You are on page 1of 12

Consumer Behavior and Identity: How Lack of

Inclusivity Lost Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown

Aurore Bardey
Utkarsha Mehdiratta
2021-01-01

Abstract

Founded in 1977, Victoria’s Secret is a brand that has been metaphorically synonymous with the word
“lingerie.” The company had been focusing its brand image on a narrow image of sexuality, representing
“the perfect beauty” as illustrated by “The Perfect Body” campaign (2015). However, the company started
to face a sharp decline shortly after that campaign as their target consumer boycotted their typical thin
body ideal type of advertising. The frustration of consumers with “The Perfect Body” campaign illustrates
the gap between consumer preference and Victoria’s Secret marketing communications. Within a week
following the start of the campaign, 27,000 consumers signed an online petition asking the brand to
apologize and change the campaign (Bahadur 2014). This lack of grasping consumers’ shift of preference
has led to Victoria’s Secret’s fall and has opened a door for disrupters to enter the lingerie industry. The
present case study will analyze how Victoria’s Secret was successful in capturing attention through its
strong brand identity but how that fell out of favor due to the lack of engagement with changing consumer
demands. This case study will highlight how that enabled a disrupter, namely, Savage X Fenty, to enter
the market with a fresh aesthetic that appealed to consumers looking for more inclusive online brands in
the lingerie segment.

Table of Contents
Learning Objectives .............................................................................................................................. 1
Introduction .......................................................................................................................................... 2
Business Problem ................................................................................................................................ 5
Business Questions .............................................................................................................................. 8
Extended Teaching Notes ..............................................................................................................
References and Further Reading .......................................................................................................... 9

Learning Objectives
Upon completion of this case, students will be able to:

• Understand the impact of “the perfect body” strategy on consumer behavior.

• Evaluate the impact of inclusivity on consumer behavior.

• Understand changing consumer preference for inclusivity.

• Analyze and evaluate Victoria’s Secret’s brand and marketing strategy in the context of inclusivity.

1
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Consumer Behavior and Identity:
How Lack of Inclusivity Lost
Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown
• Evaluate how Victoria’s Secret’s marketing strategy has enabled the rise of disrupters in the lingerie
industry.

• Evaluate strategic alternatives for Victoria’s Secret in light of the shift in consumer behavior.

Introduction
The lingerie industry and why we buy
Lingerie is more than just a frivolous part of a woman’s closet; it helps to build their body image ( Jantzen,
Østergaard, and Vieira 2006 ; Tsaousi 2011 ). Rudd and Lennon (2000) talk about how women of all
sizes use clothing to manage their appearance, and research has found that lingerie is an important
aspect that helps in the formation of one’s self-image and induces feelings of comfort, satisfaction, and
positive self-esteem ( Jantzen 2006 ; Tsaousi 2011 ).

According to a report by Statista (2020a) , the global lingerie retail market was valued at about $29.84
billion in 2020 and it is predicted to reach a value of $49.5 billion in five years’ time. Across the United
Kingdom and United States, the most invested in bra styles are, in order of consumer preference: (1)
padded bras, (2) bralettes, (3) sports bras, and (4) push-up style bras ( Marci 2020 ). Over the past
two years, the push-up style bras have been trending down and have been eventually supplanted by
comfort and functionality ( Marci 2020 ). Regarding panty styles, briefs seem to be the preferred panty
styles across American and British consumers ( Marci 2020 ). While the number of thongs in stock
increased by 13 percent over the past two years, higher waist panties are still the preferred underwear
cut by consumers, as illustrated by the 29 percent increase of the higher waist styles’ number of retailing
since 2018 ( Marci 2020 ). In addition to the shift of consumer preference for comfort and functionality,
consumers have been looking for a larger offer of nude underwear colors and a larger offer of underwear
sizes ( Marci 2020 ). As for the beauty and clothing industry, consumers are eager for more inclusivity in
the lingerie industry.

