosemary sprig dissolved, about 1 minute. Remove from
Fresh lime wheel heat, cover, and steep 30 minutes. Pour
Stir together ginger beer, Rosemary through a fine mesh strainer into a glass
Syrup, and lime juice in a copper mug or jar, discarding rosemary. Store in airtight
filled with ice until mug is frosty, about glass jar in refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.
30 seconds. Lightly smack rosemary ACTIVE 5 MIN. - TOTAL 35 MIN. - MAKES 11∕2 CUPS
Comfort and Joy honey, and lemon juice in a
ACTIVE 5 MIN. - TOTAL 5 MIN. cocktail shaker filled with ice;
SERVES 1 shake vigorously until chilled,
1 cup unfiltered mulled 30 seconds. Strain into a
apple cider highball glass filled with ice;
3 Tbsp. (11∕2 oz.) nonalcoholic garnish with cinnamon stick
whiskey alternative (such or lemon wheel.
as Ritual Zero Proof)
To serve warm: Heat cider
2 Tbsp. honey or pure and honey in a small sauce-
maple syrup
pan over medium-high until
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
gently simmering, stirring
(from 1 lemon)
occasionally, about 2 minutes.
Ice (optional)
Remove from heat; stir in
Cinnamon stick or
lemon juice and nonalcoholic
lemon wheel
whiskey. Transfer to a mug.
To serve chilled: Combine Garnish with cinnamon stick
cider, nonalcoholic whiskey, or lemon wheel.
SOU THERN L IVING 17
 IN SEASON

B E AU T Y GI F TS

Pretty Little Things

Visions of sugarplums? We’ve dreamed
up something even better: 10 extra-nice
presents that are $50 and under
2

(1) Beautycounter Lid Glow Cream Shadow Get eyelids that glisten like twinkle lights thanks to buildable color with a hint of shine.
$24 each; beautycounter.com (2) Fancii Mila Mirror For drawing on the perfect red lip and checking it twice, pick this compact with
STY LIN G: MA RY BE TH W E TZE L

dimmable lights, standard and magnifying mirrors, and a rechargeable battery. $47; fancii.com (3) Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk
Beautifying Eye Filter The 2022 forecast is calling for fanned out lashes and smoky eyeliner. Master the look with this mascara-liner
duo that will deliver flawless results. $29; charlottetilbury.com (4) Mary Kay Hydrogel Eye Patches Not-so-silent nights are no match
for these calming under-eye gel pads powered by moisture-locking glycerin. $40; marykay.com (5) The Little Market Soaking
Salt-Peppermint Immerse yourself in the season with a blend of pink Himalayan sea salts and peppermint essential oil. Each
purchase helps provide job training and support for mothers in underserved communities. $22; thelittlemarket.com

1 8 D EC E MBE R / 2021 by PATRICIA SHANNON photographs by ROBBIE CAPONETTO

 BEAUTY GIFTS

(6) Shinery Radiance

Wash This plant-
powered hand cleanser
moisturizes skin while
wiping away oil and
buildup from rings to
give your jewelry a little
extra shimmer. $28;
shinery.com (7) Dior
Addict Lip Maximizer
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Up her gloss game:
She’ll get smoother lips,
a plumper pout, and 7
24-hour hydration with
each application. $35;
dior.com (8) Boden
Jeweled Hair Slide Set
Yes, Virginia, Santa has
something sparkly for
your stocking. This trio
of glitzy hair pins will 6
add pops of color to
her New Year’s Eve
updo. $50; bodenusa
.com (9) Holler and 8
Glow Reining Champions
Printed Hand Sheet
Masks Mama doesn’t
have an army of elves
wrapping all those
presents—and the
paper cuts and dry
cuticles prove it.
Vitamin E, coconut
extract, and cocoa
butter will soften
and moisturize in a
flash, leaving behind
just a hint of sweet
coconut fragrance. $4
each; target.com (10)
Kiramoon Moon Globes
After chilling in the
freezer for 30 minutes, 9
these Austin, Texas-
made glass wands have 10
the power to depuff,
soothe, and illuminate
skin when rolled over
the neck, forehead, and
cheeks and around the
eyes. $42/set of two;
urbanoutfitters.com

SOU THER N LIV ING 19

 IN SEASON
BOU NT Y
Darling
Clementines
Although they’re sold year-round, now is peak
season for these juicy, easy-to-peel citrus fruits.
(Hint: The smaller the size, the sweeter they are.)
Buy a bag or box, and use them to make an edible
gift that will brighten anyone’s day
20 D EC E M BE R / 2021
Clementine-Vanilla
Bean Marmalade
3 lb. seedless clementines (mandarin
oranges)
2 lemons
3 Tbsp. minced crystallized ginger
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
41/2 cups granulated sugar
2 tsp. vanilla bean paste
1. Slice ends off clementines and lemons.
Slice each piece of fruit in half from end
to end. Thinly slice each half into 1/4-inch-
thick half-moons. Cut each half-moon in
half so every piece is a quarter of a slice.
Discard lemon seeds. Bring clementines,
lemons, and 6 cups water to a boil in a
large Dutch oven over medium-high.
Reduce heat to medium, and simmer
5 minutes. Remove from heat; let stand
30 minutes. Cover; chill 12 to 24 hours.
2. Prepare a boiling water canner. Heat
6 half-pint glass jars in simmering water
until ready to use. Do not boil. Wash lids in
warm, soapy water, and set bands aside.
3. Uncover clementine mixture; bring
to a simmer over medium. Stir in ginger
R ECIP E: PA M LOLLEY; FOO D STY LIN G: E MILY N ABO RS HA L L ; P ROP ST YL I NG : MA RY C L AY TO N CAR L JON ES
and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally,
until citrus rinds are very soft, about
30 minutes.
4. Stir in sugar and vanilla paste. Bring
mixture to a boil over medium-high.
Reduce heat to medium; attach a candy
thermometer to side of Dutch oven.
Cook, stirring every 3 to 4 minutes, until
thermometer registers 220°F, about 45
minutes. (A spoon dragged across bottom
of pot should briefly leave a clean line.)
5. Remove mixture from heat; carefully
ladle into hot sterilized jars, filling to 1/4
inch from top. Remove air bubbles; wipe
jar rims. Center lids on jars, and apply
bands. Adjust to fingertip tight. Lower jars
into boiling water canner, and process,
covered, for 10 minutes. Turn off heat,
uncover, and let jars stand 5 minutes.
Remove jars from canner; cool 12 to 24
hours. Check lids for seal (lids should not
flex when center is pressed). Store in a
cool, dark, dry place up to 18 months. Or
store unprocessed marmalade in airtight
jars in the refrigerator up to 1 month.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 2 HOURS, 15 MIN.,
PLUS 1 DAY CHILLING - MAKES 6 CUPS
photograph by GREG DUPREE
 IN SEASON

Silver and Gold

Think beyond
vases. Let pretty
vessels, like julep
cups or vintage
glassware, hold
arrangements.

P RO DUC E D BY KATHLE E N VA RN ER

D I Y DECO R

Tiny Treasures
Sometimes the best decorating ideas are the little ones

22 D EC EM B ER / 2021 by PATRICIA SHANNON photographs by ROBBIE CAPONETTO

 DIY DECOR

RAISE
THE
BAR
Pinecones stand in
for flowers as the
volume makers in
this bouquet. If
you are lucky
enough to find a
few still on the
branches, snag
them from your
yard. Otherwise,
you can buy them
at your local crafts
store. Dusty miller
adds a touch of
softness to this
display, and the
magnolia leaves,
pine, and a sprig
of holly berries
round out the
arrangement. Be
Twice as Nice
sure to keep water As you put these
in the vessel to get together, alternate
more life out of showing off the
the dusty miller. fronts and backs
of magnolia leaves
for added interest.

STRIKE A POSY
Let the magnolia leaves dictate the size and shape of each arrangement, but keep them small in
scale so they don’t overwhelm the place setting. From there, the equation is simple: two magnolia
leaves, a sprig of cedar and/or pine for texture, and berries on top for a pop of color. A handful
of foraged leaves (we opted for deep purple foliage to contrast with the bright green magnolia)
can fill in any holes. Secure with florist tape at the base, and then wrap the bottom with a velvet
ribbon—bonus points for selecting a shade that coordinates with your china.

SOU THERN L IVING 23

 DIY DECOR

Full Circle
Using florist wire,
make a ring and
then bend the
wire back around
itself to secure.
Cover with
greenery (with
needles pointing
in the same
direction), and
attach to the
form with florist
tape. Add a bow.

MAKE IT MINIATURE
Petite wreaths come together in a snap to dress up empty that’s been trimmed to a length about 1/2 inch shorter than the
tabletops. A few sprigs of pine, rosemary, or cypress are stems. Using dark green florist tape, attach the stripped portions
the essential elements. For a horseshoe-shaped one, strip the to the wire. Gently bend the wire to make a horseshoe shape,
needles from the bottom inch of two pieces of greenery; then and then manipulate the greenery to follow suit, bending and
overlap the stripped sections so the needles of each clipping securing it to the wire with florist tape as needed. Finish it with
point in opposite directions. Place that on a piece of florist wire a bow tied around the wreath’s center to hide the construction.

24 DEC E MBE R / 202 1

 DIY DECOR

SNEAK IN SURPRISES
Shift into neutral for a simple bouquet that incorporates natural
colors and textures. You’ll need cedar, spiral eucalyptus, dusty
miller, and a branch holding a trio of petite pinecones to create
this look. It can add unexpected charm to a bookshelf, bedside
table, or windowsill.

ADD ANOTHER LAYER

Give your stocking or sideboard a bit of
extra sparkle with a tassel that’s subtly
fragrant too. Start by gathering five
magnolia leaves, two other kinds of
evergreens (we used cypress and pine),
spiral eucalyptus, and a cluster of
berries. Position the grouping so the
magnolia acts as the backdrop; this will
give the arrangement structure. When
you like the look, secure the base of
the stems with florist tape. Wrap a piece
of ribbon around the tape, knotting it
off once the bottoms of the stems have
been almost completely covered. Use
the loose ends to create a loop large
enough to fit over your stocking holder,
drawer pull, or knob. Knot again to
secure, and then let the tails hang down. A Special Favor
Trim them so they hit just above the end This petite bouquet will make a lovely
of the greenery for a hint of movement hostess gift, or put together multiples for
and a soft touch. giving away at your holiday luncheon.

SOU THERN L IVING 2 5

 IN SEASON

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STY LING: MA RY B ET H WE TZ EL

26 D EC EM B ER / 202 1 by PATRICIA SHANNON photograph by ROBBIE CAPONETTO

 IN SEASON

Tennessee
Christmas
Amy Grant’s
Nashville home
is decked for
the holidays.

P RO P STYLIN G: K ATIE E LLE R/A RT RA MBLERS ; WAR DRO BE: T RI S H TOW N SE ND; HAI R AND M AKEUP : MARY BE TH F E LTS/ ZE NO BIA
I N H E R S H OES

Repeat the
Sounding Joy
After a season away due
to the pandemic, Nashville
singer-songwriter Amy
Grant and her husband,
Vince Gill, are back for their
Christmas at the Ryman
concert series
BY BETSY CRIBB

28 D ECE M BER / 2021 photographs by DAVID MCCLISTER

 IN HER SHOES

On Holiday
Decorating
ETURNING TO THE RYMAN

R
“I’m an after-
Auditorium each December feels as Thanksgiving
familiar and festive to Amy Grant kind of person.”
as sorting through her Yuletide trea-
sures. “It’s like going into storage and
pulling out the oldest cardboard box
of ornaments I’ve duct-taped over
and over,” says the Nashville performer. “Prepping
for those shows is part of that same rhythm for me.”
Last year, the coronavirus pandemic and an unex-
pected open-heart surgery interrupted that cadence.
But 2021 has proven to be a celebratory comeback:
In July, she released the 30th-anniversary edition of
her Grammy-nominated album Heart in Motion, and
this fall, a rescheduled tour took her to both coasts.
With sold-out Christmas shows just around the cor-
ner, Amy shares how she welcomes in the season.

WHY I’M ESPECIALLY GRATEFUL

FOR LIVE MUSIC NOW
“I think one of the unsettling experiences during the
COVID-19 pandemic was that, without the unifying
things that we are accustomed to, it seemed like all
of our differences were on grand display. It felt very
divisive. There were so many benefits to opening
our eyes and seeing each other, stewing in our own
juices and coming to terms with who we are—the
good and the bad. But sporting events and concerts
are occasions where people can sit side by side and
be so different yet still cheer for the same thing. When what
brings us together is absent, we really miss it.”
WHAT CREATIVITY MEANS TO ME
“There were times in my life when I felt like all I did was eat,
sleep, and breathe music. I don’t feel that way now, because
creativity expresses itself in so many forms. We don’t even
realize all the ways we use it, like when you’re staring into a
refrigerator with C-plus leftovers and have a few things in your
pantry, but then you take what you’ve got and start making
something appealing.”
THE HOLIDAY TRADITION I LOVE
“I think I’ll be filling stockings for my family until I’m dead. Our
oldest, Jenny, has two kids, and our daughter Millie is expecting
a baby. They’re not waking up in this house on Christmas morn-
ing anymore, but even my grown kids have said, ‘Can we always
do stockings?’ And I love it. To me, it’s about appreciating the
uniqueness—or the quirkiness—of the people you care about. All
of that can be reflected in small, thoughtful gifts.”
HOW CHRISTMAS ALBUMS ARE SPECIAL
“I’m honored when people tell me that my music is part of
their own traditions. It never ever gets old for someone to say,
‘Your record is what we put on every Christmas morning,’ or
‘This is what I grew up with.’ Some dear friends of ours used
to always decorate their tree with the movie White Christmas
on when their daughters were young. Now their daughters
have daughters, and the little bitties sing all the songs too. I
know what that feels like. My family does the same thing with
Nat King Cole’s music.”
A SECRET FOR SAVORING THE PRESENT
“Part of my job is creating environments that feel welcoming.
For women at Christmastime—and I’m saying this to myself
first and foremost—it’s so important to set aside a pocket of
time (even 5 or 10 minutes) to put on the teakettle, light a
candle, turn off the phone, and listen to a song. That’s been one
of the most valuable lessons I’ve learned as a woman and a
creative: Whatever atmosphere you’re trying to make for other
people, it’s important to welcome yourself to it first.”

SOU THER N LIV ING 2 9


T RAD ITIO NS
Nutcracker Dreams
Even the most festive times can turn frantic. For one family,
an hour in the kitchen put everything into perspective—and
created memories to last a lifetime
Brennan and her sister at home
in Blacksburg, Virginia, circa 1997
EFORE Alabama recorded
B
“Why Can’t Christmas
Day Last All Year Long,”
I might have warned
them to be careful what
they wished for. Starting
when I was 8, my holi-
days began in August with auditions for
The Nutcracker at the Tanglewood Mall
in Roanoke, Virginia. My sister, Jordan-
Elizabeth, and I would spend the rest of
the summer playing the score to the
3 0 DEC EM BE R / 2021
IN SEASON
Christmas Mice
1 cup chocolate candy
coating disks (from
1 [10-oz.] pkg., such
as Ghirardelli Dark
Chocolate Flavored
Melting Wafers)
20 stemmed maraschino
cherries (from 2 [10-oz.]
jars), blotted dry
20 milk chocolate kisses
(such as Hershey’s
Kisses)
40 almond slices
Black decorating gel
White decorating gel
1. Line a baking sheet with
parchment paper; set aside.
Microwave chocolate disks
in a small microwavable
bowl on MEDIUM (50%
power) until melted and
smooth, 60 to 90 seconds,
stirring every 30 seconds.
2. Working with 1 cherry
at a time, hold by the stem
and dip in melted choco-
late. Working quickly and
Christmas ballet as we discussed what still holding cherry by the
parts we would dance that December. stem, attach flat bottom of
Two years older and remarkably 1 chocolate kiss to rounded
focused, my sister accepted the challenge bottom of dipped cherry;
of elegant roles involving a tutu or at least hold together for about 20
a party dress. Always looking for a laugh, seconds. Place on prepared
baking sheet. Place 2
I crossed my fingers for a character part,
almond slices in groove
and Fight Scene Mouse remains one of where cherry and choc-
my greatest hits. olate kiss meet, using more
FO OD STY LIN G: EMILY N A BORS H ALL; P O RT RAIT: COURTESY BR EN N AN LO NG
Once rehearsals began in September, melted chocolate if needed.
every family member contributed. Pink Add 2 dots black decorating
tulle and green organza leaves covered gel in front of almonds. Add
the living room as Mom created tutus 1 drop white decorating gel
on the tip of each chocolate
for the “Waltz of the Flowers.” Our dad
kiss. Repeat process with
spent Saturdays driving us through the remaining ingredients. Chill
Blue Ridge Mountains to the Roanoke until set, about 20 minutes.
Civic Center, an hour each way. Store, covered, in refrigera-
By the time the holidays finally arrived, tor up to 2 days.
we were starting to lose steam. An expert ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 45 MIN.
MAKES 20
at making the ordinary feel magical,
Mom suggested we whip up a batch of
Christmas Mice, inspired by my onstage
persona. While this recipe didn’t require
a mixer, an oven, or a hint of flour, it
allowed us to slow down and reminisce
on the joy of the past few months as we
prepared for the celebrations ahead.
by BRENNAN LONG photographs by FREDERICK HARDY II
Rock in the new year
with a free concert
Bicentennial capitol mall STATE park
FRIDAY, Dec 31

Music note drop® & Fireworks at midnight

visitmusiccity.com/newyearseve
#NashvilleNYE
 P I C T U R E O F H E A LT H

SEC RE TS TO A G O O D L I FE

Natural Beauty
At New Orleans’ Oxalis Apothecary,
every product is lovingly crafted by hand

a routine. “Not a day

went by that my mom
didn’t wash her face
and apply serum and
moisturizers,” says
Wexstten. “[She taught
me], ‘This is the most
important step of the
day. You must take
care of your skin!’ ”
In 2015, after two
years of experimenting,
H OUSE CA L L
“Some people with
asthma may feel
worse in the winter
due to a variety of
factors,” says aller-
gist Dr. Anita Sivam.
“Cold, dry weather
can trigger more
symptoms, as the

MA IN: E MILY FER RE TT I; DR . AN ITA S IVA M: MIC HELLE E LLI OTT W IT H ST U DI O E P HOTO G RA PHY; I L LUSTRATI ON S: KEN DYL L HI L L EGAS
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(@oxalisapothecary). Winter also tends to
Less than a year later, be a peak time for
she moved from New different viruses and
York to New Orleans, colds, which can
where she and her team cause asthma flare-
make each product by
ups.” People with
WH E N A DR EA M JOB in fashion didn’t hand. “It’s such an intimate experience to
fulfill Erin Wexstten like she’d expected, take care of yourself,” says Wexstten. “I
poorly controlled
she began considering other options. “I want people to feel looked after and know asthma should
was asking myself, ‘What do I love? Who that they matter. This moment in their day check in with a spe-
am I at the core of my being?’ ” she says. is just for them. Who knew skin care could cialist before winter
She kept coming back to the value of be so sentimental? But it is for me.” arrives, she notes.

Start a New
Tradition
Three ways to
share the joy SERVE A MEAL at a commu- DELIVER HANDMADE If you’re filling a wish list for a
of giving with nity kitchen in your area, or CARDS to neighbors, or ship program like The Salvation
your kids volunteer at a local food bank them to soldiers through Army Angel Tree, let your child
sorting and packing canned Operation Christmas Cards SHOP FOR TOYS AND GIFTS.
goods. feedingamerica.org For Our Troops. usasoa.org salvationarmyusa.org

3 2 D EC E MBE R / 2021 by BETSY CRIBB

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DILLARDS.COM/SOUTHERNLIVING

Reba’s Biggest Fan
The country star remembers the woman who introduced her to music—her mom
EBA MCENTIRE wasn’t
R
the only one in her family
who dreamed of becom-
ing a performer. Her
mother, Jacqueline (who
died in March 2020 at
the age of 93), did too.
“Mama wanted to be a singer,” Reba said
in an interview on the South-
ern Living Biscuits & Jam
podcast. “[She] had a friend,
and they were a duo. They
wanted to go to California and
pursue a career, but Grandpa
wouldn’t let them because he
needed help there at home.”
Instead, Jacqueline stayed
in Oklahoma, became an ele-
mentary school teacher, and
married Clark, a future world
champion steer roper. She
raised three girls and a boy on
a cattle ranch in the tiny town
of Chockie, and the family
spent much of their time on the
road, pulling a horse trailer
from one rodeo event to the
next. Reba became a talented
barrel racer, and on those long
trips, she also learned to sing.
“When we were rodeoing, we
didn’t have a radio or an air
conditioner,” Reba recalled. “We barely
even had an armrest. So, to keep us kids
COURTESY RE BA’S BUS INESS, IN C.
Play the Interview
Hover your phone’s
camera over the
smart code to hear
Reba’s Biscuits &
Jam episode.
by SID EVANS
IN SEASON
B ISCU I TS & JA M
out of trouble, Mama taught us four-
part harmony. That’s how we would pass
the time.”
Jacqueline enjoyed big band, blues,
jazz, country, and everything in between.
“Johnny Horton, Johnny Tillotson, Johnny
Cash—all the Johnnys were covered,” Reba
said. Her mother also loved Christmas
music. “The first time I was ever behind
a microphone was when I was singing
‘Away in a Manger’ at the holiday program
in first grade,” she said.
Years later, when the McEntires
decided to take Reba to Nashville, it was
Jacqueline who helped steady her daugh-
ter’s nerves. “I was really missing my
rodeo family, wondering if I was going
to be torn away from them completely,”
Reba said. “I made a lot of excuses to
stop—you know, ‘I have to use a bathroom’
or ‘Can we get something to drink?’ She
got fed up with it and said, ‘Reba, if you
don’t want to do this, we don’t have to do
it. We can just turn around and go home.
But if you go through with it, I just want
you to know that I’ll be living all my
dreams through you.’ I said, ‘Well, shoot.
Why didn’t you say that in the
first place? Let’s go.’ ”
When Reba’s career was
getting started, her mom even
traveled with her and, every
now and then, performed with
her onstage. In 2017, at the age
of 90, Jacqueline joined Reba
and her two other daughters
at the Ryman Auditorium to
sing “I’ll Fly Away,” which they
had recorded together for a
gospel album. “That was just
a dream come true for me,”
said Reba. And it clearly was
for Jacqueline too.
Family Memories
From left: The musician with her
mother, Jacqueline; Reba (left) and her
sister Alice at Christmas, circa 1958
SOU THERN L IVING 35
 THE GRAPEVINE
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3 6 D EC EM BE R / 202 1 by BETSY CRIBB

 B E A U T I F U L S PA C E S F O R
A BETTER LIFE
At Home
A RRA NGE ME N TS

Magnificent
Magnolia
Three simple yet striking
ideas that start with this
iconic Southern foliage
SIERRA GUARDIOLA
STY LIN G: BU FFY HA RGE TT MILLE R

After the amaryllis

dry out, replace with
fresh ones or keep
the greenery as a
seasonal centerpiece
(how-to on page 41).

photographs by LAUREY W. GLENN produced by MARY COX BROWN SOUTHER N LI VING 39

 ARRANGEMENTS

Mist the wreaths with

water every few days,
especially if they’re
in direct sunlight.

Tropical What You’ll Need

Punch 12-inch wire wreath frame, ‘Carolina Sapphire’ cypress branches, 26-gauge florist wire,
magnolia leaves with stems, florist glue, pussy willow branches, clementines, araucaria,
Citrus adds a pop green velvet ribbon
of color to an all-
natural palette How-To
Set wire wreath frame flat on a table. Use cypress as the base; attach branches to frame with florist
wire. Dip stems of magnolia leaves in florist glue; add to wire frame. Tuck pussy willow into frame.
Pierce clementines with florist wire; wrap wire around frame to secure. Add araucaria or other
greenery from the yard for texture. Wrap ribbon around bottom of wreath, and tie in a knot.

40 DEC E MBE R / 2021

 ARRANGEMENTS

When January rolls

around, remember
to save the faux
garlands and ribbons
to reuse next year.

from page 39:

Center of
Attention
For a head-turning
display, give
graceful amaryllis
time to shine

What You’ll Need

Florist foam, punch
bowl, magnolia leaves,
‘Carolina Sapphire’
cypress, araucaria,
nandina berries, three
stems of amaryllis,
pears, wooden skewers,
pomegranates

How-To
Place presoaked florist
foam in base of a punch
bowl. (Each element
should be stuck in the
foam when added.) Use
magnolia leaves, ‘Carolina
Sapphire’ cypress, and
araucaria to fill bowl
with greenery. Add stems
Climbing Garland of nandina berries and
amaryllis. Stick pears on
Touches of gold elevate staircase greenery skewers, and group in
bundles. Once completed,
What You’ll Need How-To fill bowl with water so
Zip ties, two 9-foot faux Fraser fir garlands, Zip-tie garlands to the banister. Tuck the centerpiece stays
magnolia leaves, dried hydrangea blooms bunches of magnolia leaves (green sides up) hydrated. Then place
that have been spray-painted gold, lavender into the wire of the garland so it’s completely pears and pomegranates
velvet ribbon covered. Add hydrangeas periodically to around base of bowl for
wire so arrangement flows up banister. additional color.
Wrap ribbon around the railing and garland;
make it into small bows to cover zip ties.

SOU THERN LIV ING 41

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unusual headaches; eye sensitivity to light; eye problems; rapid
heartbeat; increased sweating; extreme tiredness; weight gain or
weight loss; feeling more hungry or thirsty than usual; urinating
more often than usual; hair loss; feeling cold; constipation; your
voice gets deeper; dizziness or fainting; changes in mood or behavior,
such as decreased sex drive, irritability, or forgetfulness
• Kidney problems: decrease in the amount of urine; blood in your
urine; swelling in your ankles; loss of appetite
• Skin problems: rash; itching; skin blistering or peeling; painful sores
or ulcers in mouth or nose, throat, or genital area
• Eye problems: blurry vision, double vision, or other vision problems;
eye pain or redness
Problems can also happen in other organs and tissues. These are
not all of the signs and symptoms of immune system problems that
can happen with OPDIVO and YERVOY. Call or see your healthcare
provider right away for any new or worsening signs or symptoms,
which may include:
• Chest pain; irregular heartbeat; shortness of breath; swelling of
ankles
• Confusion; sleepiness; memory problems; changes in mood or
behavior; stiff neck; balance problems; tingling or numbness of the
arms or legs
• Double vision; blurry vision; sensitivity to light; eye pain; changes in
eye sight
• Persistent or severe muscle pain or weakness; muscle cramps
• Low red blood cells; bruising
Getting medical help right away may help keep these problems
from becoming more serious. Your healthcare team will check
you for these problems during treatment and may treat you with
corticosteroid or hormone replacement medicines. Your healthcare
team may also need to delay or completely stop your treatment if you
have severe side effects.
What should I tell my healthcare provider before receiving OPDIVO
and YERVOY? Before you receive OPDIVO and YERVOY, tell your
healthcare provider about all of your medical conditions, including
if you:
• have immune system problems such as Crohn’s disease, ulcerative
colitis, or lupus
• have received an organ transplant
 Talk to your doctor about OPDIVO + YERVOY
www.OPDIVOYERVOY.com 1-855-OPDIVOYERVOY
• have received or plan to receive a stem cell transplant that uses
donor stem cells (allogeneic)
• have received radiation treatment to your chest area in the past
and have received other medicines that are like OPDIVO
• have a condition that affects your nervous system, such as
myasthenia gravis or Guillain-Barré syndrome
• are pregnant or plan to become pregnant. OPDIVO and YERVOY
can harm your unborn baby
• are breastfeeding or plan to breastfeed. It is not known if OPDIVO
or YERVOY passes into your breast milk. Do not breastfeed during
treatment with OPDIVO or YERVOY and for 5 months after the last
dose of OPDIVO or YERVOY
Females who are able to become pregnant: Your healthcare
provider should do a pregnancy test before you start receiving
OPDIVO or YERVOY.
• You should use an effective method of birth control during your
treatment and for at least 5 months after your last dose of
OPDIVO or YERVOY. Talk to your healthcare provider about birth
control methods that you can use during this time.
• Tell your healthcare provider right away if you become pregnant or
think you are pregnant during treatment with OPDIVO or YERVOY.
You or your healthcare provider should contact Bristol Myers Squibb
at 1-844-593-7869 as soon as you become aware of the pregnancy.
Tell your healthcare provider about all the medicines you take,
including prescription and over-the-counter medicines, vitamins,
and herbal supplements.
Know the medicines you take. Keep a list of them to show your
healthcare providers and pharmacist when you get a new medicine.
What are the possible side effects of OPDIVO and YERVOY?
OPDIVO and YERVOY can cause serious side effects, including:
• See “What is the most important information I should know
about OPDIVO + YERVOY?”
• Severe infusion reactions. Tell your healthcare team or nurse right
away if you get these symptoms during an infusion of OPDIVO or
YERVOY: chills or shaking; itching or rash; flushing; shortness of
breath or wheezing; dizziness; feel like passing out; fever; back or
neck pain
• Complications, including graft-versus-host disease (GVHD),
of bone marrow (stem cell) transplant that uses donor stem
cells (allogeneic). These complications can be severe and can
lead to death. These complications may happen if you underwent
transplantation either before or after being treated with OPDIVO
or YERVOY. Your healthcare provider will monitor you for these
complications.
The most common side effects of OPDIVO when used in combination
with YERVOY include: feeling tired; diarrhea; rash; itching; nausea;
pain in muscles, bones, and joints; fever; cough; decreased appetite;
vomiting; stomach-area (abdominal) pain; shortness of breath; upper
respiratory tract infection; headache; low thyroid hormone levels
(hypothyroidism); decreased weight; and dizziness.
These are not all the possible side effects of OPDIVO and YERVOY.
Call your doctor for medical advice about side effects.
You are encouraged to report side effects of prescription drugs to
the FDA. Call 1-800-FDA-1088.
OPDIVO (10 mg/mL) and YERVOY (5 mg/mL) are injections for
intravenous (IV) use.
This is a brief summary of the most important information about
OPDIVO and YERVOY. For more information, talk with your healthcare
providers, call 1-855-673-4861, or go to www.OPDIVO.com.
© 2020 Bristol-Myers Squibb Company. All rights reserved. OPDIVO®, YERVOY®,
and the related logos are trademarks of Bristol-Myers Squibb Company.
7356-US-2100021 01/21
 AT H O M E

Carols and
cocktails make
trimming four
trees fun for
homeowners
John Loecke
and Jason
Oliver Nixon.

B RI G H T I D E AS
STY LIN G: KE ND RA SURFACE

In High Spirits
Whimsy and wonder usher in a magical season at the High
Point, North Carolina, home of the Madcap Cottage designers
BY PAMELA BRILL

4 4 DEC EM BE R / 2021 photographs by HECTOR MANUEL SANCHEZ produced by JOHN LOECKE AND JASON OLIVER NIXON
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 BRIGHT IDEAS

Weenie, the
pair’s rescue
dog, admires
the holiday
finery.

