SAREX -Touching Lives:SAREX -Touching Lives.

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D y e i n g • F i n i s h i n g • P r i n t i n g • C o a t i n g

April 2009

International

Dyer
Est. 1881 www.international-dyer.com
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To find out more, please visit:

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NOVACRON S_ad_ID_297x210.indd 1 17.02.2009 13:04:49

Contents:Contents.qxd 18/03/2009 09:26 Page 1

Contents
COVER ADVERTISEMENT

International
Supertex-Sarex is probably the only Indian
dyestuff and speciality chemicals manufacturing
company for textiles with ISO 9002
Certification. We are one of the largest exporters

Dyer
for textile chemicals and dyes in the country.
We have created and launched some of the
most sensational concepts in finishing:
Blooming Agent, Super Soft Bouncy Finish,
Hydrophilic Cool Finish, Non Formaldehyde
Finishing Agents. We are also the first to
introduce zero-yellowing modified Amino
Silicone and Peach Finish.
A unique partnership with Bayer AG, backed
by a nation-wide distribution network, helps
us successfully meet all kinds of challenges.
Est. 1881 www.internationaldyer.com All the time.
The chemistry behind good feelings.

Sarex
Telephone: +91 (22) 2493 3818
Fax: +91 (22) 2496 4301/2493 8868
E-mail: sarex@vsnl.com
Web: www.sarex.com

PAGE 15 PAGE 34 PAGE 56

Dyes & Chemicals Techtextil North America Preview Machinery & Services

2 COMMENT 35. CONFERENCE REPORT

• Asia’s Optimism Holds Recovery Hope • Indian Textile Exports ‘to Grow at 22%’

4 INDUSTRY NEWS 37 TECHNICAL BRIEFING: COLOUR MANAGEMENT

• Technology Switches on to Supply Chain Differences
10 LOCAL COLOUR • What the Eye Doesn’t See
• Garment Industry – the Solution to India’s Needs • Speeding the Process in Colour Matching
• Breakthrough Technology from Changzhou Mills
• What Hope for an Obama Bounce? 42 TEXTILES & SUSTAINABILITY

13 DYES & CHEMICALS NEWS 45 DIGITAL PRINTING

• Pigment May Be the Future of Digital
19 TECHNICAL BRIEFING: POLYESTER • Growth on Growth
• Dyeing and Finishing Polyester
• Saving Energy by Controlled Adsorption in Dyeing 56 MACHINERY & SERVICES
• Hydrophilising Agents to Impart Comfort Properties to
Synthetic Fabrics 59 PEOPLE IN THE NEWS

61 SDC NOTES
31 TECHNICAL TEXTILES
• Techtextil NA Goes West 65 DIARY OF EVENTS
News:News.qxd 18/03/2009 15:06 Page 2

International
Dyer
Editor: Comment
JOHN SCRIMSHAW
Technical Editor:
DR IAN HOLME
Assistant Editor:

Asia’s Optimism
BERNARD CHYZY
China Correspondent:
ZHAO HEMING
India Correspondent:
DR RAVINDRA ADIVAREKAR
North America Correspondent:

Holds Recovery Hope

JOHN MCCURRY
Design and Production Manager:
GAVIN GIBSON
Editorial Design:
RICHARD MICALLEF
Display Advertising Sales:
DAVID JAGGER
Classified Advertising Sales:
JON BLOOM The global textile industry is going through turbulent times – but then, it gets
Advertising Design: harder every year to remember when it was any different. When was the last time
JAY FAULKNER
business leaders could plan their affairs more than a year or two ahead with any
Subscriptions:
MARGARET MARSHALL confidence there was not some storm in the offing, waiting to blow them off course
Managing Director: and force them to be more concerned with staying afloat than reaching the horizon?
MARK JARVIS
For Western textile interests, the process of globalisation has been long and
World Textile Publications Ltd. arduous. Many companies have struggled to restructure, often moving their cost-
Perkin House, 1 Longlands Street
Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD1 2TP intensive operations to Asia, only now to find their customers staggering under the
England blows of the financial crisis and unable to place their orders.
Tel: +44 (0)1274 378800 We already see this near collapse working its way back into the chemical and
Fax: +44 (0)1274 378811 (General)
Fax: +44 (0)1274 378812 (Editorial) machinery sectors, with sales and profits sharply down. And most alarming is the
e-mail: info@world-textile.net
Website: www.internationaldyer.com
accelerating trend, with figures for the final quarter of 2008 notably worse than
what went before. The Italian machinery producers’ association, ACIMIT, has said it
Printed in the UK by Thanet Press Ltd.,
Union Crescent, Margate, Kent, CT9 1NU does not expect a recovery any time soon!
For business leaders in the new Asian giants of China and India, more accustomed
Advertisement Sales Offices
to stunning and sustained growth, the downturn has come as a novel and
MAIN OFFICE: David Jagger,
World Textile Publications Ltd., Perkin House, unwelcome shock. The sight of empty factories and idle workforces was not one
1 Longlands Street, Bradford, West Yorkshire that China thought it needed to worry about, and yet there they are!
BD1 2TP, United Kingdom.
Tel: +44 (0)1274 378800 Fax: +44 (0)1274 378811 But China and India may still hold the key to eventual recovery, both because their
E-mail: djagger@world-textile.net
massive domestic markets still exhibit growing demand and because optimism and
SWITZERLAND, GERMANY, AUSTRIA & ITALY:
Hans Rauber & Bruno Fisch energy have become their natural state. Dr J.N. Singh, Joint Secretary (Textiles) at
Iff Media ag, Emmersbergstrasse 1,
CH 8200 Schaffhausen, Switzerland. the India’s Ministry of Textiles, was able to tell an audience recently that any
Tel: +41 (0)52 633 0888 Fax: 41 (0)52 633 0899
E-mail: iff@iff-media.ch problems were ‘mainly psychological’ – and India is still predicting 22% annual
JAPAN: Katsuhiro Ishii,
textile export growth up to 2012.
Ace Media Services Inc. 12-6, 4 chome, Nishiiko
Adachi-ku, Tokyo 121-0824, Japan
Tel:0081 3 5691 3335 Fax: 0081 3 5691 3336
E-mail: amskatsu@dream.com

U.S.A: Mr Bob Moore

PO Box 4032, Cave Creek, AZ 85327-4032 USA JOHN SCRIMSHAW,
Tel: +1 480 595 0494 Fax: +1 480 595 1749
E-mail: ramco@qwest.net Editor, International Dyer
INDIA: Mr Yogesh Jog,
Bridge Media, D-2/M-4, Amikrupa Housing
Complex, B/H Sweet Home Society,
Near Shreyas Foundation, Ambawadi,
Ahmedabad-15 Guajart, India.
Tel: 91-79-6622428 Fax: +91 79 656 3533
E-mail: bridge_media@yahoo.co.in

CHINA: Michael Hay

Ringier Trade Publishing, 401-405, 4F, New
Victory House, 93-103 Wing Lok Street,
Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2369-8788 Fax: +852 2869-5919
Email: mchhay@ringier.com.hk

Subscriptions (11 issues)

Worldwide £299.00
For subscription details and directory
availability, please contact Margaret Marshall
at World Textile Publications on
+ 44 (0)1274 378843.
E-mail: info@world-textile.net
Website: www.internationaldyer.com

© 2009 World Textile Publications Ltd.

ISSN 0020-658X

INTERNATIONAL DYER
News:News.qxd 18/03/2009 15:06
Industry News
Digital Printing in
the Spotlight
Conference to Feature Key Industry Experts
Details have been release of the
second FESPA Digital Textile
Conference, entitled ‘Rising
Above the World Recession’,
which is to take place on May 12
and 13 at the RAI Exhibition
Centre in Amsterdam.
The conference will cover
commercial and technical topics,
examining trends and opportunities
in the sector. Delegates will have
the opportunity to hear from an
international line-up of digital-textile
printing authorities and active
textile printers. These include Dr
John Provost – recent joint winner
of the AATCC’s Millson Award and
the technical editor of International
Dyer’s sister publication, Digital
Textile – and John Ellery, the vice-
chairman of FEPE, the international
outdoor advertisers’ association.
4 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Page 4
The two-day conference,
delivered in partnership with Digital
Textile magazine, gives printers
access to a wealth of knowledge
and experience in digital textile
printing, allowing them to evaluate
commercial opportunities in this
rapidly expanding market.
Frazer Chesterman, managing
director of FESPA, the European
screen and digital printers’
association, said: “We are delighted
to be running FESPA’s second Digital
Textile Conference. Last year’s
programme was a resounding
success, attracting over 130
delegates including established
textile print service providers,
recognised manufacturers, and
entrepreneurs interested in entering
the fast-growing textile sector.”
Mr Ellery will give the opening
John Scrimshaw
keynote address, providing an
assessment of current prospects for
the outdoor market in Europe and
other parts of the world, as well as
discussing the significance of textile
applications in these markets.
Other subject areas to be
explored during the conference
include the progress of digital
textile printing, the comparative
advantages of direct and transfer
printing, the environmental impact
of different inks used in digital
textile printing, Italy’s silk and
fashion printing ‘hotspot’, and
techniques for higher reproduction
quality in direct textile printing.
The conference moderator is John
Scrimshaw, editor of both
International Dyer and Digital
Textile. He said: “We received
incredible feedback from
enthusiastic participants in last
year’s conference. Technical
advances in the sector are
continuing at a rapid pace and
interest in digital textile printing
remains high, so we are thrilled to
John Ellery
be running the conference for a
second year, providing printers with
a ready-made forum to explore the
market, evaluate different business
models and assess the exciting
opportunities available to them.”
Visitors to the conference can
easily combine the event with a
visit to the FESPA Digital Printing
Europe 2009 exhibition, also taking
place at the RAI Exhibition Centre
(May 12-14).
The conference delegate rate of
€595 for non-members (€495 for
members) includes the full
conference programme (10:30 –
17:30 on 12th May and 09:00 –
13:00 on 13th May), evening
networking drinks and dinner,
sponsored by J-Teck3, at the 5-star
Hotel Okura in Amsterdam and all
programmed meals and social
activities at the RAI Exhibition
Centre. Further programme and
booking details are available on the
FESPA Digital website at
www.fespadigital.com, where
delegates can book now.
News:News.qxd 18/03/2009 15:06 Page 5

Clariant
Huntsman Textile Reports Loss
Sales in Clariant’s Textile,

HQ to Quit Europe
Leather & Paper Chemicals
Division have been hit signifi-
cantly by the tough market
conditions, pulling the company
into losses. Full year figures
show sales were down by 6% in
Singapore Selected for Market Proximity local currencies and 13% in
Swiss francs.
Huntsman Textile Effects is to move its headquarters Members of the Textile Effects leadership team are Clariant said both the gross and
to Singapore, in what it describes as a major expected to move by mid-year and will relocate to the operating margins declined
milestone in its restructuring. existing Huntsman Gateway Center at Beach Road. Vice- significantly, with weak growth
The headquarters for Textile Effects is currently located at presidents and directors responsible for Global resulting in overcapacity towards
the division's long-standing site in Basel, Switzerland. Manufacturing, Supply Chain, Human Resources, Finance the end of the year, and with a
Huntsman says the Basel site will remain a major and Legal will relocate there, along with the business vice- supply shortage resulting in
manufacturing, research and European customer-service president, directors and commercial team responsible for escalating raw-material costs in
location for Textile Effects, and will act as headquarters of its global Apparel & Home Textiles business unit. the Paper business. Restructuring
Advanced Materials, another Huntsman division. "Geographically, Singapore is an ideal location from efforts and cost-cutting
"This is an important strategic decision," said Paul Hulme, which to serve the markets in China, India and South-East measures had been insufficient
president of Huntsman Textile Effects. "The relocation of Asia, but also allows us to continue to serve and grow our to compensate.
the divisional headquarters and its leadership team is the business in Europe and the Americas," Paul Hulme added. Overall group sales were CHF
next important step in our restructuring programme and "Singapore was chosen from a number of possible 8.1 billion, compared to CHF
will ensure that the business is fully aligned to market locations, primarily because of its proximity to our key 8.5 billion in 2007. Clariant says
trends and customer needs. growth markets, the excellent international business this translates into a 1% growth
“The move will enhance our customer intimacy, environment encouraged by the Singapore Economic in local currency and a 5%
shorten decision-making processes and complement Development Board, and the availability of the high-quality decline in CHF. There was a net
our realigned manufacturing footprint and business- professionals that will be critical to the continued growth loss of CHF 37 million, due to a
support model. It also brings us closer to our sales of our global business." ‘CHF 180 million impairment’ in
and customer support organisation in Asia, which is Earlier, Huntsman announced it had completed all other the Textile and Leather
already the largest in Textile Effects." major elements of its restructuring. Businesses.

Vietnam
‘Ahead’
Vietnam will shortly overtake India
as an exporter of garments,
according to reports in the Asian
media. This year, Vietnamese
apparel exports are expected to
reach US$10.8 billion, compared
with India’s US$9.2 billion.
India’s Apparel Export
Promotion Council has said
nations such as Bangladesh,
Vietnam and China can
generally produce garments
more cheaply and are gaining
an edge over India. Vietnamese
garment markers have also
increased their share of the
US market, despite being
constantly monitored by the US
for alleged dumping.
Labels ‘Should
Identify Manufacturer’
EU Considers Traceability Proposals
All product labels sold within the EU should declare the
identity of manufacturer, to improve the traceability of
products posing health risks, the European
Commission has said.
Reporting on the EU consumer-alert network RAPEX,
Brussels called for mandatory rules saying all EU-sold
product packaging and labels carry such identifiers.
RAPEX often reports potentially harmful clothing and
textile products, coloured by dyes banned in Europe.
The Commission wants to ease tracing such products
back to their manufacturers, but some EU member
states lack rules insisting on this information: “If the
market surveillance authority cannot trace the
manufacturer or importer of a product found to be
dangerous, it [cannot] take fully effective measures,”
said the report. If “mandatory identification” was
required, there should be a rule insisting on
“information about the economic operator
responsible for the product's safety” being displayed.
This may include “the name, registered trade name or
registered trademark of the manufacturer or importer
[and] their address…”

APRIL 2009 5
News:News.qxd 18/03/2009 15:06 Page 6

Industry News

Classification
Second Date Proposal
A fast-track procedure for the
EU’s mandatory classification of

for Joint
new fibres has been proposed.
Under existing EU legislation,
new fibres must be officially
named and classified at EU
level, with ministers and the

Shanghai Show
European Parliament being
consulted, then member states
adopting the classification: a
laborious system. Now the
European Commission wants
powers to authorise new EU

CEMATEX to Repeat ITMA Asia + CITME yarn and fibre names itself.

The joint owners of ITMA ASIA + CITME have

announced a second show, after what they describe as
Gao Yong, president of CTMA, said: “ITMA ASIA +
CITME is a milestone event for the global textile
ECHA
a successful inaugural event in 2008. The exhibition will
be held at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre
industry. It epitomises the spirit of co-operation
among major textile machinery manufacturers.
Says ‘No
from June 22-26, 2010.
The European textile-machinery association CEMATEX
Moving forward, we shall be working closely to ensure
that the combined show will continue to be a
Problem’
and its Chinese partners – the Sub-Council of Textile beneficial platform for sellers and buyers in this The European Chemicals
Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery important region.” Agency (ECHA) says no
Association (CTMA) and China Exhibition Centre Group The first combined show in 2008 attracted the partici- downstream users of
Corporation (CIEC) – have re-appointed Beijing Textile pation of 1,368 exhibitors from 30 countries and chemicals have yet formally
Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and MP regions, and more than 80,000 trade visitors from 96 alerted it to substances of
International Pte Ltd as the exhibition organisers. The countries and regions. The event was sold out even interest that have not been
Japan Textile Machinery Association (JTMA) will before the official deadline, occupying all 126,500 pre-registered under the
continue to be a special partner. square metres of the 11 halls in the SNIEC venue. REACH chemical control
CEMATEX president Edward Roberts said: “From the CEMATEX says one of the key features of the ITMA scheme.
outset, the vision of combining two established shows ASIA + CITME show is the importance placed on the Companies including textile-
into a leading-edge platform was to offer textile protection of exhibitors’ intellectual-property rights. An chemical and dye producers
machinery manufacturers a cost-effective exhibition of active IPR Office will be available within the exhibition and their customers can
the highest quality in Asia. halls to help exhibitors take action against IPR notify ECHA via the agency’s
“We are delighted that the strong debut of the infringement. During the 2008 show 26 IPR complaints website of such problems,
combined show last year has clearly validated our were received and handled during the show and, where but “no substances of
decision. In today’s difficult economic market, it is patent infringements were upheld, the relevant interest have been identified
even more critical for businesses to consolidate products were removed from the show. In addition, yet,” it declared.
resources and we hope that we can help our industry two companies that infringed the show’s regulations Meanwhile, ECHA took its
members to focus their energies on this one major were cautioned and have been banned from exhibiting REACH-IT system offline
exhibition in Asia.” at all future ITMA and CITME branded shows. from February 13-16 to
introduce another upgrade,
improving a service suffering
from teething troubles. The
EU Chemical Research Plea latest changes involved ECHA
enhancing viewing and
A report from the High Level Group stressed the importance of communiqué. It added that the EU downloading information
on the Competitiveness of the specialist chemicals, noting that should take care in opening about Pre-SIEFs (groups of
European Chemicals Industry has they account for 29% of EU European chemical markets further businesses involved in pre-
recommended special research chemical sales. “More innovation and “assess the competitive registrations); viewing and
clusters of chemical-based and research and strengthening advantages gained by the searching pre-registrations;
companies to promote innovation networks and clusters are keys to elimination or reduction of import and creating and viewing
in specific sub-sectors. securing competitiveness and tariffs and opening import quotas joint submissions.
This EU expert group has sustainability,” said a group for…raw material inputs.”

6 INTERNATIONAL DYER
CSI 2009 FP Visitor Ad 19/2/09 16:39 Page 1

15 – 16 APRIL 2009
2009
HALL 1, BOMBAY www.chemspecindia.com
EXHIBITION CENTRE
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News:News.qxd 18/03/2009 15:06 Page 8

Industry News

Big Fall in Italian

Machinery Production
Both Export and Domestic Sales Affected
Italy’s textile-machinery production suffered an
18% fall in 2008, according to preliminary figures
issued by the trade association, ACIMIT. Total
production value is estimated at €2.28 billion
Euros.
Exports fell from €2.15 billion in 2007 to €1.78
billion for 2008. ACIMIT said manufacturing
companies in the world’s primary markets,
which include China, India and Turkey, were
currently not investing. Brazil, Russia, Egypt and
Bangladesh were the only significant markets
that showed an increase.
Italy’s domestic market also witnessed a 20%
fall in demand for new machinery. With decline
accelerating towards the end of the year, no
upturn is expected in the first half of 2009.
ACIMIT president Paolo Banfi said access to
credit was a primary worry. He said: “A recent
study conducted by ACIMIT shows that the
most critical issues facing its members relate to
the current credit crunch, with an increase in the
spread requested by banks on credit to
businesses, and a demand for greater
guarantees in providing credit lines.”
ACIMIT is implementing a promotional plan, in
partnership with the Ministry for Economic
Development and the Italian Institute for Foreign
Trade, comprising around 25 different initiatives
for 2009 – technology symposiums, partici-
pation at trade fair events, and training courses
in Italy and abroad. These activities involve
about ten countries, singled out as potentially
most promising markets.

Fuller Opens China Facility

Adhesives producer H.B. Fuller Company has opened a regional technical
centre in Shanghai Zhangjiang Hi-Tech Park, China. The new lab, part of the
company’s five-year strategic plan, is intended to promote in-market
innovation and foster customer relations in the Asia Pacific region.
This is the company’s first regional technical centre in Asia Pacific and
will house research and development, applications testing, sales and
regional leadership.
“Opening our first regional technical centre reaffirms our commitment to the
Asia-Pacific region,” said Michele Volpi, president and chief executive officer
of H.B. Fuller. “The lab is also the freshest example of H.B. Fuller’s deep
dedication to our philosophy of customer intimacy. To be an effective
partner, we are bringing sources of innovation closer to our customers’
doorstep and dramatically shortening their value chain.”
Footwear and textiles applications will be among those studied.

8 INTERNATIONAL DYER
 Which shade will make my
creation a fashion statement?
Archroma Color Management is a registered trademark of Clariant.
®

Inspiration has a new name: Archroma® Color Management.

In fashion, nothing could be more important than color. Get it right, and see sales soar. Get it wrong, and your collec­
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tion litters the clearance
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Phone: +41 it61right, fromwww.paper.clariant.com
469 7638, the design studio all the way through the supply
chain to the end customer. We combine vast expertise in dyestuffs, textiles and customized color standards with
state-of-the-art, web-based tools that keep color on track. No matter how far-flung your operations are, Clariant
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Clariant International Ltd, Rothausstrasse 61, 4132 Muttenz, Switzerland, www.textiles.clariant.com

What do you need?

