Eyelets

UNIT 11 EYELETS
Structure
11.1 Introduction
Objectives

11.2 Eyelet Selection

11.3 Visible Eyelet
11.4 Invisible Eyelet
11.5 Summary
11.6 Key Words

11.1 INTRODUCTION
Eyelets are metal fittings, which are clenched in the holes of the quarters or tongues
through which a string, ribbon or thong is passed to hold the shoe on the foot. It is a
small metal disc with hole in the center used to reinforce lace holes. The eyelets in
various shapes and sizes are sometimes used to effect the style changes. Eyelets can be
fitted by hand setting tool or by manual eyeletter or by electric powered eyelet setting
machine.
Objectives
After studying this unit, you should be able to
• fix visible eyelets,
• fix blind eyelets,
• identify parts of the eyelet,
• select eyelets to be used, and
• select tools and accessories for manual eyeleting.

11.2 EYELET SELECTION

When a designer selects the eyelets to be used, he must ensure the eyelet dimension is
suitable for the material being used no matter which shape of eyelet he choose, whether it
is round, oblong, oval or square. The size of the eyelet is measured as inside diameter or
opening of eyelet and depends on the material and choice. Eyelet parts consist of
• Barrel length,
• Head and
• Opening of eyelet.
Opening is usually measured in millimeters across the internal diameter.
Width of the head depends on the designer choice and material to be eyeleted.
Technically, the eyelets having wider head is found most suitable for softer the material
and used as visible eyeleting.
The barrel length is measured in millimeters along the barrel. The length required would
be decided by the thickness of the material. Barrel must go through the material and
flange over approximately the same or less width as head.
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Materials When eyeleting synthetic, fabrics and canvas a washer is normally used, it is placed over
the barrel and locked in place by roll spreader. The washer should fit tightly over the
barrel and should be slightly wider than the eyelet head. Now-a-days plastic or other
similar material kind of eyelets are in use for delicate and soft kind of materials.
SAQ 1
(a) On what factor does the selection of eyelets depend?
(b) How will you measure the size of eyelets?
(c) Explain the barrel? How the barrel length is selected?
(d) Why washer is used during eyeleting of synthetic and textile material?

11.3 VISIBLE EYELET

The visible eyelets are shown on the upper quarter surface and also served ornamental
purpose to the shoe. During fixing the eyelets one should take care for proper clenching
of eyelets onto the material being worked on. Visible eyelet is also known as ordinary
eyelet which holes should be reinforced with suitable reinforcement material. These
eyelets can be fixed manually or by machine.

Tools and Accessories Required for Manual Eyeleting

To set eyelets manually, following tools are needed :
• Eyeleting hammer.
• An eyelet spreader or star spreader.
• Punch – to match the size of eyelet. A self-healing cutting mat or nylon
board is needed to protect the surface of the desk and edges of the
punch.
• Work stone for setting the eyelets from clinching side.

34 • Soft leather piece (to place beneath the eyelets while pressing).
Pre-Checks for Manual Eyeleting
 • Recognize/identify the marking on components to be eyeleted. Eyelets

• Select suitable eyelets for eyeleting (as per specifications).

• Select suitable eyelet punch (Size of punch and its overall quality).
• Select suitable star spreader (Size of star spreader and its overall quality).
• Select suitable hammer (Size and its over all quality). It should be light.
• Select suitable Nylon board (its over all quality). The surface should be
smooth.
• Ensure that specified reinforcement tape is fixed under the eyelet mark.
Method for Manual Eyeleting
• Fix suitable reinforcement tape under the eyelet marking on upper quarter.
• Start punching over specified marking one by one in a sequence. (Make a
hole using hole punch over given marking. This punch has a round, hollow
tip at one end that cuts a hole through the leather. Place this sharp edge of the
punch where you want the hole to be and then give a tap with your
hammer. A hole is made in the upper and lining just large enough for the
barrel of the eyelet to pass.)
• Insert suitable eyelets through each hole.
• Turn the upper on other side and place it over work stone by placing fine
leather strip beneath eyelets (so that the head of the eyelets will not
damaged).
• Start spreading the eyelets with the help of star spreader against the straight
end of the barrel by placing the tool straight. Tap the end of the tool with a
hammer. A few short taps (rather than one big smash) is recommended.
• Apply gentle pressure on clenched eyelets with the help of hammer by
placing fine leather strip beneath eyelets. This operation is done to obtained
the smooth surface over the clenched eyelets
(i) Care should be taken not to damage the head of the eyelet by applying
excess pressure.
(ii) Eyelet is not to turn in the material when twisted between thumb and
index finger against loose fitting against loose fitting.
(iii) Eyelet head should be on the grain side.
(iv) Punch size should be selected to suit the eyelets to be used.