WHEN John Loecke (left)

and Jason Oliver Nixon (right)
decorate for the holidays, they
become instant storytellers.
The duo behind the home-
decor brand Madcap Cottage,
which embodies their pen-
chant for prints and patterns,
hones their 10-plus years of
interior design experience to
create a memory-making
season, from beginning to end.
“It’s all about the unexpected,”
explains Nixon. “Our cottage
speaks to everyone. It evokes
a spirit of adventure and
brings that back home.” To
allow each Christmas tree in
your house to look as splen-
did as the next, Loecke says,
“Make it feel special and tell
a story.” Here, they invite us SPARKLE AND SHINE
into their home and share Pulling together baby blues and creamy whites makes a grand entrance in this high-
four of their brightest ideas traffic area. “It ties in to the look of the space while creating a happy focal point,” says
for trimming the tree. Nixon. Keeping things simple, he and Loecke purchased paper honeycomb balls from
a party-goods store and sequin garlands from a fabric shop to outfit the tree. The base, a
Versailles Planter from Frontgate, carries an element from the garden into the foyer.
The banister, adorned with cascading paper balls, draws the eye upward. The cheery
cerulean palette and silver accents carry right over into New Year’s celebrations.

4 6 DEC E M BER / 202 1

BRIGHT IDEAS

The topper is a
nod to Loecke’s
childhood treks
to see the tree
at the former
Marshall Field &
Company store
in Chicago.

PRETTY IN PINK
A playful getup with colorful punches complements the
dining room’s existing garden-inspired palette without
feeling forced. “If you entertain, you’ll be using this room,
so bring a tree into it,” says Loecke. Vivid 1960s beaded
balls and star-shaped sputnik ornaments, culled from his
parents’ collection, are layered with strands of blue-and-
white lights. A vintage planter serves as the base, while
the angel topper (another of Loecke’s treasured hand-me-
downs) is a gentle reminder of Christmases past.

SOU THERN LIV ING 47

 BRIGHT IDEAS

A tabletop version
is a manageable
yet merry option
for apartment
dwellers.

From page 44

MEANINGFUL
MEMENTOS
The designers opted for a
flocked tree in the living
room. “It feels like it was
just picked from the forest,”
enthuses Nixon. He and
Loecke reserve this one to
showcase ornaments from
their travel adventures—
from England to Florida to
Morocco—and it’s the only
one with decorations that
stay the same from year
to year. “This is how most
people’s Christmas trees
are—filled with memories
and special meaning,” says
Nixon. To make a busy look
seem less chaotic, incorpo-
rate consistent elements
from top to bottom, like the TINY TRIMMINGS
layers of glass balls and Even small spaces can deliver big holiday cheer. It’s as easy as adding a few pops
candle ornaments hung of color on a mini display. Buck the traditional red-and-green scheme with a pink-
on this one. and-orange grosgrain-ribbon topper. “These colors are arresting, feel magical, and
elevate the experience,” says Nixon. Hand-painted balls (purchased by Loecke
during a trip to India) and vintage Martha Stewart ornaments add a delightful twist
to this Charlie Brown-inspired creation. “Who wouldn’t love seeing a penguin or a
turtle on a tree?” asks Nixon.

4 8 D EC E M BER / 2021
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 AT H O M E

EVERY HO LIDAY season, a

particular 1808 Federal row
house in Old Town Alexan-
dria, Virginia, comes alive.
Homeowner Brian Branton
is a lobbyist in Washington,
D.C., when he’s not conduct-
ing an invisible team of deco-
rating elves in his basement.
“I grew up in a historic
house in North Carolina.
Tradition for me is all about
family, and I spend the holi-
days with them,” Branton
says. “It’s a very special time.
I’ve always decorated for
Christmas, even when I was
living in student housing
at The University of North
Carolina at Chapel Hill.”
To say Branton goes all
out is an understatement.
He does everything from
drying his own glassy citrus
ornaments to stringing up
garlands of patinaed cards
from years past. For him,
decking the halls is pure joy.
“There is no right or
wrong way to go about it. I
always like to pay homage to
the history of my home, but
it’s not a museum. Natural
elements and what I consider
Southern decor anchor it all,” RO BE RT RAD IFE RA FO R STY LIS H PRO DUCTIO NS

Branton says.
Upon these foundations,
whether he’s using evergreen
clippings from the backyard
D ECO RAT ING ID E AS
or historically inspired fruit
wreaths, the past and present

Old Town Magic come together each year in

this delightful home. Read on
Brian Branton’s passion for historic homes and to learn Branton’s tried-and-
passed-down traditions peaks in December true methods for sprucing
BY CHARLOTTE SAFAVI up his space.

5 0 D ECE M BE R / 2021
 D E C O R AT I N G I D E A S

Shown at left:

Glorious
Greenery
To complement his
annually commis-
sioned wreath (made
by Atelier Ashley
Flowers), Branton
fills the fanlight
above the front door
with similar compo-
nents, including
dried fruit, pine-
cones, and lotus
pods. A pineapple,
a symbol of South-
ern hospitality, is
central to the over-
head arrangement.
And all the other
street-facing win-
dows have their own
matching greenery
displays.

Foyer Finery
A classic blue-and-white bowl piled with magnolia leaves sits on the entry
table. Above that on the antique mirror, Branton mounted a smaller wreath
that uses evergreens and dried yarrow to enhance the room’s yellow
paneling and trim. On the banister, garlands are accented by floral-and-
fruit arrangements secured to blocks of florist foam.

SOU THERN L IVING 51

 D E C O R AT I N G I D E A S

Lighting Up the Room

“The main parlor tree holds all the ornaments I’ve been
collecting over my lifetime, including those that my mother
made for my childhood tree and ones that were gifted to
me,” says Branton. His trick for making them shine: spending
several hours wrapping the branches with fairy lights for
a sparkling effect.

5 2 D EC EM BE R / 202 1
 D E C O R AT I N G I D E A S

“I incorporate lots of Southern elements. The most

classic decorations are ones that use greenery from
the yard: magnolia, nandina, Japanese aucuba, and
boxwood. Over the years, I’ve added more historical
details, like dried fruit,” Branton says.

NATURAL SELECTION Dashing Display

“I pick items that dry well, A tree dressed with dried citrus, fresh cranberry garlands, and orange
like boxwood and cedar,
pomander ornaments adds a burst of color to the dining room, which
so they look beautiful as
they age,” Branton says. features a formal table topped with three centerpieces. The middle com-
ponent uses an apple tree stand (layered with boxwood and oranges)
set in a silver punch bowl and crowned with a pineapple. The flanking
arrangements involved securing fresh oranges and boxwood sprigs to
cone-shaped blocks of florist foam.

SOU THERN L IVING 53

 D E C O R AT I N G I D E A S

Sentimental Spirit
“I save holiday cards and string them up
between faux boxwood wreaths. I enjoy
looking back at everyone through the years,”
says Branton of the library’s decor. “Being
with family is most important to me. A lot
of traditions stem from that—remembering
Christmases past with loved ones.”

5 4 DEC EM BE R / 2021
 D E C O R AT I N G I D E A S

ALL TWIRLED UP
“Since I like to use dried fruit, I start that process
Calm and Cozy early, but the actual decorating occurs in a mad
Branton had stockings rush over one weekend,” says Branton.
made from damaged
antique rugs for his bed-
room. “I don’t like the overly
festive versions, and these
blend well with the room’s
design,” he says. As a finish-
ing touch, he stuffs them
with the same greenery he
uses throughout—boxwood,
pine, and magnolia. Another
Christmas tree illuminates
the bedroom’s cozy sitting
area, while swags of garland
festoon the mantel and four-
poster bed.

SOU THERN L IVING 55

 AT H O M E

LE T ’S BR I NG BACK WHETHER IT’S THROUGH a beloved tradi-

tion or a baked good, this season has a way

Ceramic Sparklers
of triggering nostalgia. For many who grew
up in the 20th century, cheerful memories
are inspired by the sight of a glowing ceramic
Christmas tree.
Once mainstays in mid-century households, these Typically standing between 12 and 15
tabletop charmers are ready for a second light inches tall, these illuminated evergreens had
their heyday in the seventies, when ceramics
companies—eager to capitalize on holiday
spirit—began mass-producing tiny trees from
single molds. Often sold glazed in classic
YULETIDE DIY colors of white and green (and sometimes
Some crafts stores pink), they became showpieces on entryway
offer paint-your- tables and dining room buffets. But porcelain
own ceramic trees.
trees lost a bit of their luster in the latter part
of the century, as ubiquitous trends often do.
If you held onto yours (or your grandma’s),
you’re in luck: Demand for these gems, from
vintage-inspired replicas to contemporary
takes, is back. And while the new ones are
nice, owning an original is a real treat, as the
early molds from now-defunct businesses
have all but gone extinct. So display your

LE FT: RO BBIE CA PO NE TTO, C ERA MIC TRE E P ROVID ED BY DO IT YOURS EL FC RA F TS.COM ; S ID EBAR : COURT ESY VE NDO RS
precious heirlooms with
pride, or consider passing
on the joy: Some antiques
will fetch enough to seri-
ously boost your gift fund.

Merry
Miniatures CLASSIC
Three ceramic The Holiday Aisle
trees to fit Tabletop Tree,
your style $54; wayfair.com

SIMPLE
Northlight 6.25" MODERN
White and Gold Northlight 10"
Mini Christmas Green Pearl Tree,
Tree, $9; christmas $17; christmas
central.com central.com

60 D EC EM B ER / 202 1 by MARISA SPYKER

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Prices include cost of bids. Bids cost up to $0.20 each.

 AT H O M E
THE GRUMPY GARDENER
“Madame, I count two trees. Remove one immediately.”
BY ST EV E B E ND ER Ah, homeowner’s associa-
tions, always the bearers of
DEAR
glad tidings! Make your one
tree a Japanese maple that
grows slowly and stays small.
I recommend ‘Tamukeyama,’
GRUMPY
‘Crimson Queen,’ ‘Waterfall,’
‘Emperor I,’ or ‘Fireglow.’ For
your shrubs, look at ‘Miss
Lemon’ abelia, ‘Flirt’ nandina,
‘Obsession’ nandina, Encore
azaleas, and Drift roses.
My husband and I are building a
house in a senior community in Next Year’s
Tomatoes
Marietta, Georgia, and our front yard
I live in Northern Virginia and
will be tiny. The homeowner’s asso- have a small vegetable patch.
ciation says I can have six shrubs This summer, my tomato
and one tree. They need my list right plants got late blight and
died. Is there something I
away, but since we’re from Colorado, should do now to get rid
I haven’t a clue. Please help! of this problem?
—TERRY –JANET
6 2 D ECE M BE R / 2021
First, clean out all old plant
debris, and throw it away
with the trash. Second, don’t
put tomatoes in the same
spot every year to prevent
a buildup of diseases in the
soil. Third, choose selections
resistant to late blight, such
as ‘Mountain Magic,’ ‘Defiant,’
‘Lemon Drop,’ ‘Plum Regal,’
‘Jasper,’ and ‘Mr. Stripey.’
Fourth, apply a layer of
mulch around your plants
to bury any spores on the
soil surface. Fifth, don’t wet
the foliage when you water,
as splashing water spreads
spores. Finally, if diseased
foliage should appear again,
spray your plants with a
natural fungicide such as
liquid copper or Serenade,
following label directions.
Spurred
Into Action
Here in coastal North
Carolina, I have been fighting
sandspurs. Any words of
wisdom on how to get rid
of these painful little burs?
–CHARLES
Also known as sandburs, bur
grass, and some too-explicit-
to-print epithets, sandspurs
are annual grassy weeds
that spread by attaching
spiky seedpods to clothing,
animal fur, and sometimes
feet. Grumpy has cussed at
them often. Apply a grassy
weed preventer such as
Scotts Halts to the ground
in spring before these $!*%
weeds germinate.
illustration by JONATHAN BROWN
 THE GRUMPY GARDENER
Ask the Grump! No question
goes unanswered on his
Facebook page: facebook
.com/slgrumpygardener.

KNOW
Camellia Quandary YOUR
the agent said the disease PLANTS
Where should I plant lives in the soil. Who is right?
camellias—in full sun, partial –JANICE
sun, or shade? I live on the
Florida Panhandle near Both are, actually. Boxwood
the Alabama border. blight does live in the ground.
–ROBIN However, its spores can live
on top of the soil or in plant
I recommend light shade debris. Spores germinate
for camellias growing in during wet, mild weather
USDA Zone 9, as yours will (60 to 77 degrees) when
be. Farther north, they can rain splashes them onto
deal with dappled light or sun the leaves. Infected plants
in the morning with shade in defoliate and die. Both
the afternoon but not full English boxwood (Buxus
sun. Planting them under tall sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’)
hardwoods or pines is ideal. and American boxwood (B.
sempervirens) are very sus-
ceptible. Spraying in spring
Blighted with the fungicides Daconil
Boxwoods or Cleary 3336 will help. So
We have some 50-year- will planting selections and
old English and American
boxwoods, and the Virginia
hybrids of Japanese boxwood
(B. microphylla japonica) Rosemary
Cooperative Extension agent and Korean boxwood (B. A pot of this aromatic herb is the
diagnosed them with blight. A sinica insularis) such as
gift that keeps on giving
certified arborist told us he ‘Green Mountain,’ ‘Green
could save them if he sprayed Beauty,’ and ‘Winter Gem.’
them with fungicide three to They tolerate the fungus
four times each spring, but much better.
Cut Christmas trees are raised as a
disposable crop, just like most poin-
settias. You shouldn’t feel guilty about
purchasing one, but if you do suffer a
I BET MOST OF YOU rake and then twinge of conscience, here’s a nice
trash the leaves that fall on your lawn. alternative. Buy a pot of rosemary
Did you know this is evil? That’s right.
According to one eco-hero, you should
that’s trimmed to look like a miniature
let all the dropped tree foliage remain Christmas tree. Its scent freshens any
exactly where it fell in support of the room, and you can pick the leaves to
insects that lay eggs on it or take
G RU M P Y ’S season meats, soups, and other dishes.
shelter there. Well, excuse me, but
GRIPE allowing the leaves to stay in place can Place it near your brightest window,
of the month smother grass and also make you look or it may drop foliage. Always keep
like a lazy slob. Once mine fall, I run the soil moist, but never leave the
over them with a mulching mower with
the bag on—instant mulch for garden
plant sitting in a water-filled saucer.
beds with oodles of organic matter! After winter, take it outside and trim
Next spring, I’ll still have bugs aplenty. to maintain its form. —Steve Bender

illustration by KENDYLL HILLEGAS SOUTHER N LI VING 63

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Special Deliveries
Papers can be pretty, but the real key to
showstopping gifts is what’s on top
RO BBIE CA PO N ETTO ; STY LIN G: K ATH LE EN VAR N ER
Ties That Bind
Satin, burlap, twine,
grosgrain—ribbons have
come a long way since the
ubiquitous metallic type
reigned supreme. Up your
gift-display game by using
varying widths and textures,
such as thick velvet with
satin and twine. (Or try
layering one atop another.)
For making bows, satin and
velvet are easy and elegant.
by MARISA SPYKER
HOME SCHOOL
L E S S O N S I N S O U T H E R N
Tag! You’re It
If the ribbons are the star
performers, gift tags are
their sidekicks. Ditch the
stickers, and instead opt for
the sturdy card stock kind
tied on with ribbon, twine,
or raffia—they come in
a wide variety of colors,
patterns, and shapes. To
streamline the process,
preorder supplies that are
already personalized.
D E C O R AT I N G
Fresh Cuts
It’s the cherry—or maybe
the rosemary sprig?—on
top. Take your presents to
designer status with natural
elements, from cuttings
off your Christmas tree to
cinnamon sticks to slices of
dried apples or citrus. They
can make gifts look (and
smell!) extra special. Just
tuck them under twine or
ribbon to secure.
How To Wrap
Like a Pro
Three secrets to
polished presents
every time
Measure Properly
Place box atop gift wrap,
and pull opposite sides
of paper around it. Make
sure all sides are covered
with a 2-inch overlap
before cutting.
Make It Seamless
Fold one side of paper up
slightly over one edge of
box. Bring opposite side
around gift so where the
edges meet aligns with
the corner of the box.
Mask Imperfections
Fold the exposed edge
under half an inch to
hide uneven cuts. Apply
double-sided tape to the
underside of paper, and
press down firmly.
SOUTHE RN LI V ING 67
MEN’S OUTDOOR QUILTED SNAP SWEATSHIRT

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 2021 GIFT GUIDE

Best.
Gift.
Ever.

50+ presents so carefully chosen

they’ll think you spent all year deciding
what to give them
(your secret’s safe with us)
BY BETSY CRIBB PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROBBIE CAPONETTO
STYLING BY MARY BETH WETZEL

SOU THERN L IVING 69

 2021 GIFT GUIDE

For the Hostess Who Has It All

Gracious goodies that inspire fanciful entertaining
1

5
3
4

6
2

1. The planner who loves designed that they’ll 4. Finish her look with no water. $65 each; Illume’s Gold Candle
a well-curated playlist never want to stash glamorous For Matisse laurendunn.co Snuffer and Wick Trimmer
will adore this Country it out of sight. $99; No. 4 earrings in Red by to go with it. $14 each;
6. Doug Collum casts his
Legends Coaster Set, momastore.com South Carolina designer crateandbarrel.com
100% beeswax Hemlock
which is made to order Cathy Williams. $38;
3. She can serve up Stick Candles from real 8. When she doesn’t
in Dallas. $60/set of her signature house moon-seed.com branches in Highlands, have anything nice to
four; tartbytaylor.com
cocktails in this 5. Brentwood, Tennessee, North Carolina. $36/ say, a Bless Your Heart
2. Elevate game night Rialto Glass Coupe Set artist Lauren Dunn’s pair; stickcandles.com Needlepoint Pillow can
with a Colorful Backgam- in Salmon. $62/pair; freestanding acrylic do the talking for her.
7. If you give her a
mon Set so beautifully shopsirmadam.com Bloom Blocks require $98; furbishstudio.com
candle, she’ll need

70 D EC EM B ER / 202 1
 2021 GIFT GUIDE

For the Younger Set

Finds so fun they’ll assume you had help from Santa himself

1. Old school just

got cooler thanks to
the Wireless Express
Bluetooth Mini Boom
Box in Retro. $50;
maisonette.com

2. Ashley Murphy
3 makes her Rhey cloth
doll by hand in Fort Mill,
4 South Carolina. Sign up
1 for her newsletter so you
don’t miss a launch. $57;
kinfolkdolls.com

3. Inspire young artists

with Decatur, Alabama-
crafted Big Bug Out
2 sidewalk chalk. $15/set of
four; hopscotchchalk.com

4. Apostrophe Puzzles’
Island Hopping by
Marianne Angeli Rodriguez
subs in as a lesson in
5 art appreciation that’s
disguised as a kid-friendly
activity ideal for rainy
days spent inside. $36;
apostrophepuzzles.com

5. Written by Nashville-
born chef and TV
personality Carla Hall,

6
Carla and the Christmas
Cornbread is the new
holiday tale that’ll quickly
become a tradition. $18;
bookshop.org

6. Send them outside

with a Quip Mini Cruiser
Skateboard 22.5" in
Sunflower, and they’ll
7 forget about their
screens for a while. $30;
retrospec.com

7. Stash your littles’

playground snacks or
road trip distractions
in this Mini Rattan Kids
Picnic Basket in Seafoam.
$45; food52.com

SOUTHER N LI VING 7 1
 2021 GIFT GUIDE

For the Spontaneous Road-Tripper

Handsome gear they’ll never want to travel without

1. Make the camper feel

more at home with
a cozy Italian Stripe/
2
Buffalo Check Throw in
6 Olive Buffalo Check.
$108; fromsir.com

2. Stow essentials in the

Kelly Wristlet in Purple
5 from Georgia handbag
1
4 designer Alexandria W.
Alli. $40; fwstyle.com

3. Treat weary toes to

this Maryland-made
Refuge Rejuvenating
Foot Soak. $20; naturally
london.com

3 4. The Champ Portable

Charger in Turquoise
can juice up two
devices at once. $50;
gonimble.com

5. Provide easy roadside

entertainment with the
King Playing Card Set in
Tan from Austin, Texas’
Son of a Sailor. $60;
sonofasailor.co

7 6. Keep them hydrated

on hikes with the 33-oz.
Frontier Bottle in Reef.
8 $45; eddiebauer.com

7. Even overpackers will

have room for all their
essentials in the Canvas
Weekender Duffle Bag
in Natural/True Navy.
$70; landsend.com

8. He’s sure to love the

Backbarrier Heather
Performance Quarter
9 Zip Pullover for chilly-
weather wanderings.
$110; southerntide.com

9. Rain or shine, she’ll

be comfy in the Torrent
Chelsea Rain Boot. $80/
pair; sperry.com

72 D EC E M BER / 2021
 2021 GIFT GUIDE

For the Keeper of the Family Recipes

Essentials to elevate time spent in the kitchen

5
4

2
1. Dyed Trio Arches
Tea Towels from New
Orleans maker The family farm located in
Modern Bloc prove North Alabama. $45;
that the dish-drying redlandcotton.com
workhorse can be 5. Memphis ceramist
pretty too. $15 each; Melissa Bridgman’s
statementgoods.com food-safe Porcelain 6
2. Give Rover a place Oyster Shells are

at the table with the thoughtful vessels for

Southern Living Festive serving seafood or
Fall Collection Yellow mignonette sauces.
Lab Dog Accent Plates, $24 each; bridgman
exclusively at Dillard’s. pottery.com
$24/pair; dillards.com 6. Louisiana-born

3. Set up the culinary Vallery Lomas shares

novice in your life for cherished favorites
success with Asheville, in her new cookbook,
North Carolina, chef Life Is What You Bake

Meherwan Irani’s It: Recipes, Stories &

meticulously sourced Inspiration to Bake Your 7

spices in the Kitchen Way to the Top. $30;

Essentials Collection. bookshop.org

$55/set of 10; 7. Treat the cooking
spicewallabrand.com aficionado to a Chef
4. Protect clothes Collection 12 Inch

from floury messes Cast Iron Stir Fry

with a Ticking Stripe Skillet to expand

Apron made from their dinnertime

cotton grown on a horizons. $70;
lodgecastiron.com

SOU THERN L IVING 7 3

 2021 GIFT GUIDE

For Someone Who Appreciates Craftsmanship

Southern-made charms worthy of the wish list

6
2
1

9
7

1. Give him a waxed 3. These Chic Cocktail special. $58 each; Co.’s Heritage Dopp Kit 8. Dianna Allen hand
shelter cloth Field Hat Insects napkins in exvotovintage.com is built to last with pours her Jasmine
from Birmingham’s Lavender are embroi- water-resistant waxed Fig Double Wick Candle
5. Morning coffee will
Tom Beckbe. $125 dered in Savannah. canvas and nylon. $80; in St. Louis. $36;
be a meaningful ritual
each; tombeckbe.com $95/set of four; oldenfieldsupply.com terrasimply.com
courtlandandco.com with Atlanta-based
2. St. Stephen, South Utility Objects’ Nagai 9. Whimsical works
7. Set out charcuterie
Carolina, bladesmith 4. Ex Voto Vintage Mug in Speckled White. from Southern artists
on a personalized Large
Quintin Middleton donates a portion of $45; utility-objects.com like Inslee Fariss and
Graze Board from Magic
crafts his Brew Shucker proceeds to pediatric Riley Sheehey fill the
(an oyster knife and brain cancer research, 6. Designed in Texas City Woodworks, a pages of Dogwood
bottle opener) to order. making these Custom and made in North Birmingham nonprofit. Hill’s cheery new 2022
$100; middletonmade Engraved Affirmation Carolina by veterans, From $50; magiccity Desktop Calendar. From
knives.com Cuff Bracelets feel extra Old Enfield Supply woodworks.org $34; dogwood-hill.com

74 DECE M BE R / 2021
 2021 GIFT GUIDE

For the Friend Who Always Wins “Yard of the Month”

Fresh picks to nurture a green thumb

1. This sturdy carbon 4 5. Keep his houseplants

steel Project Source hydrated with a Haws
Gardening Hand Tool Kit 7 Mini Watering Can in
makes planting porch Green. $48; shop
containers a breeze. terrain.com
$12; lowes.com
6. Shield hands from
2. Revised and updated, thorny vines with
The Garden Book is the Garden Gloves in Heart
ultimate A-to-Z guide to Melting Pink. $49/pair;
world-class landscapes gardenglory.com
and the talents behind
7. Outfit them for
them. $60; phaidon.com
mess-free planting in
3. Organize your plot the potting shed with
with colorful ceramic 8 a 100%-cotton Canvas
Herb Markers from Workshop Half Apron
Wilmington, North in Natural. $57;
Carolina’s Clay Hive Co. thefloralsociety.com
$8 each; etsy.com/
8. Soothe the itch from
shop/clayhiveco
irritating shrubs or
4. Spark an interest in vines with Poison Ivy
gardening with playful Soap that’s handmade
Ornament Seed Kits. with olive oil and
$25/set of four; organic oatmeal. $8;
modsprout.com sallyeander.com

SOU THERN LIV ING 75

 2021 GIFT GUIDE

Stocking Stuffers $15 and Under

Small but mighty surcees from across the South

1
4

1. Make mocktails merry 4. Cobalt’s Houston-made

with acrylic Candy Cane Crisp Peppermint Hand
Drink Stirrers from Winter Sanitizer will keep travels
Park, Florida’s Friendlily germ free. It also comes
Press. $15/set of four; in a bubblegum scent.
friendlilypress.com $15; cobaltclean.com

2. Family-owned Forage 5. Athens, Georgia’s

Farmstead (located in Precious Jones hand
Wilsonville, Alabama) blends her caffeinated
churns out decadent Creamy Earl and Spicy
bath-and-body care, like Orange Chai teas using
Luxury Goat Milk Bath locally grown herbs. (She
Bombs in Bergamot- offers low-caffeine and
Grapefruit, Tea Tree- decaf options too.) $2 for
Mint, and Bulgarian a single-serving tea bag;
Lavender. $7 each; meplustea.com
foragefarmstead.com
6. Dress up their drinks
3. Protect your pout from with Hibiscus Rose and
dry winter air with Cedar Toasted Caramel Syrups
Hill, Texas-based C & C from Fayetteville, Arkansas-
Holistic Living’s Beeswax 6 based cocktail brand
Lip Balm, with babassu, Pink House Alchemy.
castor, and jojoba oils. $5; $14 each; pinkhouse
candcholisticliving.com alchemy.com

76 DEC E M BER / 202 1

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 A DV E N T U R ES I N
T R AV E L A N D C U LT U R E

The Jefferson
Hotel is the
picture of holiday
elegance.

LO N G W E EK EN D

Richmond’s
Good Tidings
It’s the most wonderful
time of the year in
Virginia’s capital
BY PAIGE PORTER FISCHER

photographs by CEDRIC ANGELES SOUTHERN LIV I NG 7 9

 Decem-

E
V ERY
ber, Richmond’s
many distinctive
neighborhoods
have an almost
otherworldly
allure—like the magical pages
of a children’s pop-up book.
Tiny white lights illuminate
the trees that line historic
streets, colorful front doors
are adorned with waxy
magnolia wreaths, century-
old wrought iron gates wear
garlands like necklaces,
and store windows display
scenes borrowed from
vintage Christmas postcards.
In Virginia’s capital—called
“RVA” by locals—the holidays
present the best opportuni-
ties to take full advantage
of its pedestrian-friendly
neighborhoods.
CARYTOWN
Cary Street is Richmond’s
main artery of shops and
restaurants. Stop by Can
Can Brasserie, and enjoy a
cappuccino at the 50-foot-
long zinc bar—be sure to get
one of their beloved fruit
breads too. (Cherry Almond,
Cranberry Pecan, and Apricot
Pistachio are all perennial
favorites.) Nearby, Crème de
la Crème makes browsing
for presents a treat. A
French-inspired store, it
features exquisite home
goods you may not stumble
upon anywhere else. Buy
organic skin-care products
at Mamie’s Apothecary; a
stroll through this serene
shop feels as relaxing as a
visit to the spa. Down the
road is World of Mirth, the
city’s best toy store. Next
door, BBGB has a carefully
curated selection of books
in a gallery-like environ-
In Good Spirits
ment. Mongrel is an eclectic
(From left) Richmond is
place that prides itself on full of surprises, like this
selling the most uncommon holiday pop-up called
gifts and cards you’ll find Jingle Belle. The Quirk
in Richmond. Grab lunch favors pink, even this
time of year. Sip a craft
on the weekends at The
cocktail at The Jasper.
Fancy Biscuit, where a fried
chicken sandwich on a
flaky, buttery biscuit will
make your day. Score a slice

80 D EC EM BE R / 2021

of the delicious Christmas
Cake (chocolate cake infused
with an Andes mint-filled
mousse) at Shyndigz. The
Byrd Theatre, a landmark
cinema that opened in 1928,
presents holiday movies
throughout December.
Many of the daily showings
include a caroling sing-
along with the theater’s
house organist playing the
Wurlitzer.
CHURCH HILL
One of Richmond’s most
storied neighborhoods is
Church Hill, not far from
downtown. You’ll want to
stroll the streets (studded
with elegant row houses
decorated for the holidays)
near picturesque Historic
Saint John’s Church, where
Patrick Henry famously
gave his “Give me liberty,
or give me death!” speech.
LONG WEEKEND
Breakfast at Sub Rosa Bak-
ery is a must. Many claim
it’s the best one in town,
and their croissants might
convince you. Pick up lunch
(try the Reuben) at Union
Market and unique gifts at
Dear Neighbor. Locals flock
to The Roosevelt for upscale
Southern cuisine (and such
small plates as BBQ Pork
Rinds with house-made
pimiento cheese or corn-
bread with whipped maple
butter). They also frequent
Metzger Bar & Butchery for
the duck breast, spaetzle,
and pork schnitzel. Alewife
is the seafood darling in
RVA, where the Siren’s Song
sampler may be the greatest
gift you give yourself this
year. Don’t miss dessert
at Proper Pie Co. Seasonal
favorites like the Pumpkin &
Salted Caramel go fast, so
get yours while you can.
LIBBIE & GROVE
In The West End, you will
want to start your day at
Westhampton Pastry Shop,
an institution where lines
form for Christmas tree
coffee cakes and “Fadeaway”
bakery confections available
only during the holidays. Hit
the Shops at 5807 for booth-
style browsing in a large
market hall. Take a short
walk over to Grove Avenue,
where you can be fitted for a
All Decked Out
(From top) Homeowners in
neighborhoods like the Fan
District and Church Hill pull
out all the stops, decorat-
ing front doors with fresh
greenery and bright red
ribbons. Sandwiches and
treats are served during
Holiday Afternoon Tea at
The Jefferson Hotel.
custom suit from Richmond-
based menswear brand
Alton Lane, grab presents
for her at Nellie George, and
buy decadent handcrafted
sweets at Gearharts Fine
Chocolates. Eat lunch at
Jack Brown’s. The burgers
here are legendary, but save
some room for supper at
Shagbark, featuring artisan
cocktails and a menu that
celebrates Virginia.
SOUTHSIDE
Cross the James River on
the photogenic Nickel Bridge
SOU THERN L IVING 81
 LONG WEEKEND

Just Once a Year

(From left) The Jefferson Hotel is
never more beautiful than right
now, cloaked in its holiday finery.
Find lots of sweets at local eateries
and pop-ups like Jingle Belle.

