Workshop

 notes  on
Wicking  beds  for  terrace  gardening
Conducted  by  ProtoVillage  team

All that is provided in the notes is what we got from many people who were
generous enough to put it all in the open. We express gratitude by sharing it openly.
This is only a starter for us to build on. Let’s learn and build it together. Let an
individual’s progress be measured by her/his contribution to the collective :)

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One thing about water
Place  two  tubes  on  a  film  of  water...  one  with  a  narrow  hole  and  the  other  with  a  wider  hole.  The  water  climbs  
up   higher   into   the  narrower   one.   Narrower   the  hole,   greater   the  tendency   of  water  to   climb  up.  This  is  called  
capillarity.

One thing about the soil

Soil  is  made  up   of  par=cles  of  various  sizes.  Finer  the  par=cles,  narrower  the  voids  in  between  them,  and  coarser  
the  par=cles,  wider  the  voids  in  between  them.

One thing about the interaction between soil and water

When   we   subject   the   boCom   surface   of   a   mound   of   soil   to   water,   the   water   starts   climbing   up   through   a  
network  of  fine  voids,   against  gravity.  This  is  called  wicking  up,  and   it  happens  due  to   the  capillary  forces.  Simple  
isn’t  it?  If  we  then  stop   the   water  supply,  the  water  gradually   stops  moving  up  and  stabilizes  -­‐  at  this  point,  it  is  
being   held   there  against   gravity.   This  is  due  to   surface   tension.   The   coarser   voids  can   not   hold   water   against  
gravity.

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 What is a wicking bed?

Near side of Far side of

the tank the tank
End cap

Feed pipe, 2.5’ long, 4” dia

Mulch (50mm)
Green
shade
net Fine compost soil mixed with coco pith (400mm)
Drain 2 Drain 2
2’ deep

Water reservoir with coarse gravel or wood chips (150mm)

Perforated pipe, 6’ long and 4” dia with an end cap Drain 1

Wicking
bed
container 6’ long 4’ wide
Front view cross section Side view

These dimensions are only demonstrative. The dimensions of your tank can be as per your convenience, as long as you
ensure at least 2ft depth.

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What is a wicking bed?
Wicking  bed  is  a  simple  system  that  uses  the  principles  of  capillarity  and  surface  tension  to  deliver  the  required  
amount  of  nutrient-­‐rich  water  directly  to  the  root  zone...  Just  the  right  quan=ty,  all  the  =me.

Besides  this,  there  are  many  other  benefits:

• The  wicking  beds  can  be  built  on  top  of  poor  soil.
• There  is  less  watering  maintenance,  as  water  is  stored  under  the  plant  roots.
• Since  the  irriga=on  happens  under  the  surface  of  the  soil,  evapora=on  is  minimized.
• The  vegetables  have  a  higher  chance  of  survival  during  intense  hot  summer  condi=ons.
• Nutrient  is  not  lost  to  the  subsoil  when  the  garden  bed  is  watered.
• The  wicking  garden  beds  are  ideal  for  heavy  feeders  and  quick   climbers,  such   as  corn,  pumpkin,  cucumbers  
and  gourd.  We  can  also  grow  tubers.

In  a  tradi=onal  system,  if  the  irrigator  applies  frequent  but  shallow  irriga=ons  much  of  the  water  will  be   lost  by  
evapora=on.  Applying   deeper  but  less  frequent   irriga=ons  is  more  efficient  in   that  the  water  can  reach  the  root  
zone,  but  it  can  also  easily  lead  to  loss  of   most  of   the  water   and  valuable   nutrients  that  go  past  the  root  zone.  A  
Wicking  bed  makes  irriga=on  nearly  fool-­‐proof.

