X-Ray105 Protected

Making the Right Choice :: OC & CCR Mixed Teams :: JJ-CCR :: Dray van Beeck Portfolio
Wrecks
Jutland to
Øresund
Freshwater Dive
GLOBAL EDITION
June 2021
Number 105
Slåensø
Danish
Diving &
Dining
Italy
Plinio III
Russia
Teletskoye
S C A N D I N A V I A Contributors’ Picks
Denmark
1 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021
My Most
Unusual Dive
COVER PHOTO BY RENÉ BRUNO NIELSEN
contents
DIRECTORY
X-RAY MAG is published by AquaScope Media ApS
Copenhagen, Denmark
www.xray-mag.com
PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF IN MEMORIAM

Peter Symes Michael Symes, M.Sc, Senior Editor Diver inspects 19th century cannon on the Cannon Wreck, Øresund, Denmark. Photo by René B. Andersen
Editor@xray-mag.com Barb Roy, Associate Editor
PUBLISHER, MANAGING EDITOR SECTION EDITORS

& CREATIVE DIRECTOR Andrey Bizyukin, Ph.D. - Features
Gunild Symes Larry Cohen - Photo & Video
Gunild@xray-mag.com Catherine GS Lim - News, Books
Michael Menduno - Tech
ASSOCIATE EDITORS Ila France Porcher - Sharks
Scott Bennett, Toronto Rico Besserdich - Photo & Video
Scott@xray-mag.com
Catherine GS Lim, Singapore COLUMNISTS
Cat@xray-mag.com Matt Jevon - Opinions
Michael Menduno, Berkeley Steve Lewis - Opinions
Michael@xray-mag.com Gareth Lock - Training
Ila France Porcher - Shark Tales
Russia - Moscow Mark Powell - Tech Talk
Andrey Bizyukin, PhD Simon Pridmore - Opinions
Andrey@xray-mag.com Lawson Wood - UW Photo
Svetlana Murashkina, PhD
Svetlana@xray-mag.com CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE
Andrea “Murdock” Alpini
ASSISTANT EDITORS René B. Andersen
Rosemary E Lunn, London Dray van Beeck
Roz@xray-mag.com Scott Bennett
Don Silcock, Sydney + Bali Alice Chong
Don@xray-mag.com Larry Cohen
Lureen Ferretti
USA Frankie Grant
Larry Cohen, New York City Tine Hindal
Larry@xray-mag.com David Holland
Jennifer Idol
ADVERTISING Kate Jonker
ASIA-PACIFIC Lars Stenholt Kirkegaard
Juliette Myers, Sydney Tatyana Klimenko
Juliette@xray-mag.com Morten Bjørn Larsen
Catherine GS Lim
UNITED KINGDOM Matthew Meier
Rosemary E Lunn, London Brandi Mueller
10 18 31 37 40
Roz@xray-mag.com René Bruno Nielsen
USA & INTERNATIONAL

Mikkel Noe
Simon Pridmore
The Nature of Diving Diving & Dining Denmark's Wrecks: Marine Archaeology: M/F Ærøsund: From
plus...
Matthew Meier, San Diego Jesper Risløv EDITORIAL 3
Matt@xray-mag.com Gary Rose in Denmark in Denmark A Selection Discoveries in Denmark Ferry to Artificial Reef NEWS 4
Michael Rothschild
Don Silcock
by P. Symes & J. Risløv by Scott Bennett by Peter Symes by Peter Symes by Peter Symes EQUIPMENT NEWS 80
Contacts page: Xray-Mag.com Gunild Symes BOOKS & MEDIA 84
Peter Symes
Olga Torrey 42 48 52 56 57 MARINE MAMMALS 85
Martin Voeller Denmark's Denmark's Slåensø: Marine Life Dive Industry in Denmark Russia's Lake Teletskoye SHARK TALES 87
Roman Vorobyev
Beth Watson
Øresund & Isefjord Freshwater Diving Danish Waters
in The Story of JJ-CCR by Roman Vorobyev &
by Morten Bjørn Larsen by Peter Symes by Peter Symes by Peter Symes Tatyana Klimenko
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Wreck Rap: My Most Unusual Making the Tech Talk: Mixed Teams Portfolio:
COVER PHOTO: Lumpsucker, Denmark, Plinio III Wreck & Unexpected Dive: Right Choice of OC & CCR Divers Dray van Beeck
by René Bruno Nielsen by Andrea Alpini Contributors' Picks by Simon Pridmore by Michael Rothschild edited by G. Symes
2 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 Amsterdam Barcelona Cape Town Copenhagen Kuala Lumpur London Moscow Orlando Oslo Paris Singapore Tacoma Toronto Vancouver Warsaw
editorial
TRAVEL WITH DAN.
NO MATTER WHERE YOU GO, TAKE
DAN TRAVEL INSURANCE WITH YOU. Coming full circle
DAN.org/Travel Over the 18 years we have pub- I certainly now brace myself That is surely true for this coun-
lished this magazine, we have for complaints from the locals try where I had my first dive
covered much of the planet— about why this or that location some 33 years ago and where I
except for the place where I was not even given a men- hope to have many more dives
actually got certified and had tion, why some spectacular before I hang up my flippers.
my first hundred dives or so, the wreck was passed over, or why
place I know better than any a region with unique dive sites I suppose it is also true for many
other place in the world. That is, was not included. other locations across the
until this issue. planet, which makes diving an
And they would be mostly endeavour that never runs dry
That country, in which we right. There is so much more of something new and interest-
are still based, is Denmark— to this country and the diving ing to try, and which keeps on
the southernmost part of here than we can reasonably giving time and time again.
Scandinavia. cover in one issue, even with an
extended theme feature. So, For more insight into the div-
It is quite a small country, yet please consider it just a primer. ing in Denmark from a fel-
this theme issue on Denmark is low denizen, please read the
the longest we have ever put Once you really start explor- welcoming letter from Jesper
together. ing a location and get to know Risløv, President of the Danish
it, more options and sites to Sportdiving Federation, on the
Still, it feels like it is not long explore seem to emerge, pro- first page (p.10) of the Denmark
enough, that many interesting viding more than a lifetime’s theme.
locations, sights and facts that worth of experiences under the
should be contained in these surface. — Peter Symes
pages have not been included. Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Travel Protection Plans are administered by Customized Services Administrators, Inc., CA Lic. No. 0821931, located in San Diego, CA and doing business as CSA Travel Protection
and Insurance Services and Generali Global Assistance & Insurance Services. Plans are available to residents of the U.S. but may not be available in all jurisdictions. Travel retailers
receive payment from CSA related to the offer of travel insurance. Benefits and services are described on a general basis; certain conditions and exclusions apply.
Travel insurance coverages are underwritten by: Generali U.S. Branch, New York, NY; NAIC # 11231. Generali US Branch operates under the following names:
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3 X-RAY MAG : 105 : 2021 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO
KYLE TAYLOR / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY 2.0
Corals on the
Great Barrier Reef
in Australia
from the deep
Edited by
Catherine GS Lim
NEWS
Deciphering the corals' scents
At the Great Barrier Reef, a team Analytical chemistry Surprised at the large amount,
of researchers from the Climate After collecting the samples at the coauthor Dr Jean-Baptiste Raine
Great Barrier Reef, Dr Lawson (from the said in a press release that the
Change Cluster at University Climate Change Cluster at University of number was “just going to keep
of Technology Sydney have Technology Sydney) and her team used growing, the more we look into
employed advanced analytical advanced analytical chemistry tech- it and the more species we start
chemistry techniques to detect niques to characterise and measure the to investigate.
volatile chemicals released by the corals. Most of the chemicals iden-
and measure the volatile chemi- The findings of this study, which was tified were associated with
cals corals release. published in the Global Change Biology climate regulation, so it was
journal, focused on two common reef- possible that a change in the
Last December, marine biologist Caitlin building corals—Acropora intermedia chemical composition would
Lawson made her way to the Great and Pocillopora damicornis—and the affect climatic factors like the
Barrier Reef. Like countless others, she effect heat stress (read climate change) local cloud cover.
was there for the annual spawning of had on their gaseous emissions.
the corals. However, she was armed, “Our results provide the first insights Coral stress
not with expensive photographic equip- into the range of gases produced by In terms of modelling climac-
ment, but small plastic containers rigged reef-building corals and highlight a tic processes, Lawson specu-
with tubing. diverse suite of compounds that may lates that the chemicals being
Her mission? To collect the gaseous play potentially important—but previ- released into the atmosphere
chemicals released by the corals (as ously unrecognised—roles in maintaining by the corals may be a sig-
well as their algal and bacterial sym- healthy reef functioning,” said Lawson. nificant source that have been
bionts) before, during and after the overlooked.
spawning event. Heat stress And because the presence
During heat stress experiments in which of volatile chemicals has been
Volatile gasses the water temperature was increased by known to be an indicator of illness in some signalling that could be happening likely that bleaching will occur again in
All organisms release volatile gases and five percent, the abundance and chemi- animals, it is possible that the mix of chem- between different species of corals, or early 2021—it is even more important
the mix of these gasses emitted is an indi- cal diversity of the corals' gas emissions icals released by corals may be used as a whether they have certain smells that that we understand coral emissions as
cation of the organisms’ health and can fell significantly; this occurred across all measure of coral stress and disease. they'll release that might attract grazing they may prove to be a key tool in our
even influence how it copes with stress. the coral species in the study, illustrating fish if there's too much algae. Is there a efforts to monitor and conserve coral
This process has been much studied in the corals’ compromised ability to cope Coral communication certain smell that indicates corals are reefs,” she added. 
the case in terrestrial organisms, but not with increasing temperatures. Lawson was also keen to explore the more vulnerable?” SOURCES: UTS, HAKAI MAGAZINE, GLOBAL
so in underwater organisms. Until now. In addition, a total of 87 volatile chemi- chemicals as a means of communica- “With the increasing frequency of CHANGE BIOLOGY JOURNAL
cals were detected from the two species. tion: “I get really excited about the heat stress events—and it is looking
news
Edited by
Scott Bennett
FRAGMENTS OF HOPE
Environmental project restores Belize reefs
When Hurricane Iris struck going so far away for the corals,” dorsed by the Belize Fisheries De-
southern Belize in 2001, the said Carne. “They thought that partment, the organization devel-
these corals were common, like oped a coral restoration training
country's corals were deci- sand. But after two weeks of map- course, which has certified over 70
mated. Yet within a decade, ping, I found that they were not Belizeans to date.
a radical restoration project everywhere anymore.” She discov- As the only organization practis-
brought the reef back to life. ered coral cover encompassed ing reef restoration in Belize, the
less than 6% of the national park group cooperates closely with the
When Lisa Carne first visited area, compared to 15 to 28% be- government and is now working
Laughing Bird Caye National fore the storm. on a joint national restoration plan
Park in 1994, the reef was vibrant Despite a series of subsequent for coral replenishment.
and bursting with life, abundant bleaching events, Carne noticed After 15 years of effort, the coral
with fish, corals, lobsters, crabs, pockets of the reef appeared reefs at Laughing Bird Caye Na-
sponges and sea turtles. After the relatively healthy. As the initial tional Park are once again teem-
hurricane, it was a scene of deso- 2006 transplant survival was high, ing with life. To date, over 85,000
lation, the seabed a swathe of she identified surviving corals and corals have been planted, and fish
rubble dotted with a few surviving started reseeding the reefs with life is once again abundant. Long-
corals. Hurricane Iris not only killed them in 2010. term monitoring revealed 89% sur-
corals but uprooted their structure, vived after 14 years, much higher
making recovery more difficult. Accelerated growth than usual after restoration.
For five years after Iris, the reef Whereas Carne’s team previ- Yet despite government restric-
lay bare. Carne, having moved ously trimmed corals into 10cm tions, unchecked coastal develop-
from California as a research as- pieces, grew them in a nursery ment has decimated some of the
sistant at the Smithsonian’s field until they reached around 30cm country’s mangrove cayes. “It's
station at Carrie Bow Cay, wanted and planted them in the reef, this hard to get up every morning and
to do something about it. Her idea breakthrough allowed acceler- do what you do when there are
was to plant corals, but years were ated growth rates for certain coral bigger decisions being made that
spent trying to convince potential species and bypassed nursery time you may not control,” said Carne.
funders. In 2006, the US-listed Carib- for others completely. Techniques created by Fragments
bean acroporid corals (the Carib- Fishermen and tour guides from of Hope have been successfully
bean’s fasted growing and primary nearby Placencia village were the implemented in Colombia, Jamaica
reef-building coral) as endangered. first to notice the success of trans- and the Caribbean island of St
A local funder approved Carne's planting efforts and offered to help Barts. “When we first started maybe
proposal to restore the reef. with the planting. In 2013, Carne one or two people were doing reef
Carne began by transplanting registered a non-profit community- restoration,” said Carne. “But nowa-
19 elkhorn coral fragments from based organization in Belize called days, everybody's doing it. I joke
the main barrier reef 31km away. Fragments of Hope and opened that it’s like yoga now,” she added.
“People were asking me why I'm a US branch two years later. En-  SOURCE: FRAGMENTS OF HOPE
wreck
rap A sunny winter
day on Lake
Mezzola, a
pond located
on the north-
ern end of
Lake Como.
Below the
surface, the
water con-
ditions are
gloomy.
Text and photos by

Archival photo research by
Lake Como is famous world-
wide for its beauty, the charm of
its ancient villas, stunning lake
views, iconic village of Bellagio
and romantic setting. Under
its surface, Lake Como hides
hundreds of hidden treasures:
ancient wrecks and incredible
stories. One of those wrecks
lies in the northern corner of the
Plinio III Wreck

lake. Here, there is a small pond
called Lake Mezzola, whose flat
mirror surface hides one of the
most beautiful steamships ever
to have sunk along the Alps.
— Early 20th Century Steamship in Lake Como, Italy
This historic steamship, which sank during a The elegance and refinement of the ball- In August 2008, Plinio III received protec-
winter storm over a decade ago, was named room and first-class areas of the ship were tion under the Italian Ministry of Culture.
Plinio III and was launched in 1903. It was the well known to the local aristocracy, a mix- One year later, on 9 December, during a
MUSEO BARCA LARIANA / PUBLIC DOMAIN
most elegant ship ever seen on the lake. ture of British and Italian nobility. On 28 May foggy and rainy winter day, the steamship
In 1902, the Compagnia Navigazione 1927, the steamships Plinio III and Piroscafo disappeared in the shadows. For a decade,
Laghi del Lario (Sailing Company of Lake XXVIII Ottobre were used to escort the main the wreck of this beautiful steamship has
Como) commissioned the Swiss shipyard steamship Piroscafo Savoia, which was been covered in mystery and mud, lying on
Escher Wyss in Zurich to build a steamship hosting the King of Italy, His Royal Highness the bottom of Lake Mezzola.
with a gross tonnage of 750 tons, a length Vittorio Emanuele III, on a lake cruise. With Nowadays, it rests at a depth of 45m. Very
of 53.16m and a width of 11.5m. One year a cruising speed of 29km/h (or 15.6 knots), cold waters close to 4°C, extremely low vis-
later, in the spring of 1903, the steamship Plinio III was the fastest steamship on Lake ibility on the lake bottom (which may vary
was launched as Plinio III on Lake Como. Como at the time. from 0.5m to 2m max), as well as ropes,
A rare historical photo of the Plinio III sailing on Lake Como in Italy
The wreck's GPS points
wreck and distance from shore
rap (in metres). Drawing by

Renato Oliva Plinio III
MUSEO BARCA LARIANA / PUBLIC DOMAIN
Archival drawings, original plans and perspectives, of the Plinio III
cables and a large quantity of mud, make river emptying into the lake, with its mud was needed. The visibility at the bottom
this wreck dive very risky but also beautiful. and stones, had permanently changed the was very poor, but it was the best we had
situation of the wreck at the lake bottom. encountered in all the dives we had done
Finding the wreck on the wreck.
There is no shot line from the surface, nor Diving the wreck
from the shore to the wreck, so the first On the day of our first dive, we lowered a Descending to the wreck
job is finding it! Trust me, searching for the magnet, attached to a guideline, down Our descent to the wreck was very slow.
Plinio III is not an easy task—it is more an to the wreck. It was wintertime, and the We did not know exactly where we were
act of faith. weather had turned cold, with air tempera- going. We supposed we were on the star-
The wreck is hidden under the mud, tures dropping below zero. It was sleeting board side in the middle of the steamship,
somewhere in the middle of Lake Mezzola; and, on top of that, the wind was blowing but we were not sure. While descending,
you cannot see it, but you can sense it is and freezing our faces. We were cold, and we could not even see our hands. And our
there. One must believe it exists. So, to find the search from the surface was taking fins? “Did we even have legs?” I thought,
the wreck and prepare to dive on it, I spent longer than expected; we spent around laughing to myself.
two years researching its history, location, two hours in the water. Finally, our grappling My buddy and I kept very close to one
ship plans and archival photos. hook found the top of the wreck. another, with Fabrizio staying right beside
I visited the lake several times to find the After double-checking GPS coordinates, my arm. The water was so dark, and at the
wreck, with no success, until one day, with we decided to prepare a downline for div- same time, so milky that it was impossible to
a couple of my friends, Fabrizio Pinna and ing. When everything was ready, Fabrizio see our dive lights. Three minutes later, we
Renato Oliva, we found it. We were not the and I started descending along the shot approached the wreck. We could not see
first ones to dive the wreck, but a massive line until we encountered the starboard side it, so we ended up bumping right into it.
© RENATO OLIVA
flood had mixed up the cards, so-to-speak, of the Plinio III. Renato decided to stay at “It’s real!” I thought. “All the words I had
so we were playing a different game. The the surface in case an emergency rescue whispered in my head about the legendary This 3D model shows the wreck of the Plinio III on the bottom of Lake Mezzola
and its distance from the shore (in metres). Drawing by Renato Oliva
wreck
rap
A detail of the
anchor chain on
the port side of
the wreck (right);
An amazing view
of the elegant
bow of the Plinio III
(below)
fins in slow motion so as not to stir
PUT YOUR MILITARY SERVICE TO SERVICE!

up the silt lying on the wreck. We
encountered a bollard and, a few
metres farther, a hawsehole, with
its steel chain. The anchor was hid- Did you know that you can use your G.I. Bill® to pay for many of our scuba courses? We offer a wide selection of programs.
den somewhere in the dark muddy Start your mission today by learning to dive,
dive building skills,
skills helping the environment,
environment or becoming a dive professional!
professional
bottom of Lake Mezzola.
At the end of our moon walk, we For more information, please contact your local NAUI VA approved testing center or contact us
met the razor edge of the bow. to find the one closest to you by emailing armedforces@naui.org or calling 1 (800) 553-6284.
“Wow!” I was breathless. It was a
pure design belonging to nine-
teenth-century naval architecture.
Awesome. We took our hands off
of the wreck just for a minute, as
we swam backwards a few metres OPEN WATER SCUBA DIVER | FREEDIVER | INSTRUCTOR | MASTER DIVER |& SO MUCH MORE
in order to admire this piece of art,
sunken in the gloomy lake.
Port side
We moved ahead to the oppo-
site side, the port side. When we
reached the centre of the steam-
Plinio III were true!” I kept an eye photos and drawings I had done ship, we found the name “PLINIO”
DISCOVER MORE.
on our bottom time and fixed the now helped in recognising the on its side. It was not painted;
depth and time in my mind. We parts of the wreck I was touching the sign was engraved in metal.
moved ahead to the bow. We and could not see. The feeling I Marvelous. Being in front of it, look-
were indeed on the starboard had as I was diving—rather, touching at the ship’s name, gave me
side of the wreck, close to the ing—the “glorious” Plinio III wreck, a great, positive feeling, in spite of With more than 80% of the ocean unexplored, this is your chance to discover the hidden
bridge, as I had suspected when I was the sense that it was a fine the darkness that surrounded us. depths of never before seen places. Uncover some of the world’s most hidden treasure and go
was still at the surface. symbol of a gilded age. Fabrizio and I exchanged glances,
The exploration began. We and we decided to move a bit where no diver has gone before. Find your way with NAUI by visiting NAUI.org.
could only clearly see around Starboard side deeper. We knew that, below the
70cm ahead, before things began We moved slowly along the star- sign, we would find the first of the + 1 813.628.6284 NAUIHQ@NAUI.ORG @NAUIWorldwide
to get hazy. The study of archival board side of the deck, moving our two steam paddlewheels that
wreck
rap Plinio III
Location of the
wreck on Google
Maps (right).
Drawing by Andrea
Murdock Alpini; The
ship's name “PLINIO”
appears in the milky
water (far right);
The parapets of the
stern section of the
Plinio III (below)
or less, were left in the rounded the bridge and the funnel. We studies, and research on wrecks, mines
distance to our start- pointed our dive lights into a window. and caves. Diving uncommon spots
ing point. We moved Eternal nothingness. It was too dark to and arranging dive expeditions, he
forward slowly. Across see anything inside. shoots footage of wrecks and writes
the main deck, in When our bottom time struck the thir- presentations for conferences and
the middle of the tieth minute, we quickly switched our articles for dive publications and
ship, there was the focus to our decompression procedure. websites such as ScubaPortal, Relitti in
entrance to the ball- Once we were back at the surface, still Liguria, Nautica Report, ScubaZone,
room. Getting inside breathing from our regulators, we shout- Ocean4Future, InDepth and X-Ray Mag.
would be a dream, ed with joy. Today, we had reached the He is also a member of the Historical
but it could quickly wreck, and we enjoyed the great adven- Diving Society Italy (HDSI), and holds
turn into a nightmare ture together as a team. a master’s degree in architecture and
for us. Bad visibility an MBA in economics of arts. He is
here was an obstacle; Afterthoughts the founder of PHY Diving Equipment
we had to make our Diving the Plinio III is an act of faith, an (phidiving.com), which specialises in
choices carefully. incredible place of mind, where one’s undergarments for diving, as well as
emotions and the blood running in one’s drysuits, hoods and tools for cave and
Command deck veins merge into an illusionistic moment. wreck diving. Among other wrecks,
Again, we decided The experience is unreal!  he has dived the Scapa Flow wrecks
to decline the invita- heritage, Malin Head’s wrecks and the
tion, and moved on. The team’s sponsors include PHY Diving HMHS Britannic (-118m), Fw58C (-110m),
For the second time, Equipment, Scubatec, Tecnodive SS Nina (-115m), Motonave Viminale
comprised the core of the engine propul- soft layer of 70 to 100cm of mud was just we reached the paddlewheel blades Booster, Big Blue Lights, TEMC Gas (-108m), SS Marsala (-105m), UJ-2208
sion system of the ship. waiting to fall down. We had to move and the ship’s name “PLINIO” engraved Analyzers, and Museo Barca Lariana. (-108m) and the submarine U-455
slowly. The wreck was damaged, and on the starboard side of the hull. Five (-119m)—always on an open circuit
The stern some spikes arose from the deck. The minutes of bottom time remained. We Based in Italy, author Andrea “Murdock” system. His first book (in Italian), Deep
A series of portholes ran to our left. The Plinio III appeared not be very friendly to had already spent 25 minutes on the Alpini is a technical diving instructor Blue, about scuba diving exploration
stern was partially collapsed, especially its visitors here. wreck; five more, and our time would for TDI, CMAS and ADIP. Diving since was released in January 2020 (see
the blue tented awning above it. This We rounded the stern and were once be up. Fabrizio and I decided to visit 1997, he is a professional diver focused amazon.it). For more information on
part of the wreck was very fragmented again on the starboard side of this glori- the command deck on the upper level. on advanced trimix deep diving, log courses, expeditions and dived wrecks,
and precarious. On the blue awning, a ous steamship. Twenty-five metres, more Here, the same ropes and cables sur- dives with open circuit, decompression please visit: wreckdiving.it.
Welcome
to Denmark
We have more than 7,300km quite a few dive centres that Fortunately, we have some very
(4,536mi) of coastline here in offer gear rental and will help good spots that are reachable
Denmark, so no matter where you go diving. from the coast. On a good day,
you are in our country, the sea is there are often many people at
not far away. Please be advised that the these sites, and Danish divers are
water temperatures around normally quite happy and more
We have it all—well, almost Denmark are on the cold side. than willing to help you find a
everything—when it comes to In the summer, we might reach good diving experience when
diving in and around Denmark. 20°C at the surface, and some you are here.
We have dives from the shore people may immediately say
almost everywhere, and we have that this is too cold. So, if you are going to Denmark
a huge number of wrecks dat- —whether it is for a holiday,
ing back more than 200 years. Indeed, this is what we often hear studying, working or something
It is even still possible to see from Danish divers who get their else—then bring your dive gear,
some remains left from the wars dive certifications in crystal-clear join a local club and get some
against Britain that took place in tropical waters. They ask, “Can great experiences underwater
the early 1800s. We have wrecks you dive in Denmark?” Yes, you as well as above. Divers are nor-
from WWI and WWII, and many most certainly can, and it’s amaz- mally a very social lot, and it is
of them are still in rather good ing! Especially when the visibility rare that a good dive—or a day
condition. We also have vessels is good, the sea is calm, and the of diving—is not ended with a
that were sunk to create artificial sun is shining, there is a very good nice chat over a cup of coffee,
reefs, after having been pre- chance that you will see a wide or maybe something stronger.
pared and made safe for divers. range of diverse marine life. But the most important thing
is that we all come out of the
We have more than 150 local Even though we have a lot of water safe and sound—and if
dive clubs, and most of them coastline, it is not always the the visibility is bad on one day,
not only support scuba diving case that we can shore dive in then we just go and try again on
but also spearfishing, freediving certain places along the coast another day.
(apnea), underwater rugby and where there are some restric-
snorkel training for kids—there are tions in place, either by nature Welcome to Denmark. We hope
many activities, all driven by vol- itself, or because of harbours, or that you will have a great time
unteers and people with a great other installations, and not least here—stay safe and enjoy the
passion for all that goes on under because of the water depth. As diving.
the water’s surface. you probably know, we have
no mountains in Denmark—only Best regards,
I am quite confident that if you a couple of hills—and it is the
bring your own gear and con- same for the surrounding coast- Jesper Risløv
tact a local dive club, they will line. It is flat, and one must often President of the
help you with good advice on walk or swim some distance, Danish Sportdiving
where to go, and maybe even in very shallow waters, Federation
bring you along on their next to get to a depth in
dive trip. However, if you and which one can call it
your dive buddy are here for a dive. That is why
a few days and just want to many dives are
dive on your own, we also have done by boat.
MIKKEL NOE
Denmark
The Nature of Diving in
Text and photos by Peter Symes
Much more than the Little Mermaid, Hans Christian Andersen & Lego...
Along the coasts and in the Most parts of the seabed are soft, past the Danish straits and into the Baltic, dive centres will coordinate or have
seas around Denmark, a wide composed of sand or mud, but there are the salinity drops and steadily decreases, deals with nearby hotels, holiday homes
also extensive areas with a hard bottom eventually transitioning into brackish or summerhouse rental bureaus. And fine
variety of species and types of made of gravel and pebbles, and what water with low biodiversity. dining, including 25 Michelin-star restau-
habitats can be found. Most of are locally called stone reefs, as well as The Danish archipelago is a convolut- rants, can be found not far away in cities
the Danish waters are shallow, some unique “bubbling reefs,” which are ed mosaic of islands, fjords, bays, inlets, and towns across the country.
with only a few areas beyond vertical sandstone structures formed by estuaries and straits connecting the Diving takes place all year, but activities
bacteria utilising methane gasses seep- main bodies of water. Despite being only are markedly lower during winter for obvi-
the reach of recreational divers. ing up from deposits deep underground. 368km (229mi) from the northernmost ous reasons; it is much colder, and the
Due to the marked differences in salin- point to the southernmost, the country’s days are short and often murky. That said,
Technical diving skills can add range and ity, which is significantly lower south of the coastline is officially 8,754km long. There winter and spring diving often rewards
bottom time, as well as provide added Danish straits, there is also a pronounced are 443 named islands and 1,419 islands those who choose to venture out while
margins of safety, but they are not a difference in habitats and species across bigger than 100m2. In other words, one the water is cool and therefore has very
requirement for most dives. Essentially, the the waters, most notably along the can nearly always find an alternate dive little or no algae, resulting in excellent vis-
seas are a submerged landscape that north-south axis, which is the direction of location nearby if the first one blows out. ibility. Summers tend to be quite lovely,
stretches from the brackish waters of the water flows and the overall salinity gradi- Denmark does not offer much of an with pleasant temperatures above and
Baltic, over the straits between the main ent. Biodiversity is generally the highest integrated hospitality-and-dive industry in under water, as well as long days and
islands to Kattegat and Skagerrak, and in areas with the biggest salt content, which accommodation, meals and div- evenings with white nights around mid-
on to the North Sea, which has almost the whereas wrecks are much better pre- ing are offered as a combined package summer. During summer, there is no other
same salinity as the oceans. served in areas where salinity is low. Once by an operator, but many of the larger place I would rather be.
500m
Atlantic Ocean
Denmark
400m The three straits are named Øresund, Because fresh and brackish water is less
Store Bælt and Lille Bælt (The Sound, dense than oceanic seawater, as the
Great Belt and Little Belt, respectively). Baltic water flows out, northwards, it does
300m The former two are busy shipping lanes so on top of the saltier oceanic water,
connecting the Baltic Sea to the North which creeps along the bottom in the op-
Sea and Atlantic Ocean. posite direction, wedging underneath in
a southbound direction.
200m South of the straits
South of the straits, we find the Baltic Sea, The straits are not just horizontal constric-
which is brackish. It was a freshwater lake, tions, they are also shallow, except for
called the Ancylus Lake, only 8,000 years some winding deep-water channels,
100m
ago, and there is a continuous inflow of which serve as shipping lanes. This is
freshwater from groundwater, rivers and where land bridges, not too long ago,
streams in its catchment area in Northeast separated the freshwater lake from the
0m Europe. The Baltic discharges through the ocean and made southern Sweden con-
Danish straits adjoining the North Sea; how- tiguous with Central Europe.
Depth
ever, the flow is stratified and complex. 0 4 8 12 16 20 24 28 32
Salinity profile in promille salt content.