(the toll is now 35 cents,
but the nickname remains),
and hit the artsy Southside.
Blanchard’s Coffee Roasting
Co. is popular with java con-
noisseurs, and WPA Bakery
has tempting homemade
treats. Head to Nest antiques
for one-of-a-kind gifts. At
dinnertime, a cozy booth
at Laura Lee’s is the perfect
spot to relax. Then stop by
The Veil Brewing Co.’s new
outpost on Forest Hill Avenue
for a craft IPA.
CELEBRATE
LIKE A LOCAL
Richmond is passionate
about its seasonal traditions,
many of which require
some advance planning.
Mandy Scandlen, who
moved here from Washing-
ton, D.C., loves tea at The
Jefferson Hotel. “The day the
reservations start, you have
to be up early and call when
the lines open in order to get
a table,” says the mom of four.
“There’s not a square inch
of the hotel that hasn’t been
touched with decorations.
Getting dressed up to go
downtown for tea is what
signals the arrival of the
holidays for me.”
Another can’t-miss is the
RTD Tacky Lights Tour. (A
list of showy stops is posted
annually on the Richmond
Times-Dispatch website.)
“My family adores this, and
it always makes me giggle
with joy to see these wild
and crazy displays people
put so much time into,” says
English transplant Alexandra
Krost, a film producer. “There
is nothing quite like it back
where I come from.”
Peyton Jenkins, cofounder
and president of Alton Lane,
shares his two must-dos:
“First, get dressed up, grab
some friends, go to Lemaire,
treat yourself to a cocktail
(the 1895 will do), and find a
seat in the Rotunda room to

82 DEC E MBE R / 2021

 LONG WEEKEND

take in all the decorations.
Second, head to my favorite
cocktail bar in the city, The
Jasper, where they do the
holidays right. It’s Rich-
mond’s version of Rolf’s in
New York City. Get there
early, or dress warmly, as
you’ll have quite the line to
wade through.”
Lillian Bennett Saadat-
mand, principal and owner
of Lillian Bennett Studio,
loves wandering the illumi-
nated Lewis Ginter Botanical
Garden and then going to
the Quirk Hotel for a cocktail
by the pink Christmas tree.
Artist WonJung Choi and
her husband, glassblower
Bo Yoon, bundle up for long
walks with their daughter
through the Fan District to
the Virginia Museum of
Fine Arts (VMFA), where
admission is free and the
cafe, Amuse, serves a
special holiday luncheon
on Christmas Day.
For creative consultant
Courtney Ferrell, nothing
else can compare to the
Richmond Community
Nativity Pageant, an annual
event held since the 1920s.
“It’s one of our richest tradi-
tions, with people in the
community taking part in
it every year on ‘Christmas
Adam,’ which is December
23,” she says. “Listening
to everyone singing ‘Silent
Night’ is one of the Hallmark
moments of the season for
my family.”
BOOK
YOUR
STAY
The Jefferson Hotel,
which first opened in
1895, is a Richmond
institution, especially
at this time of year.
Locals flock here for
drinks and dinner at
Lemaire, while out-
of-towners come for
food and festivities—
such as the Holiday
Afternoon Tea and
the impressive 30-foot
Christmas tree, which
will be shining on
November 29, the
same day the giant
gingerbread display
will be unveiled.
The seasonal house
cocktail is a Smoking
Cigar made from
Lemaire’s barrel-
select Elijah Craig
bourbon.

At the modern Quirk

Hotel downtown,
the signature pink
Christmas tree in its
stunning arcade is an
homage to the happy
hue that adorns this
Two Must-Sees chic stay. The Quirk’s
(From left) Lewis thoughtfully curated
Ginter Botanical
boutique is the ideal
Garden is always
worth a visit, spot for finding gifts
but its annual and stocking stuffers.
GardenFest of
Lights takes Insider tip: Both
decorating to a the Quirk Hotel and
whole new level. The Jefferson are near
Stop by The the Science Museum
Jasper, one of
of Virginia, where
Richmond’s
Richmond’s annual
most popular
Christmas Parade
bars, to enjoy a
cocktail and begins. This year, it’s
chase the chill. scheduled to be on
December 4 at 10 a.m.

Some establishments may experience COVID-19 closures. SOU THERN L IVING 83

 first issue

ALL-
NEW
from People
Magazine
#210494

Become an Insider ...

FULL YEAR 62% OFF

PeopleRoyals.com/get
 THE SOUTH

Let’s Celebrate
All of downtown Greenville gets into
the spirit with outdoor attractions
like a Christmas tree lighting and
an ice-skating rink.

MAGIC AROUND
MAIN STREET
Each year, the city lights up
with community activities,
and you can find something
around every corner. Part of
the credit goes to the annual
Window Decorating Contest
on Main Street, which invites
area merchants to dress up
their storefronts. Look for
gifts at Mast General Store,
O.P. Taylor’s toy shop, M.
W E E K EN D TRIP
Judson Booksellers, and
the Greenville Soy Candle

City of Good Cheer Company, and then stock up

at Christmas pop-up shops
and markets like the one
Plan a getaway to Greenville, South Carolina, where you can hosted by Swamp Rabbit
walk in a (mild-weather) winter wonderland Cafe & Grocery.
As you stroll through
town, prepare to encounter
T UC K ED UP AGAIN ST the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Greenville has built a a giant Christmas tree or
reputation for great Southern food and hospitality, but this place really turns on the charm two. While some evergreens
come December. From outdoor events that make the most of cooler temperatures to are trimmed for the Festival
ice-skating and tree trimming, there is fun to be had for the whole family in and around of Trees competition, the
the South Carolina Upcountry. most dazzling is the official

by CAROLINE ROGERS photographs by CAMERON REYNOLDS SOU THERN L IVING 87

 WEEKEND TRIP

For Your Nice List

Boutiques, including Poppington’s Gourmet
Popcorn (left) and Dhier Home (below), add
extra sparkle to Greenville.

city tree that stands 30 feet (The rink usually opens in

tall and is located downtown
at Main and Court Streets
in the plaza just outside
M. Judson Booksellers. In
NOMA Square, visitors
will discover an oversize
menorah, which is lit at the
annual Chanukah on Main
to mark the first night of
the holiday.
During your trip, you
will also notice an outdoor
ice-skating rink that might
seem a bit familiar. The
United Community Bank
Ice on Main is a miniature
replica of the iconic one
found at New York City’s
Rockefeller Center. Strung
with lights and filled with
skaters, it has become a
popular draw for families.
November, and tickets can
be purchased online.)
Most of the seasonal
crowd travels via ice skates
or walking shoes, but a
certain very special guest
has a showier mode of
transportation. During the
annual Poinsettia Christmas
Parade, you could catch a
glimpse of Santa Claus’
motorized sleigh, which is
actually an upgraded 1993
Ford Aerostar.
DOWN BY THE
RIVERSIDE
Unless there’s a rare South
Carolina snowfall, follow the
lead of Greenville locals and
explore the outdoors. Walk
along the city’s tree-lined
sidewalks illuminated by
twinkling lights. Cycle the
Prisma Health Swamp Rab-
bit Trail, a 22-mile greenway
that runs next to the Reedy
River in the footprint of an
old railroad corridor. Stop
at the shops, restaurants,
and breweries along the
way. Wander through Falls
Park on the Reedy, a serene
local favorite in the heart of
Greenville. Soon, you’ll also
be able to enjoy Unity Park,
a 60-acre downtown green
space that is set to open
in 2022. Its plan includes
places to roam and play,
and construction is already
underway on a pedestrian
bridge extending over the
Reedy River.
You’ll find a multitude of
museums, art galleries, and
theaters in town too. Each
year, the International Ballet
puts on The Nutcracker at
the Peace Center, and there’s
also the Holiday at Peace
concert with the Greenville
Symphony Orchestra. (Be
sure to warm up your voice
beforehand: This event has
included audience sing-
alongs in the past.)
Whether you’ve come to
sing, shop, sightsee, or cycle,
this riverside city delivers—
offering a generous dose of
seasonal spirit.

88 DEC E M BER / 202 1 Some establishments may experience COVID-19 closures.

 SL Travel Planner S TA R T P L A N N I N G TO DAY: S LT R AV E L P L A N N E R . C O M

45 Tennessee Tourism
46 Visit Clarksville TN

A043 Texas
47 The Great State of Texas

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48 Virginia is for Lovers
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50 Destination DC Official
Visitors Guide

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51 Elkins-Randolph County
Tourism CVB
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54 Tucker County,
West Virginia
55 West Virginia
A001 Alabama 15 Maryland Office of 35 Experience Columbia SC Department of Tourism
1 Sweet Home Alabama Tourism 36 Festival of Houses and
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2 Arkansas, The Natural
18 Ocean City, Maryland 37 Hilton Head Wine & Food A060 Books & Collectibles
State
Resort Hotels Festival 57 The White House
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Arundel County Exposition (SEWE)
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59 Shenandoah Valley
24 New Albany, Mississippi 42 Elvis Presley’s Graceland
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25 Sugaree’s Bakery 43 Memphis: Home of Blues,
7 Fannin County Chamber Winchester, VA
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of CVB
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CARROLL
9 Experience Kentucky’s
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biltmore.com
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11 Louisiana Office of Outer Banks
Tourism 31 The Crystal Coast
- North Carolina’s
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carrollcountytourism.org
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Garrett County 33 Charleston Area CVB
14 Kent County, MD 34 Discover South Carolina

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CAROLINA
PORCH WEATHER
Mild winters make
alfresco dining
doable. Greenery
foraged from the
property creates a
festive (and free)
table runner.
Opposite page:
Jenni and Mike
(right) with their
dog, Rocky
 A W HOL E L ATA

CHR IST M A S
Across the harbor from Charleston, South Carolina, Mike Lata
and Jenni Ridall enjoy dinner on the front porch, oysters all around,
and a game plan that leaves time to savor the season
PROP ST YLING AN D FLORAL DES IGN : SARA YOR K GR IMS HAW

TEXT BY PAULA DISBROWE RECIPES BY MIKE LATA AND JENNI RIDALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER FRANK EDWARDS
 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
A walnut dressing adds rich-
ness. Green and silver set a
simple scene. Lata prefers
oysters with deep cups to
was the hardest thing ever,” Lata says. hold more filling. Liver toasts
make a pretty starter. Fresh
“Jenni’s organization helped pull it off.”
decor nods to the season.
In 2018, she struck out on her own to
create TK Test Kitchen, a culinary con-

W
sulting business. The couple married in
2019, so their holiday rituals are new and

“
evolving. “Jenni brings strong family coming table on the front porch, where
traditions to our relationship,” Lata says. they’ll serve a feast on Christmas Eve.
“She ignited my desire to play along and From Lowcountry Fish Stew to Roasted
start creating our own Christmases that Oysters with Mushrooms and Watercress,
our children (9-year-old Henry and their smart, seasonal menu is designed
1-year-old Oscar) would remember.” with plenty of do-ahead components.
Their home on James Island, a quiet Planning is everything, Lata empha-
community across the harbor from sizes. “We don’t just dream up these
e’re not Charleston, is an inspiring muse. The meals,” he says. “We give a lot of thought
cuckoo for Christmas decorations,” three-bedroom 1740s Dutch Colonial sits to organizing, because who wants to be
explains chef Mike Lata, owner and culi- on a leafy, 2-acre property where Ridall in the weeds at home?” That means when
nary force behind FIG and The Ordinary forages for cypress, magnolia, and tea Ridall’s family arrives from Atlanta (along
restaurants in Charleston, South Carolina. olive clippings to arrange around the with a tumble of young kids), there’s
“We have friends who go deep, but that’s windows, on the porch, and on the man- nothing to do but uncork a bottle of cold
not us.” These are not the words of a tels of five fireplaces. white Burgundy, watch the happy chaos
grinch. While it’s true that he and his The fragrant greens and simple adorn- unfold, and toast to a job well done. “We
wife, Jenni Ridall, can fit their combined ments (glowing votives, sage green tapers, celebrate the real blessing that is our
collection of ornaments in one box, they and stemmed wineglasses) create a wel- family,” Lata says.
wholeheartedly embrace the season in
their own style. As you might imagine,
that means devoting abundant attention
to their menu.
After all, it was a passion for the plea-
sures of the table that brought them
together. Lata moved to Charleston as
a young chef in 1998 and then opened
FIG in 2003 and The Ordinary in 2012.
Ridall came to the industry later in life,
after studying art history and then culi-
nary technique at Le Cordon Bleu. They
met when she applied for a job at FIG in
February 2015. “Even before then, I was
drawn to Mike’s food and his aesthetic,”
she recalls.
Ridall worked at FIG and The Ordinary
as a culinary administrator, documenting
endless variations of dishes, transcribing
recipes written on napkins and in note-
books, and planning events. “We did one
in Aspen, Colorado, for 600 people that

92 D EC E MBE R / 2021
SOUTHER N LI VING 93
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
Cozy Christmas Eve
moments abound in front
of the fire. Lata seasons
the seafood stew. Freshly
grated horseradish gives
the toasts a spicy finish. A
medley of seafood brings
lots of flavor.
Winter Greens Salad with
Creamy Walnut Vinaigrette
“The nice thing about heartier winter
greens is that they hold up after they’ve
been dressed,” Lata says. “I’m a huge fan
of mint. You can get it year-round, and it
makes the salad taste alive and fresh.”
ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 45 MIN.
SERVES 6
3/4 cup walnuts
1/2 cup canola oil
11/2 Tbsp. finely chopped shallot (from
1 shallot)
21/2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar
2 Tbsp. mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. cold water
1/2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1/4 tsp. coarse kosher salt
1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
8 cups torn hearty greens (such as
escarole, radicchio, or endive)
1/4 cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley
leaves, roughly chopped
SOUTHER N LI VING 9 5
 1/4 cup lightly packed mint leaves, torn
1 oz. pecorino Romano or Parmesan
cheese, shaved (about 1/2 cup)
1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Spread walnuts
in an even layer on a baking sheet; toast in
oven until golden and fragrant, about 20
minutes. Remove from oven; cool about
15 minutes. Combine canola oil and 1/4 cup
of the cooled walnuts in a blender; pulse
until well incorporated (a few chunks are
fine), 4 to 5 times. Set aside.
2. Whisk together shallot, sherry vinegar,
mayonnaise, water, and Dijon mustard
in a medium bowl until well combined.
Slowly whisk in walnut-canola oil
mixture until emulsified. Season with
salt and pepper.
3. Combine hearty greens, parsley, and
mint in a large mixing bowl. Add 1/2 cup of
the vinaigrette; toss to combine. Mound
salad into a serving bowl; drizzle with
remaining 1/4 cup vinaigrette. Top with
pecorino and reserved walnuts.
Roasted Oysters with
Mushrooms and Watercress
Oysters might seem intimidating, but a
bit of advance prep makes this appetizer
simple. “The mushroom stuffing can be
prepared and refrigerated a couple of
days ahead,” Lata says. “Then, it’s easy
to finish them off.”
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 40 MIN.
SERVES 8
1 Tbsp. olive oil
2 oz. diced pancetta
1 cup finely chopped shallots (about
4 small shallots)
1/4 cup finely chopped garlic (about 10
cloves)
8 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed
and roughly chopped (about 4 cups)
1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper
2 oz. dry sherry
1 (4-oz.) pkg. watercress (about 4 cups)
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives
1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
1 tsp. kosher salt
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
2 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese,
grated (about 1/2 cup)
1 (4-lb.) box rock salt
2 dozen deep cup East Coast oysters
3 (1- x 11/2-inch) lemon peel strips,
96 D EC E M BE R / 202 1
thinly sliced
Lemon wedges, for serving
1. Heat a large skillet or Dutch oven over
medium-low. Add olive oil and pancetta,
and cook, stirring often, until pancetta is
brown and fat has rendered, about 5
minutes. Add shallots and garlic; cook,
stirring often, until lightly brown and
toasted, about 5 minutes. Add mushrooms
and crushed red pepper; cook, stirring
often, until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Add
sherry; cook until reduced by half, about
1 minute. Stir in watercress, basil, chives,
and thyme; stir until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes.
Remove from heat; season with kosher
salt. Add 2 tablespoons of the butter; stir
until melted. Transfer to the bowl of a food
processor. Pulse until finely chopped but
not pureed, 4 to 5 pulses.
2. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter
in a medium skillet. Add panko; cook,
stirring constantly, until deep golden,
about 4 minutes. Transfer to a medium
bowl; cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Stir
in Parmigiano-Reggiano.
3. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed
baking sheet with rock salt. Shuck
oysters; loosen adductor muscles so
oysters float freely in liquor in bottom
cup. Gently remove any dirt or debris,
taking care not to spill the briny liquor.
Top each oyster with about 1 tablespoon
mushroom mixture and 2 teaspoons
panko mixture. Nestle oysters into rock
salt on prepared pan. Roast until bubbly
and hot, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from
oven; garnish with lemon peel strips.
Serve hot with lemon wedges.
Lowcountry Fish Stew
A version of this dish, a Lowcountry riff
on French bouillabaisse, has been on the
menu at FIG since 2003. If the broth is
made in advance, this stew is quick to
assemble. Lata says to simmer the fish
until it’s just done to preserve the delicate
textures and flavors.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 30 MIN.
SERVES 6
AÏOLI
2 pasteurized egg yolks, at room
temperature
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1 tsp. coarse kosher salt, plus more
to taste
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Benne Seed 101
Enslaved Africans first brought
benne to the Carolinas in the 18th
century, where it was cultivated
in their gardens and eventually
introduced to the region’s rice
culture. “Unlike modern sesame
seeds, heirloom benne seeds
have a rich, wonderful profile
that’s worth seeking out from
Southern purveyors of organic
heirloom grains like Anson Mills,”
Lata says. “At the restaurants,
we lightly toast them in the oven
at 300°F until they turn deep
golden and take on a nice, earthy
bitterness. I think they have a
truffle-esque nuance.”
1 cup olive oil
1-2 large garlic cloves
STEW
5 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for garnish
11/2 cups chopped red onion (from 1 onion)
1 cup chopped fennel (from 1 fennel bulb)
1 cup chopped celery (about 3 stalks)
1 cup chopped leeks, white and light
green parts only (from 2 leeks)
1 cup chopped shallots (from 3 shallots)
6 garlic cloves, crushed
2 fresh bay leaves
31/2 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 lb. large (21-25 count) peeled, deveined
raw white shrimp, shells reserved
1 lb. (1- to 11/2-inch-thick) firm white fish
fillet (such as flounder, grouper, snapper,
or bass), cut into (2- x 1-inch) strips,
fish bones reserved
2 cups crisp unoaked white wine (such as
Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc)
2 oz. anise-flavored liqueur (such as
Pernod, optional)
1/8 tsp. saffron threads (optional)
2 (3- x 1-inch) orange peel strips (from
1 orange)
2 medium carrots, sliced diagonally into
1/4-inch-thick slices
2 cups (1-inch) cubed green cabbage
(from 1 small cabbage)
11/2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
to taste
18-24 little neck clams (1 lb.), scrubbed
 1 lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus lemon
wedges for serving
Finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley,
for garnish
Cooked Carolina Gold Rice Middlins
(recipe follows) or white rice
Toasted or grilled sourdough bread
1. Prepare the Aïoli: Combine egg yolks,
vinegar, salt, and lemon juice in a medium
bowl, and whisk vigorously until pale
yellow and foamy. Slowly drizzle in olive
oil, whisking constantly until thick and
emulsified. Scrape down sides of bowl
with a spatula. Using a Microplane grater,
finely grate 1 garlic clove into Aïoli. Taste;
add more garlic and salt, if desired. Cover;
chill until ready to use.
2. Prepare the Stew: Heat olive oil in a
large heavy-duty pot or Dutch oven over
medium. Add red onion, fennel, celery,
leeks, shallots, garlic, and bay leaves.
Reduce heat to medium-low, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until vegetables are
softened but do not take on any color, 5
to 8 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, and
cook, stirring often, until mixture darkens
slightly, about 2 minutes. Add shrimp
shells and fish bones; cook, stirring often,
5 minutes. Add wine and liqueur (if
using), and bring to a boil over medium.
Once it reaches a boil, add 6 cups water,
saffron (if using), and orange peel. Return
to a boil; reduce heat to low, and simmer
45 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh
sieve into a bowl; discard solids. (At this
point, the broth can be frozen. I highly
recommend making this ahead. Feel free
to double the batch and freeze it, as this
is the majority of the work in the recipe.)
3. Bring broth to a simmer in a 6-quart
pot over medium. Add carrots, cabbage,
salt, and little neck clams; simmer,
covered, until clams start to open (some
might not be completely open yet) and
vegetables are tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add fish, mussels, and shrimp. Cover;
simmer gently over medium until just
cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes. Using
a slotted spoon, divide seafood and
vegetables evenly among serving bowls.
Remove pot from heat, and whisk in
butter, cayenne pepper, and lemon juice.
Season with additional salt as needed.
4. Ladle broth over seafood and vegetables
in bowls. Garnish with parsley and a few
drizzles of olive oil. Serve with warm rice,
toasted bread, and Aïoli.
Carolina Gold Rice Middlins
ACTIVE 10 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR
SERVES 8
2 cups Carolina Gold rice grits
or middlins
2 bay leaves
11/2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
to taste
11/2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Toasted benne seeds
Thinly sliced scallions
1. Place rice in a large bowl, and fill bowl
with cold water. Stir thoroughly or
massage rice with your hands, and drain.
Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times until
water is crystal clear. Cover rice with fresh
cold water, and soak 30 minutes; drain.
2. Meanwhile, add 2 cups water, bay
leaves, and kosher salt to a medium
saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-
high. Add soaked rice to boiling water,
and stir well. Return to a boil, and stir
again. Reduce heat to low, and stir one
more time. Cover and simmer, undis-
turbed, until all liquid is absorbed, 10 to
12 minutes. Remove from heat, and let
stand, covered, 7 minutes. Add butter, and
fluff rice with a fork until butter is melted.
Discard bay leaves. Season with additional
salt to taste.
3. Transfer to a serving bowl. Garnish
rice with toasted benne seeds and thinly
sliced scallions.
Chopped Chicken Livers on Toast
This easy make-ahead dish is basically
chicken salad made with livers. “We
convert a lot of our guests on livers,” Lata
says. “It’s one of those things people
think they don’t like…so we serve them
at dinner parties, and everyone really
enjoys them.”
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 45 MIN.
SERVES 10
2 lb. chicken livers
2 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
to taste
11/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper,
divided, plus more to taste
8 center-cut bacon slices (8 oz.),
chopped
11/2 cups mayonnaise
1/4 cup minced red onion
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
21/2 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
4 large hard-cooked eggs, peeled
and roughly chopped (11/2 cups)
2-3 dashes hot sauce (such as Tabasco),
plus more to taste
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, at room
temperature
1 (12-oz.) artisanal sourdough bread
loaf, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices
(about 10 slices), toasted
Thinly sliced radish
Mustard microgreens
(optional)
Grated fresh horseradish
1. Clean chicken livers of any bruises,
membranes, and connective tissue,
leaving livers as whole as possible, and
pat dry. Season with 1 1/2 teaspoons of the
salt and 1 1/4 teaspoons of the pepper on
both sides, and set aside.
2. Heat a large cast-iron or nonstick
skillet over medium. Add bacon slices,
and cook, stirring occasionally, until
bacon is crisp and fat is rendered, about
5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer
bacon to a plate lined with paper towels,
and set aside.
3. Working in batches, add chicken livers
to skillet with bacon fat. Cook over
medium until browned on both sides and
pink in the center, 3 to 5 minutes total.
Transfer livers to a baking sheet lined with
parchment paper, scraping all browned
bits on top. Let cool to room temperature,
about 15 minutes.
4. Stir together mayonnaise, red onion,
parsley, whole-grain mustard, lemon
juice, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and
1/4 teaspoon pepper in a large bowl. Cut
cooked livers into 1/2-inch cubes, and add
to mayonnaise mixture. Add hard-cooked
eggs and cooked bacon. Gently fold
everything together with a rubber spatula
until just combined. Season with hot
sauce, and add additional salt and pepper,
if desired.
5. Spread butter over toasted bread, and
top slices evenly with chopped chicken
liver mixture. Garnish evenly with thinly
sliced radish, mustard microgreens (if
using), and freshly grated horseradish.
Serve immediately.
SOU THERN L IVING 97
 C H R I S T M A S -M O R N I N G

GRAMMY ROLLS
Prepared the night before and then baked first thing the next day, Ridall’s
cherished family recipe fills the house with cinnamon-scented cheer

WHEN JENNI RIDALL was a girl, the main event on December
25 wasn’t the traditional midday meal, when they’d serve roast
beef or pork. It was breakfast. She and her family would wake
up to the sweet aroma of Grammy Rolls that had been rising
while they slept.
“My mom kept the original recipe for these rolls, which
came from her grandmother, on an index card,” she recalls.
“They go back a long way in our family. It was always a
tradition to prepare them on Christmas Eve to bake the next
morning.” When she was 10 or 11, her mother was busy
raising three kids and stopped making them. “The recipe card
was lost, and the rolls disappeared,” says Ridall.
Years later, when she was in culinary school, Ridall and her
mom tried to track it down. She asked some of her professors
for guidance and attempted to re-create the rolls from mem-
ory countless times, with renewed determination. The recipe
is essentially monkey bread, with balls of dough covered in
cinnamon sugar. “I remember dipping the dough in melted
butter and sugar. It was gooey, sticky, and fun, and it had the
most wonderful cinnamon smell,” she says. “My mom sent me
her grandmother’s thin aluminum tube pan, and I finally nailed
it. I called Mom and said, ‘We did it!’ ”

Grammy Rolls
ACTIVE 40 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 20 MIN., PLUS 1 HOUR RISING AND 1 HOUR STANDING - SERVES 8

2 cups warm whole milk (about
95°F)
9 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
and divided
1 cup granulated sugar, divided
1 (1/4-oz.) envelope active dry
yeast (21/4 tsp.)
1 tsp. coarse kosher salt
51/4 cups plus 2 Tbsp. all-purpose
flour, plus more as needed
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
11/2 Tbsp. ground cinnamon
Powdered sugar, for topping

1. Stir together milk, 4 tablespoons of
the melted butter, and 1/4 cup of the
granulated sugar in the bowl of a stand
mixer. Whisk by hand until sugar is
dissolved. Sprinkle yeast over top, and
let stand until active and foamy, about
5 minutes. Whisk in salt.
2. Attach dough hook to stand mixer.
With mixer on low speed, add 5 cups
of the flour, 1 cup at a time, until a
shaggy dough starts to come together.
Increase speed to medium, and mix
until dough is smooth and tacky but
will pull away cleanly from sides of
bowl, about 5 minutes. Add additional
flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, to achieve
this texture.
3. Butter a large mixing bowl with
softened butter. Form dough into a
ball, and place in prepared bowl; cover
with plastic wrap. Let rise at a warm
room temperature until doubled in
size, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
4. Pour remaining 5 tablespoons melted
butter in a medium bowl. Whisk
together cinnamon and remaining 3/4
cup granulated sugar in a medium-size
shallow bowl.
5. Transfer dough to a clean work
surface. Portion into roughly 45 (1-
ounce) pieces. Cup your hand on top
of 1 piece of dough. Gently press it
against the counter, moving in a tight
circular motion until you have a
smooth ball. Repeat with remaining
dough pieces.
6. Dip each ball of dough in melted
butter; then roll in cinnamon sugar to
coat. Arrange dough in two to three
layers in a 10-inch tube pan greased
with butter. Sprinkle any remaining
cinnamon sugar over dough in pan.
Cover with plastic wrap; let stand at
room temperature until doubled in
volume, about 1 hour, or chill dough
overnight.
7. If dough was chilled overnight, allow
it to sit at room temperature for 30
minutes. Preheat oven to 375°F. Bake
rolls until puffy and golden brown, 25
to 30 minutes. Let rolls rest in pan 10
minutes before unmolding. While still
warm, invert pan onto a serving platter
or cake stand; tap to gently release
rolls. Dust with powdered sugar, and
serve warm.

