Step 1: 

Build the upper bins

Photo 1: Build the bins

Position the shelves with spacers and tack them in place with a brad nailer. Then add screws for
strength.

Cut the plywood parts according to the Cutting List above. Assemble each of the three bins
as shown in Photo 1. To make assembly faster, we used self-drilling screws, which means
you won't need a pilot hole or a countersink. However, drill a shallow starter hole with a
3/32-in. bit to keep the tip of the screw from wandering off the mark as you start to drive
the screw.
When you join the three bins (Photo 2), you'll need a work surface that's absolutely flat; an
old flush panel door on sawhorses works perfectly for this. Finish the bin unit by gluing and
nailing the top into place (Photo 3).
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Step 2: Assemble the drawers

Photo 4: Build the drawers

Tack them together with nails and glue, then add screws. A squaring jig makes square assembly
easy. Drill holes through the back of each drawer to act as a handle.

Measure the openings in the bottom of the bins and then downsize the drawer about 1/8 in.
in total height and width. Since the drawers don't have slides, this will give you just the
right clearance. Take into account the thickness of the plywood drawer bottom. Sometimes
“1/4-in. plywood” is actually 3/16 in. thick.
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Step 3: Build the lower shelving section

Measure the width of the top assembly and then cut the parts for the lower shelving unit so
it'll be exactly the same width. “Three-quarter-inch” plywood isn't exactly 3/4 in. thick; it's
actually 23/32 in. That's why it's critical to measure. Use the Cutting List as a guide, but
measure carefully to be sure.
Screw the sides to the shelves using Figure A as your guide. Install the lower partition (H)
halfway between the bottom and middle shelf. Cut the 1/2-in. plywood back and check the
assembly for square, then glue and nail it to the back of the sides and shelf.
To reinforce the bottom shelf, rip 3-1/2-in. strips of 3/4-in. plywood (parts P and Q) and
glue and nail them to the bottom of the assembly. Screw the casters to the strips.
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Step 4: Combine the two sections

Photo 5: Mount the slides for the pullout table
Glue and nail spacers to sides, then add the slides. This is a lot easier to do before you attach the
sides to the bins.

Mount the drawer slide that will support the pullout table (Photo 5). Then lay the upper unit
onto its back and glue and screw the outer sides (R) to the bin sides (A). You may need to
shim underneath to bring the sides perfectly flush.
Next, slide the lower unit into the upper until it contacts the spacers (W). Align the faces of
the lower assembly with the outer sides (R) and drive the screws from the inside. You'll
need nine screws per side.
At this stage, the project has acquired considerable heft, so get someone to help you tip it
upright.
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Step 5: Assemble the pullout table and trim and apply a finish

Photo 7: Cover exposed plywood edges

If the trim is a bit too wide, you can shave it slightly with your table saw. Glue and nail the edging
into place.

With the unit nearly finished, you can now make the pullout table. Carefully measure the
distance between the side spacers. Subtract 1 in. from this measurement (1/2-in. clearance
for each drawer slide) and build the table to this precise width. Now you can cut and screw
the drawer faces to the front of the drawers. Be sure you have 1/4-in. clearance between the
bottom of the drawer faces and the pullout table. Align the edges of the outer drawer faces
so they're even with the table front.
Tip: To make sure your drawers don't get trapped inside their openings before you install
the fronts, press a strip of masking tape onto the inside front of the drawer and let it hang
past the drawer. You can pull on the tape if you accidentally close the drawer.
For a fast, easy finish, use a wipe-on polyurethane or Watco oil. Use a brush to get into
tight areas and then a lint-free rag to wipe the finish. Let dry and give it a second coat.