~~C~ONSUMER

~~~~1t. INFORMATION
----------------
CHARACTERISTIC
To make a satisfactory textile choice for a
particular use, one must understand not
only the separate and combined proper-
ties of the various textile fibers but also
comparative merits of the fibers.
The commercial value of any fiber
depends largely on the extent to which it
possesses certain characteristics, such as
tensile strength, elasticity, fineness, and
cohesiveness-all of which facilitate the
process of spinning fibers to yarn to pro-
duce satisfactory fabrics for the con-
sumer. The effectiveness of finishes and
the care of fabrics depend upon such
properties as the effect of heat, reaction to
alkalies and acids, and affinity for dyes.
The consumer is also concerned with ser-
viceability, performance, and ease of
care. Therefore, consideration must be
given to such factors as absorbency,
cleanliness and washability, effect of
bleaches, shrinkage, resilience, drapabi-
lity, and resistance to mildew and perspi-
ration.
The choice, then, is a matter of se-
lecting the fabric of the fiber or combina-
468
fi
th
re
re
ot
COMPARATIV
summary of fiber qualities
tion of fibers that offers the mostdesirabl
properties and will best satisfy the parhcu
lar purpose for which the fabric or gaT
ment is intended. But this kind
determination has become increasin
difficult with the greater number offibe
groups and the variations within eac
group. Consideration is given heretoth
general properties of each princip
group, classified by the FTC in accord
ance with the Textile Fiber Productslden
tification Act, such as acrylics, polyesler
spandex, and so on. The wide variation
of properties existing within each grou
do indeed make specific and precisestat
ments difficult, if not impossible. R~
sonable comparisons among the group
are given here.
STRENGTH
Fibers differ in their resistance to teann
apart when subjected to tension. Ih
serviceability and durability of a fabricar
also affected by the length of the fiber
Tensile strength is a prime necessm I
 CHAPTER 29
fibers if the resultant fabric is to withstand
the strain of wear. The ability of a fiber to
resist wearing away by friction or rubbing,
referred to as abrasion resistance, is an-
other aspect of durability. Yet, it does
not follow that tensile strength and abra-
sion resistance go together. The relative
strengths of the fibers are as follows.
Glass Fiber. Glass is by far the strongest
of all textile fibers, with the exception of
Kevlar aramid. Its tensile strength ex-
ceeds that of stainless steel of an equiva-
lent diameter, yet its abrasion resistance is
not high.
Nylon, Aramid, Polyesters, Polypropy-
lenes, and High Wet-l\lodulus Rayons.
These textiles are all relatively strong.
There is much overlapping of tensile
strengths among the groups of fibers as
well as among the fibers within these
groups, particularly since they may be
produced in both regular and high-tenac-
ity varieties. In general, the staple forms
are weaker than the filament forms.
A unique characteristic of aramid is
that although the Kevlar types are
stronger than glass fiber, the Nomex types
have a tensile strength that approximates
that of some types of nylon and polyes-
ter. Aramid, polypropylenes, and polyes-
ters do not lose significant strength when
wet, and nylon weakens only about 10 per-
cent when wet. The high wet-modulus
rayons also have some temporary loss of
strength when wet.
Abrasion resistance varies and does
not depend upon tensile strength. For
example, regular nylon staple is one of the
most abrasion-resistant fibers but does not
possess the greatest tensile strength. The
abrasion resistance of aramid and polyes-
ter is very good. Polypropylene has good
abrasion resistance, while the high wet-
COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS 469
modulus rayons do not, being less resist-
ant to abrasion than cotton.
Silk. This fiber has long been known as "
the strongest of the natural fibers. Con-
sidering the extremely small diameter of
the fiber varying from 0.001 to 0.005 inch
[25-125 micrometers (fLm)], silk is one of
the strongest of textile fibers. The break-
ing strength of raw silk is equivalent to
nearly one-third the breaking strength of
the best iron wire of the same size. How-
ever, silk does not have good abrasion re-
sistance.
Linen. Flax fiber, which is second in
strength to silk, is especially durable.
Linen gains strength when wet. When
dry, linen is not very flexible. Its abrasion
resistance is therefore affected.
Cotton. This natural fiber has good
strength. When wet, its strength may in-
crease temporarily by as much as 30 per-
cent. Cotton may be permanently
strengthened by mercerization and am-
moniating. It has good abrasion resist-
ance.
Acrylics. In general, the acrylics are
weaker than cotton, though there is a
fairly wide range of strengths among
them. For instance, some types of Cres-
lan and Zefran acrylics are stronger than
the modacrylics, while the other acrylics
are weaker. Acrylic fibers generally lose
about 20 percent of their strength while
wet and should therefore be treated with
reasonable care. These fibers have good
abrasion resistance.
Modacrylics. The mod acrylics compete
favorably with the acrylic fibers. The
modacrylic fibers have the advantage of
not losing any appreciable strength when
wet. They also have good abrasion resist-
ance.
470 UNIT 6 CONSUMER INFORMATION
Viscose Rayon. Regular viscose rayon is,
on the average, weaker than the acrylics
or modacrylics. However, the specialized
medium and high-tenacity viscose rayons
are stronger. The strength of rayon fiber
is conditioned by its moisture content.
When wet, viscose rayon loses from 40 to
70 percent of its natural strength; but this
strength is completely regained when the
fiber is dry. Viscose rayon is, therefore,
not considered a weak fiber because it is
judged by its natural strength when dry,
which is one-half to one-third that of silk.
Viscose rayon does not have good abra-
sion resistance.
Acetate. Acetate is a relatively weak
fiber. It has relatively low tensile strength
as well as low abrasion resistance. Fur-
thermore, acetate may temporarily lose
up to 45 percent of its strength when wet.
Wool. Wool has the lowest tensile
strength of the natural fibers; however, be-
cause its springiness and resilience ac-
tually increase its wearing strength, it is
rated above some of the other fibers in du-
rability. While wet, wool may temporar-
ily lose as much as 25 percent of its
strength.
Triacetate (Arnel). The tensile strength
of triacetate closely approximates that of
wool. When wet, triacetate temporararily
loses up to one-third of its strength. Tri-
acetate does not have good abrasion resist-
ance.