98 D EC E M BER / 202 1
SOUTHER N LI VING 9 9
Absolutely
Ambrosial
One of the South’s sweetest traditions
gets all dolled up for the holidays
in these reimagined desserts

BY EMILY NUNN RECIPES BY PAIGE GRANDJEAN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTONIS ACHILLEOS
PROP STYLING BY GIULIETTA PINNA FOOD STYLING BY ALI RAMEE
 COCONUT-
CITRUS BARS

recipe, page 107

SOUTHER N LI VING 101

 COCONUT PANNA
COTTA WITH
BLOOD ORANGE
GRANITA
recipe, page 107
H E W O R D “A M B R O S I A” gets tossed
T
around very casually these days, often in
reference to foods that may not quite
deserve it. A quick Google search turns up
ambrosial spelt-and-barley soup, ambro-
sial corn dogs, and ambrosial oatmeal.
Ambrosia means “food of the gods.” In
Greek and Roman mythology, it referred to magical victuals with
the power to bestow immortality on anyone who tasted them.
But that was a long time ago in a magical kingdom far, far away.
Today, as most food historians agree, ambrosia belongs to
the South. When it is mentioned, many think of the holiday table
and a serving dish filled to the brim with a fluffy, fruit-studded
concoction rather than visions of eternal life. Or they go even
further back in time to a crystal bowl containing a vivid, sweet
mélange of oranges and coconut.
Recipes for this original version—layers of fresh citrus, sugar,
and coconut—began appearing in cookbooks back in the late
19th century. How ambrosia became a beloved dish in our region
remains vague. Many believe that the completion of the trans-
102 DECE M BER / 2021
continental railroad, which made it easier to obtain fresh coco-
nuts and winter oranges practically anywhere, had a lot to do
with it becoming a special treat during the winter holidays.
Since then, of course, the old-fashioned dish has been bedaz-
zled with maraschino cherries and pineapple—and made richer
with whipped cream, mayonnaise, and sour cream, which
may be why some people consider it to be a salad and others
a dessert. In the 1920s, Whitman’s Marshmallow Whip, a jarred
marshmallow creme, hit shelves. Recipes using the product
soon followed, including one for ambrosia.
If you ask a native Southerner of a certain age, they’ll tell you
about the ritual of cracking, peeling, and grating the coconut.
“You must not use canned cocoanut [sic],” wrote Mary D. Pretlow
in her 1930 book Old Southern Recipes. But in 1949, the tower-
ing American culinary figure (and native Oregonian) James Beard
wrote in The Fireside Cook Book: “The moist canned coconut
is the best for [ambrosia].”
However you like your ambrosia—a simple showcase of
fresh citrus, a fruit-filled cloud, or in one of these sophisticated
desserts—it has earned its spot on the Southern sideboard.
 AMBROSIA
TRIFLE

recipe, page 108

 TROPICAL
COCONUT-
CITRUS PIE

recipe, page 108

 AMBROSIA
CUPCAKES

recipe, page 109

SOU THERN L IVING 105

 AMBROSIA
CHEESECAKE

recipe, page 107

Ambrosia Cheesecake
North meets South in this New York-
style cheesecake with an ambrosia-
inspired citrus topping and coconut-
graham cracker crust. It’s a great make-
ahead dessert too. Prepare and chill the
cheesecake up to four days in advance.
Then add citrus just before serving.
ACTIVE 35 MIN. - TOTAL 4 HOURS, 20 MIN.,
PLUS 12 HOURS CHILLING
SERVES 12
2 cups finely ground honey graham
crackers (from 17 cracker sheets)
11/2 cups unsweetened desiccated coconut
13/4 cups, plus 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar,
divided
11/2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
3 (8-oz.) pkg. cream cheese, at room
temperature
2/3 cup unsweetened coconut cream
(from 1 [131/2-oz.] can)
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 large egg yolk, at room temperature
1 Tbsp. vanilla extract
2 cups assorted citrus segments and
rounds (such as Ruby Red grapefruit,
navel oranges, blood oranges, and
kumquats, from about 2 lb. citrus)
1. Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in
lower third position. Coat bottom and
sides of a 9-inch round springform pan
with cooking spray. Wrap outside of
springform pan with a double layer
of aluminum foil. Set aside.
2. Place graham crackers, desiccated
coconut, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and
1 teaspoon of the salt in a food processor;
pulse until combined, about 5 pulses.
Add melted butter; pulse until evenly
combined, about 10 pulses. Press crust
evenly into bottom and all the way up
sides of prepared springform pan. Bake
in preheated oven until crust is lightly
browned, 14 to 18 minutes. Transfer crust
in springform pan to a wire rack; let cool
completely, about 30 minutes. Do not
turn oven off.
3. Beat cream cheese, coconut cream,
and remaining 1 3/4 cups sugar and 1/2
teaspoon salt with a stand mixer fitted with
a paddle attachment on medium speed
until smooth, about 4 minutes, stopping
occasionally to scrape down sides of bowl.
Reduce speed to medium-low; beat in
eggs and egg yolk 1 at a time, beating
well after each addition. Stir in vanilla.
Pour filling into prepared crust, and
smooth top.
4. Place cheesecake in springform pan
in a large roasting pan. Add boiling water
to roasting pan to reach halfway up sides
of springform pan. Bake at 350°F until
cheesecake is lightly browned on top and
set around edges but still slightly jiggly
in middle, 1 hour to 1 hour, 15 minutes.
Remove cheesecake from roasting pan,
and transfer to a wire rack; let cool
in springform pan completely, about
2 hours. Remove foil from springform
pan, and discard. Cover cheesecake in
springform pan with plastic wrap. Chill
at least 12 hours or up to 4 days.
5. To serve, uncover cheesecake, and
carefully remove edges of springform
pan. Top cheesecake with assorted citrus.
Coconut-Citrus Bars
Made with tangerine juice, cherry syrup,
and a coconut crust, these cookies have
the texture of lemon bars without the
puckery tartness. It’s important to chill
the bars thoroughly before removing
them from the pan, or the crust will be
soft and bend. Bars can be chilled in an
airtight container up to five days. Top
with citrus wedges just before serving.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 3 HOURS, 40 MIN.,
PLUS 6 HOURS CHILLING
SERVES 24
1 cup coconut flour
2 cups all-purpose flour, divided
11/2 cups unsweetened desiccated coconut,
divided
3 cups granulated sugar, divided
3/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 cup unsalted butter, chilled and cut
into 1/2-inch pieces
6 large eggs
1 Tbsp. syrup from jarred maraschino
cherries (such as Luxardo)
1 Tbsp. grated lemon zest plus 1/2 cup
fresh juice (from about 3 lemons)
2 tsp. grated tangerine or satsuma zest
plus 1/2 cup fresh juice (from about
3 tangerines)
Orange food coloring gel
4 (1-inch-thick) sliced citrus rounds, each
cut into 6 wedges (such as tangerine,
satsuma, Ruby Red grapefruit, or
blood orange)
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line bottom and
sides of a 13- x 9-inch baking dish with
heavy-duty aluminum foil, leaving 2 to
3 inches overhang on all sides. Lightly
coat foil with cooking spray.
2. Pulse coconut flour, 1 cup of the all-
purpose flour, 3/4 cup of the desiccated
coconut, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and 1/4
teaspoon of the salt in a food processor
until well combined, about 5 pulses. Add
butter, and pulse until mixture is crumbly,
about 12 pulses. Press mixture evenly
into bottom of prepared pan. Bake in
preheated oven until lightly browned,
18 to 22 minutes. Let cool completely on
a wire rack, about 30 minutes. Do not
turn oven off.
3. Whisk eggs in a large bowl until smooth.
Add cherry syrup, lemon zest and juice,
tangerine zest and juice, and remaining
1 cup all-purpose flour, 2 1/2 cups sugar,
and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Whisk together until
well combined and smooth. Using a
wooden pick, add a small amount of
orange food coloring gel. Stir until evenly
incorporated, adding more food coloring
until desired color. Pour mixture over
crust. Return to oven, and bake at 350°F
until filling is set, 25 to 30 minutes.
Transfer in pan to a wire rack, and let
cool completely, about 2 hours. Cover
and chill until firm, at least 6 hours or
up to 24 hours.
4. Remove from pan using foil overhang
as handles. Cut bars into 24 (about 2-inch)
squares. Cut a small square (about 4
inches) of parchment paper. Sprinkle
remaining 3/4 cup desiccated coconut
over bars, covering half of each bar at
a diagonal, using parchment square as a
guide to form a straight line. Top each
bar with 1 citrus wedge.
Coconut Panna Cotta
with Blood Orange Granita
A tangy, icy citrus granita is perfectly
balanced by the rich and creamy coconut
custard. When shopping, look for canned
unsweetened coconut cream, not cream
of coconut or coconut milk, which are
not as thick.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 30 MIN.,
PLUS 8 HOURS CHILLING
SERVES 6
1 (1/4-oz.) pkg. unflavored gelatin
2/3 cup, plus 3 Tbsp. cold water, divided
13/4 cups heavy whipping cream
SOUTHER N LI VING 107
 1 tsp. vanilla bean paste
¼ tsp. coconut extract
11/4 cups granulated sugar, divided
3/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 (131/2-oz.) can unsweetened
coconut cream
21/4 cups fresh blood orange juice (from
8 blood oranges)
Peeled blood orange rounds
1. Stir together gelatin and 3 tablespoons
of the cold water in a small bowl; let
stand 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, whisk together whipping
cream, vanilla, coconut extract, 1/2 cup of
the sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt in
a small saucepan. Cook over medium,
whisking often, until sugar dissolves and
mixture is hot, 4 to 5 minutes (do not boil).
Remove from heat.
3. Add gelatin mixture to whipping cream
mixture; whisk until fully dissolved. Whisk
in coconut cream. Pour mixture through a
fine mesh strainer into a large measuring
cup with a spout; discard solids. Pour
strained mixture evenly into 6 (6-ounce)
ramekins or straight-sided glasses (about
2/3 cup each). Chill, uncovered, until set, at
least 8 hours or up to 2 days.
4. Meanwhile, stir together remaining 2/3
cup water, 3/4 cup sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon
salt in a small saucepan. Cook over
medium-high, stirring often, until sugar
is dissolved, about 4 minutes. Pour into
a 9-inch square baking pan. Stir in blood
orange juice. Freeze, uncovered, until just
set but not completely frozen, about 2
hours. Rake through granita using a fork,
breaking up any large chunks. Return to
freezer, and freeze 1 hour. Repeat raking
process. If granita is still slightly slushy,
repeat freezing and raking process once
more. Transfer to an airtight container,
and store in freezer up to 2 weeks. Rake
using a fork just before serving.
5. To serve, carefully run an offset spatula
around edges of 1 panna cotta. Dip bottom
half of ramekin into hot water for 10
seconds. Invert panna cotta onto a serving
plate. Repeat process with remaining
panna cottas. Top each with about 1/3 cup
granita. (Reserve remaining granita for
another use.) Garnish with blood orange
rounds. Serve immediately.
Ambrosia Trifle
Toasted peaks of Italian Meringue stand
10 8 D ECE MBE R / 202 1
in for marshmallow creme on the top of
this showstopping dessert. If you don’t
have a kitchen torch, the meringue will
still taste great not toasted. Or save your-
self a step by replacing the meringue
with piles of sweetened whipped cream.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 50 MIN.,
PLUS 6 HOURS CHILLING
SERVES 12
COCONUT PASTRY CREAM
2 (131/2-oz.) cans unsweetened coconut
milk, well shaken and stirred
5 large egg yolks
11/4 cups granulated sugar
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 cup coconut oil
2 tsp. vanilla extract
ITALIAN MERINGUE
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/8 tsp. kosher salt
3 large egg whites, at room temperature
1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
7 cups cubed (1-inch pieces) store-bought
angel food cake
3 cups assorted citrus segments (such as
navel orange, blood orange, or Ruby Red
grapefruit, from about 3 lb. citrus fruits)
11/2 cups chopped fresh pineapple (from
1 small [21/2-lb.] pineapple)
1 cup unsweetened shaved coconut
(such as Mavuno Harvest Dried
Organic Coconut)
2/3 cup drained maraschino cherries (such
as Luxardo, from 1 [131/2-oz.] jar)
1. Prepare the Coconut Pastry Cream:
Whisk together coconut milk and egg
yolks in a medium bowl until well
combined. Whisk together sugar, flour,
and salt in a large saucepan; whisk in
coconut milk mixture. Bring to a boil
over medium, whisking constantly. Boil,
whisking constantly, until mixture is
thick and pudding-like, about 1 minute.
Remove from heat. Add coconut oil and
vanilla; whisk until smooth. Transfer
mixture to a large bowl; press a piece of
plastic wrap directly onto the surface.
Cool at room temperature 30 minutes.
Transfer to refrigerator; chill until cold,
at least 6 hours or up to 2 days.
2. Just before assembling, prepare the
Italian Meringue: Cook sugar, 1/4 cup
water, and salt in a small saucepan over
medium-high, stirring often, until sugar is
dissolved and mixture registers 240°F on
an instant-read thermometer, 6 to 8
minutes. Remove from heat. While sugar
mixture is cooking (after it reaches about
225°F), beat egg whites with a stand mixer
fitted with a whisk attachment on medium
speed until foamy, about 30 seconds. Add
cream of tartar to egg whites; continue
beating on medium speed until soft peaks
form, 1 to 2 minutes. (The goal is for the
sugar mixture to reach 240°F at the same
time the egg whites reach soft peaks.)
Gradually drizzle in sugar mixture, beating
on medium speed. Increase mixer speed
to medium-high; beat until glossy and
stiff peaks form, 1 minute, 30 seconds to
2 minutes. Set aside.
3. Assemble the trifle: Spoon half of the
Coconut Pastry Cream (about 2 cups) in an
even layer in a 3 1/2- to 4-quart trifle dish.
Top with 3 1/2 cups angel food cake cubes,
1 1/2 cups citrus segments, 3/4 cup chopped
pineapple, 1/2 cup shaved coconut, and 1/3
cup cherries. Repeat layers once. Top trifle
with Italian Meringue. Brown meringue
using a kitchen torch, holding torch 1 to 2
inches from meringue and moving torch
back and forth. Serve immediately, or
chill, uncovered, up to 6 hours.
Tropical Coconut-Citrus Pie
Crisp coconut cookies make a special
crust for this creamy riff on Key lime pie.
The crust will feel soft after it has been
parbaked, but it will firm up when cool.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 3 HOURS, 25 MIN.,
PLUS 8 HOURS, 30 MIN. CHILLING
SERVES 8
2 cups finely ground crisp coconut
cookies (from about 14 cookies, such
as Voortman Bakery)
3 Tbsp. granulated sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
4 large egg yolks
2 tsp. grated lime zest (from 2 limes)
1 (14-oz.) can sweetened condensed milk
2/3 cup bottled Key lime juice
1 (8-oz.) pkg. cream cheese, softened
1 (7-oz.) jar marshmallow creme
Garnishes: Thinly sliced pineapple
wedges and citrus slices
1. Lightly coat a 9-inch pie plate with
cooking spray. Pulse cookies, sugar, and
1/2 teaspoon of the salt in a food processor
until well combined, about 5 pulses. Add
butter; pulse until evenly incorporated,
about 10 pulses. Pour mixture into
prepared pie plate; press evenly into
bottom and up sides. Freeze pie shell,
uncovered, until hardened, at least 30
minutes or up to 24 hours.
2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake pie shell
until lightly browned, 12 to 16 minutes.
Let cool completely on a wire rack, about
30 minutes. Do not turn oven off.
3. Beat egg yolks, lime zest, and remaining
1/2 teaspoon salt with a stand mixer fitted
with a whisk attachment on medium-high
speed until pale and fluffy, 5 minutes. Add
condensed milk; beat until thick, 3 min-
utes, stopping occasionally to scrape down
sides of bowl. Reduce mixer speed to low,
and gradually add lime juice, beating until
just combined. Pour into cooled pie shell.
Bake at 350°F until just set (center will be
slightly jiggly), 9 to 11 minutes. Transfer
to a wire rack; cool completely, about
1 hour. Chill, uncovered, until cold, at
least 8 hours or up to 2 days.
4. Beat cream cheese and marshmallow
creme with a stand mixer fitted with a
paddle attachment on medium-high
speed until light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes,
stopping to scrape down sides of bowl as
needed. Spread mixture over top of pie.
Chill until topping firms up slightly, at least
30 minutes or up to 12 hours. Garnish with
pineapple and citrus. Serve immediately.
Ambrosia Cupcakes
These cupcakes are made with a
whopping five types of coconut and
topped with marshmallow-orange
frosting. Cake flour makes the crumb
tender, and coconut flour (look for it in
the baking aisle) adds extra flavor. If
you can’t find coconut sugar, use an
equal amount of granulated sugar.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 25 MIN.
SERVES 24
COCONUT CUPCAKES
3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
1/4 cup coconut oil, solid at room
temperature
11/2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup coconut sugar
4 large eggs
2 cups bleached cake flour
1 cup coconut flour
1 Tbsp. baking powder
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk HOW TO SUPREME
1 cup sweetened shredded coconut
CITRUS FRUITS
1 tsp. vanilla extract
Slice juicy segments without
FROSTING
a trace of the bitter peel
2 cups unsalted butter, softened
2 (7-oz.) jars marshmallow creme
2 tsp. finely grated orange zest,
plus 4 to 6 Tbsp. fresh juice
(from 2 oranges), divided
4 cups powdered sugar
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
Orange peel twists
Maraschino cherries
1. Prepare the Coconut Cupcakes: Preheat
oven to 350°F. Line 2 (12-cup) muffin pans
with paper baking cups; set aside. Beat
butter and coconut oil with a stand mixer
fitted with a paddle attachment on medium 1. CUT THE ENDS
speed until creamy, about 2 minutes. Add Use a sharp knife to slice
granulated sugar and coconut sugar; beat off the bottom and top of the
until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add eggs 1 at citrus. Set the fruit upright
a time, beating well after each addition. on a cutting board.
2. Whisk together cake and coconut flours,
baking powder, and salt in a medium
bowl. Add to butter mixture alternately
with coconut milk in 3 additions, beginning
and ending with flour mixture, beating
on low speed until just combined after
each addition. Stir in shredded coconut
and vanilla.
3. Divide batter among prepared muffin
cups (about 1/4 cup batter each). Bake in
preheated oven until golden and a wooden
pick inserted into centers comes out clean,
18 to 22 minutes. Transfer pans to wire 2. SLICE OFF THE PEEL
racks; cool 5 minutes. Remove cupcakes Following the shape of the fruit,
from pans; cool completely on wire racks, remove the rest of the peel
about 30 minutes. in vertical strips.
4. Prepare the Frosting: Beat butter,
marshmallow creme, and orange zest
with a stand mixer fitted with a paddle
attachment on medium-high speed until
light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Reduce
mixer speed to low; beat in 4 tablespoons
orange juice. Gradually add powdered
sugar, beating on low speed until creamy
and smooth. Beat in remaining 2 table-
spoons orange juice, 1 tablespoon at a
time, as needed to thin frosting. Increase
mixer speed to medium-high; beat until
light and fluffy, about 1 minute.
3. REMOVE THE MEMBRANES
5. Transfer buttercream to a piping bag
fitted with a 1/2-inch closed star piping tip. Hold the peeled citrus in one hand.
Frost cooled cupcakes. Garnish with With your other hand, use the knife
orange peel twists and cherries. to carefully cut toward the center
along each white membrane to
separate the fruit segments.
SOUTHER N LI VING 109
Blue ribbons
are the unifying
theme on
Knapp’s tree,
which she
adorns with
collected family
ornaments.
COMFORT
A N D JOY B l o g g e r Caroline
Harper Knapp
transforms her
family’s new
Houston digs into
a festive retreat
for brightening
spirits and forging
new traditions

BY MARISA SPYKER PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARTA XOCHILT PEREZ STYLING BY JENNY O’CONNOR

CAROLINE HARPER KNAPP felt like last year’s
holiday season couldn’t come soon enough.
After the whirlwind of 2020—which included
welcoming her third baby while juggling the
demands of a new house with a long list of
delayed renovations—finally settling into her
family’s Houston dream home in late summer
felt like the ultimate early Christmas gift. “It
was a long process, but we were able to turn
it into exactly what we wanted,” she says.
When the Knapps found the well-loved
ranch house on a large lot in their neighbor-
hood, it wasn’t exactly a head turner. “It had
spent more than 80 days on the market,” she
recalls. “I think people were intimidated by the
size of the project.” But Knapp, who helms
the lifestyle-and-design blog House of Harper
(houseofharper.com), saw promise in its one-
story, U-shaped layout; sky-high family room
ceiling; and ample outdoor space. Reconfigur-
ing the kitchen and breakfast area to open
up to the family room while connecting it to
1 1 2 DECE M BE R / 202 1
the dining room via a pass-through wet bar
brought the tired 1960s foundation up to date
for a young couple who love to entertain.
Of course, in the midst of a pandemic, big
bashes weren’t in the cards for their first
Christmas in the house. Instead, Knapp worked
on creating an intimate haven that felt familiar
yet fresh for a sparkling new space. “Our old
home didn’t have a front porch, so being
able to really focus on that made decorating
the outside a lot more fun,” she says. Inside,
Knapp’s signature modern-meets-classic
aesthetic informed a lineup of decor choices
that fit naturally into the home while nodding MAKE A
back to Christmases past. “I would describe DAZZLING
my holiday look as traditional but very senti- ENTRANCE
mental,” she notes. “I’m not one for a perfectly Blessed with 100-year-
polished, themed tree. The ornaments we’ve old oak trees and a
collected over the years or that the kids made stately column-lined
porch, the facade didn’t
in school are the ones I get most excited about.”
need much more than a
Here, Knapp shares how she dressed up her fresh coat of paint, says
space with sophisticated style. Knapp. (She opted for
white siding paired with a
front door and shutters
in Benjamin Moore’s
Boothbay Gray, HC-165.)
Holiday decor played up
the home’s outdoor assets
as well, with white lights, a
pair of life-size nutcrack-
ers standing guard by the
entrance, and thick red
ribbons wrapping the
columns so they look like
candy canes.
PLAY THE BLUES
The entry establishes
the home’s old-school-
meets-new tone with
chinoiserie lamps, a pair
of geometric burled wood
stools, and a classic-print
wallpaper. Knapp dressed
up a wreath hung over the
brass-framed mirror with
blue ribbon—a theme that
ties together the rest of
her holiday decor. “It’s not
the usual Christmas hue,
but I’m much more drawn
to French blue than I am to
reds and greens,” Knapp
says. “It’s a color that’s
carried throughout the
house, so it was fun to
bring it into our holiday
palette with ribbon too.”
MIX PAST
WITH PRESENT
Located just off the entry,
the formal living room makes
a grand first impression
thanks to its newly paneled
walls and mix of curated
antiques, including the
blue-upholstered armchairs
and gingham ottomans.
But to keep the setup from
seeming too matchy, Knapp
made sure to blend in some
modern elements, from the
custom painting by artist
Alexis Walter to the green
lacquered lamps that rest
atop thrifted end tables.
“The lighting can make
a space feel really fresh
and young when surrounded
by some more traditional
elements,” explains Knapp.
Fabrics help bring in the
home’s signature hue.
1 14 DECE M BE R / 2021
CELEBRATE
EVERY DAY
The breakfast nook,
which is tucked neatly
into a corner of the family
room, is a place for casual
meals and board games.
Knapp paired the ban-
quette’s year-round
green-and-blue throw
pillows with a matching
gingham tablecloth to
increase the seasonal
spirit. Other nods to the
holiday are more direct.
“As soon as Thanksgiving
is over, I’ll swap out all of
our regular dishes and
move in our Christmas
Spode ones,” says Knapp.
“They help make every
meal feel just a little bit
more special.”
STAGE A
SURPRISE
Although Knapp isn’t
normally one to break
with tradition, she saw
the bonus wet bar—
which connects the
kitchen and dining
room—as an opportunity
for adventure. Cabinetry
painted deep turquoise
(Sherwin-Williams’
Silken Peacock, SW
9059) and paired with
brass hardware strikes
a moody tone.
 LEAVE IT TO THE DETAILS
One of the biggest game changers in the remodel
was opening up the kitchen to the family room
to create a more entertaining-friendly layout. In
keeping with the home’s look, Knapp opted for
Shaker-style cabinetry (painted Benjamin Moore’s
Alabaster) and quartz countertops, punctuated by
contemporary accents such as unlacquered brass
hardware and Circa Lighting jar pendants. Pops of
evergreen add little moments of Christmas cheer.

TIED
TOGETHER
The festive side of
the formal living
room features the
holiday showstopper
along with an antique
secretary desk that’s
perfect for penning
Christmas cards.
While blue is the
tree’s prominent hue,
Knapp introduced
the classic green-
and-red combo
through the gift
wrap. The presents’
mismatched ribbons
were actually a happy
accident. “I was just
working with what
I could find at the
store, but I really do
love how it turned
out,” she says.

1 16 D ECE M BE R / 2021
SAVE ON SOPHISTICATION
When Knapp moved from a small apartment in New York City back to her native
Texas, she found herself with extra square footage to fill. “I had expensive taste
on a budget,” she says. To stretch her cash, she turned to finds from eBay or local
consignment shops, including her dining table, chairs, buffet, and Italian-style
mirror. A mural wallpaper enhanced the formality of the antiques while establishing
the room’s palette. Knapp pulled inspiration for everything—from the chairs’ blush
pink upholstery to her leafy green holiday place mats bought at Hibiscus Linens—
from the shades found on the walls. “I always set the table long before Christmas
dinner so I can enjoy it as part of the decor,” she says.

SOUTHER N LI VING 117

Rum Pa Pa Pum
(Left to right) Rum
cake descended
from early holiday
fruit puddings
and is a favorite
dessert recipe for
Jamaican native
Nicola Blaque. Her
family enjoys a
slice together in
San Antonio.
 A
C A R I BB E A N
C E L E BR AT I O N

U.S. Army veteran and chef Nicola Blaque brings her

Jamaican holiday traditions to the Lone Star State
BY KAITLYN YARBOROUGH PHOTOGRAPHS BY CEDRIC ANGELES
PROP ST YLING: C HA NE L TAR LO

M EM O RIES MIG HT COL LECT as fuzzy visuals in our heads,
able to dance in and out of our subconscious like ballerinas
traipsing across the stage on their tiptoes during a Christmas
performance, but it’s the sounds and scents that bring the
blurred edges of those pictures into focus. They become espe-
cially clear when recalling our fondest holidays of the past: the
smell of sugar cookies wafting from the oven and the clink of
ornaments coming together like toasting glasses of mulled wine.
For U.S. Army veteran, chef, and Texas restaurateur Nicola
Blaque, Christmastime smells like slow-simmering goat curry

SOUTHER N LI VING 119

and spiced punch on the stovetop and sounds like spirited Now, when the holiday season comes around and a busy
Jamaican carols and the glug, glug of rum being poured over schedule keeps Blaque and her family in Texas, she celebrates
a freshly baked cake. in a familiar, fitting way: inviting over anyone who needs a
“I remember always waking up and immediately smelling place to go and serving up the nostalgic dishes of her heritage.
allspice and ginger in the air,” says Blaque, who was born in “My husband and I host soldiers or people who are alone in
Jamaica and lived there until she was 5. “For us, Christmas San Antonio, much like my mom used to do. It’s something
was big, and it was all about the food. My mother would start that my parents passed onto us that feels just as important as
prepping days in advance for the rum cake and sorrel.” (Sorrel the recipes,” Blaque says.
is a sweet, hibiscus-infused Jamaican punch customarily But the revelry comes with a touch of Southern flair. “We’re
enjoyed during the holidays.) in Texas, and we love barbecue! So, we’ll have ribs with the
When she was growing up, Blaque’s Christmases were spent jerk chicken and steamed whole fish. It’s not necessarily
everywhere from New Hampshire to Texas to Hawaii, depend- standard for Christmas, but good food is good food. It is the
ing on where her stepfather (who served in the U.S. Air Force) most universal language. And in Texas, every get-together
was stationed at the time. However, her mother always made deserves ribs, right?” she adds.
sure their family’s Caribbean traditions were upheld, hosting One magical thing about the holidays is that no matter where
other military families for potlucks. “My aunts and grandparents you’re from or which memories you hold most dear, things are
would send huge boxes of spices and ingredients so, no matter often more similar than they are different. The sounds of belly
where my mom was, she could do the feast,” says Blaque. laughs and the smells of your favorite recipes twirl into mind
Typical Christmas meals throughout Jamaican culture include like the tutued Sugar Plum Fairy. After all, fellowship and food
vibrant, piquant dishes such as braised oxtails, fried sweet go together like a slice of rum cake and a glass of punch.
plantains, saltfish and ackee, and sweet
potato pudding. The twinkling star on
top of the Yuletide festivities? Rum cake.
The classic spiked dessert hides out for
N I C O L A’ S RU M C A K E
ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 3 HOURS, 20 MIN., PLUS 8 HOURS STANDING - SERVES 12
hours before the merrymaking begins,
soaking up rum in a secluded cabinet
Baking spray with flour 1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Coat a 9-inch springform
to safeguard it from those who’d like to
11/4 cups cane sugar pan with baking spray; set aside. Beat cane sugar,
take a nibble—or from that one relative
1 cup unsalted butter, butter, burnt sugar, and vanilla in a stand mixer
who’d prefer to add an extra tipple when softened fitted with a paddle attachment on medium-high
no one is watching. 2 Tbsp. burnt sugar speed until soft and fluffy, about 4 minutes.
Kindred to a fruitcake, it calls for (such as Blue Mountain Reduce mixer speed to medium; beat in eggs, 1
Country) or molasses
dried fruits, citrus peels, cozy spices at a time, beating after each addition, stopping

R IGH T: AN TO N IS AC HILLEOS ; FO O D STY LIN G: A LI RA MEE ; P ROP ST YLI N G : G I UL I ET TA PI NNA

like nutmeg and cinnamon, and—of
course—a bit of booze. The dessert and
11/2 cups all-purpose flour
digestif traditionally tops off the savory
feast and keeps the party ticking further
into the night. “I even had rum cake at
my wedding!” she adds.
During the 10 years Blaque served
in the army, she would cook comforting
meals in the barracks for her fellow
soldiers during the holidays, before later
going to culinary school and opening
two successful Caribbean restaurants
in San Antonio. She lives there now with
her two young children, stepson, and
husband Cornelius Massey. Her flagship
restaurant, The Jerk Shack, quickly
became recognized nationally for its jerk
chicken (served by the pound, like Texas
barbecue), while her newer concept, Mi
Roti, offers build-your-own wraps and
bowls inspired by Caribbean street food.
1 tsp. vanilla extract
4 large eggs
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. mixed spice (British
baking spice blend) or
1/4 tsp. each ground
allspice and nutmeg
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 cup port or brandy
2 cups raisins
1/2 cup pitted dried dates
1/4 cup chopped orange
peel (from 1 orange)
1/4 cup chopped lemon
peel (from 1 lemon)
1/2 cup drained maraschino
cherries (from 1 [7-oz.]
jar), plus more for
serving (optional)
1/2 cup dried pitted plums
1/2 cup light rum
Whipped cream, for
serving (optional)
to scrape down sides as needed.
2. Sift together flour, baking powder, cinnamon,
mixed spice, and salt in a medium bowl; stir to
combine. Add flour mixture and port alternately
to butter mixture, beginning and ending with flour
mixture, beating on low speed until fully blended
after each addition, about 2 minutes total. Set aside.
3. Process raisins, dates, orange peels, lemon
peels, cherries, and dried plums in a food
processor almost until a smooth paste forms,
about 2 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides
after 1 minute. Fold raisin mixture into batter;
spoon into prepared springform pan.
4. Bake in preheated oven until cake top is firm to
the touch and a wooden pick inserted into center
comes out clean, 55 minutes to 1 hour, 5 minutes.
Transfer springform pan to a wire rack, and let
cake cool completely, about 2 hours.
5. Pour rum over cake; cover with plastic wrap.
Let stand at room temperature at least 8 hours or
up to 24 hours. Unwrap cake, and remove sides of
springform pan. Serve with whipped cream and
cherries, if desired.