Correspondents:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009
Local Colour
Garment Industry – the
THE INDIAN
garment
industry took
root during
World War II,
mainly for the
mass
production of
military
From Dr Ravindra uniforms. The
Adivarekar, India shift towards
Correspondent ready-mades the domestic
in
urban market and export-promotion
schemes, evolved in the ‘60s by the
government, helped the continued growth
of the industry.
The Indian apparel industry is now worth
around $15 billion and expected to reach a
figure of $34 billion by 2010. Moreover, it
employs over 8 million people directly and
perhaps an equal number in auxiliary units.
In the textile and apparel industry, India is
one of the few countries that own the
complete supply chain in close proximity,
from diverse fibres to a large market.
The garment industry is slowly being
phased out from most developed countries
and India is emerging as one of the most
favoured destinations for sourcing. Yet India
Breakthrough Technology
From Zhao
Heming, China
Correspondent
10
16:10 Page 10
still has only around a 4% share of the
world trade in garments, thus indicating a
huge potential that is still untapped and
available for India to explore.
India has many powerful advantages,
such as tremendous natural resources, a
large, able and willing labour pool, among
the best entrepreneurial talent and strong
financial markets. Growing this industry
will provide long-term solutions to many
of India’s economic and social needs. But
there is a danger in not acting quickly to
remove the many obstacles that effectively
‘The garment wet
processing sector in India
is highly fragmented’
block the growth of this industry.
One of the major drawbacks in India’s
clothing chain is the lack of adequate
fabric/garment processing capacity of
requisite quality standards in order to
respond rapidly to the quick changes in
colour, styles and finishes demanded by
THE TEXTILE cluster in Changzhou, Jiangsu
Province, is one of the most important in
China, and known for its vertically
integrated businesses – and especially for
its dyeing and finishing prowess.
In January, the National Science and
Technology Awards Conference was held in
the Great Hall of the People in Beijing, at
which President Hu Jintao presented the
awards. One of the winners was Zhao
Zhongxing, the chairman of Changzhou
Donggao Dyeing and Finishing Co, who
was honoured with the second prize in the
today’s markets. Garment wet processing
has been abundantly and explicitly gaining
in importance in recent times, with a view
to meeting the increasing challenges of
fast-moving apparel consumerism, in
terms of delivery schedule, cost, quality
and fashion.
The garment wet processing sector’s
rising importance is in its ability to
introduce a variety of aesthetic and
functional innovations. In recent years
there has been an increasing trend to
subject garments to a wide range of
performance-enhancing functional
finishes, in addition to the well-
established ‘wash’ cycles after
garmenting. Some of the more widely
used functional finishes include, but are
not limited to, Water and Oil Repellent,
Wrinkle Resistant, Antimicrobial, Anti-
ozonate, UV resistant, Fire retardant,
Moisture Management, Sensory
Perception, etc.
Unlike pure aesthetic appeal, these
finishes provide a specific functional
characteristic in the apparel and hence
make the garment more intelligent. This
improves the unit-value realisation and
also provides a differentiation strategy for
market exploitation. However, durability
national scientific and technological-
development award, for the company’s
fabric-modified pigment continuous
dyeing technology.
In Changzhou, further development of
the textile industry has been restricted by
environment pollution. It is estimated that
China might produce more than 700
million tons wastewater from the dyeing
and finishing process every year – which is
not only a large quantity, but also contains
complex chemicals that are hard to
dispose of. Thus, the wastewater-recycling
INTERNATIONAL DYER
Correspondents:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009
Solution to India’s Needs
will remain an important consideration, as
will cost.
The garment wet processing sector in
India is highly fragmented, with limited
linkages within the supply chain.
According to one estimate, there exist
65,000 garment units in the organised
sector, of which about 88% are for woven
cloth while the remaining are for knits.
However, only 30-40 units are large in
size. Barring a few exceptions, a large
number of small-sized units have
scattered across the major garment-
manufacturing centres. The average size
of the units would be around 1,000-2,000
garments-per-day capacity (enzyme wash
cycle), which is far lower than interna-
tional standards.
Laundries, with indigenously developed
machines that can deliver the basic
functions pretty well, lack the sophistication
desired for improving wash reproducibility,
enhancing efficiency or boosting produc-
tivity. In the Indian scenario, laundries by
and large do not have well-laid-out
systems, since these are owner-driven, and
while the owners have a high skill level,
they have a low knowledge level.
The information pertaining to wet
processing is kept secret by a few
from Changzhou Mills
rate is just 7%. It is said that high cost,
high waste and low efficiency are common
problems in the Chinese dyeing and
finishing industry.
According to Donggao, conventional
adhesive-pigment dyeing technology
poses many problems. First, it can be
applied only to a narrow range of light and
neutral-coloured products. Secondly, it is
has a less pleasing hand, while adding
softening agent will negatively affect
colourfastness. In addition, there are
problems of colour inconsistency, the cost
APRIL 2009
16:10 Page 11
individuals, who do not want to share their
knowledge with the garment industry as a
whole. There is lack of wash-development
updates or courses available and the
academic institutes, too, have chosen to
‘Industry not geared-up
to cater for effluent-
treatment requirements’
ignore this area until very recently.
On the environmental issue, the garment
wet processing sector releases large
amounts of effluent but is not geared-up to
cater to the effluent-treatment
requirements, as its enterprises are small-
scale. As the public’s awareness of and
concern for the environment continues to
increase, so the demands on the garment
processor to use eco-friendly processes
will intensify. This needs a fundamental
change in the attitude of the management
and the technologists, to take corrective
‘Zero emissions in the
printing and dyeing field’
of pigment, the unavailability of additives,
etc. All these tend to discourage the
further development of conventional
adhesive-pigment dyeing technology.
actions for a brighter future for the Indian
garment industry, and for exports in
particular. Hence, the success of the eco-
friendly processing of garments depends
on the firmness of the belief that: “The Air,
The Water, The Soil Are Not Gifts from Our
Parents, But A Loan from Our Children.”
Despite examples of automation, garment
wet processing has a large component of
manual intervention that is required for its
efficient running. Apart from product
development, the production facilities need
trained technicians to understand the inter-
linkages between machine-material-
chemical. Further, despite sophisticated
control instrumentation, a number of online
quality checks are in the form of visual or
tactile testing and hence necessitate the
requisite training.
There is a vast scope for improvement, but
proper initiation of mill owners and policy
makers in India is highly desirable if industry
wants to achieve operational excellence and
produce world-class products to satisfy
fashion needs on an economic scale.
Obstacles can be removed by focused
policies and actions, which need closely knit
and fully integrated commitments from our
leader in government and industry. The time
to act is now.
But now, while most experts on pigment
dyeing focus on ways to change the
characteristics of the adhesive agent itself,
technicians at Donggao have chosen to
solve the problem by modifying the fibre,
intending to develop a revolutionary
method of pigment dyeing.
According to Zhao Zhongxing, technicians
at Donggao have done a great deal of
research to optimise the fibre modification
and the subsequent adhesive-dyeing
quality. They have tested different pigment
Continued on page 13
11
Correspondents:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009
Local Colour
What Hope for an
Obama Bounce?
While the election
of Barack Obama
as US president
was viewed as a
reason for hope
for millions of
Americans, many
involved in
various segments
of the US textile
industry are
From John taking a wait-
McCurry, and-see attitude
North America to the new
Correspondent administration.
Much of this
attitude stems from several pending trade
agreements and differing views on how past
trade agreements such as CAFTA may have
helped or hurt the industry.
The change in administrations comes at a
particularly difficult time for the US textile
industry. The global recession hit the industry
especially hard during the last part of 2008,
with the sector losing 10, 300 jobs just in
December. The State of North Carolina alone
saw 13 plants close during 2008.
During the campaign last year, the then
Senator Obama was the only one of the two
major candidates who responded to
questions submitted to the candidates by the
National Council of Textile Organizations, the
leading US textile trade association. In
response to the questionnaire, Sen Obama
stated that an Obama Administration would:
monitor imports of Chinese textiles and
Sally Kay
12
16:10 Page 12
apparel once safeguards are removed;
preserve the yarn forward rule in free-trade
agreements; support the ‘buy America’ Berry
Amendment; increase funding and
enforcements efforts regarding unfair trade
practices; and use all diplomatic means to
end Chinese currency manipulation.
The responses seemed to generally please
US textile leaders, especially since the
Republican candidate, Senator John McCain,
did not respond at all.
At that time, Cass Johnson, president of the
NCTO, issued the following statement: “This
is a dangerous moment for our industry and
our workers. Our country is in the midst of a
deep economic downturn, the textile sector
is already suffering, and 66,000 textile and
apparel workers have lost their jobs during
the first eleven months of the year.
‘Many are pleased
with the Economic
Stimulus Bill’
“Now, the Chinese government is pouring
money into its textile sector in a bid to grab
market share. The new Administration needs
to send a message that US textile jobs are
not available for China’s picking.”
More recently, many in the textile industry
are pleased that the economic-stimulus bill
signed into law by President Obama includes
what is known as the new ‘buy American’ law,
which requires that the uniforms worn by
Transportation Security Administration
officers, who monitor airports and other
transportation systems, be completely made
and assembled in the US.
A change in administrations is always a
period of change for the textile industry and
association leaders and manufacturers
began preparing months ago. Sally Kay is
president and CEO of The Hosiery
The US textile industry as given a cautious welcome to
President Obama’s early initiatives
Association, a Charlotte, North Carolina-
based organisation that represents manufac-
turers and marketers of all segments of the
legwear industry. “The only constant in our
lives is change,” Ms Kay says. “As far as our
organisation goes, we have been preparing
our membership since June. We have been
conducting a series of educational webinars
on a variety of legislative topics such as
consumer products and safety laws, which
we are very involved with now.
“Basically, what we are seeing is that with
the new administration in place, certainly
more issues affecting the industry will be
coming down the pike, and now more than
ever our members need to remain engaged
and keep a pulse on what’s happening,
whether it’s employment issues, health care
reform, or environmental issues.”
Werner Bieri, president of Buhler Quality
Yarns in Jefferson, Georgia, is taking a wait-
and-see approach to the new Administration.
He says his company has been doing well
thus far during the recession, but the outlook
for the remainder of 2009 is uncertain.
“It’s a good question and it’s really hard to
answer,” Bieri says. “There have been some
positive signs and some negative signs.
“But the overall statements Obama made
before the election on the industry itself,
preserving jobs, dealing in a hard way with
China with fair currency and fair trade in
general, that’s positive. But we have to see
what actions are actually taken. Until now, it’s
just been rhetoric.”
INTERNATIONAL DYER
Correspondents:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009 16:10 Page 13

Breakthrough Technology from Changzhou Mills

Continued from page 11

types, colours and additives and experi-
mented with different processing
procedures. During the research, they
made certain innovations in the
equipment and processes, including a
singeing frame, cold pad-batch, high-
efficiency open washer, cold pad-batch
mercerisation, modified padder, pigment
pad dyer, pre-drying with infrared
radiation, drying with hot air,
thermosetting, and so on.
Consequently, they worked out a
process that can meet the demands for
different levels of colourfastness and
requests of specific standards, at the
same time solving the problems as rough
hand, and unlevel and inconsistent colour.
Most importantly, there is almost no need
of water during the whole process, apart
from diluting the pigment and cleaning
the machine.
When Donggao put the new technology
into production, Zhao found that:
compared with the conventional process,
the new one could save 100% of alkali
and salt, 94.8% of water, and basically
realise ‘zero emissions’ in the printing and
dyeing field. In addition, it cut 55% of
energy cost per unit and delivered 99.5%
right-first-time quality results.
If this technology were popularised
nationwide, say in 50% of all dyeing and
finishing mills, it could deliver savings for
China, every year, of more than 300 million
tons of wastewater, 700 million kWh of
electricity and 12 million tons of steam.
Yarn Dyeing Success
A similar technological success was
registered recently by Changzhou Jun
Hong Dyeing and Finishing Co Ltd, with its
yarn cold-pad-batch dyeing process,
which passed the appraisal of an expert
group from the China National Textile &
Apparel Council. According to Yang Lixin,
the chairman of Jun Hong, this is the first
time cold-pad-batch dyeing has been
applied to yarn as an alternative to
conventional package dyeing.
It is said that the new technology could
reduce the water consumption from the
120-160 tons used in by conventional
package dyeing, to just 13 tons to dye
one ton yarn. It could also save as much
as half of the energy and cut the
production cost from 8500 yuan per ton
with exhaust dyeing, to 3500 yuan per ton
with cold-pad-batch dyeing. The
investment is affordable and the process
is easy to operate. Jun Hong has applied a
patent and is preparing to promote this
technology to the state.

International Dyer’s

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APRIL 2009 13
D&C:News.qxd 17/03/2009 16:03 Page 14

Dyes & Chemicals News

Revolutionary Bleach for

‘Eco’ Pretreatment

Huntsman Textile Effects and Genencor have
introduced Gentle Power Bleach, described as a
‘revolutionary’ solution for bleaching textiles in a
more environmentally friendly way.
Gentle Power Bleach is a new bleaching
technology from Huntsman, based on ‘first-to-
market’ enzyme innovation from Genencor. The
peroxide-bleach system allows for low-
temperature bleaching of textiles at 65°C and at
a neutral pH range. By lowering the treatment
and rinsing temperature considerably, savings in
water and energy consumption of up to 40% are
possible, say the developers.
Huntsman says the new bleach represents an
important contribution towards more
sustainable textile fibre processing, while
delivering textile goods with enhanced quality.
On regenerated cellulosic fibres, in particular,
textile processors can obtain ‘excellent’ full-
white levels. Fabrics pretreated with Gentle
Power Bleach demonstrate an extremely soft,
bulky, natural handle, seen especially on
cottons, while the product results in less fabric-
weight loss and delivers brighter and more
brilliant colour shades with a higher colour yield.
“We are very excited to bring this solution to
market today,” said Stephen Gray, vice-
president of research and technology at
Huntsman, during the launch in early March.
“As the industry is evaluating how to improve
on sustainability, we can now provide
alternatives to existing technologies that were
non-existent up until today. We see this as an
important step forward, both for the industry
and the environment.”
Glenn Nedwin, executive vice-president of the
Technical Enzymes business unit at Genencor,
said: “We believe industrial biotechnology can
deliver bio-based solutions to address
challenges facing the industrial world today. The
collaboration with Huntsman Textile Effects on
the Gentle Power Bleach system proves that we
can create major improvements for the textile-
processing world.”
Denim Fading
In a separate launch, Genencor has released
PrimaGreen EcoFade LT100, a ready-to-use enzyme
product for denim bleaching and shading, where a
combination of a new laccase and a new type of
mediator is incorporated into one product –
offering the prospect of new effects, while reducing
environmental impact. Genencor says this new
technology enables bleaching at neutral pH and low
temperature, providing savings in rinsing water and
neutralisation chemicals, and energy.
“We estimate that with this new technology,
textile processors can save up to 90% of heating
energy used today in the denim-bleaching
process,” said Glenn Nedwin. “We believe this
represents a significant cost saving, which can be
further enhanced by combining the low-
temperature cellulase technology of the Genencor
IndiAge Super products. This means that the whole
process of abrasion, shade adjustment and
bleaching of denim can be done without any need
for heat and/or steaming in the process.”

Sanitized Silver ‘Suitable for Padding’

Sanitized AG has launched its new
Sanitized Silver antimicrobial
finish, which can be applied
without a binder during the
exhaust process or padding, on
the North American market.
Sanitized Silver is based on
silver salt (not metallic silver),
which is scientifically recognised
as having natural antimicrobial
properties. As a result, when
applied as a finish to fabric,
Sanitized Silver acts on the
bacterial cell membranes,
preventing their growth and
hindering their reproduction.
Sanitized Silver also carries
bluesign approval and Oeko-Tex
Standard 100 registration
(Classes I-IV).
The fact that the product can be
applied by padding extends its
use to soft and stretchable fabrics
that can only be treated by that
process. Sanitized Silver is said to
have a high washing resistance of
50 or more wash cycles at 140°F.
Sanitized stresses that this is not a
nanotechnology product, adding
that independent tests have
shown the silver particle size lies
outside the ‘nano’ range.

14 INTERNATIONAL DYER
D&C:News.qxd 17/03/2009 16:03 Page 15
New Health Fears
over Nanomaterials
Health concerns raised recently by a UK
Royal Commission, about the use of carbon
nanotubes and silver nanoparticles in
textiles, have now been echoed in a report
by EU scientists.
The EU’s scientific committee on emerging
and newly identified health risks has
especially focused on nanotubes, noting that
when they have “similar characteristics as
some types of hazardous asbestos” and that
“similar inflammatory reactions can be
induced by the nanotubes as asbestos.” For
this to happen, said the committee’s report,
nanotubes need “long thin fibrous forms
(length >20 micrometres), rigidity, and non-
degradability (biopersistence).”
The committee believes there would
also have to be a risk of inhalation for
health risks to be posed, noting “a risk for
mesothelioma [the cancer usually caused
by asbestos] cannot be excluded” – a
particular concern for workers processing
or manufacturing nanotubes.
On nanosilver, the report highlighted a
toxicity study where an “accumulation of silver
was observed in all organs examined, ie. blood,
brain, kidneys, liver, lungs, stomach and testes.”
Dow Launches
Speciality Surfactants
Three new surfactants have joined the
Ecosurf brand of speciality surfactants from
Dow Chemical.
Ecosurf EH surfactants are a new generation
of high-performance, readily biodegradable
products, designed for use in hard surface
cleaning, textile processing, inks, paints and
coatings, and agricultural chemicals. They are
said to have an ‘excellent’ environmental
profile, to be biodegradable, with low aquatic
toxicity, and to meet the criteria for the US
Environmental Protection Agency’s Design for
the Environment Surfactant Screen.
There are three products in the Ecosurf EH
APRIL 2009
Dye & Chemical Company Ltd
PERFORMANCE DYES & CHEMICALS
The report also highlighted concerns
about potential genotoxicity associated Tel: +44 (0) 1484 401221
with certain nanoparticles of interest to the Fax: +44 (0) 1484 401844
textile industry. It referred to three kinds of E-mail: sales@avocet-dyes.co.uk
tests, all revealing some results suggesting Website: www.avocetdyes.com
these substances could be genotoxic.
Using so-called ‘comet assays’,
according to the report, scientists have
discovered evidence of genotoxicity for
nano-sized particles of dye the Carbon
Black (CB); the dye fixant vanadium
trioxide (V2O3); and the pigment titanium
dioxide (TiO2).
Other ‘micronucleus’ assays have also
raised concerns about TiO2 nanoparticle
genotoxicity, while ‘gene mutation’ assays
have revealed potential genotoxicity
concerns for both TiO2 and CB.
However, the evidence is inconclusive, as
some other tests, using these same
methods, have led different scientists to
conclude that these nanoparticles are not
genotoxic. The committee has called for
further tests to explain this apparent
contradiction. These will focus, for
example, on whether the smallest nanopar-
ticles are more genotoxic than larger units.
family. Dow says all are excellent oil-soluble
emulsifiers with fast, dynamic surface-
tension reduction. They are low foaming,
have very low odour and a narrow gel range,
making them ideally suited for ultra-concen-
trated formulations.
Dow says studies have shown that fabrics
finished by silicone softeners emulsified with
Ecosurf EH surfactants exhibited improved
hand. Using real-world application testing for
textile processing, the wetting times and
penetration time for real-use concentrations
were much faster for Ecosurf EH surfactants,
relative to primary alcohol ethoxylates (PAE’s).
D&C:News.qxd 17/03/2009 16:03 Page 16

Dyes & Chemicals News

Disperse Yellow Brown

DyStar has introduced Dianix
Yellow Brown S-4R 150%
disperse dye, as an eco-
friendly alternative to C.I
Disperse Orange 30.
It says the new brown has a
similar shade and flare to the
orange, but with significantly
better wetfastness and good
build-up on standard PES and
microfibre, as well as blends
with elastane. Dianix Yellow
Brown S-4R 150% is also said
to exhibit lot-to-lot
consistency, good
dispersability and dispersion
stability, and low dust
behaviour. It is suitable for
‘eco’ clearing and complies
with all Restricted Substance
Lists (RSLs).

16 INTERNATIONAL DYER
D&C:News.qxd 17/03/2009 16:03 Page 17

Wool Tests Prove DNA Protection Power Levelling

Applied DNA Sciences, a provider of
DNA-based security solutions, says it
has completed the successful
application of its SigNature DNA
product at every stage of the
woollen-textile manufacturing
process in Yorkshire, UK.
This first phase of the ‘DNA in
Textiles’ project was fully funded by
the regional development agency,
Yorkshire Forward, in collaboration
with the Textile Centre of
Excellence, Huddersfield, and its
consortium of companies. Applied
DNA is now embarking on the next
phase – a multi-million-dollar
commercialisation programme,
which is also likely to receive
funding from Yorkshire Forward.
"We see the importance and
relevance of using DNA to
safeguard our brands and our
industry here in Yorkshire," said Bill
Macbeth, managing director of the
Textile Centre of Excellence. "We
need to protect the quality and
reputation of the textiles and
apparel we make. It's simple really –
we manufacture the best woollen
cloth in the world and DNA can be
effective in helping us to combat
the rising tide of counterfeit goods."
All the work was done in close
collaboration with local Yorkshire
manufacturers, weavers, finishers
and tailors. Applied DNA
demonstrated the ease of
application of SigNature DNA to
wool at each stage, and also proved
the ability of SigNature DNA to
withstand different textile-manufac-
turing processes, including dyeing,
scouring, washing and dry cleaning.
Paul Johnson, managing director of
collaborating company WT Johnson &
Sons, said: "DNA is real and it's
practical. Our clients demand the
highest quality and best-performing
fabrics in the world. APDN adds value
to our products and our business by
ensuring that our customers are
getting exactly what they paid for. We
look forward to making this available
to the rest of the world."
Agent for
Cotton
Protex, of France has launched
Prote-Gal EDR, a dyebath
additive said to promote
excellent levelling and compati-
bility when reactive and direct
dyes are used on 100% cotton
or polyester/cotton blends.
According to Protex, Prote-Gal
EDR promotes an even ‘strike’,
with on-tone uptake and build-
up of dyestuffs, without
affecting dyestuffs yields. It can
be used with difficult-to-dye
recipes such as bright turquoise
shades, where the product has a
‘compatibilising effect’, or

Huntsman Signs Russian Deal where the dyeing recipe

Huntsman Corporation has signed a co-operation
agreement with Russia’s Zavod Sintanolov, to share
expertise and resources to develop the Russian market
for surfactants.
According to the agreement, the Performance Products
division of Huntsman will market and sell 50% of the
anionic and amphoteric surfactants manufactured in
Zavod Sintanolov's newly commissioned plant in St
Petersburg. Customers will include multinational
detergent and personal-care product manufacturers
operating in the Russian Federation. The terms of the
deal and plant's capacity were not disclosed.
"We are delighted to co-operate with a local
manufacturer in the Russian market and this
agreement is a further expansion of our Europe,
Middle East and Africa (EMEA) supply-side network,
which already includes six manufacturing sites and
two joint ventures," said Daniele Ferrari, vice-
president of Huntsman's Performance Products
division in EMEA. "This agreement will also allow us
to continue to support our key customers as they
expand geographically."
"Zavod Sintanolov is very pleased to work with
Huntsman, with its industry-leading experience in
surfactant technologies and markets, and we look
forward to taking advantage of the many synergies
between our respective operations," said Sergey
Rybalchenko, director general of Zavod Sintanolov LCC.
contains dyes that have
different rates of strike and
affinity for cellulosic fibres
The product is said to be
effective in preventing ‘differ-
ential dyeing’ of chafed or
abraded cotton – which is often
seen when processing with high-
molecular-weight reactive dyes
such as phtalocyanines. Protex
says it is especially
recommended when making a
small shading addition to match a
target shade, where the product
can ensure a controlled and even
uptake of the added dyestuffs.
D&C:News.qxd 17/03/2009 16:03 Page 18

Dyes & Chemicals News

FR Consultation Japan Agent ‘Danger’ List

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has published on its website
(www.echa.europa.eu) the first public consultation on a proposal to
Expands
NanoHorizons has appointed
Toshinobu Hirohata as an
harmonise the classification and labelling across the EU of Diantimony authorized sales and technical-
trioxide, used as a flame retardant. support agent for the company’s
The Swedish authorities have given ECHA a comprehensive dossier on antimicrobial nanosilver
the chemical, as well as on the pesticide Epoxiconazole. Interested additives, marketed globally
parties have until early April to comment. under the SmartSilver brand. Mr
Hirohata, based in Japan, has
over 30 years of experience in
the textile business, with special
The European Commission has
classified an additional 200
chemicals as carcinogenic,
mutagenic or harmful to
reproduction – possibly limiting
their future use under the
REACH system. Brussels has
also added another 400

Boron Based FR Additive expertise in testing performance

Applied NanoWorks (ANW), a US-
based inorganic-materials
development company, has
launched FlexB, a boron-based,
non-halogenated flame-retardant
additive for nylon, epoxies and
water-based coatings. It says
material testing has achieved UL-94
V-0 ratings with FlexB loading levels
as low as 3%.
"FlexB is targeted at high-
performance materials where
traditional high load levels
negatively affect weight, strength
and other physical attributes," said
Josh Kunkel, business development
manager at ANW. "FlexB addresses
the industry need for non-
halogenated flame-resistance while
keeping polymer performance at
optimised levels.
"In many applications halogenated
FR additives are just not an option
anymore," Mr Kunkel noted.
"FlexB has shown increased
flame retardancy over traditional
FR additives by as much as 10
times," said Kyle Litz, chief
technology officer at ANW. "This
increase is due to the ability of
FlexB to bind into the backbone of
the polymer, providing four levels
of protection: off-gassing, water
productions, charring and thermal
shielding. This is a significant
advancement over current flame-
retardant additives that are simply
mixed in with the polymer."
additives and integrating them
chemicals to those covered by
controls under the European
into the fabric-production Union’s regulation on the classi-
process. His business is based in fication, labelling and packaging
Yamatotakada City. of substances and mixtures.
New Orange Pigment
BASF researchers and application specialists have developed a
new brilliant orange pigment, which has been listed in the Colour
Index (C.I.) as Pigment Orange 82. BASF will market the orange
pigment under the trade name Sicopal Orange L 2430 for coatings
applications and Sicopal Orange K 2430 for plastics applications.
The company says that, with its colour strength and its colouristic
properties, Sicopal Orange expands the colour space of inorganic
pigments. The pigment has high hiding power, is resistant to
chemicals and weathering, and is stable to heat. Uses are said to
include the coloration of polyamide for fibre.