Spandex. When compared to other
fibers, spandex fibers have low tensile
strength. However, the point of stress is
reached only after the fiber exceeds its
maximum point of elasticity. In normal
use, this point is not readily reached;
therefore, tensile strength is not usually a
matter of concern. The abrasion resist-
ance of spandex fibers is quite good.
ELASTICITY
Elasticity means that when the fiber is
elongated or stretched, on release of ten-
sion, it will tend to return to its original
length. Consequently, the less stress that
is necessary to stretch the fiber and the
more nearly it returns to its original
length, the more elastic it is. The greater
the elastic quality, the more the fiber will
resist tearing. This elasticity contributes
not only to the strength of a fiber but to
the strength of a fabric as well. Elasticity
permits materials to drape well on the
body. Because elastic fibers do not break
as easily as inelastic ones, this quality also
facilitates the spinning process.
Spandex. Spandex fibers are quite elas-
tic, being almost as elastic as rubber.
They can be stretched from 400 to 700
percent, which is almost twice as much as
that of the specially processed stretch
nylons. Spandex returns to its original
condition readily upon release of ten-
sion. Spandex also has the restraining or
holding power so desirable for support
and foundation purposes.
Nylon. Nylon has a high degree of elas-
ticity. It has the ability to return readily
to its original shape after a great deal of
stretching. This is one of the characteris-
tics that has made nylon an excellent fiber
for women's hosiery.
Polypropylenes. Polypropylenes have
fairly good elasticity. However, polypro-
pylenes generally tend to lose the ability to
relax to their original length if the tension
is retained too long.
Wool. Wool is one of the most elastic
fibers, certainly the most elastic of natural
fibers. It can be stretched to about 30
percent of its original length without
breaking.
 CHAPTER 29
Silk. Silk is the second most elastic of the
natural fibers. With too much strain,
however, it wi II never recover its original
size.
'I'riacetate (Arnel). Triacetate is much
less elastic than silk, yet it does have good
recovcrv to its original dimension after
tension is released.
Acetate. Acetate has about the same
vtrctchabilitv as triacetate but has slightly
less recovery.
Acrylics and Modacrvlics. These fibers
have relatively little elasticity. However,
there arc variations among them in the
amount of stretchability and recovery that
can be expected.
Polvesters. These fibers have even less
elasticity than acrylics and modacrylics.
Viscose and High Wet-l\Iodulus Ray-
ons. Rayons have relatively little elas-
tici t~ .
Cotton. Cotton has very little natural
elasticitv, The elasticity in certain cotton
fabrics 'is added by special processing,
such as slack mercerization.
Linen. Linen is the least elastic of the
natural fibers.
Glass Fiber. Glass fiber is inelastic, but
this should not be confused with flexibil-
ity. Glass fiber is quite pliable due to the
fineness of the fiber.
RESILIENCE
Resilience means that the fiber can be
compressed or crushed and, on release of
pressure, will tend to return to its original
shape. When a fiber is resilient, it can be
COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS 477
spun or twisted into springy yarns and the
resultant fabric is also resilient. This
quality causes the fabric to be wrinkle-re-
sistant, with the resistance varying accord-
ing to the degree of elasticity inherent in
the fiber. Resilience also contributes to
the abrasion resistance of a fabric. Some
fibers have both elasticity and wrinkle re-
sistance, but it is possible for a fiber to
have none or little of either. It is also pos-
sible for a fiber not to have one quality,
such as stretchability, but to have the
other quality of wrinkle resistance.
Fibers that are not inherently resil-
ient can be given a degree of resilience by
reducing them to short staple. Short-sta-
ple yarns contribute softness to a fabric
and help to make it somewhat wrinkle-re-
sistant, but some strength is sacrificed. A
chemical finish can be used to obtain
wrinkle resistance, but this method may
also affect the strength of the fiber.
While it is difficult to establish an ab-
solute range of fibers, the following gener-
alities are adequate for average consumer
needs.
Spandex. Spandex has excellent resil-
ience, flexibility, and pliability. It is also
very springy, reacting much like rubber.
Other Manmade Polymer Fibers. Ny-
lon, aramids, polyesters, acrylics, moda-
crylics, and polypropylenes have very
good to excellent resilience that varies
with the type of fiber in each group. The
resilience can be enhanced by texturing or
by crimping the fibers.
Triacetate (Arnel). Triacetate has a re-
silience rivaling that of nylon. Fabrics of
triacetate hold their shape very well and re-
sist wrinkling that normally occurs from
much wear or packing. The wrinkles that
might occur generally tend to hang out.
472 UNIT 6 CONSUMER INFORMATION
Acetate. Acetate has good resilience, but
not equal to that of triacetate.
Glass Fiber. Glass fibers are surprisingly
resilient, which is due to their extreme
fineness and consequent flexibility. Ex-
cessive flexing or heavy creasing pressure
will, however, cause the fibers to crack
and break.
Wool and Silk. These are the most resil-
ient natural fibers. The resilience of wool
varies with its quality, and the better
grades are very resilient. Pure silk is also
very resilient, and the wrinkles that de-
velop in silk fabrics tend to hang out.
Weighted silks are much less resilient.
Rayons. These are the least resilient of
the manmade fibers. The high wet-mo-
dulus rayons are a little more resilient
than cuprammonium rayon. The fine-
ness to which cuprammonium rayon can
be spun makes it possible to achieve more
resilience than viscose rayon.
Cotton. Cotton lacks appreciable resil-
ience. While special finishes reduce this
disadvantage, the durability of the fabric is
also reduced.
Linen. Linen is relatively brittle, and
sharp creasing will crack the fibers. It is
the least resilient of the major fibers and
requires special finishes to improve its re-
silience.
DRAPABILlTY
The drapability of a fabric, or its ability to
hang and fall into graceful shape and
folds, is dependent upon the finish, con-
struction, the kind of yarn used, and the
fibers in the yarn. The other factors
being equal, the pliability and springiness
of the various fibers will contribute differ-
ent amounts of drapability.
Wool and Silk. These natural protein
fibers have excellent draping qualities.
Cotton and Linen. These natural cellu-
lose fibers do not have good draping qual-
ity; linen, however, has the better drape of
the two, which is partially due to its longer
fibers and greater body.
Rayons. These fibers have only fair drap-
ability, and the long, fine filament forms
produce the most drapable fabrics.