1 20 D EC E M BE R / 202 1
Tipsy Treat
Rum cake needs
time to soak in the
alcohol, so be sure
to plan ahead.
 MINI SWEET
POTATO LATKES
RECIPE, PAGE 129

1 22 D EC EM BE R / 2021
 CRISPY
SPICED
CHICKPEAS
RECIPE,
PAGE 129

EIGHT
G O L D E N, D E L I C I O U S
NIGHTS
Southerners never need a reason to
enjoy fried foods, but Hanukkah calls for something
extra special, like these fancied-up snacks

BY JOHN SOMERALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY VICTOR PROTASIO

FOOD STYLING BY CHELSEA ZIMMER PROP STYLING BY CHRISTINA DALEY
ARANCINI WITH
POMODORO
DIPPING SAUCE
RECIPE, PAGE 129
 OVEN-FRIED
“EVERYTHING”
DRUMETTES
RECIPE, PAGE 130

SOUTHER N LI VING 12 5
 HOMEMADE
POTATO
CHIPS WITH
FRIED HERBS
RECIPE, PAGE 130

1 26 DEC EM BER / 202 1

FRIED OLIVES
WITH BLUE
CHEESE AÏOLI
RECIPE, PAGE 130

CHEESY
POTATO
CROQUETTES
RECIPE, PAGE 131
 FRIED ARTICHOKE
HEARTS WITH ROASTED
RED PEPPER AÏOLI
RECIPE, PAGE 129
Fried Artichoke Hearts with
Roasted Red Pepper Aïoli
ACTIVE 35 MIN. - TOTAL 35 MIN.
SERVES 6
ROASTED RED PEPPER AÏOLI
1 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup sour cream
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
2 garlic cloves, grated (1/2 tsp.)
1 (12-oz.) jar roasted red bell peppers,
drained and thoroughly patted dry
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley
FRIED ARTICHOKE HEARTS
Canola oil
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 Tbsp. whole buttermilk
11/2 cups dry breadcrumbs
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/2 tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste
1 (24-oz.) jar marinated quartered
artichoke hearts, drained and
thoroughly patted dry
1. Prepare the Roasted Red Pepper Aïoli:
Combine mayonnaise, sour cream, tomato
paste, lemon juice, salt, black pepper,
garlic, and roasted red peppers in a food
processor, and process until smooth,
about 1 minute. Stir in parsley. Cover; chill
until ready to serve. (Roasted Red Pepper
Aïoli can be stored in an airtight container
in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.)
2. Prepare the Fried Artichoke Hearts:
Pour oil to a depth of 2 inches in a large
Dutch oven; heat oil over medium to
350°F. Place flour in a medium bowl. Stir
together eggs and buttermilk in a separate
medium bowl until well combined. Stir
together breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoon salt,
and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper in a third
medium bowl. Working in batches, toss
artichoke heart quarters in flour until well
coated. Transfer to egg mixture, and toss
to coat. Place in breadcrumb mixture, and
toss again to coat; place on a baking sheet
lined with parchment paper.
3. Working in 3 batches, fry artichoke
hearts in hot oil, stirring occasionally,
until golden brown, about 1 minute and
30 seconds; drain on a baking sheet
lined with paper towels, and immediately
season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep
warm in a 200°F oven. Allow oil to return
to 350°F between batches. Serve hot
Fried Artichoke Hearts immediately
alongside Roasted Red Pepper Aïoli
for dipping.
Mini Sweet Potato Latkes
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 30 MIN.
SERVES 8
1 large (1-lb.) sweet potato, peeled
2 medium scallions, finely chopped
(about 1/4 cup), plus more thinly sliced
scallions for garnish
1/2 cup potato flour
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste
Canola oil
Sour cream
1. Grate sweet potato using the largest
holes of a box grater (4 cups). Gently
stir together grated sweet potato, finely
chopped scallions, potato flour, eggs,
1 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper in
a large bowl until well combined. Divide
and shape sweet potato mixture into 16
(3-inch) thin patties (about 1/4 cup sweet
potato mixture per patty). Place patties
(latkes) on a baking sheet lined with
parchment paper until ready to cook.
2. Pour oil to a depth of 1/4 inch in a large
skillet, and heat over medium to 325°F.
Working in 4 batches, add latkes to hot
oil, and cook until golden brown and
crispy, about 1 minute and 30 seconds
per side. Transfer to a baking sheet lined
with paper towels, and immediately
season to taste with salt and pepper.
Keep warm in a 200°F oven. Allow hot oil
to return to 325°F between batches. Serve
hot latkes immediately with sour cream;
garnish with thinly sliced scallions.
Crispy Spiced Chickpeas
ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 20 MIN.
SERVES 4
6 Tbsp. olive oil
2 (151/2-oz.) cans chickpeas (garbanzo
beans), drained, rinsed, and dried on
paper towels
2 tsp. za’atar seasoning blend
½ tsp. kosher salt
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium.
Add chickpeas, and cook, stirring
occasionally, until deep golden brown
and crispy, about 16 to 20 minutes. Using
a slotted spoon, transfer chickpeas to a
medium bowl, and toss with za’atar and
salt; serve immediately. (Chickpeas can
be stored in an airtight container at room
temperature for up to 3 days.)
Arancini with Pomodoro
Dipping Sauce
ACTIVE 1 HOUR, 35 MIN. - TOTAL 2 HOURS,
35 MIN.
SERVES 4
POMODORO DIPPING SAUCE
1 (28-oz.) can whole peeled San Marzano
plum tomatoes
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano
1 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic (from
4 small garlic cloves)
2 tsp. granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
ARANCINI
31/2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
(about 1 tsp.)
1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion
(from 1 small onion)
1 cup uncooked Arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup heavy whipping cream
2 Tbsp. sour cream
11/2 oz. Parmesan cheese, grated with
a Microplane grater (about 1 cup)
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/2 tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste
Canola oil
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
1. Prepare the Pomodoro Dipping Sauce:
Process tomatoes in a blender until
smooth, about 10 seconds. Transfer tomato
puree to a large saucepan, and stir in
oregano, garlic, and sugar. Bring to a
simmer over medium-low. Simmer,
stirring occasionally, until thickened,
about 45 minutes. Stir in salt; remove
from heat. Cover to keep warm.
2. Prepare the Arancini: Line a rimmed
baking sheet with parchment paper.
Bring chicken stock to a simmer in
a small saucepan over medium-low.
Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a large
saucepan over medium. Add garlic and
onion. Cook, stirring often, until onion
is translucent, about 4 minutes. Add rice,
and cook, stirring constantly, until rice
is lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Add
SOUTHER N LI VING 12 9
white wine, and cook, stirring often,
until wine is completely absorbed, about
3 minutes. Add hot chicken stock to
rice mixture, 1/2 cup at a time, and cook,
stirring often until stock is completely
absorbed before adding more, about 15
minutes total. Add heavy cream and sour
cream, and cook, stirring constantly, until
mixture is creamy and rice is tender, about
3 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in
cheese, thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2
teaspoon pepper. Pour rice mixture onto
prepared baking sheet, and spread in an
even layer. Chill rice mixture, uncovered,
until cold, about 1 hour.
3. Pour canola oil to a depth of 2 inches in
a large Dutch oven; heat oil over medium
to 350°F. Line a sheet pan with paper
towels; set aside. Place flour in a medium
bowl. Whisk together eggs in a separate
medium bowl until well combined. Place
panko in a third medium bowl. Remove
rice mixture from refrigerator, and shape
into 16 (1 1/4-inch) balls (about 1/4 cup each).
Working with 1 rice ball at a time, place
ball in flour, and toss to coat. Transfer to
whisked eggs, and toss to coat. Place in
panko, and toss again until well coated.
Transfer breaded rice ball to a plate; repeat
process with remaining rice balls.
4. Carefully add rice balls to hot oil in 3 to 4
batches, and fry, stirring occasionally, until
rice balls are deep golden brown, about 3
minutes. Drain on a rimmed baking sheet
lined with paper towels, and immediately
season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep
warm in a 200°F oven. Allow oil to return
to 350°F between batches. Serve hot with
Pomodoro Dipping Sauce.
Oven-Fried “Everything”
Drumettes
ACTIVE 10 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR
SERVES 6
1 cup potato flour
1 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
24 chicken drumettes (about 3 lb.)
3 Tbsp. everything bagel seasoning (such
as Trader Joe’s Everything But the Bagel
Sesame Seasoning Blend)
1. Preheat oven to 450°F on the convection
setting. (If oven does not have a convec-
tion setting, preheat to 450°F.) Line a
rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil,
and place a wire rack on top of foil; spray
rack generously with cooking spray. Stir
13 0 DEC E M BE R / 2021
together potato flour, salt, and pepper in a
medium bowl. Working in batches, toss
chicken in potato flour mixture until
completely coated, and transfer to wire
rack on prepared baking sheet.
2. Bake chicken in preheated oven until
skin is golden brown, about 45 to 50
minutes. (If not using convection setting,
flip chicken pieces over halfway through
bake time.) Remove chicken from oven,
and transfer to a large bowl; do not turn
oven off. Sprinkle chicken with every-
thing bagel seasoning, and toss until
chicken is well coated. Return chicken
to baking sheet, and bake chicken at
450°F until skin is golden brown and
crispy and a thermometer inserted into
thickest portion registers at least 165°F,
about 5 minutes; serve immediately.
Homemade Potato Chips
with Fried Herbs
ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 40 MIN.
SERVES 4
2 medium russet potatoes (about 8 oz.
each), sliced crosswise with a mando-
line into 1/32-inch-thick rounds
Canola oil
4 (6-inch) rosemary sprigs
4 (4-inch) sage sprigs
Fine sea salt
1. Place potato slices in a large bowl,
and add water to cover. Gently agitate
potatoes to release their starches. When
water is cloudy, pour off water, and
discard, leaving potato slices in bowl.
Repeat process 3 times or until water
pours off clear. Pat potato slices dry
with paper towels.
2. Pour oil to a depth of 3 inches in a large
Dutch oven; heat oil over medium to
350°F. Add rosemary and sage sprigs
to hot oil, and fry until leaves are crisp,
about 30 to 45 seconds. Drain on a
baking sheet lined with paper towels
until herb sprigs are cool enough to
handle, about 3 minutes. Carefully
separate leaves from stems, discarding
stems. Set fried herb leaves aside.
3. Reduce heat to low, and allow oil
temperature to drop to 275°F to 300°F.
Working in batches, add potato slices
to hot oil, and fry, stirring gently and
constantly to keep chips separated, until
slices begin to turn a very light golden
brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Drain chips
on a baking sheet lined with paper towels,
and immediately season to taste with sea
salt. Allow oil to return to 275°F to 300°F
between batches. Transfer seasoned chips
to a large bowl, and toss with fried herb
leaves. Serve immediately, or store in an
airtight container at room temperature
for up to 3 days.
Fried Olives with Blue Cheese Aïoli
ACTIVE 35 MIN. - TOTAL 35 MIN.
SERVES 4
BLUE CHEESE AÏOLI
1 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup sour cream
2 medium garlic cloves, grated (1/2 tsp.)
2 oz. blue cheese, crumbled (about 1/2 cup)
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
Thinly sliced chives
FRIED OLIVES
Canola oil
1 cup all-purpose flour, divided
1/2 cup whole buttermilk
1/2 cup corn flour
1/2 cup medium-ground cornmeal
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. smoked paprika
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 (19-oz.) jar pimiento-stuffed green
olives, drained and thoroughly patted
dry (about 32 olives)
1. Prepare the Blue Cheese Aïoli: Combine
mayonnaise, sour cream, garlic, blue
cheese, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a
food processor, and process until smooth,
about 1 minute. Chill until ready to serve.
(Blue Cheese Aïoli can be stored in an
airtight container in the refrigerator for
up to 1 week.)
2. Prepare the Fried Olives: Pour oil to a
depth of 2 inches in a large Dutch oven;
heat oil over medium to 350°F. Place 1/2
cup of the all-purpose flour in a medium
bowl. Pour buttermilk into a separate
medium bowl. Stir together corn flour,
cornmeal, salt, black pepper, paprika,
cayenne pepper, and remaining 1/2 cup
all-purpose flour in a third medium
bowl. Working in batches, toss olives in
all-purpose flour until well coated. Trans-
fer olives to buttermilk, and toss to coat.
Place olives in cornmeal mixture, and
toss again to coat; transfer to a baking
sheet lined with parchment paper.
 3. Working in 3 batches, fry olives in hot
oil, stirring occasionally, until golden
brown, about 1 minute and 30 seconds;
drain on a baking sheet lined with paper
towels. Keep warm in a 200°F oven.
Allow oil to return to 350°F between
batches. Sprinkle chives over Blue
Cheese Aïoli. Serve with hot olives.

Cheesy Potato Croquettes

ACTIVE 1 HOUR - TOTAL 3 HOURS, 10 MIN.
SERVES 8 THE GOLDEN RULES OF FRYING
3 medium russet potatoes (about 3 lbs. For extra-crispy results and less mess, read
total), peeled and quartered
these tips before you get cooking
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 Tbsp. potato flour
3/4 oz. Parmesan cheese, grated with a
Microplane grater (about 1/2 cup)
START WITH A steel pot is much more GET ORGANIZED
THERMOMETER versatile. For deep-
2 oz. mozzarella cheese, shredded (1/2 cup) Frying is a quick
2 oz. sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded If you don’t own one, frying, a heavy Dutch cooking method, so
(1/2 cup) buy a frying or candy oven that has a large there isn’t a lot of extra
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste thermometer that diameter gives you time to devote to last-
1/2 tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste attaches to the side of a wider cooking area. minute kitchen tasks.
11/2 cups panko breadcrumbs a pot or straight-sided Cast iron retains heat (Or for other distrac-
Canola oil skillet. Frying can be longer than other tions, like your phone.)
Thinly sliced chives a dirty job, and having a materials, allowing for Have the ingredients
hands-free tempera- better temperature and equipment in place
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a
ture gauge attached to control and uniform prior to getting started.
boil over high. Add potatoes, and cook
the pot is convenient results. A fully clad Bread all ingredients
until fork-tender, about 18 to 20 minutes.
when you’re dealing stainless steel pot is and wash hands before
Drain potatoes, and let stand until cool
enough to handle, about 10 minutes. with breaded foods, another good option. putting anything in the
Press potatoes through a potato ricer into batters, and hot oil. For panfrying, look fryer, because having
a large bowl (or mash thoroughly with a for heavy-bottomed batter or breading
potato masher); chill, uncovered, until CHOOSE YOUR OIL skillets or sauté pans on your fingers can
cold, about 1 hour. Using your hands, Vegetable, peanut, that will ensure even slow down the entire
gently stir in egg, potato flour, Parmesan, and canola oils are and consistent heating. process. As you cook,
mozzarella, Cheddar, 1 teaspoon salt, and great options for remove impurities (like
1/2 teaspoon pepper until well combined. frying. They have high WATCH THE breadcrumbs) from
Scoop potato mixture, and shape into 20 smoke points (400°F TEMPERATURE the oil with a small
(3-inch) patties (about 1/4 cup per patty). to 450°F) and neutral strainer before they
Make sure that the
2. Place panko in a medium bowl. Working flavors. Plus, they’re build up, burn, and add
oil temperature is
with 1 patty at a time, gently press into usually cheaper than an unappealing flavor.
consistent throughout
panko to coat completely, and transfer to a other neutral oils the cooking process,
baking sheet lined with parchment paper. such as grapeseed or DISPOSE CAREFULLY
especially when frying
Chill, uncovered, for 30 minutes (this will avocado oils. multiple batches. If the Never pour hot oil down
help the panko stick to the patties).
oil isn’t hot enough, a drain. After frying,
3. Pour canola oil to a depth of 1/2 inch PICK THE RIGHT PAN the outer crust will let it return to room
in a large skillet; heat oil over medium
ILLUSTRAT IO N : K E NDY LL H ILLEGAS

(OR POT) cook too slowly and temperature. Carefully

to 350°F. Working in 5 batches, add
The vessel you fry in become soggy and add the cooled oil
croquettes to hot oil, and fry until golden
is just as important greasy. If it’s too hot, back into its original
brown and crispy, about 2 minutes per
as the oil you choose. the crust will darken container, and discard.
side. Drain on a baking sheet lined with
paper towels, and immediately season to Table or countertop and burn before the Some cities also have
taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm in fryers work well and inside has had a programs where used
a 200°F oven. Allow oil to return to 350°F are easy to use, but a chance to cook cooking oil can be
between batches. Garnish hot croquettes Dutch oven or stainless adequately. cleaned and recycled.
with chives, and serve immediately.

SOUTHER N LI VING 131

 T H E G I F T of
C HO C O L A T E
There’s one ingredient everyone can agree on,
so give them what they want this year—tins and platters of decadent
cookies that no one will be able to resist

RECIPES AND TEXT BY JOY HOWARD • PHOTOGRAPHS BY GREG DUPREE

FOOD STYLING BY EMILY NABORS HALL • PROP STYLING BY MARY CLAYTON CARL JONES

CHOCOLATE
GINGERBREAD
WREATHS
recipe, page 143
 RED VELVET
CAKE CRINKLE
COOKIES
recipe, page 140

TRIPLE-
CHOCOLATE
SANDWICH
COOKIES
recipe, page 140
 CORNMEAL-
LIME
COOKIES
recipe, page 142

13 4 D ECE M BE R / 2021
 MINT
MERINGUE
CHRISTMAS
TREES
recipe, page 141

CHOCOLATE-
ALMOND
THUMBPRINTS
recipe, page 144
BOURBON-
ORANGE
BISCOTTI
recipe, page 144

CHERRY-
WALNUT
RUGELACH
recipe, page 143
 EARL
GREY TEA
CAKES
recipe,
page 141

SOUTHER N LI VING 137

 CRUNCHY
PEANUT BUTTER-
CHOCOLATE
SWIRL BARS
recipe, page 142

13 8 D ECE M BE R / 2021
STRIPED SLICE-
AND-BAKE
SHORTBREAD
recipe, page 140

COCONUT-
PECAN
TRUFFLES
recipe, page 142
Triple-Chocolate Sandwich Cookies
If you like MoonPies, you’ll love these
no-bake treats that start with a home-
made chocolate-marshmallow filling that’s
sandwiched between two store-bought
chocolate wafers. The whole thing is
then covered with melted chocolate.
They’re a dream for busy bakers.
ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 35 MIN.
MAKES 1 1/2 DOZEN
4 tsp. dark cocoa (such as Hershey’s
Special Dark)
1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. powdered sugar,
sifted
11/4 cups marshmallow creme
(from 1 [7-oz.] jar)
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
1/4 tsp. vanilla extract
36 chocolate wafer cookies (such as
Nabisco Famous, from 1 [9-oz.] box)
1 (10-oz.) pkg. 60% cacao bittersweet
chocolate chips
1 Tbsp. canola oil
Assorted holiday candy sprinkles
1 cup vanilla-flavored melting wafers
(such as Ghirardelli, optional)
1. Stir together cocoa and powdered sugar
in a medium bowl. Beat marshmallow
creme, butter, and vanilla in a stand
mixer fitted with a paddle attachment on
medium speed until thoroughly blended,
about 2 minutes. Add cocoa mixture, and
beat until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Spread
about 1 tablespoon marshmallow mixture
onto half of wafers, and top with remain-
ing wafers to make 18 sandwich cookies.
2. Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper. Melt chocolate chips according
to package directions; stir in oil until
thoroughly combined. Place 1 sandwich
cookie on a fork; spoon melted chocolate
over top of cookie, spreading chocolate
so it spills over edges and covers sides
completely. Transfer to prepared baking
sheet, and top with desired sprinkles.
Repeat procedure with remaining
sandwich cookies, melted chocolate,
and sprinkles. Refrigerate 15 minutes
before serving.
3. If using vanilla melting wafers, allow
cookies covered with melted chocolate to
chill for 15 minutes. Melt wafers according
to package directions; then place in a
piping bag fitted with a small round tip.
Pipe onto cookies in a zigzag pattern or
as desired.
14 0 D EC E MBE R / 2021
Striped Slice-and-Bake Shortbread
When you want to make lots of baked
goods for giveaways or gatherings, this
slice-and-bake option is a great solution.
You can prepare the dough a day ahead
and then bake and decorate them as
needed. We like the look and texture of
adding metallic sprinkles to the edges,
but feel free to leave them plain or finish
them off with any sort of small sprinkles
you wish.
ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, PLUS 2 HOURS
CHILLING AND 30 MIN. STANDING
MAKES 4 DOZEN
21/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for
work surface
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
softened
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
11/4 tsp. vanilla extract
2 Tbsp. dark cocoa (such as Hershey’s
Special Dark)
Gold and silver metallic candy
sprinkles
11/4 cups semisweet chocolate chips
(from 1 [12-oz.] pkg.)
1 tsp. canola oil
1. Whisk together flour and salt in a small
bowl. Beat butter, powdered sugar, and
granulated sugar with a stand mixer fitted
with a paddle attachment on medium
speed until light and fluffy, about 3
minutes. Add vanilla extract, and beat
until blended, about 10 seconds. Reduce
speed to low, and gradually add flour
mixture, one-third at a time, beating just
until blended after each addition, about
1 minute.
2. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured
surface, and knead a few times until
dough comes together. Halve dough, and
set 1 portion aside for plain dough. Return
remaining dough to mixer, and add cocoa,
beating on medium speed until blended,
about 2 minutes. Divide chocolate dough
and plain dough each into thirds, and roll
each piece into a 15-inch rope. Stack ropes
alternately on top of each other, flattening
each slightly into a strip to cover previous
layer. Roll dough into an even log by gently
pushing each end toward center of log and
rolling as needed. Wrap in plastic wrap,
and refrigerate 2 hours.
3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking
sheets with parchment paper. Trim log so
ends are flat, and slice half of log crosswise
into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Arrange cookies
on prepared baking sheets, spacing them
2 inches apart. Place remaining unsliced
log of dough and 1 baking sheet of cookies
in refrigerator.
4. Bake remaining baking sheet of cookies
in preheated oven until set and lightly
golden on bottoms, about 14 minutes,
rotating baking sheet from front to back
halfway through bake time. Let cool on
baking sheet 5 minutes; transfer cookies
to a wire rack to cool completely, about
30 minutes. Meanwhile, bake remaining
baking sheet of cookies as directed.
Repeat slicing and baking procedure
with remaining dough log in refrigerator,
lining baking sheets with a new sheet of
parchment paper for each batch. Reserve
baking sheets, and line each with a new
sheet of parchment paper.
5. Place sprinkles in small bowls. Melt
semisweet chocolate chips according
to package directions, and stir in oil. To
decorate, dip edge of each cookie in
chocolate mixture, and top immediately
with sprinkles. Place on prepared baking
sheets, and let stand until chocolate sets,
about 30 minutes. Store in an airtight
container until ready to serve.
Red Velvet Cake Crinkle Cookies
There’s a surprise here. These treats
are coated in a snowy layer of powdered
sugar, just like classic crinkle cookies,
but inside they’re more like velvety
chocolate cake (with white chocolate
chips!) than fudgy brownies. To ensure
they have a nice deep hue, use gel food
coloring rather than liquid. The latter
won’t tint the batter as well.
ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 45 MIN.
MAKES ABOUT 2 1/2 DOZEN
21/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup dark cocoa (such as Hershey’s
Special Dark)
11/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 cup packed light brown sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2-3 tsp. red food coloring gel
(such as Super Red)
3 Tbsp. whole milk
 3/4 cup white chocolate chips (from
1 [11-oz.] pkg.)
1 cup powdered sugar
1. Preheat oven to 350°F, and line 2 baking
sheets with parchment paper. Stir together
flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt in a
large bowl. Beat butter and brown sugar
with a stand mixer fitted with a paddle
attachment on medium speed until light
and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a
time, beating until blended after each
addition. Add vanilla and 2 teaspoons food
coloring gel, and beat until well blended,
adding more food coloring, as needed, to
reach desired shade.
2. Add half of flour mixture, and beat on
low speed until well blended. Add milk,
and beat until blended. Add remaining
flour mixture, and beat until blended. Fold
in white chocolate chips using a rubber
spatula. Refrigerate dough for 15 minutes.
3. Place powdered sugar in a small bowl.
Roll dough into 1-inch balls, and roll dough
balls in powdered sugar. Place on prepared
baking sheets, spacing 2 inches apart.
4. Place 1 baking sheet of cookies in
refrigerator until ready to bake. Bake
remaining baking sheet of cookies in
preheated oven until cookies are set in
center and lightly browned on bottoms,
about 16 to 18 minutes, rotating baking
sheet from front to back halfway through
bake time. Transfer cookies to a wire
rack to cool completely, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, repeat procedure with
remaining baking sheet of cookies.
Mint Meringue Christmas Trees
Chocolate-dipped peppermint tree
cookies are the stuff of fairy tales. It
might be tempting to add a star to the
top of each meringue before baking, but
if you’re using gold ones, as we did, it’s
best to wait. Not all metallic sprinkles
are oven safe.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 3 HOURS, PLUS 1 HOUR
COOLING
MAKES 1 1/2 DOZEN
2 large egg whites
1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
1/8 tsp. peppermint extract
1/2 cup superfine sugar (caster sugar)
Green food coloring gel
Rainbow candy sprinkles
1 cup 60% cacao bittersweet chocolate
chips (from 1 [10-oz.] pkg.)
1 tsp. canola oil
1 Tbsp. ready-to-spread vanilla frosting
(such as Duncan Hines Creamy Vanilla
Frosting)
Gold star-shaped candy sprinkles
1. Preheat oven to 200°F. Line a baking
sheet with parchment paper.
2. Beat egg whites with an electric mixer
on medium speed until frothy, about 1
minute. Add cream of tartar, peppermint
extract, and 1 tablespoon sugar. Beat
well, about 30 seconds. Continue adding
remaining sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time,
beating well after each addition. Increase
speed to medium-high, and beat until
stiff peaks form, about 8 minutes. Beat in
desired amount of green food coloring gel.
3. Spoon egg white mixture into a piping
bag fitted with a large star tip. Pipe a
1 1/2-inch dollop of egg white mixture onto
prepared baking sheet, and then pipe
2 slightly smaller dollops on top to create
a tree shape, taking care not to let stacked
dollops separate as you work. Repeat with
remaining egg white mixture, spacing
trees 2 inches apart. Top trees with
rainbow sprinkles. Bake meringue trees
in preheated oven 2 hours. Turn oven
off; let trees cool completely in oven,
undisturbed, 1 hour. Transfer meringues
to a plate; reserve baking sheet, and line
with a new sheet of parchment paper.
4. Melt chocolate chips according to
package directions, and stir in oil until
thoroughly combined. Dip bottom of each
meringue tree in chocolate mixture, and
place on prepared baking sheet. Use a
wooden pick to apply a small dot of
frosting to each star-shaped sprinkle, and
attach one star to top of each meringue
tree. Let stand until chocolate and frosting
are set, about 30 minutes. Store tree
cookies (standing upright) in an airtight
container until ready to serve.
Earl Grey Tea Cakes
A dash of tea leaves gives these dainty,
diamond-shaped cookies their sophisti-
cated taste (and name). If you can’t
find loose tea at the grocery store, you
can also use the leaves from individually
packaged bags. (Depending on the brand,
you’ll need two or three for the recipe.) To
make extra-tender tea cakes, don’t roll
the dough out too thin and be sure to
take them out of the oven as soon as
they’re light golden on the edges.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 20 MIN.,
PLUS 30 MIN. STANDING
MAKES 2 DOZEN
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for
work surface
3/4 tsp. baking powder
1 Tbsp. loose Earl Grey tea leaves
(such as Twinings Earl Grey Tea)
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2 (4-oz.) white chocolate bars, finely
chopped (such as Ghirardelli)
1 tsp. canola oil
Assorted candy sprinkles
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Line 2 baking
sheets with parchment paper. Stir
together flour, baking powder, tea leaves,
and salt in a large bowl. Beat butter and
sugar with a stand mixer fitted with a
paddle attachment on medium speed until
light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg
and vanilla, and beat until fully combined.
Reduce speed to low, and gradually add
flour mixture, one-third at a time, beating
just until blended after each addition.
2. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured
surface, and roll to 1/4-inch thickness.
Cut dough into diamond-shaped cookies
using a 2 1/2- to 3-inch cookie cutter.
Transfer to prepared baking sheets. Gather
and reroll dough as needed.
3. Place 1 baking sheet of cookies in
refrigerator until ready to bake. Bake
remaining baking sheet in preheated
oven until light golden around edges,
about 10 to 12 minutes, rotating baking
sheet from front to back halfway through
bake time. Transfer cookies to a wire
rack to cool completely, about 30
minutes. Meanwhile, repeat procedure
with remaining baking sheet of cookies.
Reserve baking sheets, and line each
with a new sheet of parchment paper.
4. Melt white chocolate according to
package directions, and stir in oil until
thoroughly combined. Place sprinkles in
a small bowl. Dip each cookie in melted
chocolate, and top immediately with
sprinkles; place on prepared baking
sheets. Let stand until chocolate sets,
about 30 minutes.
SOU THERN L IVING 141
Crunchy Peanut Butter-
Chocolate Swirl Bars
A winning combination of white and dark
chocolate swirls atop a rich peanut-
buttery base makes these sliceable
squares irresistible. The bars get their
crunch from the crisp rice cereal and a
sprinkling of roasted peanuts. Because
there’s no baking involved, you can whip
up a batch in just minutes, but beware—
they may disappear just as fast!
ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 20 MIN.,
PLUS 2 HOURS CHILLING
MAKES 16
10 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
11/4 cups creamy peanut butter
Pinch of kosher salt
11/2 cups crisp rice cereal
(such as Rice Krispies)
13/4 cups powdered sugar
1 cup 60% cacao bittersweet chocolate
chips (from 1 [10-oz.] pkg.)
6 tsp. refined coconut oil, divided
1/2 cup white chocolate chips (from
1 [11-oz.] pkg.)
1/2 cup roasted, salted peanuts, roughly
chopped (optional)
1. Line an 8-inch square baking pan with
parchment paper, allowing 4 inches to
extend over sides. Whisk together melted
butter, peanut butter, and salt in a large
bowl. Carefully stir in cereal and pow-
dered sugar until well blended, taking care
not to crush cereal. Scatter clumps of
cereal mixture in prepared pan, and use
a sheet of parchment paper to smooth and
flatten mixture into an even layer.
2. Melt bittersweet chocolate chips
according to package directions, and stir
in 4 teaspoons of the oil until thoroughly
combined. Pour bittersweet chocolate
over cereal mixture, spreading chocolate
evenly over top. Melt white chocolate
according to package directions, and stir
in remaining 2 teaspoons of oil until
thoroughly combined. Spoon large dollops
of white chocolate on top of bittersweet
chocolate layer. Use a wooden pick to
make a swirl pattern in white and
bittersweet chocolates, blending slightly.
Sprinkle top with chopped peanuts,
if desired.
3. Refrigerate until set and sliceable, about
2 hours. Cut into 16 squares. Store cookies
in refrigerator in an airtight container until
ready to serve.
14 2 DECE M BE R / 2021
Cornmeal-Lime Cookies
The subtle vanilla notes of white choco-
late are the perfect complement to these
not-too-sweet, pleasantly crumbly
cookies made with yellow cornmeal and
a hint of lime. To make them holiday
worthy, we used a cookie stamp for
the tops—a quick way to dress up any
sturdy dough. You can find one online or
wherever baking tools are sold.
ACTIVE 40 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 15 MIN.,
PLUS 30 MIN. CHILLING AND 30 MIN. STANDING
MAKES 2 DOZEN
11/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more
for work surface and dusting
1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. fine yellow
cornmeal
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
10 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
1/4 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
1/2 tsp. grated lime zest (from 1 lime)
2 cups white chocolate chips (from
2 [11-oz.] pkg.)
1 tsp. canola oil
Gold edible luster dust and sparkling
sugar (optional)
1. Whisk together flour, cornmeal, and
salt in a small bowl. Beat butter, pow-
dered sugar, and granulated sugar with a
stand mixer fitted with a paddle attach-
ment on medium speed until light and
fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg and lime
zest, and beat until incorporated. Reduce
speed to low, and gradually add flour
mixture, one-third at a time, beating just
until incorporated after each addition.
2. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured
surface, and knead a few times until
dough is smooth and comes together.
Flatten into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap,
and refrigerate 30 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking
sheets with parchment paper. Scoop 1
rounded tablespoon of dough, and roll into
a ball. Place on prepared baking sheets,
dust a cookie stamp with flour, and use
stamp to press dough into a flat round.
Repeat with remaining dough, dusting
stamp with flour between each cookie
and spacing them 2 inches apart.
4. Place 1 baking sheet of cookies in
refrigerator until ready to bake. Bake
remaining baking sheet in preheated
oven until cookies are set and light
golden around edges, about 12 minutes,
rotating baking sheet from front to back
halfway through bake time. Transfer
cookies to a wire rack to cool completely,
about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, repeat
procedure with remaining baking sheet of
cookies. Reserve baking sheets; line each
with a new sheet of parchment paper.
5. Melt white chocolate chips according
to package directions. Stir in oil until
thoroughly combined. Spoon and spread
about 1 to 2 teaspoons white chocolate
mixture onto bottom of each cookie. Place
them, white chocolate side down, on
prepared baking sheets. If desired, transfer
remaining white chocolate mixture to a
piping bag fitted with a small round tip,
and pipe chocolate mixture into grooves
of cookies. Brush cookies with gold luster
dust or top with sparkling sugar, if desired.
Let stand until chocolate is set, about 30
minutes. Store in an airtight container at
room temperature.
Coconut-Pecan Truffles
Thanks to a delicious combination of
nuts, coconut, and chocolate, these
two-bite confections have a flavor similar
to a popular candy bar (that shall remain
nameless). For the tastiest results, seek
out the best-quality chocolate you can
find—at least 60% cacao—and use
unsweetened coconut that’s shredded
extra fine so it blends effortlessly into
the ganache.
ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 25 MIN.,
PLUS 5 HOURS CHILLING
MAKES 2 DOZEN
8 oz. high-quality bittersweet chocolate,
finely chopped
2/3 cup heavy whipping cream
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1/4 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
Pinch of kosher salt
6 Tbsp. unsweetened finely shredded
coconut
11/4 cups toasted pecans, finely chopped
1. Place chopped chocolate in a heatproof
bowl. Bring cream and butter to a simmer
in a small saucepan over medium, stirring
occasionally. (Do not let mixture boil.)
Pour hot cream mixture over chopped
chocolate, and let stand 1 minute; whisk
until smooth and shiny. Add vanilla,
cinnamon, salt, and coconut to chocolate
mixture, and stir to combine, scraping
down sides as necessary.
2. Tap bowl on work surface so chocolate
mixture has a smooth top surface; cover
and refrigerate until firm, about 4 hours.
3. Place chopped toasted pecans in a
small bowl. Scoop a heaping teaspoon
of chocolate mixture, and use hands to
quickly roll it into a ball. Gently roll in
pecans to coat; place on a baking sheet or
plate. Repeat with remaining chocolate
mixture and pecans. Refrigerate about 1
hour. Store truffles in an airtight container
in refrigerator.
Chocolate Gingerbread Wreaths
Rich dark chocolate cocoa powder and
a circular shape give this classic a new
twist. The royal icing used to decorate
the cookies starts with meringue powder,
which makes it a little less fussy than
recipes that call for real eggs. We
recommend applying the icing using a
piping bag with a writing tip, but if you
don’t have one, a plastic sandwich bag
with a tiny corner snipped off will do.
ACTIVE 45 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 15 MIN.,
PLUS 1 HOUR CHILLING, 1 HOUR COOLING,
AND 6 HOURS STANDING
MAKES 2 1/2 DOZEN
21/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more
for work surface
2/3 cup dark cocoa (such as Hershey’s
Special Dark)
11/2 tsp. ground ginger
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp. ground cloves
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
3/4 tsp. vanilla extract
1/3 cup unsulphured molasses
11/4 cups powdered sugar
2 Tbsp. meringue powder (such as Wilton)
Green food coloring gel
Pearl candy sprinkles
1. Whisk together flour, cocoa, ginger,
cinnamon, cloves, baking soda, baking
powder, and salt in a small bowl. Beat
butter and sugar in a stand mixer fitted
with a paddle attachment on medium
speed until light and fluffy, about 3
minutes. Add egg and vanilla, and beat
until incorporated. Beat in molasses.
Reduce speed to low, and gradually add
flour mixture, one-third at a time, beating
just until blended after each addition.
2. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured
surface, and knead a few times until
smooth. Roll dough into a ball, and flatten
into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and
chill 1 hour.
3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking
sheets with parchment paper. Roll dough
to 1/4-inch thickness on a lightly floured
surface. Cut dough into circles using a
2 1/2- to 3-inch round cookie cutter. Cut
middle out of each dough circle using
a 1-inch round cookie cutter. Arrange
cookies on prepared baking sheets,
spacing 2 inches apart. Gather and reroll
dough as needed.
4. Place 1 baking sheet of cookies in
refrigerator until ready to bake. Bake
remaining baking sheet in preheated
oven until cookies are set and lightly
browned on bottom, about 12 minutes,
rotating baking sheet from front to back
halfway through bake time. Let cool on
baking sheet on wire rack 5 minutes;
transfer cookies to wire rack to cool
completely, about 1 hour. Meanwhile,
repeat procedure with remaining baking
sheet of cookies.
5. Beat powdered sugar, meringue
powder, and 3 tablespoons water with a
stand mixer fitted with a whisk attach-
ment on medium-high speed until fluffy
and slightly stiff. Add more water, 1
teaspoon at a time, if needed, for desired
consistency. Stir in desired amount of
food coloring, and spoon into a piping
bag fitted with a writing tip.
6. Decorate 1 cookie at a time. Pipe icing
on each in a spiral pattern, and top with
desired amount of sprinkles. Repeat with
remaining cookies, icing, and sprinkles.
Let stand until icing is set, about 6 hours.
Store in an airtight container at room
temperature.
Cherry-Walnut Rugelach
As fun to make as they are to eat, these
cookies feature a cream cheese dough
and walnuts but otherwise break from
tradition. They’re filled with cherry jam
and chocolate, a scrumptious substitute
for the usual cinnamon sugar and apricot
preserves. If you can’t find cherry jam at
your local grocery store, you can also use
cherry preserves. You’ll just need to pluck
out the larger bits of fruit.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 20 MIN.,
PLUS 1 HOUR CHILLING
MAKES 2 DOZEN
3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
6 oz. cream cheese, softened
11/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for
work surface
1 Tbsp. granulated sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
2/3 cup cherry jam or cherry preserves with
larger pieces removed
1/2 cup chopped walnuts, finely chopped
24 milk chocolate rectangles (such as
Hershey’s, from 2 [2.6-oz.] milk
chocolate candy bars)
1 large egg
2 Tbsp. sparkling sugar
1. Beat butter and cream cheese in a
stand mixer fitted with a paddle attach-
ment on medium speed until creamy,
about 1 minute. Reduce speed to low, and
add flour, granulated sugar, and salt; beat
until blended, about 2 minutes. Turn
dough out onto a lightly floured surface,
and knead gently until smooth, 4 or 5
times. Divide dough into 2 equal portions.
Roll each into a ball, and press into a
disk. Wrap each disk in plastic wrap, and
chill 1 hour.
2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking
sheets with parchment paper. Roll 1
portion of dough into a 16-inch round
on a lightly floured surface. Spread half
of cherry jam evenly over dough, and
sprinkle evenly with half of chopped
walnuts. Use a pizza cutter to cut dough
into 12 even wedges.
3. Place a chocolate rectangle at the wide
end of 1 wedge, and carefully roll up; place
wedge, point side down, on prepared
baking sheet. Repeat with 11 more pieces
of chocolate and remaining wedges,
spacing cookies 2 inches apart on baking
sheet. Repeat procedure with remaining
dough, jam, walnuts, and chocolate pieces.
4. Whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon
water in a small bowl. Brush top of each
cookie with egg wash, and sprinkle with
sparkling sugar.
5. Place 1 baking sheet of cookies in
refrigerator until ready to bake. Bake
remaining baking sheet in preheated
SOUTHER N LI VING 143
oven until golden, about 20 to 25
minutes, rotating baking sheet from
front to back halfway through bake time.
Transfer cookies to a wire rack to cool
completely, about 30 minutes. Mean-
while, repeat procedure with remaining
baking sheet of cookies. Store cooled
cookies in an airtight container at room
temperature.
Chocolate-Almond Thumbprints
Filled with whipped chocolate ganache
and topped with a stemmed maraschino
cherry, these dramatically embellished
sweets would be a perfect finish to any
celebratory meal. The base can be made
ahead, but for the best results, we suggest
filling and decorating them no more than
a few hours before serving.
ACTIVE 40 MIN. - TOTAL 2 HOURS, 15 MIN.
MAKES ABOUT 3 DOZEN
21/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more
for work surface
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
3/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
softened
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
3/4 tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup whole raw almonds, finely chopped
12 oz. semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
3/4 cup heavy whipping cream
36 whole maraschino cherries with stems,
patted dry (from 2 [10-oz.] jars)
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking
sheets with parchment paper. Whisk
together flour, baking soda, and salt in
a small bowl. Beat butter and sugar in a
stand mixer fitted with a paddle attach-
ment on medium speed until light
and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg and
vanilla, and beat until incorporated.
Reduce speed to low, and gradually add
flour mixture, one-third at a time, beating
just until blended after each addition.
2. Place chopped almonds in a small
bowl. Turn dough out onto a lightly
floured surface, and knead a few times
until dough is smooth and comes
together. Scoop a level tablespoon of
dough, and roll it into a ball. Roll ball in
chopped almonds. Place on prepared
baking sheet. Repeat with remaining
dough, spacing balls 2 inches apart on
baking sheets.
14 4 DEC E MBE R / 2021
3. Use back of a teaspoon to make a deep
indentation in center of each dough ball.
4. Place 1 baking sheet of cookies in
refrigerator until ready to bake. Bake
remaining baking sheet in preheated oven
8 minutes. Remove from oven, and use
teaspoon to redo indentation in center of
each ball. Return to oven, and bake until
set and lightly golden on bottom, about 6
to 8 minutes. Cool 5 minutes on baking
sheet; transfer cookies to a wire rack to
cool completely, about 30 minutes. Repeat
procedure with remaining baking sheet
of cookies.
5. Place chopped chocolate in a heatproof
bowl. Heat cream in a small saucepan
over low until just beginning to bubble
around edges, about 2 to 3 minutes. (Do
not let cream boil, or it will be too hot
for chocolate.) Pour hot cream over
chocolate, and let stand 1 minute; whisk
until smooth. Refrigerate chocolate
mixture, stirring often so mixture cools
evenly, about 15 to 20 minutes.
6. Beat chocolate mixture with an electric
mixer on medium speed until light
and fluffy. Transfer ganache to a piping
bag fitted with a star tip. Pipe ganache
in indentation in center of each cookie.
Top each with a cherry. Refrigerate in an
airtight container until ready to serve.
Bourbon-Orange Biscotti
Homemade biscotti have a more pleasing
and delicate crunch than the cookies
you’ll find in your local coffee shop. In
addition to a satisfying, crumbly texture,
this version offers notes of vanilla and
citrus. A light drizzle of white chocolate
adds a sweet finishing touch, but if you
would like to make them extra decadent,
you can double the amount of chocolate
and dip them.
ACTIVE 35 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 30 MIN.,
PLUS 30 MIN. COOLING AND 30 MIN. STANDING
MAKES 2 DOZEN
21/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for
work surface
2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) bourbon
3/4 tsp. grated orange zest (from 1 orange)
1/2 cup whole raw almonds, roughly chopped
6 Tbsp. white chocolate chips (from
1 [11-oz.] pkg.)
1 tsp. canola oil
1. Preheat oven to 350°F, and line a baking
sheet with parchment paper. Whisk
together flour, baking powder, and salt in
a small bowl.
2. Beat softened butter and sugar in a
stand mixer fitted with a paddle attach-
ment on medium speed until light and
fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a
time, beating until blended after each
addition. Add vanilla, bourbon, and grated
orange zest, and continue beating until
incorporated. (Mixture may separate
slightly, which is okay.)
3. Reduce speed to medium-low, and
gradually add flour mixture, one-third at
a time. Beat until well blended. Fold in
chopped almonds using a rubber spatula.
With floured hands, scoop dough onto a
lightly floured surface. (Dough will be
very sticky.)
4. Roll dough into a 15-inch-long log.
Carefully transfer log to prepared baking
sheet, and gently press top to shape log
into a 1/2-inch-thick rectangle (about 4
inches wide).
5. Bake in preheated oven until golden
and puffy, about 25 to 30 minutes,
rotating baking sheet from front to back
halfway through bake time. Transfer
baked rectangle to a wire rack, and let
cool 15 minutes. Reserve parchment
paper-lined baking sheet.
6. With a sharp serrated knife, cut
rectangle crosswise into 3/4-inch-thick
slices. Arrange cookies, standing upright
(not on cut sides), on reserved baking
sheet, and return to oven. Bake at 350°F
until lightly dried, deep golden, and crisp
on the outside, about 15 to 20 minutes.
Transfer cookies to a wire rack, and cool
completely, about 30 minutes. Cover
baking sheet with a new sheet of
parchment paper.
7. Arrange biscotti, cut side up, on prepared
baking sheet. Melt white chocolate chips
according to package directions, and stir
in oil until thoroughly combined. Drizzle
melted white chocolate mixture over
biscotti. Let stand until chocolate sets,
about 30 minutes. Store in an airtight
container at room temperature.
YOUR KIDS WANT
NANA’S COOKIES.
YOU’RE NOT NANA.