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18 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Polyester Ian Holme & Carbonell:Santex Santashrink.qxd
Dyeing and
Finishing
Polyester
New Solutions from the World’s Top Dyemakers
LAST YEAR introduced fresh challenges for
dyestuff and chemical suppliers to the textile
dyeing and finishing industry. The costs for
raw materials, all utilities, labour and
transportation all increased, which led
dyemakers to increase prices by up to 15%
or more on some products.
The turmoil in the financial markets that
has led to a global 'credit crunch' has forced
textile and clothing consumers to
concentrate on paying their mortgage, food
and fuel bills, and to save any disposable
income to hedge against increasing job
insecurity. As a result, global spending on
textiles, especially apparel, has decreased
and even heavy discounting in the high street
has not prevented some retailers from falling
into administration.
Dyemakers in Europe may possibly close
some manufacturing plants or will maintain a
low production level through short-time
working, in view of their increased stocks that
have built up because of the economic
recession. Undoubtedly the major dyemaking
firms will have to restructure and refocus their
production capabilities globally, which may
mean greater emphasis on production within
Asia, to be closer to where some 70% of all
textiles are manufactured.
However, currency variations and possible
power shortages in various Asian countries may
also be factors that may help to decide the
future location of dyestuff and chemical
manufacturing plants.
Polyethylene terephthalate fibres were first
patented by Whinfield and Dickson in 1941
and, since then, polyester fibres have emerged
APRIL 2009
17/03/2009 15:37 Page 19
Technical Briefing: Polyester
as the major fibre used globally. In the modern
polyester-fibre production field, Teijin currently
has high hopes for its Purity polyester polymer,
which, unlike conventional polyester fibre
manufacture, does not use antimony and other
heavy metals as polymerisation catalysts.
Purity polyester polymers are made with a
proprietary polymerisation catalyst, based
upon titanium, and this is claimed to add
greater transparency to polyester products.
Teijin is aiming to make its Purity polyester
polymer account for 10% of global polyester-
polymer production (about 7 million tons) by
2015, the major end uses being polyester
fibres and polyester bottle resin. It is not
known whether such a development will
impact upon the disperse dyestuffs,
auxiliaries and chemicals used to dye
polyester fibres in the future.
Clariant has grouped its Foron disperse dyes
into four major categories, namely:
• Foron AS dyes, for automotive/home textiles.
These are disperse dyes with the highest
light and hot-light fastness.
• Foron RD-E with Foron E dyes, for piece
dyeing by exhaust methods, especially
polyester/cellulose and polyester/elastane
blends. These are disperse dyes with high
migration/levelling power.
• Foron RD-S with Foron S dyes, for yarn
dyeing, continuous Pad-Thermosol, and
printing methods. These are disperse dyes
with migration power and high sublimation
fastness.
• Foron S-WF dyes are the main range for Pad
Thermosol, textile printing and Clariant's
By Dr Ian Holme,
Technical Editor
SWIFT process. These disperse dyes exhibit
above-average colourfastness to wet
treatment, even on post-heatset materials.
A recent addition to the Foron AS range is
Foron Black AS-3LF, which is a successor to
Foron Black AS-LF. Foron Black AS-3LF is some
30 per cent stronger than Foron Black AS-LF
and provides a black on polyester with good
build-up properties. Importantly, Foron Black
AS-3LF provides a neutral shade under
different light sources, combined with low
colour fading upon exposure to light. It can be
combined with UV-absorbers such as Fadex
(Clariant) and complies with all the common
automotive light-fastness standards. Foron
Black AS-3LF has excellent colourfastness to
sublimation up to 30 seconds at 180°C.
Another new dye from Clariant is Foron Dark
Blue S-WF, which is ideally suited for
polyester/cotton-blend dyeing because it
exhibits an improved reserve on cotton when
compared with Foron Navy S-WF. Foron Dark
Blue S-WF covers a current colour-spectrum-
matching gap and is designed for use as a
base element for dark-blue/navy shades. This
new dye is suitable for both exhaust and
continuous (SWIFT) applications because of
the excellent exhaust behaviour, combined with
a very high colourfastness to sublimation.
M Dohmen GmbH has introduced its
Dyemaster polyester-automotive-fabric
dyeing system, which uses the company’s
Dorospers K disperse dyes, combined with
UV-absorbers such as Dohmen's Dorafast TR
liq or Dorafast AKS 300% liq. Dohmen's
Dyemaster system utilises a novel ternary
19
 LOGIC DYEING
One step ahead in (eco)logical auxiliaries

LOGIC DYEING is an innovative concept to process cotton knit goods and their
blends. A time saving one-bath isothermal scouring & dyeing procedure
enabling higher efficiency, cost reduction and a careful use of energy.

L ess Water, O ne-bath, G reige dyeing, I sothermal & C ellulosics

10868475_Tanatex_Adv_Dyeing.indd 1 23-12-08 09:32:30

Polyester Ian Holme & Carbonell:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009 15:37 Page 21

colour combination of duller components

that possess similar fading characteristics
and are closer to traditional automotive-
interior colours, such as beige and grey.
Dohmen's Dyemaster system uses

• Dorospers Grey KGV

• Dorospers Orange KR and
• Dorospers Red KAS

for dyeing beige/grey colours. These are

suited to alkaline dyeing conditions at pH 9-10,
buffered using Dohmen's Domapal ELD 70% liq,
which provides a pH of 9.3-9.5 together with
excellent sequestering power for water
hardness and heavy-metal ions. An alkali-stable
dispersing agent, Dispertan BA, and a levelling
agent, Doregal SFD, are used in the Dyemaster
system. Doregal SFD has no negative effects on
the colourfastness to light of the Dorospers K
dyes. For the important navy and black shades,
Dohmen uses Dorospers Navy Blue KGRL and
Dorospers Black KJE respectively.
For exhaust dyeing of Dorospers K disperse
dyes, the use of Dorafast AKS 300% liq, an
anionic UV-absorber with good on-tone charac-
teristics, is recommended by Dohmen.
However, for pad-thermofix dyeing of seat
belts, Dorafast TR liq combines the highest hot-
light-fastness properties with excellent on-tone
fading and dispersion stability.
DyStar now produces a comprehensive
range of Dianix disperse dyes for dyeing
polyester, which are grouped appropriately DyStar's econfidence™ commitment promises that its Dianix dyes have a sound eco-profile
as follows:

• Dianix XF and SF dyes, to meet the most
demanding retailer and brand specifications
for high wash- and wet-fast sportswear,
apparel and workwear
• Dianix AM dyes, to meet the light-fastness
specifications of all leading car-makers
worldwide, and all other light-fastness
requirements for home and outdoor textiles
• Dianix S and Dianix Micro Liquids, to
meet the high sublimation-fastness
requirements in apparatus and thermosol
dyeing and printing
• Dianix CC dyes, to meet the requirements
on right-first-time performance and cost for
articles with standard colour fastness in
exhaust and continuous dyeing
• Dianix E-PLUS dyes, to meet the
requirements for application properties and
colour fastness, particularly outstanding light
fastness in pale shades, on lightweight
woven fabrics
• Dianix PLUS dyes to meet the requirements
for application properties and colour
fastness, in medium and deep shades on
lightweight woven fabrics
• Dianix Luminous and Brilliant dyes, to
meet the specifications for high-visibility
workwear (EN 471) and high-visibility leisure
and sportswear (EN 1150), as well used for
fashion shades
• Dianix Favorites, to meet the
requirements for application properties and
standard colour fastnesses in a wide variety
of end-uses
DyStar's econfidence™ commitment
promises that its Dianix high-quality disperse
dyes are produced via clean manufacturing
processes with a sound eco-profile, thereby
providing clean, effective and reliable dyes for
right-first-time dyeing of polyester fibres, yarns
and fabrics.
Recent additions to DyStar's Dianix XF/SF
ranges are Dianix Navy XF-AR and Dianix Black
XF-AR. These are two novel molecular structures
that offer excellent stability in the dyebath as
well as good wet-fastness properties. DyStar
has launched these dyes for the leading
sportswear brands and retailers, where their
inbuilt performance/ecology properties meet the
most exacting requirements of colourfastness
and productivity.
To complement DyStar's market-leading
Dianix SF red disperse dyes, two new
dyestuffs have been introduced for ternary
combinations. Dianix Golden Yellow SF and
Dianix Blue SF may thus be used to provide
the highest levels of colourfastness on
polyester in deep ternary shades.
As an addition to the well-established Dianix
AM sub-ranges for automotive PES textiles,
DyStar has recently launched Sera Fast P-APS
new, a UV-absorber for a wide range of
applications. Sera Fast P-APS new is said to
have excellent physical properties and to offer
Continued on page 24

APRIL 2009 21
Polyester Ian Holme & Carbonell:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009 15:37 Page 22

Technical Briefing: Polyester

Saving Energy
by Controlled
Adsorption in Dyeing
By Prof Dr Ing Jose Carbonell and Dipl Ing Pablo Carbonell-Klempt

Introduction
Textile dyeing is highly energy-intensive, and will remain so in the future.
The scope for energy saving by means of mechanical innovation will soon
be exhausted. Even ‘cold dyeing’, possibly with the aid of quality-
enhancing dye carriers, has been discussed and largely rejected.
Since the dyeing strategy known as ‘controlled adsorption’ was
devised, it has become increasingly clear that high-temperature
dyeing is a process justified only in order to achieve an acceptable
degree of levelness by means of migration. The real difference
between a dyeing strategy based on migration and one based on
controlled adsorption is shown in Figs 1 and 2.
The rate of diffusion of dyestuffs with a shorter migration time is, as is
well known, higher than the rate of diffusion of such dyestuffs where an
acceptable levelness is only possible with longer migration times. Along
with this statement, it is a known fact that fastnesses and migration
capacities run in opposite directions. Therefore it seems quite obvious that Fig.1.- Illustration of the migration strategy
a dyeing strategy based on controlled adsorption was not consciously and
widely adopted in practice, unless dyeing acrylic fibres with cationic dyes,
due to their insufficient migration capability on this kind of substrate.
One of the clearest differences between application methods based on
the principle of migration and based on controlled adsorption is as follows:
when interrupting the dyeing process at any intermediate stage of the dye
absorption (build-up), the interrupted dyeings show understandable
differences in colour depth but valid levelness. When dyeing according to
the principle of migration, the required levelness is attained only after
migration. Not for nothing is the strategy based on controlled adsorption
also called ‘getting quality right from the start’.

Data Determination and Evaluation to

Parameterise Dyeing Procedures
Various approaches have been proposed to support controlled adsorption
when dyeing polyester fibres with disperse dyes, virtually all with the
purpose of “identifying the critical temperature zones of disperse dyes on Fig. 2: Illustration of controlled adsorption strategy

different substrates”, in order to keep the most appropriate heating

gradients sufficiently low in the corresponding temperature intervals. Such
recommendations were very useful when dyeing with true disperse dyes
with the required logic. Here we can mention our references1,2,3, as well as
proposals from such as Bellini, Mathis, Tecnorama, etc, all of them
concerning on-line colorimetric measurements during dyeing in lab
devices, always with the purpose of generating exhaustion curves in order
to visualise critical temperature zones.
To avoid loss of time, we defined the units ‘contact’ and ‘tolerated
exhaustion per contact’ and thus developed what was known as the
‘Suproma-Data-System’ by Sandoz, using quantifiable information4. It
allows predetermination of exact linear exhaustion, thus enabling a
simulation of the required dyeing process. The basic algorithms of this

22 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Polyester Ian Holme & Carbonell:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009
Fig. 3: Effect of PES Fibre macromolecular degree of
orientation on dyeing activation energy
system are described under references5,6,7. A further development of this
system has been used in various plants for more than 15 years now.
The gathered parameter values, based on contacts, control and monitor
the dyeing-process steps by means of specially developed self-regulating
controls, where the unit time has been replaced by the unit contact. Such
control devices are manufactured by THEN, among others, according to
accurate system specifications. It is important to live up to the principle:
“The goods should not suffer from dyeing”; thus the algorithms of the
devices have to observe limit values that may vary specifically for each
fabric.
Another variable that should be taken into account for processes based
on controlled adsorption is the so-called fixation time. When focusing on
the dyeing of polyester fibres with disperse dyes, it becomes necessary to
better define what ‘fixation time’ means. Let us call it ‘dwell time at dyeing
temperature’. We must consider that disperse dyes are not fixated on
polyester fibres. Such dwell times must primarily ensure that dye
penetration is being carried far enough to prevent a colour change from
being influenced by an extended dwell time. In other words, the dwell time
must be observed at all costs in order to avoid adds.
The statement that the dwell time should be maintained long enough to
attain complete dye penetration is not correct. The important thing is to
avoid extra dwell time influencing the final colour.
As the dwell time depends on the final temperature, and since there is
no need for any migration in controlled-adsorption dyeing systems, the
pair of values time/temperature is very flexible in practice, depending most
of all on substrate and dye recipe. These dwell time are frequently referred
to as ‘fixation times’, which can be quite misleading.
Let us assume that on a specific substrate (fibre) the appropriate dwell
time for colour stabilisation at 135°C (T1) is 10 minutes (Z1). Then the
advisable dwell time for a final temperature of 120°C (T2) is calculated
using the following function:
Z2 = Z1 * EXP(((1/(273 + T2)) – (1/(273 + T1))) * 13389.3) = 34.993 minutes
The calculated dwell time Z2 was exactly right to maintain the final
colour of the applied dye recipe as stabilised during 10 minutes at 135°C.
The constant 13,389.3 is applicable for regular PES staple fibre. For a highly
oriented PES filament it would be approx. 25% higher; for a low oriented
PES fibre, approx. 10-15% lower (Fig. 3).
The dyeing of polyester fibres with disperse dyes is, in reality, a solution
of lipophilic products in a lipophilic mass. The solution changes with
APRIL 2009
15:37 Page 23
temperature but the fastness of such dyes does not depend on the above-
mentioned dwell temperature. The only temperature-sensitive values are
the rates of diffusion at which the colour molecules move within the fibre,
as well as the dye solubility in the fibre. Temperature can have an effect on
the equilibrium of the dye distribution as a function of both dye solubilities:
in the liquor and in the fibre. Fastness can only be degraded by two factors:
1. Possible super-saturation of the fibre when the final temperature cannot
adsorb the total possible soluble amount of dyestuff, which is why the
remaining dye molecules – even particles – are left on the fibre surface.
2. Possible deposit of dispersed agglomerates that materialise due to
insufficient dispersion stability.
The frequently used formula, “Yes, but this dyeing has been reductively
rewashed”, has to be carefully interpreted: a reductive rewash may destroy
and remove the residual dyestuffs mentioned under 1, but not agglom-
erates sticking to the fibre surface, where the dispersing agents are not
dispersing anymore, but rather acting as a protection or a shield and thus
preventing the liquor from mingling with the pigment. If agglomerates
could be so easily removed by means of reductive liquor, even the dyeing
machines would be ‘perpetually’ clean…We must not forget: for agglom-
erated dispersed dyes, the one and only thing they can do is to stick.
In addition to the above-mentioned possible causes of fastness
degradation, there are also those that are well known and arise from the
properties of chemical-dyestuff constitution. Such properties are not
affected by the final or dwell temperature of the dyeing. One can also see
that wet fastness is enhanced when the diffusion coefficient tends towards
zero and does not change with the dwell temperature. Sublimation and
light fastness are primarily dependent on the dyestuff structure. The more
lipophilic the dyestuff, and also the larger the molecular volume of the
dyestuff, the more wet fastnesses are generally enhanced.
Consequences of the Above Facts
As we consider the above facts, try to interconnect all of them and analyse
the corresponding interdependencies, we soon realise that not only does
the selection of the dyeing temperature depend on the substrate (the limit
that the fibre withstands can withstand without damage), it may actually
depend on the requirements of the applied dyeing recipe. This informs us
that the known limit temperatures of each fibre type do not have to be
regarded as the dyeing temperature. We may dye all colours at this
temperature, but we do not have to, whereby a significant contribution to
23
Polyester Ian Holme & Carbonell:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009 15:37 Page 24

Technical Briefing: Polyester

additionally the drop from 135°C to 120°C, definitely needs at least as

much time as the extended dwell time of 35 min. at 120°C.
But benefits of maintaining the lower temperature include:

• Energy and steam saving

• Cooling water saving
• Dyeing time is not longer (can even be shorter)
• Final fastnesses are not negatively affected
• Lower oligomeric deposits
• Critical cross points in highly hard twisted yarns are much better covered
than at high temperatures

Fig. 4.- Areas with A: High dyestuff offer / B: Low dyestuff offer
energy saving can be made. It is necessary to accurately determine at
which minimum temperature sufficient bath exhaustion is achieved without
causing detrimental effect on colour reproducibility.
An essential precondition is to determine the most appropriate
temperature scheme for controlled dyestuff adsorption, so that the
required colour levelness may be achieved without a migration phase.
In the above example, where the final dyestuff adsorption achieved is
the same after 35 min. at 120°C as after 10 min. at 135°C, it is easy to see
that in the latter case the heat increase from 120°C to 135°C, plus
These critical, mostly brighter and even white cross points are the
consequence of uneven liquor circulation in areas where liquor and goods
are in direct contact, compared with those areas where the points of
pressure decelerate the bath circulation. In other words, there are areas
with high dyestuff offer and areas with low dyestuff offer. In both areas the
fibres have the same dyestuff demand – which is temperature-sensitive –
so that in the hidden areas the demand is considerably higher than the
offer (Fig 4). Therefore, due to the high demand in the A areas, there is a
comparatively rapid decrease in dyestuff concentration in the bath, so that
the amount of dyestuff in the B areas is never sufficient to achieve the
same colour depth as in the A areas.
By decreasing the dwell temperature, the dyestuff demand in the B
areas can harmonise with the dyestuff offer that is realistically possible,
whereby both areas become progressively and homogeneously darker.
In certain cases, we observe that the aspect and structure of goods

Dyeing and Finishing Polyester

Continued from page 21
very high product stability and lowest possible
influence on the dispersion stability of dyes.
Dianix Yellow Brown S-4R 150% is a new
member in the Dianix S range. It is an
alternative to C. I. Disperse Orange 30, with a
clean eco-profile and significantly improved
wet-fastness properties, particularly on
microfibres and polyester/elastane blends.
DyStar offers a range of water-saving and
energy-saving options for environmentally
friendly processing with Dianix dyes and Sera
process auxiliaries. There is a growing demand
for Optidye PES – DyStar's program for
optimised dyeing of polyester. It has been
demonstrated that the use of Dianix dyes with
Sera process auxiliaries, in combination with
DyStar's Optidye PES program, provides
benefits both in process savings and in
productivity. Operating a scour/dyeing process
using Optidye PES and optimising the
reductive-clearing stage is claimed to yield the
following advantages:
Benefits in process savings
• 43% electricity
• 46% steam
• 50% water
• 39% process time
• 38% cost in total
Benefits in productivity
• 58% productivity increase
• higher right-first-time dyeing performance
achieved with Optidye PES.
In addition DyStar claims that there is less
environmental impact because of the use of
alternatives to sodium dithionite (hydrosulphite)
in reduction clearing. SeraCon P-RCN is used
with caustic soda under alkaline conditions and
Sera Con P-ACT is used in acid reduction
clearing at pH 3.5-4.
The introduction of novel finishes to improve
the performance of polyester and polyester-
blend fabrics, especially for apparel end uses, is
gaining in importance. Sarex (India) has
introduced Coolcot-Dry, a new finish developed
for improved moisture management in
polyester and polyester-blend fabrics that are to
be worn next to the skin. Coolcot-Dry has been
chemically engineered to enhance the
absorbency of treated fabrics so that moisture is
absorbed from the skin and transmitted rapidly
to the fabric surface. Rapid evaporation of the
moisture then occurs, which avoids garments
clinging to the skin and hence enhances the
level of wearer comfort.
Static generation in polyester fabrics can
create many problems, particularly in relatively
dry atmospheres. Sarex has developed Fabfeel
Conc, a specially developed product to
decrease static generation in polyester
fabrics. The hydrophilic nature of Fabfeel
Conc is also claimed to promote improved
levels of wearer comfort.
Clariant has introduced Afilan AKT liq, which
is a product that can impart antistatic
properties to polyester staple fibres, as well as
to other synthetic staple fibres, eg.
polypropylene, polyamide or acrylic fibres.
Application of Afilan AKT liq can be conducted
by spraying, padding or immersion techniques
and it usually does not yellow white goods that
have to be dried or thermoset at high temper-
atures. Afilan AKT liq has been engineered to
exert no effect upon the shade or colour
fastness of dyed fibres and the product does
not give rise to thermomigration problems. ID

24 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Polyester Ian Holme & Carbonell:Santex Santashrink.qxd
Fig.5.- Regular dyeing parameterization where limit temperature = 135 ºC
Fig.7.- Migration Strategy
dyed at low temperature are different from those of goods dyed at limit
temperature. In piece-goods this difference can be counterbalanced by
applying, for instance, appropriate finishing stages. In the case of yarn,
preliminary tests should be carried out, if in doubt.
Fig. 5 shows a regular dyeing parameterisation for a half-darker grey
dyeing, where the dwell temperature and the limit temperature are
identical for the yarn concerned. Hence, an absolutely controlled linear
adsorption speed is guaranteed. Fig. 6 shows the resulting dyeing parame-
terisation for dyeing at 120°C. The temperature of 120°C was chosen as
the minimum temperature that allows complete dyestuff adsorption at the
dye concentration used (dyestuff exhaustion to support colour
reproducibility). As the parameterisation allows controlled adsorption, dye
levelness is correct from the beginning of the dwell time and therefore
assured until the isotherm has finished.
Characterisation of Levelling Agents for Dyeing
Polyester According to a Strategy Based on
Controlled Adsorption
To support the possibility of decreasing the temperature, we no longer
have to resort to classic levelling agents; a series of brand-new products
has been developed, as explained by Holme10. We would like to charac-
terise the behaviour of such products, which have to be increasingly
APRIL 2009
17/03/2009 15:38 Page 25
Fig. 6.- Dyeing parameterization where limit temperature < 135 ºC
Fig.8.- Interfacial gliding in controlled adsorption
applied with the controlled adsorption strategy.
A very important first step is to pay attention to the following properties:
• These products must not enhance the migration properties and, as a
consequence, they must not shift the dyeing balance at higher
temperatures in favour of the dyeing bath. This would automatically
compromise the colour reproducibility of the dyeings. More often than
not, classical levelling agents act in the opposite direction, just as a
migration requires.
• Basically, the levelling effect of the new products should be enhanced by
a so-called interfacial gliding; that is, the dyestuff molecules or particles
are homogeneously distributed over the surface of the fibre prior to their
adsorption by the fibre. This is facilitated by an exactly limited number of
dyestuff molecules or particles. The amount of particles is determined
by the figures expressing the tolerated controlled dyestuff adsorption.
Fig. 7 shows how the migration mechanism can be described as
adsorption/desorption of particles, which actually implies energy
consumption. Preferably: at high temperature.
In controlled adsorption: Fig. 8 shows how the particles or
molecules glide on the surface of the fibre, even at low temper-
atures, when using such levelling agents. It is possible to enhance
25
Polyester Ian Holme & Carbonell:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009
Technical Briefing: Polyester
Fig. 9.- Green colour dyeing old process
Fig. 10.- Green colour dyeing with Dyestuff Dosage
the gliding and carrying properties of the products in a way that –
at the same time – a larger number of molecules are regularly
distributed prior to the actual adsorption. We have defined the
tolerated adsorption quantities as D value. In general, a D value of
1% means that the adsorption of the applied dyestuff quantity per
contact must not be higher than 1% in order to guarantee an even
colour distribution on the goods. Yet targeting and enhancing the
levelling-agent constitutions allows D to be valued up to 2% for the
adsorption of the applied dyestuff quantity per contact, which
implies an evident reduction of the adsorption or dyeing time.
Therefore it is legitimate to assume that by using specific, targeted
products it is possible to guarantee an accelerated right-first-time
result in the dye bath, provided that the procedure does not have an
impact on liquor exhaustion.
Levelling agents for the dyeing of all other fibres, as mentioned by
Holme10, according to the strategy of controlled adsorption, show
similar behaviour.
26
15:38 Page 26
Minimising Dispersion Instability During Dyeing
As is known from physics, dispersions very rarely remain absolutely
consistent11. In particular cases, though rarely, the agglomerates formed
can be dispersed again as original particles.
Interestingly, in the case of disperse dyestuffs, such agglomerates form
at temperatures ranging from 100 to 115°C, the quantity of formed
agglomerates depending on various factors. The following factors can be
mentioned inter alia:
• Temperature, as said before
• Formation of inertia in circulating pumps, bobbins, dye beams, circuits,
material carriers, etc
• Presence of substances with strong dissolving power on the dyestuff
pigments (especially lipophilic substances)
• Presence of certain additional dyestuffs in the bath
• Applied dyestuff concentration
In reality we have to deal with the interaction of all these
factors. If we try to minimise one of the factors during dyeing –
thus rendering the entire interaction less hazardous – the question
of the dyestuff concentration is the first thing to consider. If the
dyestuff offer is at any step of the dye adsorption only 10% larger
than the actual dyestuff demand, it means – in a linear dye
adsorption - that only 10% of the total dyestuff concentration will
remain constant during the dye adsorption period. Over the entire
adsorption period this amount of dyestuff, plus the amount
already adsorbed by the fibre, is always enough larger as offer in
order to satisfy a regular dyestuff demand, and consequently a
regular levelness.
The technical solution to achieve this will be based on a progressive
dyestuff dosage. The dosage profile could be based on the dosage curve
proposed by Cegarra12. The calculation of a such dosage profile is only
realisable from a theoretical viewpoint and is not easily applicable in
practical production. But if we intend to program this dosage during
parameterised heating in order to achieve a near-linear controlled
adsorption, linear dyestuff dosage will be enough, as the goal of
controlled adsorption via heating parameterisation7 is to ensure a linear
dyestuff adsorption.
As shown in Figs. 9 and 10, dosage has to be defined by various
parameters. The dyestuff dosage has to be a linear liquid dosage in
ml/contact, when running simultaneously with a parameterisation of the
heating for the purpose of controlled linear dyestuff adsorption. The
duration of this dosage has to guarantee that the total amount of
dyestuff has already been dosed when 80% of the total used dyestuff in
the dyeing bath has been adsorbed.
Fig. 9 shows a quick dyestuff dosage at the beginning (pale blue curve)
(usual dyestuff feed). The green zigzag line shows the liquor-flow volume
(this is an X package dyeing) that virtually drops toward zero, starting at
approx. 100°C, reaching again the customary flow volume up to 120°C.
This cycle characterises the formation of agglomerates that settle
out in the package core, preventing an efficient liquor circulation.
Such agglomerates also adhere to circuits, pump, etc. In this case,
achieving a ‘regular’ flow shows that the agglomerates re-disperse.
Regrettably, the original quantity of dyestuff could not get revert
completely to the dispersed condition (ie. the amount that adheres
to the circuits is missing), thus endangering the achievement of the
final colour. In many cases this is one of the causes of adds and
colour corrections. The pale-blue line to the right in Fig. 9 is a
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Polyester Ian Holme & Carbonell:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009 15:38 Page 27