Inclusivity, namely, representation of all ethnicities, ages, body types, sexual and gender orientation
as well as physical abilities, have been proven to be an effective marketing tool to attract consumers
(Forbes-Bell, Bardy, and Fagan 2019; Taylor and Lee 1994 ). Inclusivity in the fashion industry has
been gaining importance, and with social media as an omnipresent channel for communication, there
is a consumer-driven pressure on retail brands to be more inclusive. Mintel (2019b) reports that 41
percent of women would prefer advertisements with more body sizes being represented, and 30 percent
of women would prefer seeing advertisements with women of all age groups. Wider societal shifts such as
the #MeToo movement together with increasing demand for body-positive messaging are reshaping the
lingerie market, from product to marketing ( Sutherland 2019 ).

Despite holding a large market share, the lingerie sector has room for improvement regarding its
inclusivity offer. The rise of e-commerce and social media has also led to the rise of digitally native
entrants to the market ( Marci 2020 ) that embrace this demand for inclusivity, for example, Savage
X Fenty, Les Boys and Les Girls, JBC Lingerie, Nasty Gal, and ThirdLove, to name a few. One of the
most famous underwear brands, Victoria’s Secret, exemplifies the lack of adaptation to this consumer
preference shift.

Victoria’s Secret’s rise and fall


In the mid-1970s, an MBA student Roy Raymond felt that traditional department stores were not
friendly enough toward men shopping for women’s lingerie. Raymond wanted to buy his wife some nice

2
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Consumer Behavior and Identity:
How Lack of Inclusivity Lost
Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown
underwear, but he couldn’t find any that weren’t unfashionable ( Chang 2017 ). This is how Roy and his
wife Gaye Raymond started the brand Victoria’s Secret in 1977, opening the first store in California. Roy
and Gaye Raymond aimed to offer an alternative of what they considered to be “ugly, floral-print nylon
nightgowns” ( Bishop 1986 ). By 1982, the company was making more than $4 million in annual sales (
Connell 2019 ). This is when Les Wexner bought Victoria’s Secret and significantly expanded their assets
into shopping malls across the United States and abroad. The brand rapidly became one of the largest
and most valuable apparel brands worldwide ( Statista 2020a ). In 2016, the brand appeared for the first
time in the BrandZ™ Apparel Top 10, underlining the force of a well-defined brand ( BrandZ™ 2016 ).

Since the beginning, the brand’s image of sexuality and femininity has been defined by their “Angels” (
Figures 1 and 2 ). Victoria’s Secret has always taken pride in signature “Victoria’s Secret Angels”
marketing, which focuses on Caucasian, thin, and almost “perfect” looking models. These Angels have
establish a strong brand identity and have significantly contributed to the brand’s success. From a model
point of view, it is an exceptional achievement to be auditioned and obtain a place for the Victoria’s Secret
annual show ( Dambrosio 2018 ). Several celebrities have endorsed Victoria’s Secret: Jessica Hart, Karlie
Kloss, Jourdan Dunn, Doutzen Kroes, and Bella Hadid. Despite the fact that they used a few models who
were ethnically diverse, for example, Tyra Banks, Winnie Harlow, Chanel Iman, and Jasmine Tookes,
all their models conformed to the same narrow ideal beauty standards. In addition to this narrow ideal of
beauty portrayed by these “Angels,” in terms of product, Victoria’s Secret offers restricted product sizes
compared to other brands, for example, sizes 32A to 38E for bras ( Marci 2020 ). Throughout the 1990s
and 2000s, Victoria’s Secret, notably thanks to its Angels, was a successful and robust brand.

Figure 1. The 2018 Victoria’s Secret fashion show. Source: Getty Images.

3
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Consumer Behavior and Identity:
How Lack of Inclusivity Lost
Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown

Figure 2. Victoria’s Secret fashion show 2017, in Shanghai. Source: Getty Images.

4
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Consumer Behavior and Identity:
How Lack of Inclusivity Lost
Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown
The company started to face a sharp decline shortly after its “Perfect body” campaign in 2015 due to
severe backlash from consumers. This 2015 blacklash was followed by a deeper fall. While Victoria’s
Secret retained 31.7 percent of the US market in 2013, it was down to 24 percent in 2018 ( Vembar
2019 ). In 2018, Victoria’s Secret’s chief marketing officer, Ed Razek, triggered a public outcry when
he clamed in a Vogue interview to stand against plus-size models in the brand’s annual show and also
mentioned that the company’s annual fashion show was “featuring transsexuals because the show is
fantasy” ( Munzenrieder 2018 ). While a public apology followed, the fashion show that ensued saw a
huge drop in ratings ( Hanbury 2020a ). The 2018 annual show’s audience (3.27 million) was the smallest
since 2001 ( Reed 2019 ) and the 2019 annual show got cancelled. A few months after this Vogue
interview, Victoria’s Secret announced the closure of fifty-three stores in the United States ( Vembar 2019
). Moreover, customer complaints have increased regarding the product quality, and the brand resorted
to heavy discounting in 2019 to shift stock caused by the huge reduction in sales ( Hanbury 2020b ).
The following section will evaluate the challenges and opportunities arising from this shift in consumer
behavior preferences.

