BUSINESSNEWS
fabric; to apply different liquors to
INTERNATIONAL
Monforts solutions
for technical textiles
The German textile finishing
machine specialist A Monforts
Textilmaschinen offers new and
advanced components for the treatment
of technical textiles in finishing and
coating processes. The Eco-Applicator,
for example, offers significant energy
savings for a wide range of technical
textile applications.
A Monforts Textilmaschinen has
introduced its latest generation, Eco
Applicator system for the application of
liquors or functional chemicals and
designed for a wide range of technical
textiles applications, complying with the
VDMA's Blue Competence sustainability
initiative. The Eco-Applicator soft
coating process offers significant
energy savings with
reduced liquor for a wide
range of applications
such as felt finishes,
coated materials and
medical textiles including
Nano coating, water
repellancy, softeners,
flame retardency and
insect repellancy. It has
been designed to apply a
liquor to one side of the
fabric; to apply a liquor
to both sides of the
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 8
called upon to quickly produce a
either side of the fabric; or to apply two succession of materials with widely
different liquors consecutively to a differing properties - often within a
single side of the fabric. The system is single shift.
also suitable for finishing narrow fabrics To cater to the flexibility in
such as bands and ribbons. processing technology demanded by
According to Monforts’ Head of such wide-ranging production, Monforts
Technical Textiles, Jürgen Hanel, the has developed the new Montex Allround,
Eco Applicator has become even more a modular, interchangeable coating
multi functional system for technical textiles. The
and patented Montex Allround offers
multipurpose considerable benefits to manufacturers
with the lowest of coated technical textiles - and not
energy input for least in respect of its flexibility. The
consecutive modular coating heads of the system
drying, due to can be quickly and easily changed by a
its minimal specially-designed undercarriage from
liquor the side of the unit, allowing it to be
application. adapted for different applications. There
Designed Mr Jürgen Hanel are modules for knife and slot die
for special coating, in addition to those suitable for
coating processes and, technical and flexure, gravure and rotary-screen
non-wovens applications, a Twin Therm printing. Special modules for powder
system allows different finishing scattering and spraying are also
temperatures in both the upper and available. The unit can be enclosed with
lower nozzle systems of the Montex a special casing when the handling of
fabrics treated with organic, or even
toxic solvents, is taking place.
The Montex Allround, which consists
of a spreading unit and a pulling device
along with the selected coating head,
allows for the tension-free coating of
the substrate along a greatly-reduced
web path and a very short period of
‘open' coating prior to it entering the
dryer; ensuring significantly less chance
of contamination. The shortest possible
distance between the coating head and
the stenter infeed ensures the highest
quality coating results.
stenter. This is ideal for Only recently introduced, Monforts
applications such as Montex Allround modular and
automobile carpets interchangeable coating system is
where different already proving popular with technical
temperatures are textile producers. Global deliveries are
required on both sides imminent to producers in China, France
of the product. and Pakistan.
Technical textiles are Especially for technical textiles, a
extremely diverse in new parallel, integrated, twin exhaust
their end-use channel arrangement is available also for
applications and alternate chamber arrangements to offer
manufacturers can be a staggered ‘counter type' operation.
Denim 2015_AsianDyerFullPage 01.04.15 12:03 Seite 1

Competence in
Denim Finishing

Excellence in
Dyeing & Finishing

A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited

A-19, C.T.S. No. 689 Veera Desai Marg.
Mumbai - 400 053
Tel.: 0091-22-66 76 61 00
Fax: 0091-22-2673 2446
e-Mail: monforts@ateindia.com

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG

Germany | A Member of CHTC Fong’s Industries

www.monforts.com

Monforts own Technologists are also
able to offer detailed advice on all
aspects of technical textiles coating,
finishing, laminating and pre-
condensation.
Chances for the
Iranian textile sector
Recently, a textile machiner y
symposium took place in the Iranian
capital Teheran, organised by the
German VDMA. This was the first
German event of this type on Iranian
soil in the last ten years. With about
600 guests each day, the symposium
was very well attended and showed
clearly the interest in German textile
machinery and their good reputation.
The event was opened by Mrs Golnar
Nasrollahi (general manager of Textile &
Garment Department), Mrs Regina
Brückner (chairwoman of the VDMA
Association for Textile Machinery) and
Mr Michael von Ungern-Sternberg
(German Ambassador).
In total about 40 technology
presentations were held. Brückner
participated with a paper about
innovative technologies regarding the
thermal treatment of textiles. After
that, the guests had the opportunity to
exchange views and compare notes with
the representatives of German
companies. It was clearly perceivable
that there is a lot of unsatisfied
demand in technological know-how and
investments in Iran and a great general
interest in German plants and lines with
high quality standards. This is a clear
opportunity for Brückner with their
production site Germany to score in
comparison with their competitors.
Most of the visitors were decision-
makers of private textile and carpet
producers. Many of these companies
do actually need spare parts and after-
sales service but are also interested in
investing in new machines. The Iranian
Textile Minister Ms Nasrollahi
emphasised in her opening speech that
it is one of the targets of the Iranian
government to stimulate the exports of
the textile industry. Due to the political
sanctions in the last years, Iranian
companies could only buy Asian
machines and lines. But now, the
Opening ceremony of the symposium on 21 April 2015 in Teheran
prospects are good for German
machiner y suppliers to regain
market shares.
Since decades, Brückner is leading
in the development and the production
of finishing lines for the textile industry.
It offers individual solutions for the
coating and finishing of technical
textiles, nonwovens, floor covering and
classical garment textiles. In addition,
it has energy saving systems such as
heat-recovery or exhaust air cleaning
systems in its product portfolio and
accompanies its customer with advisory
service during the complete project
phase and beyond.
Made in Green by
Oeko-Tex
For more than 20 years, OEKO-TEX
has been a reliable partner for textile
companies committed to human-
ecologically safe products and the
implementation of more sustainable
manufacturing. The newest addition to
the product portfolio is Made in Green
by OEKO-TEX - a traceable product label
which allows for communication
throughout the supply chain all the way
to the end-user. The label ensures that
Made in Green textiles are not only
tested for harmful substances (certified
according to OEKO-TEX Standard 100)
but also sustainably produced in
accordance with OEKO-TEX guidelines.
BUSINESSNEWS
The label can be awarded to any kind of
textile product anywhere in the world at
any stage of the textile supply chain.
With the Made in Green label, brands,
manufacturers and retailers have the
chance to promote their responsible
practices to their customers in a clear
way on point-of-sale material.
The added benefit of Made in Green
is that each labelled product can be
easily traced, thus offering new levels
of transparency throughout the supply
chain, all the way to the consumer.
Every Made in Green label has a
product ID and/or a QR code which
shows where the product was
manufactured. Depending on the data
release granted by the supply chain, the
labelling system can provide information
on the production sites in which an
article was manufactured, which
production stage the individual factories
belong to and in which country the
manufacturing took place.
As proof that products with the
Made in Green label are harmless to
health, they must successfully pass a
laboratory test based on the OEKO-TEX
Standard 100. Proof that the conditions
in the participating production facilities
are environmentally friendly and socially
responsible is provided through an
extensive assessment and a subsequent
company audit in line with certification
according to STeP by OEKO-TEX.
For textile products that consumers
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 11
BUSINESSNEWS
Licensing agreement reached
on brilliant new blue pigment
A brilliant new blue pigment -
discovered serendipitously by Oregon
State University chemists in 2009 -
is now reaching the marketplace,
where it will be used in a wide range
of coatings and plastics.
The commercial development has
solved a quest that began thousands
of years ago, and captured the
imagination of ancient Egyptians, the
Han dynasty in
China, Mayan
cultures and
others - to develop
a near-per fect blue
pigment.
It happened
accidently. OSU
chemist Mas
Subramanian and
his team were
experimenting with
new materials that
could be used in electronics
applications and they mixed
manganese oxide - which is black in
colour - with other chemicals and
heated them in a furnace to nearly
2000oF. One of their samples turned
out to be a vivid blue. Oregon State
graduate student Andrew Smith initially
made these samples to study their
electrical properties. ‘It was serendipity,
actually; a happy, accidental discovery,'
Subramanian said.
The new pigment is formed by a
unique crystal structure that allows
the manganese ions to absorb red and
green wavelengths of light, while only
reflecting blue. The vibrant blue is so
durable, and its compounds are so
stable - even in oil and water - that
the colour does not fade. These
buy at retail, the OEKO-TEX guidelines
for obtaining the Made in Green label
are as follows:
z Any single component that equals or
exceeds 5% of the total weight of the
textile product must be supplied by
STeP by OEKO-TEX certified production
facilities. At least 85% of the weight of
a single piece of textile must be
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 12
characteristics make the new pigment
versatile for a variety of commercial
products. Better yet, Subramanian
said, none of the pigment's
ingredients are toxic.
OSU has reached an exclusive
licensing agreement for the pigment,
which is known as ‘YInMn' blue, with
The Shepherd Colour Company. It will
be used in a wide range of coatings
and plastics.
‘This new blue
pigment is a sign
that there are new
pigments to be
discovered in the
inorganic pigments
family,' said
Geoffrey T Peake,
research and
development
manager for The
Shepherd Colour
Company. Commercial quantities of
the pigment will be available later this
year, he added.
The lack of toxic materials is
critical, Subramanian pointed out.
Other attempts at creating new
pigments were not so fortunate.
Cobalt blue, developed in France in
the early 1800s, can be carcinogenic.
Prussian blue can release cyanide.
Other blue pigments are not stable
when exposed to heat or acidic
conditions.
In addition to testing the blue
pigment for other applications,
Subramanian is attempting to
discover new pigments by creating
intentional laboratory ‘accidents.' His
original work was funded by the
National Science Foundation.
supplied by STeP by OEKO-TEX certified
production facilities.
z The general rule for the above
mentioned criteria is that all the making
up and wet/chemical processing
facilities have to be STeP by OEKO-TEX
cer tified.
z The product must be OEKO-TEX
Standard 100 certified.
For intermediate products sold
within the supply chain, the label
issuer must be STeP by OEKO-TEX
certified and fulfil all of the above
mentioned criteria.
During the Made in Green by OEKO-
TEX launch phase, all critical making up
and wet/chemical processing facilities
must comply with the requirements
stated above.
Ultimately, in order to receive the
Made in Green label, all facilities in the
remaining processing stages (spinning,
weaving and knitting mills, accessories,
fibre production and the production of
raw materials) will meet the
requirements for STeP certification.
HTE supports Panko
Vina with plant
productivity
program
Huntsman Textile Effects is
continuing its support of the textiles
sector in Vietnam with the
announcement that it will work with
Panko Vina Corporation to implement
a Productivity Improvement Program
(PIP) that reinforces the knitwear
mill's growth as a sustainable
export business.
The PIP will focus on the Panko Vina
textile mill in Binh Duong Province. The
plant has already adopted new
technologies such as the AVITERA SE
and TERASIL dyes to save energy and
water. It is now seeking to optimise and
standardise its processes and work
practices to gain maximum benefit from
these advanced systems and further
improve yield and product quality.
Technical experts from Huntsman
Textile Effects will carry out a full
operational audit at the Panko Vina
facility and recommend ways for the
mill to improve productivity and
profitability. They will also train Panko
Vina's technical team to help them
further streamline operations.
Implemented in many mills around
the world, the Huntsman PIP has proven
to be capable of reducing water
consumption by as much as 50% and
energy consumption by 30% while
increasing output by 30%, or more,

using existing plant capacity. Critically,
PIP has also successfully improved
right-first-time performance by 95%.
Heun Tae Kim, president, Panko
Vina Corporation, said, ‘As a major
producer of knitwear for world markets,
Panko Vina is focused on providing high-
quality products in compliance with the
most stringent industry standards and
in accordance with sustainable best
practices. With Huntsman Textile
Effects as our innovation partner, we
look forward to strengthening our
position as a preferred par tner of key
brand retailers around the world.'
Paul Hulme, president, Huntsman
Textile Effects, added, ‘The garment
sector is already Vietnam's most
important export earner. As companies
like Panko Vina focus on raising
standards to maximise productivity and
profit without compromising the
environment, even more growth is
possible. Huntsman Textile Effects is
pleased to support Panko Vina and help
strengthen Vietnam's capabilities in
high-quality textile production.'
DyeCoo teams
with DyStar for
innovative
development
DyStar Group and DyeCoo Textile
Systems are collaborating on the
development of products, using
DyeCoo's breakthrough technology of
substituting carbon dioxide (CO2) for
water in the dyeing process. DyeCoo
Textile Systems is the world's first
supplier of industrial CO2 dyeing
equipment, which uses recycled CO2
gas instead of
water to permeate
textiles with dyes.
This partnership
will pave the way
for more ecological
products which will
meet the rigorous
demands of the
industry. This
technology offers a
huge potential to
save water and
energy, both of
which are top priorities for the textile
dyers. DyStar fully commits to this
project to offer the highest sustainable
solutions for the textile industry.
‘We are very pleased with DyStar's
dedication to support our water and
chemical free dyeing technology.
Collaborations like this one are key to
further help our ground breaking
technology towards global
implementation. Seeing that the textile
industr y is growing exponentially,
making tangible sustainable and
economical viable improvements a
reality, are not only vital for our planet,
but also for the future of the entire
industr y. We strive to deliver
commercially viable solutions for the
textile industry while continuing to
develop breakthrough technologies.
Companies like DyStar help us to
achieve those goals', says Mats
Blacker, CEO, DyeCoo.
DyStar and DyeCoo are dedicated
advocators for sustainability and are
aligned in the vision to reduce the textile
industry's future environmental impact.
BASF inaugurates
new plant for high
performance
Ultramid in China
BASF recently inaugurated its new
Ultramid (polyamide 6 and 6/6,6)
polymerisation plant at the Shanghai
Chemical Industry Park in Shanghai,
China. The new plant, with a capacity of
100,000 metric tons per year, will
further strengthen BASF's local
production and supply network and better
serve the growing market in Asia Pacific.
BUSINESSNEWS
‘This is the first investment in
polyamide polymerisation for BASF in
Asia Pacific and shows our strong
commitment to this market. The
innovative production setup enables us
to respond to our customers' needs
even quicker with more flexibility,' said
Dr Kurt Bock, chairman of the Board of
Executive Directors of BASF.
‘The demand for polyamide products
in the engineering plastics, fibre and
film industries will continue to grow
strongly, particularly in China. With the
local production facility, we are well-
positioned to support our customers'
strong growth and help them to develop
innovative products for tapping into
market opportunities,' said Dr Albert
Heuser, president, Functions Asia
Pacific and president and chairman,
Greater China, BASF.
The BASF wholly-owned plant was
built at the Shanghai Chemical
Industry Park in Caojing which is also
home to a world-scale facility for
integrated isocyanates, operated by
BASF and partners.
With more than 60 years of
experience, BASF is the leading supplier
of high quality polyamide and polyamide
intermediates for the engineering
plastics, film, fibre and monofilament
industry. The line of products include
Ultramid B (polyamide 6), Ultramid C
(polyamide 6/6,6 copolymer), Ultramid
A (polyamide 6,6) and Ultramid S
Balance (polyamide 6,10). The product
offerings are supplemented by technical
services for the customers.
BASF operates Ultramid
polymerisation plants also in
Ludwigshafen, Germany; Antwerp,
Belgium; Freeport, USA; and São Paulo,
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 13
BUSINESSNEWS
HTE to support Queen South Textile Mills
in promoting sustainability
As the global market for dyed yarns
and fabrics becomes increasingly
competitive, Huntsman Textile Effects
is helping Queen South Textile Mills to
reinforce its industry leadership with a
renewed emphasis on environmental
and economic sustainability.
Under a Memorandum of
Understanding signed on 4 May
2015, Huntsman Textile Effects will
collaborate with Queen South Textile
Mills to ensure it is among the first
to adopt the latest sustainability
innovations. It will also support
Queen South Textile Mills to
streamline its operations and
optimise its processes by imple-
menting a Productivity Improvement
Program (PIP) at the company's
textile mill in Dhaka and providing
technical support and staff training.
This strategic cooperation will
help Queen South Textile Mills
maintain its leading edge through
innovation while continuing to comply
with the stringent requirements of its
export customers around the world.
Queen South Textile Mills has
already adopted advanced Huntsman
Textile Effects technologies, including
the market-leading AVITERA SE dyes.
An award-winning flagship dye
technology for exhaust application on
cellulosic fibres, AVITERA SE dyes
meet increasingly stringent
environmental standards and help
textile mills improve their productivity
and profitability for better economic
sustainability. Now available in a
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 14
broad palette colour spectrum with
highest light fastness, AVITERA SE
dyes significantly reduce water and
energy consumption and carbon
emissions by up to 50%.
‘We are honoured to be an
innovation partner in Queen South
Textile Mills' drive for increased
sustainability,' said Mr Chuck Hirsch,
vice president, Sales and Technical
Resources of Huntsman Textile
Effects. ‘Bangladesh is an important
market for us and we are pleased to
collaborate with leading and like-
minded companies here, such as
Queen South Textile Mills, as they
equip themselves to better support
brands and retailers in
building a more
environmentally
sustainable textile
supply chain.'
Mr Jamie Wong,
CEO of Queen South
Textile Mills,
commented, ‘Our
cooperation with
Huntsman Textile
Effects recognises the
value of the innovative
technologies it can offer and is part
of our strategy to achieve long-term
sustainability for our business. The
tie-up with Huntsman will help give us
a competitive edge as we
differentiate Queen South in today's
dynamic business environment.'
Experts from Huntsman Textile
Effects will carr y out a full
operational audit at the Queen South
Textile Mills' Dhaka facility and
recommend ways for the mill to
improve productivity and profitability.
Implemented in many mills around the
world, the Huntsman PIP has proven
to be capable of reducing water
consumption by as much as 50% and
energy consumption by 30% while
increasing output by 30% and more
using existing plant. Critically, PIP
has also successfully improved right-
first-time per formance by 95%.
Brazil. The production of polyamide for
film, textile and carpet fibre as well as
for engineering plastics applications is
integrated into BASF's global Verbund
structure with polyamide intermediates
(i.e. adipic acid, anolone, caprolactam
etc), chemical raw materials (i.e.
ammonia, cyclohexane, sulphuric acid
etc), energy, by-product recovery,
logistics and other services.
High performance
and product diff-
erentiation critical
for elastomers
The global elastomers market is all
set to usher in an era of innovation with
original equipment manufacturers
(OEMs) increasingly demanding high-
performance materials. Owing to the
profusion of choice, customers are
likely to base their purchase decisions
on performance metrics such as
durability, product finish, and flexibility
of use. This, in turn, compels smaller
companies to focus on product
development to stay competitive.
New analysis from Frost & Sullivan,
Analysis of the Global Elastomers
Market, finds that the total market was
worth US$ 21.52 billion in 2014 and is
expected to grow to US$ 34.73 billion
in 2021. Compared to synthetic
elastomer (SE), the thermoplastic
elastomers (TPE) segment is expected
to grow faster.
Currently, the TPE segment is the
torchbearer for technological
advancements. Its primary focus is on
improving processing attributes and
enhancing design flexibility, while the
product's inherent advantage of high
recyclable content makes it the
material of choice for sustainable
solutions. As TPE enables a wide range
of applications, it is rapidly attracting
business from a diverse range of end-
user markets, especially the fast-
growing consumer electronics market.
Despite the vibrancy of the market,
it is facing competition from alternative
materials such as polyvinyl chloride
(PVC) and speciality plastics. The
market can take heart from OEMs'
evident desire to replace these

