Little Weebee Doll

Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved.

© 2017 Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved.
Finished products created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale.
Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg when finished products are listed for sale.
I, Laura Tegg have made every effort to ensure that the instructions in this pattern are accurate and safe,
and therefore cannot accept liability for any resulting injury, damage or loss to persons or property, however it
may arise. Names of manufacturers and product ranges are provided for the information of readers,
with no intention to infringe copyright or trademarks.
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Made using aran weight yarn and a 3mm hook and with my personal gauge Little Weebee stands
at just under 5 inches tall. Made from the toes to the top of the head in one go! Only the arms
need sewing on Other yarn weights and hooks can of course be used to create smaller or
larger dolls.
The following FREE clothing patterns are available for Little Weebee:
Bubble Hem Dress
Removable Mermaid Tail
Trousers – to make a top to go with these, you can use the bodice from the above Bubble
Hem Dress

The following paid patterns are also available:

Wardrobe Essentials Part One – contains 12 items of clothing & a hair cap
Wardrobe Essentials Part Two – contains 12 items of clothing & a hair cap
You can find my all of my Weebee dolls and outfit patterns, in my Ravelry store here:
http://www.ravelry.com/designers/laura-tegg
Now you can also join our Facebook page dedicated to Weebee where I like to post sneak peaks
of new patterns and host the odd CAL or two! Everyone welcome!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1590618731240406/
Useful info for those who crochet left handed
Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left
handed https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=554&type_id=T
Terminology: US
Other items needed:
Stitch marker Stuffing
Tapestry needle Pair of 12mm safety eyes

Abbreviations:
Chain (ch) Single Crochet Front Loop Only (scflo)
Loop (lp) Space (sp)
Magic ring (MR) Skip (skp)
Next (nxt) Stitch (st)
Round (rnd) Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc) Yarn Over (yo)

Special Stitches
Please read as this should be used throughout the pattern!
Invisible single crochet decrease
Sc2tog: Insert hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on
hook), yo and draw through 2 lps, yo and complete sc as normal. Link to Youtube video (useful
from 1min 48 in): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HWGl0Ah-Y0

Pattern Start
Legs – make 2
Legs are crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the
rounds from the foot up. You will need a stitch marker to keep
track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the
marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the
previous one.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a st), work 8sc (8sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in first st, 2sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2sc in next st,
repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in the back loop only of each st around (12sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around (12sts)
Please see Special Stitches as all sc2tog’s within this pattern should be worked as invisible decreases – if you’re used
to doing invisible decreases but find that you get little lumps when you work them please watch the video to make sure
that you’re doing them this particular way as they should be barely noticeable.
Rnd 5: Sc in each of the first 4sts, sc2tog x 2, sc in each of the remaining 4sts (10sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each of the first 4sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the remaining 4sts (9sts)
Rnds 7 - 9: Sc in each st around (9sts)
Fasten off first leg but not on second – you should be at the back of this leg, stuff the feet and legs
so the legs have a nicely shaped little foot (you may need to use the opposite end of your crochet
hook to help you do this) and continue on to the…
Body
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep
track of where the beginning of each round starts.
If you struggle with this next part there is a joining legs video
tutorial for my Standard Sized Doll on the Weebee and Friends
YouTube channel which works in the same way but obviously has
different stitch counts but it should help you to understand how
the legs are joined:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHyfhAHhDS8
Rnd 10: Work 3 sc then take first leg (fastened off) and place it next to
the one on your hook so that both feet are facing the same way, then sc
into the last st worked on the last round on the first leg, continue to work
8 further sts around this leg and then the remaining 6sts around the leg
you started with (18sts)
There may be a small hole between the legs when joined. When
you have finished the doll, simply take a small piece of yarn and
with your darning needle sew the hole closed.
Rnd 11: *Sc in each of the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, repeat from *
around (21sts)
Rnd 12: *Sc in each of the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 13: *Sc in each of the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, repeat from * around (27sts)
Rnds 14 & 15: Sc in each st around (27sts)
Stuff the body firmly as you work up towards the head.
Rnd 16: *Sc in each of the next 7sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 17: Sc in each st around (24st)
Rnd 18: *Sc in each of the next 2sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnd 19: Sc in each st around (18sts)
Rnd 20: *Sc in the next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 21 & 22: Sc in each st around (12sts)
Do not fasten off and continue on to the…
Head
Again continue to crochet in continuous spirals without
joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep track of
where the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 23: Work 2sc in each st around (24sts)
Rnd 24: *Sc in each of the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st,
repeat from * around (30sts)
Rnd 25: *Sc in each of the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st,
repeat from * around (36sts)
Rnds 26 - 33: Sc in each st around (36sts) – if using
safety eyes place them between rounds 28 and 29,
making sure that they are placed 5sts apart
Stuff firmly as you work, before the opening gets too small. Push stuffing from the head down into
the neck to ensure your doll is firmly stuffed throughout.
Rnd 34: *Sc in each of the next 4sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (30sts)
Rnd 35: *Sc in each of the next 3sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 36: *Sc in each of the next 2sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnd 37: *Sc in the next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 38: Sc2tog around (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail, weave yarn through remaining stitches with a darning needle and pull to
close the hole and hide any loose ends.
Hands and Arms – make 2
Crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from hand to
shoulder. Use a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of
each round starts.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a st) and work 8sc (8sts)
Rnd 2: 3hdc in the first st (creates hand shaping), sc in each of the
remaining 7sts (10sts)
Rnd 3: Sc2tog, sc in each of the remaining 8sts (9sts)
Rnd 4: Sc2tog, sc in each of the remaining 7sts (8sts)
Rnds 5 - 7: Sc in each st around (8sts)
Stuff arm – putting more in the hand and less at the top.
Rnd 8: *Sc in each of the next 2sts, sc2tog, repeat from * once more
(6sts)
Fasten off leaving a long tail, then use a whip stitch to sew the top of the
arm closed before sewing the arm into place 2 rows beneath the neck.
Nose (Optional)
Take a length of skin tone yarn and sew it several times loosely over a
couple of stitches just below the eyes as shown here.
Rosy Cheeks (Optional)
To add colour to your dolls cheeks, you can use ordinary blusher and a
blusher brush, sweep it beneath the eye at an angle up towards the hair
line.

Easy Short Hair Cap

Hair cap is worked in joined rounds, at the end of each round join the
last st to the first with a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (does not count as a st from now on) work 11hdc, join
(as above) (11sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2hdc in each st around, join (22sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, hdc in first st, work 2hdc in next st, * work hdc in next st,
work 2hdc in next st, repeat from * around, join (33sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, hdc into the back loop only of each stich around, join
(33sts)
Rnds 5+: Repeat round 4 until you are happy with the size of your hair
cap, it should sit just above the eyes as shown and just above the neck
at the back of the head.
If your hair cap is looking too big, try working it with a smaller hook size, if it turns out too small, try
working it with a bigger hook.
Fasten off leaving a long tail to make the gather and sew cap to dolls head.
Using a darning needle use tail to weave in and out up the join 3 rounds, pull to gather, then use
the needle wrap the yarn around the gather several times until you are happy with how it looks,
sew cap to head using a whip st in desired way and then hide any loose ends. There is a video of
how to gather a cap on the Weebee and Friends YouTube Channel here. To see how I sew on
my hair caps, see this video here.

I really hope you have enjoyed completing this pattern!

Please share your Weebee projects with us on the Weebee Appreciation Society
Facebook Page (link on page 2) and don’t forget to add your project to Ravelry!