Fig. 11.- Red colour dyeing old process Fig. 12.- Red colour dyeing with Dyestuff Dosage

dosage of reducing agents for reductive cleaning. The purple zigzag

line shows the values of the differential pressure that increases in
the 100-120°C cycle, up to the programmed limit (it is all about a
self-adjusting control).
Fig. 10 shows the same dyeing as in Fig. 9, but with dyestuff
dosage. As the amount of dyestuff in the bath remains between
10% and 20% of the total concentration over the entire adsorption
cycle, the factors mentioned before (temperature, formation of
inertia, presence of substances with strong dissolving power on
the dyestuff pigments) merely cause, if at all, a non-disruptive
precipitation of dyestuffs and therefore no serious alteration of the
final colour.
Figs. 11 and 12 also show examples of conventional dyeing and
dyeing with dyestuff dosage respectively. The meaning of the
various colours is the same as in Figs. 8 and 9. It can be clearly
seen that the flow-volume decrease was counterbalanced by the
self-adjusting control (autoregulation) decelerating the heating in
order to stabilise the critical value % exhaustion/contact. Hence, the Fig. 13.- Dyeing parameterization where limit temperature < 135 ºC and Dyestuff Dosage
dyeing was very acceptable in terms of levelness, despite the very
long and strong ‘deceleration’ of the bath circulation.
Summary
The red dyeing with dyestuff dosage (Fig. 12) readily shows that the
duration of the adsorption cycle is clearly shorter, since the pump Levelness based on migration is restricted by the known limitations of
capacity does not diminish when filtering out the small quantity of market requirements:
present agglomerates.
A practical application of the above described energy-saving measures • Limited evenness when necessarily using well migrating dyeing systems.
is shown in Fig. 13. Here we are dealing with a PES yarn that can be dyed • At limited migration the colour transferability lab/plant and colour
at 120°C in a wide range of colours. Colour reproducibility is slightly better reproducibility from batch to batch is only partially guaranteed by using
than at 135°C, but the dyeing diagrams showed that the pump capacity long dwell times in the last isotherm of the dyeing and applying
clearly decreases, starting at 80°C and especially between 105 and 110°C. migration-supporting additives (further shifting of balanced condition for
At the same time, it became clear that one of the dyestuffs used achieved the benefit of the dyeing bath)
exhaustion when reaching high temperatures, which means that it
remained and circulated in the bath during the entire heating cycle. The above limitations are largely eliminated when dyeing by the
Therefore a dyestuff dosage up to approx. 119.5°C was planned. The controlled adsorption method for guaranteed evenness. The selection
following could be assessed: of the final temperature remains open, as a valuable option to save
energy. Industrial dyeing practice with disperse dyestuffs has always
• No reduction in pump capacity at above mentioned temperatures proven that lower temperatures enhance the preservation of the dyed
• Clearly improved colour reproducibility from batch to batch goods’ physical properties. An appropriate reformulation of the dyeing
• Reduction of dyeing time by observing the programmed pump capacity recipes has also contributed to the possibility of programming the

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Technical Briefing: Polyester

dyeing temperature normally at around 10° to even 25°C lower as the

so called “normal dyeing Temperatures”.
Interestingly, similar results have also been obtained when dyeing
polyamide. In such cases, the controlled adsorption was achieved by
synchronising the heating with the continuous dosage of acid, which very
often allows dyeing with a final temperature of approx. 60°C. Energy
savings were also possible when dyeing cotton by synchronising heating
and continuous salt dosage.
At low liquor ratios, so-called associates of ‘soluble dyestuffs’
appear, which are no longer dissolved but circulate with the bath in
the form of suspensions. Such suspensions are lipophilic and – similar
to dispersions - not completely stable, which is why they sometimes
adhere (machine walls, pumps, circuits, goods, etc.), thus mostly
inhibiting the achievement of the desired colour intensity. This is
usually the cause of adds.
The dyestuff dosage is therefore:
• Most efficient when dyeing according to the principle of controlled
adsorption, which allows linear dyestuff dosage.
• Always valuable when dyeing with disperse dyestuffs.
• When dyeing with other (ionic) dyestuff classes, the shorter the liquor
ratio applied, the more useful it is. Since the introduction of short liquor
ratio dyeing machines, the problems with concentrated dyeing baths are
virtually the cause for continuous complaint.
• Consequently, dyestuff dosage is a very positive contribution to saving
water and energy. ID
International
Textile Month
References & Bibliography:
1. Hoffmann Fredgard, 1987 VTCC 10. Seminar Augsburg/Krefeld
2. Lefeber Michele R., Beck Keith R., Smith C. Brent, McGregor Rolf, Hunter
William, Textile Chemist and Colorist, Vol. 26 (1994), Nr. 5, p. 30-34
3. Beck Keith R., Jasper Warren, Lee Gordon, McGregor Rolf, Smith C. Brent,
International Textile Bulletin, 1998, Nr. 2, p. 88-93.
4. Carbonell Jose, Hasler Rolf, Walliser Roland, Bärtschi H.P., Chimia, Vol. 29
(1975), Nr. 12, p. 542-547
5. J. Carbonell, 1. Part, Revista de la Industria Textil, Nr 449, Junio 2007,
p. 30-38
6. J. Carbonell y P. Carbonell, 2. Part, Revista de la Industria Textil, Nr 451,
p. 24-30
7. J. Carbonell y P. Carbonell, 3. Part, Revista de la Industria Textil, Nr 453,
p. 54-63
8. J. Carbonell y P. Carbonell, 4. Part, Revista de la Industria Textil, Nr 456,
p. 16-25
9. J. Carbonell y P. Carbonell, 5. Part, Revista de la Industria Textil, Nr 457,
p. 46-55
10. Holme, Ian, International Dyer, 2009, Nr 1, p.8-11
11. Hasler Rolf, Contribution a l'Etude de la Stabilité des Systemes Dispersés
de Colorants Plastosolubles, Doktorarbeit / Disertation ((Docteur en
Sciences hysiques)), 1970, Université de Lyon.
12. Cegarra Jose, Valldeperas Jose, Puente Publio, Navarro Juan Antonio,
Revista de Química Textil, Vol. 116 (1994), Nr. 1, p. 77-99

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28 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Polyester Sarex:Santex Santashrink.qxd
Hydrophilising Agents to
Impart Comfort Properties
to Synthetic Fabrics
By Dr Naresh M. Saraf, Dr Geeta N. Sheth and Dr A.G. Sabale,
of Sarex Overseas, India
Introduction
FITNESS IS the buzzword of modern-day youth.
They are always looking for the hottest trends in
clothes and accessories, which provide
aesthetic appeal and, at the same time, the
required comfort properties.
Synthetic textiles have innumerable
advantages, including cost, durability and
flexibility, but they suffer in comparison with
cellulosic material on hydrophilicity.
Polyester and polyamide fabrics have
limitations on sweat absorption and
evaporation. Hence, there is a need to develop
hydrophilising agents for synthetic textiles, to
provide comfort properties.
Figure 1 shows the energy balance of the
body when exposed to the environment. It
produces a lot of heat during a workout and this
could cause the core temperature to rise above
37°C, but the body tries to regulate the
temperature via perspiration and evaporative
cooling. Clothing can act as an unwanted buffer
in the moisture-transfer or moisture-
management process.
Figure 1: Energy Balance of the Human Body
APRIL 2009
17/03/2009 10:23 Page 29
Moisture Management
The term ‘moisture management’ always refers
to the transport of moisture vapours and liquid
away from the body (Figure 2). Today, this is just
one aspect of the concept of ‘wearer comfort’,
as the feel of the fabric against skin may include
various descriptors, such as clammy, prickly, stiff
or dry, etc.
In the case of cotton, the hydrophilicity of the
fibre itself wicks away the moisture, which
passes through the openings in the fibres or
yarns, where distinctly accelerated evaporation
takes place, resulting in comfort for the wearer.
On the other hand, clothing made up of
synthetics such polyester or polyamide, etc, is
unable to wick away the moisture/perspiration
due to their inherent hydrophobic nature, so
the fabric tends to stick to the skin. This
impairs the comfort, which is a function of a
fit garment. To maximise comfort and to feel
cool in synthetic garments, the fabric must
allow liquid to wick on to the surface, spread
away and evaporate quickly.
Here, the wicking simply means the
Figure 2: Mechanism of wicking away
perspiration from skin
capillary movement of moisture within the
fabric structure and moisture management is
nothing but the controlled movement of water
vapour and liquid water (perspiration) from
the surface of the skin to the atmosphere,
through the fabric.
Wicking rate is measured by a ‘strip’ test, in
which a fabric strip is suspended vertically, with
its lower end immersed in a reservoir of water
containing red dye. The elapsed time for water
to reach a certain height is recorded. The data
measured by this method is reproducible.
Hydrophilising properties are, in addition,
measured by a ‘drop test’, and the diameter
of the drop and time is measured as a
function of spreading. In this method, water
droplet is placed on the fabric and the time
taken for the droplet to wick into the fabric
and disappear is measured.
As moisture-management properties are an
important value-added element of clothing
fabrics, it is necessary to impart the
hydrophilicity to synthetics such as polyamide
and polyester. Based on the need and demand
of the consumer, Sarex has developed
29
Polyester Sarex:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009 10:23 Page 30

Technical Briefing: Polyester

hydrophilising agents such as Sarasoil-X,

Coolcot Dry and Geotex-HPA for polyester and
polyamide. Some of these finishing agents not
only impart hydrophilicity but also improve the
soil-release and antistatic properties.

Moisture Management
Finish from Sarex
Finishing with Sarasoil-X, Coolcot Dry and
Geotex-HPA on polyamide and polyester
fabric can be carried out by conventional
methods and it does not require any new
machines or special modifications.
Finishing with above products was carried out
Figure 3. Typical water drop formation on unfinished and finished surfaces on polyamide and polyester fabric. Products
were applied in concentrations of 20–30g/l by
padding at 65 to 70% expression and dried at
150°-180°C for 1-2 min.
Complete wicking of moisture, combined
with an accelerated spreading rate, was
observed by rapid wicking and spreading of
liquid, which would definitely impart wearing
comfort to the synthetic apparels.
The results of absorbency and spreading of
drops on finished polyamide and polyester
fabrics are given in Tables 1 and 2 and Figures 3
and 4. From the results it is clear that Sarasoil X
Figure 4: Absorbency and spreading effect of Sarasoil X, Coolcot Dry and Geotex HPA on polyeste and Coolcot Dry show better hydrophilicity and
spreading of drops in a shorter time on finisher
polyester fabric than on unfinished fabric.
Addition this, Sarasoil X shows better antisoiling
properties and hence can be used for polyester
and its blends. Even fatty and oily soiling can
easily be washed out.
Geotex HPA also can be used for polyester,
polyamide and their blends, as it shows better
spreading of the drop vertically and horizontally
on finished fabric than unfinished fabric.
Thus, this finishes provides textiles with even
more advantages through this rapid wicking and
Figure 5: Absorbency and spreading effect of Sarasoil X, Coolcot Dry and Geotex HPA on polyamide
spreading. This largely prevents the
Table 1: Absorbency and spreading of drops of finished polyester fabric development of an unpleasant body odour.

Spreading of Drop, (0.1ml dye solution)

Finishing agents Absorbency, sec
Conclusion
Vertical,
Time, sec (warp) cm Horizontal, (weft) cm Finishing with Sarasoil X, Coolcot Dry and
Unfinished 52 >2min 8 6.3 Geotex HPA imparts a quality whereby moisture
20g/l Sarasoil X 11-12 46-47 8.0 7.6 is quickly transported from the fabric and is
20g/lCoolcot Dry 10-11 45-46 8.0 7.3 allowed to evaporate, thereby giving a cooling
20g/l Geotex HPA 7-8 44-45 8.8 7.7 effect and comfort to the wearer. In addition,
fabric finished with above products showed
Table 2: Absorbency and spreading of drops of finished Polyamide fabric improved antisoil and antistatic properties.
Spreading of Drop, (0.1ml dye solution) These finishes are durable to repeated home
Absorbency,
Finishing agents Vertical, Horizontal, laundering conditions.
sec Time, sec (warp) cm (weft) cm Thus, fabric finished with Sarasoil X, Coolcot
Unfinished >2min >2min 1 1 Dry and Geotex HPA make synthetic textiles
20g/l Sarasoil X 13-14 34-35 4.5 4.5 universally applicable, especially in sportswear,
20g/l Coolcot Dry 17-18 29-30 4.3 4.2 underwear, uniforms and workwear, as well as in
20g/l Geotex HPA 8-9 22-23 4.7 4.5 medical and technical textiles. ID

30 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Tech Tex:News.qxd 16/03/2009 15:38 Page 31

Technical Textiles

Protection from
Multiple Hazards
Nanotechnology Patent for New Fabric
Radiation Shield Technologies (RST)
has been granted a US patent for
the nanotechnology in its
proprietary Demron material – a
protective material for all types of
chemical, biological, radiological
and nuclear incidents.
Demron consists of an advanced
radiopaque nanopolymeric
compound, fused between layers of
fabric and manufactured into
lightweight nuclear-radiation
blocking garments, including full-
body suits, vests, blankets and
medical X-ray vests and aprons. It is
a lead-free, toxin-free and PVC-free
material that allows heat dissipation
and resists chemical penetration
and cracks.
Made of liquid metal, Demron
nuclear protection fabrics feel cool
and, unlike traditional nuclear suits,
are lightweight, flexible and foldable.
The material has been proven to
block gamma rays, X-rays and other
nuclear emissions by the Lawrence
Livermore National Laboratory, the
Georgia Institute of Technology and
the Columbia University College of
Physicians and Surgeons, said RST.
The patent describes and
protects the use of nanopolymeric
compounds that enable the latest
version of Demron, called
‘Demron-W’, to provide enhanced
chemical, biological, radiation and
flame protection.
Demron-W is the world’s first and
only NFPA 1994-2007 Certified
Fabric for Protective Ensembles for
First Responders to CBRN Terrorism
Incidents, said RST. The company
manufactures Demron and other
nanomaterials at its research and
development facility in Miami, USA.
“As the manufacturer and
marketer of advanced nuclear suits
and personal-protection
technologies that are in high
demand worldwide, Radiation
Shield Technologies developed an
intellectual property strategy that
gives us freedom to meet our
customers’ radiation protection
R&D Grant for
needs while safeguarding our
company’s commercial
Protective Clothing
advantages,” said Dr DeMeo, Manchester, UK, company EC Contract Division Ltd has been awarded
president and chief executive of £250,000 from the Northwest Regional Development Agency (NWDA) for
RST. “We will continue to introduce the delivery of an innovative impact protection clothing system.
new Demron products, apply for The research and development currently being carried out is for a garment
additional patents worldwide and system – currently named Traumatec – which is focused on the needs of
help promote awareness, security-conscious markets, such as the police, emergency services, traffic
education and scientific research to wardens, security companies, protection agencies. The initial feasibility work
advance the field.” that has been carried out in conjunction with Police Officers.
The proposed garment which has patents pending will consist of a flexible,
lightweight, breathable muscle supporting material into which are inserted a
number of strategically located trauma shields that will absorb high levels of

China Fund for impact force so preventing/minimising traumatic injury to the wearer.
The suit would help absorb the fatigue-inducing trauma shock and vibration

High-Tech Fibres
China’s government has announced a special fund to support
development of hi-tech fibre manufacturing, technological upgrades in the
textile industry and development of textile machinery.
The new fund was part of a package of measures aimed at boosting the
country’s textile sector. The Government also increased the tax rebate for
textile and garment exports by 1% to 15%.
Last year China’s textile industry experienced its first sustained period of
falling profits in a decade.
that the body and muscles absorb during repetitive collision and impact. It
would help support muscles during repetitive use and aid the removal of
lactic acid, enhance circulation and add increased oxygen flow.
The project involves research to develop three main components of the
impact protection system, these being the trauma shield, the trauma shield
suit and the ballistic shield suit.
Neeraj Takiar, managing partner at EC Contact Division commented:
“Our vision is simple to be the very best at what we do, to ensure
Traumatec is the standard against which all garment protection
systems will be measured.”

APRIL 2009 31
Tech Tex:News.qxd 16/03/2009 15:38 Page 32

Technical Textiles

Mosquito-Repellent Test
Assured Protection for Military Personnel
A new testing method developed
by a US Agricultural Research
Service (ARS) scientist assures that
uniforms issued to US. military
personnel are properly treated to
repel mosquitoes.
Since 1991, treatment of military
uniforms with the insecticide
permethrin has been available to
help protect troops from
mosquitoes that transmit human
disease pathogens. This method is
a valuable addition to the
protection provided by insect
repellents, but it is a challenge to
be sure that the many kinds of
fabrics and uniforms are
adequately treated.
Now, ARS chemist Ulrich Bernier
has developed a new insect-bite
protection-efficacy assessment that
has been adopted by the United
States Marine Corps (USMC).
The new methodology requires
assessment of multiple uniform
fabric specimens on four human
volunteers and against two species
of mosquitoes before the uniforms
are accepted for production and
manufacturer's ability to provide
uniforms that will protect troops
from mosquito bites.
To prevent mosquito bites,
uniforms must be properly treated
with permethrin. Otherwise, the
repellent action will be lost when
the uniforms are washed. The
USMC found that newly introduced
permanent-press uniforms were not
retaining effective amounts of

Functional Narrow Fabrics distribution to military personnel.

The precise results gained from this
method provide the military with
information on how well the
uniform will protect and prevent
deployed personnel from receiving
insect bites.
This methodology is currently
applicable only to the military and is
used to ascertain each uniform
permethrin. To solve this problem,
the USMC focused on ways to
improve permethrin retention by
changing the treatment process and
the type of chemical binders used.
Bernier's methodology was
necessary because there was no
manufacturing standard by which to
evaluate mosquito protection
afforded by the uniforms.

Nanocomposite
Mimics Dolphin Skin
Jonghwan Suhr, an assistant
professor of mechanical
engineering at the University of
Nevada, Reno, USA, has used
nanotechnology to mimic dolphin
The main focus of the 9th Narrow Fabrics Conference organised by the skin with the aim increasing
Jakob Müller Institute will be “Functional narrow fabrics for technical aerodynamic efficiency.
applications – Smart products designed to enhance competitiveness”. In the groundbreaking research,
The wide range of applications for technical narrow fabrics is matched only Mr Suhr and his colleagues
by their market potential. The development of such products is conditional developed new carbon nanotube
on profound technical and technological know-how and on interdisciplinary composite ‘tissue-like’ materials
cooperation, spanning the arc from yarn production via finishing to fabric that were lightweight, flexible,
production, said the conference organiser. mechanically robustness, and
Experts originating from Hong Kong, Great Britain, Germany, and exhibited outstanding fatigue
Switzerland will present papers on topics such as ecology and corporate resistance, electrical and
governance, innovative material and products as well as innovative thermal conductivities.
finishing technologies. The pliable nanocomposite
The 9th Narrow Fabrics Conference will take place at Jakob Müller AG, Frick, would reduce drag, allowing
Switzerland, on April 25. For programme details and registration forms, aircraft to cut through the air
contact the Jakob Müller Institute. www.mueller-frick.com more efficiently, saving fuel.
Mr Suhr is currently working with
aerospace company Boeing to
assess the potential for creating
an artificial skin for the wings of
unmanned aircraft. The material
could also be used on wind
turbine blades, enhancing
efficiency and reducing noise.
Ultimately, the goal of
Mr Suhr’s research project is to
make the soft tissue-like material
into an electroactive polymer
that could eliminate many
mechanical parts in a
mechanism, mimicking muscles.
The work has secured Mr Suhr a
Faculty Early Career Development
(CAREER) Program award from the
National Science Foundation. The
award comes with $400,000 of
funding over five years for his
research and teaching.

32 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Tech Tex:News.qxd 16/03/2009 15:38 Page 33

SRF Feels Downturn

Laminated Fabric Investment Plan
Technical-textiles and packaging films maker SRF
Ltd, India, has posted a 9% improvement in
profits for the third quarter of 2008-09, but its
textiles business was under pressure.
Net profit, after tax, for the period increased to
Rs 370 million (US$7.6 million). Revenues
increased to Rs 4.19 billion from Rs 4.12 billion
in the corresponding period of 2007-08.
Managing director Ashish Bharat Ram
commented: “In spite of an extremely
challenging economic environment, the
company managed to post marginally higher
numbers compared to the last year. The
technical-textiles business unfortunately was
worst affected by the downturn since it had to
bear the additional impact of higher imports
during this period. While we expect things to
remain challenging, the focus will be on the
revival of our technical textiles business.”
SRF’s board has also approved a new laminated
fabric facility at a cost of RS570 million. The
investment will expand the company’s coated-
fabric operations and reduce the technical-textiles
division’s dependence on tyre-cord fabrics. The
new facility will have a capacity of 48 million sq
m/year and will be located at SRF’s existing
packaging film plant in Kashipur.

