Back to the basics: Haircare 101

Sometimes you just have to get back to the basics, simple changes can make a HUGE difference!

HAIR TYPING-
Usually this is a subject I avoid, but it’s spoken about so much that there are particulars that need to
be covered. The tighter the coil, the more consistently
moisture is needed. The tighter the coil, the more easily it will loc. Hair type helps you determine
style possibilities, but not always what products you should be using.
In short:
Type 1= Straight Hair (There are very few people in this category, often its Asian or Latino
hair)
Type 2 (A B C)= Wavy Hair
Type 3 (A B C)= Curly Hair
Type 4 (A B C)= Coiled or Kinky Hair

The letters, A, B, & C, indicate the tightness of the curl or wave, With the exception of 4B, 4B is kinky
hair, it does not have a coil; 4b is more of a tight zigzag.

TYPE 1 AND TYPE 2 DON’T USUALLY NEED AS MUCH MOISTURE SUPPLEMENTED INTO
THE ROUTINE, TYPES 3 & 4 REQUIRE YOU TO SUPPLEMENT MORE MOISTURE. This is
because curly hair defies gravity, and the natural oil your scalp produces doesn’t slide down the
shaft of the hair as easily.

TEXTURE-
Hair texture is commonly confused, this is NOT about silkiness VS roughness. Texture is NOT about
how tight your curls are. Texture is about the diameter of the strands. Texture determines how much
and what type of
products to use. For more in depth information on texture, click here:
https://youtu.be/d3M4YOD6UyY

DENSITY-
This is the amount of hair per square inch, The higher the density, the more product, or heavier
product is typically needed. To make it simpler, more strands = more product. ​Density​ describes the
amount of trees in your forest, ​texture​ describes whether those trees are skinny, medium, or fat.

POROSITY-
Porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb and retain moisture, porosity can be tricky, and it’s a lot to
tackle. For additional information, I have videos on youtube:
www.YouTube.com/c/GlamFam

*All about porosity:​ ​https://youtu.be/Nc09lpcZhno

*How to care for Low porosity:​ ​https://youtu.be/-JOLKLlMqG4
*How to care for High porosity Hair:​ ​https://youtu.be/Vixtdd3UssE
 PRE-SHAMPOO​-
Brush or comb out the hair to loosen product build up & remove excess hair. *This helps to prevent
matting, especially when coming down from braided styles.
You can lightly mist the hair for a bit more slip, if need be. Here is a great product to help with the
pre shampoo detangling:​ ​https://amzn.to/2Zsw8Ts
* For excessively flaky scalps, it helps to apply shampoo directly to the scalp, massage it in and
allow it to sit for a few minutes.

SHAMPOO​-
When selecting shampoo, sulfate free shampoos are best, typically. ​Consider quality shampoo an
INVESTMENT, not just an expense.
Always use a shampoo appropriate for your hair type, even quality shampoo can dry out your hair if
it's not formulated for your hair type.
When it comes to shampoo, usually you get what you pay for. SHAMPOO WITH WARM WATER,
NOT HOT WATER. This helps prevent excessive knotting and tangling, and prevents you from
drying the scalp out.

*Moisturizing shampoos, MY FAVES!

*​Giovanni 2 chic- ​Ultra Moist Shampoo (OTC)​ ​https://amzn.to/2TvmbAH
*​KeraCare​- Hydrating Detangling Shampoo (Professional)​ ​https://amzn.to/36mW6Jo
*​Pureology​- Moisturizing or Smoothing lines (Professional but most expensive)
https://amzn.to/2WS9UIN

*For fine, flat straighter hair that needs more volume, here are my favorite Volumizing Shampoos
Giovanni 2 chic- Ultra Volume shampoo (OTC):​ ​https://amzn.to/2XedoUU
MoroccanOil Volumizing shampoo (Professional)​ ​https://amzn.to/2WSNMhm
Pureology Volumizing shampoo (Professional but most expensive)​ ​https://amzn.to/3gavks9
Periodically sulfate based shampoos can be used, they can be beneficial for removing buildup from
the hair. I also like them if you have been using heavy oils, waxes, or grease, etc.

CONDITIONING​-
select a conditioner without mineral oil, petrolatum, If you choose to use a conditioner with these,
you may need to use a clarifying shampoo/treatment more regularly, to rid the hair of build up, which
can lead to prevention of moisture absorption.
*Hair with a natural curl pattern (and naturally sandy brown colored hair) tends to be moisture
deficient, that being said, curls and high porosity hair thrive in moisture.
Conditioner should be left on the hair a minimum of 3-5 minutes.
*protein isn't needed as often, and I usually recommend that people get protein done by a
professional.
THINK OF YOUR HAIR AS A SPAGHETTI NOODLE! A spaghetti noodle that is dry is brittle and
easily broken, your hair is the same. I spaghetti noodle that has too much moisture is mushy and
tears easy, again, your hair is the same when the protein balance is low.

