Blue Shears: Bespoke Tailoring in

the Face of the COVID-19 Pandemic

Caroline Sue Lin Tan

Peter Gordon
2021-01-01

Abstract

This case focuses on Blue Shears, a bespoke tailoring brand based in Tokyo and the management
of both its client relationship and brand positioning in the face of the COVID-19 pandemic. Since its
inception, Blue Shears has gone on to carve a name for itself domestically and internationally in a niche
market segment consisting of bespoke suits that rival those in Savile Row, London. This case starts with
a brief introduction on the story behind the birth of Blue Shears; how the love for all things English and
fashion led Hiroshi Kubota, the founder and owner, to work for Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row, and how
the brand name itself represented his ode to tailoring and Chelsea Football Club. The case explores the
client profiles as well as the initiatives that have been undertaken to acquire and retain clients, including
Blue Shears’ online presence. The case then examines the challenges that Blue Shears is facing from the
impact of the global pandemic, COVID-19. Being a bespoke fashion brand, meeting clients is imperative
to the business as the relationship between a tailor and his client makes for a foundation of unshakable
bond and loyalty. However, with the social distancing brought about by COVID-19, how will this affect
Blue Shears and the bespoke tailoring world during the outbreak of COVID-19 and post-COVID-19?
What can be done to maintain the tailor–client relationship? Will this be an opportunity for the use of
technology such as 3D body scan and virtual reality (VR)/alternative reality (AR)? Students will explore
and assess the impact of the crisis on the tailoring business and client management. During the outbreak
of COVID-19, efficient online strategies as well as key measurements to manage both brand and client
relationships are discussed.

Table of Contents
Learning Objectives .............................................................................................................................. 1
Introduction .......................................................................................................................................... 2
Business Problem ................................................................................................................................ 9
Business Questions ............................................................................................................................ 10
Teaching Notes .................................................................................................................................. 10
References and Further Reading ........................................................................................................ 13
Definitions .......................................................................................................................................... 18

Learning Objectives
Upon completion of this case, students will be able to:

1
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
• Discuss the importance of developing an online presence in the bespoke fashion world.

• Explore the communication of brand positioning through social media.

• Describe and examine the challenges of customer relationship that Blue Shears faces during a global
health crisis.
• Explore the challenges in creating brand awareness and building customer relationships during a global
health crisis.

• Develop an integrated online marketing strategy (web and social media) for a bespoke fashion
company before and after a global health crisis.
• Explore the opportunities and viability for the adoption of technology such as VR/AR and 3D body
measurements during and after a global health crisis.

Introduction
Born in Tokyo, Hiroshi Kubota, an Anglophile with a passion for fashion, moved to the UK to pursue his
degree in business management. The decision to write his dissertation on the history of Savile Row and
the management of business changed his life. Upon graduation he got a job at Gieves & Hawkes, where
he first started as a cutter and acquired the art of tailoring. The cutter plays a vital function as they are the
one who meets the clients, takes their measurements, cuts the patterns, and manages the fittings.

After five years with Gieves & Hawkes in London, Kubota decided that it was time to go home. He
returned to Japan and worked as the head cutter for Gieves & Hawkes at their Tokyo shop for a few years
until they retrenched from Japan. It was then, in 2005, that Kubota decided to start his own bespoke
tailoring business. In deciding a name for his new business, Kubota settled on Blue Shears, shears that
symbolize tailoring and the color blue for Chelsea, his favorite soccer team.

Staying true to the tradition, essence, and fashion of Savile Row shaped Blue Shears’ vision. In keeping
with that, Kubota worked hard and focused on providing the experience and quintessence of Savile Row
to his clients. His studio showcases his impeccable taste, an exquisitely designed atelier with antique
caramel-colored leather armchairs and matching trunk-like table with bronze clasps. Royal blue velvet
curtains provide the regal ambiance of a high-end English tailoring shop.

2
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic

Figure 1. Blue Shears in Setagaya-ward, Tokyo.Courtesy Blue Shears.

Figure 2. Blue Shears Atelier in Setagaya-ward, Tokyo.Courtesy Blue Shears.