IT’S GONNA ª

BE GREAT
Make Nana proud and everyone
else happy. Scan the code for this
Holiday Painted Cookies recipe.
 Pastor Agnes Lover
of
MONTGOMERY’S SAINT
PAUL AFRICAN METHODIST
EPISCOPAL CHURCH

14 6 DECE M BE R / 2021
 The
Meaning
of
BY
SAFIYA CHARLES

Watch
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
ROBBIE CAPONETTO

NightA LATE-NIGHT TRADITION IN MANY AFRICAN AMERICAN

CHURCHES CELEBRATES NEW YEAR’S EVE—AND THE END OF SLAVERY—
WITH PRAISE, FELLOWSHIP, AND HOPE FOR THE FUTURE

SOUTHER N LI VING 147

P ASTOR Agnes Lover
remembers the col-
ors and the motions
of scarves placed in
the pews of Atlanta’s
Turner Chapel AME
Church, the flashes of
orange, red, and gold
that sashayed through the air as congre-
gants set them in motion.
She recalls a vibrancy in the Watch
Night services she experienced early in
her ministry, the inky darkness of the
night as cars turned their headlights on
the church’s parking lot, the pulsing move-
ment as the walls vibrated with erupted
tension and ebullient praise. Women and
men proclaimed, sang, and shouted cap-
tivating and heart-spun testimonies—
reflections of joy, adversity, and loss—as
the clock approached midnight on the eve
of the New Year.
“It was electric,” says Lover, who now
leads Saint Paul African Methodist Epis-
copal Church in Montgomery, Alabama.
“The Spirit was ever so present.”
The origins of the celebration date back
to December 31, 1862, when free and for-
merly enslaved African Americans across Pastor Richard Williams
Boston and other cities throughout the of
North gathered at churches and homes MONTGOMERY’S
in solidarity with those held in bondage in METROPOLITAN UNITED
METHODIST CHURCH
the South as they awaited news of free-
dom. President Abraham Lincoln would
sign the Emancipation Proclamation into
effect on January 1, 1863, marking the
beginning of the end of more than two
centuries of American slavery.
As time has moved further away from the Civil War, the sweet respite of freedom as they worshipped together in praise
events that took place on Freedom’s Eve 1862 have lost their and song. When those who had endured slavery passed on,
former centrality to this annual African American Christian their children carried their stories.
tradition in many churches. As time went by, many churches began to incorporate a
In the years immediately following emancipation, formerly call-and-response prayer to conclude the service. When the
enslaved African Americans gathered at churches on the eve clock approached the midnight hour, congregants implored
of the New Year, evoking the cruel trials of slavery and the their minister to mark the time, repeating the call: “Watchman,

14 8 DEC E MBE R / 2021

Richard Bailey
Director of the
EMANCIPATION
ASSOCIATION OF
MONTGOMERY

SOUTHERN LIV I NG 149

watchman, please tell me the hour?” To
which the minister responded: “It’s two
minutes to midnight; it’s one minute before
the New Year...” Then the clock struck 12,
and the minister finally proclaimed: “It is
now midnight—freedom has come.”
“The meaning is still relevant, but it has
evolved,” Lover says. “Now, more or less,
people are anticipating the New Year—out
with the old, in with the new—and reflect-
ing on the past year. As a pastor, I try to
stress how important our faith is to sus-
tain us, because that’s what I think Watch
Night really means when I consider its
heritage as it relates to the African Amer-
ican community.”
Lover, who was raised in Alabama,
doesn’t recall understanding its signifi-
cance until high school, when she received
an award from a local association tasked
with preserving the history of emancipa-
tion in Montgomery, a city covered with
historical emblems.
Now, the nighttime church celebrations
that once yawned past midnight often
begin at 7 p.m. and end by 10 p.m. Some
churches have combined services, while
others don’t observe Watch Night at all.
Yet in the past two years of ongoing polit-
ical turmoil, disease, and death that have
had a marked effect on African American
communities across the country, the sig-
nificance found in the transformative origins
of Freedom’s Eve—and the testimonial
tradition of contemporary church services Wanda Battle
praising God for carrying one through the of
trials and tribulations—speak to an urgent MONTGOMERY’S UNION
need to reconnect the service’s past with CHAPEL AFRICAN METHODIST
EPISCOPAL ZION CHURCH
the present.
“I strongly feel that if you’re not aware
of your history, certain things are doomed
to repeat themselves,” says Lover. “Watch
Night is still vitally important for us to
come together as a community to watch,
to pray, and to really engage in a spiritual way against every- and remain twice as likely to die from the illness, according
thing that polarizes our nation.” to the CDC. In July, the unemployment rate for African Amer-
COVID-19’s outsize impact on African Americans since the icans remained about double that of their White counterparts,
pandemic began in early 2020 is still being felt. A dispropor- according to a Congressional Research Service report released
tionate number of the more than 700,000 lives lost in the U.S. the following month. And Census Bureau data from early
to the virus are African American men and women, who are September revealed that about 15% of Black adults reported
hospitalized at almost three times the rate of White Americans that their households had lacked an adequate food supply

1 5 0 D EC E MBE R / 202 1
within the seven days that preceded the survey. converted the sanctuary into a makeshift warehouse for
Maybe Black Americans are no longer fighting to free donated items. He partnered with local health organizations
themselves from the chains of slavery, but real threats to their and designated Metropolitan as a COVID testing site; later it
rights as full democratic citizens abound. The 2020 killings of became a place where community members could get vacci-
George Floyd, Breonna Taylor, Ahmaud Arbery, and other Black nated. The congregation created a burial program to assist
victims and the surge of protests that followed cast racial justice people who had lost loved ones to community violence and
again in the spotlight with a unified fervor that many Americans couldn’t afford the cost of funeral services. For Williams and his
had never before witnessed. flock, the church stepped into its purpose.
In this light, Freedom’s Eve serves as a reminder of how Nationwide, church membership has steadily declined
tenuous freedom—the power to speak or act without restraint, across denominations since the turn of the 21st century. In
the absence of oppression, the state of 2020, a Gallup poll showed, for the first
not being imprisoned—remains for time in 80 years, that less than half
African Americans and other margin- (47%) of all Americans belonged to a
alized groups. “The struggle continues,” church, synagogue, or mosque—down
says historian Richard Bailey, director “African from 70% in 1999.
of the Emancipation Association of Americans The church’s role in society writ
Montgomery. “African Americans and
all Americans have to realize there’s
and all large has clearly changed. Although
a greater percentage of Black Ameri-
nothing free about freedom. Whatever Americans cans reported that they still belonged
liberties that people enjoy today, those have to to a church congregation (59%) in
can be taken away.” realize there’s 2020, it represented a 19% drop in
Throughout history, few institutions
have played a greater role in address-
nothing free attendance since the period between
1998 and 2000.
ing the concerns, priorities, and politics about For some, these statistics reinforce
of African Americans than the Black freedom.” the need to recenter the Black church’s
church. Christianity, as influenced by —RICHARD BAILEY function as a site of aid, power building,
formerly enslaved worshippers, and preservation of cultural heritage.
became a refuge from intolerance, Wanda Battle, who attends Union
hatred, and the immorality of slavery Chapel African Methodist Episcopal
and injustice. The church was a site where culture was created, Zion Church in Madison Park—a historically Black community
nourished, and protected. Bailey believes that, as marginalized founded in 1880 by formerly enslaved people and annexed by
people whose customs and traditions are constantly under Montgomery in 1980—believes this is imperative.
threat, Black church leadership must always be vigilant in “The church in our Black community has always been a
ensuring that the communities they foster recognize “from nucleus for social and political activity, and I believe pastors
whence they came.” still have that place if they will take it,” she says.
When Richard Williams, who pastors Metropolitan United Battle was raised in Montgomery, but her parents moved
Methodist Church in Montgomery, considered the weight of the family to Atlanta following the assassination of Rev. Martin
this mission amid the height of the pandemic in the spring Luther King Jr. in 1968. She remembers attending December’s
of 2020, his church pews empty of the men and women he late-night service at Shaw Temple AME Zion Church as a
had guided each Sunday for the past two years, he thought of teenager. After it was over, church members stayed together
one word: purpose. and ate breakfast until well past 1 a.m.
“Why are we here, and what is this institution’s value to our Although she doesn’t recall the tradition’s connection to
neighbors?” thought Williams. “We find ourselves in a space emancipation being emphasized in those services, she believes
where many people are saying the church is needed. If that’s its message is particularly vital. She has a strong desire to adopt
the case, what changes are we going to make, and how are we Freedom’s Eve at Union Chapel, given the community’s close
going to lean into our mission?” As the news reports they saw ties to the vestiges of slavery.
were bolstered by personal accounts from church members “This is the original acknowledgment of our freedom,” says
detailing the disastrous impact of COVID-19 on people through- Battle. “It’s a tribute to our ancestors who struggled and over-
out their community and the country, he and his congregation came so many obstacles and, at the same time, have inspired
sprung into action. us to continue to persevere.... Every way in which we can keep
Williams scaled up the church’s food bank program and telling this story, we must.”

SOUTHER N LI VING 151

Broccoli?
What
broccoli?

© 2020 Kraft Foods

 SOUTHERN COOKING
AT I T S B E S T
The Kitchen
MIX AND MATCH
Any combination
of these hot and
cold bites will work.
R ECIP ES: MA RIA N NE W ILLIA MS ; FOO D STYLIN G: E MILY NA BO RS HA L L; P ROP ST YL I NG: AU D REY DAVIS

PA RT Y TI ME

Pass the
Cheese, Please
Skip the usual grazing board, and go all
out with these irresistible appetizers

photographs by VICTOR PROTASIO SOU THERN L IVING 153

 Spicy Cheese
Twists
recipe, page
157

HELP YOURSELF
Create a buffet line
of these appetizers
for a laid-back and
fun party.

1 5 4 DEC EM B ER / 2021
 Baked
Brie Bites
recipe,
page 158

Hot Cheesy
Crab Dip
recipe, page
158
Pistachio-
Cheddar
Shortbread
recipe,
page 157

Creamy
Spinach-Ricotta
Crostini
recipe, page 157

Bacon-
Cheese
Gougères
recipe,
page 157

Creamy Spinach-Ricotta Crostini
This bright green ricotta spread is a tasty
match for prosciutto. Or pair with pita
chips for an easy take on spinach dip.
ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 15 MIN.
SERVES 8
5 oz. baby spinach
1/2 cup roughly chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup roughly chopped fresh chives
1 medium garlic clove, chopped
2/3 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese
5 oz. goat cheese, softened
11/2 oz. pecorino Romano, finely shredded
(about 1/2 cup)
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon),
plus zest for garnish
1 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
3 Tbsp. olive oil
16 (1/2-inch-thick) baguette slices, toasted
3 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto, torn
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over
medium-high. Add spinach; cook, stirring
occasionally, until bright green and wilted,
about 45 seconds. Transfer to a large
bowl of ice water to cool 3 minutes. Drain.
Squeeze spinach between paper towels
to remove as much moisture as possible.
2. Combine spinach, parsley, chives, and
garlic in a food processor. Pulse until
finely chopped, about 12 times. Add
ricotta, goat cheese, pecorino Romano,
lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Process
until smooth, about 25 seconds, stopping
to scrape down sides of bowl as needed.
Add olive oil, and process until incorpo-
rated, 5 to 10 seconds. Spinach-ricotta
mixture can be chilled in an airtight
container for up to 2 days.
3. Spread about 2 tablespoons spinach-
ricotta mixture over each baguette slice.
Top with prosciutto; garnish with zest.
Pistachio-Cheddar Shortbread
If you can make slice-and-bake cookies,
you can whip up these savory, buttery
homemade crackers. Serve them as is, or
top with cream cheese and pepper jelly.
ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR,
PLUS 1 HOUR CHILLING
SERVES 12
11/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup roasted, salted shelled pistachios
2 tsp. granulated sugar
PA R T Y T I M E
11/2 tsp. kosher salt
3/4 tsp. dry mustard
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/2 cup unsalted butter, chilled and
cut into 1/2-inch cubes
7 oz. aged Irish white Cheddar cheese
(such as Kerrygold Aged Cheddar),
shredded (about 13/4 cups)
1 oz. Parmesan cheese, shredded
(about 1/3 cup)
1/4 cup ice water
Cream cheese and hot pepper jelly,
for serving
1. Combine flour, pistachios, sugar, salt,
dry mustard, and black pepper in a food
processor. Pulse until pistachios are finely
chopped, 15 to 20 times. Add butter, and
pulse until butter is the size of peas, about
15 times. Add Cheddar and Parmesan;
pulse until combined, about 5 times. Add
ice water, and pulse until mixture sticks
together when pinched with fingers, about
5 times. Transfer mixture to a clean work
surface, and knead gently to bring together.
Divide mixture in half (about 11 ounces
each), and roll and shape each piece into a
6-inch log (about 1 3/4-inch diameter). Wrap
each log in plastic wrap, and refrigerate
until firm, at least 1 hour or up to 1 day.
2. Place oven racks in upper and bottom
thirds of oven. Preheat oven to 375°F. Line
two baking sheets with parchment paper.
Remove shortbread logs from refrigerator;
slice into 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Arrange
rounds on prepared baking sheets, spacing
at least 1/2 inch apart. Bake until golden
brown and crispy, 20 to 25 minutes,
rotating pans and switching racks halfway
through. Remove from oven; carefully
transfer crackers to wire racks to cool
completely, about 20 minutes. Top with
cream cheese and hot pepper jelly.
Bacon-Cheese Gougères
Bacon and two types of cheese make this
party classic even more delicious. While
they’re best served fresh, they can be
baked ahead, frozen, and reheated in
the oven at 350°F.
ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 30 MIN.
SERVES 12
2 oz. Gruyère cheese, shredded (about
1/2 cup), divided
2 oz. aged white Cheddar cheese,
shredded (about 1/2 cup), divided
1/2 cup half-and-half
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg
4 large eggs
3 slices bacon, cooked and finely
chopped (about 1/4 cup)
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Line two baking
sheets with parchment paper, and set
aside. Toss together Gruyère and Cheddar
in a small bowl, and set aside. Heat half-
and-half, 1/2 cup water, and butter in a small
saucepan over medium. Bring to a boil,
stirring occasionally. Immediately add
flour, salt, and nutmeg, and cook, stirring
constantly with a wooden spoon, until
mixture forms a ball and bottom of pan
has developed a thin film, about 2 minutes.
Remove from heat, and transfer dough
to a stand mixer fitted with a paddle
attachment. Beat on medium-high for 30
seconds to release steam and cool slightly.
Decrease speed to medium. With mixer
running, add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well
after each addition. Continue beating on
medium until batter is stiff and glossy,
about 5 minutes. Reduce speed to
medium-low, and add bacon and 3
ounces of cheese mixture.
2. Transfer dough mixture to a large
piping bag fitted with a 1/2-inch pastry tip.
Pipe 1 1/2-inch mounds of dough (about
2 tablespoons) onto prepared baking
sheets, spacing at least 1 inch apart. Tap
tops of dough with a lightly moistened
finger to flatten slightly. (Alternatively,
use a 1 3/4-inch ice-cream scoop to scoop
dough onto baking sheet.) Sprinkle dough
with remaining cheese mixture (about
1/2 teaspoon each).
3. Bake 1 pan in preheated oven 10
minutes. Reduce oven temperature to
375°F, and continue baking until golden
brown, risen, and puffed, 15 to 18 minutes.
Cool gougères on baking sheet for at least
10 minutes. Increase oven temperature to
425°F, and repeat baking procedure with
remaining pan of dough. Serve gougères
while still warm.
Spicy Cheese Twists
Take that forgotten box of puff pastry
stashed in the back of the freezer (along
with a few pantry staples), and turn it into
this impressive appetizer. Or package in
a cookie tin as an edible gift.
SOU THERN L IVING 157

ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 55 MIN.
SERVES 12
6 oz. aged Gouda cheese, grated in a
food processor (about 1 cup)
1 Tbsp. thyme leaves
1/2 (17.3-oz.) pkg. frozen puff pastry
sheets, thawed
All-purpose flour, for work
surface
1 large egg, beaten
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Line 2 baking
sheets with parchment paper, and set
aside. Mix together Gouda and thyme
in a small bowl; set aside.
2. Roll 1 puff pastry sheet into a 14-inch
square on a lightly floured work surface.
Thoroughly prick all over with a fork.
Whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon water
in a small bowl. Brush pastry lightly with
egg mixture. Sprinkle evenly with salt,
garlic powder, and cayenne pepper. Cut
pastry in half lengthwise to form 2 (14- x
7-inch) rectangles. Spread about 3/4 cup of
the Gouda mixture evenly over one of the
rectangles, and press with palms of hands
to bind cheese to pastry. Place remaining
pastry sheet, egg wash side up, directly
onto pastry sheet with cheese. Sprinkle
remaining 1/3 cup Gouda mixture evenly
over top pastry, pressing with palms
of hands to bind cheese to pastry.
(Alternatively, gently roll a rolling pin
over both sheets to bind cheese.) Cut
pastry stack lengthwise into 2 (14- x
3 1/2-inch) rectangles. Cut each rectangle
into 12 (about 3 1/2- x 1-inch) strips.
3. Working with 1 strip at a time, twist
the ends in opposite directions so that
each end is cheese side up, resembling a
bow tie. Arrange bow ties on prepared
baking sheets, at least 1/2 inch apart. Press
ends down gently to adhere to parch-
ment. Pinch middle of each strip with
fingers to create center of bow tie. Bake
in preheated oven, 1 baking sheet at a
time, until crispy and golden brown,
about 12 to 16 minutes. Cool on baking
sheet at least 5 minutes. Serve warm or
at room temperature.
Baked Brie Bites
These pretty appetizers have it all: gooey
cheese, crunchy nuts, flaky pastry, and a
1 5 8 DEC E M BE R / 2021
PA R T Y T I M E
hit of tangy sweetness from cranberries.
Pair with a dry sparkling wine for the
ultimate bite.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 15 MIN.
SERVES 12
11/2 tsp. grated orange zest, plus 2 Tbsp.
fresh juice (from 1 medium orange),
divided
4 Tbsp. honey
1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries
2 tsp. chopped fresh sage, plus small
leaves for garnish
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1 (17.3-oz.) pkg. frozen puff pastry sheets,
thawed
All-purpose flour, for work surface
2 (8-oz.) Brie rounds
1/4 cup chopped pecans, toasted
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Bring orange
juice, 1 tablespoon water, and honey to a
boil in a medium saucepan over medium-
high, stirring occasionally. Add cranber-
ries, and reduce heat to medium-low.
Simmer, stirring occasionally, until
cranberries have burst and mixture has
thickened slightly and reduced to about
3/4 cup, about 10 minutes. Remove from
heat, and stir in orange zest, chopped
sage, and salt. Cool to room temperature,
about 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, spray 2 (12-cup) mini muffin
pans with cooking spray. Place puff pastry
sheets on a lightly floured surface, and roll
into 2 (12- x 9-inch) rectangles. Generously
prick each rectangle with a fork. Cut each
dough rectangle into 12 (3-inch) squares.
Press squares into muffin pan cavities,
crimping edges of dough together as
needed to fit, leaving a 1/2-inch overhang.
Chill 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, trim rind edges from Brie
rounds (there is no need to trim rind from
top and bottom of rounds). Discard rind
edges. Cut each round into 12 (about
1/2-ounce, 3/4-inch-wide) wedges.
4. Place a Brie wedge in each pastry
cup, folding in half if needed for a better
fit. Bake in preheated oven until pastry
has puffed and is golden brown and
Brie has melted, 24 to 30 minutes.
Remove pans from oven, and cool
slightly on wire racks, about 5 minutes.
Remove Brie bites from pans, and top
each with about 1 teaspoon cranberry
sauce, 1/2 teaspoon pecans, and sage
leaves. Reserve remaining cranberry
sauce for another use. Serve immediately,
or let cool to room temperature, about
20 minutes.
Hot Cheesy Crab Dip
Jumbo lump crabmeat makes this dip
absolutely decadent—and a bit pricey—
but you can keep costs down with crab
claw meat. Either way, make sure the
crab is fresh, not canned.
ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 50 MIN.
SERVES 12
4 medium scallions (about 31/4 oz. total)
8 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature
3/4 cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup sour cream
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. hot sauce (such as Tabasco)
1 tsp. sherry vinegar
1/2 tsp. celery salt
5 oz. extra-sharp Cheddar cheese,
shredded (about 11/4 cups), divided
5 oz. creamy Havarti cheese, shredded
(about 11/4 cups), divided
1 lb. fresh jumbo lump crabmeat, drained
and picked over
4 medium-size Belgian endive heads
(about 12 oz. total), leaves separated
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Thinly slice
scallions, separating dark green parts
from white and light green parts; set aside.
2. Beat cream cheese, mayonnaise, sour
cream, salt, Worcestershire sauce, hot
sauce, vinegar, and celery salt in the
bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle
attachment on medium speed until
creamy and smooth, 30 seconds to
1 minute, stopping to scrape down sides
of bowl as needed. Add 1 cup each of
the Cheddar and Havarti, and beat on
medium-low speed until incorporated,
about 10 seconds. Remove bowl from
stand mixer, and fold in crabmeat and
white and light green parts of scallions.
3. Transfer crab mixture to a 2-quart
baking dish, and top with remaining
1/4 cup each Cheddar and Havarti. Bake
in preheated oven until edges are bubbly
and cheese is melted, about 20 minutes.
Turn oven to broil, and continue baking
until cheese is browned, 3 to 5 minutes.
Remove from oven, and set aside to
cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Top with
reserved dark green parts of scallions,
and serve with endive leaves.
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 THE KITCHEN

T HE W HI T E CA KE

Oh, Christmas Tree!