Business Problem
How does the lack of representation impact consumers?
Social norms have encouraged the dominant fashion ideal as the fashion industry’s ubiquitous portrayal
of underweight models and celebrities, along with digitally altered images that stray from reality creates
a social norm for the thin body ideal ( Grogan 2008 ). The dominant portrayal of the thin body ideal
in fashion media and the current fashion discourse, in general, has a significant impact on women
consumers. The lack of representation directly impacts consumers’ minds.

Indeed, there is a debate about the negative impact of the dominant fashion ideal on body image.
Looking at images of thin-ideal body types has been shown to induce a negative mood as well as body
dissatisfaction (the fact that one dislike their own body) in women ( Tiggemann et al. 2009 ). Comparing
oneself with the thin-ideal body models portrayed in the images can lead to an even greater negative
mood and body dissatisfaction ( Tiggemann et al. 2009 ). Adolescent girls and boys were shown to
compare themselves with media images and messages, and these comparison processes are used
for identity development ( Krayer et al. 2007 ). With increasing consumption of social media, exposure
to these images has become pervasive. Wolf (1991) talks about the toxicity of the ideal body and its
negative impact on body image and self-esteem. Comparing oneself to the thin-ideal body as well as the
exposure to the dominant fashion ideal have been shown to result in body image disturbances and eating
disorders ( Thompson and Stice 2001 ), negative mood, self-objectification (namely, considering one’s
body as an object), weight-related appearance anxiety, and body dissatisfaction ( Groesz et al. 2002 ;
Harper and Tiggemann 2008 ). Since body image is directly linked to psychosocial functioning ( Cash and
Fleming 2002 ) there is a negative impact on well-being.

Lingerie consumer preference shift


Mintel (2018) reports strong consumer demand for more representative underwear campaigns. The
shift in consumer mindsets toward a more inclusive environment in the industry has led to the birth of
numerous lingerie retailers with different unique selling points (USPs). The plus-size brand Lane Bryant
has echoed this consumer’s demand in their advertisements and campaign by launching “#ImNoAngel”
in 2015. This type of campaign has opened a space for new brand to develop based on consumer
demand, which is the case of Savage X Fenty. Savage X Fenty is one of the lingerie brands who has
successfully responded to consumer preferences. Indeed, this brand celebrates inclusivity in underwear

5
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Consumer Behavior and Identity:
How Lack of Inclusivity Lost
Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown
( Figures 3 and 4 ). Rihanna’s lingerie brand launched in 2018, and it offers a range of products that
are stylish, affordable, and more representative of the population ( Mintel 2018 ). In 2019, the brand
reached revenues of $150 million, according to the Wall Street Journal ( Chernova 2019 ; Groghegan
2019 ). Following up on her inclusive beauty line, Rihanna launched a lingerie brand intending to make
women feel included, empowered, and represented. Savage X Fenty continuously promotes body positive
messages, women of all ages, ethnicities, sizes, and diversity in all contexts. The Savage X Fenty fashion
show included models wearing hijabs, pregnant models, plus-size models, and models from different
ethnic backgrounds. Savage X Fenty also offers a wider range of sizes from 32A to 44DD compared to
Victoria’s Secret.

Figure 3. Savage X Fenty Autumn/Winter 2018 – Runway. Source: Getty Images.

6
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Consumer Behavior and Identity:
How Lack of Inclusivity Lost
Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown

Figure 4. Savage X Fenty Autumn/Winter 2018 – Runway. Source: Getty Images.