materials in several applications. This
has opened up the market to
elastomers vendors that are able to
substitute PVC and metals with
competing plastic compounds as well
as reinforced and composite materials.
The global market for elastomers is
expected to thrive even with the
saturation of the manufacturing bases
in North America and Western Europe,
as the burgeoning of end industries in
Asia-Pacific and rest of the world has
restored balance to the market. Still,
factors such as the declining demand of
solid wire and cable in external
insulation and the high cost of
switching to TPE can dampen the
growth of the elastomers market.
Another serious concern for the
market is a possible raw material
shortage. However, participants can
stave off this challenge through vertical
integration. Consolidations with regional
participants with specialised product
capabilities will also allow larger
companies to boost their market share
and regional visibility. Partnership
agreements involving compound/
component manufacturers and OEMs
will become more prevalent for specific
application segments.
‘Polymer manufacturers that are
backwardly integrated will have better
control over the volatility of raw
material prices, which will help them
maintain a competitive edge in the long
run,' noted Sarkar. ‘Overall, a
consistent supply of high-performance
products will be the key differentiator
among market participants.'
Techtextil 2015 sets
new exhibitor and
visitor records
Techtextil once again underscored
its unrivalled position as the world's
leading trade fair for technical textiles
and nonwovens. Altogether, it attracted
1,389 exhibitors from 52 countries
(2013: 1,330 exhibitors from 48
countries) and around 28,500 trade
visitors from 102 nations (2013:
27,418 from 97 nations) to the Fair
and Exhibition Centre in Frankfurt am
Main from 4 to 7 May 2015. With
the addition of Hall 6.1, the area
occupied by the fair rose to 57,000 m2
(2013: 53,100 m2).
‘Techtextil shows the future of the
textile industr y. Once again, the
numerous innovations presented by our
exhibitors demonstrate what is possible
with technical textiles and nonwovens
today, tomorrow and the day after
tomorrow. Techtextil confirmed its
global character with a jump of 7% in
the number of international trade
visitors', said Detlef Braun, Member of
the Executive Board of Messe Frankfurt
GmbH. All in all, the percentage of
guests from outside Germany rose to
59% (2013: 57%).
Over 5,500 trade visitors to
Techtextil came from the concurrent
Texprocess. 273 exhibitors (2013: 270
excluding ‘Source it') and almost
13,500 international guests (2013:
12,128) came to Frankfur t for the
leading international trade fair for
Processing Textile and Flexible
Materials. Together, the two fairs
welcomed 1,662 exhibitors from 54
countries and almost 42,000 trade
visitors from 116 nations.
The focus of Techtextil 2015 was on
new applications, technologies and
materials. The exhibitors presented a
broad spectrum of products including
textile-integrated LEDs, electrodes and
sensor systems, 3D interlaced
structures and woven fabrics, as well as
BUSINESSNEWS
new coating systems for multi-functional
finishes. These technologies permit an
ever-wider range of applications for
textiles in a variety of sectors, including
lightweight construction, roof building,
automobile interiors and functional
apparel and underwear.
Sustainability continues to be an
important theme for the sector. Thus,
biopolymer-based fibres, textiles for
open sea biomass cultivation, durable
and recyclable fibres were among the
subjects covered by the well-attended
lectures of the Techtextil Symposium.
Numerous nonwoven innovations were
also presented. The exhibitors showed,
interalia, glass-fibre, polyester spun-
bonded and heating nonwovens, as well
as water-jet bonding technologies for the
Clothtech, Geotech, Hometech, Medtech
and Mobiltech application areas.
The rating for the fair given by
visitors remained on a high level in
2015: 97% said Techtextil was good to
ver y good (2013: 96%). The current
economic situation in the sector was
also seen in a very positive light. Thus,
92% of all visitors said they consider
the current economic situation to be
satisfactory to good (2013: 87%)
whereby the mood among international
visitors improved significantly over the
previous event. The response of the
exhibitor side was equally good. 87% of
exhibitors said they had achieved their
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 15
BUSINESSNEWS
New Levafix ECO Black by DyStar
DyStar announced the launch of
its new Levafix ECO Black which is
completely free of p-chloroaniline
(PCA) and other regulatory-controlled
amines - a complete and advanced
novelty in the industry.
As it is based on new chemistr y,
it is free of PCA and does not contain
any of the commonly used commodity
reactive black dyes. This new dye is
compliant with all Restricted
Substance Lists (RSL) and with Oeko-
Tex Standard 100. It is also free of
heavy metals.
Levafix ECO Black is a neutral black
shade with a superior level of colour
constancy between daylight and artificial
light sources. Due to its novel
chemistry, higher wet and light fastness
properties can be achieved compared
to conventional reactive black dyes:
z Very good fastness to simulated
multiple wash (ISO 105 C09,
AATCC190, M&S C10A) leading to
reduced wash-down and shade change
problems for end-users.
z The ISO 105 C06 C2S (60oC with
perborate) wash fastness is superior
to conventional reactive Black types.
goals for the fair (2013: 90%); 94%
see the economic situation in the
sector as being satisfactory to good
(2013: 88%).
After Germany, the biggest visitor
nations were, in chronological order,
Italy, France, Turkey, Great Britain, the
Netherlands, USA, Spain, Poland,
Switzerland and Belgium. Significantly
more visitors came from the USA,
Spain, East and North Europe and
South Korea.
Techtextil 2017 will be held at
the Frankfur t Fair and Exhibition
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 16
z Levafix ECO Black also gives
excellent results in the demanding
adidas wash fastness test at 40oC.
z Light (ISO 105 B02 Xenon) and
perspiration-light fastness (ISO 105-
B07 [former Nike PLF test]) are
superior.
z The fastness profile is completed
by good results in the chlorinated
water fastness test (ISO 105 E03 -
20 ppm active chlorine)
z There is low or on-tone staining of
adjacent fibres in the dyebath (no
brown staining of polyamide, unlike
many reactive black dyes).
These superior oxidative wash
and light fastness properties lead to
a more sustainable textile end-
product due to better retention of
the original shade.
With this novelty, DyStar provides
another innovation to the textile
industry to achieve best quality with
minimal environmental impact. DyStar
will continue to develop further
Levafix dyes with similar outstanding
ECO and performance properties in
coming months to offer a complete
range to its customers.
Centre in Frankfurt am Main from
9 to 12 May 2017.
Evonik opens SAP
Application Centre
Evonik, a supplier of superabsorbent
polymers, inaugurated a new application
technology center for superabsorbent
polymers in Krefeld, Germany. The
company invested 1 million. The new
facility strengthens the position of
Evonik as an innovative solutions
provider for superabsorbent polymers.
‘Our customers will directly benefit from
an even further improved technical ser-
vice. The service capabilities of Evonik
are the industry-wide benchmark and the
basis for strong partnerships and develop-
ment collaborations with our customers,’
says Norbert Westerholt, head of Evonik’s
Baby Care Business Line.
The new laboratory was designed for
highly efficient working and testing
procedures and will serve hygiene as well
as technical superabsorbent
applications. The enlarged laboratory
allows for the implementation of the
newest test methods, which will further
strengthen product knowledge and
target-oriented innovation efforts. It is
equipped for the evaluation of super-
absorbent polymers and hygiene articles,
e.g. the new EDANA mannequin test for
incontinence articles. For the first time,
this test allows the application of
realistic in-use conditions to the
standardised lab evaluation of a broad
variety of incontinence items. In
addition, the new laboratory is open to
customers for training and testing
sessions. ‘As a global leader in
superabsorbent polymers, Evonik will
continue to provide outstanding support
and service to customers to facilitate
their innovations,’ notes Westerholt.
Topsoe partners
with Unifrax for
improved ceramic
catalytic filters
Unifrax, US based manufacturer of
speciality fibre products, and Haldor
Topsoe A/S, a world leader in catalysis
and related process technologies
headquartered in Denmark, recently
announced the signing of a partnership
agreement. The partnership marks the
beginning of a joint global effor t by the
two parties to commercialise an
innovative new line of catalytic filter
candles. This new product family will be
marketed as TopFrax filters and was
developed for catalytic hot gas filtration
in the industrial market.
The partnership combines the
expertise and knowhow of Topsoe's
leading position within catalysis and
Unifrax' strengths within fibre filter

manufacturing and filtration. The TopFrax
technology offers improved catalytic
filters to the global market, providing
high quality, well-engineered products
and technical support to customers in a
broad range of industries such as glass,
cement, bio mass, waste incineration
and metal production.
Global regulations have reduced the
permissible levels of particulate and
hazardous gas emissions, making
compliance costly and requiring
companies to make substantial
investments in pollution control
technologies. Haldor Topsoe and Unifrax
have worked closely to develop a unique
technology that addresses the problems
related to industrial emissions. TopFrax
catalytic filter candle is designed to
remove NOx and particulate matter, and
will also be launched in a version capable
of removing VOC, CO and dioxin that are
generated in many industrial processes.
‘The TopFrax product line is the first
in the world to introduce a combined
process for removal of NOx, VOC, CO,
dioxin and particulate matter enabling
customers to meet increasingly stringent
regulations in a cost effective way. The
partnership offers exciting possibilities for
both parties, not only in terms marketing the
new catalytic candle filters, but also in
developing other products together in the
future,' says Bjerne S. Clausen, CEO of
Haldor Topsoe A/S.
David E Brooks, Unifrax President &
CEO comments: ‘Unifrax is proud to
partner with Haldor Topsoe, a world
leader in developing catalysts to solve a
range of emission control problems. The
commercialisation of TopFrax filter
candles is in alignment with our company
mission of helping customers reduce
emissions and save energy. The
partnership will help both companies better
serve the customer by providing access to
a complete hot gas filter portfolio and
extensive product support worldwide.'
Swiss Textile
Machinery Group
elects new
president
The Swiss Textile Machinery group
within Swissmem elected a new
president during their meeting held in
end of May. After the resignation of
Peter Gnägi, who has been member
of the board since 2002 and
president since 2013, the members
of the group elected Ernesto Maurer
as his successor. The connoisseur of
the international textile machinery
industry has held various management
positions in leading companies over
the last years. Today, he is CEO of
SSM Schaerer Schweiter Mettler AG
in Horgen. The new board consists of
Ernesto Maurer, vice president Urban
Germann (Stäubli Sargans AG) and
Peter Tolksdorf presented ‘Advanced dyeing processes’
at the Symposium
the new board members Norbert
Klapper (Rieter AG), Robert Reimann
(Jakob Müller AG) and Ralph von Arx
(Retech AG).
This year, the Swiss Textile Machi-
nery Group will celebrate its 75th
anniversary. Since 1940, the group
has supported its member companies;
over the years, many of them gained
The board of the Swiss textile machinery group (from left): Robert Reimann, Ernesto
Maurer, Norbert Klapper, Urban Germann, Ralph von Arx
BUSINESSNEWS
international market leadership. The
planned activities for this year include
participation in ITMA show in
Milan. In addition workshops on
‘Innovation' and ‘Additive
Manufacturing' will be organised.
Monforts at ‘German
Technology Meets
Iranian Textile and
Carpet’ conference
Monforts Textilmaschinen, a leading
textile machinery manufacturer, has
participated in the
two day symposium
called German
Technology Meets
Iranian Textile and
Carpet that took
place in Tehran
recently.
Described as a
landmark event for
the Iranian textile and
carpet related industries, the
conference proved highly successful
with more than 250 delegates attending
each of two technical papers presented
by Monforts specialists.
The company’s guest speakers
Peter Tolksdor f, Chief Technologist,
and Wolfgang Poos, Regional Sales
Manager, presented their papers to
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 17
BUSINESSNEWS
Teijin’s R&D centre accredited as
a testing laboratory
Teijin, a technology-driven group,
has announced that its Teijin
Composites Innovation Center (TCIC)
has obtained ISO/IEC 17025
accreditation as a testing laboratory,
thereby strengthening its role as the
research and development base for
Sereebo, Teijin’s proprietary techno-
logy for mass producing carbon fibre
reinforced thermoplastic (CFRTP).
Teijin becomes the first
manufacturer of carbon fibre
composite materials to obtain ISO/IEC
17025 accreditation, the company
textile and carpet manufacturers
among exper ts from 35 well-known
German companies.
Peter Tolksdor f gave a
presentation titled Advanced dyeing
processes, whilst Wolfgang Poos’
presentation was focused on Energy
saving finishing methods.
All experts presented practice-
oriented technology topics along the
entire textile chain in two parallel
sessions, covering various topics,
including: spinning (natural and man-
made fibre), twisting, circular and
flat knitting, warp knitting, weaving,
nonwoven, finishing and dyeing
machiner y, measurement and control
equipment and garment technology.
Important cross-topics like energy
and material efficiency, life cycle costs
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 18
reports. TCIC will now offer its CFRTP
technology for production and evalua-
tion on a one-stop basis to promote the
accelerating application of Sereebo.
Third-party accreditation based on
international standards verifies the
competency of the TCIC’s testing
operations to evaluate
the physical properties
of its own CFRTP
products and to inspect
externally manufactured
CFRP products as a
third-party organisation.
Teijin offers advanced
solutions in the areas of
sustainable trans-
portation, information
and electronics, safety
and protection,
environment and energy,
and healthcare.
Its main fields of
operation are high-
per formance fibres such
as aramid, carbon fibres and
composites, healthcare, films, resin
and plastic processing, polyester
fibres, products converting and IT.
The group has some 150 companies
and around 16,000 employees spread
out over 20 countries.
and interactive discussions also
featured in the programme.
The event, organised by VDMA
German Textile Machinery Association
and co-organised by German-Iranian
Chamber of Industry and
Commerce (AHK), was
expected to be attended by
around 800 decision makers
each day.
Monforts is a leader
among the manufacturers
and exporters of textile
machines since 1884.
Innumerable patents and
pioneering achievements in
textile finishing have marked the
company’s way to today’s leading
position in the market.
The manufacturer’s pioneering
spirit is challenged and respected by
industry leaders in continuous dyeing
and textile finishing.
Waste-to-chemicals
consortium boosted
by new partners
A major Dutch initiative designed to
investigate how waste can be used as a
raw material to produce chemicals has
more than doubled in size since being
launched late last year.
Initially formed by AkzoNobel,
Canadian company Enerkem and four
regional partners, the collaboration has
since attracted eight more commercial
parties.
The aim is to use Enerkem's
technology to manufacture synthesis
gas from domestic and other waste and
use it as a feedstock for making
products such as methanol and
ammonia.
The public-private partnership will
study the options for setting up
Europe's first plant, either in Rotterdam
or Delfzijl. The partners will publish the
results of the study later this year.
‘We welcome all the new partners in
our quest to use waste as a raw material
for chemicals,' said Peter
Nieuwenhuizen, research director of
AkzoNobel Speciality Chemicals. ‘Both
the size and diversity of this partnership
are unique in the Netherlands. Together,
 BUSINESSNEWS

we form a strong group of companies Biomedical

whose capabilities combine to provide all
we will need to convert this promising
technology into practical reality.'
The latest commercial organisations
to join the partnership are Van
Gansewinkel (founder of the Circularity
Center), EEW Energy from Waste,
BioMCN, Air Liquide, Veolia, Visser &
Smit Hanab, the Port of Rotterdam
Authority and DNV GL. They join
founding partners AkzoNobel, Enerkem,
the Investment and Development
Company for the Northern Netherlands
(NOM), Groningen Seaports, Clean Tech
Delta and the South Holland develop-
ment company InnovationQuarter.
Together, the 14 partners have all
the expertise needed to make the
initiative a success, from waste
collection to conversion to industrial
plants and sales. The primary aim is to
use Enerkem's proven conversion
process to turn domestic and other
waste into useful products.
Medical nonwovens
market to reach
textiles with
customised
structure, however,
are also increasingly
replacing traditional
rigid materials like
metals in medical
devices - providing
life saving grafts,
heart valves, spinal
stabilisation and
ar tificial ligaments,
to name but four
applications that Brückner service team at Chinaplas thanks all visitors
would have been
inconceivable just a few years ago. But Brückner not only presented
Absorbable and permanent biocom- high-end solutions; essential
patible textile can be engineered to technological advancements have been
provide major benefits such as strength recently proved by successful projects
and flexibility, ease-of-use surgeons and in China and results were intensely
improved patient outcomes. discussed at the booth including:
Various research projects indicate Brückner's unique LISIM technology for
that there is the potential for the manufacture of highest quality
nonwovens to make a significant further simultaneously oriented BOPA films;
contribution to the medical sector. lines to produce multi-layer barrier films
for added-value packaging and
Chinaplas 2015: protection films; stretching lines for

US$ 2 bn by 2018
The established medical nonwovens
market was worth over US$ 1.6 billion
in 2013 and will reach US$ 2 billion in
2018, with increased demand for wound
care, adult incontinences and
healthcare wipes all leading the growth.
Brückner hits the
market needs again
Visitors from all over the world were
impressed by recently proved successful
Brückner projects. When planning the
Chinaplas appearance some months ago,
Brückner Maschinenbau mainly
concentrated on two
topics: the latest
developments helping
Chinese and
international film
producers to enter into
high quality technical
film areas and achiev-
ing the utmost produc-
tivity for their film
production lines. Both
topics turned out to be
a direct hit - numerous
visitors of the Brückner
booth from China,
Taiwan, Japan, Korea,
ASEAN countries,
India, Pakistan, Iran
and many other
countries asked
exactly for these.
high end optical applications such as
diffusion or prism films; Brückner's
patented EVAPORE process and proven
components for the so called wet
process for an efficient production of
battery separator films etc.
Many meetings focused on reduced
energy consumption and optimised raw
material usage within the film produc-
tion. Brückner Maschinenbau's solutions
met the visitors' expectations and fully
matched the traditional Chinaplas key
aspect of ‘green technologies'. Also in
line with the growing demand for
environmental protection, Brückner
Servtec, the service affiliate, presented
various energy saving technologies for
upgrading existing film stretching lines.
All Brückner Group members were
absolutely overwhelmed by the amount
of visitors, their internationality and the
high quality of the conversations.
BASF expands
production capacity
for Paliocrom
BASF will expand its capacity for the
production of Paliocrom effect

Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 21

BUSINESSNEWS
Bayer MS to be
called Covestro
Bayer has announced that the
new name of its MaterialScience
business will be Covestro. It will be
effective on September 1, 2015.
Bayer intends to float Covestro on
the stock market by mid-2016 at
the latest. The plan for Bayer
MaterialScience to become a
separate company was announced
in September 2014.
The name Covestro is made from
a combination of words that reflect
the identity of the new company. The
letters C and O come from
collaboration, while VEST signifies
that the company is well invested in
state-of-the-ar t manufacturing
facilities. The final letters, STRO,
show the company is strong. It is
strong in innovation, strong in the
market and with a strong workforce.
‘Covestro represents a bold new
direction and bright future for an
innovation-driven polymers
company,' said Patrick Thomas,
CEO of Bayer MaterialScience and
CEO designate of Covestro. ‘We are
a company that is underpinned by
strong and experienced management
with a proven track record of
excellence and full commitment to
value creation. We have loyal and
dedicated employees with whom we
are confident we can build our future
success,' he added. The name is
part of Covestro's corporate identity,
which includes a distinctive new and
colour ful, vibrant brand.
Thomas said that being
separate would give the new
company greater flexibility to
independently pursue its business
goals. ‘The platforms for this will
include our leading market
positions, favorable industry
dynamics, our state-of-the-art asset
base with leading process
technology, a portfolio including a
high-value speciality business as
well as an outstanding team of
highly skilled and motivated
employees,' he said.
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 22
pigments by more than 20% by 2017 in
Ludwigshafen, Germany. The investment
will enable the company to
accommodate for the growing demand
of its aluminum-based effect pigments
in the automotive coatings sector. With
an investment of approximately 10
million, BASF aims to strengthen its
position in this fast-growing market.
‘Our high-end Paliocrom effect
pigments have gained much popularity in
the automotive market and our orange,
red and gold colours create
a broad range of styling
options for coatings
producers,' said Alexander
Haunschild, senior vice
president, Pigments and
Resins, Europe. The
expansion of the Paliocrom
production is being made
in view of the recent colour
trends and the projected
rising demand. BASF
expects the Paliocrom
product group to grow
significantly above the
general pigment market for
automotive coatings.
Paliocrom features
gold, orange and new red
pigments. BASF also launched Paliocrom
Sparkling Red as an exclusive bluish red
product in the market. Paliocrom's
uniqueness comes from high chroma,
metallic lustre and hiding power, and it is
suitable for high-quality automotive
finishes and industrial paints.
INDIAN
First international
GOTS conference
highly successful
The flagship event by GOTS in
Mumbai, India on 22nd May, 2015 was
attended by more than 250 delegates
from 12 countries including
international brands and retailers, Indian
brands and exporters from the Indian
subcontinent, buying agents,
manufacturers of textiles and additives
(dyes, chemicals, enzymes etc),
certification bodies, testing
laboratories, trade associations, NGOs,
academics, media, consultants etc. The
theme of the conference was Strong
Partnerships for Success. The
congregation initiated new partnerships
and valuable discussions. India is the
country with the highest number of
GOTS certified facilities worldwide.
Today, out of the more than 3,600
facilities GOTS certified worldwide,
more than 1,300 are in this country.
In the inaugural session, Herbert
Ladwig, GOTS’ Managing Director,
The GOTS team
expressed his happiness on the DGFT
notification in first week of May 2015
explicitly excluding organic textiles from
the new procedures for expor t of
organic product and also appreciated
DGFT and Ministry of Commerce, Govt
of India, for this industry friendly move.
Sharing his dream of a New Concept of
Quality, he said, ‘If ecological
civilisation and thus sustainable
production has to become mainstream,
a fundamental change of the concept of
good product quality is necessary. The
perception of good quality must be
transformed into a holistic one, where a
product not produced in a sustainable
way, is considered bad quality even if it
is fashionable, fitting, and colourful. Its
sustainable production must become
part of the product identity’.
In his keynote address, conference
coordinator Sumit Gupta spoke about the
growth of GOTS’ in India and Bangla-
desh. Speaking about the theme of the
conference, he opined that sustainability
is a complex concept and therefore the

whole supply chain has to work in a
strong partnership to achieve this goal.
Trust and long term commitment is
required from both buyers and suppliers.
Gupta concluded his address by saying
that only together ‘we are strong’.
Session 1 ‘Stor ytelling: Brands' and
Retailers' Business Case for
Sustainability through GOTS’ was
moderated by Claudia Kersten, GOTS
Marketing Director. In her input
presentation, she discussed ‘The
Business Case for Sustainability' and
linked sustainability based textile
Herbert Ladwig, GOTS’ Managing Director,
addressing the gathering
standards to competitive strategies
using the example of GOTS. She
stressed that brands should label GOTS
on their products instead of using self-
claims. Dr Ulrich Hofmann, Brands
Fashion GmbH, Germany, speaking
about the expectations from GOTS,
said that there should be improved
traceability of supply chain starting with
organic cotton farming and the need to
increase organic cotton supply.
Session 2 was titled ‘Going for
GOTS’ and was moderated by Marcus
Bruegel, GOTS Technical Director. Dr
Binay Kumar Choudhury, General
Manager, Control Union Inspections and
Certifications India Pvt Ltd and Member
of GOTS Certifiers' Council, gave the
first presentation on ‘Audit Checklist and
Methods: Ecological and Social
Compliance'. He spoke about how an
audit checklist is prepared and methods
of auditing, the challenges and
opportunities that auditing faces today
and the need for ecological and social
auditing. Rahul Bhajekar, Technical
Committee, GOTS and General Manager,
Hermes Eco Laboratories, India next
spoke about ‘Risk Management in
Chemical Use and Testing'. He gave
details about technical requirements in
GOTS, testing procedures, chemical
parameters considered in assessment
and testing of dyes and chemicals.
Marcus Bruegel made a presentation on
‘Labelling Organic Textiles - Legal
Conditions and GOTS Requirements'. He
gave details about the legal basis
existing in the EU, USA and in India on
the labelling of ‘organic fibres and
textiles'. He then spoke about the
applicable certifications to enable
‘organic product’ claims for textiles.
Session 3 was a panel discussion
on 'Sustainability Standards: National or
International - The Role of International
Voluntary Sustainability Standards in
Relation to National Statutory
Compulsory Sustainability Standards'.
This panel was moderated by Arvind
Sinha, Business Advisors Group, India.
The participating panel members were
Mathieu Lamolle, International Trade
Centre (ITC), Switzerland (via video
message presentation); Herbert Ladwig,
GOTS, Germany; Prabha Nagarajan,
Textile Exchange, India; and Siddhartha
Rajagopal, Cotton Textiles Export
Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), India.
The final Session 4 was a panel
discussion on ‘Supply Chain: Challenges
and Opportunities with GOTS'. Session
moderator Ullhas Nimkar, NimkarTek
Technical Services Pvt Ltd, drove the
discussions forward with his insightful
questions for the panelists, coming from
all areas of the textile chain including
laboratory and certifiers. The panelists
were Amit Shah, Spectrum International
Pvt Ltd, India (representing farming and
ginning); A Narayanasamy, Armstrong
Spinning Mills (P) Ltd, India (spinning,
weaving and knitting);
Dr Dileep Wakankar,
Archroma India Pvt Ltd,
India (dyes and
chemicals); G P Kanchi,
Mandhana Industries Pvt
Ltd, India (wet
processing); Dr B D
Ginde, Texan Labo-
ratories Pvt Ltd, India
(laboratory/ testing);
Ehsanul Karim Kaiser,
Esquire Group (Textile
Division), Bangladesh
BUSINESSNEWS
(garmenting); and Vincent Duret,
Ecocert Greenlife SAS, France
(certification body).
Nimkar stressed that sustainability
is now a necessity and also enlightened
about benefits for textile industry to
change over from conventional to
organic. All three pillars of sustainability,
namely economic, social and
environmental were discussed at length.
Each panelist shared his views on price
premium of sustainable textiles from his
field. Child labour, worker safety, training
and awareness were discussed, with
focus on enhanced fire safety guidelines
in GOTS Version 4.0 as well as issues
related to toxicity and harmful
substances in supply chain, especially in
dyes and chemicals. Again, it became
very clear that sustainability is a
necessity, especially to change over from
conventional to organic. Furthermore,
the price premium of sustainable textiles
can hardly be argued away, but the
emphasis must be on the additional
value and benefit for sellers and buyers.
Clariant presents
pioneering
technologies for air
pollution control
Clariant, a world leader in speciality
chemicals, showcased Genosorb, its
state-of-the-art technology for gas
treatment at ChemProTech India 2015.
This technology adds value to customers
by providing sustainable solvent recovery
and effectively counter air pollution.
Clariant has developed the Genosorb
range of absorption liquids as tailor-
made solutions for many specific waste
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 23
BUSINESSNEWS
Aditya Birla group
restructures retail
business
The Aditya Birla Group has
restructured its retail business by
carving out the apparel-making
Madura Fashion and Lifestyle
division from Aditya Birla Nuvo
(ABNL) and merging it with
Pantaloon Fashion and Retail. This
will create the country's largest
branded apparel company by sales
and number of stores.
Pantaloon, which will be
renamed to Aditya Birla Fashion &
Retail, will have a combined turnover
of around 5,290 crores with an
operating profit of 493 crores.
Madura, which houses brands
such as Van Heusen, Louis Philippe
and Allen Solly, had sales of
3,226 crores, while department
chain arm Pantaloon reported a
revenue of 1,661 crores in the
year ended March 2014. However,
unlike Madura, which drove a
significant chunk of the profit for
its parent ABNL, Pantaloon has
been in the red with a net loss of
187 crores last fiscal. ABNL
owns 73% of Pantaloon.
gas problems in manufacturing units.
This technology gathers centerstage as
many domestic as well as international
players in the chemical, petrochemical,
pharmaceutical, and oil & gas industries
are supporting the Make In India
campaign, thereby announcing plans to
ramp up production.
Dr Deepak Parikh, Region President -
India, Middle & Africa, Clariant, said,
‘We are happy to offer this value
proposition to our customers with long
term solutions for controlling air
pollution. We are committed towards
unified partnership with our customers
to provide sustainable value-creation.
Clariant in India is accelerating change
and we will continue to deliver on our
hyper growth strategy in 2015, fulfilling
our commitments to all our
stakeholders, as the Indian market stays
at the core of Clariant's global focus.'
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 24
R Kumaresan, Head - Industrial and
Consumer Specialties, Clariant in India
said, ‘Clariant staying true to its core
values is committed to innovation and
sustainability. We have launched this
pioneering technology to empower the
Indian industry to tackle challenges
pertaining to air pollution. We are also
closely working with several State
Pollution Control Boards to pilot this
technology in various industrial clusters.
We believe in enabling our customers to
be future-ready.'
Genosorb technology uses
polyethylene glycol dialkyl ethers, which
have proved successful for scrubbing
waste air and waste gas streams
containing a variety of organic
substances and acid gases. Also, this
is a continuous process based on
absorption technology, in contrast to
adsorption, which requires a number of
adsorption beds and switching of
valves. Genosorb technology is a
resource recycling technology, where
the VOC is recovered and can be
recycled and reused. Thus, compared to
thermal oxidation, there is considerable
return on capital.
TAI seminar on
‘Challenges &
Opportunities in
Textile Processing’
The Textile Association (India),
Mumbai Unit organised a Seminar on
‘Challenges & Opportunities in Textile
Processing - A Way Forward’ in Thane
on May 21, 2015. The chief guest was
Mr R R Gorakhia, Director, Textiles
Committee, Ministr y of Textiles, Govt of
India. Mr S M Khire, Director -
Operations, Welspun Syntex Ltd, was
the guest of honour.
Mr V C Gupte, Chairman, TAI,
Mumbai Unit, welcomed the guests and
delegates.
Mr Arun K Narkar, Jt Hon Secretary,
TAI, Mumbai Unit and Convenor of the
seminar said that this seminar was
organised in Thane so that the textile
processing clusters around the city of
Mumbai will be benefited. The focus of
the seminar was mainly on Green
Environment and Green Technology.
Mr S M Khire, in his address, said
that there are many challenges in the
field of processing and these challenges
create opportunities to overcome
various issues.
Mr R R Gorakhia, in his inaugural
address emphasised on ‘Zero effect
and Zero defect’ concept initiated by
Government on Make in India. He also
discussed about the conservation of
water, steam, electrical energy, etc in
textile processing.
The inaugural function was followed
by paper presentation in which 5 papers
were presented by eminent speakers:
Mr Elliyas Mohammed, Business
Development Manager (Disperse Dyes),
and Mr Subrato Modak, Business
Development Manager (Reactive Dyes)
Colourtex Industries Pvt Ltd, jointly
presented the paper on ‘Development in
Dyes at Colourtex to meet changing
customer demands’.