Bedecked with a pile of presents and topped
with a shiny star, this year’s cake captures the
sweetness and sparkle of the season
R ECIP ES: AN N A THEOKTISTO A ND SARAH E PPE RSO N LOVE LESS; FOOD ST YLI N G : TO R IE COX ; P ROP STYL I NG : AUDR EY DAVIS

Eggnog Layer Cake with

Bourbon-Vanilla Bean
Buttercream Frosting
recipe, page 162

produced by LISA CERICOLA photographs by GREG DUPREE SOU THERN L IVING 161
 THE WHITE CAKE

Eggnog Layer Cake with Bourbon-

Vanilla Bean Buttercream Frosting
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 2 HOURS, 10 MIN. THE FROSTING TREE IN FOUR STEPS
SERVES 12

CAKE LAYERS
Baking spray with flour
13/4 cups granulated sugar
1 cup butter, softened
4 large eggs
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
2 cups refrigerated eggnog,
divided
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) bourbon
1 tsp. vanilla extract
FROSTING
1 cup butter, softened
1 (32-oz.) pkg. powdered sugar
3/4 cup heavy whipping cream 1. 2.
1 vanilla bean pod, split Using a wooden pick or a small With an offset spatula, scoop
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) bourbon paring knife, draw an outline of teaspoonfuls of reserved 1/2 cup
FOR DECORATING a Christmas tree on one side frosting, and place on cake, 1 at
Assorted gold and white candy of the assembled cake. a time, starting at the bottom of
sprinkles, nonpareil candy sprinkles, the tree outline. Use a swooping
and sparkling sugar
motion with spatula to create a
Shortbread Present and Star Cookies
brushstroke-like branch with each
(recipe, page 165)
dollop of frosting, moving from the
1. Prepare the Cake Layers: Preheat oven inside of the tree to the outside.
to 350°F. Coat 4 (6-inch) round cake pans
with baking spray. Line each pan bottom
with a circle of parchment paper; coat
parchment with baking spray.
2. Beat sugar and butter with a stand
mixer fitted with a paddle attachment on
medium speed until mixture is light and
fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add eggs 1 at a
time, beating until combined.
3. Stir together flour, baking powder,
salt, and nutmeg in a separate bowl. Add
flour mixture to sugar-butter mixture
alternately with 1 cup of the eggnog in
3 additions, beginning and ending with
flour mixture. Beat on low speed until
blended after each addition, about 1
minute total. Beat in bourbon and vanilla
extract until smooth. Divide batter evenly
among prepared pans (1 2/3 cups per pan). 3. 4.
4. Bake on center rack in preheated oven Continue scooping and swooping Decorate frosting tree as desired
until a wooden pick inserted in center with spatula, working from bottom with assorted candy sprinkles,
of each layer comes out clean, 25 to 28 to top of tree and inside to outside, nonpareils, and sparkling sugar.
minutes. Cool in pans 15 minutes. Run an overlapping as needed, until tree Place 1 Shortbread Star Cookie
offset spatula around edges of each layer; is complete. at the top of the tree.
remove from pans, and cool completely
on a wire rack, about 45 minutes. Using

16 2 D ECE M BE R / 2021
EXTRA SPIRIT
A bit of bourbon
complements the
eggnog in this
cake; you can omit
it if you prefer.

a long serrated knife, trim rounded tops
from each layer (they should be about 1 1/4
inches tall after trimming). Drizzle evenly
with remaining 1 cup eggnog (1/4 cup per
layer). Let stand 15 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, prepare the Frosting: Beat
butter with an electric mixer on medium
speed until creamy, about 2 minutes.
Reduce mixer speed to low. Gradually
beat in powdered sugar alternately with
cream, beating until blended after each
addition, about 2 minutes total. Scrape
seeds from split vanilla bean pod using
dull edge of a paring knife; add scraped
vanilla seeds and bourbon to butter
mixture (discard scraped vanilla bean
pod). Beat on high speed until smooth
and fluffy, about 2 minutes.
6. Place 1 Cake Layer, cut side up, on a
platter; spread 2/3 cup Frosting over top.
Top with a second layer, cut side up,
and another 2/3 cup Frosting. Top with a
third layer, cut side up, 2/3 cup Frosting,
and then remaining layer, cut side
HOW TO DECORATE THE COOKIES
1.
Spoon royal icing colors into separate
piping bags fitted with small round
tips (such as Wilton #2 or #3), or cut a
small corner from bottom of each bag.
Pipe an outline of icing onto all cookies,
and fill in outlines with icing.
16 4 DEC E MBE R / 202 1
THE WHITE CAKE
down. Frost top and sides of cake with 2 1/2
cups Frosting, reserving remaining 1/2 cup
Frosting for tree decoration.
7. With a small paring knife or a wooden
pick, draw an outline of a Christmas tree
on side of assembled cake. Using an
offset spatula, scoop teaspoonfuls of
reserved 1/2 cup Frosting, and place on
cake, 1 at a time, starting at the bottom
of the tree outline. With a spatula, use a
swooping motion to create a brushstroke-
like branch with each dollop of Frosting,
moving from the inside of the tree to the
outside. Continue scooping and swooping
with spatula, working from bottom to top
of tree and from inside to outside, over-
lapping as needed, until tree is complete.
Decorate tree as desired with assorted
candy sprinkles, nonpareils, and
sparkling sugar.
8. Place 1 Shortbread Star Cookie at
the top of the tree, and place several
Shortbread Present Cookies around
the base of the cake.
2.
Immediately sprinkle stars with gold
or white sanding sugar. Let squares
and rectangles stand until surfaces
are set, about 30 minutes.
One Cake,
Two Ways
The layers are baked in 6-inch
pans for a taller dessert to show
off the frosting tree. Standard
8-inch pans will also work
with these directions
Divide batter among 3 (8-inch)
round cake pans coated with
baking spray and lined with
parchment paper. Bake as directed
until a toothpick inserted in center
comes out clean, 22 to 25 minutes.
Poke hot cakes with a fork; drizzle
evenly with remaining 1 cup eggnog
(1/3 cup per layer). Cool in pans 20
minutes. Remove from pans, and
place, soaked side up, on a wire
rack. Let cool completely, about
1 hour. Spread Frosting between
layers (1 cup per layer) and on top
and sides of cake, reserving 1/2 cup
Frosting for tree decoration.
3.
Pipe remaining icing as desired to
decorate squares and rectangles to look
like presents. Let all cookies stand until
completely set, about 2 hours.
 THE WHITE CAKE

Shortbread Present and Star Cookies

ACTIVE 1 HOUR - TOTAL 2 HOURS,
PLUS 2 HOURS STANDING
MAKES ABOUT 4 1⁄2 DOZEN PRESENT
COOKIES AND 2 DOZEN STAR COOKIES

COOKIES
3/4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
3/4 cup powdered sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 large egg yolk
13/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more
for work surface
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
ROYAL ICING
1 lb. powdered sugar
7 Tbsp. warm water
3 Tbsp. meringue powder (such as Wilton)
Gold food coloring gel (optional)
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
Gold and white sanding sugar or
sparkling sugar

1. Prepare the Cookies: Preheat oven

to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with
parchment paper; set aside. Beat butter,
powdered sugar, and vanilla with a stand
mixer fitted with a paddle attachment
on medium speed until smooth, about 1
minute. Add egg yolk, and beat just until
combined, about 10 seconds, stopping to
scrape down sides of bowl as needed.
2. Whisk together flour and salt in a
medium bowl until well combined.
Gradually add flour mixture to butter
mixture, beating on low speed until
combined and dough comes together,
about 3 minutes.
3. Place dough on a lightly floured work
surface; roll into a 1/4-inch-thick rectan-
gle. Cut dough into 1- to 1 1/2-inch squares
and rectangles and 3/4-inch stars. Arrange
cutouts 1 inch apart on prepared baking
sheets. Gather and reroll dough once.
4. Bake in 2 batches on middle rack
in preheated oven until edges start to
darken slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool
on baking sheets 5 minutes. Transfer
to a wire rack; cool completely, about about 1 minute. Transfer 1/2 cup to a bowl, Wilton #2 or #3), or cut a small corner
20 minutes. and stir in gold food coloring to tint it light from bottom of each bag. Pipe an outline
5. Prepare the Royal Icing: Beat powdered gold. Repeat with an additional 1/2 cup icing of icing onto all Cookies, and fill in outlines
sugar, 7 tablespoons warm water, and and gold food coloring in a separate bowl with icing. Immediately sprinkle stars with
meringue powder with a stand mixer fitted to make a darker shade of gold. Leave gold or white sanding sugar. Let squares
with a whisk attachment on medium remaining icing white. Cover bowls with and rectangles stand until surfaces are set,
speed until fully combined and smooth, 1 plastic wrap; set aside at room tempera- about 30 minutes. Pipe remaining icing as
minute, stopping to scrape down sides of ture until ready to use. desired to decorate squares and rectan-
bowl as needed. Increase mixer speed to 6. Spoon icing colors into separate piping gles to look like presents. Let all Cookies
high; beat until icing is no longer glossy, bags fitted with small round tips (such as stand until completely set, about 2 hours.

SOU THERN L IVING 165

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spatula to perfect the edges, adding
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2-tablespoon dollop of frosting on top
of cake. Assemble the fondant loops into
a bow, pressing ends into the dollop and
adding frosting as needed to secure.
Place the “gift tag” alongside the bow.
Make Ahead and Store:
The frosted cake can be stored in the
refrigerator for up to 2 days before
decorating. The fondant bow can be
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2 cups Crisco® All-Vegetable
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1 tsp. fine salt
1 tsp. Spice Islands® Pure
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2 lb. powdered sugar
3 to 4 Tbsp. whole milk, as needed
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Baking
at Home
 Williams
Family Wassail

HOLIDAY SPIRITS
This warm, spiced
cocktail can be
served with or
without vodka.
 THE KITCHEN

FA M I LY R EC I P ES

A Little Taste of Home

Three chefs from across the South share
favorite dishes that are full of special meaning
PRODUCED BY BRIGID RANSOME WASHINGTON
R ECIP ES: C HRIS W ILLIA MS, PAO LA VE LEZ , A ND CY N THIA WON G ; FO OD STYL IN G : E MI LY NA BO RS HAL L ; P ROP STYL I NG : AUDR EY DAVIS ; PO RTRAI T: JE NN DUNCAN

FELL IN LOVE with cooking great-grandmother’s favorites. We

I
at a very young age and served the drink to the traveling circus
devoured cookbooks the of friends and family who filled our home
way other people ate Tic Tacs. every December. And now at Lucille’s,
When I was still a teenager, the wassail is offered with the same Williams Family Wassail
I realized that the best way spirit of joy behind it. Served warm in a ACTIVE 10 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR
SERVES 6
to understand a culture was coupe glass, it’s garnished with a dehy-
through its food. I traveled throughout drated lemon slice and a cinnamon stick. 4 cups unfiltered apple cider
Europe for years, cooking and learning Our version shows a little of my 11⁄2 cups fresh-squeezed
orange juice (from 3 large
and cooking some more. When I came own touch, too, by incorporating a oranges)
back Stateside, I knew my love of food, couple of unexpected ingredients that 1⁄2 cup pineapple juice
culture, and people was always going truly make it sing: nutmeg and vodka. 21⁄2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
to be my bread and butter. But it wasn’t The nutmeg gives the drink a palpable (from 1⁄2 lemon)
until I opened up my first restaurant— but not overpowering zing of spice. We 2 Tbsp. honey

named after my great-grandmother use Highway Vodka, a hemp-based 1 Tbsp. brown sugar
1⁄4 tsp. ground ginger
Lucille—that I fully embraced product of my brother’s
1⁄4 tsp. ground nutmeg
just how much meaning my Houston distillery. The spirit
CHRIS WILLIAMS 2 (3-inch) cinnamon sticks,
family recipes carried for me, HOUSTON, TX
is incredibly clean, and it plus more for garnish
and by extension, for our Chef/owner of imparts a velvety viscosity 3⁄4 cup vodka (such as
guests too. Lucille’s and to any cocktail. Clearly, we Highway)
Wassail was a Christmas Late August, like to keep things in the Lemon slices, for garnish
@lucilleshouston
tradition when I was growing family, especially around 1. Bring apple cider, orange
up, and it was one of my Christmastime. juice, pineapple juice, and
lemon juice to a simmer in
a saucepan or stockpot over
medium.
2. Stir in honey, brown sugar,
ginger, nutmeg, and cinnamon
sticks; reduce heat to medium-
low, and simmer 35 to 45
minutes. Stir in vodka; garnish
with cinnamon sticks and
lemon slices. Serve warm.
“We served the drink to the traveling
circus of friends and family who
filled our home every December.”

photographs by VICTOR PROTASIO SOU THERN L IVING 169

 F A M I LY R E C I P E S

Paola Velez’s Ham-and-Cheese

Empanadas
ACTIVE 40 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 20 MIN.
MAKES 18 EMPANADAS

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more

N L AT I N C U LT U R E S , land made me extraordinarily for work surface

I
Christmas Eve is appreciative of fresh herbs (like 1 tsp. baking powder

known as Noche achiote, oregano, and cilantro), 1 tsp. kosher salt

3⁄4 cup water, at room temperature,
Buena, and it’s a night fruits (such as passion fruit, man-
plus more as needed
for big meals, big cel- goes, and guavas), and other trop- 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for frying
ebrations, and big ical produce (like cacao, tamarind, 3 oz. leftover fully cooked spiral-cut ham,
gatherings. For our and avocado) because they all cut into 1⁄2-inch cubes (about 2⁄3 cup)
family, a Honey Baked Ham was grew at El Campo. Those child- 3 oz. low-moisture cheese such as
mozzarella, Cheddar, or queso blanco,
always part of the feast. This rec- hood summers shaped the person
cut into 1⁄4-inch cubes or shredded
ipe for ham-stuffed empanadas I am and how I cook and bake (about 2⁄3 cup)
finds its inspiration in those lively now, blending my culture with
1. Whisk together flour, baking powder,
holiday traditions as well as in classic techniques in a fun and and salt in a large mixing bowl until well
some key moments from my playful style. combined. Make a well in middle of
upbringing. These empanadas repurpose flour mixture. Add 3∕4 cup water and
I grew up in the Bronx in New holiday leftovers in an inventive 3 tablespoons vegetable oil to the well
York City, but every summer, my way. I take that traditional ham in mixing bowl.
mother made sure I experienced and cocoon pieces of it in a light 2. Using hands, mix ingredients together
a part of my heritage in the and airy dough to make empana- until dough is tacky but not sticky. If
Dominican Republic. For three or das that hit on all the right notes dough is dry, add water (in 1-teaspoon
increments) until dough comes together.
four months, I stayed with my of savory and sweet. After Noche
Form dough into a ball, and place in bowl.
extended family in the Buena, I pair them
Cover with a dish towel, and let rest at
countryside, or what with rice and beans for room temperature 30 minutes to an hour.
PAOLA VELEZ
we fondly called “El WASHINGTON, D.C. an easy lunch. They
3. Meanwhile, combine ham and cheese
Campo” (the camp). Pastry chef and are a delicious way in a medium bowl; set aside.
That place always had cofounder of to bring core memo-
Bakers Against 4. Lightly flour countertop. Divide dough
such a rich sense of Racism,
ries to life, especially into 18 (1-ounce) balls. Using a rolling pin,
community. Spending @smallorchids when I’m not able to roll out each ball into a 4-inch disk. Spoon
time on my family’s be with my family. 1 tablespoon ham mixture onto half of
each disk, making sure not to overfill. Dab
finger or pastry brush in small bowl of
water, tap off excess moisture, and run
around outside edge of empanada dough
on the half containing filling. Fold dough
edges over to form half circles; crimp with
a fork to seal. Place on a lightly floured
rimmed baking sheet, and repeat process
with remaining dough. If empanadas are
too soft when you pick them up from tray,
chill 10 minutes before frying.

“After Noche Buena, 5. Pour oil to a depth of 2 inches in a large

PO RTRA IT: HECTO R VELE Z

Dutch oven; heat over medium to 350°F.

I pair them with rice and Working in 4 or 5 batches, fry empanadas

beans for an easy lunch.” until golden, 90 seconds to 2 minutes per

side. Place on a paper towel-lined plate
or baking sheet. Serve immediately, or
cool completely and chill in an airtight
container for up to 5 days. Reheat in oven.

170 D ECE M BE R / 202 1

Paola Velez’s
Ham-and-
Cheese
Empanadas
“The dessert reminds
us of the first Christmas
we spent together as a
family across the pond.”

Cynthia Wong’s
Steamed Pudding
 F A M I LY R E C I P E S

H E N I WAS A C H I L D growing up in I’ve always loved the process of inventing, and that’s likely

W
South Carolina, I was always turning why this English pudding means so much to me—it was unlike
fruit and other produce into baked anything I’d ever made. I remember seeing the recipe for the
goods. So, later in life, I followed the first time when we lived in London with our first newborn son
path I loved and attended a culinary and thinking to myself, “I’ve never steamed a whole cake
school called École Lenôtre on the out- before!” It’s quite remarkable how it bubbles along on the stove,
skirts of Paris. with its gooey, buttery texture taking form to resemble a hot
While traveling through Europe, I met my husband, John and fluffy pound cake.
David Harmon, a fellow Southerner, at a free Spanish class Although this pudding isn’t traditionally made for the holidays
in Barcelona. We returned to the States after a very in England, I make it for my family every Christmas
meaningful stint in London, where I worked for Eve. The way it comes together still has me rapt all
restaurants in various leadership roles. While I CYNTHIA WONG these years later. I serve it with a marmalade made
CHARLESTON, SC
enjoyed it, the grueling schedule was not the life Chef/owner of
from pink grapefruits off our backyard tree in
I wanted, especially with two toddlers in tow. I Life Raft Treats, Charleston. The dessert reminds us of the first
quite literally needed a life raft to get out, and that @life.raft.treats Christmas we spent together as a family across the
was when Life Raft Treats, my specialty ice-cream pond. It’s the most delicious keepsake of the joy that
business, was born. slowing down brings, especially during the holidays.

Cynthia Wong’s Steamed Pudding
ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 2 HOURS, 25 MIN.
SERVES 4 TO 6
3⁄4 cup unsalted butter, softened, plus
more for greasing
2 Tbsp. golden syrup, honey, sorghum,
or cane syrup
11⁄4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
13⁄4 tsp. baking powder
1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt
1 cup packed light brown sugar
3 large eggs
1 tsp. vanilla bean paste
1 tsp. grated lemon zest (from 1 lemon)
Vanilla Custard (recipe follows)
1. Grease a 1-quart ceramic pudding bowl
PO RTRA IT: COURTESY LIFE RAFT TR E ATS
fluffy, 2 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a time,
beating well after each addition, 45 sec-
onds total. Add vanilla paste and lemon
zest until combined, 15 seconds. Gradually
add flour mixture on low speed until just
combined, 30 seconds. Scrape batter into
prepared bowl or ramekins; gently tap on
a towel to remove any air bubbles.
3. Cover top of bowl or ramekins with
a piece of buttered aluminum foil large
enough for overhang and loose enough to
allow space for pudding to rise. Crimp foil
tightly just below outer rim. Secure foil
with kitchen twine, running it all the way
around bowl or ramekins, just below rim.
Tie another length of twine to the twine
wrapped around rim; run it over the top
mer, until a cake tester poked through
center comes out clean, about 2 hours
(8-ounce ramekins will cook in 45 min-
utes). Lift pudding out of steamer with
twine handle. Cool on a kitchen towel
10 minutes.
5. Carefully unwrap pudding; place a large
plate over bowl or a small plate over each
ramekin. Invert pudding onto plate. Serve
warm with Vanilla Custard.
Vanilla Custard
Whisk 4 large egg yolks vigorously in a
medium bowl until eggs start to turn light
pale. Combine 1 1∕2 cups heavy cream, 1∕4
cup granulated sugar, and 1 vanilla bean,

scraped and seeded (or 1 tsp. vanilla) in a

or 4 (8-ounce) ceramic ramekins with but-
ter. Cut a circle of parchment paper to fit
bottom of bowl or ramekins. Place parch-
ment in bottom of bowl/ramekins. Drizzle
golden syrup into bottom of bowl, or divide
among ramekins.
2. Stir together flour, baking powder, and
salt in a bowl; set aside. Beat butter and
sugar at medium speed in a stand mixer
with a whisk attachment until light and
and tie to twine on other side to form a
handle to lift pudding out of the steamer.
(Make sure twine on top is long enough
to allow space for pudding to rise.)
4. Place a steamer rack or a heat-proof
bowl turned upside down into a pot large
enough to hold pudding with room for it to
rise covered with lid. Fill pot with boiling
water to halfway up the side of bowl.
Steam over low, keeping water at a sim-
small saucepan; bring to a simmer over
medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally,
until sugar is dissolved. Using a ladle,
gradually add half of the cream mixture
into yolks while whisking constantly. Pour
yolk mixture back into saucepan, using a
spatula to scrape sides of bowl. Cook over
low, whisking constantly, until custard is
thick enough to coat back of a spoon, 15
to 18 minutes.

SOUTHER N LI VING 173

 THE KITCHEN

THE MAIN EVENT

Buttery crab cakes
will go with anything
on your holiday menu.

FO O D ST YLIN G: E MILY NA BO RS HA LL; PRO P STY LIN G: AU D REY DAVI S

H OS PI TA L I T Y

The Case
for Crab Cakes
Senior Food Editor Lisa Cericola has
made seafood an annual tradition,
and she might convince you to do it too

174 D EC E M BE R / 202 1 by LISA CERICOLA photographs by VICTOR PROTASIO

 H O S P I TA L I T Y

E V E RY H O L I DAY S P R E A D needs a
grand centerpiece. Usually it takes
the form of a massive roast or a shiny
glazed ham. These impressive (and
often expensive) proteins are treats—
it’s not every day that you sit down
to a prime rib supper—which is why
they are seasonal mainstays. At my
house, though, it’s crab cakes that bring
everyone to the table.
I’m a Florida native, so it’s not that
internal debate over whether to carve Christmas Crab Cakes
them in the kitchen or at the table. They ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 25 MIN.,
PLUS 1 HOUR CHILLING
feel just as special as any large cut of
SERVES 10
meat and require way less angst.
12 oz. fresh jumbo lump crabmeat,
I’ve learned a few things about
drained and picked over
them over the years. The best ones 12 oz. fresh lump crabmeat, drained
are made with a mix of fresh-picked and picked over
jumbo lump and regular lump crab. 11∕4 cups panko breadcrumbs
Don’t bother with the stuff in cans—it’s 2 large eggs, beaten
Christmas, after all. These two types 3 Tbsp. mayonnaise
work together to form patties that hold 1 tsp. Dijon mustard

surprising that I’d choose seafood for
Christmas dinner over beef or pork.
My Italian roots may also play a part,
though my family is so small that
we’ve never been able to justify a Feast
of the Seven Fishes celebration (way
too many leftovers). There are a lot of
their shape and still have decadent 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1∕4 tsp. salt
chunks of seafood throughout. Keep
1∕4 tsp. black pepper
the flavorings simple. You’ve paid good
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley, plus
money for that crab, so let its delicate more for garnish
sweetness shine. Cook the patties in 1 Tbsp. grated lemon zest plus
a mixture of butter and olive oil. 2 tsp. fresh juice (from 1 lemon)
My last piece of advice is to make and lemon wedges for garnish

a few extra, if possible, and hide them 2 Tbsp. butter

reasons why I love crab cakes. You can
2 Tbsp. olive oil
assemble them ahead, dress them up in the back of the fridge. That way, you
Herbed Crème Fraîche
with sauces, and pair them with just can enjoy crab cakes topped with (recipe at left)
about any side dish. You don’t have to poached eggs for breakfast the next Spicy Pepper Sauce (recipe at left)
take their temperatures, they won’t morning or put one in a soft, squishy Creamy Dijonnaise (recipe at left)
smoke up your kitchen, and you don’t potato bun for lunch. Consider it a
1. Combine crab, panko, beaten eggs,
have to go through that nerve-racking Christmas gift to yourself.
mayonnaise, mustard, Worcestershire
sauce, salt, pepper, parsley, and lemon
zest and juice in a large bowl. Using
your hands or a rubber spatula, gently
fold the ingredients until combined,
being careful not to break up the crab.
Cover and chill at least 1 hour or up
to overnight.
2. Preheat oven to 200°F. Place a wire
rack inside a large rimmed baking
sheet; set aside.
3. Heat butter and olive oil in a large
nonstick skillet over medium. Gently
Herbed Crème Fraîche Spicy Pepper Sauce Creamy Dijonnaise form the chilled crab mixture into 10
Stir together 1 cup Combine 1 drained Stir together 1∕2 cup (2-inch) balls. Do not squeeze mixture.
crème fraîche, 1 Tbsp. (7.5-oz.) jar roasted red mayonnaise, 1∕2 cup sour Place balls in skillet in batches. Do not
chopped fresh parsley, peppers, 1 tsp. hot sauce, cream, 1 Tbsp. country- overcrowd the pan. Cook until golden
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice, style Dijon mustard, brown on one side, about 4 minutes.
2 tsp. chopped fresh dill, 1 tsp. Worcestershire 1 tsp. Dijon mustard, Flatten slightly with a spatula before
2 tsp. chopped fresh sauce, 1∕4 tsp. kosher salt, and 1∕4 tsp. kosher salt gently flipping over; cook until golden
tarragon, 1 tsp. minced and 1 small smashed in a bowl. Transfer to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer
fresh scallions (light green garlic clove in a food a serving bowl, and cooked crab cakes to the prepared
parts only), and 1∕4 tsp. processor. Process until cover. Chill 30 minutes rack, and place in preheated oven to
kosher salt in a bowl until smooth, 1 minute. Transfer before using. keep warm. Repeat procedure with
combined. Transfer to a to a serving bowl, and remaining crab mixture.
ACTIVE 5 MIN. - TOTAL 5 MIN.
serving bowl; cover. Chill cover. Chill 30 minutes MAKES 1 1∕4 CUPS 4. Transfer hot crab cakes to a serving
30 minutes before using. before using. plate; sprinkle with parsley. Serve
ACTIVE 5 MIN. - TOTAL 5 MIN. ACTIVE 5 MIN. - TOTAL 5 MIN. with desired sauces, and garnish with
MAKES 1 1∕4 CUPS MAKES 1 1∕2 CUPS lemon wedges.