The bespoke tailoring market in Japan

The suit industry comprises of ready-to-wear (RTW), made-to-measure (MTM), and bespoke ( “2012 nen
no mens sutsu shiea” 2014 ; Brock 2019 ; Tan 2019 ). RTW (also known as off the rack) refers to suits
that are mass produced in standard sizes, while MTM is based on a basic pattern that is altered to fit,
and bespoke is made by hand completely customized according to the client ( “2012nen no mens sutsu
shiea” 2014 ; Tan 2019 ). The size of the market for bespoke is only 1 percent compared to RTW, which
dominates the market at 78 percent ( “2012nen no mens sutsu shiea” 2014 ). Bespoke tailoring was born

3
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
on Savile Row and, to this day, is still held in the highest regard for its heritage and expertise ( Anthony
2018 ; Crompton n.d. ). A bespoke suit is all about the highest quality craftsmanship and materials, the
perfect fit, extraordinary luxury, and the relationship between client and tailor ( Honey 2018 ; Schneider
2016 ; Stewart 2017 ). In fact, clients of bespoke will not opt for MTM or RTW ( Bearne 2010 ; Ross
2015 ).

Owing to its immaculate artistry and high prices, bespoke appeals to a completely different clientele from
RTW and MTM. The experience and relationship between tailor and client are also quintessential, as it
shapes the entire service experience ( Crompton 2012 ; Ross 2007 ). The bespoke clientele are people
who appreciate the tradition, art, luxury, and client–tailor relationship that bespoke offers ( Anthony 2018
; Cornacchia 2019 ; Federico-O’Murchu 2015 ; Honey 2019 ). Furthermore, the client understands that
there is a long wait involved (the average turnaround time for a bespoke suit is 50 hours or more with a
few fitting sessions), as they place higher value in the suit and the experience involved ( Anthony 2018 ;
Cvetkovic 2018 ; Honey 2019 ; Savile Row Bespoke Association n.d. ; Schneider 2016 ).

The bespoke suit market in Japan consists of tailors specializing in specific styles, for instance, Savile
Row, Italian, and Japanese. The majority of tailors specialize in the different Italian suiting styles of
Neapolitan, Florentine, Roman, and Milanese, for instance, Sartoria Ciccio. The competition tends to be
more intense amongst the Italian-style tailors versus Savile Row due to the higher demand for Italian
suits. This has led to more bespoke tailors specializing in the various Italian styles (H. Kubota, personal
communication, February 11, 2020). While competition is stiff amongst the Italian-style tailors, Savile Row
style has a handful of tailors such as Tailor and Cutter as well as Bespokeman. Most of them also have a
social media presence, with Instagram as the main platform (see Table 1 ).

The client profiles

Blue Shears has a mix of Japanese and Chinese clients: with 75 percent Japanese and 25 percent
Chinese. There are stark differences between Japanese and Chinese clients with regards to their age
groups and suit preferences. Approximately 60 percent of Japanese clients are in their fourties, a little
over 30 percent are in their thirties, and the balance are those over the age of sixty. In contrast, the
Chinese clients are of a much younger age group, with around 70 percent in their mid-twenties to mid-
thirties, and the remainder in their mid-thirties and over. When it comes to the preferred type of suit,
Japanese clients prefer business suits while Chinese clients just simply love to suit up, as they have an
affinity for suits for everyday use. The difference in preference reflects the background composition of the
clients as well. While Japanese clients tend to be professionals such as doctors, lawyers, and dentists as
well as business owners and those from high society, Chinese clients tend to be from the upper classes
and from richer family backgrounds (H. Kubota, personal communication, February 11, 2020).

Those who seek bespoke suits possess an immense appreciation for artistry and originality ( Cornacchia
2019 ; Federico-O’Murchu 2015 ). They value the artisanal finesse and craftsmanship that goes into suit
making. It is the combination of the exquisite feel of the fabric, impeccable workmanship, and immaculate
fit of the suit, that makes the bespoke suit a complete unique sensorial experience. While many take
pleasure in wearing bespoke suits, others relish owning and collecting them. This sets bespoke suit
consumption apart from RTW and MTM, as bespoke clients view the suits as something more than just
clothing ( Bespoke Experience 2016 ).