Dr Ashok Athalye, General Manager
- Technical Service, Atul Ltd, expressed
his views on ‘Processing of High quality
Yarn dyed Shirtings’.
Mr S M Khire, Director - Operations,
Welspun Syntex Ltd, expressed his
views on ‘Zero Liquid Discharge
System’. He discussed the core of Zero
Discharge System developed by
Welspun Syntex Ltd as a success story.
Mr Vishwanath S Shastri, Deputy
General Manager, A.T.E Enterprises
Pvt Ltd, presented the paper on
‘Effective technology in managing
Textile Effluents.
Dr Binay Kumar Choudhury, General
Manager, Control Union Certifications
India Pvt. Ltd. discussed the
importance of ‘Sustainable Certification
in Textile Processing for Value Addition’.
The paper presentations were
followed by panel discussion moderated
by Dr G S Nadiger, Textile and
Management Consultant. The panel
comprised of Mr Prabodh Patel, textile
consultant; Mr Prasad Pant, CEO,
NimkarTek Technical Ser vices Pvt Ltd;
and Mr Mahesh Sharma, M-Tex Textile
Processing and environment consultant.
Dr Nadiger explained various initiatives
taken by industry and govt. in regard to
common effluent treatment plants for
the last 20 years. He said the govt. has
given utmost priority for pollution
related issues alongwith technology
upgration and product diversification.
Mr Prabodh Patel discussed the
importance of laborator y functioning to
get the consistent results in bulk
processing. Mr Pant expressed his
views to restrict the use of hazardous
chemicals in the processing and why
process and product chemicals
knowledge is becoming a critical issue
for business development. The
hazardous nature and its effect should
not be associated with international
market as it affects environment and
mankind and process optimisation to
target desired quality. Mr Mahesh
Sharma emphasised on cleaner
production and stressed upon on
resource conservation. The cleaner
production helps to reduce volume and
load of effluent and emission. The
delegates raised various questions
which were answered by the panel.
The seminar was grand success and
was attended by over 150 participants.
A.T.E. ties up with
HMSU Rollers
A.T.E., an established single
window solution provider for textile
machinery and accessories, has tied
up with HMSU Rollers (India) Private
Limited, Ahmedabad, to offer superior
quality rubber compounds for the
Indian textile industry.
The essential requirements of roller
coverings are their chemical resistance
and the preciseness of both the
formulation of the applied compound and
also the rollers' finishing. This is
particularly so in speciality applications
like textile wet and dry finishing and
sizing. Furthermore, a covering's
durability is a key element for a
customer so as to increase the cost-
effectiveness. HMSU offers soft
polyurethane rollers up to 3 m and rubber
coverings up to 12 m in length and 1 m
in diameter. HMSU rollers provide
durable compounds for sizing and wet
and dry finishing of textiles, leading to
high chemical resistance; endurance to
high operating temperature; excellent
wear and cut resistance; and minimal
hardening and glazing.
HMSU Rollers (India) Private Limited
is an Indian company which was
founded in January 2012 as a joint
venture between two European
companies Hannecard NV and Mitex
GmbH together with two Indian
companies Shilp Gravures Ltd and
BUSINESSNEWS
Unimark International Pvt Ltd.
Hannecard and Mitex are market
leaders in the business of rubber,
polyurethane and composite rollers
catering to Europe and many countries
around the globe where they have their
own presence as well as joint ventures
and licensees. Hannecard and Mitex are
also partners with Gomplast, Spain, an
established name in textile for a range
of speciality rollers. Headquartered at
Ahmedabad, HMSU
has state-of-the-art
manufacturing and
testing facilities.
The outstanding
quality of products
and services from
HMSU are recognised
by the leading end
users and OEMs.
Customers can now
look forward to having
the best quality
rollers and
compounds made to
European standards
locally. With A.T.E.,
customers can be assured of fast and
reliable solutions including services for
all their processing needs.
Birla Cellulose wins
the Frost & Sullivan
award
Sustainability means changing the
way we think about how we use our
resources and make small changes that
have a big impact on nature and
community. To this cause and with a
mission ‘to assist the adoption of green
manufacturing practices across Indian
manufacturing companies', Frost &
Sullivan held its 2015 Edition of ‘India
Sustainability Summit' on 22nd May,
2015 at Hyatt Regency, Mumbai.
The summit started with a full day of
presentations from eminent speakers of
across different businesses who spoke
about their companies initiatives and
takes on sustainability. This was
followed by an exciting evening of awards
where Birla Cellulose was awarded the
‘Challengers Award - Large Business' in
the 2015 Green Manufacturing
Excellence Awards category.
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 27
BUSINESSNEWS
Based on the assessments
conducted at Birla Cellulose's Kharach
site and subsequently whetted by the
Executive Committee of Frost &
Sullivan's Green Manufacturing
Excellence Awards 2015, Birla
Cellulose was awarded ‘Challengers
Award - Large Business’. Mr H K
Agar wal (COO for Pulp & Fibre business
and Mr Vinay Bhalerao (Unit Head of
Kharach unit) were on the stage to be
felicitated with this prestigious award
for Birla Cellulosic.
Mr Gowtham S of Frost & Sullivan
welcomed the guests and explained the
Assessment Model and Methodology of
GMEA 2015. He explained that the
assessment model is realigned within
four major areas and 13 parameters with
each having a weightage of 100 points,
totaling to 1300 points. The model also
took into consideration global
sustainability reporting frameworks such
Steps to revive handloom sector
Textiles Ministry said that steps
are underway to revive handlooms and
a panel has also been deliberated on
the issue, including aggressive
marketing, design innovations and
popularising handlooms among youth
to increase the income of weavers.
‘A discussion on revival of
handloom, with particular focus on
increasing earning of handloom
weavers, was held,’ the Ministr y said.
The panel discussed the need to
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 28
as the UN Global Compact. The
assessment for Birla Cellulose that
concluded had its basis in their GMEA
Assessment Model that in turn derived
its inputs from the team's interaction
with unit's personnel, observations in
the plant and documents seen/provided
to them. The Kharach unit had a score of
823 for the entire facility. The
parameters on which the assessment
was done covered business strategy,
governance & ethics, waste & emission,
biodiversity, energy & water, materials,
human capital sustainability supply
chain, society, and customers.
This year's summit had an enhanced
coverage of all elements of sustainability
and focused on bringing and promoting
awareness among the manufacturing
units across industry verticals, through
best practices shared by thought leaders
who are establishing the ‘green' mindset
in their business as a means to
excite the younger generation about
handlooms, the diversity of marketing
opportunities available to promote
handlooms, the need for innovations in
design and weaving
processes, and the need for
customer education. The
meeting of the panel
comprising stakeholders
from government, industry
and civil society was
organised on May 17 by the
Office of Development
Commissioner (Hand-
looms), Ministr y of Textiles.
‘Youth, fashion and
technology hold the key to
the future of handloom,’
Textiles Secretar y Mr S K
Panda, stated at the meet.
He asserted that concern
for the handloom weavers
should guide all interventions of
state and non-state actors, and
outlined the context in which the
handloom weavers operate, and the
various policy interventions that the
government has been making in
order to improve the earning of
handloom weavers.
sustainable growth. Distinguished
leaders spoke on diverse topics on
sustainability. The keynote speakers from
Birla Cellulose were Mr Ajay Sardana (Vice
President & Head - Sustainability) and Mr
Rohan Batra (Special Projects) who spoke
about Birla Cellulose's initiatives
regarding its commitment towards a
sustainable company.
Mr Batra presented on ‘Product Life
Cycle Management'. He spoke about
the company's efforts regarding
sustainability. He said, ‘By 2017, pulp
and fibre business of Aditya Birla Group
endeavours to become the industry
leader for sustainable business
practices across its global operations
balancing economic growth with
environmental and societal interests’.
He further said that sustainable efforts
at Birla Cellulose are tested through
Life Cycle Assessment (LCA). LCA
assesses the environmental aspect
impact associated with product,
process or service. At Birla Cellulose, it
is conducted from cradle to factor y. He
proudly said ‘Birla Spunshades is the
most sustainable product in the market
that uses a unique dyeing technique. In
this dyeing technique, for 100 kg
fabric, water savings are upto 70 l/kg,
effluent load is reduced by 70%, power
is saved upto 3.5-4.0 kW and time is
saved by 6-8 hrs per batch, ultimately
reducing processing costs with better
production quality and profits’.
Mr Ajay Sardana presented on
‘Employee Sustainability Initiatives'. He
said, ‘Employees are a key driver in
driving Aditya Birla's sustainability
initiatives. Our company is an exciting
world of global opportunities for
professional growth with human care. The
way we do business is just as important as
the business itself’. He concluded by
saying, ‘For a sustainability program to be
credible and successful, the alignment,
engagement and enthusiasm of
employees - both managers and the
workforce - are essential’.
WB govt to attract
investment through
textile parks
The West Bengal government has
made an ambitious plan to attract

around 37,000 crores in the state
through 10 textiles clusters or parks.
West Bengal chief minister, Ms Mamata
Banerjee, said these proposed projects
were planned to fetch a total estimated
investment of more than 37,000
crores, which includes setting up of
parks. These will provide employment to
6 lakh people.
According to estimates, the deve-
lopment expenditure of these projects
will be about 9,159 crores and
investment in more than 40 units could
be 26,100 crores.
The state will provide land for five
units - one in Bankura, two in Kolkata,
one in South 24 Parganas, and one in
Howrah district.
The state expects 8,500 crore
investments in the government-assisted
Hosiery Park at Jagadishpur in Howrah
for knitwear and readymade garments to
be developed by West Bengal Hosiery
Association at a cost of 3,100 crores.
Regent Garment Park for knitwear
and apparel industries, proposed to be
developed by a private enterprise at
Barasat in North 24 Parganas, is also
projected to attract 8,500 crores in
setting up units. Its development cost
has been estimated at 2,900 crores.
Centre targets
US$ 47.5 bn textile
exports in 2015-16
The Government has set the textile
and clothing export target at US$ 47.5
billion for the current fiscal, aiming for
an almost 14% rise in outbound ship-
ments from the actual level of 2014-15.
The countr y’s overall textile and
garment exports grew roughly 5% in the
last fiscal to US$ 41.4 billion from a
year before, said a Textiles Ministry
official. Still, the exports fell shor t of
the official target of US$ 45 billion for
2014-15. Earlier, quick estimates had
showed that the exports during the
April-February period went up by nearly
2% from a year before.
With demand from China remaining
tepid and the government withdrawing
certain export incentives to the sector,
the shipment target for the current
fiscal would be hard to achieve,
especially in view of stiff competition
from countries like Vietnam,
Bangladesh and Pakistan.
For its part, the Textile Ministry has
sought a quick resolution of the India-
EU free trade agreement, which would
pave the way for duty-free access of
Indian textile and garment items to the
EU, which account for more than a third
of the countr y’s garment exports, the
senior ministr y official said.
Moreover, currently domestic textile
exporters are given a 2% export
incentive for outbound shipments only
to the US, the EU, Canada and Japan -
the markets where the appetite is far
more for garments than for textiles. The
industry wants certain incentives to
capture markets in countries such as
Bangladesh, Vietnam and Cambodia.
SDC EC seminar on
environmental solu-
tions and challenges
faced by colorant
industry
The Society of Dyers and Colourists
EC, India (SDC EC) organised its Colour
Event 04/2015 (half day seminar)
recently. The event was organised in
BUSINESSNEWS
partnership with Vapi Industries Asso-
ciation (VIA). The theme was Colour Index,
Environmental Solutions and Challenges
faced by the Colorant Industry.
The event was attended by almost
100 delegates which included students
and faculty members of UKA
Tarsadia University, professionals
from dyestuff and pigment
manufacturers and colouration
industry. In his opening address, Mr
Sharadchandra Thakar, President of
VIA, narrated the importance of clean
and green manufacturing of textile,
dyes and pigments. This was followed
by paper presentations.
Dr Mujeeb-Ur Rehman (GM
R&D, QA at Atul Industries)
Cleaner Production Initiative by
Chemical Industry. He provided
examples of various technologies
available for producing eco-friendly
dyes and how they can be adopted
to save resources.
Dr Graham Clayton (CEO, SDC)
and Mr Richard Straughan
(President, SDC) - Colour index. He
informed the audience that Colour
Index is now accessible online. It
is possible for dyes and pigment
manufacturers to register their
products online for free.
Mr Shivram Kerkar (GM Exports,
Colourtex Industries Pvt Ltd) - Challenges
for the Global Dyestuff Industry. He gave
a valuable insight on the various
challenges faced by dyestuff manufac-
turers around the world to meet legal and
retailer specifications, and stressed on
the need for implement zero discharge
as companies would produce only those
dyes whose effluent they can treat.
Mr Rajesh Doshi (Executive Director,
Vapi Waste & Effluent Management Co
Ltd) presented on various facilities
offered by his organisation and new
testing facilities added by them.
Mr R Nair (President, Garment
Training Centre, Umargaon) presented
on home laundering process and latest
innovations in the washing process.
Following dignitaries were facilitated
at the event: Mr Sharadchandra Thakar
(Hon President, VIA), Mr Richard
Straughan (Hon President, SDC), Ms
Elizabeth Straughan (Hon Trustee, SDC)
and Dr Graham Clayton (CEO, SDC). ¤
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 29
 NATURAL DYES
Application and
characterisation of
natural dyes
Sankar Roy Maulik
T
he concept of ‘eco-friendly textiles' is
gaining momentum in the present era of
ecological concern. With increasing
awareness of the environmental preservation
and control of pollution and health hazards
associated with synthesis, processing and use of
some of the synthetic azo dyestuffs based on
carcinogenic or allergic aryl amine1, there is a
worldwide interest for dyeing and printing of
textiles with the colorants extracted from
renewable natural resources. The application has
mainly been confined to cottage level, handloom
dyers, printers, craftsmen and artisan
communities. Today, western traders have
become more stringent about the health and
environmental impact of synthetic dyes in
manufacturing and show their interest for
products that use natural dyes. Textiles dyed
with natural colorants are mainly been exported
to USA, Japan, Germany and other European
countries. Natural dyes comprise those colorants
(dyes and pigments) that are obtained from
animal and vegetable resources without or with
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 30
mild chemical processing and generally
considered as safe and eco-friendly, whenever
the dyeing is carried out as per eco-standard
specifications. Availability of more than 500
dyes derived from vegetable origin is reported in
the literature2, although, report regarding the
availability of dyes from animal and mineral
resources is limited3. Though
natural dyes are obtained from
natural resources, some of the
sources and dyeing procedures
may not be safe with respect to
health hazards and environmental
issues2. Most of the natural
dyes, being non-substantive,
require metallic salts or
mordants for their fixation
purpose; two of the most
effective mordants, viz. copper
and chromium, are red listed
and limits are also imposed on
the discharge of heavy metals in
the effluents4,5. The advantages
and major attractions of natural dyes are6-8: (i)
they are obtained from renewable resources; (ii)
they pose no health hazards; (iii) their extraction
involves mild chemical reactions; (iv) they pose
no disposal
problem; and (v)
they are harmonised Natural dyes are emerging
with nature. Apart globally because of the growing
from these
consumer awareness about
advantages, use of
natural dye is a environmental conservation and
labour intensive pollution control
process; thereby, it
provides job opportunity for all those engaged in
cultivation, extraction and textile application;
locally available plants and vegetable resources

can also be utilised as natural
colorants. However, the inherent
drawbacks5-7 of the natural dyes and
its application are their (i) ability to
dye chiefly natural fibres; (ii) poor
availability; (iii) poor colour yield; (iv)
complexity of dyeing process; (v)
reproducibility of shade; (vi) inadequate
degree of fixation; (vii) inadequate
fastness properties; and (viii) use of
salts of red listed transition metals
such as copper, cobalt and
chromium4,5. Natural dyes are being
mainly used by designers, hobby
groups, traditional dyers and printers,
non-government organisation,
museums, academic and research
institutions, small scale industries etc.
Designers have very effectively utilised
the non-reproducibility and non-
uniformity of shades to make their
creation a unique piece.
Classification
Natural dyes were initially
classified into two groups, such as
substantive and adjective dyes.
Substantive dyes were those which
appear to have affinity for the
substrate; and adjective dyes were
those colouration with which could be
accomplished only in presence of one
or any two from the following: metal
salts, tannins or tannic acid and oil.
Such compounds that create affinity
of natural dye for the fibre are known
as mordants. Among the metal and
its oxides, potassium dichromate,
stannous chloride, stannic chloride,
ferrous sulphate, cupric sulphate and
alum are commonly used as
mordants. Crushed leaves of sumach
and powdered myrobolan containing
tannin and tannic acid are also
employed as mordants. Natural oils
containing fatty acids such as
palmitic, stearic, oleic, etc and also
sulphonated castor oil are used for
the purpose9.
Natural dyes cover a wide range of
chemical classes including indigoid,
anthraquinone, alpha-naphthoquinone,
flavones, flavonols, dihydropyrans,
anthocyanidins, carotenoids etc6,9. In
the recent past, the dyes were
classified mostly depending on their
application method on different
substrates as direct, acid, basic, vat
and disperse classes of dyes in a
similar manner in which the synthetic
dyes are classified9-11.
Application of
natural dye
Extraction with water
Natural dyes are available in crude,
crushed, water extracted powder and
paste form. In case of crude form, the
vegetable matters are dried in absence
of direct sunlight for about 24 hr,
followed by crushing in a mechanical
crusher (Fig 1). Aqueous solution of
Fig 1 : Mechanical crusher
Fig 2 : Thermostat control beaker
dyeing machine
vegetable dyes is prepared by adding
specified quantities of this crushed
vegetable matter (bark, flower, root,
trunk, fruit etc) to fixed volume of
water. The mixture is stirred, heated
and kept at boiling point for 60 min in a
thermostat control beaker dyeing
machine (Fig 2), allowed to stand for
another 15 min and finally filtered
NATURAL DYES
through nylon bolting cloth having 140-
200 mesh size in order to separate
aqueous solution of colouring
components present in the vegetable
matters and roughages. The evaporated
water is replaced by fresh water so that
the pre-established quantity of solution
is preserved and used for dyeing and
printing purpose after diluting it to the
specified level, if required.
But, in case of water extracted
powder form and paste form, this
extraction procedure is not required
and the extraction time is saved. In
those cases, a fixed quantity of dye
is dissolved in fixed volume of water
and this aqueous solution is directly
used for the dyeing and printing
purposes.
Extraction with organic
solvents
Extraction with organic solvents is
carried out for the purpose of elimin-
ating the degradation effects caused at
high temperature boiling. In this case,
the crushed vegetable matters are
taken in a cage of the wrapped filter
paper and subjected to extraction in
Soxhlet apparatus using organic
solvents, viz. methanol, ethanol, hexane
etc, at their respective boiling tempera-
ture for 20 - 24 hr (10 - 12 cycles of 2
hr duration). After this, the solvent is
evaporated and the dye is crystallised
from solution, dried and stored.
Desizing, scouring and
bleaching
In order to remove size and other
natural and added impurities from the
loom state cotton fabric, the latter is
desized, scoured and bleached prior to
dyeing and printing in the manner as
described below:
Desizing of grey cotton fabric is
performed using hydrochloric acid
solution (4 ml/l) at a temperature of
40oC for 2 hr at a material to liquor
ratio of 1:20 (w/v). The desized cloth is
washed thoroughly using hot water,
followed by a cold wash prior to the
conventional process of combined
scouring and bleaching.
Combined scouring and bleaching
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 33
NATURAL DYES
treatment of the desized cotton fabric
is performed by conventional tub
method. In this method, a solution is
prepared with sodium hydroxide (3%),
sodium carbonate (2%), anionic
detergent (0.5%), Turkey Red oil (1%)
and sodium meta-silicate (2%); the
liquor is heated upto a temperature of
60oC. At this temperature, the desized
fabric is immersed into the solution and
boiled for another 2 hr. At the time of
boiling, hydrogen peroxide solution (2%)
is added in two installments and the
process is further continued for another
1 hr. The scoured and bleached fabric is
then washed thoroughly with hot water,
followed by cold wash and neutralised
with dilute acetic acid, washed again
with cold water and finally dried in air.
Degumming and
bleaching
In order to remove silk gum, i.e.
sericin from the loom state silk fabric,
it is degummed at 90oC for 1.5 hr in an
aqueous solution containing olive oil
based soap (6 g/l) and sodium
carbonate (2 g/l) at a fabric-to-liquor
ratio of 1:20 (w/v). Bleaching of the
degummed silk samples is performed
using a solution containing hydrogen
peroxide (2 %), non-silicate stabiliser
(1%) and sodium carbonate (0.5%) at
80oC for 30 min, keeping a fabric-to-
liquor ratio of 1:20 (w/v). Degummed
and bleached fabric is washed
thereafter at 70oC for 10 min, cold
washed and finally dried.
Dyeing
In absence of mordant
Dyeing of cotton and silk with
aqueous solution of natural dyes is done
at a material to liquor ratio of 1:15 to
1:20. The dye bath temperature is kept
at 80-90oC and dyeing is carried out for
20-30 min. In case of silk, it is better
to add acetic acid in the dye bath to
maintain the pH at around 4-5 for
achieving better exhaustion. Soaping of
the dyed substrates is done employing
2 g/l non-ionic detergent at 50oC for 5
min. Finally the dyed samples are cold
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 34
washed and dried in absence of direct
sunlight.
In presence of mordant
Application of aqueous solution of
natural dyes is done in presence of
different inorganic salts or mordants
such as aluminium sulphate, copper
sulphate, stannous chloride and ferrous
sulphate, following three different
techniques, e.g. pre-, post- and
simultaneous. In the pre-salt application
(mordanting) method, the substrates
are first immersed in an aqueous
solution of inorganic salt (mordants) for
20 min at 70oC and then rinsed
thoroughly with water. The mordanted
samples are then dyed at 80-90oC for
30-45 min with the material-to-liquor
ratio of 1:20. For simultaneous salt
application (mordanting) method, the
samples are immersed in a bath
containing inorganic salt (mordant) and
dye solution. The dyeing temperature is
kept at 80-90oC and dyeing is carried
out for 30 - 45 min with the fabric-to-
liquor ratio of 1:20. In case of post-salt
application (mordanting) method, the
dyeing is carried out in the absence of
inorganic salt (mordants) at 80-90oC for
30-45 min and a cold wash is given
thereafter. Dyed samples are then
mordanted in a separate bath at 70oC
for 20 min along with the addition of
little amount of acetic acid to prevent
formation of metallic hydroxide, which
may give faulty dyeing. Soaping of all
the dyed samples is done employing 2
g/l non-ionic detergent at 50oC for 5
min. Finally, the dyed samples are cold
washed and dried.
In case of cotton, primary
mordanting with T R oil or harda
(myrobolan) can be done before final
mordanting with metal salts. But this
primary mordanting with harda affects
the tone of the final shades.
Printing
Traditionally, printing of textiles with
natural dyes is carried out in the
following ways:
z Fabric is dyed with aqueous solution
of natural dyes at a temperature of 80-
90oC for 30-45 min and dried in air,
followed by printing with different
inorganic salts of specified limit mixed
with gum Indulka for getting various
shades. Alternatively, the fabric is
treated with different inorganic salts at
70oC for 20 min and dried, followed by
printing with thickened solution of
natural dyes. In both the cases, after
printing, the fabric is kept for 3-4 days
or sometimes even for one month for
fixation of the dyes. Both these
processes are easy and simple and also
energy saving; cost of printing is also
low. But these processes have certain
limitations, e.g. difficult to achieve
clean white ground, poor colour
fastness to washing, print paste
becomes non-workable within 2-3 hr due
to coagulation reaction of inorganic
salts and gum etc.
z In alternate to the traditional
process, the printing can be done in the
manner as described below.
z Inorganic salts of specified dose
level are mixed with the aqueous
solution of natural dyes and kept for 15
- 20 min in order to form lake or
complex. Appropriate quantity of gum
indulka is then mixed with the help of
high speed stirrer to prepare the print
paste. Printing on bleached or dyed
ground is performed with the help of
block or screen and the fabric is dried
in air, followed by steaming at 102oC
for 30 min and washed thoroughly with
2 gm/l non-ionic detergent, followed by
cold wash and finally dried in air. This
modified process of printing has certain
advantages over the conventional
process, viz. i) easy and simple; ii)
washing fastness is better; iii)
multicoloured design is possible; iv)
print paste can be stored for 4-5 days;
and v) white ground can be achieved.
This process also has certain
drawbacks e.g. improper proportion of
metal salt and dye may cause tinting in
white ground.
Characterisation and
quality evaluation
Action of acid and alkali
Natural dyes show some changes in
colour in presence of strong alkali and