SOU THERN LI V ING 175

 THE KITCHEN

HEY Y’ALL

FO O D ST YLIN G: E MILY NA BO RS HA LL; PRO P STY LIN G: AU D REY DAVI S

Slow and Easy

Hey Y’all host Ivy Odom shares dinner party pointers that involve one showstopping
recipe; a few shortcuts; and plenty of time to eat, drink, and be merry
BY IVY ODOM

176 D ECE M BE R / 2021 photographs by VICTOR PROTASIO

 H E Y Y ’A L L

of December, my kitchen never closes. From 2. Reduce heat under skillet to

D
URING THE MONTH
family gatherings to cookie exchanges with friends, I host and medium-high. Add onions and
attend more parties than at any other time of the year. Like most 1/2 teaspoon of the salt to skillet,
and cook, stirring often, until
people, I have my tried-and-true Christmas favorites that always
softened, about 8 minutes.
make a comeback. Some are intensive baking projects like Using a slotted spoon, transfer
intricate iced cookies or fancy cakes, and others are quick, onions to slow cooker; discard
crowd-pleasing dishes that I can throw together at a moment’s drippings in skillet. Add beef
notice. While these recipes will remain staples for me during the holidays, I still find stock, orange juice, ginger, and
myself looking for easy new meals to serve for hungry houseguests. garlic to slow cooker. Cover
This recipe for Slow-Cooker Short Ribs with Pork Rind Gremolata checks every and cook on LOW until meat is
very tender and falling off the
box for my dinner party menu. It’s a fresh take on a comforting classic that looks
bones, about 7 hours.
impressive without being too fussy. And best of all, it’s mostly made in a slow cooker,
3. Remove ribs from slow
which gives me plenty of time to entertain without much standing over the stove.
cooker, and set aside. Pour
It can even be made a day or two in advance. Even though good food is always at remaining mixture in slow
the center of every Southern celebration, it’s getting to spend extra time with the cooker through a fine mesh
ones we love that matters most. strainer into a medium
saucepan; discard solids.
Cook liquid in pan over
medium-high until reduced
by half (about 1 cup), 10 to 12
Slow-Cooker Short Ribs 1 tsp. grated orange zest, Hot cooked grits or polenta, minutes. Stir together corn-
with Pork Rind Gremolata plus 1/2 cup fresh juice (from for serving starch and warm water in a
ACTIVE 35 MIN. - TOTAL 35 MIN., 1 large orange), divided small bowl; whisk into liquid
1. Sprinkle ribs evenly with
PLUS 7 HOURS SLOW-COOKING 1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger,
pepper and 2 teaspoons of in pan, and cook until sauce
unpeeled and sliced
SERVES 4
the salt. Heat oil in a large simmers, 2 to 3 minutes.
1 garlic head, halved crosswise Remove from heat.
3 lb. beef chuck short ribs and loose, papery skins (12-inch) cast-iron skillet over
(about 8 [7-oz.] short ribs) discarded high. When oil is very hot, 4. Stir together pork rinds,
1 tsp. black pepper 1 Tbsp. cornstarch add ribs to skillet, working in parsley, orange zest, and
23/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided 1 Tbsp. warm water batches if needed. Cook until remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup crumbled pork rinds well browned on all sides, in a small bowl. Spoon sauce
2 Tbsp. canola oil
(from about 6 pork rinds) about 10 minutes. Transfer onto a plate, and place ribs on
4 cups sliced yellow onions
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh ribs, bone sides up, to a 5- sauce. Garnish with pork rind
(from 2 medium onions)
flat-leaf parsley or 6-quart slow cooker. mixture, and serve with grits.
11/2 cups beef stock

SOUTHER N LIV I NG 17 7
 Knowledge
is power.
Understanding what cancer
clinical trial options
are available to
you and your
loved ones
can make all
the difference.

WATCHING MY MOTHER GO THROUGH HER CANCER DIAGNOSIS

TAUGHT ME THE IMPORTANCE OF CLINICAL TRIALS.
When my mom was diagnosed with uterine cancer, I knew that I wanted her to have access to
the best treatments available. The journey taught me about the importance of learning all that
you can about the options available to you. I want all people diagnosed with cancer to have
access to the treatments that can help them become long-term survivors.

Cancer clinical trials may be the right option for you or a loved one. The more information you
have about clinical trials, the more empowered you will be to seek out your best treatments.

Stand Up To Cancer is a division of the Entertainment Industry Foundation (EIF), a 501(c)(3) charitable organization.
 THE KITCHEN

QUICK TIP 2 cups granulated sugar

Trade the 1 cup unsalted butter,
pistachios for softened
pecans or walnuts, 2 tsp. vanilla extract
or leave the nuts 4 large eggs
out if you prefer. 2 cups sour cream (from
1 [24-oz.] container)
1 cup dried tart cherries,
chopped (from 1 [5-oz.]
pkg.)
TOPPING
3/4 cup shelled roasted, salted
pistachios, chopped
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup firmly packed light
brown sugar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. fresh ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted
1 cup powdered sugar
5 Tbsp. heavy cream

1. Preheat oven to 325°F.

Grease a 10-inch tube pan
with baking spray.
2. Prepare the Cake: Whisk
together flour, salt, baking
powder, and baking soda in a
bowl. Beat together sugar and
butter on medium-high speed
with a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment until
R EC IPE : A N NA THEO KTISTO ; FO O D STY LIN G: E MILY N A BORS H ALL ; PRO P ST YL ING : AUDR EY DAVIS

light and fluffy, about 4 min-

utes. With mixer on low speed,
add vanilla and eggs, 1 at a
time, beating well after each
addition. Add flour mixture
and sour cream alternately to
butter mixture, beginning and
ending with flour mixture. Fold
in dried cherries. Pour batter
into prepared tube pan.
3. Prepare the Topping: Stir
together pistachios, flour,
brown sugar, cinnamon,
nutmeg, and salt until com-
OV E R E ASY Christmas-Morning bined. Stir in butter. Sprinkle
Coffee Cake over batter.
ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR,

Morning Glory
Enjoy this make-ahead spice cake
with a cup of coffee while you’re
opening presents
4. Bake in preheated oven until
50 MIN.
SERVES 12
a wooden pick inserted in
center comes out clean, 65
CAKE to 70 minutes. Cool in pan 30
Baking spray with flour minutes. Remove from pan;
3 cups all-purpose flour place streusel side up on a
1 tsp. kosher salt platter. Whisk together pow-
1/2 tsp. baking powder dered sugar and cream until
1/2 tsp. baking soda smooth. Drizzle over cake.

photograph by VICTOR PROTASIO SOU THER N LIV ING 181

 Any-Season
Succotash
recipe,
page 184

Pecan-Coated
Roast Loin of Pork
recipe, page 184

1 8 2 D ECE M BE R / 2021
 THE KITCHEN

The Seven
T HE WELCO M E TA B L E Nights
The meaning behind

Joyous Kwanzaa!
the holiday, from
Harris’ book
December 26
For many African Americans, this is a time to honor the Celebrates Umoja, or Unity:
past, look toward the future, and feast with loved ones “to strive for and maintain
BY JESSICA B. HARRIS
unity in the family, community,
nation, and race.”

December 27
Celebrates Kujichagulia, or
CAME LATE TO KWANZAA, branched kinara, or candleholder;

I
Self-Determination: “to define
celebrating it first in the the red, black, and green candles; and the ourselves, name ourselves,
1980s. I remember the effect gifts, which should be handmade or create for ourselves, speak
it had on the starry-eyed educational and (if purchased) obtained for ourselves...”
children present, who from African American or African dias-
watched the ceremony with pora sources. December 28
rapt interest. In 1995, I wrote I led Kwanzaa ceremonies for almost Celebrates Ujima, or Collective
a book about the holiday, A Kwanzaa two decades at the university where Work and Responsibility:
“to build and maintain our
Keepsake, which presented it in the I taught. Over the years, the college
community together...”
context of the African diaspora. events grew in importance and came
Most people are astonished to learn to include things such as African fashion December 29
that Kwanzaa was established only shows, dance performances, poetry Celebrates Ujamaa, or
FO O D ST YLIN G: E MILY NA BO RS HA LL; PRO P STY LIN G: AU D REY DAVI S; I L LUST RAT ION : KENDYL L HI L L EGAS

recently, in 1966, by African American readings, choral singing, drumming, and
activist and professor Maulana Karenga. more. There was always a groaning
It was created to counter-
act the commercialization
of Christmas and the year-
end holidays and to provide
a way to celebrate African
cultural values.
Kwanzaa, which runs
from the day after Christ-
mas through New Year’s,
uses Swahili as its lan-
guage. Seven is an import-
ant number for the holiday,
with seven days, seven
principles, and seven sym-
bols that are used on the
centerpiece for Kwanzaa.
(Those items are the mat
on which the centerpiece
is built; the ears of corn,
which symbolize the chil-
dren in the household;
the arrangement of fruit; the
chalice of unity; the seven-
board buffet that was
loaded with foods from the
“Seven is an African diaspora. It fea-
important tured everything from
number for American fried chicken
the holiday, and collard greens to
with seven Jamaican jerk chicken and
days, seven rice and peas to Trinidadian
principles, and curries and rotis.
seven symbols I reveled in all of the
drumming, dancing, and
that are used
feasting, and I was always
on the center-
moved by watching how
piece for
the holiday and the cere-
Kwanzaa.” mony and its celebration
of our cultural heritage
helped empower the Afri-
can American faculty and
students. We left with our
spines straighter, minds
clearer, and hearts lighter
for having shared a bit of
ourselves with all.
Cooperative Economics: “to
build and maintain our own…
businesses and to profit from
them together.”
December 30
Celebrates Nia, or Purpose:
“to make our collective
vocation the building and
developing of our community
in order to restore our people
to their traditional greatness.”
December 31
Celebrates Kuumba, or
Creativity: “to do always as
much as we can, in the way we
can…to leave our community
more beautiful and beneficial
than we inherited it.”
January 1
Celebrates Imani, or Faith:
“to believe…in our people,
our parents, our teachers, our
leaders, and the righteousness
and victory of our struggle.”

photographs by VICTOR PROTASIO SOU THERN L IVING 183


Pecan-Coated
Roast Loin of Pork
This elegant roast is rubbed
with a mixture of dark brown
sugar and herbs and then
marinated overnight for an
extra-rich flavor. A crust of
chopped pecans adds a little
crunch that balances the
tender meat beautifully.
ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR,
25 MIN., PLUS 12 HOURS CHILLING
SERVES 8
4 lb. boneless pork center-cut
loin roast, trimmed
1/4 cup olive oil, divided
1 Tbsp. dark brown sugar
2 tsp. dried sage
11/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. dried thyme
1 tsp. minced garlic
(from 1 garlic clove)
1 tsp. black pepper
1 cup pecan halves
1. Rub pork loin all over
with 3 tablespoons of the oil.
Pulse brown sugar, sage, salt,
thyme, garlic, and pepper in
a food processor or blender
until finely ground, 8 to 10
pulses. Drizzle in remaining
1 tablespoon oil, pulsing until
mixture forms a thick paste,
8 to 10 pulses. Slather mixture
all over pork. Wrap pork with
plastic wrap, and refrigerate
overnight (or 12 hours).
2. Preheat oven to 400°F.
Pulse pecans in a food
processor or blender until
finely chopped, 10 to 12
pulses. Remove pork from
refrigerator, and unwrap. Roll
pork in chopped pecans, and
place in a roasting pan. Tent
with aluminum foil, being
sure to completely cover
pecans to prevent burning.
3. Roast in preheated oven
20 minutes. Reduce oven
temperature to 350°F (do
not remove pork from oven),
and continue to roast until
a thermometer inserted
into thickest portion of meat
1 8 4 DECE MBE R / 2021
T H E W E L C O M E TA B L E
registers 140°F, about 40
minutes, removing foil after
30 minutes. Remove from
oven; let pork rest 10 minutes
(temperature will rise to
145°F as pork stands). Slice
and serve.
Any-Season Succotash
This colorful and easy side
dish can be made year-round.
Use frozen or fresh vegetables,
depending on what’s available.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 30 MIN.
SERVES 6
6 large (10 oz. each) tomatoes,
peeled, seeded, and coarsely
chopped or 1 (28-oz.) can
diced tomatoes and green
chiles (about 3 cups)
1 Tbsp. canola oil
11/2 cups chopped yellow
onion (from 1 medium
[9-oz.] onion)
1 fresh habanero chile, seeded
and minced (about 2 Tbsp.)
2 tsp. minced garlic (about
2 garlic cloves)
1 lb. fresh or frozen okra,
trimmed and cut into
1/2-inch rounds
2 cups fresh or frozen corn
kernels
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1. If using canned tomatoes,
drain into a large bowl and
reserve 3/4 cup liquid. Set aside.
PORK
POINTER
Let the meat
rest before
slicing it for
the juiciest
results.
2. Heat oil in a large cast-iron
skillet over medium-high.
Add onion; cook, stirring
occasionally, until softened,
about 4 minutes. Add habanero
and garlic, and cook, stirring
constantly, until fragrant,
about 1 minute. Add okra
and corn; cook, stirring
occasionally, until starting
to blister, about 6 minutes.
Stir in chopped tomatoes
(or canned tomatoes with
reserved 3/4 cup liquid); cook,
stirring occasionally, until
thickened, about 4 minutes.
3. Add vinegar, butter, salt,
and pepper, stirring until
butter melts. Serve hot.
LAYER UP FOR
THE HOLIDAYS.

SCAN FOR
HOLIDAY
GIFTS.
Christmas
Sweet Roll
Wreath
recipe,
page 188
 THE KITCHEN
SAVE ROOM
The Sweetest Wreath
For Cassandra King, every time she bakes these warm, pillowy rolls,
she’s reminded of that last Christmas with Big Mama
BY CASSANDRA KING
OMEHOW, WE’VE COME to believe that all
S
Christmas memories must be happy ones or
they don’t count. In my case, I can look back
and say that, regardless of what else might have
been going on, the magic that is Christmas made
the majority of my holidays good ones. I hold
recollections in my heart with joy and gratitude,
as treasures to be cherished.
Yet many of them, as the years go by, remain bittersweet,
despite the glow of the season. In the midst of the happy remem-
brances are the difficult ones, always lurking in the shadows.
I was 17 the year my paternal grandmother, whom we called
Big Mama, died. Right out of central casting,
she was plump with a sweet face, and her
white-streaked hair was often pinned in two
braids on top of her head. As the oldest
granddaughter, I spent my time with her in “Big Mama’s
the kitchen, learning the secrets of the
unique recipes she brought from her Swiss
face lit up
heritage. At Christmas, though, she baked all when I
of the requisite Southern cakes and pies. brought it to
FO O D ST YLIN G: MA RGAR ET MO N RO E DICK EY; PRO P STY L ING : KAY E. C L AR KE
That year, I’d learned to cook and wanted
to surprise her with something different. her and
Because my family lived close by, we always uncovered
had a Christmas Eve supper of oyster stew
with my grandparents. Before adjourning to
it with a
the dining room, we gathered around the tree flourish.”
to open our presents. I couldn’t wait to show
off what I had made: a cinnamony sweet
bread that was shaped like a wreath and had
a cranberry-pecan filling.
I knew Big Mama had been sick, and I’d heard the dreaded
word “cancer” whispered among the grown-ups. Such things
weren’t discussed then, and I was blessedly unaware of how ill
she was. I’d been too excited to show her my wreath to worry,
even when she appeared in her robe for the gift exchange.
Afterward, Mother ushered everyone to the dining room, where
my little sisters got to sit at the big table. Big Mama’s chair was
conspicuously empty, but Mother prepared a tray for her after
photographs by GREG DUPREE
the blessing was said. Despite the joyous occasion, an undeni-
able somberness hung over us. Laughter felt forced, and holiday
greetings rang hollow. For the first time, I felt a tinge of fear.
Mother placed a bowl of oyster stew, saltine crackers, apple
salad, and iced tea on a tray for me to take to Big Mama. At the
door, I stopped, stricken. My grandmother sat in her rocker with
gifts piled at her feet and her face buried in her hands. As soon
as she heard me approach, she raised her head and quickly
composed herself. “Oh, honey, that’s so sweet, but I’m not
hungry,” she said when she saw the meal. “Just leave the tea,
and I’ll be fine.” I tried to stay with her, but she shooed me away,
insisting I go back to my supper. I couldn’t eat either, and my
grandfather teased that I was too old to be
excited about Santa Claus.
When dinner was over, Mother got up to
serve ambrosia and fruitcake. I hurried to get
the Christmas wreath I’d hidden under a dish-
cloth. Instead of bringing it to the table, I
slipped out of the kitchen with it on one of
Mother’s silver platters. Big Mama’s face lit up
when I brought it to her and uncovered it with
a flourish. “Oh, my,” she said with a smile.
“Don’t tell me you made that!” When I admit-
ted I’d done it to surprise her, she declared
it too pretty to cut and said, “But you made it
to eat, so let’s you and me try it.”
I’m not sure if the wreath was the last thing
she ate, but I imagine it was the last thing she
was able to enjoy. Barely three weeks later,
she left this world for the next one. It would
be years before I baked that wreath again. I
couldn’t bear the memory of the previous time I’d made it and
the underlying sorrow of my grandmother’s last Christmas. One
year, when my children were little, they wanted stories of my
holidays growing up. I told them about the grandmother they
never knew and the year I made her a special treat. “Make us
one, Mommy!” they begged, and I knew the time had come.
Since then, I’ve made it every year. I always have gratitude that,
whether joyful or sad, our sweetest memories live on.
SOUTHER N LI VING 187

Christmas Sweet
Roll Wreath
ACTIVE 45 MIN. - TOTAL 3 HOURS,
55 MIN., PLUS 4 HOURS CHILLING
SERVES 20
DOUGH
1 cup whole milk
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 (1/4-oz.) envelope active
dry yeast
4 cups unbleached bread
flour, divided, plus more
for work surface
1 large egg, at room
temperature
1 tsp. fine sea salt
FILLING
1 cup fresh or thawed frozen
cranberries
1 cup pecan halves
3/4 cup chopped unpeeled
orange (from 1 orange)
3/4 cup packed dark brown
sugar
1/4 tsp. fine sea salt
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
1 large egg yolk, at room
temperature
1/2 cup powdered sugar
2-3 tsp. whole milk, as needed
1. Prepare the Dough: Stir
together milk, butter, and ¼
cup water in a small sauce-
pan. Cook over medium-low,
stirring often, just until butter
is melted. Remove from heat.
Let stand, stirring occasionally,
until mixture cools to 120°F,
10 to 15 minutes.
1 8 8 D EC EM BE R / 2021
S AV E R O O M
2. Stir together sugar, yeast,
and 1 1/4 cups of the flour in SIMPLE SNIP
bowl of a stand mixer fitted Cut the outer edge
with a paddle attachment. of the ring but not
Add warm butter mixture, through the center.
and beat on medium-low
speed until well combined,
about 1 minute. Add egg and
1/4 cup of the flour. Beat until
incorporated, about 2 minutes.
With mixer running, gradually
add salt and remaining
2 1/2 cups flour, beating until
mixture forms a stiff and
sticky batter, about 1 minute.
Cover bowl tightly with plastic
wrap. Chill at least 4 hours or
up to 12 hours.
3. Prepare the Filling: Pulse
cranberries, pecans, and
chopped unpeeled orange in
a food processor until finely
chopped, 10 to 12 pulses.
Transfer to a small saucepan;
stir in brown sugar and salt.
Cook over medium, stirring
often, until mixture begins to
bubble around pan edges, 3
to 5 minutes. Reduce heat to 5. Using kitchen shears and 6. About 30 minutes before
medium-low; cook, stirring keeping Dough ring on baking Dough is finished rising,
often, until thick and jammy, sheet, make cuts around 1 ring preheat oven to 350°F with
about 5 minutes. Remove at 1 1/2-inch intervals, cutting racks in top third and lower
from heat. Cool completely, from outer edge and in toward third positions. Meanwhile,
about 1 hour. center, leaving about 3/4 inch whisk together egg yolk and
4. Turn Dough out onto a very attached at the center. Turn 1 tablespoon water in a small
lightly floured work surface. each cut section, in the same bowl. Brush Dough rings
Divide evenly into 2 pieces direction, to lie on its side lightly with egg mixture. Bake
(about 1 pound, 2 ounces with the Filling side exposed. until golden brown, 25 to 30
each). Working with 1 Dough Repeat process with remain- minutes, rotating baking
piece at a time, roll into a 14- ing Dough ring. Cover rings sheets between top and
x 7-inch rectangle. Spread loosely with plastic wrap. Let bottom racks halfway through
half of the cooled Filling rise in a warm place (75°F to bake time. Do not remove
(about 1 cup) on top of Dough 85°F) until doubled in volume, from oven. Cool completely
rectangle, spreading to edges. about 1 hour. on baking sheets in oven,
Starting with 1 long side, roll about 30 minutes.
up jelly-roll style, and pinch 7. Whisk together powdered
each end to seal. Shape into a sugar and 2 teaspoons of the
ring (about 7 inches in diam- milk in a small bowl. Add
eter), and pinch ends together remaining 1 teaspoon milk,
to seal. Place ring, seam side 1/4 teaspoon at a time, if
down, on a baking sheet needed to thin glaze to a
coated with cooking spray. pourable consistency. Drizzle
Repeat process using glaze over rings; let stand 10
remaining Dough and Filling, minutes. Serve warm.
placing ring on a separate
greased baking sheet.
A DV E RT I S E M E N T SOUT H ER N H OSP ITA L ITY

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 COOKING SCHOOL
T I P S A N D T R I C K S F R O M T H E S O U T H ’ S M O S T T R U S T E D K I T C H E N

SWEET SPIN-OFFS
1
1.
LEMON-ROSEMARY SQUARES
Add 4 tsp. lemon zest and
2 tsp. minced fresh rosemary
to dough. Cut chilled dough
4 into 2 1∕2-inch squares using a
fluted cutter. Bake as directed.

2.
2 5 PISTACHIO THUMBPRINTS
Form chilled dough into 1 Tbsp.
balls, and roll in chopped
pistachios. Indent centers with
thumb, and fill with 1∕2 tsp.
raspberry jam. Chill 30 minutes.
3 Bake 12 to 15 minutes.

R EC IPES : JASMIN E S MITH; FO O D STY LIN G: EMILY N A BORS H AL L ; P ROP ST YL IN G: AUDR EY DAVIS ; IL LUST RAT IO N: KEN DYL L HIL L EGAS
3.
SPICED RAISIN PINWHEELS
Roll chilled dough into a 10- x
13-inch rectangle. Combine
1∕3 cup each brown sugar,
chopped walnuts, and raisins;
2 Tbsp. melted butter; and
2 tsp. cinnamon. Sprinkle over
Make Some Dough dough. Roll tightly into a log.
Get your cookie tins ready: This easy recipe Wrap; chill 1 hour. Slice 1∕3 inch
can turn into five different treats thick. Bake 12 to 15 minutes.

4.
All-Purpose until light and fluffy. Beat plastic wrap. Chill 2 hours. CHOCOLATE-TAHINI CRISPS
Cookie Dough in 2 large eggs and 1 tsp. Roll dough on a floured Replace 1∕4 cup of the butter
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 45 vanilla extract. Set aside. surface to 1∕4-inch thick- with 1∕4 cup tahini; add 3 Tbsp.
MIN., PLUS 2 HOURS, 30 MIN.
Combine 2 1∕2 cups all- ness; cut cookies using a dark cocoa to dough. Shape
CHILLING
purpose flour and 1∕2 tsp. 2 1∕2-inch round cutter, chilled dough into a log; roll in
MAKES ABOUT 24 COOKIES
each baking powder and rerolling scraps as needed. sesame seeds. Wrap; chill 1
Beat 1 cup softened butter salt; gradually add to butter Place on parchment-lined hour. Slice 1∕4 inch thick. Bake
and 3∕4 cup granulated mixture, beating on low baking sheets; chill 30 as directed.
sugar with an electric until combined. Shape minutes. Bake at 350°F
mixer on medium speed dough into a disk; wrap in for 10 to 12 minutes. 5.
CRAN-ORANGE SHORTBREAD
Add 2 tsp. orange zest, 1∕3 cup
chopped dried cranberries, and
1∕4 cup cornstarch to dough. Roll
chilled dough into a 1∕2-inch-
“Before you bake cutout cookies, pop them in
thick square; cut into 3-inch
the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Chilling the rectangles. Bake 18 minutes.
dough helps it hold its shape when baked.” Dip cooled cookies into melted
—Jasmine Smith, Test Kitchen Professional white chocolate, and top with
chopped dried cranberries.

19 0 DEC EM B ER / 2021 photograph by VICTOR PROTASIO

 COOKING SCHOOL

Recipe Index
Cook of
the Month
Appetizers Rosemary-and- Biscotti, P. 144 Vanilla Bean
Arancini, P. 129 Ginger Mule, P. 17 Cherry-Walnut Buttercream
Williams Family Rugelach, P. 143 Frosting, P. 162
Bacon-Cheese
Gougères, P. 157 Wassail, P. 169 Chocolate- Grammy
Baked Brie Almond Rolls, P. 98
Bites, P. 158 Mains Thumbprints, Lemon-
Cheesy Potato Christmas Crab P. 144 Rosemary
Croquettes, P. 131 Cakes, P. 175 Chocolate Squares, P. 190
Camille Hall McGuire Chopped Lowcountry Gingerbread Mint Meringue
MOBILE, ALABAMA
Chicken Livers Fish Stew, P. 96 Wreaths, P. 143 Christmas
on Toast, P. 97 Paola Velez’s Chocolate- Trees, P. 141
Favorite ingredients: “Fresh
vegetables and seafood from Creamy Ham-and- Tahini Crisps, Nicola’s Rum
the Gulf.” Spinach-Ricotta Cheese P. 190 Cake, P. 120
Proudest moment in the kitchen: Crostini, P. 157 Empanadas, Christmas Mice, Pistachio
“When family and friends are P. 170 P. 30 Thumbprints,
Crispy Spiced
gathered ’round, holding hands, Pecan-Coated Christmas- P. 190
Chickpeas, P. 129
and blessing the meal that
Fried Artichoke Roast Loin of Morning Coffee Red Velvet
was prepared with love from
Hearts, P. 129 Pork, P. 184 Cake, P. 181 Cake Crinkle
family recipes.”
Slow-Cooker Christmas Sweet Cookies, P. 140
Most cherished cookbook: Fried Olives,
“Recipe Jubilee! by the Junior P. 130 Short Ribs Roll Wreath, Shortbread
League of Mobile. My husband with Pork Rind P. 188 Present and Star
Homemade
and I were given a copy years Gremolata, P. 177 Coconut-Citrus Cookies, P. 165
Potato Chips,
ago when we chose our wedding Bars, P. 107 Spiced Raisin
P. 130
rings at Claude Moore Jeweler Sides Coconut Panna Pinwheels, P. 190
in Mobile.” Hot Cheesy
Crab Dip, P. 158 Any-Season Cotta with Blood Striped Slice-
Entertaining style: “My mom, aunt,
and grandmothers showed me
Succotash, P. 184 Orange Granita, and-Bake
Mini Sweet
how to include different textures Potato Latkes, Carolina Gold P. 107 Shortbread, P. 140
and colors in food preparations. P. 129
Rice Middlins, Coconut-Pecan Triple-Chocolate
I was also taught to set the table P. 97 Truffles, P. 142 Sandwich
Oven-Fried
for meals, use the good china, Winter Greens Cornmeal-Lime Cookies, P. 140
and always have fresh flowers.”
“Everything”
Drumettes, P. 130 Salad with Cookies, P. 142 Tropical
Cooking essentials: “A good
Creamy Walnut Cran-Orange Coconut-Citrus
cutting board, a sharp knife, Pistachio-
Vinaigrette, P. 95 Shortbread, P. 190 Pie, P. 108
and my iron skillet.” Cheddar
Shortbread, P. 157 Crunchy Peanut
Sweets Extras
Roasted Oysters Butter-Chocolate
with Mushrooms All-Purpose Swirl Bars, P. 142 Clementine-
and Watercress, Cookie Dough, Cynthia Wong’s Vanilla Bean
P. 96
P. 190 Steamed Marmalade,
COURTESY CA MILLE HA LL MCGUIR E

Spicy Cheese Ambrosia Pudding with P. 20

Twists, P. 157 Cheesecake, Vanilla Custard, Creamy

P. 107 P. 173 Dijonnaise,
Join Our Facebook Beverages Ambrosia Earl Grey Tea P. 175
Cooking Group!
Berry Juniper Cupcakes, P. 109 Cakes, P. 141 Herbed Crème
Hover your phone’s
camera over the smart Fizz, P. 17 Ambrosia Trifle, Eggnog Layer Fraîche, P. 175
code, and request Comfort and P. 108 Cake with Spicy Pepper
to join. Joy, P. 17 Bourbon-Orange Bourbon- Sauce, P. 175

SOU THER N LIV ING 19 1


Reporting for Duty
Ideal candidate willing to work nights and holidays
EAR MR. CLAUS,
D
Please accept this
informal note as an
official application
for employment with
your highly respected
organization at the
North Pole location.
Since you have ignored every single
letter I have written in the past quarter
century and never delivered on one thing
I have asked for (see cor-
respondence dated 2016,
2017, 2018, 2019, etc., in
reference to “Camaro”), I
have decided that your
company is exactly the
kind of operation I need
to work for.
I mean, if all you have
to do to get a paycheck up
there on the ice pack is
lie around with a pepper-
mint stick stuck in your
mouth and ignore the
wishes of your customers,
I believe I am absolutely
qualified for the job. I, too,
can open a letter, yawn,
and then proceed to
crush someone’s hopes
and dreams. I, too, can
peruse a request for a
pony and then send out,
instead, a turnip and an
electric toothbrush.
I do not know if, as I went about the
business of letting everyone down, I
would be required to be jolly. But I do
hear that it’s much easier if you have a
Christmas toddy…or two. Rumor has it
192 D ECE M BER / 2021
RICK BRAGG
SOUTHERN JOURNAL
you’re really in the spirit this time of year,
but who am I to judge? Heck, I’ll even
join you. As my people like to say, “It ain’t
drinkin’ if it’s eggnog.”
You can even give me the dirty work.
I am good at dealing with the disappoint-
ment of others. Ask anyone. “Promise
’em the moon” is my motto. Then slam
some Fruit of the Loom drawers down
the chimney, and bust it on out of there.
By morning, you can be across the state
line. This is also something I have expe-
rience with; people in my family have
long been familiar with jurisdictions and
statutes of limitation.
I guess what I am trying to convey is
this: Just think about how much easier
your life as chief executive officer would
be if you had a personal assistant who
could assume the burden. I know there
is only one Santa Claus. I’m just saying I
could be the guy behind the guy if you
ever came down with the gout. In 1976,
I had to watch the counter at my uncle’s
doughnut shop while he went to get
some stamps at the post office. So I do
have management experience.
It may be that you
consider me unfit for an
executive position and
you would prefer I start
at the bottom. Let me just
assure you that I am
not afraid of hard work.
Please see the attached
résumé. You’ll find that,
while I have wasted the
past 45 years of my life
as a writer, before that I
drove a dump truck. In an
operation of your size,
surely you need a truck
driver, and I bet it’s hard
for the elves to reach the
pedals, what with their
little bitty legs.
I realize how busy you
must be and appreciate
your time. I should prob-
ably have gone through
personnel for this, but I
thought going straight to
the top was better than trying to muddle
through those pointy-heads.
Please let me know something soon,
as I’m entertaining several offers. I’m
actually a finalist for Baby New Year.
illustration by JOHN CUNEO
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