Acetate and Triacetate. These fibers
generally have body and draping qualities
that are better than the rayons.
Nylon. These fibers can produce fabrics
of softness, body, and suppleness, which
provide superior drape. The trilobal type
of nylon, such as Antron, has excellent
draping qualities.
Aramid. omex aramid fiber has ade-
quate drapability for its purposes.
Polyesters. The polyesters have fair drap-
ability. Some types, such as trilobal Da-
cron, are better in this respect than
others.
Acrylics and Modacrylics. These fibers
provide fair drapability, but this quality
varies with the type.
Polypropylenes. These fibers have mod-
erate drapability.
Spandex. Spandex fibers have excellent
pliability and contribute to the drape of
the fabric in which they are combined.
Glass Fiber. Glass fibers can be pro-
duced in such fine diameters that they
may be extremely flexible. Conse-
quently, glass fiber can have very good
 CHAPTER 29
draping quality. However, on account of
certain limitations (which may be ulti-
mately overcome), glass fiber is not used
for apparel, though it is quite well suited
for curtains and draperies.
HEAT CONDUCTIVITY
The ability of a fiber to conduct heat has
great significance in textiles. The degree
of heat conductivity helps determine
whether fabrics are suitable for winter or
for summer use.
In addition to the heat conductivity
inherent in the fiber, the kind of yarn, fab-
ric formation, and finish will also affect
this quality. When a fabric is loosely con-
structed, for example, it has air spaces,
which have an insulative property. The
captive air pockets contained in a napped
surface add warmth to a fabric. These
are the more important considerations
concerning the warmth or coolness of a
fabric along with the following generalities
about the heat conductivity of the fibers
themselves.
Linen. The flax fiber is the best conduc-
tor of heat. Linen fabric is therefore
most suitable for summer apparel, as it
allows the heat of the body to escape easily
and quickly.
Cotton. Cotton fiber is a good conductor
of heat. Cotton fabrics are also suitable
for summer clothing. The surfaces of the
cloth has much to do with the degree of
heat conductivity.
Viscose and High Wet-Modulus Ray-
ons. Being cellulose fibers, the rayons are
also good conductors of heat. They make
cool, comfortable fabrics. When the
fibers are of fine diameter and fine yarns
are used, the fabrics can be lightweight
and sheer, which increases the heat con-
ductivity away from the body.
COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS 473
Triacetate (Arnel). The triacetate cellu-
lose Arnel is not as good a conductor of
heat as the pure cellulose fibers. Also,
being less absorbent, it feels warmer and is
less comfortable in warm weather.
Acetate. Acetate is a poor conductor of -
heat. Because it does not absorb much
moisture, it has a tendency to feel warm
and clammy on warm, humid days.
Nylon. Nylon fabrics seem to have the
peculiar property of being cold in winter
and warm in summer. Actually, this is
dependent on whether filament or staple
is used and on the construction of the fab-
ric. The spun staple nylon has thousands
of air pockets that act as an excellent insu-
lator; therefore, the staple nylon fabrics
will be warm. The warmth or coolness of
the filament fabrics is dependent on the
porosity of the weave and on the amount
of moisture in the air and on the body, for
nylon has about the same absorbency as
acetate.
Aramids. Aramid fibers are not good
conductors of heat. Fabrics of the fiber
will, however, vary in warmth or coolness
depending upon whether the fiber used is
filament or staple and how compactly the
fabric is constructed. Since the fiber has
low absorbency, its feeling of warmth is
increased by atmospheric humidity.
Polyesters. The polyester fibers are pro-
moted for summer-weight fabrics, partic-
ularly in blends with more absorbent
fibers. While they are fair heat conduc-
tors, the polyesters can be crimped to add
bulk and insulation to fabrics. They also
have been found to provide excellent
warmth as fiberfill for sleeping bags and
quilts.
Silk. Silk is a natural protein fiber and
therefore a nonconductor of heat. It may
474 UNIT 6 CONSUMER INFORMATION
be used for winter clothing. Silk is gen-
erally thought of as a cool, summer fabric;
however, the coolness of a silk garment
for summer wear is directly dependent on
its lightness in weight and the sheerness of
the fabric: the lighter and sheerer the fab-
rics, the cooler; the heavier the fabric,
the warmer.
Wool. Wool is very warm for two rea-
sons: it has a scaly surface and crimp that
provide air pockets for insulation, and it is
composed of a protein, which is a non-
conductor of heat.
Acrylics and Modacrylics. These fibers
have a low rate of heat conductivity.
They are also relatively lightweight and,
when crimped, provide considerable insu-
lation. This lightweight bulk produces
very warm fabrics. The peanut or dog-
bone shape of some acrylic and modacry-
lie fibers contribute additional bulk and
insulation for their relatively light
weight. Fabrics of these fibers are
warmer than wool fabrics of equal
weight.
Polypropylenes. The polypropylenes are
low conductors of heat and have the light-
est weight of all textile fibers. When they
are crimped they provide excellent light-
weight bulk for warm fabrics.
Glass Fiber. This fiber is unique in re-
gard to heat conductivity. While glass fil-
aments.conduct heat, the staple acts as an
excellent insulator because of the thou-
sands of air pockets it traps. For this rea-
son, glass staple batting is used for insulat-
ing refrigerators, stoves, and houses.
Spandex. Spandex is not a good conduc-
tor of heat. However, because it is
usually blended in small amounts with
other fibers, this does not become a signif-
icant factor.
ABSORBENCY
The quickness with which a fabric absorbs
moisture and gives it up again in evapora-
tion has an important bearing on health
and comfort. Textile fibers vary in their
natural absorptive capacity, but absor-
bency may be increased by fabric con-
struction or by a finishing process. A
loosely constructed fabric or one with a
napped surface, for example, is more ab-
sorptive than a smooth-surfaced fabric.
Wool. Wool fibers absorb moisture
quickly and hold a large amount, allowing
it to evaporate slowly. In fact, wool can
absorb up to 20 percent of its weight in
water without feeling damp, and 50 per-
cent of its weight in water without drip-
ping. When wet, wool does not stick to
the body and so is ideal for outcrwear on
cold, damp days.
Silk. Silk fiber absorbs moisture rcadilv
and, like wool, can hold much water with-
out feeling wet.