acid, but the effect is less prominent
when weak organic acid is used. The
change in hue may be attributed to the
ionisation of the dyes under alkaline
condition, since most of the dyes have
hydroxyl groups in its structure which
get ionised under alkaline conditions.
Studies in fluorescent
behaviour
Some of the natural dyes show
fluorescent behaviour in presence of
specific solvents. Fluorescence
measurement is carried out employing
Fluorescence spectrophotometer and
Perkin Elmer LS-55 after diluting the
solutions to the appropriate level.
Measurement of
wavelength of maximum
absorption (λmax)
Absorption spectroscopy provides a
useful tool for qualitative analysis of
coloured organic compounds. The
identification of a pure compound by
this method involves an empirical
comparison of the details of the
spectrum of the unknown with those of
pure compounds. The wavelengths of
maximum absorption (λmax) of solutions
of natural colorants at different
specified conditions can be measured
employing UV-visible absorbance
spectrophotometer e.g. U2000, UV-
visible absorbance spectrophotometer
of Hitachi, Japan etc after diluting the
solutions to appropriate levels.
Fourier transform
infrared spectroscopic
(FTIR) studies
FTIR of dye is recorded and analysed
for characterisation of molecular
structure. FTIR spectra of natural dyes
is recorded between 4000 to 300 cm-1
ranges following KBr pellet technique
using Perkin-Elmer FT-IR Spectrometer,
Spectrum RX1.
Determination of heavy
metal content
Natural dyes are eco-friendly, but
can also be contaminated during
harvesting and processing. Metal
content is determined by using Atomic
Absorption Spectra.
Estimation of percentage
exhaustion
The exhaustion (dye uptake) of
natural dyes from their aqueous
solutions to different specified
substrates during application is
estimated from the difference of initial
concentration of dye solution taken
from the dye bath at the star t of dyeing
and final concentration of dye solution
in the dye bath (including that of wash
liquor) after exhaustion. The difference
is expressed as percentage of initial
concentration in each case. The
concentration of dye in the solution is
obtained by recording the absorbance
value and computing its concentration
with the help of a previously
constructed calibration curve. The
calibration curve is constructed using
the absorbance value of the standard
solutions. Five standard solutions (such
as 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.04%, 0.06% and
0.08%) are prepared by dissolving 0.1 g
of dye in 100 ml of water, and
subsequently diluting the prepared
solution to different appropriate levels.
Measurement of kinetic
parameters
Time of half dyeing (t½)
The rate of dyeing is calculated and
expressed as time of half dyeing (t½).
Time of half dyeing is defined as the
time taken by the specific dye-fibre
system to accomplish 50% exhaustion
of the maximum exhaustible dye from
the dye bath under the condition of
dyeing employed12. Time of half dyeing
is calculated from the plot of amount of
dye exhausted in the fibre expressed as
g/kg at different inter vals of time
during dyeing ranging from 15 min to
24 hr or until the equilibrium dye uptake
is achieved. The exhaustion of dye in
the fibre (dye uptake) is estimated
colorimetrically employing UV-visible
spectrophotometer and following the
same procedure as used for estimation
of percentage exhaustion and described
NATURAL DYES
in detail earlier. For study of kinetic
parameter, pH of the dye bath is set
depending on the dye-fibre system e.g.
for wool/silk pH is maintained at 4.2 ±
0.2 using 0.2M sodium acetate and
0.2M acetic acid buffer system, and
the dyeing is carried out at a fibre-to-
liquor ratio of 1:1000 in a
thermostatically controlled open bath
beaker dyeing machine duly equipped
with appropriate shaking device.
Estimation of diffusion coefficient
Estimation of diffusion coefficient
is done in accordance with the
appropriate formula obtained by Hill12 as
given below:
where, Ct and Cα are the
concentrations of dye in the fibre in
g/kg at time ‘t' and at dyeing
equilibrium respectively. Equilibrium in
the dyeing process is indicated by the
maximum exhaustion value of the dye
attained for a specific dye-fibre system,
when the fibre is dyed with 1% dye
solution maintaining a fibre-to-liquor
ratio of 1:100012. Ct and Cα for
different natural dye-fibre systems as
specified is determined colorimetrically
using UV-visible absorbance
spectrophotometer following the
procedure as described earlier. Also, in
the above formula, ‘r' is the radius of
fibre and ‘D' is diffusion coefficient.
Estimation of
thermodynamic
parameters
Adsorption isotherm
The plots of adsorption isotherm for
different natural dye-fibre systems is
obtained by determining the
concentrations of dye in the fibre and
that in the residual bath when
equilibrium is obtained for dyeing of
fibre with different initial concentrations
of dye solutions at fibre-to-liquor ratio of
1:200 at two different specified temp-
erature e.g. 60oC and 90oC for 24 hr
following a standard procedure12 in a
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 35
NATURAL DYES
thermostatically controlled open bath
beaker dyeing machine duly equipped
with appropriate shaking device.
Concentrations of dye in the fibre after
24 hr are determined from the
difference in concentration of dye in the
respective dye bath after 24 hr of
dyeing and that at the star t of dyeing.
Concentrations of dye in the dye bath
are estimated colorimetrically using UV-
visible absorbance spectrophotometer.
Standard affinity
Standard affinity is defined as the
difference between the chemical
potential of the dye in the fibre and the
corresponding chemical potential of dye
in the dye bath at equilibrium, and is a
measure of the tendency of the dye to
move from the solution to the fibre
when it is in its standard state in each
phase12.
Standard affinities (-∆µ)T of different
dye - fibre systems at two specific
dyeing temperatures (60oC and 90oC)
are calculated in a selective manner
following two different formulae as
given below:
(i) In case of non-ionic dyes12:
(ii) In case of application of an
anionic dye following Langmuir
adsorption isotherm13:
(-∆µ)T = standard affinity at
temperature T.
[D]f = concentration of dye in fibre
(g/kg) when equilibrium is attained at
dyeing temperature T.
[D]s = concentration of dye in
residual dye bath (g/l) when equilibrium
is attained at dyeing temperature T.
V= effective volume of water in the
substrates in l/kg. The values for wool
and silk are 0.31 and 0.34 l/kg,
respectively14.
Heat of dyeing
The change in enthalpy of the
system during dyeing for adsorption of
dye on the substrate from an aqueous
dye bath, when equilibrium between the
process of adsorption and desorption of
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 36
dye is attained, is defined as the heat
of dyeing12. Heat of dyeing provides a
convenient description of the effect of
change in dyeing temperature on the
position of the dye bath - fibre
equilibrium. Heat of dyeing is calculated
using a standard formula as given
below12,15 :
T1 and T2 are the dyeing
temperatures; and ∆µ1 and ∆µ2 are the
standard affinity of natural dyes at
temperature T1 and T2, respectively.
Measurement of K/S
Dye receptivity in terms of K/S
(Kubelka Munk-function)16 is based on
measuring the reflectance of dyed
samples at the respective wavelength of
maximum absorption (λmax) in a
reflectance spectrophotometer and
converting the reflectance value to K/S
value as detailed below using the
appropriate formula and relevant
software attached to the computer
aided equipment following standard
procedures:
K = coefficient of absorption
S = coefficient of scattering
Rλ = reflectance of the substrate at
wavelength
C = concentration of dye.
Assessment of
colourfastness to
washing
Colourfastness to washing is
assessed in a launder-o-meter in
accordance with a method prescribed in
IS 105-C10 (2006) [superseding IS:
3361-1984 (ISO-II)]. 10 x 4 cm of dyed
sample is cut and sandwiched between
two adjacent fabrics and stitched from
all the four sides. Washing is done for
45 min at 50 ± 2oC at a material-to-
liquor ratio of 1:50 employing a non-
ionic detergent (5 g/l), washed in cold
tap water and finally dried in air. The
change in colour of the original dyed
sample and staining on adjacent fabrics
are rated between 1-5 using five step
grey scales (including half-step) for
evaluating change in colour and staining
respectively, where a rating of 5
indicates excellent and that of 1
indicates very poor fastness properties.
The grey scale used for assessing
change in colour and for assessing
staining have the numbers ISO 105-
A03:1993 and ISO 105-A03:1993
respectively.
Assessment of
colourfastness to light
Colour fastness to light is assessed
on a Mercury Bulb Tungsten Filament
(MBTF) light fastness tester following a
method prescribed in IS:2454-1985.
One half portion of each sample
measuring 1 x 4.5 cm is appropriately
covered with a piece of opaque black
paper (to provide a control section for
visual assessment of photofading)
before placing the same in the light
fastness tester. Eight blue wool
standards with numbers (1-8) similarly
covered and having progressively lower
fading rate with increasing standard
numbers are also exposed along with
the test specimen. The rate of fading of
the test specimen is visually compared
with that of the standard samples for
determination of colourfastness rating.
Blue wool standard fabrics used for
such purpose have number ISO 105:
BO1C LFS1 - LFS8.
Assessment of
colourfastness to rubbing
This is determined employing a
crock-o-meter following the method as
prescribed in IS:766-1988. For such
purpose, the dyed fabric sample is
placed on the instrument and rubbed
with a piece of white fabric of similar
construction. The white piece of fabric
is mounted on the tip of a finger of
900 g weight which moves to and fro
along a track length of 10 cm. The test
piece is subjected to the action of such
rubbing for 10 cycles in each case,
where one complete to and fro
movement of the finger over the track
constitutes one cycle. The staining on
adjacent fabrics is rated between 1-5

Fig 3 : Natural dyed cotton yarn
using five step grey scale (including
half-step) for evaluating staining, where
a rating of 5 indicates excellent and
that of 1 indicates very poor fastness
properties. The grey scale used for
assessing staining is made in
accordance with ISO and has the
number ISO 105-A03:1993.
Conclusion
Today, natural dyes are emerging
globally because of the growing
consumer awareness about
environmental conservation and
pollution control. Plants sources which
have potential to be used as textile
colorants can be explored further for
commercialisation. Efforts should be
made to identify the raw materials from
plant sources and to standardise the
recipe and dyeing conditions for their
uses. There is currently demand for
natural dyes in a niche market that
could be explored further. The large
scale production of textiles dyed with
natural dyes is a new concept for textile
industr y (Fig 3).
The following conclusions can be
drawn while using natural dyes for the
colouration of textile materials:
z Before application of natural dyes,
proper preparatory processes e.g.
scouring and bleaching for cotton and
degumming for silk, should be
effectively carried out in order to
achieve level dyeing and also to avoid
poor washing and rubbing fastness.
z Water used for extraction should be
free from metallic impurities and
hardness of around 50 ppm is always
recommended.
z The aqueous extraction with alkali is
the most common method, but this may
change the actual tone or hue of the
colour. So, it is always better to extract
the dyes with water alone.
z Metal salts should be used in such
nearest possible quantity to avoid
wastages and to minimise sewage
pollution as well as not to exceed the
limit of eco-parameters for textiles or
not to be included in the list of
objectionable heavy metal.
z The final dyed materials should
always be washed with non-ionic liquid
detergent to remove the surface colours
and to improve wet fastness properties.
Ordinary soap or detergent available in
the markets should not be used as it
contains sodium compound, which may
cause severe change in tone of the final
shade along with loss of depth. Poor
wash fastness properties of many
natural dyes are mainly attributed to
ionisation of the dyes during alkaline
washing since most of the dyes have
hydroxyl groups which get ionised under
alkaline conditions and also due to
weak dye-fibre interaction.
z Poor light fastness of some of the
natural dyes can be attributed to the
inherent propensity of the dye
chromophore to photochemical
oxidation. Use of inorganic salts, viz.
aluminium sulphate, ferrous sulphate,
copper sulphate, following a pre- and
post- salt application method causes a
common increase in light fastness rating
of the dyed substrates. Aluminium, iron
and copper with their good complex
forming ability can hold two or more
suitable dye molecules together to form
insoluble large complex, which enhanced
the light fastness of the dyed substrates.
Such complexation of the coloured
component within the fibre structure
leads to polymerisation of the dye
molecules which is also responsible for
improvement in light fastness. The
NATURAL DYES
improvements in light fastness
properties following pre- and post-
mordanting technique should be
understood taking the above facts into
considerations.
References
1 N Bhattacharya and S Vairagi, Colourage,
49(4), pp 45-53 (2002)
2 J D Hill, Rev Prog Col, 27, pp 19 (1997)
3 Natural Dyes and Their Application to
Textiles, Ed. M L Gulrajani and D B Gupta
(Indian Institute of Technology, New
Delhi), (1992)
4 T Dheeraj, T Priyanka and M Monika,
Colourage, 50(7), pp 35-44 (2003)
5 R A Lal, Colourage, 42(1), pp 55-56
(1995)
6 S R Shukla, Colourage, 53(8), pp 75
(2006)
7 M L Gulrajani, Indian J Fibre Text. Res,
26 (3&4), pp 191 (2001)
8 M L Gulrajani, Colourage, 46(7), pp 19-
28 (1999)
9 B Glover, Textile Chemist Col, 27(4), pp
17 (1995)
1 0 V K Mishra, Colourage, 46(7), pp 31
(1999)
1 1 N Sekar, Colourage, 46(7), pp 33-34
(1999)
1 2 A Johnson, The Theory of Coloration of
Textiles, 2nd edn, (Soc Dyers Col, W
Yorkshire), (1989)
1 3 S R Sivaraja Iyer and D Srinivasan, J Soc
Dyer Col, 100(2), pp 64 (1984)
1 4 W E Morton and J W S Hearle, Physical
P roperties of Textile Fibre, 3rd edn,
(Textile Institute, Manchester), (1997)
1 5 C L Bird, Theor y and Practice of Wool
Dyeing, 4th edn, (Soc Dyers Col,
Bradford, England), (1982)
1 6 F W Billmeyer and M Saltzman,
Principles of Color Technology, 2nd edn,
(A Willey Interscience Publication), pp
140 (1981).
Dr Sankar Roy Maulik has done M Tech
in the field of Fibre Science &
Technology from Indian Institute of
Technology, Delhi and completed PhD
(Engineering) from Jadavpur University,
Kolkata and has almost 14 years of
experience in the field of chemical
processing of textiles. Presently he is
Assistant Professor II with the Viswa
Bharati University, West Bengal.
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 37
 CHEMICAL PROCESSING
Effect of solvent
treatment on high
temperature dyeing of
polyester
Vishnu A Dorugade
T
he most widely used polyester fibre is
made from the linear polymer polyethylene
terephtalate. One of the distinguishing
characteristics of polyester is attributed to the
benzene rings in the polymer chain. The aromatic
character leads to chain stiffness, preventing the
deformation of disordered regions, which results
in weak Van der Waals interaction forces between
chains. Due to this, PET is difficult to be
cr ystallised. Polyester fibres may be considered
to be composed of crystalline oriented semi
crystalline and noncr ystalline (amorphous)
regions. The aromatic, carboxyl and aliphatic
molecular groups are nearly planar in
configuration and exist in a side-by-side
arrangement. Stabilisation distances between
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 38
atoms in neighboring molecules are usually Van
der Waals contact distances, and there is no
structural evidence of any abnormally strong
forces among the molecules. The unusually high
melting point of PET (compared to
aliphatic polyesters) is not the
result of any unusual
intermolecular forces, but is
attributed to ester linkages. The
cohesion of PET chains is a result
of hydrogen bonds and Van der
Waals interactions, caused by
dipole interaction, induction and
dispersion forces among the
chains. The capacity to form
useful fibres and the tendency to
crystallise depend on these forces
of attraction1.
Dyeing properties
Because of its rigid structure,
well-developed crystallinity and
lack of reactive dye sites,
polyester absorbs very little dye in conventional
dye systems. This is particularly true for the
highly crystalline (highly drawn), high tenacity and
high modulus fibres.
Polyester fibres are A lot of energy can be saved by
therefore dyed
carrying out dyeing at
almost exclusively
with disperse dyes. comparatively lower
A considerable temperature using solvents
amount of research
work has been done to improve the dyeability of
PET fibres. Polymerising a third monomer, such
 CHEMICAL PROCESSING

as dimethyl ester, has successfully

Table 1 : Results of evaluation of polyester samples dyed with
produced a cationic dyeable polyester
Disperse Dark Red 2B
fibre into the macro-molecular chain.
This third monomer has introduced Pretreated with sodium benzoate and steaming at 180°C
functional groups as the sites to which
the cationic dyes can be attached2. Sample No. Conc. of sodium K/S L* a* b*
The third monomer also contributes to benzoate in g/l
disturbing the regularity of PET
1 Untreated 14.62 40.26 54.78 8.40
polymer chains, so as to make the 2 5 16.79 38.04 53.02 8.70
structure of cationic dyeable polyester 3 10 16.93 38.05 53.96 9.91
less compact than that of normal PET 4 15 17.11 39.31 55.98 9.76
fibres. The disturbed structure is good
Pretreated with sodium benzoate and Steaming at 170°C
for the penetration of dyes into the
5 Untreated 14.38 39.15 54.02 9.20
fibre. The disadvantage of adding a
6 5 15.75 39.70 54.41 7.99
third monomer is the decrease of the
7 10 16.32 39.03 54.65 9.40
tensile strength.
8 15 19.86 35.98 52.73 10.18
A new dyeing process for polyester
fibre at low temperature (40oC and Pretreated with sodium benzoate and steaming at 150°C
below) has been reported3. This method 9 Untreated 12.55 41.61 54.08 5.96
employs a disperse dye in a 10 5 13.45 40.6 53.57 6.57
microemulsion of a small proportion of 11 10 13.95 40.46 54.54 7.60
alkyl halogen and phosphoglyceride. The 12 15 15.44 40.17 56.19 9.03
main advantage of this method is low Pretreated with sodium benzoate and steaming at 140°C
temperature processing, but there 13 Untreated 10.19 44.08 54.11 4.19
remains the environmental problem 14 5 10.59 43.4 53.85 4.38
produced by using toxic carriers. 15 10 11.52 42.47 53.67 5.14
Another approach has been 16 15 13.25 41.50 55.45 7.03
introduced by Saus et al4. The textile Pretreated with sodium benzoate and steaming at 120°C
industry uses large amounts of water 17 Untreated 3.96 53.38 46.38 -2.67
in dyeing processes, emitting organic 18 5 4.21 53.19 48.57 -1.03
compounds into the environment. Due 19 10 4.32 53.41 50.04 -0.23
to this problem a dyeing process for 20 15 4.72 52.27 50.25 -0.09
polyester fibre was developed, in which
supercritical CO2 is used as a transfer Dyestuffs emusifier (non-ionic surfactant), methy-
medium5. This gives an option of lene chloride, sodium benzoate, o-dich-
avoiding water discharge. It is low in Disperse Nova Dark Red 2B loro benzene, sodium hydrosulphite and
cost, non-toxic, non-flammable and sodium hydroxide were used for dyeing.
recyclable. When dyed in an aqueous Chemicals
medium, reduction clearing is to be Methods
carried out to stabilise colour intensity, Acetic acid, citric acid, sodium
which produces more wastewater. alginate (anti-migrating agent), Different dyeings were carried out
Reduction clearing is not carried out using pad-dry-steam
following supercritical dyeing. Other method. All the dyeings
advantages are better control of the were carried out under
dyeing process and better quality of identical conditions
application achieved6. using various solvent
treated polyester
Materials and methods samples.
Solvents are
emulsified with
Materials emulsifying agent and
these emulsified
Fabric used: solvents were used for
z 100% spun polyester (both warp and the treatment. After this
weft wise) treatment, dyeing was
z Plain weave Fig 1 : Effect of concentration of sodium benzoate on K/S carried out. Treatment
z GSM : 70 g/m2 values at different temperatures with solvent is carried

Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 39

CHEMICAL PROCESSING

70oC for 10 min.