Rising e-commerce and social media influence


In addition to this change in consumer preferences, more consumers are shopping online. Indeed,
more than a third of lingerie’s consumers shop online ( Mintel 2018 ) and the average Britons now
spend 24 hours a week online; more than twice the time they did in 2011 ( Ofcom 2018 ). Technological
advancements, especially social media, have been so influential in changing consumer attitudes and
even purchase behaviors. Once again, Savage X Fenty is one of the brands that have successfully
adapted their marketing to consumer preferences. Rihanna is one of the most influential celebrities
today, with 78.1 million followers on Instagram alone. She is one of the most significant role models in
the industry with not just her accomplishments in the music industry but also the success of her beauty
line, her numerous awards, including nine Grammys, and most importantly her philanthropy. Rihanna
has brought a lot of attention and donations to her home country of Barbados; she has raised over
$1.75 million for a hospital, and started the Believe Foundation and the Clara Lionel Foundation for the
terminally ill and the education of young girls. She often uses her platform to raise money and awareness
for social and environmental issues and inspires her followers to do better ( Hall 2018 ). Rihanna’s
influence as a celebrity goes a long way in not only supporting people and including people of color,
different ethnicities, different body sizes, and people with disabilities but also for them to feel accepted.
Rihanna endorses and encourages people to feel comfortable in their own skin and gives them the
means to do that by providing products suited to their needs. It is imagined that by feeling included and
represented in the industry as well as by a role model, self-esteem and body image concerns would be
positively impacted, which would further enhance well-being.

7
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Consumer Behavior and Identity:
How Lack of Inclusivity Lost
Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown
Can Victoria’s Secret retake their crown?
Victoria’s Secret has recently attempted to change their brand image and brand marketing to better
respond to lingerie consumers’ demand for inclusivity. To do so, John Mehas, former chief of Ralph
Lauren Polo’s Club Monaco, has been hired as CEO of Victoria’s Secret Lingerie. Neil Saunders, the
Global Data Retail Managing Director, declared that:

John Mehas will bring in fresh thinking, which is much needed at Victoria’s Secret. His
past brand experience also means he will likely focus on what customers want and that
means he will listen and learn from the market. However, he has a really challenging job
in changing the culture of the company, which is very entrenched and out of step with
what consumers want. ( Howland 2018 )

Before Mehas’s appointment, Victoria’s Secret had attempted to enhance its inclusivity by recruiting
models with more ethnic diversity in their annual shows. However, these annual attempts have been
criticized due to cultural insensitivity ( Kocialkowska 2012 ; Matera 2018 ; Yiling Pan 2016 ). Mehas
has made some notable changes at Victoria’s Secret. The brand has recruited their first plus-size
model, Ali Tate Cutler, in 2019 ( Fraser 2019 ). Victoria’s Secret has recently launched a trans-inclusive
campaign ( Maurice 2020 ). Valentina Sampaio is their first openly transgender Victoria’s Secret Angels.
Unfortunately, this campaign launched a few days before the coronavirus pandemic and the brand
had to close its physical and online stores. Victoria’s Secret has just released, in March 2020, its most
inclusive campaign ( Glendinning 2020 ). The advertisement features plus-size models Candice Huffine
and Solange van Doorn (African American and Dutch background, respectively), trans model Valentina
Sampaio, and two mature models, Helena Christensen (fifty-one years old) and Daniela Pestova (forty-
nine years old).

Chantell Fenton, a senior lingerie editor at WGSN, underlined that “it’s no longer enough to think
of inclusivity as window dressing […] designing from and for a large variety of perspectives is an
imperative” ( O’Connor 2018 ). Whilst the brand has attempted to counter consumer discontent, is it too
little too late for Victoria’s Secret, or will the brand be able to retake its crown?

Business Questions
1. How did Victoria’s Secret build a strong brand?

2. What do you see as the key issues for the brand in 2020?

3. What can Victoria’s Secret learn from other inclusive lingerie brands such as Savage X Fenty?

4. As the brand director for Victoria’s Secret, what strategic action will you take to better respond to
consumers’ changing needs and expectations around diversity?

Extended Teaching Notes


Extended Teaching Notes are only available for authorized instructors. If you are an instructor, please
sign in with your personal account for access. If you cannot access the notes once signed in, please
contact us to authorize your account.

8
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Consumer Behavior and Identity:
How Lack of Inclusivity Lost
Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown
References and Further Reading

Abdallah, Loubna, Najwa Ayouche, and Elsa Perpiñá Subiñas. 2019. “Victoria’s Secret: Are Tables
Turning in Heaven?.” Sweden: LBMG Corporate Brand Management and Reputation-Masters
Case Series.