Rayons. The absorbency and drying
qualities of both viscose and high wet-mo-
dulus rayons are closely akin to those of
silk. Because rayons absorb moisture
readily, they tend to feel wet and hear)
when the air is humid.
Linen. Linen absorbs moisture more
quickly and dries more quickly than cot-
ton. For this reason, coupled with its
strength and hygienic characteristics, it is
excellent for towels and handkerchiefs.
Cotton. Cotton absorbs water rather well
but does not dry very quickly.
Acetate. Acetate does not absorb much
moisture: only 14 percent of its weight at a
95 percent relative humidity. On warm,
humid days, the moisture therefore clings
 CHAPTER 29
to the surface of acetate, and it feels un-
comfortable. Although acetate clings to
the body and feels warm and clammy, it
dries quickly.
Triacetate (Arnel). The absorbency of
triacetate is slightly lower than that of ace-
tate under normal temperatures and hu-
midity. However, triacetate absorbs
more moisture under higher humid con-
ditions, which accounts for its somewhat
greater comfort than acetate. Fabrics of
triacetate also dry quickly.
Nylon. ylon absorbs about half as
much moisture as acetate. It also feels
very clammy and uncomfortable on
warm, humid days. Filament nylon gar-
ments dry very rapidly, often in one hour.
Staple nylon yarn dries more slowly;
water droplets cling to the surfaces of the
short pieces of nylon fiber and have diffi-
culty evaporating from within the central
portion of the yarn. Garments made of
spun nylon yarn may take twenty-four
hours to dry.
Aramid. Nomex aramid fiber is slightly
more absorbent than nylon.
Acrylics. While the acrylics are less ab-
sorbent than nylon, the range of their ab-
sorbency is quite close. Water does tend
to cling to the surface of the acrylic fibers
and this adsorbency results in water pene-
trating between the fibers of the yarn,
causing such fabrics to 'dry slowly.
Modacrylics. There is a difference in ab-
sorbency between the mod acrylic fibers.
Verel is more absorbent than the acrylics;
SEF is a little less absorbent than Verel.
Polyesters. These fibers have very little
absorbency. Therefore they do not stain
easily and are relatively water-repellent.
COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS 475
Spandex. Spandex fibers are even less
absorbent than the polyesters.
Polypropylenes. These fibers are vir-
tually nonabsorbent. Moisture tends to
lie on the surface. They resist staining
and may be considered to be water-repel/
lent.
Glass Fiber. Glass fiber is not absorbent.
CLEANLINESS AND WASHABILITY
The consumer is interested in knowing
what textiles are hygienic, how long a gar-
ment may be expected to remain clean,
and whether it will require special care
when laundering or dry cleaning is neces-
sary. The fibers with smooth surfaces
produce fabrics that are easy to launder;
thus garments made of linen, silk, and
rayon wash easily. A napped surface on
anyone of these materials makes it neces-
sary to give the garment more care in
washing. The fact that a fiber does not
absorb much water does not imply that
the fiber is unhygienic. Actually, such
fibers usually do not absorb dirt particles
and have relatively smooth surfaces. The
water then washes the dirt off the surface,
and the fiber dries quickly.
Glass Fiber. A fabric made of glass fila-
ment yarn may be cleaned either by rins-
ing in water or by wiping with a damp
cloth. Neither dirt nor water affects glass
fiber because both remain on the surface.
Polypropylenes. Since the polypropy-
lene fibers are virtually nonabsorbent,
they do not stain or attract dirt readily and
surface soil may be easily wiped off. Fab-
rics may be washed in any household de-
tergent. Also, they may be dry-cleaned,
although the commonly used perchlor-
ethylene could affect dimensional stabil-
L
476 UNIT 6 CONSUMER INFORMATION
ity. Because polypropylenes are generally
heat sensitive, very hot water and other
sources of heat must be avoided.
Spandex. Dirt and stains also tend not to
soil spandex fibers easily. They are not
harmed by the usual soaps, detergents, or
dry-cleaning fluids. However, they are
very heat sensitive and must be handled
accordingly with care.
Polyesters. The polyesters are smooth-
surfaced fibers that do not get dirty eas-
ily. They may be dry-cleaned or laun-
dered with a soap or a detergent. Most
stains wash out readily, but polyesters
have affinity for oil and such stains are dif-
ficult to remove even with dry cleaning.
Heat-set garments made of polyesters do
not lose their shape or permanent creases
after washing. These garments also dry
very quickly and do not shrink. Some
types of polyesters have a tendency to pill.
Nylon. Nylon filament is also a smooth-
surfaced fiber that does not get dirty read-
ily. It may be laundered easily with a
soap or a detergent. Fabrics made of
nylon filament may be heat-set so that
they will retain their shape and creases or
pleats after washing. Staple nylon laun-
ders easily also but takes longer to dry.
Nylon staple pills very easily.
Aramid. Garments of Nomex aramid
fiber can be laundered by conventional
methods including tumble drying and drip
drying. When they are heavily soiled,
particularly with grease or oil, dry clean-
ing is desirable. Clothing can be ironed
easily.
Acrylics and Modacrylics. All of the
acrylic and modacrylic fibers have approx-
imately equal degrees of cleanliness.
Since they are usually made into fuzzy,
soft yarns, they can get dirty easily; how-
ever, fabrics of these fibers wash readily
and retain their shape, creases, and
pleats. They all have good wash and wear
characteristics and may also be readily dry-
cleaned. Some types of these fibers pill
badly, others pill moderately, and some
special types have relatively good pill re-
sistance.
Silk. Silk makes a hygienic material be-
cause of its smooth surface and absence of
short fibers, which cause it to shed dust
and to give up dirt readily. If handled
properly, silk can be washed easily, unless
it is given special finishes that require dry
cleaning.
Acetate and Triacetate. These fibers are
not as smooth as silk, but they can be eas-
ily dry-cleaned. They may also be laun-
dered with a mild soap or detergent in
warm water.
Linen. Because of the smooth surface of
its fiber, linen gives up stains readily and
affords little adhering surface for particles
of dirt. Bacteria do not thrive on linen.
Linen launders well. Its softness is en-
hanced by repeated washings.
Cotton. The short cotton fiber produces
a fabric with a relatively rougher surface
than that of linen, silk, or rayon, and
therefore soils easily. Nevertheless, cot-
ton fabric is considered a hygienic ma-
terial because it can be cleaned easily.