Technology disruption in fashion

The world of fashion has been experiencing disruption from technology ( Daswani 2019 ; Sheehan
2018 ). Various brands, ranging from well-known high street names such as adidas, Topshop, H&M,

4
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
and Zara have adopted AR and VR technology to enhance the customer experience and to engage
with customers, especially millennials ( McDonald 2018 ; Mileva 2019 ). In Japan, Zozosuit, a body
measurement suit app, was introduced in the hope of revolutionizing MTM fashion. A bodysuit covered
in white dot markers, worn by the customer in the comfort of their own home, simulates a 3D model on
an app, promising a perfect fit and ease of order for the customer ( Ryan 2018 ). Unfortunately, Zozosuit
was discontinued due to a lukewarm response from customers and, tellingly, complaints of ill-fitting suits
( Ando 2019 ). While MTM suits have embraced technologies, especially for fit (body measurement) and
cutting (laser cutting) ( Ando 2019 ; Cvetkovic 2018 ; Fox 2019 ) the Savile Row bespoke tailoring world
including Japan has been conservative in experimenting and adopting such technologies (H. Kubota,
personal communication, February 11, 2020; Ross 2015 ). The slowness in technology adoption for
bespoke tailoring lies in the core values of bespoke itself; personalization, service, and a relationship that
requires the human touch ( Cvetkovic 2018 ; Stewart 2017 ; West 2014 ). The craftsmanship involved
in creating a bespoke suit rests on the cutter, who is likened to an artist and plays a core role in creating
the perfect suit for the client ( Franke 2020 ; Meredith 2015 ). Hence, having a good relationship between
cutter and client is of utmost importance ( Crompton 2012 ; Cvetkovic 2018 ).

Figure 3. Hiroshi Kubota, founder and owner of Blue Shears.Courtesy Blue Shears.

5
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic

Figure 4. Hiroshi Kubota working on a suit at the Blue Shears Academy.Courtesy Blue Shears.

Figure 5. Client fitting at Blue Shears Atelier.Courtesy Blue Shears.

6
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic

Figure 6. A client’s suit.Courtesy Blue Shears.

Blue Shears sales and marketing Out of Tokyo Initiative: Trunk

shows
Japan
Blue Shears holds trunk shows in Osaka for a duration of two days, six times a year. The venue, being
either the Intercontinental Osaka or Hilton Osaka, is decided based on the number of client reservations
received, with the former selected only when there are many reservations. On average, Kubota meets two
clients per day. The total spend per client is not determined by the occupation or age, as clients prioritize
and place high value on the total combination of fabric, style, and craftsmanship. The turnaround time for
clients in Osaka is similar to that of Tokyo, which ranges from two to six months depending on the design
complexity as well as the client’s schedule (for fittings) (H. Kubota, personal communication, February 11,
2020).

China
The Great East Japan earthquake that struck the Tohoku region in 2011, saw Japan’s tourism industry
take a huge hit with the number of inbound tourists plunging by 50 percent ( Fukada 2011 ). Prior to the
earthquake, clients from Hong Kong would fly to Tokyo to get their suits made at Blue Shears. When
the earthquake resulted in the Fukushima nuclear plant disaster, clients no longer visited Tokyo due to
radiation concerns. This propelled Kubota to start holding trunk shows at the Mandarin Oriental in Hong
Kong. Business in China grew steadily through word-of-mouth (WOM), which led to Kubota’s decision
to organize trunk shows at the Intercontinental Hotel in both Shanghai and Beijing. The frequency of

7
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
shows in China is not fixed based on client requests. However, each show runs for a duration of three
days. In terms of number of clients, Kubota sees an average of six clients per day (H. Kubota, personal
communication, February 11, 2020).

Online presence
Blue Shears does not engage in paid advertising campaigns due to the high costs involved. Business
growth has consistently been generated from the existing positive brand reputation, WOM, and the
publicity and exposure from being featured in the media such as magazines, newspapers, and TV
programs on men’s fashion and the bespoke tailoring world, ranging from domestic to global media such
as The Rake and the Wall Street Journal. These channels also contribute to creating and growing brand
awareness as well as acquiring new clients.

However, in terms of online, Blue Shears has a rather sparse presence with just a website and an
Instagram account as shown in Table 1 . As Blue Shears do not currently have any online objectives
and goals in place, there are no measurements to track any indicators of success for its website or social
channels.

Table 1. The Online Presence.

Bespoke Brand Style Homepage Instagram* Facebook

Number of Number of
Followers Posts
http://
Blue Shears Savile Row blueshears.com 938 150 N/A
http://
Bespokeman Savile Row bespokeman.jp 649 639 Available
https://
tailorandcutter.jp/
Tailor & Cutter Savile Row index.html 1,501 212 N/A
http://
Sartora Ciccio Italian www.ciccio.co.jp 7,072 223 N/A

Source: Author. Note: As of June 5, 2020.