80m As a result, the bottom Salinity drops markedly south of the
profile of the straits Danish straits, which act as thresholds
constitutes thresholds, over which the salty and denser water
akin to a tall doorstep from the north, only to a lesser degree,
64m
Kattegat Sweden on the seabed, which is able to creep over. See figure below.
obstructs deeper lay-
ers from flowing over
Denmark sits at a choke point between the Baltic and the Atlantic,
and the Danish straits are major shipping lanes. 48m and into the Baltic—
The Sound not entirely, but to
(Øresund) quite a limited extent.
Norway The significance of this
Denmark’s waters, or 32m inflow of salty water is,
Sweden Exclusive Economic Zone among other things, Outflow from the Baltic
(EEZ), comprise two seper- that it brings oxygen
ate areas; The smaller one Great Belt to the deeper layers
Little 16m
in the Baltic surrounds the
island of Bornholm.
(Lille Belt (Storebælt) of the Baltic, which
bæ are otherwise quite
lt)
Germany Baltic Sea depleted.
0m
Depth South of the straits, biodiversity drops
The key to appreciating the nature and distinct significantly because far less species
qualities of Danish dive sites and diving is under- Depth chart showing the straits, live, or can even survive, in brackish
lower Kattegat and the Western water than in fresh or saltwater.
standing how the bottom profile forms a saddle Baltic. Most of the seabed within
point going across the Danish straits in an east- Danish waters lies within reach On the other hand, because salin-
of recreational diving. Deeper
west direction. This ridge or shallow plateau divides locations are mainly found in
ity is low, wrecks are much better
the seas into waters of significantly different salinity, Germany Germany preserved, which is also due in part
the Baltic, and there are some
Poland because shipworm, which devours
and as a result, also into different types of biotopes. in the middle of Kattegat.
timber, cannot thrive here. So, old
wooden wrecks, often many cen-
Bottom topography, salinity & currents

turies old, remain well preserved on
the bottom.
travel Free app forecasts
currents
In recent years, often when transects Here, we find the usual complement of
are done prior to laying down cables or saltwater flora and fauna. The Danish Maritime Authority has cre-
pipelines, several medieval shipwrecks ated an app that is simply a brilliant
have been discovered with their rigging This salty water, being denser than the tool for divers.
still intact. The Vasa, now on display in its water in the Baltic, flows south along
own museum in Stockholm, is arguably the bottom, underneath the outflow- It is called Sejladsudsigt,
the most famous example of a perfectly ing brackish water from the Baltic, often which roughly translates
preserved warship from the 17th century. resulting in a strata of currents going in into “Forecast for Sailing.”
Steel ships also suffer much less corrosion different directions at different depths. It is available for iPhone,
and remain intact for a much longer time iPad and Android.
thanks to the same low salinity as well as It is predominantly in the three straits
lack of oxygen in the Baltic Sea. that we find the best and most diverse It comes with a fascinating and most
dive sites, and surely the most popular. useful feature forecasting the currents,
North of the straits This is down to two main factors. Firstly, even at different depths. The screen-
North of the straits, in between the pen- the straits have been the main shipping shots below show you how it looks.
insular part of Denmark called Jutland, lanes between the Baltic and the Atlan-
and the Swedish west coast, we have a tic for centuries, if not millennia, so this is The interface and menu system are
body of water known as Kattegat, which obviously also where many shipwrecks also in English. All one has to do is select
is saline, just slightly less than the ocean. have occurred. The Danish waters are lit- a region and pick a depth, and then
tered with them, including mod- the app displays colour-coded graphs
PETER SYMES
ern vessels, warships and planes depicting the predicted strength and
from WWII, warships from WWI Screenshot from the app MarineTraffic (available for both Android and iOS), showing shipping direction of currents, which may be dif-
and earlier, tall ships and cargo traffic moving through Danish waters ferent at differ-
vessels, Hanseatic kogges and PETER SYMES
ent depths.
Dutch flutes, Viking ships and
canoes from all the way back The information
to the Stone Age. There are tens is also available
of thousands of registered loca- on a website:
tions, but, granted, that count https://ifm.fcoo.
includes wrecks of which there is dk
now barely anything left to see.
So, now one can
The second reason is the current, know what to ex-
Thermocline
which in places—most notably pect in advance
in Lille Bælt (Little Belt), which is and prepare ac-
arguably the area with the best cordingly for a
dive sites in the country—carves planned dive. 
out steep banks and drop-offs
close enough to the beach that
Halocline
you can just walk out from the
coast and dive to, say, a depth
40m without much of a swim.
We will get back to that in more
detail in the following stories.
Hold on to the downline, and your camera! At times, Where there are currents, there
divers may have to descend and ascend though a are also nutrients, and conse-
water column that is stratified into three layers seperated quently, thriving life, and the Mind heavy shipping in the southern part of the Great Belt. Large ships travel in the deep-water
by a thermocline and a halocline. Each layer may have banks along the straits or stone channel, which is quite narrow in some places. Divers head out to one of the many wrecks that
currents that run in different directions and strengths. reefs often display prolific life.  lie along this channel, and in some cases, right in the middle of it—such as the WWII German
Below the halocline, the visibility is often much better destroyer M36, which is described later in a following story. This location is one of the more
because the water is cool and devoid of algae. extreme, in regard to shipping. In most cases, dive sites are not so close to shipping lanes.
Denmark: General Overview Skagen
At the tip of Denmark, where Kattegat and
Skagerak meet, currents clash and shoals
keep shifting. Exposed to storms and waves
Skagerak from the North Sea and the Atlantic, these
The Skagerrak is between 80 and 140km wide. It deepens treacherous waters have caused a lot of
towards the Norwegian coast, reaching over 700m at shipwrecks over time and now offer some
the Norwegian Trench. Near the Danish coast, a belt up of the best wreck diving in the country. The
to 50km wide comprises sandy, gravelly or stony bottom prevalence of choppy seas makes planning
at up to 50m depth. This sea uncertain and diving often challenging.
is much exposed to wind and
wave action. The most famous
wreck here is the ferry M/S Skag- Kattegat
erak, which went down in 1966 Parts in the middle are
without loss of life. Now it lies deep. It has assorted
upside down at a depth of 25m. wrecks and reefs with life.
Areas around the islands of
Læsø and Anholt are shal-
North Sea low with shoals. Both islands
The Danish west are quite a way out. Big
coast slopes very seal colonies can be seen
gently; For every on the islands' beaches.
kilometre, it only
gets 1m deeper. Lots
of tall ships have Øresund
foundered here by The Sound is the second
being blown toward busiest shipping lane. With
shore in storms and Lakes and streams low to moderate depths,
grounding on sand
bars. Little remains of
it has many good wrecks,
including a number of tall Find dive buddies in
these wrecks be-
cause the surf grinds
ships stemming from 16th,
17th and 18th century na-
Denmark - become a
them down. Wide
beaches with surf
val battles, some still with
cannons present.
member of a local club
make entry chal-
lenging. Farther out, Do you want interesting diving in Denmark
however, there are Lillebælt Fehmarn Sound Østersøen - join a local club and through them DSF
mighty warships from (Little Belt) is Moderate depth; a.k.a. The Baltic Sea, or (Danish Sportsdivers Federation - a voluntary member organization).
the Battle of Jutland the narrow- many good wrecks. more specifically, the south-
There is about 160 local DSF dive-clubs in Denmark
the largest naval est of the western part of it. Because
battle of WWI. three straits. of the low salinity, wrecks - join us and get the optimal conditions for you
It is generally Storebælt are much better preserved as a diver - before, during and after your dives.
considered the best area to dive The Great Belt and its southern in these waters. It is also
because locations have lots of extension, Langeland's Belt, here we find the greatest Membership benefits:
biodiversity and can easily be are shipping lanes littered with depths, which technical di- • You are welcome with us, no matter where you have obtained
accessed from the beach. wrecks. There are also nice vers can explore. The island your diving education and what certification you have
patches with reefs and lots of Bornholm sits by itself, • Participation in instructor and dive leader training
of sea life. Also, the east of the rest of Den- • The magazine “Sportsdykkeren”
Sydfynske Øhav bridge pillars, which are mark and south of Swe- • Access to divers´ insurance and Falck’s crisis help
(South Funen Archipelago) is a picturesque area covered with sessile life, den. It is the only part of • An active website
with many small islands and plenty of marinas, are popular dive sites. the country that has rocks,
• A meeting point for diving in Denmark
making it a favourite among boaters. The area is Currents can be rip- which makes for a differ-
• You automatically become member of CMAS, EUF and DIF
relatively shallow and easy to dive. There are ping, so fun drift dives ent type of diving. The
some good wrecks, including the artificial reef can be had. island is a popular holiday
M/F Ærøsund, as well as Stone Age settlements. destination.
DSF - www.sportsdykning.dk Find your local club >
Impressions of Denmark — A Selection from Nature, Culture, Town & Countryside
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Heather fields by the beach in Rørvig on the bridge that crosses the ring lakes in Copenhagen; A swan cygnet naps in
island of Zealand; Winter evening at Nyhavn in Copenhagen; Wildflower; the embrace of its mother; Wild anemone flowers, which only bloom for
Supermoon and thatched-roof cottage, Rørvig; Preparing dive gear and a couple weeks in springtime, creating carpets of flowers like snow in the
underwater cameras for a dive in Little Belt, Jutland; Folks hang out on the forests around Zealand
travel Denmark
NATIONAL MUSEET
Kronborg Castle guards the narrowest

point of Øresund (above); Medieval
frescos in a village church (right);
Crown jewels on display at Rosenborg
METTE JOHNSEN / VISITDENMARK Castle (top center)
Nothing beats a great

meal made from local
produce after a day
of diving, cycling or
just walking the city. In
recent years, count-
less good eateries have
popped up everywhere.
Many Copenhageners commute by bicycle (above); The

Sun Chariot, Early Bronze Age, ca.1400 BC (above inset);
Medieval ruins of Hammershus on the island of Bornholm VISIT DENMARK
in the Baltic Sea (below)
Jazzhouse Montmartre in Copenhagen is one of the best jazz venues in

Europe (above); The northern tip of Denmark where two seas meet (center Frederiksborg Castle, noted for its towers and turrets, is one of the finest examples
left); Copenhagen's old neighbourhoods have been restored (top left). VISIT DENMARK of Renaissance architecture. It is now a museum open to the general public.
travel
On a large area of moorland, which is now protected, the

“king stone” in Odsherrred marks the spot where Harald THIS PAGE: The many sheltered waters and bays in Denmark make it an optimal place to holiday with family. Fishing
Bluetooth was elected king of Denmark in 1076 (above); A for crabs never gets old. The blue contraption (top) is a race track for crabs being released back into the sea. Even
good place for fossil hunting, Møns Klint is a stretch of chalk at mid-summer, one can find beautiful beaches and sand dunes, which are not one bit crowded. After a good day
cliffs along the southern coast of Denmark (top left); The at the beach or in the marina, why not pick up some fresh local produce from a few of the roadside stalls or farms? Seafood barbeque in Rørvig Havn (harbour). The res-
beach at Rørvig, on the northern coast of Zealand (right) Or you can hang out at the marina and enjoy seafood barbeque in the long summer evenings. During summer, taurant is right next to a shop with fresh and smoked
many good concerts also take place in the recreational areas in the countryside and resorts along the coast. fish; Beth Hart performs in Tivoli Gardens (top right).
The popular canalside cafés and
restaurants of charming historic Nyhavn
at sunset in the center of Copenhagen,
the capital city of Denmark
Text by Scott Bennett. Photos

by Scott Bennett, Lars Stenholt
Kirkegaard and Peter Symes
“We’re going to Middelfart??”
Now there was a name to
draw out my inner 8-year-old.
It's funny because it has “fart”
in it! Chuckles over and com-
posure regained, my interest
was piqued. Having been side-
lined earlier in the year due to
an unexpected health issue, I
was eager for a dive trip. When
X-Ray Mag's editor-in-chief, Peter
Symes, suggested his home turf
of Denmark, I was a bit hesi-
tant. As someone weaned on
the tropics, the country does not
exactly leap to mind as a dive
destination. After all, isn’t diving
all about coral reefs overflow-
Denmark
ing with colourful reef fish? What
could possibly entice me to dive
in water cold enough to transform Diving & Dining in
my fingers into arthritic claws?
PETER SYMES
— A Foreigner's Perspective
SCOTT BENNETT
I had visited Copenhagen before, km, Funen (or “Fyn” as it is known locations, attracting not only resi- undertaking. I had doubts as to
but had never been outside the in Denmark) is the country’s third- dents but visitors from neighbouring whether the car could even pull
city, let alone dive. Located 209km largest island. Germany and the Netherlands. I it! Happily, the car managed, and
(130mi) west of Copenhagen in the Nothing to do with flatulence, the would soon discover it to be a very we set out for the three-hour drive
central part of Denmark, Middelfart name “Middelfart” is derived from different kind of dive experience. to Middelfart. Best of all: no worries
is situated at the western end of the Old Danish terms mæthal (mid- After a day to recover from jet- about airport check-ins or excess
the island of Funen, just across the dle) and far (way), referring to the lag, it was time to get ready. Peter baggage charges.
Lillebælt (Little Belt), the channel Snævringen Strait, Little Belt’s nar- managed to borrow a trailer to tow
Canadian author and associate editor Scott separating it from the peninsula of rowest section. It is also renowned behind his car. Loading it with dive The journey
Bennett learnt to dive in a drysuit in Denmark Jutland. With an area of 3,099.7 sq as one of Denmark’s prime diving gear and luggage was a major Getting there required a traverse
and is seen here with the Old Little Belt Bridge. Middelfart
travel
Copenhagen is famous for its many bicy-
cles, gathered in front of cafés where
locals enjoy dining outdoors, even in
colder months, wrapped up in blankets
provided by the many cozy cafés such
as Skildpadden (The Turtle) dotting the
small streets of the old historic center
(left); Colourful poppies and wildflowers
dot the green fields of the Danish coun-
tryside (right)
SCOTT BENNETT
The city is also famous for its many iconic

spires, such as the dragon spire of the
17th-century stock exchange Børsen (left)
and the Neo-Baroque spire of St. Nicholas
Church (right), which now houses the
SCOTT BENNETT
Nikolaj Contemporary Art Center.
PETER SYMES
of the Danish archipelago. Of the 443 Diving 2000
islands, we had to cross two. Departing Enroute to Middelfart, we stopped
Copenhagen’s bustle, we soon entered in the city of Odense to visit the
the green of the Danish countryside. dive center Diving 2000 where we
Dotted with numerous farms, it looked picked up tanks and gear. Odense SCOTT BENNETT
remarkably like rural Ontario, my home is famous as the birthplace of Hans
province in Canada. Christian Anderson, and the city has Fænø-Sund Conference Center,
We then passed over the Great Belt many reminders of this distinction for the a sprawling complex of identical PETER SYMES
Bridge connecting the big islands of visitor. Despite spending most of his life yellow bungalows occupying a
Zealand and Fyn, an engineering marvel in Copenhagen, both cities tussle over waterside location just outside of town.
that was the largest construction project ownership of Denmark’s most famous lit- Our cottage was bright and spacious,
in Danish history. Encompassing a road erary son. with two bedrooms and bathroom, a liv-
suspension bridge and a railway tunnel On hand to meet us at the dive cen- ing room, kitchen and outdoor patio—sort
between Zealand and the small island ter was owner Jan Laurenborg Olsen, of like an Ikea cottage, with white walls
Sprogø, located in the who promptly fitted me and black furnishings. The spacious back
middle of the Great Belt, with a shell and the latest courtyard was promptly occupied with
and a box girder bridge for Waterproof drysuit. Very snaz- our mountain of dive gear. Arriving on the
both road and rail traffic zy indeed! We also picked up cusp of the school holiday season, the
from Sprogø to Fyn, the sus- some tanks and added them resort was not yet full.
pension bridge features the to our already packed trailer. By the time everything was unpacked, it
world’s third longest main I was amazed the car could was getting past dinner time, so we head-
span (1.6km or 1mi) and is pull it all. ed into town to see what was open. Not a
the longest outside Asia. lot, as it turned out. Fortunately, Café Jazz,
Prior to opening to road Lodging situated right on the waterfront was open,
traffic in 1998, the only way After another hour, we finally but we had to order fast. We all enjoyed a
across from Copenhagen arrived at Middelfart. Our tasty smoked salmon salad as the sun set
was by ferry. home for the week was the behind the Old Little Belt Bridge. PETER SYMES
Odense Jan Laurenborg Olsen (center) is the owner of Diving 2000 dive center in Odense (above).
travel
PETER SYMES
PETER SYMES
PETER SYMES
PETER SYMES
PETER SYMES
PETER SYMES
LEFT TO RIGHT: Quail's egg-topped beef tartare and tartlets

(once served to the Queen, according to the chef); salad of
green, cherry and heirloom tomatoes from the inn's garden;
braised cod with fresh peas and Danish new potatoes; flying gur-
nard fish and chips; Danish cheeses; and a strawberry-rhubarb
compote with mascarpone ice cream for dessert
including, green, cherry and heirloom,
all harvested from the restaurant gar-
Culinary adventure has cooked den. The freshness was superb.
The next day began with a culinary regularly for Next up, cod braised in rich stock
adventure: lunch at a Michelin-star res- the Danish PETER SYMES was seasoned to perfection, served
taurant. Our reservation was for noon Royal family. alongside garden-fresh green peas
(the only available spot for days) and Pulling up stakes to head to Jutland, tic flower arrangements and eclectic and Danish new potatoes. Chef
Henne Kirkeby the drive just over an hour. Being a the master chef now fronts Henne framed prints. Our waiter described Cunningham’s fish and chips was a
serious foodie, my anticipation was off Kirkeby Kro, a 300-year-old thatched the mélange of courses, with the menu splendid take on the traditional British
the charts. heritage inn renowned as one of reflecting what was in season. We all favourite. Flying gurnard coated with
Henne Kirkeby Set near Jutland’s west coast, the Denmark’s top dining venues. Serving opted for the set lunch of five courses a feather-light batter paired with crisp
Kro, Chef Paul small village of Henne Kirkeby seemed up field-to-fork gourmet cuisine with with corresponding glasses of wine. chips further tantalized the taste buds.
Cunningham's an odd place for a Michelin-star restau- vegetables from the restaurant gar- Although trying to watch my diet, Dessert was a strawberry-rhubarb
Michelin-star rant. “What’s it doing way out here?” I den, combined with artisanal local especially regarding fried food, I fig- compote with mascarpone ice cream,
restaurant on asked Peter. “The chef is something of produce, the inn draws legions of loyal ured if I was going to throw caution to a thoroughly decadent way to finish.
the western
a rock star,” he replied with a grin. fans undeterred by the three-hour trip the wind, this would be the place! We were then treated by a visit with
coast of Jutland
(top left), is Said star was Englishman Paul from Copenhagen. First up was an appetizer of a beef the man himself. Clad in striped apron
styled with the Cunningham, a man boasting some tartare topped with a quail’s egg and and Danish slippers, Henne Kirkeby’s
clean lines of serious culinary credentials. As the for- Five-course affair tartlets (a favourite of the Danish roy- guru cut an imposing figure. Tall, bald
Danish décor, mer executive chef of the now closed Behind the historic façade was an inte- als) served alongside a salad topped and bearded, his smile reminded me
accented with Michelin-rated restaurant “The Paul” rior that was cool and contemporary, with edible nasturtiums. A tomato salad of the infectious charm of comedian/
delicate floral in Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens, he with crisp whites augmented with artis- featured five different types of tomato actor Ricky Gervais, along with a
arrangements. PETER SYMES
PETER SYMES
travel
SCOTT BENNETT
SCOTT BENNETT
SCOTT BENNETT
Chef Paul Cunningham (above) in his restaurant

garden (left); Coffee and biscuits on the terrace
(left); The inn (top right) and church (right) in Jelling
very English sense of us to Henne (Yes, just like the wireless tech,
humour. “You’ve come Strand, a which was indeed named after
a long way for fish and holiday town him). In fact, the roots of the
chips,” he quipped. right on present Danish kingdom can be SCOTT BENNETT
the coast. traced back to Gorm the Old in a
Garden tour Stretching to continuous line. Bluetooth in memory of his par- the house. Not that we needed
After a cappuccino the horizon in Dating from the transitional peri- ents. Unfortunately, both are now much after our sumptuous lunch.
and biscuits on the ter- both direc- od between Norse paganism and encased in glass, courtesy of a
race, the chef led us tions, the Christianity, the site featured two drunken college student’s late- White Nights
out back for a tour of powdery- massive royal grave mounds and night graffiti binge. Being the time of “White Nights,”
the gardens. No mere plot, the white beach was imposing and the Jelling Church, a 12th century A hike up to the summit of the dinner was later than usual. As
operation was extensive, com- thronged with holidaymakers structure in the traditional chalk- larger mound provided superb Denmark is positioned at a much
plete with a small greenhouse. unfazed by the unseasonable stone style. The adja- view over the entire higher latitude than Toronto, it did
Ruby-red strawberries, tomatoes, coolness. No diving here, how- cent churchyard is area. With the glori- not get dark until well after 11:00
gooseberries and edible flow- ever, as the North Sea remains home to the Jelling ous late afternoon p.m. Even at midnight, a sliver of
ers jostled for space alongside shallow for quite a way out. stones, carved light, it was a per- light illuminated the horizon. I sus-
a multitude of herbs. It doesn’t runestones bearing fect photographic pected sleeping in would not be
get any fresher than that! Chef Jelling Denmark’s best- end to the day. A an issue.
Cunningham’s passion for food A drive across the Jutland coun- known runic inscrip- nearby supermar- Dawn came around 4:00 a.m.,
has not gone unnoticed. Since tryside brought us to Jelling, a tions. The older stone ket was open, and and outside my window, a cuck-
our visit, the restaurant has added small village with some big history. was erected by we stocked up on oo called, sounding like, well, a
another Michelin star. A 10th century Viking settlement, King Gorm in mem pickled herring, blue cuckoo clock. With car loaded
Jelling was a royal monument ory of his wife Thyra cheese, smoked and my trepidation mounting, we
Beachside during the reigns of King Gorm the while the larger was salmon and salads set out on the hour-long drive to
PETER SYMES Bellies full, a short drive brought Old and his son Harald Bluetooth. raised by Harald for dinner back at Fyn’s southern coast.
Danish floral design in the inn Jelling
travel
PETER SYMES
LARS STENHOLT KIRKEGAARD
SDU
Ringsgård Basin
(above) near Ballen
shown on locator map
(below) where the
Ærøsund ferry (center
inset) was sunk; Views
of the interior of the wreck after it was sunk in 2014 (right column);
Peter Symes and author Scott Bennett prepare for a dive (left).
had been decontaminated and like. On the other hand, the

G. SYMES made safe for diving and marine coolness was a blessing; we
life. By June 2015, a steady growth would not broil in our lay-
Ærøsund wreck of vegetation started to appear, and ers and black drysuits while
Our destination was the M/F Ærøsund, within a few months, the wreck had waiting to dive. The extra 45
Denmark’s last train ferry and newest become heavily overgrown. Today, pounds of combined weight
wreck. Here we would hook up with the Ærøsund is one of Denmark’s most belt plus steel tank ensured I
fellow diver Lars, who was bringing renowned artificial reefs. Positioned did not move too quickly.
a group down from Odense. Most of 550m from shore at a depth of 19m, The divers had brought LARS STENHOLT KIRKEGAARD
the journey was by expressway and the uppermost section along two
the Saturday morning traffic was light. (the funnel) is only 6m zodiacs, which would a challenge, but I made it.
Arriving at the park, we passed holi- beneath the surface, take both groups to the Getting there required took only five
day caravans parked on the grass, making the wreck ferry. Nevertheless, after minutes. We were in the second smaller
the weekend campers unfazed by accessible for both double and triple checks, group and waited for others to go in
the cool weather. The Odense group freedivers and scuba the moment of truth had first. A backwards roll and I was in. The
had already arrived, and Jan was divers. arrived. Waddling to the water was not as cold as expected—
giving a briefing. The moment of truth With Peter’s patient jetty, I wondered how I a balmy 16°C. Not bad for such a
had arrived! assistance, I managed was going to lower myself northern latitude. Right away, I noticed
Located in the Ringsgård Basin near to gear up with minimal down to the zodiac. The the water to be less buoyant than the
the village of Ballen, the Ærøsund difficulty. The weather answer was cautiously and ocean. Technically part of the Baltic
was sunk in a controlled scuttling in was 16°C and overcast, slowly. Climbing down from Sea, the water was more on the brack-
October 2014. Beforehand, the vessel not particularly summer- the much higher jetty was ish side and less salty.
Ærøsund wreck
travel Denmark
SCOTT BENNETT
Small delicate
anemone (above);
Yellow sponges and
small red anemo-
nes cover the walls
along Lillebælt strait
(left); Sugarkelp and
seaweeds (right);
Moon jellyfish are the
most abundant spe-
cies of jellyfish. They
do sting but only so
weakly that one can-
not feel anything if
touched; however,
one's lips may feel
a slight tingle, after
coming into contact
with the tentacles
SCOTT BENNETT (bottom left). SCOTT BENNETT
Diving the wreck especially considering the wreck was happened. “Don’t worry, it happens Svendborg sojourn
For the first dive, we concentrated just a few years old at the time we to us all once!” he responded cheer- Later in the afternoon, we stopped
on the main deck, so I could prac- dived it. Clusters of yellow sponges fully. “All part of the learning process.” at Svendborg, a picturesque city
tice basic buoyancy skills. As it was were prevalent, adding a splash of With diving finished for the day, nestled on Funen’s southern coast.
my first time out, I opted to leave the colour. Some fish darted about, but we decided to take the scenic route Established in the 12th century, the
camera behind. Due to recent rains, moon jellyfish were especially numer- back to do some photography. city is the gateway to Funen’s south-
visibility was minimal, limited to only a ous. Fortunately, they did not sting—a Pastoral vistas abounded; thatched ern archipelago. A shipbuilding hub
few metres. good thing, as a few brushed across roofs crowned tra- for generations, the
The vessel featured large openings my face. All in all, everything went ditional farmhouses, world’s largest contain-
for divers to swim through, with two rather well, and I looked forward to while orange poppies er ship company, A.P.
yellow buoys anchored to iron chains the next dive. added vivid splashes to Møller-Mærsk, had its
to help divers locate them. The bal- Unfortunately, it proved to be rather the surrounding fields. origins in the city. Today
last remained in place, helping to abbreviated. After my back-roll entry, Fields of golden wheat it is a major sailing cen-
stabilize the ship’s upward position on I felt a surge of cold water rushing up rippled under a cobalt tre, with more Danish
the sandy bottom. The wreck’s lowest my legs. Flood! As surface chop had sky, the occasional tree boats registered than
portion was covered with mud and intensified, getting back aboard the interrupting the hori- anywhere else outside
difficult to swim through without stir- zodiac was a real struggle. Out of zon. (Read more about of Copenhagen. Each
ring up silt. breath and feeling sheepish, I waited diving the wreck in the summer, the country’s
Finning around at a depth of five for the others to finish their dives. Peter following story on the yachting elite inundate
metres, marine growth was surprising, soon resurfaced, and I explained what sinking of Ærøsund). the cafe-dotted streets.
SCOTT BENNETT Svendborg
travel
SCOTT BENNETT
PETER SYMES
In the Neolithic period, flint scrapers were