Since cotton is stronger when wet, it with-
stands rough handling and hot water.
High Wet-Modulus Rayons. These
rayons do not soil as easily as cotton.
They do lose some strength when wet and
require more careful handling than cot-
ton. However, they retain considerably
more strength than viscose rayon when
 CHAPTER 29 COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS 477

wet. If desired, thev can also be dry- Viscose Rayon. This manmade cellu-
cleaned. lose fiber may be bleached with mild solu-
tions of sodium hypochlorite. For safer
Viscose Rayon. Viscose rayon must be results, sodium perborate or hydrogen
dry-cleaned for best results. Laundering peroxide may be used.
must be done with care; spun and viscose
rayon may have a shrinkage problem. High Wet-Modulus Rayons. Unlike vis-
cose rayon, the high wet-modulus rayons
Wool. The scaly surface of the epidermis require individual treatments. Avril
of wool fiber attracts dust, bacteria, and rayons may be safely bleached with any
dirt particles. Consequently, wool fabric household bleach. Zantrel rayon may be
requires frequent dry cleaning, or washing safely bleached with a hypochlorite, but
if the nature of the fabric permits it. Felt- peroxide will deteriorate it.
ing occurs when wool is washed impro-
perly unless it has been given a special fin- Acetate and Triacetate. These fibers
ish. A wool garment should not be must be bleached with care in a mild solu-
rubbed or handled like a cotton one. tion of any household bleach.

Nylon, Polyesters, and Glass Fiber.

REACTION TO BLEACHES
Sometimes fabrics are bleached to get
them whiter or to remove stains. When a
bleach is used, it should be put into the
water and thoroughly mixed before the
garment is added. This will prevent the
possiblity of damaging the fabric with a
bleach that is too concentrated.
Most white man made fibers do not
usually turn gray or yellow. Sometimes,
however, the finish on the fabric may
cause the discoloration. It is therefore a
good idea to wash garments first without a
bleach to determine if one is necessary.
Cotton and Linen. The natural cellu-
lose fibers of cotton and linen may be
safely bleached by using normal care with
the ordinary household bleaches contain-
ing sodium hypochlorite. For more care-
ful treatments, sodium perborate and hy-
drogen peroxide bleaches may be used.
These fibers must also be bleached with
care, although most bleaching agents can
be used. These include the household
bleaches containing sodium hypochlorite,
sodium perborate, or hydrogen peroxide.
Aramid. Such bleaches as hydrogen per-
oxide, sodium chlorite, and sodium hy-
pochlorite may be safely and effectively
used on fabrics of aramid fiber.
Acrylics. With the exception of Creslan,
the acrylics can also be safely bleached
with any of the household bleaches.
Creslan acrylic requires sodium chlorite.
Modacrylics. The modacrylics require
individual, different treatments. SEF
may be bleached with any household
bleach. On the other hand, bleaches
cause the excellent whiteness of Verel to
discolor.

Wool and Silk. The natural protein Polypropylenes. These fibers may be
fibers wool and silk must be bleached with bleached with the usual household
care. Hydrogen peroxide is the safest bleaches, but their heat sensitivity re-
bleach for them. quires that the water temperature never
478 UNIT 6 CONSUMER INFORMATION

be above 150°F (65°C) and preferably EFFECT OF HEAT

lower.
Heat affects different fibers in different
ways and at different temperature ','
Spandex. In general, spandex fibers have
Some fibers scorch and flame; others melt
good resistance to deterioration by the
and flame or shrink. Some fibers are self-
household calcium chlorite bleaches.
extinguishing; others are completely non-
Perborate bleach may be safely used. In
combustible. Some appropriate fire-re-
textile mills, sodiuri1 chlorit~ bleaches
tardant and protective finishes are avail-
must be avoided.
able.

Cotton. Cotton is highly resistant to deg-

SHRINKAGE radation by heat. It scorches at about
300°F (l50°C) but does not burn until the
Shrinkage caused by water varies from
temperature is 475°F (246°C).
considerable to none, depending upon
the fiber. Fibers which are susceptible to
Linen. The reaction of linen to heat is
this shrinkage may be given special fin-
similar to that of cotton. Because of the
ishes which significantly reduce the resid-
ual shrinkage that may occur from laun- greater natural stiffness of linen, it should
dering or other exposure to water. be very damp when ironed and the iron
should be hotter than ordinarily used for
Wool. Wool shrinks more than any other cotton.
fiber, though some finishes reduce its
shrinkage potential and a few make it Wool. Although wool will start to decom-
shrinkproof. pose at 266°F (BO°C), it does not flame.
It will support combustion at 572°F
Cotton, Linen, and the Rayons. the cel- (300°C). Wool should be pressed with a
lulose fibers cotton, linen, and all the steam iron, or a very damp pressing cloth
rayons shrink considerably when wet. should be used with an ordinary iron.
Shrink-resistant finishes are available to
control this. Silk. Silk is less resistant to heat than
wool. It will be destroyed at about 330°F
Silk and Acetate. Silk and acetate tend (l65°C).
to shrink somewhat, though not as much
as the fibers mentioned above. Rayons. The rayons decompose at tem-
peratures ranging from about 300 to 40QOF
Other Manmade Fibers. Triacetate (150- 204°C), and then flame and burn in
nylon, aramid, polyesters, the acrylics and a manner similar to cotton. The lower
modacrylics, spandex, polypropylene, and scorching temperatures of the rayons re-
glass fiber do not normally shrink when quire the use of a cooler iron than for cot-
wet if the yarns and fabrics have been ton.
properly constructed and processed.
Polypropylene, however, will shrink when Acetate. Acetate will stick to the iron at
it is exposed to moderately hot tempera- about 350°F (l77°C). At 500°F (260°C) it
tures, and aramid will shrink slightly when will melt; then it will char, sputter, and
immersed in boiling water. flame. A cooler iron should be used for
 CHAPTER 29
acetate than for rayon. Cigarette sparks
and glowing embers falling on acetate fab-
rics will melt holes in the fabric on con-
tact.
Triacetate (Arnel). Triacetate is a little
more resistant to heat, gets tacky at 570°F
(300°C), and melts above that tempera-
ture. The fabrics will also be damaged by
glowing embers.
