How to Set Up a Lock Miter Router Bit for Perfect Joints

The Elusive Promise of the Perfect Joint

Most people try to set up and use lock miter bits, get frustrated because the joint doesn't assemble
correctly, then put the bits away in a drawer, never again to see the light of day.

The problem is that the design of this joint depends on the bit being aligned precisely with the
midpoint of the thickness of your stock. Since there are two settings on your router table -the bit
height and the fence setting - it is extremely difficult to find the precise combination of the two to
achieve perfect joint. Obviously, it can be done, but not without spending a lot of time making trial
cuts and wasting wood. Infinity Cutting Tools has overcome these difficulties with their Infinity Tools
Lock Miter Master Jigs.
Delivery from the Tyranny of Endless Setup
I first had opportunity to use the Lock Miter Master jig when I was developing a router class for Infinity
Cutting Tools. The jig was still in prototype phase, but after using it to set the bit height and fence
setting, I got a perfect fit on my first try. I always find it exciting when you can see how a tool makes
your work faster and easier. I know folks who leave their lock miter bits in a dedicated router table all
the time so they don't ever have to deal with the set up again. With the Lock Miter Master Jig, you can
set up a lock miter bit in no time at all, making such single purpose router stations obsolete.

There are two sizes of the Lock Miter Master jig. One is for smaller router bits cutting 3/8" (9.52mm)
to 3/4" (19.05mm) -thick stock, the other is for the larger bits cutting 5/8" (15.87mm) to 1 1/8"
(28.55mm) -thick stock. The jigs are designed to quickly set up equal thickness lock miters, offset lock
miters, and lock miters with different thickness of stock. Below, I'll walk you through the simple
process of using this jig to set up your lock miter bit.

Finding Center
I milled up some stock at roughly 3/4" thickness. I then found center on my boards by using a 4" adjustable
double square and a very sharp pencil. By reversing the square on the other face of the piece and making
another mark, I can quickly tell how close to center my mark is. Use whatever method makes you the most
comfortable in finding center, as long as you very accurate. Remember, this is what determines correct
placement when referencing the jig.
Attaching the Jig
I can now place the jig onto the router bit for set up. Simply attach the Lock Miter Master Jig to the lock
miter router bit cutting edge. I used the Infinity Tools Lock Miter Sr.. router bit, but the Lock Miter Master
Jig will work with most major lock miter router bits available. You'll feel the machined lip of the Lock Miter
Master Jig "lock" into place as you slide it up the cutting edge. The jig is held in place with strong, rare-earth
magnets. The middle indention on the jig should butt up against the underside of the center profile on the
router bit.

Determine Bit Height

After the Lock Miter Master Jig is properly positioned, we're ready to set our bit height. Lay the face of the
workpiece down on the table and butt the material up to the jig. Raise or lower the bit until the long index
mark on the jig aligns with the centerline you marked on the workpiece.
Set Fence Depth
To set the fence position, first make sure the Lock Miter Master Jig is square to the fence.

Place the face of the workpiece against the fence over the router bit. Move the fence in or out until the
index mark on the jig aligns with the centerline of the workpiece.
A Few Caveats Before Cutting
1. Be careful when placing the workpiece on top of the jig as this can cause the jig to slide down on
the router bit.
2. Try and line yourself up with the fence to get the most accurate straight-on view of the jig and
workpiece. The only times I have not made a great fit on my first try was when my visual line had
been off. This has only been off by a very small amount though and by moving the fence in or out
just a hair, the problem is solved.

With the router bit height and fence positioned aligned, it's time to make some joints. Just be sure to
remove the Lock Miter Master Jig first!

Safety First
When cutting lock miter joints, a couple of safety devices and a helpful scrap of MDF or other straight piece
of wood will really make the cut safer and easier. I recommend using some MDF scrap that has a straight
edge on it and use double-sided tape to fasten it to the top of the workpiece flush with the edge that will
be routed.

This scrap of wood supports the workpiece against the fence throughout the cut. This is helpful since the
router bit creates a razor-thin edge on your workpiece that makes it hard to guide the workpiece plus, this
thin edge can easily be damaged as you run the workpiece against the fence.
I like to use JessEm's Clear-Cut Stock Guides and push sticks when using lock miter router bits..

For the horizontal cut, I use a tandem feather board system to maintain good pressure to keep the
workpiece tight against the fence. As before, tape a straightedge to the workpiece to protect the fragile
edge of the routed joint.
Check Your Work
Check the fit of the joint. It should be close to perfect with the two knife edges meeting at the corner. If the
joint is off, place the Lock Miter Master Jig Jig back onto your fence and double-check your fence depth. You
might need to adjust it in or out by a small bit.

Not bad for a first test joint. I think that is pretty darn good.