PETER SYMES
often used to soften hides, or to clean
Along the coastline of Thurø, just a few km meat off of hides, in addition to being
from the town of Svendborg, Stone Age used for wood work. Flint scrapers were essentially
artefacts such as flint scrapers and bones flakes from a globule of flint stone, say, the size of a
can be found in shallow depths; Danish flow- football. Using another tool to apply pressure to one
er garden (left); Wild rosehip blooms (right) of the flat surfaces, it was possible to chip off these
flakes, which were razor sharp along the edges—a
technique that is often demonstrated in living muse-
Thurø sive real estate! Although we did not DIY mentality ums today. The scrapers were thus relatively easy
First, we made find any arrowheads, the walk along Arriving back at the resort, I faced and fast to make, and once the edge got dull, they
a detour over the water was very picturesque. A something that was entirely new to me: were resharpened by chipping away at the edge,
to nearby dive-bombing seagull added some We had to fill our own tanks. Although until they were eventually discarded as new ones
island of unexpected drama. the resort did not have an actual dive were made. As a result, over time, discarded scrap-
Thurø. Around Thurø Sund is also unique biologi- shop, there were facilities onsite to fill ers and other refuse, such as animal bones and shells
Denmark’s cally. Although meadows of carbon- the tanks. This trip was a true do-it-your- from clams and oysters, just piled up high at sites of
Stone Age settlements. (See more info in next article).
shallow bays, storing seagrass are found in coastal self endeavour and a rude awakening
Island of Thurø it is possible to areas worldwide, biologists have con- to those accustomed to extending a
find artefacts cluded those at Thurø Sund (sound) to foot and having someone put a fin on
dating back to the Stone age and be the most efficient found anywhere. it. (Like me!)
Peter wanted to show me such a loca- This carbon-storing trait is garnering After a long day, we did not feel like
tion at Thurø Sund (Thurø Sound). The serious attention from scientists search- cooking, so Peter’s trusty iPad located
area was residential, with rambling old- ing to reduce CO2 emissions into the us some pizza takeaway. Babylon Pizza
style homes adorned with thatched atmosphere. proved a real cross-cultural estab- PETER SYMES
roofs. Parking the car, we strolled down lishment: a pizza joint, with a Middle
the lane towards the water, but it all Downtown Svendborg Eastern name, run by Tamils. The enor- water, and Little Belt was no excep-
PETER SYMES
appeared to be private land. A local Back in the city, we had a wander mous meat-lover’s pizza was excellent! tion. Currents at high tide can be
homeowner asked what we were around the downtown center’s pedes- The next day was a literal washout, as it especially fierce, surging up to three Stone Age settlements were commonly placed
doing and then kindly invited us to walk trian mall. Despite being Saturday, it was continuously poured with rain. It proved knots. Knowledge of incoming and along the coastline, preferably near creeks and estu-
through his property. the pre-dinner lull, and the streets was to be a good time to rest and do some outgoing tides is imperative, but a aries. In the Stone Age, the sea level was lower, and
His home had been in the family for largely deserted. Traditional architec- photo editing. government website (https://ifm.fcoo. contours of the coastline were quite different from
five generations, and they had been ture of wood and stucco flanked the dk/select/index.html) produced by today's. But in some places, such as Thurø Sound
(shown in the image above, as viewed looking east,
fisherman. One separate structure cobbled streets while back courtyards Tides the Department of Defense’s Centre
with the island of Langeland in the distance), it is pos-
turned out to be the old smokehouse revealed sequestered-away restaurants With the Danish archipelago obstruct- for Operative Oceanography (Huh?) sible to "guesstimate" where one might have been
where fish were hung to dry. Although and shops. Some of the older buildings ing water passage from the Baltic came to the rescue. Peter bookmarked placed by studying bottom profiles on a sea chart.
fishing had ceased years earlier, they lacked right angles. Skewed and colour- to the Atlantic, channels between it on his iPad, so our dive sites could be Thurø Sound forms a deep channel, so it must also
now possessed some seriously expen- ful, they proved especially photogenic. islands funnel tremendous amounts of chosen accordingly. have formed a coastline during the Stone Age. 
travel Denmark
PETER SYMES SCOTT BENNETT
View of the entry to Fænø Sund (top left); Delicate red anemones (top right); Crabs were numerous at Fænø Sund, and this one (left) was eating a freshly
caught shrimp, its headless body firmly clasped in the crab's claw.
shore entry. I opted to go without eating a freshly caught shrimp, gods had other plans. My release a huge full moon ascended. The
the camera to concentrate on its headless body firmly clasped valve was jammed, and I could time? Eleven o’clock, and we still
improving my drysuit skills. in one pincher. The gobies were not deflate the suit. Bobbing had not eaten dinner yet.
Visibility was a bit murky on more skittish, but I still got some helplessly on the surface, I felt
the surface but cleared as we images. Peter pointed out some like the Michelin Man. So much Søbadet
went deeper. The sandy bottom anemones, which were the small- for the dive… After a leisurely start the next
was punctuated with weeds and est I have ever seen. Like tiny red A quick trip to Dive 2000 was morning, we headed to Søbadet
more crabs than I have ever seen jewels, they were a stark contrast required to remedy the problem, (The Sea Bath), situated near the
in one place. Along with a mul- to the muted tones of the sand. and Jan took care of it pronto. It Old Little Belt Bridge. Renowned
titude of mussels, the sand was turns out that late the next after- as one of the area’s premier dive
buzzing with tiny gobies. We even New Little Belt Bridge noon, he was taking a student sites, it is not only popular with
startled a small flounder, which Checking the tides for the next out for an open water dive at Danish divers, but with visiting
promptly vanished in day, we decided Søbadet, a site near our resort. Dutch and Germans. We parked
a flurry of sand. on a site on the We agreed to meet up. It was a in front the old sea bath house, a
Feeling confident, Jutland side, close plan. Heading back, we decided distinctive yellow building about
I took the camera to the New Little Belt on another dive at Fænø Sund 30m from shore. Carrying all our
for the second dive. Bridge. Conditions as it was close to home. I espe- gear to the water took some seri-
SCOTT BENNETT
Although less flexible were perfect, with cially enjoyed photographing ous effort!
Fænø Sund dient. Hovering around 19°C, than a wetsuit, the almost no current the anemones along with some A small jetty made a great spot
The next day we headed back temperatures were cool for June, drysuit did not hinder and a glassy sur- appealing white starfish tinted to gear up, with only a short swim
to Fænø Sund, only a few min- but most comfortable when sit- my photography. face. With gearing- with hues of yellow and red. We to the deeper water. Søbadet is
utes drive from our cottage. This ting in a drysuit during our sur- The crabs were toler- up time quickening, later headed back to photograph one of Denmark’s sole “multiple-
time, we could park adjacent to face intervals. Conditions were ant, so I could get I felt confident as I the sunset. Crimson and orange level wall dive” sites, and just off-
the site, so getting gear to the calmer too, so the dive would close to shoot some entered the water. tones set water and sky aglow, shore, the dive area is indicated by
water’s edge was far more expe- be a lot easier with a simple portraits. One was However, the dive while in the opposite direction, large yellow buoys.
Fænø Sund
travel Drysuit Newbie: Taking the Cold-Water Plunge
I will be honest; when it comes to cold water,
I am something of a wuss. With most my 900+
help but think that if I was wearing a 3mm
wetsuit in the tropics, I would be already in the
dives regulated to the tropics, cold water water photographing stuff.
diving is a concept that usually fills me with
trepidation. I have managed some dives in Underwater, but dry inside
the Great Lakes in Canada as well as South When one is not used to it, the feeling of being
Africa. On the cool side to be sure, I man- underwater, yet dry inside, was decidedly odd.
aged just fine with a 7mm wetsuit. Once in the water, overall flexibility was notice-
However, diving in Denmark often calls for ably reduced compared to a wetsuit but not
a drysuit. With such experience nil (an unsuc- uncomfortably so. The biggest difference was
cessful attempt one January in Copenhagen, the lack of a BCD. The inflator on the suit itself
notwithstanding), this would prove to be some- was easy enough, but the control valve just
thing entirely different. PETER SYMES
behind my left shoulder
However, new experienc- took some getting used
es are a good thing, and to. Not particularly difficult,
pre-conceived notions mind you—just different.
are not. Besides, I had
the perfect dive buddy Bouyancy challenges
to help me along. It was I found the hardest part
time to take the plunge. was maintaining buoyancy
with the control valve. Just
Donning in the field turning one’s shoulder a
Trying on gear in the certain way was enough
store was one thing but to release air from the
getting ready on loca- suit. That is, if you open
tion was an entirely dif- it properly before going
ferent animal. It was underwater. On a few
PETER SYMES
strange to consider I was occasions, I mistakenly had
A brilliant sunset over Fænø Sund in the region of Funen, or “Fyn,” as the Danes call it wearing track pants and it closed instead of open.
t-shirt that would not be I had been warned that
Large numbers of moon jellyfish still slack. Following the chain, we up considerably. Struggling with my getting wet inside the too much air in the suit can
pulsed off the jetty. As the tide slack- descended to a plateau with a width release valve, I turned it the wrong suit (in theory, anyways, result in floating upwards
ened, many became stranded in the of two to three metres. Farther down way, filling my suit with air. Holding but more on that later). feet-first. And yes, it hap-
shallows to ultimately wash up on shore. was another wall and another step the chain at the safety stop, my After putting on the shell, pened. Several times.
A chain anchored to the bottom before it sloped down to 25 to 30m. feet went upwards and the rest of Peter showed me how to
made an easy trail to follow out to As Peter said, the seabed was me promptly followed. Fortunately, apply baby powder over Flooding the suit
the wall. Expanses of eelgrass quickly flat and lifeless at that depth, so we were not deep, but I surfaced the rubber seals at the In the end, everything
changed to sugarkelp, a brown we opted to stick with the wall. right into a current, which started neck and wrists to make that could go wrong, did.
algae resembling large lasagna Descending farther, the environ- whisking me away from the jetty. them easier to get into. Flooding the suit due to an
noodles. Goldsinny wrasse darted ment changed yet again. Sea squirt After a brief bit of panic, I managed Boots were attached to improperly closed zipper
amongst the fronds along with the colonies abounded along with pink to get ashore. Peter volunteered to the suit in one piece, but was probably the absolute
omnipresent moon jellies. Frequently oaten pipe hydroid and plumose return to the house to make us some the gloves were separate low point for embarrass-
brushing my face, I was grateful they anemones. The wall itself was not lunch. Reluctant to shed the drysuit, I wet gloves. ment, but I was assured
did not sting! It was an environment actually rock, but clay. Nevertheless, remained to snooze on the jetty. that it happens to everyone. Another very
unlike anything I had seen before, it was riddled with nooks and cran- Weight minor flood occurred due to an improper seal
but huge quantities of sediment nies, providing hiding places for fish Final dive My weight belt was in the form of a shoul- on either a wrist or the neck.
made photography an impossibility. and molluscs. A viviparous eelpout Weary, yet undeterred, I was eager der harness that effectively balanced the 30 In retrospect, these mishaps proved to be a
Following the chain to a depth of (one of the most unlikely fish names I for another dive. Heading back pounds required. Factor in the 15-pound steel good thing. These were all situations I needed
seven metres, we reached the first ever heard) added a splash of red to down, we followed the chain to the tank and it made for some serious heft. The to know how to deal with. Gearing up was
level of the wall. Along the top, sug- the yellow of the sponges. Shooting wall. The rocks at the base proved 45 pounds of combined weight belt, plus one cumbersome at first but got progressively
arkelp and Laminaria hyperborea, a close to the wall with twin strobes to be my favourite part of the dive. tank, ensured I did not move too quickly. My easier. By the final dive, the stars aligned, and
leathery seaweed, undulated gen- really helped minimize backscatter. Upon closer scrutiny, a myriad of tank was attached to a BCD, but I would not everything went perfectly. Goodbye trepida-
tly—an indication the current was Heading back, the current picked creatures was revealed. Clusters of be using the latter for buoyancy. I could not tion, hello cold water. I’m hooked! 
travel
OUR BOATS ARE NOW OPERATING
IN THE RED SEA AND MALDIVES
TO HELP YOU PLAN, WE’RE CONTINUING
TO OFFER OUR “NO DEPOSIT SCHEME“
Contact us for the latest updates on new flight arrivals
Contact reservations@emperordivers.com
We’re the team to help you go diving again!
SCOTT BENNETT
Red whelk were

numerous at LEADING THE WAY SINCE 1992
Søbadet (above) Quality | Excellence | Service | Flexibility | Value
Emperor_Diver_HH.indd 2 24/09/2020 14:36
SCOTT BENNETT
Viviparous eelpout next to a red whelk with a tiny nudibranch hitching a ride (above)
blue mussels abounded, as a myriad a Yarrell’s blenny peering out

of crabs scuttled. Red whelks were from a crevice but could not
everywhere; many were encrusted get a photo. Tadpole fish could
with tiny strawberry anemones. also be observed along with the
One whelk yielded a real surprise. occasional lobster. SCOTT BENNETT
Hitching a ride was a nudibranch so Then, it got cold. REALLY cold.
small, I failed to see it until examin- Turns out we blundered into a serious turned out the water was a brisk 6°C. Dykkerklubben (dive club), an
ing the photo on my laptop. I spotted thermocline. I was so engrossed with “If you can handle that, you can dive underwater trail follows the stone reef
another eelpout and this one sat still my photography that I scarcely paid pretty much anywhere,” said Peter into the Little Belt. Ideal for novice
long enough for me to photograph it. much attention. Some 15 minutes later, with a grin. divers, the trail extends for 50m, with a
Illuminated by my torch, the colours it was a different story. Warmer water maximum depth of 12mm.
were quite striking, especially in con- beckoned, and we made our way Diverse diving Along its length, nine markers provide
trast to the wall’s grey tones. back to the shallows. This time, I was The entire Little Belt area offers a information about the diversity of life
Perched vicariously atop one kelp grateful my safety stop did not involve variety of dive sites. Just before the to be observed around the reef. Signs
frond, a tiny spider crab brazenly shooting to the surface feet-first. Back old bridge on the way to Jutland, a are numbered one through nine, with
SCOTT BENNETT raised its pinchers in defiance of my on shore, I was elated that everything turnoff leads to Kongebrogaarden an arrow pointing to the subsequent
Common goby (above); A view of the Old Little Belt close approach. I could just make out went perfectly for our final dive. It Marina. Adjacent to the Marsvinet marker. Fish species vary depending
Bridge over the New Little Belt Bridge in the distance (right)
travel
SCOTT BENNETT
PETER SYMES
PETER SYMES
Fishing boats in Middlefart's

harbour, with the Old Little
Belt Bridge in silhouette (top);
Danish Carlsberg beer at Café
Jazz, where a porpoise was
spotted in the bay, with the
New Little Belt Bridge (right).
on the season, with viviparous For our last night, we headed back plete the postcard setting. Heading
blenny, topknot, goby, lumpfish into town for another meal at the back to the resort, we made a stop
and goldsinny wrasse frequently Café Jazz. Securing a table on the at Middelfart Harbour. Despite the
observed. Nudibranchs are especially patio, we enjoyed pre-dinner drinks midnight hour, the last vestiges of
common during the winter months. as the setting sun silhouetted the sunlight peered above the horizon as
Another trail starts near the Café Jazz Old Little Belt Bridge and painted fishing boats sat motionless on the still
in Middelfart, continuing along the the horizon with crimson tones. A water—another postcard view. That’s
coast right to the dive club. harbour porpoise appeared to com- Denmark for you. 
It is a late mid-summer evening at
The Bottom Contour of Lillebælt (Little Belt) Søbadet by Little Belt when Scott Bennett
(left) takes in the ambience, shooting pho-
tos for his article in this issue. The opposite
Gl. Ålbo
coast shown in the photo is Jutland, the Photos by Lars
peninsular part of Denmark. At this point,
Stenholt Kirkegaard
the strait is about 800m wide.
On the Jutland side, or

the western coast, of
the Little Belt, Gl. Ålbo
Camping is equipped
to cater for divers.
PETER SYMES
h Generalised bottom
Beac
contour along Little Belt
(left). It drops off in distinct
4m steps and ledges. At depth, the
current can sometimes be quite
strong. If caught by the current,
12m do not fight it. Instead, simply
ascend in a calm manner
and swim perpendicular to
the coast. If you end up Cabins with lockers for dive equipment, a diver-friendly
TINE HINDAL
25m a bit farther down the jetty and a filling station has made Gl. Ålbo a popular resort—especially
beach, you just have to Dead man’s fingers, Alcyonium digitatum among divers from Germany, which is just a couple of hours’ drive away.
trot back to your starting (above), is a ubiquitous species of soft coral
40m point... with all your gear. that colonises parts of the walls in Little Belt, Luxury huts & fine dining nearby where everything is provided in just one
as well as other areas where there is a solid Denmark currently does not host dive spot in front of an excellent house reef
substate. The polyps feed at various times of operations in which diving and accom- and fine dining is not far away.
50-80m the day, with their tentacles extended. They
modation is offered in one package, While not a five-star resort, Gl. Ålbo
are suspension feeders gathering plankton
from the water with the help of cilia and as is popular in many other countries, does have modern luxury huts (with
Free Little Belt Guide: Did you know that Little Belt has one of the densest populations absorbing oxygen at the same time. which may be the biggest obstacle up to six beds, loft, kitchenette, bath-
in the world of the smallest whale on earth—the porpoise? Learn more about Little Belt's nature, holding back dive tourism in Denmark room, heated floors and a deck) and
dive sites, beaches, tours, activities, food, restaurants, lodging, arts and attractions in the free from becoming properly established. an 8-bed/2-bath holiday cottage,
112-page e-book (in English/German/Danish) at: e-pages.dk/jfmadhoc/912/ However, Gl. Ålbo is one exception, which are comfortable and clean, with
opportunities to mix
with other divers. See:
Gl-aalbo.dk
A hermit crab takes the Drive to fine dining
shell off a red whelk (left). restaurants in nearby
Hermit crabs will indeed Bjert (11 minutes),
fight over good shells, and Kolding (25 minutes)
a strong crab can wrestle and Fredericia (45
a weaker occupant out its
minutes), including the
shell, if it fancies the shell.
The evicted individual then Micheline-star New
has to scurry about to find Nordic Cuisine restau-
PETER SYMES
a new shell to protect its rant Ti Trin Ned. See:
vunerable rear parts. Long-legged spider crab, Macropodia rostrata, titrinned.dk
has a hairy, or fuzzy, appearance due to algae
PETER SYMES that it applies to itself for camouflage (above).
travel
Between dives, why
not try a culinary
Denmark
adventure with New
Nordic Cuisine in
Denmark?
Toast with turbot, herbs and

vinegar dust (far left) and raw
The New Nordic Cuisine shrimp with seaweed, rhubarb
and herbs (below) at Noma
Text edited by G. Symes (left), the flagship Micheline-
star restaurant in Copenhagen,
Denmark, founded by chefs
The New Nordic Cuisine is a culinary Claus Meyer and René
movement that burst onto the global Redzepi, who pioneered the
gastronomic scene in the early 2000s. TOMISLAV MEDAK / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY 2.0 New Nordic Cuisine
Developed by chefs in Scandinavia, of
which Claus Meyer and René Redzepi
were the pioneering innovators and
founders of the world-renown Noma res-
taurant in Copenhagen (four-time winner
of the “World’s Best Restaurant” title in
Restaurant magazine), the idea was to
revamp traditional local cuisine by using
principles of “purity, simplicity and fresh- CYCLONEBILL / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY-SA 2.0
ness” as well as emphasise seasonal pro-

duce grown or foraged locally, benefitting
from the region’s unique climate, water
and soil, including traditional local favour-
ites such as Danish new potatoes, straw-
berries and asparagus.
In addition, the chefs revived and
adapted older Scandinavian tech-
CYCLONEBILL / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY-SA 2.0
niques, such as marinating, smoking and
salting, as well as prepared local organic
foods such as oats, rapeseed, cheeses
and heirloom varieties of apples and
pears, using methods that maintained
their natural flavours.
Since its inception, the trend has spread
and evolved. In 2004, the Nordic Kitchen
CYCLONEBILL / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY-SA 2.0 SUBHASH ROY / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Manifesto established ten principles based
on “purity, season, ethics, health, sustain-
ability and quality,” written by chefs from
the Nordic lands of Denmark, Sweden,
Norway, Finland, Iceland, Greenland,
Åland and the Faroe Islands.
Today, the aims of the New Nordic move-
ment have been taken up by many chefs
and local kitchens around the world—
revamping traditional dishes and creating
new ones with fresh local, sustainable and
traceable ingredients—as well as gov-
ernments, institutions, agencies, schools, SUBHASH ROY / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
universities, food production and supply New Nordic Cuisine at Geranium (above and
chains, guided by the principles of the center); Heart salad with fresh hazelnuts, apple,
Manifesto.  SOURCES: THE GUARDIAN, NORDIC hazelnut oil, cucumber flowers and white currants © CLAES BECH-POULSEN / VISITDENMARK
CO-OPERATION, VISIT COPENHAGEN, WIKIPEDIA (center left) and white asparagus with poached Several restaurants serve New Nordic Cuisine in Denmark, including Ti Trin Ned
egg yolk and woodland sauce (right) at Noma in Fredericia (above), Hærværk in Aarhus and Geranium in Copenhagen.
CYCLONEBILL / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / CC BY-SA 2.0
WILLIAM LIONEL WYLLIE / PUBLIC DOMAIN
Denmark's Wrecks — A Selection from WWII back to the Age of Sail

Text by Peter Symes. Underwater
photos by René B. Andersen
WWI Battle of Jutland Wrecks

The Battle of Jutland was the largest surface naval battle
ever, in terms of displacement, and the only full-scale clash
of battleships during the First World War. Britain suffered
more casualties and lost more ships than Germany, but
the outcome was
NORDNORDWEST / GFDL
a strategic suc-
cess for the British,
since it resulted
in the success-
ful containment
of the German
HMS Defence Imperial Navy’s
On 31 May 1916, the armoured cruiser HMS Defence, depicted High Seas Fleet.
on the painting above, was sunk after being fired upon by a Of the 249 ships
German battlecruiser and four dreadnoughts. Two salvoes from that fought in the
the German ships detonated her rear magazine, and in turn, her went down with the ship. The wreck is now a designated and pro- Battle of Jutland,
secondary magazines. The ship exploded, with the loss of all men tected resting place. Despite its violent demise, it has been found 25 were sunk.
onboard but one. Between 893 and 903 men were killed and to be largely intact.
Battle of Jutland Flask on HMS Defence
travel
SEA WAR MUSEUM JUTLAND
Sea War Museum Jutland

Thyborøn is a fishing village on Jutland’s North
WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / PUBLIC DOMAIN
Sea coast as well as the location of the Sea
War Museum Jutland. The museum is one of a
kind. The main focus of the museum is the mari-
WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / PUBLIC DOMAIN HMS Queen Mary time warfare in the North Sea during the First
HMS Queen Mary was the last battlecruis- World War, in particular, the “Battle of Jutland.”
er built by the Royal Navy before the First Visit: Seawarmuseum.dk
HMS Invincible World War. The ship never left the North
Sea during the war. During the Battle of
With an overall length of 567ft In connection to the museum, a memorial park
(173m) Invincible was significantly Jutland, she engaged the German battle- for the Battle of Jutland has been erected in
larger than her armoured cruiser cruisers SMS Seydlitz and SMS Derfflinger.
the dunes next to the sea. Visit:
predecessors of the Minotaur class, A shell from Derfflinger ultimately hit for-
ward and detonated one or both of the Jutlandbattlememorial.com
the lead ship of her class of three
battlecruisers. During the Battle of Jutland, Invincible forward magazines, which broke the ship in two near the foremast. A further
suddenly appeared as a clear target before German explosion, possibly from shells breaking loose, shook the aft end of the ship as
battlecruisers Lützow and Derfflinger, which fired three it began to roll over and sink—1,266 crewmen were lost and only 18 survived. Click below to see articles about
Maximum depth is 57m.
salvoes each at Invincible and sank her in 90 seconds. The midships magazine exploded, which blew
the ship in half—1,026 sailors were killed. The wreck rests on a sandy bottom at a depth of 180ft (55m).
the Battle of Jutland in X-Ray Mag
SMS Lützow SMS Frauenlob

Lützow was a German battlecruiser, which was heavily engaged during the Battle of Frauenlob saw little action during the
Jutland. It was involved with the sinking of the British battlecruiser HMS Invincible (see Battle of Jutland, but in one of the chaotic
above) and is sometimes given credit for sinking the armoured cruiser HMS Defence WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / PUBLIC DOMAIN
night engagements as German forces
(previous page). During the battle, she was heavily damaged by heavy-calibre shell tried to disengage and return home,
hits, which led to the flooding of her bow, and she was in serious danger of capsizing. As a result, Frauenlob was hit by a torpedo launched by the cruiser HMS Southampton,
the ship was unable to make the return voyage to Germany. Her crew was evacuated, and she which caused the ship to capsize and sink with the vast majority of her crew. The
was sunk by torpedoes fired by one of her escorts. Depth at her resting place is 43m. wreck sits upright on the seafloor and is largely intact. Maximum depth is 55m.
travel
PETER SYMES
M1108 “Dr Eichelbaum”

M36 “The Inverted”

The WWII German minesweeper was sunk by British Beaufighter bomb-
ers in 1945 and now rests at around 30m at the edge of the deep-
M36 is located in water shipping channel. The often strong currents and the intense
Langeland Strait, which is shipping traffic passing nearby makes this one of the most challeng- ABOVE: Artefacts found on Dr Eichelbaum. In the upper right corner,
the southern part of ing dives. On a good day, it is one of the most impressive wrecks. It there is a crate with code wheels for an Enigma-coding machine.
The Great Belt is nearly 100m long, and still has its gun turrets, torpedo tubes and The Enigma was a top-secret cypher device used by all branches
machine cannon. The propellers and rudder are also impressive. It lies of the German military during WWII. The Germans believed, errone-
on its side, hence it is known as “Den Omvendte” (“The Inverted”). M1108 “Dr Eichelbaum” was an armed
trawler—a fishing vessel converted for ously, that the Enigma machine was so secure that even the most
naval service. Around the onset of WWII, top-secret messages were enciphered on this device. During the
the ship began service in the German war, British cryptologists, led by Alan Turing, decrypted a vast num-
M575 Kriegsmarine’s 11th minesweeping
squadron. On 13 April 1940, when it was
ber of messages enciphered on Enigma. The intelligence gleaned
from this source, codenamed “Ultra” by the British, was a substantial
rammed by the steamer S/S Scandia aid to the Allied war effort. Several movies, docudramas and docu-
in Storebælt (Great Belt) and quickly mentaries have been produced about these events.
sank with the loss of one sailor. While the
wooden wheelhouse seen in the below
photo is no longer there, the rest of the The Law Regarding Finds & Artefacts
wreck is quite intact and sits upright on
PETER SYMES
the bottom. In front of the bow, a long Contrary to wide-
M1108 "Dr Eichelbaum" boom, which was part of the mine- spread belief, a
sweeping equipment, now lies stretched wreck, its cargo
out across the seabed. The hold can be penetrated, but be care- and any arte-
ful because of the accumulated silt. There is a plaque on the deck,
facts that may
in front of the bridge, dedicated to a diver who perished inside. The
parts behind the bridge have lots of details, including the now empty be found on or
davits, which are still in place but missing their lifeboats. Depth is 27m. around wrecks,
M575 Currents are usually not strong in this part of the strait. always have an
owner. There is
WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / PUBLIC DOMAIN no such thing as
an ownerless or
“abandoned”
wreck. There are
only wrecks for which the owner may not be known, or can-
not be immediately identified, but in principle, somebody
owns them. In some cases, it is an insurer.
Get permission: If a wreck is younger than 100 years, permis-

M575 is another WWII German minesweeper sion to retrieve “souvenirs” can be applied for on the Danish
but not a casualty of war, as such. She found- Maritime Authority’s website. (The form is in Danish, sorry).
ered in bad weather on 2 March 1945 after Retrieved artefacts may not be sold. Wrecks and sites that
taking on water and before she could make it are over 100 years old are protected under the “Museum
back to Helsingør, a port at the narrowest point Law,” and artefacts may not be retrieved. This includes loose
of Øresund. The wreck rests on its port side at a depth of 26m, just north of Helsingborg. Visibility
or detached objects laying on the seabed. 
on the wreck varies, and currents can be strong, as it is located in the strait.
travel
RIKSARKIVET / FLICKR COMMONS / PUBLIC DOMAIN
AnAmericanImmersion.com
SS Ostmark Available
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Discover how an oil spill inspired a woman

to undertake a quest to become the first
woman to dive all 50 states and explore vivid
underwater landscapes in this revealing book.
SS Ostmark
U-251 U-251
Type VII U-boats were the most common type of German World War II U-boat. A steamer built in France in 1935 and originally named

The Type VIIC was the workhorse of the German U-boat force, with 568 com- Côte d’Argent, it was commandeered into German ser-
missioned from 1940 to 1945. U-251 was sunk on 19 April 1945 in the Kattegat vice during WWII, equipped with cannons, and renamed SS
by rockets and strafing from eight British and Norwegian Mosquito aircraft, with Ostmark. By 1943, it served as a minelayer. In early 1945, she
the loss of 39 sailors. Four survived. The location is just southeast of the Danish took part in the evacuation of refugees from the Eastern
island of Anholt. The subma- Front. Sunk by British Halifax bombers on 21 April 1945—109
rine rests upright on the sea- of the ship’s complement of 240, perished. Caution: The
bed at a depth of 35m. wreck apparently still holds a significant amount of ammuni-
The conning tower has tion. Depth is 32 to 45m. PHOTOGRAPHY & DESIGN
quite visible battle dam-

age, as does the foredeck.
A hatch is open and so is a
torpedo tube, but penetra-
tion is not recommended
Minos (SS Hellfrid Bissmark)
Minos is one of the more popular and most visited shipwrecks. It was a German steamer, which struck
due to silt inside the sub- a mine in 1939 en route from the German port of Kiel to Malmø, Sweden, with a cargo of nitrate.
marine. The propellers are The shipwreck remains relatively intact, but
still there. Many fish, such WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / PUBLIC DOMAIN
parts of the superstructure have begun to
as cod, usually congregate deteriorate and collapse. It is possible to
around the wreck. enter the cargo hold and boiler room. The
depth at the location is 27m and is usually
not subject to strong currents.
Never before published in book form, see

extraordinary images of the forgotten
American WWII airplanes resting on the
bottom of the Kwajalein Atoll lagoon, from
award-winning underwater photographer
Brandi Mueller. Available on: Amazon.com
SS Hellfrid Bissmark
The entry to Copenhagen's
PETER SYMES
harbour today (right), just

outside of which the battles
took place. On the left is the
citadel and, guarding the
entry, is Trekroner fort. The fort
was an important part of the
Danish line of defense during
the Battle of Copenhagen
in 1801. The fort also was
engaged during the British
attack on Copenhagen in
1807. The area between the
windmills and the moored
warship are now landfill, as
are the parts in the upper left.
This was not to be the end of the more than 400 warships and trans-
Danish-Norwegian conflict with ports carrying more than 29,000
the British. In 1807, similar circum- troops, reached Danish waters
stances led to another British and demanded that the Danes
attack, in the Second Battle of allow their fleet to be taken into
The First Battle of Copenhagen, 2 April 1801. Painting by John Thomas Serres. The city’s towers can just be Copenhagen. British control. The Danes refused,
made out behind the gunsmoke. and hostilities began.
1807
Despite the defeat and loss of The British landed an army in Zea-
Backgrounder: Battles & many ships in the First Battle of

Copenhagen in 1801, Denmark-
Norway (possessing Jutland,
land, which invaded Copenha-
gen, and on 2 September, began
a fierce bombardment of the city
Bombardment of Copenhagen Norway, Greenland, Schleswig-