Official company website

Blue Shears’ homepage is fairly simple and contains the information as follows:

1. Profile: A brief write-up on Kubota’s background.

2. About: A general price list (indicating only the starting prices).

3. Contact: Contact information.

4. News: News/Announcements.

5. Media: Media appearances.

6. Photos: Linked to Blue Shears’ Instagram account.

8
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
7. Academy: Information regarding Blue Shears Academy, which offers suit-making courses.

8. Shop: Address, contact numbers, and maps for Blue Shears and Blue Shears Academy.

Official Instagram account

Blue Shears uses its Instagram account to showcase pictures of suits and to advertise the trunk shows
and media appearances. Some clients post pictures of their newly completed suits on their own accounts
and tag the shots with #blueshears.

Figure 7. Blue Shear’s Instagram.

Business Problem
On April 7, 2020, Japan’s Prime Minister, Shinzo Abe declared a month-long state of emergency over the
COVID-19 pandemic. The declaration, which covered Tokyo, Osaka, and five other prefectures , was
made to curb the spike in the number of cases. After a week, on April 16, the declaration was extended
nationwide to cover all forty-seven prefectures. This was scheduled to end on May 6.

The Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) was first identified in Wuhan, China, in early December 2019.
While this infectious disease was initially confined to mainly Wuhan, Hubei province, within a month
there were cases reported outside of China. By January, some countries decided to close their borders
and impose travel bans to contain the spread of the virus. Unfortunately, the world continued to witness
an exponential growth in the number of infections, eventually spreading to more than one hundred
countries, and tens of thousands of cases before the World Health Organisation (WHO), declared it a
global pandemic on March 11, 2020. As of April 27, the total number of infections worldwide stood at a
little more than 3 million with 207, 265 deaths (“ Covid-19 Coronavirus Pandemic” 2020 ).

9
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
Some countries have resorted to full lockdown in a bid to control the spread of the virus, bringing one-
third of the world population into a lockdown situation ( Business Insider 2020 ). While Japan’s state
of emergency did not constitute a strict lockdown, nonessential businesses were requested to close,
employees were encouraged to work from home, people were urged to cancel nonessential outings and
to stay home, and social distancing was encouraged. While some establishments have chosen to ignore
the government’s plea, Blue Shears decided to comply with the government’s request and closed from
April 7 to May 6. However, some clients requested to meet in person, enabled by Kubota wearing a mask
at all times. He maintained communication with his clients via email, text messaging, and telephone calls.

While the state of emergency was initially set to end on May 6, it was extended to the end of May for
Tokyo and a few other prefectures due to the rising number of cases. This call to continue practicing
social distancing has affected Blue Shears, since meeting clients face to face is vital for business. As well
as being unable to meet his clients, measurements, fabric selection, and fittings cannot take place. While
the traditional values of bespoke tailoring have made it a challenge to adopt fit technology, the pandemic
has created an opportune moment for the bespoke world to consider embracing such technology.
However, client relationships need to be managed carefully to ensure that the bond between tailor and
client still remains strong. Could such technology meet the expectations of the client and at the same time
deliver an equal level of craftsmanship and precision that the client seeks? Should Blue Shears consider
exploring the adoption of technology and change its client service management?

Blue Shears has until now not placed much importance on its website and social media presence,
particularly Instagram. Moreover, Kubota does not have an online communication or content strategy,
specifically centered on web and social media to optimize engagement. For example, he continues to
post as and when he has the time to do so. During the COVID-19 crisis, Blue Shears has not accelerated
the development of its online channels as Kubota is focused on offline communication and serving his
clients. In a post-COVID business environment, what online strategies should Blue Shears pursue? How
will his clients’ expectations and behaviors change, and how might the business need to adapt to remain
relevant, competitive, and successful in the niche Japanese tailoring market in the future?

Business Questions
• How do the contents posted on both Blue Shear’s website and social media align with the brand’s
positioning?

• Analyze Blue Shears’ existing website and social media strategy in terms of effectiveness in managing
communication and relationships with customers, both existing and potential.

• How does the COVID-19 crisis affect Blue Shears’ customers? What are the areas of concern that their
customers face?