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Material required (per wicking bed) Equipment

1. 4"  PVC  pipe  -­‐  9V 1. Power  drill

2. 4"  end  cap  -­‐  1 2. Drill  bits

3. Empty  2lt  water  boCle  -­‐  1 3. 1-­‐1.25"  radial  drill  bit

4. GI  wire  -­‐  10V  long 4. Cumng  plier.

5. Shade  cloth  -­‐  4V  X  6.5V

6. 1"  PVC  pipe:  2V
7. Flanged  coupling  for  1"  pipe:  2
8. Gate  valve  for  the  1"  pipe:  1
9. Demonstrated  dimensions  of  the  bed:  6V  X  4V  X  2V  (L  X  W  X  D)...  
DEPTH  SHOULD  CERTAINLY  BE  AT  LEAST  2V!!
10.Material  for  the  bed:  Remolded  plas=c  tanks,  UV  treated  and  with  
HDPE  lining,  Wooden  or  a  metal  box  with  UV  treated  and  HDPE  
lined  tarpaulin.
11.Vermi  compost
12.Cocopith
13.Mulch

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Building the wicking bed
1. Secure   the  two  longer  faces  of   the   tank   with  a  GI   wire.  This  is  important  as  the   weight  of  the  grow  medium  
will  deform  the  plas=c  tank  otherwise.
2. Cut  the  4”  PVC  into  two  pieces,  one  2.5V,  and  the  other  to  fit  the  length  of  the  tank.
3. Perforate  the  longer  pipe  along  the  length  randomly.
4. Connect  both  the  pipes  with  an  elbow  joint  to  form  an  L  shaped  pipe  unit.
5. Place  this  L  pipe  in  the  tank,  such  that  the  long   perforated  part   is  aligned  along   the   boCom  of  the  tank,   and  
the  shorter  one  stands  up  on  one  end.  This  is  called  the  feed  pipe.
6. Close  the  far  end  of  the  perforated  pipe  with  an  end  cap.  Tighten  it  gently,  DO  NOT  USE  GLUE.
7. Drill  a  small  circular  hole  as  close  as  possible  to  the  boCom  on  the  far  side  of  the  tank.  Fix  the  flange  coupling  
into  this  hole  and  fit  a  ball-­‐valve  on  the  outside.  This  is  drain-­‐1.
8. Make   sure   to  hold  the  pipe  down   as  the  layer  of   coarse  materials  such  as  gravel  or  coconut  husk  is  placed  at  
the  boCom.  This  coarse  material  will  form  the  water  reservoir.
9. The  level  of  the  gravel  or  coco-­‐husk  should  reach  about  5-­‐6”  from  the  boCom.  
10.Drill  a  circular   hole  on   the  far   end   of  the  tank,   at   the   same  level  as  the   top   surface  of   the   coarse  material  
(about  5-­‐6”  from  the  boCom  of   the  tank).  This  can  be  25mm  in  diameter,  just  big  enough  to   let  a  1”  pvc  pipe  
slide  through.

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11.Fit  the  flange  coupling  into  this  hole.
12.Insert   a  1”  diameter   PVC  pipe  into   this  hole.   This   pipe  will  be  about  6-­‐8”  long.  Make   sure  that   most  of  this  
pipe  is  inside  the  tank  and  only  about  2”  outside.
13.Cover   the  por=on  of  the  pipe  that’s  inside  the  tank  with  one  layer  of  shade-­‐cloth  (or   green   shade  net).  This  is  
to   prevent   any  of  the  medium  from  flowing  out.  This  is  the  drain-­‐2overflow  pipe  so   the  bed  does  not  become  
water  logged,  from  over  watering  or  excessive  rainfall.
14.Place   a   layer   of   Green   shadenet   on   top   of   the   gravel/coco-­‐husk   material   to   act   as   a   barrier   between   the  
coarse   material   (the   water   reservoir)   and   the   finer   material   (the   compost   soil,   which   will   be   the   grow-­‐
medium).  
15.Place   layers   of  good   garden   soil,  manures,  sprinkling  of  ash  and   a  layer   of  straw   (leguminous).   Repeat   this  
layer  process  un=l  the  soil  is  5cm  from  the  top.  Fill  the  top  5cm  with  mulch  and  then  plant  seedlings.
16.The   first   watering   will   be   over   the   soil,   future   watering   can   be   through   the   feed-­‐pipe.   There   must   be   a  
minimum  of  300mm  soil  to  store  enough  water  in  the  soil  itself.

Wicking  beds   can   be  constructed  on   concrete,  hard   clay  or  very  sandy   soils.  There  is  minimal  digging  in   to  the  
exis=ng  soil  base  and  can  be  moved  to  another  loca=on.  