Bahadur, Nina. 2014. “Victoria’s Secret ‘Perfect Body’ Campaign Changes Slogan After
Backlash.” HuffPost, UK edition , November 6. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://
www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/victorias-secret-perfect-body-
campaign_n_6115728 .

Bishop, Katherine. 1986. "An Elegant Kids' Store Fails." New York Times , December 27. Accessed
December 9, 2012. https://www.nytimes.com/1986/12/27/business/an-elegant-
kids-store-fails.html .

BrandZ™. 2016. “GLOBAL 2016: Leisure and Sportswear Brands Drive Value Growth.” Accessed
September 5, 2020. https://www.brandz.com/articlenew/global-2016-leisure-
and-sportswear-brands-drive-value-growth-1243 .

Cash, Thomas and Emily C. Fleming. 2002. ““The Impact of Body Image Experiences: Development of
the Body Image Quality of Life Inventory”.” International Journal of Eating Disorders 31 (4):
455–60 .

Chang, Mahalia. 2017. “Do You Know Why Victoria’s Secret Is Named ‘Victoria’s Secret’?.” Elle Australia
, November 21. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://www.elle.com.au/culture/
victorias-secret-name-meaning-15098 .

Chernova, Yuliya. 2019. “Rihanna’s Lingerie Brand Savage X Fenty Receives $50 Million in Fresh
Funding.” Wall Street Journal , August 27. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://
www.wsj.com/articles/rihannas-lingerie-brand-savage-x-fenty-receives-50-
million-in-fresh-funding-11566923431 .

Connell, L. O. 2019. “Victoria’s Secret’s net sales worldwide from 2010 to 2018.” August 9. Accessed
10 January 2020. https://www.statista.com/statistics/255806/net-sales-of-
victorias-secret-worldwide/

Dambrosio, Christina. 2018. “‘What It’s Actually Like to Audition for the Victoria’s Secret Fashion
Show.” Insider , November. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://www.insider.com/
victorias-secret-fashion-show-audition-process-2018-11. [https://
www.insider.com/victorias-secret-fashion-show-audition-process-2018-11]

EuroMonitor. 2019. “Falling Angels: Victoria’s Secret Struggles in its Home Market.” October 1. Accessed
September 5, 2020. https://www.euromonitor.com/falling-angels-victorias-
secretstruggles-in-its-home-market/report#:~:text=Victoria's%20Secret
%20is%20struggling%2C%20particularly,for%20Victoria's%20Secret's
%20falling%20sales .

Falk Dahl, C. A., K. V. Reinertsen, I. L. Nesvold, S. D. Fosså, and A. A. Dahl. 2010. ““A Study of Body
Image in Long#Term Breast Cancer Survivors”.” Cancer 116 (15): 3549–57 .

9
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Consumer Behavior and Identity:
How Lack of Inclusivity Lost
Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown
Forbes-Bell, Shakaila, Aurora C. Bardey, and Patrick Fagan. 2020. ““Testing the Effect of
Consumer-Model Racial Congruency on Consumer Behavior”.” International Journal of
Market Research 62 (5): 599–614. https://doi.org/10.1177/1470785319865892 [http://
doi.org/10.1177/1470785319865892] .

Fraser, Kristopher. 2019. “Victoria’s Secret Hires First Plus-Size Model.” Fashion United , October 9.
Accessed September 5, 2020. https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/victoria-
s-secret-hires-first-plus-size-model/2019100945688 .

Glendinning, Maddison. 2020. “Victoria’s Secret Casts Extended Size and Trans Models for
Latest Campaign.” Fashion , March 20. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://
fashionmagazine.com/style/victorias-secret-casts-extended-size-and-
trans-models-for-latest-campaign/ .

Groesz, Lisa, Michael P. Levine, and Sarah K. Murnen. 2002. ““The Effect of Experimental Presentation
of Thin Media Images on Body Satisfaction: A Meta#Analytic Review”.” International Journal of
Eating Disorders 31 (1): 1–16 .

Grogan, Sarah. 2008. Body Image: Understanding Body Dissatisfaction in Men, Women, and Children .
New York: Routledge.