Holstein, Iceland and several
smaller territories) still maintained
after the Danish king refused to
surrender his fleet. The bombard-
ment included 300 Congreve
During the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars in the early 19th century, a considerable navy. Rockets, which caused fires. Due
two major battles took place off Copenhagen, which left several shipwrecks— to the civilian evacuation, the
Faced with the prospect of normal fire fighting arrangements
some with cannons still onboard—just outside the city and in fairly shallow waters. Napoleon defeating Russia and were ineffective; over a thousand
Prussia, which would lead to buildings were burned. Soon,
At the beginning of 1801, dur- 1801 sea, but still powerfully armed, upon hearing news of the death French control of Baltic fleets, much of the city was in flames,
ing the French Revolutionary The first battle fought on 2 April as a line of floating batteries off of the Russian tsar, as it meant the British felt compelled to take and the Danes, suffering heavy
Wars that pitted France against 1801, came about over British the eastern coast of the island of they could cut their ties with the action and pre-empt the sub- civilian casualties, were forced to
Great Britain, Britain’s principal fears that the powerful Danish Amager, in front of the city in the French without fear of retaliation stantial Danish navy from siding surrender on 7 September.
advantage over France was its fleet would ally with France. As King’s Channel (a shipping lane by Russia. with the French. Although osten-
naval superiority. The Russian Tsar the British ships closed in on Co- leading to the port). sibly neutral, Denmark was under Denmark agreed to surrender
Paul, having been a British ally, penhagen, in whose harbour the Of the Danish ships engaged in heavy French pressure to pledge its navy and its naval stores. In
arranged a League of Armed Danish fleet was anchored, sev- The Danish fleet defended the the battle, two had sunk, one had its fleet to Napoleon. Britain also return, the British undertook their
Neutrality, comprising Denmark, eral Danish ships stationed in the capital with these ships and bas- exploded, and twelve had been had valuable trading interests departure of Copenhagen within
Sweden, Prussia and Russia, to city’s inlet formed a blockade. tions on both sides of the harbour captured. As the British could not in the Baltic, which was a vital six weeks. On 21 October, the
enforce free trade with France. Most of the Danish ships were not inlet. Eventually, the battle swung spare men for manning prizes, as source of naval supplies. British fleet left Copenhagen for
The British viewed the League to fitted for sea but were moored decisively to the British, as their they suspected that further bat- the United Kingdom. 
be very much in the French inter- along the shore with old ships superior gunnery took effect. The tles were to come, eleven of the In early August 1807, a British
est and a serious threat. (hulks), no longer fit for service at Danish agreed to the British terms captured ships were burned. expeditionary force, comprising
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Fløyte Træ Vrag

Fløyte Træ Vrag (Dutch Fluyt)
Kanonvraget (Cannon Wreck) The fluyt was a dedicated cargo vessel designed by the
This wreck lies at a depth of only Dutch in the 16th century to maximize available cargo space;
nine to 12m of water, which is often it was cheap to build and could be handled by a small crew.
NORDNORDWEST / GFDL
above the thermocline. Thus, it is This vessel probably sank during the Great Northern War (1700–
often in winter, when there is little 1721) only 2.5km from the port of Helsingør and the narrow-
planktonic algae, that one gets est point of Øresund. The wreck, which lies at a depth of just
the best visibility. Despite 16m, was only located in 1994. It has probably only become
its position in a busy strait, WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / PUBLIC DOMAIN exposed in recent times and is now at risk of being broken down and
the wreck was not located consumed by shipworm.
until 2002. The identity of
the wreck has not yet
been established. The ship
is estimated to have been
approximately 48m long,
and due to the 16 large
Kanonvraget 12 to 14-pounder iron can-
nons that now lie
scattered about
on the wreck,
the Swedish
archaeologists
who found the
wreck assumed it was Floating naval battery during
from the First Battle of the Battle of Copenhagen.
Copenhagen in 1801. Painting by Christian Mølsted
However, according to
Danish marine archaeolo-
gists, there are no vessels
from this battle known to
Sværdfisken
have wrecked in the mid-
dle of the Sound. Another (The Swordfish)
theory has it that it is the The wreck is also known as “Kanonprammen,” which loosely translates to “The Cannon
frigate Charlotte, which Barge.” It was part of the line of defence during the battle of 1801, with its position
foundered in 1737, in marked on the map on the previous page. Its armament comprised eighteen to
about this location, but twenty 24-pounder cannons. The barge was commanded by second-lieutenant S.S.
her length is believed to Sommerfeldt, as it came under fire from HMS Edgar and HMS Ganges. It burned and
have been 36 to 40m, sank in a position north of Flakfortet, a sea fort located on the artificially built island of
and armed with six- Saltholmrev in Øresund, between Copenhagen and Saltholm. The wreck re-emerged
pounder cannons, so it is after the construction of the Øresund bridge and tunnel link between Copenhagen
probably not her either. and Malmö, Sweden, which probably caused currents and sand to shift about.
Sværdfisken
PETER SYMES

Marine Archaeology — Discoveries in Denmark
Trading and transport by sea
goes back to prehistoric times.
Stone Age settlements and
canoes, Viking ships, medieval
cogs, fluyts, tall ships, warships,
defence systems, jetties, har-
bour installations and aircraft
wrecks—Denmark has got it all.
Archaeology is concerned with the
excavation, surveying and protection
of historical artefacts, both on land and
under the sea. The findings provide an
important key to our understanding of
shipbuilding traditions, trade and life in
the past, and political and military con-
frontations.
Two important and frequent types of
finds made underwater in Denmark are
Stone Age settlements and shipwrecks.
Denmark has been populated since
the glaciers retreated after the last ice
MARINE – ARKÆOLOGISK – GRUPPE
MARINE – ARKÆOLOGISK – GRUPPE

THE VIKING SHIP MUSEUM IN ROSKILDE
age. At that time, the geography was connected to Britain as

much different, and the country was big swathes of the North
unrecognizable from the outline it has Sea were dry land that
today. Nine thousand years ago, the sea were settled by Stone
surface was 30m lower than it is today Age communities as
because of the ice age. described in our feature
What is now the Danish west coast “The Drowned Lands of
The unfinished amber amulet has and eastern North Sea shoreline was Doggerland,” published A Stone Age fishing hook sticks out of the bottom of
clear incisions and a drilled hole. Decoration on Stone Age canoe paddle (reconstruction) the Gamborg fjord, a sidearm to Lillebælt (Little Belt)
travel
PETER SYMES
Musings on a Visit to the Viking Ship Museum

Text by Catherine GS Lim remains of five ships that were deliberate-
ly sunk around 1070 to serve as defence
Vikings. As someone who grew against enemy forces and to block the
up surrounded by sedate con- fairway. Known as the Skuldelev ships,
they were excavated in 1962. Today,
crete buildings in a meticulously around 950 years later, they serve as a
planned urban environment testament to the ingenuity and resilience
in Singapore, I knew very little of the Viking people.
about them. I had never learnt To think that such massive (and sturdy!)
Storstrømmen is the strait ships could be built using simple hand
separating the islands of about them in school, nor were tools without any Industrial Age machin-
Falster and Zealand. they part of my usual literary ery. And that the hulls of the ships (barring
Storstrømmen and the bridge from 1937, which is corroding and going to be replaced with a new one. diet (well, barring Hagar The some missing strakes and disintegrated
wood portions) were still fairly intact to
Horrible).

this day… To say that I was amazed was
an understatement.
Thus, as the car I was in neared the Viking
Ship Museum in Roskilde, I felt some Viking life
degree of agitation. Was I headed for an As the afternoon drew on, I learnt more
afternoon filled with crippled ships with about the living conditions on the ships
broken masts, long cannons and blood- and the life within the Viking community. I
ied chainmail? (Hmm, it seems that I ventured out into the outdoor yard where
had somehow acquired an impression of visitors could try their hand at the differ-
Vikings being the sort to go around raid- ent shipbuilding techniques. All aspects of
ing villages in the countryside. I wonder seafaring and shipbuilding were covered.
how that happened…) There was even a replica of a Viking ship
Axehead from the “flintwork- Handle from an axe. It was broken some time Lower jaw of a red deer. Like many other animal bones As soon as I stepped onto the museum that one could hop on (I did!), and pos-
er’s workshop” during the Stone Age and then discarded. found on this settlement, it had been charred by fire. premises, the atmosphere was serene sible sessions to actually ride on (read
and peaceful, yet with an air of excite- “row”) a Viking ship.
ment and anticipation. Under a cloudy As I left the Viking Ship Museum that
sky, a breeze from Roskilde Fjord brought day, I came away with a new respect
forth a welcoming whiff. I spotted a boat for the Viking people. They were a fear-
with a high mast stationed nonchalantly less and proud seafaring people, a strong
in the waters. innovative community with deep-seated
It was fully intact with zero battle scars. values of family and kinsmen. Yes, there
Feeling slightly confused, I entered the were warriors, raiders and conquerors, but
museum building. beside them lived tradesmen, merchants,
farmers, hunters, mothers, fathers, chil-
Five Viking ships dren… just like any other well-developed
The Viking Ship Museum houses the and structured society. 
The Kalderev Ship (left), which was found in Storstrømmen, is dated to about 1250-65 AD. The
PHOTO MOSAIC: MASSIMILIANO DITTA AND MATKO CVRLJAK / THE VIKING SHIP MUSEUM IN ROSKILDE archaeologists use a so-called “orthophotomosaic” technique to produce overviews of the pre-
served parts of ships “in-situ”(where they are found). This photo mosaic was compiled with over
in issue #61. At that time, the Danish along coastlines and been occupied artefacts of perishable materials. That is 900 still photos and can also be seen in 3D-footage on the Viking Ship Museum's website.
Straits did not exist, as the Baltic Sea was with hunting and fishing. It also appears why many well preserved items of wood
a freshwater lake until 9,500 to 8,000 that their main mode of transportation are found underwater, whereas they Archaeologists estimate that the For instance, one was found right under
years ago, when rising sea levels broke was by water. are seldom preserved on land. Hence, remains of some 20,000 Stone Age settle- the most popular beach in Copenhagen,
through the Dana River, forming the Around 7000 BC, the ice melted rapid- a large part of the cultural heritage has ments are to be found in Danish coastal Amager Strand, and recently, another
Great Belt. ly. Coastal settlements were flooded and been found underwater where artefacts waters. Many such settlements have one was discovered right outside the
But as long as people have lived were gradually covered by protective have lain protected in the seabed, often been found during field surveys conduct- leisure boat marina in Tuborg Havn (har-
in these changing landscapes, they layers of sediment, providing good pres- for millennia, awaiting their discovery by ed prior to extensions of ports, building of bour). Other surveys, such as the tran-
seemed to have predominantly settled ervation conditions for tools and other professional or amateur archaeologists. bridges and other infrastructure projects. sects performed prior to laying down
VIKING SHIP MUSEUM IN ROSKILDE
Battle of Fehmarn Belt 1644, 17th c. painting by Jan Van der Velde (above); This ship-
wreck (top right), located in just 3.5m of water off the southern coast of Lolland, is prob-
ably that of the Danish warship Delmenhorst, which burned and sank during the Battle of
the Fehmarn Belt in 1644; Cannonballs have been found in four different sizes for the ship’s
cannons, as well as exploded pieces of cannons and musket bullets (lower right inset).
cables or pipe- where amateur archaeologists were left The old bridge Archaeologists also
MORTEN JOHANSEN / VIKING SHIP MUSEUM

IN ROSKILDE, DENMARK
lines, have often frustrated that they were not allowed to that carries the made finds from daily
also stumbled salvage artefacts, which have become railroad over life on the ship, includ-
right into ancient exposed and in risk of destruction. the strait dates ing a calculation coin
wrecks. Marine-Arkæologisk-Gruppe (Marine from 1937 and (right), a flat coin
used as a simple but
Archaeology Group) is such a group of is about to be
effective type of cal-
Protected dedicated amateur marine archaeolo- replaced with MORTEN JOHANSEN / VIKING SHIP MUSEUM IN ROSKILDE, DENMARK
culator at the time.
Fehmarn Belt is the strait artefacts gists, which deserves a special mention in a new bridge,
separating the Danish Stone Age set- this regard. It is a dive club based in the which will cross an area where impor- be constructed across Fehmarn Belt con-
island of Lolland from thetlements, ship- town of Kolding, and one of the member tant finds have been previously made. necting Denmark and Germany, which
German island Fehmark. wrecks, defence clubs of the Danish Sportdiver Federation Archaeological investigations soon will replace the current ferry link between
systems, jetties, (DSF). This group, which has extensive discovered an 8,000-year-old settlement Rødbyhavn and Puttgarten.
harbour installations and aircraft wrecks expertise and experience in this field, has under 5m of water in Storstrømmen, with
are artefacts of great historical impor- over several decades made several sig- large quantities of rare artefacts and Battle of Fehmarn wrecks
tance and are therefore protected nificant archaeological findings, which exceptional preservation conditions. Already during early surveys in 2012,
under the Danish Museum Act. As such, it have been described in the relevant When the settlements were inhabited, archaeologists discovered the wrecks In more recent years, yet another ship-
is exclusively professional marine archae- peer-reviewed scientific journals. For Storstrømmen was a deep valley with of Lindormen and Swarte Arent—both wreck from the Battle of Fehmarn—the
ologists from the museums who may example, it was their discovery that Stone running streams and wetlands, and the lost during the Battle of Fehmarn (1644), remains of the long-lost Danish warship
investigate and excavate submerged rel- Age canoe paddles were decorated maritime archaeologists found a rich which took place northwest of the island Delmenhorst—have been discovered in
ics. Everyone else may only observe and with intricate patterns - see page 36. assortment of animal and fish bones that of Fehmarn. It was in this battle that a just 3.5m of water and just 150m from the
take photographs but not touch. indicated that people lived on resources combined Swedish-Dutch fleet resoundly shore of the southern coast of the island
To a large extent, this requirement Finds in Eastern Denmark from both the forest and the sea. defeated a Danish fleet. The Danes lost of Lolland in Denmark. It is the last Danish
just makes sense. But the rigid way it In the eastern part of Denmark, it is In conjunction with the same investiga- twelve ships, of which ten were captured. sunken ship missing from the fateful bat-
has been interpreted or administered the Viking Ship Museum that holds the tions prior to the construction of the new The Swedish fire ship Meerman was tle. The Delmenhorst was intentionally
in the latter years has prevented quali- responsibility to safeguard all archaeo- bridge across Storstrømmen, a Medieval sent against the Danish Lindormen, grounded near Rødbyhavn, in the final
fied members of the engaged amateur logical artefacts and to conduct surveys ship from the 13th century was also dis- which quickly caught fire and exploded. hours of the battle, because the Danes
archaeological community to continue and excavation of sites of interest. covered, which may provide a missing Swarte Arent was a Dutch ship and the hoped to defend it using a massive can-
to assist and work under the supervision The direct route between link between the slender Viking ships and only vessel that the combined Swedish- non in the harbour town.
of the professional archaeologists and Copenhagen and Germany is the bulkier vessels of the Middle Ages, Dutch fleet lost. Both wrecks have been These finds are but examples of the sites
museums. As there is a dire shortage of a road and rail link that crosses which could carry more cargo. located at a depth of 24m in the middle and wrecks that have been discovered
professional underwater archaeologists, Storstrømmen—a strait between the Farther south and along the same road of Fehmarn Belt and were found to be in during field surveys taking place ahead of
this has frequently also led to situations islands of Sjælland (Zealand) and Falster. and rail link to Germany, a tunnel is to “excellent condition.” just one infrastructure project. 
M/F Ærøsund: From Ferry to Artificial Reef PETER SYMES
Text by Peter Symes. Photos by Peter menced. I am The sinking of the Ærøsund ferry (right) in 2014 was a big SDU
Symes & Lars Stenholt Kirkegaard not sure if some media event in Denmark, with a large public audience
explosive charges in attendance as well as numerous ships and sailboats
M/F Ærøsund is a former ferry went off or some (above); Diver on the Ærøsund wreck (left and below)
that served the islands in the plug was pulled,

but nothing much
South Funen archipelago. It was appeared to be
scuttled in 2014 in a sheltered happening.
bay just 550m off Funen’s south- We were stand-
ern coastline where it now rests ing up squint-
ing even harder To see a cool video of the sinking of the Ærøsund, click
at a depth of only 19m. It is eas- now to make out below image: youtube.comwatch?v=pjBRtVOaJfI
ily visible from the surface. what went on

those 550m out to LARS STENHOLT KIRKEGAARD
I remember attending the sinking, which sea. Was it sitting
was a much-hyped media event. News deeper in the water now? Was it listing? Objectives
helicopters were whizzing about like giant We were literally on our toes, anxious not The purpose of scuttling
wasps and an armada of leisure crafts to miss any of expected spectacle when the ferry was to improve
encircled the ferry, which was anchored it went down. We stood there, with our the natural environment
in its designated sinking spot, await- gazes fixed on the ferry in the distance by creating a new reef in an area that municating local maritime cultural his-
ing the scuttling. We were far out in the for 5, 10, 20 minutes, without seeing any lacked any reef formations—the sur- tory in an innovative way—a point in
countryside and had to go down many movement, after which our calves start- rounding seabed was soft and rather which I, however, fail to see the logic.
small winding side roads to make it to ed to hurt, and we sat down. featureless. The other objective was to
a camping ground in the south-eastern Then, after some 45 to 50 minutes, the create a unique setting for safe training Diving the wreck
corner of the island of Funen (or “Fyn,” vessel appeared to list a bit and was sit- in diving and penetration of shipwrecks. Diving the ferry is as straightforward
in Danish)—a short distance west of the ting deeper, albeit hardly noticeable. Being the only location of its kind in as it gets, as it lies perfectly upright in a something does not go according to
lovely town of Svendborg. Next, within a few moments, it started to Denmark, it was expected to be highly sheltered area, well away from shipping plan. Over half a kilometre is a long swim
As we sat there on the beach squint- go down fast, some sprays of mist were sought-after by dive clubs and dive lanes and much boat traffic. One just in case of an equipment malfunction,
ing in the bright sunlight, we were ejected from the innards and suddenly shops offering dive training. needs a boat ride, say, with a dive cen- unforeseen change in weather for the
among quite a crowd, some of which it was gone. It went under so fast and Another of the stated objectives was to tre or a club. worse, or being in some sort of distress.
had brought camping chairs and tables, without any of the hoped-for drama that stimulate a much-needed development I suppose the 550m from the coast to A big buoy is chained to the wreck,
making a right picnic out of the event it caught us by surprise. It was a bit of an of local coastal tourism by attracting the wreck and back could be swum by a which is easily visible from above. The
and entertainment. At the top of the anti-climax. However, we did witness it, both Danish and foreign diving tourists— fit diver on a calm day. However, I would ship’s funnel reaches up to just 6m below
hour, in the early afternoon, a siren toot- and it was otherwise a wonderful day to particularly during the off-peak season. not recommend being without the sup- the surface. The shot line under the buoy
ed signalling that the sinking has com- be out and about. Also mentioned as a purpose was com- port you can get from a boat in case leads down to the foredeck, right in
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Denmark
FACT FILE
M/F Ærøsund was a Danish ferry,

which served the route between
Ærøkøbing and Svendborg from 1960
to 1999, after which it was replaced
by a modern ferry. Ærøsund was built
by Husumer Schiffswerft in Germany,
as build number 1118 and launched
in 1960. It was rebuilt in 1970.
Length: 55.26m
Width: 9.32m
Height (without masts): 13m
Tonnage: 396 BRT
Deadweight: 221 ton
Engines: 2 x Mak Mau 423, 800 HP
Speed: 13 knots
Passengers: 700
Cars: 40
THIS PAGE: Scenes from a dive on the Ærøsund wreck
front of the wheelhouse, which is a good regard to no-

point to start exploring the wreck. The decompression
car deck, which also has rails for trains, limits and gas
is wide open and can most easily be consumption. It is
entered through the bow port, which a quite uncompli-
is a big opening. cated dive. That
said, one should
Caution never slack on
In this regard, a piece of advice here is any aspects of
pertinent: As fine silt has accumulated preparation,
inside the car deck, caution must be equipment and safety, regardless of • Motors, pistons, screws, propeller shafts, and rooms below
exercised when entering, because of how shallow or easy a dive may appear. fuel, oil and lubricants. deck.
the risk of a silt-out, in case this sediment
gets kicked up, which can lead to losing Decontamination • Windows and rubber mouldings, floor • Any loose paint,
sight of an exit and disorientation. Do not and diver safety linoleum, insulating material and doors. and most of the
enter if you are not prepared, trained Prior to the scuttling, M/F Ærøsund went ferry’s outer paint
and equipped for such an eventually. If through comprehensive environmental • Tiles, sinks, toilets, furniture and kitchen matrix. than 100 tonnes, including the motors,
you swim through, stay well clear of the decontamination to ensure the safety of appliances and equipment. which are currently in use on the other
deck and be mindful of not disturbing the wreck for diving. This decontamina- In addition to these items being side of the globe. Following the decon-
the silt. It is not just a matter of safety, as tion abided by a report produced by the • Asbestos, cables, lead ballast, elec- removed, large holes were carved into tamination process, more than 300
it also ruins the visibility for the next diver. environmental consulting group, COWI, tronics and hydraulics, wood covering the ferry’s deck, sides and bulkheads, tonnes of sand was placed into the bot-
The deepest point is the rudder at based on analyses of all components of and car deck sealants. creating entry and exit points for divers. tom of the ferry in order to trim and sta-
19m, the car deck is at 16m, and the the ferry. As a result, the following objects Selected stairs and walls were also bilise it.  SOURCE: DESTINATION SYDFYN
bridge and saloon are at only 12m. As were removed: • Bottom paint containing TBT and tar removed for the same reason.
such, it provides plenty of latitude in from the sides and walls of lounges In total, the ship was stripped of more
Plumose anemone on the
Øresund & Isefjord

Hven Prammen wreck
Denmark's
Diving in Denmark, how does
it really measure up? As one
of my good friends and diving
partners usually says: We are
Text and photos by
lucky with a lot of things living
Morten Bjørn Larsen
here in Denmark, but if you like
cycling in the mountains, skiing
or diving in warm waters... then
you are not super well-placed
as a Dane. I myself usually see
my dives in Denmark as train-
ing, understood in terms that if
you can complete a wreck dive
in Øresund and come up with a
useful picture or two and a big
smile on your face, then you are
as well prepared as you can be
to dive the rest of the world.
When we were struck, as if by lightning

from a clear blue sky, by Covid-19, my
five to ten dives per year in Denmark sud-
denly became quite a few more. Due to
travel restrictions, there was nowhere else
to go but to our own domestic waters
where the urge to dive could be satis-
fied. As a Danish proverb says, there is
nothing that is so bad that it is not good
for something. By that I mean that in
2020/2021, my eyes have been opened
more and more to the fact that there are
actually a lot of cool dive sites and differ-
ent types of diving to be had here—and
for my own interest as an underwater
photographer, there are a lot of good
photo opportunities in Denmark, which I
probably would not have discovered, if
not we had not been hit by the corona-
virus pandemic.
I have always lived in Copenhagen, ed, is not so big that you cannot drive a Øresund that one enters the Baltic Sea under the former Russian communist in the late 1980s, it was no longer defen-
which is next to Øresund, the strait little way north or south to find a beach and and Swedish waters. It is the wreck regime. Vapper is a type of trawler that sible, economically or environmentally,
that separates Denmark and Sweden. or a fjord where the wind does not hiss of Vapper. was built for the purpose of trawling the to have these fish factories in operation.
Therefore, I naturally do many of my too loudly for diving. seabed, and at the same time, could put Therefore, Vapper was sold for scrapping
dives in Øresund. But when the weather I am not the most experienced wreck Vapper wreck the catch directly in the can. That kind in Dubai.
shows its teeth and it blows too much diver in Denmark, but I have some favou- Vapper is a former fishing trawler, also of predatory fishing was, of course, by While Vapper was being towed
for diving in Øresund, then the island of rite wrecks in Øresund—especially one known as a fish factory. Vapper was built no means sustainable. So, at the same towards its final port in Dubai on 19
Zealand, on which Copenhagen is locat- that is actually located so far south in in Germany in 1974 but sailed for Estonia time as the fall of the communist regime December 1994, the tow rope broke in
travel
Located in the mouth of the Baltic Sea, south of Falsterbo in Denmark, the Vapper is 102m in
length and 16m in width.
severe weather. I have heard stories that at least two dives on the same day. I a flash behind the propel-
the Russians had a particular tendency to once tried to do it in one dive once, ler, while I, at the same
“lose” their ships on the way during tow- when the viz was about one meter, and time, from the opposite
ing—surely after the payment had been it was a shame, of course, because then side of the propeller, tried
dropped... But that might be just a caper the first-time Vapper divers could not to take photos of a diver
story. At any rate, it has at least provided get the right “wow” feeling for the size in silhouette against the
us with a really good wreck to dive. of the wreck. But apart from that one green water around him. It
day of bad visibility, I have mostly expe- worked out fairly well, but it
Diving the wreck rienced fairly good visibility, for Danish is actually a picture I would
From 1995 to the year 2000, diving was waters, to be something like 10 metres. In very much like to go back
banned on the Vapper wreck, due to terms of relatively decent visibility, wind and try to do better.
the danger of oil spills. In the early years, and weather, these were dives we did in
it was easy to find the wreck as the top September and October. Aft deck. In the aft
of the masts still stuck a few feet above If you take a tour around the wreck, deck, you can find some
the water. However, the first time I dived there is plenty to look at. The chute in the descent holes that lead down to the because the hatches and doors have
the Vapper in 2007, they were removed. aft deck, where the large nets filled with fish factory itself. In the fish factory, you been removed so that natural light can
But to the top of the bridge, which was the day’s catch were once hauled up, is will find the equipment that was used better penetrate the space. Considering
only at six meters depth, a beautiful sight. If you swim to get the catch ready for resale. You Vapper’s size, there are definitely many
NORDNORDWEST / GFDL
clear markers had been over the edge of the chute must, of course, have a couple of good other penetration options that I still have
tied. Vapper is truly a and down to the bottom, you dive lights with you down there, and be yet to try. But it will have to wait until
Donald Duck type of wreck, will find the screw propeller, careful not to kick up too much silt. But it sometime when I can dive Vapper with
standing upright on the which protrudes, free of the is definitely a fun experience to see the someone who knows the interior well
sandy bottom. And with the sand, at a depth of 24m. old conveyor belts and refrigerators and enough that it is safe to make the trip
top at six meters depth and freezers down in the fish factory. through the wreck’s interior.
the bottom at 25m, Vapper Underwater photography.
can be dived by most peo- If you like to take pictures, Wheelhouse. Even if you are not certified Deck. Up on the deck itself, you will also
ple with a hankering for a then the whole area down for wreck penetration, you can easily get find big game, the remains of davits and
good Danish wreck dive. by the propeller is a good into the wheelhouse and look around. two large funnels, plus many other inter-
It is a large wreck, so I place for subjects. I once It is not dark in there, both since it is not esting details. Large parts of the wreck
always recommend doing spent most of a dive placing deeper than about 10 meters and also are covered by a layer of mussels, which
Vapper wreck
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Plumose anemone colonies on the Hven Prammen wreck
is very characteristic of the Baltic Sea. a large camera, we have learned from Prammen begins at a depth of about
If the visibility is good, you should also experience that when there is current 20m, but already at 15m, the current often
try descending to kneel on the bottom, in Øresund, it is clearly best to let others disappears. It is really nice to be able to
looking up towards the bow. It is a beau- without a camera—or in other words— relax and enjoy the wreck, which appears
tiful sight to see the wreck towering up with free hands, to go first to tie on, and before you, at the end of the anchor. At
against the light. then you descend as the second or this point, it can be very nice to take a
third team member. We have, of course, brief pause, still tied to the downline, just
Hven Prammen clipped our cameras to a D-ring on our to adjust your camera settings and the
Another one of my absolute favou- vests, so we will be able to use our hands flash, before you continue diving further.
rite wrecks, Hven Prammen, is located without losing our lovely hobby toys, in
in Øresund itself. When you reach its case a situation arises when both hands Navigation. From the sonar image, you
position, the sonar scanner will show are needed. But as a starting point, I can see that if you follow the wreck
quite clearly that it is a barge. A com- would rather hold onto my camera gear around its hull, then you simply have to
pletely square formation while descending down an turn when you encounter a 90-degree
NORDNORDWEST / GFDL
appeared on the screen, anchor rope in current. The angle. That way, you will always end
when our dive boat actual process of attaching up back at the anchor, after the fourth
maneuvered over the a line to the right place on a turn. It can be a safe way to navigate, if
Hven Prammen to drop wreck in Øresund, where visi- it is a day when visibility is not as good.
anchor. I thinks it gives you bility is not always super, is also But if you hit one of the good viz days
a little extra excitement just a little more cumbersome in Øresund, you can easily explore the
and desire to descend with a large camera in tow. wreck a little more.
and explore the wreck When you start descending If you descend to one corner of the
when you have just seen a to the wreck, it may require a wreck, you will see that it is overgrown
clear outline of the wreck bit of fin work to get down to sporadically with frilled anemones, while,
you are about to dive on. Hven Prammen without pulling at the same time, metal surfaces are also
If you have to dive with too much on the anchor. Hven visible. It is very similar to a huge box right
Diver in the Hven Prammen wreck in Øresund Hven Prammen wreck
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Diver on the Anemone Wreck, which is a barge (above and top

right); The bow (top left); Close-ups of anemones (right and left);
Red rockfish over colony of plumose anemone on wreck (below)
enter. The growth on the ceil- The Anemone Wreck

ing here is really beautiful. It The anemone wreck is one
is not possible to put a hand of the most visited wrecks in Behind the bow, one should also take
anywhere on the ceiling with- Øresund, and with good rea- a good look for rockfish that live on the
out hitting and damaging a son! The anemone wreck is a wreck. I always enjoy seeing the beauti-
dahlia or plumose anemone. concrete barge with a bow, ful red fish, which have unfortunately
I do not know much about as it is called. The anemone been overfished for a number of years.
marine biology, so I do not wreck sailed in 1948, and you But as there are now fishing restrictions
know out why they thrive so can see the collision hole in in place, hopefully they are on their way
well on that ceiling—inside a the side of the wreck. It may back to their natural numbers.
wreck where there is never well be worthwhile to take a
an honest ray of sunshine, Visibility. The best opportunities for good
and well, there cannot be look in and around the collision visibility on the Anemone Wreck are in
there in the middle of the sand. If you much current bringing nourishment. But hole, where there are regularly the spring. If you are lucky, you can hit
swim a little farther, around the next cor- it certainly looks nice when you tilt your some cod hiding. very good visibility around
NORDNORDWEST / GFDL
ner, some large columns appear. These dive torch to light up the lushly deco- Easter, so you can easily
columns go from the bottom and up to rated ceiling. Thereafter, it is easy to dive Bow. If you take get a good overview of
the deck. The columns are very nicely around the last part, and find the anchor a tour out to the the wreck. But it is also a
overgrown with anemones in brilliant silhouetted against the light and the bow, you just worthwhile experience to
orange, red and white. beautiful green water. have to dive a lit- dive the Anemone Wreck
Of course, be forewarned, Øresund tle into the green in normal Øresund viz. The
Pillars. At the pillars, it is also possible will never be like Truk Lagoon! But and turn around, slightly gloomy atmosphere
to dive inside and continue up through the joy of a good wreck dive in the and take a look that bad viz provides,
something that has probably been a Øresund and the subsequent coffee at the bow which mixed with all the beauti-
cargo hold. After a good photo op at and caper stories on the way to the is covered in a ful life that is always on the
the pillars, continue a bit farther to find harbour with your dive buddies, is abso- beautiful frilled wreck, is simply unique to
some hatch holes that you can easily lutely also top notch! anemone colors. Denmark!
Anemone Wreck
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CLOCKWiSE: At Munkholm Bridge: Flabellina nudi-

