How To Construct A Small Septic System

3/26/22, 3:02 AM How to Construct a Small Septic System (with Pictures) - wikiHow
How to Construct a Small Septic System

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Last Updated: January 15, 2022
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Most private septic systems are made up of two parts: the holding and digesting tanks, and
the dispersal field.[1] As the first holding tank fills up, the liquid waste will transfer to the
second tank. Once the second tank fills with liquid, it will disperse into the soil below it. The
system shown here is a small system, designed for limited use by two people with no
laundry. The tank is much smaller than required by building codes, and the design is
missing some important items such as internal baffles and a qualified site assessment.
This system uses two 55 US gal (210 L) drums, as opposed to the 1,000–2,000 US gal
(3,800–7,600 L) tanks used for a standard home septic system. The system also has a
dispersal field about one third that of a large home.
Property owners planning a system similar to this one should be aware that this system
would not pass inspections from any public health department in the USA and could
subject the owner to a fine if the system was discovered in use.[2]
On the other hand it is
better to safely dispose of waste than not to. Today's water-saving toilets use less than two
gallons per flush. This system will handle such a load. For people living in places without
septic treatment, it could be a lifesaver.
Part Part 1 of 3:
1 Cutting the Tanks
1 Cut a hole in the top of each drum that’s the same size as the toilet
flange’s outside measurement. Measure the outside diameter of the toilet
flange you’re using. Place the hole against the edge of the drum so you can easily
connect them to pipes. Use a saber saw to cut through the drums.
2 Attach a 4 in (10 cm) toilet flange to each hole. Push the flanges into the
top of each tank so they fit flush. Screw the flanges into the tanks so they
don’t move or shift after you place them.
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3 Cut a 4 in (10 cm) hole in the first drum on the opposite side as the hole
in the top. Place the hole about 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) down from the top of
the drum and make sure it lines up with the hole on top of the tank. Cut the hole
with a saber saw or a hole saw.
4 Cut 2 holes in the side of the drum at 45-degree angles from the center
of the hole on top. Find the center line running through the middle of the
hole on top of the drum. Make 45-degree angles from either side of the centerline
and mark it on the second drum. Use a saber or hole saw to cut through the side
of the barrel and make your holes.
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Part Part 2 of 3:
2 Placing the Tanks Underground
1 Dig a trench that’s 4 × 26 × 3 ft (1.22 × 7.92 × 0.91 m). Use either a shovel
or an excavator to make a hole in the spot where you want your tank. Keep
digging until the hole is 4 feet (1.2 m) wide, 26 feet (7.9 m) long, and 3 feet
(0.91 m) deep.[3]
You can usually rent excavators for digging from a heavy machinery supply
store. Check for equipment rentals online.
2 Place the drum with 1 side hole at the end of the trench. Make sure the
drum is level when you set it down. Check that the top of the drum is at least
4 inches (10 cm) below the surface.
3 Dig a hole 1 ft (30 cm) deeper for the placement of the second drum in
front of the first. Make your hole the same diameter as the drum you’re
placing in it so it has a tight fit and doesn’t move around.
4 Level the hole with gravel until the 90-degree bend fits from the hole in
the side of the top drum to the toilet flange of the lower drum. Dry-fit the
90-degree bend between the 2 drums to see if the holes line up well. Dig the hole
slightly deeper if you need to make the pipe line up better.
Cut 3 1⁄2 and 2 1⁄2 in (8.9 and 6.4 cm) pieces of 4 in (10 cm) ABS pipe and
5
glue them onto the bend. Cut the ABS pipe pieces, or nipples, with a
hacksaw. Fit the pieces into the bend and use PVC glue to secure them in place.
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Test the fit for alignment between the two drums. Fit the end of the 2 1⁄2 in
(6.4 cm) nipple into the side hole on the first drum. Make sure the nipple on the
other end lines up with the hole on top of the second drum.
Glue the end of the 3 1⁄2 in (8.9 cm) nipple into the toilet flange on the
7
second tank. Use PVC glue to secure the bend in place. Don’t worry about
the connection to the first drum yet since you’ll connect it later.
Glue a Y-bend to a 3 1⁄2 in (8.9 cm) nipple and add a 45-degree bend to