Groghegan, Jill. 2019. “Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty Raises $50m.” Drapers , August 29. Accessed
September 5, 2020. https://www.drapersonline.com/news/rihannas-savage-x-
fenty-raises-50m/7037342.article .

Hall, R. 2018. “Rihanna Should Be Everyone’s Role Model.” Medium , February 20. Accessed January
18, 2020. https://medium.com/@rachel_hall/rihanna-should-be-everyones-
role-model-6b265864a96d. [https://medium.com/@rachel_hall/rihanna-should-be-
everyones-role-model-6b265864a96d]

Hanbury, Mary. 2020a. “The Rise and Fall of Victoria’s Secret, America’s Biggest Lingerie
Retailer.” Business Insider , May 21. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://
www.businessinsider.com/victorias-secret-rise-and-fall-history-2019-5?
r=US&IR=T. [https://www.businessinsider.com/victorias-secret-rise-and-fall-history-2019-5?
r=US&IR=T]

Hanbury, Mary. 2020b. “Victoria’s Secret Is Taking Steps to Shed Its Much-Criticized Image.” Business
Insider , January 24. Accessed May 21, 2020. https://www.businessinsider.com/
victorias-secret-makes-changes-to-image-2019-8?r=US&IR=T .

Harper, B. and M. Tiggemann. 2008. ““The Effect of Thin Ideal Media Images on Women’s Self-
Objectification, Mood, and Body Image”.” Sex Roles 58: 649–57 .

Harrington, Cora. 2018. “The Good, The Bad, and The ‘Hmmm … ’ of Savage X Fenty, Rihanna’s
New Lingerie Line.” The Lingerie Addict , May 12. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://
www.thelingerieaddict.com/2018/05/savage-x-fenty-rihanna-lingerie-
review.html .

Howland, Daphne. 2018. “Victoria’s Secret’s Broken Angel Wings.” Retail Drive , November 20.
Accessed September 5, 2020. https://www.retaildive.com/news/victorias-
secrets-broken-angel-wings/542639/ .

10
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Consumer Behavior and Identity:
How Lack of Inclusivity Lost
Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown
Jantzen, C., P. Østergaard, and C. M. Vieira. 2006. ““Becoming a ‘Woman to the Backbone’: Lingerie
Consumption and the Experience of Feminine Identity”.” Journal of Consumer Culture 6 (2):
177–202 .

Kocialkowska, Kamilia. 2012. “Who’s Offended by Victoria’s Secret?.” New Statesman . Accessed May
27, 2020. https://www.newstatesman.com/cultural-capital/2012/11/whos-
offended-victorias-secret .

Krayer, Anne, D. K. Ingledew, and Ron Iphofen. 2007. ““Social Comparison and Body Image in
Adolescence: A Grounded Theory Approach”.” Health Education Research 23 (5): 892–903 .

Marci, Kayla. 2020. “The Lingerie Market Explained in 7 Charts.” Edited, February 12. Accessed
September 5, 2020. https://edited.com/resources/lingerie-market-2/. [https://
edited.com/resources/lingerie-market-2/]

Matera, Avery. 2018. “5 Times Victoria’s Secret Was Accused of Cultural Appropriation.” Teen Vogue
, November 7. Accessed May 27, 2020. https://www.teenvogue.com/gallery/
victorias-secret-fashion-show-cultural-appropriation .

Maurice, Emma 2020. “Victoria’s Secret Finally Launches Trans-inclusive Campaign as It Closes Down
All Its Stores Due to Coronavirus.” Pink News, March 20. Accessed September 5, 2020.
https://www.pinknews.co.uk/2020/03/20/victorias-secret-valentina-
sampaio-spring-campaign-inclusivity-trans-plus-size-models/ .

Mintel. 2018. “Underwear (incl. Loungewear/Nightwear).” UK, June.

Mintel. 2019a. “British Lifestyles: A New Understanding of Corporate Ethics.” UK, April.

Mintel. 2019b. “Womenswear.” UK, May.