Nylon. ylon is more sensitive to heat
than triacetate. One of the major differ-
ences between nylon 6,6 and nylon 6 is
their comparative heat sensitivity. Both
yellow when exposed to a temperature of
300°F (l50°C), but nylon 6 melts at about
420°F (215°C); nylon 6,6 sticks at 445°F
(230°C) and melts at about 480°F
(250°C). For purposes of safety, it is ad-
visable to iron nylon in the same manner
as acetate. Nylon garments may be com-
mercially heat-set to retain their shape
after washing or dry cleaning without fur-
ther pressing or ironing. As with acetate
fabrics, cigarette sparks and glowing
embers will melt holes on contact.
Aramid. Aramid is highly resistant to
heat. For example, Nomex aramid fiber
will resist flames up to 700°F (370°C), at
which point it will shrink away, pucker,
and char. It is self-extinguishing. It can
be ironed in the ordinary manner without
fear of damage.
Polyesters. Each of the polyester fibers
has a different sticking and melting tem-
perature. Furthermore, variations exist
among the types of each polyester. In
general, they react at temperatures some-
what similar to nylon 6,6 with melting
temperatures ranging from 480 to 554°F
(249- 290°C). Being thermoplastic, these
fibers can be heat-set.
COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS 479
Acrylics. The acrylic fibers also vary in
the way they are affected by heat. Acri-
lan, for example, shrinks at 455°F
(235°C). Sticking temperatures for the
acrylics range from 400 to 490°F (204- -'
254°C), and they melt at higher tempera-
tures. These fibers can also be heat-set.
Modacrylics. The modacrylic fibers will
not support combustion and are self-ex-
tinguishing when the flame source is re-
moved. Verel will stiffen and discolor at
300°F (l50°C). SEF will shrink above
390°F (199°C). Both modacrylics can be
heat-set and fabrics of them need no or
little ironing at a low setting. The flame-
resistant characteristic makes modacrylics
suitable for apparel and home furnishings
that require this property.
Spandex. There is wide variation in the
effect of heat on spandex fibers. Lycra
yellows and degrades above 300°F (l50°C)
and melts at 446°F (230°C). Clospan and
Cleerspan become sticky at 417 to 442°F
(214-228°C). All spandex fibers can be
heat-set.
Polypropylenes. The polypropylenes are
among the most heat sensitive of all fibers,
which is one of their major disadvan-
tages. Added heat stabilizers have shown
some limited success. In general, poly-
propylene fibers will shrink progressively
at temperatures above 212°F (l00°C), and
they will melt above 320°F (160°C). Poly-
propylene fibers can be heat-set.
Glass Fiber. Temperatures must be ex-
tremely high to affect glass fiber. It
begins to lose some strength at 600°F
(315°C) and softens above 1350°F
(732°C). Obviously, ironing not only will
not affect glass fiber; it is actually a waste
of time.
480 UNIT 6 CONSUMER INFORMATION
Minor Specialty Fibers. Some minor
fibers have heat- or flame-resistant proper-
ties that are of particular importance to
the consumer and, therefore, deserve spe-
cial mention here. Saran has a low melt-
ing point, but will not support combus-
tion. Vinyon, which is sometimes
blended with other fibers, shrinks at 125°F
(52°C) and melts at a slightly higher tem-
perature, but will not support combus-
tion. Cordelan matrix fiber reacts to heat
somewhat like the mod acrylics; it is used
for similar purposes. Polybenzimidazole
(PBI) has excellent flame resistance, will
not melt, and will char and decompose
only above 1040°F (560°C) without emit-
ting toxic gases; it is therefore useful for
high-performance industrial purposes.
Kynol novoloid fiber has the highest flame
resistance: 4300°F (2371°C). It will not
melt but will eventually char mostly to
carbon without emitting toxic gases and is
used for apparel and industrial require-
ments that demand the most protection.
EFFECT OF LIGHT
Textiles are constantly exposed to the out-
doors and light. Some need to be very re-
sistant to degradation by sunlight.
Cotton. Cotton loses strength in sunlight
and has a tendency to yellow.
Linen. Linen is much more resistant to
light than cotton.
Wool. Wool loses strength. Its dyeing
properties, however, are improved on ex-
posure of the fiber to sunlight.
Silk. Silk will be deteriorated by sunlight
more quickly than cotton or wool.
Rayons. Viscose and high wet-modulus
rayons lose strength after a long period of
exposure.
Acetate. Acetate will lose some of its
strength, but it will not lose as much as
viscose rayon.
Triacetate (Arnel). Triacetate also loses
some strength from exposure to sunlight
but less than acetate.
Nylon. Prolonged exposure to sunlight
deteriorates nylon. Bright nylon is more
resistant to sunlight than is the semidull or
dull nylon. Ultraviolet absorbers may be
incorporated during the production of
nylon to overcome this problem.
Aramid. Aramid is deteriorated and dis-
colored by prolonged exposure to both di-
rect sunlight and artificial light.
Polyesters. Polyester fibers have good re-
sistance to sunlight, but they will lose
strength after prolonged exposure.
Acrylics. The resistance to sunlight deg-
radation varies from very good to excel-
lent among the various types of acrylic
fibers.
Modacrylics. Both Verel and SEF have
excellent resistance to sunlight. Pro-
longed exposure will cause some deterio-
ration.
Spandex. Clospan and Cleerspan will be
slightly discolored by sunlight but will not
be degraded. Lycra will lose strength
from prolonged exposure.
Polypropylenes. One of the disadvan-
tages of polypropylenes is their susceptibil-
ity to deterioration by direct sunlight. To
overcome this, light stabilizers are some-
times incorporated into the solution dur-
ing production. However, these stabiliz-
ers may themselves break down under
certain conditions.
 CHAPTER 29 COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS 481

Glass Fiber. Sunlight and outdoor expo- them. They may also be attracted by sub-
sure do not affect glass fiber. stances that may be deposited on fabrics.
In the latter instance, appropriate clean-
ing and storage should prove helpful in
EFFECT OF MILDEW preventing damage by insects.