8
the angled portion of it. Use your PVC glue to secure a nipple to the end of
the Y-bend. Align the angled pipe on the Y-bend so it meets the incoming waste
line, and glue it into the toilet flange.
Cut and glue 2 1⁄2 in (6.4 cm) nipples to one end of the 45-degree bends
9
at and insert them in the side of the lower drum. Point the ends of the 45-
degree bends so they’re perpendicular to the bottom of the trench.
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Part Part 3 of 3:
3 Connecting the Drain Pipes
1 Pound a stake into the ground so that the top of the stake is level with
the bottoms of the 45-degree bends. It doesn’t matter what kind of stakes
you use. Drive the stakes into the ground using a mallet or a hammer.
2 Tape a 1 in (2.5 cm) wide block to the end of a 4 ft (1.2 m) level. This will
help make sure you create sloped drain pipes so your tanks can empty out.
Place another stake about 3 7⁄8 ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first
3
one. Use your hammer or mallet to drive the stake down until it’s the same
height as the first.
4 Lay the end of the level without the block on the first stake and the
block on the second. Pound the second stake down until the level is
balanced. The second stake is now 1 inch (2.5 cm) lower than the first, or 1⁄4 inch
(0.64 cm) lower per 1 foot (30 cm).
5 Repeat this process until you have stakes the length of the trench.
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from the last one so the stakes slope away from the drums.
6 Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top
of the stakes. The gravel will now slope away from the drums at 1⁄4 inch
(0.64 cm) per 1 foot (30 cm) of horizontal distance.
7 Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe onto each hole on the second
drum. Slide the ends of the drain pipes into the 45-degree bends on the lower
drum. Make sure the holes in the pipes face down so liquids can soak back into
the ground.
Check the pipes with the level to see if the 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) grade is
8
consistent along the length of the pipe. Adjust the slope by adding or
removing gravel under the pipe.
9 Seal the 45-degree and 90-degree bends to the lower and upper drums,
respectively. Use a 2-part epoxy or silicone caulk for the best seal on your
drain pipes. Try using flex pipe for this, so that if the ground shifts it will give a
little.
10 Fill the lower drum with water to prevent it from collapsing under the
weight of the gravel. Bury the trench to the top of the bottom drum with
the remaining gravel.
11 Lay landscape fabric over the gravel. This will prevent the soil from
seeping into the gravel and ensure that you maintain good drainage on your
tanks.
12 Fill the remaining trench area with soil, compacting well to the original
grade. Make sure the ground is level when you finish filling in the area with
your soil. Leave the top pipe from the first tank exposed so you can easily access
the tanks if you need to drain them later.
13 Fill the upper drum with water. Pour the water directly down the exposed
pipes from the top drum. Continue filling the drum until it’s full and place a
cap on top to seal it.
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Community Q&A
Question
What is considered low usage?
Community Answer
Low usage is under 125 gallons per day.
Question
What is the purpose of the 'y' elbow on the first tank? Is that left open or
sealed when completed? If left open, won't it stink?
Community Answer
That's your clean out, it takes a threaded cap or plug.
Question
How much water do you fill it with?
Community Answer
The key word is "fill." Continue to place water into the drum until the level no
longer increases.
Question
If I forgot to add a slip coupler and only have 10 feet of perforated pipe. Will
this still work?
Community Answer
Yes, but you will need to increase the depth of the field to equal the same cubic
feet of capacity.
Question
How do I find out if this is legal in my state?
Community Answer
This is a quick simple system that is probably not acceptable for permanent use
in most states. If discovered, the property owner and/or the installer will be fined.
Question
Can I use 2 or 3, 275 gallon water totes instead or use a water tote and barrel
combo?
Community Answer
Either way is okay. If only one tote, use it as the digestion tank, and the barrel as
the distribution box.
Question
Why do I fill the upper barrel with water?
Community Answer
You fill the upper barrel with water so when sewage matter enters the barrel, it
flows into sufficient water present to start the anaerobic digestion process.
Question
How do I clean out this system?
Community Answer
If there's enough bacteria in it, it will self-clean with low use. If it fills, you can call
aWeseptic serviceto to
use cookies have
make it drained.
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Question
What is the proper grade slope of the drain field for every 10 feet?
Community Answer
The bottom of the field can be level. The piping system away from the drums
should slope at 2 percent, or 2.5 inches per 10 feet.
Question
Will this system freeze in the winter? And could I add antifreeze to the mix?
Community Answer
Antifreeze will kill the good bacteria that is needed for the process to work. The
process is biological and will create some of its own heat. It could always be dug
deeper to get some more insulation above it.
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Tips
The horizontal side of the "Y" connects to the waste source, and should be fitted
with a connector that fits the source supply line.
Instead of a 90° elbow, you should put two of them together, to form a U. That
way the end that's in the first barrel will be pointing towards the bottom of the
tank. Add a short section of straight pipe to this, extending it a few inches deeper
towards the bottom. Solids either float or they sink. They don't stay around the
middle. This way, the solids don't ever make it to the second tank, only the broken
down liquid waste. The same should be done for each of the drainage pipes
coming from the second barrel. Just to make absolutely sure that no solids make
their way into the world leach field.
The waste fills the first tank, with the solids falling to the bottom. When the liquid
reaches the level of the outfall to the second tank, it drains into it. If any solids are
there, they fall to the bottom. When the liquid from the second tank reaches the
two outfalls, it travels to the gravel leaching field for dispersal. Most of the solids
will liquefy over time and be dispersed. After a couple of years, the solids may
come to the top of the tank, and the tank will have to be pumped out.
30% of the waste goes down in the ground and 70% is evaporated by sunlight.
Don't compact the soil since it messes up the evaporation process.
The vertical side of the "Y" will be used to pump out the tank when it’s completely
filled with solids.
The depth of the trench is relative to the depth of the waste source line. If the line
is deeper or higher than the one shown, you will have to dig the trench deeper or
shallower to accommodate that depth. It's not that hard to figure. If you have a
trench that’s too shallow, your septic system could be damaged easier.
After a while, you may notice the ground lower where the trench was. Fill it in with
more soil and compact it.
It is presumed that you know how to work with plastic ABS pipe. You must also
have equipment to dig the trench (or be willing to get a lot of exercise).[4]
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Warnings
This is a very small capacity system. This is not designed to meet the needs of a
large household. It is designed for a small travel trailer and two people. To
maximize the life of this mini system, do not put anything in the septic system
except water, human waste, and toilet paper. Otherwise, you may have to pump
the upper drum once a year or so. The system shown here only needs to be
pumped twice in 5 years.
Don't drive over the area that contains the drums.
Follow local Septic Regulations when constructing a septic system. It is illegal to