branch; Diver by the pylons under the bridge; Beach
entrance to the dive site; Numerous colourful starfish
and masses of shrimp can be found by the pylons.
Munkholmbroen or we just
As previously mentioned, wind or want a fun
current can be an obstacle to shallow dive
being able to get out by boat in with good
Øresund. Fortunately, this does macro sub-
not have to be a problem in jects, is the
Denmark, because Munkholm Bridge that issues if you dive under or near can help one
NORDNORDWEST / GFDL
the distances here crosses the Isefjord in the Munkholm Bridge. There may another with dive
are not so great northwestern Zealand. be a little current when water is equipment in
that one cannot A dive at a bridge forced into the Isefjord, but it is peace. If this is the
plan a different pier may sound like rarely more than a couple of fin first time you dive
kind of dive for the something with great kicks can handle. And the depth at the Munkholm
same day, when depth and a cur- at the bridge piers does not reach Bridge, it may be a good idea to Pylons. When you dive down underwater. This provides just
it was set aside for rent that can peel further than five meters, so there is surface swim to the first bridge pil- along the bridge piers, you will the right amount space to be
diving anyway. the regulator out of also no reason to calculate extra lar—it does not take more than be able to see that each pylon able to swim through the bridge
One of the plac- your mouth and the air for a decompression stop. a minute. That way, you do not is not cast as a solid block, as it piers. If you want to lie down and
es we like to go to mask off your face, have to lie down to look for the may appear to be from the sur- play with swimming through the
when either the but you do not need Beach entrance. The dive itself bridge piers, as you would if you face, but that each one stands pylons, be very careful, because
weather teases, to fear any of these starts at the beach, where you had started diving at the beach. on top of several smaller pylons there is a myriad of life in the
Munkholm Bridge
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Marine isopod
on anemone
(right); Crab
feeding on small
At Munkholm Bridge: Skeleton shrimp fish (left)
(above); Diver under the pylons (top
center); Eubranchus rupium nudi-
branch (right) (National Institute of Aquatic Øresund will soon be desig-
Resources at the Technical nated a marine protected area
spaces in-between, which can University of Denmark) and DCE under the EU Marine Strategy
easily be damaged by a fin or (National Center for Environment Framework Directive. At the
other contact. and Energy) have found that same time, there is talk that the
Even if you dive in broad day- today there are far more fish entire Øresund area should be a
light, a dive torch or light is a species and benthic animals at Danish/Swedish naval park. Which
good idea. Not because it is Læsø than there were before means that the ban on bottom
dark in such shallow waters, but the re-establishment of the rock trawling from 1932 onwards will be
because the cone of the dive reef. The project is called Blue rooted in environmental legisla-
light can reveal a lot of small crit- Reef and is led by the Danish tion in the future.
ters. On the pylons themselves, Nature Agency. So, not only will these projects,
thousands of sea urchins, plumose eelpout and especially cuttlefish Greener future WWF-Denmark has worked In March 2021, the Danish plus many others, give the sea
and dahlia anemones grow. glide merrily around everywhere Danish waters have for many intensely to remove the many Fisheries Association, in collabora- peace to recover, we will also
Inside the holes, shrimp live—so along the bottom. years been hard pressed by fish- ghost nets, so that they no longer tion with the Danish Society for have cleaner and clearer water
many that in autumn and winter, If you have time, you can dive ing, dredging and discharge of lie as eternal death traps on the Nature Conservation, made a to dive in, with many more ani-
it looks like an anthill of shrimp. If all the way to the shore. Towards toxic wastewater. But in recent seabed, wrecks and rocky reefs. proposal to the government to mal species to see and experi-
you look around the bottom of sunset, the bottom begins to years, from many sides, many In 2008, the state placed protect ten percent of the marine ence. In the future, hopefully
the pylons, there are starfish sport- come alive. Just before you reach good and important projects 10,000 tonnes of rock from areas of the North Sea, Baltic Sea many more divers from abroad
ing all the colours of the rainbow. the shore, there is a belt of sea- have begun to be launched, Norway onto the seafloor, north- and Skagerrak as a totally pro- will also want to come and try
But perhaps the most beautiful grass, which is also a good idea for the protection, conservation east of the island of Læsø, to re- tected area. The purpose of the submerging their heads in our
are the yellow corals called dead to investigate, as there is a lot of and reconstruction of our seas establish a rocky reef. Biological proposal is to cater for both sus- beautiful green waters! 
man’s fingers. Crabs, viviparous life hidden in the grasses. around Denmark. studies carried out by DTU Aqua tainable fishing and nature areas.
PETER SYMES
Picturesque setting of Slåensø, which is located in the Lake Highland region of Jutland
Slåensø means Slåen Lake. Originally, more. In particular, it is known for its rich
it was called Slaugen Sø, and the term and varied aquatic flora. It is one of the
“slaugen” comes from the Old Norse only locations in the country where you
term “slagna,” meaning “springs.” can find all the species of aquatic vas-
The lake, which is about one kilometre cular plants in Denmark, of which there
PETER SYMES
long and 275m at its widest point, is also are some 70 to 80, depending on which
A mix of rooted vascular aquatic plants, potamogeton species, Canadian pondweed and hornwort species (seen in this image) stabilises known for it is high biodiversity of fish, source you consult.
the lakebed of Slåensø, provides oxygen through photosyntesis, and constitutes a physical habitat for fishes, amphibeans and insects. insects, reptiles, amphibians, plants and
Slåensø: Freshwater Diving

Denmark's
Text by Peter Symes. Photos by Denoting it as a highland is a bit of the country.

Peter Symes and René B. Nielsen an embellishment, causing some Somewhat tucked away inside the
Scandinavian brethren in Norway and hilly terrain of the Sønderskov wood, we
Approximately right in the cen- Sweden, who have real mountains in find Slåensø. It is the cleanest lake in the
tre of Jutland, the western pen- their outback, to scoff. Afterall, the high- country and its water is drinkable, as the
est “peaks” are only about 150m above local tourism office likes to point out. The
insular part of the realm, there sea level. However, in Denmark, which is only inflow to the lake comes from a few
is a region called Søhøjlandet, otherwise largely flat and predominately springs in the southern end, and since it
which translates to “The Lake farmland, it stands out—and for good is in a forest and a good distance from
Highland.” It is a sparsely popu- reason. It is picturesque! farmland where there is run-off from agri-
Generously scattered among rolling culture (which can leach into the lake),
lated and largely forested area hills, which are draped in forest or heath, no pollutants can get into it.
PETER SYMES
with many lakes, a large part of are plenty of freshwater lakes and they The springs also give the lake its name. Roach (Rutilus rutilus) mostly inhabit freshwater ecosystems that are
which make up a reserve. are among the cleanest and clearest in The Danish term “sø” means “lake,” so somewhat vegetated, because its larvae and young fish are protect-
ed by the vegetation and the mature fish can use it for food. Slåensø
travel the top layer of the lakebed, creating
Denmark
a crust-like layer, which seals off any
underlying composing matter and pre-
vents the breakdown of this layer from
consuming oxygen in the water column.
The images in this article show how the
CHRISTIAN FISCHER / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / CC BY-SA 3.0

lakebed is brown and firm, and not
black and loose.
Habitat
The plants also create a habitat and hid-
ing places for fish and their fry, as well as
aquatic insects. Here, we can also find
amphibians and reptiles, both of which
are threatened and protected. It was
probably pure serendipity, but on my
latest photoshoot, a grass snake (Natrix
natrix), also known as a water snake,
caught a frog right before my very eyes.
Potamogeton natans, commonly known as broad-leaved pondweed, produces both floating The grass snake is a Eurasian non-ven-
and submersed leaves on the same plant (see first image in this article). omous colubrid snake that feeds almost
exclusively on amphibians.
About vascular plants This sets them apart from kelp, which Along the banks there are patches
A vascular plant is any one of a number we encounter in saltwater. Kelp is large of water lily and potamogeton species,
of plants with specialized vascular tissue. brown algae, and what appears to be its which are rooted in the lakebed, with
The two types of vascular tissue, xylem roots are holdfasts, which lock onto sub- leaves and flowers floating on or emer- PETER SYMES
PETER SYMES
and phloem, are responsible for moving strates made of rock, or cobble. gent from the surface. Water lilies do not have surface leaves (lily
water, minerals, and the products of pho- Although it functions in this way like a Gotcha! Grass snake (Natrix natrix) captures Water lilies are rhizomatous herbs. A pads) during winter but set new shoots from
tosynthesis throughout the plant. root, a holdfast does not absorb nutri- a common frog (Rana temporaria), which is rhizome is a modified subterranean plant a perennial rhizome in the lakebed.
having a really bad day. stem, which runs underground horizon-
tally, sending out roots and shoots from its invasive species.
ents, and kelp has no vascular tissue. nodes. Rhizomes are also called creep- Canadian pondweed (Elodea
Vascular plants play a crucial role in ing rootstalks, or just rootstalks, and they canadensis) is a popular aquarium plant.
freshwater lake ecosystems by transport- are high in starch. It came to Europe, allegedly via a load of
ing oxygen from photosynthesis to their Of potamogeton, there are about a timber imported to the United Kingdom
roots, where it diffuses into the sediment dozen species in sizes ranging from large from Canada around 1836, and in a little
or lakebed. This oxygen has two impor- (stems of 6m or more) to very small (less over a century, it has managed to spread
tant effects. Firstly, it enables aerobic than 10cm). The predominant and most over the entire European continent.
decay of organic matter, which sinks to recognisable is floating pond-
the bottom, by microorganisms that use weed, Potamogeton natans.
oxygen in their metabolism. By contrast, However, many of these spe-
anaerobic breakdown is what we see cies are difficult to tell apart,
in oxygen-depleted lakes, where the and their tendency to hybri-
lakebed is smothered in thick layers of dise does not make a bota-
black loose sediment, which releases nist’s life any easier.
bubbles of “swamp gas” that smells like
rotten eggs when you poke a stick in it. Pondweed & hornwort
The unpleasant smell comes from hydro- Among the stems of lilypads
gen sulphide, which is a by-product of and potamogeton, we
anaerobic metabolism. can find clusters or mats of
The vascular plants not only sustain Canadian pondweed and
PETER SYMES
aerobic breakdown but also oxidise hornwort, both of which are PETER SYMES
Eurasian watermilfoil (Myriophyllum spicatum) has slender stems up to 250cm long. European perch (Perca fluviatilis) is a predatory species.
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ARNSTEIN RØNNING / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / CC BY 3.0

PETER SYMES
A tuft of hornwort (Ceratophyllum sp.) among roots and stones (above);

Bogbean (Menyanthes trifoliata) sometimes creates big quagmires with
its thick roots. It has a characteristically strong and bitter taste, which
PETER SYMES can be used in akvavit, also known as snaps (left).
VELEDAN / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / PUBLIC DOMAIN

Aahhhh! It is nice with some
CHRISTIAN FISCHER / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / CC BY-SA 3.0
peace and quiet. One thing is

for sure, one will not get blown
out in this spot (top left).
Hornworts, Ceratophyllum
sp., have stems that reach
lengths of 1 to 3m (3 to 10ft),
with numerous side shoots
making a single specimen
appear as a large, bushy
mass. It grows completely
submerged but can often be
found floating on the surface
in dense mats. The plants
have no roots at all, but some-
times they develop modified
leaves with a rootlike appear-
An intriguing species is common bladderwort, ance, which anchor the plant
Utricularia vulgaris, which is a free-floating to the bottom.
plant that does not put down roots. It sets
delicate yellow flowers, which bely the fact Fish
that the plant is carnivorous. It catches small Pike (Esox lucius) has a very
organisms with its tiny bladder-like traps,
typical hunting behaviour.
which appear as small nodules among the
finely pinnately-divided leaves. Triggered by It lurks, perfectly still among
protruding hairs on the door, the trap blad- the foliage. Before striking, it
ders open in about 0.5 milliseconds, suck- bends its body and darts out
ing the animal in, and closing in about 2.5 to the prey, catching its prey
milliseconds, operating at speeds that rank sideways in the mouth. RENÉ B. NIELSEN
among the fastest plant movements known. Pike lurking in the vegetation. They are typical ambush predators, lying in wait for prey.
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PETER SYMES
The best point of entry is at the eastern end where there is a short path leading down to
the lake from the parking lot. Here, there is also a ledge on which to sit while kitting up.
A trolley can come in handy to get the equipment back and forth to a car. Otherwise,
RENÉ B. NIELSEN just walk twice. Carrying both tanks and lead can be heavy. Boats of any kind, includ-
A canopy of lily pads against the canapy of the surrounding forest ing inflatables, are not allowed! The South Florida Underwater Photography Society
(SFUPS) is a non-profit social organization dedi-
Fish species (not depicted here) fre- fish of the cyprinid family, lives in great on several animal prey species, with for living prey in the upper levels cated to the promotion of excellence in underwater
quently encountered in the lake include schools and feeds on small molluscs, aquatic invertebrates being the most but also feed on aquatic veg- photography through its membership.
the common bleak, brown trout, pike insects that fall into the water, insect abundant prey items. The common rudd etation when the temperature
and common rudd. The bleak (Alburnus larvae, worms, small shellfish and plant (Scardinius erythrophthalmus) prefer exceeds 18°C. 
alburnus), a small freshwater coarse detritus. Brown trout (Salmo trutta) feeds clear waters rich in plants feed and hunt
The Bubbling Reefs

East of Denmark’s northern tip, out of some sandstone poles and arch- Microorganisms, which utilise the
and a short trip with a small ferry ers that stick right out of the otherwise seeping methane as a source
from the town of Frederikshavn, flat sandy bottom surrounding them, are of energy, excrete compounds
we find a small group of pictur- methane that stems from ancient sub- that fuse grains of sand into a
esque islands called Hirsholmene terranean deposits of organic material solid structure, hard as concrete,
(holm means islet in Danish). They being decomposed by microorganisms. which forms along the under-
are surrounded by a shallow archi- ground channels of seeping gas
pelago that has been declared This is natural gas that is being produced as it makes its way up through
a sanctuary, which covers about and released through channels in the the seabed.
2,400 hectares. The islets them- seabed. Denmark is the only place on
selves are just about 45 hectares earth where active bubbling reefs are Once the sand shifts with chang- The Bubbling Reefs article was published in Issue#23.
altogether and a popular day- found at shallow depths. In fact, the bub- ing currents, as they do over Click on the cover above to go to the article.
trip destination for leisure boaters. bling reefs around Hirsholmene can be time, these solid structures get
For divers, it is in the surrounding found at depths of only 9 to 12m. exposed and are left standing free and Getting there
waters where we find perhaps erect above the surrounding seabed. The islets and reefs are close enough
the most intriguing dive spot in the Sandstone structures Soon they become covered with an to the shore of Jutland for a RIB to be
country: the Bubbling Reefs. The striking structures, which come in the assortment of kelp, sponges, anemones launched from the beach or one of the
shape of both telegraph poles and intri- and other sessile life. In turn, this forms a marinas. 
Methane cate arches, are made of sandstone cre- habitat for fishes and crustaceans.
The bubbles, which seem to fizz ated by bacterial activity.
PETER SYMES
MIKKEL NOE
Marine Life in Danish Waters

Text by Peter Symes. Photos by Tine — A Selection of Images of Local Species
Hindal, David Holland, Lars Stenholt
Kirkegaard, Morten Bjørn Larsen, René
Bruno Nielsen, Mikkel Noe, Peter Symes
Onchidoris muricata nudibranch

MORTON BJØRN LARSEN
The greater weever (Trachinus draco) is an ambush predator that

digs itself into fine sand during daytime, with only its eyes and the
tip of the dorsal fin exposed (above).
TINA HINDAL
Possibly Eubranchus rupium, the green balloon aeolid

TINE HINDAL
TINE HINDAL
This really nice closeup shot shows a nudibranch, Onchidoris muri-
cata, feeding upon encrusting bryozoans, also known as moss ani- A nudibranch pushes its way past a couple of sea anemones. There are about 20 species of anemo-
mals, which cover large patches of the foliage of brown algae. nes in Danish waters. These two specimens are possibly small dahlia anemone (Urticina felina).
Polycera quadrilineata is sometimes called the fourline nudibranch. The aolid nudibranch could be Gulenia monicae or Gulenia orjani, but there are several closely
The head has four, or occasionally six, yellow projections. related species that, until quite recently, were considered one. The full story is posted here.
travel
MIKKEL NOE
Denmark
LARS STENHOLT KIRKEGAARD PETER SYMES
Lumpsuckers (Cyclopterus lumpus) have Sea spiders

pelvic fins that form suction discs, which it (above) are not
uses to attach to rocks or other surfaces. Its true spiders, or
colour is highly variable, from bluish, grey- even arach-
ish, olive, yellowish to brownish hues, with nids, but marine
the male turning a bright range of red dur- arthropods of the
TINE HINDAL ing the breeding season. The male guards order Pantopoda.
and cares for the eggs by fanning them They are found
Tubularia is a genus of hydroids that occur either solitary or in colo- with his fins during the month-long incuba- in oceans across
nies, with a life cycle resembling that of typical Cnidaria: the phylum tion period. The fish are coveted for their the world but
of stinging animals such as corals, jellyfish, box jellyfish and hydroids. roe, which is featured in one of the local most commonly
However, unlike jellyfish, the medusae remain attached and never delicacies: lumpsucker caviar on toast, with in shallow waters;
set free. In a way, they are inverted jellyfish on a stalk. finely chopped red onion and sour cream. Limacia clavigera,
The roe is a rich source of omega-3 fatty or orange-clubbed
acids and vitamin B12. In the foreground is sea slug (left), is
the tip of a frond of bladder wrack, which commonly found
appears to be dotted with hydroids. on the lower shore
and in sublittoral
DAVID HOLLAND
algae belts.
MIKKEL NOE
Aeolidia papillosa, or grey sea slug

(above), has grey or brown pigments
causing variable colouration from
cream, fawn, grey, brown, orange,
pink to dark purple-brown. The mid-
dle of the back lacks cerata down
the center.
The snake pipefish (Entelurus

aequoreus) is the largest species of
MIKKEL NOE
pipefish recorded in European waters
Measuring 4 to 5cm, the common goby (Pomatoschistus microps) breeds from (right). They are generally found
February to September, at which time, the colour of the male darkens and his amongst marine grasses or algae close
fins become more coloured. Eggs are laid under shells, stones or on aquatic TINE HINDAL into shore where its colour and pattern-
plants. The male then guards the eggs until they hatch about nine days later. ing provides good camouflage.
Coryphella verrucosa rufibranchialis? PETER SYMES
travel
PETER SYMES
Denmark
PETER SYMES
RENÉ BRUNO NIELSEN
European plaice Pleuronectes platessa or European flounder

Platichthys flesus (above). Both are commercially important
flatfish. The two species are so closely related that they some-
times hybridise. Particularly in the western Baltic Sea, the hybrid
is common; Agonus cataphractus, commonly known as the
hooknose, pogge or armed bullhead (top left), is a species of
fish in the family Agonidae, close to the scorpionfish and related
to the sculpin; Body language can be universal. A lobster (left)
lets the human know he is trespassing. European lobster or com-
mon lobster Homarus gammarus is the largest crustacean. It is
protected and catches are highly regulated.
MIKKEL NOE
Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua) A colourful assortment of sessile life

photographed from a rather (above): In the centre, under the blue
unusual perspective (right). starfish, are yellow colonies of breadcrumb
Cod is one of the most sponge Halichondria panicea—a suspen-
important commercial fishes, sion feeder feeding mainly on phytoplank-
which has been fished for a ton. On the right is a plumose anemone,
thousand years, but many Metridium senile, which is the largest
important stocks collapsed in anemone. The Danish name for it translates
the 1990s due to overfishing. to “sea carnation.” Assorted smaller anem-
Divers often see cod around ones are interspersed with brown algae
wrecks where they like to seek (kelp). Some white barnacles, which are
shelter. For the same reasons, also suspension feeders, can also be seen.
wrecks are also popular fish-
The shorthorn sculpin (left) spawns in
ing spots for both professional
December through March; the eggs are
fishers and anglers; snagged
laid between rocks in a clump protected
fishing gear and monofila-
by the male. Its pectoral fins are webbed
ment fishing lines caught on
with sharp rays along the lower edge, a
wrecks are often a concern
modification that helps with gripping the
for visiting divers.
MIKKEL NOE RENÉ BRUNO NIELSEN substrate in fast-flowing water.
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DAVE HOLLAND
© Magnus Edvardsson
SCANDINAVIA´S BIGGEST DIVE SHOW
DAVE HOLLAND
Shorthorn sculpin, Myoxocephalus scorpius

(above), is found among seaweed or on rocky DAVE HOLLAND
bottoms with mud or sand. Like other coldwater

TINE HINDAL
fish, it has antifreeze proteins, which allow it to
survive at temperatures around or slightly below
freezing; Lion's mane jellyfish, Cyanea capillata
(top right), uses its stinging tentacles to capture,
pull in, and eat prey such as fish, zooplankton,
sea creatures and smaller jellyfish.
WIN A
DIVE TRIP
FOR THE
WHOLE
FAMILY
GOTHENBURG
Goby taking shelter in a shell WIN DIVE TRIPS | TRY DIVE | SEMINARS | WORKSHOPS
(above); Polycera quadriline-
ata on bryozoans (center right) CHILDREN´S CORNER | DIVE TRAVEL | DIVER´S PUB
Amphipod on marine grass (right) PHOTO COMPETIONS | TECH DIVING | EDUCATION DIVE
EQUIPMENT | DIVE CENTRES
ERIKSBERGSHALLEN
PETER SYMES
NEWMARCH 14-1519-20,
DATES: MARCH , 20202022
The sea stickleback
(Spinachia spinachia) is a For more info go to dykmassan.se
solitary fish and a predator
that lurks among conceal-
ing vegetation (above);
Bushy backed nudibranch,
Dendronotus frondosus (right) DAVE HOLLAND
RENÉ BRUNO NIELSEN
Dive Industry in Denmark — The Story of JJ-CCR
Text and photos by Peter Symes the two continued to dive together As such, a JJ is an advanced piece
and confer on further developments. of kit made for advanced and tech-
Some 80km south of Copen nical divers who can appreciate its
hagen, about one hour’s drive, By the end of 2006, Shearwater less complex, more rugged, and
PHOTO COURTESY OF JJ-CCR

Research’s GF computer was added therefore, in theory, more fail-safe
in what appears to be just as a controller, and back-mounted design. Or, as the byline on the com-
some ordinary and inconspic- counterlungs were introduced in late pany website states: “The JJ-CCR is
uous farm buildings surround- 2007. At this point, Petersen decided a rugged and versatile rebreather
ed by fields out in the country- to mature what was still a prototype developed for harsh wreck and cave
and make it ready for market. environments.” It was never intended
side, we find JJ-CCR—manu- for the sports diving market but engi-
facturer of world-renowned The workshop was rebuilt and tooling neered to be a solid tool for profes-
closed circuit rebreathers. was purchased. Final refinements and sional wreck divers who worked in the
testing took place during 2009. By the deep, dark and cold waters of the
I have known this company since its end of 2010, the JJ-CCR was ready and Baltic Sea. The JJ-CCR
inception. JJ-CCR is founded and CE certified. CE certification affirms that
headed by Jan Petersen, whose a product has been assessed to meet One of our regular tech-
expertise is in machining, but it was high safety, health, and environmental nical diving contributors
another Jan, surname Jørgensen, who protection requirements, in compliance and columnists, who also
certified me on the Inspiration Classic, with relevant EU legislation. happens to be a JJ-CCR
a little over 20 years ago. Around that instructor, explained that
time, Jørgensen also happened to The “JJ,” as the unit is fondly referred the oft-used description
certify Petersen, and the two Jans— to by its enthusiastic user group, is not of the JJ as being “the
hence the name “JJ”—got into a a rebreather intended for entry-level 4 x 4 of the rebreather
fruitful discussion about designing and recreational divers—although Petersen community” is fitting. The
building a new rebreather, which led contends it can also be used by rec- characteristics he fore-
to the development of the first proto- reational divers. It is more of a purist most highlighted is its ver-
Præstø type in 2005. Jørgensen soon went on concept, doing away with some of satility and adaptability
to pursue other business interests, but the complications and added fea- to a multitude of applica-
tures such as an integrated bailout tions, a variety of environ-
Jan Petersen assem- mouthpiece, which has become one ments and different users.
bles rebreathers, by a of the requirements for closed circuit It is also capable of being
window with a view of rebreathers to be designated recrea- operated completely
the surrounding farm- tional (so-called Type R), or permitted manually, and on off-
land (above). for entry-level dive training. board gas if desired. 
Jan Petersen takes

Andrea Donati, princi-
pal of Ponza Diving in
Italy and a long-term
customer, out for a spin
in his high-powered RIB
Factory warehouse of JJ-CCR, located 80km south of Copenhagen
(right).
(above); Assembly of components of the JJ-CCR (right)
Lake Teletskoye
Russia's
Text and photos by Roman