Figure 11.1 : Spreader and Hole Punching Tool

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Materials

Figure 11.3 : Manual Eyelleter

It is necessary to insert the eyelets quickly and efficiently; manual eyeletter is most
suitable means for this purpose. Manual eyeletter can be fitted with pins and
spreader suitable for the compression of studs, rivets, hooks, and D-rings. Punches
and bases can also be fitted for pre punching of eyelets holes. This machine has
locating pin and spreader, which can be changed according to the size of the
eyelets. It requires a pre-punched hole on which eyelets are to be set.
• Eyelets are inserted in the holes in the upper through the grain side.
• Turn the upper over and place the first eyelet over the locating pin.
• When treadle is pressed hard.
If Roll Spreader is Used
• Then spreader puts pressure on the eyelet barrel which begins to curl.
• As more pressure is applied the barrel completely rolls over to clench the
eyelet head against the material.

If Star Spreader is Used

• Then it puts pressure on the eyelet barrel and barrel begins to spread out in
shape of a star.
• As more pressure is applied barrel completely stars out to clench the eyelet
head against the material.

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Types of Locating Pin and Spreaders
 Locating Pin Eyelets

This setting die is used for material with a hole pre-punched. The rounded
tip is used to locate the hole without scratching or damaging marring the
material. This die can be used on cloth, leather, plastic, cardboard or paper.
These are usually spring loaded, so that they move down when pressure is
applied to the eyelet. The pin is held in place by screw and spring.
• The pin should fit loosely inside the eyelet barrel. It should be 1mm
less then eyelet diameter.
• There is a recess around the pin which is same shape and size as the
eyelet head.
• If the recess and the head are of not the same shape, damaged can be
caused to the eyelet head, when the eyelet is clenched.
Pick-up Pin
These pins are used on self-punching eyelets where the pin picks the eyelet out of
the raceway.
• These pins position the eyelet on the material where a driver pushes
the eyelet through the material.
• As the pick up pin is withdrawn, eyelets barrel spreads.
Roll Spreader (for Visible Eyelet)
• The roll spreader is smooth and when roll spreader puts pressure on the
eyelet barrel, the barrel begins to curl.
• As more pressure is applied the barrel completely rolls over to clench the
eyelet head against material. The roll spreader is not suitable for soft
material, if the eyelet barrel is not scored or if a washer is not used.
Star Spreader
When the star spreader puts pressure on the eyelets barrel :
• The barrel begins to spreads out in the shape of a star.
• As more pressure is applied the barrel begins to completely star out to clench
the eyelet head against material.
• The star spreader is suitable for softer material as it spreads and grips, but a
washer is preferred for synthetic and fabrics.
SAQ 1
(a) Explain visible eyeleting.
(b) Write name of tools used during manual eyeleting.

11.4 INVISIBLE EYELET

Invisible eyelets are not seen from the surface. And they clenched only to the lining.
They are also known as blind eyelets. A hole is made in the lining and upper and eyelet is
inserted from the lining side. Then it is curled by roll spreader for invisible eyelets.
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Materials