Mildew often attacks textiles, particularly
Cotton and Linen. These fibcrs are not
where there is dampness. Mildew stains
attacked by clothes moth or carpet beetle
and deteriorates fabrics and leaves a
larvae. Under extreme circumstances,
musty odor.
they may be attacked by such insects as
silverfish that are attracted to their cellu-
Nylon, Aramid, Polyester, Acrylic, Mod-
lose content.
acrylic Polypropylene, and Glass
Fibers: These fibers are wholly resistant
Wool. Wool is damaged by clothes moth
to mildew. If any of these fibers ever ap-
and carpet beetle larvae. This is also true
pears to get moldy, it is actual~y the finish
for hair fibers. Special care and protec-
on the fiber and not the fiber Itself that IS
tion is required.
mildewing. Such mildew will wash off
readily leaving no stains or damage.
Silk. Silk is vulnerable, though less likely
to attack by moth larvae, but its general
Spandex. These fibers have good-to-ex-
use and required care make it less likely
cellent resistance to mildew.
than wool to be attacked.
Triaeetate (Arnel). Triacetate is highly
Manmade Fibers. Insects are not at-
resistant to mildew.
tracted to the manmade fibers. However,
fabrics constructed of man made fibers or
Acetate. Acetate has good resistance to yarns in combination with natural fibers
mildew, but discoloration will develop. may be damaged by those insects that are
attracted to natural fibers in them.
Wool. Wool has good resistance to mil-
dew , but it will succumb after a period of
time.
REACTION TO ALKALIES AND
Silk. Silk has good resistance to mildew, ACIDS
but eventually will be damaged under ex-
A knowledge of the reaction of textile
treme conditions of dampness and dark-
fibers to alkalies and acids is important, as
ness.
alkalies destroy protein fibers and acids,
even in a weak solution, destroy cellulose
Cotton, Linen, and Rayons. All these
fibers. For example, chemical tests for
fibers will definitely be attacked by mil-
determining the fiber content of fabrics
dew.
are made by noting the disintegration of
wool and silk when exposed to a strong al-
kali and there is a similar reaction when
RESISTANCE TO INSECTS
cotton and linen are exposed to acids.
Certain kinds of insects may attack textile Good results in the bleaching, finishing,
fibers that provide a source of food for and dyeing processes depend on the reac-
482 UNIT 6 CONSUMER INFORMATION
tion of the fibers to alkali or acid chemical
agents. Not only is this reaction impor-
tant in testing and manufacturing, it also
closely touches the consumer when the
care of fabrics is considered.
This reaction to alkalies and acids is
most important to the consumer when
fabrics are washed. Proper soaps and de-
tergents should be selected for laundering
the various kinds of textiles.
Cotton. Cotton is destroyed by concen-
trated inorganic acids-such as hydro-
chloric, hydrofluoric, sulfuric, and nitric
-and is damaged when such acids are in
dilute solutions. It is not injured by alka-
lies even in hot, strong solutions. Heavy-
duty detergent may be used for washing
cotton.
Linen. The reaction of linen to acids is
similar to that of cotton. Linen is not
readily damaged by alkalies; however,
heavy-duty detergent should not be
rubbed on the fabric as it will turn linen
yellowish.
Wool. Dilute acids do not injure wool,
but concentrated acids destroy it. Wool
is quickly destroyed by strong alkalies. It
dissolves if completely immersed in a boil-
ing alkali. A neutral detergent or mild
soap must be used for wool.
Silk. The organic acids-acetic, tartaric,
stearic, and formic-have little effect on
silk. Weak inorganic acids also have little
effect, but strong solutions injure silk. A
dilute solution of nitric acid produces a
bright yellow color in silk, and this reac-
tion identifies silk from wool when testing.
Silk is destroyed by strong alkalies;
heavy-duty detergents should be avoided
when washing silk. Compared with wool,
silk is more resistant to alkalies but less re-
sistant to strong acids.
Rayons. The rayons react to acids in the
same manner as cotton-they are disinte-
grated by hot dilute acids and cold con-
centrated acids. Viscose rayon is also
weakened by alkalies, and strong solutions
deteriorate them. High wet-modulus
rayons, however, have good resistance to
alkalies, so they have the advantage over
viscose rayon in that they can be mer-
cerized without serious deterioration.
Acetate. Strong acids will destroy ace-
tate. Acetate will, however, withstand so-
lutions of organic acids as strong as 28 per-
cent. Acetate is easily affected by
alkalies, especially if the water is very
hot. Mild soaps and lukewarm water
should therefore be used when laundering
acetate.
Triacetate (Arnel). Acids and alkalies
have the same effect on triacetate that
they have on acetate. Care should be
taken to use mild soaps and lukewarm
water when laundering fabrics of triace-
tate.
ylon. ylon is affected by concen-
trated solutions of the strong mineral and
organic acids. Alkalies, however, have
virtually no effect on nylon.
Aramid. Aramid has outstanding resist-
ance to both strong mineral and organic
acids, but some strength will be lost from
prolonged exposure to hydrochloric, ni-
tric, and sulfuric acids at elevated tem-
peratures. It also has good resistance to
alkalies, though it will be degraded by a
very strong alkali at elevated temperatures
after prolonged exposure.
Polyesters. Polyesters have good resist-
ance to most mineral acids, although a
concentrated solution of sulfuric acid will
decompose them. They also have good
resistance to weak and strong alkalies;

however, they will be disintegrated by
strong alkalies at boiling temperatures.
Acrylics. The acrylic fibers have good-to-
excellent resistance to mineral acids.
They generally have fair-to-good resist-
ance to weak alkalies but will be weakened
by stronger alkali solutions.
Modacrylics. The modacrylic fibers are
extremely resistant to acids. Verel is
highly resistant to alkalies, but will be-
come discolored from excessive expo-
sure. SEF has good resistance to weak al-
kalies but moderate resistance to strong,
cold akalies.
Spandex. There is a wide range of reac-
tions of spandex fibers to alkalies and
acids, depending upon the particular
fiber, the kind of alkali or acid, as well as
its strength and temperature. In general,
the spandex fibers have poor-to-good re-
sistance to most alkalies and acids.
Polypropylenes. The polypropylenes are
among the most resistant textiles to alka-
lies and acids, being relatively inert.
Glass Fiber. The only acids to affect
glass fiber are hydrofluoric and hot phos-
phoric acids. It is also damaged by hot
solutions of weak alkalies and cold solu-
tions of strong alkalies.