Vorobyev and Tatyana Klimenko — Diving in the Altai Nature Reserve
travel Teletskoye
Beautiful scenery and pristine nature in the Altai Nature Reserve. PREVIOUS PAGE: Steep mountains and wilderness surround Lake Teletskoye.
Somewhere, far from civilisation, In the Altai Mountains, one finds snow- in which travellers ride along the mountain
there is a secret place, lost among capped peaks, rushing rivers and blue ranges and through mountain passes in a
lakes in a green sea of forests and tundra. rugged vehicle for about four hours. The
the high mountains and impass- Few places on earth can compare to its journey on the road to the lake itself is a
able wild forests. Here, where, for majestic beauty. To preserve the pristine pleasant adventure, where you can enjoy
a hundred kilometres, you will not nature of Altai, the Altai Nature Reserve scenic views and rich aromas of the taiga,
meet another person, there are was created in 1932. It is the only specially or boreal forest.
protected natural area in Russia where At the bottom of the last winding and
roaring streams of waterfalls break- diving has been actively developed and picturesque descent of the mountainous
ing from steep coasts, and in win- supported, as a type of ecotourism, which trail, with an elevation change of one kilo-
ter, instead of ice-bound lakes and will not harm the nature found here. With a metre from the summit to the base, visitors
length of 77km and a depth of 325m, Lake register at a checkpoint entrance (remem-
rivers, waves rage. At the same
Teletskoye is the largest body of water and ber, this is a specially protected natural
time, in this place, the mysterious reservoir in Altai. It is filled with the legends area) and check in to the cosiest spot for
dark depths of one of the deepest and myths of the local indigenous people. divers in Siberia: the village of Yaylu, which
and largest lakes in Russia attracts is the small original settlement in the area.
Getting there Yaylu is also the central estate of the Altai
hundreds of divers every year. The road to Altai begins with a flight to Reserve and is technologically quite devel-
Intrigued? Then we invite you on Gorno-Altaisk, the capital of the Altai oped, with round-the-clock power supply
an adventure to Lake Teletskoye. Republic. Then there is a transfer of 200km, from a diesel-solar power plant, high-speed
There are many waterfalls in the area that increase their flow into Lake Teletskoye in spring.
travel Teletskoye
internet access points and 4G internet connec- freezing over only once every six to eight
tion. In Yaylu, there are no large tourist com- years. However, there can be really severe
plexes and no huge numbers of tourists—it’s just storms here, with wave heights of up to two
a quiet place in the middle of the forest. Divers metres. Yet, the sound of the surf all winter
are accommodated in the comfortable guest long is what people come here to enjoy.
houses of local residents. The nature reserve The coasts of the Teletskoye are mostly
authorities impose certain restrictions: Hunting high and steep. There are no roads along
(including underwater), fishing, bonfires, setting the coast, and dive sites are accessible
up tents and simply being on the reserve’s terri- mainly from the water.
tory without permission are prohibited. But this is
a small price to pay for preserving Altai’s wilder- Diving
ness for future generations. So, how does Lake Teletskoye surprise an
experienced diver? Let’s start with the fact
About the lake that on Teletskoye, every dive is deeper
And now, let’s go to the shore of the main than 15 to 20m and considered a night dive,
attraction: Lake Teletskoye, also known as regardless of the time of day. When diving,
Golden Lake. Geologically, Lake Teletskoye is one will experience a sensation of falling into
located on a tectonic fault, and its modern an almost palpable blackness, as if you are At depths of more than 40m, darkness
shape was formed about 20,000 years ago descending into a thick layer of black ink, where always combines with the crystal clarity of the
during the last epoch of glaciation. the beams of dive lamps or torches shorten and water. Technical diving on Lake Teletskoye is
One of the most interesting features of the fade. The only thing that reminds one that the remarkable because—regardless of the season
Many dives in Lake Teletskoye are deep at 15 to 20m and considered lake is that one can dive in open water here all sun still exists is the dim green ceiling when one or the weather—at depths below 40m, visibility
night dives, no matter what time of day (above); The sound of waves all year round. Teletskoye is one of the few non- looks up. At 30m, it also disappears. The visitor is limited only by the power of your dive lamp.
winter long attracts many visitors (top left); On the bottom are boulders freezing freshwater lakes in Russia, completely enters the realm of eternal darkness. Silt from the surface does not reach this depth,
the size of cars (top right); The lake can be dived all year round (right).
travel DIVE
SHEARWATER
Visibility is clear at depth, and underwater landscapes vary from silt-laden plateaus to steep rocky walls.
and the transparency of the water is always and-sand lakebed slopes downward. Deeper
good. At the same time, the sensation of div- down lie massive rocks. On clear, sunny days
ing here can best be described as flying in with good visibility, the landscape sometimes
outer space. reminds one of endless dunes in the deserts.
The water temperature in Lake Teletskoye At the dive site in Yaylu, divers do a man-
most often varies in a narrow range from 1 datory check-dive. For those who are here
to 4°C. In summer, only the first few metres for the first time, it is necessary to understand
warm up, so drysuits are mandatory. You can the specific conditions and get used to the
dive in the lake all year round. If one does features of the reservoir. Here, the shallow
not have experience diving in a drysuit, this water is flooded with sunlight on a clear day.
is not a problem, as there is a wide range of Diving lower, divers will find a fairly steep
sizes in drysuits for rent, and a drysuit course muddy slope and pass by the remains of a
can be completed in two days. sunken pier built in the early ‘60s from thick
Underwater, Lake Teletskoye is a vast sandy, pine logs. Now, it serves as a home and shel-
muddy desert, with the play of the sun’s rays ter for many underwater organisms.
in the lake’s shallows, and steep piles of rocks, The Yaylu area of the lake is suitable for
vertical walls, and a secret night life for fishes really deep dives; the slope is quite steep,
in its seemingly unlimited depths with abso- with vertical stone walls alternating with
lutely transparent water clarity. stepped silted terraces. From 50 to 55m, the
The underwater landscape along the muddy slope breaks down to a steep wall
lake’s shallow coastal strip is usually a pla- and a terrace or cliff at 80m. Below this point,
teau with rocks and driftwood overgrown at 100m, there is again a wall, at the foot of
with algae. One can sometimes find really which one reaches a gentle plateau. All the
huge trees on the lake bottom. Boulders here horizontal surfaces in the lake are covered
are often the size of cars. Then, the mud- with sediment, like fallen snow. In some plac-
Sometimes huge trees can be found on the lake bottom.
travel Teletskoye
Aerial view of Lake Teletskoye, showing the mixing of sediments, pollen, vegetation and other matter deposited into the lake by rivers and streams
es, there are traces of the activity in some places, rugged canyons. parency of the water. In springtime, Ledebur rhododendron; this is the
of the stream, which carries out into Sometimes, you will see structures large waves no longer raise silt near hallmark of the Altai spring. On the
the lake what once grew, bloomed, that resemble the superstructures of the coastal strip, cold water (2°C) lawns, spring flowers successively
crawled or flew around it—creat- sunken ships or the spires of Gothic does not allow plankton to actively replace one another—white, purple,
ing a “layer cake” of dark swathes cathedrals. vegetate, and the rivers flowing yellow and orange.
of leaves, twigs, blades of grass and into the lake have not yet collected In the spring, you can also observe
insects, on top of the sediments on Seasons and carried a large enough flow of fog on the lake as rolling “waves”
the lakebed. When can you come? The answer muddy water to impair visibility at on the shore, covering not only the
This is just one dive site, and the is simple: any time. Each time of a considerable distance. On sunny mountains on the other side, but also
variety of underwater landscapes in year has its own characteristics and days, you can see underwater the next few metres, with a dense
the lake is impressive: sheer walls of charms. landscapes for tens of metres into veil of cloud. The level of the lake at
marble and limestone, with remains the distance. this time rises very quickly, with the
of wrecks, black underwater rocks, Spring. The most pleasant thing for In May, the shores of Lake Teletskoye water rising by 30cm per day. The
shallow shelves, vertical walls, and divers in spring is the perfect trans- are painted with purple flowers of lake swallows up four to five metres
Underwater vegetation reaches up to the surface to catch the light.
travel Teletskoye
Diatom algae colonies depend on

sunlight and cover shallow waters
in spring (above); Sponges grow
on driftwood (top left); Snail (right);
The ephemeral mayfly larva (left)
lives underwater for two to three
years. Upon adulthood, it lives only
a few hours and dies immediately
after reproduction.
resembling the pattern of milk

foam in a cappuccino. You
can observe large accumula-
of shoreline every day, which makes it eas- tions of coniferous pollen on the water; serenity of early fall. The surface layers of
ier to carry dive equipment to the water. they merge into giant “rivers” that stretch the lake are still warmed up to 9 to 16°C—
Under the water, there is still an almost for kilometres. Visibility in the surface lay- a pleasant temperature for macro photog-
wintery coolness in temperature as well as ers at this time rarely exceeds two to three raphy and decompression stops. The calm
good transparency. Usually, good visibility metres and improves within a month. In this waters hide the life bubbling under the mir-
is maintained until the end of June. way, ultrapure mountain water is enriched ror surface of the lake.
with minerals and organic matter to con- Schools of grayling and young pike can
Summer. In summer, a stream of water, tinue the cycle of life. Nevertheless, the always be seen on a night dive, but the
muddy with clay, flows through the lake lake is large, and there are always places most interesting thing to observe takes
from the Chulyshman River, the main inflow where the water remains clear. place in the world of invertebrates. The
of Lake Teletskoye. From the tops of the growth period of freshwater sponges is still
mountain slopes, you can see how the Autumn. In the autumn (September to ongoing in the fall. Their bright pink colo-
river and lake waters mix, forming patterns October), you will be greeted by the nies grow into bizarre forms, from “bushes”
Juvenile pike
travel Teletskoye
Divers explore the rocky terrain under the ice, which forms dramatic shapes overhead (above and top right); Diver jumps into a hole carved into the ice (right).
to “fingers” and tree-like shapes. provides not only the luxury of the beyond one’s outstretched arm, silt quickly settles and visibility in
Another feature of early autumn sound of the surf and the view in the first three metres of a dive. shallow water is restored again.
are the underwater carpets of of the emerald waves, but also Water fluctuations are felt up to Ice cover is usually not able to
hydra, covering everything eve- an extensive park of bizarre ice the six-metre mark. At the same establish itself because of strong
rywhere. Dense clusters and tan- sculptures that are formed by the depth, the transparency of the winter winds, but sometimes—
gles of tentacles are found on constant freezing of cold-water water becomes better and bet- usually in February, due to the
rocks, wood, metal, and even on spray, falling on rocks and trees. ter, and at 30m, the diver is met severe cold and rare hours of
other invertebrates. Hydra pas- No ice figure park can surpass the with silence, in the calm and calm—Lake Teletskoye, although
sengers ride on snails. All of this creations of nature. eternal darkness. reluctantly, gives in to winter and
and much more can be seen by What happens underwater in a At this time of year, the mood freezes. A few days after freezing,
an attentive observer. storm can be briefly described as of the Golden Lake changes not the transparency of the water not cover the lake for more than the lake is typical of cold seas
a “washing machine,” very noisy only from day to day, but also can reach 40m, and at a short two months—a great chance to and a minimal food supply due to
Winter. In winter, the lake is domi- and sometimes working around during the course of one day. By distance, the water seems almost learn ice diving! cold water that is harder to warm,
nated by the winds; they bring the clock. During storms, raised the evening, the wind subsides, invisible. The preparation of ice but an attentive observer will
high waves onto the shore. For silt and sand from coastal areas and it becomes quite a feasible holes is not hard work; the ice is Features of local fauna always see what is hidden at first
lovers of contemplation, Yaylu do not allow one to see anything mission to go into the water. The rarely thicker than 30cm and does Undoubtedly, the biodiversity of glance. The best time to observe
travel
Dive Cape Town with
Indigo Scuba
Camera Friendly, Guided Dives, Gear Rental

Scuba & Photography Courses
www.indigoscuba.com info@indigoscuba.com
the lake’s fauna is at night. Burbot rise At night, the water near the lake wriggle, trying to suck on a new host; Broken ice covers the surface
from the depths of the lake, grayling bottom is a “soup” of oar-footed crus- cyclops crustaceans quickly hide of Lake Teletskoye in winter
can be seen in the shallow waters, taceans and small fishes. Vertical rock from the light of dive torches; and (top right); Pike shelters in
and pike (as befits a dominant spe- surfaces without silt are covered with hydra slowly hunt them, spreading submerged wooden structure
cies of an ecosystem) calmly, and a carpet of hydra. And on the muddy their long tentacles. All these critters (top left); Tentacles of hydra
dangle from an overhang (far
with dignity, patrol their territory, look- lakebed, life just boils, even under the are small and fussy—a real challenge
left); Juvenile burbot (center);
ing with interest at the strange visitors ice: Small stonefish jump from place for the macro photographer. Perch fish (above)
with fins and tanks. to place; gammarus swarm; leeches
travel Teletskoye
Siberian sculpin (above) and burbot (top right) resting on the lake bottom at night; Cyclops copepod with eggs (left)
Dive centre beginning level (CMAS, SDI) to the and past events, and it opens up wide
The underwater research station of technical (TDI), and all underwater opportunities for dating artefacts.
the Altai Nature Reserve is located on guests are given information about Diving for us is not just work. This is a
the shore of Lake Teletskoye in the vil- the world of the unique Altai lake. The way of knowing ourselves and the par-
lage of Yaylyu. Despite the distance centre stays open all year round, as its allel universe on the other side
from civilisation, the centre has every- friendly team is constantly in the water. of the water’s surface. 
thing divers need for recreational and But the centre’s work is not just about
technical diving: a tank-filling station, tourism. Regular work is carried out The staff of the underwater research
compressors, equipment for prepar- to clean up Lake Teletskoye of illegal station at Lake Teletskoye includes
ing gases (oxygen, nitrox, trimix). There and abandoned nets, and garbage. Tatyana Klimenko, instructor of TDI,
are dry and wet areas where you can Comprehensive studies of plankton, SDI, CMAS; and Roman Vorobyov,
change clothes and dry your equip- as the basis of the aquatic ecosystem, researcher of the Altai Nature Reserve,
ment, as well as hot tea (made from and environmental monitoring are car- certified gas-blender, divemaster, tri-
local herbs) to drink after winter dives, ried out. Research has begun in the mix diver and doctor. For more infor-
by the warmth and crackle of a wood- field of underwater dendrochronol- mation, email: zazerkalie04@yandex.
burning stove. ogy—submerged wood is of particular ru, or go to: youtube.com/channel/
There is also a comfortable classroom interest, as it is a promising repository UCHoMTcD2MnBnUfCloSlLrvQ and
where training is conducted, from the of information about climate change facebook.com/AltayskiyZapovednik
Authors Tatyana Klimenko and Roman Vorobyev
Text and photos by Scott Bennett, Larry
Cohen, Lureen Ferretti, Frankie Grant,
Jennifer Idol, Kate Jonker, Matthew
Meier, Brandi Mueller, Gary Rose, Don
Silcock, Olga Torrey, Martin Voeller and
Beth Watson
We asked our contributors what

their most unusual or unex-
pected dive was and they sent
us photos and tales of unique
experiences under the waves,
some involving interactions
with intriguing species, others
purely chance encounters or
surprising discoveries. From the
tropical waters of Indonesia,
the Philippines, Marshall Islands,
Mexico's Revillagigedo Islands,
Kona in Hawaii and Cuba, to
the subtropical waters off the
eastern coast of Florida in the
United States and Mexico's Los
Islotes, to the temperate waters
of South Africa, Japan and the
Puget Sound in America's Pacific
Northwest, to a freshwater lake
in China, X-Ray Mag contributors
share their favorite uncommon
underwater moments.
Unusual & Unexpected Dive

My Most
Contributors' Picks from Around the World

MARTIN VOELLER
feature
PREVIOUS PAGE: Mola mola and
a diver, Chiba, Japan. Exposure:
Unusual
ISO 400, f/13, 1/350s. Gear: Nikon
D4S camera, Sigma 15mm lens,
Subal ND4 housing with Zen-DP
230 fisheye dome port, two Inon
Z-240 strobes
Topside view of a whale shark in

blue water, Chiba, Japan (right).
Exposure: ISO 560, f/9.5, 1/350s.
Gear: Nikon D4S camera, Sigma
15mm lens, Subal ND4 housing
with Zen-DP 230 fisheye dome
port, ambient light
Net Traps, Chiba, Japan

Text and photos
by Martin Voeller
Japan is a country known

for its fishing industry, and it
should be no surprise that the
Japanese coasts are controlled
by the country’s fishers. There
are pockets of areas along
the coast where the fishers will
have their stationary net traps
set up in shallow waters—called
teichi-ami in Japanese—and
many fish that get caught in
these nets are then sold off to
the fish markets.
Mackerel, sardines and her-
ring are some of the most com-
mon fish found in these nets,
but oftentimes, larger fish that
prey on these fish can end up
in these nets as well—these
can include sharks and some-
times even whales. A dive shop
located in Chiba, Japan, will
often rescue these larger fish,
but they cannot simply be
released back to the ocean,
as they are most likely weak and injured quent visitors (including mola molas and This dive, to me, is special—it gives me
from getting caught inside the net. whale sharks) are temporarily housed close encounters with these rare spe-
The dive shop has created a colossal, and fed. This allows the fish to heal from cies of fish, with the knowledge that they
rectangular net-enclosure, which has their injuries and, in the interim, divers will soon be released back into the wild
been placed in the open ocean, and can dive inside this enclosure before the after their recovery. Please visit:
Mola mola is a species that often gets caught inside the fishermen’s nets, Chiba, this is where some of these larger, fre- fish are released back into the wild. poseidonphotos.com
Japan. Exposure: ISO 280, f/19, 1/180s. Gear: Nikon D4S camera, Sigma 15mm lens,
Subal ND4 housing with Zen-DP 230 fisheye dome port, two Inon Z-240 strobes
feature Unusual
Broadnose sevengill cow shark

(left). Exposure: ISO 160, 20mm,
f/7.1, 1/80s. Gear: Nikon D200
camera, 10-20mm lens, Hugyfot
housing, two Ikelite DS-125
strobes; Puffadder shyshark
(above). Exposure: ISO 320,
16mm, f/10, 1/160s; Red roman
(right). Exposure: ISO 320, 19mm,
f/8, 1/160s. Gear used for images
above and right: Nikon D810
camera, 16-35mm lens, Seacam
housing, two Ikelite DS-160 strobes
Miller’s Point, Cape Town, South Africa

Text and photos by Scott Bennett 3m in length.
They are also
Situated in False Bay, south of Cape inquisitive, closely
Town, Miller’s Point was my first-ever approaching
dive in a kelp forest. As a long-time divers before
tropical diver, it was an environment veering off at the
unlike anything I had encountered last second. One
before. From the seabed at 12m, came so close, I had to gently nudge requires closer scrutiny of the seabed.
stands of kelp soared to the surface as it away with my strobe! There were also plenty of smaller
urchins, anemones and starfish shroud- On a second visit a few years later, sharks. Small, but brimming with atti-
ed the seabed below. Light filtering the cow sharks had been scared off tude, the aptly named pyjama sharks
from above created an ethereal feel, by visiting orca, but there was no short- zoomed past, looking for morsels,
it was like being in an undersea cathe- age of fish action. As soon as our dive while leopard catsharks and puffad-
dral. I was awestruck! guide Ernest opened his bag of fishy der shysharks were much more placid.
A highlight was the appearance of treats, we were literally engulfed by The surrounding area was familiar to
broadnose sevengill cow sharks, usu- a fish frenzy. Vivid red romans were many of my fellow divers, having been
ally a deep-water species, but com- especially bold, joined by other spe- featured in popular documentaries
monly observed here. Patrolling the cies, including hottentots and red such as Blue Planet II and My Octopus
channels between the kelp, they are steenbras. Octopus can also be seen, Teacher. Visit: xray-mag.com/
an ancient species measuring up to but their immaculate camouflage Contributors/Scott-Bennett
Pyjama shark, Miller's Point, South Africa. Exposure: ISO 320, 16mm, f/9, 1/60s. Gear:
Nikon D810 camera, 16-35mm lens, Seacam housing, two Ikelite DS-160 strobes
feature Unusual
Atlantis tourist submarine, hovering next to the wreck of the Predator, explores the waters around Kona.
Tourist Submarine, Kona, Hawaii As I was shooting, we heard a rum- I thought this was an excellent oppor-
ble in the distance. The thunder got tunity, but I only had one working strobe!
Text and photos by Larry Cohen louder and louder, then we spotted So, I mainly used ambient light to pho-
a strange shadow in the distance. As tograph the large submarine and used
I had one of my most unusual dives it got closer, we were surprised by a my one strobe to fill in the shadows. The
when in Kona, Hawaii, while exploring submarine! The Atlantis tourist subma- strobe still helped bring out the details to
the wreck of the Predator with Jack’s rine also wanted to explore this ship- show the inhabitants of the sub.
Diving Locker. I was photographing my wreck. Through the portholes, we spot- I used an Olympus OM-D E-M1 in an
dive buddy, Olga Torrey, when I discov- ted the smiling faces of children and Aquatica housing with the Olympus
ered one of my fiber optic cables was their parents. They were very excited 9-18mm lens to capture the images.
not working. I decided to keep shoot- to see a group of scuba divers swim- One Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobe was used
ing. I had to reposition my strobe, and ming around the wreck. Of course, I for lighting. The ISO was set at 200, and
I concentrated on the details of the was excited to document a submarine the aperture at f/11. The shutter speed
wreck and small marine life, so I could cruising around the wreck and the varied from 1/100 to 1/320. Please visit:
light the subjects with one strobe. tourists’ excitement inside the sub. liquidimagesuw.com
Tourists enjoy seeing the divers (above); Dive buddy, Olga Torrey, photographs the submarine (top right)
feature Unusual
Manta ray (above);

Whale shark enjoying
divers' exhaust bub-
bles (left); Komodo
dragons (right)
Komodo, Indonesia The checkout dive was conducted in a niest thing

relatively shallow site with little to no current to watch.
Text and photos by Lureen Ferretti but LOADED with critters. The first subject The reefs
our dive guide pointed out was a thorny of Komodo
Selecting the most extraordinary dive is seahorse, then a stone’s throw away was were spectacular, and the water clarity was The last dive in Komodo left me yearning
impossible. Every dive I have had brings not one, not two, but three ornate ghost so clear. We saw rays for days. The surface to return. We hit the reef in the late after-
back fond memories and has offered some- pipefish! Of all species on this trip, I saw views were just as breathtaking. Every morn- noon; there were thousands of fish, of many
thing unique and special—from sharks, man- more pipefish than on all prior dive trips ing, I joined other guests for morning tea as shapes, sizes and species. The tuna and
tas and brilliant, colorful, healthy soft corals combined. However, it was not all about we watched the sun rise. jacks were hunting, and every time they
to pygmy seahorses and ornate ghost pipe- the little critters—there were plenty of man- No trip to Komodo would be complete dived towards their prey, the entire school
fish, the experiences have been endless. tas and whale sharks as well. For the first without seeing the Komodo dragons. I went of fish would change direction. It was the
This task brought back so many fantastic time, I saw the playful side of a whale shark. to Rinca to see them, but they inhabit four first time I heard the sound of schools of fish
memories, causing me to change my mind If I had been unfamiliar with whale sharks, other nearby islands as well. Although they changing directions abruptly, and in such
several times before finally deciding on this individual’s odd behavior would have generally spend their time sleeping, I man- a large mass that it was audible. That dive
Komodo, Indonesia. It won out due to the frightened me: Whenever a diver exhaled, aged to catch two of them in a wrestling is forever imprinted in my memory. Visit:
abundance and variety of both marine and the whale shark swam directly towards that match while the others lay around com- DeepWaterPics.com
terrestrial life. diver to suck in the bubbles. It was the fun- pletely uninterested.
Ornate ghost pipefish, Komodo
feature Unusual
Playful sea lion pup at Los Islotes, Baja California Sur, Mexico. Exposure: ISO 160, f/10, 1/160s. Camera gear used for both images: Canon
7d Mark II camera, Tokina 10-17mm fisheye lens, Sea&Sea housing with dual YS-D2 strobes
Sea Lions, Los Islotes, Baja California Sur, Mexico

Text and photos by Frankie Grant On this particular day, it was not pected occasion, one was a bit more
necessarily that the sea lion pups were boisterous. The pup began trying as
During the fall, about an hour’s boat being playful, as this is quite common, best it could to chew on and remove
ride from La Paz, Mexico, newborn sea but more so the type of interaction and my snorkel and even my mask. The two
lions finally begin venturing into the level of engagement of the animals. I of them worked together to distract me
warm waters surrounding Los Islotes. enjoyed their presence for over an hour, with acrobatics, while the other would
The character and behavior of these tucked within a shallow slot in the island go for the snorkel. What a treat! Visit:
sea lion pups makes for one of the most with the two pups. They are known to frankiegrant.com.
spectacular pinniped interactions in all chase bait and carry rocks and sea
of North America. stars in their mouths, but on this unex-
Sea lion pup tries to steal my snorkel! Exposure: ISO 160, f/8, 1/125s
feature Unusual
Giant plumose anemones near Alki Beach open to catch food (above).
Exposure: ISO 400, 10mm, f/18, 1/50s. Gear: Nikon D90 camera, Nikkor
10-24mm lens, Nauticam housing; Polyps extend from sea whips to col-
lect food in Hood Canal (left). Exposure: ISO 800, 16mm, f/8.0, 1/125s.
Gear: Nikon D5 camera, Nikkor 16-35mm lens, Nauticam housing
Puget Sound, Washington, USA This surprise spurred future trips to open sea. For the macro-oriented,
learn more about this unique habitat. large nudibranchs can also be found
Text and photos by Jennifer Idol Although cold water is challenging, in the region.
it has proved the most rewarding for Alki Beach is probably the best
Nothing is quite as exhilarating as me in terms of subjects. Life is unex- known and easiest shore entry I
the feeling of discovery. On my first pectedly rich in cold waters and of a experienced. Puget Sound also
trip through the Puget Sound, I was larger size than expected. connects directly to other areas
heading to Hawaii, an expected Giant Pacific octopus and wolf such as Hood Canal and includes
destination, but decided to pause eels make the region famous, but the cities of Seattle, Tacoma,
for some dives in Seattle. This proved even stranger life, such as the tall sea Olympia and Everett. Kelp rockfish meander in the darkness at depth in Hood Canal (above).
most rewarding, as I discovered for whips and Lewis’ moonsnail, keep Although I aim to be prepared for Exposure: ISO 800, 35mm, f/8, 1/125s. Gear: Nikon D5 camera, Nikkor
myself the Pacific Northwest and the alive the search for more life. From all surprises through research and 16-35mm lens, Nauticam housing; Lewis’ moonsnail carries its house
unusual life in its waters. From wolf kelp rockfish to lingcod, the fish life is experience before diving a location, underneath while on the move, as seen here at Alki Beach (center).
eels to giant plumose anemones, I also abundant. Puget Sound is easy some of the greatest joy can come Exposure: ISO 400, 24mm, f/8.0, 1/60s. Gear: Nikon D90 camera, Nikkor
10-24mm lens, Nauticam housing; I came across a resting lingcod in
was smitten by the variety of substan- to shore-dive in its many inlets and is from a positive revelation. Please visit:
the darkness in Hood Canal (top right). Exposure: ISO 800, 35mm, f/8.0,
tive subjects. protected from the turbulence of the uwDesigner.com 1/125s. Nikon D5 camera, Nikkor 16-35mm lens, Nauticam housing
feature
White choirboys ascidians (Podoclavella sp.) carpet the reef (top left). Exposure: ISO 200, f/14, 1/200s. Gear: Sony A6400 camera, Zeiss
Touit 50mm macro lens, Fantasea FA6400 housing, two Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes; Tiny basket star clinging to yellow and pink multicoloured
sea fan (top right). Exposure: ISO 100, f/5.6, 1/250s. Gear: Sony A6400 camera, Zeiss Touit 50mm macro lens, Fantasea FA6400 housing, two
Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes; Candy nudibranch (Cuthona speciosa) feasting on a multicoloured sea fan (right). Exposure: ISO 160, f/18, 1/250s.
Gear: Nikon D850 camera, Nikonos 105mm macro lens, Fantasea +12.5 diopter wet lens, Isotta housing, two Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes
New Reef, Gordon's Bay, South Africa

Text and photos by Kate Jonker take a look. Always ready for an adven- swayed on larger sea fans and
ture, we all jumped at the chance to dive little puffadder catsharks swam
It was one of those perfect days. The sea uncharted territory! We had a diver who lazily amongst the drifts of snow-
was as flat as a mirror and we decided mapped reefs on board, and he was also like choirboys. A huge variety of
to dive one of Gordon’s Bay’s farther keen to add this to his collection. Before nudibranchs lounged on the pin-
reefs. As the boat skimmed across the long, we were descending the shot line. nacles, with bellies full from feast-
ocean, we noticed a boat was already The feeling of excitement and anticipa- ing on their favourite bryozoans
on the reef we had planned to dive. Not tion was palpable—what would we see? and sea fans.
wanting to drop us where there would What would the reef be like? All too soon, we made our
be folk fishing, the skipper decided to As we approached the reef, an incred- way slowly to the surface. Once
head over to the other reef in the area, ible sight greeted us—huge clouds of on board, I asked the skipper
which was about a kilometre away. As snow carpeted the floor, broken only by and mapper to keep the reef
we approached the other reef, my heart pinnacles of yellow and pink. The seabed a secret as the delicate marine
sank with disappointment—there were was covered with huge clumps of very life could easily be damaged
Fiery nudibranch (Okenia amoenula) feasting on three fishing boats there, too! unusual white choirboys, and the pinna- by less careful divers. Unfortunately, the tradiction in terms! My motto has always
bryozoans (Laminopora jellyae), of which there are But the skipper had a plan up his cles were swathed with yellow and pink mapper did eventually make the coordi- been “expect the unexpected” when
so many on this reef. Exposure: ISO 160, f/22, 1/250s. sleeve. He knew of an undived reef close multicoloured sea fans and huge colonies nates public, but named the reef “Kate’s diving—and this really was one of those
Gear: Nikon D850 camera, Nikonos 105mm macro by and asked if we wanted to go and of fragile yellow bryozoans. Basket stars Secret Reef,” which was a bit of a con- occasions. Visit: katejonker.com
lens, Isotta housing, two Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes
feature Unusual
Crocodiles, Garden of the Queen, Cuba

Text and photos by Matthew Meier typically occur while American crocodile floating at the surface. Exposure: ISO 400,
on a surface interval f/5.6, 1/320s. Gear: Nikon D3 camera, Nikon 70-200mm lens
The American crocodile is a prehistoric between dives, and at
creature that has been on this earth since times, the water is not deep enough to do in the water at a time. While the opera-
the days of the dinosaurs and coming anything but snorkel. When in the water, tors have been diving with the crocodiles
face-to-face with them in Cuba was one I often found myself looking over the top without incident for many years, the ani-
Gear used for all underwater images: Nikon D3 camera, 17-35mm lens, Subal housing, of the highlights of my diving career. The of my camera housing as a reminder of mals have lightning-fast reflexes and can
two Sea&Sea YS-250 strobes. American crocodile swimming over a shallow sea grass crocodiles live amongst the mangroves how close I was to these impressive rep- be unpredictable. It is never a good idea
bed (above). Exposure: ISO 200, f/8, 1/250s; Floating at the surface, mouth open (top and shallow sea grass beds that make up tiles. The dive guides control interactions, to let your guard down in their presence.
left). Exposure: ISO 200, f/8, 1/200s; Swimming through sun rays (top right). Exposure: ISO this marine protected area. Encounters and only a couple of people are allowed Visit: MatthewMeierPhoto.com
200, f/9, 1/160s; Resting in a sea grass bed (center). Exposure: ISO 200, f/8, 1/250s
feature Unusual
Dive buddies of
the photogra-
pher getting Mr.
Bones ready for
a dive on the
Palawan wreck
in Kwajalein Atoll
of the Marshall
Islands (above);
Selfie with Mr.
Bones during
the dive (right);
Mr. Bones at the
wheel of the
wreck (below)
Final dramatic black-and-

white image of Mr. Bones
on the wreck (right)
Mr. Bones, Marshall Islands life-size skeleton named Mr. Bones. water, we moored the boat in a shal- helm, and as my friends exited the
The brilliant idea was to take Mr. low, sandy spot and tested his skills. To scene, I took a few shots. My friend Tim
Text and photos by Brandi Mueller Bones on a dive to our favorite wreck make him sink, we zip-tied weights to gave me a signal to stop shooting, as
around Kwajalein Atoll, the Palawan, his feet. He gave us the okay sign, and he swam over to Mr. Bones to adjust his
The best ideas are formed around which has a very photogenic stern we took him to the wreck. gauzy shawl. With it floating perfectly
11 p.m. surrounded by dive buddies steering wheel. On the boat ride, we had a slight in the current, I snapped my favorite
and maybe a few adult beverages, The next morning, I found myself issue that required emergency spine shot of the session, and we managed
right? In this case, it was the night driving a boat to the wreck with three and rib surgery on Mr. Bones, but a to get Mr. Bones safety back to shore
of Halloween, and while most divers other divers… well, four actually— few more zip-ties had him back in and put him back into retirement until
were in ocean-themed costumes, can’t forget to include Mr. Bones! Not one piece. After descending to the the next year’s Halloween wreck dive.
one friend was carrying around a knowing how he would behave under- Palawan, we placed Mr. Bones at the Visit: brandiunderwater.com
feature
Goliath grouper aggregation heading to a rubble pile

(above). Exposure: ISO 200, f/11, FL 14, 1/125s; A goliath
grouper smiles (left). Exposure: ISO 100, f/5.6, FL 17, 1/125s
Goliath Grouper, Wreck Trek, Jupiter, Florida, USA