• Develop an online marketing strategy for Blue Shears during the crisis. What types of content would be
suitable to ensure customer engagement?

• Should Blue Shears adopt technology such as 3D body measurements, AR/VR to deal with the
challenge of social distancing? Should it be used post-crisis as well?

• What steps should Blue Shears take once the crisis eases?

Teaching Notes
This case was developed for a 90-minute class discussion that focuses on branding (brand positioning,
brand awareness, brand loyalty), fashion marketing, consumer behavior, social media marketing, or even

10
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
integrated marketing communications in the face of a global crisis. The time can be adjusted based on
the needs of the class as well as the class dynamics. The students can either assume the role of Hiroshi
Kubota, founder and owner of Blue Shears, or as an external consultant in deciding how best to manage
communications during the crisis to continuously create brand awareness and also client loyalty and
retention. This case can also be used to supplement courses that introduce and examine the world of
bespoke tailoring.

The tutor is advised to start the class by asking the students if anyone has had the experience of having
bespoke clothing made, and getting those who have to discuss their experiences, highlighting the pros
and cons of bespoke fashion. If nobody has had bespoke clothing made, get the class to discuss the
scope of bespoke versus ready-to-wear fashion (RTW being the extreme opposite from bespoke). The
class discussion can then move in to the Business Questions.

Links to Blue Shears’ website and Instagram

http://blueshears.com/ (accessed September 2, 2020)

https://www.instagram.com/blueshears/ (accessed September 2, 2020)

1. How do the contents posted on both Blue Shear’s website and social media align with the brand’s
positioning?

Students are encouraged to first determine the positioning statement before the decision of whether
the contents do indeed reflect the brand positioning clearly or otherwise is decided. The positioning
statement should be based on the following basic format:

For [target segment], Blue Shears provides [frame of reference] that [most important
claim] because [single most important support/reason to believe].

Ensure that the students focus on the Savile Row experience , which sets it apart from other bespoke
tailoring atmospheres and experience even in the UK. Being the birthplace of bespoke tailoring, Savile
Row boasts service like no other, the heritage and the knowledge and skills of the tailors, makes it a
unique, unrivaled experience. Readings from Bannerman ( 2019 ), Thomas ( n.d. ), and Wells ( n.d. )
can be used to give the students a glimpse of the Savile Row experience. Lead the class to debate if
the contents on both website and Instagram clearly conveys the brand positioning. The tutor can also
break down the positioning statement and analyze each aspect (target segment, frame of reference,
most important claim, and reason to believe) for Blue Shears and see if they are communicated clearly
over their online platforms.

2. Analyze Blue Shears’ existing website and social media strategy in terms of effectiveness in managing
communication and relationships with clients, both existing and potential.

Divide the discussion into two parts: existing and potential clients. Then start with the website and
ask the students to analyze both the website and Instagram account. Let the students debate the
communication aspect, and the relationship forming and maintaining from the contents. Then let the
students rate the overall effectiveness of the company website and Instagram accounts. Push the
students to provide reasons for their answers.

3. How does the current COVID-19 crisis affect Blue Shears’ clients? What are the areas of concern that
the clients would be facing?

11
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
This question explores customer psychology and behavior especially in terms of their needs, emotional
and mental states as well as changes in behaviors during the COVID-19 pandemic, and the state of
emergency (where people are encouraged to stay home and also practice social distancing). People
are confused and scared, even angry, and there is a huge increase in mental health issues (due to
feelings such as anxiety, uncertainty, isolation, depression, and fear). In a broader sense, clients will
face disruption in their daily lives, both work and personal. While some clients did request meetings
during the state of emergency, not all clients were able to go for fittings or even order new suits (as
they were not able to meet and discuss or select fabrics). It differed according to how the client viewed
the pandemic and the risks associated with not practicing social distancing and opting to go out. Get
the class to brainstorm the different types of clients and their perceptions and areas of concern as
well as the levels of concern (from very high to very low). The instructor can also introduce research
findings that indicate that consumers look for beauty and comfort in times of crisis (for example, the
psychology behind the Lipstick Effect. Refer to Brown [ 2020 ] and Hill et al. [ 2012 ]). How could this
play to Blue Shears’ advantage?

4. Develop a content strategy for web and social media for Blue Shears during the crisis. What types of
content would be suitable to ensure customer engagement?

