draped collar linen

pattern
jacket by tina lewis
Project photo on page 42;
instructions on page 89

Reviving the vintage,

open-seam treatment called fagoting,
this cropped jacket of handkerchief
linen has a flattering draped collar
and cuffed long sleeves that are edged
with decorative stitching. Next stop,
garden party at the Grantham’s.

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page 1 of 30
 cutting layout
44"/54"
main
2-18

selvedges

Linen Jacket
44” main Front (A)
Sleeve (F)

2-6 2 3/8 yds

8-10 2 1/2 yds
12-16 2 5/8 yds
18 2 2/3 yds
selvedges
Front (A)

)
(E
d
an
Side Front (B)
Front (A)

rB
lla
Co
Cuff (G)

Cuff (G)

Sleeve (F)
Side Back (C) Front (A)

Back (D)

fold selvedges

selvedges

Linen Jacket
54” main
Front (A)
Sleeve (F)
14 2 3/8 yds
16-18 2 1/2 yds

Front (A)
Front (A)
selvedges

Front (A)
Side Front (B)
Cuff (G)
Cuff (G)

)
(E
d
an
rB
lla
Co

Side Back (C) Sleeve (F)

Back (D)

fold selvedges

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 cutting layout
20"/58
Linen Jacket
interfacing
20” interfacing
2-18
2-4 2 1/2 yds
selvedges 6-14 2 5/8 yds

Side Back (C)

Cuff (G)
Cuff (G)
selvedges
Side Front (B) Sleeve (F)
Sleeve (F)
Side Front (B)
Back (D) Side Back (C)

fold
selvedges

selvedges

Side Back (C) Side Back (C)

selvedges
Side Front (B)
Sleeve (F) Sleeve (F)

Cuff (G)
Cuff (G)
Back (D) Side Front (B)

fold selvedges Linen Jacket

20” interfacing

16-18 3 yds
Back (D)

Sleeve (F)

selvedges
fold

Linen Jacket
58” interfacing

2-10 1 yd
Side Front (B)

Cuff (G) 12-18 1 1 /8 yds

Side Back (C)

Cuff (G)

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 cutting layout
44"/58"
lining
2-18

selvedges
Linen Jacket
44” lining

Side Back (C) 14-16 1 2/3 yds

Sleeve (F)

Side Front (B)

fold
Back (D)
Back (D)

Sleeve (F)
Sleeve (F)

selvedges
fold
selvedges
fold

Side Front (B)

Side Back (C)

Linen Jacket
44” lining
Side Front (B)

Side Back (C)

2-12 1 1/8 yds

Linen Jacket
58” lining

2-12 1 yd
14-18 1 1 /8 yds

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page 4 of 30
 RIGHT FRONT RIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
cut 2 XXxx

XL

L
pattern

M
XS
S
M

S
L

XS
XL

Getting Started Basic techniques and terms

you’ll need to know for the pattern you have
XL

downloaded.
L

Assembling Full-Size Pattern Printout Pattern Symbols + Markings

XL
1 |
S

L
When prepar-
cut on fold

M
ing to print the pdf, Button + buttonhole
XS

S
make sure that you are placement marks Solid lines indi-

XS
printing it at 100% and cate buttonholes. A large open circle is
that there is no scaling. the button symbol and shows placement.
Check the settings for
page scaling (should be Test Square XS
S Cutting lines Multisize
“None”) and check the
2" 2" M
patterns have different cutting
preview to make sure L
XL cut on fold lines for each size.
that you will be printing
at full size. Make sure
that the box labeled Place on fold bracket This is
“Auto-Rotate and a grainline marking with arrows pointing
XS
Center” is unchecked to the edge of the pattern. Place on the
S
M (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS
fold of the fabric so that SKIRT
your finished
L RIGHT FRONT
XL another pdf reader, check for similar settings). piece will be twice the size of the pattern
|
2 To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, piece,cut 2 XXxx
without adding a seam.

XL
check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square

L
should be 2" × 2". Grainline The double-ended arrow

M
|
3 To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted should be parallel to the lengthwise
margin around each page.
grain or fold unless specifically marked
|
4 The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be
ASYMMETRICAL
1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up FOLDS
the rows andSKIRT
XL

is numbered match the

diagonal.
dotted lines together so they overlap.
RIGHT FRONT Tape the pages together.
L

Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern
cut 2 XXxx XS
Notches Notches are triangle-
S

is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and fol- S
M
XS

low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern. L shaped symbols used for accurately
XL
matching seams. Pieces to be joined will
Layout, Marking + Cutting Guidelines have corresponding notches.
1 |
Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace cut on fold
the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto Darts Dashed lines and dots mark
the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel.
darts. The dashed lines show where the
|
2 If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting stitching will be, and the dot shows the
cut two
on of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half,
fold XL
position of the dart point (signaling the
selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this

L
point, at the end of the dart, where your

M
S

technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the

stitching should end).

S
XS

project instructions if you are unsure.

|
3 Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together pattern dots Filled circles indicate
as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be
that a mark needs to be made (often on
cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold.
the right side of the fabric) for placement
|
4 Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric of elements such as a pocket or a dart
with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless
point. Mark by punching through the pat-
a crosswise or bias grainline is present.
tern paper only, then mark on the fabric
cut on fold
|
5 Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric
through the hole.
unless otherwise noted.
|
6 Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project
Slash Marks A dashed line (some-
instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to
cut out of your fabric and interfacing. times appearing with pattern dots)
indicates an area to be slashed. Further
|
7 Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use
instructions for making the slash will be
pins to secure the corners as needed.
included in the pattern instructions.
|
8 Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.

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page 5 of 30
 draped collar
linen
jacket

1a 1b 1c 1d 1e 1f

LINEN JACKET
CUFF (G)
cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
cut 2 intefacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

LINEN JACKET
SLEEVE (F)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

2a 2b 2c 2d 2e 2f
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18

LINEN JACKET LINEN JACKET

SIDE FRONT (B) FRONT (A)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
LINEN JACKET
COLLAR BAND (E)

cut 1 interfacing
cut 1 main
2

center front
4
6
8

3a 3b 3c 3d 10
12
14
3e 3f
16
18

cut here for main

cut here for lining

cut here for main

cut here for lining
cut here for lining
cut here for main

cut 1 interfacing on fold

4a 4b 4c 4d 4e 4f
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

cut 1 lining on fold

cut 1 main on fold

LINEN JACKET
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

BACK (D)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

LINEN JACKET
SIDE BACK (C)
cut here for main
cut here for lining

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page 6 of 27
1a
1b

LINEN JACKET
SLEEVE (F)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
1c

LINEN JACKET
CUFF (G)
cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
cut 2 intefacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
1d
1e
1f
2a
 cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

2b
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18
2c

LINEN JACKET
SIDE FRONT (B)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 r
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 r
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,1
 2d

CKET
T (B)
ut 1 reverse) cut 4
ut 1 reverse)
1, cut 1 reverse)
4,16,18

2
4
6
 2e

LINEN JACKET
FRONT (A)
cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
center
 2f

LINEN JACKET
COLLAR BAND (E)
cut 1 main
cur 1 interfacing
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
3a
3b

cut here for main

cut here for lining
3c

cut here for m

ain
cut here for li
ning

cu
cu
 4
6
8

3d 10
12
14
16
18
nter front
c
3e
3f
 cut here for main
cut here for lining
4a
 LINEN JACKET
SIDE BACK (C)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
4b
cut here for main
cut here for lining
4c
4d
 LINEN JACKET
BACK (D)
cut 1 main on fold
cut 1 lining on fold
cut 1 interfacing on fold
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
4e
4f