Tools and accessories required for invisible eyeleting is same as for visible eyeleting, but
care should be taken during selection of punch and star spreader. As it has already been
made clear that the eyelets are fixed over the lining quarter during invisible eyeleting.
When shoe is made and wear, the eyelets fixed on the upper are not visible that is why
they are called invisible or blind eyelets. The lining material used in upper making is
always soft and thin as compared to the upper leather. If any kind of metal fixing
(eyeleting) is done on lining, it is obvious that the size of the eyelets should be smaller
than the visible eyelets as per the amount of strain and stress lies on the material. A small
eyelet refers to the diameter of head and length and size of the barrel. To meet such
requirements, punch and star spreader tools are used during blind eyeleting is selected as
per the dimensions of the eyelet.
Pre-checks for Invisible Eyeleting
• Recognize/identify the marking on components to be eyeleted.
• Select suitable eyelets for eyeleting (as per specifications).
• Select suitable eyelet punch (Size of punch and its overall quality).
• Select suitable star spreader (Size of star spreader and its overall quality).
• Select suitable hammer (Size and its overall quality). It should be light.
• Select suitable Nylon board (its overall quality). The surface should be
smooth.
• Ensure that, specified reinforcement tape is fixed under the eyelet mark.
Method for Invisible Eyeleting
• Fix suitable reinforcement tape under the eyelet marking on lining quarter.
• Attach lining and upper quarter together with the help of suitable adhesive.
• Start punching over specified marking one by one in a sequence. (Make a
hole using hole punch over given marking. This punch has a round, hollow
tip at one end that cuts a hole through the leather. Place this sharp edge of
the punch where you want the hole to be and then give a tap with your
hammer. A hole is made in the upper and lining just large enough for the
barrel of the eyelet to pass.)
• Separate the lining from upper quarter till just below the eyelets.
• Insert suitable eyelets through each hole of lining quarter by keeping the
head towards the grain side.
• Place grain side of lining over the work stone by placing a fine leather strip
38 beneath eyelets (so that the head of the eyelets will not damage).
 • Start spreading the eyelets with the help of star spreader against the straight Eyelets
end of the barrel by placing the tool straight. Tap the end of the tool with a
hammer. A few short taps (rather than one big smash) is recommended.
• Apply gentle pressure on clenched eyelets with the help of hammer by
placing fine leather strip beneath eyelets. This operation is done to obtain the
smooth surface over the clenched eyelets.
• Apply suitable adhesive on lining and upper quarter flesh side and after
drying fix it together by matching the eyelet holes.
During eyeleting operation extra care is taken in following terms :
(i) Care should be taken not to damage the head of the eyelet by applying excess
pressure.
(ii) Eyelet is not to turn in the material when twisted between thumb and index
finger.
(iii) Eyelet head should be on the grain side.
(iv) Punch size should be selected to suit the eyelets to be used.
(v) Washer can be used accordingly.
SAQ 2
(a) What do you understand by invisible eyelets?
(b) Write sequence operation (methods) of visible eyeleting.
(c) Write sequence operation (methods) of invisible eyeleting.

11.5 SUMMARY
Eyelets are the metal fittings, which are clenched in the holes in quarters or tongues
through which a string, ribbon or thong is passed to hold the shoe on the foot. It is a
small metal disc with hole in the center used to reinforce lace holes. In footwear industry
designs change rapidly. The use of eyelets in various shapes and sizes are sometimes
used to effect these style changes. Eyelets can be fitted by hand held setting tool or by
manual eyeletter or by electric powered eyeleting setting machine. These are also used as
ornamentation during upper closing.
In this unit, we have learned that
• Choice of eyelet depends on design of the footwear and it is available in
different finishes, shapes and colours.
• Eyelets size and shape can affect the design of footwear.
• The size of eyelet is inside diameter of the head.
• Head size depends on design and material.
• Barrel length should be long enough to pass the material and clench the
eyelet head strongly.
• Eyelets can be visible or invisible depending on the choice.
• Barrel is sharp and smooth for self-punching eyelet.
• Pre-punched holes are required for blunt and scored barrel eyelets. 39
Materials • Star spreader is required for spreading the eyelets and is suitable for softer
material.
• Washer should be used for soft material if roll spreader is used to curl the
barrel.
• Suitable reinforcement must be provided to areas to be eyeleted.
• Eyelets can be fixed by hand tool or manual eyeletter or electric powered
eyeleting machine.

11.6 KEY WORDS

Barrel : It is the long tube below the head of the eyelet.

Star Spreader : A tool having star shape base used to clench the
barrel tip.
Blind Eyelet : Eyelet fixed on lining and not visible from upper
side is known as blind eyelet.
Visible Eyelet : Eyelet fixed through upper and lining and eyelet
head is visible from top side is known as visible
eyelet.

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 Eyelets
MATERIALS
Shoe making is a lengthy process and material have involved with this have maximum
handling at different level of production, in and around the shop floor.
This block contains 5 units that deal with following topics.
In Unit 7, needle parts and functions, needle size, needle points, selection of needle and
issue of needle is explained.
In Unit 8, thread size, property, twist and identification of threads are explained. Thread
quality during good stitch formation is also introduced.
In Unit 9, needs of reinforcement and different placement of reinforcement is discussed.
In Unit 10, different types of adhesive in sewing is explained with safety precautions and
advantages and disadvantages of closing room adhesives.
In Unit 11, types of valet, tooling required while manual eyeleting and selection of eyelet
are discussed.
Solved examples and self assessment questions are included in these units wherever
necessary.

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