Taking the findings from (3), list out what type of content could address the needs and concerns of the
clients and map them against (1) to ensure that they are aligned with the brand positioning. Please
note that not all the concerns can be addressed, prioritize them accordingly in terms of feasibility and
impact (to the client and Blue Shears). Then get the class to also look at the findings from (2) and
debate what to do with the existing contents. Discuss how the existing online content can be further
improved, or should they be revamped completely. Students should also be asked how the content can
best engage the clients, both potential and existing. Ensure students place importance on keeping the
content engaging and interactive since communication is paramount during this crisis (when people
feel isolated and alone). Also debate if all content has to be focused on suits or whether there should
be content unrelated to suits. Which one would create engagement and develop a bond between Blue
Shears and its clients better?

5. Should Blue Shears adopt technology such as 3D body measurements and AR/VR to deal with the
challenge from the practice of social distancing? Should it be used post-crisis as well?

Get the students to discuss the use of technology: AR/VR, computer-generated imagery (CGI) models,
and 3D body scanning technologies currently used by high street fashion brands and luxury brands
such as Zara, Next, Topshop, Gucci, Dior, and Boss. Debate the pros and cons of the adoption of
technology and how this has changed the face of fashion consumption. Based on the readings in the
References and Further Reading list at the end of this case on Zozosuit ( Ando 2019 ; Fox 2019 ;
Ryan 2018 ), present the 3D body measurement suit introduced by Zozo. Let the students discuss the
various problems that led to the demise of Zozosuit. Direct the discussion toward bespoke tailoring.
Suggest students read Bhattacharyya’s ( 2018 ) article on how 3D body scans are to aid and not
replace tailors. Get students to distinguish the differences in values sought by consumers when opting
for high street, luxury, and bespoke. Also, discuss the differences in customer profile among the
segments (high street, luxury, and bespoke). One of the core values of bespoke is the relationship
between tailor and client and the sense of a “personal touch,” the conversations during measurements
and fittings that fosters the bond between them, in a way similar to that between a hair stylist and their
customer, or a luxury watch retailer and their customer.

12
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
Ask the students if technology could help Blue Shears deal with the challenges of social distancing.
One key point to raise is that while the use of technology might be an option due to social distancing,
clients could still request to meet in person (note: the state of emergency declared in Japan carries
no penalty if people do not stay indoors or practice social distancing). Also, with all the stress from
social distancing and remote working arrangements, clients will crave more for offline social interaction
and the option of meeting face to face once the crisis is brought under control. Introduce how Patek
Philippe has agreed to let its authorized dealers sell its timepieces online for a temporary period
only, during the COVID-19 crisis. Patek Philippe places the utmost value on the client relationships
cultivated when clients purchase watches at boutiques. Let the students debate whether bespoke
tailoring should adopt technology post-crisis as swell.
6. What steps should Blue Shear take once this global health crisis eases in terms of social media
strategy?

Start with a poll. Ask the students what Blue Shears should do once the public healthcare crisis eases.
Should Blue Shears go back to less of a focus on its online presence? What changes should be made?
It is important to stress the importance of consistency and continuity. Using Kieztmann, Hermkens,
McCarthy, and Silvestre’s ( 2011 ) Honeycomb framework, discuss how it can be used to help create
a strategy for Blue Shears. While clients move back to face-to-face meetings, it is still important to
maintain an online presence (to continuously communicate the brand positioning and also to create
awareness). Discuss possible content management plans, including frequency of updates.

Key takeaways
Students should be able to obtain the following key takeaways at the end of class:

1. The importance of communicating brand positioning online.

2. The importance of relationship building via online platforms.

3. Content type and management are vital in conveying the correct message as well as creating brand
awareness and strengthening relationships between brands and consumers/customers.

4. Different content achieves different objectives.

5. The adoption of technology in bespoke tailoring is challenging and dependent upon the values sought
by the client.

6. Measurements are important and should be aligned with the goals/objectives of each strategy.

References and Further Reading

“2012nen no mens sutsu shiea” (2012 Men’s suit share). 2014. Bespoke News , February 13. Accessed
June 10, 2020. http://bespokenews.co.jp/2014/02/13/2012############/ .

Ando, Ritsuko. 2019. “Japan’s Zozo Cuts Outlook, Blames Failed Measurement-Taking
Zozosuit.” Business of Fashion , January 31. Accessed May 5, 2020. https://
www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/update-1-japans-zozo-
cuts-outlook-blames-failed-measurement-taking-zozosuit .