DuPont Files Lawsuit

against Kolon
Alleges Trade Secrets Theft
DuPont has filed a civil lawsuit in the USA against Kolon Industries, alleging theft
of trade secrets and confidential information regarding its Kevlar aramid fibre.
Lawsuits have also been filed in Canada and DuPont announced that it is
considering similar actions in other countries.
Thomas L. Sager, DuPont senior vice-president and general counsel, said: “We are
taking action to ensure that our trade secrets remain protected. We are pursuing
all available legal remedies regarding this issue, including damages and injunctive
relief, to prevent further misappropriation of DuPont proprietary information.”
DuPont has recently committed to a $500 million investment in a new Kevlar plant
in South Carolina and an expansion in Richmond, Virginia, USA.
DuPont has invested heavily in aramid technology

Teijin Splits High Performance Fibres Business

Japan’s Teijin is to reorganise its High Performance
Fibers business into two new groups – one for
aramid fibres the other for carbon fibres – effective
from April 1, 2009.
The Aramid Fibers business group will
comprise 13 group businesses and subsidiaries,
including Teijin Techno Products Limited, its core
company, along with Teijin Aramid BV and other
companies. The Carbon Fibers group will
comprise Toho Tenax, its core company, and
seven other companies, including Toho Tenax
Europe GmbH.
Aramid and carbon fibres are forecast for high
growth over the long-term and Teijin has said that it
will continue to position both as core businesses in
its new medium-term business plan for 2009-2011.
In the short-term, however, even Teijin’s high
performance fibres business is feeling the pinch of a
global slowdown.
Reporting on its third quarter, Teijin said that
demand for its Twaron and Technora para-aramid
fibres softened from November of last year, having
remained firm in the preceding six months, as
recessionary conditions worldwide hit the
automotive sector in particular. Demand for
Teijinconex meta-aramid fibres for filters also
slackened due to a slowdown in the steel industry.
The global recession also weakened previously
robust demand for Tenax carbon fibres from
September onwards.

APRIL 2009 33
TTNA black:Santex Santashrink.qxd 16/03/2009
Technical Textiles
Techtextil NA
Goes West
John McCurry previews the first Las Vegas edition
THE FIRST western version of Techtextil
North America launches April 21-23 in Las
Vegas, amid a period of increasing economic
uncertainty in the industry.
The show, at the Sands Expo and Convention
Center, is the sixth edition of the event, which
has heretofore been held every other year in
Atlanta. Show organiser Messe Frankfurt plans to
make the event an annual affair, alternating
between the two cities.
Messe Frankfurt launched the western
version with the stated goals of drawing new
exhibitors and attendees from the western
half of the US. Whether that happens in large
numbers remains to be seen. At the time of
going to press, 111 exhibitors had signed on
for the show, with about 25 percent of them
being first-time exhibitors.
Exhibitors are concerned about the toll the
recession is taking on the technical sector.
Assessing the industry as a whole, Steve Bodnar,
marketing director for Duro Industries, of Fall
River, Massachusetts, says the outlook is poor
going forward for several months.
“Long-time customers are simply not
34
15:39 Page 34
purchasing and have reduced their inventories
significantly,” he said. “Price seems to be king,
versus new technologies. Many producers are
reducing overhead or closing their doors.
Industry consolidation will likely be taking place
through acquisitions and agreements.”
Stephanie Everett, Messe Frankfurt’s director
for the TTNA shows, says the sour economy has
many exhibitors delaying decisions longer than
normal. She expects that by the time the show
opens, about 150 exhibitors will be on hand.
“There was a lot of pushback at the end of
the year, with companies making their decisions
late,” said Ms Everett. “Considering everything
that is going on, we believe it will be quite a
success. These are times for companies to do
more marketing than ever.
Exhibitors say they are generally pleased with
the alternating Las Vegas venue, although some
have expressed concern that Las Vegas is more
unionised than Atlanta and that will drive up
exhibiting costs.
Following is a look at what exhibitors plan to
spotlight in Las Vegas.
Advanced Testing Instruments, of Greer,
SC, will be introducing two new instruments
to test materials for moisture and water-
vapour transmission rate. Duro Industries, a
dyeing, finishing and coating specialist, will be
showcasing its exclusive Multicam production
and distribution agreement. Multicam is a
technologically advanced camouflage system,
used by US Special Forces in theatre, and also
can be used by hunters and outdoorsmen.
Duro’s team will also have samples of 3
Times Dry, NanoSphere and the Defense line
of products
Oerlikon Neumag will focus on its carding
technology, with a series of improvements in
FOR preparation and carding, Fehrer needle
punching and Autefa crosslapping. Technical
novelties will include a new modular card
system, crosslappers with improved profiling
plus a new drive technology, needle looms with
features such as elliptical needling, optimised
needle patterns and automatic needle-board
exchange. The company says that, for
producing hydroentangled nonwovens, the FOR
Injection Card and the
Autefa crosslapper offer speed and uniformity
and are applied worldwide with all leading
hydroentangling systems.
Schaetti America, based in Troutman, NC,
is the US operation of the Swiss firm. The
company plans to present its new line of
coloured powders for medical and scrubbing
wipes. Schaetti says its custom
compounding capability creates unique
powder polymers with colour, fire retardant,
antibacterial, scent and other ingredients for
unique applications.
SNS Nano Fiber Technology, of Uniontown,
Ohio, is a first-time exhibitor. It plans to feature
its self-supporting nanofibre mats, which it says
are strong, elastic and absorbent, as well as its
specialised nanofibre matrices that contain
additives, such as superabsorbents.
Strahm will be touting its HiPerTherm
Drying and Thermobonding machine, along
with the newly developed energy-recovery
system type EnRec. The company will also
feature powder-scattering lines for powder
impregnation of all sorts of textiles and
nonwovens, and is promoting its expertise
in carpet-backing impregnation.
Richard Hough Ltd, of Bolton, UK, is
launching a new range of calender rolls,
offering highest-ever levels of temperature
resistance. The rolls are filled with Nomex,
DuPont’s high-performance meta-aramid
fibre, and are targeted specifically at high-
temperature calendering for technical-
textile applications. ID
INTERNATIONAL DYER
Conference Report:Santex Santashrink.qxd
Conference Report
Indian Textile Exports
‘to Grow at 22%’
Dr Ravindra Adivarekar reports on the recent TAI conference in Mumbai
THE SHADOW of the recent terrorist outrage
in Mumbai hung over a major textile
conference, organised to plot the future
course of the Indian textile industry amid
mounting global economic pressures.
The conference on ‘Global Textile
Opportunities – Vision India’ took place on
January 16 and 17 at the Hotel InterContinental
The Lalit, Mumbai, and was organised by the
Textile Association (India) Mumbai Unit (TAI).
V.C. Gupte, chairman of the Mumbai Unit
and conference convener, said that this event
had been planned one year previously, when
the outlook was very good. But this had
changed suddenly during last three months, as
a result of the economic crises in the US and
Europe, which had affected the global
economy. The Indian economy was no
exception and could not be insulated from the
global meltdown. The textile industry and
retail big stores were significantly affected.
This was followed by the heinous terror attack
on Mumbai, which changed everything. Mr
Gupte said that, after 26/11 incident, the
association had thought of postponing the
APRIL 2009
17/03/2009 15:53 Page 35
Chief guest Dr J. N. Singh, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, addresses the conference
conference, but because of the support and
advice received from sponsors, well-wishers
and speakers – especially overseas speakers –
the organisers had gained the courage to go
ahead on the original schedule.
A.B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner at the
Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, said
India’s textile economy was the second largest
in the world, after China. The global textile
market was US$530 billion, comprising $219
billion of textiles and $311 billion of clothing.
India’s share of the global trade was 3.68%, as
against China’s 27.18 %. Even smaller countries
such as Bangladesh, Pakistan and Thailand had
a big market share.
Mr Joshi said the Government of India had
initiated schemes such as the Technology
Mission on Cotton (TMC), the Technology
Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) and the
Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP), as
well as rationalising the fiscal-duty structure.
The Government was confident about the
implementation of these schemes in the 11th
Five Year Plan; exports would grow at the rate
of 22% and would reach $55 billion by 2012.
He suggested that technical textiles, which
were a niche area with immense opportu-
nities in the global market, should also be
explored very seriously.
Man Mohan, chief operating officer, polyester
sector, Reliance Industries Ltd, pointed out that
global markets had seen unprecedented changes
in a very short span of time. This opened up new
avenues and opportunities for the textile
industry. He enlightened the audience on the
association of Reliance with the success story of
the Indian textile industry, covering topics such
as the long-term global scenario, India’s
particular advantages and future prospects.
Chief guest Dr J.N. Singh, Joint Secretary
(Textiles) at the Ministry of Textiles, said the
Indian textile industry had been affected
because of the devaluation of the US dollar, to a
rate as low as Rs 38 per dollar during
October/November 2008, but had then revived
due to upward revision of dollar, which had now
reached almost Rs 49. However, the current
world economic recession had brought newer
problems to the sector, as the industry had a
major role as one of the leading exporters of
35
Conference Report:Santex Santashrink.qxd 17/03/2009 15:54 Page 36

Conference Report

A. B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India.

textiles and clothing to the USA and Europe.
A comparison with the situation in other
nations, such as China and Turkey, showed that
the recession had affected the Indian industry
less than its competitors. However, this was
challenging time for India to go ahead and show
its strength. Dr Singh said that, in his opinion,
the dangers were more psychological than real.
Various topics related to the theme of the
conference were deliberated in six technical
sessions, by eminent speakers from India and
abroad. In a total of 16 papers, various speakers
addressed the theme of the conference, ‘Global
Textile Opportunities Vision India’, from different
perspectives, including both internal and
external factors.
Government policies, the market
environment the and world recession
attracted the attention of the delegates as
external factors, while product development,
environmental compliance, the GOTS eco-
label, technical textiles, cost reduction and
value addition formed the core of discussion
under internal factors. The almost 400
national and international delegates shared a
consensus that Vision 2020 – India’s ‘master
plan’ to become a developed nation by the
year 2020 – required greater attention to
internal factors and a unified approach by all
stakeholders towards external factors. ID

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36 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Colour:Santex Santashrink.qxd 16/03/2009
Technology Switches
on to Supply
Chain Differences
By Ann Campbell Laidlaw, Global Supply Chain Program Manager at X-Rite Inc
DURING THE past decade, some brand
owners and major manufacturers have
postponed embracing the software/hardware
systems aimed at managing colour in the
supply chains of manufacturers of dyed
goods and printed textiles.
Software packages developed by leading
colour-measurement companies weren't
adopted, broadly because they imposed a
relatively inflexible system of workflow on
everyone along the supply chain. Some
manufacturers felt that the cure of rigidity was
worse than the disease of inefficiency.
But colour-measurement companies are back
from their drawing boards with new product
offerings that now account for the basic
differences between large-scale industries and
small operations, processes that vary depending
on the softgoods produced, and the fact that
each supply chain has a unique workflow.
The result: software packages that tie
together designers, buyers, brand managers,
dyestuff formulators, mills, quality control
personnel and producers, with systems that are
multifaceted and flexible enough to suit
applications worldwide.
Experts say that the current versions of
systems that manage the colour aspects of a
supply chain appear finally to live up to the
promise that the Internet makes for easy
communication of reliable and accurate data
for business use.
The advanced software packages couldn't
have come at a better time. X-Rite Inc, the
world's largest designer and manufacturer of
colour management systems, has found that
companies serving the softgoods industry are
moving from four product cycles per year to as
many as 12 cycles.
While that trend can mean higher profits,
the accelerated rate of product
APRIL 2009
15:41 Page 37
Technical Briefing: Colour Management
introduction puts a significant strain on any
supply chain that doesn’t use digital colour
management effectively.
Interestingly, the most intense competition in
the softgoods industry isn't between companies,
as one would imagine, but rather between
supply chains, according to a study of the Thai
textile industry, conducted by the Thailand
Textile Institute in Bangkok. The institute found
that even the largest and most sophisticated
softgoods companies could be thwarted by
relatively small companies in their supply chains,
which act as bottlenecks similar to those that
are found on a factory production line.
Companies examined by the Thai study
consistently underestimated the time it took to
bring new product to market because they did
not take into account the time to choose
suppliers appropriate to the tasks, the time to
negotiate the specifications of the goods, and
the time to obtain materials.
These are exactly the sort of logistical
concerns that new offerings by X-Rite and X-Rite's Color iQC software
other colour-measurement companies
address effectively. process, including the ability to grade the
For instance, X-Rite introduced its Color iQC performance of vendors and suppliers;
Professional V 6 in November to handle quality • Integrates colour data into other parallel
control, communication and tracking business systems;
colour-approval status in the colour supply • Provides an open architecture that allows lead
chain. Version 6 is capable of receiving data companies to create workflow with multiple
from competitive systems and permits submission, response and approval points;
specifiers to maximize the benefits of control • Assists in capturing, associating, transmitting,
and communication with internal and external receiving, and viewing images and textile
supply chain partners. textures;
The software package: • Organizes, recalls, and manages data easily
and dynamically; and
• Distributes responsibility and approval points • Provides mechanisms for automated data
throughout the supply chain; association and approvals.
• Communicates colour information globally to
all participants; One of the most useful tools for any software
• Monitors the steps in the colour approval package that seeks to improve supply-chain
37
Colour:Santex Santashrink.qxd 16/03/2009
Technical Briefing: Colour Management
X-Rite's iQC Pro v6 eSubmit view
X-Rite's iQC Pro v6 database retrieval
efficiency is the application of a universal file
format for digital colour communication. One
widely used universal digital format today is
Color Exchange Format (CxF), which is expected
to make further inroads in 2009 as it is compre-
hensive, free to users, and flexible enough to be
used by companies in various industries
because it is open-architecture software. This
new file format is based on the latest XML
standard, used by computer browsers to bring
content to computer screens, rather than the
original HTML standard.
Most corporations today designate colour
by using a confusing array of methods,
everything from named colour spaces to
colorimetric measurement values such as
CIE-Lab, XYZ, RGB, density and CMYK to
spectral measurement values.
Using one language saves a huge amount
of time because manufacturers can designate
an exact colour without having to translate
between named colour spaces, CIE-Lab
values and other methods of colour
38
15:41 Page 38
description. It’s not
efficient to communicate
a colour recipe, a
reflectance curve or a
CIE-Lab value to a
company, only to have it
translated under another
method. CxF essentially
does all the translation
between the various
nomenclatures of colour
definition, allowing one
format that can be
understood by everyone.
If a supply chain
expects to double its
product introductions, it
stands to reason that
companies will have
roughly half the time for submissions and
approvals. Newly introduced software
programs automatically prompt individuals to
open files, review projects, approve/reject
submissions and respond within a specified
period to keep the trains running on time.
But the new software packages also
automate a number of administrative functions
that make the whole submission/approval
process more efficient – essentially doing more
with fewer keystrokes. The latest version of
Color iQC automatically attaches images to
outgoing submissions, posts incoming images
to an image library, moves incoming submits to
pending folders, and generates data where it
may not yet exist in a database. The package
can even organize colours into palettes and
colour programs that share common attributes
to gain efficiencies of scale in dealing with
suppliers and vendors.
Finally, software offerings like CxF and Color
iQC link designers at the first stages of product
lifecycle more tightly with their colleagues that
are more concerned with manufacturing and
distribution of the final products. For instance,
designers who use the Color Munki software by
X-Rite to create and share colour palettes can
now describe their choices in the CxF format
that is processed and organized by Color iQC.
To some extent, the software offerings are
catching up with hardware introduced over the
past several years that make colour digital
management possible. In many cases, the
colour measurement industry has reached the
point where the data generated by the
dyehouse is reliable enough for customers to
accept it in lieu of physical samples.
For instance, by reducing the number of
submitted physical samples per colour, X-Rite
estimates that a dyehouse can save on the
average about $1,525 per requested sample.
In the reverse sense, colour-management
companies are providing physical colour
swatches that can be used by home furnishings
and fashion designers to show accurate
reproductions of colour that exactly represent
electronic standards. For instance, PANTONE
SMART Color Swatch Cards represent 1,925
colours that designers can affix to projects in
order to specify, control and communicate
colour choices to manufacturing facilities around
the globe, dramatically increasing speed-to-
market and reducing costs.
On the hardware side, X-Rite developed a
way that its instruments could remain in factory
specification in the field and correlate with
instruments used by various suppliers. The
company has embedded its NetProfiler
technology in its Color i7 instruments so they
can read a set of colour standards and transmit
data via the Internet for verification. Within
minutes, the central laboratory processes the
data and generates a profile that adjusts the
instrument to in-field specifications and creates
documentation that satisfies ISO-9000
procedures. Subsequent measurements in
X-Rite software are then ‘marked’ with a secure
data signature, insuring robust digital results.
Overall, the new software packages that have
been introduced by the leading colour-
measurement companies handle many more
administrative functions that make for seamless
overlap of responsibilities between companies:
approvals, samplings, request-for-quotations
and bids, process tracking, costing, and creation
of master calendars.
Given this sort of assistance, companies all
along the supply chain for dyed goods and
printed textiles will find more than adequate
help as they pick up the pace of product
introductions to the marketplace. ID
INTERNATIONAL DYER
Colour:Santex Santashrink.qxd 16/03/2009
What the Eye
Doesn’t See
Bernard Chyzy Rounds up the Latest in Colour Measurement Technology
The Blue Wool Test Grades test definitions
DUE TO our personal frailties, which, in most
cases, amount to wear and tear, the human
eye simply isn’t calibrated to view anything
with pinpoint accuracy, because what we see
is subjective. For that reason alone,
measuring colour would be an impossible
task without technology.
But, even with computerisation, a failure
to standardise colour communication across
the supply chain may still create problems for
designers, manufacturers and retailers in a
global market where there is less room for
trial and error.
VeriVide’s DigiEye system aims for an
objective assessment that removes the
assessor’s visual subjectivity. According to
the company, it has developed the only
digital method of measuring Blue Wool
samples that is more efficient and accurate
than traditional manual grading.
The Digital Blue Wool Assessment forms part
of the new DigiGrade software application of
APRIL 2009
15:41 Page 39
Reporting Blue Wool values. The digital grades are shown on the left. The test
spectrum is displayed on the right in relation to the colour of the sample.
the DigiEye System, which provides colour data
for regular and irregular 2D and 3D shapes in a
controlled lighting environment developed by
the VeriVide. Unveiled at ITMA Asia in July
2008, the solution is compatible with ISO 105-
B and AATCC methods, has the ability to store
and communicate images and results anywhere
in the world, and can grade multiple samples in
one application.
Along with an objective assessment of Blue
Wool end points and faster laboratory
throughput, it can also be used by unskilled
operators, leading to a reduction in training
time, and features the digital version of the Blue
Wool Scale, which is applied extensively for
benchmarking in manufacturing where colour
can be affected by UV or light exposure, and for
measuring the permanence of colorants used.
The test was originally developed for the
apparel industry but has since also been
adopted by the printing industry as a measure
of the light fastness of ink colorants, with
targeted results of six or more on the Blue Wool
Scale in all areas of the print. Here, two identical
samples are employed; one is used as the
control and placed in the dark, while the other is
exposed to light and assessed, after the pre-
requisite time, for fading against the control.
Using the traditional manual method a
trained individual would then make a visual
assessment and give a subjective rating, with
one indicating extremely poor light fastness and
eight deemed as lightfast and permanent. The
scale determines the suitability for a specified
end use; with apparel usually a minimum of
Grade 4, and a Grade 6 for furnishings or
automotive fabrics.
Mick Butterworth, VeriVide's colour technical
manager, said: “The visual assessment of Blue
Wool Grade 4 is difficult and, as this is used to
determine the end point of the test, it is critical
to precisely determine the end point to ensure
accurate grading of the specimen.
“By the use of the new DigiGrade software
any subjectivity in the assessment of Grade 4 is
removed, allowing consistent and repeatable
results. Being able to objectively measure and
39
Colour:Santex Santashrink.qxd 16/03/2009
Technical Briefing: Colour Management
Barbieri Spectro LFP RT Series 2
record this critical step will increase the
accuracy and consistency of the test for
whichever test method is used.
“Previously the end points were too variable;
we set an objective of putting a digital value to
the end point. With these developments the
DigiGrade system is complete and samples can
now be viewed, as well as measured and
recorded, as part of the test.
“It also produces a digital grade for each of
the test samples, thus providing comparisons
and accurate assessment of samples that, for
example, fall between two grades. There is an
additional advantage to accuracy when there
are differing hues, as this can introduce further
subjectivity, influencing the judgment.”
As a software application for the DigiEye
System specifically designed for textile
colour fastness grading, DigiGrade is said to
have the advantage of storing and recalling
different standards, meaning fewer mistakes
and faster results.
X-Rite’s iQC Pro v6
Color iMatch V6.0 Color formulation software
from X-Rite is described as an intelligent
solution for formulating textile-colorant recipes.
As part of the package, its new iQC Pro v6
features support the management of supply
chains for softlines by making the submission
process easier, faster and more powerful for
specifiers, suppliers, and mills. The software is
offered in various packages, enabling
customers to buy the features that best fit their
particular needs.
The iQC Pro v6, introduced in November to
40
15:41 Page 40
improve colour communication and approval
workflow, offers several benefits, starting in no
particular order with the document-based
architecture, or eJobs, which provides a
method of accumulating, storing, and
retrieving job data in a single folder or
container that is said to simplify task
management and colour communication.
Desktops can be created for specific user
requirements and software levels, while a
remote output feature allows the user to not
only tailor and format any colour data, but
also to share it with colour partners. As well
as an integrated account-management
system, which, X-Rite claims, enhances
organisation and data protection, NetProfiler
is said to be an option that enables all
spectrophotometers to measure consistently
from a single remote location.
Installed with Microsoft Windows Vista, the
iQC Pro v6 has the benefit of the XML colour-
exchange format, CxF, which is supported along
with QTX files, and provides Color Supply-
Chain Management (CSM) workflow for
optimal efficiencies in managing colour
approvals and critical timelines throughout the
global supply chain.
It also operates with a Dynamic Database
Viewer (DDV) – a reporting and retrieval feature
that allows users to organise, view, and
generate reports on large amounts of data.
Image data may be stored with colour
measurements and transmitted with electronic
submissions – particularly valuable, adds the
company, for communicating visual information
regarding the fabric or final product.
Barbieri Spectro LFP RT Series 2
Barbieri upgraded its Spectro LFP at the start
of the year. The Spectro LFP RT Series 2,
launched in January, more or less has the same
characteristics as its predecessor. But the latest
model is now 30% faster and comes with free
Profile-Xpert Gateway software, which, the
company says, is designed to measure any
kind of chart and save data (ie. spectral values,
CIE-Lab, XYZ and density) in a text file. This
data can then be imported into third-party RIP
and profiling software.
As an automatic measuring instrument for
both reflection and transmission mode to
create ICC (International Color Consortium)
profiles, the spectrophotometer can be used
for the linearisation of digital-output devices in
flatbed and large-format printing. For both
reflection and transmission modes, the latest
model uses switchable apertures from 2 to
6mm and is said to measure material of up to
20mm (0.79in) in thickness.
Recording a measurement time of less
than 0.3 seconds and 0.2mm (0.01in) for its
smallest measuring step, the Spectro LFP RT
Series 2 includes three reading modes –
automatic measurements, single
measurements and density measurements –
as well as a measuring sensor that uses
diffraction grating with diode array. The
model is compatible with Microsoft Windows
2000 or later, and Mac OS X 10.4 or later
(Power PC and Intel).
ColorLite MA35-UK probe
head adapter
Last October, ColorLite unveiled a new
probe-head adapter for its spectropho-
tometer sph850. The MA35-UK accessory is
designed to enable the use of d/8° geometry
according to DIN 5033, which defines the
German standards for colour measurement,
and 45°/0° geometry in one device. It also
functions with white, high-power, light-
emitting diodes (LEDs) and has casing made
of Polyoxymethylene (POM).
The company’s main product, the sph850, is
a handheld unit with a 3.5mm 45°/0° geometry
probe head. It can be used with a number of
adapters, such as the MA25 and the MA38,
which are equipped to increase the measuring
spot to 25mm and 38mm respectively.
Other models within the sph850 range
include the sph850-9 for the 9mm measuring
spot and the sph850-IP65 waterproof version.
However, for textile sampling, ColorLite
recommends the sph850-6-UK which uses a
probe head with d/8° geometry. ID
INTERNATIONAL DYER
Colour:Santex Santashrink.qxd 16/03/2009
Speeding the Process
in Colour Matching
By Eric Gianina, of Yxendis
TIMES ARE tough: textile markets are slumping
round the world, competition is getting fiercer,
financial troubles are piling up ...
Textile companies need to find new ways to
be more efficient, to find solutions to boost
their customer demand and to lower their
design, sampling and production costs. Starting
from that strategic analysis, Yxendis, the
innovative textile-software company,
developed not only state-of-the-art software,
such as dobby and jacquard weaving or world-
première real-3D on-time knitting software, but
also a complete range of Process Speeder
Software products to enhance both efficiency
and profitability for its customers.
Advanced Color Conformity management (YX
Profiling) – one of the products in this range –
makes design faster and cheaper than
mainstream procedures. It also provides huge
savings in the sampling and production
departments, especially in dyeing.
These developments are based on the
foundations of Yxendis’s new, breakthrough
Color Conformity Technology to print
calibrated colours or simulations, made with
Yxendis’s range of textile software,
everywhere in the world, without any
distortions, on calibrated printers.
How was this achieved? In the past Yxendis
APRIL 2009
15:41 Page 41
tried to use standard ICC colour profiles, which
are quite convenient for Desktop Publishing but
are not reliable enough for textiles.
With Desktop Publishing, conveying the
general atmosphere is generally quite enough,
but for textiles a specific colour needs to be
reproduced perfectly, to avoid litigation and
huge penalties!
Thus, Yxendis developed a textile-oriented
colour-management software to analyse
precisely the colour gamut of each printer as
well as its specific colour distortions.
The first thing to remember is that the
software range of Yxendis offers perfect
rendering of texture effects, to look like the real
fabric. Furthermore, the colour-conformity
procedure corrects the value of each pixel in a
simulation in accordance with the printer's real
gamut capability and distortion. So the same
simulation of fabrics can be printed everywhere:
the only requirement is to have a calibrated
printer around! This is the first step to improve
responsiveness and customer loyalty, to reduce
sampling costs significantly and dramatically
improve design-team creativity.
But how to obtain savings in production and,
more specifically, in the dyeing department? This
is used worldwide by big textile companies and
it is quite simple.
Yxendis Process Speeder Software
At first, a measurement of the yarn-colour
database needs to be done. Remember that a
textile weaver, knitter or printer usually receives a
customer order together with a colour swatch or
colour reference or yarns, and that these colours
can be flashed with a spectrophotometer. Then
an automatic search of the closest previously
measured yarn colours can be done in the yarns
database. Finally, the closest colours of yarns can
be checked and used for a fast monitor or printer
simulation. These simulations can be used for
last-minute in-house checking and/or customer
viewing for validation before the actual sampling.
Either the yarn exists, and no time is lost or
spent cooking up a risky new recipe, or it does
not, and then true-to-life simulation can be used
for final checking of the customer's colourways
proposal before proceeding with the real
sampling. As a recent improvement, Yxendis has
also made a new upgrade with the capability to
manage different illuminants (D65, TL 84) and
thus opened a whole new area of cost-saving.
This colour-conformity software management
is part of the Process Speeder Software range of
Yxendis, created to achieve fast, fluent and
secure communication of all data related to the
products and collections between all the internal
departments and outside partners (customers,
subcontractors...) of the company. ID
41
Impact:News.qxd 17/03/2009 16:24 Page 42