*ALWAYS rinse conditioner with cool water (It doesn’t have to be frigid or ice cold, just cool. This
helps close the cuticles down to lock in more moisture, and increase comb ability and shine.
*Conditioners, MY FAVES!
*​Giovanni 2chic- ​Ultra Moist Conditioner (OTC):​ ​https://amzn.to/36jSx6A
*​Pureology​- Moisturizing and Smoothing lines (PRO but most expensive):
https://amzn.to/2WWM3I5
*Framesi Moisture Rich Mask (PRO):​ ​https://amzn.to/2Tui1Js

COWASHING- ​This is not meant to replace shampooing, but is excellent for raising moisture
balance, especially for High Porosity hair and people who sweat in their head.
**For more information on cowashing, check this video out:​ ​https://youtu.be/m7JozL4q5Xw

* For fine, limp flat hair, here are my favorite volumizing conditioners:
*Giovanni 2 Chic- Ultra volume conditioner (OTC):​ ​https://amzn.to/3gfnRIc
*MoroccanOil Volumizing conditioner (PRO):​ ​https://amzn.to/36m65yw
*Pureology Volumizing conditioner (PRO but most expensive):​ ​https://amzn.to/36sYNt2

STYLING- BRUSHING, ETC.​-

Stay away from products with mineral oil and petrolatum for the scalp, using them on the hair as a
final seal is ok, but make sure you have already moisturized.Avoid products with SD alcohol,
Isopropyl alcohol, they are very drying to the hair. Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are great
sealants and can even add shine and slip, but they are sealants, not moisturizers. *Natural, plant
derived oils are my preference for locking moisture in the hair and scalp, or sealing in moisture, but
some people prefer using grease, especially those with 4C coils, it helps prevent knotting and
slipping.
You HAVE to read ingredients. ​So many people only want to read the front of the container, but
the ingredients will help you narrow down quality products.
 Glycerin can be an excellent moisturizer and is found in most curl activators, so can aloe vera,
avocado, or even honey. Most of these are humectants, a humectant pulls moisture out of the air,
and into the hair.
*You can have up to 5 textures in a head of natural hair, and the tighter the coil pattern, or the
more coarse the hair is, the heavier moisturizer/ oil you'll need.
*​A TRUE moisturizer is water based​.
Heat free styling provides optimal health, and when heat styling 450 degrees should NEVER be your
setting. I ALSO DON’T RECOMMEND PUTTING HEAT ON YOUR HAIR DAILY.
* My fave brushes are Denman paddle brushes, and for those who are extremely tender headed, the
Wet Brush, paddle brush.

MAINTENANCE-
Wrapping is ​crucial. ​ Always use 100% silk or satin such as head wraps, bonnets, pillowcases, or
sheets.
Unless you are Loc'd, I usually recommend shampooing the hair at least once every 2 weeks (once
a week is ideal). Shampooing with quality product actually increases your moisture balance. If you
sweat in your head, you may need to shampoo more frequently.\, or incorporate cowashing, this is
because the salt in your sweat is drying.

OTHER TIPS FOR HEALTHIER HAIR AND SCALP-

1) Drink water, stay hydrated!

2) You are what you eat, so make healthy choices!
3) Trim split ends regularly. (I have tip videos online to help you identify if you have split ends:
https://youtu.be/tYLAQ-RvWqE​ )
4) Deep condition (MOISTURE) regularly, if unsure, consult a professional for protein. (Deep
conditioning can vary for differing porosities)
5) Think of your hair as a person, love him/her and he/she will love you back!
6) No metal clasps on headbands or hair ties.
7) If you often wear braided styles, allow your hair to rest between styles (2 styles, then rest 1 week).
Braids should never be excessively tight or uncomfortable.

MY FAVORITE PRODUCTS ARE LISTED HERE IN A MORE COMPREHENSIVE MANNER:

https://www.amazon.com/shop/whoseesthis
 HELPFUL HAIRCARE AND BEAUTY VIDEOS CAN BE FOUND AT
HTTP://WWW.YOUTUBE.COM/C/GLAMFAM
FOR MORE IN DEPTH DETAIL ON ALL THESE TOPICS AND MORE (AS WELL AS
TUTORIALS).