13
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
Ang, K. 2012. ““A Touch Of English Eccentricity In Tokyo”.” [Blog] Wall Street Journal , July 26.
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Anthony, Paul. 2018. “Bespoke Suits: Best Guide To Buying A Suit Including Cost, Process & Benefits.”
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Avery, Jill and Sunil Gupta. 2014. Marketing Reading: Brand Positioning . Boston, MA: Harvard Business
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Bannerman, Sarah 2019. “How Savile Row Suits Found Favor with Monarchs and Millennials.” Culture
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united-kingdom/england/london/articles/why-londons-savile-row-will-
always-be-the-best-place-to-buy-a-suit/. [https://theculturetrip.com/europe/united-
kingdom/england/london/articles/why-londons-savile-row-will-always-be-the-best-place-to-buy-a-
suit/]

Bearne, Suzanne. 2010. “High Street Wants Its Cut of Bespoke Suit Market.” Drapers Record , June 19.
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Bhattacharyya, Suman. 2018. “For Now, 3D Body Scans Are a Tool to Help, Not Replace Tailors.”
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Brock. 2019. “Bespoke vs. Made-To-Measure vs. Off the Rack: What’s the Difference?.” The Modest
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Chaffey, Dave. 2020. “Does Your Website and Social Media Pages Have a Coronovirus COVID-19
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Cornacchia, Nicola. 2019. “Is Bespoke Worth It?.” Permanent Style , September 4. Accessed June 6,
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Crompton, Simon. n.d. “The Complete Guide to Savile Row.” Fashionbeans . Accessed November 2,
2018. https://www.fashionbeans.com/article/complete-guide-to-savile-row/
.

14
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
Crompton, Simon. 2012. “How Bespoke Tailors Work.” Permanent Style , March 7. Accessed June
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Danziger, Pamela 2020. “After Panic Buying Subsides, Will Coronavirus Make Lasting Changes
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psychology/#c65686977e8a. [https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2020/03/08/first-
comes-panic-buying-but-afterwards-will-the-coronavirus-leave-lasting-changes-to-consumer-
psychology/#c65686977e8a]

Daswani, Saisangeeth. 2019. “How Luxury Brands Are Using CGI Models, AR and VR to Attract Online-
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magazines/style/luxury/article/3026893/how-luxury-brands-are-using-cgi-models-ar-and-vr-attract]

David Lance. 2016. “The Bespoke Experience: Why It’s More than Just a Suit.” [Blog] David Lance New
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Euronews. 2020. “UN Refuses To Call Coronavirus Outbreak a Pandemic, Scientists

Disagree.” Euronews , March 2. Accessed on March 5, 2020. https://
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Federico-O’Murchu, Linda. 2015. “How Far Do Men Go for a Custom Suit? Around the World.” CNBC,
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Fox, Chris. 2019. “Zozo Quits Europe after Zozosuit Flop.” BBC, April 25. Accessed May 5, 2020.
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Franke, Marlene. 2020. “What Does A Cutter Do?.” American Bespoke Tailoring Academy, January 13.
Accessed June 6, 2020. https://the-abta.com/2020/01/13/what-a-cutter-does/.
[https://the-abta.com/2020/01/13/what-a-cutter-does/]

Fukada, Takahiro. 2011. “Restoring Foreign Tourism Tall Order.” Japan Times , August 23. Accessed
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Gupta, Sunil and Joseph Davin. 2015. Digital Marketing . Boston: Harvard Business School Publishing.

15
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
Hill, Sarah, Christopher D. Rodeheffer, Vladas Griskevicius, Kristina Durante, and Andrew Edward White.
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Honey, Jessica. 2018. “Difference Between Ready-to-Wear, Made-to-Measure and Bespoke Men’s
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“Japan to Declare Nationwide State of Emergency as Virus Spreads.” 2020. Japan Times , April
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16
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
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17
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
 Blue Shears: Bespoke
Tailoring in the Face of
the COVID-19 Pandemic
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Definitions
Client Customers of bespoke products/services.

Prefecture A political region, administrative area, or local government area under the
authority of a governor.

18
The authors wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion and independent learning.
The authors do not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a situation. The
comments and interpretation presented are not necessarily those of the company or its employees.
© Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.