Text and photos by Gary Rose, MD least 50 goliath groupers. I was sur-
rounded, buffeted, and heaved by
It was just another wonderful late summer day these giants. There was no room to
of diving the Wreck Trek in Jupiter, Florida, when turn around. They grunted and rum-
I found myself in the middle of the annual goli- bled in rage with the resulting shock
ath grouper aggregation. I was surrounded by waves battering me inside and out.
at least one hundred of these colossal animals. With no way back, I had no
Most were between four to six feet long and a choice but to continue forward. The
few were as long as eight feet. I then spotted a passage was narrow and very dark.
tightly packed group of ten of them heading to I felt like I was going to be crushed
a rubble pile. I took a photo and then they mys- at any moment. I sensed the tun-
teriously vanished, in an instant, into the rubble. nel getting slightly brighter. Was this
Then, right in front of me was a 600-pounder, real or was my hyper-adrenalized
looking at me with a goliath grouper smile, and mind imagining it? Yes! A blue glow
beckoning me to follow… if I dared. She led me ahead. Increasing light. Suddenly, they bat- Goliath groupers with diver on the Bonaire
into an opening, that with camera and tank, I tered me one last time in this unique tunnel, and wreck. Exposure: ISO200, f/11, FL 14, 1/125s. All
had to squeeze carefully through. then they pushed me out into glorious aquama- photos were taken with a Nikon D500 cam-
Goliath grouper aggregation within the tunnel. Suddenly, I was in a tunnel packed with at rine open water. Visit: garyrosephotos.com era with a Tokina 10-17 wide-angle lens, in a
Exposure: ISO 100, f/5.6, FL 17, 1/125s Nauticam housing with Inon Z330 strobes.
feature Unusual
Fishing boats on
Qian Dao Lake
(left), one of
which served as
a diving platform
for divers at the
dive site (below)
Carving on a building of the submerged Lion City in Qian Dao Lake
China's Qian Dao – Lake of a Thousand Islands

Text and photos by Don Silcock some 290,000 people, many of whom That night, we stayed just outside started our descent. explain all this to my wife, should I ever
were descended from the founders of the Qian Dao National Park; early the next At 10m, I could tell that this was going see her again.
By far, my most unusual dive would have main town, Lion City. The town, which was morning, we boarded a ferry to take us to be an interesting dive, as it went After a couple of minutes in the pitch
to be while I was living in Shanghai as established about 1,800 years ago, now across the very scenic lake to the near- dark rapidly. At about 20m, I was no black, I aborted the dive and returned
part of an 18-month work assignment in lies 30 to 40m underwater but was found est town by the submerged Lion City. A longer able to see my gauges, and safely to the surface. We did another
China, where I stumbled on the local div- by the main Chinese TV station, CCTV, dur- local fishing boat was our dive platform shortly afterwards, my descent halted two dives that day—the story of which
ing community, which revolves around ing a project about lost ancient treasure. for the weekend and, as we chugged as I landed in what felt like deep and was told in a full article on Qian Dao
training and trips outside of China, apart Intrigued, I signed up for the next trip and out to the dive site, I noticed a large very soft silt. At that point in time, I was Lake in issue #43. I subsequently found
from diving Qian Dao Lake—some five arranged to bring all my drysuit, dive and ship about one kilometre away, which a little concerned—I was in zero visibility, out that the large boat in the distance
hours southwest. camera gear back to Shanghai. Then, on seemed a bit strange. After a briefing my buddies had disappeared during the was actually a dredger, which explained
Qian Dao Lake was created in 1959 as one Friday night in September 2008, we and warning that the visibility may be descent, I was a very long way from any the zero visibility on the bottom! Please
part of a dam project, which displaced were off for a weekend of adventure! quite bad, we entered the water and support, and I was wondering how to visit: indopacificimages.com
feature
Diver capturing images

of the “black morph”
manta (above)
Waving Manta Ray, Revillagigedo Archipelago, Mexico

Text and photos by Olga Torrey in this region, were in abundance. Even with all and spun in all directions. One manta appeared
that marine life to photograph, the giant mantas to pay special attention to us.
I was very excited to do a liveaboard trip on were the stars of the show. Finally, it was time for us to leave the water
the Nautilus Belle Amie to the Revillagigedo On almost every dive, we interacted with up reluctantly. We climbed onto the skiff for the last
Archipelago in Mexico. I am not comfortable to six of these gentle giants at a time. The man- time to head back to the main boat. Before the
on long boat rides, but I knew the 24-hour ride tas seemed as curious about us as we were motor started, one manta came half out of the
traveling 285 miles across the Pacific Ocean about them. They allowed us to get extremely water and used his large fin to wave goodbye
would be worth getting seasick for. I had never close, and we could tell that they were highly to us. If I did not see it with my own eyes, I would
observed giant manta rays before, and I was intelligent creatures. The mantas enjoyed hover- never have believed this story. To this day, I
looking forward to the experience. I could not ing above the open circuit divers and allowing have tears in my eyes thinking about it, and I
wait to capture images of the manta rays and their exhaust bubbles to give them a massage. have to wonder how the manta knew this was
the other pelagic marine life for which these The most unusual part of this trip happened our last dive.
islands are famous. after the last dive. Larry Cohen (my dive buddy) I captured all images with the Olympus OM-D
The trip did not disappoint. We encountered and I stayed with our dive guide and four man- E-M5 camera in a Nauticam housing. I used
whitetip, blacktip and silky sharks. We observed tas, after everyone else was back on the small the Panasonic 7-14mm wide-angle lens and
schools of jacks and torpedo scad. Mexican hog- skiff. We enjoyed what seemed like a beautiful Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes for lighting. Please visit: Mantas enjoy hovering over divers, as the exhaust bubbles give them
fish and Clarion angelfish, which are only found ballet as these large, graceful animals moved fitimage.nyc. SOURCE: DIVENINJAEXPEDITIONS.COM a massage (above); Giant oceanic manta ray swimming with Clarion
angelfish and a remora (top left)
feature Unusual
At Hot Rocks, volcanic gases bubble out of the sand, Sangeang Volcano, near Komodo National Park,
Indonesia (top left and center). Exposure: ISO 160, f/14, 1/100s and ISO 160, f/8, 1/80s; Soft and hard coral
display near the volcanic bubbles at Hot Rocks, Komodo, Indonesia (top right). Exposure: ISO 160, f/14,
1/100s. Gear for all images: Canon EOS 5D Mark IV camera, Canon 8-15mm fisheye lens, Nauticam hous-
ing, Ikelite DS160 strobes.
Bubbling Reefs in the Philippines and Indonesia

Text and photos by Beth Watson The second dive site is located in a volcanic
crater, which is tricky to locate. You will need
Two dive sites piqued my interest and curios- an experienced guide who is knowledgeable
ity with their unique topography, with both of the area to find it. The Hot Rocks dive site
featuring volcanic bubbles. The first dive site is is located in the waters around the volcanic
located in the Philippines, just south of Chicken Sangeang Island in Indonesia. The volcano is
Feather Island, where a small volcanic cra- active, providing streams of volcanic gases ris-
ter lies. The bottom is covered with volcanic ing from the substrate, which creates a breath-
stones. Bubbles of sulphuric gas rise up to the taking underwater landscape.
surface, creating shimmering apparitions in the It is dramatic, with the deeper area sport-
water column. ing colorful coral formations and sandy slopes,
The rocky substrate is very warm to the black coral bushes, gorgonian sea fans, pygmy
touch. In fact, fellow divers and I were able to seahorses, octopus, lobster and nudibranchs.
boil an egg there during one of our dives. The The Chicken Feather Island and Hot Rocks
rest of the dive site is varied and diverse, with dive sites are unique and perfectly suited for
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Philippines (left). Exposure: ISO 160, f/9, 1/125s
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opinion
Text by Simon Pridmore

Photos by Matthew Meier
and Don Silcock
This issue’s column tells the story

of two dives, which took place
half a world away from each
other. The dives placed two
divers in a situation where they
had to make a choice. What
would you have done?
Peter’s choice
The Right Choice

Peter was in the Galapagos Islands. It
was the last dive of the last day of a
12-day journey around the southern
Making
islands and up north to Wolf and Darwin.
He and his fellow divers had seen almost
everything on their wish list at some point
during the trip, but they had not seen
any whale sharks.
Peter was waiting on the surface for
DON SILCOCK
the other divers to get back into the ten-
der boat, when some sixth sense made jammed his regulator into his mouth, deceptive ease, the whale shark was with a flight scheduled for the following he after a better view? He had already
him glance down. Passing not more deflated his BCD and dropped below putting ever more distance and depth day and not much air in his cylinder? had the best view he was going to get,
than 10m below was the unmistakable the surface. He inverted himself and between them. As he plunged down, What was he hoping to get out of this? A when he was still on the surface, as the
starry-night-patterned back of a large kicked down. No doubt sensing a a sliver of self-awareness entered his world-class photograph? His small point- giant fish cruised by beneath. The ocean
whale shark. His initial shock turned into threat, the whale shark dived too. mind. What was he doing trying to keep and-shoot camera was nowhere near up around him was dark and green. Below,
action. He knew he had to move quickly. Peter followed, equalising like crazy up with a plummeting whale shark, at to the task. The best he could hope for it became even darker.
Not taking his eyes off the huge fish, he and finning as fast as he could. With the end of the final dive of the last day, would be a shot of the massive tail. Was He stopped finning, aimed his small
opinion
camera at the whale shark’s large back was swiftly spotted.

and tail receding into the gloom and The rest of his team were very pleased
clicked. He checked his contents gauge, to see him. They had feared the worst
blinked in surprise at how little air he had after they lost sight of him. When Peter
left, and made a slow ascent back to got back on the liveaboard, he down-
the surface. He popped up a short dis- loaded his photos from the dive and
tance away from the tender boat and then lightened and increased the con-
A New Book from Simon Pridmore

When his country need- him this title, people
ed him most, Palauan were speaking both
Francis Toribiong came literally and figura-
along and helped the tively.
Pacific island nation
find its place in the Toribiong was so com-
world and become pletely different from
an independent, all of his contemporar-
forward-looking 20th ies in terms of his de-
century state. And meanor, his ambitions
MATTHEW MEIER
he achieved this, and his vision, that it
improbably, via the was as if he had come trast on the last hastily snapped shot. The viduals that had come close to check out arrived at a depth of 38m and wedged
sport of scuba div- from outer space. Palau whale shark was almost invisible in the the divers, before veering away. himself into the slope to get a stable
ing.This is the inspiring had never seen any- murk. All you could see were the distinc- This dive, however, was very different. base to film from.
tale of an absolutely body quite like him and tive white flashes on a light grey, vaguely The divers had already been in the water The view was incredible. The school of
unique life, written there was no historical shark-shaped background. for some time when their guide spotted hammerheads flowed past him, some
by Simon Pridmore precedent for what he Peter looked at the picture and a huge group of hammerheads swim- almost within touching distance. They
and illustrated did. He had no opera- reflected on the fact that this was a ming towards them. The divers were at were in a long line, their bodies undulat-
with images of the tions manual to consult small reward for risking his neck. He won- a depth of around 27m and the sharks ing effortlessly as they cruised by. Still,
beautiful islands of and no examples to fol- dered again at what had possessed seemed to be about 15m below them. they kept coming. He heard someone
Palau, above and below the water. low. He wrote his own life. him to embark on his wild ride and was Andrew knew that if he stayed where he tapping insistently and glanced up. It
relieved that he had come to his senses was, he would only get to see the school was the dive guide, motioning him to
Toribiong was born poor, had no Toribiong was the first Palauan ever to in time to put the brakes on and get passing by in the distance, as on their ascend to a shallower depth.
academic leanings and no talent for seek and seize the international nar- back to the surface before he ran out of previous dives. This time, he wanted to Andrew knew that he must be low on
diplomacy. Yet he was driven to suc- rative. No Palauan, in any context or air completely. get closer. air and was probably in deco, but he did
ceed by a combination of duty, faith, field, had previously thought to go out There was a strong current running, but not dare take his eye off his viewfinder.
a deep-seated determination to do into the world and say: “This is Palau— Andrew’s choice he began to crawl down the slope, using He was getting the best footage he had
the right thing and an absolute refusal what we have is wonderful. Come and Andrew was on his third dive of the day in his pointer with one hand like a grappling ever shot. He ignored the guide and kept
ever to compromise his values. And, as see!” This is his astonishing story. Indonesia’s Banda Sea. Over the previous hook, jamming it behind rocks and into filming the school as it patrolled past him.
well as all that, he was Palau’s first ever couple of days, he and his group of divers crevices. The other hand was occupied Soon, they were gone.
parachutist—known by islanders as “the Available in paperback or ebook on: had seen large schools of hammerhead with his video camera, which he directed Just as he was about to ascend,
Palauan who fell from the sky.” In giving Amazon, Apple, GooglePlay and Kobo sharks out in the blue as well as a few indi- at the approaching hammerheads. He he turned and saw, in the distance,
opinion Get the series!
Essential books by Simon Pridmore that
no diver should be without.
spur of the moment, when the adrena- Available as

line is running and narcosis is dulling paperback, ebook
the brain, is always at risk of making a or audibook at
flawed decision and taking the wrong Amazon, Audible
course of action. and iTunes.
At some point, any of us may find
ourselves confronted with a dilemma
similar to the one these two guys had
to deal with. Self-discipline is the key, of
course, but you don’t know if you have
got enough of it—if you are a Peter or
an Andrew—until the moment arrives
and you are put to the test.
A good strategy is to establish some
personal rules to dive by. Work these
out in the cold light of day, rationally
and with plenty of sober reflection.
Your list may include things like: “Once
I am on the surface, the dive is always
over,” “Never go into deco on a single
tank,” “Always surface with at least 30 Buy it today!
bar,” or “Always carry a pony bottle Click on
below 30m.” You get the idea.
You choose your own rules; then
each book
make a promise to yourself to stick to cover to go
DON SILCOCK
them, no matter what. Then, there is a to its order
another big school of hammerheads spitting the water out. Fortunately, Andrew suffered no better chance that you will make the page.
approaching. Without thinking, he He was still finning as hard as he symptoms of decompression sickness right choice when your turn comes. 
swam towards it, the adrenaline pump- could, up towards the light, the regula- following his rapid emergency ascent.
ing through his veins. This was truly tor mouthpiece gripped between his Every time he subsequentlyshowed Simon Pridmore is the author of the
the dive of his life. The hammerheads teeth. Almost immediately, the urge the video from the dive and told this international bestsellers Scuba Confi-
almost filled his screen, and they were to breathe returned, an urge he could story (which was often), he would dential: An Insider’s Guide to Becom-
coming ever closer. not resist. He inhaled again, expecting always say he had no regrets about ing a Better Diver, Scuba Professional:
nothing, but miraculously there was air. doing the dive the way he did. Insights into Sport Diver Training & Oper-
Then, he ran out of air. It was not much, but it was enough to Would he do it again? “No way,” he ations and Scuba Fundamental: Start
get him through the final few metres. shakes his head. “But that is because Diving the Right Way. He is also the
He tried to take a breath, but there He broke the surface, removed his reg- I have already done it!” You would co-author of the Diving & Snorkeling
was nothing there. He looked around. ulator and took several lungfuls of air, notice, however, that when he says Guide to Bali and the Diving & Snorkel-
The guide and the other divers had left. gasping. He inflated his BCD orally and this, his wife, the mother of their two ing Guide to Raja Ampat & Northeast
All he could do was try to get to the waited for the boat to pick him up. children, does not join in with the nerv- Indonesia. His recently published books
surface before he drowned. He swam The guide had witnessed the whole ous laughter that always follows. include The Diver Who Fell From The
up, with no other thought in his mind thing and was as relieved as Andrew Sky, Dive into Taiwan, Scuba Exception-
but that he had to get air. His regulator was that he was still alive. He made him Dealing with dilemmas al: Become the Best Diver You Can Be, Learn more!
was still in his mouth. He was not going breathe pure oxygen for a while and Both these guys lived to dive another Scuba Physiological: Think You Know All Visit the author’s
to make it. He had to take a breath. told him that he would have to skip the day, which is just as well; otherwise, we About Scuba Medicine? Think Again! website at:
He inhaled cautiously and got a mouth next day’s diving, the final day of their wouldn’t know their stories. A diver who and the Dining with Divers series of
SimonPridmore.com
full of sea instead of air. The water trip, so that he would have a good finds that they are in a position of hav- cookbooks. For more information, see
touched his throat and he choked, 48 hours between diving and flying. ing to make a crucial choice on the his website at: SimonPridmore.com.
media Coral Reefs
Sealife &
Edited by Coral Reefs: Majestic Realms under the
Photosynthesis
Catherine Sea, by Peter F. Sale Light to Life: The Miracle of Photosynthesis
GS Lim
and How it Can Save the Planet, by Raffael
Since the 1970s, coral reefs worldwide Jovine
have lost more than half of their living cor-
al. An introduction to the beauty, wonder Biologist Raffael Jovine shows how photo-
and complexity of coral reefs, this book synthesis can lead the way to the future:
reframes the challenge of restoring coral by greening the desert, bringing oceans on
reefs as a noble venture that steers us into land, planting mangrove forests and oyster
safe waters. It also relates how their de- banks. He describes how this process has the
cline is an existential warning to humanity power to grow food, reshape continents,
by depicting them within the wider con- drive biogeochemical cycles, stabilise the cli-
text of global climate change. mate and regulate the weather. In short, by
harnessing it, we can regenerate the planet
Publisher: Yale University Press and change how we interact with it.
Date: 25 May 2021
Hardcover: 288 pages Publisher: Short Books
ISBN-10: 0300253834 Date: 22 April 2021
ISBN-13: 978-0300253832 Hardcover: 224 pages
ISBN-10: 1780724705
ISBN-13: 978-1780724706
Oceans
The Blue Wonder: Why Ocean Conservation
the Sea Glows, Fish Sing,
and Other Astonishing Conserving the Oceans: The Politics of Large
Insights from the Ocean,
by Frauke Bagusche
Marine Protected Areas, by Justin Alger
FREE Download
This book details efforts to boost the pace and
Take a deep dive with scale of Marine Protected Areas. Through an
marine biologist Frauke analysis of domestic political economies—and
Bagusche and see based on three case studies in the US, Australia
the oceans in a new and Palau—it explains how states have protected
light. Read about fish the oceans while remaining responsive to business
that communicate by singing loudly, an interests. Author Justin Alger examines the reach
octopus that is also a master impersonator, why the sea and limits of business influence, showing how the
glows at night, weddings amongst corals, underwater domestic political economy of a specific ocean
drugstores and more. Using scientific discoveries and her space can reshape a global norm to adapt to lo-
own research, the author writes with the heart of a poet cal economic realities. He provides a critical analy-
to rekindle our love for the sea and reignite our desire to sis of the processes by which global environmental
protect it. norms become domestic policy, while acknowl-
edging global progress and the growing ambition Let’s dive into the world
Publisher: Greystone Books to conserve ocean ecosystems. of wonderful books?
Date: 8 June 2021
Hardcover: 304 pages Publisher: OUP USA www.DolphinsDivingDreams.com
ISBN-10: 1771646047 Date: 6 May 2021
ISBN-13: 978-1771646048 Hardcover: 240 pages
ISBN-10: 0197540538
ISBN-13: 978-0197540534
marine
mammals Tickets on sale NOW
www.underwatertour.com.au
Edited by
Catherine GS Lim
MMO IWDG / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / CC BY-SA 3.0
Long-finned pilot whale cow with her calf, off the coast of Ireland
Buoy in Celtic Sea tracks oceanic noise Underwater Tour 2021

The waters of the Celtic Sea taken by Ocean Research and tion, [...] it will also reduce the risk Inspiration. Adventure. Discovery
off the coast of Baltimore Conservation Association (ORCA) of ship strikes."
Ireland, a non-profit organisation
in west Cork, Ireland has based in Cork, in partnership with Sounds informing science
been playing host to a two- Rainforest Connection and sup- Topher White, Chief Executive of
tonne, 13ft yellow buoy ported by Huawei Ireland. Rainforest Connection said, “No
since March 2021. ORCAIreland's Co-Founder and matter where we look on earth, life
Executive Director Emer Keaveney expresses and asserts itself through
told the Irish Examiner that it was sound. There’s no better way
Equipped with an autonomous a “brilliant opportunity” for Irish to tap into the subtlety and the
Underwater Tour Show Live Broadcast, Sunday 23 May 2021
hydrophone, the buoy's function scientific research to lead the way essence of ecology than through Featuring | Aaron Wong, Dr Richard Smith, Dr Janet Lanyon
is to conduct for the first time real- globally, and an example of how how nature calls to itself.
time acoustic monitoring of the technology can be utilised for “To capture this at scale within One Fabulous Event! Special Guests Stars, Great Audience Prizes
water's cetaceans to assess how environmental purposes. In a video our oceans, and harness the
oceanic noise pollution affects interview with Sky News, she said, power of cloud-AI and big-data
plus Underwater Tour Awards Celebrations
them. Deployed as part of the "We know very little about the rate analysis to gather the ecologi-
Smart Whale Sounds project, it of ship strikes in Irish waters and cal insight, is the beginning of an Aw
ard
t to
the Ocean
u
Gur
From e hear
will also track the distribution and how often whales are hit by ships, unprecedented era of ambitious
th
behaviour of whale species in real- and we also know very little about scientific discovery and critical
time and be used to train machine how loud our ships are." conservation work,” he added.
learning models to identify different Presently, 25 species of resident
species' calls. The data collected Reducing ship strikes and migratory cetaceans live in
will be used to create a marine She added that using the organi- Irish waters, comprising a third of
Proudly brought to you by

wildlife detection and classification sation's Observer App, mariners all cetaceans found worldwide.
model in Irish waters, which can be can be notified whenever there is The south coast is one of the
applied to other regions worldwide. a potential whale in the area, and world’s most important foraging,
thus "what they can do is they can resting and reproductive habitats
ORCA reduce the speed and then that for cetaceans.  SOURCES:
The project is being under- will limit the impact of noise pollu- IRISH EXAMINER, CYPRUS SUBSEA
INCIDENCEMATRIX / FLICKR COMMONS / CC BY 2.0
NOAA NMFS / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / PUBLIC DOMAIN

marine
Whales at Dana
Point, California,
mammals USA
Edited by
Catherine GS Lim
First Whale Heritage FACT FILE
Site in the Americas According to Sea Watch

Foundation, based on the
results from their Whale and
Business rivals worked at Capt Dave’s
Dolphin Count last year, the
together to make Dana Dana Point Dolphin & Whale apods of a thousand or more on
waters along the Scottish
Watching Safari. a weekly basis. And we see pods
Point a Whale Heritage They had met each other at as big as 10,000...” she added.
coastline continue to be a hot
Site. In late January 2021, spot for cetaceans as well as
an event and hit it off. They soon
other marine animals like sun-
the World Cetacean realised that despite being from Recognition fish and seals.
Alliance (WCA) named rival companies, they shared a Together, Anderson and Kalez
Numbers-wise, we are talking
common goal in wanting to pro- progressively strived towards their
Dana Point, California, mote Dana Point as a premiere mutual goal. And in 2019, working Pair of common dolphin
about sightings of nine ceta-
a Whale Heritage Site, a cean and four non-cetacean
dolphin and whale-watching with a lawyer, they managed to
Share your views on

species. Harbour porpoises
first for in the Americas. destination. Thus, they worked get Dana Point trademarked as
were the most commonly seen
together to achieve this, insofar “The Dolphin and Whale Watch-
species across the UK, with
The reasons were obvious: As as to even travel together to dif- ing Capital of the World.” Then in
one of the world’s top whale-
watching destinations, it hosts a
ferent hot spots around the world
to see dolphins and whales. On
January 2021 came the WCA’s
recognition of Dana Point as a Scotland’s first cetacean common dolphins and bottle-
nose dolphins coming in sec-
ond and third respectively.
conservation strategy
variety of whales all year round, such trips, they saw the same Whale Heritage Site.
At the end of the nine-day
including the blue whale. It has things again and again. Speaking with Orange Coast
event, which involved both
more dolphins per square mile “We would go to those hot Magazine, she said, “We have
scientists and volunteers, 9,784
than anywhere in the world. spots and then I would think … to up our game and increase
individual dolphins, whales
Dana Point also has a small non- this is not as great as what we education, public involvement. Here is the opportunity to Ireland Executive.
and porpoises were reported
commercial harbor, community have … For instance, you can We really are a poster child for share your opinions, with Its objective is to ensure the
in 1,348 sightings across the
support, and undertaken public go to some destinations, and the program. They loved the effective management to achieve
outreach and education, advo- they’ll have whales, but only fact that millions of kids come
regard to the cetaceans and maintain the current favour-
Unnited Kingdom. 
cacy and research efforts. seasonally. So you can only go through the Ocean Institute. in UK waters—by taking able status of the nine species. It
Although the location re- for a short period of time. Or, They were really excited about part in the public consulta- highlights certain pressures where the pressures they face.
ceived the award due to its they’ll have whales, but the our Festival of Whales. But this is tion on the first UK Dolphin further research or extra man- He added that it built on “the
inherent merits with regard to weather precludes you from bean ongoing process.” agement measures may help work we are already doing to
cetaceans, this might not have ing able to go any time of year,” Kalez added, “When my dad and Porpoise Conservation to improve the conservation of safeguard bottlenose dolphins,
come about if not for the efforts said Anderson, in an interview started this, it was his dream that Strategy. marine mammals. harbour porpoise, minke whales
of the owners of two competing with KCRW. everyone would know that the According to Scotland’s Natural and Risso’s dolphins through our
whale-watching companies at In other instances, the places California gray whale travels Focusing on nine of the most Environment Minister Ben Mac Marine Protected Area (MPA) net-
Dana Point. did not have the numbers: through here November through commonly found dolphin, pherson, “This consultation is a work, which now covers in excess
“They’ll have dolphins, for in- May. It makes me very proud whale and porpoise species milestone for marine protection of 37 percent of our sea area.”
Rivals with a common goal stance, they’ll be excited about that that’s something we’ve ac- in UK waters, the strategy has and includes a range of measures You can review and comment
Donna Kalez is the Co-President a pod of dolphins that’s about complished. That we now have been developed by the Scottish that will help us to conserve dol- on the strategy from now till 14
of Dana Wharf Sportfishing & fifty to a hundred strong, and for the credibility of the world.”  Government, in collaboration with phin, whale and porpoise popula- June 2021 at: consult.gov.scot.
Whale Watching, while Gisele us, our average-size pod is sev- SOURCES: WHALE HERITAGE SITE, USA TO- the UK Government, the Welsh tions in our waters, and allow us  SOURCES: SCOTTISH GOVERNMENT,
Anderson is the Vice President eral hundred, and we see meg- DAY, KCRW, ORANGE COAST MAGAZINE Government and the Northern to better understand and address GRAMPIAN ONLINE, THE SCOTSMAN
shark tales
PHOTO ILLUSTRATION COMPILED WITH IMAGES FROM PETER SYMES AND PIXABAY
Edited by Peter Symes
Sharks use Earth’s

magnetic field to
find their way PUT YOUR MILITARY SERVICE TO SERVICE!
By subjecting sharks in a cage to magnetic Did you know that you can use your G.I. Bill® to pay for many of our scuba courses? We offer a wide selection of programs.
fields that replicate those found in different Start your mission today by learning to dive,
dive building skills,
skills helping the environment,
environment or becoming a dive professional!
professional
geographical locations, scientists showed
bonnethead sharks can indeed use Earth's For more information, please contact your local NAUI VA approved testing center or contact us
magnetic field to navigate. to find the one closest to you by emailing armedforces@naui.org or calling 1 (800) 553-6284.
Since at least the 1970s, research The scientists captured the juve- sharks persistently changed their
ers have suspected that the nile bonnetheads in St George headings to swim north into the OPEN WATER SCUBA DIVER | FREEDIVER | INSTRUCTOR | MASTER DIVER |& SO MUCH MORE
elasmobranchs—a group of fish Sound, off the Florida Panhandle, pool’s wall, toward their pre-
containing sharks, rays, skates and and placed them in a room- ferred habitat, which told the
sawfish—can detect magnetic sized pool surrounded by copper researchers they were using this
fields. However, up until now, no wire. This allowed researchers to information to navigate home.
one had shown that sharks use simulate magnetic cues from the
the fields to locate themselves capture site and from positions Researchers still do not know how
or navigate. roughly 375 miles north and south. sharks derive positional information
from the magnetic field, such as a
BREAK BARRIERS.
By exposing sharks to certain When the applied field was the map and compass information. As
magnetic cues, researchers same as at the collection site, magnetic fields go right through
from Florida State University the researchers found that the an animal, magnetic field recep-
have now managed to demon- animals swam in random direc- tors could be placed anywhere
strate that sharks not only have tions. And when applying a field in an animal's body, and there is Go further than ever before by enhancing your knowledge with NAUI’s
an ability to detect Earth’s mag- similar to the northern site, the no obvious place to look for such
netic field, they are also able sharks appeared disorientated. receptors. One study alleges they
continuing education programs. Gain confidence in yourself and push your
to use it to travel long distances may be located in the naso-olfac- limits with NAUI. Visit NAUI.org to find your specialty!
with accuracy. However, when subjected to tory capsules of sharks.  SOURCES:
the southern magnetic field, the CURRENT BIOLOGY, ROYAL SOCIETY.
+ 1 813.628.6284 NAUIHQ@NAUI.ORG @NAUIWorldwide
tech
Mixed team
of open
circuit and
closed circuit
rebreather
dive buddies
Text by Michael Rothschild, MD