Textiles & Sustainability

Nonwovens Firm existing duties. Heironimus has global score card, tracking its operating principle and PGI will
Strengthens Programme been with PGI for two years, progress on its website. be no exception as a leading
following a career in various CEO Veronica ‘Ronee’ Hagen global nonwovens company."

Sustainability marketing and development roles said: "We are committed to

Chief
Nonwovens producer PGI has
announced the strengthening of its
corporate-sustainability programme,
with an expanded initiative led by
the company's first chief sustain-
ability officer (CSO).
The company’s chief marketing
officer, John Heironimus, has been
appointed to the newly created
position, combining it with his
Eco Concept ‘Greener than Cotton’
with consumer-products
companies.
PGI’s increased efforts in
sustainability will include public
measurements of the impact
that its products and operations
have on the environment, as
well as its social-responsibility
efforts. The company will begin
publicly reporting such areas as
energy and water usage, and
carbon emissions, by issuing a
achieving leadership in sustain-
ability in our industry. We see this
as not only an essential matter of
corporate responsibility, but also
an important area of collabo-
ration with our key customers
and suppliers. Our commitment
to sustainability is a reflection of
our values and integral part of the
PGI brand. The world's leading
companies have embraced the
sustainability challenge as a core
REACH
‘Clarification’
The European Chemicals Agency
(ECHA) has issued a statement to
clarify the role of industry in the
creation of Substance Information
Exchange Forums (SIEFs), under
the REACH system for controlling
hazardous substances/
ECHA said that, currently, the
main REACH obligation for
companies that pre-registered
substances last year was to form

Denim with Tencel SIEFs. These should be operational

Lenzing used the recent Paris textile-trade fairs to production, including pulp production. In addition, it
promote an ‘eco-denim’ concept, in which it claims cites a study by the University of Utrecht, which
the addition of as little as 25% Tencel to a conven- revealed that the toxic impact of cotton cultivation on
tional cotton denim improves its environmental fresh water and the soil “is considerable and clearly
profile considerably. contributes to global environmental pollution.”
Replacing cotton with Tencel reduces the area under The company says optimised Tencel jeans comprise a
cultivation for cotton by and equivalent percentage, blended fabric, made mainly of cotton, with a smaller
says Lenzing, adding that the consumption of water, share of Tencel. In the best possible case, the cotton
required to grow cotton, can also be reduced by 25%. used is organically grown.
“The advantage lies above all in the efficient use of land “In denim production, as a rule the dyeing processes
and the higher yield per hectare of Tencel,” said and the many, often aggressive washing and finishing
Lenzing. “This is multiple times higher than with processes constitute a major environmental burden,”
conventional cotton. This is an important argument in a says Lenzing. “One solution is the alternative dyeing
world in which the population is growing extremely process approved by GOTS and the Control Union,
quickly and land is becoming a rare commodity. which employs the pre-reduced synthetic indigo
Lenzing claims conventional cotton needs up to 20 system and can be applied easily on Tencel denim.
times more water than Tencel does for its overall “Washing trials with articles of clothing have shown
that existing
processes can be
optimised in respect
of chemical, water
and energy
consumption. Tencel
jeans allow an
improvement in the
typical washing
processes, which
leads to a reduction
in water
consumption of 45%
and to a 35% lower
chemical load.
Lenzing also
proposes sewing
threads made of 100
% Tencel.
as soon as possible, particularly in
those cases where companies
needed to submit their
registrations to ECHA before
December 1, 2010.
“The REACH Regulation leaves
the management of SIEFs to
industry,” said ECHA. “However
ECHA has published a document
reminding companies of the key
SIEF principles and clarifying the
role of the SIEF Formation
Facilitator. Those nominated as
Lead Registrants of SIEFs are
invited to contact ECHA with their
contact details. Other companies
should also decide what role they
wish to take in the SIEFs.
Ethical
Chemicals
DuPont has been named among
the world’s leaders in ethics
reputation, earning first place in its
industry sector and 10th overall
among more than 500 multina-
tional companies, according to the
annual global Covalence Ethical
Ranking Report.
Based in Geneva, Covalence is an
independent research organisation
that tracks and reports on multina-
tional companies’ ‘ethical rankings’
through a reputation index, based
on 45 criteria areas across a broad
range of categories, including

42 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Impact:News.qxd 17/03/2009 16:24
Banner Fabric ‘Greener than Vinyl’
Recyclable Polyethylene
sustainability, ethical business
practices, corporate social respon-
sibility, international cooperation,
labour standards and human rights.
DuPont was named No.1 in the
chemical sector and broke into the
top 10 overall, among 541 global
companies evaluated from the Dow
Jones Titans Sector.
“Ethics are among the core values
which have guided how DuPont
conducts business for 206 years,”
said Donna Grier, DuPont vice-
president – general auditor and
chief ethics and compliance officer.
“We set high ethical standards for
our company and people. We are
pleased to be recognised for our
ethical reputation by Covalence.”
APRIL 2009
Page 43
Banner-fabric manufacturer
Sunbaba has launched its
first ever fully recyclable
fabric and claims to have
received ‘extremely
positive feedback’ from the
industry at The Event Show,
UK, in January.
Marketing director
Jonathan Booth said:
“Polyethylene is our first
fully recyclable product
and offers the perfect
replacement to traditional
banner PVC. It can be
printed using UV inks,
which further reduces the
environmental impact. It
is a solid fabric, making it
ideal for perimeter
branding, building wraps
and large-format
advertising.
“This new initiative can
actually work out cheaper
than PVC and can be used
for long-term projects as
well as short. Next year we
hope to reduce our PVC
output by 30% and will
encourage all clients
seeking low-level perimeter
branding to go green.”
Showroom
Accolade
Invista has achieved Leadership in
Energy and Environmental Design
(LEED) Gold certification for
Commercial Interiors, for its
Antron showroom in Chicago’s
Merchandise Mart. The
showroom, created by Design
Collaboratives Inc, features
minimal internal structure and
utilises many of the original 1983
finishes and furniture. According
to Invista, this minimises waste
and the need for new materials by
creating a multi-use,
transformable space, similar to a
theatre stage.
‘Green Factory’ Gets High Level Visit
Diplomatic Praise
From left: Emily J. Hicks, Kami Witmer, A.J. Johnpillai, Robert Blake Jr, Sofia Blake, Alok
Prasad, Ashroff Omar, Seema Omar and Hasib Omar.
Months after it received the
world's highest rating for eco-
friendly manufacture, the
Brandix ‘green’ clothing
factory, at Seeduwa, Sri
Lanka, continues to attract
high-profile interest.
The latest visitors to the LEED
(Leadership in Energy and
Environmental Design)
Platinum rated Brandix
Casualwear factory were the
diplomatic envoys of the USA
and India, the former
representing a major market
for Sri Lankan apparel, and
the latter a major producer in
the region.
US Ambassador Robert Blake
Jr and his wife Sofia were
accompanied on a visit to the
factory by Emily J. Hicks, Vice
Consul, and Kami Witmer,
Chief of Economic and
Commercial Affairs at the US
Embassy in Colombo. Also
there was Indian High
Commissioner Alok Prasad.
Brandix director A.J. Johnpillai
who, along with Brandix CEO
Ashroff Omar, hosted the
diplomats on a tour of the
130,000 square-foot facility
commented: "Brandix was most
pleased to host the American
and Indian envoys on a visit to
the Green Plant. Such visits by
eminent and influential person-
alities serve the very important
purpose of creating better
awareness overseas of our
commitment to environment-
friendly manufacture and are
beneficial to the apparel
industry as a whole."
The Brandix Green Factory at
Seeduwa is the first apparel-
manufacturing facility in the
world to be rated Platinum
under the LEED Green Building
Rating System of the US
Green Building Council
(USGBC). The factory, which is
the group's main manufac-
turing plant for Marks &
Spencer, achieved a score of
76 (12 points higher than the
64 required for Platinum
status) on the 85-point LEED
certification system.
43
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Textiles & Sustainability

Warning over New Thai Firm in Recycling Initiative

EU Directive
Jacket in a Bottle
Pollution
Liability
Land-decontamination specialists
have warned companies of the
new responsibilities they will incur
under the EU’s new Environmental
Liabilities Directive.
Sirius Strategic Environmental
Management (SSEM) said the
Directive, which comes into
force in the UK during 2009 –
starting with England on March
1 – requires companies not only
to prevent environmental
damage from their operations,
but also to remedy any serious
damage caused.
"We all know that businesses
guilty of polluting the environment
are held responsible, but the new
legislation will take things further,"
said SSEM's Phil Morgan. "The Thai Namsiri Intertex Co Ltd, a emphasise these features – the
company – and its directors Teijin Group subsidiary manufac- jacket is packaged and sold in a
personally – are now liable for the turing polyester textiles in 100% polyester PET bottle. The
prevention and remediation of Thailand, is to launch a Koh Mr Saxman jacket was
serious 'environmental damage' to programme for collecting used launched recently at Central
surface water, groundwater, land polyester items and recycling Department Store, a high-end
and legally protected ecosystems. them into new polyester materials, retailer, as well as local jazz bars.
“This liability applies without through Teijin's ECO CIRCLE The closed-loop recycling
the need to show fault when any closed-loop recycling system. This programme also will include the
of your operations fall into the will be the first such programme collection of used jackets for
categories identified by the launched by Teijin in Asia, other recycling, via the ECO CIRCLE
regulations, and in all cases than in Japan. system. Worn-out Koh Mr Saxman
where negligence has caused The programme includes the jackets collected by Thai Namsiri
damage. You are required to act launch of a recyclable men’s (TNI), will be sent to Teijin Fibers’
proactively to identify and jacket, made of 100% polyester Matsuyama Plant in Japan, where
prevent such damage and, and branded Koh Mr Saxman, in they will be chemically
should the worst happen, collaboration with a famous Thai decomposed and converted into
undertake full remediation." saxophone player who goes by the new polyester raw material. recycle these products at the end
Mr Morgan said: “Many same name. Distribution will be The ECO CIRCLE system is of their useful lives.
businesses have little idea of their handled by Cassardi International claimed to incorporate the world’s TNI is to extend the initiative to
potential future liabilities under Co Ltd, an apparel company in the first chemical-recycling technology the manufacture of recycled
the Directive, nor a good Boonsiri International group and a to decompose used polyester for polyester pants and coats in the
understanding of the environ- leading distributor of menswear conversion into new polyester near future. It also will introduce
mental damage that could be in Thailand. material, offering the same level of Koh Mr Saxman items in other
caused. By implementing a The casual stretchable jacket, purity as that derived from South East Asian markets, as well
thorough review of their sites and weighing only 350 grams and petroleum. Since 2002, more than as India and the Middle East. In
operations, undertaking preven- made with just one piece of fabric, 100 apparel and sportswear addition, TNI is considering
tative actions and defining with no lining or padding, is said manufacturers worldwide have expansion of its collaboration with
emergency-response plans, to invoke the image of a ‘cool, co-operated with Teijin Fibers to Central Department Store to
companies can very easily assess stylish musician’. The easy-care develop and manufacture establish a system where
and minimise the potential fabric is washable, wrinkle- products made from recyclable customers can return worn-out
liability and responsibly manage resistant and iron-free, and – to materials, as well as to collect and products to the store.
their business."

44 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Digital Textile 2:Santex Santashrink.qxd
Pigment
May Be
the Future of Digital
By Dr John Provost,
Technical Editor,
Digital Textile
DETAILED STUDIES of the world’s analogue
textile-printing market have confirmed the
dominance of pigment printing systems1,2.
These studies2 concluded that dye-based
printing technology, such as reactive dyes, will
decline over the coming 10 years, as a result
both of environmental pressure to reduce
water usage and of increasing developments in
textile pigment-printing technology.
The developments in conventional screen-
printing in the coming years will focus on
both the physical form of the pigment-
dispersion formulations and the textile-
polymer binder components of the
analogue textile-ink formulation.
The annual volume of conventional textile-
printing production is in the region of 30
million square metres (estimates range from
27 to 34 million sq m), with a growth rate rate
of 2.5% a year over the next 10 years (though,
at the moment, this growth is optimistic in the
short term).
APRIL 2009
16/03/2009 15:48 Page 45
There have been a number of optimistic
forecasts of the market penetration by digital
printing into the textile-printing market.
Many of these market forecasts depend on
future developments in areas such as print
heads, the printing speed of machines,
business models for ink sales and the
acceptance of digital technology by the
traditional textile-printing markets.
Current digital-printing market penetration into
the conventional textile-printing industry is still
relatively small and amounts to no more than
one percent at most, although, with the new
digital-textile print areas, signage and direct-
to-garment printing (DTG), the market share is
increasing. In both these new areas, textile
pigment-inkjet inks are required, and this has
led to an upsurge in research and the
introduction of textile pigment inks suitable
even for low-viscosity print heads (such as the
Epson Micro Piezo print head), by the major
textile inkjet-ink players.
Digital Printing
The availability of white ink
has extended the possibilities
of digital pigment printing.
Picture: US Screen Print &
Inkjet Technology
Development of Inkjet
Pigment Printing Systems
Behind what appears to be a simple
analogue textile-screenprinting recipe is a
very complex blend of chemicals,
developed to achieve the required colour-
fastness and ‘handle’.
The textile-polymer binder and the
printing additives, such as cross-linking
agents, are the key components in achieving
satisfactory ‘handle’ and wash-fastness
results. The major analogue textile pigment-
colorant suppliers have been developing ever
more sophisticated polymer systems to
improve performance and, at the same time,
simplifying the recipes for the conventional
textile printer. However, with conventional
textile-pigment printing, the viscosity of the
printing recipes is many times greater than
the parameters required for inkjet printing.
There are many test parameters and
processing properties that must be achieved
45
FESPA Ad:Layout 1 11/03/2009 14:00 Page 1
Digital Textile 2:Santex Santashrink.qxd
to develop a textile pigment-based ink and
all must be met (within a tight specification).
The core list of test parameters varies, and
depends on the specific inkjet ink developer
working closely with the print-head
manufacturer, but would include such
groupings as:
• Basic physical properties
• Colorant properties
• Ink component properties (stability to
print-head components)
• Colorimetric and image properties
• Print-head performance parameters
• Physical stability performance
• Wash- and light-fastness properties
• Health & safety and regulatory issues
In textile pigment-inkjet printing, the
chemicals can be incorporated:
• In the textile inkjet ink formulation
• By application of a textile-polymer binder
after inkjet printing, by a separate post-
treatment application stage
• By application of the textile-polymer binder
in a pre-treatment stage
• Or, a combination of the above
The most desirable approach would to be
to use pigment inkjet-ink formulations
containing the same textile binder that would
be used in conventional analogue textile
FIGURE 1. Possible Pigment Inkjet Formulation Approaches to
Different Print Head Technologies
Piezo ‘Drop Piezo ‘Drop on
on Demand’
Technology - Technology -
Low Viscosity Higher Viscosity
(< 5mPAs) (~10-12mPAs)
Pigment Inkjet
Ink - no textile Yes
binder
Pigment Inkjet
Ink - with
No
conventional
textile binder
Pigment Inkjet
Ink - with new
Yes
polymeric type
binders
APRIL 2009
16/03/2009 15:48 Page 47
printing3. However, using conventional textile
binders would significantly increase the
viscosity and the viscosity specification for
the different print heads could not be met,
so that the head would not fire. (Figure1).
Early approaches in textile pigment inkjet
used either a pre- or a post-treatment of
the polymer binder with a textile pigment-
inkjet ink that contained no binder. This
process was obviously time-consuming and
costly and was one of the major reasons
that textile pigment-inkjet inks did not
develop at the same pace as reactive-dye
or disperse-dye inkjet inks.
However, recent developments by the
major suppliers (such as DuPont, BASF, and
others) have led to new, proprietary polymer
approaches (based on novel polymer
dispersants or cross-linkable, multi-functional
polymer agents3,4,5. These new approaches
allow the textile pigment-inkjet ink to be fired
through ‘low-viscosity’ print heads, such as
the popular Epson print heads used in the
Mimaki, Roland and Mutoh inkjet printers
(and other printers based on these printers).
Product ranges from the major suppliers
include (typical ranges – not a complete list):
• Helizarin EVO P100 Series (BASF)
• Artistri P5000 + Series (DuPont)
• Artistri P7000 Series (DuPont)
• FabricFast (Trident)
Continuous
Thermal Ink Jet
Demand’
‘Drop on Technology
Demand’
Technology Small Large
Volume
Volume
Yes Yes No Yes
Yes No No Yes
Yes No No Yes
In addition, the major inkjet-machinery
manufacturers have developed specific
textile pigment-ink formulations, in
partnership with the major ink developers,
which are supplied and sold under their own
brand names (or through the printer
manufacturer’s distribution network).
White Textile Pigment Ink
With the introduction of Direct to Garment
(DTG) printing in 2003, there has been an
increasing requirement for a white ink to
print on dark-coloured garments, or to
create pastel shades in conjunction with
coloured textile pigment-inkjet inks.
It is estimated that in the T-shirt printing
industry, greater than 50% of all production
of prints now incorporates a white ‘mask’
in the finished garment.
Development has followed two
approaches, one following the classic
‘discharge’ printing approach, used in
conventional textile printing, and the
second the development of a white
pigment-inkjet ink to ‘mask’ the dark
ground shades of the garment (such as a
dyed T- shirt).
The discharge approach is complex,
requiring the garment to be dyed with
specific dyes that can be destroyed ‘in
situ’, during the fixation stage. A further
wash-off is normally required to remove
the discharged ground, particularly if the
garment is to reach Oeko-Tex Standard
100. For example, Mimaki Engineering Ltd
has developed such an approach and
markets a liquid discharge agent (ink) for its
garment ink jet printers.
The second and simpler approach is to
use a white pigment-ink dispersion, based
on titanium dioxide (TiO2) to ‘mask’ the
dark ground shade. As expected, the high
density of the TiO2 pigment makes it
difficult to process and to produce inkjet
inks with high enough solids in the ink to
‘mask’ the dark-dyed ground, and at the
same time have inks with the right
particle-size distribution, good stability to
settling and optimum jetting parameters.
The production of stable white-pigment
textile inks and printing processes is complex
and is still evolving.
However, the best approach at the
moment to produce white ‘masked’ print
effects follows a two-stage approach:
• Pre-treat the garment with a pre-treatment
agent – which contains a proprietary
polymer and an inorganic nitrate (as a
47
Digital Textile 2:Santex Santashrink.qxd
Digital Printing
catalyst). Pre-treatment can be by spraying
or by other suitable application method
• Inkjet print the textile pigment ink in one of
two ways (controlled via the colour-
management software):
1) Inkjet print with white ink over substan
tially the whole of the area that is to be
over-printed with coloured pigment inks,
or
2) Inkjet print the white ink in specific parts
of the design and then over-print
coloured inks in the same area, to
obtain ‘masked’ pastel-type effects in
the design
The number of print channels used and the
amount of white ink deposited to produce
the ‘masked’ print results depends on the
colour-management software (RIP) used.
Many print manufacturers are promoting
total packages (inkjet printing machines, white
and coloured pigment inks, and software) for
this type of white ‘effect’ printing.
There has been active patenting in this
area in the last few years6-10.
16/03/2009 15:48 Page 48
DuPont has developed its Artistri P5910
white ink and pre-treatment (P5001) for
such white-print effects, while, for
example, Mimaki Engineering Ltd has
outlined its own process routes to achieve
‘white effects’.
In conclusion, textile inkjet-pigment
printing has been slow to develop a
significant market share of the textile
inkjet-printing market for various reasons,
not least the complexity of developing
stable textile pigment-inkjet inks with
good jetting performance for low-viscosity
print heads.
With the increased market
developments in ‘soft signage’ and DTG
(direct-to-garment) printing, and the
availability of improved textile-pigment
inks (including white textile pigment-ink
systems), the market for these textile-
pigment inks should develop further.
These developments could increase the
market penetration of textile pigments
into the more conventional textile-inkjet
printing market.
References
1. M Raymond, ‘Digital Printing of Textiles’ Editor H
Ujiie, Woodhead Publishing Lts, 2006, Chapter 5
(pages 69 –83)
2. J Provost, M Freche, U Hees, M Kluge, J Weiser,
‘Textile Ink Jet Printing’, edited T Dawson, B
Glover, SDC Monograph 2004, Chapter 6 pages
57-64
3. U Hees, M Freche, M Kluge, J Provost, J Weiser,
I.S. and T., NIP 19 Symposium, pages 242-245
‘Textile Ink Jet Printing with Low Viscosity
Pigment Inks’
4. DuPont, US6262152, ‘Particles dispersed
w/polymer dispersant having liquid soluble and
cross-linkable insoluble segment’
5. Z. Fu, ‘Digital Printing of Textiles’ Editor H Ujiie,
Woodhead Publishing Ltd, 2006, Chapter 13
(pages 218-232)
6. DuPont, WO2007/035508 ‘Digitally Printed
Textiles with White Ink and Coloured Inks’
7. DuPont, WO2007035509 (A1), ‘Fabric
Pre-treatment for Ink Jet Printing’
8. Hewlett-Packard Inc, WO2008/067202, ‘Ink for
Ink Jet Applications’
9. Kornit Digital Ltd US Patent 7134749, ‘Method
for image printing on a dark textile piece’
10. Sakata INX Corp, US2008268156 ‘White Ink
Composition for Ink jet textile printing and ink jet
textile printing process’
Digital Textile 2:Santex Santashrink.qxd
Direct Dye-Sub System for Banners
PrintVillage Inc and its digital dye-sublimation
division US Sublimation have launched the
Velotex Xpress direct dye-sublimation system for
graphics, flag and banner production.
Described as a self-contained, single-step,
affordable textile-printing system, designed
specifically for the trade-show graphics and the
sign and flag industries, the Velotex Xpress is said
to create products that cannot be made with
conventional printers, such as table coverings,
double-sided flags and drapes.
US Sublimation says the Velotex Xpress, which
contains its own curing unit, is easy to operate
and as safe as an aqueous wide-format printer,
“with all the outdoor benefits of a solvent
printer”, claiming high quality, low cost, high
margins, and environmental friendliness that is
‘unprecedented’ in the outdoor/indoor market.
“Dye sublimation has been used in the
textile industry for years, but it is relatively new
in the digital sign and graphics markets,” said
the company. “Unfortunately, the technology
remains the domain of a few pioneers who
have invested significant time and money in
APRIL 2009
16/03/2009 15:48 Page 49
learning the complicated process and
purchasing the equipment.
“In the signs and graphics markets, dye
sublimation remains a premium offering that
most shops outsource to wholesalers that
specialise in this technology. However, the lighter
weight, versatility, better appearance, and
environmental friendliness of polyester fabric are
making it the media of choice for trade show
booths, pop-up displays, flags and banner
production. More and more consumers are
requesting polyester fabric, making it an
indispensable offering for modern sign shops.”
The Velotex Xpress can print double-sided
flags and banners in one step, with a ‘nearly
perfect’ pass through. US Sublimation says the
integrated direct-sublimation system
eliminates the need for a second step and
quickens the process, since inks are cured
while the printer is running rather than after the
job has been finished.
The system includes RIP software with colour-
management tools and a wide selection of pre-
profiled media.
Huntsman Launches
Pigment Range
Huntsman Textile Effects has launched a new
range of aqueous pigment inks, designed for
use in garment-printing machines with piezo
print heads.
The Lyosperse GP inks can also be used on
large-format plotters, and Huntsman says tests
have proved that they will not clog print-head
nozzles. Four colours – Lyosperse Black GP-900,
Lyosperse Cyan GP-500, Lyosperse Magenta
GP-400 and Lyosperse yellow GP-100 – are
available worldwide.
Huntsman says the new inks demonstrate
excellent colour yield and brilliance, as well as
superior rubbing and wash-fastness levels, even
on non-pretreated fabrics. With Huntsman-
recommended preparation and posttreatment,
even deeper colour density and higher fastness
levels are said to be achievable on certain
fabrics. Lyosperse GP can be also used in
combination with white pigment inks for printing
on coloured substrates.
Four further colours will be launched in the
coming months.
49
Digital Textile 2:Santex Santashrink.qxd 16/03/2009 15:49 Page 50