Table 2 : Results of evaluation of polyester samples dyed with
Disperse Dark Red 2B
Evaluation of dyed
Pretreated with o-dichlorobenzene and steaming at 180°C samples
Sample No. Conc of o-dich- K/S L* a* b* The dyed fabric samples were
lorobenzene (g/l) evaluated for colour strength or colour
1 Untreated 14.62 40.26 54.78 8.40
yield and L*, a*, b* values.
2 5 15.70 39.35 54.15 9.38 Dyed samples were evaluated for
3 10 16.01 38.29 52.06 8.11 the depth of the color by determining
4 15 17.21 38.96 55.4 9.16 K/S values using a Spectraflash SF 300
computer colour matching system
Pretreated with o-dichlorobenzene and steaming at 170°C
supplied by Datacolor International,
5 Untreated 14.38 39.15 54.02 9.20
USA.
6 5 15.93 41.19 55.55 7.32
7 10 16.96 39.35 54.36 8.64
8 15 17.44 37.84 53.97 8.90 Results and discussion
Pretreated with o-dichlorobenzene and steaming at 150°C
A number of polyester fabric
9 Untreated 12.55 41.61 54.08 5.96 samples were treated with various
10 5 14.53 39.12 52.36 6.73 concentrations of sodium benzoate
11 10 15.29 39.5 54.08 7.30 emulsions at room temperature for 20
12 15 16.93 36.61 51.14 8.22 min. Then, treated samples (without
Pretreated with o-dichlorobenzene and steaming at 140°C washing) were dyed with Disperse Dark
13 Untreated 10.19 44.08 54.11 4.19 Red 2B by pad-dry-steam technique at
14 5 11.37 42.18 53.28 4.33 different temperatures. This study was
15 10 11.84 42.6 54.85 4.71 carried out for five different tempera-
16 15 12.06 41.13 52.57 4.17 tures as mentioned in the dyeing
Pretreated with o-dichlorobenzene and steaming at 120°C procedure. The dyeing results are shown
17 Untreated 3.96 53.38 46.38 -2.67 in Table 1 and represented in Fig 1.
18 5 3.99 54.05 47.98 -1.81 From the results, it was observed
19 10 4.09 54.02 48.69 -2.64 that the solvent treated samples
20 15 4.28 53.15 49.11 -1.66 showed higher colour strength (K/S
values) compared to untreated samples.
out at room temperature for about 20 Citric acid 10 g/l Obviously higher temperature showed
min and the unwashed samples were Anti-migrating agent 2 g/l higher colour values. But, for a
used for the dyeing. Different Solvent X g/l particular temperature, as
concentrations of solvents such as 5, concentration of solvent increased, the
10 and 15 g/l were used for the Dyeing procedure colour value was found to be increased.
treatments. Dyeing was carried out This could be attributed to the swelling
using following pad bath composition: The samples were padded with the action of solvents on polyester. At all
Disperse dye 15 g/l above given padding bath solution using the temperatures, as concentration of
two bowls padding solvent increased, there was increase in
mangle with 70% colour strength. Also, it was observed
expression. Then, that there was no considerable change
samples were dried at in L*, a*, b* values, which indicates no
80oC for 2 min in lab tonal variation in untreated dyeing and
stenter. The dye was solvent treated dyeing.
fixed by steaming for It was also noticed that the effect
10 min at different of solvent at lower temperature, i.e. at
temperatures, viz. 100, 120oC, was negligible. Normally,
120, 140, 150, 170 polyester is dyed with high temperature
and 180oC. steaming at 180oC. The colour value
Then, reduction obtained at 180oC without solvent
clearing treatment was treatment can be achieved at lower
carried out with 1 g/l temperature of 140oC-150oC with
Fig 2 : Effect of concentration of o-dichlorobenzene on K/S hydrosulphite and 2 g/l solvent treatment. Thus, using solvent,
values at different temperatures sodium hydroxide at a lot of heat energy could be saved.

Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 40

 CHEMICAL PROCESSING

temperature of 150oC using 5 g/l

Table 3 : Results of evaluation of polyester samples dyed with
o-dichloro benzene solvent.
Disperse Dark Red 2B
The solvent, o-dichloro benzene, is
Pretreated with methylene chloride and steaming at 180°C toxic and harmful to the health and
environment. Sodium benzoate is a
Sample No. Conc. of methy- K/S L* a* b* safer solvent than the other two
-lene chloride (g/l) solvents under study.
1 Untreated 14.62 40.26 54.78 8.40
In third trial, methylene chloride was
2 5 16.06 42.97 53.62 5.34 used as a solvent. Thus, samples were
3 10 17.70 40.71 53.81 6.54 treated with various concentrations of
4 15 19.07 39.52 54.17 8.78 methylene chloride emulsions at room
temperature for 20 min. Then, treated
Pretreated with methylene chloride and steaming at 170°C
samples were dyed with Disperse Dark
5 Untreated 14.38 39.15 54.02 9.20
Red 2B by pad-dry-steam technique at
6 5 15.28 43.23 55.2 5.20
different temperatures as mentioned in
7 10 15.92 42.41 54.44 4.84
the dyeing procedure. The dyed samples
8 15 17.02 42.41 54.44 4.84
were evaluated for colour strength and
Pretreated with methylene chloride and steaming at 150°C
L, a, b values and the results are shown
9 Untreated 12.55 41.61 54.08 5.96 in Table 3.
10 5 14.58 40.3 52.2 6.07 The results of effect of methylene
11 10 15.67 40.79 54.96 7.46 chloride solvent on colour strength are
12 15 17.72 39 53.83 8.72 shown in Table 3 and Fig 3. In this
Pretreated with methylene chloride and steaming at 140°C case also, the same trend was
13 Untreated 10.19 44.08 54.11 4.19 noticed as that of both the solvents
14 5 12.19 42.9 54.14 4.36 namely sodium benzoate and o-
15 10 13.07 41.40 52.44 3.67 dichloro benzene.
16 15 15.48 41.05 53.62 6.45 From the Fig 3, it was noticed that
Pretreated with methylene chloride and steaming at 120°C methylene chloride was equally
17 Untreated 3.96 53.38 46.38 -2.67 effective as that of o-dichloro benzene
18 5 4.37 51.68 51.14 -1.54 and more effective than sodium
19 10 5.13 49.92 51.10 1.09 benzoate if the standard colour value
20 15 5.73 49.92 51.10 1.09 (colour strength) of dyeing is taken at

From Fig 1, it was noticed that dichloro benzene

higher amount of solvent is required to
get maximum colour strength at lower
steaming temperature, whereas less
concentration of solvent is enough to
get maximum colour strength at higher
temperature.
Similarly in another trial, polyester
fabric samples were treated with
various concentrations of o-dichloro-
benzene emulsions at room tempera-
ture for 20 min, and treated samples
(without washing) were dyed with
Disperse Dark Red 2B by pad-dry-
steam technique. The dyeing results
are shown in Table 2 and represented
in Fig 2.
From Table 2 and Fig 2, it was
clear that almost the same trend was
observed in case of o-dichloro
benzene solvent treatment as
compared to sodium benzoate treated
samples. Thus, at a particular
temperature, as concentration of o-
increases, the K/S
values of dyed
samples increase.
Also, it was
observed that there
was no considerable
change in L*, a*, b*
values, which indicates
no tonal variation in
untreated dyeing and
solvent treated dyeing.
Thus, there was no
adverse effect of
Fig 3 : Effect of concentration of methylene chloride on K/S
solvent on tonal values at different temperatures
variations of the shade.
From Fig 2, it was noticed that o- 180oC for untreated polyester sample.
dichloro benzene is slightly more From Table 3, this value was
effective than sodium benzoate in K/S = 14.62. This colour strength
producing more colour strength, if the could be obtained at lower temperature,
standard colour value (K/S) of dyeing is i.e at 150oC using 5 g/l solvent.
taken at 180 C for untreated polyester
o
In case of all the solvents, the
sample, which is 14.62. This colour increase in the colour strength was
strength could be obtained at lower observed as concentration of solvent

Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 43

CHEMICAL PROCESSING

increased. Thus, the influence of
solvent treatment on the dye uptake
may be due the higher segmental
mobility of molecules in the polymer
which facilitates higher dye
absorption. The crystalline phase is
not at all involved in dyeing.
It could be also attributed to the
freedom of motion of polymer
molecules by reducing the attraction
forces between them when treated with
solvents. Because of this, much faster
rate of diffusion of dye through the fibre
may take place.
Conclusion
Dyeing of polyester is difficult
because of its hydrophobic nature and
high cr ystallinity. Higher temperature is
required for the dyeing of polyester with
disperse dyes. In case of thermo-
fixation (dry heat) continuous dyeing
method, many restrictions are there and
shades are not brighter. So continuous
dyeing can be possible by fixation of
dyes with high temperature (HT)
steaming.
Normally, for HT steaming, a
temperature of 180oC is maintained for
fixation of disperse dyes on polyester.
Results of higher temperature steaming
could be obtained by carrying out
steaming at reduced temperature of
140oC-150oC using solvent treatment.
Before dyeing, polyester may be treated
with solvent emulsions or the solvent
may be used in dyeing pad bath.
Thus, a lot of energy could be saved
by carrying out dyeing at comparatively
lower temperature using solvents. Even
these solvents may be used in print
paste so that prints could be fixed at
lower temperatures.
References
1 Mehta Aspy et al, Equilibrium Melting
Parameters of Poly (ethylene terephtalate)
J of Polym, Sci, Polym Phys Ed 16 pp 289
(1978)
2 Pal S K, et al, Draw-texturing of Cationic
Dyeable Polyester Yarn Text Res J, 63(2)
pp 71-79 (1993)
3 Fite G F J et al, : Dyeing Polyester at Low
Temperatures: Kinetics of Dyeing with
Disperse Dyes, Text Res J, 65, (6), pp 362-
368 (1995)
4 Saus W, Krittel D, Schollmeyer E Dyeing
of Textiles in Supercritical CO2, Text Res
J, 63, pp 135-142 (1993)
5 Saus W, Krittel D, Schollmeyer, E.: Dyeing
with Superficial CO 2, An Alternative to
High Temperature Dyeing of Polyester,
Textile, 47, pp 1052-1054 (1992)
6 Rajendran S, Ramasamy S S, Mishra S P,
Studies On Dyeing and Structural
Behaviour of Chemically Treated Yarn
Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 62
(7), pp 989-1001 (1996).
Dr Vishnu A Dorugade is the principal at
the Centre for Textile Functions, Mukesh
Patel School of Technology, Management
and Engineering, Narsee Monjee Institute
of Management Studies (NMIMS), Shirpur
Campus, Shirpur - 425 405, Dist. Dhule,
Maharashtra, India.

Novozymes to establish new innovation campus in Denmark

Novozymes has signed a deal biotech research. Our new
with Lyngby-Taarbæk Municipality campus will be important in
to acquire a 140,000 m 2 site in creating the ultimate conditions for
Lyngby. The site is located 13 km product development while
north of Copenhagen, close to the simultaneously offering our
highway to Elsinore, and 7 km employees a great workplace,'
from its headquarters in says Per Falholt. ‘We are
Bagsværd. delighted that the Lyngby-
Novozymes' goal is to build a Taarbæk Municipality is interested
new campus dedicated to in this project.'
research and business As part of the campus
development. construction, Novozymes will also
‘This is an investment in the establish a learning centre where
future, where the new innovation campus will be a cornerstone students and visitors alike are invited to discover and learn
for our global research. Novozymes is driven by innovation and about the magic of nature and biology. The learning centre will
this centre will help strengthen our growth through developing include teaching laboratories, a small cinema and a cafe, and
ground-breaking biotechnology,' says Per Falholt, executive will function as a link to the research environment in Lyngby.
vice president for R&D at Novozymes. ‘Novozymes' project is ambitious and fits perfectly into
Approximately 14% of Novozymes' revenue is reinvested our goal of developing as a knowledge and university city,'
into research annually, leading to the development of over 100 said Sofia Osmani, Mayor of Lyngby-Taarbæk. ‘The new
new products since the company went public 15 years ago. innovation campus will strengthen education, research and
These products are used globally and enable energy-efficient business in the municipality. And Novozymes also shares
production, replacement of fossil fuels, more sustainable food our ambition to maintain and develop the area as a green
production and other benefits. recreational oasis.'
‘With the location in Lyngby, in close proximity to Denmark's The inauguration of the new innovation campus is expected
Technical University, our ambition is to create a global hub for to take place in 2018 upon the approval of the district plan.

Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 44

 SPECIALITY FINISHES

Encapsulation of aroma
and its application
on cotton to impart
mosquito repellency
Mangesh D Teli and Pravin P Chavan

M
osquitoes are vectors of several
diseases affecting humans and
domestic animals worldwide1,2.
One approach to prevent mosquito-borne
diseases is mosquito bite prevention through
the application of repellents or physical
barriers such as bed nets2. Repellents are
substances that act locally or at a distance,
deterring an insect from flying to, landing
on, or biting human or animal skin.
Currently, mosquito repellents available to
consumers are based on synthetic chemicals
(mainly N,N-diethyl-m-methylbenzamide) and
a growing number are derived from plants.
Plant-based insect repellents currently on the
market usually contain essential oils (EO)
from citronella (Cymbopogon nardus or
Cymbopogon winterianus)3,4, lemon
eucalyptus (Eucalyptus maculata citriodon),
or combinations of these oils where p-
menthane diol is one of the active
ingredients5,6. Traditional application methods aroma release is very promising. Several
such as thermal techniques have been investigated to effectively
expulsion and direct deposit the fragrance, which gradually releases
The treated fabrics show burning of mosquito aroma during use, and to improve wash fastness8.
promising potential in repellent plants The bedding must be sensitive to the touch
and smell good for wellness feeling and for sound
application of mosquito (Corymba citriodora,
Ocimum suave etc) sleep and mental health. One of the choices is
repellent textiles with aesthetic have shown to the use of aromatic essential oil which can be
properties like fragrance decrease the therapeutic can reduce stress and make one to
number of feel relaxed.
Anopheles mosquitoes entering a house7. The textile industry has developed micro-
Surface modification of fibres can change the capsules containing essential oils which, upon
characteristics of textile fabrics and impar t them application on fabric, have been found to exhibit
with new functionalities. Among these, the attractive aroma and sometimes mosquito
addition of fragrance to the sur face of textiles for repellent properties. The development of a new

Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 45

SPECIALITY FINISHES
type of microcapsule containing
fragrance and embedding the same in
the fabric of socks has been reported
to deodorise such materials upon
wearing9.
However, very limited research is
being done in this field with a view to
apply such technology in personal
hygiene and health care domain10,12.
Therefore, in this research work,
Citronella oil with aroma formulation
possessing properties like mood lifting
during depression, deodorising,
sterilising, bug repelling properties13,14
etc is used as the core material for
encapsulation. A spray drying method
was used for preparation of
microcapsules. The dried microcapsules
were then applied onto cotton fabric and
their mosquito repellency effect has
been studied.
Materials and methods
Materials
Citronella essential oil (purchased
from local market) was used as a
mosquito repellent. Ready for dyeing
cotton fabric of 108 GSM was supplied
by Tata Mills, Mumbai, India. Gum
acacia and sodium sulphate used were
of analytical grade and supplied by S D
Fine Chemicals and Ami Chemicals Ltd,
Mumbai, respectively. The non-ionic
detergent, Auxipon NP, was supplied by
Auxichem Ltd, Mumbai. Terpineol,
damascone, anethol, phenyl ethyl
alcohol, Nitro aldol derivative, iso
muskone, santalol, jasmine absolute,
Iso musk, sandalwood oil etc were
supplied by Symrise Flavours.
Methods (Preparation of
microcapsules)
Preparation of Aroma
Fragrant A was prepared by using
terpineol (0.2%), damascone (0.08%),
anethol (0.1%), phenyl ethyl alcohol
(0.02%), nitro aldol derivative (0.2%),
iso muskone (0.2%), santalol (0.1%)
and jasmine absolute (0.1%).
The above prepared composition of
fragrant A was taken in 40 parts and to
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 46
(a)
Fig 1 : Microscopic images : a = 50X, b = 100X
this were added jasmine absolute, iso
musk and sandalwood oil, 20 parts
each.
The blend of above aroma was
prepared with citronella oil in 30:70
ratio (Aroma: Citronella oil) which was
found to be the best combination of
blending qualifying for highest ratings
obtained from five perfumery students.
Microcapsules of this blended
aroma with citronella oil were prepared
by using spray drying method and
applied by using citric acid method.
Emulsion preparation
Gum acacia was dissolved in
distilled water. After that, core material
(aroma) was added to the mixture with
constant stirring. Total solid content
was kept constant (20%) and core
material used was 15% of wall
material. The mixture was emulsified in
a shear homogeniser for 10 min at
4000 rpm until complete dispersion.
Spray drying
The slurr y of carrier materials,
water and oil was spray dried in a JISL,
LSD - 98 model mini spray dryer. The
pressure of compressed air for the flow
of the spray was adjusted to 2 bars.
The inlet temperature of spray drying
was maintained as 170oC. Aspirator
was adjusted to 45. The microcapsules
so prepared were collected from the
collecting chamber. These powders
were filled in airtight, self-sealable
polyethylene pouches and stored in a
desiccator containing calcium chloride
at 25oC to prevent moisture absorption
until further studies.
The scanning electron microscopic
evaluation of microcapsule slurry was
(b)
carried out and magnified images of
microcapsules were recorded on LEICA
electronic microscope. Scanning elec-
tron micrograph (SEM) of microcap-
sules treated and untreated cotton
fabric samples were recorded (Philips
XL-30) to see the presence of micro-
capsules on the fabric. Particle size
analysis of microencapsulated slurry
was carried out on the Malvern Master-
sizer S (Brookhaven Instrument
Corporation) which works based on
Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) (Fig 1).
Application procedure
In 100 ml water in a beaker, 80 gpl
citric acid, 20 gpl sodium hypophos-
phite and 40 gpl of silicone softener
were added and the solution was stirred
well. In another beaker, 100 ml water
was taken and 50 gpl aroma micro-
capsules were added to it. Fabric was
padded with citric acid at 90% pick up,
dried at 80oC for 2 min and then cured
for 170oC for 1 min. Then, the same
fabric was again padded with micro-
capsule dispersion and subjected to air
drying and curing at 120oC for 2 min.
Evaluation of
microcapsules
Determination of total oil
in microcapsule
Total oil in the spray-dried
microcapsules was determined by
Clevenger distillation. A 500 ml flat-
bottomed flask was used to mix 5 gm
of microcapsules in 150 ml of distilled
water. Each flask was stoppered and
manually shaken for approximately
1 min in order to break clumps and

Table 1 : Particle size distribution of aroma microcapsules
Microcapsules Size range of microcapsules (μm)
Diameter
at 10%
Aroma 1.59
Fig 2 : Particle size distribution of aroma micocapsules
facilitate dissolution. The Clevenger
apparatus was fitted to the top of the
flask with an ice-water cooled
condenser on top of it. The solution was
distilled for 3 hr. The volume of the oil,
read directly from the oil collection
arm, was converted into gm of oil by
multiplying it by the density of the oil
system.
Determination of encapsulation
efficiency of microcapsule
Encapsulation efficiency of the
microcapsules was determined using
following equation:
The size distribution of microcapsule
is given in Table 1 and Fig 2.
Estimation of mosquito
repellency by Cage test method
The mosquito-repellent properties of
the treated samples were evaluated
according to standard method for
testing mosquito repellent materials.
Around hundred local mosquitoes were
released in a 40x30x30 cm3 mosquito-
rearing cage maintained 25±3oC and a
relative humidity of 65±5%. An arm
wrapped with the treated fabric was
Diameter Diameter
at 50% at 90%
5.13 14.42
held in the cages or testing monitor for
30 min. During this time, the sample
was exposed to mosquitoes and the
number of biting occurrences was
reported at varying time intervals (i.e.
after 2 min, 5 min, 10 min, 20 min
and 30 min). The percentage repellency
was defined as the percentage
reduction in the number of bites when
arm was covered with treated sample,
as compared to that when arm was
covered with the control (untreated)
sample.
The results were analysed according
to the following equation:
where, C and T are the number of
mosquitoes collected from the control
area and from the treated area of a
subject, respectively.
Qualitative evaluation of odour
The method for odour evaluation was
based on Lewis's procedure. To have
relative idea about sensorial intensity of
scent, the evaluation of fragrance was
done by panel of 10 judges, in insulated
booths where the fabrics were kept on
an open desk at room temperature.
Standard sample of each scale was
first given to all judges to rank the test
SPECIALITY FINISHES
specimen. Evaluation was done for all
washed and unwashed treated samples
which were packed in an airtight
polyethene bag so that there was no
release of fragrance in between the
evaluation due to exposure to air or
light. The washed samples were
evaluated within 24 hr following
washing. The samples were placed in a
room for 1 hr to stabilise the evapo-
ration of fragrance prior to being
judged. To prevent biasing, the judges
were not allowed in or near the
stabilising room, and samples were
brought to a judge in an evaluation
room. To detect odour, a specimen was
put on a flat hard board on a desk, a
judge would use a fingernail to scratch
a ‘X’ mark on the specimen to rupture
some capsules and smell the swatch.
The size of ‘X’ mark was about 3 cm x
3 cm. Judges were allowed to take 3-4
sniffs for each sample in an open
corridor and rank them in a prepared
rating scales. No judge performed
testing for more than a 15 min period,
with a 15 min rest period between the
two sessions. Fragrance durability after
a selected number of washing cycles
was evaluated using a panel of judges.
Sometimes, they were also given smell
of strong coffee in between to clear off
their nostrils from the smell of previous
sample.
Fragrance Rating was done as per
the following rankings:
‘+++++’ Denotes ver y strong,
‘++++’ Denotes strong, ‘+++’ Denotes
common, ‘++’ Denotes weak, ‘+’
Denotes very weak, and ‘-’ denotes not
detectable.
Condition for wash cycle
Treated fabrics were tested for
number of washing cycles according to
ISO II Test Method, ISO 105-C10. A
solution containing 5 gpl soap solution
was used as washing liquor. The
samples were treated for 45 min at
50oC using liquor to material ratio of
50:1 in wash fastness tester (Launder-
o-meter).
Evaluation of colour change
The cotton fabrics treated with
microencapsulated citronella oil were
subjected to determine L*, a* and b*
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 47
SPECIALITY FINISHES

Table 2 : Effect of different concentrations of aroma capsules on % mosquito repellency, CRA and bending length

Sample Percent mosquito repellency as per time (min) % rep Aroma rating
after 30 min