install a septic system without a permit. The permit will detail the local
requirements for installation of a septic system.[5]
Don't place your septic system too close to trees, as tree roots will grow into your
line, and cause them to clog and with time, cause harm to your system.[6]
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Things You'll Need
9 cubic yards (6.9 m3) of 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal
80 square feet (7.4 m2) of landscape fabric
2 plastic drums that are 55 US gal (210 L)
10 feet (3.0 m) of 4 in (10 cm) ABS plastic pipe
4 in (10 cm) ABS 90-degree bend
4 in (10 cm) ABS Y-bend
3 ABS 45-degree bends with 4 in (10 cm) diameters
40 feet (12 m) of 4 in (10 cm) perforated drain pipe
2 drain pipe couplers with 4 in (10 cm) diameters
2 toilet flanges with 4 in (10 cm) diameters
Level
10 wood Stakes
PVC glue
Two-part epoxy or silicone sealant
Wood block that’s 1 in (2.5 cm) thick
Duct
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4 in (10 cm) ABS removable cap
References
1. https://www.epa.gov/septic/how-your-septic-system-works
2. https://www.tn.gov/environment/permit-permits/water-permits1/septic-systems-
permits/ssp/permit-water-septic-system-construction-permit.html
3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX-pvPDl9T4
4. http://www.adampease.org/Construction/septic/
5. https://www.cardinia.vic.gov.au/info/20051/building/22/get_a_permit_for_a_septic_
system#section-7-enquiries
6. https://www.doh.wa.gov/portals/1/documents/4450/ww-sm-007.pdf
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3/26/22, 3:02 AM How to Construct a Small Septic System (with Pictures) - wikiHow

How to Construct a Small Septic System

Glue a Y-bend to a 3 1⁄2 in (8.9 cm) nipple and add a 45-degree bend to

What is considered low usage?

Low usage is under 125 gallons per day.

That's your clean out, it takes a threaded cap or plug.

How much water do you fill it with?

How do I find out if this is legal in my state?

Why do I fill the upper barrel with water?

How do I clean out this system?

Don't drive over the area that contains the drums.

Follow local Septic Regulations when constructing a septic system. It is illegal to

Things You'll Need

9 cubic yards (6.9 m3) of 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal

80 square feet (7.4 m2) of landscape fabric

2 plastic drums that are 55 US gal (210 L)

10 feet (3.0 m) of 4 in (10 cm) ABS plastic pipe

4 in (10 cm) ABS 90-degree bend

4 in (10 cm) ABS Y-bend

3 ABS 45-degree bends with 4 in (10 cm) diameters

40 feet (12 m) of 4 in (10 cm) perforated drain pipe

2 drain pipe couplers with 4 in (10 cm) diameters

2 toilet flanges with 4 in (10 cm) diameters

Two-part epoxy or silicone sealant

Wood block that’s 1 in (2.5 cm) thick

4 in (10 cm) ABS removable cap

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