Photos by Michael Rothschild
and Alice Chong
Nowadays, more and more

recreational divers are com-
ing into contact with technical
rebreather divers, perhaps even
being buddied up with one on
a dive. What follows are some
good things for open circuit div-
ers to know about closed circuit
rebreathers. Michael Rothschild
gives us a quick glimpse into
rebreather diving and what one
can expect when diving in a
Mixed Teams
mixed team.
Bill and Tony had been dive buddies Tips for
for several years, frequently visiting the
local wrecks near their shore town.
Tony had been content doing single
tank recreational dives, but Bill had
gotten into technical diving and had
recently certified on a closed circuit
rebreather. Given their longstanding
of OC & CCR Divers
friendship and the lack of other local MICHAEL ROTHSCHILD
rebreather divers, Bill had continued
to dive with Tony, visiting the same on a closed circuit rebreather (CCR). This cussion of helpful things for a relatively of time based on the individual limits of A range of configurations
wrecks and adjusting the dive plan so may be a regular team, or a buddy pair inexperienced OC diver to know about each member; that is not what this arti- Please remember that rebreathers are
that Tony would never get close to his formed when two people who are vaca- CCRs. It is NOT intended to be a com- cle is about. much less standardized than open circuit
gas or decompression limits. tioning alone decide to dive together. prehensive introduction to rebreathers, Some rebreathers are of the semi- gear, and there is a wide range of equip-
It is even possible that an OC diver will but rather a quick overview of things that closed design (SCRs), which work differ- ment configurations and procedures in
With the increasing popularity of encounter a rebreather diver from anoth- an OC diver should learn to be a safe ently than CCRs. For the sake of clar- use. For the purpose of simplicity, I am
rebreathers, it is becoming more and er team, and rescue or assistance might member of a mixed OC/CCR team. Also, ity, I have used the abbreviation CCR considering a common CCR setup for rec-
more likely that an open circuit (OC) be necessary. I am assuming here that any safe team throughout this article, but much of this reational diving within no-decompression
diver will be buddied up with someone This review came out of an online dis- will discuss gas and dive planning ahead applies to SCRs as well. limits (NDL). It is true that some CCR divers
tech talk Figure 1. Schematic of an electronic CCR
MICHAEL ROTHSCHILD
have complex gear such as special gas- systems are working well. Even before in the loop in the breathable range—
ses that are unsafe to breathe in shallow or after the pre-breathe, there are a too high or too low is lethal.
water or multiple bailout tanks. However, number of things on the checklist that we
it is fairly unlikely that such a diver would may be going over, and that is not the Different designs
be in a mixed team with the OC diver for time to be chatty. Once again, this is not meant to be a
whom this article is intended. comprehensive overview of rebreath-
It would be confusing and counterpro- Rebreather basics for OC divers ers—there are different types of rebreath-
ductive to try to cover all possibilities in an From the point of view of an OC buddy er design, and I have simplified the
article of this scope. Therefore, any mixed in a mixed team, there are a few basic diagram by showing something called
dive team MUST have a thorough discus- CCR concepts that are important to an eCCR (electronic CCR) in which oxy- MICHAEL ROTHSCHILD
sion before entering the water about the know. A CCR works by circulating a single gen addition is partially controlled by a
specific gear configuration being used, breath in a closed pathway (the “loop”) computer that monitors oxygen sensors. addition to some method of automati- require venting of the loop. Discuss this
and the expectations for each team mem- in which there is a container of a chemi- Other designs involve the continual flow cally adding oxygen. (See Figure 1.) option with your buddy ahead of time.
ber during the dive and cal (a “scrubber”) that of oxygen into the loop and reliance on During the pre-dive discussion, the
in an emergency. If you see divers breathing removes the carbon the diver to manually replace consumed CCR diver will show you where these but- Bailout
dioxide (CO2) that the oxygen (mCCR). tons are. It is crucial to remember which The term “bailout” refers to a complete,
Prebreathe
through their rebreathers on diver produces. is which. As we will see below, in some independent OC system carried by
One thing to know a dive boat, do not ask them The machine also A very important button emergencies, you might add diluent for rebreather divers—a tank with a first and
about CCR divers questions, and if you do, do has the ability to But with any design, there will be a but- an unresponsive diver, but NEVER oxy- second stage regulator. In some designs,
is that we love to add gas from two ton somewhere to allow the manual gen, which can cause life threatening bailout and diluent come from the same
talk about our gear not assume they are rude if tanks into the loop: addition of diluent to the loop. This may spikes in oxygen levels. Adding diluent will gas source, and there may be multiple
at all times EXCEPT they do not answer. This is the pure oxygen (O2) be on the ADV (automatic diluent valve, ALWAYS introduce fresh gas of a known, tanks for different depths, but the idea is
during our pre-dive and “diluent” (which which adds gas as needed to compen- safe composition into the loop. The only that the system will always supply breath-
checks. If you see div- “pre-breathe”—several minutes may be air). The O2 sate for increased ambient pressure), or exception to this rule would be “hypoxic able gas no matter what is happening
ers breathing through of breathing through the unit replaces oxygen con- on a separate manual addition valve diluent,” which does not have enough with the rebreather itself. The bailout sys-
their rebreathers on sumed by the diver, (MAV). This is one of the two most impor- oxygen to support life in shallow water, tem has to have enough gas to allow for
a dive boat, do not before entering the water, to while the diluent tant rebreather controls for the OC diver but as mentioned above, that is beyond a safe ascent if the rebreather became
ask them questions, make sure that all systems are keeps the loop filled to understand (along with the bailout the scope of this article. unusable for any reason during the dive.
and if you do, do not with gas as depth valve, as you will see below). Flushing the loop with diluent can help In rebreather training, there is a low
assume they are rude
working well. and ambient pres- Some CCRs have an inline shutoff in situations where the oxygen levels threshold for getting off the loop and onto
if they do not answer. sure increases. By the valve on the ADV gas supply hose; this are too low or high, or where there is a this backup OC system—“When in doubt,
This is the “pre-breathe”—several min- appropriate addition of these two gas- must be opened if you are going to use buildup of excessive CO2 in the loop. bail out!” This is especially important since
utes of breathing through the unit before ses, the rebreather diver is able to main- the ADV button to add diluent to the Remember that this will also add buoy- some of the problems that CCR divers
entering the water, to make sure that all tain the partial pressure of oxygen (PO2) loop. There will also be a MAV for O2, in ancy to the CCR diver and therefore will can have related to gas problems in the
tech talk Figure 2: Dive-surface
valve (DSV) vs. bailout
valve (BOV)
loop are first detected by a strange feel- tank). When bailing out, they close the DSV article. Yes, there are a
ing that something is not right. Bailing out and switch to this regulator. lot of complex details to
early can be life-saving in this situation. Another option is something called a be learned that are far
Often, this lets the rebreather diver fix bailout valve (BOV). The BOV consists of beyond what is required
something that will let them return to the an OC regulator built into the loop, but for recreational certi-
loop and finish the dive, but enough gas connected to an alternate source of gas. fication, but any OC
must be carried to reach the surface on The regulator and the loop share the same diver attempting this is
OC alone if necessary. mouthpiece, and the switch connects the absolutely obligated MICHAEL ROTHSCHILD MICHAEL ROTHSCHILD
mouthpiece to either the loop or the regu- to put in the effort to
Two valve types: DSV vs. BOV lator. With a BOV, you bail out by throwing understand these basic concepts. both divers would need an alternate gas Long-hosed regulator. One approach to
Switching from breathing through the loop the switch without removing the loop from Similarly, it is NOT a good idea for a very source, in an emergency, air consump- this problem is to put a second regula-
to breathing from the bailout tank may be your mouth, which connects the mouth- new OC diver to be the sole buddy for a tion goes way up. tor on a long hose on the bailout tank.
done in two ways, corresponding to two piece to the OC regulator AND seals off rebreather diver. Anyone diving in a mixed Some recreational CCR divers only When I go through my pre-dive review
different designs for the CCR mouthpiece. the loop. This is faster than bailing out from team needs to be very comfortable with carry a 40 cubic foot aluminum tank, with an OC buddy, I show them how I
The simplest design is the dive-surface a DSV, with less of a chance of flooding their own diving skills and equipment. and some gear configurations involve would donate gas. BOV divers usually
valve (DSV). This is a switch that closes off the rebreather. (See Figure 2.) While all buddy teams should go over a single tank that provides both diluent also have an OC regulator bungeed to
the loop from the mouthpiece—it must be plans and protocols before splashing, and bailout. An aluminum 80 is a com- their bailout tank, in case of a problem
open to breathe from the loop, but closed Before the dive this discussion is especially important for mon choice for bailout to provide an that affects the BOV itself (like a mouth-
whenever the loop is out of the diver’s The first thing to determine is if a mixed a mixed OC/CCR team. Time should extra margin of safety, especially for a piece that is torn, lost or contaminated
mouth to keep from flooding the rebreath- OC/CCR team is appropriate in the first be allowed so that the OC diver is not team that includes OC divers. with caustic chemicals from the scrub-
er. Divers using a DSV have a standard OC place. Neither diver should feel pushed rushed, and can fully understand the ber). (See Figure 4.)
regulator connected to the bailout (often into doing this if they do not feel comfort- implications of diving with a rebreather Gas for the OC diver. So what do we do
bungeed under the diver’s neck or to the able with the concepts outlined in this diver. Specific details of the CCR gear if the OC diver needs gas? Again, this
being used must be reviewed. is something to discuss ahead of time.
Many OC divers are trained in the stan-
Test run. During the pre-dive discussion, dard “primary donate” technique, in
it is a good idea for the CCR diver to let which the rescuing diver gives the work-
the OC diver physically throw the BOV or ing regulator from which they are breath-
DSV switch—these can be fairly stiff and ing to the victim.
require some effort to use. The OC diver
should also try pushing the ADV or diluent This is NOT done when the rescuer is on
MAV button, opening up the inline shutoff CCR.
if present, and both inflating and deflating
the CCR wing. Overpressure dump valves A diver with a DSV could donate their
for both the wing and the counterlungs OC bailout regulator, which might be
should be identified as well. (See Figure 3.) bungeed around their neck or strapped
to the bailout tank. But that is usually on
Gas for emergencies. In a mixed team, a fairly short hose, and if that is the CCR
there needs to be enough bailout gas diver’s only OC regulator, they are then
to handle a wide range of emergencies, left without bailout, which is not ideal.
including gas sharing with the OC diver. In an emergency, with an immediate
While planning such a dive, a discus- ascent and no deco obligation, this could
sion should be had about the amount work. But it is better to have an additional
MICHAEL ROTHSCHILD
of bailout carried. While it is unlikely that deployable regulator for this purpose. MICHAEL ROTHSCHILD
Figure 3: Pre-dive discussion and practice with controls Figure 4: Open circuit bailout system
tech talk Figure 5: Heads-up
display (HUD) with
buddy light
The CCR diver should let the

OC diver know about routine
rebreather procedures that
they may do during a dive,
Unlike the deco bottles carried course, com- at around 20
by OC tech divers, which are usu- munication so that the OC diver does not feet, and may
ally carried charged but with the during the dive think that there is an emer- spend a minute
valves shut off, many CCR divers can help with or two testing
leave their bailout tank valves this—the CCR gency or a problem. their monitoring
open. The idea is that in a CO2 diver should systems. Make
emergency, your dive skills are give the “I am OK” sign before a point of looking at your buddy’s
significantly degraded, and panic doing anything unplanned. But it rebreather from top to bottom,
with hyperventilation can make is helpful to inform the OC buddy and on all sides, before continu-
it very difficult to get off the loop. about a potential diluent flush, ing with the dive. There are a lot of
This is an advantage of the BOV, O2 flush at 20 feet on descent or places where gas can leak (espe-
which gives you OC gas at the ascent, and any drills (e.g. loop cially fittings like the ADV, MAV,
throw of a switch. recovery, bailout, etc.), which main canister and first stages), and
might be done. it is important to look for any bub-
Ask about the switch. Because bles again, since some leaks may
of this open valve, divers carrying During the dive not be apparent on the surface.
an extra regulator will sometimes Bubble check. If conditions per- There should be no significant gas
put an inline shutoff switch before mit, once both divers are in the escape on descent.
the second stage, to prevent an water on the surface, a quick bub-
unnoticed free flow with gas loss. ble check is a good idea. Have Gear check. This is also the time
The OC diver needs to ask if this the CCR diver submerge the unit to look at the CCR diver’s over-
switch is present, and to make by leaning backwards, and look all gear appearance. Look for
sure that they know how to open underwater for any obvious gas excessive mobility of the rebreath-
it in an emergency. loss before starting the dive. er or bailout tank on the diver,
and look for anything hanging
Red alert. Ask about the signifi- Avoid rapid descent. Rapid loose. The CCR diver may also
cance of a flashing red light, or descents—which are fine on do an oxygen flush at this point
any other sound or visual alerts OC—can cause an O2 spike on (some do it a 20 feet on ascent),
on your CCR buddy’s handset or CCR, so they are avoided. If the to make sure that their sensors
heads-up display (HUD, attached OC diver is leading and drops can read a high PO2.
to the loop). Usually, this means rapidly in poor visibility conditions,
that the oxygen levels are too buddy separation becomes more Constant depth vs sawtooth profile.
low or too high. There have been likely. This problem is made worse One thing to remember is that
MICHAEL ROTHSCHILD
cases where a buddy noticed this for the OC diver, since there will sawtooth profiles are generally
before the diver did, and called be no bubbles to help find a miss- avoided by rebreather divers. This stant depth and swim around is tied to the workload, and it is the diver’s mask, but also may
attention to it! (See Figure 5.) ing buddy. Descents and ascents is because descents require add- objects rather than over and possible for dangerously high lev- come from around the mouth-
in general require more active ing gas to the loop, and ascents under them when possible. els of CO2 to build up if the diver piece or from an overpressure
Mid-dive procedures. The CCR management on a CCR than on require venting. This wastes gas works too hard. valve. This is normal.
diver should let the OC diver OC, so the OC diver should pay from the small reserves on a Avoid exertion. Rebreather divers
know about routine rebreather special attention during these rebreather, and also requires also try to avoid heavy exertion, Venting on ascent. During an At 90 feet, about 10 minutes
procedures that they may do times of task loading. buoyancy adjustments and extra to avoid overtaxing the scrub- ascent, the CCR diver will have into their first dive on beautiful
during a dive, so that the OC management of the PO2, which ber. While there are a number of to vent the pressure of expand- morning with spectacular con-
diver does not think that there is Check for gas leaks. CCR div- changes with depth. Rebreather factors that determine the scrub- ing gas in the loop, so you will see ditions, Tony tried to get Bill’s
an emergency or a problem. Of ers usually do a bubble check divers tend to maintain a con- ber’s efficiency, CO2 production bubbles. They usually come from attention and could not. Bill
tech talk Figure 6: Holding the
mouthpiece and
flushing the loop
with diluent
Manual activation
button on automatic
diluent valve (ADV)
was staring right at Tony. He seemed strap (to keep the loop in place) found Insert OC regulator. If the unresponsive
to be breathing normally, but he did that 51 of 54 divers who lost conscious- diver has the loop out of their mouth, the
not respond to hand signals. Tony ness at depth surfaced successfully! first thing to do would be to attempt to
reached out and grabbed Bill’s shoul- Remember that there is a difference insert an OC regulator (yours or theirs).
der, and he still did not respond… between distracted, confused, unre-
sponsive and unconscious. A distracted Prevent flooding. The other thing that
In the event of emergency diver will respond to standard communi- is vital to do immediately is to close
An unconscious diver on OC will rarely cation. A confused diver may respond to the DSV or turn the BOV to OC mode.
survive, although many OC divers learn aggressive stimuli (e.g., touching or light Although the rebreather may be partially
techniques to attempt rescue. The basic signals directed at the mask). In some or completely flooded at this point from
principles of this still apply to an uncon- types of CCR accidents, a diver may water entering through the mouthpiece,
scious CCR diver (getting the victim to be conscious but unresponsive—such as closing the loop will prevent it from flood-
the surface quickly, keeping the mouth- with a low PO2, elevated CO2, or after a ing more than it already has. A flooded
piece in the mouth, allowing gas to seizure. If they are using a full face mask, rebreather will be very negatively buoy-
escape from the airway on ascent, etc.). a gag strap or another mouthpiece ant and making rescue much more
However, survival may be actually more retaining device, they may well be com- difficult. Of course, in this situation the
likely with CCR—one study1 of French mil- pletely unconscious but still breathing chance of a successful rescue is small.
itary rebreather divers who used a gag fairly normally.
Hold loop in mouth. If the loop is in place,
keep it in the diver’s mouth. If a BOV is
present, throw the switch to the OC posi-
tion, and bubbles should appear if the
diver is breathing. If a BOV is not present,
keep the loop in the diver’s mouth, but
NEVER throw the DSV switch (remember, ALICE CHONG
the DSV seals off the loop and the diver
will not be able to breathe). sciousness. A standard recommendation and manipulate the inflator hose at the
is to hold the loop in the victim’s mouth same time. Being slightly above the victim
Diluent flush. You can flush the loop and wait until the “clonic phase” of the (behind the diver’s head instead of direct-
with diluent in this situation, using the seizure (shaking) has stopped before ly behind their back) may be helpful.
ADV or diluent MAV. If you do this, be ascent. This is for two reasons. First, it
prepared for increased buoyancy, and would be much harder to manipulate a Venting gas. In addition to venting gas
vent through the overpressure valve. The diver during a seizure. Second, during a from your own wing and the victim’s
specifics of this are very important, and seizure the airway may be closed, put- wing (as well as both drysuits, if used),
should be discussed ahead of time, but ting the diver at risk for severe pulmonary you will also need to vent gas from the
remember that you should NEVER throw barotrauma on ascent. victim’s CCR loop. If a BOV is being used,
the switch on a DSV while the loop is in remember that even though they may
the diver’s mouth, and you should NEVER Lifting. Lifting an unconscious rebreather be breathing, the loop is now sealed
flush with O2. (Figure 6.) diver is particularly challenging, because off and will not vent through the mouth-
of the increased possibility of runaway piece. The overpressure valves can help,
Seizure. One catastrophic consequence ascent due to expanding gas in multiple but be aware of this issue.
of excessive oxygen exposure is a seizure. closed spaces. Also, it may be hard for
It is not the seizure itself that is danger- the rescuer to position themselves behind Avoid runaway ascent. The way to
ALICE CHONG
ous, but the loss of the loop with uncon- a bulky rebreather so as to hold the loop avoid a runaway ascent is to be proac-
The CCR diver (left) hands a second stage to the OC diver (right).
tech talk
Avoid a runaway
ascent with proactive
venting by pulling the
OPV (overpressure relief
valve) dump cord.
PHOTO COURTESY OF JJ-CCR

tive with venting by pulling the dump filled spaces simultaneously! Completely Medical evacuation. After reaching the the standard diver buddy arrangements
cord (if present) or BRIEFLY opening and empty your wing and use the victim’s surface, rescue is similar to that taught that they may have had in the past.
then closing the DSV if it is out of the wing for buoyancy on ascent if needed elsewhere. If the boat is immediately Here are a few basic questions
diver’s mouth, with the mouthpiece held (especially if the CCR has flooded). That available, get the diver out of the water that an OC diver should go over
above your head. To make buoyancy way, if you lose your grip, the victim will right away and activate the medical with a CCR buddy before the
matters worse, as you ascend, many at least surface. evacuation system. If a surface swim or dive, in the form of a checklist.
CCRs will try to maintain the dropping pickup is needed, the rescuer should Remember, good commu-
PO2 by injecting oxygen into the loop. Positive buoyancy. Once on the surface, remove their own gear first and give res- nication is crucial for all dive
A rebreather diver ascending on OC achieve positive buoyancy by inflating cue breaths while transporting the victim. buddies, but particularly in
will set the rebreather to “low setpoint” the wing, remove the loop and keep the mixed OC/CCR teams.
and/or shut off the O2 valve to make this victim’s mouth above the surface. You Tony realized that Bill was conscious
less of a problem. If you are rescuing a MUST remember at this point to close the and breathing but unresponsive. 1) What is your bailout configuration,
CCR diver who is on an OC regulator DSV or switch the BOV to OC if it is not He remembered how Bill had gone dive-surface valve (DSV) or bailout valve
(loop out or BOV), the O2 valve should already in that position. If this is left open over this possibility in their pre-dive (BOV)? Michael Rothschild is a pediatric oto-
be closed for this reason. after removal from the victim’s mouth, discussions, and he knew just what laryngologist (kidsent.com) in New York
Do not wait to dump gas until the run- the CCR can flood and become nega- to do. While he was not sure what 2) What would you like me to do if I find City and a technical rebreather diver.
away ascent has already started, with tively buoyant, and the victim may sink exactly was wrong with the gas in you truly unresponsive but with the loop He has served as president and dive
you trying to manage five different gas even with gas in the wing. the loop, he knew that Bill needed in your mouth? If the answer is switch the chair of the New York City Sea Gypsies
fresh gas of a known and safe mix BOV, then can I try doing that now? (seagypsies.nyc), and as a medi-
right away. Holding the loop firmly in cal moderator on Scubaboard.com.
place, he switched the bailout valve 3) Are there any depth considerations Although he certainly enjoys the warm,
and bubbles started flowing from the for your bailout gas(es) or diluent that I clear water of the tropics, he especially
vent. Bill soon began to respond to should know about? loves local diving and does his best
hand signals, and they made a safe to encourage other divers to visit the
ascent together. On the surface, it 4) Do you have an open circuit regulator vibrant marine ecosystem and historic
became apparent that the CCR sole- that you could donate to me in case I shipwrecks right off the New York/New
noid had failed, and that Bill had not have a catastrophic gas loss? Jersey coast. He is an avid underwa-
noticed the dropping PPO2 levels. ter photographer and videographer,
5) Where is your ADV or diluent manual and is currently the co-director of the
Summary and checklist addition valve (MAV)? Under what cir- New York Underwater Photographic
I hope that this article will help all mem- cumstances would you want me to push Society (seagypsies.nyc/imaging). In
bers of a mixed OC/CCR team think either of those buttons? Can I try doing this capacity, he organizes and teaches
about the discussions that should happen that now? the annual NYUPS underwater pho-
before getting in the water. I also hope tography workshop at Dutch Springs,
that this basic introduction to rebreath- 6) Where is your wing inflator and dump Pennsylvania, and runs the monthly
ers, while brief and superficial, will be valve? NYUPS meetings with his colleagues.
enough to let a reasonably experienced
and committed OC diver understand why 7) Where would I look for high or low PO2 REFERENCES:
these special techniques and protocols alerts on your heads-up display (HUD) or 1
GEMPP, LOUGE, BLATTEAU, HUGON. DESCRIPTIVE
are necessary. controller? EPIDEMIOLOGY OF 153 DIVING INJURIES WITH
I do not mean to scare people away REBREATHERS AMONG FRENCH MILITARY DIVERS
from doing this, but each diver must real- 8) Is there anything that I should never FROM 1979 TO 2009. MILITARY MEDICINE, 176,
ize that they are obligated to go beyond touch or do?  4:446, 2011
ALICE CHONG
Communication between members of a mixed team of OC/CCR divers is very important.
Dray van Beeck
P O R T F O L I O
Cave, by Dray van Beeck. Digital
portfolio
art, 26 x 43cm (left). PREVIOUS PAGE:
Dray van Beeck

Atlantis Found, by Dray van Beeck.
Digital art, 57 x 80cm
In this issue, we celebrate Dutch Text edited by G. Symes ing and doing things completely wrong
digital artist and dive profes- All digital art by Dray van Beeck and complicated.
sional Dray van Beeck, who X-RAY MAG: Tell us about yourself, your The best moment in my digital career was
passed away suddenly on 19 background and how you became an when a guest who saw me working asked
April 2021. Together with his wife, artist. why I did not use layers. A world opened
Karin, he managed the Bali Diving up. I recommend to anyone who wants
DVB: I studied art at the Royal Art Acad to start using a manipulation program to
Academy Pemuteran in Indonesia. emy in Den Bosch in the Netherlands. watch tutorials. It really helps. However, I
A fine artist, avid diver and under- Afterwards, I taught art for 12 years until I learned a lot from my trials and mistakes.
water photographer, Dray created decided to change my life and become
a dive instructor. In 2001, my captain X-RAY MAG: Why marine life and under-
surreal and fantastical scenes in
found a digital underwater camera. I water themes? How did you come to
digital artworks composed using bought it off him and soon had a new these themes and how did you develop
his own underwater images. A passion: underwater photography. your surreal style of digital art?
few months ago, X-Ray Mag inter-
Through cleaning up photos, I soon DVB: As I said in the previous question, I
viewed the artist and we share became engrossed in manipulating started with underwater photography.
with you now the artist’s own images. The work Victory Round on page Because I used the built-in flash, there
words about his creative process 21 of my book Kreations shows the things was a lot of reflection from particles
and insights on digital art and the I did at that time. I bought a book to in the water. To remove these, I used
learn Adobe Photoshop. However, this Photoshop, adjusting the colors and con-
underwater realm he loved. went too slow, and I let it go, experiment- trast. Previously, my main style of art was
City, by Dray van Beeck. Digital art, 127 x 90cm
portfolio Dray van Beeck
NudiMania I, II and III, by Dray van Beeck. Digital art, 118 x 118cm each
abstract expressionism. But this Dali. But my brain is in constant

was not a style I could use with motion and just doing what
underwater themes. When I feels right seems to work. In the
was young, I loved the work of end, there is not one style but
Dali, Escher and Willink. Now many, depending on the mood
these were styles that befitted and the day.
my ideas of manipulations.
X-RAY MAG: What is your artis-
X-RAY MAG: Who or what has tic method or creative process?
inspired you and your artwork
and why? DVB: Sometimes, like with
the NudiMania series, I have
DVB: When it comes to manipu- the idea before I start. I think
lations, I was not really influ- about it for a couple of hours
enced by any one person, in bed, and then I just have
since it just sort of happened. to copy this to my computer
When it comes to a style of art, the next day. Another way to
I guess I am mostly inspired by go is just sitting with my laptop
Homage to Dali, by Dray van Beeck. Digital art, 35 x 49cm The Last Supper, by Dray van Beeck. Digital art, 23 x 35cm
portfolio
TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Parrotfish, 44 x 59cm; Boxfish, 45 x 30cm; and Mohawk Frog Fish,
38 x 52cm, from the Hybrids digital art series by Dray van Beeck
and starting with a blank page—cutting water world was a main theme making
out a photo and letting it grow into a up for more than 50 percent of my work.
work. This works 50 percent of the time. After 8,000 logged dives, I think I can say
It is more organic and very rewarding that a great part of my adult life was
when it comes out right. The most satis- in, on and under the water. I love it. It’s
fying works come from making a series. peaceful, beautiful and can fulfill you
The Hybrids series from last year was with the smallest things.
extremely satisfying (see: aqualifephotos.
com/hybrids). Through the years, I got more and more
interested in the macro world, but two of
X-RAY MAG: What is your relationship to my most memorable experiences were
the underwater world and coral reefs? with bigger animals. A dugong swam
How have your experiences underwater with me for five minutes in Egypt, won-
influenced your art? In your relationship dering what I was doing. Another time,
with reefs and the sea, where have you a tiger shark looked too big through my
had your favorite experiences? camera lens. It was a fisheye lens I was
using for the first time. The four-meter
DVB: My digital art started with using my shark was just 5cm from the lens. My wife
underwater photos. Afterwards, I alter- almost drowned from laughing so hard.
nated with other themes, but the under- Catfish, 37 x 25cm, from the Hybrids
Spanish Dancer, 43 x 65cm, from the Hybrids digital art series by Dray van Beeck digital art series by Dray van Beeck
Full Moon at the Blue
portfolio
Hole III, by Dray van
Dray van Beeck

Beeck. Digital art,
106 x106cm
X-RAY MAG: What are your DVB: As a dive instructor, a lot

thoughts on ocean conservation of time nowadays goes into
and coral reef management conservation of the sea. We do
and how does your artwork regular reef and beach clean-
relate to these issues? ups here in Bali. When I start an
underwater photography work-
shop, I let the students first practice good DVB: The sky is (not) the limit…
buoyancy in the pool. I have seen too many
photographers destroying parts of a reef X-RAY MAG: What are the challenges or ben-
to get the right photo. This should be not efits of being an artist in the world today?
be encouraged. Manipulating a photo in Any thoughts or advice for aspiring artists
the water is wrong. Moving shrimps around in ocean arts?
so they are in a nice position should not
be tolerated. This is the main reason I gave DVB: When I was young, it was hard to find
up on underwater photography contests. a place in the art world. I was a painter. At
Nowadays, I only enter in “manipulated” that time, it was more about public relations
categories. than about one’s artwork. Nowadays, it is
even harder. Digital photography is the norm,
X-RAY MAG: What is the message or experi- and image-editing programs are getting
ence you want viewers of your artwork to easier and easier to use. Luckily, there is also
have or understand? creativity involved. But if you have a good
idea, go for it! Experiment. Do not be afraid
Full Moon at the Blue Hole IV, by Dray van Beeck. Digital art, 86 x 63cm Iceberg, by Dray van Beeck. Digital art, 88 x 35cm
portfolio
Fish Portraits, by Dray van Beeck. Digital art, 43 x 80cm

(above); Extinction VII, by Dray van Beeck. Digital art,
50 x 55cm (right)
of doing something wrong. But use “Save As”

on your works many times, since you will prob-
ably go too far with your editing and want to go
back to an earlier version. Look at the total work
[as a whole], in the beginning. Then, when it
looks good, zoom in and work on the details.
X-RAY MAG: Lastly, is there anything else you

would like to tell our readers about yourself and
your artwork?
DVB: I love making my art, and I love it when

my artwork evokes a reaction in people. I am so
happy I found a way to combine my two passions:
diving and art. If you are interested in underwater
photography, and the rest of my artwork, please
come and visit: aqualifephotos.com. 
For more information or to order prints, please visit

the artist’s webshop at: aqualifephotos.com/shop,
or follow at: facebook.com/dray.vanbeeck or
instagram.com/aqualife_photos.
Tropical Island, by Dray van Beeck. Digital art, 64 x 46cm

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Making the Right Choice :: OC & CCR Mixed Teams :: JJ-CCR :: Dray van Beeck Portfolio

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from the deep

Text and photos by

Plinio III Wreck

rap (in metres). Drawing by

MUSEO BARCA LARIANA / PUBLIC DOMAIN

Archival drawings, original plans and perspectives, of the Plinio III

fins in slow motion so as not to stir

PUT YOUR MILITARY SERVICE TO SERVICE!

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The city is also famous for its many iconic

LEFT TO RIGHT: Quail's egg-topped beef tartare and tartlets

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LARS STENHOLT KIRKEGAARD

had been decontaminated and like. On the other hand, the

In the Neolithic period, flint scrapers were

PETER SYMES SCOTT BENNETT

Red whelk were

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blue mussels abounded, as a myriad a Yarrell’s blenny peering out

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MARINE – ARKÆOLOGISK – GRUPPE

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THE VIKING SHIP MUSEUM IN ROSKILDE

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We asked our contributors what