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Few principles to ensure the wicking system’s effectiveness
1. The   soil  depth   must   be  a  minimum   of   300mm   deep,   shallower   soil  or   pomng  mix   will   be  constantly  water  
logged.   This   creates   an   acidic   and   putrid   condi=on   without   oxygen,   which   does   not   support   most   plant  
growth.
2. The  ini=al  soil  must  have  lots  of  organic  maCer  to  absorb  the  water  and  increases  it  water  holding  capacity.  
3. There  must  be  two  overflow  pipes,  one  at  the   boCom  of  the  container  (Drain-­‐1)   to   flush   the  stagnant  water  
and   accumulated  salts.   The  other   pipe  is  to   ensure  the  water   is  flushed   out   below   the   soil   level  to   prevent  
water-­‐logging  (Drain-­‐2).
4. Water  needs  to  be  flushed  out  periodically,  once  a  month  from  Drain-­‐1.  
5. Drain-­‐2  should  be  leV  open.
6. Keep  the  stand  pipe  closed  (you  cut  an  unused  water  boCle  in  half  and  use  its  boCom  half  as  a  lid)
7. It  is  important  to  mulch  the  surface  to  reduce  evapora=on.
8. Grow   mineral   accumulators  in   your   wicking  bed   to   help   absorb   the   salts  (Note   on   Accumulators  aCached)  
and  use  them  as  mulch  eventually,  to  enrich  the  grow-­‐medium.

The  essen=al  feature  of  the  wicking   bed  system   is   the  water   reservoir   filled   with  coarse  material.  As  explained  
earlier,  with   the   material  being  coarse,  the   water   isn’t   held  =ghtly  by   surface  tension,  and   is  therefore  free  to  
wick  up  through,  and  be  held  within  the  layer  of  fine  soil  (fine  voids)  containing  the  root  zone.
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Growing Calendar
Month North  India South  India

LeCuce,  Spinach,  Gourds,  Melons,  Radish,  Carrot,  Onion,  

JANUARY Brinjal
Tomato,Okra,Brinjal,  Bean

Applegourd,  BiCergourd,  BoCle  gourd,  Cucumber,  French  

FEBRUARY Same  as  January
Beans,  Okra,  Sponge,  Gourd,  Watermelon,  Spinach

MARCH Same  as  February Amaranthus,  Coriander,  Gourds,  Beans,  Melons,  Spinach,  Okra

APRIL Capsicum Onion,  Amaranthus,  Coriander,  Gourds,  Okra,  Tomato,  Chilly

MAY Onion,  Pepper,  Brinjal Okra,  Onion,  Chilly

All  gourds,  Brinjal,  Cucumber,  Cauliflower  (Early),  Okra,  

JUNE Gourds,  Solanaeceae,  Almost  all  vegetables
Onion,Sem,Tomato,Pepper

JULY All  gourds,  Cucumber,  Okra,  Sem,  Tomato Same  as  June

AUGUST Carrot,  Cauliflower,  Radish,  Tomato Carrot,  Cauliflower,  Beans,  Beet

SEPTEMBER Cabbage,  Carrot,  Cauliflower,  Peas,  Radish,  Tomato,  LeCuce Cauliflower,  Cucumber,  Onion,Peas,Spinach

Beet,  Brinjal,  Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  LeCuce,  Peas,  Radish,   Brinjal,  Cabbage,Capsicum,Cucumber,  Beans,Peas,  Spinach,  
OCTOBER
Spinach,  Turnip Turnip,  Watermelon

Beet,  Eggplant,  Cabbage,  Carrot,  Beans,  LeCuce,  Melon,  Okra,  

NOVEMBER Turnip,  Tomato,  Radish,  Pepper,  Peas,  Beet
Turnip

LeCuce,  Pumpkin,  Watermelon,  Muskmelon,  Ash  gourd,  Ridge  

DECEMBER Tomato
gourd,  BiCer  gourd,  BoCle  gourd,  Cucumber,  Chilly,  Cabbage
Source:  hCp://thealterna=ve.in/environment/a-­‐sowing-­‐calendar-­‐for-­‐vegetables-­‐and-­‐fruits-­‐north-­‐and-­‐south-­‐india/
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