Munzenrieder, Kyle. 2018. “Victoria’s Secret Exec Explains Why They Don’t Use Trans or Plus-
Size Models.” W Magazine , November 9. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://
www.wmagazine.com/story/victorias-secret-fashion-show-ed-razek-comments-
trans-plus-size-models/. [https://www.wmagazine.com/story/victorias-secret-fashion-
show-ed-razek-comments-trans-plus-size-models/]

O’Connor, Tamison. 2018. “The Race to Replace Victoria’s Secret.” Business of Fashion , November
20. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/
professional/inclusive-lingerie-startups-replace-victorias-secret.
[https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/professional/inclusive-lingerie-startups-replace-
victorias-secret]

Ofcom. 2018. “The Communications Market 2018.” August 2. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://
www.ofcom.org.uk/research-and-data/multi-sector-research/cmr/cmr-2018 .

Reed, Anika. 2019. “Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show Officially Cancelled for 2019.” USA Today ,
November 22. Acceesed September 5, 2020. https://eu.usatoday.com/story/
entertainment/tv/2019/11/21/victorias-secret-fashion-show-2019-
canceled/4260455002/ .

Rudd, Nancy and Sharron J. Lennon. 2000. ““Body Image and Appearance-Management Behaviors in
College Women”.” Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 18: 152–62 .

11
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Consumer Behavior and Identity:
How Lack of Inclusivity Lost
Victoria’s Secret Its Lingerie Crown
Savage X Fenty. 2020. “About Us.” January 6. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://
www.savagex.co.uk/aboutus .

Sengupta, Rhea. 2006. ““Reading Representations of Black, East Asian, and White Women in Magazines
for Adolescent Girls”.” Sex Roles 54 (11–12): 799–808 .

Statista. 2020a. “Lingerie Market Value Worldwide from 2018 to 2025 (in billion U.S. dollars).” May.

Statista. 2020b. “Victoria’s Secret – Statistics & Facts.” March.

Sutherland, Emily. 2019. “What’s Behind the All-Inclusive Lingerie Market?.” Drapers Online , July 31.
Accessed May 21, 2020. https://www.drapersonline.com/insight/analysis/
whats-behind-the-all-inclusive-lingerie-market .

Taylor, Charles and Ju Yung, Lee. 1994. ““Not in Vogue: Portrayals of Asian Americans in Magazine
Advertising”.” Journal of Public Policy & Marketing 13 (2): 239–45 .

Thompson, J. and Eric Stice. 2001. ““Thin-Ideal Internalisation: Mounting Evidence for a New Risk
Factor for Body-Image Disturbance and Eating Pathology”.” Current Directions in Psychological
Science 10 (5): 181–3 .

Tiggemann, Marika, Janet Polivy, and Duane Hargreaves. 2009. ““The Processing of Thin Ideals in
Fashion Magazines: A Source of Social Comparison or Fantasy?”.” Journal of Social and
Clinical Psychology 28 (1): 73–93 .

Tsaousi, Christiana. 2011. “Consuming Underwear: Fashioning Female Identity.” PhD thesis, University of
Leicester.

Van Elven, Marjorie. 2019. “Savage x Fenty, One Year Later: What’s Rihanna’s Impact on the
Lingerie Market?.” Fashion United , May 6. Accessed September 5, 2020. https://
fashionunited.uk/news/business/savage-x-fenty-one-year-later-what-
s-rihanna-s-impact-on-the-lingerie-market/2019050643017. [https://
fashionunited.uk/news/business/savage-x-fenty-one-year-later-what-s-rihanna-s-impact-on-the-
lingerie-market/2019050643017]

Vembar, Kaarin. 2019. “Top 5 Women’s Underwear Brands Losing Market Share.” Accessed September
5, 2020. https://www.retaildive.com/news/top-5-womens-underwear-brands-
losing-market-share/555374/. [https://www.retaildive.com/news/top-5-womens-
underwear-brands-losing-market-share/555374/]

Wolf, Naomi. 1991. The Beauty Myth: How Images of Women Are Used Against Women . London:
Vintage.

Yiling Pan. 2016. “How Chinese Consumers Reacted to Dragons on the Runway at the Victoria’s Secret
Fashion Show.” Jing Daily . Accessed May 27, 2020. https://jingdaily.com/how-
chinese-consumers-reacted-to-dragons-on-the-runway-at-the-victorias-
secret-fashion-show/ .

12
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning. The authors do not
intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The comments and interpretation presented are not
necessarily those of the company or its employees. This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. The
interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of the company in question or any of its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.

You might also like