2 5 10 20 30
5% 94.74 95.55 96.72 96.55 95.96 95.96 +++++
5 washes 94.74 93.33 84.91 88.51 90.33 90.33 ++++
10 washes 78.86 79.48 78.65 74.34 75.022 75.022 ++++
10 % 100 100 98.36 97.70 98.458 98.458 +++++
5 washes 100 93.33 93.44 90.81 90.56 90.56 ++++
10 washes 81.4 57.28 64.12 58.63 62.68 62.68 +++

surface of cotton fabric. It is to be

noted that, as seen in Fig 3, the SEM
image of the slurr y of microcapsules
clearly showed randomly shaped
structures as the fabric contained not
only microcapsule but also the cross
linking agent which hold them to the
fabric.
These microcapsules were applied
on previously citric acid treated cotton
fabric. Results of this set of experi-
Control sample Treated sample ments are given in Table 2. The results
indicate very strong aroma rating
Fig 3 : Scanning electron microscope images of aroma microcapsules
(+++++) which, even upon 10 washes,
values in terms of CIELAB colour space. microcapsules showed the presence of remains as high as ‘strong’ (++++) with
All the samples were analysed for these microcapsules on the surface of fabric, regard to mosquito repellency. Before
values using Spectraflash SF 300 Com- when compared with the image of the wash, it varied from 98% to 100%;
puter Colour Matching System supplied untreated cotton sample. This confirms whereas, after 10 washes also, it
by Datacolor International, USA. the deposition of microcapsules on the retained around 62-75%.
Evaluation of mechanical
properties of the treated fabric Table 3 : Effect of aroma microcapsule treated cotton on physical
properties of the fabric
The fabric strength was determined
according to the ASTM D 5035 (1995) Sample Tensile strength (kgf) Bending length (cm) CRA (o)
standard test method for breaking
strength and elongation of textile Control 32.73 1.80 106
fabrics on Tinius Olsen H5KS universal 5 % 26.63 2.02 205
testing machine (UTM) tensile strength 5 washes 27.21 1.91 201
testing instrument. The fabric stiffness 10 washes 27.62 1.67 174
10 % 28.50 2.9 234
was evaluated with ASTM D 1388
5 washes 29.10 2.7 210
(1996) standard test method on Shirley
10 washes 29.51 2.5 185
Stiffness testing (Cantilever principle)
instrument. Table 4 : Effect of aroma concentration on L*, a*, b* values and Whiteness,
Yellowness and Brightness indices
Results and discussion
Sample L* a* b* WI YI BI

Control 92.73 0.027 2.479 71.633 4.577 79.777

Characterisation of
5 % 93.207 -0.523 4.26 64.661 7.318 78.991
aroma microcapsules 5 washes 92.331 -0.557 3.144 67.616 5.286 78.432
treated fabric 10 washes 92.363 -0.568 2.829 69.193 4.675 78.893
10% 91.919 -0.784 6.385 51.634 11.04 74.019
The SEM images in Fig 3 show the 5 washes 88.011 -0.343 4.112 52.931 7.644 68.172
topography of the samples. Cotton 10 washes 88.406 -0.549 4.319 52.811 7.77 68.79
fabric treated with spray dried

Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 48


The results in Table 2 aroma in its
core provide a new method of
preparation of mosquito repellent cotton
textile which is quite durable along with
anti-wrinkle performance. The results in
Table 1 indicate particle size
distribution of microcapsules. The
results clearly indicate that the
microcapsules size varies in the range
of 1.59- 14.42 µm. Microcapsules
prepared by using spray dryer have
encapsulation efficiency of 84.32%.
The results in Table 3 indicate that
the tensile strength of the fabric
decreased as a result of finishing with
encapsulated aroma. However, if the
initial fabric construction is properly
looked into, such a loss in tensile
strength can be tolerated. The bending
length values also showed slight
increase in the magnitude and hence
slight increase in the stiffness of the
fabric, although it was well within the
acceptable limit. The CRA values
showed distinct increase, indicating
wrinkle resistance of the material being
improved.
The whiteness index of the finished
fabric decreased as compared to that of
the control sample (Table 4). Conver-
sely, yellowness index on finishing was
distinctly higher than that of control as
shown in Table 3. These results indicate
that, after finishing, there was slight
but distinct decrease in the whiteness
which was mainly because of the cove-
rage of the fabric by the microcapsules.
The overall increase in the ‘b*' value,
and decrease in ‘a*' values towards
negative side, indicate the yellowish
green tonal change which is responsible
for decrease in whiteness index.
Conclusion
The encapsulation efficiency of
aroma containing microcapsules dried
by spray drying technique was very
good. Hence, the cotton fabric treated
with spray dried microcapsules showed
good aroma rating even after 10
washes. The maximum mosquito
repellency was also observed in the
microcapsule treated cotton fabric.
There was slight increase in the bending
length, which may be due to cross
linking agent present in the application
system. These treated fabrics showed
promising potential in application of
mosquito repellent textiles with
aesthetic properties like fragrance.
References
1 Fradin M S, Day J F, Comparative efficacy
of insect repellents against mosquito
bites, New Engl J Med 347:13-18 (2002)
2 Moore S J, Lenglet A, Hill N, Field eva-
luation of three plant based insect repell-
ents against malaria vectors in Vaca Diez
province, The Bolivian Amazon; J Am
Mosq Control Assoc18:107-110 (2002)
3 Barnard DR, Xue R-D, Laborator y eva-
luation of mosquito repellents against
Aedes albopictus, Culex nigripalpus, and
Ochlerotatus triseriatus (Diptera: Culi-
cidae), J Med Entomol, 41:726-730
(2004)
4 Trongtokit Y, Curtis C F, Rongsriyam Y,
Efficacy of repellent products against
caged and free flying Anopheles stephensi
mosquitoes, Southeast Asian J Trop Med
Public Health, 36:pp 1423-1431 (2005)
5 Dugassa S, Medhin G, Balkew M, Seyoum
A, Gebre-Michael T, Field investigation
on the repellent activity of some
aromatic plants by traditional means
against Anopheles arabiensis and An.
pharoensis (Diptera: Culicidae) around
Koka, central Ethiopia, Acta Trop
112:38-42 (2009)
6 Buschmann H J, Knittel D and
Schollmeyer E, New textile applications
of cyclodextrins, Journal of Inclusion
Phenomena and Macrocyclic Chemistry,
40, pp 169-172 (2001)
7 Nonglak Suthaphot, Supa chulakup,
Sakorn Chonsakorn, and Rattanaphol
Mongkholrattanasit, Application of
SPECIALITY FINISHES
aromatherapy on cotton fabric by micro-
capsules, In International Conference:
Textiles & Fashion, Bangkok, Thailand,
July 3-4 (2012)
8 Baranauskien R, Venskutonis P R,
Dewettinck K, Verh R, Properties of
oregano (Origanum vulgare L), citronella
(Cymbopogon nardus G) and marjoram
(Majorana hortensis L) flavours encapsu-
lated into milk protein- based matrices,
Food Res. Int. 39 pp 413-425 (2006)
9 Melnick R L, Jameson C W, Goehl T J,
Maronpot R R, Collins B J, Greenwell A,
Harrington F W, Wilson R E, Tomaszewski
K E, Agarwal D K, Application of microen-
capsulation for toxicology studies, II.
Toxicity of microencapsulated trichloro-
ethylene in Fischer 344 rats, Fundam,
Appl Toxicol 8 pp 432-442 (1987)
10 Chang C P, Dobashi T, P reparation of
alginate complex capsules containing
eucalyptus essential oil and its controlled
release, Colloids Surf. B Biointerfaces 32
pp 257-262 (2003)
11 Vigneshkumar murugan, Mohamed Kas-
hith Masthan, Vijayakumar Vediappan,
Potential And Controlled Repellent
Activity Of Microencapsulated Citronella
Oil Treated Textile Cotton Fabrics
Against Aedes Aegypti, Journal of Bio Sci
& Bioengg, 1 (1) (2012)
12 Wen- Chuan Hsieh, Chih-Pong Chang,
Ying-Lin Gaoc, Controlled release pro-
perties of Chitosan encapsulated volatile
Citronella Oil microcapsules by thermal
treatments, Colloids and Surfaces B:
Biointerfaces 53 pp 209-214 (2006).
Dr M D Teli is a seniormost
professor in Institute of
Chemical Technology,
Mumbai India, as the Head,
Department of Fibres and
Textile Processing Technology. With over
250 publications and having guided over
100 students for Masters and PhD (Tech)
degrees, he is considered as an authority
on textile chemical processing.
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 49
 NEW DYESTUFFS
Novel union dyeing of
chitosan treated cotton and
nylon interwoven fabrics
K Karthikeyan and T Ramachandran
B
lending is a complicated and expensive
process, but it makes possible to build a
combination of properties that are
permanent. The widely used cotton and nylon
interwoven fabrics have breathability, moisture
absorption, of cotton fabrics, and the durability
and ruggedness of nylon fabrics; but they pose
many problems during dyeing due to the
interweave of two different types of fibres. For
instance, only direct dyes or reactive dyes are
generally used to colour cotton fabrics, which are
not very amenable to acidic dyes. If inter woven
fabrics are dyed using a two bath process, the
cotton fibre and the nylon fibre dyes become
contaminated, resulting in poor dyeing.
A blended yarn or fabric generally displays an
average of the properties of the constituent
fibres. When properly combined with cotton, nylon
adds strength, which allows for the development
of unusually fine ‘textures', and nylon provides
smoothness, silkiness, and dirt rejection. It also
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 50
reduces the weight of the fabric and increases its
wrinkle resistance. The cotton gives softness and
moisture absorption. If the combination is not
properly balanced, the cotton may shrink, causing
the fabric to pucker. Also, the nylon fibres may
cut the cotton fibres. A blend of at least 17%
high-tenacity nylon staple with cotton can make a
very durable fabric.
Nylon/cotton blends have been strongly
promoted in
sportswear. Good
One bath dyeing of cotton and
solidity of hue and
depth is more nylon fabrics, developed with
critical in 50:50 acid dyes, is cost effective with
blends and in union an environmental friendly
fabrics, such as approach in the dyeing industry
nylon warp stretch
fabrics, containing
cotton or nylon/cotton wefts for swimwear and
narrow fabrics, crimped nylon warp/viscose
filament dress wear, or cotton warp/nylon weft

Fig 1 : Chemical structure of chitin and chitosan
constructions for uniforms, rain wear or
workwear. Nylon/cotton is also used in
socks. There are various possibilities
regarding the choice of dye classes for
solid effects on nylon/cellulosic blends.
Direct, acid and reactive dyes are the
most widely used anionic dyes for
cotton.
Nylon, being a polyamide, contains
many amide groups in its structure. It
also contains free amine groups at the
ends of its polymeric chains, although
the number of these free amine groups
is less than the number of carboxylic
groups, and therefore, the fibre
possesses a negative charge unless in
the appropriate pH region1. These amide
and amine groups provide excellent
hydrogen bonding sites and are the
main factors contributing to the
substantively of the dye molecules2-3.
Apart from fastness considerations,
the choice of dye system is much
influenced by blend construction. Single-
class methods are mainly used where
nylon is minor component, the nylon
occupying the interior or the reverse
side of the construction. Reser ve,
shadow and limited contrast effects are
practicable on nylon/cellulosic blends,
but seldom encountered in practice.
Most acid dyes have very little affinity
for cotton, but cationic cotton can be
dyed readily with acid dyes. The
ammonium groups act as dye sites.
Chitosan is the N-deacetylated
derivative of chitin, and most of its
glucopyranose residues are 2-2-deoxy-β-
D-glucopyranose. Fig 1 lays out the
chemical structures of chitin and
chitosan. Generally, chitosan is
produced through the deacetylation
reaction of chitin using a concentrated
sodium hydroxide solution of
concentration of over 40% (w/v).
Chitosan can easily adsorb anionic
dyes, such as direct, acid and reactive
dyes, by electrostatic attraction due to
its cationic nature in an acidic
condition4. The application of chitosan
to cotton could reduce the uses of dyes
and residual dyes in wastewaters due to
the increased dye exhaustion. The
ammonium groups act as dye sites5.
Therefore, with blended or mixed
fabrics, using cationic cellulosic fibre
and regular cotton, two-tone effects can
be obtained in one-bath dyeing.
Meanwhile, this phenomenon gives a
possibility to one-bath dyeing for
blended fabrics, using cationic
cellulosic fibre and nylon.
Nylon is favoured at low applied
depths but the distribution shifts in
favour of the cellulosic fibre as the
saturation level of nylon is approached.
The facility to attain high wet fastness
standards on nylon/cellulosic blends by
a one-bath technique at mildly acidic pH
is a substantial advantage over the two-
bath or two-stage.
Mechanism of chitosan
reaction with cellulose
Chitin has the same backbone with
cellulose except for its acetamide group
Table 1 : Geometrical parameters of fabric
Ends/cm Picks/cm
34 33
NEW DYESTUFFS
instead of a hydroxy group. As shown in
Fig 2, chitosan is naturally presenting ß-
1,4-linked linear polysaccharides, and
most of its glucopyranose residues are
2,2-deoxy-β-D-glucopyranose6-7.
The affinity of chitosan to cotton
would be by Van der Waals forces
because of the similar structures of
chitosan and cotton8-9. Another
possibility mentioned for binding the
chitosan to cellulose was crosslinking
by formation of Schiff base between
cellulose's reducing end (-CO-H) and the
amino group of chitosan. In addition to
the two possible binding, hydrogen
bonds also played an important role10.
The main objective of this research
is the ability to dye cotton/nylon blends
Fig 2 : (a) Chemical structures of cellulose
and (b) chitosan
in one step, one dyeing bath after the
treatment of the fabric with
polyacrolamide (chitosan) followed by
acid dyeing. It was also to determine
the effectiveness of pretreatment of
dyed fabrics on the K/S value and
fastness properties like wash fastness
and rub fastness. Various physical
properties like tensile strength, bursting
strength, abrasion resistance, air
permeability etc were also carried out
to determine the effect of chitosan on
blend fabrics.
Experimental
In this research work, four different
cotton and nylon interwoven fabrics
gm/m 2 Warp Weft count
count (Ne) (Ne)
140 40 40
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 51
NEW DYESTUFFS
Table 2 : Functions of dye and
chemicals used
Dyes and chemicals Functions
Chitosan Pretreatment
Acid Red 138 Dyeing
Ammonium acetate Leveling agent
Hydrochloric acid pH
H 2 O2 Oxidising agent
were used in different blend proportions
such as, 100% cotton, cotton/nylon
75:25%, cotton/nylon 50:50%, and
cotton/nylon 25:75%. The geometrical
properties of the fabrics are given
in Table 1.
Dyes and chemicals
The dyes and chemicals used for
pretreatment and dyeing on the cotton
fabric are give in Table 2.
Chitosan preparation
Chitosan (10 g) was dissolved in
100 ml of 0.1 N Hcl, stirred for 30 min,
and added to a 10% (v/v) solution of
hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), stirred at 50oC
for 4 hrs, and then vacuum-filtered. The
residue on the filter was rinsed with
distilled water until the pH was neutral,
then air-dried at 80oC and weighed.
Ethanol was added to the solution that
passed through the filter, left for 24 hrs
at 25oC to precipitate, then filtered,
dried and weighed. This low molecular
weight is easily dissolved in water.
Pretreatment of cotton
with chitosan
Three different solutions containing
Table 3 : Testing methods and instruments used
Property
Dyeabiilty measurement
Air permeability
Crocking fastness to washing
Colour fastness to crocking
Bursting strength
Tensile strength
Colour fastness to water
Absorbency tests
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 52
1 g, 2 g, and 6 g of chitosan were
prepared and stirred for 30 min. Then,
fabrics were treated with this solution
using pad-dr y-cure technique.
Acid dyeing
Dyeing of the pretreated union
fabrics were carried out in the
laboratory dyeing machine by the pad
Fig 3 : Chemical structure of CI Acid
Red 138
method. The fabrics were dyed with
3% CI Acid red 138 as shown in
Fig 3 in a bath containing 9% of
ammonium acetate and 3%
hydrochloric acid of 10% with a liquor
ratio of 1:20.
Firstly, salt and acid were added to
water and the dyeing bath was warmed
at 60oC; then the samples were
immersed in the dyeing bath and the
dyeing continued for 15 min, followed
by adding the dye solution. The dyeing
was continued for another 15 min, then
the temperature was raised to boiling
through 20 min; the dyeing was
continued at this temperature for 30
min; finally the dyeing was stopped and
the dyeing bath was cooled.
Washing
Dyed samples were thoroughly
rinsed with running cold water, then
Standards
ISO 105 JO3:2009
ASTM D 737:2004
ISO 105 C06-B2S (50 oC)
AATCC 08:2005
ISO 13938-1:2000
ASTM D5034-2009
ISO 105 E01:2010
AATCC 79:2007
soaped with 1g/l Na2CO3 at 50oC for 15
min. Soaping were carried out twice to
ensure good washing fastness. Finally,
rinsing with hot and cold water was
done. After wash, the samples were left
air dried.
Testing methodology
The testing methodology adopted in
this research work has been divided into
two different categories such as to
determine physical properties and
fastness properties of dyed fabrics
(Table 3).
Dyeability measurements
The colour strength (K/S) of the
treated sample using the untreated
samples as blank was determined
using Perkin Elmer spectrophotometer,
Model Lambada 35 equipped with
integrated sphere, according to
Kubelka- Munk equation:
K/S = (1-R)2 / 2R
where,
R : decimal fraction of the reflectance
of dyed samples
K: absorption coefficient
S: scattering coefficient.
The colour components L, a, and b
were measured according to CIE L*,
a*, b*. ISO 105 J03, computing the
colours of object by using the CIE
system. Total colour difference (ΔE),
hue (h) and chroma (c) were computed
by spectrophotometrical and determined
by using the following equation:
where ( L1*, b1*, a1* ) is of
Instrument used
X-Rite spectrophotometer
Textest FX 3300 Air Permeability tester
Launder-o-meter
Crock-o-meter
James H Heal pneumatic tester
Instron tensile strength tester
Perspirometer
Absorbency tester
 NEW DYESTUFFS

reference colour; and (L2*, b2*, a2*) fabrics indicate that these fabrics have
Table 5 : Tensile strength - Warp
is of target colour. the reddest appearance.
Sample Mean tensile
Results and discussion Tensile strength strength
in N (Warp)
It was obser ved that the colour The dyed samples were tested by
measurements of cotton fabric have the using Instron tensile strength tester and 100% cotton 351.2
lowest values as shown in Table 4. This results of fabric tensile strength (warp) 354.5
was because cotton fibres, when of the samples are given in Table 5. Cotton/Nylon 25:75% 355.5
immersed in water, produce a negative The breaking strength of dyed 356.5
zeta potential and most of the dye samples was carried out in warp Cotton/Nylon 50:50% 353.4
classes suitable for cotton are anionic direction using tensile strength tester. 354.5
in nature. The negative charge on the The breaking strength of the cotton/ Cotton/Nylon 75:25% 353.3
fibre repels the C I Acid Red 138 dye nylon blend fabric reveals higher 355.6
ions and consequently the exhaustion of strength compared with pure cotton
the dye bath were limited which lead to fabric which is likely in all natural and Table 6 : Air permeability
the decrease of the colour measure- synthetic blends. There was no
Sample Air permeability
ments. The colour measurements of significant difference in tensile strength
(l/m 2/s)
cotton/nylon blends increased with the of fabrics due to chitosan pretreatment.
chitosan pretreatment. 100% cotton 530
The CI Acid Red 138 anionic ions Air permeability 480
react with the positive charges of the Cotton/Nylon 25:75% 650
blends and the colour measurements The dyed samples were tested for 630
increased. The variation of the colour air permeability by using Textest FX
Cotton/Nylon 50:50% 580
measurements of the different blend 3300 Air Permeability Tester, and 520
ratios was due the ability of the anionic results of air permeability values of the
Cotton/Nylon 75:25% 490
dyes to react with the positive charges samples are given in Table 6.
450
present due to the surface area and the A greater relative increase in air
number of pores present. It has been permeability was observed with Table 7 : Bursting strength
pointed out that the highest chroma increasing synthetic fibre content. It
(measures colour saturation) values was concluded that air permeability of Sample Bursting
indicate that the cotton/nylon 75:25% the cotton/nylon blended fabrics also strength (Kpa)
fabrics are dyed with the highest exhibited higher values as compared to
100% cotton 347.2
saturation and the colours obtained are cotton fabrics. It was also pointed out 353.5
the brightest. The values of the hue that nylon reduces the weight of the
Cotton/Nylon 25:75% 420.5
angle (runs between 0o and 360o and fabric and increases its air permeability.
429.6
measures colour range; the angles of Dyed specimens were clamped over
0o, 90o, 180o, 270o refer to red, yellow, an expansive diaphragm by means of a Cotton/Nylon 50:50% 375.5
380.3
green, and blue shades respectively) circular clamping ring. Increasing
showed that all the samples were compressed air pressure was applied to Cotton/Nylon 75:25% 335.9
closer to red colour. The highest ‘h' the underside of the diaphragm, causing 340.3
values of the cotton/nylon 75:25% distension of the diaphragm and the
fabric. The pressure was increased
Table 4 : Colour measurement of dyed fabric smoothly until the test specimen
bursts.
Sample K/S L a b C h
The results obtained in Table 7
100% cotton 3.4* 35.2 28.5 4.5 30.3 5.3 revealed that the bursting strength of
4.5** 36.7 23.7 3.6 29.5 6.2 100% cotton increased after the
chitosan treatment. Bursting strength
Cotton/Nylon 25:75% 5.3 49.5 23.4 3.5 24.5 6.5
increased with the increase of the nylon
5.9 46.7 24.6 3.9 26.3 7.1
percentage in the blend. The highest
Cotton/Nylon 50:50% 6.5 44.5 22.6 3.3 25.5 7.0
values for the treated sample cotton/
7.1 45.3 25.9 4.1 29.5 7.9
nylon 25:75% is 429.6. Blends
Cotton/Nylon 75:25% 4.8 36.7 26.9 4.7 31.5 5.9 containing less than 50% nylon were
7.3 46.3 23.2 3.7 31.4 8.3 actually weaker than all cotton yarns.
*Untreated, **Chitosan pretreated
Owing to the lower modulus of the
nylon, the load on the yarn as it was

Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 53

NEW DYESTUFFS

Table 8 : Colour fastness and absorbency properties

Sample Absorbency Washing Water Crocking

Dry Wet
sec Colour change Staining Colour change Staining Staining Staining

100% Cotton 2 2-3 1-2 3 1-2 3-4 2

2 3-4
Cotton/Nylon 25:75% 5 4
5 4
Cotton/Nylon 50:50% 4 4-5
4 4
Cotton/Nylon 75:25% 3 4
2 4
3-4 3-4 3-4 4 3-4
4 4 3-4 4 3-4
4-5 4 4-5 4 4
4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4
4-5 4 4-5 4 4
3-4 4 3-4 4 3-4
4-5 4 4-5 4 4

extended was increasingly borne by the
cotton fibres in the blend. This was due
to the bleaching of nylon/cotton blends
with hydrogen peroxide at the boil. The
amount of peroxide affects the propor-
tion of nylon present and an oxidative
damage of the nylon occurred, lowering
the bursting strength of the blends.
Colourfastness and
absorbance properties
It can be seen from Table 8 that the
wash fastness was poor in untreated
fabric. It is due to poor affinity of
cotton with acid dyes. After chitosan
pretreatment, all fabrics exhibited good
washing and water fastness properties.
Amino group present in the chitosan
binds anionic dye molecules due to
electrostatic attraction. It leads to
better fastness properties.
Also, the staining tendency on the
adjacent fabrics was much less; the
fastness showed such good
performance that it may be due to the
amino group present on the treated
cotton fabric. Rubbing fastness also
improved in chitosan treated fabric as
compared with untreated fabrics. It can
be seen that the rubbing fastness
ratings are between (3/4 - 4) in both
dr y and wet rubbing. Fibre type seems
to have a significant effect on the
absorbency properties which is not
relevant to pretreatment.
Conclusion
In this research work, a new
method of union dyeing has been
developed for chitosan treated cotton/
nylon fabrics with acid dyes. This
paper described the ability to dye
cotton/nylon blends in one step, one
dyeing bath, with shortened time. The
results obtained revealed that the
cotton/nylon 75:25% blend fabrics
have the highest colour measurement
values and colourfastness; whereas
cotton/nylon 25:75% blend fabric
represented the highest air
permeability and bursting strength.
Therefore, one bath dyeing of cotton
and nylon fabrics, developed with acid
dyes using biocompatible and
biodegradable modification agents such
as chitosan, will be cost effective with
an environmental friendly approach in
the dyeing industry.
References
1 Tsai, U-Yueh, Wen, Ying & Hsieh, Hsing, ,
Cotton/Nylon mixed fabric active single
bath dye, Dyeing and Finishing, No 3,
Vol 24, pp 27 (2002)
2 Arthur D Broadbent, Basic principle of
Textile Coloration (2001)
3 Baig G A, Dyeing nylon with indigo in
various ph regions AUTEX Research
Journal, Vol 10, No 1, March 2010
AUTEX
4 Draper S L, K R Beck, C B Smith Hauser &
P J Kanik, AATCC Rev 2003, 51 (2003)
5 Jeon Y J, Kim S K, Carbohydrate Polymer,
(2000) 41, 133
6 Hwang J K et al, Bactericidal activity of
chitosan on E coli, In Advances in Chitin
Science; Chen R H, Chen H C
7 Shang Run-ling, 2010, One-bath dyeing
of cotton/nylon mixture with reactive
and acid dyes, Dyeing & finishing,
2101-16
8 Tsai, U-Yueh, Wen, Ying & Hsieh, Hsing,
Cotton/Nylon mixed fabric active single
bath dye, Dyeing and Finishing, Vol 24,
no 3, pp 27-28 (2002)
9 Yoo D I et al, Advances in Chitin Science
Vol II, Jacques Andre Publisher: Lyon,
France (1997)
10 Wu, Yen-Ping, Cotton/Nylon mixed fabric
- The art of warp weft heterochromatic,
Dyeing and Finishing, Vol 4, No 3, pp 23-
26 (2002)
11 Eco-textile News/ 25th October 2010 -
h t t p : / / w w w. m o w b r a y. u k . c o m /
products.html.
12 AATCC Standard test method (79-2007),
Absorbency of Textiles
13 AATCC Standard test method (8-2005),
Determination of color fastness to
crocking
14 ASTM Standard test method (D 734-
2004), Determination Air permeability of
Textiles
15 ISO Standard test method (105
C06:2010), Determination of color
fastness to Washing
16 ISO Standard test method (14184-
1:1998) Determination of free formal-
dehyde
17 ISO Standard test method (ISO 13938-
2:1999) Determination of Bursting
strength.
K Karthikeyan is a Research Scholar
(Textile Engineering), at Karpagam
University, Eachanari, Coimbatore 641
021, Tamil Nadu, India

Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 54

 YARN DYEING

Dyeing of wool, silk and

their blends in single bath
dyeing process - II
Debojyoti Ganguly, Chanchal Mondal and Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury

Dyeing of wool z Dyeing of wool with Lanasol dyes: With the

help of Lanasol dyes, wool fibres are dyed in very
bright shades with high reactivity and have very
Dyeing with reactive dyes good overall fastness. Buhler & Casty 80-81,
Like silk fibre, wool fibre is
also a protein fibre and the basic
constituents are amino acids. Due
to the same chemical structure
like silk fibre, wool fibre also has
a high affinity towards reactive,
acid and metal complex dyes. The
reactive dyes are unique among
other dyes as they are covalently
bonded to the substrate, i.e. the
dye and the fibre substrate form a
bond of shared electrons between
them. The energy required to split
this bond is very high so the high
degree of wetfastness is observed
with the application of these dyes.
A number of papers discussed the
methods of application of reactive
dyes on wool71-78.
The amino, thiol and hydroxyl
groups in wool are the potential
reactive groups and capable to
react with reactive dyes. Reactive dyes are Mosimann73, and Mausezahl82 studied in detail on
reacted with wool fibre by either by nucleophilic the reaction mechanism of wool with Lanasol
substitution reactions or Michael addition dyes.
reaction. z Dyeing of wool with Drimalan dyes: Drimalan
z Dyeing of F dyes with 2,4,6 tri fluoro 5 chloro pyrimidine
Wool and silk blended fabrics wool with Procilan structures will give a high fixation rate with
are becoming popular and dyes: The reaction wool fibres (95%). For reactive dyes with wool
fashionable products in the method by Procilan fibres, good auxiliaries are required to achieve
level and solid shades. In the absence of these
dyes with wool was
present days studied by Derby- auxiliaries, the dyed material become skitter y
shire and Tristram79. and unlevel. Albagel A by Ciba Gaigy, at the
It was observed that these types of dyes are fixed time of introducing Lanasol dyes, gives good
covalently with wool at pH 7 for 1 hour. levelling properties.

Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 57

YARN DYEING
z Dyeing of wool with Trifunctional
reactive dyes: Cho et al83 studied the
effect of novel trifunctional reactive
dyes on wool fibre. In this research
work, Cho first developed N,N-bis-{2[(2-
chloroethyl)sulphonyl] ethyl}-amine as
an intermediate. After the intermediate
is prepared by the reaction of bis-(2-
chloroethyl)amine hydrochloride with 2-
mercaptoethanol followed by
simultaneous oxidation and chlorination
with sodium hypochlorite and
hydrochloric acid, it is reacted with
Procion Red MX 8B. The fabric was
treated with this modified dye in 3%
shade. It is observed at the time of
dyeing that the modified dyestuff have
remarkably high fixation rate (10-20%
high) than the other types of reactive
dyestuff (pH≤4) due to the presence of
three functional group in the dye
molecule. Besides the presence of
three functional groups in the dye
molecule, higher fixation efficiencies of
the dyestuff may be due to higher
reactivity of the terminal chlorine atoms
in terms of their leaving group
behaviour. The modified trifunctional
dyes showed remarkably improved
dyeing properties against selected
conventional wool reactive dyes such as
Lanasol Red 6G and Drimalan Red F-2G,
and hetero-bifunctional dyes such as
Sumifix Supra Brilliant Red 3BF,
especially in the pH range of 3-4. This
indicates that the dyes produced using
the novel intermediate could be
excellent reactive dyes for wool as they
produce less dye effluent without
sacrificing physical properties.
z Dyeing of wool with Sumafix reactive
dyes: Lee86 studied the dyeing process
and the effect of dyeing of Sumafix
Supra range of reactive dyes on wool/
cellulosic blends. It is obser ved that
Sumafix Supra range reactive dyes offer
high levels of exhaustion, excellent
fixation and superior fastness
properties. The dyeing process is a one
bath, single-stage method that utilises
a combination of Sumafix Supra and
Sumafix reactive dyes at a dyeing
temperature of 60oC. A typical dyeing
profile includes setting the dyebath
temperature at 60oC, adding Glauber's
salt, processing for 10 min, adding
Sumafix Supra dyes over a 10 min
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 58
period, processing for 30 min at 60oC,
adding alkali over a 60 min period,
processing for 30 to 60 min, and
washing off. It is observed that the
proper pH for the dyebath depends on
the depth of shade being dyed. For
apparel dyeing, adjustment to the
dyebath pH is required for better seam
penetration.
z Dyeing of amine pre-treated wool
with reactive dyes: Muralidharan85
studied the use of different amount of
amines at the time of wool
pretreatment process to improve the
dye uptake during reactive dyeing
process. They treated wool fibres with
diethanolamine and triethanolamine,
dyed the samples with Remazol Brown
GR and Remazol Brilliant Orange BR
reactive dyes and after the dyeing
process, spectrophotometerically
determined the amount of dye absorbed
by the wool fibres. Data showed that
the use of these two amines increases
the dye uptake by 20 - 30% as
compared to without amine wool fibres.
It is also observed that the dye uptake
also increases as the pretreatment
solution temperature increased.
z Dyeability of hydrolysed reactive dyes
on wool fibre and blends: Yang et al84
studied the dyeability of hydrolysed
reactive dyes such as C I Reactive
Black 5, Yellow 3, Red 2 and Blue 19,
and compared the results with those of
Acid Black 1 and Blue 25. They studied
the dyeing of Nylon 66, Nylon 6 and
wool fibres, and evaluated the effects
of such dyeing conditions as
temperature, pH, and type and
concentration of electrolytes. It is
observed that hydrolysed reactive dyes
behaved similarly to acid dyes and can
be used to dye Nylon 66, Nylon 6, and
wool fibres under acid conditions.
Although a number of research work
was carried out on dyeing of wool fibre
by using reactive dyes, but still the
dyeing of wool with reactive dyes
required a standard process and method
to achieve a level dyeing properties. As
well as elimination of alkali is required
at the time of dyeing wool fibre with
reactive dyes to reduce the fibre
damage. The defects of reactive dyeing
are observed after the dyeing process
due to uneven pretreatment. So better
pre-treatment process is also
recommended to achieve level wool
dyeing.
Dyeing with acid and
premetallised dyes
The acid dyeing of wool has been
extensively studied. The generic term
‘acid dyes' includes several individual
dye classes. In Colour Index terms,
metal-complex dyes are included with
acid dyes that they are applied to with
wool from dyebaths in acidic or neutral
(pH≤7.5) conditions. Normally, the dyes
which are termed levelling, fast, milling
and super milling dyes are considered
as acid dyes. Acid dyes are so called
because these dyes are the derivatives
of organic sulphonic or carboxylic acids.
They are invariably manufactured as the
sodium salts of these acids in order to
achieve acceptable solubility in water.
Several workers have systematically
examined the effect of specific dye
structure on dyeing of wool fibre with
acid dyes88-91.
From the early part of twentieth
century, the mordant or metal complex
dyes have become very popular for
dyeing of wool fibre due to its ver y good
wash fastness properties, brilliancy of
shades and ease of application. As their
name implies, in metal complex dyes,
one metal ion commonly chromium is
complexed with other one (1:1 metal
complex dyes) or two (1:2 metal
complex dyes). Beffa et al102 has
reviewed on metal complex dyes
suitable for wool and nylon in detail.
z Effect of pH on acid dyeing of wool:
Weatherall87 et al studied the effect of
dye structure and pH on the acid dyeing
and their light fastness properties on
wool fibre. The study were carried out
at three mono sulphonated and three di
sulphonated dyestuff at three different
pH values 2.8, 3.9, 6 at 100oC for
1 hour. pH of the dyebath was
maintained by using acetic acid
solution. After completion of dyeing,
light fastness was measured under
MBTF lamp at 70, 140, 280, 560 hrs.
By the experiment, it is observed that
the absorption of dyestuff is more at
low pH level (2.8) as compared to the
di sulphonated dyestuff. On the other
hand, it is observed that the absorption

of disulphonate dyestuff is more at pH
6 as compared to mono sulphonated
dyestuff. It is observed that the pH at
the time of application plays a
significant role on wool diameter and its
damage. Qing92 observed that swelling
of wool fibre as well as the change of
diameter was found to pass the wool
fibre through a minimum in the region
of pH 5-7, and it is increased at lower
and higher pH values. It was found that,
for plain weave and twill fabric
samples, dimensions in water were
relatively greater at pH 7.2 than at pH
2.1. The change in fabric dimensions
was attributed to the fact that wool
fibres were more swollen at pH 2.1
than at pH 7.2. These results have
implications in wool processes in which
the pH of a fabric may be changed.
Acidification of fabric is likely to cause
wet, relaxed fabric to contract in length
and width; while neutralisation will
cause the relaxed dimensions to
expand. For example, in beam dyeing,
raising the pH of fabric during washing
off may cause the fabric to become
slack on the beam with a change in
liquor flow through the package. In
crabbing, the wet relaxed dimensions of
the fabric will depend on the pH at
which crabbing is carried out.
z Effect of dye structure on dyeing
rate: V Golob et al93 studied the
influence of anionic dye sorption
properties on the colour of wool top.
For the experiment, they used
Australian wool top and, for dyeing, they
involved four Bemaplex dyestuffs
(Bezema, Switzerland) an acid dye, 1,
and 1:2 metal complex dyes
recommended as a ternary combination
of C I Acid Yellow 128 (containing 4.2%
of Co), C I Acid Red 213 (containing 6%
of Co), and C I Acid Blue 335
(containing 2.5% of Cr). The wool top
was dyed by using at M:L ratio of 1:20
and 1:100. After the dyeing process, it
is observed that the highest dye
exhaustion rate and the level of all dyes
are obtained at the pH level 4 and the
M:L 1:20. But after achieving the
sorption equilibrium, no migration and
desorption process occurs that could
lead to unlevel dyeing in industrial
production, although all the samples in
the laboratory grades are level. From
the experiment, they observed that the
greatest colour difference occurs with
C I Acid Yellow 158, while practically no
differences occur with C I Acid Blue
335; so from this experiment they
calorimetrically evaluated the dyed
samples and found the CIELAB colour
values for exhaustion analysis. The
greatest colour differences occur with C
I Acid Yellow 158, while practically no
differences occur with C I Acid Blue
335; which is the least sensitive to
variations in the process parameters.
Their results indicate that the colour of
wool top is not just a function of final
dye sorption level, but also the entire
dyeing rate. When dyeing with a mixture
of two dyes in an equal ratio, the
changeable sorption properties of acid
yellow dyes at various pH values lead to
greater colour differences for both
mixtures. Bruce94, Sasaki95, Alexander96
and Medley97 published an informative
research work on the kinetics of wool
dyeing using acid dyes.
z Effect of internal lipid on dyeing
characteristics of wool fibre: Marti98
studied the influence of internal lipid on
the dyeing characteristics of wool fibre,
and observed the different dye
behaviours of wool fibres with and
almost without internal wool lipid. Two
dyestuffs were used for this
experiment, the only difference being in
the length of their chains; a shorter one
that was more hydrophilic (Acid Green
25) and a longer one that was more
hydrophobic (Acid Green 27). Maximum
dye exhaustion (about 98%) was
achieved at 70oC in extracted wool when
a hydrophilic dye was used, with 100%
of final exhaustion and a small
difference in the hue. However, slightly
lower dye exhaustion values (93%
versus 96%) were obtained at
temperatures over 85oC in the dyeing
process in extracted wool when a
hydrophobic dye was applied. These
different dyeing behaviours may be
attributed to the interaction between
internal wool lipid and the dyestuff.
z Effect of salt on wool dyeing
process: Yang99 studied the effect of
salts on physical interactions in wool
dyeing with acid dyes. For any salts,
their function of decreasing ionic
interaction is similar, i.e. increasing the
YARN DYEING
salt concentrations always decreases
the dye sorption. However, the functions
of sodium sulphate and dihydrogen
phosphate were not that simple.
Although dye sorption decreased with
increasing salt concentration at a low
concentration range, dye sorption
subsequently increased with an
increasing electrolyte concentration.
z Influence of chlorination treatment
on wool dyeing: Dragon J100 studied the
influence of chlorination treatment on
wool fibre. From this study, it is
observed that modification of the wool
sur face after treatment with Basolan
DC has a great influence on dyeing
behaviour. The results indicate that wool
chlorination contributes considerably to
the increased rate of dye exhaustion, as
well as to rates of dye penetration.
Considering the comparison between
exhaustion and penetration, it is
observed that chlorinated wool takes up
over 50% of the dye before there is any
appreciable dye diffusion in the fibre,
thus implying that surface adsorption
processes precede dye penetration.
Because of its more open structure,
chlorinated wool shows greater
accessibility for the dye, which could
compensate for differences in dyeing
behaviour in the application of dyes with
different structures and molecular
weights.
z Effect of Liposome encapsulation on
wool dyeing: Marti et al103 studied the
dyeing of wool fibre by liposome at low
temperature by Lanasat Red G and
Lanaset Yellow 2R. The dyeing was
started at room temperature and
gradually the temperature of the dyeing
was increased upto 85oC at the rate of
1oC/min. It is observed in the dyeing
that the liposome ecotrans exerts a
marked retarding effect at temperature
lower than 70oC favouring a final colour
for the wool fibre. So, sodium sulphate
may be avoided for the dyeing process
as a retarding agent. A number of
studies have been carried out by Maza
and Marti on the use of liposome
encapsulation on the dyeing of wool and
its blends104-112.
Commercially, a number of dyeing
range on acid dye is available in the
market to dye wool and silk fibre. One
of the first of these based solely on
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 59
YARN DYEING
acid dyes was Sandolan MF (S). This
range gives better wet fastness
properties than those of levelling dyes,
but to retain a high degree of migration
in order to give good level-dyeing
properties. These characteristics have
been achieved by both careful selection
of dyes and the use of a specific dyeing
auxiliar y, Lyogen MF (S). The system
gives good coverage of root/tip
differences in the fibre, and the high
level of dye bath exhaustion ensures
shade reproducibility101.
Another range of dyes based on a
mix of products having similar dyeing
characteristics is the Lanaset (CGY)
range. The Lanaset dyeing system is a
versatile and comprehensive system for
dyeing and printing wool, polyamide and
silk. The Lanaset range comprises of
modified, tinctorially strong 1:2 metal
complex, acid and reactive dyes with
high wet and light fastness. The dyes
cover the shade spectrum
systematically. Almost all fashion
shades can be produced economically
using simple combinations of these
dyes. Nearly identical dyeing properties
and high exhaustion result in excellent
compatibility and reproducibility. For all
depths of shade, Lanaset dyes are
applied at pH 4.5 - the isoelectric
region of wool, leaving the fibre in
excellent physical condition11.
Dyeing of wool and
silk blends
Dyeing of wool and silk blend is
normally carried out either on fibre
stage or yarn stage, and to a lesser
extent on woven fabrics to achieve the
uniform depth of shade. Both, wool
and silk, can be dyed with milling and
1:2 metal complex dyes; so both the
components of the dyes can be dyed
simultaneously in a single dyebath.
Intimate blends of wool and silk fibres
are usually dyed in solid shades, but
shadow effects may be observed
because of the higher initial rate of
dyeing of the silk component,
especially at low pH. The main
problem of the dyer lies in the
distribution of dye between the two
fibres, with dyeing temperature being a
crucial parameter in controlling dye
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 60
distribution. In case of acid dyes, it is
observed that, at low dyeing
temperature, the dyestuff are more
readily absorbed and desorbed by silk
due to its non scaly structures; so, at
low temperature, silk is much darker
than wool6. On the other hand, at high
temperature, i.e. dyeing at normal
wool dyeing conditions more dyestuff
is absorbed by wool than silk; so wool
becomes darker due to more
exhaustion of dyestuff inside the wool
fibre. Use of strong acid (low pH) and
salt (electrolytes) in the dye bath and
the time of dyeing also affects the
depth of shade of both the fibres. The
use of strong acid dyebath favours
exhaustion into silk, although an
acceptable partitioning of dye between
the two fibres to yield the solid shade
may be obtained6. The fastness to wet
treatments is lower with silk. Dyeing
temperature close to the boil may
adversely affect the tensile strength
and lustre of the silk fibre7.
In case of reactive dyes, it is ver y
difficult to dye both the fibres
simultaneously due to different
absorption and reactivity of wool and
silk fibres. The silk fibres can be dyed
at ambient temperature with high
reactivity reactive dyes, and after that,
the wool is dyed with different classes
Table 1 : Acid absorbency of wool and silk fibres 4
Fibre Equivalent number of
basic groups/kg -1
Wool 0.82
Silk 0.15
of dyestuff. If the fibres are dyed with
reactive dyes, improvements in wet
fastness properties are obtained. The
fixation of reactive dyes requires
alkaline conditions and occurs through
hydroxyl containing side chains such as
serine and tyrosine8,9.
Though silk and wool fibres have
similar chemical structures, wool has
more acid absorbing groups. Acid
absorbency of both the fibres is
tabulated in Table 14.
Acid dyes are the salts of strong
acids. So the attachment of acid dyes
with wool and silk fibre will be in the
same manner like hydrochloric acid
absorption (Table 1). For these reasons,
at the time of dyeing wool and silk
fibres in a single bath, more dyes are
absorbed by the wool fibre than
compared to silk120.
It is observed that the number of
amino acids in silk is only 20% of that
of wool, but there is still sufficient
number of dyeing sites available in silk
for dyeing purpose. Over the pH range
where wool is normally dyed, the
combination power of wool for acid dyes
is greater than that for hydrochloric acid
because of the relatively high affinity of
the dye anion for the fibre due to non-
ionic and electrostatic interaction;
similar considerations also apply for
silk. So, it is a ver y complex process to
dye wool-silk fibre blend in a single
bath. Ver y limited work has been done
regarding this aspect.
z Use of Syntan on wool and silk blend
dyeing: Shasha Sun et al113 used Syntan
to improve the solid effect of wool and
silk blends to dye with acid dye. In the
field of the wet processing of textiles,
syntans are mainly used as the fixing
agents to improve the wet fastness
properties of acid dyes on nylon
fibres114-115 and as the dye-resist agents
Amount of 1 mol -1 1 hydrochloric acid
absorbed/ml kg -1
Expected Experimentally
observed
820 850
150 120-220
to protect the nylon component from
cross-staining during the dyeing of
wool/nylon and cellulosic/nylon fibre
blends115,116. In this experiment, a
commercial syntan of Mesitol NBS was
from Lanxess is used. In order to get
the one-bath acid dyeing of wool/silk
blends, wool and silk fabrics with the
same weight were dyed together in the
dyebath composed of 2% owf dye, 2.5%
owf syntan and buffer (pH 5, HAc/
NaAc) using a 50:1 liquor ratio. The
dyeing was performed as follows: the