Digital Printing

Growth on Growth
Patti Williams, of market-information firm I.T. Strategies, extends her
optimistic forecast for the digital textile printing sector up to the year 2012.
Introduction
In the last few years, digital printers capable of
printing directly on to textiles have entered the
market. These printers are divided into two
categories: roll-to-roll and flatbed/direct-to-
garment (DTG). Roll-to-roll printers are used for
printing on rolls of fabric used for signage,
furnishings and apparel. Flatbed/DTG printers
print on finished garments such as T-shirts and
sweatshirts and other types of decorated
products such as bags and caps.

Forecast
I.T. Strategies forecasts that vendor revenues for
hardware, media and ink from digital textile
printers, both roll-to-roll and flatbed/DTG will be
$1 billion in 2007 and increase to $2.4 billion by
2012, a compound annual growth rate (CAGR
of 18%).

Applications
Roll-to-Roll Textile Printers
The roll-to-roll sector is segmented into four
broad application categories: signage,
furnishings, apparel & accessories and specialty
fabrics. The roll-to-roll sector is driven by
signage, which makes up about 70% of total
square feet printed. The reason for the success
of signage is that signage is a known
application, sold by print-for-pay shops, and
fabric is simply another type of substrate that
these shops can sell to their customers.
The other applications are hampered by a
lack of use by traditional textile mills, meaning
that for the most part, digital textile printing is
taking place outside traditional manufacturing
and distribution channels. This results in
challenges getting to the customers and selling
them products they may not have purchased in
the past. By 2012, I.T. Strategies expects that
roll-to-roll digital textile printers will print on
more than 880 square feet of textiles with a
retail value (of the printed output) of about $1.2
billion. (Note: some of the digitally printed
textiles in furnishings and apparel applications
are used for proofing or strike offs and as a
result do not have any retail value.)

50 INTERNATIONAL DYER
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Digital Printing

Flatbed/DTG Textile Printers

Although initially developed for printing on
T-shirts, flatbed/DTG ink jet printers today
have expanded beyond garments to
products such as bags, caps, sneakers,
belts and fine art. In 2012 I.T. Strategies
expects that flatbed/DTG ink jet printers will
print more than 260 million
garments/products with a retail value (of
the printed output) of $4.5 billion.

Hardware
Unit Sales
Sales of digital textile printers are forecast to
grow from almost 4,000 in 2007 to about
7,500 in 2012, a CAGR of 14%. Flatbed/DTG
printers will increase from 70% of unit sales
in 2007 to 79% in 2012. For the most part,
flatbed/DTG printers are priced around
$25,000 and below, much less expensive
than roll-to-roll printers, which for the most
part are priced at $50,000 and up.

Value of Sales
The value of hardware sales is forecast to
grow from $214 million in 2007 to $428
million in 2012, a CAGR or 27%. Revenue
from flatbed/DTG printers is expected to
increase from 48% of total revenue in 2007
to 64% by 2012, driven by the increasing
numbers of new buyers entering the market
over the forecast period.

Installed Base
The installed base of digital textile printers
will grow from 12,950 in 2007 to 42,054
in 2012, a CAGR of 27%. Flatbed/DTG
textile printers will increase from 68% of
the total installed base in 2007 to 80% by
2012.

52 INTERNATIONAL DYER
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Ink
Litres
Litres of ink consumed in digital textile
printers are forecast to grow from 1.2
million in 2007 to 4.2 million by 2012, a
CAGR of 16%. The majority of ink used in
these printers is water-based. In the roll-
to-roll sector a variety of inks are used,
including acid dye, disperse dye, reactive
dye and pigment inks. In the Flatbed/DTG
sector, the majority of inks are water-
based pigmented ink. Over the forecast
period, the roll-to-roll sector will consume
the majority of ink litres.

Revenue
Revenue from digital textile inks is
expected to grow from $362 million in
2007 to $848 million by 2101, a CAGR of
14%. Ink revenue from roll-to-roll textile
printers will make up about 83% of total
revenues in 2007 but will drop to 71% by
2012.
Media Revenue
Digital textile printers can print on a wide variety
of media with a corresponding range of prices.
Signage applications rely principally on polyester
fabric; furnishings and apparel may use more
natural fabrics such as silk, wool and cotton.
Flatbed/DTG printers can print on T-shirts,
sweatshirts, bags and caps. I.T. Strategies
estimates that revenue from media will increase
from $473 million in 2007 to more than $1
billion by 2012, a CAGR of 19%. For the most
part, media revenue will not go to hardware
vendors, but rather to manufacturers of

APRIL 2009 53
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Digital Printing

How the Digital

Textile Forecast
Was Compiled
The I.T. Strategies Digital Textile forecast
estimates and forecasts the worldwide and
regional markets for roll-to-roll and
flatbed/DTG ink jet printers. For each sector,
the forecast includes, by region of the world,
estimated unit shipments, installed base,
value of hardware sales, square feet/square
metres or number of garments printed, ink
litres and revenue, and retail value of sales (of
the printed products) from 2007 to 2012.
Primary research for the forecast consisted of
structured and unstructured discussions with
industry participants, including technology
developers, hardware OEMs, integrators,
industry associations and print providers. In
addition to a general discussion of market
trends, vendors were asked for their latest
year-end actual sales, projected sales and
installed based, as well as approximate
geographic splits of sales and installed base
data. These data were used as the basis for
developing the current estimates and
forecasts for hardware and ink.
To our bottom-up model, we apply a top-
down quantitative model, which takes into
consideration historical growth patterns,
market shifts, user acceptance, competing
and complementary technologies and
emerging market segments. From all the
data points gathered, I.T. Strategies
generated an actual 2007 year-end
estimate with five-year projections for
hardware, media and ink. Further forecast
considerations include major vendor
strategies and commitment to the market
and the state of the distribution channels.
Patti Williams

unbleached/undyed fabric and finished garments

such as T-shirts, caps and bags.

Value of Printed Output

The value of the printed output from digital
textile printers (what is paid to the print
shop/mill) is forecast to grow from $1.9 billion
in 2007 to $6.1 billion in 2012, a CAGR of
27%. The retail value of output varies from
$10 to $15+ per T-shirt to more than $25 per
linear yard for some roll-to-roll fabrics. (Note:
some of the digitally printed textiles in
furnishings and apparel applications are used
for proofing or strike offs and as a result do
not have any retail value.)

54 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Digital Textile 2:Santex Santashrink.qxd
Videojet Shuts Printos Subsidiary
Videojet Technologies has shut down its UK-
based textile print-head subsidiary, Printos, in a
move that took the industry by surprise.
Staff were sent home in December as
Videojet said it wished to concentrate on its
core coding and labelling offer for product
identification. It is understood other Videojet
operations considered ‘non-core’ have been
subject to the same tough policy.
Printos manufactured and distributed a
range of drop-on-demand (DOD), digital,
solenoid, valve-jet printing/coating heads and
micro-valves designed to coat, print and dye
textiles, and with potential application in
industrial coating, ceramic and other wide-
format printing industries.
Printos customers are understood to have
received written notification of the closure in
December and were told that Printos products
would no longer be available or offered for sale.
Videojet chief technology office Dr John Folkers
told Digital Textile the current global economic
climate required Videojet to review all of its
16/03/2009 15:49 Page 55
businesses and make decisions
on where to focus limited
resources. Within this context, it
had decided to discontinue the
Printos business unit and there
were at present no plans to
pursue the core Printos
technology – the P16 valve and
H8 print head – any further.
“Videojet will continue to
supply P700 valves, a product
with a long track record of
performance,” said Dr Folkers. “The P16 and H8 introduction of the H8 pre/post-coating and
are no longer generally available, however.” He printing head, containing eight P16s and aimed
added: “We plan to maintain ownership of this mainly at the carpet sector. At last year’s FESPA
technology, as it has also been applied to our Digital Printing Europe 2008 exhibition, the
core coding and marking products.” technology received recognition by inclusion in
The older P700 valves were used in Zimmer’s the exclusive Blue (Innovation) Trail.
ChromoJet rug and carpet printing machines until However, while demonstration rigs gained
their replacement with the company’s own HSV widespread interest, commercialisation was
400 jets. Many of these machines are still in use. repeatedly delayed by technical snags in lining up
Printos launched the P16 valve at ITMA the wide arrays of H8 heads necessary for full-
Birmingham, in 2003, and followed up with the scale printing.
Machinery:News.qxd 18/03/2009 15:09 Page 56

Machinery & Services

Investment Irons out the

The introduction of airflow-dyeing
techniques, with Thies Luft Roto Plus
machines, has delivered increased
production and eliminated creasing
difficulties at Sri Lanka’s Textured
Jersey, resulting in a further order and
installation of two additional 1000kg-
capacity Luft Roto Plus units.
The two new units bring the total
number of machines installed
since the start of 2008 to nine.
They are used for dyeing cotton,
viscose and modal containing
more than 10% elastane.
With this high content of elastane,
Textured Jersey had experienced
problems with creasing in the Eco-
soft dyeing machines used previously
– with fabrics being too compressed
in the nozzle. “The only solution,”
said Shehan Witharana, general
manager of operations, “was to Colombo. The facility includes
introduce new air-flow technology, knitting, dyeing and finishing
blowing air to open the fabric so as capabilities, producing 2,500,000
to overcome the creasing problem metres a month of weft-knit single
being experienced.” jersey, rib and interlock products for
Textured Jersey’s origins date back intimate apparel, casual and
almost 50 years as a British sportswear for some of the world’s
company, which relocated its leading brands.
production to a lower cost base and Textured Jersey UK had been a
closed its UK operation in 2000. long-established user of Thies dyeing
Today the company is jointly owned machines. With the move to Sri
by Pacific Textiles holding (60%) and Lanka the company transferred three
Brandix Lanka (40%). Eco-soft machines from the UK
It is located on a 600,000 sq ft operation and ordered six Eco-soft
facility in the Seethawaka Industrial Plus units for the new dyeing facility,
Park, some 55km north-east of to produce 40 tons a week.

Clariant India Gains Coating Facility

A facility that is claimed to
consolidate Clariant’s application
services and expertise for
customers in the technical-textiles
sector was formally launched
recently at the company’s
Customer Service Centre in
Kolshet, Thane, India.
A continuous coating machine,
made by Werner Mathis AG,
Switzerland, along with a
lamination facility, has been
installed by Clariant Chemicals
(India)Limited to enhance its
services to customers and
increase its ability to meet the
needs of the growing coatings
market in India.
Clariant says the new machine
makes it possible to have control
over various parameters, such as
the add-on, drying time and
finishing time. It will be beneficial • Pigment coating
in both technical-oriented coatings • Black outs
and fashion-oriented coating. • Upholstery
The investment means that new • Shower curtains
developments will be possible at • Sheet coating
Clariant’s Customer Service Centre The coating machine will enable
on all types of substrates with Clariant to imitate customers’
different dimensions and production processes for trials or
applications. Some of the major problem solving and will also help
applications are: in demonstrating new products
• Foam coating on denim and developments.

56 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Machinery:News.qxd 18/03/2009 15:09 Page 57

Wrinkles at Textured Jersey

In a two-way venture, Textured
Jersey co-operated with leading local
apparel manufacturer MAS Holding,
which was seeking a backward-
integration operation through one of
its divisions, Linear Clothing
By 2003 the company was
struggling and the UK company
departed, after which MAS
Holdings inviting Pacific Textiles to
join the joint venture.
During this interim period,
Textured Jersey purchased five
second-hand Eco-soft dyeing units
in a bid to increase its cotton
production. At this time Rohan
Goonetilleke was to join Textured
Jersey as CEO, in a caretaker role
for the next two years.
Although he regards the role as
simply ‘plugging the leaks’ Mr
Goonetilleke was responsible for
turning the company round,
instilling a ‘culture of confidence
and self-responsibility’.
Within this short period Pacific
Textiles, as the major shareholder,
recognised the company’s new
potential, seeing the change of
culture between the local
workforce working with the
Chinese. “We had changed from a
culture of blame to one of
succeeding together,” said Rohan,
continuing. “Plans were therefore
put into place to give a 100%
growth strategy.”
Textured Jersey had been very
comfortable with the Thies units and,
despite Pacific Textiles’ initial
reluctance, preferring a Chinese-
marque dyeing range, an order was
placed for 15 Luft Roto Plus dyeing
units, following a period of trials and
detailed evaluation – seven for Sri
Lanka and eight for China.
The effect, according to Shehan
Witharana, was immediate, with
decreased dyeing times, improved
quality and the elimination of the
creasing problem. “With the
reduced cycle times we require
less water, reduced chemicals and
a significant reduction in power
consumption,” he said.
“We can see a continued trend to
increase the elastane content,
ensuring more value-added business
for stretch fabrics with spandex and
Tencel, but only likely to be up to 13%
in the foreseeable future; although
our R&D engineers are testing with up
to 20% content.
“The Thies Airflow technology, with
liquor rates of 1:4 and 1:5, provides
us with a competitive edge over other
local manufacturers experiencing
larger water consumption, increased
costs and three times the quantity of
chemicals, plus, of course, a larger
effluent content.”
The company had previously
worked with 180-280gsm fabrics
weights but is now able to work
as low as 100gsm. “We have also
just completed trials with 90gsm
and production is scheduled
within the next couple of weeks,”
said Shehan Witharana.
“At these lower weights, travel
through the dyeing unit is even
better,” according to Thies regional
sales manager Thomas Mende.
For cotton, viscose, modal and
elastane mixes of below 10%, the
older Thies Eco-soft units are still
being used successfully by Textured
Jersey. Production, as a direct result
of the introduction of Thies’s Airflow
technology, including the latest two
Luft Roto Plus units, has increased to
2.1 million m/month and was
Rohan Goonetilleke
expected to rise further to 2.5 million
metres by this March.
The company has an extensive
range of recipes, featuring more than
150 for black alone. “We specialise in
chocolate and dark shades, which are
proving difficult for our competitors –
ensuring we win the business,” said
Shehan Witharana.
Textured Jersey, through its
charismatic managing director Rohan
Goonetilleke, is now actively pursuing
two future projects.
The first features rainwater
harvesting. With large roof areas
across its 600,000 sq ft site, and
particularly during the monsoon
season, the company hopes to
utilise up to 20% of its water
consumption from rainwater. The
second project is intended to
reduce the steam boiler’s furnace-
oil consumption by at least 10%.
Next year will also see the start
of more expansion, with the
acquisition of a further 12 acres of
land by Textured Jersey for future
growth. With this expansion
programme, the existing greige
warehouse will be extended into a
dyeroom with the entire knitting
operation and warehousing
moving to the new factory.
The space left will be taken over by
dyeing and finishing operations, to
ensure increased production of 350
ton a week.

Dryer Shipped
to Tunisia
Navis Global, of the USA, has sold and shipped a new dryer to the
Guichard Tunisia knitwear plant – the second machine purchased
by this plant in the last year.
Guichard has had a new TM-100 Open Width Compactor running
for a year. Now it has added the Master-Nit 3 Pass relax dryer to
increase the production and quality in the finishing area.
The Master-Nit dryer is described as an economical and efficient
dryer for tubular and open-width knit fabrics. The 3-pass layout
saves space while providing the ‘best’ in dryer shrinkage control.

APRIL 2009 57
Machinery:News.qxd 18/03/2009 15:09 Page 58
Machinery & Services
High Temperature Data US Distributors Merge
Process-monitoring equipment supplier Dickson says its new stainless-steel-
case data loggers are perfect for temperature monitoring in the hot or wet
conditions of textile plants. The HT 200/220/225, also known as the ‘Takes-
the-Heat—Watertight—Temperature Data Logger’, are temperature resistant
up to 125°C/257°F and offer USB-enabled high speed data downloading.
Infrared Cure for Drying Problem
A custom-built infrared drying system from Heraeus
Noblelight has helped Century Dyeing, of Elland,
UK, to solve a tricky dyeing problem. The innovative
solution involved on-site tests at the Elland factory
and the design of a system to provide sufficient
drying within a very short time window and very
tight space constraints.
Century Dyeing, part of the Allied Textiles Group, works
with the highest-quality synthetic woven fabrics to
produce finished products ranging from parachutes to
tents, and from hot-air balloons to bridal wear. An on-
going investment programme over the last 20 years
has given the company the capacity to dye and finish
over 8 million metres of woven fabrics annually.
A recent order involved dyeing a fabric black and
then drying it in a stenter – a process that involved
no visible problem. But when the specification was
expanded to include lighter shades, it was noticed
that there was colour pick-up on the web-guide
rollers and this was marking the finished product,
leading to unwanted scrap.
58
Zimmer Machinery Corporation, companies in the US and
the US distributor for Konica- Canadian textile-finishing market.
Minolta Nassenger textile- Its current portfolio included
printing systems and other textile Cibitex, Jaume Anglada Vinas,
machinery, has announced a Ehwha Glotech and Daroitex.
merger with The Patterson In welcoming owner and
Group, which also distributes industry veteran C. Bob
finishing machines for the wider Patterson to the Zimmer
US textile industry. Machinery team, the company
Formed in 1992, Patterson said he would be responsible for
Group has represented various all the Patterson lines, as well as
European and American for Matex knife coating systems
and Lacom hotmelt coating and
laminating systems.
Zimmer is located in
Spartanburg, South Carolina,
and Patterson in Charlotte,
North Carolina.
It was soon realised that the problem lay in the fact
that the web entering the Stenter still carried too much
of the dye liquor on and within the fabric. The result
was that it was not fully dried in the stenter and excess
Hohenstein
liquid was picked up by the rollers and then re- Forms US
deposited on the web, to spoil what should have been
a very high-quality finish. Subsidiary
Century had seen an example of a Heraeus infrared Hohenstein Institute has
system being used for pre-heating a fabric prior to established Hohenstein Institute
entry into a stentor at an exhibition in Germany. It America Inc, in response to its
contacted Heraeus and tests were carried out on- rapidly growing US customer base.
site at Elland, using a portable 48kW, fast-response, The Hohenstein America offices
medium-wave module. Medium wave was selected will be located in Elon, North
for this application because of its efficiency in Carolina and will provide in-country
removing water. support to US textile manufac-
Based on the results of the successful tests, a full-scale turers, sourcers and retailers.
88kW system was installed immediately before the “Establishing Hohenstein America
stenter. This consisted of a single module, containing is an investment in our
nine 9.8kW emitters fitted with gold reflectors for commitment to our US customers,”
maximum efficiency. The system was designed to said Hohenstein Institute director
provide sufficient heat in a limited space and a time Dr Stefan Mecheels. “The US
window of 3-5 seconds, to remove the amount of market drives the global textile
moisture necessary to prevent pick-up by the rollers. To industry. Establishing the US office
assist in the control of the heating process, the module is a natural extension of our
is equipped with an optical pyrometer and an indicator worldwide network. Hohenstein
on a control panel displays the web temperature at the America will provide US companies
exit point. with personal service and easy
Century managing director John Eccleston says the access to Hohenstein’s full range of
infrared system has performed exactly to its design product-development, testing and
specification. He said: “We no longer have any problem certification services.”
with roller pick-up, which is good news for the Hohenstein America will be led by
particular customer and also for any future customers Samuel B. Moore, a global textile-
using similar fabrics and dyes. Moreover, we also are industry veteran. Mr Moore will be
pleased with the fact that the fast response infrared responsible for advancing
shuts down virtually instantaneously in the event of partnerships with US companies, to
unexpected line stoppage, ensuring minimum damage ensure that their textile products
to the fabric.” meet performance, quality, and
safety expectations.
INTERNATIONAL DYER
Machinery:News.qxd 18/03/2009 15:09 Page 59

Lab Approved for Lead Tests Second Chinese Stenter

Texanlab Laboratories Pvt Ltd, India, a member of the DyStar group, has been
approved by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), USA, to test
for the presence of lead, according to 16 CFR 1303, in children’s garments and
made-ups. Testing reports for lead content in paints and surface coatings are
currently mandatory for all children’s apparel exported to the USA.
Texanlab was founded in 1973 and is one of the largest independent textile-
testing institutes in Asia. Chief operations office Rahul Bhajekar said: “We can
now be an even stronger partner for US retailers, brands and textile processors.
We help them to keep harmful chemicals out of the textile supply chain and to
make garments safe for people.”
Texanlab is now approved to test for lead.
Brückner Power-Frame stenter with integrated Eco-Heat back-pack heat-recovery unit

Chinese knitwear finisher concepts to remain

Qingdao Huan Cheng Dyeing
Co Ltd, part of the Qingdao Jifa
Group, has ordered a second
Brückner Power-Frame stenter
with integrated Eco-Heat heat
recovery, just a year after
installing a similar machine.
Brückner says depleting energy
resources are encouraging
companies worldwide to invest
in effective energy-saving
competitive and successful. It
adds that its Power-Frame with
Eco-Heat is very efficient, with
very simple maintenance and
the shortest payback time.
Qingdao Jifa is one of the top
500 industrial companies in
China and in 2003 the
company was named a
‘superior eco-friendly
enterprise’.
Machinery:News.qxd 18/03/2009 15:09 Page 60

People in the news

Dr David Lewis Dr John Provost Wim Prinsen Steve Simonson

The AATCC has presented its major awards
for 2009.
Dr David Lewis was the recipient of the
Olney Medal for outstanding achievement in
textile chemistry, having won the AATCC's
Millson Award for Invention in 2005.
Dr Lewis earned his BSc from the University
of Leeds in 1963, and went on to gain a PhD
there in 1966. In 1973 he developed and
patented Bunte Salt Polymers, which were
subsequently commercialised and licensed
through the International Wool Secretariat
(IWS) to Lankro Chemicals and, subsequently,
Henkel. Currently, this polymer is sold by
Cognis as Securlana. Dr Lewis's fundamental
studies of fibre arylation have also led to
patents and pilot-scale production of a novel
agent coded FAA 200, whose main use is in
anti-wrinkle finishing and disperse dyeing
wool and cotton. In his career he has
received many more awards and honours.
Dr John Provost and former Stork Prints R&D
manager Wim Prinsen jointly received the
Henry E. Millson Award for Invention, for the
development of the first commercially
available inkjet printer for textile fabrics.
Dr Provost, now a consultant and technical
editor of International Dyer’s sister
publication, Digital Textile, directed the
team at ICI that developed the reactive-dye
colorant formulations and textile
pretreatments for the first commercially
available textile-inkjet system. During the
1990s, he also was active in a number of
European-funded research projects (EU
Brite Projects) with Stork BV and other
European partners, which further developed
the technology. Later, he was involved in
the development and co-ordination of
inkjet-ink and media solutions with the
major print-head manufacturers, system
integrators and machinery manufacturers,
developing industrial digital-printing
solutions and, in particular, textile-inkjet
print systems.
Wim Prinsen was the manager of research and
development for Stork Prints in the
Netherlands, until the late 1990s. He currently
also works as an independent consultant.
Richard Stephen (Steve) Simonson, R&D
manager for ITG Burlington WorldWide, in
Burlington, North Carolina, received the
Harold C. Chapin Award. The award is
presented each year to a senior member of
the AATCC with at least 20 years’ continuous
membership and who has contributed
outstanding service in enabling the
association to attain the objects for which it
was founded.
The awards were presented during the
AATCC’s 2009 International Conference in
Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, from March
10-12.