AFFINITY FOR DYES
The readiness with which a fiber absorbs
and retains dye affects the appearance and
serviceability of a fabric. Affinity for dyes
is usually determined by the porosity of a
fiber.
Cotton. Cotton has affinity for direct
dyes, reactive dyes, certain azoic dyes,
CHAPTER 29 COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS 483
and sulfur and vat dyes in a reduced
state. The fastness of direct dyes is im-
proved by the aftertreatments that are "
sometimes given. Mercerized cotton ab-
sorbs and retains dyes better than cottons
that are not so treated.
Linen. Linen fibers have a poor affinity
for dyes. The hard, nonporous surface of
the fiber and its natural gum content (pec-
tin) do not allow even penetration of the
dyestuff. A more favorable reaction can
be reduced by removing the pectin by a
strong bleaching process, but this may en-
tail some sacrifice in the durability of the
fabric. For this reason, unbleached
linens are preferable when extreme white-
ness of a fabric is not a primary considera-
tion.
Wool. Wool has a very high affinity for
dyes. Wool fabrics dye well and evenly.
Silk. Silk has excellent affinity for acid,
basic, and some direct and reactive dyes.
Rayons. The rayons have affinities for
the same dyes as cotton, but they usually
dye to a deeper shade. Dull rayon, how-
ever, does not pick up dye as readily as
bright or semidull rayon. The dyestuff is
absorbed evenly, and the material is con-
sequently dyed successfully. Some
rayons are solution-dyed and have excel-
lent fastness.
Acetate. Acetate can be colored with dis-
perse, acid, basic, and azoic dyes. How-
ever, some colors, such as grays and
blues, tend to gas-fade and turn red or
purplish. Excellent fastness can be ob-
tained by solution dyeing.
Triacetate (Arnel). Triacetate has good
affinity for the same dyes as used for ace-
tate. Its resistance to gas-fading and
484 UNIT 6 CONSUMER INFORMATION
crocking is generally somewhat better
than that of acetate, if properly dyed.
Black solution-dyed triacetate has excel-
lent fastness.
Nylon. Nylon may be colored with a va-
riety of dyes including basic, acid, azoic,
chrome, premetallized, disperse, and
reactive dyes. The colors are generally
fast. It can also be solution-dyed.
Aramid. Aramid has poor dyeability.
Nomex aramid staple can be dyed with
the aid of a carrier in pressurizing equip-
ment. Certain colors are obtained by so-
lution dyeing.
Polyesters. Most polyester fibers can be
dyed with disperse and developed dyes
only at high temperatures with a carrier.
For some types, azoic and cationic dyes
may be used.
Acrylics. All acrylic fibers can be dyed
with disperse and cationic dyes with gen-
erally good fastness. Some types of Orlon
can be dyed with acid, naphthol, and se-
lected vat dyes. Zefran may also be pro-
duced in precolored form for excellent
color fastness.
Modacrylics. The modacrylics can be
colored with disperse and cationic dyes.
Verel can also be dyed with premetalized
dyes.
ONS
oUES!1 --
REVIEW
••1. How may a knowledge of textiles help
the consumer?
2. What practical significance does the
quality of absorbency have in apparel?
Spandex. The spandex fibers take a wide
variety of dyes well. These include dis-
perse, chrome, premetallized, and some
selected acid and basic dyes. This is one
of the great advantages of using spandex
rather than rubber.
Polypropylenes. One of the major limi-
tations of the polypropylenes has been
their lack of affinity for dyes. Conse-
quently, the fibers are frequently pig-
mented during manufacture. Some have
dye receptors added during production to
facilitate dyeing with disperse dyes and
certain vat, sulfur, and azoic dyes.
Glass Fiber. A special technique is used
that causes the dye to stick to the surface
of glass fiber.
RESISTANCE TO PERSPIRATION
Aside from the fact that perspiration may
affect the col or of fabrics and may stain
some, it will cause deterioration of some
textile fibers. To minimize this, frequent
cleaning is advisable.
atural Fibers. All natural fibers can be
degraded by perspiration, but silk left un-
cleaned for some time after wearing is
especially susceptible to damage.
Manmade Fibers. The manmade fibers
have excellent resistance to perspiration,
with the exception of the rayons which
may be somewhat degraded.
3. What quality of acetate makes it desir-
able as a lining material?
4. Why is cotton rather than rayon used
so extensively for infants' wear?
 CHAPTER 29
5. (a) Why is elasticity important in tex-
tiles? (b) Ho",' may elasticity in textile fab-
rics be improved?
6. What qualities of linen make it suit-
able for (a) towels and handkerchiefs, (b)
summer apparel, (c) draperies?
7. What qualities of silk make it suitable
for (a) women's dresses, (b) neckties, (c)
ribbons?
8. What specific qualities do spun rayon
fabrics have that are not found in filament
rayon fabrics?
9. What properties may wool fabrics be
expected to havc?
10. How does a napped surface affect the
hygienic quality of a fabric?
11. Compare the merits of (a) wool, (b)
nylon, (c) acrylic/spandex swimsuits,
12. Why does a fabric of nvlon filament
yarn drv faster than one of nylon spun
yarn?
13. What single characteristic do all the
acrylic fibers have that is of great advan-
tage to the consumer and homemaker?
14. Why is the use of glass fiber limited?
15. Which textiles would be damaged
quickly by cigarette sparks?
16. Which textiles would be considered
best for curtains? Whv?
17. Compare the ,~'armth of wool,
acrylic, and polypropylene fabrics,
COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS 485
18. Compare the elasticity of wool, silk,
nylon, and spandex.
19. Compare the launderability of the
various textiles, ;
20. Which are the fibers best suited for
flame-resistant fabrics?
21. Which fibers are sensitive to perspira-
tion?
1. Obtain as many samples of fabrics as
you can, and cut them into small square
pieces. Mount them on small cards.
Determine the fiber content of each sam-
ple, and record your data on the card.
Cive all possible uses for each fabric.
Cive the reasons for your answers in terms
of the basic qualities of the fibers.
2. Observe carefully the various contents
of your home furnishings, and make a rec-
ord of every item that uses any textile
fibers. Add the name of the fibers used,
indicating if this is a guess or the result of
observation and analysis. Give reasons
for eaeh answer. >