dyebath was raised from 40o to 85oC
over 45 min (1oC/min), and held for 60
min. The samples were then rinsed and
dried at room temperature. It is
observed that syntan has great effect
at the time of dyeing wool and silk fibre
blends using acid dyes. The use of
syntan exhibited higher dye uptake on
silk than by wool; the great influence of
syntan on the dyeing rates and the
apparent colour depth was observed for
wool and not for silk, in the two cases
of the respective dyeing of wool and silk
with C I Acid Red 249. Acid dyes were
more absorbed by silk than by wool
during the temperature-rise period, and
then desorbed from silk and turned to
be absorbed by wool during the holding
temperature stage. The apparent colour
depth of dyed wool was generally higher
than that of silk. In the presence of
syntan, the good solid effects of wool
and silk were obtained. Although the
sorption of syntan on silk was obviously
faster and higher than that on wool, the
dye-resist ability of syntan to wool was
greater than that of silk due to the
existence of the large molecular size of
syntan in the scale layer of wool, thus
wool and silk approached the same
colour depth.
z One bath blend dyeing process
using Neolan Dyes: Guangsi Luo et
al117 have done research on wool and
silk fibre blends in one bath dyeing
method. Luo used Neolan dyes to dye
these blends. Optimisation of the
dyeing was carried out by varying the
dyeing temperature, time and concen-
tration of different auxiliaries. By the
experiments, it is observed that the
best homochromatic property of wool
and silk in one bath dyeing was
obtained when the dyeing temperature
was 85oC-95oC, the heat preservation
time was 30 min and the amount of
sodium sulphate was 20 g/l. In this
process, the colour difference was
minimised by the optimisation of the
dyeing temperature, heat preservation
time and dyeing technology, choice of
the dye and the adjustment of the
auxiliaries118.
z Union dyeing of wool/silk blends at
low temperature: Zhu et al120 have
studied that the chlorinated pretreated
wool/silk dyed with weak acid dyes, can
produce uniform blend dyeing below
80oC, possibly under 70oC. Here, the
wool fibre is first chlorinated by reactive
polyamide-epichlorohydrin resins such
as Hercosett 125 (Hercules), 0.5 gm/l
at pH 4 at room temperature. After that
it is dechlorinated using NaHSO3,
2 gm/l at room temperature. In this
experiment, it is observed that the
colour strength of chlorinated wool was
much higher than that of silk dyed with
Weak Acid Brilliant Red 10B or Weak
Acid Yellow 6G, indicating that uniform
solid blend dyeing could be achieved
under 70oC. However, dyed with weak
Acid Brilliant Blue 6B, wool/silk blends
could reach union dyeing at the
temperature range from 70oC to 80oC.
Therefore, chlorination pretreated wool/
silk can reach union dyeing under 80oC,
possibly under 70oC. However,
chlorination treatment can bring on
environmental pollution; therefore, this
method is not ecofriendly.
z Two stage dyeing method: Clariant119
recommended two stage dyeing process
(Fig 1) for dyeing wool and silk blend
using Optilan MF, Lanasyn F and
Lanasyn M dyestuff. At the starting of
the process, the dyebath is prepared by
using 5-10 gm/l of Glauber’s salt with
2% Lyogen WSN (acts as a levelling
agent). After some time, dissolved
dyestuffs are added, then gradually
raised the temperature to 75oC. Here,
2% acetic acid is added with 2 gm/l
Fig 1 : Two stage dyeing process by Clariant for dyeing of
wool and silk blends
Opticid PSI (buffer). After 25 min, the
temperature is raised till 98oC and
YARN DYEING
dyeing is continued for 30 to 60 min.
But, as per the recommendation of
Clariant, some precautions are needed
at the time of dyeing wool and silk
blends in a single bath dyeing process:
i) Blend ratio generally ranges from
5-50% of silk
ii) Silk used in blends should be
degummed before blending
iii) Type of wool, quality and
pretreatment are also responsible
for the dye uptake
iv) Glauber’s salt retards the dye
uptake on wool in favour of silk
v) Optimisation in dyeing
temperature is required on case to
case basis for solid dyeing effect.
DyStar also recommended the use
of Isolan S, Alizarin Brilliant and
Supranol Fast dyes for dyeing of 50:50
wool/silk blends10. The dyebath is set
at pH 4.5-5 and is raised to 70oC at
which temperature the silk is dyed in
preference to the wool. After that, the
dyebath is raised to 90oC to increase
the dye uptake of wool fibre. The goods
are held at 90oC for sufficient time to
yield a solid shade. Lanaset dyes can
be applied to both fibres in a blend by
dyeing at pH 5 (95oC)11.
Future scope
From the above studies, it is
observed that research has been
published on the dyeing of wool and silk
fibre individually
using different
types of dyestuffs,
but a few is
published on the
dyeing of wool and
silk blended union
fabric. Although the
chemical structure
of wool and silk are
similar but, due the
presence of
different quantity of
amino acid, the
affinity of the
dyestuff for
different kinds of
fibre is different.
Different methods,
can be adopted at the time of dyeing
wool and silk blended fabric using
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 61
YARN DYEING
single bath dyeing method to achieve
solid shade after the dyeing process.
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Debojyoti Ganguly is an Associate
Professor at Department of Textile
Design, National Institute of
Fashion Technology, Bhopal, M P
Bhoj (Open) University Campus, Kolar
Road, Bhopal 462 016, Madhya
Pradesh, India.
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 63
 PRODUCTNEWS
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Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 64
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depending on the towards Zero Discharge of Hazardous
way in which the Chemicals (ZDHC), and eco-label stan-
clothing is to be dards such as Bluesign and Oeko-Tex.
used e.g. winter Smartrepel Hydro achieves a level of
clothing for use performance for cotton and synthetic
when engaged in a fibres and blends as yet unattainable
spor ting activity is with alternative non-fluorine solutions,
assessed diffe- and similar to C6-based solutions.
rently from every- Archroma's micro-encapsulated
day clothing for technology uses a repelling agent and
cold winter days. anchoring agent that together create a

perfect symbiosis of water protection,
breathability and durability. Its high
water repellence performance for
cotton, polyester and polyamide is
tested according to AATCC 22. Thanks
to the innovative technology developed
by Archroma's R&D experts, the finish
overcomes the limitations of
comparable non-fluorine products
currently available on the market, and
achieves a soft and bulky hand-feel and
strengthens the fabric against abrasion
and tearing, without any yellowing.
These effects combine to create a
durable, weatherproof garment that is
flexible, soft to the touch and not
sticky. Smartrepel Hydro's protective
properties last for more than 20
washing cycles, reaching the pinnacle
of what is technically possible for any
non-fluorine solution today.
The range comprises of Smartrepel
Hydro CMD designed for cellulosic
fibres and blends, and Smartrepel
Hydro PM for synthetic fibres.
Recron nonwoven
fibres from RIL
Reliance Industries presents Recron
nonwoven grade polyester staple fibres
for use in diverse nonwoven processes.
Through stringent and cutting edge in-
house R&D from Reliance, Recron
nonwoven grade fibres are engineered
for optimum performance in each
nonwoven application.
Recron nonwoven fibres are
designed to be used on high production
nonwoven machines. Right from the
fibre structure to the spin finish
dressing, all critical properties are
precisely controlled for a wide range of
nonwoven fibres, from highly utilitarian
industrial textiles to the toughest
carpets to geotextiles. Spunlace
nonwoven fibres are also certified for
use in medical and hygiene applications
Recron Nonwoven polyester staple
fibre is engineered to suit the processing
needs of most modern spunlace
products using dry-laid (carded or air-
laid) web. These fibres are workable on
high speed cards, low foaming type and
can be processed either alone or in
blends. They are ideal for producing roll
goods for use in various end-uses such
as wipes, medical, hygiene, home and
industrial applications.
Apar t from regular spunlace,
Reliance speciality fibre offerings are :
z Recron Hi-Cover Spunlace for better
surface coverage and thus lighter gsm
nonwoven fabrics
z Recron Supersoft Spunlace for softer
and light-weight wipes and end products
z Recron Hi-Absorb Spunlace for better
moisture management
z Recron Extra Hygiene Spunlace
for enhanced protection from
microbes.
Recron 3S fibres have been
engineered with an advanced
finish technology to cater to key
requirement of the speciality
paper industry including wallpa-
pers, different industrial filters,
tea bags, drip catchers and
battery separators.
Recron 3S fibres have the
following advantages :
z Excellent unmatched dispersion for
uniform wet-laid nonwoven process
z Increase in tear, tensile and burst
strength in combination with the
bonding material
z Modification in porosity and
dimensional stability
z Low dry heat shrinkage providing
greater dimensional stability to all
grades of paper
z Provides excellent wet strength for
web and finished product, required in
liquid filtration applications.
Wacker’s silane-
terminated polymers
Wacker’s novel, silane-terminated
polymers for the formulation of
PRODUCTNEWS
industrial adhesives and for
sealing flat surfaces,
‘Geniosil XT', make it
possible to produce materials
that are extremely tear
resistant and, at the same
time, highly elastic. This
combination of properties
unlocks applications in
automotive and mechanical
engineering that were
previously closed to silane-
curing polymers.
‘Geniosil XT 50' and
‘Geniosil XT 55' further complement
Wacker's portfolio of silane-curing
binders. Both grades are based on
silane-modified polyethers with a high
density of crosslinkable silyl groups
which cure to a tight-mesh network that
is very strong but elastic. Adhesive
layers and sealing membranes
formulated with ‘Geniosil XT' possess
high strength. However, they are also
highly ductile and will tear only
when subjected to strong forces.
Damaged material exhibits no tendency
to tear propagation.
New polymer for
transparent sun
protection
Nothing accelerates aging of the
skin as much as solar radiation. There
is particularly high demand for
transparent sun protection products as
these are easier to spread onto the skin
than lotions and provide a layer of
protection that is almost imperceptible
but nonetheless highly effective.
Bayer has introduced Baycusan C
2000 - this ethanol-based polyurethane
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 65
PRODUCTNEWS
film former can be used to produce fully
transparent sun protection solutions
that deliver a high sun protection factor
(SPF) and also feel great on skin.
Whether used in light sunscreen
gels, practical aerosol sprays or
nourishing sun oils, Baycusan C 2000
is compatible with all common UV
protection substances and is easy to
incorporate into the product. In
comparison with other film formers,
this polyurethane solution saves
manufacturers time, energy and money,
as it is not necessar y to heat or
neutralise the product.
Once applied, sun care products
containing Baycusan C 2000 are fully
waterproof and retain their protective
function even if users jump into the
water to cool down. Using this film
former, it is possible to create durably
waterproof products that are ideal for
particularly active adults and children.
Ancillaries
Datacolor
announces
CHECK 3
Datacolor, a global leader in colour
management solutions, recently
announced the launch of the CHECK 3
portable spectrophotometer. The
completely redesigned CHECK 3 builds
on Datacolor's history of providing
world-class portable
spectrophotometers for the formulation
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 66
and quality control needs of colour
professionals in the paint, coatings,
plastic and textile industries. The
instrument delivers industry leading
colour measurement performance, while
offering excellent correlation to
Datacolor's world-
renowned 600 series of
benchtop instruments.
CHECK 3 features a
completely redesigned
user-interface with a
modern and easy-to-
navigate colour LCD
display. The instrument
also includes an LED
illuminated viewing port,
enabling users to very
precisely position
samples and assure
accurate measurement.
The change to a
horizontal configuration
allows measurement in
height constrained areas. All of these
features contribute to improve the user
experience during operation.
With an enhanced two-way Bluetooth
inter face, CHECK 3 allows the user to
seamlessly transfer standards and
batches back and forth between the
instrument and TOOLS, Datacolor's
highly-regarded colour quality control
software. Sample measurements can
also be initiated from TOOLS when
connected via Bluetooth. These features
allow quick transfer of colour data,
enabling users to make colour decisions
more efficiently.
The high-speed USB feature gives
users flexibility in how they choose to
manage their data by allowing easy data
export to a USB flash-drive, while also
providing support for peripherals, such
as wireless keyboards and bar code
scanners. The ability to use these
peripheral devices in conjunction with the
CHECK 3 improves the user experience
by allowing for simple and efficient
sample naming and identification.
New AccuDry smart
and intuitive tumble
dryer
James Heal has launched the latest
model of its AccuDry, a leading
instrument for repeatable and standard
conditions for tumble drying. This air-
vented tumble dryer is used to simulate
domestic laundering conditions and is
designed to minimise operator time.
AccuDr y3 now encompasses 50Hz
and 60Hz in one machine, making it
suitable for use in more countries around
the world. An IEC C19/C20 type
connector has been added to the back for
ease of installation, removing the need to
cut wires and install new plugs to meet
the socket requirements of a particular
countr y. Ever y AccuDry3 comes with
European, UK and Chinese plugs, with
alternative options upon request.
An additional improvement to the
AccuDr y3 means that it
is now equipped with
an intuitive James Heal
UniController, a smart
and innovative interface
which allows operation
of the machine to be
programmed in two
steps. Test time,
temperature and cooling
time can all be set
quickly and easily by
the user, allowing for
customisable tests
suitable for a range of
standards, including
those for Marks &
Spencer, Next and the
Woolmark Company.
As this is the same

UniController as featured on the
GyroWash, Orbitor and Impulse, the
instrument is especially easy to use
for laboratories which already have
these products.
Other benefits of this improved
instrument include an easy to remove
compartment for the collection and
removal of lint, and a smart black
counter which has been ergonomically
designed to bring AccuDry3 in line with
the rest of the James Heal range.
QuickSpin system
Raw material represents one of the
most significant factors in yarn
production costs. Consequently, the
fibre material and the fibre material
composition that one chooses are
absolutely critical aspects regarding
both, yarn quality and the profitability of
spinning mills.
The QuickSpin System (QSS) is
the approved and highly advanced
fibre testing system, facilitating the
accurate forecasting of yarn
properties and their processability.
Remarkably, this can be achieved by
using even very small fibre samples.
QSS comprises of two independent
units: Microdust trash analyzer (MDTA
3) and QuickSpin unit (QSU).
It provides analysis and prediction
of:
z Dust content
z Trash content
z Fibre fragment content
z Number of trash particles, neps, and
seed-coat neps per gram
z Trash and dust categorisation
z Stickiness
z Hairiness
z Cleaning behaviour
z Cleanability
z Cleaning efficiency of machinery
z Yarn structure and appearance
z Yarn strength
z Yarn elongation
z Imperfection
Applications
z Accurate evaluation of fibre material
prior to purchase
z Easy, efficient and replicated
production of fibre blends and mixtures
from a cost effective perspective
z Clear evaluation of the cleaning
degree of both opening and cleaning
machinery
z Determination of nep sensitivity of
raw material. Processing of manmade
fibres to evaluate the effects of
spinfinish, spinning properties
and possible deposits
(powdering)
z Direct spinning of card and
draw frame sliver to super vise
the machine quality
z Open-end spinning trial,
varying spinning components
and parameters.
The cost-effective aspects of
the QuickSpin System focus on
selected raw material purchase,
the economical composition of mélange
and blends and machine setups.
Processing and
Machinery
Thailand's largest
vertical textiles
producer adds
Monforts Thermex
to its lineup
Thailand's largest
vertical textiles producer,
Thai Textile Printing
Public Co Ltd., has added
a new Monforts Thermex
6500 continuous dyeing
machine to its production
lineup, enabling the
company to increase
production and add new
fabrics to its range. The
Monforts Thermex was
ordered through the local
PRODUCTNEWS
representative, United Engineering
Overseas Ltd.
Thai Textile Printing was founded in
1973 and is located in the textile
production district of Samut Prakarn, a
province neighbouring Bangkok.
Undertaking bleaching, dyeing,
printing and finishing of fabrics from its
110,984 m² factory, the company
employs a little over 500 people and
works on a 24-hour basis, six days per
week, with three shifts per day.
The company installed its first
Monforts unit, a sanforiser, in 1987;
the machine is still operating today as
an integral part of the production line.
‘Installing the first Monforts
machine allowed us to develop our
range of textiles,' says TTP’s Assistant
Director Chai Her Ching. ‘As we are
pursuing a policy of quality production
and environmental responsibility, we
have subsequently invested in several
other Monforts units.'
TTP installed a Monforts 5000
stenter in 2002, a machine that is also
still in full production mode. In 2012, a
Monfongs stenter and Thermex were
added to the lineup.
TTP produces between 7 and 8
million metres of textiles per month, and
the new Thermex 6500 will help the
company to increase production by a
further 1.5 million metres. The weight of
the fabric passing through the machine will
range from 140 to 240 g/m², although the
company handles light fabrics ranging
between 85 and 130 g/m², and heavier
fabrics from 250 to 400 g/m².
Mr Chai says that one of the
reasons for selecting the Thermex 6500
is the balance of the rollers being
excellent and the temperature eveness.
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 67
PRODUCTNEWS
‘We know from experience that the
fabric will pass smoothly and evenly
through the machine, and given the long
runs and the tight schedules we have,
this is important for our reputation for
quality and reliability,' he says.
The Thermex hotflue is equipped
with indirect gas heating and features
the Econtrol process, which enables
dyeing time to be completed in a matter
of a few minutes.
The environmental and energy saving
systems are built into the Thermex help
TTP to comply with its own internal policies
and Thailand's environmental laws.
TTP is the country's largest producer
of cotton textiles for the Thai militar y,
producing uniform fabrics in various
camouflage patterns for the Royal Thai
Army, Navy and Air Force with anti-
mosquito protection. The company also
produces fabric for other uniforms
including the fire ser vice with fire-
resistant materials being a speciality.
About 70% of production is for
overseas customers, with the remaining
30% going to the domestic market. The
service extends to the finishing of piece-
dyed and yarn-dyed fabrics to customer
specifications. Most of the fabric
handled for continuous dyeing by TTP is
100% cotton, texture polyester/cotton,
cotton/nylon blends and synthetic fibre
such as polyester and nylon. The printing
side of production produces pigment
print, and reactive, cosmo, disperse/vat,
wet-on-wet resist, and pad-dry resist print.
The range of finishes is extensive,
including normal, chintz, peach, stretch-
ing, soil release, WR finish, UV protection
finish, easy-care, flame retardant, liquid
ammonia and Teflon HP finish.
AcquaZero
technology
Noseda offers the most complete
line of tailor-made yarn, fabrics and knits
dyeing machines. To the three techno-
logical levels Basic, Advanced and Concept
- an absolutely new one has been recently
added : AcquaZero, which assures the
lowest running costs with the highest level
of reliability and efficiency.
It leads to reproducibility, low
consumption of water, steam and
chemicals, perfect level, even and
Asian Dyer z June - July 2015 z 68
colourfastness, and the reduction of
laboratory activities.
The design, dye bath flow, injection
(HPF-HS) and flow control (SCR 4000)
systems allow the process of different
types of yarns and bobbins (no matter
their density and shape) at the very
minimum and constant liquor ratio
(down to 1:3, in case of PES on rigid
tube for instance). Loading can be
easily managed between 20 and 100%
of the nominal capacity.
Fabric beam dyeing
machine model TS-A
AcquaZero version - With
the same technologies of
the yarn dyeing machines,
this version allows great
load flexibility at the lowest
liquor ratio.
Fabric jet dyeing
machine model MF, SR and
SP AcquaZero versions
allow higher flexibility and
30% water savings when
dyeing at reduced capacity, thanks to
the design of the inner case and the
main vessel.
New Monforts
stenter takes centre
stage for contract
furnishing fabrics
specialist
Contract furnishing fabrics
specialist, TavelmoMovelta, replace-
ment Montex stenter increases speed
of production and provides improved
quality at its Belgian finishing operation.
Consolidating its two business opera-
tions, Belgium’s contract furnishing
fabrics specialist, TavelmoMovelta,
replaced its two stenters with a single
Monforts Montex stenter, ensuring
faster production speeds and improved
quality, ordered through local Monforts
representative Le Clair & Meert.
‘Advanced finishing is at the heart
of everything we do here,’ said Frans
Hellyn, owner of the highly successful
Tavelmo Movelta Group, one of
Europe’s leading manufacturers of
contract furnishing fabrics, and that
‘The Monforts Montex stenter is at the
heart of our finishing operations.’
Two previously separate businesses
within the group have been consolidated at
a state-of-the-art, integrated weaving and
finishing plant in Nijverheidslaan, between
the Belgian cities of Lille and Ghent. Both
yarn and piece dyeing are carried out at a
separate plant in nearby Sint-Niklaas. The
Movelta brand has been well known for
many years for its ranges of woven velvets,
while the Tavelmo name is equally
renowned for flat wovens and cheniles.
With the merging of the two
operations at the Nijverheidslaan plant,
a six chamber Montex stenter with a
working width of 1.8 m has been
installed to replace two older machines.
TavelmoMovelta generally deals with
fabrics that are much heavier than
those produced for apparel, in the
weight range of between 350-500 gsm,
and finishes such as flame retardancy,
moisture repellency and even chlorine
resistance for the marine market have
to be accurately applied and their
effectiveness guaranteed.
Specific products within the com-
pany’s vast range demand especially
sensitive handling, such as
polypropylene-based outdoor fabrics
where precise temperature control is
essential, or the latex back-coating of
caravan fabrics. In the treatment of face-
to-face velvets, the even backing applied
on the Montex stenter is essential for
achieving accurate pile anchorage.
Another new development is Easy
Clean finish, developed in collaboration
with a chemicals supplier. With Easy
Clean, stains on furnishing fabrics,
including ink, tomato sauce and red wine
can be easily removed with water and,
unlike other treatments, its effective-
ness is permanent. ¤
CALENDAR BOOKREVIEW
2015
July
14 Medical Textiles Symposium, Mumbai
Denim: Manufacture, Finishing and
www.ittaindia.org
Applications
September
Roshan Paul
02-04 China Composite Expo, Shanghai, China. Publisher: Woodhead Publishing Ltd; Pages: 612
www.chinacompositesexpo.com
11-13 Hightex 2015, Tuyap Fair Congress Centre/
Turkey. www.hightex2015.com
T his book provides exhaustive coverage of denim manufacture, jeans
washing, novel applications and
16-18 54th Dornbirn Man-Made Fibres Congress,
Dornbirn, Austria. www.dornbirn-mfc.com environmental impacts. It also contains
21-22 1st International Composites Congress, information on the history and social
Germany. www.composites-germany.org influence of denim, and includes the
22-24 Composites Europe, Messe Stuttgart, details relevant to the fashion and
Germany. www.composites-europe.com
apparel industry. The topics covered are
24-26 Techtextil India 2015, Bombay Exhibition
Centre, Mumbai. www.techtextil-India.co.in
comprehensive with contributions from
experts the world over, and the book is
October offered as an authentic reference book
06-09 IFAI Expo 2015, Anaheim, California, USA for any relevant information on denim. It
www.ifaiexpo.com
provides a thorough review of denim
27-30 A+A 2014, Germany. www.apulsa.de
technologies while maintaining a high
November level of technological content on
10-11 Turkish Nonwovens Symposium, Istanbul. spinning, dyeing, weaving, garments,
Website : www.edana.org washing, finishing and other
12-19 ITMA 2015, Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy. applications.
Website : www.itma.com
The author is the Head of Research
17-19 Filtration 2015, Chicago, Illinois.
www.inda.org & Innovation of the Department of
Function and Care at the Hohenstein Institute in Germany. He is an
2016 alumnus of the Institute of Chemical Technology in India and is a
Chartered Colourist of the Society of Dyers and Colourists in the UK.
March

Business and Buddhism

08-10 JEC World 2016, Paris, France.
www.jeccomposites.com
16-18 Indiatex 2016, Bombay Exhibition Centre,
Mumbai. www.indiatex.co.in Joan Marques
Publisher: Routledge Publishing; Pages: 180
April
10-13 GeoAmericas 2016, Miami Beach, USA. T his book explores shifts in
www.geoamericas2016.org business perspectives as more value is
25-28 90th Textile Institute World Conference, placed on soft skills like emotional
Poznan, Poland. www.tiworldconference.org
intelligence and listening, and
May introduces the reader to the principles in
03-05 IDEA 2016, Boston. www.inda.org Buddhist philosophy that can be
June applied in the workplace.
In this book, the author explores the
01-04 ITM 2016, Turkey.
E-mail : yusuf@teknikfuarcilik.com value of applying the positive
Website : www.itm2016.com.tr psychology of Buddhism to work
October settings. She outlines the ways in which
it offers highly effective solutions to
11-13 Filtech 2015, Cologne, Germany
www.filtech.de addressing important management and
21-25 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2016, Hongqiao, organisational behaviour related issues,
Shanghai. www.itmaasia.com but also flags up critical areas for
December caution. The book will prove a
03-08 10th India ITME 2016, Bombay Exhibition captivating read for students of organisational behaviour, management,
Centre, Mumbai. www.india-itme.com leadership, diversity and ethics, as well as business consultants.

Asian Dyer z June

Dec 2013
- July- 2015
Jan 2014
z 72 z 68