Heinz Michel, who has headed
Benninger’s Textile Finishing
Division since June 2008, has
now been appointed group CEO.
He joined the company from
fibre-technology components
manufacturer Heberlein, now
Oerlikon Heberlein Temco
Wattwil AG. Benninger said that,
following the sale of the
Weaving Preparation Division to
Karl Mayer Group, as from
December 1, 2008, Benninger
was now focused on the Textile
Finishing business, where it was
Heinz Michel the global leader, and on two
speciality areas: Tire Cord and
Automation. Former CEO Daniel
Hirschi will remain a member of
the board.
US dyeing and printing
technology company Colorep
has promoted Bonnie Julian to
vice-president, textile division.
The company has also hired
Gavin McLachlan as worldwide
director of sales for its heat-
transfer business, Transprint, of
which Ms Julian will also
continue as vice-president of
design. Mr McLachlan will
oversee both domestic and
international sales of
Transprint’s heat-transfer paper
and of AirDye, the company’s
‘sustainable alternative’ to
traditional dyeing and
decorating processes.
The former head of the Woolmark
Company, Brenda McGahan, has
been appointed chief executive of
Australian Wool Innovation (AWI),
after a gap of two years outside
the wool industry.

60 INTERNATIONAL DYER
SDC:SDC.qxd 16/03/2009 15:42 Page 61

SDC Notes

Keep Your Finger

on the Pulse
ANY SDC conference, especially an interna-
tional one, is always a good opportunity to
get questions answered and to discover the
latest developments and initiatives taking
place in the global coloration industry.
‘Sustainability in Coloration: Vision 2020’
taking place over June 25-26, 2009, in Goa,
India, promises to be no exception. Packed
with key topics, themes and top-level
speakers, the programme has been designed
to ensure that today’s colour professionals
are kept abreast of the issues that matter.
A joint conference with SDC India
(Education Charity), this year’s extensive
programme, spanning two days, has plenty
to meet everyone’s needs. Offering fresh
ideas and practical solutions, topics include:
the role of green chemistry in sustainable
coloration; the efficient management of
water resources; trends in smart and
functional textiles; sustainability from crop
to shop; colour psychology in business
practice; and the relevance of the carbon
footprint for sustainability.
These and other topics will be delivered by
senior speakers from leading organisations,
including BASF, Colour Affects, Control Union,
Grasim, Hong Kong Polytechnic University,
Levi Strauss, Mahlo, Technopak, the University
of Leeds and Zameen/Alok Industries. The
event will also include the Society of Chemical
Industry (SCI) Ivan Levinstein Memorial
Lecture, celebrating the achievements of a
pioneer of the dyestuff industry.
Comments Susie Hargreaves, chief executive
of the Society: “Sustainability in Coloration is a
high-profile coloration conference, which will
bring together delegates from across the world
to network, share knowledge and hear papers
on the key issues facing the industry.”
talent at undergraduate level. The winner will
be chosen from the participating country
finalists – Australia, Bangladesh, China, Hong
Kong, India, Pakistan, South Africa, the
United Kingdom and the United States – with
the presentation of the SDC Colour Design
Award 2009.
Anyone wanting more information about
the conference, and the sponsorship
opportunities associated with it, should
contact Dr P Siva Rama Kumar, SDC India.
Email: pariti_siva@yahoo.com
A Date for the Diary
The Society’s annual Day of Celebration will
take place on Friday, April 24, 2009, to
celebrate the Society’s activities and Prof Ryan
achievements during 2008, to honour people
of distinction in the coloration industry, to At the Hilton Hotel, Bradford
inaugurate the new president, Mike Bartle, 1800 President’s Reception
and to thank members, patrons and kindred 1900 Celebration Dinner with guest speakers
bodies for their continued support. Ron Smart, Managing Director of R.A.
The programme is as follows: Smart (Holdings) Ltd, and Charles Myring
At the City Hall, Bradford, UK Anyone wanting more information about
1030 Welcome the SDC Day of Celebration for SDC members
1100 SDC Annual General Meeting and their guests should contact Barbara
1230 President’s Buffet Lunch Carney at Perkin House.
1400 Presentation Ceremony with guest Email: barbarac@sdc.org.uk
speaker Prof Anthony J. Ryan, OBE
More information:
A long-time friend and supporter of the Secretariat secretariat@sdc.org.uk
Society, Prof Ryan is Pro Vice Chancellor for the Membership members@sdc.org.uk
Faculty of Science at the University of Sheffield, Patron Scheme patron@sdc.org.uk
Technical & Training tech@sdc.org.uk
where he was previously ICI Professor of
SDC www.sdc.org.uk
Physical Chemistry, Head of the Chemistry SDC Enterprises www.sdcenterprises.co.uk
Department and Director of the Polymer ColourClick www.colourclick.org.uk
Centre. His research covers the synthesis, Colour: Design & Creativity www.colour-journal.org
structure, processing and properties of Colour Experience www.colour-experience.org

The two-day event will culminate in the
awards dinner with the announcement of the
winner of the SDC global design competition.
Now in its second year, and with the
emphasis firmly on colour, the competition is
intended to recognise and encourage design
polymers and he was in at the beginning of
polymer nanotechnology. He has co-authored
more than 200 papers and he delivered the
Royal Institution Christmas Lectures on Channel
4 TV in 2002. Prof Ryan was awarded the OBE
for ‘Services to Science’.
Tel: +44 (0) 1274 725138
Fax: +44 (0) 1274 392888
For a complete list of membership benefits and current
subscription rates, telephone +44 (0) 1274 725138
or email members@sdc.org.uk

APRIL 2009 61
ID April 09 Classified:ID January 09 Classified.qxd 18/03/2009 11:30 Page 62

International Orders to: Jon Bloom, International Dyer Classifieds,

Dyer Perkin House, 1 Longlands Street, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD1 2TP, Great Britain.
Tel: +44 (0)1274 378824 • Fax: +44 (0)1274 378811 • E-mail: jbloom@world-textile.net

Spares, Parts, Accessories & Services, Machinery for Sale

Volksbadstraße 85, D-41065
Mönchengladbach, P.O. Box 100807,
D-41008 Mönchengladbach
Telefon: Nr.: ++49 (0) 2161 492680
Telefax: ++49 (0) 2161 48544
Internet: http://www.kruckels.com
e-mail: josef@kruckels.com

J O S E F K RÜ C K E L S T E X T I L M A S C H I N E N G M B H
- 13 warp knitting machines MAYER
with following details:
KS-2, 130" wide, 18 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1979
KS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1979
KS-3, 168" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1981
KS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1978
KS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1979
KS-4, 136" wide, 24 fine gauge, Y.O.M. 1986
HKS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1985
HKS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1985
HKS-2, 168" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1985
HKS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1989
HKS-2, 130" wide, 36 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1989
KS-3, 130" wide, 18 fine, Y.O.M. 1998
HKS-3-M, 130" wide, 24 E gauge, Y.O.M. 2000
For f urt her in fo rma tio n a bo ut ou r co mp a ny a n d a co mp lete o vers igh t of our cu rren t s a les ra nge p lea s e vis it our we bs ite :
F i rs t A d d r e s s fo r S e c o n d H a n d
·12 SULZER PU 153” ·Compactor FERRARO
·THIES Ecosoft 480 kg ·Knotting machine USTER Ustermatic/FISCHER POEGE
·Emerizing machine SPEROTTO ·Thermic Oil Heater, 200.000 to 1 Mio. Kcal
·Laboratory calander ·1 Nonstop-Upwinding Device, like new!
·Liquor coating unit MENZEL Optimax ·15 Winding machines for sewing threads
·3 Centrifuges KRANTZ ·Cylinder dryer, 270 cm wide, 20 cylinders
·350 shafts for SOMET looms, 220 cm ·2 Yarn reeling machines CROON & LUCKE
·Continuous tumbler 220cm ·big quantity of laboratory equipment
·Weft straightener MAHLO ·Hydro-extractor for knitwear
·2 Friction calender ·Washing compartments KÜSTERS Rotojet, up to 320cm ww
·HT-Cone dyeing machines, 1-550 kg ·High frequency dryers KRANTZ
·Foulard KÜSTERS, 320 cm ·Yarn steamer WELKER, made in 1991
·4-bay stenter ARTOS; 1986, MAHLO weft straightener,cloth ·Sample twisting machine VOLKMANN VTS07
width 1600mm ·Sample jigger
·Open-width washing machine WET-TEX, 1994, 160 cm working width ·10 A-frames 300 cm wide
·autom. dye kitchen STORK ·Cord braiding machine
·various stainless steel tanks, 50-4000 l ·Inspection machine UNGLAUB, 200cm, for high-elastic fabric
·Cone sectional warper HACOBA USK 1000 electronic ·Coating/Laminating machine MACHTEX
·Sectional warper HOLLINGSWORTH 1994 ·Raising machine LAMBERTI, 320cm WW
·Tearer for Recycling ·Foulard KÜSTERS, 400cm wide
·Sanfor-Shrinking-Plant MONFORTS + COMFIT 180cm ·Polrotor SISTIG
·Sample Warpers ·Warp knitting machines
w w w .k r u c k e l s . c o m

DEADLINE DATES
MAY 2009
Copy: 23RD MARCH
JUNE 2009

Published: 20TH APRIL

Copy: 20TH APRIL
Published: 18TH MAY
To advertise contact: Jon Bloom
Tel: +44 (0) 1274 378824 E-mail: jbloom@world-textile.net

Adding colour improves your advert

62 INTERNATIONAL DYER
ID April 09 Classified:ID January 09 Classified.qxd 18/03/2009 11:30 Page 63

For a categorised listing of more than 3,500 pieces of used

textile equipment, visit www.textilemachines.info

Investkonsult Sweden AB
Machinery
Spares, for Accessories
Parts, Sale & Services, Machinery for Sale

A SELECTION OF OUR CURRENT AVAILABLE MACHINES Drying and heat-setting machines

Brückner VN 24/6 stenter, ww: 2400 mm, gas heated, 6 chambers, yoc: 2006
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Mortensen beam-dyeing machine with new control system Cylinder dryer, ww: 1900 mm, 10 cylinders in stack formation, steam heated
Cylinder dryer, ww: 1700 mm, 15 cylinders in stack formation, steam heated
Platt jet-dyeing, 25 kgs, HT Monti Model 3000 tensionless dryer, ww: 1200, relaxing dryer for tube material, gas heated, yoc: 1998
Alliance sample jet dyeing, 10 kgs, HT
Washing and treatment machines/lines;
Thies Eco Soft Plus, 250 kgs Fleissner washing range, ww: 2800 mm, yoc: 1998
Vald Henriksen Futura 1200/2400 piece dyeing Benninger washing range, ww: 1900 mm, for scouring and caustic impregnation and washing
Thies Minisoft, 50 kg, HT Benninger Extracta washing range, ww: 1900 mm, after dye wash range
2 x Thies Luf-tRoto II, 180 kg, HT Biancalani Airo 1000, 2 ropes, yoc: 1995
Thies Luft-Roto II, 270 kg, HT Monforts hot-flue, ww: 1600 mm, new control system
Thies Luft-Roto II, 360 kg, HT Franz Müller raising line TRI 224, ww: 2400 mm - 4 complete raising machines in line
Thies Luft-Roto II, 450 kg, HT Sperotto Rimar SM/4 emerizing machine, ww: 1700 mm
Lafer KS-b electrically heated knit relaxing calender, ww: 2400 mm, yoc: 2002
13 Vald Henriksen jiggers - perfect condtion and low price Monti 211/C relaxing knit calender, ww: 1200 mm, yoc: 1998
Vald Henriksen Minijet, rope dyeing, 100 kg Osthoff U80 singeing machine, ww: 1900 mm - good condition and attractive price
Vald Henriksen VH 80 2K, 600 kg Monforts sanforizer, ww: 1800 mm, yoc: 1984 - good condition and attractive price
Vald Henriksen VH 80 4K, 1200 kg BTM (Babcock) pad-roll bleaching line, ww: 2000 mm, yoc: 2002
Thies Rotostream HT, 700 kg Osthoff/Benninger complete singeing, bleaching, caustic soda impregnation and scouring line, ww: 1900 mm
Thies Rotostream HT, 2800 kg Bianco cutting and opening line, ww: 1800 mm, yoc: 1991
Vald Henriksen, AT1400/2200, jigger Corino rope opener with air jet slitting device, ww: 2400 mm, yoc: 2006
Mezzera VGC sample atmospheric jigger Santex de-twister and impregnator, ww: 1200 mm, yoc: 1999
Tapias de-twister, ww: 1900 mm, yoc: 1984
Thies complete cone/yarn-dyeing plant Several inspection tables PHONE: +46 11 106075
If you have any machines you would like to market or sell, please contact us and
we will happily make a valuation and inspection of your machines / plants.

Advertisers Index
Manufacturer of stenter pin plates,
pinned wheels, stenter and industrial brushes.
Suppliers of new and reconditioned
Avocet Dye & Chemical Co. Ltd ..............................15
stenter chain and pin carriers.
Clariant International Ltd..........................................9
Machine knives and blades for the
Finishing and Carpet Industries. DMG World Media....................................................7

PLEASE VISIT OUR NEW WEBSITE Fortex srl ................................................................53

www.jwstead.com Huntsman Textile Effects ................Inside Front Cover
Tel: +44 (0) 1274 597814 Fax: +44 (0) 1274 532177 J Teck 3 Srl ..............................................................51
E-mail:info@jwstead.com
Jaysynth (Europe) Ltd ............................................49
Konica Minolta ......................................................59
Sarex Overseas..........................................Front Cover
Sawgrass Europe ....................................................55
Tanatex Chemicals BV ............................................20
Textilcolor AG..........................................................17
UK Sign Digital........................................................48
Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co. KG(A)................3
International
D y e i n g F i n i s h i n g P r i n t i n g C o a t i n g
Dyer
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APRIL 2009 63
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diary white:Layout 1 16/03/2009 16:08
International
Dyer Submit your event listing to: The Editor, International Dyer, World Textile Publications Ltd., Perkin House,
1 Longlands Street, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD1 2TP UK. Tel: +44 1274 378800 Fax: +44 1274 378811
e-mail: jscrimshaw@world-textile.net Website: www.international-dyer.com
APRIL 2009
03 - 05 Intertextil Balticum 2009, international trade
fair for textile and leather industries.
Riga International Exhibition Centre,
Riga, Latvia.
Tel: +371 7065000
Fax: +371 7065001
Website: www.bt1.lv/bt1/intertextil
E-mail: ilze.avota@bt1.lv
07 - 09 Motexha 2009, Middle East garments,
textiles, leather & fashion accessories trade
exhibition. Dubai International Exhibition
Centre, Dubai, United Arab Emirates.
Tel: +971 4 335 2437
Fax: +971 4 335 2438
Website: www.motexhaonline.com
E-mail: motexha@iirme.com
08 - 10 Textileexpo 2009. International textile fabrics
accessories & yarn exposition.
Qingdao International Expo Center, Qingdao,
Shandong Province, China.
Tel: +86-21-54451166
Fax: +86-21-54451968
E-mail: info@gehuaexpo.com
08 -10 China Interdye 2009, 9th China International
Dye Industry, Pigments and Textile Chemicals
Exhibition, Shanghaimart and INTEX
Shanghai, China.
Contact: Shanghai International Exhibition
Service Corporation
Tel: +86 21 62792828.
Website: www.chinainterdye.com
08 - 11 Vietnam Textile & Garment Industry Expo
2009, HIECC - Ho Chi Minh City International
Exhibition & Convention Center,
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.
Tel: +852 2511 7427
Fax: +852 2511 9692
Website: www.vfabric.com/sgtextile
E-mail: cp@cpexhibition.com
09 - 12 Textile Asia 2009, international textile
machinery show. Karachi Expo Centre,
Karachi, Pakistan.
Tel: +92-21 453-6321
Fax: +92-21 453-6330
Website: www.textileasia.com.pk
E-mail: info@ecgateway.net.pk
14 - 17 Tecnotextil Brasil 2009, exhibition of textile
technology. Expo Center Norte,
Sao Paulo, Brazil.
Contact: Fernanda Tonaka, Malu Losso PR,
Tel. +55 (11) 3865-5354;
E-mail: cientifico@malulosso.com.br
14 - 17 23rd National Congress of Textile
Technicians (CNTT), Expo Center Norte, Sao
Paulo, Brazil. Contact: Fernanda Tonaka,
Malu Losso PR,
Tel. +55 (11) 3865-5354;
E-mail: cientifico@malulosso.com.br
MARCH 2009
Page 17
Calendar of Events
21 - 23 Emitex - Focus on Trends 2009. Trade Show
for Suppliers for Textile & Garment Industries.
Costa Salguero Exhibition Center,
Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Tel: +54-11-4862-8485
E-mail: emitex@fibertel.com.ar
21 - 23 Techtextil North America, Las Vegas, USA.
Contact: Messe Frankfurt Inc,
Tel. +1 770 984 8016
Fax. +1 770 984 8023
Website: www.techtextilNA.com
E-mail: ttnainfo@usa.messefrankfurt.com
21 - 24 IMB 2009 and IMB Forum.
Sewn-products technology exhibition with
associated IT event.
Exhibition Centre Cologne, Messeplatz 1,
50679 Cologne, Germany.
Tel: +49 221 821-0
Fax: +49 221 821-2574
Website: www.imb-forum.com/
E-mail: imb@KoelnMesse.de
MAY 2009
12 - 13 FESPA Digital Textile Conference, RAI,
Amesterdam, The Netherlands. Conference
on inkjet printing of textiles, in association
with Digital Textile e-Broadcast.
Contact: FESPA. Tel. +44 1737 240788;
Fax +44 1737 240770;
Website: www.fespadigital.com
12 - 14 FESPA Digital Printing Europe, digital printing
exhibition, RAI, Amsterdam, The Netherlands.
Contact: FESPA. Tel. +44 1737 240788;
Fax +44 1737 240770;
Website: www.fespadigital.com
JUNE 2009
06 - 10 ITM 2009, international exhibition of textile
machinery. Tüyap Fair, Convention and
Congress Center, Istanbul, Turkey.
Tel: +90 212 592 59 92
Fax: +90 212 599 38 82
Website: www.itm2009.com
E-mail: info@itm2009.com
12 - 15 Shanghaitex 2009, Shanghai New
International Expo Centre, Shanghai,
PR China.
Website: www.adsale.com.hk/en
E-mail: exhibition@adsale.com.hk
16 - 18 Techtextil 2009, exhibition for technical
textiles, Frankfurt, Germany.
Contact: Messe Frankfurt.
Tel. Tel: +49 69 7575-0
Fax: +49 69 7575-64 33
Web: www.techtextil.messefrankfurt.com
/global/en/home.html
E-mail: info@messefrankfurt.com
16 - 18 Avantex 2009, international forum and
symposium for high-tech apparel textiles.
Contact: Messe Frankfurt.
Tel: +49 69 7575-0
Fax: +49 69 7575-64 33
Website: www.techtextil.messefrankfurt.com/
global/en/home.html
E-mail: info@messefrankfurt.com
25 - 26 SDC International Conference,
‘Sustainability in Coloration: Vision 2020’,
Goa, India.
Contact SDC: E-mail: info@sdc.org.uk
30 - July 02 Fenit 2009, international textile industry
trade fair, Parque Anhembi,
São Paulo, Brazil.
Tel: +55 11 3060-5000
Fax: +55 11 3060-5001
E-mail: info@alcantara.com.br
JULY 2009
16 - 19 Textech International Expo 2009,
international exhibition for garments &
textiles. China Friendship Conference Center,
Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Tel: +880 2 8812713
Fax: +880 2 9894573
Website: www.cemsonline.com/textech.html
E-mail: cems@cemsonline.com
16 - 19 Dhaka International Fabric Show 2009,
China Friendship Conference Center,
Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Website: www.cemsonline.com/difs.html
E-mail: cems@cemsonline.com
SEPTEMBER 2009
08 - 10 Caitme 2009. Central Asian International
Textile Machinery Exhibition, Uzexpocentre,
Tashkent, Uzbekistan.
Tel: +998 71 113 01 80
Fax: +998 71 151 21 64
Website: www.textileexpo.uz/en/
E-mail: office@ite-uzbekistan.uz
16-18 48th Dornbirn Man-Made Fibers
Conference, Dornbirn, Austria.
Contact: Austrian Man-Made Fibers Institute,
Tel. +43 (0)5572 36850.
Website: www.dornbirn-mfc.com
NOVEMBER 2009
18-20 INDTEX 2009, new exhibition of textile
technology. Bombay Exhibition Centre, NSE
Complex, Mumbai, India.
Contact: David Tellett
Tel. +44 (0)1727 814 400
Fax. + 44 (0)1727 814 401
e-mail: indtex@mackbrooks.com
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